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Nothing worth having comes easy

ISSUE T02 AUG / DEC 2014 ISSN 2289-5655


WELCOME

Lim Fang Heng Chief Executive Officer

Taking pride in ones appearance has been a man’s prerogative for decades and today in 2014, there should be no change in this legitimate aspiration. First appearances count for more than you may actually realise and what may first appear to be a small matter of style could mean the difference between getting what you want or missing an opportunity. This might sound dramatic but the majority of the information we take in every day is actually visual, so imagine the importance our clothes play in communication. ¶ There has been so much confusion in the fashions that have come and gone. Men have been in crisis trying to figure out what is right, what is the true definition of man. And in doing so, they have adopted confused ideas involving anything from hair straighteners and fake tans to tweezed eye brows and unnaturally pumped bodies that offer zero functionality. ¶ We are supposed to look after our bodies, take care of what we eat, express our emotions but not turn into metrosexual monsters in the process! ¶ The men out there that follow these fashions will only come to realise one truth and that is; fashion is only temporary but style is everlasting. ¶ At Wardrobe, we are taking it upon ourselves to lead the way in Malaysian sartorial excellence. That is our prerogative and so in the second edition of our bespoke magazine, we have included a number of features and guides ranging from straight forward style directions and power instructions to a romance manual fit for a prince. ¶ What we hope to convey to our readers is our appreciation of quality. The lengths that we go to find the very best fabrics as well as the time we have dedicated to perfecting our tailors’ skills are what essentially separates us from everyone else. ¶ Every choice of fabric, every cut and each button hole begins with an in depth consultation leading to the creation of something so personal that there can only really be one true owner. The only exception to this would be when a father passes down a beautiful suit to his son and in doing so he reinforces the truth that style really is ever lasting. On this page - Illustration by Tyler Tee / On the left page - Leather Travel Bag from Wardrobe. Photography by Soon Lau/ShowUp Pictures

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Contents War Guide

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War Chest A collection of elements that allow a person to get through a life that requires much more than just money

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A Gentleman’s Guide to Romance Quirky and interesting tips to equip yourself with. This is how you make a difference

86 88 How to Become a Pro Car Racer We sat down with professional racer Zen Low to find out the steps in becoming a pro-car racer

BOSS’S CHOICES: 56 Canvas Bag · 80 Leather Bags · 90 Ultimate Gift for Her · 98 Linen Shirt

Sartorial

20 22 Kiton An interview with Antonio De Matteis, CEO of Kiton about his fabulous brand of fabrics from Napoli

2nd Generation Find out who are the faces behind Wardrobe and what they each do to contribute to the success of the brand

Non verbal Communication Master the art of nonverbal communication and you’ll unlock the secrets of everyone including yourself

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Suit Cuttings Find the right suit cut for your body type along with tips on how to accentuate or disguise

Journey of Making a Suit Learn about the step-by-step process of making a suit from the boutique to the workshop

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Cool Stuff

Fashion Everyday life requires resilience and strength of mind, all reinforced by the clothes we wear

66 68 74 Woman Kate Moss will always be remembered as the rebel in the fashion modeling world, find out why

Icon One man remains a timeless icon of masculine style. A fact underlined by his effortless approach. The question is who?

Mixology A cocktail, when done right with the best ingredients in a great atmosphere is a little slice of heaven

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Automobile Take a spin on the leanest, meanest version of the Camaro from Chevrolet, the Z/28

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ELEGA N

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Crazy Horse Sexy theatrical caberet is back in high demand. Where better to experience this than in Paris?

Travel Yachting isn’t just for Wall Street wolves anymore, discover the adventures of chartering one

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Clever Clogs We interview the CEO of one of the few family run bespoke shoe companies

Man of War Simple tips on elements of a suit that will make a huge difference

OUR KE •Y

Holland & Sherry Learn about the history and details of fine wool from this prestigious fabric company

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CONTRIBUTORS

editorial

Editor-in-Chief Lim Fang Heng Editor & Producer

Tyler Tee

Tian Xing

illustrator

photographer

Tyler is an art and fashion enthusiast, illustrator and freelance artist currently based in KL. He specialises in fashion illustration, portraiture and the human form. Dynamic line drawings and pencil sketches are the centre of his work.

Trained in Paris by world renowned master fashion photographer, Paolo Roversi, Tian Xing is very influenced by European culture. He specialises in art photos that are both silent and touching as he aspires to bring out a special personality trait in his subjects. Tian Xing’s work is sometimes quirky and is always something you cannot tear your eyes away from.

Carla Sapsford Newman

Jack Newberry Managing Editor

writer

Kavitha Seheran

Carla Sapsford Newman is a freelance writer and consultant based in Kuala Lumpur. She’s been a television producer, a communications manager for a round-the-world yacht race, a knowledge management consultant, a media trainer, a newsroom manager and more recently a mother in her 40s.

Staff Writers Aishah Azali Vivian Tan production

Art Director & Designer Irene Danesi writers

Aswan Yap, Carla Sapsford Newman, Cheong Phin, Fay Khoo, Fik Shah, Gavin Yap, Marc Jitab creatives

Alberto Rubio, Amin Daud, Joey Yap, Laine Wong, Penncakes, Soon Lau, Tian Xing, Tyler Tee, Vincent Paul Yong printer

Times Offset (M) Sdn Bhd (194695-W), Bangunan Times Publishing, Lot 46, Subang Hi Tech Industrial Park, Batu Tiga, 40000 Shah Alam, Malaysia publisher

WB Wardrobe Sdn Bhd (552639-V), 51 Jalan Maarof, Bangsar, 59100 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia www.wardrobe.com.my producer

Aswan Yap

Amin Daud

Marc Jitab

writer

illustrator

writer

(403251-M), Level 36, Menara Ambank,

An atypical car enthusiast who would rather take public transport than be condemned to drive something uninspiring. Stringing sentences together since 2009.

An optimistic lover of arts, Amin Daud aka Amencodai is a 2d illustrator living in Nilai, Negeri Sembilan. He is working on concept art for mobile game design at Teratotech Sdn Bhd. During spare time, this lad loves to catch a movie, read comics and sketch whatever that he sees.

Marc Jitab has been writing professionally for the past five years. Besides a healthy interest in politics, culture, and the arts, he pretends to be a musician every now and then.

8 Jalan Yap Kwan Seng,

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Mongoose Pacific (M) Sdn Bhd

50450 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia www.mongooseasia.com

The views and opinions expressed or implied in the articles published are those of the authors and contributors and do not necessarily reflect those of WB Wardrobe Sdn Bhd. All information is correct at the time of print. While every reasonable care is taken in compiling the magazine, the publisher shall not be held liable for any omission, error or inaccuracy. Please notify the publisher in writing of any such omission, error or inaccuracy. Editorial contributors are welcome, but unsolicited materials are submitted at the sender’s risk. The publisher cannot accept any responsibility for loss or damage. All rights reserved by WB Wardrobe Sdn Bhd. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the publisher’s permission in writing.


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EDITOR’s NOTE

JACK NEWBERRY Editor & Producer

Making yourself heard amongst the pletho- out and make an impression amongst the ra of voices and sea of opinions is becoming packs of hungry bar wolves that stalk the more and more difficult today. Communica- city for female prey. tion has never been easier, but meaningful You will find this edition of Wardrobe dialogue is becoming scarce. With the rise to be quite instructional in its approach to of social media, almost everyone is in a race subjects as we aim to lead the way to seeing for attention and the obsession with likes, the challenges of life in a different light. hits, followers and friend counts that comes We certainly didn’t back down at the across like desperate teenage girls. chance to learn how to realise our dreams What is for certain is that being generic in the face of fear disguised as skepticism and copying someone or something suc- when we looked into how mere mortal men cessful is not impressive. People will look at could transform into F1 heroes. In our inyou or the work you have terview with Zen Low, done and inevitably say we discover how to be‘good’… if you are lucky. come a professional race But ‘good’ is not enough. car driver step by step. ‘Good’ is not remarkable. Sometimes the biggest ‘Good’ is what people risk you can take in life is go for when they don’t not taking one at all. have the confidence to In the Journey of Makback themselves and do ing a Suit, you will find something special. It is out what exactly hapthe equivalent of buying pens when a suit is made a mainstream brand suit and why Wardrobe suits pablo picasso in a clearance sale, there are so special. You will be is nothing brave or impressive about it. surprised when you read about the many There is a deeper issue here which is the steps there actually are in the process. But fear of failure and the risk involved in not instead of sharing more, I think it is time to relying on someone else’s proven ideas. end this note and allow you to read on. Pride prevents us from putting ourselves I once heard that it is always good to end out there for all to see. Pride is often mis- an essay with a quote… I believe I saw it taken for ego and ego, like so many things in a film called American History X. I rein life must be balanced like the white blood member a character called Derek saying cells in our veins. Too much or too little can that when someone else has already said be fatal, but just the right amount is neces- it best, you can’t beat it. So if you can’t beat sary to function properly. it, steal it from them and go out strong. We have worked hard to not let pride get The quote in the box resonates in the conin the way as we explored the various ideas text of a skill being shared from one generin the magazine. It never stopped us from ation to the next and that is exactly what looking at how men could raise their game is happening at Wardrobe. Craftsmanship when it comes to romance. A fat wallet of the highest degree acquired from overcan only get you so far, real pros learn the seas and eventually passed on to those tricks of the trade. They know how to stand with equal passion.

The meaning of life is to find your gift. The purpose of life is to give it away

Fabric Design by Bennison Fabrics UK

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War Chest

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war chest: a collection of elements that allow a person to get through Illustration by Tyler Tee a life that requires much more than just money.

1 The Queen of Contemporary Architecture

Zaha Hadid applies a futuristic vibrancy to every standing creation. No one in the art world can say starchitect without mentioning Zaha Hadid. Winner of the prestigious Pritzker Architecture Prize and being the first woman to do so means she’s more than worthy to be given that title. It is not only about design and structure when it comes to Zaha. Her design aesthetic practices the integration of landscape and geology into her usually sinuous-designed buildings. Examples of her futuristic landmarks include the Guangzhou Opera House and the London Aquatic Center for the 2012 London Olympics. Those two are only a fraction of her engaging contribution to architecture, which are scattered across the globe showing that the world does appreciate her unorthodox designs making her the revolutionist of modern architecture.

“Her design aesthetic practices the integration of landscape and geology into her usually sinuousdesigned buildings”

Zaha Hadid’s sinuous design beautifully integrated in Heydar Aliyev centre august

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Snorkelers’ Best Accessory

Over 70 percent of the world is covered in water and God is not making anymore land. Perhaps it is time to explore? Our obsession with images just took on a new realm.

Underwater photographers and videographers rejoice with the Wide Angle Scuba Series HD 1080P Camera Mask by Liquid Image. This HD camera mask features a 12.0 MP interpolated camera

with a wide 136˚ field of view. Capture stunning images or videos up to 40 metres in depth for two hours thanks to the 4GB micro SD card which can be upgraded to a 32GB.

