14. Christmas Masses and religious services in English
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DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985.
Finito di stampare il 28/11/2025
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26 EXHIBITIONS
8
INTERVIEW WITH HEAD OF NEW SCHOOL ROME
4 CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR IN ROME
32 culturE news
Opera CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR IN ROME
A QUICK GUIDE TO THE FESTIVE SEASON IN THE ETERNAL CITY
Andy Devane
Christmas is a magical time in Rome, particularly for children. Streets in the historic centre twinkle with lights, red carpets are laid outside shopfronts, and the city’s churches come to life with Nativity scenes, some of which feature real, live people.
Christmas in Rome is a less glitzy experience than in North America and northern Europe, revolving more around cultural and religious traditions, family and food.
Immacolata
For many in Rome the festive season begins on 8 December, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, a public holiday in Italy.
On this day, according to tradition, Romans decorate their homes for Christmas with seasonal plants such as the poinsettia and butcher’s broom, an evergreen shrub spotted with red berries. The date also signals the official start of the shopping season in Italy.
Pope Leo will mark the Catholic holy day by laying a floral wreath at the statue of the Madonna at Piazza Mignanelli, near the Spanish Steps, at 16.00.
Christmas trees
The Vatican's Christmas tree in St Peter's Square - a 27-metre-high red fir from the Val d'Ultimo in the northern province of Bolzano - will be joined by a Nativity scene from Italy's southern Campania region.
The Vatican's Christmas tree and Nativity scene (archive photo).
Traditions
Rome's Christmas tree, in Piazza del Popolo, will be illuminated on 8 December.
Christmas carols and concerts
The Pontifical Irish College community holds its annual Advent liturgy followed by Christmas carols on 7 December at 18.00.
The Vatican’s annual charity concert will take place in the Auditorium Conciliazione on 13 December, featuring Italian and international musicians, while the popular Roma Gospel Festival returns to the Auditorium Parco della Musica during Christmas week.
Christmas cribs
Although there are Christmas mangers and Nativity scenes in churches throughout the capital, the main draw is 100 Presepi, the international crib exhibition, held under the colonnade of St Peter’s from 8 December until 6 January 2025.
Christmas Markets
Rome has plenty of Christmas markets over the festive period, the best known of which is the Mercatino della Befana in Piazza Navona, open every day until 6 January.
Christmas for kids
Children enjoy the carousels, ice-skating rinks and fun on offer at Christmas World in Villa Borghese and the Auditorium Parco della Musica, where Santa Claus makes an appearance.
Christmas Eve
Most Roman families gather on Christmas Eve to share a substantial fish dinner which, in contrast to the US and northern Europe, is the main family meal. Those planning to dine in Rome restaurants over the festive period are advised to book well in advance due to high demand.
Religious services
Midnight Mass, which rarely occurs at mid-
night anymore, is held at parish churches across Rome, including the Papal Mass in St Peter’s Basilica at 21.30. The next day, large crowds gather in St Peter’s Square at noon to be blessed by Pope Leo as he delivers his annual Urbi et Orbi message “to the city and the world”.
For Christmas religious services in English see our guide on page 14.
New Year’s Eve in Rome
Moving on to New Year’s Eve, known as the Festa di S. Silvestro in Italy, the traditional meal consists of cotechino (a product similar to salami), zampone (stuffed pig’s trotter), and lentils which are believed to bring luck for the coming year, all washed down with a glass or two of prosecco or spumante.
A well-known but now almost extinct tradition associated with capodanno in southern Italy involves people throwing old objects
Rome hosts a Christmas market in Piazza Navona.
Rome lights up Via dei Condotti for Christmas.
out the window, symbolising their readiness to welcome in the new year.
Public transport
The capital’s public transport services usually follow a reduced timetable on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.
Tiber dive
On New Year’s Day one of the city’s most unusual and popular sights takes place at midday on Ponte Cavour. As soon as the cannon fires on the Gianicolo to mark midday, daredevil divers thrill the crowds by making the 17-metre plunge, known as the Tuffo nel Tevere into the icy waters of the Tiber below.
New Year’s Day Parade
Later in the day, American and Italian high school marching bands will stage a free, family-orientated parade in central Rome. The 15th edition of the New Year’s Day event starts in Piazza del Popolo at 15.30, running along Via del Corso, Via Frattina, Piazza di Spagna, Via del Babuino and Via di Ripetta in a colourful extravaganza lasting over two and half hours.
Winter sales
The post-Christmas clothes sales begin in Rome and the Lazio region on 3 January.
La Befana
On 6 January, Italians celebrate the religious Feast of the Epiphany, better known by its popular name of La Befana. In the Bible tradition, the feast of the Epiphany is when the three magi arrive in Bethlehem to visit the Christ child. In the popular tradition of the Befana, the story goes that the wise men invited a witch to join them on their journey to bring gifts to baby Jesus. She initially refused, but then tried to follow them. Unable to find Jesus she gave the toys to other children.
Traditionally children in Italy hang stockings by windows or fireplaces in anticipation of her visit, receiving sweets if they’ve been good or coal (nowadays usually made of sugar) if they misbehaved. The story of the Befana is re-enacted each year in Piazza Navona and the witch’s departing flight marks the end of the holiday season in Rome.
Rome will host a New Year parade through the city centre.
Education
INTERVIEW WITH HEAD OF NEW SCHOOL ROME
HEADTEACHER NORMAN DOYLE TALKS ABOUT LIFE AT THE NEW SCHOOL ROME
The New School Rome (NSR) curriculum follows the A-Level programme. How distinctive is this approach within the Roman or Italian educational landscape? What specific opportunities does it open up for students in terms of university access and global mobility?
