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KNOWLEDGE WILL GIVE YOU VISION, CHARACTER WILL GIVE YOU RESPECT


FOREWORD

We extend our heartfelt gratitude and appreciation towards our loyal customers for their unrelenting support, for their trust in us when they present their wardrobe needs and allowing us to translate that into a wearable style whilst keeping with ever-evolving trends – that has always been the backbone of our business. This magazine is part of our efforts in helping our customers keep abreast with menswear fashion as well as providing in-depth content on bespoke tailoring, dressing tips and fabric knowledge. Through this magazine, we endeavour to introduce the latest global designs and styling and communicate new offerings that will extend your personal style. Always at the forefront of the bespoke industry, Wardrobe is the only brand to produce a magazine for this purpose. In addition, Wardrobe customers will be pleased to note that we will continue to add to our stable of fine materials by sourcing new and innovative fabric brands. We have included in our offerings fabrics by Carlo Barbera, which produces for brands like KITON. Coupled with our exemplary in-house tailoring techniques, Wardrobe invariably produces an end result that surpasses in quality. As menswear has taken a turn in style, so has the art of tailoring. We see more unstructured jackets leaning towards being less restrictive in nature by using thinner shoulder pads, softer to no interlining, half lined to unlined jackets, and such. Here at Wardrobe, the options are limitless to suit personal taste, style and comfort without compromising quality. At Wardrobe, we hold steadfast to our promise of consistent tailoring and unparalleled quality, innovative fabric technology and exceptional customer service for any garment that bears the Wardrobe label. As we continue to extol the fine virtues of this gentleman’s trade at Wardrobe, I do hope you enjoy the magazine, which we have carefully curated for you. I invite you to share with me personally any requests that you may wish for us to create in the future. To our customers, we look forward to your continued support; and to newcomers, we welcome you to experience the art of bespoke fashion with unmatched quality as you step through the doors of Wardrobe.

LIM FANG HENG CEO, WARDROBE fangheng@wardrobe.com.my

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CONTENTS 6

14

50

59

DRESSING RULES Do’s and Don’t’s

34

TAILORED TO PERFECTION The finer details of making a bespoke shirt

40

UNCOVERED AND STRIPPED The finest yarns for your suits

Image by Wardrobe

WELCOME NOTE The CEO speaks

STYLE MASTERS Why Wardrobe?

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BE BOLD Bespoke suits for any occasion

103

DRESSING THE MAN Corporate leaders share

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FOREIGN AFFAIRS The accoutrements to your bespoke style


CONTRIBUTORS EDITORIAL Sharmini M.Rethinasamy SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER Chai Tze Yuen SUB-EDITOR Muna Noor EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

CONTRIBUTORS

PATRICK LOH

WRITER Torn between dancing and fashion writing, Patrick was 18 when he came to the decision to make a career in publishing. He first started out as a stylist and journalist in the world of fashion and beauty and, six years later, aspires to do more internationally. When he is not typing loudly on his keyboard or browsing clothes from a rack, you can find him in a studio blasting his boombox to the sounds of Beyoncé and Ludacris.

NUR AMYLIA HILDA

WRITER Amylia is a writer with over four years’ experience in the publishing industry, writing across titles such as ELLE Malaysia, Women’s Health Malaysia and Esquire Malaysia. She enjoys covering a range of topics from entertainment to motor sports. She also enjoys pub quizzes, including movie quotes in daily conversations and photography.

SARAH SAW

STYLIST A freelance stylist, Sarah has been styling for clients, commercials and international magazine titles since 2007. Prior to that Sarah was Beauty Editor for Marie Claire Malaysia. She has also been attached to luxury title Prestige magazine, and is adept at translating current fashion styles into creative visuals, having honed her talent in styling fashion spreads and magazine covers.

Bryan Ong, Chuan Looi, Fong Wei Loon, Jennifer Choo, Mavis Ang, Nur Amylia Hilda, Tania Jayatilaka, Patrick Loh, Ray Lim, Raymond Pung, Radzi Musa, Remi Dutta, Sarah Chong, Sarah Saw, Soon Lau

DESIGN Nor Hamimah Abdullah Shirley Chia ART DIRECTORS Penny Chee JUNIOR ART DIRECTOR Aini Suraya Nasarudin Rozalya Rayceal Ramlin Elynn Yeo GRAPHIC DESIGNERS

PRODUCED BY

Mongoose Pacific (M) Sdn Bhd (403251M) Level 28 Integra Tower, The Intermark, No. 348 Jalan Tun Razak, 50400 Kuala Lumpur www.mongooseasia.com

PRINTED BY

JENNIFER CHOO

FEATURE WRITER/STYLIST Jennifer never wanted to be a writer; she wanted to be a reader. Her first ambition as a child was to be a librarian, but fate conspired to lead her down a different path. Desperate to escape the world of law, she began writing about interior design for a local magazine, which led to a career in media – including the editorship of a several design magazines. She now freelances and writes about design, fashion, food and travel.

CHUAN LOOI

PHOTOGRAPHER Fortunate enough to be a pupil of legendary photographer, Wing Shya during his time in Hong Kong, Chuan has since photographed models and celebrities such as John Woo and Elle Macpherson, for countless prestigious fashion magazines, including Elle, Harper’s Bazaar and Esquire. He is also no stranger to advertising campaigns, having shot for Louis Vuitton, Bally and Chanel, amongst others. Chuan published his first book in 2010 and presented his first solo exhibition in 2014.

MAVIS ANG

HAIRSTYLIST Being a hair stylist has always been Mavis’s childhood dream, so it’s no wonder she pursued her career with relentless passion. Mavis has since chalked up 11 years of experience in the hair styling business; nine of which have been with the popular Shawn Cutler. She has worked with and styled for celebrities such as Deborah Henry, Elaine Daly and Kiran Jassal.

Enthral Art Design (001636736-A) No. 11, Jalan Brunei Barat, Off Jalan Pudu, 55100 Kuala Lumpur, Tel: +603-2144 0040

Wardrobe Magazine is published by WB Wardrobe Sdn Bhd. The views and opinions expressed or implied in Wardrobe Magazine are those of the authors or contributors and do not necessarily reflect those of WB Wardrobe Sdn Bhd, its directors or editorial staff. All rights reserved by WB Wardrobe Sdn Bhd. All information is correct at time of printing. Reproduction in whole or in part, without written permission is prohibited. All materials published remain the property of WB Wardrobe Sdn Bhd. Transparencies, CDs or films submitted for publication are sent at the owner’s risk and while every care is taken, neither Wardrobe Magazine nor its agents are responsible for any loss or damage.

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ONE JACKET, THREE LOOKS

GO FROM WORK TO PLAY WITH JUST ONE JACKET. WORDS BY PATRICK LOH PHOTOGRAPHY BRYAN ONG

Gingham single breasted half lined sports jacket with notch lapels, RM3,100 Pure cotton shirt, RM480 Black wool trousers, RM640 Aqua wool tie, RM270 Cotton pocket square, RM150 All by Wardrobe

Look#1: For the office The same hue is used in all classic suits but as fashion suggests, you don’t have to follow that rule to look your smartest. Dark colours are always best to keep things formal. On this look, a darker pair of trousers is used to match the blue jacket with a tailored white shirt, a tie and pocket square. As the day draws to an end, lose your tie and you are ready for drinks and dinner. Feel free to undo a button at the top if you are heading to a bar or a casual establishment. One button and that’s it. It is considered rude to reveal too much. Top everything with a pair of black lace-up oxfords, to match with the black trousers.

Your tie should always achieve the dimple. It gives an added flair and character to your knot.

A white shirt should always look crisp and well pressed. When it turns yellow and tired, it is time to let it retire.

Your pocket square should not match your tie. Rather, it should complement a colour found on your tie, or contrast your tie altogether.

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The suit seen here is paired with a baby pink shirt, but the possibilities are endless. Match with other lightly toned shirts such as sky blue or white for a very elegant look.

A pocket square can be used as a casual accessory that adds flair to an open shirt and jacket combination.

Grey pants go really well with brown or tan coloured shoes, adding a more smart-casual feel to your look.

Look #2: For travels and informal meetings When attending informal meetings in a hotel lounge or a café, you needn’t wear a 2-piece lounge suit. That doesn’t mean you can turn up in just a shirt and trousers either, so casually suit up in this look. Using the same jacket, pair with a light coloured shirt and cotton trousers. The necktie isn’t required but wear a pocket square for a touch of refinement. You wouldn’t want to look too intimidating for an informal lunch or an afternoon coffee. Finish off with black penny loafers or laceup suede oxfords. This look is perfect for travelling and during transits at airport lounges.

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Cotton shirt, RM480 Cotton trousers, RM380 By Wardrobe


Navy linen trousers, RM650 By Wardrobe

Avoid flashy logos on your polo t-shirt.

Keep chinos slim fit for a smart, tailored look.

Look #3: For dinner and drinks Pair the same jacket with relaxed and easy linen trousers or denim jeans for a casual night out. Seen here is a very urban and polished all-black look, paired with a button-down polo. This is perfect for your weekend dinner or drinks. Lose the pocket square for a clean, simple and understated but well put-together look. Round it off with light coloured sneakers for a laidback feel or penny loafers if you want a touch of refinement.

Do not wear chunky hightop sneakers or risk looking like a high-school rebel.

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THE SHARP DRESSER’S WARDROBE MUST-HAVES WARDROBE STAPLES YOU NEED TO COMPLETE YOUR STYLE STATEMENT. WORDS BY SHARMINI M.RETHINASAMY

THE OXFORD BUTTON-DOWN SHIRT As the most versatile piece of clothing in a man’s wardrobe, the Oxford button-down shirt goes with just about everything and, if paired correctly, on any casual occasion. The shirt is made of Oxford material – a thick, densely woven cotton with a signature basket weave pattern – and has a button-down collar. Every wardrobe should have at least a white and light blue OBD handy. How to wear it: Best worn on casual occasions, the OBD looks great paired with a pair of chinos, jeans or cords. Wear it under a crewneck jumper and finish off with loafers or derbies for that cool look.

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DENIM JEANS A must-have in any guy’s wardrobe, denim jeans have to be of good quality to begin with. Too cheap a pair would result in the jeans looking – you guessed it – cheap and will start to look worn after a couple of washes. The fit is a crucial detail to consider when buying a pair; a slim fit will work either dressed up or down. As for colour, best opt for dark denim – they are the most versatile and suitable for both a casual or dress up situation. How to wear it: For dressier occasions, pair it with a button-down shirt and a sports jacket. Complete the look with a pair of brogues. For a casual look, a simple black tee and white sneakers will perfect the look.

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NAVY SUIT The versatile navy blue suit is a wardrobe must. It implies professionalism and respectfulness, and is suitable to be worn either in the daytime or evening. The combinations with shirts and ties are endless, which makes this colour all the more endearing. Cool colours suit any skin tone, giving it an extra plus for wearability. How to wear it: It suits any coloured shirt, even black! Or pair it with a black belt and the classic Oxford.

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CREW NECK T-SHIRT Of the most common and functional t-shirts, the crew neck is at the top of the list. The fit is of utmost importance, otherwise the whole look would result in an epic fail in the style department. Opt for a relaxed but snug fit, not a baggy or frumpy cut. Having said that, a circulation-restricting piece is also a big ‘no’. How to wear it: Wear it on its own or under a button-up shirt. Pair it with a leather jacket for that James Dean look.

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CHINOS Chinos come in navy, khaki, sand or stone, and are adaptable and casual. They are also office appropriate. Choose flat fronted or pleated, with cuffs or without. For those who find themselves in suits very often, the navy chino is your best bet. How to wear it: Wear with all kinds of jackets, or just a shirt or sweater. Dress it up with an unstructured sports coat, button-up and loafers. Alternatively, go casual with a pair of sneakers, t-shirt and leather jacket.

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WHITE SNEAKERS An absolute essential in any well-dressed man’s wardrobe is a pair of white sneakers. Clean and classy, it pairs well with casual attire and even the more dressy ensembles. How to wear it: Style your sneakers with shorts and t-shirts. Or wear them with jeans or chinos and throw on a light jacket.

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BLACK LACE-UPS Best for formal events, the black lace-ups are classic and understated. They are traditional and uncomplicated, and every man should have one pair on standby. How to wear it: This traditional and uncomplicated shoe style is simple enough to be worn with a suit, yet has an elegance that can be paired with a tux.

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BOMBER JACKET For that instant masculine vibe, a bomber makes every guy look a better version of himself. It is identified by its ribbed cuffs and hem, front zip closure and defined neckline. How to wear it: Wear it with a pair of chinos or casual trousers. Style it with a beanie and a pair of trainers, and you have a winning look!

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LAPELS Lapels are an important design element and come in a variety of styles. The notch lapel is the most common and fits most body shapes and sizes. Narrow lapels tend to be trendier and wider lapels are dressier. Peak lapels on a lounge suit are dressier as well because the peak lapel comes from the dinner jacket. As for the shawl collar, it is commonly found on the dinner jacket.

DARTS The darts should be level with the jacket’s main button. To avoid a boxy look, a suit should be darted at the waist for a nice clean silhouette. The thinnest point should be around the jacket’s main button; on top if it’s a 2-button jacket or at the middle of a 3-button jacket.

THE ANATOMY OF A GOOD SUIT A GUIDE TO ACHIEVING THE PERFECT FIT

WORDS BY SHARMINI M.RETHINASAMY PHOTOGRAPHY WARDROBE

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SHOULDERS Ensure the shoulder lies flat and that the seam is of the same length as the shoulder bone underneath. For a perfect fit, the sleeve should be right where your arm meets your shoulder.

THE FIT If you can see a very pronounced “X” when you fasten your button, it would mean that the jacket is too tight which in turn causes the strain on the button. Just a little pull is fine but anything too obvious will make it look very unnatural.

SLEEVE LENGTH About half an inch of the shirt cuff should be visible beyond the jacket cuff. The suit sleeve shouldn’t cover the cuff entirely.

JACKET LENGTH A good length should fall past the waist and cover a man down to the point where his butt starts to curve back inward, and stop there. The hands are also a good marker — where the hem of the jacket should hit right around the middle of your hand, or just past where the fingers meet the palm.

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GROOMING 101 FOR MEN

GROOMING FOR MEN IS NOT ABOUT SELF-IMPORTANCE BUT SELFRESPECT. WE GO BEYOND SKIN DEEP AND SHARE JUST HOW YOU CAN TAKE CARE OF THAT HANDSOME FACE OF YOURS. WORDS BY SHARMINI M. RETHINASAMY PHOTOGRAPHY BY ISTOCKPHOTO

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SKIN Combat the visible signs of ageing with a foolproof skincare regime. With the right products, smoothen out wrinkles and fine lines and revitalise tired skin. We break down the three essential methods to keep skin looking its best at all times: Cleanse and Exfoliate Start the day with a face wash. Refrain from the typical male mantra “one product does it all�! Do not use soap and water or shower gel as this will not be kind to your skin. Hard water will leave skin dehydrated and not clean; dry in some places and oilier in others. Investing in a good cleanser is important, as this is crucial to preparing a good base for the moisturiser to be absorbed into later.