4 Ben ‘Smooth’ Henderson What is the connection between yoga and the most brutal sport in the world? Known to be one of the most placid fighters outside of the Octagon, ESPN’s 2012 Fighter of the Year, Ben ‘Smooth’ Henderson privately defies the stereotypical MMA fighter of today. Known for his lusty physique and rage in the cage towards victory, Henderson believes there is more to it than that.

A strong believer in a clean lifestyle backed up by discipline, this 2012 UFC Lightweight Champion holds true to mental strength. He unconventionally winds down with the healing power of Bikram yoga on top of his vigorous training camp and has even managed to swear off alcohol.

“The biggest factor between winning and losing is the mental approach”

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Shun Higo Nokami Knife

Beautifully designed, the Shun Higo Nokami pocketknife is the perfect accessory for those who love craftsmanship.

For a pocketknife with the precision of a Shun blade, the Shun Higo Nokami or ‘Gentleman’s Knife’ is the perfect accessory. The first Japanese pocketknife manufactured in 1896 in Meiji-era Japan, this handsome blade is made

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with the thin and sharp VG10 “super steel” and a resin-infused PakkaWood handle for lasting moisture resistance. Whether you get it for yourself or as a gift, the Higo Nokami is a blade of understated craftsmanship.


Photography by Tian Xing / Show Up Pictures

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The Meatball Shop

Meatballs are one of the basic joys of life that do not always get the recognition that they deserve. The lads at the MEATBALL SHOP give this simple dish the attention it deserves.

The Meatball Shop 84 Stanton Street New York, NY 10002 T (212) 982-8895 www.themeatballshop.com

High school buddies and rising stars of the New York culinary scene, Daniel Holzman and Michael Chernow are really making waves in their hometown of the city that never sleeps and everywhere else in between. As the innovators of the fast-casual meatball dining experience, The Meatball Shop, the boys have earned their place in the world of restaurant business. Holzman cooked for notable high-end dining hotspots like Aqua and Jardini while Chernow is an elixir master, slinging drinks at the Italian hipster joint, Frank for seven years. Not just a pair of good looking New Yorkers, the boys also earned their education at the Culinary Institute of

America and French Culinary Institute respectively. With five locations under their belt - Lower East Side, Williamsburg, West Village, Chelsea and Upper East Side – people keep coming back for those delectable meatballs from the Steak ‘N’ Bacon Cheddar Balls to their hearty Vegetable Balls on top of their Classic Beef ones. The sky is the limit for these ambitious blokes. With their thriving restaurant business, helping out for charity and even sharing their kitchens with upstart businesses, the boys certainly have a hand full (or shall I say plate full) but they seem to be balancing it out very well.

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Wardrobe Suit Jacket Stay versatile no matter the occasion.

Business, social or personal - the reason does not matter. Every man should have a reliable jacket to fit any occasion. It’s your go-to-garment that will save the day when you get that last minute invitation to a yacht party or the impromptu meeting with that very special person. Our recommendation is the Sport Coat because of its light weight and durability when traveling, not to mention versatile style.

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War Chest Sartorial Scent

Only one man in every pack can wear this scent.

There is an art to perfumery that is mastered through years of experience on top of having a nose for all things fragrant. The decadent Victorian era was the time of inception for Penhaligon’s, and till this day they have been producing a variety of scents for true modern dandies and bold women. With seven fragrance families that includes citrus, spirits, spices, flowers, and even wood, you will be dazzled by their scents seeped with heritage and be spoiled for choices.

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Unorthodox Eye Candy

Automobiles, sausages and world cups. That’s right, we’re talking about German engineering.

Not your average optical manufactory, MYKITA goes above and beyond when it comes to design. A favourite of the high fashion scene, their eyewear will more than just turn heads but stamp you as the fashion forward.

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1 Bernard Willhelm Hubert 2 Bernard Willhelm Heinz

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Their collaboration with fashion designer Bernhard Willhelm deserves a standing ovation with unorthodox design mixed with uncommon colour palettes. Sleek, futuristic and undeniably bold, these well-crafted optics are the combination of fashion and art.

GunBox A product that combines intelligence, safety and design can be seen in the futuristic looking Gun Box. Designed for safe gun storage, this box can be opened through biometric fingerprint scan or radio-frequency identification (RFID) bracelet or ring. A step up for security, the box has the ability to notify the owner of its movements, opening and closing. In addition, if someone does manage to break the Kensington lock port it comes with and steal your box, you can track it down via GPS. Can’t get any safer than that.

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Trust technology to solve your relationship problems with the new application called BroApp. Men can now send personalised automated daily text messages to their loved ones during occupied times. An app for indolence? More like an app for the multitasker. No fear, BroApp comes with intelligent safety measures disabling message sending upon detection of girlfriend’s WIFI network and a ‘girlfriend safety lock down’ for those inquisitive girlfriends.

The Mountain Assault Vehicle

When it comes to monstrous trucks, Ken Block might have built the ultimate example, all because he wanted to go mountain snowboarding with his buddies.

When it comes to upgrades, there is nothing minor about the Ford F-150 RaptorTRAX. The brainchild of rally driver Ken Block, with the help of Special Vehicle Concepts in California, made this RaptorTRAX the ultimate vehicle and the fastest for backcountry snowboarding. A monstrous enhancement of the Ford Racing prepared F-150 Raptor, this snowcat features a whipple supercharged 6.2L V8, a full roll cage, Recaro seating and four burly Mattracks to wreck through the snow with. Special add-ons include snowboard racks, a roof basket, a rear-mounted winch, interior storage for snacks, exterior stereo setup and sufficient amount of lighting to guide you through your path.

“The RaptorTRAX is the ultimate vehicle for backcountry snowboarding”

Ken Block standing proud next to his monster of a truck, the Ford F-150 RaptorTRAX

“This project is something I’ve had in my head for a while now,” Ken Block notes. “I absolutely love my daily driver Ford Raptor, especially since I live out here in the mountains of Park City, so to build this mountain assault vehicle with a Raptor as the base made total sense to me. I’m stoked with how it’s turned out. Next up is to take it deep in the backcountry ASAP to help me and some friends slay some powder on our snowboards.”

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INTERVIEW WITH ANTONIO DE MATTEIS

Love, Passion & Mastery

Having an appreciation for the very best in life is not simply a question of price tag and brand name. This is the lazy approach. True lovers of craftsmanship seek the best in life. It is a relentless pursuit and one that has made the Napoli fabric dealers, Kiton, who they are today; a symbol of class, quality and social distinction in a worldwide market. We interviewed Antonio De Matteis (CEO) about his fabulous brand.

How did Kiton begin? What is the inspiration behind the brand? Kiton was created thanks to the intuition of its founder, Ciro Paone who during the mid fifties realised that the tailor’s shop was about to disappear. For this reason, he brought together approximately thirty tailors who were normally customers of his fabric shop. And this is how his artisan work began. His inspiration was always focused on a product of very high level of quality and, most importantly, an international product.

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What sets you apart from other elite brands of suits? The style, the quality of the products and workmanship are the main elements that characterise Kiton from any other company throughout the world. Why do your clients spend more on your bespoke suits? The bespoke service manages to satisfy customers in terms of their most peculiar requirements and therefore they are willing to pay a little extra.

How long can a Kiton suit last? A Kiton garment can last a lifetime if kept and looked after. Why do your clients always buy from you when there are numerous high quality choices on the market? What stops them from going elsewhere? Because our customers recognise in us, a quality, a level and a service all dedicated to them. This makes us unique. As far as they are concerned, it is not easy, if not impossible, to find in other brands what they find in Kiton.

Interview by Vivian Tan


The entire philosophy of Ciro Paone is reproduced in its style and in its product. Its way of thinking and living is reflected in the product

What is Kiton’s philosophy when it comes to style? The entire philosophy of Ciro Paone is reproduced in its style and in its product. Its way of thinking and living is reflected in the product. What is the most important thing to consider when buying a suit? The most important thing is how a customer feels when he buys a Kiton garment. From the very second that he puts it on, between him and the garment, there could be a certain feeling that makes him feel as though the garment is his - then he will definitely buy it. Kiton originated from Naples – can you explain the influence of the city and their fashion? Kiton could only have been born in Naples; the homeland of tailors and an important tradition in male clothing. The added value of Ciro Paone’s company lies in the fact that from the very beginning he tried to make this Neapolitan look become even more international, less recognisable, without eliminating the constructive aspects of Neapolitan tailoring. Tell me about your favourite Kiton collection. My favourite collection is always the last. In each one of our collections, we always try to include the best of what is on the market at that moment. What is the process that goes into making a suit? We always start with the fabric, being one of the most important ingredients of the garment. We then move onto cutting and construction.

How many store locations are there at the moment? We now have 46 single brand stores throughout the world. Where do you see Kiton in the next 10 years? The company has huge potential. I am sure that this company still has huge potential, but we want to grow without losing sight of quality: the quality of the product, the quality of the service, the quality of distribution.

Wardrobe takes great pride in only working with the best suppliers around the world so there is no surprise that KITON and Wardrobe have decided to collaborate. KITON is available at Wardrobe’s flagship store in Bangsar where clients will find an excellent selection of suits, blazers, trousers, shirts and accessories. Clients can choose their choice of fabric and style, then get their measurements taken and fittings done in the Bangsar branch before the order is sent off to Napoli in Italy. The suit will be crafted by hand over a period of six weeks before returning back to KL for final fittings and adjustments.

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WORDS BY JACK NEWBERRY

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIAN XING

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Wardrobe was not created with a limited view of the future. They are more than prepared to achieve the legacy that so many companies dream of. They embody the principle that good things come to those that wait after perseverance and dedication. Chai Chang Shen Retail Assistant

Lim Fang Seng Manager Lim Fang Meng Bespoke Specialist

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Lim Fang Heng CEO


C. T. Phuan Bespoke Jacket Tailoring

Phuan Ching Seet Inventory and Procurement Executive

Every year, someone makes a hit record. Artists you have never heard of become famous around the world and rich overnight. More often than not, these people that come out of nowhere and make a sensational record, fall into the ‘one hit wonder’ category and fail to make any kind of impact in the market again. The same issue applies to business, with companies coming in and out of the market with more frequency than a fiddler’s elbow. Someone sees a successful idea and thinks “I can do that” without any real planning, training or knowledge. They try to make a ‘remix’ of a successful business and the result is usually a disaster. Consistency is perhaps one of the most underrated attributes on the market. Once an idea is born and the foundations are laid, it is then a matter of blood, sweat, tears and pure perseverance to not only realise the dream and make a hit, but keep the dream going and doing everything possible to stop it from disappearing into a puff of smoke. This requires determination that many do not have, the kind of determination that the founders of Wardrobe possess. It’s the kind of purpose that the 2nd generation that are taking Wardrobe forward have. Sometimes, what we believe is an advantage is actually a disadvantage. This is often the case with money and parenting. The 2nd generation could have easily fallen into the trap that so many kids fall into when they come from successful families. But this is not the case with Wardrobe. The value of a hard work ethic and principle importance of ones trade has been installed into every member of the company. Success for Wardrobe, and the team behind the brand, has already been achieved. It is the count of multiple achievements and outcomes that have allowed the company to keep growing to what it is today. The next step is significance and legacy. The challenge will be to maintain the high level of service and product that is currently available as the 1st generation of leaders slowly take a step backwards and allow the next generation to drive the company forward. The first step in the succession plan, initiated over 2005/6 with a main aim of development for the management team. Using their comprehensive knowledge

of a management system which documents, trains and re-trains its team periodically, Wardrobe has been able to invest in their people so that everyone is fully prepared to take on the next level of responsibility when the time comes for the company to expand. The strategy employed to keep the organisation growing from strength to strength is not limited to the children of the owners. Wardrobe has a culture of unity and team effort, which is why a particular focus has been placed on training young talent for various functions within the company. There is a Talent Management program in place within various departments, including Management and Marketing, Technical and Tailoring skills, Retail Division, Administration, Inventory and Procurement. At the head of the business in the position of CEO is Lim Fang Heng who majored in business administration and is a professionally trained image consultant. Fang Heng has been integral to the new look and communication of Wardrobe through a number of strategic campaigns that span across television, film, content marketing, social media and various initiatives that have all contributed to raising the company profile. In charge of the flagship store organisation is Lim Fang Seng who capitalises on his management degree to ensure that the day to day operations are smooth. The final Lim brother is Fang Meng, who was trained at London’s Savile Row Academy for menswear tailoring and design and also possesses a degree in management. Fang Meng’s Savile Row expertise ensures Wardrobe’s dedication to excellence with no compromise. Chai Chang Shen has been covering operations away from the flagship store in the Sheraton Imperial boutique. Whilst C.T. Phuan, who received a higher diploma in hospitality from New Zealand, is focusing all his efforts behind the scenes by perfecting his skills in the production of bespoke jacket tailoring. In terms of inventory and procurement, Phuan Ching Seet has taken up the role thus completing a holistic succession plan, which incorporates the 2nd generation of sons and daughters. In each case, everyone in the plan has been given exposure to not only a role that

Wardrobe proceeds to give Malaysians what they need; a perfectly fine suit

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they have taken on but other responsibilities which gives each individual what is effectively a major and a minor skill. For example, in the case of Chai Chang Shen, his major is management and retail but he also has training in computer aided design (CAD) and shirt cutting. With such preparations in place on so many levels, it is clear that a company such as Wardrobe was not created with a limited view of the future. They are more than prepared to achieve the legacy that so many companies dream of and they embody the principle that good things come to those that wait after perseverance and dedication. Leaving a legacy is a personal or collective stamp on the future. It is the story that does not end when you leave and the next level of accomplishment for those who have already achieved so much. Wealth inherited is a blessing. It can solve many problems and make life that much easier. But it does not ensure happiness, nor does it give the next generation the means of independence or ability. By bringing the next generation into the fold, the story continues and Wardrobe proceeds to give Malaysians what they need; a perfectly fine suit.

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The Journey of Making a Suit

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The Perfect Fit Words by Marc Jitab Photographs by Tian Xing

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A customised service for a bespoke suit, clients are consulted on every detail

Clockwise from left Precise measurements; selection of desired fabric; getting to know the customer; behind the scenes of production; precisely working on the fabric

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A bespoke suit is tailored for one person, and for one person only

Quite fittingly (pun wholly intend-

ed), a well-tailored suit is a customised item that fits the personality, physique, and tastes of an individual. Suits were ubiquitous in a bygone era, and famed French fashion designer Jean Patou once said that “to be truly ‘soigné’ a man should have 80 suits.” Swapping suits for more casual wear, these symbols of respect, stature, class, and style are still made using time-tested traditional know-how and modern technology. How these quality garments are actually made are as much a science as it is an art. The team at Wardrobe recognise that the bespoke suit is tailored for one person and one person only, and thus the first step is to build a personal customer relationship. The foundation of a good suit is to elicit the needs of the customer with regards to the suit, such the fabric

type, weight, construction, colour and patterns, and design. More than that, this critical first step builds trust that the customer is in good hands and that his or her personal suit will be realised. Then, the master tailor takes accurate measurements of the individual using skill and care to hold the tension of the measuring tape to accurately and quickly measure the arc of the shoulders and length of the sleeves. For the jacket, 10 measurements are made on the torso, whereas another eight are taken for the trousers. Art and science is employed together as the measuring process takes into account how the physique is shaped, whether the customer stands erect, hunches, or has sloping shoulders. These many nuances have to be factored into the making of a suit that will define the figure of the owner. august

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The first two steps of this process may have started at the boutique, but the fabric storage area and tailoring facilities at the head office were already on standby to turn these measurements into a quality bespoke suit. For instance, the finest fabrics from reputable mills worldwide are already on hand for us to satisfy a customer’s preferences. The mills, where these excellent fabrics are sourced from, have a long history of merging tradition and technology to make such fabrics which are the fundamental elements of every suit. What is not seen are the interior elements, such as the shoulder pads, trimmings, linings, canvas, horse hair, pocketing, trouser waistband and zippers which are sourced from Europe with only the best materials used to ensure the integrity of the suit from within to exterior. The buttons are all natural horn and mother of pearl imported from Italy. Next, the blueprint of the jacket — its pattern — is drafted, where each pattern is cut individually by a senior experienced cutter that has to take into account each customer’s physical nuances. A record of this cut is taken and kept for future reference in the event that the same customer would like new suits. The patterns are then carefully translated onto the fabrics and cut. The whole process is done by hand. The preparation of the chest canvas comes after this, and this piece provides structure for the jacket. A good chest canvas is made of horse hair to provide the durability and flexibility of the jacket’s chest area. This key support piece is meticulously stitched by hand over many hours and the result is a natural and soft feel for the customer whilst remaining

completely durable. Over time, the canvas will shape itself to the customer as it spends time being moulded on the body. It is time for the first fitting back at the boutique. At this stage, the “baste” — a loosely-sewn jacket — is used to determine the fit and overall balance of the jacket. Checks will be made on the shoulder width, jacket length, and silhouette as well as the fit around the chest, waist, and hips. Then, an examination of the armhole depth will be made to assess whether there is any restriction in movement. Once these major areas have been covered, the collar gap and sleeve pitch will also be checked. The first fitting of the trousers includes a review of the waist tightness, inside length, and overall hang of the trousers. Back at the head office, the baste will be dismantled to account for the changes recorded in the first fitting. The necessary amendments will be made before the customer is invited to a second fitting at the boutique, which is more of a fine-tuning of the suit to make minor, accurate tweaks that will make the suit a perfect fit. It is only then that the jacket bottom is closed by hand sewing it shut. The hand sewing technique allows the fabric to stretch in accordance with body movement, giving the jacket a soft finishing. Then, the sleeve lining is carefully stitched and tension-controlled by hand for a natural finish. The final touches to the suit start with the jacket being machine-pressed to help contour the fabric closer to a client’s body shape, and it is then hand-pressed to slowly shape it for a natural look. All done! A bespoke suit now awaits its new owner at the boutique, ready to clothe him or her in elegance.

A blue print of the suit is made, leading to the foundations, interior design and finishing touches

Clockwise from left Chest canvas fitted; fittings and adjustments made accordingly; final stage sewing; pressing with precision; bespoke specialist inspecting the final article

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Only the best materials are used to ensure the integrity of the suit from within to exterior

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Words by Fik Shah Images by Getty

The suit that suits Choosing the right suit that suits your body type is very important. Suits are not a one size fits all fashion items. Even if you’ve put on a high-end luxurious suit but look as though you are uncomfortable with it, you are bound to be scrutinised and ridiculed for putting it on. A suit should bring out the best in a man and successfully highlight his good qualities – this is why selecting the right suit is crucial.

The Tall Man If you are the same height as Tim Robbins or Liam Neeson, then basically you are a tall man. Tall man should avoid wearing vertical patterns such as the pin stripe. If he chooses to do so, choose stripes which are much wider in scale to counter balance the tall lanky stature. Patterns with horizontal bias such as checks is a good option. A single breasted 2 button is a good option. Try not to show too much of the cuffs on your sleeve and ask for a decent amount of break in your trousers so that your long legs don’t look too lanky. By now you should already have the right idea of the kind of suit you should be wearing, but also consider this, wearing the belt instead of side adjusters is helpful because the visual of the belt breaks the vertical orientation of your height. You may also wear the odd jacket and contrast trousers combination to create a separation of the upper and lower body. Have the length of the jacket slightly longer. With all these being done, it will add more width and body to your tall lanky figure.

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The Short Man If you are similar in height to Tom Cruise or maybe more like Danny DeVito you should avoid loud, complicated patterns or prints on your suit. These are visually distracting and draw attention to your height. Sticking to solids or stripes is the way to go as these help create the illusion of a longer silhouette. Do pay attention to the number of buttons on your jacket; do not have more than two buttons on your jacket. Three-button jackets would draw more visual attention to your torso and also ‘lengthen’ it, making your legs appear shorter. Also, do not wear wide neckties and wide lapels. Now that you have avoided all these, consider wearing higher rise trousers and wear it on the waist to create a longer leg illusion. Avoid trouser cuffs and match the suit you are wearing with a more slender shaped shoe. Think about wearing dark coloured suits and try not to mismatch the top and the bottom as this will not help us achieve a seamless top down vertical orientation.

The Large Man Men whose waists are larger than their chests face the problem of finding clothes that do not make them appear larger than they actually are. More often than not, what fits the heavy man in the shoulders is too small in the waist; therefore, the large man should seek a jacket with a generous cut and a flattering drape. Do not try to wear form fitting clothing; it’s better to have a loose fit around the midsection to avoid tight bunching which screams excess girth. The heavy man cannot conceal his size, but his clothing can serve the purpose of refocusing his observers’ attention to his face. Think Jack Black, Seth Rogen and maybe Jonah Hill. Vertical lines and dark solid colours are a friend of the heavy man because they create the illusion of height and thin the silhouette, and anything that stretch-

es you in height helps with lessening the appearance of the midsection. Again, no fabric or pattern will make the large man look thin – but the right choice here will give him a powerful and elegant form. As for style, the heavy man should lean towards two button jackets with a deep “V” to help elongate the chest. Peak lapels on a single breasted suit can create more vertical lines (and their width helps the suit’s proportions), as do slanted pockets help chisel away breadth from the mid section. Like the short man, a man with a large midsection is best served when he wears trousers higher than his hips. Instead of his trousers “squeezing” him, they drape over the bottom of the stomach and create the illusion of longer legs. For large men who have not discovered suspenders, please explore this option.

