Wanted in Rome - April 2017

April 2017 â‚Ź 2,00

The english language magazine in Rome

where to go in rome

art and culture entertainment GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 9, Numero 4

contents

titolo

no. 4 / APRIL 2017 editorials

BRITONS FIGHT TO RETAIN THEIR RIGHTS Patricia Clough. . . . . . . 2 ROMAN ROADS: PREFIGURING THE WORLD WIDE WEB Martin Bennett. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 CELEBRANCY COMES TO ITALY Clarissa Botsford. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

what’s on

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 classical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 POP, ROCK, JAZZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 OPERA NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Academies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 EASTER. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 CHILDREN. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

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classified columns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 MISCELLANY

MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 art galleries in rome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Wanted in rome junior. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 guide to GARDENS AROUND ROME . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 useful numbers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47

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Next publication and classified dates Next publication dates are 3 May and 7 June. Classified advertisements placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 23 April (for 3 May) and 28 May (for 7 June).

However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine.

Detail of Batracomiomachia

by Gio Pistone Layers of paper and acrylics, May 2016.

See interview page 24. www.giopistone.it

Wanted in Rome office Via di Monserrato 49 - tel/fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

Direttore responsabile: Marco Venturini Editrice: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 Progetto grafico e Impaginazione: Monia Lucchetti - Dali Studio Srl Stampa: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c.

Diffusione: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425.

Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985.

Finito di stampare il 03/04/2017

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Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Feltrinelli International, Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878.

Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102.

Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49.

You can find us on

36 April 2017 | Wanted in Rome

1

BREXIT

Patricia Clough

BRITONS FIGHT TO RETAIN THEIR RIGHTS

British in Italy (BiI) mobilises to safeguard existing EU rights of Britons

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housands of Britons in Italy are worried as to how Brexit – Britain’s leaving the European Union (EU) – will affect their future. Like the three million citizens from EU countries living in Britain – of whom some half a million are Italian – they risk losing the many rights they have enjoyed for years as EU citizens. These include not only residency but also the right to work, access to healthcare, recognition of professional qualifications, pension rights and other issues. Estimates of the number of British citizens in Italy may be as high as 65,000 and many are now mobilising.

“Failure to settle this question before Britain leaves the EU could cause many cases of real hardship,” says Jeremy Morgan QC, spokesman for British in Italy (BiI), the main organisation campaigning to retain these rights.

“For instance, pensioners who are sick may no longer qualify for help from the Servizio Sanitario Nazionale [Italian national health service] and those with pre-existing medical conditions may not be able to get health insurance.

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The British prime minister, Theresa May, finally triggered Brexit at the end of March.

BREXIT

British in Italy (BiI) took part in the March for Europe in Rome on 25 March.

People could lose their livelihoods, or be forced to give up their jobs in order to retrain to qualify for the work they were already doing. And everyone would have to deal with the hassles that constantly face non-EU citizens (extracomunitari).”

BiI aims to ensure that Brexit does not penalise either British or EU citizens, many of whom made the decision to move across the Channel on the reasonable assumption that these rights were permanent. It is working closely with British in Europe, a coalition of similar organisations in Spain, Germany, France, Luxembourg and Belgium, with membership in excess of 30,000, as well as with the3million, the main EU group in the UK. Expat Citizens’ Rights in the EU (ECREU), a larger group founded in France and which claims members in 27 EU countries, also has supporters in Italy.

BiI was founded by three Britons living in Umbria and two in Rome, who

were soon joined by several hundred others who contacted them via their email address britsinitaly@gmail.com, and Facebook. They have a newsletter, obtainable through the email address, and plan to have a website soon.

So far British in Europe and BiI have appealed to the UK government in an alternative white paper to guarantee the rights of the EU citizens in Britain and UK citizens in the EU. Gareth Horsfall, an independent financial adviser in Rome and a member of the committee, has given evidence to the House of Commons committee on exiting the EU. BiI lobbied the UK parliament hard on the Brexit bill and was instrumental in the Lords passing an amendment to protect the rights of those who have moved to the UK, although that was later overturned in the Commons.

It has called on the Italian government to use its influence with EU in-

stitutions to ensure these rights are retained on both sides of the Channel and to deal with British citizens in Italy accordingly. In conjunction with the leader of the Partito Democratico group in the UK, BiI has also lobbied members of the Camera dei Deputati in Rome, who are very interested in the case and hope to form a committee, or commission an existing one, to study the problems Brexit may cause Italians in the UK and British citizens in Italy.

Its members have put their case and outlined their activities to officials at the British embassy in Rome, on the assumption that this will eventually reach the government in London which claims to be trying to find out – some might say belatedly – who British living in the EU actually are and learn their problems.

They took part in the March for Europe in Rome on 25 March.

April 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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BREXIT This is how BiI puts its case for recognition of existing rights: Residence The criteria for the right of residence and for obtaining permanent residence should remain the same as before. Noone should be treated as those from outside the EU (extracomunitari) the day after Brexit.

The little-known requirement that students and people who are not working should have, or have had, private health insurance even in countries like the UK where there is a free national health service should be ignored.

Citizenship It should continue to be awarded on the present criteria. In Italy, for example, UK citizens should still be able to apply for Italian citizenship after four years of residence (the period for EU citizens), not 10 years (the period for non-EU citizens).

Work The right to work without visas, work permits or quotas should remain on both sides of the Channel. Workers should all continue to enjoy equal treatment with nationals of the state where they are living as regards conditions of employment, pay, social security, etc.

future generations. EU students have particularly benefited from being able to study English, the language of modern business, in its country of origin.

Pensioners and other economically inactive people They should continue to have all the same rights as at present, including access to health care under the EU system and, in the case of UK pensioners in the EU, regular increases in the state pension to cover inflation. These rights risk being lost unless the UK can be made to agree to continue to pay for them.

This affects not only UK citizens in the EU but EU citizens who earned their pensions working in the UK and then returned to live in their country of origin. Similar issues face other economically inactive people, such as mothers looking after children and the families of people in work. A major issue here is the continuation of the right of elderly parents to travel cross-Channel to visit and/or live with children established in another country.

None of these rights stands alone.

They are inextricably linked. For example, a right of continued residence is

of no use to a professional if the qualifications he or she needs to earn an income to maintain his or her family are no longer recognised. Nor is a right of residence meaningful for a pensioner who is no longer entitled to the state health system at an age when pre-existing conditions make it impracticable or unaffordable to buy private health insurance.

So far British people living in Italy have been on something of an emotional rollercoaster as news from London, Brussels and elsewhere has alternately spread hope and fear. Theresa May, the British prime minister, while professing sympathy with all concerned, has steadfastly refused to give any guarantee of the rights of EU citizens in Britain, while Eastern European diplomats and politicians have warned they will oppose retaining rights for Britons in the EU unless she does. The House of Lords demanded that the rights of the three million be preserved in an amendment to the Brexit bill, only to have this thrown out by the House of Commons.

One consolation is that Michel Barnier, the EU’s chief negotiator for Brexit, has said that the issue should have priority at the outset of the talks.

Business and professional qualifications Freedom to establish a business should be retained on both sides and – equally important – so should the mutual recognition of professional and other qualifications which, among other things, is essential to the freedom to start a business.

Students A number of issues relating to students need to be addressed if the cross-Channel benefits of schemes such as Erasmus+ are not to be lost to

Patricia Clough of BiI at the March for Europe on 25 March.

April 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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HISTORY

Martin Bennett

ROMAN ROADS: PREFIGURING THE WORLD WIDE WEB Traces of Rome’s ancient road network are still evident today

L

ie awake in my home in Staffordshire and it takes just a little imagination to exchange the swish-swish of traffic along the A38 for Roman legions headed straight as a javelin toward, say, Eburacum/York, their baggage trains rattling behind.

The modern dual carriageway traces

the Ryknild Way, as the road became known after the Romans left. Of course the surface nowadays is asphalt. Yet nearby sections of the original pavimentatum still occasionally re-emerge.

Join the 10,000 miles – Romans measured length in passuum, a mile being a thousand paces – of Roman roads in

The remains of a Roman road in northern England, on the Yorkshire Dales near Bainbridge.

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Britain with the estimated 75,000 or more miles in the rest of the empire, and the network resembles a sort of world wide web of its day. Pliny the Elder noted the road network served both good and bad – as many pundits claim of the internet. He praises it for bringing worldwide unity and then blames it: “By

HISTORY

What remains today of an old Roman mountain pass between Madrid and Segovia in central Spain.

what other means have gold, ivory and precious stones infected common custom?” Scotland to Mesopotamia, Dutch swamp to Saharan desert, all roads led to Rome or emanated from the Forum’s Golden Milestone – actually, a column given its importance. A fragment remains below the Temple of Saturn, the gilded bronze inscribed with distances outward to the empire’s main cities having long vanished. Here at the junction of Via Sacra and Vicus Lugarius is the web’s epicentre.

In terms of scale and usefulness, the pyramids seem puny in comparison.

Admittedly Roman roads were initially military in nature, just as the first packetswitching networks that paved the way for the internet were funded by the US defence department. To paraphrase Edward Gibbon in his History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire: Nor was any country considered subdued till it had been rendered pervious to the arms of the conqueror.

The first consular road, Via Appia, linked Rome with its ally Capua in modern-day Campania, so helping to secure the Roman victory over the Samnites, its erstwhile rival. Decades later, after the defeat of the Greek King Pyrrhus at Asculum in southern Italy (279 BC) Ma-

leventum was added to the route, with a celebratory name change to Beneventum (Benevento).

The roads gave the advantage of speed, but also of information. In imperial times, a state postal service would be set up for use by imperial officials, and later, to cite Gibbon again, “indulged to the conveniency of private citizens.” A letter sent by Emperor Trajan from Bithynia, northern Turkey, is recorded as reaching Rome in nine days, suggesting current postal services have taken something of a step backward.

Cursus publicus, the service was called: a sort of Fedex Express with mutationes, or posting stations, interspersed about every 10 miles and each with 40 horses.

For our motels, envisage mansiones with built-in baths, bank services and a police station.

No wonder Rome’s road-builders were highly esteemed. The epitaph of Appius Claudius Ciecus crowns his achievements as censor and war hero with: “He constructed Via Appia and, by means of canals, brought Rome water.” All the more remarkable given his blindness, one story having him assess the correct gap between new-laid paving stones with his geometrically infallible bare feet.

Via Flaminia, for its part, is named after the consul Gaius Flaminius who built it less to win a war than enrich the peace. Firstly, it connected settlements formed by an agrarian policy distributing land to retired legionnaires. Secondly, as Livy reports, it kept otherwise belligerent minds busy: “To keep the soldiers from inactivity, Flaminius had them build a road from Arezzo to Bologna.” In another inscription an ex-praetor lists miles of roads constructed: ‘To Nocera 51 miles….To Vibo Valentiam 180…’. Emperors also got in on the honorifics. Milestone 74 on Via Appia reads “Caracalla: He remade the road using flagstones..., this for 20 miles and out of his own pocket.”

“To the gods that first conceived paths and roads,” translates a Latin inscription in Swaledale, Yorkshire. One measure of the achievement is that in England, once the Romans left, no engineered road was built until the 1663 Turnpike Act. Gibbon later observes how an imperial envoy would reach Rome faster in 100 AD than he, an English gentleman, could do in 1750.

