Florida Keys

THE FLORIDA KEYS OF MY IMAGINATION

The Florida Keys might be the road well taken, but its wild coral waters, mangrove-covered islands and fiery sunsets reveal a more natural side

Words Lyn Hughes

here’s a magical moment on ever y trip when I think: “This is it! This is the

Tplace I crossed the Earth for and it’s everything I imagined it to be.”

My first few days in the Florida Keys had been very enjoyable but I’d yet to have that moment. In Key Largo, I spent a couple of nights on a houseboat, getting up before sunrise to sup coffee on the upper deck while pelicans passed overhead. My first night had involved a meal of exceptional seafood while I marvelled at just how many of the silver-bearded diners around me resembled the writer Ernest

Hemingway. And on an eco-boat trip,

I had seen manatees and birdlife galore.

But that moment – the one when

I had to pinch myself and think, “Hey, I’m here, really here in the Florida

Keys” – didn’t arrive until I was driving the Overseas Highway across Seven Mile Bridge. This is one of the longest causeways in the world, yet just one of 42 bridges that link the 182km island chain. With aquamarine water shimmering on both sides, I found myself in wonder at the geography of the Keys and how being surrounded by so much ocean had defined life here and given it the unique flavour that is now its draw.

The Florida Keys has these moments that creep up on you.

Its bountiful waters once stocked the fisheries and fuelled the sporting exploits of the likes of Hemingway and others, but these days it is about celebrating what is here more than what you can take from it. I’d come in search of the islands’ natural side; one that can often be lost on first-timers. IN BOATS WE TRUST “You know the Overseas Highway? Well, think of this as the fish highway,” said Captain Brady as he pointed to the Northwest Channel on a map, explaining the route we were going to take. “We have dolphins year-round here because there is plenty of shallow

“I turned and saw warm water around the Keys, plus lots of food via the channel, too.”a grey shape crest It was a sunny but breezy morning, the ocean just metres and I was on-board SQUID, Key West’s from the boat. first electric-powered charter boat, for a dolphin-watching trip. There were “Dolphin!” I squealed” seven of us on the tour, plus the captain and Jaclyn, both marine biologists. The wind had curtailed plans to go out too far; instead we headed to the Key West National Wildlife Refuge. This was established by former US president Theodore “Teddy” Roosevelt in 1908, to protect a crucial habitat and breeding ground for birds, turtles and other wildlife. We motored along for an hour or so, rarely seeing another boat. Entering an area called the Pearl Basin, Captain Brady dropped our speed and shouted to keep an eye out for dolphins. I turned and almost immediately saw a grey shape crest the ocean just metres from the boat. “Dolphin!” I squealed. ⊲

Clear waters (left–right) Snorkelling around Key Largo, which is home to the first undersea park in the US, John Pennenkamp Coral Reef State Park, established in 1963; Captain Sam of KeyZ Charters is one of the Stewards of the Keys; an osprey makes its nest on a channel marker in Blackwater Sound, in sight of the Overseas Highway; (previous spread) the road connecting the islands was forever changed by the 1935 hurricane, which destroyed the old railroad and allowed the state to buy the land and build over the rail bed – it now extends for 182km

It was a mother and baby, and they were almost close enough to reach out and touch. “They are coastal Atlantic bottlenose dolphins, just like Flipper,” said Brady.

Jaclyn was busy taking photos, ready to upload to a database. She had been collecting data and studying these creatures for two years. “We’ve been able to identify 125 individuals just here in Key West,” she told me. “We note their dorsal fins and add the data to the Whale & Dolphin Tracker – an app that anyone can download. We use it to piece together the life stories of the dolphins we are watching every day. It’s kinda cool to get to know them on a personal level and tell people their stories.”

It turns out the Keys is a safe place for dolphins. “The population is not just stable but growing,” said Jaclyn. “There’s a lack of predators, such as sharks, and plenty of fish to eat, so it’s a paradise for them. They can stay their whole lives.”

A couple more appeared and seemed in a playful mood as they circled the boat. Brady explained: “We’re in a little bowl area, about ten football fields in size, and we’re over a kind of underwater hill. The dolphins are just checking out that slope. I thought we would see them fishing – they drive the fish to the shallow water, as they’re easy to catch there – but we have a mom and a baby here and they just seem to be curious about us. They know the boat.”