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Fashion Fades, Style is Eternal

There is more to just a great cut and good tailoring in a gentleman’s suit Words by Cheong Phin Photographs by Holland & Sherry

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There is more to just a great cut and good tailor-

ing in a gentleman’s suit. The outfit of matching jacket and trousers invariably begins with a solid foundation of a fine fabric that is key to determining its form and attaining a desired level of mobility and comfort expected of the discerning male customer today. Fine wool is a firm favourite amongst the handful of fabrics used by men’s custom tailors across the world. A product of animal fibres brimming with unique properties such as a natural drape and durability, wool is also comfortable to wear, wrinkle-resistant and most versatile in different climatic conditions – keeping one cool when it’s hot and vice versa. In short, nothing in the world performs like Pure New Wool and it has always been regarded as the ultimate fibre in men’s suiting. The most common type of wool is merino and its ability to absorb moisture enables the fine fabric to perform equally well in tropical climates as in cooler conditions of the northern hemisphere, given the emergence of new woven cloth designs with finer counts of yarns made possible by advanced spinning technology. As a result, a warm-weather suit today weighs a lot less than before, thus cooler and comfortable on the wearer and, it is the progressive creation of these new super fine suiting fabrics by renowned cloth manufacturers such as Holland & Sherry from Britain that are truly making a huge difference to the art of suit making. For example, the climate in Malaysia is hot and humid all year round so the Snowy River Super 120’s at 225 gms is most ideal. Even lighter is our Dragonfly boasting an Aquarret Super 160’s at 200 gms with the added showerproof quality to withstand humidity. & sherry - Founded in London in 1836, cloth merchants Holland & Sherry has traditionally been at the forefront of making the finest worsted and woollen cloths, serving the needs of the tight circle of bespoke tailors in the West End of London or better known worldwide as Savile Row. Their cloths are woven in a time-honoured way by generations of craftsmen and the company is extremely proud of its British heritage by continuing to source superfine wool fabrics from textile manufacturers in Yorkshire as well as luxurious tweed and cashmere from Scotland until today. In the 1900s, Holland & Sherry dominated the market in United Kingdom and was exporting to many countries around Europe as well as North and South America. By the second half of the twentieth century, the company developed considerable sales of luxury cloth in the Far East and tailors throughout the world soon regarded Holland & Sherry as one of the truly great houses for quality cloth. The “Holland & Sherry” wool collection features specialised luxury cloths like the extraordinary Super 140’s and cashmere ‘Signature’ cloth with a name woven into the stripes. Today, the finest cloth made by Holland & Sherry is the Masterpiece Super 180’s quality, woven from a superfine 140/2 new metric yarn count, arguably the world’s finest spun yarn to date. holland

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From left to right Pattern Development; Vintage Peebles Lorry; Dandy; Pattern Weaving; Final Product


“ The Finest Cloths in the World” collection from Holland & Sherry is appreciated globally by the very best of bespoke and custom tailors

wool count - Just like a thread count is rated in linen or cotton to measure its quality, the “Super” number is the unit of measure for fineness in wool quality in the world of suiting. For centuries, the quality of wool is determined by the breed of sheep and customarily graded by the “S” system that denotes the fineness of a given batch of wool. The rule was the higher the number, the finer the wool is. However, in the light of today’s new technology advancing in spinning yarn, a new grading system is devised by the International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO) based in Brussels, Belgium to define the quality of wool according to the thinness of the yarn, as measured in microns (the exact diameter of the wool). Thus, the lower the micron counts, the finer the yarn. Using the word “Super” to denote

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the fabric is made from pure new wool and the ensuing “number” to represent the thread counts in a one square-inch fabric, the current grading also allows the pure wool fabric to blend with rare fibres such as alpaca, cashmere, mohair or silk. Fibres with diameters less than 19 microns are regarded as top-quality fibres while fabrics with thread counts of 100 or above are considered fine quality wools. Super 100s and Super 120s are the mainstay of suiting for frequent travellers and business men since they are relatively more durable, resilient and wrinkle-resistant. Super 150s to Super 160s are lighter, finer and more luxurious but require extra care in maintenance and skilful tailoring. At Wardrobe, the consultants offer the highest standard of traditional bespoke tailoring to turn the finest cloths from Holland & Sherry into an equally fine suit for their esteemed clients. There are over 3000 patterns to choose from that range from Super 120s to Super 200s and the possibilities are endless when it comes to investing in bespoke suit made from the revered Holland & Sherry fabric. Known for providing cloths for big movies such as Mission Impossible and Moulin Rouge, “The Finest Cloths in the World” collection from Holland & Sherry is appreciated globally by the very best of bespoke and custom tailors, made to measure retailers, fashion designers and costume designers. Where there is a desire for the ultimate in luxury woven cloth, Holland & Sherry is always ready to play a leading role in one’s journey to sartorial pleasure in life.

From left to right Homespun stock room; man at work - measuring and folding; excellent craftmanship in blue; traditional pinstripe suit

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By Appointment Tailoring Wardrobe have once again taken the industry to another level with the launch of their latest satorial service ‘privato’. clients can now enjoy the priviledge of excellent customer care from the privacy of their own homes with the help of experts.

PRIVATO, meaning ‘private’ in Italian, allows time poor businessmen and individuals who appreciate privacy to have a personalised tailoring service in the location they desire. This is a revolutionary step forward in customer care for Malaysia on many levels. “PRIVATO’s service allows our customers to indulge in the art of master craftsmanship at their own leisure and in the comfort of their own homes or offices,” said Mr. Lim Fang Heng, CEO of Wardrobe. “We have a dedicated team of Master Tailors who will make personalised visits to our customer’s choice of venue to provide a full bespoke tailoring experience,” he further explained. PRIVATO’s first visit includes design consultation, selection of fabric and record of measurements, followed by a first-fitting. This all happens at the customer’s choice of venue. In about two to three weeks, the custom-made personalised suit will be personally delivered to the customer. Any additional suits made from then on will be effortless as PRIVATO would already have your measurements; all you need to do is choose your desired fabric. “We foresee this service changing the perception of traditional bespoke tailoring in Malaysia, where people have to make time to come over to boutiques and get measured for a suit. With PRIVATO, we bring fine tailoring to your doorstep,” Mr. Lim enthused. Master Tailors with 20 to 30 years of experience produce fresh modern-day designs, keeping in check their stupendous standards in tailoring, maintaining Wardrobe’s legacy in the tailoring industry. In the interest of improving standards in tailoring, Wardrobe has taken the initiative to raise awareness. PRIVATO will be primarily available in the Klang Valley with plans to gradually expand to other states in Malaysia.

For more information, kindly call 03-2282 6866 or email privato@wardrobe.com.my


Single breasted wool, three piece suit; white cotton shirt; Kiton silk necktie & pocket square

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43 Suit of Armour Everyday life requires resiliance and strength of mind, all reinforced by the clothes that we wear.

PHOTOGRAPHY by Vincent Paul Yong/Verve Studios ART DIRECTION by Irene Danesi STYLING by Wardrobe HAIR & MAKEUP by Joey Yap MODEL Alberto Rubio COORDINATION by Aishah Azali august

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Single breasted wool blend sport coat; gingham cotton shirt; cotton trousers; silk nectie & pocket square

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Single breasted wool, three piece suit; white cotton shirt; Kiton silk necktie & pocket square

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Double breasted wool suit; cotton shirt; silk necktie & pocket square

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Double breasted wool suit; cotton shirt; silk necktie & pocket square

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Single breasted wool sport coat; white cotton shirt; navy wool trousers; Kiton silk necktie & pocket square

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Super pima cotton two piece suit; linen shirt; Kiton silk necktie & pocket square

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Single breasted wool sport coat; white cotton shirt; navy wool trousers; Kiton silk necktie & pocket sqaure

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Single breasted cotton sport coat; linen shirt; navy cotton trousers; silk pocket square

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Single breasted wool blend suit; gingham cotton shirt; Kiton silk necktie & pocket square

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BOSS’s CHOICE - WARDROBE Sempione Tre Suit Bag

Your Suit’s Favourite Companion

Canvas suit bags are tough, reliable and ideal for utility. It is easy to dress up or down to match your occasion and it is always the convenient choice when it comes to travelling due to its generousity with space and shape. Wardrobe’s canvas bags are from the Sempione range and the canvas and cotton is made in the Biella area of Italy. The combination of specially treated cotton fabrics and top quality 56

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“vegetable-tannery” leather creates a colonial, vintage look which ages beautifully over time. The bags are entirely handmade, from handcutting the leather parts down to rib stitching. The lining of the bag is Vitale Barberis Canonico fabric which is waterproof, stain-resistant and ripstop. You don’t have to worry about the zippers, locks and keys tarnishing as well, as  they are anti-oxidant and anti-rust. Words by Vivian Tan Photograph by Soon Lau/ShowUp Pictures


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Words by Fik Shah Images by Getty

Small details that have impact. That’s what separates icons from everyone else. Here are six simple tips that will make the difference.

Man of WAR

1 The Dimple

2 The Pocket Square

The Pocket Square is a small accessory that can add a new dimension to a solid colour suit. It can also add a bit of interest to your appearance without trying too hard. It originated in ancient Greece where wealthy Greeks carried around perfumed hankies as early as

The tie dimple is a beautiful effect that can be achieved with almost any Four-in-hand knots. Right before the last pull is made to tighten the tie, use your thumb and middle finger (Two Finger Pinch) to pinch the tie near the knot to shape a “W”. Tighten your tie and give the dimple a final pinch to secure it in place.

500 B.C. English and French noblemen carried perfumed and embroided hankies in order to cover their noses from the stench of the streets and other people. The purists amongst us believe that a jacket should never be worn without a pocket square in place.

3 Functioning Sleeve Buttons The sleeve button has its function besides looking good on suits. Instead of taking off your jacket, they allow you to roll up your sleeves, setting the suit apart from the mass produced garments. They stand for bespoke tailoring, defining what is otherwise known as the working sleeve, the working cuff or the surgeon cuff. 58

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4 Lapel Size Options

The “notch” is the opening where the bottom of the collar meets the top of the lapel, usually at a 75 – 90 degree angle. It is often found in singlebreasted suit jackets, blazers and sports coats. The “Peak” is the traditional and the most formal of the lapels and rather common

Flap Pockets vs Besom

in formal wear garments such as tuxedos, tailcoats, double breasted jackets and morning coats. A rounded edge ‘shawl’ lapel is most common on dinner jackets and tuxedos. The different sizes of these suit lapels should follow the type of each individual body frame.

5

Formal jackets such as your tuxedos should have a besom pocket, while the lounge suit, blazers and sports coat commonly will have flap pockets to prevent things from falling out.

6 Trousers Cuffs

With trouser cuffs, it adds weight to the bottom, thus giving a better hang of the trousers. Cuffed trousers are definitely considered the dressier option when wearing a standard suit or the odd trouser, but they are not to appear on black-tie tuxedo trousers or dinner suits. Shorter men should avoid trouser cuffs for it will give the illusion of the legs being cut off. august

Remember that double breasted suits should have trouser cuffs to balance off the added bulk at the top. Flat front trousers should not have cuffs because of the clean, no fuss, streamlined look of the flat front. Therefore, it will be inaccurate to add in another element at the bottom of the trousers.