Richard Bagshawe in his Roman Roads observes that in their calculations Roman surveyors outdid the railway-men of the 19th century. Between April 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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HISTORY Bedford and Wellingborough the Romans managed a road that crossed the river Ouse at just three places, whereas the railway-men needed seven.

“Other considerations show this was little less than miraculous,” wrote Bagshawe. Hardly a county or parish in England does not use a Roman road – or part of it – to set boundaries.

Streatham, Streetly, Stretton, Stratford – the word “street” itself (from via strata) – all pay tribute to Romans’ genius for the straight line.

For Roman road-hunters, or so-called viatores, hedgerows provide a vital clue; as weeds and their seeds lodged between the ancient and abandoned flagstones, many a hedge could be sown without human intervention.

Ensuring directness from A to B, some fords ingeniously had stepping stones embedded with mortar and piles into the river-bed. Meanwhile, back in Italy, Via Appia – Regina Viarum or the queen of roads – boasts an initial 90 km stretch between Ariccia and Terracina virtually without a curve, the Pontine marshes it had to cross notwithstanding.

Elsewhere woodland, much denser than now, would have been cleared either side to a distance of 90 feet. The logistics in road construction are commemorated by the poet Statius. Outlining Domitian’s campaigns, his Silvae, Book IV, has this paean to the division of labour: “How many teams operating at the same moment! Some cut down woods... Others hone stone with iron…”

With feats of surveying mentioned above come those of hydrology and bridge-building and tunnels. As Gibbon puts it, “Mountains were perforated and bold arches thrown across the boldest of streams.” Inscribed across Isola Tiberina’s Ponte Fabricio, the name of its builder, curator viarum Lucius Fabricius, is visible four times over. (Note, as in Ponte Milvio, the small arches in the middle to relieve pressure during flooding.) The foundations of both bridges were in state-of-the-art cement, so that,

Britain had an impressive network of ancient Roman roads, traces of which remain today.

following Rome’s fall, any serious bridge construction – engineering skills having gone into a steep decline – would have to wait until 1886 and the then new Ponte Margherita.

Proceed a few miles north of Via Ponte Milvio and you reach Via Aurelia.

Named after another consul, Gaius Aurelius, its traces a route laid down by the Etruscans long since under the Roman heel. It also, by way of Liguria and Gaul, would become Rome’s link with Britain.

Via Salaria, however, denominates not a person but a product. The road was once a track serving Sabina’s saltbeds at the source of the Tiber, later extended into an expressway to the Adriatic. Another road to denote destination is Via Tiburtina, after Tibur/

modern Tivoli. In rush-hour today many a Cotral bus moves along it slower than the elephants Vespasian used to haul travertine from a roadside quarry to build the Colosseum.

Via Casilina (formerly Latina), Cassia, Ostiense, Clodia, Nomentana, to cite others – majestically roll off the tongue.

Along another road – Via Prenestina – an early morning biker sets the tarmac on a roar. Lolling in bed eight floors above, I picture him in Palestrina (once Praeneste) in time for breakfast.

Then, vroom, a few rapid eye movements later, there he is again, burning up the milestones, even to Ephesus, modern or ancient. Or to some other node at the edges of what would have once been the known world.

April 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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RITES

Clarissa Botsford of Passaggi celebrates a civil wedding at the Campidoglio in Rome.

Clarissa Botsford

CELEBRANCY COMES TO ITALY Independent celebrants provide Rome residents with non-religious rites of passage

A

few years ago, Giorgio’s wife died unexpectedly. Neither member of the couple was religious, and Giorgio didn’t want a church funeral. Nothing else was offered or suggested, and he was too beset with grief to try and organise an alternative ceremony himself. Giorgio, with some family and friends, followed the hearse to the crematorium in Rome’s Prima Porta cemetery on Via Flaminia. They stood in the hot summer sun in the car park while waiting for the attendant to take the coffin.

The family was told to leave the flowers at the gate. Not only did the occasion lack any hint of ritual but the mourners were forced to endure the ugly brutality of the scene. There are no niceties at Rome’s crematorium.

Bodies are left unceremoniously outside and you are told to return to pick up the ashes about three weeks later.

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Wanted in Rome | April 2017

Rachel and her Roman husband wanted to have a civil wedding as they weren’t religious, so they arranged to get married at the city council venue near the Baths of Caracalla. Rachel, who is Australian, didn’t realise that the ceremony in Italy would be so dry, and was shocked to discover that it consisted of a mere reading of the law.

The couple and their friends were not given any welcome and no effort was made by the officiant to make any sort of personal references. They both felt the ceremony was disappointing.

Experiences such as these are why the cultural association Passaggi was founded in 2014. Passaggi provides celebrants to create and officiate personalised non-religious ceremonies in English, Italian, or both, for baby namings, vow renewals, weddings and funerals in Rome, Lazio, Umbria and Campania.

However, people wanting a wedding or a funeral will always have to follow the strict legal procedures. Weddings are only formally legalised when they are signed by a state registrar. The couple can perform the legal marriage at the local registry office before or after the symbolic celebrant wedding. Some couples can arrange for a registrar to come to the location they have chosen (if it is a venue approved the city) and perform the legalities before or after the ceremony by Passaggi. Or the couple can ask the celebrant to get a delega or authorisation from the city marriage office (which takes over two months as it is discretionary on the mayor’s part).

Rites of Passage: a historical and anthropological view As western society has become more variegated and individualistic, and as reli-

RITES gion has begun to lose its centuriesold hold on society, there has been an increasing demand for personalised celebrations for births, marriages and deaths. A one-size-fits-all ceremony is no longer considered suited to modern life, and yet a personalised ceremony needs to contain some form of ritual.

Rites of passage – from baptisms and weddings to funerals – have traditionally been the exclusive domain of either the church or the state in order to better establish and maintain social order.

The idea that alternative figures could undergo training in order to celebrate these rites of passage in a secular context did not come into the picture until the 1970s. By 2016, as many as 75 per cent of marrying couples in Australia chose a civil celebrant to officiate at their wedding. In the US, Canada, New Zealand and the UK numbers are similarly on the rise. The figures for non-religious funerals are slightly lower, but in the UK they have reached almost 60 per cent of families who prefer a personalised funeral for their loved one to a church event.

ual couples are sealed, but are often frustrated by the bureaucratic nature of the procedure.

A couple can opt for signing the legal papers “in jeans and T-shirt” and then go on to hold a wedding celebration that is completely of their choosing. A celebrant ceremony is free of any constraints – religious, cultural or legal – because it is ‘symbolic’, written together with the couple to reflect their wishes, desires and dreams.

This new-found freedom allows two people of whatever combination of genders to celebrate their union in whatever way they want and wherever they want – in spectacular venues, gardens, beaches, boats, woodlands, private homes, or historical buildings.

Celebrants are able to borrow and adapt elements from various cultures and traditions, and even from traditional or spiritual weddings (Celtic

hand-fasting ceremonies, Sand Ceremonies, Unity Candles, Jumping the Broom, Tying the Knot, “Druid” Ceremonies, etc) and thus create a unique ceremony that reflects the couple’s personalities, family backgrounds and shared history.

Celebrating a non-religious funeral in Italy Celebrants play a vital role in making non-religious funerals truly special. Many will have experienced first-hand how a church funeral can be “just right” if the deceased was effectively part of the church community, and, vice versa, how it can be disappointingly impersonal when the priest is simply “going through the motions”. Passaggi was founded in order to provide a dignified alternative for those who no longer attend

Alessia and Alessandro jumping the broom with celebrant Sarah Morgan (right) from Passaggi.

Choosing a celebrant for a wedding in Italy Marriage registrars performing civil weddings in Italy (ufficale di stato civile) at the comune of residence are bound by legal restrictions and time restraints. The articles of the law must be read in Italian without any interruption. There is little time or opportunity to personalise the ceremony (the registrar will not necessarily have met with the couple before hand), or address the emotions inherent in making such an important step.

LGBTQ couples signing the new Italian civil union (unione civile), moreover, want to do so in the same spot where civil marriages for heterosexApril 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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RITES church, have never believed in God, or have stipulated that they do not want a religious funeral.

During the family visit, celebrants have a long, often intimate, conversation with all the members of the family and friends present, gently enquire about their beliefs and values, ask what their preferred readings and musical selections are, and, most importantly, mediate between varying points of view. They then go home and craft a unique ceremony script, including a tribute (or eulogy) that captures the essence of the person who has died, and reflects the words and sentiments of the family.

In Italy, the family will always have had to go to the undertaker first to take care of the legalities, but after that Passaggi can step in. The quick turn-around in Italy between the death and the funeral – often no more than 48 hours – makes the task of organising the event even more daunting. Celebrants lift this burden off the shoulders of those most intimately involved in the death. Moreover, the fact that they are “external” makes them more suited to mediating between different points of view, and more appropriate as performers of a funeral ceremony where the loved one’s life is at the centre of the celebration.

Celebrant-led funerals give more choice to families, and are fitting for cremations, interments, burials, or commemorations.

City councils are required to provide a suitable space for celebrating non-religious funerals (funerale laico).

In Rome the Tempietto Egizio at the Monumental Cemetery of Verano is free to city residents. There is also a new venue at Verano called the Mater Admirabilis, with facilities for projecting images and an excellent sound system. The Chapel at the NonCatholic Cemetery and the Valdese churches allow mourners to hold a

ceremony without pastors or priests present.

An excellent guide to the issues surrounding non-religious funerals in Italy is the book Funerals Without God by Richard Brown, who is a member of the British Humanist Association and works

with Unione degli Atei a degli Agnostici Razionalisti (UAAR) here in Italy to train celebrants for non-religious funerals.

Passaggi has worked closely with Zega Funeral Directors who are sympathetic to celebrant-led funerals and work closely with many of the foreign consulates.

A painted coffin provides an alternative and colourful farewell.

SIDE NOTES Passaggi was formed in Rome in 2014 and there are two celebrants trained at the Fellowship of Independent Celebrants (www.foic.org.uk).

They perform funeral ceremonies in Lazio, Campania and Umbria and they have recently organised a commemoration in Milan. For weddings they are happy to travel thoughout Italy when there is plenty of time to plan the event. The ceremonies are mainly for families with ex-pat connections but interest among Italians is growing.

Clarissa Botsford graduated from King’s College, Cambridge, in modern and mediaeval literature and later completed an MA at London University in comparative education. She has taught English language and translation at Roma Tre University since 1980, and translates Italian literature into English. Botsford is an accomplished musician and sings and plays violin, viola and mandolin in two small ensembles in Rome.

She founded Passaggi in 2014 with her Australian friend, Sarah Morgan, after witnessing far too many silent non-religious funerals where no celebrant was present to guide the proceedings. She and Sarah attended a residential training course in the UK and gained their certification in early 2015.

For more information on Passaggi see website, www.passaggi.info.

April 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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rome’s major

Museums vatican museums

For more details see www.museiincomuneroma.it and www.beniculturali.it.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. MonSat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel.

0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons. org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums. state museums Baths of Diocletian Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel.

0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo.

09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria. borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paint­ings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30.

Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum Lungotevere Castello 50, tel.

066819111, www.castelsantangelo. com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing).

Guided tours in English and Italian.

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Wanted in Rome | April 2017

Crypta Balbi Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.

0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en.

