30 minute read
Back on Track
NEW RAIL ROUTES FOR 2022
This year sees a bounty of new rail adventures emerge, along with the return of some old favourites. As travel restrictions drop off, it’s time to hit the tracks once more
Advertisement
DENVER–MOAB
Board the Rocky Mountaineer as it hits the Southwest USA
Since 1990, