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THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

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CONT

4. ST ISIDORE’S MARKS 400 YEARS IN ROME ANDY DEVANE

14. BEST THINGS TO DO IN ROME IN May 2025 16. HOW TO VISIT POPE FRANCIS’ TOMB

MISCELLANY

WHAT'S ON

18. ROME FOR children 20. STREET ART guide 22. MUSEUMS 26. ART GALLERIES 38. CULTURAL VENUES 43. RECIPE 44. puntarella rossa 46. USEFUL NUMBERS

30. EXHIBITIONS 34. CLASSICAL 34. opera 36. CULTURE NEWS

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO: Dali Studio Srl IMPAGINAZIONE: Simona Castellari STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c. DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985. Finito di stampare il 30/04/2025

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ENTS 4

ST ISIDORE’S MARKS 400 YEARS IN ROME

HOW TO VISIT POPE FRANCIS’ TOMB

BEST THINGS TO DO IN ROME IN May 2025

curltural news

History

ST ISIDORE’S MARKS 400 YEARS IN ROME IRISH FRANCISCANS CELEBRATE FOUR CENTURIES OF ST ISIDORE’S WITH ROME SYMPOSIUM

his year marks the 400th anniversary of St Isidore’s College, an Irish Franciscan landmark and Ireland’s national church in Rome. The college was founded at a time when Catholics faced religious persecution in Ireland, during the reigns of Queen Elizabeth I and James I in the late 16th and early 17th centuries.

Andy Devane This turmoil led to a multitude of Irish colleges emerging on the continent, including St Isidore’s, to provide a haven for exiled Irish clergy and those seeking religious formation. The college’s origins are shared by Ireland and Spain, a fact reflected in the sculptures of two saints on the building’s Rococo façade: St Isidore of Madrid and St Patrick of Ireland. The story starts in 1622 when a group of Spanish discalced Franciscans founded the building as a convent dedicated to the newly canonised Isidoro, a farmer and holy man from the 11th century. However after running into financial debt, they were forced to abandon their incomplete home, near Piazza Barberini, where it still stands today. The college is located in a district known as “Capo le Case” (meaning head of the houses) in an area of Rome where the city once met the countryside. Luke Wadding Fr Luke Wadding, an Irish Franciscan scholar living in Rome at the time, offered to complete the debt-ridden building project and take over St Isidore’s.

The high altar in the church of St Isidore's is decorated with a painting of S. Isidoro by Andrea Sacchi.

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He had one condition: that he could turn the convent into a seminary to train young

The cloister of St Isidore's.

Irish Franciscans for priestly service on the home mission in Ireland.

signed to host 12 people – to accommodate 60 friars.

In addition to completing the church, Wadding enlarged the building – originally de-

The new community took up residence in 1625 and within five years Wadding had paid off the debts accumulated by the previous occupants, thanks to donations from benefactors including Pope Urban VIII. Although it retained the patronal name of the Spanish saint from Madrid, Wadding was keen to underline the Irishness of the new college. This is evidenced by the frescoes of Ireland’s patron saints – Patrick and Bridget – on either side of the entrance to the church, beneath old Gaelic script from an eighthcentury text. Irish identity

Fr Luke Wadding as portrayed by Carlo Maratti (detail), St Isidore's.

The current Guardian of St Isidore’s, Fr Mícheál Mac Craith, says this was Wadding’s way of emphasising Ireland’s national identity. Wanted in Rome • May 2025 | 5

History “But Wadding was trying to present him to the Vatican as the Irish Moses, a patriarchal figure”, Mac Craith said, “so the beard added that necessary gravitas”. The five-month restoration of the frescoes was completed just in time for St Patrick’s Day, on 17 March, when the city’s Irish community thronged the exquisite, art-filled church. St Patrick’s Day In his introduction at the Mass that morning, Mac Craith paid tribute to Wadding for founding St Isidore’s as well as for his key role in establishing Ireland’s national day in 1631.

Fr Mícheál Mac Craith, Guardian of St Isidore’s.

“Wadding was actively involved in the reform of the Roman Breviary and in the compilation of a new universal calendar of the church” – Mac Craith said – “Up to then St Patrick was just a local Irish saint, but Wadding insisted and prevailed on the Vatican to mandate that the feast of St Patrick be celebrated all over the world and not just at home: from Derry to Dubrovnik, from Limerick to Lesotho, from Roscommon to Rwanda.”

“With its verses in Old Irish, St Isidore’s is the only church in Rome that uses its vernacular language in its portico” – Mac Craith said – “It would seem that when Wadding came here, he wanted to make a very strong statement: this is an Irish establishment.” Mac Craith – a distinguished scholar and professor emeritus of Modern Irish at the University of Galway – believes that the prominent depictions of Patrick and Bridget also served to make the point that: “Ireland is a separate kingdom, it has its own saints and its own language: the Irish have come to town.” Restorers from the Italian Ministry of Culture discovered recently that Patrick was initially portrayed beardless, in keeping with the earliest iconography of the saint. 6 | May 2025 • Wanted in Rome

St Patrick depicted in the portico of St Isidore's.

History fundamental to its eventual definition as a dogma, in 1854. Mac Craith notes that St Isidore’s is “not just an important place for Irish people, it’s very important for the history of the order and the history of the Church.” Artistic treasures Wadding can take credit for the fact that the college’s church is a treasure trove of 17th-century Italian art, achieved by hiring the best Roman artists of the time with the financial assistance of his Spanish patrons. Monument to Octavia Catherine Mary Byran in the church of St Isidore's.

As part of a long-standing tradition, the St Patrick’s Day Mass in Rome is presided over each year by the rector of Rome’s Pontifical Irish College which Wadding founded in 1628 for the training of diocesan priests. Wadding accomplished all of this within a decade of arriving in Rome in 1618, at the age of 30, following his studies in Lisbon. Immaculate Conception His arrival in the Eternal City came about after King Philip III of Spain chose him as theological adviser to a delegation sent to petition Pope Paul V to define the doctrine of the Immaculate Conception.

In a happy coincidence, the great art theorist Giovanni Pietro Bellori managed St Isidore’s finances from 1653 to 1684 and – encouraged by Wadding – embraced the chance to showcase his aesthetic ideas. Bellori introduced Wadding to Carlo Maratti whose Flight into Egypt in the church’s Chapel of St Joseph sealed the young artist’s fame. The painting depicts Joseph and Mary hand in hand, which Mac Craith describes as “a degree of intimacy you don’t often find in 17th century painting.” The church’s high altar is decorated with a painting of St Isidore by Andrea Sacchi, Maratti’s master, who depicted the saint

The mission failed and the royal delegation returned to Spain, however Wadding stayed in Rome where he would spend the rest of his life. He also never lost sight of the reason for his original mission. As a writer he is best known for his publication of the complete works of Duns Scotus, the mediaeval Franciscan who first developed the doctrine of the Immaculate Conception, which asserts that the Virgin Mary was free of original sin. Wadding was a leading light in investigating this doctrine and his findings proved 8 | May 2025 • Wanted in Rome

Flight into Egypt by Carlo Maratti in the church of St Isidore's.

