Wanted in Rome - August 2016

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august 2016 â‚Ź 2,00

The english language magazine in Rome

where to go in rome

art and culture entertainment GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 8, Numero 8



no. 8 / august 2016 editorials

THE LAZIO TOWN THAT REFUSES TO DIE Andy Devane . . . . . . . . . . . 2 ROME: LAYER BY LAYER Mike Dilien . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

what’s on

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 classical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 POP, ROCK, JAZZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 festivals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Opera notes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 cinema. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Academies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 books . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34


classified columns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 MISCELLANY

top 10 BEACHES NEAR ROME . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 TOP 10 OUTDOOR POOLS in rome. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 top 10 WATER SPORTS NEAR ROME. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 art galleries in rome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 rome’s cultural academies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 useful numbers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47


Next publication and classified dates Next publication dates are 7 September and 5 October. Classified advertisement placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 28 August (for 7 September) and 25 September (for 5 October). The office will be closed from 1-31 August. However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine.

Cassette e Contatori Watercolour, ink and pen on cardboard Arch. Fabio Barilari FBA www.fabiobarilari.com www.fabio-barilari.blogspot.com Wanted in Rome office Via di Monserrato 49 - tel/fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com

Direttore responsabile: Marco Venturini Editrice: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 Progetto grafico e Impaginazione: Monia Lucchetti - Dali Studio Srl Stampa: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. Diffusione: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 01/08/2016


Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Feltrinelli International, Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878. Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102. Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49. You can find us on

33 August 2016 | Wanted in Rome



Andy Devane


Efforts to save Civita di Bagnoregio have been in place for centuries but have stepped up a gear in recent years



uring a weekend in mid-July, the president of the Lazio region Nicola Zingaretti welcomed a group of Italian and international animators, cartoonists, illustrators and street artists to the spectacular mediaeval hilltop town of Civita di Bagnoregio in the province of Viterbo, 110km north of Rome. Entitled La Città Incantata (The Enchanted City), the event marked the second international meeting of designers who have united to “save” Civita from its impending demise. Perched on exceptionally unsound foundations, the hamlet has gradually been reduced due to centuries of earthquakes and landslides which have chipped away at its soft volcanic base. The original town centre remains intact, however, surging out of the desolate Calanchi valley whose chasms and chalky cliffs resemble a mini-Grand Canyon. Christened La città che muore by the Civita-born writer Bonaventura Tecchi, this “dying town” has long been condemned by authorities over fears that its collapse into the valley is not only probable but inevitable. Today the town’s community has dwindled to just ten permanent residents, although that number increases to around 100 during the summer months. Over the course of the three scorching July days, Civita became a hive of artistic activity. A heady festival atmosphere enveloped the town as people streamed across the steep, 275m-long footbridge from neighbouring Bagnoregio, located 1km to the east. Numerous big-name artists leant their support to an official campaign to highlight the “castle in the sky” which may not always be there to visit. American film director Mark Osbourne gave an animation master class and presented screenings of his critically acclaimed movies, the animated Kung Fu Panda and 3D stop-motion movie The Little Prince, while over the weekend visitors enjoyed an exhibition by globallyrecognised illustrators including Floren-

tine master Roberto Innocenti. Watched by onlookers, street artists created large works on canvas in the main square, animated short films were shown in the adjacent geological museum, and hushed “creativity jams” of sketching illustrators took place in surrounding buildings. Bonelli, the Italian publishing house of comics, presented its colourful publications at a large stand just inside the town’s Porta S. Maria gateway. Last autumn the Lazio region’s governor Zingaretti launched an online appeal, calling on UNESCO to recognise Civita as a World Heritage Site. Zingaretti stated that Civita is “now in extreme and urgent need of maintenance unless we wish to deprive ourselves forever of a sentinel of our cultural history, a piece of our heritage.” The campaign, which if successful would ensure a steady flow of conservation funding, has since registered more than 35,000 signatures, including those of former Italian president Giorgio Napolitano, film directors Bernardo Bertolucci and Giuseppe Tornatore, writer Andrea Camilleri, playwright Dario Fo, and composer Ennio Morricone. Zingaretti also saw that Lazio injected €1.2 million in shoring up the town’s shaky foundations to protect it from the erosion that “threatens its very survival.”

The concept of saving Civita, however, predates Zingaretti’s appeal by several centuries. Records show that the townspeople were taking precautions as far back as 1373 when the digging of caves was banned, along with grazing beneath the town’s cliffs, whose bedrock comprises a 60-m thick layer of tufa over an unstable base of clay and sand. Local church authorities saw the writing on the wall by 1699, transferring their diocesan base to Bagnoregio, followed by a mass evacuation of residents in 1819. More recently, the town in 1988 saw the birth of the Associazione Progetto Civita, an association of public and private institutions that has grown into a major cultural force, organising exhibitions in Italy as well as helping to promote the conservation of Civita itself. Over the last five years, geologists have drilled horizontal steel rods or “anchors” deep into the valley floor, which in turn are attached to plates on the cliff face, as well as filling cracks and emptying recesses of water. The town is about 1,200 years old but its origins date back to the sixth century BC and the Etruscans, whose caves can still be visited. Although Stone Age artefacts have been discovered in the area, there are no human traces from the subsequent Bronze Age. Experts believe this is due to the frequent volcanic activity in

Rome graphic artist Leonardo Carrano gives an animation workshop for La Città Incantata in Civita. Photos Sadie Devane. August 2016 | Wanted in Rome



Wanted in Rome | August 2016

TRIPS OUT OF TOWN the surrounding region around Monti Volsini – a minor mountain range in north Lazio – which led to the formation of the crater we know today as Lake Bolsena. Between the fifth and eighth centuries, Civita was almost continually subjected to siege, changing hands numerous times. It was first occupied by the Goths, then the Byzantines, followed by the Lombards, before becoming part of the Papal States in 774. It is also the home of the Franciscan saint Bonaventure, considered one of the greatest philosophers of the Middle Ages, whose birthplace and monastery seem to have disappeared into thin air. Modern-day Civita is not easy to reach, particularly by public transport, but like all good things it is well worth the effort. To access the town visitors must make their way over a narrow, steep footbridge, which is suspended at great height. There is a €1.50 charge to cross the valley, payable on the Bagnoregio side, and it is not uncommon to see less courageous people being led across with their eyes closed. Built in 1965, the concrete structure replaced a temporary wooden version constructed after German troops blew up the existing masonry bridge in 1944. Those in the tourism business wax lyrical about Civita, and it is easy to see why. It is beyond idyllic. The first glimpse of the town from the viewing point across the valley is jaw-dropping. Hydrangeas and geraniums tumble over its meticulously-kept stone footpaths; the lunchtime hum of conversation and clinking cutlery is offset by the cicada buzz rising from the valley below. Its beauty has caught the imagination of artists and filmmakers, notably Japan’s Hayao Miyazaki, who drew inspiration from Civita for his 1986 animated movie Laputa: Castle in the Sky, and Italy’s Alberto Sironi, who chose the hilltop town as the setting for his 2009 film Pinocchio, starring Bob Hoskins. The official travel guidebook uses effusive terms to describe Civita, “sur-

rounded in a fog of unreality” as if “an island in our memory or a figment of our imagination.” However despite Civita being promoted as the “hidden pearl in the heart of Lazio”, the reality is that the town’s supposedly secret status is long gone. One senses that visiting the place a couple of decades ago may have been more of an adventure. Civita has successfully branded itself, making much of its locally produced food and wine, and even has its own craft beer label. A sign on the door of Trattoria Antico Forno states: “The Rick Steves readers are welcome!” while the people behind the Acqua di Civita range of perfumes and soap boast of international sales and requests to launch their products in London and Tehran. Neither is Civita unique among northern Lazio “ghost towns” condemned for safety reasons – Calcata being the most obvious comparison. Like Calcata, Civita has no cars, post office, supermarket or pharmacy. However, unlike Calcata, which is relatively down-at-heel, Civita is twee and manicured, offering picturepostcard material at every turn. It also has the slick stamp of marketing all over it. The town’s unpaved main square, Piazza S. Donato, until the 1960s catered for a large circular olive oil press, operated by donkeys. These days the animals still make an appearance in the piazza

for the traditional donkey race, known as the tonna, a popular spectacle held in June and September each year. The piazza is also home to the S. Donato church, founded in the eighth century on a pre-existing Roman temple. Its walls are dotted with shrines and reliquaries, including a gold and silver arm containing bones of S. Bonaventura. Based at the newly-opened deli-bar Magna Civita, located on the edge of Bagnoregio before the viewing point and bridge, Valerio Simplicio is well placed to observe Civita’s tourists. “There has been a surge of tourism in the last two or three years, with a large number of international visitors, particularly from Asia,” he says. “The tourist season is all year round but spring is the busiest time – this Easter weekend alone we had 9,000 visitors.” So while Civita may be dying from a geological perspective, locals are embracing the tourists keen to visit the embattled town which, for now, refuses to go gently into that good night.

GETTING THERE The best way to reach Bagnoregio from Rome is to make the roughly 1.5-hour journey by car, taking the Orvieto exit off the A1 motorway. Trains depart from Roma Termini to Orvieto whose station is connected to Bagnoregio by Cotral bus. It is also possible to reach Bagnoregio by Cotral bus from Viterbo Porta Fiorentina (train from Roma Ostiense) but the Orvieto option is less complicated. The coaches are not very regular so check times before travelling. Orvieto is 20km away from Bagnoregio, Viterbo 30km, but both bus trips take about an hour.

