Hidden USA

he Finger Lakes region of New York State is just a short

Tdrive from some of the North-East’s most popular metropolitan areas, such as New York City, Washington DC, Philadelphia and even Canada’s Toronto. But for those who visit any of its 14 counties, 11 lakes and countless picturesque small towns, it can often feel like you’re stepping into another world entirely.

What sets the region apart from the rest of New York State are not just its crashing waterfalls and lush forests that tumble down craggy rock faces, but the historic moments that occurred here down the years. From the dawn of the women’s suffrage movement in Seneca Falls to the anti-slavery efforts undertaken by those in the Underground Railroad and elsewhere, which helped so many slaves escape bondage, there is plenty to explore beyond leafy landscapes.

The region was home to the father of naval aviation, Glenn Curtiss, too, who was raised on the banks of Lake Keuka in Hammondsport. This was also where the first cooperative vineyard in the Finger Lakes was planted in 1860. Now the land is covered in wineries.

Food and drink is a big part of life here. The area has evolved into the USA’s premier craft cider-making region in recent years, while the villages scattering the lakes have long since embraced viticulture. Wine tours are an exhilarating way to both explore the region and taste some of the bounty it offers.

A great place to kick off a first-time visit, outside of the major cities, is Ithaca, known for its waterfalls, downtown walkability and its lively food and brewery scene. Stay at the Argos Inn (argosinn.com), a boutique hotel with a nostalgic in-house bar that is also just a few steps from downtown.

South-west of Ithaca, the town of Corning is also easy to navigate on foot, and it has a main street with lots of food and drink options, as well as an abundance of interesting museums to peruse. Alternatively, pay a visit to the small village of Aurora, which makes for a serene lakeside escape with plenty of historic homes to nose around. During the summer you can swim at Long Point State Park, fill up on treats at the farmers’ market or enjoy scenic drives along the Cayuga Wine Trail. Make your base at the Aurora Inn (innsofaurora.com), which has a nearby spa overlooking the lake.

Lastly, when deciding where to stay, especially in the more rural wine country, it’s important to remember that most major towns outside of the bigger cities are located at either the top or bottom of the lakes. Depending on your length of visit, it is best to navigate from one of these and stick to just a single area. It is important to keep in mind that seeing the entire region would take multiple visits, so don’t be worried if you can’t squeeze everything in. There’s always next time. ⊲

NEED TO KNOW

Getting there: Both Greater Rochester International Airport (ROC) and Syracuse Hancock International Airport (SYR) are well served by flights. They are in good-sized cities (Rochester and Syracuse, respectively) and most major airlines fly there. The region itself is best experienced by car, with the expectation that, because of the size of the lakes, the average travel time from one lakeside spot to another is going to be around a 40-minute drive. Both of the airports mentioned here are between 1.5 and 2 hours from the wine country region, which can also be explored via various trails. Where to stay: There are a variety of lodging options available across the area, including plenty of upscale stays with waterfront views, such as The Lake House on Canandaigua (lakehousecanandaigua.com) or Geneva on The Lake (genevaonthelake. com). Alternatively, if you prefer to wake up to pine-scented air, there’s glamping at Seneca Sol (senecasol.com) and Firelight Camps (firelightcamps.com), both of which are not far from Ithaca. Local tip: Reserve your wine tastings in advance and know that some wineries limit group sizes to six or eight. Also, note that while wineries close at 5pm, breweries stay open later, often hosting live music. Some lake and waterfall access points require a parking entry fee, so have cash handy. You can book a wine tour if you would rather not worry about driving. Experience Finger Lakes (experiencefingerlakes.com) are just one of many good local options available. Info: fingerlakes.org

HIGHLIGHTS

LETCHWORTH STATE PARK

The same glacial activity that helped carve the Finger Lakes over millions of years also served as architect to the massive gorges from which New York State’s most powerful waterfalls flow. Letchworth State Park’s dramatic scenery and stunning falls (over 50 of them) has not only been the inspiration for countless paintings, but also gifted it the nickname “the Grand Canyon of the East”. There are over 106km of trails to explore, including the Autism Nature Trail (autismnaturetrail.com), created specifically so that those with ASD and different levels of abilities can enjoy and explore this wild rocky landscape.