History contemplating the Virgin Mary and Child Jesus while angels carry out his work in the fields. Mac Craith describes the church as “gently Baroque,” suggesting that Bellori “kept a lid on” the ornate exuberance associated with the movement. However the de Sylva Chapel, a jewel to the right of the main altar, is unashamedly Baroque in its magnificence. The chapel was designed for Portuguese nobleman Rodrigo Lopez de Sylva, as a funerary space for his family, by none other than Gian Lorenzo Bernini. The chapel is adorned with a painting by Maratti of the Immaculate Conception, complete with an angelic orchestra, and sculptures of the four virtues: Justice, Peace, Prudence and Charity. The latter’s exposed breasts caused an outcry in the Vatican at the end of the 19th century, leading to the “monumento scandaloso” being concealed with a bronze garment that was not removed until the 1980s. Other treasures in the church include the Barberini chapel, featuring the family’s bee motif, and a monument to the 19th-century Irish artist Amelia Curran, famous for painting a portrait of the English Romantic poet Percy Bysshe Shelley, her neighbour on nearby Via Sistina. Curran was friendly with the poet’s wife, Frankenstein author Mary Shelley, and painted a portrait of the couple’s child Wilmouse before he died in Rome aged three. The church is home to a poignant funerary monument dedicated to Octavia Catherine Mary Byran, a young Irish woman who died of a fever in 1846, the night before she was due to marry Prince Scipio Borghese, a scion of one of Rome’s noblest families. Her funeral in St Isidore’s provided the sad occasion for John Henry Newman, who became a saint in 2019, to preach his first 10 | May 2025 • Wanted in Rome

Fresco of St Bridget in the portico of St Isidore's.

sermon as a Roman Catholic. He was heavily pressurised into it by the head of the Borghese family who obtained the necessary permission for him from the Vatican, even though he had only started to study for the priesthood. “By all accounts the sermon was an unmitigated disaster”, Mac Craith said, noting that the tragic Catherine was buried in her wedding dress and that her effigy resembles Ophelia. Napoleon and Nazarenes Around the turn of the 19th century St Isidore’s was occupied by Napoleonic troops who stole two paintings by Maratti from the Chapel of the Crucifixion. Visitors may notice blank spaces in the side chapel, to the left of the entrance to the church, where the paintings once hung. “Leaving the spaces blank instead of getting replicas tells you more about the sordid realities of history”, Mac Craith mused.

History The Nazarene painters, a movement of German artists led by Johann Friedrich Overbeck, rented rooms at the college from 1810 to 1814. Inspired by painters of the late Middle Ages and early Renaissance, the group worked and lived together in a monastic-style existence, believing that all art should serve a moral or religious purpose. Some say the artists lent their name to the street where St Isidore’s stands – Via degli Artisti – however Mac Craith said there is good reason to believe that this evocative appellation dates much earlier. Franciscan scholarship and learning Wadding established a precious library at St Isidore’s, amassing 5,000 volumes. It was regularly mentioned in guidebooks to Rome in both the 17th- and 18th centuries as a notable library. Today it contains more than 24,000 volumes and its archive of early Franciscan history is “one of the richest in the world, Mac Craith said.

Wadding collected these manuscripts when he was writing the Annals of the Franciscan Order from the beginning up to the Reformation. They were published in eight very large volumes between 1625 and 1634, in what is considered his most significant work. A splendid cloister filled with orange trees and surrounded by early 18th-century frescoes of Franciscan life is hidden away in the heart of St Isidore’s. To one side of the cloister is the Aula Magna, an important room where students defended their theses down through the centuries. The grand hall is decorated with frescoes of renowned Irish Franciscan scholars and bishops alongside the saints Francis, Bonaventure and Anthony. These frescoes, executed by Fra Emanuele da Como in 1679-71, depict Irish Franciscans who contributed to developing the doctrine of the Immaculate Conception.

The church of St Isidore's. © Collegio S. Isidoro e Biblioteca Hertziana.

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THE IRISH IN ROME commemorating 400 years of Irish clerical, scholarly, and artistic presence in Rome, beginning with the establishment of Saint Isidore’s Franciscan College in 1625

28 MAY 5:30 - 8:00 SAINT ISIDORE’S COLLEGE VIA DEGLI ARTISTI, 41 00187 ROMA

29-30 MAY 9:00 - 6:00 NOTRE DAME ROME VIA OSTILIA, 15 00184 ROMA

PLENARY SPEAKERS DR. MATTEO BINASCO UNIVERSITÀ PER STRANIERI DI SIENA

The de Sylva Chapel in the church of St Isidore's.

A speech bubble emanating from the mouth of each says something praiseworthy about Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, directing the eyes of the spectator to the image of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception in the centre of the far wall. The large fresco to your right as you enter the Aula shows the scholars of St Isidore’s studying in the library. It has a long inscription in Latin underneath asserting that the Irish nation, destroyed at home by Cromwell, is being recreated in Rome through the scholarship of Irish Franciscan exiles. Mac Craith recalls how Dublin politician Gary Gannon, during a recent visit to St. Isidore’s, was amazed to discover a location “so defiantly Irish” in the middle of Rome. The scholars depicted in the Aula are linked to both St Isidore’s and the Irish Franciscan college in Louvain, founded in the Belgian city in 1607. The frescoes serve as a reminder that Irish Franciscan centres of scholarship and spirituality have flourished on the European continent since the early 17th century. This rich tradition of learning continues today with the ongoing formation of Franciscan friars at St Isidore’s, a venerable Irish institution whose Hibernian roots are deeply intertwined with those of Spain, Rome, Louvain and Europe itself. Wadding, who served as rector of St Isidore’s

PROF. CLARE CARROLL CUNY PROF. MARIAN LYONS MAYNOOTH UNIVERSITY PROF. THOMAS O’CONNOR MAYNOOTH UNIVERSITY

FEATURED AUTHORS LIAM MAC CÓIL JOSEPH O’CONNOR Poster design by Ariel Clark-Semyck. Featured artworks: (1) Francis Joseph Bigger. Illustration of Saint Isidore’s College. "The Irish in Rome in the Seventeenth Century." Ulster Journal of Archaeology, vol. 5, no. 3, May 1899, p. 15. (2) Emanuele da Como. Fresco of Luke Wadding. 1671-72, Aula of Saint Isidore’s College, Rome. We thank the editor of the Ulster Journal of Archaeology and the guardian o f St. Isidore's for permission to reproduce these images.