We are the only school in Rome offering a complete suite of the Gold standard A-Level qualifications that are recognised by universities across the world. We are also one of only two schools in Italy to have an accord with the Italian Ministry of Education that allows our bilingual Italian speaking stu-
Marco Venturini
dents to sit the Esame di lingua e cultura italiana which, when combined with their A-Levels is recognised as an equivalent to the Italian Maturità, opening up even more opportunities for our students.
NSR is known for its small class sizes and strong sense of community. In your experience, how does this environment translate into academic performance, confidence, and overall student wellbeing?
With our small classes we can provide a bespoke curriculum for all of our students which focuses on individual strengths and potential. Our alumni often talk of the warmth and support they experienced as students and how this close personal touch encouraged their high performance. Year on year our students achieve excellent exam results and go on to attend elite universities in Europe and further afield.
Beyond academics, what would you identify as the school’s other core strengths? Are there particular programmes, values or traditions that you feel define the NSR identity?
Our Vision is ‘to create a community of lifelong learners who value inquiry, critical and creative thinking, and act with integrity and compassion.’ This focus on acting with integrity and compassion is supported by the high level of student leadership and participation in our decision making. All of our
Norman Doyle, Headteacher at the New School Rome.
students complete the Duke of Edinburgh International Award and many take part in our Model United Nations programme which builds public speaking skills whilst developing empathy for the plight of others.
The school has undergone several recent developments. Can you share more about these changes and what they aim to achieve? Are there any upcoming initiatives or long-term plans you’re particularly excited about?
Absolutely. We have just finished the redevelopment of our dining area and most excitingly we have opened an on-site kitchen for the first time in over 20 years, meaning we can now provide our students with freshly cooked organic meals.
Our next project is the construction of a new indoor sports facility which is on schedule to be ready for September 2026 and will allow us to host tournaments as well as provide a state of the art facility for regular PE lessons.
NSR welcomes students from ages 3 to 18, representing many different nationalities. How would you describe the dynamic between the various age groups? How does the school cultivate unity and interaction while meeting the needs of each developmental stage?
Our school is a ‘Family School’ where
friendships across year groups are common and our older students act as positive role models for our younger students. It is common to find our Sixth Formers reading to primary classes and coaching them in sporting activities. We hold regular whole school assemblies to ensure that a common school spirit is reinforced but at the same time our faculty are experienced age group specialists who are focused on the learning needs of each developmental stage.
With such an internationally diverse student body, what role does intercultural education play in everyday school life? How do students benefit from learning in such a globally minded environment?
We celebrate the national days and traditions of our diverse student body inviting students and parents to share their culture through special assemblies, international foods events, topical debates and even traditional dancing. This provides a ‘world centred’ education that leaves our students with a clear understanding of the importance of empathy for the other.
How does NSR support students’ transition between different stages of schooling—early years, primary, secondary and sixth form? Are there specific programmes that ease these academic and emotional transitions?
Yes, we have members of the faculty who
Students studying A Level art at the New School Rome.
work together on these key transitions, inviting students for ‘going up days’ as they make their transition through the key stages. We also have specialist tutors for each stage who help the students to navigate these changes and make sound decisions about subject choices, university destinations and career choices.
The A-Level programme allows for more specialised study. How does the school guide students in choosing the right subjects, and how early does this guidance begin?
It always starts with a focus on what our students enjoy most and where they have demonstrated affinity and strong progress. However, we are also great at signposting which subjects are required if a student has a particular undergraduate or career ambition ahead. The targeted guidance begins in Year 9 (age 13/14) and continues throughout the rest of our students’ education.
In an era of rapid technological, cultural, and social change, how is NSR adapting its teaching methodologies to prepare students for the world they will enter after graduation?
As for all schools, the most prescient challenge is that posed by AI. As a faculty we are busy upskilling to ensure that we can equip students with the tools to use AI with academic integrity and to understand the power that they have at their fingertips. Increasingly the faculty are also using AI and other technologies to develop their own teaching and learning and to create exciting, dynamic lessons.
Finally, what do you hope each student takes with them when they leave NSR— academically, personally, and as global citizens?
I will return to our Vision here, ‘to create a community of lifelong learners who value inquiry, critical and creative thinking, and act with integrity and compassion.’ It is a cliché, but we are greeting future leaders and it is our hope that those leaders will adopt these characteristics and make decisions in their futures that will genuinely improve the lives of others as well as themselves.
New School Rome, Via della Camilluccia 669, tel. 063294269, www.newschoolrome.com.
A key part of the New School Rome is engagement in outdoor learning and play.
BEST THINGS TO DO IN ROME IN DECEMBER 2025
GUIDE TO WHAT’S ON IN ROME THIS MONTH
December is perhaps the most magical time to visit Rome as the Eternal City prepares for the festive season with twinkling decorations, church concerts and Christmas markets.
There are plenty of traditions to look forward to in December including the lighting up of Christmas trees in Rome as well as the Vatican where the ongoing Jubilee Year is drawing to a close.
Museums and culture
Più libri più liberi, the national fair for small and medium Italian book publishing houses will be held at Rome’s futuristic Nuvola conference centre from 4-8 December, offering more than 500 literary events.
Those in Rome on Sunday 7 December can enjoy a Free Museum Sunday, when Italy’s
state museums and archaeological sites open their doors for free on the first day of the month, along with city-run museums.
This means that practically all museums in Rome will be free on 7 December - excluding the Vatican Museums - but be warned that landmarks such as Galleria Borghese and the Pantheon need to be booked in advance.
Festive season
Christmas World, a festive open-air event hailed as one of the largest Christmas villages in Europe, returns the Galloppatoio in Villa Borghese from 29 November to 11 January 2026.
The Vatican’s Christmas tree and Nativity scene in St Peter’s Square will be illuminated on 6 December.