National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.3019.30. Tues closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it.

08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum

Palazzo Altemps Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. An-

Castel S. Angelo

Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel.

064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and an­tiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.0019.45. Mon closed.

VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays. city museums Centrale Montemartini Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org.

Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00.

Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The mu-

nicipal modern art collection. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www. en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00.

Mon closed.

Museo Barracco Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel.

0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.0019.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel.

060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00.

Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Napoleonico Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

private museums Casa di Goethe Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Colonna Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it.

Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only.

Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE MUSEUM Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00.

Guided tours on prior booking.

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rome’s most active and contemporary

art galleries 1/9 Unosunove 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel.

0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it.

Associazione Culturale Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel.

0664760163, www.exelettrofonica. com.

Federica Schiavo Gallery Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com.

Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org.

Fondazione Pastifico Cerere This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel.

0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape.

Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel.

06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Franz Paludetto Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel.

06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.

0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper.

Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel.

066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel.

066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it.

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MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel.

0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Monitor

STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www. galleriasales.it.

Il Ponte Contemporanea Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 5559, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Monserrato Arte ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel.

348/2833034.

MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com.

Nomas Foundation Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

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tography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel.

0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

PIAN DE’ GIULLARI Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2. blogspot.com.

PLUS ARTE PULS Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 335 / 7010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www. rvbarts.com.

Sala 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www. salauno.com. s.t. foto libreria galleria Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art pho-

T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel.

0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Valentina Bonomo Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Wunderkammern This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net.

Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel.

0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in rome

exhibitions

World Press Photo at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. An Assassination in Turkey by Burhan Ozbilici of The Associated Press.

Jean-Michel Basquiat exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante. Early Moses, 1983, by Basquiat.

Photo Lizzie Himmel.

Da Caravaggio a Bernini exhibition at the Scuderie. Salome with the Head of Saint John the Baptist, 1607,

by Caravaggio.

WORLD PRESS PHOTO 28 April-28 May Each year an independent jury at the World Press Photo Foundation in Amsterdam selects images for this prestigious recognition of international photojournalism. This year’s 45 award-winning photographers come from 25 countries. The winning photograph was taken by Associated Press photographer Burhan Ozbilici for his image An Assassination in Turkey, showing the moment seconds afer an off-duty policeman shot Russia’s ambassador to Turkey, Andrey Karlov, during the opening of an art exhibition in Ankara on 19 December 2016.

Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

DA CARAVAGGIO A BERNINI 14 April-30 July Under the subheading Masterpieces of the Italian Seicento from the Spanish Royal Collection, this blockbuster exhibition reflects the strong political and cultural ties between the Spanish court and the Italian states during the 17th century.

The exhibited paintings and sculptures were exchanged mainly as diplomatic gifts from Italian rulers keen to earn the favour of the Spanish overlords, in particular through the Viceroyalty of Naples and the Duchy of Milan. Highlights of the show include Guercino’s Lot and His Daughters, Guido Reni’s Conversion of Saul, Bernini’s Crucifix from the Monastery of S. Lorenzo de El Escorial, Caravaggio’s Salome, and Joseph’s Tunic by Velázquez. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 639967500, www. scuderiequirinale.it.

SPARTACUS: SLAVES AND MASTERS IN ROME 31 March-17 Sept The Ara Pacis uses 250 archaeological finds to examine the complex history of slavery in ancient Rome, with particular focus on the slave revolt led by Spartacus against the Roman Republic between 73 and 71 BC. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www. arapacis.it.

JEAN-MICHEL BASQUIAT: NEW YORK CITY 24 March-2 July The Chiostro del Bramante pays tribute to New York artist Jean-Michel Basquiat, whose colourful and controversial career was cut short in 1988 after a heroin overdose at the age of 27. Comprising more than 90 pieces from the Mugrabi Collection, the exhibition examines Basquiat’s relationship with his native city as well as exploring the importance of street art and graffiti in his work. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, tel. 06916508451, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

VIVIAN MAIER: UNA FOTOGRAFA RITROVATA 17 March-18 June The Museo di Roma in Trastevere displays 120 black and white photographs by the American street photographer Vivian Maier (1926-2009). Exhibition organisers say the show is designed to give a greater insight into the life and career of the mysterious Maier who took around 150,000 photographs in her spare time while working as a nanny for over 40 years in Chicago. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1B, tel. 065816563, www. museodiromaintrastevere.it.

VENEZIA SCARLATTA: LOTTO, SAVOLDO, CARIANI 15 March-11 June Palazzo Barberini presents six works by three Venetian Renaissance masters – Lorenzo Lotto, Girolamo Savoldo and Giovanni Cariani – on loan from the Metropolitan in New York, the Louvre, Prado and the Accademia Carrara di Bergamo.

The exhibition concentrates on the paintings use of scarlet, a highly-prized colour in the Middle Ages, whose jealouslyguarded secret formula was handed down by painters, dyers and alchemists.

Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064814591, www.barberinicorsini.org.

COLOSSEO: UN’ICONA 8 March-7 Jan 2018 This exhibition uses installations, models and artefacts to shed light on how the Colosseum was used in the centuries after the fall of the Roman empire. The show includes recently-discovered evidence of

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a 12th-century fortress, which was built into the arena’s ruins by the powerful Frangipane family but collapsed in the 1349 earthquake. The exhibition recounts how the amphitheatre was pillaged for stone, how its internal spaces were used for stables, slaughterhouses and workshops during the mediaeval era, and how the monument was completely overgrown by the time the Grand Tourists arrived from Britain and northern Europe in the 18th century.

Exhibition showing at the Colosseum, for info see www.coopculture.it.

STILL SHOWING GEORG BASELITZ: GLI EROI 4 March-18 June Exhibition displaying the Heroes cycle of paintings by Georg Baselitz, one of Europe’s most important contemporary artists, 50 years after he created the series aged 27. Baselitz’s unorthodox heroes are fragile, vulnerable, damaged, and include war-weary soldiers and struggling artists trying to find their place in postwar Germany. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

GIOVANNI BOLDINI 4 March-16 July A retrospective exhibition dedicated to Giovanni Boldini comprising more than 250 works by the Ferrara artist, on loan from major museums and private collections around the world. Complesso del Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia), tel. 068715111, www. ilvittoriano.com.

Venezia Scarlatta: Lotto, Savoldo, Cariani exhibition at Palazzo Barberini. Cristo portacroce, 1526,

by Lorenzo Lotto.

GIORGIO GRIFFA 21 Feb-13 May Galleria Lorcan O’Neill shows new and historic works by Italian abstract painter Giorgio Griffa, viewed as one of the most radical avant-garde artists working in Italy today. Born in Turin in 1936, Griffa participated in the Venice Biennale in 1978 and 1980, and has held exhibitions at prestigious galleries throughout Europe. Vicolo dei Catinari, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

DANIELE DA VOLTERRA: I DIPINTI D’ELCI 17 Feb-7 May Galleria Corsini showcases two paintings by Daniele da Volterra (1509-1566), the Mannerist Italian artist who is best known for painting vestments and figleaves over genitals in Michelangelo’s Last Judgement fresco in the Sistine Chapel. The two works on display – Elijah in the desert and Madonna with Child, Sts Giovannino and Barbara – were painted in Rome in the mid-16th century and are rarely shown to the public. Galleria Corsini is one of the few Rome museums open

Vivian Maier: Una fotografa ritrovata exhibition at Museo di Roma in Trastevere. New York, 10 settembre, 1955. © Vivian Maier/Maloof Collection, Courtesy Howard Greenberg Gallery, New York.

April 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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on Mondays. Via della Lungara 10, tel.

0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org.

DNA: IL GRANDE LIBRO DELLA VITA DA MENDEL ALLA GENOMICA 10 Feb-18 June Exhibition dedicated to Gregor Mendel, the scientist, Augustinian friar and misunderstood genius whose groundbreaking genetic discoveries were not recognised until the turn of the 20th century, more than three decades after his death. Palazzo delle Esposizioni 194, Via Nazionale, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

Giovanni Boldini exhibition at the Vittoriano. Il vestito da ballo.

PLEASE COME BACK: IL MONDO COME PRIGIONE? 9 Feb-21 May 26 artists and over 50 works present “prison” as a metaphor for the contemporary world, and the contemporary world as a metaphor for prison: delving into modern technology and how we have become hyper-connected and increasingly manipulated. The exhibition’s artists include Claire Fontaine, Jenny Holzer, AES+F, Chen Chieh-Jen, and Gianfranco Baruchello. There is also a parallel programme of talks and workshops in which the public can interact with artists and prisoners. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel.

0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it.

GIUSEPPE PENONE: EQUIVALENZE 27 Jan-15 April The Gagosian holds an exhibition of work

by Giuseppe Penone, a renowned Italian sculptor based between Turin and Paris.

Associated with the Arte Povera movement, Penone is known for his works that engage with poetry, nature and time, using materials ranging from terracotta to iron.

The exhibition coincides with the installation of a giant Penone sculpture at the Fendi headquarters in Rome’s EUR district.

Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

Georg Baselitz: Gli eroi exhibition at Palazzo delle Esposizioni. A New Type, 1966, by Baselitz.

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Daniele Da Volterra at Galleria Corsini. Madonna con il Bambino, SS. Barbara e Giovannino. Photo Andrea Lensini, Siena. See page 21.

EL GRECO’S ANNUNCIATION 24 Jan-17 April The Capitoline Museums show The Annunciation by El Greco (1541-1614), as part of an art exchange programme with Madrid’s Thyssen Bornemisza Museum.

Considered one of the artist’s most spectacular works, The Annunciation was created originally as an altarpiece, flanked on either side by two panels, one of which is now in Romania’s national art museum in Bucharest, the other at the Museo del Prado in Madrid. Despite having lived in Rome roughly between 1570 and 1576, there are precious few El Greco works in Italy. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org.

Artemisia Gentileschi e il suo tempo exhibition at Palazzo Braschi.

La conversione della Maddalena, 1616-17, by Gentileschi.

LEONARDO E IL VOLO 21 Jan-17 April Geometric figures, mechanical designs, architectural plans: Leonardo da Vinci’s Codex on the Flight of Birds, written in his own hand, is the centrepiece of this exhibition which coincides with the 500th anniversary of the death of the Renaissance genius. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org.

ANISH KAPOOR 17 Dec-17 April Large-scale works by British-Indian sculptor Anish Kapoor, considered one of the most significant artists on the contemporary international art scene.

Kapoor won the Turner Prize in 1991 and in 2013 received a knighthood for services to visual arts. MACRO, Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Roma, Via Nizza 138, tel.

060608, www.museomacro.org.

ARTEMISIA GENTILESCHI 30 Nov-8 May Major exhibition dedicated to the Italian Baroque painter Artemisia Gentileschi, today considered one of the most accomplished painters in the generation following that of Caravaggio. The exhibition spans from 1610 to 1652, examining Gentileschi’s career in Florence, Rome, Venice and finally Naples where she worked until her death. Museo di Roma a Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.

LETIZIA BATTAGLIA: JUST FOR PASSION 24 Nov-17 April More than 200 photographs, contact sheets and vintage prints from the archive of Letizia Battaglia, known to many as the “Photographer of the Mafia”, as well as interviews and film footage relating to the celebrated Italian photographer. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel.

0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it.

Please Come Back: The World as Prison exhibition at MAXXI. The cage, the bench and the luggage by H. H. Lim. See page 22.