I expressed surprise that a dolphin could recognise boats. “Definitely,” he smiled. “In two ways: visually, when we’re close enough, and by our sound. This boat makes a unique noise, so they will have known it’s us. They’re very relaxed and haven’t changed their natural behaviour. That’s our goal. It’s a good sign that they feel so comfortable with us, especially moms and babies. That shows trust… It’s really special to see.” REEF ENCOUNTERS We eventually left the dolphins and carried on to a quiet spot. Those who wanted to snorkel donned wetsuits and slipped into the relatively shallow water. Below us, the sandy ocean floor was scattered “Several schools of with large sponges almost a metre grey snapper swam in breadth. Sheltering beneath them by, whereas the red- was an array of fish of different shapes and sizes. The most dazzling were and-black groupers the porkfish, coloured bright yellow hung out on their with black stripes. Several schools of grey snapper swam by, whereas the own, ignoring us.” red-and-black groupers hung out on their own, ignoring us. The weather conditions that day were not suitable for going to the Florida Reef, the world’s third-largest barrier reef system. It is 579km long and, along with the mangroves and remaining native forest, provides important protection to the Keys from storms, flooding and erosion. ⊲

However, like other coral reefs around the world, it faces threats ranging from climate change to pollution, to agricultural runoff, overfishing and damage from anchors and irresponsible snorkellers and divers. Chemicals in sunscreen can even harm corals. In Key Largo, I visited the Coral Restoration Foundation (CRF) to meet Roxane Boonstra, who filled me in on the scary statistics of just what had been lost.

The good news was that the CRF has a successful programme raising corals in nurseries. They grow 20 different species on “trees”, with each of them home to up to 60 corals. The foundation currently has eight nurseries but has plans for 45 in total. The corals are then planted on the reef by volunteers, with Roxane working with local dive operators on a programme that allows the public to get involved for a day.

Roxane was one of few local residents to have been designated a “Steward of the Keys”; she wouldn’t be the last I’d meet. In Islamorada, I joined another Steward, Captain Sam Zeher, one of the few female business owners here, on an eco-tour through the mangroves. We searched in vain for a crocodile that had been recently spotted; they are rare in North America but a small population does live here. We had more success with pelicans, boobies, egrets and an osprey, as well as several manatees. THE SHELL GAME While the future of the region’s coral remains in the balance, things are brighter for its turtle population, which has had

a resurgence over the last five decades. From the late 18th century onwards, the meat of green turtles was much in demand in Europe, as the prime ingredient of turtle soup. A lucrative industry grew in Key West, processing turtles kept in water-filled pens, called “kraals”, for export. Even when trade was past its peak, it continued into the 1970s until protection was afforded to local turtles under the Endangered Species Act. At the Turtle Hospital in Marathon, I met with manager Bette Zirkelbach, another Steward, who explained that I was standing in the only dedicated turtle hospital in the world. Upon my arrival, “The Florida Keys is the reception area had thronged with families checking in for its 90-minute home to five of the tour, of which it does several a day. world’s seven Such is the interest now in turtles that it gets over 100,000 visitors a year. species of sea turtle, The site was a motel and nightbut they face club before being bought by founder many dangers” Richie Moretti in the 1980s. He hadn’t intended to open a turtle hospital but fate led him down a different path. The Florida Keys is home to five of the world’s seven species of sea turtle, and they face many dangers here; they often end up getting hit by boats or entangled in nets, or swallow something indigestible, such as plastic bags. Bette also explained that green turtles can suffer from a condition called fibropapillomatosis, an aggressive herpeslike virus that causes tumours to grow. These can be treated with chemotherapy and surgically removed. Research is still being conducted but she pointed out that the condition is only found around developed coastlines. ⊲

The hospital had taken in 20 juvenile turtles from New England that were suffering from hypothermia and pneumonia. Bette took me to see some cuties hooked up to makeshift nebulisers; it was almost too adorable to describe. At the other end of the scale, size-wise, was the hospital’s latest arrival, Sheldon, a mature loggerhead turtle

“Look at the size of his head,” Bette pointed, “he’s in his prime. We think he could be 50 years old.” Sheldon had come in a few days earlier having had his leg caught in a crab-trap line, but it was not badly damaged, so he would soon be returned to the sea.