Hard water will leave skin dehydrated and not clean. wardrobe 25


 xfoliateonceaweekifyouhaveoilyskinandtwiceifyourskinis E dry.Agoodexfoliationwillallowthemoisturisertobeabsorbedand hydrateskineffectively.Useproductsthatcontainglycolicacidasit helpsbuffawaydeadskincellsandencouragethegrowthofnewones, makingskinlookyoungerandhealthier.Takethisstepalittlefurther. Exfoliationisn’tlimitedtojustthefaceasdeadskincellsaccumulate everywhere.Youcanusethescrubontheneck,elbowsandanywhere onthebodywhereyoucangetabreakoutofacne. Startbygettingyourfacewetintheshowerandthenrubasmall amountoftheexfoliatorintoyourhands.Massageyourfaceusing circularmotions.Noneedtoscrubtoohardasthecoarsenessofthe productwilldothework.Aftermassagingforabout30secondstoa minute,rinseclean. Try: Neal’s Yard Remedies Men Purifying Face Wash and Kiehl’s Facial Fuel Energizing Scrub Moisturise and Protect Your Skin Agoodmoisturiserhelpsreplenishthemoistureyouloseonadaily basis.Infact,shavingisaformofexfoliation.Hencemoisturising afteryourshavewillhelpsoothetheskinandrestoreitsprotective barrier.Generally,menhavenormaltooilyskin,thereforeawaterbased,oil-freemoisturiserwouldworkbest.Chooseamoisturiserthat containsantioxidantslikevitaminsA,CandE,whichcanprotectskin cellsfromageing.

driestarea,whicharethecheeks.Usecircularmotionsgentlywith thetipsofyourfingers. Try: Malin + Goetz Vitamin E Face Moisturizer Shaving and Trimming Ifyoulikeacleanshavedlook,youwillneedtoincludeshavingin yourdailymorningroutine.Ifyourfacialhairdoesn’tgrowrelatively fast,youcanalsoshaveeveryotherdayoreveneverythreedays.If youhavedecidedthatyouwanttogrowabeard,youmustbewilling toinvesttimeandeffortintheupkeepotherwisejustdon’tbotherto growone.Growingabeardisalmostanartandinvolvesalotofcare andgrooming. Startoffwithwashingyourbeardwithabeardshampooandthen conditionit–thiswillhelpsoftenthehair.Useabrushandbrushagainst thegrainofyourbeard;thiswillmakethehairsstandup,makingiteasier totrimandalsospotinconsistenciesinlength.Then,useyourclipper andtrimtoyourpreferredlengthstartingwithabiggerguardandwork yourwaydown.Forasimplelook,workwithanevenlengthallaround. Formoreshape,usealongerguardaroundthechinandashorterone atthecheeksandtemples. Forthemoustache,combhairdownovertheupperlipandtrimaway anythingthatcoversthelip.

I nvestinacombinationmoisturiser-sunscreenforextraprotection againstharmfulUVrays.MakesureithasanSPFofatleast15.

Fortheneck,placetwofingersaboveyourAdam’sappleanddrawan imaginarylinefrombehindeacheartothispoint,creatingaUshape. Shaveeverythingbelowthisspot.

Applymoisturiseronslightlydamp,towel-driedskin.Alittlegoesa longway,sodon’tslatheritonasitcouldhaveanegativeeffecton yourface.Usealittleandspreaditevenlyoveryourface,fromthe

Try: ClarinsMen Smooth Shave Foaming Gel; Clinique For Men 2 in 1 Skin Hydrator + Beard Conditioner; Aveda Men Pure-Formance Dual Action Aftershave

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HAIR

Glycerin: A humectant that pulls moisture into hair and retains it

Jojoba oil: Used to reproduce hair cells at a fast pace

Keratin: One of a family of fibrous structural protein that targets the cuticle to strengthen hair

Moroccan oil: Keeps frizz under control and serves as a dandruff remedy

For the best results ensure your shampoo has some of the following to help upgrade your show-stopping mane:

Olive oil: Provides softness and does away with flakiness

Argan oil: An ideal conditioner that helps to treat split ends to promote a softer and silkier balance

Shea butter: Feeds moisture, vitamins and fat to the scalp

• •

Aloe vera: Helps to repair dead skin cells on the scalp

Tea tree oil: Unclogs follicles to nourish roots for hair growth

Coconut oil: High in Vitamin E and a great moisturiser to heal damaged skin

For healthy, resilient hair, you could get away with a good wash once a week. Heavy and frequent shampooing can strip away the good nourishing oils your scalp needs to stay healthy and keep hair hydrated. Nevertheless, rinsing your hair every night and day is essential. There is always an exception to the rule. Guys who use a lot of hair products should wash it off every day to avoid buildup and clogged pores.

Try: Dove Men Care Minerals Shampoo-Sage Elements Fortifying Shampoo + Conditioner; Paul Mitchell Clarifying Shampoo Three

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BODY Nothing like starting with a hot shower that opens up your pores and getting rid of the dirt. Whether you choose a bar soap or body wash, it is essential to use one with moisturising ingredients such as Vitamin E, olive oil and jojoba oil. A body lotion is essential for guys with dry skin or parts that have dry skin. Best applied after a shower especially on elbows, knees, shoulders, lower legs and hands. Hands are often susceptible to becoming dry, chapped and cracked from frequent use. Hand lotions that are rich in hydrating qualities but not greasy are best. Body hair can be sexy but that all depends on where and how much. Chest hair has to be trimmed and tamed, so start your electric trimmer on the longest setting and prune all the way to a desired, comfortable and neat length. Trim underarms but don’t remove it all as that will have some women questioning your masculinity, unless you’re a male model. So, up the manhood and keep it nice and neat. Back and shoulder hair was never a turn-on for most women. So, do yourself a favour and get rid of it. Likewise, a well-groomed landscape around your genitals will keep unpleasant odours at bay and perhaps make you look more well endowed? Try: Kiehl’s Ultimate Man Body Scrub Soap; Molton Brown Black Peppercorn Body Lotion; Kiehl’s Ultimate Strength Hand Salve

Body hair can be sexy but that all depends on where and how much.

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SUITED FOR THE CEREMONY THE GROOM HAS MORE TO DO THAN JUST GETTING THE RINGS AND HIMSELF TO THE WEDDING ON TIME. HE HAS TO DRESS THE PART.

WORDS BY SHARMINI M. RETHINASAMY PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO

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It’s your big day and you pull out all the stops when it comes to preparing an unforgettable event. Your wardrobe essentials for the wedding and the dinner or luncheon that follows are the showstoppers. “We encourage our clients to not go overboard when it comes to wearing the right suit for their big occasion,” explains Lim Fang Heng, Wardrobe’s CEO. “We advise them against wearing anything that’s the trend of the moment. This is because we wouldn’t want them to look back years later and cringe! We don’t want our clients to look at their wedding photographs and go ‘Oh my, what was I thinking!’ We rather they look back and appreciate what they see even 10 or 20 years on.” “It’s best to maintain a classic look as opposed to something thematic or on trend. For example, the K-pop trend of the moment are suits that are really short, very colourful, thematic and playful. It’s best to go classic as it’s timeless.” Grooms should also pay heed to the cultural requirements of the occasion. “Should you be partaking in a cultural ceremony, do wear a traditional outfit to complement the bride and the occasion.”

BUILDING BLOCKS FOR A GROOM’S OUTFIT Grooms can start planning their wedding ensemble with a two-piece suit and build on that. “Begin with a jacket and pants in the same colour such as dark blue, black or charcoal grey,” says Fang Heng. “Use plain material as opposed to patterned. Patterned material like stripes may project a more corporate image, which you may want to avoid.” Adding on to the suit, Fang Heng suggests wearing a tie. “Go with a plain coloured tie. Small, subtle patterns are still wearable.” Switching up the look, one can progress to a three-piece ensemble by throwing on a vest. “This would give your look more distinction; opt to add on a tie or a bowtie.” From the three-piece, one can also move on to a tuxedo. “Wear a tuxedo, maintain the bowtie, have a pleated shirt and cummerbund,” he says. “We strongly recommend this look for the formal occasion, this is the ultimate dress-up.” “Bear in mind that tuxedos are meant to be worn from 6pm onwards and not for the morning,” he adds. “The tuxedo, a gentlemen’s outfit, was made in such a way that a man was relegated to stand in the shadows when out with his lady. It was to allow a lady to shine in all her finest, as the gentleman stood aside without overshadowing her.” For tuxedos, classic black is encouraged. “Should the groom prefer something different, midnight blue is another choice to consider. It’s more trendy and current as opposed to the classic black. A white tuxedo can also be considered for a locality with a tropical climate.”

we advise our clients against wearing anything that’s the trend of the moment. We don’t want them to look back years later and cringe. 30 wardrobe


TRADITIONAL WEDDING •

Wear a traditional outfit, not a suit

BEACH WEDDING • Wear linen • Stick with neutral colours • Go barefoot or wear sandals Possible combinations: • Vest + shirt + trousers + bowtie or tie • Jacket + shirt + trousers • Waistcoat + shirt (rolled-up sleeves) + trousers

GARDEN WEDDING • •

Wear linen or cotton Use more colour (i.e. beige, light grey or blue and pastel green) Possible combination: • Jacket + shirt + trousers + tie or bowtie

TUXEDOS • • • •

Classic black is best Options of midnight blue for a trendier look Wear patent black lace-ups To be worn after 6pm

WEDDING SUITS •

Use plain material, not patterned • Go with a plain coloured tie • Transform a 2-piece suit into a 3-piece with a vest Possible combinations: • Lighter coloured suit for the day, and 3-piece suit or tuxedo for the evening • Suit + light coloured shirt for the day, and same suit + white shirt + bowtie or tie for the evening

ACCESSORIES • • • • • • •

Plain coloured ties and bowties Understated real floral boutonnière Pocket square to match colour theme Simple cufflinks Dress watch Pointy black lace-ups with long black socks Pair lighter coloured suits with lighter coloured shoes

GROOMSMEN • • • •

Different styles for all Varying shades of colour Same boutonnière for all Same pocket square for all

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Pairing different colours is permissible, but ensure the look isn’t too garish. “If wearing a midnight blue tux, you may pair it with black trousers. The tuxedo jacket can be a little outlandish in material choice, such as trimmings of brocade for some contrast, but be sure to limit this only to the jacket and not to the trousers too; it would definitely be over-the-top.” Are tails even in the equation, you might ask? “Not here in Malaysia,” he quips. The versatility of the suit offers many options for the stylish groom. Fang Heng suggests in a Chinese wedding when the groom heads off to meet his bride at her home, he could inject a bit of colour into his main suit. “Opt for a pink shirt; be playful even, as the occasion calls for that.” “If you’re on a budget, transform your look with the same suit for the evening with a crisp white shirt with a French cuff, and complement the look with a bowtie or tie.” “There are customers who opt for a lighter coloured suit for the day and either a three-piece suit or tuxedo for the evening festivities,” adds Fang Heng. As with every ensemble, a suit wouldn’t look complete without the right accessories. “Accessories help bring together all the colours or themes of the wedding. If your colour is pink, then opt for a pink pocket square to adhere to the overall look of the day.” The keep-it-simple theme further extends to the boutonnière. “We advise grooms to wear real flowers. It doesn’t take a lot of effort. Keeping it understated is also important as you wouldn’t want it to detract attention away from your suit.” Cufflinks, too, are given due attention. “Keep away from anything outlandish,” says Fang Heng. “Put on a timeless piece and not anything too fancy or cringe-worthy like a skull!” Another key element to bear in mind is the choice of watch the groom wears on his wedding day. “Always wear a dress watch; the flat type,” he advises. “This will allow the shirt sleeve to stay down at the wrist. Bulky watches hinder the overall look whereby the cuffs get caught at the watch and stay there, and are not visible under the suit.” Should the groom insist on wearing a bulky piece on his big day, it’s important to inform his suit maker of his choice. “We’re able to factor in the size of the watch when taking measurements, allowing ample room to accommodate the bulge.” It has been said that shoes make the man, so don’t leave this important piece out of the equation. “A patent black shoe is preferred for those wearing a black tuxedo. For suits, any lace-up, black pair would complete the look. The pointy variety is preferred over square ones.” “The lighter the suit, the lighter coloured a shoe you can opt for. For example a blue suit pairs well with a brown pair of shoes. However this works for day use only, and not for evenings.” Complete the ensemble with long black socks. “Steer clear of the ankle-high ones as they are deemed inappropriate.”

THE GREAT OUTDOORS Another key factor to bear in mind when planning your wardrobe for the wedding is the type of occasion it will be. Whether it’s for an outdoor, traditional or indoor wedding, suiting options vary to enable a comfortable fit for the right environment. Factors such as ease of movement and weather, especially for outdoor weddings, are crucial to consider before making your choice. According to Fang Heng, one has more options for a garden wedding. “A jacket, trousers, shirt, tie or even a bowtie work well.” “Garden weddings allow for a bit more colour,” he adds. “Beige, light greys and blues work nicely. Having said this, the choice of colour should relate to the time of the day you’d be wearing the suit. If it’s earlier in the day, even pastel green works.” In our climate, choice of material is key. You wouldn’t want to look like you’ve just stepped out of the gym after a workout with sweaty spots when you’re dressed to a T! “Wear cottons and linens to suit our hot weather,” Fang Heng advises. “Even a mix of cottons will do the trick. Cottons are natural fibres and breathe well.” Another favourite outdoor setting for a wedding is the beach. “With the breezy conditions, opt for linen,” enthuses Fang Heng. “Linen gives an outdoorsy, relaxed feel to the whole occasion.” “The groom can wear a vest with his shirt and a tie or bowtie to complement it. Another option would be to wear a linen jacket minus the waistcoat. If the groom wishes to be less formal, he can go with just a linen waistcoat and shirt with the sleeves rolled up.” According to Fang Heng, the best colours for a groom’s linen outfit would be more neutral, muted tones such as khaki, beige and light grey. To inject a little character into your ensemble, Fang Heng suggests going barefoot or wearing a pair of sandals.

We’re able to factor in the size of the watch allowing ample room to accomodate the bulge.

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GROOMSMEN No one gets left behind when it comes to a wedding entourage. At Wardrobe, even the groomsmen get suited in their finest offerings. “We advise the groomsmen to adopt a different look,” says Fang Heng. “It lends variety to the occasion. You may have a colour theme to work with, and that unifying colour binds the wedding entourage. For example, if it’s blue, have your groomsmen in different shades of blue and in different styles. To bring everyone together, you may choose to have the same pocket squares, ties or even boutonnières for all of them. Having every groomsman in the exact same outfit would make them look like a wedding band!”