Poster for The Irish in Rome conference.

for 30 years, was also Ireland’s first ever accredited Irish ambassador. The Confederation of Kilkenny in 1642 appointed him with letters patent as their representative in Rome. He died on 18 November 1657, at the age of 69, and is buried in the crypt of St Isidore’s. The Irish in Rome conference Leading academics will gather in Rome from 28-30 May for a three-day symposium to commemorate 400 years of an official Irish presence in Rome, beginning in 1625 with the establishment of St Isidore’s. Titled ‘The Irish in Rome,’ the conference will be co-hosted by the Keough-Naughton Institute for Irish Studies at the University of Notre Dame and St Isidore’s College. The conference will feature three plenary sessions, two featured author readings, and a series of panels that engage with the cultural exchanges and historical impacts arising from four centuries of Irish clerical, scholarly and artistic presence in Rome. Wanted in Rome • May 2025 | 13

Lifestyle

BEST THINGS TO DO IN ROME IN MAY 2025

GUIDE TO WHAT’S ON IN ROME THIS MONTH

ay is one of the best times to visit Rome as spring is in full bloom and temperatures become warmer, with many events moving outdoors. Here are some tips for the best things to do in Rome in May 2025. Primo Maggio concert May kicks off with Labour Day, or the Festa del Lavoro, a public holiday in Italy. Rome will mark the event with a free concert or “concertone” in the newly restyled Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano. The line-up of Italian acts includes Lucio Corsi, Gabry Ponte, Gaia, Franco126 and Brunori Sas. The Primo Maggio concert will begin at 15.00 and lasts until around midnight. Free Museums Sunday

State museums and archaeological sites in Rome and across Italy will open for free on Sunday 4 May. The free landmark sites in the capital range from the Capitoline Museums to the Museo Forma Urbis where visi-

tors can walk across a glass floor over the surviving fragments of a famed marble map of ancient Rome. Italian Open Rome hosts the 81st edition of the Internazionali BNL d’Italia, also known as the Italian Open, with the world’s top tennis stars battling it out at the Foro Italico from 29 April until 18 May. Ahead of the prestigious tennis event, the city has set up a red clay court in Piazza del Popolo where the public can watch pre-qualifying men’s and women’s games twice a day - at 11.00 and 15.00 - until 3 May. Race for the Cure The Komen Race for the Cure takes place on the streets of central Rome on Sunday 11 May to raise funds and awareness for breast cancer. The charity sporting event is divided into three categories: a non-competitive 5-km run; a 2-km walk; and a competitive 5-km race. The main event is preceded by a three-day festival of health and fitness workshops, family activities and free medical screening at the Race Village in the Circus Maximus. Spanish Steps in full bloom

Azaleas on the Spanish Steps.

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Visitors to the Spanish Steps will be able to enjoy one of Rome’s most spectacular spring traditions: hundreds of flowering azaleas decorate the historic staircase linking Piazza di Spagna with the church of Trinità de’ Monti. The azaleas will remain in place until 18 May after which they will be returned to the city nurseries until next spring.

Piazza di Siena horse jumping show. Photo: Marco Iacobucci Epp /Shutterstock.com.

Rose garden Another much-anticipated spring tradition in Rome is the reopening of the city’s rose garden on the slopes of the Aventine Hill. Home to more than 1,000 varieties of botanical, ancient and modern roses from all over the world, the Roseto Comunale can be visited every day from 08.30 to 19.30 until 16 June. Visits are free and no reservation is required. Night of Museums Rome’s city-run museums will stay open until 02.00 on the night of Saturday 17 May as the capital celebrates Notte dei Musei or Night of Museums. The popular initiative will include free performances of live music, concerts, theatre and dance in municipal museums, from 20.00 until 02.00, with a symbolic entry fee of just €1.

is open to the public and features the cream of international show jumpers in competition. Exhibitions in Rome The Rome exhibition that everyone is talking about is the Caravaggio blockbuster, hailed as among the most important and ambitious showcases ever dedicated to the Baroque genius. Other big new exhibitions in Rome include Munch at Palazzo Bonaparte, and, Flowers at the Chiostro del Bramante, and I Farnesi at the Capitoline Museums. For more events and things to do in Rome see the What’s On guide on our website, www.wantedinrome.com.

Piazza di Siena The 92nd edition of the Piazza di Siena horse show takes place in Rome’s Villa Borghese park, both in the Piazza di Siena grounds and the Galopattoio, from 21-25 May. The prestigious five-day event, described by organisers as “the most beautiful horse show in the world”,

Race for the Cure. Photo credit: Angelo Cordeschi / Shutterstock.com. Wanted in Rome • May 2025 | 15

Religion

HOW TO VISIT POPE FRANCIS’ TOMB

POPE FRANCIS IS BURIED IN THE BASILICA OF ST MARY MAJOR IN ROME

aithful and pilgrims can visit the tomb of Pope Francis, who died on 21 April aged 88, in the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore or St Mary Major every day from 07.00 to 19.30. Admission is free to the papal basilica which is located in the Esquilino area of Rome near Termini train station. In choosing Santa Maria Maggiore, Francis became the first pope in more than 120 years to be buried outside St Peter’s. There are already seven popes buried in Santa Maria Maggiore between the 12th and 17th centuries, the last of which was Clement IX in 1669.

Devotion The late pontiff was particularly devoted to the church which he visited before and after his travels to pray to the Marian icon of the Salus Populi Romani. Over the course of his 12-year pontificate he made more than 100 visits to the fifth-century basilica which he last visited on Palm Sunday, eight days before he died. In accordance with his final wishes, Francis is buried in a simple tomb “without particular decoration”. His will also specified that he had arranged for an unnamed benefactor to cover the costs of his burial. In an interview with Mexican broadcaster

The Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. Photo credit: Kyle J Little / Shutterstock.com.

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Religion N+ in 2023, Pope Francis said his tomb was “already prepared” in the Rome basilica. Tomb The tomb is made of marble from the northern Italian region of Liguria, from where his maternal great-grandfather, Vincenzo Sivori, emigrated to Argentina in the 19th century. Francis’ tomb bears the inscription of his papal name in Latin – “Franciscus” – and a reproduction of his pectoral cross. The tomb is located in the left nave, between the Pauline Chapel – where his beloved Salus Populi Romani icon is located – and the Sforza Chapel.

Pope Francis' tomb. Photos Vatican Media.

A brief history of the basilica Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Santa Maria Maggiore is one of the four major papal basilicas as well as one of the Seven Pilgrim Churches of Rome. According to legend, a fourth-century Roman couple wished to donate their possessions to the Church, and prayed for divine guidance. On the night of 4/5 August in the year 352 the Virgin Mary appeared to the couple in a vision, telling them that a miracle would reveal a site where they should build a new church. That same night — so the story goes — a miraculous fall of snow landed on a hill in the Esquilino. Pope Liberius is said to have travelled to the snow-covered site, tracing an outline of the planned church whose construction was financed by the wealthy couple. Although there is no historical basis for the story, the event is still celebrated each year on 5 August when the church recreates the miracle by dropping white rose petals from the ceiling. The basilica houses a relic of the Holy Crib, the manger in which Baby Jesus was laid to rest, as well as the remains of Saint Matthew and Saint Jerome.