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FRIENDLY MONSTERS: THE MURALS OF GIO PISTONE

Gio Pistone at work in her studio.

Roman artist Gio Pistone is known for her eye-catching murals which are characterised by strong colour, imagination and geometric patterns. Wanted in Rome put a series of questions to Pistone who was born in 1974 and is based at a collective studio in the capital’s Portonaccio district. See cover of this edition.

How, when and where did you begin painting on walls, and what is your background in art?

I started making street art aged 18, simply by attaching my drawings around Rome in 1993-1994, at a time when this was not the done thing. The first graffiti crews were on the scene, there were lots of “tags”, but not a whole lot else. I began painting in abandoned factories but without taking colours with me, just using materials I found on the spot. It was a rudimentary, prehistoric muralism. My artistic formation began when I was very young in my home which was frequented by musicians and artists because my father and my mother moved in those circles. So you could say that I was born right in the middle of an arty world.

What are your influences – visual or literary – and how do they inspire your work?

My curiousity extends a little everywhere. Art, music, science, nature, poetry, cinema, set design, astronomy; I rarely get bored. Figures who have opened my heart include Cortázar, Bas Jan Ader, Montale, Barthes, Rodari, Munari, Miró, Jean Arp, David Lynch, Fellini, Monty Python, Shakespeare... oh and I am enchanted by birds of paradise!

Would you say that the fantastical creatures in your paintings originate from the world of dreams or nightmares?

What I draw comes from the monsters I dreamt of as a child. I used to wake up scared and crying, so my mother, a young psychology student, encouraged me to draw, to give the monsters a face. This therapeutic game was not only miraculous, because I stopped being afraid, but it was also incredible from a creative point of view as it opened the doors of this world. At the age of five I began to draw monsters from my imagination and it’s amazing that I still do this after all these years.

Could you tell us about the journey towards your trademark style and how it has developed over the years?

My style is instinctive, I deliberately make rude and crooked marks that I never wanted to correct with schools or studies.

I began drawing at the age of one and I never stopped, the only change that I see over time is the simplification of lines, in other words I am always moving more toward the abstract.

What projects have you planned in the near future, and where can people see your murals in Rome?

The near future will be very hectic, I leave for two residences in Sardinia and Abruzzo, in one of which I will make a large sculpture, a new experience for me. Then I will participate in a mural painting festival, Nottenera a Serra de’ Conti, in a mediaeval town in Le Marche. I will paint throughout the night, relying on the light of candles, sunset and sunrise. Magnificent! I will return to Rome in September – almost continually on the go – I can not wait!

To learn more about Pistone see her website, www.giopistone.it.

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Wanted in Rome | April 2017

Andy Devane

CLASSICAL ROME During Easter week there are usually concerts in many of Rome’s churches but they are often publicised only at the last minute. Keep an eye on churches in the historic centre, for example S. Ignazio, S. Maria sopra Minerva, S. Maria in Trastevere and St Paul’s within the Walls.

For details of the main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome see:

Evgeni Bozhanov, S. Cecilia 20-22 April.

Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All the concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (see address above).

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it.

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com.

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com.

Roma Tre Orchestra, Teatro Palladium, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it.

ACCADEMIA FILARMONIC ROMANA

Yuja Wang at a concert in Toronto in October 2016.

ASSOLI II 11 and 21 April A series of concerts by the soloists of the Imago Sonora Ensemble performing contemporary music, much of it being performed for the first time. On 11 April Alessandra Amorino flute plays music by

Hindemith, Sinopoli (premiere performance of Liu) Varèse, Sommacal and Berio. On 21 April Rebecca Raimondi violin plays music by Benjamin, Marchettini, Petrassi, Carter, Quagliarini (premiere of Ricercare III, 2015) and Maxwell Davies (Italian premiere of Mrs Linklater’s Tune, 1998). The Assoli concerts are inspired by the Schubertiade gatherings in 19th-century Vienna. Imago Sonora is a group of 12 young musicians formed in 2013. Sala Affreschi della Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

PASCAL DUSAPIN 23 April A meeting with the contemporary French composer at the French Academy, Villa Medici with a concert by the Ensemble Accroche Note of his music and three Debussy songs. Villa Medici, Grand Salon, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

SAMARCANDA 28 April The full title of this event in the Musica and Letteratura series is Esercizi di orientamento ovvero Samarcanda. Il crocevia di un sogno ovvero andando verso Est. The concert notes describe the evening as a series of stories – stories of cites, of forms, of colours, of sounds, of sensations and of travels along the Silk Routes to Samarcand, the crossroads of cultures and people. With Isabella Magnani voice, Emiliano Begni piano and Livia Saccucci and Elisa Lombardi and Marco Paparella actors. Sala Casella, Accademica Filarmonica, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

DECÒ 5 May The evening is described as a “study of humanity between the 19th and 20th centuries, from tango to futuristic deliria and milonga. Part of the Musica and Lettertura series. Sala Casella, Accademica Filarmonica, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

L’ARIA DELLA LIBERTÀ L’ITALIA DI PIERO CALAMANDREI 8 May The premiere of this multi-media work based on an idea by Nino Criscenti. Music by Messiaen, Stravinsky and Schostakovich. Piero Calamandrei, 1889-1956, was an Italian anti-fascist, author and jurist. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA

Simone Rubino, S. Cecilia on 6-8 April.

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RITMO SIMONE RUBINO 6-8 April A percussion concert conducted by

Manfred Honeck, with the versatile percussion soloist, Simone Rubino, and the S. Cecilia orchestra. Music by Haydn, MacMillan and Beethoven.

Rubino made his American debut at Carnegie Hall in October 2016. He also made his first solo album Immortal Bach at the end of last year and anyone who has heard him play Bach (who he has called one of the first jazz players) won’t forget his modern interpretation with modern instruments. After his debut with the S. Cecilia orchestra he goes to Florence where he will play with the Maggio Musicale orchestra conducted

by Zubin Mehta. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

RUDOLF BUCHBINDER IN RECITAL 12 April Buchbinder plays two Beethoven piano sonatas and four Schubert improvisations. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

ST JOHN’S PASSION JS BACH 13-15 April Antonio Pappano told Wanted in Rome in an interview last year that conducting St John’s Passion was one of the events he was looking forward to most in the 2016-2017 season. Three of the five singers are British, Lucy Crowe soprano, Andrew Staples tenor, Roderick Williams bass, also with Ann Hallenberg contralto and Christian Gerhaller bass. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

EVGENI BOZHANOV 20-22 April Bozhanov has a passionate following and has won some of the top international piano competitions. Conducted

by Juraj Valcuha, Bozhanov will play music by Beethoven and Bartok. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

YUJA WANG 27-29 April 2-13 May Flamboyant Yuja Wang is back with the S. Cecilia orchestra conducted by Antonio Pappano to perform music by Dubugnon, Tchaikovsky and Respighi.

She will also be playing with the S. Cecilia orchestra during its European tournee conducted by Pappano with performances at Zurich (2 May), Bern (3 May), Geneva (4 May), Lucerne (5 May), Amsterdam (9 May), Paris (10 May), London (11 May) and Essen (13 May).

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

Mitsuko Uchida, S. Cecilia 14-21 May.

MISCHA MAISKY 14 May If you did not hear cellist Mischa Maisky when he performed at Teatro Argentina in March for the Accademia Filarmonica Romana here is another opportunity to hear him play. This time he performs with the RAI orchestra conducted by James Conlon, playing Dvorak’s symphony no 8. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

MITSUKO UCHIDA 14 May, 19-21 May In a recent interview with the Daily Telegraph Mitsuko Uchida said “I have reached the age when I can step back.

I don’t have to run around giving 120 concerts a year – 50 is enough for me.”

So S. Cecilia is fortunate to have Uchida not just for a piano recital on 15 May (music by Mozart and Schumann) but also for three performances with the S. Cecilia Orchestra conducted by Antonio Pappano, music by Corrado, Schumann and Mendlessohn. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

ACCADEMIA TEDESCA 22 May Rome’s Accademia Tedesca – Villa Massimo will perform at the Sala S. Cecilia with the Ensemble Modern, experts in contemporary music, conducted by Tito Ceccherini with Anna Clementi voice and Megumi Kasakawa viola. Music by Berio, Stockhausen, Streich (new

composition) and Merrmann (new composition). For the occasion the audience will be seated on the stage with the musicians. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. santacecilia.it.

MAHLER SYMPHONY NO 5 25-29 May Mahler’s symphony no 5 conducted by Michael Tilson Thomas who will also take the S. Cecilia orchestra to Turin on 26 May. The programme in Rome on 25, 27 and 29 May will also include Mozart’s concerto for two pianos, played

by Katia and Marielle Labèque. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIA DEI CONCERTI CANINO – BALLISTA 8 April This duo have been playing the piano together since they first met at the Milan conservatory 60 years ago. They will perform music by Schubert, Liszt. Wagner, Dvorak and Brahms. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www. concertiiuc.it.

CARMIGNOLA – BRUNELLO 11 April Giuliano Carmignola violin and Mario Brunello cello play music by Leclair and Vivaldi. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

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jazz fusion. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin, tel.

892982, www.auditorium.com.

Bruno Canino and Antonio Ballista at the IUC.

PATTI SMITH 13 May The American singer-songwriter Patti Smith presents her special concert series Grateful, in which she is accompanied on stage by her children alongside bassist, guitarist and musical director Tony Shanahan. Smith set new standards for the New York City punk rock movement when she released her debut album Horses in 1975. Referred to as the “Godmother of Punk”, Smith’s best-known song is Because the Night, co-written with Bruce Springsteen.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www. auditorium.com.

IAN BOSTRIDGE 22 April British tenor Ian Bostridge is a regular visitor to Rome and performs once again at the IUC. He sings with the Roma Sinfonietta of the Universita Tor Vergata with Sophie Daneman. The programme is music by William Walton, to texts by Edith Sitwell, and Casella.

Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

RICHARD GALLIANO 16 May French accordion player Richard Galliano performs music by Mozart, Piazzolla and some of his own arrangements and compositions with the Orchestra Camerata Ducale. Aula Magna La Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

ROMA TRE FESTIVAL LE COMPOSITRICI 2017 8-9 April The festival is organised in collaboration with the Scuola Popolare di Musica di Testaccio and dedicated to the work of women composers that has often been overlooked or forgotten. Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it.

UNIVERSITA TOR VERGATA ROMA SINFONIETTA There is also a series of concerts at the Auditorium Ennio Morricone of Università Tor Vergata. See www.romasinfonietta.com and web.uniroma2.it for details.

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POP, ROCK, JAZZ SIMPLE MINDS 23 April This Scottish rock band produced a number of critically-acclaimed albums in the early 1980s, achieving international recognition and selling over 60 million albums since 1979.

Fronted by Jim Kerr, the group is bestknown for hit singles Don’t You (Forget About Me), Alive and Kicking and Belfast Child. Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, tel. 06684391, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it.

PAT METHENY 8 May Grammy Award-winning American jazz guitarist and composer Pat Metheny returns to Rome on 8 May. Metheny’s musical style incorporates progressive and contemporary jazz, Latin jazz and

THE CRANBERRIES 26 June The Cranberries perform a concert at the Auditorium Parco della Musica on 26 June. Formed in Irish city Limerick in 1989, the rock band is known for hits Linger, Dreams, Zombie and Promises.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www. auditorium.com.