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Interview by Jack Newberry Photographs by George Cleverly

We spoke to George Glasgow Jr and found out how George Cleverley earned such a prestigious name

Clever Clogs


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The calibre of client list is quite epic. Why do your clients spend more on your bespoke shoes? Our clients buy George Cleverley bespoke shoes for several reasons. Some come to us because they want the perfect fit and something which is handmade and will last over 20 years.  Most shoes are sold in pairs but most people don’t actually have a matching pair of feet.  One foot is always slightly different which RTW (ready-towear) shoes can’t take into account.  There are also clients which want to design something which is totally unique.  They want to have shoes which can’t be found in regular stores and is unique to their specification.  What does “Made in England” mean to you? Made in England means that 100% percent of the shoes, from start to finish, is made in the UK. Many companies around the world claim to have their products Made in England or Made in Italy but only a small part of the process is done in those countries. 100 percent of George Cleverley shoes is made in England from start to finish.   There is a plethora of luxury European shoe brands in the market. Why do your clients choose George Cleverley over these mega brands? We are one of the only family run shoemaking businesses in the world which actually make bespoke shoes by hand.  Most of the other brands have been bought by large luxury companies, and when you buy George Cleverley, the price is reflected in the product.  When you buy products which are owned by large groups, people question how much of the retail price goes to the product rather than the advertising, flagship stores, PR departments e.t.c..  Dedication to a trade seems to be a less popular direction for the young and aspirational these days. What was your approach to your career, how did you get started? I have been in shoemaking my whole life.  My father is the Chairman of George Cleverley and he has been in the business for over 40 years.  I grew up with shoes and I feel it’s important to have your heart in a business rather than your pocket.  The product should be the focus when it comes to shoemaking, especially when you have a reputation like we have at George Cleverley.   What advice can you give our readers when it comes to pairing shoes with suits? Always start with something basic and classic.  This will normally be a timeless piece such as an oxford or semi-brogue shoe but it will last you for over 20+ years and won’t go out of fash62

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Clients List Rudolph Valentino Sir Winston Churchill Lawrence Olivier Gary Cooper Twiggy Sir John Geilgud Sir Ralph Richardson Clark Gable The Duke of Bedford Edward G.Robinson Sir Jackie Stewart Terence Stamp Lennox Lewis Ralph Lauren Humphrey Bogart Daniel Day-Lewis Charlie Watts Alexander McQueen The Duke of Beaufort Baron Alexis de Redé Bryan Ferry Sir Elton John Michael Chow Tom Wolfe Mark Birley Earl of Lichfield Viscount Linley Prince Rupert zu Loewenstein Sir Kenneth Branagh Mickey Rourke Jason Statham Laurence Graff Alex Rodriguez Keith McNally

From Top Russian leather briefcase; Gladstone hunting kitbag; George Cleverley in his natural environment


We are one of the last families running a shoemaking business in the world which actually makes bespoke shoes by hand

ion. Stay with either black calf or dark brown calf.  This will let a lot of wear and will pair nicely with most suits. What is the process that goes into making a single pair of shoes? The process is lengthy.  Just to make one pair of bespoke shoes at George Cleverley takes approximately 90 man hours.  There are between four to five people who make one pair, and all specialise in one part of the shoemaking process. Each part of the shoemaking process takes approximately five years to learn. The first part starts with the measuring and last making. This is very important as it’s the foundation of the shoes. The fit has to be right!  From there we go to cutting, closing, making & finishing. The first pair of George Cleverley shoes takes approximately six to nine months to make as a fitting will be required.   How long can your shoes last for before they need replacing? It really depends on how much you wear them and how often they are re-soled.  It’s very common for our shoes to last 30+ years.  The shoes are made in such a manner that they can be re-soled many times.  I just got a pair back for repair last week in New York which were made in 1968.  All of our shoes are dated inside.  What is the most unusual order you have ever received? We receive unique orders all the time but one that stands out is a vicuna cashmere slipper.   What is next for George Cleverley? The same as the past 50+ years.  We will continue to make the most fabulous shoes in the world with the focus being on our product and fit.  We plan to continue as a family run business for the next generation.   Where can I get a pair in KL? We visit Singapore twice a year to hold trunk shows at The Four Seasons Hotel.  You can also purchase our shoes from Mr. Porter (mrporter.com) who ship all over the world within two days.   august

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Wardrobe Woman

K a t e

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Words by Fay Khoo Illustration by Tyler Tee

From her rise to fame, her size zero frame and her tempestuous love affairs, Kate Moss will always be remembered as the rebel in the fashion modeling world. More than any other supermodel, with the ex-

ception of perhaps Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss has always lived her life with a ‘take no prisoners’ approach. She doesn’t complain, and she has certainly never explained her behaviour, which may have made her persona non grata at the height of the cocaine allegations, but the irrefutable fact remains that Kate Moss’ career has endured long after those of her peers have been snuffed out, not with a bang, and with barely a whimper. You could reasonably argue that controversy feeds the insatiable curiosity of the public, but let’s not forget that when she was first found, many critics dismissed the whole waif phenomenon that Moss represented as merely that, a transient fad. And yet here we are, 25 years into a remarkable career that has experienced no interruptions from marriage or other diversions, with earnings of USD9.2 million in 2012 that landed Moss the second spot on the Forbes top earning models list. At the age of 40, with her star still enjoying a spectacular trajectory with no signs of petering out in an industry with a notoriously short shelf life, just what does Kate Moss represent that makes us insatiable for more? Outside of the well-documented facts—Moss’s discovery at the age of 14 in working class Croydon, UK, her meteoric rise to fame, her size zero frame that has sparked an unending debate about the acceptability of heroin chic—Moss has always been very reserved. Despite a private life that has seen tempestuous love affairs with rock stars like Pete Doherty and bad boys like Johnny Depp, Moss has never defended her actions, making no secret of her proclivity for the party scene. But while it’s easy to judge, it should be remembered that Moss was barely an adolescent when she entered the vicious world of modeling. In a rare interview with Vanity Fair, Moss said ”When I was 15, 16, I was always on my own, and I think that probably made me very vulnerable… But I just did it. I’d get in the cab… go to the station… get on a plane to get… to Paris”.

And it would be this just-do-it attitude that would lead to Moss working with virtually every big name in the industry, and to her receiving a Special Recognition award in December at the 2013 British Fashion Awards in acknowledgement of her contribution to the fashion industry, as model, muse and lately fashion designer with contracts to design bags for French house Longchamp and with eponymous fashion lines for Top Shop. Her ability to throw together sartorially brilliant looks with apparent nonchalance has led to entire clothing lines being made out of her outfits, which is hardly surprising, considering she has been an unerringly on-point style icon since the Supermodel era of the 90s. One of her long-standing collaborators and friends, by whom Moss incidentally stood up for when he was ostracised by the fashion community for an ill-considered scandal, John Galliano has said that “she can tell couturiers about the line, what one should be doing, what will and won’t work. And we listen! She is the only real muse I’ve ever had. Actually creative, creating with me.” The Kate Moss irony is that where others would have withered and died, she has this uncanny ability to bounce back from adversity, each time stronger, more beloved, and invariably garnering more lucrative contracts, and making yet more money. Or perhaps it’s simply because, in an era of excessive self-disclosure, it’s intoxicating to find a public personality who is so entirely disinterested in self-promotion, or in vindicating her actions, that has made Kate Moss so captivating to us. Whatever the reasons—and I suspect there are many—one fact remains inarguable: that she will continue to beguile and enchant us with her magical charisma, and somehow we know Moss is speaking the absolute truth when she says in her typically disarming manner that while she is “settled… with my dog and my husband and my daughter… but don’t burst the bubble. Behind closed doors, for sure I’m a hell-raiser.” august

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Wardrobe The Icon

Nonchalance can be an intriguing or frustrating personality trait. But no matter how you view it, being cool is something you either have or you don’t. Steve McQueen undeniably had that quality whether in the characters he portrayed or his general off-screen self 68

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Nonchalance can be an intriguing or frustrating personality trait. But no matter how you view it, being cool is something you either have or you don’t. Steve McQueen undeniably had that quality whether in the characters he portrayed or his general off-screen self. His coolness was enigmatic and yet appealing to many even after his untimely death. What is irrefutable is that the man had great taste. Be it his taste in style, taste in automobiles and even his choice of women. s uav e i n s t y l e - His polished yet casual style was a breath of fresh air in the 1960s which propelled him to the top of the men’s style barometer. Bringing sartorial style back to the silver screen, McQueen dressed up for his role of mastermind millionaire executive Thomas Crown in the 1968 film The Thomas Crown Affair. He got help from Savile Row’s finest tailor, the legendary Dougie Hayward who fitted him into immaculate plaid three-piece suits. The bespoke suits had a classic British feel which was contemporary for that era of the swinging sixties in London. The tailoring exuded wealth and power with the help of accessories like the mother-of-pearl cufflinks, the slightly puffed grey pocket square and that gold Patek Philippe pocket watch. Granddad chic is the not-so-fabulous name appointed to a style which has been resurrected back into the trends of today. It was McQueen who was responsible for making the style iconic though his 1968 film Bullitt. Lieutenant Frank Bullitt was an unforeseeable enforcer who was willing to break the rules in order to get the job done. He was fearless, the example of an anti-hero and the wardrobe reflected this. With the help of costume designer Theadora Van Runkle who meticulously blended casual separates to form a rakish but nevertheless rebellious look, McQueen set the pace for an era and remains an iconic inspiration to men today.

Words by Aishah Azali Sketches by Penncakes Photographs by Getty

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FACTS/MOVIES 1 - The Blob was the first movie in which Steve had the starring role. 2 - He was inducted into the Motorcycle Hall of Fame in 1999. 3 - He was a pallbearer for his friend, Bruce Lee’s funeral. 4 - Frank Bullitt was Steve’s favourite role. 5 - He turned down roles in Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, Dirty Harry and Ocean’s Eleven. 6 - In the film Le Mans, Steve McQueen himself, a championship racer, did most of his own driving on the harrowing 8.5 mile Le Mans course - often at speeds exceeding 200 miles per hour. 7- He died on November 7, 1980 in Mexico. 8 - Steve was cremated and his ashes scattered in the Pacific Ocean.

Those casual separates included knitwear, which were present in everything from cardigans to turtlenecks, paired with structured outerwear. At first, it may look like something a male librarian would wear instead of a law enforcer, but with McQueen’s toocool-for-school attitude, he manages to look rugged. Lastly, no one can write about McQueen’s style without mentioning those tortoiseshell Persol sunglasses with the collapsible body. These beautiful accessories came in the signature blue-tinted lens custom-made by Hollywood’s bespoke optician Dennis Roberts. Notably, McQueen wore his Persols off-screen as well, opting for the 649 Persol model which closely resembled the 714 he wore in Thomas Crown.