Santa Maria Maggiore is also home to the oldest sculptural nativity in the world, created in 1291 by Arnolfo di Cambio, and the tomb of Baroque genius Gian Lorenzo Bernini. How to get to St Mary Major by public transport Rome’s central Termini station is located a few blocks away from the basilica, and is connected to the Metro A and B/B1 subway lines as well as the regional railways FL4, FL5, FL6, FL7 and FL8. The following bus lines also stop near the basilica: C3, 16, 70, 71, 75, 105, 117 (not on holidays), 150F, 360, 514, 590, 649 and 714. Wanted in Rome • May 2025 | 17

ARTandSEEK English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com. Bioparco special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it. Bowling Silvestri with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

18 | May 2025 • Wanted in Rome

a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com. Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment. Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.

of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and -

Cinecittà World of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with EUR, south of Rome. Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it. Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. no/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473. Explora creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it. Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it. Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it. Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it. Rainbow Magicland divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids. Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital. Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it. Zoomarine other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre. Here is where to is find Rome’s mainthe street artstreet projects murals. from the centre. Here where to find main artand projects and murals around Rome. Esquilino Esquilino Murals Murals byby Alice Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Diamond. PiazzaMafredo Manfredo Fanti 47. Piazza Fanti 47.

Marconi Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artistSeth Seth is located in a street artist is located in a former former soap factory Via Antonio soap factory on Viaon Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite dro, opposite Ostiense'sOstiense’s landmark Gasometro. For For details see landmark Gasometro. details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz Metropoliz This This former former meat meat factory factory inin the the outskirts of Rome is nowa astreet street outskirts of Rome is now art art museumasaswell well as as being museum being home hometoto some200 200squatting squatters,migrants. many of The them some migrants. The Museo dell’Altrodi e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altroveor diMAAM, Metropoliz, or MAAM, Metropoliz, is only open is only open on Saturdays, and on Saturdays, and features the work features the work of more than 300 of more than 300 artists including artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Edoardo Kobra, and GioDiamond. Pistone, Pistone, Sten&Lex See Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and MAAM Facebook page for details. Borondo. See MAAM Via Prenestina 913. Facebook page for details. Via Prenestina 913. Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del by by Blu.Blu. Via Via del Porto Fronte Del Porto Porto del Fluviale. Porto Fluviale. Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via Fish’n’Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale. Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali. Magazzini Shelley by Generali. Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense. Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense. underpass, Via Ostiense. Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Pigneto Ostiense. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Pigneto Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71. Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

20 | May 2025 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi. Lodi. 2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio. Fortebraccio. 2501 mural on Via Blu Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca. Francesco Baracca. Prati Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria. Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino. Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Magee. Via Via The by Fintan Cristoforo Numai. Cristoforo Numai. Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo. Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals andand Gio Tunnel muralsby byMr MrTHOMS THOMS Pistone. Via Decio Mure.Mure. Gio Pistone. Via Decio Nido di di Vespe ViaVia del Nido VespebybyLucamaleonte. Lucamaleonte. Monte del Grano. del Monte del Grano. Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89. Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by byBlu. Blu.Via ViaCiciliano Ciciliano and and Via Via Murals Palombini (Casal Palombini (Casaldè dèPazzi). Pazzi). Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare. Metro B station. Metro B station. S.S. Basilio Basilio SanBa SanBa features features large-scale large-scale works on on the façades façades of in the of social-housing social-housingblocks blocks the disadvantaged north-east suburb of in the disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerasuburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. tion project includes works by Italian The project artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu works by Italian artists alongside Spain's Liqen. ViaAgostino Maiolati, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Spain’s Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, S. Giovanni Via Treia. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S. Giovanni Apulia corner of Via Farsalo. Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s aa New NewDay Daybyby Alice Pasquini. It’s Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico. Anton Ludovico. S. Lorenzo S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli. Feminicide mural by Elisa Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo. Caracciolo. Via Dei Sardi. Via Dei Sardi. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159. Mural by by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Via Aquilonia. Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia. S. Pietro S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo. Gallo. Testaccio Testaccio Hunted byby ROA. ViaVia Galvani. HuntedWolf Wolf ROA. Galvani. #KindComments by by Alice Pasquini, Via #KindComments Alice Pasquini, Volta, Testaccio market. Via Volta, Testaccio market. Tor Pignattara Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via ViaAntonio AntonioTempesta. Tempesta. Dulk. Etnik.Via ViaBartolomeo Bartolomeo Perestrello Etnik. Perestrello 51. 51. Coﬀee Break Etam Cru. Via Coffee Break by Etamby Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni. Ludovico Pavoni. Tom by Jef Via Gabrio TomSawyer Sawyer by Aerosol. Jef Aerosol. Via Serbelloni. Gabrio Serbelloni. Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema PasoliniVia by Acqua Diavù.Bullicante. Former Cinema Impero, Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante. Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Alessi. Herakut. Capua 14. GaleazzoVia Alessi. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Herakut. Via Capua 14. Oddi 6. Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6. Tor Marancia Tor Big Marancia The City Life scheme features 14-m The Big City Life scheme tall murals by 22 Italian and features interna14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and tional street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia andartists Jerico.including The idea international street was to transform area's of Mr Klevra, Seth,the Gaia andblocks Jerico. flats into an open-air art museum. Via The idea was to transform the area’s Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it. blocks of ﬂats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth. Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome • May 2025 | 21

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS IT IS ADVISABLE TO CHECK WEBSITES FOR VISITING DETAILS DETAILS. IN SOME CASES RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED. VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel. 0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30. Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

22 | May 2025 • Wanted in Rome

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Italy's modern art collection. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours on prior booking.

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it. Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it. Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

MAHLER HARDING

numero editabile

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

CITY MUSEUMS

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Centrale Montemartini

Chiostro Del Bramante

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Capitoline Museums

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Galleria Colonna

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Keats-Shelley House

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Palazzo Merulana

Museo Napoleonico

Wanted in Rome • May 2025 | 25

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ff-maam.it.

Contemporary Cluster

Multidisciplinary venue devoted to visual art, design, architecture and fashion design at Palazzo Brancaccio. Via Merulana 248, tel. 0631709949, www.contemporarycluster.com.

C.R.E.T.A.

Cultural association promoting ceramics and the visual, humanistic, musical and culinary arts through workshops, exhibitions and artist residencies. Palazzo Delfini, Via dei Delfini 17, tel. 0689827701, www.cretarome.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

26 | May 2025 • Wanted in Rome

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53 tel. 0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

GALLA

Exhibition space designed to showcase original, unconventional art works at affordable prices by artists working in various fields. Via degli Zingari 28, tel. 3476552515, www.facebook.com/GALLAmonti.