2CELLOS 26 June 2Cellos perform at Il Centrale Live – Foro Italico di Roma on 26 June. The classically-trained duo from Croatia is known for playing instrumental arrangements of well-known pop and rock songs as well as classical music and film scores. For tickets see TicketOne website, www.ticketone. it. Centrale Live - Foro Italico, Via dei Gladitori.

THE BEACH BOYS 27 June The Beach Boys, including original members Mike Love and Bruce Johnston, play at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. The veteran popsters, Pat Metheny performs at the Auditorium Parco della Musica on 8 May.

Red Hot Chili Peppers come to Rock in Roma this summer.

who formed in 1961 and helped to create the West Coast classic rock sound, are best known for songs such as Good Vibrations, I Get Around, California Girls and Heroes and Villains.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www. auditorium.com.

RED HOT CHILI PEPPERS 20 July The American band has a distinct musical sound combining various elements of hard rock, funk and hip hop. Formed in Los Angeles in 1983, the band achieved huge commercial success with the 1991 album Blood Sugar Sex Magik which sold over 12 million copies and spawned hits such as Give It Away and Under the Bridge.

In more recent years the band has attracted a new generation of fans with songs such as Californication and Otherside. Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, www.rockinroma.com.

Patti Smith at the Auditorium Parco della Musica on 13 May.

Tom Jones at the Auditorium Parco della Musica on 26 July.

TOM JONES 26 July Welsh crooner Tom Jones shot to stardom in the 1960s with hits such as It’s Not Unusual, What’s New Pussycat and Delilah, while he gained a new audience in the late 1990s with the release of Reload, an album of cover duets with artists such as Robbie Williams and Stereophonics.

He performs on 26 July at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. Via Pietro de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www. auditorium.com.

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dance

Mvula Sungani’s new choreography Caruso.

MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA LA VALSE, SYMPHONY IN C, SHEHERAZADE RAVEL AND RIMSKY-KOSAKOV 19 April-13 May La Valse and Sheherazade are new Teatro alla Scala productions. Ravel’s La Valse is choreographed by some of the dancers from the La Scala ballet company in a new project to encourage new choreographic talent. Roberto Bolle is dancing in Symphony in C (on 19, 21 April and 10, 11 May) to the Balachine choreography. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodramamatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

PROGETTO HÄNDEL 20 May- 1 June There will nine performances of this choreography by Mauro Bigonzetti set to chamber music by Handel. This is a world premiere especially for La Scala, with stars Roberto Bolle and Svetlana Zakharova (20, 21, 23 and 24 May).

Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodramamatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME TEATRO BRANCACCIO STOMP 9-12 May The ever-popular percussion group Stomp returns to Brancaccio with its atheletic dancers and their everyday props such as dustbins, old tyres, brushes and pans, drills. The internationally successful Stomp performs a cross between dance, physical theatre, circus and gymnastics. Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana, www.teatrobrancaccio.it.

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA ROBBINS, PRELJOCAJ, EKMAN 31 March-8 April Three works, The Concert, to music by Chopin with choreography by Jerome Robbins, Annonciation to music by Stephane Roy and Antonio Vivaldi with choreography by Angelin Preljocaj and Cacti to music by Haydn, Beethoven, Schubert and Mahler with choreography by Alexander Ekman. David Garforth, an expert in ballet repertoire, conducts the Teatro dell’Opera orchestra. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

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FESTIVAL INTERNAZIONALE DELLA DANZA DI ROMA TEATRO OLIMPICO This is the seventh season of the Festival Internazionale della Danza di Roma organised by the Accademia Filarmonica and the Teatro Olimpico. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano, teatroolimpico.it.

CARDIA - BY MIGUEL ANGEL BERNA AND MANELA ADAMO 12-13 April A work that explores the common roots of Aragon and Salento dance and music and reveals the everyday emotions of love, desperation, suffering, illness, madness, life and death.

ROMEO AND GIULIETTA - BALLETTO DEL SUD 20-21 April This classic ballet to Prokofiev’s music is danced by the Balletto del Sud with choreography by Fredy Franzutti.

MVULA SUNGANI - PHYSICAL DANCE IN CARUSO 26-27 April Mvula Sungani’s new choreography is in homage to two Italian greats, Enrico Caruso and Lucio Dalla, based on some of the tenor’s recordings and Dalla’s famous piece Caruso, written in memory of the great Italian tenor. The soloists of Physical Dance company with its star Emanuela Bianchini. The song was written in the hotel in Sorrento where Caruso stayed shortly before he died.

ATERBALLETTO WORDS AND SPACE - BLISS 3-4 May Italy’s major dance company, based in Reggio Emilia, performs Words and Space a new choreography by Jirí Pokorny, an inter-personal dialogue about thoughts (words) and their transformation into actions (space). Pokorny, who danced with the Netherlands Dans Theater (NDT), has worked with Jiri Kylian, Mats Ek and Paul Lightfoot among others. Bliss by Johan Inger (who also started with the NDT and is responsible for Aterballetto’s successful Rain Dogs) is based on the music from the improvised concert by Keith Jarrett in Cologne in 1975. Aterballetto, which relied almost exclusively on choreographies by Amedeo Amodio and Mauro Bigonzetti for many years, is now looking further afield for inspiration.

Romeo e Giulietta danced

by Balletto del Sud at Teatro Olimpico.

Stomp returns to Teatro Brancaccio.

TEATRO VASCELLO TABULA COMPAGNIE LINGA 17-18 May A choreography by Katarzyna Gdaniec and Marco Cantalupo in which eight dancers from the Swiss-based Compagnie Linge make use of two large tables as props or barriers in a space which is a times restricted, at times open-ended. Space may unite or divide but has to be dominated. The choreographies of the French Compagnie Linga explore the effects of social and political issues on the body. Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www. teatrovascello.it.

UNIVERSITA ROMA 3 APRILE IN DANZA Je(u) 5 April Mikael Marklund dances Je(u) by choreographer Laurent Chetouane.

Marklund dances with the company Rosas and performed another Chetouane work, O, in 2012. Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it.

APRILE IN DANZA SAKNES (ROOTS) 7 April Choreography and dance by Benedetta Capanna who has worked with a

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number of dance projects in Italy and abroad, especially in the field of dance and yoga. She is interested in the relationships between mind and body, light and shadow, past and the presTabula by Compagnie Ligna at Teatro Vascello.

ent. Saknes is dedicated to Capanna’s grandmother Mirdza Kalnins, etoile at the Riga and Rome operas. Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it.

era in conjunction with La Fenice in Venice. Conducted by Roberto Abbado and directed by film maker Marco Bellocchio (who has already directed Rigoletto and Pagliacci) with tenor Gregory Kunde in the lead role. The opera, which is set against the background of the French Revolution, was first performed at La Scala in 1896. It is now performed less widely although it remains a shining example of Italian verismo. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it.

Thomas Hampson will sing the role of Don Giovanni in Mozart’s opera in Milan.

OPERA MILAN DIE MEISTERSINGER VON NURNBERG

BY RICHARD WAGNER 16 March-5 April Daniel Gatti conducts Wagner’s opera directed by Harry Kupfer. This long opera is the only comedy of Wagner’s mature works and is the only one based on a story set in a specific time (mid-16th century) and place (Nuremberg) rather than based around a myth or a legend. Kupfer is a master of Wagner operas and has directed several productions at the Bayreuth Festival as well as Richard Strauss’ Der Rosenkavalier last summer at La Scala. The cast includes Jaquelyn Wagner, Anna Lapkovskaja, Michael Volle and Markus Werba.

Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ANNA BOLENA

BY DONIZETTI 31 March-23 April Italian opera comes back to La Scala with Donizetti’s Anna Bolena, part of the composer’s three queens’ trilogy, which includes Maria Stuarda, recently staged in Rome, and Roberto Devereux. Soprano Federica Lombardi, trained at La Scala, makes her debut as Anna. She comes from her February performance as Fiordiligi in Rome in Graham Vick’s ultra modern interpretation of Così fan tutte and will return to La Scala as Musetta in La bohème in June. Sonia Ganassi sings Jane Seymour.

Ion Marin conducts. He takes the place of Bruno Campanella who has considerably more experience of Italian opera. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

with soprano Rosa Feola making her debut as Ninetta (she will be singing in Rome at Caracalla in July in Carmen), Edgardo Rocha, Alex Esposito, Paolo Bordogna and Michele Pertusi. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

DON GIOVANNI

BY MOZART 6 May-6 June In the wake of two Italian operas Mozart returns to La Scala with Don Giovanni conducted by Paavo Jarvi making his debut at La Scala. This is the 2011-2012 production directed by Robert Carsons. American baritone Thomas Hampson sings the lead role, coming from a magnificent and sensitive interpretation of Germont in a contemporary (and controversial) staging

by Willy Decker of La Traviata at the Metropolitan Opera. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME ANDREA CHENIER

BY UMBERTO GIORDANO 21 April-2 May This is a new production of Giordano’s op-

LULU

BY BERG 19-30 May With the direction of South Africa’s William Kentridge this is certain to be a popular choice. This production of Berg’s opera is a co-production with three top international opera companies, The Metropolitan New York, the English National Theatre and the Nationale Opera Amsterdam. Kentridge’s direction and staging has had highly favourable reviews wherever the opera has been performed in the last year.

Kentridge, whose ink drawings are used in projections and animated drawings, sets the scene of this difficult opera in the period it was created in the late 1920s early 1930s. Alan Berg died before completing the last two acts and it was first performed incomplete in 1937 and then for the next 40 years, until the death of Berg’s wife 1976. It was finally finished by Friedrich Cerha, Austrian composer and conductor who had been working on it since the early 1960s. The complete version was premiered in 1979 at the Paris Opera conducted by Pierre Boulez. Alejo Perez is conducting with Agnette Eichenholz (Sweden) and Disella Lárusdóttir (Iceland) who makes her European debut in the title role.

Teatro dell’ Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it.

Alan Berg’s opera Lulu is directed by William Kentridge at Teatro dell’Opera di Roma.

Photo Ken Howard.

LA GAZZA LADRA

BY ROSSINI 12 April-7 May This new La Scala production, conducted

by Riccardo Chailly marks the 200th anniversary of its highly successful premiere at La Scala. It is directed by Gabrielle Salvatores who is making his debut at La Scala. The cast is a strong team of belcanto singers, April 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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MAGGIO MUSICALE FIORENTINO 24 April-26 June The three operas this year in the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino programme are Mozart’s Idomeno, (26 April-6 May), Verdi’s Don Carlo (5-14 May) and Stravinsky’s L’Histoire du Soldat (24-29 May).

Unusually the inauguration on 25 April is not at the opera house in Florence but at the Teatro Manzoni in Pistoia.

Mozart wrote Idomeneo when he was only 25. Damiano Michieletto is the director and the work will be conducted

by Gianluca Capuana. Don Carlo at the Florence Opera will be conducted by Zubin Mehta and directed by Giancarlo Del Monaco and L’Histoire du Soldat at Teatro Goldoni in Florence will be conducted by Alpesh Chauan and directed

by Alessandro Talevi.