USEFUL CONTACTS Comune di Bagnoregio www.comune.bagnoregio.vt.it Cotral bus www.cotralspa.it Associazione Progetto Civita www.civita.it

August 2016 | Wanted in Rome



Mike Dilien


Like Rome’s monuments, a stay in the Eternal City is a many-layered experience and needs time to appreciate


A-NI-MAL! A-NI-MAL!” three year-old Stivan yells. He is sitting on the kitchen floor and drumming on all our casserole dishes, which he has turned upside down. It is enough to drive Tsvetelina, his mother, up the wall. Meanwhile, I have to hurry for the airport to catch a flight to Rome. I first arrived in Rome on a February evening eight years ago. While admiring the dark pillars of the Fori Imperiali, I thought I had done the trick: a research project at La Sapienza university would allow me to live among the remains of the empire I had been studying all those years at school. Ironically, after having grown up among Italian immigrants, I would now become an immigrant in Italy. The mansard roof apartment I called home was superbly located: across from the Colosseum and halfway between the lab, where I would do research, and the faculty of engineering, where I would take courses. At lunchtime I would have a panino in front of S. Maria Maggiore or S. Giovanni, up and down the street respectively. Yet the crowd of sightseers by day and pub-crawlers at night made me


Wanted in Rome | August 2016

Tor Bella Monaca.

city Shacks in the Tor Sapienza suburb.

long for tranquillity. I moved to a place near the Caffarella park. I could not believe my luck when my flatmate, Luca, turned out to be a genuine Roman. On top of this, he was a student of archaeology and fluent in German – my Italian was a hit-andmiss mix of French and Spanish. We had long, interesting discussions on the Eternal City. I told Luca I was hesitating between exploring the city either geographically or chronologically. Luca was a museum guide and his father, an art teacher, had taken him to all the landmarks. Understanding Rome’s history, however, proved to be a lot harder than I had imagined it would be: thousands of years of civilisation had transformed nearly every building. For example, a temple has been turned into a church, then into a fortress and finally a warehouse. Meanwhile, at university, the promising professor who was to supervise my research project hardly had time for me. Because of his meagre salary he was doing a second job in an aeronautical centre in the south of Rome; he rushed through his fulltime university job on Wednesday

afternoon and Saturday. I got a first glimpse of the life locals have in a tourist hotspot. Luckily, a group of kind-hearted Spanish and Polish students welcomed me into their ranks. While my Spanish friends further introduced the tradition of the botellón in Roman nightlife, my Polish friends sobered my belief in USSR-style communism. We spent hours in S. Lorenzo and Trastevere. I learned about the different perspectives on life young people from the old and the new EU member states have. The European Football Championship in June 2008 became our apotheosis. The day of the final, we arrived early at the garden of the Circolo degli Artisti. The Spanish were worried. They worried about their striker. They worried about their goalkeeper in case of penalties. In the end, La Roja won. We went to the Trevi fountain to celebrate. Someone jumped in the basin and got arrested. Afterwards, we returned to Piazza dell’Immacolata. Two Italians, one playing the guitar, the other singing, performed a tarantella. The rhythm was thrilling. At the crack of dawn,

our group had one of its last breakfasts in Termini. And then came that long, lonely summer. One by one, my friends left Rome and returned to their home countries. Luca went scavenging in the Abruzzi. By then, the research project was heading towards failure: my promoter in Brussels had taken maternity leave and because of the confidentiality agreement I had signed at my home university my supervisor had lost all interest in the project. Now that I had more spare time, I explored the city. I wondered where the immigrants who always hang around in Termini disappear to after dark. When a compatriot of mine, a film student, told me about the documentary he was shooting in Rome’s suburbs, I wanted to explore the outskirts. While my friends visited Florence and Siena, I ventured into desolate places with unappealing names like Lunghezza and Martellona. Every morning, I bought a one-way ticket and took the bus. I got off at the last stop and then walked my way back home. I took photographs, not August 2016 | Wanted in Rome


city of ancient ruins or Baroque churches, but of Madonna statues at crossroads and newly-built ghost towns that had hit the countryside like a meteorite. During my wanderings, I met many immigrants. From east European builders and Latin American domestics to Indo-Asian kitchen porters: all people who were trying to make a living. I remember a Peruvian who wrote: “Non sono qui perché è uno dei posti più belli del mondo, ma soltanto per sopravivvere.” Whereas some migrants stay legally in Italy, many do so illegally. I did not realise I was witnessing the forefront of today’s refugee crisis. Even when exploring the capital’s Roma camps, I could not suspect a scandal of the nature and size of “Mafia Capitale”, a criminal syndicate accused of infiltrating city hall to win lucrative contracts in sectors such as immigrant housing and camps for Roma people. But what I did realise was that a delicate line separates an “expat” from a tourist and that another one, much sharper, separates a foreigner from an immigrant. One early autumn evening, while strolling along the ancient wall, I

Lunghezza, east of the capital.

S. Lorenzo, Largo degli Osci.

wondered whether the Lazio sun and the landmarks of the Eternal City were worth a sky-high rent and an unsatisfactory professional life. I finished the research project as well as I could and returned home. Back in Brussels, I became fascinated by mass tourism and the relationship between a city centre and its periphery. I enrolled for a BA degree in anthropology and geography. And what other place could quench my fascination better than a tourist hotspot like Rome? The following year, I returned to Rome to attend La Sapienza’s summer school. It offers courses on ancient as well as modern Rome and includes guided tours. Among my fellow students was Patrick. For the past 15 years, Patrick had been living in Italy, separated from his family who had remained in Sri Lanka. He worked as a porter in a five-star hotel. All those years he had been sending money home for the private education of his daughter. Now that the civil war in his country had ended, the certificate from the summer school would allow him to return home and become a tourist guide. One evening, Patrick called me asking me to come to the hotel. There

he showed me a magnificent suite, a fully-fledged apartment with a lot of tapestry where the manager of FC Barcelona had stayed. One night in the suite cost about a year of Patrick’s wages. Patrick then took me to his workplace, a majestic lobby hall. He lifted a thick curtain behind which stood two old wooden chairs. He showed me how he slept on them between two long work shifts. Since then I visit the Eternal City regularly. In Rome, I do fieldwork. At home, using geographical information systems, I create thematic maps. Luca and I meet every time both of us are in town – he is doing a PhD in Germany. Since my Roman experience, people from all over the world have stayed at my place in Brussels. Like Tsvetelina whose parents, Serbian Roma, fled the ethnic conflict. I take my bag, kiss Tsvetelina goodbye and promise Stivan that as soon as I am back, I will play the drums and imitate Animal the Muppet as many times as he wants me to. Even when you do not achieve your original objective, a stay in Rome – or any other place for that matter – will enrich you. Only, you will not realise this until much later. August 2016 | Wanted in Rome


TOP 10

BEACHES NEAR ROME For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, offers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities. We have indicated how to get there by public transport, as all these towns suffer from heavy traffic during the summer. S. Marinella The northern-most beach on our list offers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers. S. Severa Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place every July. Fregene A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to flock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour. Ostia/Cancelli Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli offer free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get off


Wanted in Rome | August 2016

S. Marinella

at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc. Anzio/Nettuno These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping first at Anzio and then at Nettuno. The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations. Anzio has the Blue Flag status given to beaches that meet the international quality standards for cleanliness both on the beach and in the water. Sabaudia Famous for its beauty and spaciousness, this stretch of beach is another Blue Flag area. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussolini-era architecture. S. Felice Circeo Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the Blue Flag beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it definitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get


off at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get off at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach. Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families. Sperlonga The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views and Blue Flag status, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get off at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket. Gaeta This Blue Flag area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get off at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it.

TOP 10

OUTDOOR POOLS IN ROME Come mid-summer in Rome, most of us are in need of the cool of an outdoor pool to relax by. But Rome isn’t awash with them and most are part of privately-owned swimming and sports clubs or upmarket hotels. Expect to pay upwards of €30 a day per person for entry to exquisitely chic surroundings at the top end of the spectrum, and nearer €8-€10 for perfectly adequate but sometimes crowded and scruffy cheaper pools. We’ve picked ten of Rome’s best, from New York-style rooftop pools with todie-for views over the city and a nice line in cocktails to family-friendly cheap and cheerful clubs. The € symbols represent ranking by price. 1. ALDROVANDI PALACE Small and very select city-centre oasis, La Ranocchia (meaning “little frog”) is shaded by overhanging palms and huge cream parasols. Arrive early as space is limited around this pool. MonSun 10.00-19.30. Mon-Sat €55, Sun €60, weekly pass €350. Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15 (Parioli), tel. 063223993, www.aldrovandi.com. €€€€ 2. BELLE ARTI Free at weekends and well worth a mention for its fantastic central location tucked behind a church on Via Flaminia. A quiet atmosphere makes it good for those with very young children. 08.0020.00 (€20). Via Flaminia 158 (Flaminio), tel. 063226529, www.circolotennisbellearti.it. €€ 3. CAVALIERI HILTON This Olympic-sized outdoor pool-witha-view is the crème de la crème of Rome’s pools if you like serious swim-


Radisson SAS Hotel

ming. It’s large, luxurious and well worth the trip to Monte Mario. With a separate children’s pool. 09.00-19.00 daily (weekdays €45, weekends €85, sun lounger and towel included). Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 (Monte Mario), tel. 0635091, www. cavalieri-hilton.it. €€€€€

8. PISCINA DELLE ROSE Large pool perfect for families, swimming and canoeing lessons. Mon-Fri 10.00-22.00, weekends 09.00-19.00 (€16 per day, €14 half-day). Viale America 20 (EUR), tel. 065926717, www.piscinadellerose.it. €€

4. CIRCOLO VALENTINI Slightly shabby but friendly, family-run pool, used by locals. The adjoining restaurant will make up a lunchtime salad for around €4. 09.00-19.00 (weekdays €10, half-day €7, weekends €13/€9). Via della Marcigliana 597, corner Via Bufalotta (Talenti/Prati Fiscali), tel. 0687120207, www.circolovalentini.it. €

9. RADISSON SAS HOTEL Seriously smart and stunning heated rooftop swimming pool with sections for children and adults and poolside fine dining. 09.00-19.00 (adults €45 Mon-Fri, €55 Sat-Sun, children 50 per cent off ). Via Filippo Turati 171 (Esquilino), tel. 06444841, www.radissonblu.com/eshotel-rome. €€€€

5. CLUB LANCIANI A large tennis club with an outdoor pool offering lessons, free swimming and a children’s summer school. MonFri 09.00-20.00, Sat 09.30-17.30, Sun 09.00-19.30 (€12/14). Via di Pietralata 135 (Tiburtino), tel. 064181401, www.clublanciani.eu. €€

10. S.S.D. VITA Professional, outdoor swimming pool arranges lessons for children and adults and has tennis courts and a gym. Mon-Fri 10.00-18.30. Adults €8 (€6 halfday) kids €6 (€4 half-day). Weekends 10.00-19.00. Adults €10 (€7 half-day) kids €8 (€5 half-day). Via del Fontanile Arenato 66 (Aurelio), tel. 066634202, www.vitaclub.it. €

6. GRAND HOTEL GIANICOLO Part of a luxury hotel, this pool is located in elegant surroundings with palm trees and views of Trastevere from the Gianicolo hill. Lunch and dinner served at pool-side restaurant. 09.00-19.00, daily pass €25. Via delle Mura Gianicolensi 107 (Gianicolo), tel. 0658333405, www. grandhotelgianicolo.it. €€

Piscina delle Rose

7. HYDROMANIA Think miles of water slides, wave machines, pools, South-Pacific-style thatched bars, shops and a mini-club. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends until 19.00 (weekdays: adults €16.50, children €11, half-day €11/€9; weekends: adults €20, half-day €15, children €15/€13). Casal Lumbroso 33 (Aurelio), tel. 0666183183, www.hydromania.it. €€ August 2016 | Wanted in Rome


TOP 10

WATER SPORTS NEAR ROME Ready to make a splash this summer? Rome and its environs offer many aquatic activities, both above and below water, which will help you do just that. Here are a few suggestions. BOATERS Canoa Kayak Roma Assex (Via A. Poerio 85, tel. 0658320923) offers both canoeing and kayaking lessons and can also accommodate people with disabilities. Centro Nautico Turano (www.lagoturano.com) will put the wind in your sails. Located just over an hour from Rome near Rieti, the centre offers sailing, windsurfing, canoeing and skiing on Lago Turano. BOARDERS AND SKIIERS The Parco del Tevere Watersports Complex (Via Tiberina km 8,300) has two private, artificial lakes and topnotch watercraft for creating the perfect water skiing and wakeboarding conditions. Open all day, all year. To learn how to windsurf, stop by Naloo Surf at Marino di Palo (www.naloosurf.it). For kitesurfing head to Talamone Kitesurf Windsurf Center on Monte Argentario near Porto S. Stefano (www. twkc.it). There are also several shops for your surfing needs all-year-round, including Point Break in Fregene (www.pointbreakfregene.com), which teaches

Rafting at Marmore Falls

surfing, SUP and many other water sports for all ages and skill levels. Dna Boards at Via Massaciuccoli 77 (tel. 0686329540) can help you find windsurfing, kiting and surfing equipment to meet your needs. DIVERS There are a couple of PADI Five Star Dive Centres in Rome, including Diving Blue World at Via Borghesano Lucchese, tel. 339/2162633. Acquazzurra Diving (www.acquazzurra.it), a PADI Five Star instructor development dive centre located on Via Tuscolana, prides itself on taking divers to the best sites near Rome such as S. Marinella, the Ventotene and Ponza islands, Lake Capo d’Acqua, Secce di Tor Paterno, a marine protected area, and many other underwater hotspots.