Galleria Alessandro Bonomo

Gallery showing the works of important Italian and international visual artists. Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858, www.bonomogallery.com.

Galleria Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Russo

This historic gallery holds group and solo exhibitions showcasing the work of major 20th-century Italian painters alongside promising new Italian artists. Via Alibert 20, tel. 066789949, www.galleriarusso.it.

Galleria Varsi

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Plus Arte Puls

A dynamic gallery promoting street culture and contemporary art movements. Via di Affogalasino 34, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Gavin Brown's Enterprise

Sala 1

New York gallerist Gavin Brown shows the work of international artists at his Trastevere gallery in a deconsecrated church dating to the eighth century. S. Andrea de Scaphis, Via dei Vascellari 69, www.gavinbrown.biz.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via Giuseppe Acerbi 31A, tel. 0653098768, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art gallery that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, t el. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Nero Gallery

Space dedicated to showcasing young international artists working in pop surrealism, lowbrow art, dark art, comic art and surrealism. Via Castruccio Castracane 9, tel. 0627801418, www.nerogallery.com.

Nomas Foundation

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TraleVolte

Contemporary art gallery focusing on the relationship between art and architecture, hosting solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

Von Buren Contemporary

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via Giulia 13, tel. 3351633518, www.vonburencontemporary.com.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www.wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

Wanted in Rome • May 2025 | 27

- Since 1946 -

TRANSFORMING THE WORLD THROUGH EDUCATION World Class International Curriculum

Forest School

Leader in Technology Well-being Global Citizenship

Via di Villa Lauchli 180, 00191 Rome Tel: +39 06 362 91012 admissions@marymountrome.com 28 | May 2025 • Wanted in Rome www.marymountrome.com

where to go in Rome

WHAT’S ON Global Baroque at Scuderie del Quirinale. Pier Francesco Mola, Oriental Warrior, 1650, Parigi, Musée du Louvre. See page 30.

Wanted in Rome • May 2025 | 29

EXHIBITIONS GLOBAL BAROQUE: THE WORLD IN ROME IN THE AGE OF BERNINI 4 APRIL-13 JULY

The Scuderie del Quirinale hosts an exhibition taking visitors on a journey through Rome in the Baroque period, a cosmopolitan city that was at the centre of a complex network of travels and relationships that transcended national and cultural borders. The works on display, by Baroque masters including Gian Lorenzo Bernini, Pietro da Cortona and Nicolas Poussin, reveal a wealth of references to Africa, America and Asia. This surprisingly multi-ethnic and multicultural world was populated by missionaries, diplomats and travellers who brought to Rome the colour, stories and cultural traditions of distant lands. The exhibition is organised with Galleria Borghese and with the participation and collaboration of prestigious national and international institutions and museums. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via Ventiquattro Maggio 16, www. scuderiequirinale.it.

CARAVAGGIO 2025 7 MARCH-6 JULY

An exhibition hailed as among the most important and ambitious showcases ever of Caravaggio’s work opens in Rome to coincide with the Vatican’s Jubilee Year. Organisers say the exhibition at Palazzo Barberini comprises an “exceptional number” of paintings by the Baroque master whose full name was Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio. The exhibited works include loans from prestigious national and international collections as well as two rediscovered masterpieces on display for the first time together and some new discoveries. Organised especially for the 2025 Jubilee Year, the exhibition illustrates how Caravaggio (1571-1610) shaped the artistic, religious and social landscape of his era. Exhibition curators Francesca

30 | May 2025 • Wanted in Rome

Cappelletti, Maria Cristina Terzaghi and Thomas Clement Salomon say the show will include Caravaggio’s most celebrated works, as well as lesser-known paintings, and will highlight “the power and modernity” of his art. The exhibited paintings include the Portrait of Maffeo Barberini, recently put on public display more than 60 years after its rediscovery, as well as loans from outside Italy including Ecce Homo; Saint Catherine of Alexandria; Martha and Mary Magdalene; and Caravaggio’s last painting, The Martyrdom of Saint Ursula, completed before the artist’s death aged 38. The exhibition also reunites three works commissioned by the banker and patron of the arts Ottavio Costa: Judith and Holofernes from Palazzo Barberini alongside two paintings on loan: Saint John the Baptist in the Wilderness and Saint Francis of Assisi in Ecstasy. The show is arranged into theme-based sections exploring various aspects of the artist’s career, including the evolution of his style and dramatic use of chiaroscuro. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www.barberinicorsini.org.

PICASSO LO STRANIERO 27 FEB-29 JUNE

Rome’s Museo del Corso charts the complex identity of Pablo Picasso, one of the most revolutionary artists of the 20th century, with more than 100 works. As the title suggests, (straniero means “foreigner” in Italian), the show focuses on the Spanish artist’s life in France – a country that welcomed him without ever officially recognising him as a citizen – examining how his “outsider” status shaped his artistic vision and influenced his relationships. The exhibition, which comes to Rome after Milan and Mantua, comprises paintings, drawings, prints, ceramics and documents as well as a section devoted to Picasso’s enriching time in the Italian capital in 1917. Museo del Corso, Palazzo Cipolla, Via del Corso 320, www.museodelcorso.com.

FLOWERS: FROM THE RENAISSANCE TO ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE 14 FEB-14 SEPT

Rome’s Chiostro del Bramante hosts a vibrant exhibition that

Caravaggio at Palazzo Barberini. I Bari, Kimbell Art Museum, Fort Worth.

from the early 16th century to the start of the 17th century. Many of the exhibited works are on loan from the National Archaeological Museum of Naples, the Capodimonte Museum, the National Library and other Italian and foreign collections, including the J. P. Morgan Library in New York. Villa Caffarelli, Capitoline Museums, www.museicapitolini.org.

MUNCH: THE INNER SCREAM 11 FEB-2 JUNE

celebrates the evocative power of flowers, from the Renissance to the age of artificial intelligence. Combining art, science and technology, the exhibition offers a journey through five centuries of art, culture and innovation, from the masterpieces of Jan Brueghel and Ai Weiwei up to contemporary digital art. “Fragile and powerful, flowers speak a universal language capable of spanning centuries and cultures”, providing an inexhaustible source of inspiration for artists of all ages, organisers say. The exhibition comprises more than 90 works from prestigious institutions including Rome’s Galleria Borghese, the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay, the Petit Palais and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. The show also contains works from the botanical and scientific collections of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew in London and the Museo Civico di Zoologia in Rome. Chiostro del Bramante, Via Arco della Pace 5, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Farnese in 16th-century Rome. Origins and Fortune of a Collection, the exhibition is being held at Villa Caffarelli, part of the Capitoline Museums. The 140 works on display include ancient sculptures, bronzes, paintings, drawings, manuscripts, gems and coins from the most prestigious collection of works of art and archaeological finds of the Renaissance era. Highlights include portraits by Raphael, Titian and Domenichino as well as Roman sculptures including Ganymede and the Eagle, and Pan and Daphne. Organised to coincide with the current Jubilee Year, the exhibition tells the story of the Farnese collection by reconstructing the period of its greatest splendour,

Palazzo Bonaparte is to host a major exhibition dedicated to the work of Norwegian painter Edvard Munch in what is billed as the largest such retrospective ever held in Italy. The exhibition, which features 100 masterpieces on loan from the Munch Museum in Oslo, comes to Rome from Milan in what organisers say was the most visited show in Italy in 2024. The Rome exhibition, which has a new layout, arrives 20 years after the last show devoted to the Norwegian master (1863–1944) whose paintings are celebrated for delving into the deepest anxieties of the human soul. Curated by Munch expert Patricia G. Berman, the exhibition features Munch’s best known works including Despair, Melancholy, Dancing on a Shore, Girls on the Bridge, The Death of Marat, Starry Night and also one of the versions of The Scream. Palazzo Bonaparte, Piazza Venezia 5, www.mostrepalazzobonaparte.it.

SALVADOR DALI: TRA ARTE E

I FARNESI NELLA ROMA DEL CINQUECENTO 11 FEB-18 MAY

This exhibition is dedicated to the magnificent Farnese art collection and the influence of Pope Paul III Farnese on the Eternal City during the Jubilee of 1550. Titled The

I Farnese nella Roma del Cinquecento at Villa Caffarelli. Madonna del Divino Amore by Raphael (detail).

Wanted in Rome • May 2025 | 31

MITO

25 JAN-27 JULY

The Museo Storico della Fanteria showcases works by Surrealist master Salvador Dalí and other European artists and writers linked to the Surrealism movement. Titled Between Art and Myth, the exhibition comprises around 80 works including paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics, books and photographs, on loan from private collections in France and Italy. The exhibited works chart the development of Dalí’s career, from the early days up to the final years of his life. Other artists and writers represented in the exhibition include René Magritte, Max Ernst, André Masson, Man Ray, Leonor Fini, Giorgio de Chirico, along with writers André Breton, Jean Cocteau and Louis Aragon. The Museo Storico della Fanteria is located in Piazza Santa Croce in Gerusalemme 7. Mon-Fri 09.30-19.30. Sat-Sun 09.30 to 20.30. For information and booking contact prenotazioni@ navigaresrl.com.

FRANCO FONTANA: RETROSPECTIVE 13 DEC-31 AUG

Rome hosts a retrospective dedicated to the work of Franco Fontana, the Italian photographer best known for his brilliantly-coloured landscapes, at the Ara Pacis Museum. Described as “a celebration of geometric lines and an explosion of colours”, the exibition is billed as the first major retrospective devoted to the 90-year-old photographer from Modena. One of the greatest Italian photographers of the 20th century, Fontana’s photos have been used as cover art for jazz records and his vibrant style has been referred to as Photographic Trans-avantgarde. The Rome exhibition features more than 200 images, including American landscapes, cityscapes and and swimming pools as well as his iconic portrayals of the Appian Way and Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana in Rome. See cover of this edition. Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, www.arapacis.it.

32 | May 2025 • Wanted in Rome

ROMA PITTRICE 25 OCT-4 MAY

The Museo di Roma at Palazzo Braschi presents an exhibition dedicated to women artists active in Rome between the 16th and 19th centuries. The exhibition comprises more than 130 works, many displayed publicly for the first time, by 56 artists. Organisers say the aim of the show is to highlight the paintings and careers of these artists who were often overlooked due to lack of documentation or because their works had been attributed to male painters. The artists whose work is exhibited

include Maria Felice Tibaldi Subleyras, Angelika Kaufmann, Laura Piranesi, Marianna Candidi Dionigi, Louise Seidler and Emma Gaggiotti. The exhibition also includes works by famed painters including Lavinia Fontana, Artemisia Gentileschi and Giovanna Garzoni as well as lesserknown artists such as Giustiniana Guidotti, Ida Botti or Amalia De Angelis. Many of the works on display come from Rome’s city museums, with other paintings on loan from prestigious national and international collections. Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, www.museodiroma.it.

Franco Fontana at the Ara Pacis. Phoenix, Ariziona (1979).

CLASSICAL FAMILY CONCERT 4 MAY

The Dynamis Piano Quartet stages a Family Concert with music by Fauré and Piazzolla. Aimed at a broad audience, the Family Concerts are designed for young people, students and families who wish to establish a lighthearted yet engaging relationship with the experience of musical listening. The concerts, lasting a maximum of one hour and without an intermission, are preceded by an introduction to the programme and offer a wide variety of repertoires and ensembles. Sala Santa Cecilia 11.00.

15-17 MAY

Daniele Gatti conducts the orchestra and choir of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia in a performance of two choral works by Brahms - The Song of the Fates and The Song of Destiny - and Bruckner’s Symphony No. 9. Sala Santa Cecilia. 15 May 19.30. 16 May 20.30. 17 May 18.00.

GEORGE BENJAMIN: WRITTEN ON SKIN 22-24 MAY

DANIELE GATTI / BRAHMS / BRUCKNER

George Benjamin conducts the orchestra of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia in a production of his three-part opera Written on Skin, directed by Ben Davis with text by Martin Crimp. Hailed by international critics as one of the most important works of the 21st century, Benjamin’s opera draws inspiration from the 13th-century Provençal legend of the troubadour

opera

a performance of Shostakovich’ Symphony No. 5 in D minor and Beethoven’s Symphony No. 5 in C minor. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

SUOR ANGELICA – IL PRIGIONIERO 2 MAY

Michele Mariotti conducts and Calixto Bieito directs Suor Angelica (Sister Angelica), an opera in one act by Giacomo Puccini to an original Italian libretto by Giovacchino Forzano, with Corinne Winters / Yolanda Auyanet alternating in the lead role. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

TOSCA

9, 11, 12, 13 MAY

Rome’s opera house celebrate the 125th anniversary of Giacomo Puccini’s Tosca with a production of the opera classic, conducted by James Conlon and directed by Alessandro Talevi, which premiered in the Italian capital on 14 January 1900. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

JAMES CONLON 10 MAY

James Conlon conducts the orchestra of Rome’s opera house in

34 | May 2025 • Wanted in Rome

IL RE PASTORE 14-23 MAY

Manlio Benzi conducts and Cecilia Ligorio directs Mozart’s opera Il re pastore (The Shepherd King) is an opera, K. 208, written by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart to an Italian libretto by Metastasio, edited by Giambattista Varesco. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, www.operaroma.it.

CARACALLA FESTIVAL 29 JUNE-7 AUG

Rome’s opera house has unveiled its programme for its open-air summer festival at the Baths of Caracalla. Under the title “Between the Sacred and the Human,” the 2025 edition of the Caracalla Festival will comprise a diverse range of genres including opera, musicals, dance, sacred music and pop concerts. The festival opens on the feast of Rome’s patron saints Peter and Paul with a special event linked to the Jubilee Year at a new location in addition to the Baths

Guillaume de Cabestanh, retold by Boccaccio in the Decameron. Love and jealousy are presented as in a romantic opera but viewed from a contemporary perspective. Sala Santa Cecilia. 22 May 19.30. 23 May 20.30. 24 May 18.00.

DANIELE GATTI / WAGNER / STRAUSS 29-31 MAY

Daniele Gatti conducts the orchestra of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, exploring the German Romantic repertoire with excerpts from Wagner’s Twilight of the Gods and the symphonic poem A Hero’s Life by Richard Strauss. Sala Santa Cecilia. 29 May 19.30. 30 May 20.30. 31 May 18.00. All concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30. For more details including tickets see S. Cecilia website, www.santacecilia.it. of Caracalla: the Basilica of Maxentius in the Roman Forum. The ancient venue, which dates to the fourth century, will host operatic productions for the first time, offering a “more intimate stage” according to the festival’s director Damiano Michieletto. Central to the 2025 programme are four new productions: Handel’s Resurrection, Verdi’s La Traviata, Mozart’s Don Giovanni and Bernstein’s West Side Story, directed respectively by Ilaria Lanzino, Sláva Daubnerová, Vasily Barkhatov and Damiano Michieletto. The festival’s dance section will see the opera house’s ballet corps, directed by Eleonora Abbagnato, stage two contemporary classics: Ravel’s Bolero directed by Maurice Béjart and Stravinsky’s Le Sacre du printemps with the choreography of Pina Bausch. Dance fans can also look forward to the traditional performance by Roberto Bolle and Friends. Among the acts confirmed for the series of pop concerts, starting on 3 June, are Antonello Venditti, Alessandra Amoroso, Fiorella Mannoia and Giovanni Allevi. The programme closes with La Pasión según San Marcos by Argentine composer Osvaldo Golijov. Tickets for the festival are currently on sale at the box office of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma and online via www.ticketone.it.

Wanted in Rome • May 2025 | 35

CULTURE NEWS ROME METRO C ART

Marinella Senatore is the second artist to transform the giant silos at the Metro C construction site in Piazza Venezia as part of the Murales open-air art project. Senatore is among six contemporary artists, following Pietro Ruffo, whose work is displayed on the towering silos which blot out the view of the Vittoriano and offer a surface area of 640 square metres. Originally from Italy’s southern Campania region, Senatore is a Romebased multidisciplinary artist with a background in music, fine arts and film. She said her mural, titled Ci eleviamo alzando gli altri, was inspired by the “tradition of the theatre of Rome: the city as an open-air stage, with a series of suggestions that overlap - the architecture, the landscape, the construction site, the sounds, the colours”. Rome inaugurated the project last December with the unveiling of Ruffo’s Costellazioni di Roma, a blue and white mural that recalled constellations and legends associated with the city. The Murales scheme, promoted by the Metro C consortium led by Webuild and Vianini Lavori, aims to use the silos as an innovative platform to exhibit artwork by renowned contemporary artists. Every four months, the silos of the Piazza Venezia construction site will host rotating new works by six artists who will be invited to interpret the concept of urban transformation. The next participating artists will be Elisabetta Benassi, Liliana Moro, Toiletpaper and Nico Vascellari who will each take turns until December 2026.

ROME MUSEUMS OPEN STUDY ROOMS

Rome continues to expand its network of study rooms in municipal museums and libraries to provide students with “accessible and welcoming” public spaces for studying. The measure was first introduced by the city in 2023 to address the needs of the hundreds of thousands of students living in the capital. Palazzo delle Esposizioni is the latest museum to open a study hall - accessible Tuesday to Sunday from 10.00 to 20.00 - along with the Casa del Cinema and the Pietro Canonica Museum. The study rooms are managed by the municipal public library network and comprise spaces made available from the city as well as third parties. In

Palazzo delle Esposizioni opens a public study room. Photo: Galina Savina / Shutterstock.com.

36 | May 2025 • Wanted in Rome

Artwork in Piazza Venezia by Marinella Senatore. Photo WeBuild.

recent months Palazzo Braschi, MACRO and the Pelanda at the Mattatoio have opened study rooms, with new facilities set to open soon at the Celio Archaeological Park and at Centrale Montemartini. The city’s mayor Roberto Gualtieri has said the move is part of making Rome a “cutting-edge city for young people” and was aimed in particular at “the tens of thousands of offcampus students forced to study in cramped rooms due to high rents.” The initiative runs in parallel to services already provided by city libraries, with extended opening hours, in both the centre and the suburbs.

NETFLIX PAYS TRIBUTE TO ITALIAN CINEMA

Netflix is showcasing a series of iconic Italian movies until 15 May to mark the Made in Italy Day, held on 15 April, which celebrates Italian creativity, quality and innovation. The Italian film series includes three classics by Roberto Rossellini including a restored version of Roma città aperta (1945) which this year celebrates its 80th anniversary this year, Paisà (1946) and Germania anno zero (1948). There are also two of the most iconic films by Federico Fellini: La Dolce Vita (1960) and 8 and 1⁄2 (1963). The classics include Il Gattopardo (1963), Luchino Visconti’s masterpiece based on the novel of the same name by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, which inspired the new Netflix miniseries. The series includes a cornerstone of the spaghetti western genre, Sergio Leone’s A Fistful of Dollars (1964) with Clint Eastwood and Gian Maria Volonté. There is also space for comedy with Un americano a Roma (1954), one of the most famous films starring Alberto Sordi, by Steno who directed another classic in the Netflix collection: Un giorno in pretura (1954), and Luciano Salce’s cult movie Fantozzi (1975), the first in a series of comic capers starring the accountant Ugo Fantozzi, played by Paolo Villaggio. Roberto Benigni and Massimo Troisi, protagonists and directors of Non ci resta che piangere (1984), also make the cut with Johnny Stecchino (1991), Life is Beautiful (1997) and Ricomincio da tre (1981). The collection includes Mediterraneo (1991) by Gabriele Salvatores, winner of the Oscar for best foreign language film in 1992, and I cento passi (2000) by Marco Tullio Giordana. Among the recent titles of Italian cinema in the collection there are films such as La grande bellezza (2013) and È stata la mano di Dio (2021), both by Paolo Sorrentino whose latest film Parthenope (2025) is also available on Netflix. Andy Devane

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For more info about the BA programs, contact admissions@johncabot.edu Wanted in Rome • May 2025 | 37 For info about the MA programs, contact graduatestudies@johncabot.edu

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city. The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city. There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums. Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All

concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica. Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards. Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com 5038 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome | May 2025 • Wanted in Rome