OPERA NOTES Prende il via l’ottantesima edizione dello storico Maggio Musicale Fiorentino con Idomeneo di Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart (26 April – 6 May) per la regia di Damiano Michieletto, la direzione di Gianluca Capuano e i cantanti Michael Schade (nel ruolo del protagonista), Rachel Kelly (in quello di suo figlio Idamante) Ekaterina Sadovnikova (quale Ilia, la promessa sposa di quest’ultimo) e Carmela Remigio (che sarà Elettra, l’innamorata respinta da Idamante).

Novità di rilievo di questa edizione del festival è il luogo dell’inaugurazione, che non è la consueta Opera di Firenze bensì il Teatro Manzoni di Pistoia, l’altra città di provincia distante dal capoluogo toscano circa 40 chilometri. Idomeneo è la prima opera seria composta da un Mozart di appena 25 anni. Il successo fu notevole fin dal suo apparire nel Teatro di Corte di Monaco di Baviera il 29 gennaio 1781. Mozart la modificò più volte per rimanere fedele alla sua concezione di teatro musicale nuova per l’epoca, che andava oltre la classica divisione di arie e recitativi (per lo più accompagnati) a favore di un’azione drammatica unitaria e continua e soprattutto a vantaggio di un approfondimento psicologico dei personaggi. Nella versione di Idomeneo data a Vienna in forma di concerto nel 1786, la modifica più evidente e più importante, oltre ai numerosi tagli apportati e ai nuovi pezzi aggiunti, fu la trascrizione della parte di Idamante da castrato a tenore. In questa edizione fiorentina Idamante sarà cantato da un mezzosoprano.

THEATRE THE SECRET RAPTURE 4-9 April Michael Fitzpatrick directs The Secret Rapture by British playwright David Hare, presented by Wonderwall Entertainment by special arrangement with Samuel French. Tue-Fri 20.30, Sat-Sun 17.30. For info and reservations contact wonderwallenter@gmail.com or tel. 347 / 8248661. Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1 (off Viale Mazzini).

TEATRO INDIA 10 April Teatro India screens the premiere of Graziano Graziani’s documentary Pina Bausch, in the presence of the film’s director and producers, at Teatro Argentina at 20.30. Universally acclaimed as the “mother” of dance/theatre, Bausch died in 2009 just days after her last premiere but her company Tanztheater Wuppertal continues to work together, performing and conserving her legacy with tours around the world. Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, www.teatrodiroma.net.

TEATRO VITTORIA 11-15 April A live magic show featuring mental-

ism, comedy, card tricks and illusions by the Gang of Magic, a team of upcoming contemporary magicians.

In Italian. Teatro Vittoria, Piazza S. Maria Liberatrice 10, Testaccio, tel.

065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it.

TEATRO SISTINA 12-23 April The Teatro Sistina celebrates the 22nd anniversary of the Italian version of the rock opera Jesus Christ Superstar.

This production features Ted Neeley who starred in the 1973 film version

by Norman Jewison, with live music performed by an orchestra. The hugely-successful musical by Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice has been entertaining audiences around the world ever since it opened in Broadway in 1971. Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it.

ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 21 April The line-up of this monthly evening of hilarity, in English, features clubfounder Marsha De Salvatore with regulars Kissy Dugan and José Salgado, newcomer Konrad Shubert, and MC for the evening Mark Anthony Hannan. Doors open at 20.30, show begins at 21.30, and guests should reserve in advance, tel. 347 / 6753522 or email teatrodouze@gmail.com. Teatro Douze, Via del Cipresso 12, Trastevere.

Paolo Di Nicola The documentary Pina Bausch will be premiered by Teatro India on 10 April.

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academies BRAZILIAN EMBASSY 8 Feb-22 April The Brazilian embassy to Italy in Piazza Navona hosts Portinari, la mano senza fine, an exhibition dedicated to one of Brazil’s most celebrated modernist painters, Candido Portinari (1903-1962). On display is a collection of 26 oil paintings and drawings by the neo-realist whose work contained strong political and social themes. Exhibition highlights include preparatory drawings for the War and Peace panels in the United Nations building in New York, and the awardwinning 1935 masterpiece Colhedores De Café which documents migrants working in a coffee plantation.

Embassy of Brazil, Palazzo Pamphilj, Piazza Navona 14, tel. 06683981, wwww.roma.itamaraty.gov.br.

BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 10–11 April Free Movement in Post-Brexit Europe: Towards a UCL Centre in Rome. Conference bringing together leading researchers in the arts and humanities, social sciences and life sciences from Italy and the UK to explore challenges and opportunities for academic collaboration in Europe after the 2016 referendum. Organised by University College London (UCL). See article page 2 on Brexit. British School at Rome, Via Antonio Gramsci 61, tel.

063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.

CASA DI GOETHE 22 March-24 Sept Punti di Vista (Points of View) is an exhibition by German photographer

Kerstin Schomburg who, during the summer of 2015, followed in the footsteps of important landscape artist and friend of Goethe, Jakob Philipp Hackert (1737-1807). Schomburg uses her camera to provide a modern version of Hackert’s celebrated scenes of Rome, including St Peter’s and the Baths of Caracalla, as well as the Roman hinterland such as the waterfalls of Tivoli, the Via Appia, and Villa Conti in Frascati.

The exhibition also includes some original Hackert works alongside research notes by Schomburg. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel.

0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it.

FRENCH ACADEMY 9 Feb-23 April The French Academy at Villa Medici holds an exhibition of work by Annette Messager, one of France’s leading visual artists.

Messager is known mainly for her installations in which she incorporates photographs, prints, drawings and embroidery to explore feminist themes. She is the recipient of numerous prestigious awards, from the Golden Lion at the Venice Biennale, to the Praemium Imperiale Arts International Award for sculpture.

Messager has also been the subject of major retrospectives at the Musée de la Ville de Paris, MoMA in New York, and at the Centre Pompidou.

Accademia di Francia a Roma – Villa Medici, Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel.

0667611, www.villamedici.it.

JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 20 Jan-19 April Washoku la colorata vita alimentare dei Giapponesi is an exhibition highlighting the colours and flavours of Japanese cuisine, or washoku, through film, nishiiki-e prints, cooking utensils and recreations of Japanese dishes. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, tel.

063224754, www.jfroma.it.

Colhedores De Café by Candido Portinari at the Brazilian embassy in Piazza Navona.

KEATS SHELLEY-HOUSE 28 Nov-3 June Pens to Paper. Autograph Letters from

Photographer Kerstin Schomburg provides contemporary versions of Jakob Philipp Hackert’s landscapes at Casa di Goethe.

the Keats-Shelley House. With the subheading From Sir Walter Scott to President Theodore Roosevelt, this exhibition focuses on the art of letter-writing and the changes in the industrial production of paper and writing materials between the early 19th century and the early 20th century. On display are autograph letters by figures such as Johann Wolfgang Goethe, Francesco Crispi, Henry James, Eleonora Duse and Rudyard Kipling. Keats-Shelley House, Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.org.

SWISS INSTITUTE OF ROME 16 March-1 July The Swiss Institute of Rome presents Stockage, a solo exhibition by leading Swiss artist John M. Armleder, at the institute’s Villa Maraini building.

The exhibition comprises a collection of works that span Armleder’s long career which includes participation in the Fluxus movement, in addition to some site-specific creations. Istituto Svizzero di Roma, Villa Maraini, Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 06420421, www. istitutosvizzero.it.

April 2017 | Wanted in Rome

35

easter English-language religious services in Rome during Easter Week.

VATICAN CEREMONIES 13 April. Holy Thursday. Chrism Mass, Vatican Basilica, 09.30.

14 April. Good Friday. Papal Mass, Vatican Basilica 17.00, Way of the Cross, Colosseum 21.15.

15 April. Holy Saturday. Easter Vigil, Vatican Basilica 20.30.

16 April. Easter Sunday Mass, St Peter’s Square 10.15. Urbi et Orbi blessing 12.00.

Please note that tickets (free of charge) are required for all ceremonies listed above, except the Way of the Cross and Urbi et Orbi. For information contact the Prefecture of the Pontifical Household, tel. 0669884857 or see website, www.vatican.va.

EASTER CHURCH SERVICES IN ENGLISH All Saints’ Anglican Church, Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881.

16 April. Easter pre-dawn Eucharist 05.30. Easter ceremony 10.30.

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo 68, tel.

0668768314.

16 April. Easter Sunday 10.30.

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic), Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel.

06772631.

13 April. Holy Thursday 18.00.

14 April. Good Friday 15.00.

15 April. Easter Vigil 21.00.

16 April. Easter Sunday 10.00.

Rome Baptist Church, S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652.

13 April. Maundy Thursday 19.00.

14 April. Church open 06.00-18.00 for personal prayer.

16 April. Sunrise Service at Pincio 07.00. Easter Resurrection Service 10.30.

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church of Scotland, Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627.

13 April. Maundy Thursday Communion and supper 18.30.

16 April. Easter Sunday worship 11.00.

St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic), Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359.

16 April. Easter Sunday 10.00.

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Wanted in Rome | April 2017

St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via della Caravita 7.

13 April. Mass of the Lord’s Supper and Footwashing 18.00.

14 April. Solemn Liturgy of the Lord’s Passion 15.00.

15 April. Great Vigil of Easter 20.30.

16 April. Easter Sunday 11.00.

St Patrick’s (Roman Catholic), Via Buoncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787.

13 April. Holy Thursday 19.00.

14 April. Good Friday 17.00.

15 April. Holy Saturday 19.00.

16 April. Easter Sunday 10.00.

St Paul’s Within-the-Walls (Episcopal), Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli 58, tel.

064883339.

13 April. Maundy Thursday 19.00.

14 April. Good Friday 19.00.

15 April. Easter Vigil 20.00.

16 April. Holy Eucharist 10.30.

S. Silvestro in Capite (Roman Catholic), Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel.

066797775.

13 April. Holy Thursday 17.00.

14 April. Good Friday Liturgy 17.00 15 April. Easter Vigil 20.00.

16 April. Easter Sunday 10.00, 17.30.

S. Susanna American Church (Roman Catholic), Via XX Settembre 15, tel.

0642014554.

Due to temporary closure, the Holy Week services are celebrated at the nearby Basilica di S. Camillo de Lellis, except for the 09.00 Easter Sunday Mass at the Basilica di S. Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, also nearby.

13 April. Holy Thursday 17.30.

14 April. Good Friday 19.00.

15 April. Easter Vigil 19.30.

16 April. Easter Sunday 09.00, 10.00.

children BIOPARCO 16 March-30 June The Bioparco holds a fun exhibition entitled La cacca: storia naturale dell’innominabile (Poop: nature’s unspeakable story) which examines the vital role of “cacca” in the world’s ecosystem. In Italian and English. Bioparco, Piazzale del Giardino Zoologico 1 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www. bioparco.it.

ARTandSEEK 8 April ARTandSEEK organises English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. Children and their families will visit the new collection arrangement at the Galleria Nazionale on 8 April at 11.00. The event will incorporate fun activities to examine how artists such as Marion Baruch and Alberto Burri provide stories of themselves and their community through the use of unusual art materials. The programme is taught entirely in English and there are two different age groups: 5-8 and 9-12.

Parents can drop off their children or participate in the programme with the entrance ticket only. Reservation required. For details tel. 331 / 5524440, email membership@artandseekforkids. com or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com.

Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel.

066868546.

13 April. Mass of the Lord’s Supper.

19.30.