ADVENTURERS If you don’t mind going a little out of Rome to get in the water, consider heading to Lake Bracciano or Lake Albano, where motorised boat traffic is prohibited, making them serene locations for swimming, sailing, windsurfing and paddle boating. RAFTING For those not afraid of getting wet, and maybe a little wild, Umbria’s Rafting Marmore Falls (www.raftingmarmore. com), less than an hour from Rome, is the place to go. The operation guides groups of six down the Nera River through fourth degree rapids. Still sound too tame? Try hydrospeeding, essentially aquatic tobogganing, for a two-hour thrill ride. But if you prefer a more relaxing experience, take the easy rafting tour, designed for people of all ages.

August 2016 | Wanted in Rome


rome’s major

Museums vatican museums

For more details see www.museiincomuneroma.it and www.beniculturali.it.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. MonSat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va. Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons. org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums. state museums Baths of Diocletian Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Borghese Museum Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria. borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paint­ings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian. Castel S. Angelo Museum Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo. com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.


Wanted in Rome | August 2016

Crypta Balbi Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian. Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed. Palazzo Corsini Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.3019.30. Tues closed.

Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum

Palazzo Altemps Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. An-

Castel S. Angelo

Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed. Palazzo Barberini Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Palazzo Massimo alle Terme Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and an­tiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.0019.45. Mon closed. VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays. city museums Centrale Montemartini Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance. Capitoline Museums Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The mu-

nicipal modern art collection. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www. en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. Museo Barracco Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Museo Canonica Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance). Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Museo Napoleonico Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English. Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

private museums Casa di Goethe Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed. CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it. Doria Pamphilj Gallery Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00. Galleria Colonna Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance. GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE MUSEUM Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking. Keats-Shelley House Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking. August 2016 | Wanted in Rome


rome’s most active and contemporary

art galleries 1/9 Unosunove 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com. A.A.M. Architettura Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it. Associazione Culturale Valentina Moncada Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com. Dorothy Circus Gallery Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com. Ex Elettrofonica This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica. com. Federica Schiavo Gallery Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com. Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org. Fondazione Pastifico Cerere This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Fondazione Volume! The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery recently relaunched near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Franz Paludetto Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com. Frutta This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com. Gagosian Gallery The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com. Galleria della Tartaruga

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com. Galleria della Tartaruga Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com. Galleria Il Segno Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com. GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com. Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it. August 2016 | Wanted in Rome


MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it. Il Ponte Contemporanea Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 55-59, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com. La Nuova Pesa Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com. Magazzino d’Arte Moderna Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com. Monitor This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www. monitoronline.org. Monserrato Arte ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034.


Operativa Arte Contemporanea A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com. PIAN DE’ GIULLARI Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com. RvB ARTS “Affordable art” gallery specialising in contemporary painting, sculpture and photography by Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www. rvbarts.com. Sala 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com. s.t. foto libreria galleria Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a di-


Wanted in Rome | August 2016

STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it. T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it. The Gallery Apart This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it. TraleVolte This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org. Valentina Bonomo Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com. Wunderkammern This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net.

MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com. Nomas Foundation Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

verse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

where to go in rome

life in Catholic convents across Italy, as well as Orthodox communities in Greece and Russia, Copts in Egypt, Tibetan monasteries in India, Buddhists in Burma, and Taoists in China. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1B, tel. 065816563, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it.

exhibitions Capolavori della scultura buddhista giapponese exhibition at the Scuderie del Quirinale. Taizan Fukun (1237) by Kōsei.

CAPOLAVORI DELLA SCULTURA BUDDHISTA GIAPPONESE 29 July-4 Sept The Scuderie del Quirinale presents an exhibition of ancient Japanese Buddhist sculptures, national treasures on loan from major Japanese museums and temples. On display are 21 works from the Asuka era to the Kamakura period (sixth-13th century). The Buddhist religion and culture were introduced to Japan through the Korean peninsula in the sixth century. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 639967500, www.scuderiequirinale.it. FRANCO GIULI: OPERE DAL 2008 AL 2016 7 July-4 Sept The Museo Carlo Bilotti shows 30 works by abstract artist Franco Giuli who has worked between Rome and Le Marche since 1960. The exhibition examines the artist’s range of materials, in particular his recent cardboard series. Museo Carlo Bilotti - Aranciera, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 4, tel. 060608, www.museocarlobilotti.it.

Like a Bird, Not a Feather exhibition at Galleria Lorcan O’Neill. Canone aureo 482 by Giorgio Griffa.


Wanted in Rome | August 2016

DI VARI CREDI 29 June-4 Sept This exhibition, presented in parallel with the Vatican’s Holy Jubilee Year of Mercy, comprises Sebastiana Papa’s photographs of women’s monastic communities. The images were the result of ten year’s research in Italy and around the world, and feature in her book Le Repubbliche delle Donne. Monachesimo femminile nel mondo, 19671999. Papa captured images of daily

MINUTE VISIONI 25 June-31 Dec Around 100 objects are included in this exhibition dedicated to the meticulous art of micro-mosaic. The typically Roman technique reached its peak between the late 18th- and the mid-19th century, with dozens of specialist workshops located mainly between Piazza del Popolo and Piazza di Spagna. The pieces on display include paintings, tables, snuff boxes, plates, jewellery and paperweights, decorated with images of Rome as well as still lifes and animals. Museo Napoleonico, Piazza di Ponte Umberto I 1, tel. 060608, www. museonapoleonico.it. PAR TIBI, ROMA, NIHIL 24 June-18 Sept The exhibition takes place at various outdoor venues around the Palatine Hill and features the work of 36 artists, including the large-scale rainbow flag installation by French conceptual artist Daniel Buren. The project, which is described as a journey through archaeology and contemporary art, is animated by site specific artworks, installations, videos and performances. The outdoor exhibition acts as a preview of this year’s Romaeuropa Festival (see page 28) and was conceived in collaboration with Nomas Foundation and the city’s archaeological authorities. Palatine Hill, www.romaeuropa.net/en. LIKE A BIRD, NOT A FEATHER 20 June-10 Sept Galleria Lorcan O’Neill presents a group show featuring paintings and sculptures by several of the gallery’s stable of internationally recognised artists: Martin Creed, Giorgio Griffa, Richard Long, Anselm Kiefer and Luigi Ontani. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo dei Catinari, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

STILL SHOWING THE LASTING: L’INTERVALLO E LA DURATA 22 June-29 Jan 2017 The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna hosts an exhibition dedicated to “temporal dimensions”, specifically in relation to the concepts of intervals and duration. The show features more than

ROMA POP CITY 60-67 13 July-27 Nov The start and end dates chosen for the exhibition title comprise phenomena such as the Dolce Vita, Italy’s economic boom, social transformations, the escalation of the war in Vietnam, the cultural revolution in China, which can all be glimpsed in works where the pop tones are complemented by newdada, neo-metaphysical, pre-minimalist nuances, sometimes with a political slant. Curators Claudio Crescentini, Costantino D’Orazio, Federica Pirani have assembled 102 works by members of the School of Piazza del Popolo – Franco Angeli, Umberto Bignardi, Mario Ceroli, Tano Festa, Giosetta Fioroni, Jannis Kounellis, Sergio Lombardo, Renato Mambor, Gino Marotta, Fabio Mauri, Pino Pascali, Mimmo Rotella, Mario Schifano, Cesare Tacchi – and personalities who worked in related yet different directions, Nanni Balestrini, Gianfranco Baruchello, Claudio Cintoli, Francesco Lo Savio, Titina Maselli, Luca Maria Patella, Giuseppe Uncini. All works are of historical interest, often of high quality, and rarely seen as mostly lent by private collections and artists’ estates; they would have been better appreciated if a documentary apparatus contextualized them, and the display was less cluttered. The remarkable films by Schifano, Angeli, Patella, would have been better seen projected rather than on flat-screens. Nevertheless, the works in Roma Pop City 60-67 powerfully account for a time when Rome was still a world-class artistic centre. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, www.museomacro.org. Jacopo Benci 30 large-scale works by 15 Italian and international artists, spanning various generations and media. In addition to a younger generation of artists, the exhibition includes work by Alexander Calder, Lucio Fontana, Antony Gormley, Barbara Probst, Hiroshi Sugimoto and Tatiana Trouvé. GNAM, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www.gnam. beniculturali.it. I VOLI DELL’ARIOSTO: L’ORLANDO FURIOSO E LE ARTI 15 June-30 Oct The magnificent Villa d’Este in Tivoli hosts an exhibition dedicated to the impact on the visual arts of the romance epic Orlando Furioso by Italian

Minute Visioni exhibition at Museo Napoleonico. La benedizione Urbi et Orbi di Papa Leone XIII by Biagio Barzotti.

poet Ludovico Ariosto (1474-1533). The exhibition coincides with the 500th anniversary of the first edition of the poem whose central themes include war, love and chivalry, written in a mix of realism and fantasy. The exhibition comprises paintings, sculpture, tapestries and illustrated books, as well as parallel events relating to Ariosto’s celebrated work. For details of varying opening times see website, www.villadestetivoli.info. UGO RONDINONE: GIORNI D’ORO + NOTTI D’ARGENTO 10 June-1 Sept Swiss artist Ugo Rondinone presents two environmental installations at MACRO Testaccio and Trajan’s Markets. In both venues the New York-based artist creates fantasy settings, featuring white aluminium casts of ancient Italian olive trees and 45 clown figures, as well as hundreds of rainbows painted by Rome school children. MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani, Trajan’s Markets, Via IV Novembre 94. CAPOLAVORI DA SCOPRIRE 1 June-8 Jan With its mix of ancient sculpture and modern industrial machinery, the Centrale Montemartini is one of Rome’s most unusual but least visited museums. New items on display include several ancient Roman mosaics and an Egyptian ivory doll, as well as a bust of Agrippina the Younger – wife of Claudius and mother of Nero – on loan from the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek art museum in Copenhagen. Centrale Montemartini, Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. BENVENUTO FERRAZZI (1892-1969) 25 May-25 Sept The first retrospective in Rome of paintings by Benvenuto Ferrazzi (1892-

Roma Pop City 60-67 at MACRO. Sua Maestà la Regina by Mimmo Rotella.