The ‘Befana’ Christmas market in Piazza
Lifestyle
Navona is set to open on in the first week of December however there is a question mark over the popular event this year due to building works outside the church of S. Agnese in Agone (we will update this article when the city makes an official announcement).
The EUR district of the city is set to host a 50-metre high ferris wheel over the festive season as part of Christmas celebrations.
Immacolata holiday
8 December is a public holiday in Italy for the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, with the pope traditionally paying homage to the Virgin Mary at the statue in Piazza Mignanelli near the Spanish Steps.
The date also marks the official start of the Christmas shopping season in Rome and is usually when Rome lights up the Christmas tree in Piazza del Popolo, and the lights along the central Via del Corso.
This year the capital will celebrate the Immacolata by opening two new Metro C subway stations, at the Colosseum and Porta Metronia, and reinstating the trams which have been out of action for the past two months.
Art and exhibitions
New exhibitions in Rome in December include Cartier & Myths at the Capitoline Museums, featuring Cartier’s luxury jewellery displayed among the museum’s ancient sculptures; Impressionism and Beyond:
on 8 December.
Masterpieces from the Detroit Institute of Arts at the Ara Pacis (from 4 December); and Uunaroma, a large collective exhibition at MACRO showcasing Rome’s contemporary artistic scene, (from 11 December).
Other popular ongoing exhibitions include Treasures of the Pharaohs at the Scuderie del Quirinale, Alphonse Mucha at Palazzo Bonaparte, and a celebration of historic gardens and villas at Palazzo Braschi.
Opera, classical music and gospel
It wouldn’t be Christmas in Rome without Tchaikovsky’s mesmerising ballet The Nutcracker, which tells the story of a little girl who goes to the Land of Sweets, staged at Rome’s opera house from 17-31 December.
The Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia’s December programme of classical music concerts includes a performance of Händel’s Messiah (14 December) and Daniel Harding conducting Mahler’s Third Symphony (1820 December).
The Roma Gospel Festival returns to Rome from 20-31 December for its 26th edition, with acts including the Harlem Gospel Choir and the Charleston Gospel Choir.
For more events and things to do in Rome see the What’s On section of our website.
Pope Leo will pay homage to the statue of the Virgin Mary in Piazza Mignanelli
Poster for the Più libri più liberi book fair
Christmas Masses and religious services in English
All Saints' Anglican Church
Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881.
24 Dec. Crib Service for children 17.00. Mass 23.30.
25 Dec. Holy Communion 10.30.
Rome Baptist Church
S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652.
24 Dec. Worship 10.30. Christmas Eve Service, 19.00.
25 Dec. Christmas Day Service, 10.30.
St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church
Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627.
22 Dec. Blue Christmas Service 18.30.
24 Dec. Christmas Eve Service, 18.30.
St Patrick’s American Community (Roman Catholic)
Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 064203121.
24 Dec. Christmas Eve Family Mass 16.30. Concert 19.00. ‘Midnight Mass’ 19.30.
25 Dec. Christmas Day Masses 09.00 and 10.30.
St Paul’s Within-the-Walls (Episcopal Church)
Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339.
24 Dec. Musical Prelude 22.30. First Eucharist of Christmas (English & Italian) 23.00.
25 Dec. Second Eucharist of Christmas (English & Spanish) 10.30.
S. Isidoro Church (Roman Catholic)
Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359.
24 Dec. Christmas Eve 'Midnight Mass' 21.00.
25 Dec. Christmas Day Mass 10.00.
S. Silvestro in Capite (Roman Catholic)
Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121.
24 Dec. Mass at 19.30.
25 Dec. Christmas Mass at 10.00 and 17.30.
St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic)
Via della Caravita 7.
23 Dec. Lessons and Carols 19.00.
24 Dec. Christmas Eve Mass 19.00.
25 Dec. Christmas Day Mass 11.00.
St Francis Xavier del Caravita
ARTandSEEK
English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com.
Bioparco
special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.
Bowling Silvestri
with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.
a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.
Casa del Parco
Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.
of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and -
Cinecittà World
of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.
Climbing
Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds.no/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.
Explora
creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.
Go-karting
Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it.
Hortis Urbis
Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.
Il Nido
Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.
Luneur
Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entr y fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.
Rainbow Magicland
divided into three categories: brave, ever yone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.
Zoomarine
other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.
Rome’s reputation as an important street art capital continues to grow with new murals by important Italian and international street artists appearing all the time. Most of the works are located in the suburbs, often far from the centre. Here is where to find Rome’s main street art projects and murals.
from the centre. Here is where to find the main street art projects and murals around Rome.
Esquilino
Esquilino
Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell’Architettura, Piazza Mafredo Fanti 47. Marconi
Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell'Architettura, Piazza Manfredo Fanti 47.
Marconi
The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense’s landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com.
The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense's landmark Gasometro. For details see www.999contemporary.com.
Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz
Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz
This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatting migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense
This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatters, many of them migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex and Diamond. See MAAM Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913.
Ostiense
Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fluviale.
Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fluviale.
Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale.
Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale.
Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali.
Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense.
Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.
Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.
Pigneto
Pigneto
Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.
Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.
Via Fanfulla da Lodi.
2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio.
Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca.
Via Fanfulla da Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca.
Prati
Prati
Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino.
Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino.
Primavalle
Primavalle
The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.
The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai.
Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro
Quadraro
Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure.
NidodiVespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano.
Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure. Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.
Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.
Rebibbia
Rebibbia
Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station.
Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi).
WelcometoRebibbiaby Zerocalcare. Metro B station.
S. Basilio
S. Basilio
SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain's Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.
SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain’s Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.
S. Giovanni
S. Giovanni
Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.
Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.
It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. Via Anton Ludovico.
It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. Via Anton Ludovico.
S. Lorenzo
S. Lorenzo
Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi.
Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159.
Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.
Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.
S. Pietro
S. Pietro
Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo.
Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo.
Testaccio
Testaccio
Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market.
Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market.
Tor Pignattara
Tor Pignattara
Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni.
Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta. Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51. Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni.
Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Serbelloni.
Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Serbelloni.
Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Alessi.
Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Alessi.
Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.
Tor Marancia
Herakut. Via Capua 14. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia
The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area's blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it.
The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area’s blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.
Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.
Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.
ROME'S MAJOR MUSEUMS
VATICAN MUSEUMS
Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.
Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.
STATE MUSEUMS
Baths of Diocletian
Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Borghese Museum
Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.
Castel S. Angelo Museum
Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine
Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.
Crypta Balbi
Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.
Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.
Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.
MAXXI
Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.
Palazzo Corsini
Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.
Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale
Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.
Palazzo Altemps
Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.
Palazzo Barberini
Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.
Villa Farnesina
Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.
CITY MUSEUMS
Centrale Montemartini
Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.
Capitoline Museums
Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.
Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna
Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.
MACRO
Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.
MATTATOIO
Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.
Museo Barracco
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi
Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets
Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Museo Canonica
Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).
Museo Napoleonico
Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.
PRIVATE MUSEUMS
Casa di Goethe
Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.
Chiostro Del Bramante
Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.
Galleria Colonna
Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.
Giorgio de Chirico House Museum
Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.
Keats-Shelley House
Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00.
Guided tours on prior booking.
Museo storico della Liberazione
Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.
Palazzo Merulana
Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.
Villa Farnesina
Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.
CITY MUSEUMS
Centrale Montemartini
Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.
Capitoline Museums
Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.
Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna
Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.
MACRO
Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.
MATTATOIO
Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.
Museo Barracco
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.
Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi
Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.
Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.
Museo Canonica
Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).
Museo Napoleonico
Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.
PRIVATE MUSEUMS
Casa di Goethe
Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.
Chiostro Del Bramante
Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.
Galleria Colonna
Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.
Giorgio de Chirico House Museum
Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, rst Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.
Keats-Shelley House
Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.
Museo storico della Liberazione
Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.
Palazzo Merulana
Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.
ROME’S
MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY
ART GALLERIES
1/9 Unosunove
1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.
A.A.M. Architettura
Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www. -maam.it.
Contemporary Cluster
Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.
C.R.E.T.A.
Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Del ni, Via dei Del ni 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.
Dorothy Circus Gallery
Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.
Ex Elettrofonica
This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.
Fondazione Memmo
Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespeci c exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.
Fondazione Pasti cio Cerere
This non-pro t foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pasti ciocerere.com.
Fondazione Volume!
The Volume Foundation exhibits works created speci cally for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.
Franz Paludetto
Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.
Frutta
This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.
Gagosian Gallery
The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.
GALLA
Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at a ordable prices by artists working in various elds. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.
Galleria Alessandro Bonomo
Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.
Galleria Valentina Bonomo
Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works speci cally for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.
Galleria Frammenti D’Arte
Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.
Galleria Lorcan O’Neill
High-pro le international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.
Galleria della Tartaruga
Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.
Galleria Il Segno
Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.
Galleria Mucciaccia
Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.
Galleria Russo
This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.
Galleria Varsi
A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di A ogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.
Gavin Brown's Enterprise
New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.
Il Ponte Contemporanea
Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of di erent generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.
La Nuova Pesa
Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.
MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea
Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.
Magazzino d’Arte Moderna
Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.
Monitor
This contemporary art gallery o ers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.
Nero Gallery
Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.
Nomas Foundation
Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com. Operativa Arte Contemporanea
A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.
Pian de Giullari
Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.
Plus Arte Puls
Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.
Sala 1
This internationally known non-pro t contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.
S.T. Foto libreria galleria
Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.
Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri
The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.
T293
The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.
The Gallery Apart
This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.
TraleVolte
Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.
Von Buren Contemporary Rome-based gallery specialising in a ordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.
Wunderkammern
This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.
Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin
Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria o ers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.
where to go in Rome WHAT’S ON
Treasures of the Pharaohs at the Scuderie del Quirinale. See page 32.
EXHIBITIONS
PAVEL PEPPERSTEIN: BEFORE AND AFTER THE MAGIC MOUNTAIN
4 DEC-20 JAN
Rome's Antichità Alberto Di Castro presents Before and After the Magic Mountain, an exhibition by the Russian artist and writer Pavel Pepperstein. The show is curated by Alistair Hicks, Siena Hicks and Denise Di Castro and organised in collaboration with Purdy Hicks Gallery, London and Iragui, Paris, for the second chapter of The Contemporary Wall, a series of contemporary art exhibitions curated by Denise Di Castro. The exhibition features early graphic works by the artist, as well as works that span Pepperstein’s life and creative path, from 1978 to the present day. The early works on display include those created by the artist, then Pavel Pivovarov, who adopted his pseudonym after becoming enchanted by reading Thomas Mann’s novel The Magic Mountain at the age of 13. In 1987 Pepperstein became one of the three founders of the group Inspection Medical Hermeneutics (1987–2001) whose members produced a series of staged photographs taken at the Schatzalp Hotel in Davos for a group exhibition in Zurich in 1992. Formerly a sanatorium, this hotel is believed to have been the prototype for the Berghof Sanatorium described by Thomas Mann in The Magic Mountain. These photographs are included in the exhibition as accompanying documentary material. Antichità Alberto Di Castro, Piazza di Spagna 5.
IMPRESSIONISM AND BEYOND
4 DEC-3 MAY
The Ara Pacis Museum in Rome will host an exhibition showcasing 52 masterpieces from the collection of the Detroit Institute of Arts, one of the most important museums in the United States. The exhibition traces the development of modern paint-
ing from the origins of Impressionism through the Post-Impressionist movements and into the avant-garde of the early 20th century. The show features major works by artists including Van Gogh, Monet, Renoir, Degas, Cézanne, Matisse, Picasso, Modigliani and Kandinsky. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, www.arapacis.it.