14 April. Solemn Celebration of the Passion 15.00.

15 April. Easter Vigil 21.30.

16 April. Easter Sunday 10.00.

Way of the Cross at the Colosseum.

ART and SEEK combines culture and fun with an English-language visit to the Galleria Nazionale.

THIS PAGE IS OPEN TO YOUNG WRITERS AND ARTISTS

WANTED IN ROME Junior

Early Years pupils reading with food author Rachel Roddy.

AUTUMNAL CHESTNUTS Giacomo Damassa, Year 10 at The New School Rome, describes the traditions behind his family’s chestnut harvest each autumn

C

oming back from the castagneto we were all exploding with a mixture of exhaustion, sweat and happiness. Our coats were heavy and soaked with the wood’s fresh smell. They seemed to weigh double, as if sleeping on our shoulders after the long walk. Wrinkles in my grandmother’s hand clenched the robust wicker basket that held our precious trophy.

Inside, the chestnuts were lying in neat bundles on a bunch of fern and oak leaves. Most of them we had already cleaned but the golden spikes of their protective shell could be seen glowing, even from outside the basket.

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Wanted in Rome | April 2017

We were arriving at our home village.

To greet us, the little stone church was bleeding out vast numbers of ancient women singing chants of monotonous prayers. My family was now moving through the vein-like pathways that ran through the huddled houses at the centre of the small town. In our minds we shared the same idea of relaxing, altogether, in our cosy house.

Meanwhile, in Rome it is October and in their day-time slumber, thousands of people ignore the perfume of chestnuts, cooked by unemployed workers at the edge of the roads. Their skin darkens and, once black, falls off.

From the cut the skilled worker made, the golden pulp starts coming out and hardening. Fumes rise from the chestnuts, heating the air and when somebody passes nearby he is instantly caught in a memory and feels suddenly warmer inside.

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the student. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

My family is all in the house now, the warm air smells like wood and uncut wet grass. The scent of wilderness and the soaked forest has followed us, creeping in from behind, crawling under the door and resting over the basket of bronze chestnuts. In my family we all have a job on days like these: my dad and his brother turn the polenta in a big cauldron, I add the ingredients, my mother and grandmother cook ragù and sausages.

They will then put a long wooden board on the table. As everyone sits down, my uncle will pour the polenta at the table.

Then my grandmother adds to the centre of the table a mixture of sausages and blood-red tomatoes. Gathered around the table, we all start eating: cutting, devouring polenta, arriving at the centre to eat the sausages. The gi-

ant food map is full of routes now. The steaming flavour of the floury mixture with tomato makes us feel warm and sleepy. As the first travellers arrive at the centre, they start picking the sausages that are now encrusted with warm polenta and ruby tomato.

After we have all eaten, my grandfather brings the boiled chestnuts into the room, and, whilst gazing out of the window at his beloved mountains, starts peeling the chestnut skin with his knife. The lucid, bold red skin has auburn shades and darker vein-like stripes cutting it vertically. My grandfather’s big calloused hands handle the knife precisely, as if it were an extension of his arm. The ash-pale, powdery pulp extracted is meticulously cleaned of any residue of outer shell or of its in-

ternal velvet-like skin. The inside of the chestnut is as wrinkled as my grandfather’s hand. The secret to making the best chestnuts is to work hard during that day to collect them.

Now that my grandfather is no longer here, it’s my father’s job to clean the chestnuts and I hope that, in the distant future, I too will be granted the honour of doing it myself when the time comes.

The New School Rome, Via della Camilluccia 669, tel. 063294269, www.newschoolrome.com.

New Library and Resource Centre at The New School The New School Rome’s brand new Library and Resource Centre was officially opened on 28 November 2016.

This new space gives the school its first ever combined Senior and Junior Library where students can study, relax and read books in a cosy, quiet environment bathed in natural light. Not only can students read in the old-fashioned way, they can also read ebooks or online content using a brand new dedicated set of tablets.

The school held an art competition to mark the opening of the Library and Resource Centre, inviting celebrated food writer, Rachel Roddy to judge, and the prizewinning pieces are now on display inside, see work by Catherine Davey above.

Rachel, who lives in Rome, is the author of Five Quarters: Recipes and Notes from a Kitchen in Rome and winner of the 2015 André Simon food book award.

She also writes a regular column for The Guardian containing recipes inspired by her culinary experiences in the city.

During the day, she staged readings of children’s stories to students in Early Years and Years 1 and 2, as well as leading Creative Writing workshops for students in Years 8 and 10. The pupils were tasked with recalling a particular memory associated with food and then using it as the basis for a piece of reflective writing, including the particularly evocative Autumal Chestnuts by Giacomo Damassa.

Prize-winning art work by Catherine Davey (Year 10).

Malcolm McColl, English and Drama Teacher April 2017 | Wanted in Rome

39

guide to

GARDENS AROUND ROME CASTEL GIULIANO One of the best rose gardens in Lazio is located about 7 km from Bracciano north of Rome. The estate gardens surround the large square three-storey farm castle, which stands on a high island of volcanic tufa rock facing Cerveteri and the sea, and they encompass the church of S. Filippo Neri in the grounds. The planting of the garden is the work of Marchesa Umbertina Patrizi and shows a garden style that is rarely found in public parks in Italy. There are more than 1,000 rose bushes, including fine climbers on the castle walls. Only open for group bookings. This year’s Festa delle Rose takes place on 13-14 May from 10.00-19.00.

Palazzo Patrizi, Castel Giuliano, tel.

0699802530, www.castel-giuliano.it.

FLORACULT The seventh edition of Floracult, the popular floral and amateur gardening festival, takes place in the La Storta area of north Rome from 21-23 April, from 10.00-19.00. Dozens of exhibitors participate in the four-day festival which brings together Italy’s horticultural experts and the latest gardening trends. Ample parking and free shuttle bus from La Storta station. Admission €8; children under 12 free. Casali del Pino, Via Andreassi 30, La Storta, Via Cassia km 15, tel. 345/9356761, www. floracult.com.

LA MORTELLA On the island of Ischia off the coast of Naples is an oasis of tropical and Mediterranean plants. The gardens were created in 1958 by Susana Walton, the wife of English composer Sir William Walton. La Mortella is divided into two areas: the valley garden and the hill garden. The valley, designed by celebrated English landscape architect Russell Page, is shady, luxuriant and tropical whilst the hill, designed by Lady Walton, is sunny and Mediterranean.

The garden design takes advantage of the sea views and is enriched by fountains.

Open until 31 October, on Tues, Thurs, Sat, Sun from 09.00-19.00. La Mortella also organises open-air concerts of classical music in its Greek Theatre which overlooks the sea. Via Francesco Calise 39, Forio d’Ischia (NA), tel. 081986220, www. lamortella.org.

NINFA This romantic English-style garden spread over eight hectares was built by the Caetani family at the start of the 20th century on the ruins of the medi-

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Wanted in Rome | April 2017

Ninfa

aeval town of Ninfa. The garden is open, without obligatory booking, on various weekends from 1 April until 5 November. This year it is open every Sunday in April and May. However groups (minimum of 30 people) that book a guided tour can visit the gardens all year round.

Ninfa is part of the natural monument of the same name established by the Lazio region in 2000. Fondazione Roffredo Caetani Onlus, Via della Fortezza 04010 Sermoneta (Ninfa), www.fondazionecaetani.org.

La Landriana The Primavera della Landriana, the annual garden fair and horticultural sale,

La Landriana

takes place at the Landriana gardens south of Rome from 21-23 April, from 10.00-19.00. The ten-hectare gardens were created in the 1950s by owner Marchesa Lavinia Taverna Gallarati Scotti with the help of Russell Page.

Now considered the most important post-war garden in Italy, Landriana contains 32 secret spaces and walks including one planted entirely with Mutabilis roses. Driving from Rome, take Via Pontina or the coastal road to Ardea, or by train on the Rome-Nettuno line to Campo di Carne. Via Campo di Carne 51, Tor S. Lorenzo, Ardea, tel. 0691014140, www.giardinidellalandriana.it.

ORTO BOTANICO This botanic garden is located in the heart of Trastevere, behind Palazzo Corsini and across from the Villa Farnesina, on a 12-hectare sloping site filled with palms, yucca and terraces with gravel paths. Established in 1883 after the Corsini family donated it to the Italian government, it is now run by the University of Rome La Sapienza.

The gardens host over 3,500 species of plants, including specially-cultivated species in danger of extinction in the wild, and feature a scent-and-touch garden for the visually impaired. Open every day except Sunday until 28 Oct 09.30-18.30, and from 30 Oct-31 Dec 09.30-17.30. It has three special Sunday openings this year: 9 April, 14 and 28 May. Largo Cristina di Svezia 24, Trastevere, tel. 0649917106, s we b 0 1 . d bv. u n i ro m a 1 . i t / o r t o.

PONTIFICAL GARDENS AT CASTEL GANDOLFO The Pontifical gardens at Castel Gandolfo are located in the Alban hills about 25 km south-east of the capital, and have spectacular views over Lake Albano. The 30-hectare papal gardens feature ancient Roman ruins dating back to Emperor Domitian as well as a square of holly oaks, paths of roses and aromatic herbs, and a magnolia garden. The 55-hectare site, which includes a 25-hectare Vatican farm, has acted as a papal retreat since the 17th century but in 2014 was opened to the public by Pope Francis for the first time.

There are numerous tour options, for individuals and groups, in various languages. Tours can be booked by emailing tours.musei@scv.va, full visiting information on the Vatican Museums website www.museivaticani.va.

Pontifical Gardens at Castel Gandolfo

ROSETO COMUNALE Rome’s municipal rose garden on the Aventine hill generally opens from 21 April until 18 June. There are two separate sections overlooking the Palatine hill and Circo Massimo: the upper garden with its collection of classic “old roses”, and the lower garden featuring the entries of the prestigious annual international rose competition known as the Premio Roma, which this year takes place on 20 May, and a collection of winning roses from previous years.

The gardens will be closed on the day of the prize-giving but from the next day onwards the public can admire the winning specimens. The Roseto is home to over 1,000 varieties including a green-blossomed rose from China.

Daily 08.30-19.30. Via di Valle Murcia 6, tel. 065746810, rosetoromacapitale@comune.roma.it.

channeled under the town of Tivoli to feed the gardens’ vast range of spectacular fountains, including the celebrated organ fountain. Cascades, pools, water staircases, grottoes and nymphs are revealed at every turn. The villa has a bar and restaurant on the terrace overlooking the gardens and there is a bookshop. Open daily, except Monday and 2 May, from 08.30, with last entry in April at 18.30, and at 18.45 in the summer months until September. For full details see website. Piazza Trento 5, Tivoli, tel. 199766166, villadestetivoli@teleart.org.

Orto Botanico

VILLA D’ESTE Built for the Cardinal Ippolito D’Este around 1555, these complex renaissance water gardens in Tivoli are among the most famous in the world.

Water from the nearby river Aniene is

Roseto Comunale

April 2017 | Wanted in Rome

41

Look for more classified ads on www.wantedinrome.com

classified

COLUMNs Accommodation vacant in town APARTMENT FOR RENT ST PETER AREA. 2 floors apartment with garden and independent entrance. 3-4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, living room, kitchen, service room and 1 auto parking garage. €1.600 month. Contact casaitaliasrl@hotmail.com.