1969), a lesser-known exponent of the Scuola Romana, a Rome-based expressionistic art movement which lasted from the late 1920s until the end of world war two. The 60 paintings and roughly 30 drawings on display document daily Roman life, painted in a style that veers between the macabre and mystical. Musei di Villa Torlonia, Casino dei Principi, Via Nomentana 70, tel. 060608. L’ARTE DEL SORRISO: LA CARICATURA A ROMA DAL SEICENTO AL 1849 9 June-2 Oct Palazzo Braschi displays a collection of 120 caricatures from its own collection as well as from cultural institutes across Italy. Although produced by artists of the calibre of Bernini, Carracci and Da August 2016 | Wanted in Rome


Ugo Rondinone’s Vocabulary of Solitude at MACRO Testaccio.

Vinci, this irreverent form of portraiture began to assert itself as a serious genre in its own right in the 18th century. The exhibition shows the work of three Italian artists from that era: Pier Leone Ghezzi, Carlo Marchionni and Giuseppe Barberi, providing an unusual and detailed insight into society of the time. Museo di Roma Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it. LA MISERICORDIA NELL’ARTE 31 May-27 Nov Coinciding with the Vatican’s ongoing Holy Jubilee Year of Mercy, the Capitoline Museums examines the theme of mercy through paintings, sculpture, engravings and miniatures by Italian masters. The exhibition comprises works of art from across Italy, with highlights including paintings by Guido Reni, Jacopo Bertoia and Pierre Subleyras, as well as a bas-relief by Pietro Bernini, father of Gian Lorenzo. The museum also shows reproductions of two masterpieces that were deemed too precious to leave their homes in Naples and Sansepolcro respectively: the Sette Opere di Misericordia by Caravaggio, and the Polittico della Misericordia by Piero della Francesca. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. KEN DOMON: IL MAESTRO DEL REALISMO GIAPPONESE 27 May-18 Sept One of Japan’s most renowned photog-


Wanted in Rome | August 2016

raphers of the 20th century, Ken Domon (1909-1990) is best remembered for his photojournalism as well as his atmospheric images of Buddhist temples and statuary. The Ara Pacis honours the maestro del realismo giapponese with a retrospective containing 150 photographs, in both black and white and colour, taken between the 1920s and 1970s. The exhibition features images of life in Japan before and after world war two, including the aftermath of the Hiroshima bombing. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel. 06820771, www.arapacis.it.

BANKSY: GUERRA, CAPITALISMO & LIBERTA’ 24 May-4 Sept Palazzo Cipolla hosts the largest exhibition ever dedicated to the elusive British street artist Banksy, whose identity remains unknown. On loan from private collections around the world, the 150 works on display feature the most celebrated motifs by the artist and political activist from Bristol, including his famous rat series. As the title suggests, the exhibition focuses on themes central to Banksy’s work: war, capitalism and liberty. Palazzo Cipolla, Fondazi-

L’arte del sorriso exhibition at Palazzo Braschi. Bartolomeo Pinelli in carrozza by Carl Jacob Lindström.

one Roma Museo, Via del Corso 320, tel. 066786209, www.fondazioneromamuseo.it. BRIAN ENO: LIGHT MUSIC 20 May-30 Sept The Galleria Valentina Bonomo in the Jewish ghetto presents an audiovisual installation by Brian Eno, the British multi-instrumentalist, composer, record producer, sculptor, painter and video artist. Eno, who is best known as a pioneer of electronic and ambient music as well as generative art, continues his exploration of vision, time, light and sound. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo. com. GIANNI BERENGO GARDIN: VERA FOTOGRAFIA 19 May-28 Aug The Palazzo delle Esposizioni chronicles the long career of Italian photographer Gianni Berengo Gardin who was born in the northern Italian region of Liguria in 1939 but has lived and worked in Switzerland, Rome, Paris and Venice. Acclaimed for his reportage work, Berengo Gardin is considered by many as the most important photographer in Italy in the latter part of the 20th century. Via Nazionale 194, tel. 063996750, www.palazzoesposizioni.it. MADE IN ROME 13 May-20 Nov Exhibition using archaeological artefacts and interactive technology to highlight the use of brands, logos, signatures and symbols of ownership in ancient Rome. Mercati di Traiano, Museo dei Fori Imperiali, Via Quattro Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it. CAMILLE HENROT: MONDAY 12 May-6 Nov The Fondazione Memmo presents the latest body of work by award-winning French artist Camille Henrot, along with a series of frescoes produced in situ for the foundation. Inspired by the “first and most chaotic day of the week”, the exhibition comprises large bronze sculptures, both figurative and abstract, as well as frescoes created using traditional methods mixed with found documents, paper and small objects. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it. DALL’OGGI AL DOMANI: 24 ORE NELL’ARTE CONTEMPORANEA 30 April-2 Oct Exhibition focusing on the theme of “today” and the variety of ways in which the world measures time, from calen-

Extraordinary Visions exhibition at MAXXI. Paesaggio, Sicilia by Franco Fontana.

MAXXI EXTRAORDINARY VISIONS. L’ITALIA CI GUARDA 2 June-23 Oct Exhibition featuring 150 images by 40 important national and international photographers who capture Italy’s beauty and contradictions. The exhibition’s themes relate to contemporary Italy and include migration, hospitality, social inclusion and identity. SISLEJ XHAFA: BENVENUTO 2 June-2 Oct Retrospective dedicated to the New York-based Kosovan artist Sislej Xhafa whose 30 works on display present an ironic and irreverent visual journey through the complexities of the modern world. SUPERSTUDIO. 50 YEARS OF SUPERARCHITETTURA 20 April-4 Sept Celebrating the 50th anniversary of the exhibition Superarchitettura, held in Pistoia in 1966, by the Italian architecture firm Superstudio. See website for Jacopo Benci review PIER LUIGI NERVI: LE ARCHITETTURE PER LO SPORT 5 Feb-2 Oct Plans, models, photographs and three-dimensional graphic presentations for over 60 sports’ projects span the entire career of Italian architect Pier Luigi Nervi (1891-1979), including projects such as the Vatican’s Paul VI Audience Hall. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www. fondazionemaxxi.it.

August 2016 | Wanted in Rome


La Misericordia nell’Arte at the Capitoline Museums. Gonfalone della confraternita di S. Maria del Vescovado by Niccolò di Liberatore, known as l’Alunno.

Roma Anni Trenta exhibition at the Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale. Bambina che legge by Emilio Notte.

Banksy’s Flags screenprint in Guerra, Capitalismo & Libertà at Palazzo Cipolla.

dars to clocks. The exhibition includes 70 works by modern and contemporary Italian and foreign artists such as Balla, Boetti, Breakwell, Cambellotti, Darboven, Ghirri, Kawara, Shemilt & Partridge. MACRO, Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Roma, Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.org.

of popular Czech artist Alphonse Mucha (1860-1939), best known for his Art Nouveau decorative depictions of women. On display are more than 200 of his works including paintings, posters, drawings and jewellery. Complesso del Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere, tel. 066780664.

TRIUMPHS AND LAMENTS 17 April-2 Oct MACRO presents an exhibition of works relating to the grand-scale mural along the banks of the Tiber highlighting seminal moments in Rome’s history by South African artist William Kentridge. The show comprises more than 80 preliminary works in charcoal, pastel and ink, as well as cut-outs and videos, which led to the final design of Triumphs and Laments. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, www.museomacro.org.

ROMA ANNI TRENTA 24 March-30 Oct With the subheading La Galleria d’Arte Moderna e le Quadriennali d’Arte 1931 – 1935 – 1939, this exhibition at Rome’s municipal modern art gallery is dedicated to the first editions of the Quadriennale di Roma, a series of shows to promote contemporary Italian art, from the 1930s. On display are works by Capogrossi, Casorati, De Chirico, Donghi, Mafai, Marini, Scipione and Severini, alongside lesser known paintings and sculpture. The exhibition also examines the connections to the fascist regime which sought to use art to promote its vision of a resurgent Rome. Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

ALPHONSE MUCHA 15 April-11 Sept Retrospective dedicated to the career

Domon Ken’s Esercitazioni del corpo infermiere militare, Azabu, Tokyo 1938 at the Ara Pacis.


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I MACCHIAIOLI 16 March-4 Sept The Chiostro del Bramante dedicates an exhibition to the Macchiaioli, a group of Italian painters active in Tuscany in the second half of the 19th century. In a similiar way to the Impressionists, the Macchiaioli spurned the outdated conventions of art academies, the artists painted en plein air to capture natural light, shade and colour. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, tel. 06916508451, www. chiostrodelbramante.it.

Rome Art News CHANGES AT GNAM Renovations at the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna are nearing completion following a re-evaluation of the gallery’s spaces by its new director Cristiana Collu. The Sardinian former head of MART (Museo d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea di Trento e Rovereto) has wasted no time in setting out her vision for GNAM since her arrival in the capital one year ago. Collu describes the “archaeological” changes to the museum as “rediscovering its architecture through light and space.” The renovation work, scheduled for completion on 10 October, emphasises hospitality and has the backing of culture minister Dario Franceschini. The mirrored-glass floor by Alfredo Pirri in the central Sala Colonne has been replaced with a thick GNAM director Cristiana Collu. carpet, with couches and tables. The area will be open to members of the public who can enjoy a coffee there even if they don’t tour the museum. The renovations by Spanish designer Martì Guixé include changes to the bookshop and opening up the gardens too. Since Collu’s arrival GNAM has also updated its logo and launched a fresh modern-looking website. www.lagallerianazionale.com.

The changes at GNAM include a new look for the Sala Colonne.

ROME ART WEEK Art lovers in the capital can look forward to a new cultural project this autumn with the opening of Rome Art Week. This collaborative non-profit venture, which is scheduled for 24-29 Oct, has been organised by gallery owners to promote contemporary art in Rome. The six-day festival will be divided between contemporary Roman galleries and open artists’ studios. Events are free and will be highlighted with a calendar and interactive map on the Rome Art Week website, www.romeartweek.com. REACTION ROMA CROWDFUNDER The organisers behind the social project Reaction Roma, which revolves around local residents using smartphones to document the “real Rome”, have launched a crowdfunder to assist in the creation of their ambitious audiovisual installation. The collective art project centres around amateur footage by residents-turned-filmmakers who record what excites and affects them most about life in the Italian capital. Reaction Roma is being overseen by director Pietro Jona whose team will splice together a social movie to be shown at MACRO Testaccio from 3 Nov-3 Dec. For details see Reaction Roma website, www.reactionroma.it/en.


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the Shenzhen Symphony Orchestra. Zhang Zuo, better known as Zee Zee, is one of the talented young generation of Chinese piano soloists. She is well known in the US where she studied at the Juillard School and in 2014 she was selected by the BBC for the New Young Generation Artists’ programme. She has already performed with China’s main symphony orchestras, The Hong Kong Philharmonic, the Shanghai Philharmonic and the Beijing Symphony orchestras Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it.