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TAILORED TO PERFECTION THE FINER DETAILS OF MAKING A BESPOKE SHIRT. WORDS BY SARAH CHONG PHOTOGRAPHY BRYAN ONG

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ne size does not fit all as no two body sizes are created the same. But that’s something you won’t be experiencing with bespoke tailoring. Menswear finds its greatest pleasure in the almost perfect fit and the team at Wardrobe understands that. By providing their expertise and making sure you get the full experience from when you first enter the door to when you put on the final product, you can be assured of quality. Here, we take a look at how a bespoke shirt is made. Wardrobe believes that good quality materials is where it all starts for everything else to fall into place. Offering only pure cotton from India and Europe instead of synthetics like polyester, this natural material’s two-ply construction – luxurious and breathable – is perfect for Malaysian weather. With experience and through touching and feeling the fabric, making sure it’s not too thin or too thick, Wardrobe finds the best and most suitable types of fabric for its clientele. Using two-ply thread that’s firm and won’t fade, Wardrobe offers fabrics of 80s up to 200s thread count. This signifies the number of cotton threads

13 measurements are taken to cut your bespoke shirt.

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the suit jacket can layer on woven together lengthwise smoothly. and widthwise into one inch With a comprehensive of the fabric. selection of fabric types, Yet, a bespoke shirt colours, 21 collar designs, 12 is more than just its cuff designs and monogram material. The technical styles, the number of choices aspect of its execution has you will be faced with can be to be perfect – no room for intimidating. But it is here estimations. The team will that you get to play designer, take at least 13 upper body choosing exactly what you measurements that will be want, reflecting something translated onto paper, then of your character. onto fabric. What’s great Once measurements are about a bespoke shirt is its taken to the factory, it’s full personalisation to you, these guys with decades of and you alone. Men don’t experience that you’ve got just differ in shape from to trust. Starting with the each other; a man is not head cutter, he draws the even symmetrical. Plus, measurement onto a piece of by taking into account all sorts of body shapes and postures, whether Wardrobe carries a tracing paper where everything is precisely it’s clients with bellies, sloping shoulders wide variety of fabrics mapped, right down to the ⅛-inch, and from Italy, India not just of the usual small, medium or large or just men with broader shoulders or and more. template. This part is crucial. If the head bigger arms but with a smaller waist, this is where a bespoke shirt sets its mark. Something cutter draws the measurements wrongly, the steps else that is important to take note of is the armhole that follow will only go south. Even with experience measurement. Ready-to-wear shirts would usually of more than 30 years, the head cutter will still take have bigger armholes so that it fits the majority of his time to draw one piece of the shirt’s pattern. men, yet men are unaware that the extra fabric can The measurements and patterns are then carefully look untidy and billow inside the suit jacket. It is translated onto fabric, and then an experienced only when you have a strong shirt foundation that seamstress will carefully cut your chosen cloth

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This step is crucial: Here, the master tailor traces and cuts out the garment frame according to the design and measurements.

Making sure the print on each side is perfectly matched.

by hand. The measurements of each and every customer is kept for future reference should he want to place another order. One could sneakily get away with a solid coloured shirt if it’s not sewn properly, but with patterns such as checks or stripes, it’s highly important that the lines and patterns are matched along the seams, laterally and vertically. The team at Wardrobe doesn’t miss out on this step; it’s what makes a bespoke shirt a master of its class. It’s details such as this that the layman is often unaware of but always appreciates. The same can be said of using a This precision pressure fusing machine. By applying control machine heats the heat on the collar and cuffs, collar and cuffs to ensure shirts have a smooth surface it helps to keep the collar and to prevent them from and cuff sections smoother, fraying after extended wear. sturdier, and prevents fraying after extended wear. Hand-worked sewing machines are used to assemble the shirt, bringing every part of the shirt together. Whether you’re choosing a shirt with a plain front or hidden button beneath the placket, Wardrobe uses imported shell buttons for a lavish finish. Now, your shirt is ready for your fitting. It should look balanced, hanging correctly from your shoulders and sitting nicely on your neck. With our humid weather conditions, you can proudly take off that jacket and feel entirely comfortable in your perfectly fitted shirt.

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A SUITABLE MATCH BENJAMIN PANG IS AT THE HELM OF WARDROBE’S IOI CITY MALL PUTRAJAYA BRANCH. HE TELLS US WHY TAILORING IS IMPORTANT AND WHAT WARDROBE CLIENTELE CAN EXPECT OF THE NEW OUTLET. WORDS BY TANIA JAYATILAKA PHOTOGRAPHY BRYAN ONG

With quiet confidence, Benjamin Pang says “When your clothes fit you well, you look smart. It’s that simple.” He chooses each word carefully, pausing ever so often to gather his thoughts as he stands behind the counter of Wardrobe’s suave new outlet at IOI City Mall in Putrajaya, which opened in May 2017. “At the end of the day, tailoring is about making sure the customer looks smart.” Pang’s soft-spoken and unassuming demeanour puts you at ease from the moment you walk through the doors. It’s not so much his speech that reveals his style and skill; it’s his keen observation and razor-sharp focus that spring into action whenever a customer requires his advice. He turns my attention to a gentleman who has just left the store after ordering a suit. “When customers of irregular sizes walk in, I have to know how to meet their unique dressing needs, whether small or big in size. It’s a balance between what the customer wants to use and what looks best on him. That’s where I come in,” Pang says. A good tailor knows how much should be factored in for a great design, how much fabric to use, and a myriad of other minute details that must be ascertained upon first meeting the customer. “I make it a point to know what the customer wants and even the occasion for which the suit is being made before making any recommendations,” he says. Pang draws from more than 20 years of experience in tailoring, which he says gives him a distinct edge on more challenging projects.

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IOI CITY MALL PUTRAJAYA Lot G-79, Ground Floor, IOI City Mall, Lebuh IRC, IOI Resort City, 62502, Putrajaya. T: 603 – 8959 7779 E: talk2us@wardrobe. com.my


“I started tailoring 21 years ago: I had to pay to apprentice in a tailor shop in Sungei Wang, and I worked there until the late 90’s after finishing my apprenticeship,” he recounts. “In 2007 I opened my own tailoring shop in Damansara Perdana, which I ran until 2016.” Today, at Wardrobe, Pang attends to the sartorial needs of men from all walks of life – most of his clientele fall between the ages of 24 and 40 years old, and are a good mix of locals as well as visitors from the UK, Australia, Japan and Africa. Pang admits rather bluntly that many men don’t know how to wear suits well. Most need professional advice on what to wear for a certain occasion, how to match colours, how to discern the appropriate jacket length, and other details that are the difference between a good suit and a great one. “Tailoring does not give you the same end-product as your run of the mill ‘ready-towear’ or any of those established fashion labels: it matches the individual’s size and form.” Pang explains. “It requires a high level of professionalism and accuracy.” Getting the most ‘accurate’ measurement possible can mean different things to different customers, as Pang well knows. That’s why it takes skill, experience and patience to look at a customer the way Pang does and be able to recommend the right design, the right jacket length, a slim fit or regular, and other aspects to suit the individual – even knowing how to explain when a particular feature is not conducive to the overall look. “It translates to honesty and transparency. I have to tell our customers what looks good and what doesn’t,” Pang shares. It’s a task that’s easier said than done, especially with the many first-time customers who walk into Wardrobe’s IOI City Mall Putrajaya store.

Gaining a customer’s trust and confidence is a time-consuming process, just one of many challenges that Pang must take in his stride as he manages the newly opened outlet. To say that Pang has his work cut out for him is something of an understatement. But years in the menswear industry have given him a meticulous eye for detail and a resolve to deliver only the best service and value to each customer. Immaculately dressed in a suit and tie with a long measuring tape draped over his shoulders, Pang takes as much time as he needs with customers, poring over fabric samples and measurement details until they meet the expectations of both parties. Watching him at work within the store’s pristine environment, one can’t help but get the impression that he is someone customers can rely on to provide a truly bespoke tailoring experience that will keep them coming back a long time after.

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SPINNING A YARN WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR ATTIRE, THE MATTERS OF COMFORT, FIT AND TIMELESSNESS CAN HANG BY A THREAD; WARDROBE CARRIES SOME OF THE FINEST BY RENOWNED FABRIC MERCHANT, HOLLAND & SHERRY. WORDS BY SHARMINI M. RETHINASAMY

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enowned for their wide range of quality wool and silk fabrics, Holland & Sherry boasts an impressive 200 years in the business. Following years of honing their skills in the trade, the brand is reknown for fabrics that are subtle, luxurious and soft-to-the-touch – attributes which are sought after by luxury brands around the world.

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The fabric mill, which was founded in London in 1836 by Stephen George Holland and Frederick Sherry and still operates today, provides a diverse range of fabric patterns to tailors and couture designers. Living up to their tagline “the finest cloths in the world”, Holland & Sherry provide a versatile range of highly contemporary and elegant fabrics, among them Cashique, Black Pearl, Koh I Noor, Blue Sapphire, Khotan Silk, Monadh Mor, Masterpiece Gold Super 180’s Wool Worsted, English Mohair, Snowy River Lightweight Super 120’s, Target Gaberdines Super 100’s and 130’s, and Swan Hill Luxury Super 160’s Worsted with Cashmere. Holland & Sherry started as a woolen merchant on Old Bond Street in London before moving to the woolen trade hub in Golden Square in 1886. The company eventually moved to and established a formidable presence on Saville Row in 1982, which still remains the company’s headquarters. By the turn of the 20th century, Holland & Sherry had began to export its finest wool to the rest of the world. Increasing demand from America’s fashion capital of New York encouraged the brand to open a sales office there.

a formidable presence on Saville Row, the space still stands as the company’s headquarters. It wasn’t long before Holland & Sherry was making inroads into Europe and the Americas, establishing steady business for the company. Prior to the revolution in Russia, the company had even opened a distribution warehouse in St Petersburg with much success; it was later reestablished after the revolution. As Holland & Sherry continued to grow, they acquired and brought other cloth merchants into the fold, enriching the business by offering a wider range of fabrics. In 1968, the company purchased Lowe Donald, a Scottish cloth merchant and relocated the former’s warehouse in the Scottish Borders. Since then Holland & Merchant has continued to acquire some 20 other wool companies, making theirs a label steeped in history and quality. Of all the Golden Square cloth merchants established in the late 1800s, only Holland & Sherry remains functioning as a business entity, proving their winning formula.

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SHIRT SWAG

WHEN ALL YOU NEED ARE THE FINEST YARNS AND DYES TO COMPLEMENT A WELL-TAILORED SHIRT, TESSITURA MONTI STEPS UP TO THE PLATE. WORDS BY SHARMINI M. RETHINASAMY

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uality woven shirting fabrics are the order of the day at Wardrobe. It comes as no surprise then that the company only affords the impeccable service standards of Tessitura Monti for its choice in shirting fabrics. Through the decades, Gruppo Tessile Monti’s designs have become an institution in weaving Giza cotton into intricate yarn-dyed cotton shirting fabrics that have made fashion statements and influenced the success of the world’s leading brands. Opened in 1911 in Italy, Tessitura Monti’s continual innovation of the manufacturing process led to Tessitura Monti India Pvt. Ltd (TMIPL) being established in India to lead in the production of premium yarn-dyed shirting fabrics. What began as weaving facility quickly grew into an operation with 200 looms and 900 employees set across an area of 20,000 square metres. Trained by their Italian counterparts, the facility supplied fabric to premium apparel brands. Today, with a whopping USD60 million investment, the facility delivers optimum quality fabric in sync with its parent company in Italy. The fabrication of Tessitura Monti’s quality poplin, twill, stripes, checks and all yarn-dyed products begins life with the selection of the best Egyptian Giza yarn, and is followed by the application of high quality dyeing agents. Stringent quality control procedures are put in place to ensure every metre of fabric is woven to perfection. Over the decades, the Monti Group has emerged as a specialist in producing 100 percent cotton yarn dyed shirting for finer count formal shirting wear. It is well known in the market for its very heavy satin design with colour combinations that are complicated to weave. With its wide range of products in its portfolio, Tessitura Monti India Pvt. Ltd is all geared up to cater to the exactling requirements of any customer or brand.

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The fabrication of quality poplin, twill, stripes, checks and all yarn-dyed products begins life with the selection of the best Egyptian Giza yarn.


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STUNNING SWATCHES VITALE BARBERIS CANONICO’S CLOTHS ARE SOME OF THE CHOICEST FABRIC USED BY WARDROBE IN ITS BESPOKE TAILORING SERVICES. WORDS BY SHARMINI M. RETHINASAMY

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he Barberis clan traces its early forays into the textile industry back to 1663. The family’s unwavering commitment to the business and strengthening synergistic partnerships with factories, family and community, has made them the largest producer of high quality cloths in all of Italy. Vitale Barberis Canonico is located in the north of Turin and has remained a family-owned business for 15 generations. Over the years, the Barberis family has established a stronghold in the industry by ensuring only the highest quality raw material and processes are employed in producing their fabrics. Their exquisite wool comes from Australia’s Merino sheep which are bred under strict conditions on farms owned by the company. Stringent quality control methods are put in place to ensure that the wool contains no trace of dark fibre, are free of contamination, and possesses a superior soft hand. But it doesn’t end here. The wool fibres have to have certain characteristics, even in length, crimped and fine. The Barberis spinning process is the crux of the business. A strongly guarded secret handed down from generation to generation, this calculated process spun to the tune of Mozart is what makes their cloth tailor into beautiful garments. At Barberis, wool is never overspun, which could adversely affect the tailorability and performance of the fabric.

Barberis maintain their high quality also by investing in sophisticated, cutting-edge equipment with the most advanced technology. This enables fabric to be produced in greater volumes, more efficiently, maintaining the unique elements that add value to Barberis materials. Swatches of fabric are cut and constantly tested to measure strength, recovery and performance before it is distributed to adoring clientele. It’s no wonder Barberis cloths are hands down the very best and well-liked by Wardrobe’s clients.

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SUIT STYLES FOR SUCCESS THREE BUSINESSMEN TALK ABOUT THEIR PREFERENCES FOR BESPOKE SUITS AND HOW WARDROBE HAS EXTENDED ITS EXPERTISE IN PROJECTING AN IMAGE THAT EXTOLS THE VIRTUES OF SUCCESS.

WORDS BY SHARMINI M.RETHINASAMY & TANIA JAYATHILAKA • PHOTOGRAPHY RAYMOND PUNG • HAIR & MAKE-UP RADZI MUSA

RAYYAN FIRDAUS, 33

CEO OF SECURITY SYSTEMS

A gentleman is always focused on becoming the best version of himself and helping others do the same.

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ayyan Firdaus believes that “you should do everything in your power to influence the things that you can control in life.” The Perak-born entrepreneur adds, “Dressing well, staying fit, being kind to people, learning new things, staying positive and being surrounded by a healthy environment, friends and family – these are all crucial to one’s overall wellbeing.” Trendsetter A sharp dresser, Rayyan understands the importance of projecting the right image. Not wanting to be misconstrued as something he is not, he is careful in ensuring that his appearance is consistent with his personal, social and professional roles and goals.

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“You want people to view you in a certain way,” he explains. “You want people to realise that just because you hang out with a group of people or work in a certain institution, that does not mean you are one of them.” The well-travelled Rayyan has been exposed to a great deal of fashion. For his personal style, Rayyan gravitates towards Parisian men’s styling. “For leisure, I would prefer to wear something that’s minimal and simplistic in design and colour. A Parisian man is willing to spend a little bit more to get more durable denims and more comfortable cottons for his staple jeans and shirts.” “For work, I would prefer to choose between a professional business attire and a casual business attire, in neutral shades such as black and navy as they are more formal.” Being a trendsetter can be tiring, much to Rayyan’s chagrin. “Dressing fashionably is a good way to express myself and boost my confidence and can lead to success in other areas, both professionally and personally,” he says. “However, fashion trends change quickly and it sometimes feels impossible to keep up with the fast-paced and often inaccessible fashion world.” Being presentable in the company of others is of utmost importance to Rayyan. “I use fashion magazines such as August Man and Harper’s Bazaar as reference. Besides that, I subscribe to the observed fashion scene on social media. Many bloggers, models and designers use Instagram to share info about their favourite trends and sources of inspiration. I explore the #fashion hashtag on Instagram and find accounts that get you most inspired and excited about new trends. I also follow celebrities and designers whose style I admire the most.” Staying fashionable and ahead on trends can be quite tiring according to the fashion-loving Rayyan. “I have to agree with Coco Chanel when she said ‘less is more’!” Going Bespoke “There is a lot of difference between buying a suit from a luxury store and getting one made by a tailor,” explains Rayyan. “On a rare occasion that a suit from a branded store would fit me perfectly.” “The fitting from a tailor-made suit is way better than a ready-made one, simply because it is made to fit me inch by inch,” he shares. “The fitting is way better and most accurate; I have problems fitting into clothes off the rack. Furthermore, I would have to choose from a limited range of fabrics and styles that a particular brand has to offer. A tailor-made suit presents infinite options in terms of fabric and style, hence a preferred choice.” Wardrobe’s bespoke services were a natural choice for Rayyan. “The tailors are

professional and helpful. The consistency in fine quality craftsmanship and excellent services in sales and after sales made the experience in getting a suit all the more pleasant. For me, the fabric to the colour is of utmost importance but I also do want to look slick without having to sweat it!” The Gentleman At Heart In his perspective, the 33-yearold Manchester Metropolitan University alumni acknowledges that a modern-day gentleman is always focused on improving himself. “He is in the driver’s seat,” explains Rayyan. “He is focused on becoming the best version of himself and helping others to do the same.” Rayyan reaps the benefits from his demeanour. “I get treated better when I am polite and dress well. That is reason enough to want to be a modernday gentleman!” He adds, “Having said that, a gentleman should endeavour to be better than the average man, not only in his fashion style, but also in the way he carries himself as well as the way he interacts with others.” Rayyan has his life sussed out. “Everyone has a different perspective of the world. All citizens have a different sentiment on how people should act, their own definition of happiness and what traits make a good person.” “Some might consider loyalty, honesty and tolerance to be real important. I accord that these traits are vital, but I believe that the ability to be optimistic is the most essential trait of all. I also think having a sense of humour and a smile is very significant.” “Voltaire once said ‘Life is a shipwreck but we must not forget to sing in the lifeboats.’ This is one of my favourite quotes. Human existence is not flawless, but why should we lie about the imperfections of life when we can smile at the almost faultless. I trust that life is too short to waste on negativity. Being positive means looking out the window at thunderstorms saying, ‘This is good, the plants will be watered’ or ‘Don’t worry, it will clear up.’” wardrobe 51


JONATHAN CHOONG, 36

MANAGING PARTNER AT CHOONG & CO

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frequent customer of Wardrobe’s bespoke services, Jonathan raves about the selection of fabric and trimmings, that spoil him for choice. “They are skillful enough to cater to a wide range of suit design options,” he divulges, wearing one of his first commissioned pieces from Wardrobe: a classic 2-button fully canvassed navy suit in high twist, breathable Holland & Sherry wool. “From structured to unstructured, fully lined to partially lined, fully canvassed to half canvassed, adjusting the length of the jacket, the lapel size, the cut of the quarters on a jacket – the list of their expertise goes on. Each element provides a subtly different jacket and look.” According to Jonathan, the tailoring industry in Malaysia is not as vibrant as it once was. “Those who are still around might not even have their own workshop and have to outsource the tailoring. Those who still have a workshop, I can only assume are small because I hear that the turnaround time for commission of a fully bespoke suit can take months.” That is not the case with Wardrobe. “Wardrobe has one of the bigger and more well-run workshops in Malaysia, and some very skilled tailors, hence their top-notch craftsmanship and quick turnaround time.” Jonathan was introduced to tailoring by his late father, Dato Choong Phooi Ying, whose legal profession encouraged the latter’s fondness for tailored suits. “I remember him looking very good in his suits,” he recalls. “So an impression was made at an early age that a well-fitted suit has to be tailored.” As part of his studies in England, there were numerous occasions when a suit was required to be worn. “I was never satisfied with how the cheaper, off the rack suits fit.” In his quest for the perfect fit, he chanced upon Savile Row and was exposed to the history and culture of this famed street and the craftsmanship of their offerings. Having said that, Jonathan was never agreeable with their pricing. 52 wardrobe

Upon his return to Malaysia, he made a beeline for Wardrobe and met Fang Meng, Wardrobe’s Head Fitter, who has experience from Savile Row. “There are parallels with my profession and bespoke tailoring,” Jonathan explains. “Each legal matter is different, be it a miniscule difference or an entirely unique matter, and there is an element of craft required to adapt the advice for each individual case. It is also helpful that the Lim brothers are knowledgeable in their trade and craft. They are willing to share their knowledge, which I find interesting.” “Additionally, many of the suits on offer in Kuala Lumpur are of the trendier variety, whereas my preference leans towards the classics. Furthermore, off the rack suits from foreign brands are more suited to fit the Western build as opposed to the Asian build, which Wardrobe can account for. Wardrobe’s offerings have been able to fulfill my needs because I am given the option to choose how my commissions will look and am


secure in the knowledge that they will be well made.” Gaining Respectability And Vision As a member of the Rotary Club of Kuala Lumpur, Jonathan believes that a gentleman should be modern, or otherwise correlate back to what it is just to have the attributes of a respectable man or woman. “Times have changed, and there are more women now taking traditional roles played by men. But I believe the challenges of playing that role, whether by men and women, are the same and will always remain the same.” “One should study and train to improve oneself both mentally, physically and socially, to also build up one’s self to achieve a worthy undertaking, to be able to provide for your significant other, your family and your parents, to give back to society by mentoring and promoting the young, and providing for the less fortunate.” He adds, “Being able to gracefully and ethically master these challenges is the true mark of a ‘gentleman’ or ‘gentlewoman’. Also, it never hurts to look good whilst facing and undertaking these challenges; a gentleman or two have been known to be dapper fellows.” Jonathan is enroute to master his pursued undertakings and to achieve a high level of financial security for his loved ones, as well as to give back to society by helping the less fortunate. He states, “I am all for enjoying what life has to offer and coming to terms with my regrets before I leave this world.” Two qualities that have resonated within him recently was preparedness and the combination of self-coaching and visualisation.

I like to picture a future event, imagine all its difficulties, plans to overcome them and eventually a successful outcome.

“In terms of preparedness, it has become a habit for me to enquire about the background of an undertaking and spending some time to prepare to undertake it with some level of proficiency; this has put me in good stead.” “In terms of self-coaching, I found the benefits of having an internal cheerleader as opposed to an internal skeptic in aiding myself to drive forward. For visualisation, I like to picture a future event, imagine all its difficulties, plans to overcome them and eventually a successful outcome.” This life philosophy has Jonathan preparing for and visualising all his undertakings and their success. “It leaves me with waking up, dressing up and showing up. The rest I believe will run its natural course.”

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DATO’ SRI JEFFREY RAYMOND

CEO OF OEM AUTOSEATS MALAYSIA

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peaking of Wardrobe’s impeccable service and value to their clientele, Dato’ Sri Jeffrey Raymond doesn’t hesitate to celebrate good quality when he sees it. It’s no small achievement, receiving such accolades from the man who pioneered automobile leather upholstery manufacturing in Malaysia in the 90’s, a man who made it his mission to deliver premium leather car seats to more car owners through his business, OEM Autoseats Malaysia. Dato’ Sri Jeffrey’s long-standing patronage of Wardrobe began in his later years, when he found himself outgrowing many of the ready-to-wear outfits in stores. His decision to try bespoke clothing soon landed him in the capable hands of the father, J J Lim of present-day Wardrobe CEO, Mr Lim Fang Heng. After shifting between ready-to-wear and bespoke tailoring, Dato’ Sri Jeffrey knew he had found a keeper in Wardrobe’s timeless style and cutting-edge tailoring standards. “They (Wardrobe) were my first bespoke tailors. They still maintain the traditions their fathers started in early days; in fact, they’ve improved it further.” Dato’ Sri Jeffrey says with admiration. It’s no surprise then, that this entrepreneur and watchenthusiast won the Malaysia Tattler’s 2016 Couple of The Year Award, together with his beautiful wife, Datin Sri Joyce Raymond. Describing the moment he entered the awards ceremony, Dato’ Sri Jeffrey proudly recalls the effect his Wardrobe-made tuxedo had that evening: “The tuxedo I used was perfect from all angles. Why? Because it didn’t show me in a look that was posed, it produced a look that was just caught. And that was fantastic.” A Gentleman's Look Complementing his distinct sartorial aesthetic is the fact that Dato’ Sri Jeffrey dresses for comfort first. A man of practicality and steely determination, he knows what he wants and sticks to it— whether in business, healthy living, or in style choice. Undoubtedly, it is the harmonious balance of comfort and personal style that keeps him coming back to Wardrobe. “Don’t go making something that makes you feel like you’re trapped. I like good cuts; it’s difficult for me to get good cuts especially with my tummy,” he says with a hint of humour.

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“That’s why bespoke is really helpful. What I like about Wardrobe is I can decide on my cutting and they’ll do it for me. I can bring my cutting with different measurements and show them that I’d like it to look like this, and they’ll do it that way, not like other bespoke guys who stick to their own template. “With Wardrobe, I find that we’re in sync. They can do anything. They’re very sharp as well: they pay a lot of attention to detail for me. These guys know how to melt a size 35 waist into looking like a size 31 waist. It’s their cutting.” Sitting comfortably in an armchair on the first floor of Wardrobe’s spacious store in Bangsar, Dato’ Sri Jeffery seems to have a gift for putting people at ease. Just as apparent is the impression he gives of a man for which sophistication must not be compromised, a man who would make a formidable competitor and a fiercely loyal friend. On Enemies, Procrastination, and "Dressing Your Age" “I have no need for enemies. My philosophy in life is: don’t collect enemies. Don’t wake up every morning telling yourself, ‘I hate that person’. You can’t live like that. If I ever have a problem with someone, I’ll try to meet him and apologize, whether I’m wrong or right,” he shares nonchalantly. In almost the same breath, Dato’ Sri Jeffery is quick to add that he has a great team of workers at OEM Autoseats Malaysia, clearly implying the connection between having excellent staff and the zero-defect standard the company strives for. As difficult as that sounds, it’s easier to grasp when you understand the work ethic that Dato’ Sri Jeffery brings to the table. “Once I start on something I’ve got to do, only a typhoon can stop me from finishing it. I also have this policy, what I can do tomorrow, I’ll finish today. If someone sends me an agreement and asks for me to get it back to them by the next week, I’ll send it back the next day,” he says. Inescapably, Dato Sri Jeffrey admits he has his share of critics. Ever since subscribing to bespoke wear in recent years, he repeats a common remark that he’s heard more than once; that is, to dress his age. “I’ve had people say to me that my way of dressing is too young for my age,” he says with amusement in his eyes and an almost sympathetic smile on his face.


“I haven’t found a single person—fat, thin, monstrouslooking, whatever—I haven’t found one person who has looked into that mirror and said ‘I don’t look good.’” “I tell them, ‘if you want to dress like an old man, that’s your business. You can use the long arm, with a pen in your pocket, and walk around listlessly. That really is your business.’ How I dress is to please myself.” Living Long and Healthy His unapologetic style sense and stoic demeanour aside, it’s easy to see that Dato’ Sri Jeffrey dresses for himself, but lives for his family. Eight years ago, he started becoming more health-conscious, in the same year that his first grandchild was born. As the grandfather of two says: “After looking at my grandchildren, I said to myself, ‘I’d like to be around when they get married’. I’ve reduced my weight, and I work out every day for 50 minutes like clockwork. No excuses.” Dato’ Sri Jeffrey insists that in business, there is very little philosophy you can count on, but three traits he swears by are this: honesty, loyalty, and sincerity. He insists they have served him well in business and in life, and that they’ll do the same for young people who are willing to adopt the right attitude. His ongoing attitude on what a great suit can do, it would seem, can be summed up quite aptly: “The clothes I make have improved my image. If you go out feeling a million bucks, people may look at you and say you look odd, but who cares? I feel nice in my clothes. That’s the most important thing.”

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CORPORATE SERVICES BY PRIVATO

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At Wardrobe, we offer a corporate service for your organisation’s dressing needs. Aptly called Privato, we are able to customise garments that will profile a well-crafted professional look for your staff. Complete with your company’s logo and corporate colours, through Privato, we aim to project a more stylish objective to your corporate identity. We cater to the needs of a wide range of industries, requirements and budgets with your preferred designs in flexible quantities. Our Privato clientele stand to benefit from a complimentary two-hour group image consultation session held on-site. Through this session, we teach participants from your company to project

professionalism by being well groomed. The session presents key topics which will include type of suits and jackets and how to wear them, understanding body shapes, how to create a professional image, and how to choose accessories. In addition, by ordering in larger quantities, your company will be able to enjoy an attractive corporate pricing of up to 20% off. You can secure your appointment by calling Isaac Hor at 012-909 0198 or emailing privato@wardrobe.com.my. No additional outdoor tailoring charges will be incurred. For more information, please log onto http://wardrobe.com. my/privato/ corporate-services/.

COMPANIES WE HAVE HAD THE HONOUR OF SERVING…

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FASHION

BE BOLD

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BOLD MOVEMENT EXPERIENCE COMFORT AND STYLE NO MATTER HOW YOU MOVE.