Bette’s passion for turtles shone through, and I asked her why she was so drawn to them: “They are one of the oldest species known to man; they’ve been around since dinosaurs walked the Earth – and they’re just really cool animals!” held my room, it struck me that the only soundtrack here was one of cicadas, calling into the night like a million clicking typewriters hammering out page after page.

THE SUN ALSO SETS

LITERARY PURSUITS

The next morning, the soundtrack had changed to crowing roosters. Descended from jungle fowl from Cuba and the Caribbean, the local chooks were originally brought here as food and for cock fighting. They now freely roam the town, weaving in and out of the traffic. Locals call them “gypsy chickens”. “This is the only rooster-free zone in town,” said a guide at Hemingway House, pointing to some of the 58 cats that lived there. They are supposedly all descended from a feline called Snow White that Ernest Hemingway was given when he lived here in the 1930s. She had six toes on each foot (known as a polydactyl), a genetic mutation that many ships’ cats once possessed and was considered good luck. Hemingway named Turtles were only one of several lucrative industries that Snow White’s progeny after famous people, and that tradition 19th-century Key West was known for. In the early 1800s, it’s carries on. A purring ginger tom called Buster Keaton curled said that the city was the wealthiest per capita in the United up on my lap as I took a quick break on a garden bench. States. However, its fortunes have waxed and waned since; now Hemingway spent nine years here in what is often considered tourism is by far the most important industry today. his most productive period, writing To Have and Have Not,

Indeed, arriving in Key West, it all seemed a bit too touristy at Islands in the Stream and a couple of well-known short stories. first, as I walked to Mallory Square for the daily celebration of He had lived here with his second wife, Pauline Pfeiffer, having sunset. Stalls were selling souvenirs and been drawn to Key West by the laidstreet performers were doing their thing back lifestyle and deep-sea fishing. All – it was like a cross between Covent Garden and Marrakech’s Djemaa El “As the schooner went well until he met the journalist who was to become his third wife, Fna. Then the evening turned cold turned and crossed the Martha Gellhorn, in Sloppy Joe’s. and windy, as a leaden grey cloud horizon, the clouds Hemingway House is arguably the completely obscured the sun. I would best known of Key West’s sights, but have to wait for my perfect sunset. cleared and the sky the island is still crammed with things

The disappointed crowd dispersed, changed colour to to see and do, from the “Little White many heading for the lively bars and restaurants of Greene and Duval a flame orange” House”, in which former president Harry S Truman used to take “workaStreets, the tourist hub. I stopped for tions”, to the fascinating Museum of a beer at Captain Tony’s Saloon, a Art & History. But there was one legendary spot that was the site of the original Sloppy Joe’s bar, quintessential Florida Keys experience that I was yet to have synonymous with Ernest Hemingway. A tree grows through its – seeing one of its legendary sunsets. interior, though only its trunk is visible. Stories abound that it The evening weather had been against me all week. My last was once used for hangings, and the bar is said to be haunted by chance was a private sunset sail, but the omens did not look a woman hanged for killing her husband and sons. Today, most good upon my arrival at the marina where a catamaran called drinkers are too busy perusing the ceiling, with its thousands Rogue Angel awaited me under a thick grey wall of cloud. of hanging bras, to notice if a Lady in Blue wafted by them. “You wait! Captain Tyler’s smile will bring the sun out,” was

This wasn’t the Key West of my imagination just yet. But, the bold claim of one of the directors of Blue Sail Charters. after strolling a few of blocks, I entered a more timeless world. Once into open water, Captain Tyler pulled up the sail and The streets of the old town were lined with picket fences, behind it felt exhilarating to follow the coast of Key West while sipping which stood pastel-coloured wooden houses with “gingerbread” on prosecco and nibbling on a variety of cheeses. We passed trims and louvre shutters. I wondered at their inhabitants over Mallory Square, where the crowds were gathered in hope of the years and the sights they had seen from their verandahs. seeing a sunset, and then turned away, rounding Sunset Key

I could see the appeal to writers and artists. Key West has and heading back to Stock Island. The only other vessel in sight been graced by literary titans such as Tennessee Williams, was a solitary schooner, the America 2, modelled on the winner Ernest Hemingway and the poet Robert Frost. Even today, it is of the first ever America’s Cup. As she turned and crossed the said that a disproportionate number of writers are based here. horizon, silhouetted against the skyline, the clouds miracu-