CLASSICAL There is hardly any classical music during August other than Concerti al Tempietto which year after year offers evening piano recitals in the magnificent setting of Teatro Marcello. The season gets off to a flying start in September with MITO SettembreMusicale in Milan and Turin.

MILAN AND TURIN MITO SETTEMBREMUSICA 2-22 Sept 80 classical music concerts in a common programme shared between Milan and Turin. This year for the first time Mito SettembreMusica has chosen a unifying theme of Fathers and Sons. This covers not only the influence of the older on the younger generation but also the more specific topic of fathers and sons in musical dynasties, such as the Bach, Mozart and Wagner families. The great loners, Schubert, Brahms and Ravel are also remembered. Some of the world’s top orchestras, choirs, conductors and soloists perform in the two cities, in the established centres of music such as La Scala and Il Regio, as well as other more unusual locations such as churches, schools, parks and squares. There are 14 premieres, a free concert every night and a special section for the young. www.mitosettembremusica.it.

DaYe Lin conducts The Shenzhen symphony orchestra and fellow Chinese musician Zhang Zuo at the piano.

model for disadvantaged young musicians and Argerich has long been a supporter of the musical formation for the young. KBS SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA 13 Sept South Korea’s symphony orchestra, conducted by Yoel Levi, plays works by Mozart and Bruckner, with piano soloist Yoel-Eum Son. The concert is to mark the opening of the Korean Cultural Institute in Italy. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via P de Coubertin 30, www. santacecilia.it. SHENZHEN SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA 15 Sept Music by Rossini, Rachmaninoff and Rimsky-Korsakov conducted by DaYe Lin, with piano soloist Zhang Zuo. Lin who won the 2012 George Solti international conductors’ competition, is one of China’s best known conductors and is the resident conductor of

CONCERTI DEL TEMPIETTO FESTIVAL MUSICALE DELLE NAZIONI NOTTI ROMANE A TEATRO MARCELLO 1 July-end Sept The Tempietto stages a piano performance each evening in the Chiostro di Campitelli of Teatro di Marcello from the beginning of July to the end of September. The programme is mainly classical repertoire but there is some jazz and a couple of choral concerts. www. tempietto.it.

POP, ROCK, JAZZ SUMMERTIME AT CASA DEL JAZZ 30 June-15 Aug The summer jazz festival at Rome’s Casa del Jazz offers concerts by Italian and international acts including Arve Henriksen and Jan Bang Duo (8 Aug) and Swing Night with Giorgio Cuscito & The Swing Valley Band, DJ Ale G, The Swing Circus Crew, Piji (15 Aug). For full programme see website. Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it.

ROME ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA MARTHA ARGERICH 7 Sept Martha Argerich plays music by Ravel with the Youth Orchestra of Bahia conducted by its founder Ricardo Castro. The Bahia orchestra is inspired by the Venezuelan El Sistema educational

Arve Henriksen performs with the Jan Bang Duo at the Casa del Jazz on 8 August.

August 2016 | Wanted in Rome


Dobet Gnahoré presents La voce dell’Africa at the Sere d’Arte festival at Castel S. Angelo on 25 August.

festivals ¡FIESTA! 1 June-30 Sept The festival brings Latin American music, dance, food and culture to Rome each year. Latin American dancers and singers provide over 100 hours of live music from Latin America’s diverse ethnic cultures. Highlights this month include a show by Gente di Zona on 6 August. Located at Parco Rosati in the city’s EUR district, the festival acts as a bridge between Italians and the 100,000 Latin Americans living in the Lazio region. Via delle Tre Fontane 24, tel. 0687463296, www.fiesta.it. GAY VILLAGE 1 June-12 Sept The 15th edition of Gay Village features live dj sets, cabaret, film, readings, plenty of disco music and special guests. Once again Gay Village is under the artistic direction of transgender activist Vladimir Luxuria, and organisers have described the three-month festival as a “free state, with borders but without limits.” See website for programme. Parco del Ninfeo, Via delle Tre Fontane, EUR, tel. 065809098, www.gayvillage.it. MONDOFITNESS 8 June-11 Sept This annual festival is billed as the biggest sporting event of the Roman summer and always attracts large crowds of sporty types and health enthusiasts. The festival’s open air gym covers 30,000 sqm, is divided into 20 sections and provides classes in 40 sporting activities from aerobics to yoga, as well as martial arts, boxing, rowing, dance and


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beach sports. Viale Tor di Quinto 55/57, tel. 0633225155, www.mondofitnessroma.com. IL GIARDINO RITROVATO 20 June-18 Sept Important new cultural festival offering art, music, dance, theatre and lectures in the setting of the recently-restored gardens of Palazzo Venezia, with seating for 300 spectators. Highlights include the Balletto di Roma with Contemporary Tango (8 Aug); La ragazza con la valigia by actress Paolo Minaccioni who draws on her stage and television characters (23 Aug); a theatrical performance of Schnitzler’s Il Ritorno di Casanova by the Compagnia LombardiTiezzi (30 Aug); and the opening of the 11th edition of the cutting edge Short Theatre with LUS, starring Ermanna Montanari and Luigi Ceccarelli (7 Sept). The festival also includes Conversazioni d’arte, a programme of talks given by art experts who explore a range of topics including the legacy of artists such as Giotto, Raphael and Bernini. Events begin at 21.00, tickets can be purchased at the Palazzo Venezia museum as well as online. For details see website, www.giardinoritrovato.it. Palazzo Venezia, Via del Plebiscito 118. ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 24 June-3 Dec The multidisciplinary Romaeuropa Festival returns with an action-packed programme of contemporary dance, theatre, circus, art, technology and music, under the title Portati Altrove. This year’s edition comprises 50 events,

of which 34 are Italian premieres, with over 145 days of performances, including the summer anteprima section on the Palatine Hill. The Patrimonio e Creazione preview includes the exhibition Par Tibi, Rome, Nihil exhibition, with work by 36 artists, at various outdoor venues around the Palatine (24 June18 Sept). Romaeuropa director Fabrizio Grifasi said this year’s programme – as the title’s altrove or “elsewhere” suggests – alludes to the organisers’ responsibility in “choosing the boundaries and characteristics” of the festival. Highlights include barbarians, a dance production and Italian premiere by Israeli choreographer Hofesh Shechter, at Teatro Argentina (21-24 Sept); Forced Entertainment, featuring 36 Shakespearean works condensed into 50-minute performances over eight days at MACRO Testaccio (8-16 Oct); Rome-based contemporary American composer Alvin Curran at the laghetto at Villa Borghese (25 Sept) and at the French Academy, Villa Medici (25 Nov); and The Dog Days Are Over, described as a “jumped, minimal and political work for eight performers”, by Belgian choreographer Jan Martens at Teatro Vascello (2 Nov). Also to look forward to is the seventh edition of the festival’s futuristic section Digital Life, dedicated to the interaction between visual arts and technology, including Zee, an immerisve audiovisual project featuring artificial fog, stroboscopes, pulse lights and surround sound, by Chicago-based Austrian artist Kurt Hentschläger; and 3D Water Matrix, a kinetic water installation by Shiro Takatani and Christian Partos. For booking, events and venue information tel. 0645553050 or see festival website, www.romaeuropa.net. SERE D’ARTE AT CASTEL S. ANGELO 24 June-25 Sept Summer nights of classical music concerts, theatrical productions and art lectures in the spaces of Rome’s Castel S. Angelo. Highlights in August include trombone player Mauro Ottolini accompanied by accordian player Vincenzo Titti and violinist Daniele Richiedei (11 Aug), singer Peppe Barra and friends (18 Aug), and Dobet Gnahoré – La voce dell’Africa (25 Aug). Festival performances begin at 21.00, for programme and ticket information see website, www.seredarte.it. VITTORIANO APPUNTAMENTI D’ARTE E MUSICA 1 July-30 Sept A series of free events including jazz concerts and conversations on contemporary art on the Vittoriano rooftop terrace with its backdrop of panoramic views. Upcoming jazz concerts include

performances by trombonist Gianluca Petrella (5 Aug), trumpeter Flavio Boltro (26 Aug) and singer Marina Rei (2 Sept). The conversation series includes the participation of leading art critics and contemporary artists working in Rome, including Hera Büyüktaşçiyan and Silvia Pedone (14 Sept), Matteo Montani and Gabriele Simongini (21 Sept), Pietro Ruffo and Paolo Fabbri (27 Sept), and Guido Comis and Zimoun (29 Sept). The concerts are at 21.00 and the talks at 20.00. For details see website, www.polomusealelazio.beniculturali.it.

Italian trumpeteer Flavio Boltro performs for the Vittoriano festival.

GASOMETRO 8 July-17 Sept This multi-disciplinary cultural event returns to the shadow of the Gasometro in the Ostiense-Garbatella district. The summer festival features live music, dj sets, contemporary art, dance, theatre, literature, food and outdoor games. For full programme see Gasometro Facebook page. Via di Riva Tevere Ostiense, off Via del Porto Fluviale.

dance ROME BALLETTO DI ROMA CONTEMPORARY TANGO 8 Aug This work, choreographed by Milena Zullo and with the participation of Kledi Kadiu, breaks out of tango’s historical framework and its typical dance techniques and highlights instead the social nature of the dance within a contemporary international framework. Zullo who founded Aterballetto 1989 and then later the Balletto di Roma, is one of Italy’s internationally recognised choreographers. Her other works are Don Quixote and Futura, ballando con Lucio. Kadiu is an Albania-born dancer and popular Italian television personality. The performance is in the newly-restored Gardens of Piazza Venezia. See also Il Giardino Ritrovato under Festivals. BOLERO 21-22 Sept Bolero marks the 30 anniversary of the founding of the first White Cloud Studio in New York City, which is the centre of Gyrotonics invented by Juliu Horvath, dancer and choreographer. This work is described as an introspective journey to celebrate the creativity of the universe. Horvath was a dancer with the Romanian State Ballet before he defected, spending six months in a refugee camp in Italy. He was then

granted asylum in the US where he danced with the New York City Opera and the Houston Ballet before he was injured. It was then that he devised the Gyrokinesis Method, once called yoga for dancers, and the first White Cloud Studio in New York. Some of the equipment and Gyrotonic exercises invented by Horvath, which combine techniques from swimming, yoga, dance, tai chi and gymnastics, are used in the performance. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it. SWAN LAKE 30 Sept-5 Nov A pre-season performance of Swan Lake at the Teatro dell’Opera with the soloists and ballet school of the Rome

opera house. This version was choreographed by Christopher Wheeldon in 2004 for the Philadelphia Ballet. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamo Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it. ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL BARBARIANS BY HOFESH SHECHTER 21-24 Sept The trilogy barbarians, with its themes of intimacy, passion and the banality of love, opens the festival. Shechter mixes classical and electronic music, as well as popular and contemporary dance in three works, the barbarians in love (for five dancers in white) tHE bAD (for six dancers in gold) and two completely dif-

tHE bAD, the second part of barbarians by Hofesh Shecher.