FINGER LAKES WINE COUNTRY

About 90% of New York State wines are produced in the Finger Lakes (fingerlakeswinecountry.com), with Riesling being its most popular varietal, though some respectable dry reds are starting to emerge. While there are wineries big and small scattered throughout the region, the largest concentration can be found around the Seneca, Keuka, and Cayuga lakes, each with its own feel, communities and activities. Herman J Wiemer Vineyard (wiemer.com) is among the most celebrated and hosts tastings of their Riesling and Chardonnay in an atmospheric barn setting on the western slope of Seneca Lake. Alternatively, Buttonwood Grove Winery (buttonwoodgrove.com), on Cayuga Lake, also makes for a scenic escape, combining vineyards views and tastings with cabin stays, fireside gatherings and concerts – do also try their Riesling pét-nat and dry rosé.

THE VILLAGE OF SKANEATELES

There are many quiet small towns and villages to explore around the region, but only Skaneateles is considered the “Jewel of The Finger Lakes”. Just a 30-minute drive from Syracuse, this charming village rewards with leafy streets lined with quaint shops and restaurants. The Mirbeau Inn and its world-class spa (mirbeau.com) makes for an indulgent stay, and the ease with which you can explore the nearby vineyards, ski slopes and farmers’ markets makes it a great spot to base yourself.

Down in the village

(clockwise from top) Perched at the top of its eponymous lake, the quiet village of Skaneateles has become a popular getaway for city folk from nearby Syracuse and rewards with plenty of boutique shops and artisanal treats; Taughannock Falls plunges 66m past rocky cliffs, making it one of the highest drops east of the Rockies; Letchworth State Park has a scenic rim drive that skirts the Genesee Gorge and has viewpoints along the way of its giant arch bridge – there are also some 106km of bracing walking trails if you want to go it on foot instead

Alamy; AWL Images; Shutterstock

THINGS TO DO

Find your artistic side

The Corning Museum of Glass (home.cmog. org) is one of the world’s finest glass museums, attracting artisans from near and far to study, create and collaborate. Set in the small city of Corning, it is home to the largest collection of art glass in the world, picking its way through over 3,500 years of glassmaking history. You can not only enjoy live demonstrations, but there is also the opportunity to create your own works of art and bring them back home.

Explore forest trails

Around 1,600km of marked trails make up the Finger Lakes Trail system (fingerlakestrail. org), which runs from the Pennsylvania-New York border in Allegany State Park to the Long Path in the Catskill Forest Preserve. Some 48 of these trails thread their way through the Finger Lakes National Forest, the only one of its kind in New York State. It lies deep in the heart of wine country, between Seneca and Cayuga lakes, and as well as walking its trails, visitors will find plenty to do, from camping and lounging by the lake waters to vineyard visits, birdwatching, horseback riding and winter snowshoeing.

Learn about Indigenous culture

There is a long list of cultural sites to explore in the Finger Lakes, but to really immerse yourself in the heritage and history of its peoples, you can’t miss visiting the Ganondagan State Historic Site (ganondagan.org). It pays tribute to the indigenous Seneca community that founded the region and flourished here over 350 years ago. It is also based on the original site of a 17th century Seneca town, with guided and self-guided trails and tours offering valuable insights into its past.

Hit the waters

Driving the Finger Lakes offers a good taste of the region, but it doesn’t beat taking in the views from the water. There are a number of different ways to cruise the lakes, from public tours to private charters. Discover Cayuga Lake (discovercayugalake.org) offers a good selection, whether opting for an eco-tour to learn more about the wild habitat that thrives in the region, or a sunset cruise to spy the dying light bouncing off the early-evening waters. Some boat trips include visits to the Ithaca Farmers’ Market (ithacamarket.com), which is packed with local producers and street-food vendors. It’s a great way to connect with the community and slip into the slower pace of life found here.