LA GRECIA A ROMA
29 NOV-12 APRIL
The Capitoline Museums present an exhibition which explores the legacy of Greek art within Roman culture, featuring more than 150 works, some of which have never gone on public display. The Greek treasures reveal an "artistic encounter that redefined identity, power and beauty in ancient Rome", organisers say, describing the exhibition as "an immersive journey
La Grecia a Roma at the Capitoline Museums.
Pavel Pepperstein at Antichità Alberto Di Castro. Basterville Congress, 1981.
Impressionism and Beyond: Rome hosts Masterpieces from the Detroit Institute of Arts at the Ara Pacis Museum. Renoir, Woman in an Armchair.
that retraces the encounter between two extraordinary civilizations, protagonists of a dialogue that shaped Western taste and aesthetics". Masterpieces include the reunited Capitoline bronzes, alongside important monuments such as the magnificent stele from Grottaferrata Abbey, and the Niobidi sculptures from the Horti Sallustiani. Villa Caffarelli, Capitoline Museums, www.museicapitolini.org.
VILLE E GIARDINI: UNA CORONA DI DELIZIE
21 NOV-12 APRIL
An exhibition at Rome’s Palazzo Braschi museum pays tribute to the city’s unparalleled heritage of historic gardens, tracing for the first time the development of garden art from the 16th to the second half of the 20th century. Historic gardens were a status symbol of power, culture and refinement, as well as a propaganda tool for the popes, princes, and cardinals who owned them. The exhibition traces the history of these gardens up to their transformation into the public parks of today. Through 190 works, including paintings and landscapes, many of which have never been on public display, visitors will discover the original appearance of villas and gardens that have now disappeared or been completely remodelled. The exhibited works demonstrate the popularity of Roman gardens in the pictorial imagination, their use as a scenic backdrop for parties, celebrations and displays of power. Among the most significant works are the many depictions of Villa Borghese and Villa Medici, as well as a selection of paintings dedicated to vanished gardens, such as Villa Ludovisi and Villa Montalto Peretti. Palazzo Braschi, Piazza Navona 2, www.museodiroma.it.
CARTIER AND MYTHS
14 NOV-15 MARCH 2026
This exhibition creates a dialogue between exquisite jewellery pieces from the Cartier Collection and the ancient Roman sculptures and artefacts of Rome’s Capitoline Museums. The show explores how classical antiquity has been a constant
source of inspiration for Cartier’s designs since the mid-19th century. Cartier’s creations, which echo forms and deities of the ancient world, are displayed directly alongside classical marble sculptures of the museum’s permanent collection, offering a reflection on beauty, myth and continuity in art
across the centuries. Musei Capitolini, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, www.museicapitolini.org.
MARIA BAROSSO
17 OCT-22 FEB
Maria Barosso’s precious paintings capture a period of frenzied demolition and construction that forever
Ville e Giardini. Joseph Heintz il Giovane, Veduta di Villa Borghese.
Maria Barosso. Demolizione delle case in Via Cremona per gli scavi al Foro di Cesare.
Cartier and Myths at the Capitoline Museums in Rome.
changed the face of Rome. Centrale Montemartini hosts an exhibition of paintings by the artist and archaeologist Maria Barosso, who captured a Rome lost to demolition during the fascist period. The exhibition is dedicated to the precious work carried out by Barosso (18791960) who in the early decades of the 20th century played a crucial role in documenting the demolitions and major construction sites for the Superintendency of Rome and Lazio through her watercolours. Barosso was the first woman to hold the post of official at the general directorate of antiquities and fine arts in Rome, where she arrived in 1905, working with Giacomo Boni, then director of the Roman Forum excavations. She embarked on a career that led her to witness firsthand the capital’s significant urban transformations. As an artist and archaeologist, she distinguished herself with a unique combination of historic knowledge, scientific rigour and aesthetic sensitivity in documenting Rome’s archaeological heritage. The exhibition includes 137 works, including around 100 prints, drawings, watercolours and paintings by the Turin-born painter and archaeologist. The works reconstruct the events that forever changed the face of Rome: radical demolitions, sensational discoveries and dramatic interventions commissioned by the fascist regime. Centrale Montemartini, Via Ostiense 106, www.centralemontemartini.org.
DALI: REVOLUTION AND TRADITION
17 OCT-1 FEB
An exhibition of more than 60 works by Spanish surrealist master Salvador Dalí (1911-1989). The works on display include paintings and drawings from the Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí and other major international museums including the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza, Museu Picasso in Barcelona and the Uffizi Galleries. Organisers say the exhibition is enriched by photographic and video archives to offer visitor’s
a further glimpse into the painter’s visionary imagination, emphasising his intense connection with the great masters of the past such as Velázquez, Vermeer and Raphael, as well as his dialogue with his contemporary Pablo Picasso. Museo del Coro, Palazzo Cipolla, Via del Corso 320, www.museodelcorso.com.
TREASURES OF THE PHARAOHS
24 OCT-3 MAY
The Scuderie del Quirinale hosts a major exhibition dedicated to treasures from Ancient Egypt. Curated by Dr Tarek El Awady, the exhibition features more than 130 works from Egypt’s most important museums. The artefacts on display illuminate the origins of the Pharaonic
civilisation up to the New Kingdom – Ancient Egypt’s golden age, a period of immense wealth, power and territorial expansion into an empire – and the subsequent Third Intermediate Period. The show also includes some of the most significant archaeological discoveries in Egypt in recent years. Among the most important pieces on display will be the Menkaure Triad, the gold sarcophagus of Queen Ahhotep, the gold funerary mask of Amenemope, the gold funerary covering of Pharaoh Psusennes I, and statues of Sennefer, Ramses VI and Thutmose III. This is only the second time that Egypt has authorised the presentation of an exhibition of this importance in Italy, after the show at Palazzo Grassi in Venice
Treasures of the Pharaohs at the Scuderie del Quirinale.
in 2002-2003 which featured 80 pieces. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via Ventiquattro Maggio 16, www.scuderiequirinale.it.
ALPHONSE MUCHA
8 OCT-8 MARCH
Palazzo Bonaparte dedicates an exhibition to the career of Czech artist Alphonz Mucha (1860-1939), best known for his Art Nouveau decorative depictions of women. Organisers say the exhibition will present “not only the most extensive and comprehensive exhibition ever held on Mucha but also expand the scope to include the great artists of all time who have explored the theme of beauty and feminine seduction.” The exhibition features more than 150 works by Alphonse Mucha, retracing his entire career, alongside Botticelli’s Venus on loan from the Royal Mu-
seums of Turin. Also on display are works by Giovanni Boldini, ancient statues, Renaissance works, Art Nouveau furnishings and objects. Palazzo Bonaparte, Piazza Venezia 5, www.mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.
GAUGUIN: THE JOURNAL OF NOA NOA AND OTHER ADVENTURES
6 SEPT-25 JAN
Rome’s Museo Storico della Fanteria dedicates an exhibition to the pioneering Post-Impressionist master Paul Gauguin (1848-1903). The exhibition, inspired by the diary the French artist wrote after his first stay in Tahiti in the early 1890s, is accompanied by magnificent woodcuts illustrating its contents, recounting life on the Polynesian islands, their myths and ancient beliefs. Among the highlights on display is a draw-
ing, Study of Arms, Hands, and Feet, from a celebrated collection that survived the burning of Gauguin’s possessions, ordered by the island’s religious authorities. An entire section is dedicated to the sculptures created by the artist during that period, along with a series of lithographs from the book Avant et Après, considered Gauguin’s spiritual testament. A curious element of the exhibition is his personal notebook, where among sketches and studies of figures and animals, there is also an in-depth account of the paintings sold, exchanged or donated from that time. The Museo Storico della Fanteria is located in Piazza Santa Croce in Gerusalemme 7. For information and booking contact prenotazioni@navigaresrl.com.
FLOWERS: FROM THE RENAISSANCE TO ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE
14 FEB-18 JAN
Rome’s Chiostro del Bramante presents a vibrant exhibition that celebrates the evocative power of flowers, from the Renaissance to the age of artificial intelligence. Combining art, science and technology, the exhibition offers a journey through five centuries of art, culture and innovation, from the masterpieces of Jan Brueghel and Ai Weiwei up to contemporary digital art. “Fragile and powerful, flowers speak a universal language capable of spanning centuries and cultures”, providing an inexhaustible source of inspiration for artists of all ages, organisers say. The exhibition comprises more than 90 works from prestigious institutions including Rome’s Galleria Borghese, the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay, the Petit Palais and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. The show also contains works from the botanical and scientific collections of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew in London and the Museo Civico di Zoologia in Rome. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.
Alfonz Mucha at Palazzo Bonaparte.
Gauguin at Museo Storico della Fanteria.
CLASSICAL
ACCADEMIA NAZIONALE DI SANTA CECILIA
ANDRÁS SCHIFF
3 DEC
A giant of classical piano, Schiff is renowned for his intellectually rigorous and deeply expressive interpretations of Bach, Beethoven, and Schubert. The Hungarian pianist presents a “surprise” recital: the pieces are chosen and introduced on the spot, in direct dialogue with the audience.
ANDREA LUCCHESINI
10 DEC
The Italian pianist, known for his poetic touch and authoritative command of the repertoire, returns to the Accademia stage to perform music by Berio (6 Encores and Sequenza IV), Liszt (Sonata in B minor) and Chopin (24 Preludes, Op. 28).
BEETHOVEN / BRUCKNER / TUGAN SOKHIEV
11, 12, 13 DEC
The first major symphonic cycle of the month welcomes Russian conductor Tugan Sokhiev to the podium, with pianist Jean-Frédéric Neuburger performing Beethoven’s Choral Fantasy and Bruckner’s Symphony No. 3 “Wagner-Symphonie” with the orchestra and choir of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia.
HANDEL’S MESSIAH
14 DEC
A quintessential part of any Christmas season is the performance of Händel’s Messiah, a masterpiece of the Baroque repertoire celebrated for its iconic Hallelujah chorus. Christophe Rousset conducts the
Monteverdi Choir and English Baroque Soloists, with soprano Ana Vieira Leite, mezzosoprano Sarah Connolly, tenor Andrew Staples and bass William Thomas.
MAHLER – SYMPHONY NO. 3 –DANIEL HARDING
18, 19, 20 DEC
Daniel Harding conducts the academy’s orchestra, choir and women’s chorus in a performance of Mahler’s Third Symphony, a cosmic journey in six movements, with mezzosoprano Wiebke Lehmkuhl.
All concerts take place in the Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30. For full details of tickets and performance times see S. Cecilia website, www.santacecilia.it.
LOHENGRIN
2, 5, 7 DEC
Rome’s opera house stages Lohengrin, a Romantic opera in three acts composed and written by Richard Wagner, first performed in 1850. Conducted by Michele Mariotti and directed by Damiano Michieletto, the production’s cast includes Clive Bayley as Heinrich der Vogler, Dmitry Korchak as Lohengrin, and Jennifer Holloway as Elsa. Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.
THE NUTCRACKER
17-31 DEC
It wouldn’t be Christmas in Rome without Tchaikovsky’s mesmerising ballet, staged in a production by Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, conducted alternatively by Nir Kabaretti and Carlo Donadio, with choreography by Paul Chalmer. Based on E.T.A. Hoffmann’s magical 1816 fairytale, The Nutcracker tells the fairytale story of a little girl who goes to the Land of Sweets on Christmas Eve. Teatro Costanzi, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.