Pin Head Blue Single Pleat Trousers with Side Adjusters; RM850 Fabric by Vitale Barberis Canonico

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Aqua Green Linen Shirt, RM450 By Wardrobe Charcoal Gray Single Pleat Trousers with Side Adjusters, RM800 Fabric by Vitale Barberis Canonico

Berber Tents

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Single-breasted 3-Piece Suit,RM4,360 Fabric by Vitale Barberis Canonico Pure Cotton Classic Collar Shirt with Barrel Cuffs, RM580; Silk Plaid Necktie, RM725; Silk Hand Rolled Edge Pocket Square, RM180 By Wardrobe 6 4 wardrobe


Single-breasted Two Button Pin Head Blue Suit, RM3,500 Fabric by Vitale Barberis Canonico Semi Spread Collar White Cotton Shirt with Barrel Cuffs, RM480; Silk Necktie, RM1,170; Cotton Pocket Square, RM130 By Wardrobe

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Single-breasted Two Button Pin Head Blue Suit, RM3,500 Fabric by Vitale Barberis Canonico Semi Spread Collar White Cotton Shirt with Barrel Cuffs, RM480; Silk Necktie, RM1,170; Cotton Pocket Square, RM130 By Wardrobe

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Single-breasted Two Button Pin Head Blue Suit, RM3,500 Fabric by Vitale Barberis Canonico Semi Spread Collar White Cotton Shirt with Barrel Cuffs, RM480; Silk Necktie, RM1,170; Cotton Pocket Square, RM130 By Wardrobe

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Spread Collar Pure Cotton Shirt with Barrel cuffs, RM480; Linen Hand Rolled Edge Pocket Square, RM180 By Wardrobe

PHOTOGRAPHY CHUAN LOOI/YIPIEYAYA STUDIOS ART DIRECTION SHIRLEY CHIA MAKEUP RAY LIM HAIR MAVIS ANG MODELS RAFAEL BARBOSA ROSARIO, MARISSA PARRY, CHRISTINE & MICHELLE FROM MOVIMENTO SIMPLES DE CAPOEIRA MALAYSIA

Single-breasted Windowpane Sports Jacket, RM2,600 Fabric by Vitale Barberis Canonico


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HIDE &

Sempione Canvas Weekender Bag in Olive Green and Dark Hemp. Made in Tuscany, Italy from preserved cotton fabrics and top quality “vegetable-tannery” leather with antioxidant/ anti-rust treated metallic details. RM5,830 By Wardrobe

SLEEK

THE FINISHING TOUCHES THAT NO MAN (OR HIS BEST FRIEND) SHOULD BE WITHOUT.

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Silk Cerulean Dotted Pocket Square, RM180 Cotton Black Floral Pocket Square, RM150 Cotton Blue Floral Pocket Square, RM150 Cotton Red Floral Pocket Square, RM150 Silk Red Ornamental Paisley Pocket Square, RM180 Cotton White Floral Pocket Square, RM150 Silk Blue Oriental Motifs Pocket Square, RM180 All Pocket Squares come with Hand-rolled Edges. By Wardrobe 72 wardrobe


Silk Red Ornamental Paisley Pocket Square with Handrolled Edges, RM180 By Wardrobe

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Wardrobe’s 1930s Ivory Floral & Houndstooth Necktie This 82-year-old art deco vintage necktie is made out of American cotton with Italian houndstooth pattern accent fabric. Wardrobe’s 1960s Sage Botanical & Wheat Heather Necktie This 52-year-old floral printed necktie is made out of 1960’s American cotton with Irish linen accent fabric. Wardrobe’s 1940s Yellow Floral & Wheat Heater Necktie This fabric is 75 years of age and made from yellow floral fabric from the American Midwest and was created in the early 1940s with Irish linen accent fabric. Wardrobe’s 1930s Botanical & Wheat Heater Necktie This fabric is 82 years of age and made from 1930s coloured botanical print fabric from the UK with Irish linen accent fabric. Wardrobe’s 1950s Blue & White Tropical Necktie This fabric of 62 years of age was made out of printed tropical fabric from Latvia in the 1950s with mini striped American cotton accent fabric.

All tie fabric are unused (not repurposed) and sourced from antique style dealers and auctions. All priced at RM560. All by Wardrobe 74 wardrobe


Sempione Briefcase in Olive Green. Moderately sized briefcase handcrafted in Italy from canvas and super soft pebble-textured Brandy leather with waterproof, stain-resistant and ripstop lining. RM5,250 By Wardrobe

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Berber Tents

Silk Bow Tie in Maroon, RM180; Twill Bow Tie in Black, RM230; Twill Silk Cummerbund in Black, RM350; Silk Cummerbund in White, RM310; Silk Cummerbund in Maroon, RM310 By Wardrobe 76 wardrobe


Sempione Suit Bag in Olive Green. Entirely handcrafted by Italian artisan from canvas and special treated cotton from Biella, Italy with “tumbled leather� finishing that ages beautifully over time. RM2,970 By Wardrobe

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Italian Artisan Handmade Leather Belt in Blue Denim, RM930; Italian Artisan Handmade Lether Belt in Miele/Honey, RM930 Italian Artisan Handmade Leather Belt in Nero/Black, RM930 By Wardrobe 78 wardrobe


Seven-Fold Geometric Necktie in Black, RM1,170 By Kiton

PHOTOGRAPHY SOON LAU/SHOW UP PICTURES ART DIRECTION PENNY CHEE & ELLYN YEO

STYLING BY SARAH SAW MODELS IN ORDER OF APPEARANCE: BELLE, POPPY AND LEELOO

Brown Single-breasted Wool Sport Coat, RM2,600 Cotton Red Floral Pocket Square with Hand-rolled Edges, RM150 By Wardrobe

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SUIT

YOURSELF UP YOUR WORK WEAR GAME.

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On Luka: 100% Cotton Teal Checked Single Breasted 2-Button Sports Jacket, RM4,560; 100% Wool Worsted Navy Blue Trousers, RM3,150 By Holland & Sherry 100% Bengal Cotton Arctic Blue Striped Shirt, RM1,100 By Tessitura Monti Basil Green Wool Necktie, RM360 By Wardrobe

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On Hubert: 100% Wool Worsted Single Breasted 2-Button Sports Jacket with Patch Pocket in Pine Brown, RM5,300; 100% Cotton Aqua Green Trousers, RM3,090 By Holland & Sherry 100% Cotton Striped Oxford Blue Shirt, RM1,100 By Tessitura Monti Blue and Grey Repp Silk Necktie, RM360; Lime Green Floral Silk Hand Rolled Pocket Square, RM180 By Wardrobe

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On Hubert: 100% Wool Worsted Denim Blue Glen Plaid Single Breasted 2-Button Sports Jacket, RM4,400; 100% Cotton Navy Blue Trousers, RM3,090 By Holland & Sherry 100% Cotton Blush Pink Candy Checkered Shirt, RM950 By Tessitura Monti Blue & Brown Repp Wool Necktie, RM360; Blue Houndstooth with Mandarin Frame Linen Pocket Square, RM180 By Wardrobe

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On Luka: 100% Cotton Off White and Pink Glen Plaid Single Breasted Wool Sports Coat, RM7,100; 100% Pine Brown Cotton Trousers, RM3,090 By Holland & Sherry 100% Bengal Cotton Merlot Red Shirt, RM950 By Tessitura Monti Berry Red Silk Tie, RM270; Navy Blue Oriental Silk Pocket Square, RM180 By Wardrobe

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On Hubert (right): Dorian Grey Super 140s Merino Worsted Wool Single Breasted 2-piece Suit, RM7,850 By Holland & Sherry 100% Bengal Cotton Navy Blue Shirt, RM1,100 By Tessitura Monti Oxford Blue Necktie, RM360; Black & White Floral Cotton Pocket Square with Rolled Edges, RM180 By Wardrobe On Luka (left): Navy Blue Worsted and Cashmere Windowpane Single Breasted, RM8,550; Charcoal Grey Super 140s Worsted Wool Trousers, RM2,550 By Holland & Sherry 100% Gingham Cotton Lilac Shirt, RM1,100 By Tessitura Monti Grey Dotted Silk Necktie, RM360; Maroon Paisley Silk Pocket Square with Rolled Edges, RM180 By Wardrobe wardrobe 89


On Luka: Navy Blue Super 120s Worsted Pinstripe Single Breasted 2-Piece Suit, RM7,840 By Holland & Sherry 100% Cotton Sky Blue Plaid Shirt, RM1,100 By Tessitura Monti Charcoal Grey Dotted Silk Necktie, RM360 By Wardrobe

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On Luka: Black & White 100% Wool Worsted Hounstooth Single Breasted 2-Piece Suit, RM8,450 By Holland & Sherry 100% Cotton Blue Plaid Shirt, RM1,100 By Tessitura Monti Navy Blue Wool Necktie, RM360; White Cotton Pocket Square with Hand Rolled Edges, RM180 By Wardrobe wardrobe 91


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On Hubert: 100% Cotton Blue Single Breasted 2-Piece Suit, RM8,400 By Holland & Sherry 100% Cotton White Shirt, RM1,100 By Tessitura Monti

PHOTOGRAPHY CHUAN LOOI/YIPPIEYAYA STUDIOS ART DIRECTION SHARMINI M. RETHINASAMY & LIM FANG HENG MAKEUP RAY LIM HAIR FONG WEI LOON MODELS HUBERT FROM ANDREWS MODEL & LUKA S FROM ATTITUDE MODELS LOCATION ILHAM TOWER, KUALA LUMPUR

Brown and Blue Checkered Silk Necktie, RM2,700; Linen Blue Houndstooth with Mandarin Frame Pocket Square, RM180 By Wardrobe

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GET

WED

STYLES FROM THE NUPTIALS RIGHT UP TO THE AFTER-PARTY.

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On John (extreme right): Double-breasted Pure Silk Dinner Jacket, RM9,830. Fabric Black Tie Elite-Luxury Ceremonial Wear, HS1497 By Holland & Sherry Navy Blue Trousers with Braiding and High Twist Wool, RM2,850. 100% Cotton Dinner Shirt with French Cuffs, RM480. Navy Silk Bow Tie, RM230. Silk Hand-rolled Pocket Square, RM180. Dinner Shirt Studs, RM230 By Wardrobe

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On Faiz: Floral Navy Blue Pure Silk Double-breasted Shawl Collar Dinner Jacket, RM6,490; Fabric Black Tie Elite-Luxury Ceremonial Wear, HS1497; Black Trousers in High Twist Wool, RM2,850; Fabric Cape Horn Lightweight, HS 1723 By Holland & Sherry 100% Egyptian Cotton Shirt with French Cuffs, RM1,100. Fabric I Dogi, Card 22 By Tessitura Monti Navy Silk Bow Tie, RM230. Silk Pocket Square, RM399 By Kiton

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On Shan: Single-breasted Cream Pure Silk Shawl Collar Dinner Jacket, RM6,490; Fabric Black Tie Elite Luxury Ceremonial Wear HS1497; Dark Brown Trousers with Braiding and High Twist Wool, RM2,850. Fabric from Cape Horn Lightweight, HS 1723 By Holland & Sherry 100% Cotton Dinner Shirt with French Cuffs, RM680; Floral Silk Bow Tie and Cummerband, RM945; Silk Hand-rolled Pocket Square, RM245; Dinner Shirt Studs, RM230 By Wardrobe wardrobe 97


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On John: Single-breasted Navy Peak lapel Dinner Jacket, RM3,110; Fabric Super 10’s Pure Wool By Vitale Barberis Canonico Navy Blue Trousers with Braiding and High Twist Wool, RM2,850; Fabric Cape Horn Lightweight, HS 1723 By Holland & Sherry 100% Cotton Dinner Shirt with French Cuffs, RM480; Navy Silk Bow Tie, RM230; Silk Hand-rolled Pocket Square, RM150; Dinner Shirt Studs, RM230 By Wardrobe

STYLING BY SARAH SAW PHOTOGRAPHY CHUAN LOOI/YIPIEYAYA STUDIOS ART DIRECTION PENNY CHEE AND ELLYN YEO MODELS SHAN RATNAM, FAIZ FUAD, JOHN OH & RUBINI SAMBANTHAN HAIR MAVIS ANG MAKEUP RAY LIM BRIDAL GOWNS CELEST THOI VENUE IKKI BAR, KUALA LUMPUR

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On Shan (right): Double-breasted Pure Wool Dinner Jacket, RM3,160. Fabric Super 110’s Pure Wool By Vitale Barberis Canonico Dark Brown Trousers with Braiding and High Twist Wool, RM2,850. Fabric Cape Horn Lightweight, HS1723 By Holland & Sherry 100% Cotton Dinner Shirt French Cuffs, RM680. Silk Bow Tie, RM230. Dinner Shirt Studs, RM230 By Wardrobe Silk Pocket Square, RM399 By Kiton On Faiz (left): Single-breasted Peak Lapel Dinner Jacket in Brown, RM2,840. Fabric Super 120’s Pure Wool By Vitale Barberis Canonico Black Trousers in High Twist Wool, RM2,850. Fabric Cape Horn Lightweight, HS1723 By Holland & Sherry 100% Cotton Dinner Shirt with French Cuffs, RM680. Silk Bow Tie, RM230. Silk Pocket Square, RM180. Dinner Shirt Studs, RM230 By Wardrobe wardrobe 101


PROFILE

Dressing The Man THE PASSION AND DRIVE THESE FIVE TECH GURUS HAVE FOR THEIR WORK IS REFLECTED IN THEIR PERSONAL STYLE AND ARE IN SYNC WITH THE SAME VALUES AND PASSION WARDROBE UPHOLDS. WORDS BY SHARMINI M.RETHINASAMY

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Azran Osman-Rani, Investor and Advisor to Iflix Malaysia

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“All my suits are tailormade because I think the single most important aspect is that it is purposefully fitted just for you; when you wear it, you no longer notice its presence.”

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s chief executive of a business that spans across all of Asia, Azran Osman-Rani – investor and advisor of an internet television video-on-demand service – prides himself as being the sort of person who loves new challenges. “When I take something on, I take it on 100 percent,” he explains. “I want to explore the limits of my abilities, whether it’s my physical or mental abilities.” When it comes to his personal life, Azran embraces challenges, evident through his commitment to the gruelling Ironman competition. “I participate in the Ironman Triathlon,” he shares. “It involves a 3.8km ocean swim, followed by a 180km bike ride, and then a 42km full marathon.” Azran took part in his first triathlon in 2013 and has never looked back, having competed in several since. “If there were two concepts that have been a big part of my life, they would be serendipity and the other, purposefulness and deliberateness,” Azran says. He finds that the link between being, looking and achieving one’s personal best comes down to being deliberate and purposeful. One has to be consciously authentic; for Azran, whether he’s in a t-shirt and jeans or in a tailored suit, he is the same person. “It is that same Azran who is curious and purposeful and determined. So, when I do wear suits, it is important that they project that realism and authenticity. All my suits are tailor-made because I think the single most important aspect is that it is purposefully fitted just for you; when you wear it, you no longer notice its presence.” Azran adds, “A man is known not so much for what he says but for what he stands for. For me, it is a combination of curiosity and bravery to take on new things, as well as to keeping it real and being authentic to yourself. It is also about just being playful and enjoying our presence here in this world – that will represent who you are and who it is that is showcased to the world.”