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates. Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 0686391361 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, 068553485 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com 068553485 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. Intrastevere, Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 066864395,Vicolo www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in 3, Lucina 16/g, tel. Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni tel. 065884230 066861068 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Sacher, Piazza Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Space Moderno, della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111 Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Space Parco de’ Medici, Space Moderno, Piazza Viale della Salvatore RepubblicaRebec44, tel. chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 06892111

Troisi, ViaParco Girolamo www.cinematroisi.it. Space de’ Induno Medici,1,Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

dd p p 38 Wanted in Rome | December 2017

Teatro 06684000314, ww T Teatro Belli, 06684000314, ww ww T Teatro ww Brancaccio, ww T Teatro ww Ghione, ww T Teatro ww 06684000311, ww T 06684000311, ww

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel. Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel. 06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel. Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net 50 | Jan 2019 • Wanted in Rome

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel. 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel. 14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel. PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel. Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel. 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel. Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel. Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted Rome • May 2025 | 41 51 | Octin2018 • Wanted in Rome

42 | May 2025 • Wanted in Rome

agorski

By Kate Z

FETTUCCINE AGLIO, OLIO, BACCALÀ E PECORINO Baccalà is cod which has been preserved by first salting and then drying so the crusty hunks of fish must be rehydrated and desalted by soaking them in cold water for at least 24 hours with regular rinsing. In Rome baccalà is traditionally eaten on a Friday when it will generally be served with ceci (chickpeas, which also need a good soak before cooking). The rinsing and cleaning is a bit of a fuss so many of the city’s delicatessens will sell ready-soaked fillets of baccalà on Thursdays and Friday; look out for them by the doorway, submerged in large tanks of water. The bright white fillets are often prepared either pan-fried or baked, while Rome’s takeaway shops and pizzerie will serve them battered and deep fried. This recipe blends the tradition of baccalà with the classic pasta recipe of aglio, olio e peperoncino (oil, garlic and chili) and mixes the cod with a hefty sprinkling of pecorino romano to thicken the sauce. Romans are usually horrified by the idea of pairing fish and cheese together but this recipe is a good way to convince them that it works perfectly. Pair the dish with a well-structured dry white wine which will stand up to the strong flavours of baccalà and pecorino. A good local choice from Lazio is the organic white Capolemole by Marco Carpineti.

Ingredients Serves 2 • 250g of desalted baccalà • 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley (about 1 large fillet) • Half a glass of white wine • 180g fresh fettuccine • 2 handfuls of grated pecorino romano • 1 clove of garlic • Extra virgin olive oil • 1 fresh red chili

The first thing to do is taste the baccalà, occasionally it is not completely desalted so if this is the case rinse it in cold running water for a few minutes to remove the excess salt. Chop the baccalà into small cubes and finely chop the parsley, chili and garlic. Heat a generous splash of olive oil in a non-stick pan and gently fry the garlic and chilli until soft, then add the parsley and baccalà. The baccalà will lose some liquid, once this has begun to dry out add the white wine and cook for a few more minutes until the alcohol has evaporated. Make sure there is still some liquid left in the pan. Meanwhile cook the pasta. A couple of minutes before the end of cooking time, drain, add to the frying pan and finish cooking in the sauce until al dente. Once the pasta is cooked turn off the heat and add the pecorino, stirring all the while, to thicken the sauce. Serve immediately.

The best aperitivo in Flaminio Flaminio, a neighbourhood only a stone’s throw from the city centre, is now home to a whole host of cocktail and aperitivo bars. You can take part in the ‘spritzmania’ or opt for a more traditional cocktail – there’s something for everyone. Food-wise you’ll find fresh fish, international cuisine, or even the finest cheese and charcuterie boards. We’ve selected five of the best bars for pre- or post-dinner, from new openings to old favourites. ENOTECA MOSTÒ Run by passionate and skilled sommelier Ciro Borriello, at Enoteca Mostò you’ll be advised on the perfect wine to suit your palate, with a brilliant selection of natural and French wines in particular. As for the food, there isn't a huge choice but what is on offer is fantastic quality. Aperitivo begins from 18.30 and you can choose a glass of either Franciacorta Brut Vezzoli (€7) or Particella 928 Cantina del Barone (€8) accompanied by a plate of tapas (€6) and artisan sausage. You can also order from the main menu and we highly recommend the desserts: millefeuille (€7) and white chocolate cheesecake with almond, mango and lime crumble (€7). Mon closed. APOTECA Facing on to Piazza Melozzo da Forlì, Apoteca is the perfect spot for an aperitivo pre-theatre or before heading to the stadium. There are seats at the bar where you can admire the large selection of craft beers. If you don’t fancy a beer there are also cocktails, mocktails and wine served by the glass. At aperitivo hour you can choose from a charcuterie (€10) or cheese board (€12), or even meat balls (€7), or the apotecaburger (€14). Apoteca serves cocktails both pre and post dinner. METROPOLITA One of the most recent bar openings in Flamminio, Metropolita is located right in front of the Ponte della Musica and is open from 18.00 until 02.00 (or until 17.00 on Sunday). You can enjoy either a cocktail or a glass of

wine accompanied by a selection of antipasti from the kitchen. The barmen serve both cocktails from all over the world, like the London Tequila (€11), as well as the usual classics (from €6-8). If you feel like something else to eat there’s also hummus served with pane carasau (Sardinian flat bread) (€6) or a platter of Italian and French cheeses (€18). The Metropolita can seat 65 people over its three floors. Open every day except Mondays. DILISCANDO This is the new fish restaurant in the Flaminio neighbourhood. The name, which means ‘filleting’, and the interiors create a seaside feel. Every day from 18.00 you can enjoy a glass of wine (from €5) and try some delicious fish dishes. On Thursdays the chef prepares five tasting plates to accompany five of the wines, and each week the selection is different. TREE BAR Located in the garden of Piazzale Manila, Tree Bar is a very popular place, especially with young people. Live music, competitions and the huge seating area outside make it a fun place to hang out. On Mondays there is an aperitivo buffet. You can also enjoy wine, beer or a cocktail with a cheese or meat board (€12 or €10) and then if you’re still peckish choose the dish of the day or from the main menu. We also highly recommend their homemade desserts (from €6-8) and their selection of spirits. Open daily from 18.30 to 01.30.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Apoteca, Piazza Melozzo da Forlì 15, tel. 3662511733. Metropolita, Piazza Gentile da Fabbriano 2, tel. 063240249. Diliscando, Viale del Vignola 7, tel. 0689131376. Tree bar, Via Flaminia 226, tel. 0632652754.

Indirizzi

Enoteca Mostò, Viale Pinturicchio 32, tel. 3922579616.

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified. Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 27, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

46 | May 2025 • Wanted in Rome

Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.com Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 Wanted in Rome • May 2025 | 49