The streets were hushed as I reached my hotel, Winslow’s lously cleared, the sky changed colour to a flame orange ... and Bungalows, which consisted of a collection of historic houses it was one of the best sunsets I had ever seen. converted into guestrooms. When I located the building that Yes, the Florida Keys of my imagination really does exist. ⊲

At the end of the day… (left) Florida Keys sunsets are coveted – even 19th-century writer Mark Twain was said to have made the trip to see the sun sink over Mallory Square, which now fills with a nightly carnival. Some choose to watch from a bar, others head to the southernmost point of continental USA (its marker lists the distance to Cuba – just 90 miles!), but by boat is the only way to bag lonely waters and unobstructed views

THE TRIP

A similar itinerary from America As You Like It (020 8742 8299; americaasyoulikeit.com) costs from £2,579 per person, including return flights with Virgin Atlantic from London Heathrow to Miami, seven days fully inclusive car hire, two nights at the Mangrove Marina & Resort, Key Largo, three nights at Winslow’s Bungalows by Kimpton, Key West, and two nights at Tranquillity Bay Beach House Resort, Marathon. Based on travel in November 2022.

Vital statistics

County Seat: Key West Population: 82,874 (Monroe County) Time: GMT-5 (GMT-4 Mar–Nov) International Dialling Code: +1 Visas: A visa or ESTA visa waiver (£10.60; valid for two years) is required by British nationals for stays of up to 90 days. Money: US Dollars (US$), currently around $1.33 to the UK £.

When to go

November–March: Sunny and dry although you may still want to wear a wetsuit when snorkelling due to the temperature of the water. High season is from December onwards. April–June: Shoulder season; fewer visitors. July–October: Hot and humid although tempered by sea breezes. There is a chance of rain showers and occasional hurricanes. It’s low season, so there’s lower prices and more availability.

Health & safety

Check the UK FCDO guidelines for the most up to date information on travel and entry requirements. At the time of writing, only travellers with proof of full vaccination may enter the US; they do not need to quarantine on arrival. The Florida Keys has a relatively low crime rate, but take the usual common-sense precautions.

Getting there

Miami is the main entry point. Virgin Atlantic (virginatlantic.com) flies direct between London Heathrow and Miami, with return economy fares starting from around £401, including complimentary food, drink and in-flight entertainment. This fare is available for selected departures from May 2022 through to March 2023.

Getting around

Given the USA’s car culture, a rental car is the most flexible option, with all the usual brands found at the airport. Once out of Greater Miami and onto the Overseas Highway, driving is a breeze.

Alternatively, Flixbus (flixbus.com) is a new coach service that runs six days a week, with stops in Islamorada, Marathon and Key West, with additional stops in Key Largo and Big Pine Key planned for the future. The Keys Shuttle (keysshuttle.com) runs from Miami Airport and makes several stops on the way down. It can also be booked as a taxi service within the Keys. Once in Key West, it’s easy to explore on foot or two wheels.

Cycling is only allowed on the Overseas Highway if you make use of the paved 170km Overseas Heritage Trail, which runs parallel to the road (Route 1) in many places.

Accommodation

Mangrove Marina & Resort (mangrovemarina.com), Tavernier, offers “AquaVillas” (houseboats) equipped with a kitchenette, bathroom and complimentary high-speed wi-fi. Protected by the mangrove trees surrounding the marina, this basin is a natural “hurricane hole

and very tranquil. Houseboats from around £200pn (minimum two-night stay).

Marathon’s Tranquility Bay Beach House Resort (tranquilitybay.com) overlooks the sparkling waters of the Gulf of Mexico, has its own private beach, three pools and is next door to the Turtle Hospital. There is a choice of beautiful beach houses or smaller tropical garden guestrooms. A wide range of activities is offered, and its Butterfly Café serves excellent dinners. Rooms from £151pn.

Winslow’s Bungalows by Kimpton (kimptonkeywest.com), Key West, offers rooms in several historic buildings at the quiet end of the Old Town, and is within walking distance of Key West’s main sights. It also has daily complimentary continental breakfast, a bike share program and three pools. Doubles from £250pn.