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Patrick Grove, Group CEO of the Catcha Group

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atrick Grove, Group CEO of Catcha Group, attends an average of 15 meetings a day. “The meetings take anywhere from 30 to 45 minutes, so I actually just don’t have the time to go look for a suit.” Having embarked on an adventurous rollercoaster ride when he started Catcha Group in 1999 when he was just 24 years old, Patrick hasn’t had much time to slow down and take a breather. He credits his busy lifestyle to being an entrepreneur in not only the most exciting region in the world – Southeast Asia – but also in one of the most dynamic industries ever, the internet. “One of the great things about working in the streets is that you can get away without wearing a suit,” he shares. At the same time, Patrick believes suits are an essential item in a man’s wardrobe, and that they should be something special, something grand. “Suits are a necessary purchase for important occasions,” he explains. “I wear suits to a wedding, or whenever there’s a gala or an investor conference, which I attend way too many times! I love having a bespoke suit so that when I go to any of these events, I can feel like a million dollars.” Bespoke suits are important to Patrick. Achieving the correct fit and look enables a CEO like him to achieve his desired image while still being comfortable. “A bespoke suit is really important to me because it is comfortable and tailored exactly to how I want to look, making me feel confident, great and ready to go out there and take over the world!” he says. However, due to his busy schedule, he does not often have time to shop. “I would love to spend the whole day trying them out, but unfortunately I cannot. So, you know what is great service? It is when they come to you and you know you are getting the best advice on the spot in the fastest amount of time possible – that to me is a gift from heaven.” When asked what defines a man, Patrick had this to say, “Life is so finite and we only have a certain amount of years on this planet. I think what really defines a man is what you do with those years and the legacy that you leave behind.”

“A bespoke suit is really important to me because it is comfortable and tailored exactly to how I want to look, making me feel confident, great and ready to go out there and take over the world!” 106 wardrobe


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Lee Ching Wei, Co-Founder and CEO of iMoney Group

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ee Ching Wei founded iMoney after a stint as a financial advisor in Australia. “I figured why not do the same thing, but on a much bigger scale.” As a successful businessman who oversees the company he founded, Ching Wei does not have the luxury of free time, and he approaches it in a reflective manner. “It is not renewable, so I try to utilise time as best as I can.” Whilst it is typical for so much time to be allocated to work, it is equally important to Ching Wei that he sets aside some time to wind down and relax. “I try and sit by the pool and read a book to recharge.” But that is not the only thing he does. Ching Wei also regularly invests his time in helping people who really need it. He considers it giving back to society and to people who are less fortunate, helping out whenever there is a need. He does this by mentoring startups and nurturing their growth. “It is really fulfilling and worthwhile, especially when you see projects through to the end. It is one of those things that if you give enough attention, time and dedication, and if the timing is right, it will grow into something meaningful.” He likens the process to nature, adding “It is just like a tree – it starts with a seed, which grows into a giant sequoia after many years.”

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Ching Wei’s personal style is casual and relaxed. Nevertheless, when the occasion calls for something more formal, he turns to the experts. “When there is a need to dress up and to look good, I want to know that I can turn to someone who understands how to make me feel confident. When you wear a suit and it fits well, you feel confident. I think you can only get that if you have one that is tailor-made for your body. Quality is really what I would look for ultimately.” On what defines a man, Ching Wei shares, “I think every man is different. There is really no one definition; as long as you feel confident, you know you are honest.”


“When you wear a suit and it fits well, you feel confident. I think you can only get that if you have one that is tailor-made for your body.�

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Joel Neoh, Founder of Fave and Kfit

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young self-starter, Joel Neoh began his first company when he was just 20 years old. He started social news network SAYS.com, and quickly followed with an e-commerce company that was eventually acquired by Groupon. Showing no signs of slowing down, he then went on to form Fave (formerly Groupon Malaysia) and KFIT, an online-to-offline platform that connects local fitness, beauty and wellness businesses with consumers. Outside of work, Joel is constantly on a path of self-discovery. “At work, I am really focused doing what I do. But out of work, I am always exploring and discovering, wanting to try different things I have never done before,” he shares. “In the process of learning, there are moments when you celebrate success, acquiring knowledge and feeling good about yourself, and that is really important.” That focus and desire for knowledge serves him well in his personal life too – Joel is an avid rock climber. He has been climbing for three years and has been competing professionally for two. He has tried flying a plane, and even dabbled in pottery. “I really enjoyed it and felt that the piece I made was very personal as I had created it using my bare hands.” With his lifestyle of being constantly on the go and exploring, Joel’s personal style is mostly casual, spending most of the time in t-shirts and jeans. He saves the suit-wearing for special events and meetings. “A made-to-measure suit is something that is very special. It is a personal experience,” he explains. “There are a lot of different choices to make when you want to create the perfect suit. What I look for in a suit is something that is more classic in terms of style and has got a good cut. I think what is most important is that it fits my own style and the occasion that I am wearing it for.” Joel reckons a man is defined by how he focuses on his goals and aspirations. “He must also be very flexible in accepting differing opinions and perspectives as well as try new things.”

“A made-tomeasure suit is something that is very special. It is a personal experience.”

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“All my clothes have a snug fit, and I think that is what makes the clothes look really good; that is what makes a person look really good.”

Khailee Ng, Managing Partner of 500 Startups

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or a living, Khailee Ng finds the top entrepreneurs in the world to give them money to make their dreams come true. “I primarily describe myself as a creative soul,” he shares. “I have always been looking at everything I do as a created act and so when I chanced upon the internet, the world became my canvas.” When he realised the potential of the world wide web, Khailee created group buying website Groupsmore (which was eventually sold to Groupon) and media company SAYS.com. Eventually, Khailee joined 500 Startups, a powerful venture capital vehicle that deploys money to entrepreneurs around the world. He is now a managing partner and takes care of the Southeast Asian fund. “To date, we’ve done 1700 investments in 50 countries, and I think we are just warming up.” Outside of work, Khailee’s top priority is his health and makes sure he is always in fit form. “I am actually a vegan, so I do not take any cream, cheese, milk or honey,” he says. “I prefer to do body weight workouts as I can be anywhere; I do not need a gym nor do I need any equipment. Even a park will suffice as I am just doing pull ups, pushups, burpees or running up the stairs.” He even schedules meetings within the same area so that he can run from one meeting to another, get a good workout and save on transportation. Khailee’s sense of style is functional and extremely high quality. “It has to reflect my personality,” he says. “I do not wear suits often but when the need arises, I do. My work requires me to be very authentic and very presentable to people. So, I try to look for softer materials like linen. I want to make sure that it can be casual yet smart and serious.” To achieve his ideal image, Khailee ensures his clothes suit his body shape and size. “All my clothes have a snug fit, and I think that is what makes the clothes look really good; that is what makes a person look really good.” Khailee feels that a man is defined by his ability to weather storms. “I would describe the masculine energy as being a boat in a storm. The world is chaotic – just like a storm – and amidst all these emotions, you have to make decisions; you have to absorb, inspect, analyse, understand and decide, so your boat will get through safely. Now that is masculinity.” 112 wardrobe


Watch Wardrobe Dressing The Man videos on the Wardrobe website by scanning this QR code.

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LIFESTYLE

Image by iStockphoto

Foreign Affair

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T M PE RIC BO HA RF K RG S O R AC H I W CH M TIV NI O RD AN AN E HA S BY G TE AE S G ED T R DA . O OD IVE RR TH YN N I EN E AM TS CA RO IC H SS EY AD S UR /P A A RE A N N D CÁ SS D E NS AS TR VE U SO AC N M P E C IA K O RS TI TO RE PO O N /T FI PE RT H ND R S E IN F C TE O OR AR UT M A RV IE HO AN MA W PE W CE. KE O PL I T W OV S E E E CH TA R, PH O AR KE WI TO AC T H T H G RA TE E PH R Y

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he Huracán Performante is based on the already super-quick Huracán supercar, but in order to make it capable of astonishing lap times - it recently broke the production car record at Nurburgring in Germany - the Raging Bull brand has gone to town. As is often the case with such machines, there’s been plenty of weight saving. The Performante is down 40kg on the standard car, with the redesigned exhaust system contributing a large chunk of that. However, the real headline is Lamborghini’s next-level active aerodynamic package. Dubbed ALA - Aerodinamica Lamborghini Attive - it manipulates the air flowing over, under and through the car to stick it to the road. In high speed corners you can genuinely feel it at work. LOOKS AND IMAGE The standard Huracán is no shrinking violet, but beside the Performante it almost looks subdued. Even standing still, it looks ready to race. The prominent rear wing perched behind the engine hatch, the pointed front nose with its chunky front splitter and the angular cab-forward design combine to give the impression it’s ready to pounce. Inside, the VW Group influence is immediately apparent. The switchgear feels solid and even the more intricate hexagonal flourishes have clearly been built to last. This car has not been put together with comfort in mind, but the standard seats are supportive without being so solid your back will throw in the towel on a long trip. SPACE AND PRACTICALITY In its role as a track-focused supercar, the Huracán Performante gives little regard to space and practicality - almost everything that doesn’t contribute to the act of going quickly is removed. However, in defence of this 21st Century engineering marvel, it’s not as impractical as you might think. Lift the bonnet and there’s the same 100-litre ‘frunk’ that’s in the garden variety Huracán, which will fit a few shopping bags or luggage for a weekend away. Meanwhile, the cabin’s excellent ergonomics mean the balance between feeling snugly

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enclosed in a race car doesn’t come at the expense of adjustability. The driving position is excellent and the reach and rake adjustments on the steering wheel make it easy to get comfortable. BEHIND THE WHEEL We tested the car at the famous Imola circuit in Italy before taking it out in to the hills surrounding the circuit. On track, the Huracán Performante feels at home, especially at such a high-speed circuit where the aero work can really be appreciated - in quick curves you can sense the car is being pushed into the road by the air it’s punching a hole through, rewarding commitment with near-endless grip. When cornering, the active aerodynamics are altered so that there’s high downforce over the wheels inside the corner and low downforce on the outside to improve turn-in. It can also increase downforce under braking to help slow the car, and reduce it when accelerating on the straight to improve top speed. The car’s brain is constantly making calculations and adjustments - it’s quite remarkable. Despite the race car-like looks and violent performance, it’s surprisingly forgiving on road and track and has the ability to make you look like a hero behind the wheel. And yet it still takes concentration to get the most out of it. When you finally reach the upper echelons of its performance, it’s a genuinely emotional experience.


VALUE FOR MONEY It’s hard to consider any car that costs in excess of £200,000 being good value for money, especially when a Porsche 911 GT3 costs nearly £100,000 less and is utterly brilliant. But if you’re able to put such a vast sum of money down on a car, value almost becomes irrelevant - and you honestly can’t put a price on the way the Performante makes you feel. So, what do you get for your money? Inside, there’s plenty of soft Alcantara and racey bucket seats as standard, though ‘comfort’ seats can be used instead. The digital instrument binnacle is a delight, switching the information it shows depending on which drive mode you’re in, and incorporating the satnav seamlessly. For those who really want to splash the cash, the company’s Ad Personum personalisation programme allows near-infinite customisation.

“When cornering, the active aerodynamics are altered to improve turn-in”

FACTS AT A GLANCE Model: Lamborghini Huracán Performante Base price: £207,925 Engine: 5.2-litre V10 petrol Power: 631bhp Torque: 600Nm Max speed: 200mph+ 0-60mph: 2.7 seconds Economy: 21mpg Emissions: 314g/km

SHOULD YOU BUY ONE? Wealthy car enthusiasts will naturally be drawn to the Performante thanks to its 10-cylinder, naturally aspirated engine and frankly astonishing aerodynamic technology. Lamborghini says that because the car represents such a huge step for the market segment, it has seen a lot of customers that have traditionally bought from the company’s rivals putting down deposits.

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MOROCCAN MAGIC BEACHES OR DESERT, CIT Y OR MOUNTAINS - MOROCCO IS A DREAM DESTINATION WHATEVER YOUR FANCY. WORDS BY JENNIFER CHOO PHOTOGRAPHY ISTOCKPHOTO

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istoric and epic. Romantic and mysterious. Few countries have captured the imagination of travelers as the beautiful kingdom of Morocco. And it’s not hard to see why, within a land mass only slightly larger than California is a country of dazzling diversity Berber towns and oases rising out of the sands of the Sahara Desert; the majestic and occasionally snowcapped Atlas and Rif Mountains where trekking opportunities abound; plains which are home to the imperial walled cities of Marrakesh and Fez packed with labyrinthine alleyways and bustling souks; and finally, the windswept coastlines of the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, graced by the cultured capital of Rabat, the economic hub that is Casablanca and the faded libertine port of Tangier. Being the gateway to Northern Africa and located so close to Europe has made Morocco a crossroads for goods, ideas and people. Throughout its complex history, many cultures have passed through including Roman, French, Portuguese, Spanish and Muslim, all of which have left an enduring mark and created a fascinating mélange of Moorish and European influences. These have provided rich fodder for the inspiration of artists, authors and fashion designers. Tangier in particular was a haven for beat writers and poets like Jack Kerouac, Paul Bowles and William S. Burroughs (who made it the setting for Naked Lunch), all drawn by its then freewheeling “international zone”. The fashion world has also been mad for Morocco from the moment Yves Saint Laurent first set foot in Marrakech in 1966. His lifelong love affair with the country regularly found its way into his collections through his interpretations of typically Moroccan silhouettes like the caftan, djellaba (a hooded outer layer), and harem pants, and details like Berber-inspired embroidery and jewelry. The Algerian born designer eventually bought the Villa Majorelle and lived his later years in Marrakech where his ashes lie in the rose garden. As a playground for the rich and famous, the exoticism of Morocco combined with its international flavour has long been a draw and none so memorably captured as that iconic photograph of glamorous but doomed socialite Talitha Getty taken by Patrick Lichfield in 1969 on the rooftop of her Marrakesh palace. Winston Churchill and Alfred Hitchcock, Rita Hayworth and the Rolling Stones, Andy Warhol and Malcolm Forbes, are only some of the famous people who’ve been regular visitors through the years while today, Madonna, Kate Moss, Gerard Depardieu and Richard Branson all own villas in Morocco. The allure of Marrakesh as a destination for lavish parties remains undimmed and David Beckham famously chose to celebrate his 40th birthday there in 2015. A country of character and endless charm, we pick four unforgettable destinations in different environments and how to enjoy them in style. Marrakesh The fabled “Red City” of Marrakesh juxtaposes the glittering remains of sultans’ palaces, lavish gardens and the Old Town alongside a cool modern city. Like

Mick Jagger and Edith Wharton before you, allow yourself to get lost among the city’s intricate alleys and while the fantastical central square, Jemaa El Fna is unmissable and the north medina is a thriving network of souks and hagglers, a more refined “souk” is the lushly appointed gift shop at the El Fenne Hotel, where a curated selection of the Morocco’s best can be snapped up. Moroccan food-TV star Moha Fedal’s Dar Moha is a superb restaurant that occupies a plush 19th-century riad once owned by famous couturier Pierre Balmain. Marvel at the pool’s wonderful mosaic tiles in the garden while enjoying Moha’s inventive Moroccan cuisine. Those in the know frequent the art-deco Le Grand Café de la Poste for the best thé à la menthe (mint tea) and people watching in town. A perfect stop over after visiting Yves Saint Laurent’s lush Jardin Majorelle. The dreamiest place to stay is Amanjena, the first Aman resort in Africa. Although slightly out of town, the property is opulent setting of old Moorish pisé (earthen) buildings, homage to Berber villages and Moroccan-style Pavilions are nothing short of spectacular.