August 2016 | Wanted in Rome


Jan Fabre’s Attends, Attends, Attends …..(pour mon Pere) opens the Oriente Occidente festival in Rovereto.

is Ferruccio Busoni’s version of Turandot, first performed in Zurich in 1917, well before Puccini’s opera, which was still unfinished at the time of his death and not performed until 1926 at La Scala, conducted by Toscanini. The Busoni version, written in record time to meet the deadline given him by the Zurich opera house, is in the style of a lively 18th-century Italian opera and in a much lighter vein that the Puccini version. It will be performed on 13 Aug. Torre del Lago, Lucca, www.puccinifestival.it.


ferent angles of the same fucking thing, a duet with the company’s dancers Bruno Guillore and Winifred BurnetSmith. Shechter’s choreographies are constantly testing the boundaries of contemporary dance. He is quoted in The Guardian newspaper as saying: “Contemporary dance is a sort of underground club and when people encounter it and discover it, they feel like they own something very special and kind of crazy.” Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, www.romaeuropa.net. PASSIONE BY EMIO GRECO AND PIETER SCHOLTEN 30 Sept-1 Oct Ballet National de Marseille performs this work by Italian choreographer Emio Greco and theatre director Pietre Scholten. The performance is to Bach’s St Matthew’s Passion readapted by Franck Krawczyk. Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, www.romaeuropa.net.

Attends....(pour mon Père) with dancer Cedric Charron. British, French, Israeli, Italian, South African, Spanish, and US choreographies follow in quick succession during the action-packed two weeks in this northern Italian town. Events take place in locations around Rovereto. For the full porgramme see www.orienteoccidente.it.



PUCCINI FESTIVAL 15 July-13 Aug Given that this is a Puccini festival in the villa where the composer once lived and worked Tosca (6 and 11 Aug), La Boheme (5 and 6 Aug) Turandot (12 Aug) and Madame Butterfly (10 Aug) are obvious choices. The surprise this year

MACERATA OPERA FESTIVAL LE MARCHE 22 July-14 Aug The Mediterranean is the theme of this year’s festival which is staging only three operas, Verdi’s Otello (5 and 13 Aug), Rossini’s Norma (7 Aug) and Verdi’s Il Trovatore (6 and 12 Aug). This opera festival, which dates back to the 1920s, came into its own again in the 1980s. It has to fill the 3,000-seater Sferisterio so plays safe with the repertoire but has increased and widened its appeal to new spectators. Always short of funds it has however improved the quality of its productions (now a mix of contemporary and traditional) and under the artistic direction of Francesco Micheli it is also turning into a testing ground for young and talented directors. Macerato, www.sferisterio.it. See also Opera Notes.

PARMA VERDI OPERA FESTIVAL 1-30 Oct The annual festival for lovers of Verdi opera. This year the festival starts with a new production of Verdi’s Don Carlo (1, 5, 8, 11 Oct) conducted by Daniel Oren

ROVERETO ORIENTE OCCIDENTE FESTIVAL 30 Aug-11 Sept The best of international contemporary dance and more. The 2016 title of this contemporary dance festival is Corpi e Confini and the festival continues to explore the connection between dance and the every day, between dance and global social phenomena, between dance and the eternal. As well as workshops and performances there is also a section dedicated to disabililty and art entitled Moving Beyond Inclusion (9-11 Sept). Multidisciplinary artist Jan Fabre opens the festival with Attends, Attends,


Wanted in Rome | August 2016

Dido and Aeneas by Sasha Waltz at the Teatro dell’Opera for Romaeuropa Festival.

and directed by Cesare Lievi. Teatro Regio di Parma, www.teatroregioparma. org.

PESARO ROSSINI OPERA FESTIVAL 8-20 Aug The works this year at the Rossini Opera Festival in Pesaro are La Donna del Lago (8, 11, 14, 17 Aug), Il Turco in Italia (9, 12, 15 and 18 Aug) and Ciro in Babilonia (10, 13 ,16, 20 Aug). There is also an interesting youth festival. Most events take place in Teatro Rossini or the Auditorium Pedrotti, www.rossinioperafestival.it. See more details in Opera Notes.

ROME BATHS OF CARCALLA 22 June-10 Aug The three operas in the Teatro dell’ Opera di Roma summer season at the Baths of Caracalla are Nabucco (9 Aug), Il Barbiere di Siviglia (10 Aug) and Madame Butterfly (6, 8 Aug). Nabucco is a new production by the Teatro dell’Opera, conducted by John Fiore and directed by Federico Grazzini. Grazzini is young, talented and a graduate of Milan’s prestigious Piccolo Theatre. He won considerable praise for his lively modern interpretation of Rigoletto at the Marcerata opera festival last year. Baths of Caracalla, wwwoperaroma.it. DIDO AND AENEAS 13-18 Sept This is a Sasha Waltz production in cooperation with Berlin’s Unter den Linden, the Gran Teatre of Luxembourg and National Opera of Montpellier. The work is inspired by Henry Purcell’s baroque opera but it is best to forget the original and take this on its own merits, with its confusion of characters, its mix of dance and opera, baroque and contemporary. Waltz has called the work a choreographic opera and it was well received when it premiered in 2005. It is being performed in Rome as part of the Romaeuropa Festival. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, www.operaroma.it.

VERONA ARENA FESTIVAL 24 June-28 Aug There are four operas still on this year’s programme; Bizet’s Carmen (until 27 Aug), Aida by Verdi (until 28 Aug), Turandot by Puccini (until 25 Aug) and Il Trovatore by Verdi (6-26 Aug). Three of the operas are classic Zeffirelli re-runs (Carmen, Turandot and Il Trovatore). Arena di Verona, www.arena.it.


Wanted in Rome | August 2016

OPERA NOTES Il Rossini Opera Festival che ogni estate si svolge a pesaro, città natale del compositore, inaugura la 37a edizione con La donna del lago (8-17 agosto). Accolta con freddezza alla prima del 24 ottobre 1819 al Teatro S. Carlo di Napoli, ottenne nel corso delle recite successive (dodici in tutto) un successo sempre più crescente ed entusiastico. Tra gli estimatori ci fu Giacomo Leopardi, che così scrisse al fratello Carlo: «È una cosa stupenda e potrei pianger ancor io, se il dono delle lacrime non mi fosse stato sospeso». Gli interpreti principali della nuova produzione sono: Salome Jicia, Varduhi Abrahamyan, Juan Diego Flórez e Michael Spyres. Dirige Michele Mariotti e allestisce lo spettacolo Damiano Michieletto La stessa sorte de La donna del lago era toccata anche a Il turco in Italia: la seconda opera in cartellone al ROF (9-18 agosto). Andata in scena alla Scala di Milano il 14 agosto 1814 fu considerata un rifacimento a ruoli invertiti della precedente Italiana in Algeri, e per questo fu fischiata. In realtà Il turco in Italia è un’opera che merita maggior considerazione: è originale, ardita e assai moderna e innovativa rispetto all’epoca. Al ROF si presenta come una nuova produzione che vede sul podio Speranza Scappucci e la regia e le scene curate da Davide Livermore, mentre i costumi sono di Gianluca Falaschi. Erwin Schrott e Olga Peretyatko formano la coppia dei protagonisti, attorniata da Cecilia Molinari, Nicola Alaimo, René Barbera e Pietro Spagnoli. Ciro in babilonia (10-20 agosto) è invece la riproposizione di uno spettacolo già visto al Rossini Opera Festival nel 2012 realizzato sempre dal duo livermore-falaschi. Della passata edizione resta il contralto “rossiniano” doc Ewa Podles che interpreta Ciro, mentre “nuovi” sono Pretty Yende (Amira, la donna amata dal protagonista) e Antonino Siragusa (Baldassare, il rivale in amore di Ciro). È cambiato anche il direttore d’orchestra che adesso è Jader Bignamini, al suo debutto al ROF. Ciro in Babilonia è la prima opera seria di Rossini. Ebbe la sua prima il 14 marzo 1812 al Teatro Comunale di Ferrara. Ottenne un buono successo, ma il pesarese la considerò sempre un “fiasco” al contrario di Stendhal che la definì «opera piena di grazia». È trascorso un ventennio da quando Juan Diego Flórez debuttò al ROF con Matilde di Shabran: era il 13 agosto 1996 e aveva soltanto 23 anni. L’avvenimento sarà ricordato con un “concerto di canto” (19 agosto) che vede il tenore peruviano esibirsi con i suoi cavalli di battaglia e l’amichevole partecipazione dei colleghi che quest’anno cantano a Pesaro. Altro concerto da non perdere è dello statunitense Michael Spyres, dedicato a Adolphe Nourrit (18 agosto): il grandissimo tenore che Rossini volle nelle opere del periodo francese, tra le quali spicca il celebre Guillaume Tell. In programma musiche del cigno di Pesaro ma anche di Cherubini, Auber, Halévy, Pacini, Donizetti e Niedermayer, i musicisti che ugualmente scrissero grandi ruoli per Adolphe Nourrit. Paolo Di Nicola

cinema EFFETTO NOTTE A VILLA BORGHESE 30 June-7 Sept The summer festival at Rome’s Casa del Cinema in Villa Borghese is both outdoors and free, and the Effetto Notte programme comprises 70 screenings. The films are a mix of Italian and international, and genres include fantasy, Shakespeare, tributes to Truffaut and Hitchcock and Italian classics. In the case of rain the films will be shown in the cinema’s Sala Deluxe. For programme details see website. Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1 (Villa Borghese), tel. 0642016224, www.casadelcinema.it. ISOLA DEL CINEMA 9 June-4 Sept This quality cinema event lights up the

Isola Tiberina in the middle of the river Tiber each evening over the summer. Under the title Hollywood sul Tevere, the 2016 edition of this multi-faceted festival includes 90 screenings, encounters and discussions with important figures from the world of film, while its programme comprises films by emerging directors, independent cinema, documentaries, and big international productions. Films in the Isola Mondo section and some documentaries in the Fuoco sul Reale category are screened in their original language versions. For details tel. 0658333113 or see website, www.isoladelcinema.com. SUMMER KINO 9 June-31 Aug The arthouse cinema Kino presents a three-month festival of open-air cinema and parallel cultural events including live music, readings and

The Effetto Notte festival takes place outdoors at the Casa del Cinema in Villa Borghese.

stand-up comedy, at the Ex Dogana building (former custom house) in the S. Lorenzo district. All films are screened in their original language version, with Italian subtitles. In addition to its cinema programme the festival offers a cocktail bar and six eateries, along with stands selling vintage clothing and “indie” books. In 2010 the former Grauco film club in Pigneto was transformed into Cinema Kino, which shows Italian and international films throughout the year. For details of summer festival see website, www.ilkino.it.