- Besides being an actor, McQueen was known for his love of all things automobile. Not only did he love it, he could ride it, and ride well he did. His love affair with motorcycles became stronger during two and half years of desert riding in California along with the many adventures with his racing buddies, Bud and Dave Ekins. The strength of their friendship can be justified by the fact that McQueen and the Ekins brothers rode together as the first American Silver Vase team to compete in the 1964 International Six Days Trial (ISDT) in Germany. The most famous type of motorcycle associated with McQueen was the one he used in both the ISDT and in the renowned motorcycle chase scene in the 1963 movie, the Great Escape. We are talking about the famous Triumph TR6 Trophy. Towards the climax of the film, numerous 1961 Triumph TR6 Trophy models were disguised as German BMW R75 motorcycles. McQueen did much of the riding for the film himself although Bud Ekins performed the famous jump scene as McQueen’s stunt double.

wild on wheels

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Four-wheelers signified the apex of McQueen’s popularity in cinema because it was in line with his natural love for auto racing. He owned many fast cars, a 1963 Ferrari 250 GT Lusso and 1953 Siata Spyder but had particular fondness for his barely streetable XKSS Jaguar roadster, which he liked to pilot speedily along the serpentine on Mulholland Drive high above Los Angeles. No one can


Beautiful things don’t ask for attention and in the case of Steve McQueen, attention was something he never seeked. And that’s exactly what makes him beautiful

STYLE McQueen Signatures

Structured Outerwear paired with knitwear

Tortoiseshell Persol sunglasses with collapsible body with signature blue-tinted lens

Knitted Turtleneck paired with structured outwear

say McQueen without mentioning the famous moss green 1968 Ford Mustang 390 GT Fastback which he speedily cut corners with in his action film Bullit. The movie catapulted McQueen to another stratosphere of stardom and set the bar for brilliantly executed car chasing scenes in films. McQueen will forever be signified as the ‘king of cool’ but he should also be accredited for being one

tasteful human being. It might be hard to relate elegance with the rough character of Steve McQueen, but it is undeniably present in him. He just did not flaunt it in a grandiose movie star kind of way. It is like that saying; ‘beautiful things don’t ask for attention’ and in the case of Steve McQueen, attention was something he never seeked. And that’s exactly what makes him beautiful. august

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“Sam: “You—you greatly overestimate my self-control.” Grace: “I’m not looking for self-control.”

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Romance a gentleman’s guide to

five interesting things to know on a date 1. notice her - If you really take the time to think about it, being romantic is mostly common sense, and it starts with the most basic principle - notice everything she does, and make the occasional reference to it. This can be anything - her hair, her shoes, favourite song, movie, book, food, whatever it is, just make sure to notice and retain that info. It may seem like a small thing but it makes a huge difference because it shows that you’ve been paying attention. By following this first rule, you automatically cancel out 85 percent of the reasons most arguments start. 2. restaurants are way better than picnics Sometimes men try to be clever and suggest silly things like picnics as a romantic gesture. Maybe they think the day might end up in hot sex under a pretty tree or something. This is a horrible idea. In this climate? Are you insane? How romantic can you possibly be when you’re pouring sweat! Please avoid this disaster and instead take her somewhere nice like Cantaloupe and stay sweat-free while wolfing down some foie gras, throwing out cheesy lines like “Wow, I forget how beautiful KL can be sometimes.” (Everything looks better when you’re 23 floors up, sweetie) 3. discover your movie-self abroad - Romantic getaways were designed for one purpose - so you can get in touch with your ‘movie-self’. Your movie-self is who you imagine yourself to be in a romantic movie. Your movie-self dresses better, is suave, never disagrees and above all things, loves

Words by Gavin Yap Illustration by Amin Daud

foreplay. Throw in a lush sandy white beach, an Italian countryside or a Parisian village as a backdrop and you’ll be pretty damn unstoppable. 4. never get drunk before she does - Men are simple creatures. We say and do silly things all the time. This is multiplied by a thousand when alcohol is present. Taking a lady out for a drink is by no means a bad thing - just make sure you don’t let your nerves get the better of you by knocking back more than you can handle. Believe me, I’ve been there and it’s not pretty. To avoid this from happening, I would suggest taking her for drinks at the Helipad at Heli Lounge Bar located at the top of Menara KH. A healthy irrational fear of falling off a high-rise straight to your death is always an effective way to stay sober. 5. celebrate past moments - Relationships are built on moments but it’s easy to let these moments fade off into the past. This is death. Sometimes to get excited about the future, you need to celebrate what’s come before. Now this doesn’t need to be complicated, it can be as simple as recreating your first date for your anniversary or having a laugh over what you both thought of each other when you first met. Cliché as it sounds, communication is key. When you get pass all the gifts and holidays and commercialised romanticism, you realise that sometimes the most romantic thing you can do is tell someone how much they mean to you and how your life is all the richer from them being a part of it.

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Wardrobe Travel

Making Your Mark: Yachting Isn’t Just For Words by Carla Sapsford Newman

If you thought that owning a yacht was only for billionaires, you might be surprised. Although not for the financially faint-hearted, owning your own yacht is not out of reach for increasing numbers of affluent Malaysians. Why only experience what yachting is like in the movies or the pages of a society magazine? Yachts offer both the option of privacy for the media-shy and exposure for those wanting to flaunt 74

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a bit of their own success with unique flair. Once you’re out on the open sea, imagine you’re on your own private sun deck socialising with your family and friends. Or think back to all those shipboard romance movies of your youth, where couples could stand on their own private terrace overlooking the horizon and watch the sun go down whilst sipping champagne. Or recall recent Wall Street movies, where the captains of capitalism would


Wall Street Wolves Anymore

entertain clients and seal billion-dollar deals from the hot tub on the top deck. No matter your fantasy escape, there is a yacht that can meet all these aspirations – the MCY86. Port Dickson’s very own Simpson Marine is offering elite Malaysians the lifestyle they’ve always dreamt of. We recently caught up with Richard Allen, Group Sales Manager at Simpson Marine in Hong Kong and Simon Theseira, their local broker.

The attraction is the escapism of being able to get away from the crowds, and do something with friends and family

a lifestyle choice - In the past few years yacht sales have picked up considerably. A possible explanation? Not only are more Malaysians doing better, they want to live better too. Richard Allen summed it up. “Privacy and freedom - it’s a lifestyle thing. Most of these guys work very hard in busy environments. The attraction is the escapism of being to get away from the crowds, and do something with friends and family.” august

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In Asia a lot of owners use their boats as an extension of business

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Phang Nga Bay

GULF OF THAILAND

Phuket Phi Phi Islands

THAILAND

Rok Yai Rok Noi

Koh Lanta Koh Ha Yai

ANDAMAN SEA

Koh Tarutao

Langkawi Pulau Rebak

Pulau Tuba Pulau Dayang

MALAYSIA

Suggested Route: Malaysia > Thailand

Some might assume owning a yacht would tie one down. Not so, says Allen. “The advantage is, it’s like a floating condo but with a captain. You can take it to Phuket this weekend, or Koh Samui. That’s the great thing about it!” a unique statement - Allen says that Malaysian customers are looking for a unique experience that reflects their personalities and lifestyle. Enter the latest addition to the Simpson Marine fleet: the exclusive and highly customizable MCY86. It is a testament to the sleek and sexy design that the MCY86 is attracting both younger men and older businessmen to buy its unique brand of power, style and comfort. Allen said Malaysians are no different from any other successful group. “It’s a status thing to own your own yacht, but with businessmen, it’s also about rivalry and having a bigger boat than their competitors.”

- What corporate jets were to in the nineties, the yacht is to 2014. Allen breaks it down. “In Asia a lot of owners use their boats as an extension of business. They use it for corporate events, meetings and entertaining clients. These clients don’t want big owner’s cabins - they want TV lounges, board rooms and sofas.” Malaysian captains of industry and high society are also seeking privacy. Their clients are no different. Says Allen, “people see the advantages of a boat, and want to get away from the noise and crowds. It’s a benefit to have a yacht in a nice climate and to get to places inaccessible by road.”

good for business

- Richard Allen outlines the allure of the Monte Carlo range of yachts. “It’s the super yacht division of the Beneteau Group. It’s an Italian company. They wanted to be a bit different from all the other super yacht manufacturers.” The MCY86 is their latest model, and has been taking Asia by storm. Allen explains, “The way they build them is different from any other. With modular construction, they can be customised to the owner’s requirements quite easily.”

the monte carlo range

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Ergonomic luxury; interiors that will make you forget you are at sea

how to get started - Richard Allen said that the av-

erage outlay for an MCY86 is only five million ringgit. “You would have a captain and a mate and crew. At Simpson Marine, we have a big service department.” For potential owners, Simpson has thought of everything to help make the decision easy, offering a yacht care programme. Owners pay a monthly amount and Simpson take care of everything on the boat for them. The boat is fully provisioned, the crew is there, and any maintenance work has been done. Owners can either hire a permanent crew or just get them on board as they need them. Simpson extends its services far beyond just delivering a yacht. “We offer quite a lot of training for the captain. He even goes to the factory when the boat is being built. Then he spends up to a month sea trialing, so he’s familiar with all the systems before it arrives.” Some new owners even take a long cruise around the Mediterranean before their beautiful new yachts are delivered to Malaysia.

Some new owners even take a long cruise around the Mediterranean before their beautiful new yachts are delivered to Malaysia

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a unique way to distinguish oneself - Theseira explains that a yacht is a special dream for Malaysians. “Everybody in Asia has a fancy car or a fancy villa in Bali. Yet very few people have a yacht. This is the next step towards the higher profile. To own a vessel in Asia, is a status symbol and is absolutely different from the rest. A yacht will definitely speak volumes about your wealth and take you places where others cannot access, like very private islands.”


What sets the MCY 86 apart, he says, is that it focuses on the forward section for entertaining. “You can make it more corporate, with more seating areas than accommodation. So basically Monte Carlo is open to accepting designs from the end users and integrating them into the vessel. This is not normal for other yacht manufacturers.” local buyer trends - Simon Theseira knows the Malaysian buyer well. “The profile would be very high profile clients in Malaysia, usually CEOs of multinational companies. They are using it as a private/corporate vessel for both family and business. They will probably keep it either in Port Dickson, Penang or Johor Bahru. When the cruising season comes into play November-February, they probably will shift the boat up to Langkawi or Phuket.” Theseira had some practical advice for the potential new buyers. “This is a very niche market, very much focused on people who have tasted the lifestyle. Not many Malaysians have done that before. It would be a new adventure for them! We would encourage people from all levels, especially up and coming businessmen, to try out a charter first to see if they like boating in the area.” Chartering a boat is a relatively small commitment, of only 20-30K USD a week. “This would allow them to understand the boating and also the culture of boating in the area. It is a safer way to find out about a boat than buying one.”