What to pack Spring and autumn are considered the best time to visit Marrakesh as temperatures are pleasantly warm. Being a city and a rather chic destination, the only question you should ask yourself when packing is what would James Bond wear (Morocco featured largely as a location for Spectre after all). For day, crisp cotton shirts over relaxed but tailored pants will beat the heat while a pair of sturdy leather sandals look polished and are comfortable enough for tackling those cobblestones. A Panama hat is also a good idea to keep the sun off your face. Evenings require a light jacket or summer suit especially if you’ll be wining and dining at Marrakesh’s smarter restaurants. Daniel Craig chose to wear an earthy palette but you can add a pop of colour via a silk tie or pocket square in Morroco’s traditional Zilig pattern.

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The Sahara The Sahara Desert is like nowhere else on earth and is both cinematic and an endless well of solitude. Erg Chigaga, some 56km southwest of M’Hamid, is the largest sand sea in Morocco and an awesome stretch of golden sand snaking along the horizon for 40km bordered to the north and south by mountain ridges. Whether by camel or 4WD, glamping options are available to make your Lawrence of Arabia dreams come true. Erg Chigaga Luxury Camp lies in the dunes, which climb to heights of 1,000 feet and offers 13 caidal tents described as ‘Berber tent outside, but palace inside.’ The Camp of Dar Ahlam on the other hand is a onenight experience as part of a longer stay at the elegant guesthouse of the same name in Skoura. This is Saharan chic at its finest and evenings are best spent contemplating the towering mounds of the Sahara in a Roorkhee chair while enjoying an aperitif (served on estate silver) before descending for dinner around the campfire.

What to pack Travel in the Sahara is best between October and April or early May when daytime temperatures are generally bearable (20-25°C). Linen will be your best friend in this brutal environment so pants and shirts in that fabric will protect your body while looking rather dashing. Think Count László Almásy in The English Patient. A sturdy pair of hiking boots will serve you well and top this with a typical Moroccan scarf that wraps around your head like a turban.

What to pack March to November are considered the best time of year for trekking but as in mountain regions anywhere, be prepared for quick changes in the weather. To ensure you’re not caught out, it’s wisest to pack layers of clothing to allow for subtle changes in temperature and a light raincoat just in case it rains. The High Atlas is still extremely traditional so respect this and avoid packing shorts. A sturdy and comfortable pair of hiking boots or trainers will ensure the only thing you bring back from your experience are good memories not blisters. Essaouira Known as the ‘Wind City of Africa’, Essaouira (pronounced ‘essa-weera’, or ‘es-Sweera’ in Arabic) is reputedly where Jimi Hendrix penned Castles Made of Sand. In truth, it was written long before Hendrix and Cat Stevens spent languid days in this beguiling coastal town whose historical ramparts and miles of golden sand are so photogenic that Game of Thrones has filmed here. True to its name the bracing wind attracts plenty of windsurfers although this a town is made for ambling through the Kasbah La Scala with its tangle of narrow alleyways; and teeming souks of the Medina (a UNESCO World Heritage Site); and the Mellah (the Jewish quarter). The souks here are less frantic than Marrakesh but if you’re not shopped out, pick up some local gnawa art at Gallery Damgaard opened in 1988 by Danish artist Frédéric Damgaard. As evening sets, make your way to La Licorne located along the fortress walls which serves some of the finest couscous, tagines and pastillas in town enjoyed by the likes of Monica Belluci and Vincent Cassel. Stay at Essaouira’s only Relais & Châteaux property, L’Heure Bleue Palais. Built in the 19th century as a palace for the city governor, the team have preserved the character and hospitality of a traditional grand Moroccan house.

IN MOROCCO IT’S POSSIBLE TO SEE THE ATLANTIC AND THE MEDITERRANEAN AT THE SAME TIME.

Atlas Mountains Morocco’s Atlas Mountains run from the Atlantic to the Sahara through the middle of the country and its harsh environment - baking hot in summer, snow-covered in winter – is homeland to the ancient Berbers who cultivate their crops in the fertile valleys. The High Atlas also attracts adventurous visitors, many of whom come to climb Jbel Toubkal, the highest peak in North Africa at 4,167m. Two particular attractions are the snaking road south to Taroudannt; and Imlil, Asni and Aremd, the Berber villages en route to Jbel Toubkal. But sights aren’t what the High Atlas is about – it’s the superlative views. Creature comforts aren’t exactly a priority here (there’s Marrakesh for that) but if luxury is your jam and you require a base, check into Morocco’s ne plus ultra of high-altitude luxury, Kasbah Tamadot which sits above the village of Asni. While the exterior sports the fairly austere vernacular, the interiors are an eclectic, opulent mish-mash of antiquities and furnishings from Southeast Asia, India, and North Africa. There is also the option of staying in one of nine Berber tents, which march up the edge of the valley ridge where the Kasbah sits, and overlook a deep river canyon.

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What to pack Its fierce coastal wind attracts windsurfers in April and November but the majority of visitors come here in spring and autumn. Essaouira was part of the hippy trail in the 60s and an easy breezy artsy vibe still persists. Days are best spent in a well fitted t-shirt or polo shirt and shorts, not unlike the louche elegance of Jude Law in the Talented Mr Ripley. This town likes to party and as dusk settles, shrug on a well-pressed button down poplin shirt and slacks with loafers. A light knit sweater worn slung casually over the shoulders is all you need if the night gets nippy.


Sahara Desert

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TEE TIME

PUT YOUR GOLF SKILLS TO TEST AT THE WORLD’S TOP GOLF COURSES. WORDS BY JABBY ROSE/CONSTANT CONTENT

SWILCAN BRIDGE, OLD COURSE AT ST ANDREWS LINKS, SCOTLAND

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ince the 15th century, people have fallen in love with the game of golf. Around the world, golf enthusiasts have created small slices of paradise on earth to honour the game. Playing at any of the courses on our list would be to walk in the footsteps of golf giants; it would also most likely be a once-in-a-lifetime experience for most golfers. But if you truly love the game, these courses should be at the top of your list. Pine Valley Golf Club, New Jersey, USA Pine Valley has 7,101 yards with a par 70 Hands down across the golfing universe, Pine Valley is clearly the leading golf course in the world, pound for pound. It is also consistently recognised by Golf Digest as No. 1 among the World’s Greatest Golf Courses. The architectural design was the brilliance of H.S. Colt, A.W. Tillinghast, George C. Thomas Jr. and Walter Travis, and each hole is meticulously designed to be extremely challenging. This is in part due to the suggestion of golf architect George Arthur Crump that players should use every club in the bag during a round of golf. Old Course at St. Andrews Links, Scotland Old Course has 6,721 yards with a par 72 St. Andrews is often called the home of golf because of the Old Course, widely considered to be the oldest in the world – golfers have played the game in this majestic location since the 15th century. The Hell Bunker and Swilcan Bridge within the course are well known worldwide, and today, the seven courses (including the Old Course) in St. Andrews are open to the public. Augusta National Golf Club, Georgia, USA Augusta has 7,435 yards with a par 72 The official host of the annual Masters Tournament, Augusta has made frequent appearances on many lists of notable golf courses since its opening in 1933. Today, the course features the worldfamous Amen Corner – so named for the fantastic feats of golf performed there over the years. Members of this elite private club are recognised by their green jacket.

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MUIRFIELD, GULLANE, SCOTLAND

Cypress Point Club, Pebble Beach, California, USA Cypress Point has 6,524 yards with a par 72 This private club is nestled on the Monterey Peninsula, offering awe-inspiring views of the Pacific Ocean. The design of the course takes advantage of the natural terrain, venturing into the beautiful Del Monte forest for the first nine holes, before arriving at the coastline for the final nine. Some say this is the most exclusive course in the world as playing a round here is only possible by invitation from a member. Royal County Down Golf Club, Newcastle, Northern Ireland Royal County Down has 7,183 yards with a par 71 Royal County Down’s Championship Link was designed by Old Tom Morris, and first opened in 1889. Soon after it opened, the course began to host international tournaments, including the Irish Open, the Curtis Cup, the Walker Cup, the British Amateur and the Palmer Cup. The course is situated in the picturesque Murlough Nature Reserve and overlooks the picturesque Mountains of Mourne and shores of Dundrum Bay.

MUIRFIELD, GULLANE, SCOTLAND

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Muirfield, Gullane, Scotland Muirfield has 7,245 yards with a par 71

MUIRFIELD’S COURSE IS DESIGNED AS TWO CIRCLES TO BE PLAYED CLOCKWISE AND COUNTER CLOCKWISE, ENSURING A DIFFERENT WIND DIRECTION AT EVERY HOLE.

Muirfield is the official home of the world’s oldest golf club, The Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers (HCEG). Muirfield is a classic links course, with one small exception – instead of the usual course layout of bringing you away from and back again to the clubhouse, Muirfield’s course is designed as two circles to be played clockwise and counter clockwise, ensuring a different wind direction at every hole. Pebble Beach Golf Links, Pebble Beach, California, USA Pebble Beach has 6,828 yards with a par 72 With breathtaking views of Carmel Bay and the Pacific Ocean, this course on the Monterey Peninsula was the first of its kind to use the ocean as a hazard. Its figure-eight course layout ensures the coastline is present as much as possible, and playing right on the windy ocean cliffs present a challenge for even the most seasoned players. The course is open to the public, but only to those who are prepared to part with approximately $500 in fees. Walk in the footsteps of legends and experience the game’s rich history first-hand by visiting these magnificent courses. Each one is uniquely designed and mastered to provide superior gameplay and stunning landscapes.

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THE MALE FASHION ICON THOUGH ST YLE IS ETERNAL, FASHION ICONS ARE MADE. HERE’S WHAT YOU CAN LEARN FROM CL ASSIC AND MODERN-DAY CELEBRIT Y ST YLE ICONS. WORDS BY REMI DUTTA

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“Sly, suave and immaculately dressed, regardless of how many glasses of bourbon he’s helped himself to, Don Draper reminded us that nothing is more important than looking put together.”

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Classic moddish suit on modern style icon Alexander Skarsgård.

ike many other areas of life, a sense of style is not something one is born with. It’s something one learns, through trial, error and many a fashion faux pas. What works and what doesn’t are discovered through observation and experimentation. If you’re lucky, you escape with a few incriminating images buried somewhere on Facebook and a black bin bag laden with bad wardrobe choices destined for the charity shop. If you’re not so fortunate, you’re probably Justin Timberlake. His wardrobe malfunctions may have been overshadowed by a certain Superbowl style boob, but who can forget the top-to-toe denim eyesore or outlandish fedora he inflicted on an innocent public? Still, he survived and flourished. With a fashion line of his own, some of us even buy clothes from the once Maggi-haired Mickey Mouse Clubber. That’s because style is a craft. You hone in as you develop your own personal sense of style, and understand what works on you and what doesn’t. Which is different from fashion and being fashionable. Because style, unlike fashion, isn’t a fad which comes and goes often in cycles (hello again, the 90s). Style is eternal. And once you’ve mastered its art, the world will sit up and take notice – in a good way. So where does a man who doesn’t have access to a star stylist learn from? As in the animal world, we emulate the characteristics of successful alpha males until through sheer grit and determination, we find ourselves an alpha male too. In this instance, it helps not to look to the male fashion model who has been genetically engineered by the gods, fine tuned by a diet of lean meats and cruciferous vegetables, and chiselled to perfection by endless hours of exercise. Instead, turn to the real man, and by that we mean celebrity. Because if we said “that stylish rogue Jay from Bangsar” that would not be helpful to you.

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In a way, the modern male has 50s throwback and fictional ad man Don Draper to thank for our rekindled love affair with the sartorial. Sly, suave and immaculately dressed, regardless of how many glasses of bourbon he’s helped himself to, through Jon Hamm, Draper reminded us that nothing is more important than looking put together. The clothes maketh the man, as they say, and few items of clothing work harder than a finely cut suit and perfectly fitted staples. To take a leaf out of classic Hollywood, that golden era of style, when men were men and all that other un-PC bravado, look to the brat pack’s more recognisable members: Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, and Sammy David Jr. Three very different men who often appeared to wear identical suits, that’s how sharply cut their suits were. Even in the present’s less formal age, the tailored suit remains the foundation for any modern man’s wardrobe, and can be dialled up or down as the occasion sees fit, with a contrast colour or patterned shirt or with a buttoned down knitted polo shirt as favoured by Milanese gentlemen. No one does this classic look better than George Clooney, whose sartorial reinvention has taken him from the mullets and white tees of hit TV shows Roseanne and Facts of Life, to the shorn silver fox in Italianmade finery we now witness on the silver screen. Of course it’s all dandy zipping about Lake Como, but what of hot and humid Southeast Asian weather? Outside of our overly air-conditioned offices in the sky, how does a man rock a suit and not look like he’s attempting some kind of fashion self harm? For one, forget the seasons. For firm followers of fashion this can seem to go against the very laws of nature given that international fashion weeks are based on the tilt of the earth’s rotational axis. But unless you spend considerable time in fairer climes, it makes much better sense to pretend that Autumn and Winter don’t exist and Spring and Summer are forever. Forgo the heavy fabrics and dour colours. Instead embrace lighter materials and besides the classics – black, grey, pinstripes, tan and dark blue – embrace a softer colour palette like (deep breath) powdery pastels. Throw off the jacket and pair tailored slacks or indigo denim jeans with a well-fitted tee. Though both wore it differently, the late, great Marlon Brando and James Dean made the look imminently bankable and until this day, unexpectedly timeless. Chiwetel Ejiofor demonstrating the power of an understated but well-tailored suit.

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Cuba Gooding Jr opts for a navy tux as opposed to a black one.