SNEAK PREVIEW OF ROME FILM FEST Academy Award winners Tom Hanks and Meryl Streep will be among the top Hollywood stars to grace the red carpet at the 11th Rome Film Fest, scheduled from 13-23 October. Hanks will receive a Lifetime Achievement Award, together with a retrospective screening of his films, while Streep will speak about the Italian actresses who influenced her, in particular Silvana Mangano. The film festival will also welcome Pulitzer Prize-winning playwright and movie director David Mamet, New York writer and playwright Don DeLillo, and Polish-American “starchitect” Daniel Libeskind. This year’s festival will be one day longer than usual, with additional events planned outside its base at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. The full programme is expected in September, for details see website www.romacinemafest.it.

theatre SHAKESPEARE AT GLOBE THEATRE 23 June-9 Oct This year’s Shakespearean programme at Rome’s Silvano Toti Globe Theatre is much expanded and includes numerous novelties, including an Englishlanguage performance, on the 400th anniversary of the death of The Bard. The festival is once again under the direction of popular Roman actor Gigi Proietti who, for the first time in his 13year tenure as artistic director, takes to the stage to perform a Shakespeare tribute, based on the monologue Edmund Kean by Raymund FitzSimons. The programme continues with A Midsummer Night’s Dream directed by Riccardo Cavallo (10-21 Aug); and A Winter’s Tale directed by Elena Sbardella (26 Aug-11 Sept). Other productions include Love Sonnets which features a mix of Shakespeare’s most lyrical verses accompanied by music from modern-day musicians such as Marvin Gaye, Amy Winehouse, Leonard Cohen and Alanis Morissette (29 Aug, 5, 19, 26 Sept). Proietti also directs a group of young actors in a fresh in-

A Midsummer Night’s Dream at the Globe Theatre from 10-21 August.

terpretation of Romeo and Juliet (16 Sept-2 Oct). The festival ends on a high-note for Rome’s English speakers: the London-based Bedouin Shakespeare Company, which returns for the second year, presents an Englishlanguage production of The Tempest directed by Chris Pickles (5-9 Oct). Rome’s Globe Theatre, located in the

heart of Villa Borghese, is a full-scale timber reproduction of Shakespeare’s Globe, copied from the original oak and thatch designs, and almost identical to the one that stands on London’s South Bank. All shows are in Italian with the exception of the final production. For details see website, www.globetheatreroma.com. August 2016 | Wanted in Rome


academies CASA DI GOETHE 8 June-11 Sept Organised in collaboration with the Italian embassy to Germany and the Italian Cultural Institute in Berlin, the exhibition Con Goethe in Italia marks the 200th anniversary since the publication of Italian Journey, Goethe’s report on his travels to Italy from 1786–1788. The exhibition features works inspired by Goethe’s writings by three artists: Michaela Maria Langenstein from Munich, and Elisa Montessori and Claudia Peill, both from Genoa. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it. FRENCH ACADEMY OF ROME 1 July-14 Aug The French Academy holds the seventh edition of the Theatre of Exhibitions, a multidisciplinary event uniting the projects of its artists and scholars in residence, allowing the public to interact with the academy’s fellows. The participants in this year’s project include stage director Laurent Bazin, designer Johan Brunel, philosopher Julie Cheminaud, writer Oscar Coop-Phane, composers Fabrice Denys-Fantazio and Jackson Fourgeaud-Jackson, film historian Anne-Violaine Houcke, visual artists Frédéric Malek & Mathieu Kendrick, Lek & Sowat, Adina Mocanu & Alexandra Sand; screenwriter and director Philippe Petit. After the exhibition in Rome, a selection of artwork will be presented in Paris as part of the Viva Villa festival. Villa Medici, Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it.

Con Goethe in Italia exhibition at Casa di Goethe. Untitled by Michaela Maria Langenstein.


Wanted in Rome | August 2016

books Review of Katherine Wilson’s memoir Only in Naples For many ex-pats in Rome, the idea of marrying a gorgeous Italian and living in Italy forever seems like a dream. But the thought of Italian in-laws can be a nightmare. American ex-pat Katherine Wilson has been living in Rome for over a decade and has a lot of experience with Italian in-laws. In her book Only in Naples she discusses not only the unconventional way she met and fell in love with her husband after coming to work at the US Consulate in Naples, but how she learned to immerse herself into his family. The comedy she describes in the cultural differences is balanced by her acceptance and adaptability. On the first night she met her future in-laws, which also happened to be the first date with her future husband, pizza was a serious matter. The way she cut her pizza was a performance to be observed by the entire family. From that moment, she became invested in learning the ropes. Her story is humbling as she describes graduating Magna Cum Laude from Princeton University and arriving in Italy to be bossed around by this new family. She soon learned that she was in a place where cultural immersion was worth more than credentials. Despite her formal education she had a lot to learn and was flattered that this family was there to guide her. She describes being an over-achieving Ivy League student only to fall in love with the land of getting by. She also relates her personal experience in theatre and recent stardom in Giuseppe Tornatore’s film The Best Offer. While the story does comprise the cliché of falling in love and staying in Italy, it is unique because it is a simultaneous love story about her husband and her motherin-law. With a linguistic and cultural barrier she gets embraced, a little too tightly, and embraces back. The book offers a humourous lesson on relationships, humility, cultural immersion, a good guide to Naples….and some useful recipes too. Theresa Potenza Only in Naples is available on Amazon.com. Follow the author on Facebook at KatherineWilsonWriter.

rome’s cultural

academies AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME The American Academy in Rome works to promote research and independent study in the arts and humanities. Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 065810788, www. aarome.org.

French Academy

AUSTRIAN CULTURAL FORUM The Austrian Cultural Forum hosts events dedicated to the history and culture of Austria. Viale Bruno Buozzi 113, tel. 063608371, www.austriacult.roma.it. BELGIAN ACADEMY The Belgian Academy facilitates scientific and cultural relations between Italy and Belgium by sponsoring researchers and artists in Italy. Via Omero 8, tel. 063201889, www.academiabelgica.it. BRITISH COUNCIL The British Council promotes the English language and appreciation in Italy of the UK’s creative ideas and achievements. Via di S. Sebastianello 16, tel. 06478141, www.britishcouncil.it. BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME The British School at Rome brings scholars, artists, researchers and architects from Britain to create a cultural exchange between Britain and Italy. Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk. CASA DI GOETHE Rome’s museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe offers exhibitions and cultural events throughout the year. Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. CENTRE CULTUREL SAINT-LOUIS DE FRANCE The centre offers cultural events such as film screenings, lectures, debates and theatre. Largo Toniolo 20, tel. 066802629, www.ifcsl.com. British School at Rome


Wanted in Rome | August 2016

CENTRO CULTURAL BRASIL-ITALIA The centre offers courses of Brazilian Portuguese and samba and hosts meetings with writers and filmmakers, conferences on Brazilian literature and screenings of Brazilian movies. Piazza Navona 18, tel. 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov. br/it/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml.

FINNISH ACADEMY The Finnish Academy provides a base for Finnish students and researchers working in Italy, as well as promoting Finland’s work in the arts and humanities. Villa Lante, Passeggiata del Gianicolo 10, tel. 0668801674, www. irfrome.org.

DANISH ACADEMY The Danish Academy is an institution that offers support to Danish artists in Rome. Via Omero 18, tel. 063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk.

FRENCH ACADEMY The French Academy at Villa Medici hosts artists from France and provides exhibitions and festivals throughout the year. Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it.

DUTCH INSTITUTE The Dutch Institute offers courses for students and researchers and serves as a bridge between Dutch universities and Italy. Via Omero 10, tel. 063269621, www.knir.it. EGYPTIAN ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African culture and art to Italy. Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896, www.accademiaegitto.org. American Academy

GERMAN ACADEMY The German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians and architects the opportunity to study in Rome. Largo di Villa Massimo 1, tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kulturinternational.de. GERMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE This institute conducts research into the history of Germany and Italy, in

Danish Academy

particular the relations between both countries. Via Aurelia Antica 391, tel. 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it. GOETHE INSTITUT The Goethe Institut promotes education in Italy about German culture, language and history. Via Savoia 15, tel. 068440051, www.goethe.de. HUNGARIAN ACADEMY The Academy of Hungary in Rome hosts concerts, literary events and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars. Via Giulia 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu. INSTITUTO CERVANTES Instituto Cervantes is a cultural institution created to promote the teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani 16, tel. 068551949, www.cervantes.es. ITALIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA The Italo-Latin American Institute facilitates research into the cultural, scientific, economic and social aspects of Italy and Latin American countries. Piazza Benedetto Cairoli 3, tel. 06684921, www.iila.org. JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE The Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural events and also offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www.jfroma.it. KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.it.

NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE The Norwegian Institute in Rome offers undergraduate and graduate courses in art history, ancient studies and Italian. Viale 30 Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007, www. hf.uio.no. POLISH CULTURAL INSTITUTE Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Via Vittoria Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723, www.istitutopolacco.it.

tre dedicated to scientific research in art and archaeology. Via Omero 14, tel. 063201596, www.isvroma.it. SWISS INSTITUTE The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it. Belgian Academy

POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE The Polish Academy is a research centre for the humanities and a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Vicolo Doria 2, tel. 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it. ROMANIAN ACADEMY The Romanian Academy hosts events and promotes cultural relations between Romania and Italy. Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1, tel. 063201594, www.accadromania.it. RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF CULTURE AND LANGUAGE The Russian Institute provides classes in Russian language and culture. Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137.

Romanian Academy

SPANISH ACADEMY The Spanish Academy hosts artists in many fields of study and holds events that provide a cultural bridge between Spain and Italy. Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer.it. SWEDISH INSTITUTE OF CLASSICAL STUDIES The Swedish Institute is a research cenAugust 2016 | Wanted in Rome


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COLUMNs Accommodation vacant in town 65 SQM VERY CLOSE TO MUSIC PARK. Semi furnished apartment located in a nice and residential area close-by Ponte della Musica, you can reach metro A in 15 minutes via tram The apartment is composed of two rooms, large kitchen and bathroom and it is on the first floor. lui.vax@ gmail.com. ARTIST STUDIO AND ACCOMODATION IN S. LORENZO FROM AUGUST. Beautiful sunny small studio in the heart of Rome facing Aurelian walls. Great natural light, tables, stools, ladder, speakers, an easel, shelves, lamps/spotlights, AC, WiFi, bathroom, printer, high ceilings. Great as studio or exhibition space. Hardware stores, markets, bars/restaurants nearby, 10 min. walk to Termini. Near-by apartment available, minimum 2 week stay. figatta@hotmail.com. FLAT FOR RENT LA SAPIENZA/ POLICLINICO METRO B. 100 sqm living room, 3 rooms, storage room, 2 toilets, furnished kitchen, balconies, €1.800/month + condominio €80. Fabrizio tel. 340 / 3901988. GIANICOLO ROOM. Nice quiet room in a period building apartment inside a green private park, 10 min by foot to Trastevere, 2 min by foot to Gianicolo view. The apartment is still occupied by 2 other girls (workers/

Free Classified Advertisements All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted via our website at www.wantedinrome.com. Space permitting free classified advertisements placed on our website will be downloaded and published in the magazine, but only if they include contact details. Jobs Wanted classifieds will no longer be accepted in our office but must be placed directly on our website www.wantedinrome.com

students) so they prefer another girl. Is well connected (Quattro Venti station) and obviously wi-fi, electricity and gas are included. €500 per month. Contact giulio_piccinini@ hotmail.com. MANZONI AREA. Furnished studios:1) For single person €480 monthly minimum 3 months. 2) Garden flat €800 monthly minimum 9 months. Email: dellascala4@gmail.com.