Each yacht is treated by designers like any other prestigious living space

- Richard Allen said Malaysia is riding a wave. “The market is growing in Southeast Asia. It is not as outrageous as they thought from preconceptions.” So if visions of a boat and everything she represents are beckoning you, why not try on the MCY86.

what’s trending in asia

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BOSS’s CHOICE - CORDUSIO Bag

Leather Bags

For those who admire the timeless elegance of classic style, Wardrobe has a selection of fine quality bags for you to choose from. The leather that is used to craft these luxurious Cordusio lines are from Tuscany, Italy. This is an area that has been home for master leather tanners for generations. What makes the bags special is that, very few manufacturers use natural tumbled leathers. Most other manufacturers prefer to use printed leathers because it is easier to handle and gives a lower percentage of discards. 80

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Wardrobe only select the higher end of “tumbled leather” available on the market. The lining in each bag is exclusively Vitale Barberis Canonico fabric, which are specially treated and waterproof, stain-resistant and riptop. The metallic details for the zippers, locks, and keys are finished with an anti-oxidant/anti-rust treatment and galvanised in a bath of precious metal palladium or gold which ensures a permanently even colour over time. Wardrobe’s exclusive leather bags are all handmade.  Words by Fik Shah Photograph by Soon Lau/ShowUp Pictures


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Wardrobe Automobile

Brute IN A Suit The Z/28 is the leanest, meanest version of the Camaro to leave Chevrolet’s factory floor, and yes the slash matters. Words by Aswan Yap Photographs by Chevrolet

From left to right Sporty rear view of the new Z/28; design comparison between two Chevrolet models; the fierce yet stylish Z/28

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Despite their inherent racing prowess, it’s diffi-

cult to imagine the Americans focusing on finesse and balance when developing a high performance car. Most results tend to lean heavily in favour of high horsepower, with little regard for the other aspects of a proper performance car. Then there are those who refuse to follow the herd. The engineers at Chevrolet decided to take a more holistic approach in developing the Z/28, Chevrolet’s race-inspired version of their mass-market Camaro. The Z/28 gets a stronger set of brakes, a wider set of tyres, a more competent suspension package; these are all things you’d expect from a performance variant. But there’s more to the Z/28 than that. It helps to keep in mind that the Z/28 isn’t the most powerful Camaro available from Chevrolet. No, that title is held by the Camaro ZL1, which sports a supercharged version of the LS3 engine in the Camaro SS for a total of 580 bhp. The Z/28 stays all-engine, avoiding the use of forced induction, with the benefit of weight reduction and engine response. At the heart of the Z/28 is a race-developed LS7 engine, in all its 7.0 litres of glory. It beats to the tune of 500 bhp, which is roughly 80 bhp more than the Camaro SS. Despite being down on power against the ZL1, the Z/28 is quicker around the Nurburgring Nordschleife (of all the places to test an American car) by a neat four seconds. If you imagine the ZL1 to be someone who goes for the odd Sunday morning jog, the Z/28 can be likened to an Olympic athlete. All in, the Z/28 is 136 kilograms lighter than the ZL1, for a

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curb weight of around 1700 kilograms. That’s a little more than your average German hot hatchback, but with more than double the power at your disposal. When reducing a car’s weight in the pursuit of performance, creature comforts are the first to go. Some of the sound insulation gets chucked out, the rear window is a little thinner, and in some places even the emergency tire inflator kit is removed just for that little bit of weight saving. It’s a harsh place to be, and yet it would feel right at home on a racetrack or a trunk road. The 6-speaker system is replaced by a single speaker, but let’s face it: any music you have probably pales in comparison to the rumble of that V8 motor up front. No air-conditioning to be found here either, a nod to the track-focused cars that come out of Germany from time to time. If you really don’t fancy giving up these comforts, you can have them kept in for a small fee. But it seems almost antithetical to do so with a Z/28. Chevrolet adjusted aerodynamics in favour of more down-force, allowing the Z/28 to stay invariably planted on the tarmac at higher speeds. The expense here is extra drag: the Z/28 is a little bit wider and chunkier than it’s brethren, meaning it has to work a little bit harder to slice through the air ahead. The combination of weight reduction and aerodynamic trickery has resulted in a car that handles in a more predictable manner at high speeds, being able to both brake later, and carry more speed through a corner. It’s the kind of invaluable advantage you seek when you’re attacking the track.

Below Infamous Camaro generation line up


£ 75,000 Cost

180 mph Max speed

1700 kg

At the heart of the Z/28 is a race-developed LS7 engine, in all it’s 7.0 litres of glory

Weight

500 bhp Engine

Z/28 Model

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INTERVIEW WITH Zen

How to become A Race car driver

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Interview by Aishah Azali


Racing cars is an exhilarating hobby. But what if you want to turn that hobby into an actual career? Well we asked a professional race car driver for all the details. To become a race car driver seems like an answer a kid would give when their teacher asks them about their ambitions. But adults too, have this dream, and it is not an impossible one if you know what to do. So we asked an actual professional racer – Zen Low - to guide us on the steps to becoming a race car driver. Zen is currently a GT racer for Team FXPrimus Aylezo and JH Italia - Lamborghini Malaysia who has participated in races like the GT Sprint, Formula Vauxhall Single Seater and the ongoing Lamborghini Blancpain Super Trofeo series representing Malaysia. We talked to him on the different options as well as the skill set needed to become a pro racer.

Do you have to start young when it comes to racing? Yes, ideally you want to start as young as possible. Take Europe as an example, a lot of parents start their kids around eight years old. But they can’t drive at that age. They can, believe me. At eight years old, they start carting. They are pretty quick. So they start at around eight years old and then they progress and move all the way to about 17. From there, they switch to formula cars. When it comes to racing, is there a specific training one has to take, regardless of age? Training is a must basically. When you are young and you get into a cart and race, you build up your body muscle because it is the best way to train a driver and it’s the closest thing you can get to a race car. So when you drive a lot, your body will develop memory muscle and you become fit. But other than that, you need to do various types of exercises like mountain biking or swimming to give you additional strength.

What about licenses? You need to start with a novice license. Every country has a local base, basically a governing body to represent FIA (Federal International Automobile). They are the people who will then provide you a local license for you to start racing locally. From there, you progress and you start as a national racer. After one year you can upgrade your license to National B or something like that - every country is different then eventually you apply for International C which is the minimum requirement to pro race outside your country. If I wanted to start a racing career, is my first action to buy a car? No, but for the wealthy people, yes. People that have money that is, normally think that way. Even today, there are plenty of them, they’ll grab the fastest car and go racing but that‘s the wrong way to start. You won’t get any results. To go into racing you need to go stage by stage. You have to build up your skills before you move on.

So if a person does not have the financial means, how do they begin a race car driving career? For those who don’t have the money, the way to start is basically to engage or equip yourself with mechanical knowledge. The easiest way to do it is to look for a race team, a smaller race team that doesn’t have a lot of funds. So pick a smaller team, approach them and say “I’m willing to offer free services to the team”. Don’t be picky; whatever job they give you, like cleaning tires and pushing the carts, do it because that’s the opportunity. Show them how committed you are and anytime there is an opportunity to drive, make sure you put yourself there. What about for the people that have the financial means? For chequebook racing, it is easy. You can just write yourself a cheque and buy yourself a race car and hire all the top people and you can have a team straight away, overnight. But that does not guarantee results. You need to be skillful and there are stages where you need to learn how to drive the car also. It is best you start from the lower level and work your way up. Ok, let’s say you just started out with a team, how do sponsorships come your way? Normally in the beginning, you need to go look for them. But how to look for them, you need to start winning. If you are not on the podium, they are not interested and it may take some time before sponsors come knocking at your door. Is it crucial for aspiring race car drivers to understand race car mechanics? Well there are two types of drivers; those with the mechanical knowledge and the other being (drivers) with pure talent but does not necessarily have mechanical knowledge. But for that kind of driver (the latter), it is very difficult for the engineer to work with them. Simply because when he gets out of the car, the engineer is going to ask “Can we improve it to make it go faster for you?” If you don’t have the mechanical knowledge, you can’t explain to him because you don’t know the terms, you just know how to drive. That’s where the limitation is. Racing cars are more than just speed and speedy automobiles, it requires a skill set and a sense of determination to succeed. Now that you have an idea on the roads that can be taken to start a race car driving career, we say God speed!

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Words by Aishah Azali Illustration by Penncakes

The Everything Body Language Book by Shelly Hagen

BOOK

You can read anyone’s body language – if you know how and where to look. Master the art of nonverbal communication and you’ll unlock the

secrets of everyone you meet – yourself included. Learn everything from the basics of nonverbal communication from hands, expressions and posture to business body language.

NONVERBAL COMMUNICATION There is more to communication than words. What you don’t say out loud through facial expressions, posture and eye contact, is just as important in conveying your message effectively.

1. Windows to the Soul Good eye contact can make lasting impression and show that you are concerned or focused in the situation. The holding of eye contact can be a daunting task, and figuring out how long to hold and where to look away can cause one to turn shifty eyed. The trick is steady, consistent eye contact combined with well-timed breaks. During breaks, opt for gazing down or to the side rather than upward which gives off an uninterested vibe. 2. Dress with Finesse In his book, You Are What You Wear, William Thourlby states: “When you step into a room, decisions will be made solely upon your appearance; so to be successful, and to be sure decisions are favourable, keep in mind that you are what you wear, and dress accordingly.” No, you cannot judge credentials and work success on attire, but a person who is dressed appropriately and is well groomed can open doors. 3. Position like a Politician To display ones hand and use them during conversation exudes honesty and trust. Politicians like Bill Clinton and Barack Obama rehearse their hand gestures in order to come across as forthcoming and give the impression that they have nothing to hide. Sporadically move your hands when you talk to appear comfortable and candid, while avoiding moves like making a fist and finger pointing. 4. Shake It Like You Mean It Handshakes give a critical first impression and when done correctly, it can make one seem powerful. The core of the handshake is the grip, administering the same pressure received and always offering their palm in a vertical position. Strategic contact on the elbow while giving a handshake creates assurance and may help getting what one wants. 5. Rise to the Occasion What people tend to dismiss is that posture starts with the spine and ends with the toes of one’s feet. Try squaring your shoulders and angle your body towards the person you are talking to. Legs can be flat on the floor or crossed. But when crossing, avoid jiggling your foot because it is a sign of nervousness.

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BOSS’S CHOICE - La Perla Paisley Body

The Ultimate Gift

A gift of jewellery may imply generosity, but the sensuality of lingerie as a present is inarguable. Forget overtly sexy garters and barely there G-strings, it’s exquisitely designed brands like La Perla that women will treasure (and reward you for in the bedroom later!). Romantic but elegant, and hinting at the sexuality of the body that lies beneath the lingerie, La Perla as a gift yields Words by Fay Khoo Photograph by La Perla

the same feminine excitement that an eggshell blue box from Tiffany would. Founded in 1954 by corsetiere Ada Masotti — known in the trade as Golden Scissors for her uncanny understanding of the female body — La Perla’s lingerie as a present will unequivocally distinguish you as a person with savoir faire, and one who truly understands what women desire.  august

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Wardrobe Nightlife

Forever In a city where amazing sights and history are at the turn of every corner, Le Crazy Horse – named after the famous Sioux Red Indian chief – stands out, as much for its memorable burlesque routines as for its pivotal role in the creative evolution of Paris.