Tugan Sokhiev conducts the orchestra of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia performing music by Beethoven and Bruckner.
Poster for Lohengrin at Rome’s opera house.
CULTURE NEWS
ITALY BIDS FAREWELL TO ORNELLA VANONI
Ornella Vanoni, the Italian pop singer, songwriter and actress whose colourful career spanned six decades, died at her home in Milan on 21 November aged 91, following a cardiac arrest. Born in Milan in 1934, Vanoni made her stage debut in 1956, achieving commercial success in the 1960s with hits including Senza fine and Che cosa c’è, both written by Gino Paoli, with whom she shared a long artistic collaboration. She also won the Festival of Neapolitan Song in 1964 with Tu si na cosa grande. Vanoni’s career included eight participations in Italy’s Sanremo Music Festival, clinching a second-place finish in 1968 with Casa Bianca, as well as coming fourth in three different editions over the decades. Vanoni sold more than 55 million records throughout her life and also worked as an actress in film and television.
ROME OPENS CASA PASOLINI
Rome has opened a new museum and cultural centre dedicated to the renowned Italian poet, director and intellectual Pier Paolo Pasolini to mark the 50th anniversary of his death in 1975. Located in the city’s northwest Rebibbia district, the apartment was Pasolini’s first Roman home, where he lived with his mother from 1951 to 1954 and began writing his celebrated
novel Ragazzi di vita. Now owned by the Italian state, the restored apartment on Via Giovanni Tagliere 3 will host guided tours, talks and cultural initiatives.
ROME HONOURS ROBERT DE NIRO
Hollywood legend Robert De Niro received Rome’s highest honour, the Lupa Capitolina, at a ceremony in city hall on 6 November. Rome mayor Roberto Gualtieri bestowed the 82-year-old actor with the award in tribute to “the cultural and artistic value of a career that has shaped the history of world cinema”, the city said. During his flying visit to the capital, De Niro inaugurated his new, luxury Nobu Hotel on Via Veneto.
JAMES SENESE DIES
James Senese, the celebrated Italian saxophonist, composer and singer-songwriter, died in Naples on 29 October at the age of 80. With a musical legacy spanning jazz, rock, soul and funk, Senese made his professional debut in the 1960s with the rhythm and blues band The Showmen. In the 1970s his jazz-rock group Napoli Centrale became a key part of the “Neapolitan Power” movement, forging a unique “Napoli Sound” by blending jazz, funk, blues and Neapolitan traditional music. After the group disbanded in 1978, Senese began a long collaboration with fellow musician Pino Daniele, parallel to a solo career.
Andy Devane
Ornella Vanoni
Roberto De Niro with Rome mayor Roberto Gualtieri
Casa Pasolini
James Senese
Share your passion for great music
Gift card
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2 tickets of your choice from the symphonic or chamber music season* (chamber music concerts: from €36 to €76; symphonic concerts from €46 to €108)
5 tickets for 5 concerts from the symphonic season* (1 ticket for each concert: from €92 to €216)
Available at the box office from December 6 to January 6, 2026.
Discover the concerts included in the offer at santacecilia.it/natale
*Excluding non-subscription and premium-price concerts
The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums.
Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it
MUSIC THE A TRE CINEMA VENUES
TRE MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com
Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct
Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct
Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct
Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it
Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct
Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com
Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it
classical cinema
RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it
Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com
Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com
RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it
Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org
Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com
There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.
Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org
All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org
There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.
All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org
Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7
Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com
Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7
St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it
S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona
St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it
S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com
cinema
The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals.
Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767
The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com
Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www auditorium.com
theatreCasa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it
theatre
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net
Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it
Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net
Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it
Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it
Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it
Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it
Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it
Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net
Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net
Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com
Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it
PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it
Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it
PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it
Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com
Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com
Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com
Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com
Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it
Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it
Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, www.teatrosangenesio.it
Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 www.teatrosangenesio.it
Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it
Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it
Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it
Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel. 065898031, www.teatrovascello.it
Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it
Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it
By Kate Zagorski
PANGIALLO: ROMAN CHRISTMAS CAKE
PANGIALLO HAS BEEN A TRADITIONAL CHRISTMAS TREAT IN ROME SINCE ANCIENT ROMAN TIMES
Literally meaning “yellow bread,” pangiallo is a traditional Roman sweet eaten at Christmas.
It is made from a mixture of dried and candied fruit, nuts, citrus peel, honey and dark chocolate which are combined and formed into a dome shape. The cake is brushed with a sa ron glaze and baked in the oven to create a golden yellow outer crust and a dense, rich, sticky interior.
Pangiallo is originally an ancient recipe from the Roman Imperial age when it was made and gifted during the winter solstice to wish for the return of the sun, hence its colour and round shape.
Nowadays pangiallo is harder to track down than the more di used festive treats such as panforte or panpepato, yet it can still be found in some of the artisanal bakeries of the city around the yuletide period.
However, preparing pangiallo at home is very simple and will ll your house with a delicious warm aroma. The recipe below is a basic guideline, but you could also add dried gs, pine nuts or spices such as nutmeg, ginger or cinnamon according to your own taste. Once made it keeps well so it makes an excellent homemade Christmas gift for friends and family.
Ingredients
PANGIALLO
80g almonds
80g hazelnuts
80g walnuts
40g pistachios
100g sultanas
FOR THE GLAZE
40g mixed candied fruit
100g honey
100g dark chocolate
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Grated zest of 1 orange
80g our 00
2 small sachets of sa ron (2 x 0.1g bags)
2 tbsp our 00
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the dark chocolate into a glass bowl over a pan of boiling water and melt until smooth. While the chocolate is melting roughly chop the almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts and pistachios and put into a large mixing bowl. Add the grated lemon and orange zest, the sultanas and the candied fruit and combine everything together well using a fork. Add the honey and continue to mix as you gradually pour in the melted chocolate. Lastly add the our and, once combined, use your hands to push down and form a compact dough.