American University. Fully furnished, the house is an old one located in a charming area and it’s also perfectly served by train and buses (perfect for FAO workers). The apartment has a kitchen and 3 bedroom, 2 are occupied by two girls (Sweden, Usa) and they prefer to share their apartment with another girl. For any further info contact me please. Giulio, giulio_piccinini@hotmail.com.

MONTI BOSCHETTO. Cozy apartment, bedroom with double-bed, bathroom with shower, comfortable sitting room with sofa bed, livable kitchen, A/C, TV, Wi-Fi. email: monti35@ fastwebnet.it. NICE ROOM GIANICOLOMONTEVERDE. Goodmorning, it’s available a nice old fashioned room, located 500m from Gianicolo and 500 from Villa Pamphili and 400 from the

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August 2016 | Wanted in Rome


PANORAMIC. Cristoforo Colombo, furnished, living-dining room, two bedrooms, guest room, two bathrooms, eat-in kitchen, balconies. Tel. 328 / 4547592, saab5621@gmail.com. SPACIOUS SUNNY APARTMENT TRASTEVERE. Three bedrooms 4th floor w/elevator 100sqm/1000sqf S. Cosimato area available immediately. Contact fabriziolaurenti@ me.com. TRASTEVERE. Nicely furnished, 3rd floor, sunny, entrance, living room, 1bedroom, live-in kitchen, 1 bathroom with shower, independent heating, air conditioning, internet, with all appliances, available monthly €1.300 plus expenses, tel. 333 / 2843762, delpinto@hotmail.it. TRASTEVERE. Lungara. Furnished ground floor apartment, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 living areas, large kitchen. Dishwasher, washing machine. €1.500. Contact Ilaria, ilaria@ diananet.it. VIGNA CLARA. NEAR PONTE MILVIO. Near Ponte Milvio. Delicious mini apartment, about 25sqm, completely furnished, bedroom-kitchen, bathroom,€550 monthly, all included. Tel. 346 / 7882036.

Jobs vacant ENGLISH BUSINESS TRAINER. The Language Grid seeks motivated EMT trainers to work in a business environment. Offering part-time and full-time positions on long term contracts with paid holiday, bonuses & benefits. Opportunity for career development. Apply via email: info@thelanguagegrid. com with CV, photo & cover letter. info@thelanguagegrid.com. ASSISTANT WANTED. MUST BE fluent in English - Mother Tongue preferred. MUST HAVE lived in Rome for at least 2


Wanted in Rome | August 2016

years and speak Italian relatively well. MUST BE able to follow instructions. The job will involve the following tasks: Dealing with enquiries - email or phone. Showing apartments. Checking tenants in and out. Social Media posting. Creating Apartment descriptions. Creating Apartment instructions and tips for local area. Writing articles for blog etc. Apartment checks. If you think you qualify, for more information and how to apply please email admin@cribrentalsrome.info and put Assistant Job in the Subject line. BUSINESS ENGLISH TEACHERS. WorkinEnglish srl are seeking highly motivated qualified English teachers for in-company courses in Rome, Pomezia and Latina. Benefits include: a competitive salary, contract, a supportive and professional environment, teacher resource centre, job stability and career progression. Applicants must be native speakers, TEFL qualified, EU citizens and living in the area. Send CV (with photo) and cover letter to info@workinenglish.it. CASTING CALL FOR ENGLISH SPEAKING ACTOR AND ACTRESSES. Casting call for English speaking actor and actresses between 14 and 60 years old, (also american accent). We are searching you for lead roles in important projects, films, tv series, between Italy, England and America, please call 065826540 or 0658203082 or send photo and cv to studioemme2011@ gmail.com.

ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE TEACHER. Bilingual kindergarten is seeking an auxiliary teacher part-time. info@ universitadeibambini.it. ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE TEACHERS. ENGLISH MOTHER TONGUE teachers living in Rome required for a school in Anagnina area, CV to info@ englishchool.it. EXPERIENCED EMT NURSERY SCHOOL TEACHERS. Our NEW third branch is REGGIO APPROACH in style and philosophy. Are you motivated and driven? Do you believe in team work? We are looking to train commited, adaptive, EMT nursery school teachers who are enthusiastic about learning how to implement the Reggio method. We are a small professional team, strong believers in the competence of children and ready to embark on a new school year full of discovery.didactic.reggio@gmail.com. LOOKING FOR OUTGOING PEOPLE. Looking for outgoing people to work

in English to give info to tourists. Part time job. paulsam66@libero.it or tel. 347 / 77791856. Please call after 18.00. MOTHER-TONGUE EARLY YEARS TEACHER. Mother-tongue Early Years teacher required in international school. Qualifications and experience are necessary. info@casaghianda.it. MOTHER-TONGUE ENGLISH TEACHERS. Established English School currently seeking full and part-time qualified English mother-tongue teachers for young children and adult courses from Sept 2016. Full training provided. Please send your CV to job@angloamerican.it. SECRETARY. School seeking mothertongue English secretary/receptionist with immediate availability for basic office duties. info@littlestardaycare.it. SEEKING ENGLISH ACTORS AND ACTRESSES. Casting call for English speaking actors and actresses between 6 and 17 years (also new talent) and professional actors and actresses between 18 and 60 years old, (also American accent). We are searching you for lead roles in important projects, films, tv series, between Italy, England and America, please call 065826540 or 0658203082 or send photo and cv to studioemme2011@ gmail.com. SEEKING YOUNG WORKERS - CARGO INDUSTRY. World Cargo, a leader in the international freight forwarding and logistics industry, is seeking young interns to possibly join our workforce. Good English and Italian required together with basic use of Office Suite. Openings in Rome and Milan. If interested please email: lavoro@worldcargo.it. For info see: https://www.facebook.com/pages/ World-Cargo/114364505303941. THE BRITISH SCHOOL URGENTLY REQUIRES TEACHERS. British School

Fleming requires experienced, qualified and native English teachers for on-site courses with children and adults as well as in-company contracts. In-house training available. Must already be based in Rome. In the first instance, please send your cv and covering letter to fleming@ britishschoolroma.it and we’ll get back to you. THE KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE IS SEEKING. The Keats-Shelley House is seeking a part-time guide/ museum assistant who can work from September 2016. Essential requisites: English as native language, good knowledge of Italian, ability to work on Thursdays. A genuine interest in English literature, the ability to work in a shop and IT skills will be considered a plus. Interviews will be held during August. Please send CV + Cover Letter (which will clarify the above-mentioned requisites) by 5 August to: info@keatsshelley-house.org THE US EMBASSY TO THE HOLY SEE IS SEEKING. Housekeeper for 30 hours per week Monday to Friday. Salary includes INPS payments and 13 month bonus. Will be responsible for cleaning of the complete apartment, laundry and helping to serve when required for lunches.S hould be flexible. Please contact Evelyn Wade, 0646743434.

poetry DAMNED ILLUSION. The way you kiss is like the one of a wife hardly left by her husband which goes to work. The difference is that you haven’t nor husband nor work. But kiss well.sernicolimarco@gmail.com. EVERYBODY WANTS TO RULE THE WORLD. The exit of Britain is like the exit out of a door, the difference is that it does not close. Slam in someone’s face. sernicolimarco@gmail. com.

KISS. I met you in a restaurant over a glass of beer and another one. I didn’ t imagine you could become so important. Union between two persons like a hundred musical notes which link to form a beautiful song. God bless you, Laura. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. MARCO E LAURA. Our story is full of love like the one of a mother for her son, the difference is that not only grew but last a life. sernicolimarco@ gmail.com. MARE NOSTRUM. A barge is starting, full of clandestines they will die drowned, betrayed by the immensity of the sea and by the hunger. Too much death. We are on the verge of a collapse, for a European government......lapse. sernicolimarco@gmail. com. ORANGE. There is nothing to miss about you, there is nothing to come before or after you. I will cover you with flowers and kisses, I will cover you with azure and blue of citrus and sun. There is nothing which passes before you, there is nothing which runs faster than you. I will cover you with gifts and smiles, I will cover you with walks around Rome, I will cover you with poetry from Wanted in Rome. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. STATUS QUO. States without money, men without work, children without food. They fight to cope.Somebody tell to believe in the church and in Francis. The pope. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. YOU LAURA. You, always around you beloved by somebody you sweet and clever you beautiful and stop you only for you and me. sernicolimarco@gmail. com. FRIENDSHIP. It isn’t important to know your name, it is sufficient to count the flights of the bees to discover how much honey there is inside of you. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. August 2016 | Wanted in Rome


MUSIC. Your heart beat like the beats of a percussion. The difference is that it doesn’t play. Loves. sernicolimarco@ gmail.com. THE MOTOR. The motor of your body is like the motor of a racing car. The difference is that it does not switch off. Rev up. sernicolimarco@gmail.com. TO LAURA, A FRIEND OF MINE. Falling in love is like simmer, unfortunately my flame was too high, but I don’t get burned Laura, because. Once she made me taste her... biological apples! sernicolimarco@gmail.com. Property for sale in town S. PAOLO GARBATELLA APT 72SQM WITH PRIVATE TERRACE 50SQM. Building dated 1957, quiet street,

residential area. Functional and bright ground floor apartment, high ceilings, completely restored in 2010. Security door, central heating, A/C. Energy class G. 2 double bedrooms, fully furnished kitchen with American bar. Bathroom w/ shower. Numerous and optimized storage spaces. Private square terrace: peaceful, pleasant with an open view to the west. Close to all utilities and strategically located: 5 min walk to S. Paolo metro station and close to Università Roma III. Price: €355,000 Expenses: €100/month, heating included. If interested, please contact Ms Nepveu at 334 / 6678476 or 347 / 2264981. Private sale. andv72@gmail.com.

Property for sale in town FLAT NEAR TERME DI SATURNIA AND MONTE ARGENTARIO, TUSCANY. 10 minutes from Saturnia, 30 from Monteargentario, 80 sqm with stone walls. Comes with permits, project & quote by local contractor. Write for info & pictures, micaelamfm@gmail.com. Rooms and flat shares TRASTEVERE - VIA DELLA LUNGARA. Large bright room with private bathroom, comfortable and well equipped. The room has a big bed, two armchairs, a desk, a wall cupboard with linen. Kitchen use. Including internet. Tel. 339 / 7857565. annabutticci@alice.it.

August 2016 | Wanted in Rome



numbers ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490. www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 333 / 8466820 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637, www.saintlouisdefrance.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com S. Susanna Lending Library Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 064827510 Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30 Tues 10.00-13.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Fri 13.00-16.00

The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details. Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel. 068553485 Cinema Doria Via Andrea Doria 52, tel. 0639721446. Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395 Fiamma Multisala Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel. 334 / 1780632, www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 emergency numbers



The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222


• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 August 2016 | Wanted in Rome


religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881, Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 389 / 9691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 334 / 2934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Sunday


Wanted in Rome | August 2016

service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www. caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787, Sunday service 10.00 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 St Susanna Church (Roman Catholic), Via XX Settembre 15, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it

Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it