Founded on May 19th, 1951 in a dusty

wine cellar by Alain Bernardin, an avant-garde artist whose passion for women was matched only by his ardent fervour for all things American – hence, the name ‘Crazy Horse’ – Le Crazy Horse’s raison d’etre was clear: to celebrate women and artistic creation, albeit in a most deliciously scandalous fashion. Risque nude burlesque rou-

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tines ran cheek and jowl with musical performances, comedy, mime, juggling, and even magic, and it was during that epoch at the Horse when legendary French singer Charles Aznavour first cut his musical teeth. In fact, Bernadin adored magic precisely because it correlated with his own vision, once saying that “magic is a dream. There’s no show that’s more dreamlike than a magic


Crazy Words by Fay Khoo Photographs by Crazy Horse

The dancers work through a formidable 2,500 pairs of stockings, 500 litres of body makeup and 300 lipsticks made in the signature Rouge Crazy hue each year

show. And what we do with the girls is magic, too, because they aren’t as beautiful as you see them onstage. It’s the magic of light and costumes. These are my dreams and fascinations that I put on stage.” The arrival of pop art and other musical and artistic genres like New Wave in the 1970s posed a challenge. Undeterred, Alain turned obstacle into op-

portunity by revamping his show to reflect the new cultural zeitgeist. Rather than individual performances, each number was conceived instead as a tableau, each characterised by its own distinctive choreography, set, costumes, music and lighting. More than just a stereotypical cabaret, Le Crazy Horse was also a trailblazer in many other areas. A large number of august

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Magic is a dream. There’s no show that’s more dreamlike than a magic show. And what we do with the girls is magic, too, because they aren’t as beautiful as you see them onstage. It’s the magic of light and costumes. These are my dreams and fascinations that I put on stage Alain Bernardin

the original waiters – who used to wear their names on the back of their waistcoats in prominent stitching – held substantial shares in the original company. And despite his conspicuous ardour for women, Bernadin deliberately chose dancers who were homogenous not just in height, but also in body shape and breast size. They were, however, given individual stage names upon joining the cabaret, and their dressing rooms were completely closed to men. When Alain died by his own hand in 1994, his children Sophie, Pascal and Didier took on the legacy of this now internationally renowned revue, and it has since seen such triumphs as a roadshow to Las Vegas, where even in the heartland of glitz, glamour and excess, Le Crazy Horse was celebrated as the crème de la crème. Since then, Le Crazy Horse has had a permanent show at the MGM Grand, consolidating its foothold on the international scene as the revue of choice. 94

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In 2005, when the Bernardin family decided to sell Le Crazy Horse, a company headed by Andrée Deissenberg – who has herself travelled the world with, and launched the international reputation of, the Cirque du Soleil – saw the potential in the legendary venue, and set about creating a renaissance for this institution. According to Deissenberg, the new owners were aware that “it was never a matter of revolutionising Le Crazy Horse… we just had to evolve it, awaken it, make it sparkle again.” And thus in October 2006, the iconic burlesque performer Dita Von Teese set the stage for the newly reinvigorated Le Crazy Horse. She would be the first of many guest stars there. The next year, rising French singer Arielle Dombasle sang songs from her new album, while the Crazy Horse dancers provided a spectacular dance backdrop. In 2008, Baywatch babe Pamela Anderson was invited to perform the seminal Serge

Gainsbourg song ‘Harley Davidson’ atop a Harley and the legend of Le Crazy Horse was forever established. When respected choreographer Philippe Decouflé was recruited, shows like the unforgettable Désirs were created and continue to mesmerise audiences to this day. In its present incarnation, Le Crazy Horse occupies twelve wine cellars that were knocked down and joined into one magnificent space in the formidable Haussmanian building at the Avenue George V. The resident dancers work through a formidable 2,500 pairs of stockings, 500 litres of body makeup and 300 lipsticks made in the signature Rouge Crazy hue each year. It has also been the subject of the documentary Crazy Horse de Paris and it has inspired similarly named (but unaffiliated) clubs in such far-flung destinations as Beirut, Lebanon; South Carolina, USA; Adelaide, Australia; Kaohsiung, Taiwan; and even in the Bronx in New York.


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Wardrobe Mixology

Words by Jack Newberry Photographs by Oxwell and Co

Restaurants are one of the most precarious businesses you could ever imagine getting into. But when you get it right, it’s a dream come true. Oxwell & Co is what dreams are made of. That is, if you dream about stuffing your face with great food and tipple.

In August 2013, Singapore’s most exciting new Food and Beverage concept, Oxwell & Co, will officially open their doors to its public house and dining rooms, located in an iconic shophouse on Ann Siang Hill. The core to Oxwell & Co’s concept is that of an elevated public house, creating a stylish social scene unlike any other in Singapore, whilst maintaining a standard of food and fare on par with the best in the world - all with a touch of British quirk. From artisan wines and handmade spirits, locally foraged ingredients and boutique beers to truly world-class yet humble cuisine, Oxwell

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& Co is a cutting edge institution available for foodies who are after more than just your average tipple and fare. The dining rooms are headed by the UK celebrity chef and restaurateur Mark Sargeant; one of the UK’s leadingculinary talents and Gordon Ramsay’s former executive chef for 13 years. Mark, along with head chef Oisin Coylewill, serve up a menu inspired by modern British dishes that are presented in a sophisticated yet modest style. “I am really excited about this new venture particularly because of the wealth of quality ingredients available in Singapore. At Oxwell & Co, Alex Farrow and I will design menus that will be simple and show off the produce itself. We want to keep the food fuss free but at the same time playful, and as a result hope that Oxwell & Co will stand out as a fun restaurant and bar that diners can visit more than just once a week.” To add to the big names, Oxwell & Co’s General Manager and head bartender is Luke Whearty, the former head of Melbourne-based bar Der Raum - voted the world’s best bar in 2012. Luke is responsible for a world of unique and exclusive beverages, such as house-made spirits distilled with botanicals sourced from the Ann Siang area as well as a house designed beer containing a fusion of local citrus and spices; Oxhorn Lager. “Our aim is not only to embrace the rich culture and history of the area but also to bring something exciting and fresh to the table. From coffee in the morning by Slayer and Nylon coffee roasters, to house made gin and tonics on


A SPECIAL ONE!

From coffee in the morning to house made gin and tonics on tap zin in the evening, there will always be an excuse for people to come pay us a visit

light bulbs suspended above, or sneak tap in the evening, there will always be an excuse for people to come pay us a visit”. The incredible 5,000 square ft space combines stunning architectural features with cutting edge contemporary design to create a truly unique space that nods towards it’s rich history whilst keeping its eyes focused firmly on the future. The interiors contain numerous jawdropping features; drink at the 300 year old Ceylon railway sleeper bar whilst admiring the 100s of vintage light bulbs suspended above, or sneak a peek at Singapore’s first roof-top herb and vegetable garden, built to supply the kitchen and bar. No detail is too small, own-branded furniture, custom glassware and eccentric British touches such as custom oil paintings, Lord Oxwell’s secret den and maybe even a secret door and peep hole... or two! The whole experience is like a trip with Alice to Wonderland.

The Berry & The Bee

Ingredients - Frozen Tarragon Cream - Crystalized Egg Yolk - Fermented Berries - Honey Cake Soil - Tarragon Flowers Inspiration This dish was inspired by a drink we used to make in Melbourne of the same name. The drink came about when we decided we wanted to use wild blackberries in a drink but didn't know what other flavours we wanted to serve it with. When we were out picking the berries we noticed there was wild fennel growing right next to the blackberry bushes. We also noticed a lot of bees pollinating the fennel flowers. We then decided to pair the berries with not only the fennel from the same area but infusing the wild fennel into the bees’ honey. Currently, wild fennel is hard to come by in Singapore so we substituted this for tarragon that we grow in our gardens along with our honey from our own bee hive.

Recipe - Frozen Tarragon Cream - 300g Caster sugar - 500 ml Full Cream Milk - 74g Fresh Tarragon Leaves - 5g Sea Salt - 1 Whole Egg - Seeds of 2 x Vanilla pods - 250 ml Heavy Cream How to 1. Heat 200ml of milk, stir in the tarragon leaves, and let steep for an hour or more. 2. Strain and return the milk to the heat until it is lukewarm. 3. Add the sugar and salt, stirring until the sugar is dissolved.  4. Beat the egg until light and fluffy, and then blend into the milk mixture.  5. Add the remaining milk and cook the custard over low heat until it thickens. Chill.  6. When the mixture has cooled down, stir in the vanilla and cream and place in the freezer. 7. Remove from the freezer every hour and churn with a fork. Do this until a thick ice cream texture is achieved.

august

The drink Mead (First Born) This is a simple honey wine or mead. The technique of fermenting honey and water into mead has been around for generations however for one reason or another it isn't found very often these days. There are many ways and variations to make mead including infusing the mead with fruits or herbs. However the first mead we ever served at Operation Dagger (affectionately named First Born) was simply honey and water left to ferment for two months before bottling. Recipe In a sterilised mason jar combine one part raw honey to four parts water and leave to ferment for two months, stirring daily until natural carbonation stops (usually after about a week or so). Once fermented, make sure to bottle and refrigerate before consuming.

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BOSS’S CHOICE - WARDROBE Linen Shirt

Linen

A linen shirt is one of summer’s most bankable items of clothing, whether for work, the weekend or watching cricket. Men across the world have fallen in love with its easyto-breathe fabric and delicately disheveled appearance. Linen fabric needs less water and chemicals to cultivate as it is very environmental friendly and it promotes a very relaxed and casual feel when wearing it, suitable for weekend or outdoor activities. This particular shirt from Wardrobe is made with a soft and light top grade collar and cuff fusing which does not pucker. The shirt is cut 98

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slightly on the generous side to promote a relaxed feel but never compromising on the fitted look. For a better position on the shoulders, the shirt has a split yoke. A “side-gusset” is added for detail – pieces of fabric sewn into the sides of the shirt at the bottom of the hem for added strength holding the front and back. As in all shirts from Wardrobe, it comes with the mother of pearl buttons which add a whole new dimension of a quality shirt compared to using just plain plastic ones. Pair the shirt up with either cotton trousers or a pair of streamlined jeans.  Words by Fik Shah Photograph by Soon Lau/ShowUp Pictures


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Profile for Wardrobe

Wardrobe #2  

Everyday life requires resilience and strength of mind, all reinforced by the clothes that we wear.

Wardrobe #2  

Everyday life requires resilience and strength of mind, all reinforced by the clothes that we wear.

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