Place the dough on a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper and use your hands to mould it into a dome shape. To make the golden glaze put 2 tablespoons of our into a clean bowl, add the olive oil and sa ron and mix. Then gradually add cold water, bit by bit, until you have a thick, creamy texture. Brush the glaze over the top of the dome until it is completely covered then bake in the oven at 180°C for 35-40 minutes until the outer crust is rm.
Kate Zagorski has lived in Italy since 2000. Married to a food-obsessed Roman chef, she leads food tours and also works as a freelance food and travel writer.
The best wine bars in Rome: ten of our favourites that also serve
food
Sometimes an excellent wine bar can be even better than a good restaurant, and for this reason we have put together a definitive list
Brylla – Trieste
Brylla is a modern wine bar with a a very smart idea: Coravin. Thanks to an unusual contraption, the bottles can be opened but still keep well. The outcome is extraordinary, you can try a glass of anything on the menu. And that’s hundreds of different grapes, from a more modest wine to a Chateau Lafitte, either for a taster, by the glass, half bottle or bottle. There’s a fairly good menu too (but you could find better). Via Chiana 77, tel. 0685355669.
Fafiuché – Monti
Fafiuché is a small sanctuary, a haven, a shelter from life’s chaos. On a backstreet in Monti is the wine bar where you’ll find high quality Piedmont wines and also delicious dishes, such as braised meat, mixed plates of meats and cheeses accompanied by preserves. If you are lucky you might be able to nab one of the (few) tables outside. Via della Madonna dei Monti 28, tel. 066990968.
Litro – Monteverde Litro has much to say for it and little wrong with it: the location is great with a lovely outdoor space. The staff are passionate and attentive. The wine list (all organic) is excellent. The wines are made with the highest quality ingredients, unlike other wines you might find round and about. Via Fratelli Bonnet 5, tel. 0645447639.
Sogno Autarchico – Prati
Near the Sorpasso house, this venue isn’t particularly nice indoors – the room is crammed with a large bar, a few tables and a lounge area. But this wine bar earns a prized place on our list, thanks to Gianni Ruggiero, who is also the sommelier at Simposio. You’ll find regulars here spanning all sorts of ages, who hold this bar in high regard. Via Properzio 32, tel. 0668801310.
Il Sorí – S. Lorenzo
Small and cosy, an oasis in S. Lorenzo, hidden amongst an array of fast food eateries with outdoor seating. Sorì really knows its stuff about wines, and also about cooking. As well as other delicious dishes you can try the excellent Gallega octopus (€15), the crispy toasted patanegra (Spanish ham, the beef tartare or wild boar cheek. Via dei Volsci 51, tel. 3934318681.
Remigio Champagne e Vino – Appio
Remigio is a hidden gem between via Tuscolana and Appia. There’s a wide variety of champagne and sparkling wines available, but there are also
a great number of still wines to choose from. We recommend pairing a glass of wine with the steak tartare, which is one of the best around. All the dishes are excellent, especially the crostini, pastrami, and salted cod. Also open at lunchtime. Via S. Maria Ausiliatrice 15, tel 06789228.
La Barrique – Monti
At this very popular bar you can have an enjoyable meal alone, at one of the wooden tables, gazing at the shelves that show off the many wine bottles. The array of wines is truly excellent, and includes some organic bottles. They also offer wine by the glass, and you can choose between slightly cheaper wines or some rather special ones. There aren’t many dishes on offer, but there’s always something tasty. Via del Boschetto 41/b, tel 0647825953.
Il Goccetto – Historic centre
An institution, one of the city’s first wine bars, a cult spot for Romans and tourists looking for a touch of the gourmet. They both sit by the bar waiting for an extraordinary platter of meats and cheeses which they wash down with a glass of wine. Cosy and intimate, il Goccetto is a perfect mix between a wine bar offering 800 bottles and a Venetian bacaro (the venetian word for wine bar). Truly one of the best wine bars in Rome. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 14, tel 066864268.
Al Vino al Vino – Monti
While there might not always be an enthusiastic and jolly atmosphere it’s definitely worth a visit. The owner Giacomo is a man of few words, who watches football games on the television while preparing the cheese and meat boards. Unfortunately these are the only things on the menu, other than a very saucy aubergine parmigiana. We recommend taking your glass outside and watching passersby. There is a good selection of wines on offer. Via dei Serpenti 19, tel. 06485803.
Trimani Wine Bar – Fiume
Trimani has just celebrated its 25th birthday, and at this respectable age has certainly become one of Rome’s most classic wine bars. Elegant and a little formal, there’s an intimate atmosphere and an excellent kitchen. They serve an age-old dish, crostino with lard from the butcher Silvio Brarda and mozzarella. You can also enjoy carpacci, buffalo mozzarella and many other dishes. It is filled with tables, there are no stools at the bar. Via Cernaia 37, tel. 064469630.
Associations
American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org
American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org
Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com
Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com
Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli
Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net
Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com
Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com
Books
The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.
Almost Corner Bookshop
Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942
Anglo American Bookshop
Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222
Bibliothèque Centre Culturel
Saint-Louis de France (French)
Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it
La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French)
Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com
Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it
Religious
All Saints’ Anglican Church
Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881
Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30
Anglican Centre
Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com
Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00
St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org
Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30
St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish)
St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic)
Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30
Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00
Comunità di S. Egidio
Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234
Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat
Information line for disabled tel. 800271027
Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre
St Paul’s within-the-Walls
Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339
Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it
Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772
Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza)
Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351
Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104
The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022
Chiamaroma
24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606
Emergency numbers
• Ambulance tel. 118
• Carabinieri tel. 112
• Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336