BRAVETTA - PEACEFUL APARTMENT INSIDE CASALE. Apartment 100sqm in historical casale, partially furnished,

Free Classified Advertisements All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted via our website at www.wantedinrome.com. Space permitting free classified advertisements placed on our website will be downloaded and published in the magazine, but only if they include contact details. Jobs Wanted classifieds will no longer be accepted in our office but must be placed directly on our website www.wantedinrome.com

2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, big living room, fully fitted kitchen, terrace, big garden. Close to Monteverde and Villa Pamphili. €1.300/month, long term. msg@adrianostefani.it.

RENT APARTMENT ON VIA DELLA SCROFA, HISTORIC CENTRE. Furnished 73sqm attic apartment in Via della Scrofa in Rome, beside Piazza Navona. Completely renewed, third floor no lift. One bedroom, living and dining room, bathroom, liveable terrace, fully equipped kitchen. Washing machine, dishwasher, air conditioning, autonomous heating. Rental price €1.500 monthly inclusive of condominium expenses.

Contract short term (“contratto transitorio” at least 6 / max.18 months).

ST PETER STUDIO APARTMENT. Furnished apartment for rent from now to 15 March. Then from 20/25 April. Info: +39 340 / 3106079 (whatsapp), m.rita.salustri@ virgilio.it.

TRASTEVERE - ORTI D’ALIBERT. Architect rents charming, small studio – apartment on three levels. Fully fur-

nished and equipped. €1.100 per month. Tel. 065803195, mobile 333 / 4930662 (whatsapp).

Accommodation vacant out of town TIVOLI - MANDELA. 19th century tower, completely restored 90 sqm furnished / unfurnished apartment with entrance, 2 bedrooms, living room, bathroom, kitchen, €350 + €40 condominium. Tel. 066786400. fedel@email. it. 50 km from Rome, two apartments in old castle, completely restored, living room, 2 bedrooms. Unfurnished. €310 + 40 condominium. Other: 3 bedrooms, living room, dining room, 2 fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, balcony, terrace. €450 + 40 condominium. Tel. 066786400. fedel@email.it.

Jobs vacant BILLING CLERK. International School in Rome is seeking a Billing Clerk beginning immediately. Main duties include billing and purchasing, reconciliations, coordination of financial aid requests, annual re-enrollment of students. The ideal candidate must be bilingual (English/Italian), Italian / EU citizens or valid permit of stay for US citizens required, with accounting skills, ​3-4 years of experience, and proficient in Microsoft excel. The candidate must also have excellent verbal and written communications skills, be organized, accurate and reliable with a positive attitude and professional personal presentation. One year contract offered. Interested candidates should send their CV to Mr. Michael Callan at info@aosr.org.

ENGLISH BUSINESS TRAINER. The Language Grid seeks motivated EMT

Wanted in Rome does not accept responsibility for the content of the advertisements it publishes.

CLASSIFIED DEADLINE DATES Date di scadenza

Office hours: Mon – Fri 10.00 – 16.00.

Orari ufficio: lun – ven 10.00 – 16.00.

PUBLICATION DATES Giorno di pubblicazione

23 April 28 May

Wanted in Rome does not accept jobs vacant ads that discriminate on the basis of age, race, nationality, gender or religion. Via di Monserrato 49, 00186 Roma – Tel./fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com - www.wantedinrome.com

3 May 7 June

FREE CLASSIFIEDS must be submitted on our website, www.wantedinrome.com. Free ads are downloaded and published in the magazine space permitting.

April 2017 | Wanted in Rome

43

trainers to work in a business environment. Offering part-time and full-time positions on long term contracts with paid holiday, bonuses & benefits. Opportunity for career development. Apply via email: info@thelanguagegrid. com with CV, photo & cover letter. info@thelanguagegrid.com.

ENGLISH BUSINESS TRAINER. The Language Grid seeks motivated EMT trainers to work in a business environment. Offering part-time and full-time positions on long term contracts with paid holiday, bonuses & benefits. Opportunity for career development. Apply via email: info@thelanguagegrid. com with CV, photo & cover letter. info@thelanguagegrid.com.

ENGLISH KS1 TEACHER. Acorn House International school is looking for an English KS1 teacher to start immediately in Rome. Acorn House International is looking for a dynamic, creative and experienced Year 2 teacher wishing to be part of an innovative teaching team. V level, full time contract, info@acornhouse.school.

ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE TEACHERS. Full time English Language Teachers for our schools in Rome. Candidates must be native speakers and have: a degree, teaching experience, relevant teaching certification. Positions starting immediately. Contact info@englishscool.it.

HALF-TIME ADMIN SUPPORT FOR A NEW START-UP CONCEPT. Fluent English and Italian is essential. You must live in Rome. The concept is related to exporting high-end Italian products globally to a current database of 50,000 clients. Market, product and supplier research will be necessary. It is not a high-pressure role but more of an administrative and research role with clear direction from directors.

Contact annalisa@uhs-group.com.

QUALIFIED BILINGUAL MIDDLE SCHOOL MATHS TEACHER. Required for full time position starting September 2017. Must be experienced and have valid E.U. working documents.

Please send CV to office@castelliinternational.it.

THE KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE IS SEEKING. The Keats-Shelley House is seeking a part-time guide/ museum assistant who can work from April 2017. Essential requisites: English as native language, good knowledge of Italian, ability to work on Fridays and Saturdays. A genuine interest in Eng-

44

Wanted in Rome | April 2017

lish literature, the ability to work in a shop and IT skills will be considered a plus. Interviews will be held during the first half of April.

Please send CV + Cover Letter (which will clarify the abovementioned requisites) by 4 April to: info@ keats-shelleyhouse.org.

TOUR PROMOTER. Tour Operator seeks highly motivated individuals, energetic and able to work independently as well as in a team.

We are looking for promoters to sell Colosseum tours. We require fluency in one or more of the following languages: English, German, Spanish, Russian and Chinese. Potential for great money. You’ll be working in an international environment and in a friendly atmosphere. Basic sales training provided. Contact walczakmagda@ gmail.com.

TRAINING SCUOLA DI LINGUE IS SEEKING. Mothertongue qualified English teachers required for company courses in Rome. Please send CV to info@trainingclub.com.

Jobs wanted FULL TIME HOSTESS FOR TEA ROOM. Full time hostess for tea rooms and restaurant in the centre of Rome. Fluent English and Italian spoken. Job contract; paid stage for one year contract. rina@babingtons.com.

Lessons FRENCH QUALIFIED TEACHER. Need to learn French for fun, business or culture? English, Italian, Spanish speaking. Loves teaching, your house

or mine. Please leave telephone number on email. Tel. 329 / 9823826; f.bessoles.rm@gmail.com.

poetry GIORNATA MONDIALE DELLA POESIA. Giornata mondiale della poesia.

“Ei fu. Siccome wanted.” sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

KISS. I met you in a restaurant over a glass of beer and another one. I didn’t imagine you could become so important. Union between two persons like hundred musical notes which link to form a beautiful song. God bless you, Laura. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

TERROR IN THE MIRROR. Anymore days in Europe taking a metro and exploding in the air. Anymore days in the city going around to zigzag between the waste. Anymore days at home watching the television quite capable to say that someone killed the pope. sernicolimarco@ gmail.com.

IMMIGRANTS WHERE? Europe government blamed each other. sernicolimarco@gmail.com

Property for sale in town MINI APARTMENT FOR SALE ST PETER AREA. Vatican area. Ground floor cute apartment. One room, one kitchen, bathroom and changing room for sales. Call Santoloci 335 / 8018871.

PENTHOUSE FOR SALE, BARE OWNERSHIP. Penthouse for sale, bare ownership, Via Nicola Fabrizi 1, Rome.

Located on the Gianicolo, Trastevere quarter, in the historical centre of Rome. The apartment is 68 sqm, including 16 sqm of terrace overlooking the Gianicolo park and the church of S. Pietro in Montorio. It has a panoramic view on the city and the Castelli Romani, and is situated in a distinct and prestigious environment, adjacent to the American Academy, the Embassy of Spain, the Spanish Academy, and Villa Sciarra. Trastevere is steps away, reachable through a private, gated external pathway that is part of the residential complex. The penthouse is on the fifth floor of a 1930s building, and is served by an elevator that reaches the fourth floor. It comprises a generous foyer, a large bedroom, bathroom, kitchenette and wide living room with a working fireplace and large beautiful terrace. The apartment is in excellent condition, well tended, very bright and comfortable. Autonomous heat and air conditioning. Asking price €420.000 for sale bare ownership. The bare owner is exempt from paying IMU and TASI taxes, while being responsible for extra maintenance costs. Contact: Maria Pia Parisi : tel. +39 338 34 21 628 pia.parisi@operissimo.com. No agencies.

Rooms and flat shares BEAUTIFUL, CLOSED- OFF, PRIVATE ROOM IN A RENOVATED APARTMENT. Beautiful, closed- off, private room in a renovated apartment close to Girabaldi’s statue and Gianicolo. A private bathroom with endless hot water. Use of fully equipped kitchen, and two balconies with views.

Sunny with great energy. There are two terraces that receive sunlight all day.

The room has black- out shutters for a good night’s sleep. It is a quiet neighborhood and well connected to public transportation. It is easy to reach from Fiumicino on a train that costs only €8.

There are many supermarkets, bars, and cafes with friendly Italians who love to host travelers! For info please contactroberta.stellato@hotmail.it.

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Wanted in Rome | April 2017

Schools and colleges ESE MASTER PROGRAMME, APRIL INTAKE 2017. The Master Programmes at ESE are designed to develop the personal and professional strengths of the individual student.

The entrepreneurial education received at ESE is intended to assist individuals in defining their professional dream and put them on a specially tailored career path. ESE Master ‘s students may specialise in Marketing, Finance or Management and are also given the opportunity to further specialise in their sector of interest through the international internship placement programme.

The internship is an integral part of the course of study and provides each student the opportunity to spend a 3 months working in the field of the chosen specialisation. This enables students to have excellent opportunities to enter the job market and gain exposure.

ESE students have possibility to: study abroad with ESE centres worldwide; specialise in cutting-edge business sectors, such as fashion, film industry, events, music, sport, art, media and human resources among others; complete internships, selecting from more than 1500 leading organisations

around the world. Intake Dates: April, September 2017. Courses Duration: 12 months in class (15-18 hrs per week) + 3-6 months internship. Language of Instruction: English. To apply http:// apply.eselondon.ac.uk/Ma/. Please do not hesitate to contact our centre for further details: ese.roma@uniese.it, tel. 0648906653, www.uniese.it, www. eselondon.ac.uk.

useful

numbers ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490. www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 333 / 8466820 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637, www.saintlouisdefrance.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com S. Susanna Lending Library Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 064827510 Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30 Tues 10.00-13.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Fri 13.00-16.00

The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details.

Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel. 068553485 Cinema Doria Via Andrea Doria 52, tel. 0639721446.

Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395 Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel.

334 / 1780632, www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 emergency numbers

books

chiamaroma

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222

cinemas

• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel.

800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 April 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881, Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 389 / 9691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 334 / 2934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Sunday

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Wanted in Rome | April 2017

service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www. caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787, Sunday service 10.00 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 St Susanna Church (Roman Catholic), Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel.

0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel.

892021, www.trenitalia.it