“Clever tailoring can have a similar effect to a nip and tuck, with a lot less bloodshed involved.” What we choose to wear is not just a matter of weather, it’s a matter of culture. Outside of traditional garb, ours is not a formal suit-wearing culture, and thanks to the rapid rise of nontraditional professions globally, the world is, for lack of a better phrase, following suit as smart casual increasingly becomes the accepted new office uniform. And yet despite this a tailored wardrobe is more important than ever, because without it, it would be all too easy to slip into the realms of unstructured shabby chic. And we are civilised men, are we not? Take for example, Bond. James Bond. With a penchant for exotic locales with palm fringed beaches, Her Majesty’s international man of mystery must move effortlessly between tuxedo and swimming trunks without looking sloppy. Epitomising 007 more than any other actor to date, Sean Connery did this with panache, carrying off a pair of Bermuda shorts and unbuttoned crisp cotton shirt with dignity intact thanks to perfect tailoring (and Pinewood’s hard working wardrobe department). Of course, they don’t make them like they used to and until recently, celebrity style icons were, with a few exceptions, limited to Caucasian males who, like Connery, possessed a height and build that were significantly different to that of the average Asian male. Fortunately, the times are a changing, and in the last decade the increasing diversity seen on the big and small screens has provided us with a variety of celebrity style icons we can relate to.

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Amongst the first Asian style icons Asian men could turn to were actors Chow Yuen Fatt and Ken Watanabe, both of whom cut a dashing swathe through Hong Kong and Japanese cinema respectively before crossing over into Hollywood stardom. Yet, at six feet tall neither exemplify the average Asian build. In contrast, The Walking Dead’s Steven Yeun, comedian Aziz Ansari, actor Riz Ahmed and even F1 driver Lewis Hamilton are much closer in stature to the average male. Their suit game is strong, but even they play it safe in comparison to Zayn Malik. Though it galls us to call on One Direction for fashion tips, following the band’s split and the boys’ coming of age, maturing from teeny bopper into modelcourting manhood, there’s no denying that Zayn stands out having emerged as the unlikely modern style maverick. His suited options are far from conventional, and have been known to push fashion boundaries – and buttons – with their pastel colours, short leg length and attention grabbing sock choice. But it’s not just his chutzpah that makes it work. Ankle flashing or otherwise, it’s hard to argue with a man dressed in a sharp suit. Tradition and religious belief should be no barrier to style. Perfectly melding modernity with religious observance, Waris Ahluwalia, who is most recognisable as the bearded face of Gap, proudly wears his turban with a suit, the latter often in a striking bejewelled colour, jacket open for a look that is easy going, effortless, and boldly his own. Still, not all of us are cut from the same cloth. Some of us are larger in less than desired areas. Our recourse should not be a slimming black potato sack. Clever tailoring can have a similar effect to a nip and tuck, with a lot less bloodshed. Yet ample proportioned males frequently are misled into concealing their bulk with overly large jackets and shirts that hang loosely on the shoulders when they should be doing the opposite. Take for example comedian Jonah Hill. Sure he’s hit the gym and said no to some comely “doughnuts”, but by the

look of his jib he’s also invested in a better stylist who makes better wardrobe choices. On the flipside, even the rise of the muscled male has its own set of challenges given that most off-the-rack clothing intended for the Asian market is slim fitting. Yet rather than be relegated to wearing a lifetime of stretchy materials with no arms (aka tank tops), this is precisely where a bespoke shirt or pair of pants should be leaned upon to do a wardrobe’s heavy lifting. Functioning like well-designed architecture, customised items of clothing should provide structure and form where it’s needed most, accentuating one’s broad shoulders, grazing one’s arms and tapering in to make the most of that hard-earned V-shaped body. Because we’re all different. The bittersweet irony of it all is that just when you have a handle on what works on you and what doesn’t, like Alice In Wonderland running the Red Queen’s race, you can still get left behind, because staying true to your style also has its pitfalls. What worked in your 20s won’t work in your 30s; and what worked in your 30s won’t work in your 40s. Not that you would necessarily want it to. After all, some fashion experiments like backwards facing caps really are better left in the past (or worn forwards). On the surface, this smacks of ageism, but on the contrary. With time your body, hair colour, complexion, even the way you carry yourself changes. It’s jungle rules and if you can evolve, you can escape the clutches of time unscathed by misspent purchases and keep your look fresh. At a death-defying 74 years of age, Mick Jagger may have not veered far from the style he flaunted in his 20s, 30s, even his 40s, but that’s because physically he still has that long lean frame and the unbridled energy of a much younger man. And let’s not forget that trademark swagger. In comparison, Jeff Goldblum, ever the dark horse, has at 65 grown into his own sense of self. More than at any other time in your life, style should be about wearing the clothes rather than letting the clothes wear you. Celebrity icons like Robert Redford are proof that you can stick to a style and adapt it as you progress in years. Befitting both the roles he has played and the causes which he attaches himself to (Sundance, the environment), Redford’s smart but ultimately relaxed all-American uniform of blue jeans, white shirts and corduroy jackets remain intact, but the cut and fit has changed. This repeat of the tried and tested needn’t be monotonous. With the right accoutrements, there’s plenty of room to demonstrate a flair for the dramatic and flash some of that personality. Riz Ahmed achieves this with a polka dot pocket square; for renaissance man Danny Glover it’s with a lapel brooch. Yup you read right – jewellery for men that aren’t cufflinks exist. Or you could live by the adage ‘less is more’ and opt for foolproof classics like a pair of aviator glasses and an heirloom watch for a quieter elegance. Ultimately, it’s about appreciating your strengths, even if it takes looking to the male fashion icon most like you to do so.

“It’s jungle rules and if you can evolve, you can escape the clutches of time unscathed by misspent purchases and keep your look fresh.”

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Clockwise from top left: Xavier Dolan on how to make a sharp suit look rock n roll; Jamie Dornan dressed for casual Friday; Jack O’Connel is all business; Michael B Jordan looks a winner in an understated tux.

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INDULGE IN YOUR OWN TIME

WE SHOW YOU THE TRENDIEST PLACES TO HAVE AN ELEGANT MEAL IN PEACE.” TO “BECAUSE DINING WELL SHOULD BE ELEVATED TO AN ART FORM. WORDS BY NOOR AMYLIA HILDA

BRAE DINING ROOM

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BRAE BERKSHIRE PORK & DANDELION

EGG YOLK, POTATO, JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE WITH SAUCE OF COMTE AND VIN JAUNE

There used to be a time when diners would flock to be seen at the trendiest spots. But times are changing as some of today’s most celebrated restaurants are shifting into a more relaxed scene where diners can indulge away from the hustle and bustle. These are the places for those who see dining as a pleasure rather than a necessity. ASADOR ETXEBARRI, SPAIN Etxebarri meaning “new home” in Basque is nestled away in an old restored house near Spain’s Bilbao region near the foothills of Mount Antobo. Similar to its unpretentious settings, you can expect the dishes served at the Michelin starred restaurant to be straightforward and simple. Made with the freshest ingredients from the region, chef and owner Victor Arguinzoniz is known for his grilled Spanish wood-fired barbequed dishes. The grilled dishes lend a homely, smoky aftertaste and scent, reminiscent of cosy days at home with indulgent home-cooked meals, except that the restaurant offers the precise preparation that you’d expect from a Michelin restaurant. Etxebarri is also listed in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants which states its crunchy corn and sea urchin as the most standout dish. It may not be the easiest restaurant to get to where you’d need about an hour’s drive from the nearest town, but the stunning views of the Spanish countryside will definitely work up your appetite once you get there. BRAE, AUSTRALIA Complete with six luxury eco-friendly guest suites where diners can stay the night, Brae is the ultimate dining experience for those looking to indulge in long, languid dinners. The restaurant is set on 30 lush acres of land in the Australian town of Birregurra in Victoria (about two hours drive from Melbourne) where the restaurant grows its own organic crops of vegetables, fruits, and an olive grove where guests can explore. The menu offers contemporary Australian cuisine using the freshest of ingredients by owner and chef Dan Hunter who perfectly curates a set multi-course meal made of seasonal and fresh organic produce that lends a simplicity yet flavourful decadence to the dishes.

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The restaurant also has its own market garden where they make most of their own ingredients from homemade churned butter to homemade bread flour. Brae makes the perfect spot for those looking to indulge in back-to-basics but in the most luxurious standards. AMBER AT THE LANDMARK MANDARIN ORIENTAL, HONG KONG Although Amber is centrally located in a central location at the The Landmark, Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong, the restaurant offers a discreet ambience for diners looking to enjoy a relaxed course meal in lavish settings. The two star Michelin restaurant offers the best contemporary French cuisine under the leadership of Dutch chef Richard Ekkebus known for his minimalist yet practical use of seasonal ingredients. You can definitely expect every ingredient to be carefully thought of for their menu which includes best-sellers such as the foie gras lollipops, Hokkaido sea urchin served with lobster jell-o and cauliflower purée, and crisp seaweed waffles topped with caviar.

Both the setting and menu makes Amber the perfect excuse to escape and indulge in the best French cuisine that Hong Kong has to offer. THE RIVER CAFÉ, LONDON Located in the heart of London, The River Café may not be new to well-informed foodies but their rustic Italian cuisine still comes out on top when one thinks of the best that London has to offer in terms of dining out. Chef and co-founder Ruth Rogers opened the restaurant at Thames Wharf back in 1987. The restaurant was crowned with a Michelin star in 1997 and is known as one of the most exclusive dining spots in London. Expect meals to be made with the finest care from the charred garlic bruschetta to the wood-roasted wild seabass, and the tantalising dessert menu of melt-in-the mouth prune and almond tart and homemade gelati. Reservations should be made weeks in advance.

CHEF AND OWNER VICTOR ARGUINZONIZ OF ASADOR ETZEBARRI

THE INTERIOR OF ASADOR ETXEBARRI

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AMBER WINE ROOM


Both the setting and menu makes Amber the perfect excuse to escape and indulge in the best French cuisine that Hong Kong has to offer.

WHAT TO WEAR Comfort should be your top priority when dressing for dinner. A light jacket that isn’t too fitting would be ideal as you’ll be sitting down most of the time. Pair with a tucked in shirt. For more casual settings, pair a collared shirt with trousers or dark denim and a blazer.

THE RIVER CAFE DINING AREA

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STRAIGHT UP

DRINKS WRITERS JOEL HARRISON AND NEIL RIDLEY MAP OUT THEIR FAVOURITE WATERING HOLES FROM AROUND THE GLOBE IN THEIR NEW BOOK, ‘STRAIGHT UP‘. WORDS BY SAM WYLIE-HARRIS/PRESS ASSOCIATION/ THE INTERVIEW PEOPLE PHOTOGRAPHY BY THE INTERVIEW PEOPLE

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f you share the same love of fine drinks as Joel Harrison and Neil Ridley – “two of the industry’s best travelled bon vivants” according to Ryan Chetiyawardana, aka award- winning bartender Mr Lyan – then you’ll relish their new cocktail bible. ‘Straight Up: Where To Drink & What To Drink On Every Continent’ takes liquor-lovers on a liquid odyssey around the globe, taking in cherry-picked watering holes ‘soundtracked by laughter, with a backdrop of the clinking of glasses and the chitter-chatter of conversation’. Intrigued? Here are five of Joel and Neil’s favourite bars from around the globe, which will make you feel totally at home... 1. Dukes Hotel, London If we had our way, every great bar in the world would have its own unique theme tune to hum while you sipped and savoured their delicacies. If Dukes had a theme tune, it would be Monty Norman’s ‘James Bond Theme’, as this discreet hotel bar nestled in the back streets of St James’ has suave spy written all over it. Dukes is supposedly the location where Ian Fleming developed some of his most memorable characters, and the cocktail list reflects the Bond connections sympathetically: from the zesty double punch of the classic Vesper, through to the 89 Jermyn Street, a martini based around Bond’s favourite fragrance, 89. The real highlight is the drinks trolley, where Alessandro Palazzi crafts his takes on the classics by using an array of frozen spirits and zero dilution. Powerful, charismatic and charming, the drinks should be issued with a licence to kill, given their potency. dukeshotel.com 138 wardrobe


WHAT TO WEAR For after-work drinks, a simple blazer paired with a t-shirt or tuckedin buttoned down shirt would look formal yet not too overdressed. Depending on the venue, wear darker shades to look more formal and lighter shades such as beige for a more relaxed vibe.

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2. Little Red Door, Paris Artistic, avant-garde and undoubtedly stylish could very well apply to any number of places in Paris, but Little Red Door probably tops them all, throwing in sheer ingenuity and a little craziness for good measure. The bar, headed up by Remy Savage, has redefined the approach to the creation of the cocktail, looking beyond merely bringing flavours together, to applying art concepts - and architecture, too. The previous menu paired a number of different illustrations with each specific drink, and the current menu has applied various architectural theories in the design and aesthetic of both the vessel the drink is consumed from and the way it is constructed. This may sound a little pretentious, but the results are staggering. Credit must go to the bar team here for helping to change not only the perspective of how we look at flavour but also the way we interact with our drinks and the environment around them. The reinvention of the Paris bar scene very much continues. lrdparis.com

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3. Door 74, Amsterdam Door 74 can make the lofty claim of being Amsterdam’s first speakeasy-styled bar, and since it opened back in 2008 it has been thrilling customers with its timeless Prohibition-style chic. From the sliding panel in the nondescript front door where you are greeted, all the way through to where you are served incredibly wellcrafted cocktails from a variety of frankly bizarre glassware (think drinking horns and glass skulls), Door 74 has clearly honed its craft to become one of the most important destinations in the city’s cocktail culture. door-74.com wardrobe 141


4. McSorley's Ale House, New York New York is steeped in history, shaping much of the 19th and 20th century with music, fashion, art, architecture, politics, film and literature. Sitting through all of this, quietly observing, and no doubt having its own small influence, has been the great venue that is McSorley’s Ale House. Originally called The Old House at Home, this watering hole first flung open its saloon doors in the mid-1800s, but only to men. In fact, this place only admitted women for the first time after legally being forced to do so in 1970 and is said to have had such luminaries as Abe Lincoln, John Lennon and Hunter S Thompson through its doors. Even Prohibition couldn’t stop this place from serving, and this Grand Old Man of New York keeps going today. A must-visit when you’re in Manhattan, this is a true spit-and-sawdust venue that serves only ales, and of course a cheese platter with raw onions. mcsorleysoldalehouse.nyc 142 wardrobe


5. Zoetrope, Tokyo An intriguing bar named after the ancient spinning cylindrical device that gives an illusion of a moving image. However, there are no illusions here as you stare at the incredibly well-stocked back bar with a good few hundred rare Japanese single malts. Zoetrope is probably one of Tokyo’s leading bars in this field, lovingly curated and cared for by the owner, Atsushi Horigami. Enjoy one of his many whisky recommendations while watching old films from the age of silent movies, which are projected on to the back wall. A very unique experience indeed and certainly top of the visitors’ list for any Japanese whisky aficionado. www.facebook.com/ShotBarZoetrope

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