Food & drink

Thanks to the Keys’ bountiful ocean, seafood lovers are in for a treat. Grouper is the most popular fish, while snapper and mahi mahi are ubiquitous. From October to May look out for stone crab and spiny lobster. But the most famous dish of all is key lime pie, available everywhere.

The Fish House (fishhouse.com), Key Largo, has plenty of fresh seafood, including lobster and stone crab, served in a friendly, casual (no wine list!) “Keys style” atmosphere.

Chef Michael’s (foodtotalkabout.com) in Islamorada serves a choice of less common “fish of the day” options, such as tilefish or hogfish, in a host of different preparations.

Hungry Tarpon at Robbie’s of Islamorada (robbies.com) overlooks a marina where you can spot opportunistic pelicans, tarpon fish and possibly manatees. It’s a busy spot.

Café Marquesa (marquesa.com), Key West, is a top-end restaurant offering contemporary American fine dining; it’s popular with discerning locals and visitors.

Matt’s Stock Island (perrykeywest.com) dishes up “American coastal comfort food” by the marina at Key West’s The Perry Hotel.

Blue Heaven (blueheavenkw.com), Key West, does decadent breakfasts. Lobster eggs benedict and key lime pie are served in the garden while roosters peck around your feet. It used to host Friday-night boxing matches refereed by Ernest Hemingway.

Further reading & information

www.fla-keys.co.uk – the official Florida Keys website is packed with useful info Miami & the Keys (Lonely Planet, 2021) – reliable travel guide to the area

FLORIDA KEYS HIGHLIGHTS

There be treasures

The archipelago of Dry Tortugas National Park has a rugged history filled with pirates and wreckage hunters preying on 17th-century Spanish galleons. When the US finally got their hands on it, after buying Florida from the Spanish in 1819, Fort Jefferson (pictured) was built and used to house Civil War deserters and prisoners. Today, visitors to one of the USA’s most remote national parks, 113km off Key West, arrive to hear tales of its colourful past, spot birds and turtles, and explore wild, coral-filled waters

1John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, Key Largo

The first underwater park in the USA. Take a glass-bottomed boat tour or go snorkelling, diving or kayaking. On the shore you can walk the designated nature trails. pennekamppark.com

2The Turtle Hospital, Marathon

Ninety-minute educational experiences provide a behindthe-scenes look at the hospital facilities and rehabilitation area, plus there’s an opportunity to feed the permanent residents. turtlehospital.org

3Coral Restoration Foundation, Key Largo

The CRFs one-day dive programs, run in conjunction with local operators, let you help plant sea coral. coralrestoration.org

4Eco tour with KeyZ Charters, Islamorada

Founded by Captain Samantha Zeher, a typical one-hour eco tour with KeyZ Charters guides visitors through narrow mangrove channels to experience the Keys’ natural wildlife. keyzcharters.com

5Dolphin Watch & Snorkel Tour with Honest Eco, Key West

Small group tours with marine biologists. Enjoy dolphin watching and snorkelling on an electricpowered boat. honesteco.org

6Sunset Sail with Blue Sail Charters

Excellent charter company offering sunset cruises, eco trips and multi-day charters to the Marquesas Keys and Dry Tortugas National Park. bluesailcharter.com

7Harry S. Truman Little White House, Key West

In 1946, this historic building first served as the winter White House for President Harry S Truman, and was later used by other presidents. trumanlittlewhitehouse.org

8The Key West Butterfly & Nature Conservatory

Stroll an exotic land of flowering plants, waterfalls, flamingos and thousands of fluttering butterflies. keywestbutterfly.com

9The Hemingway Home & Museum, Key West

Go early to avoid the queues, and do take one of the free guided tours. hemingwayhome.com

10 Dry Tortugas National Park

The US’s least accessible national park, 113km off Key West, can be reached by ferry, seaplane or charter. Visit for its 19th century fort, snorkelling and marine and bird life. Day trips and overnight camping generally need booking far in advance. nps.gov/drto

WANDERLUST

RECOMMENDS

Discover the Florida Keys – https://www.wanderlust.co.uk/ discover/florida-keys-travel/ Key Largo – The classic 1948 thriller, starring Humphry Bogart and Lauren Bacall, is known more for its tense plot than its scenery, but it hits the spot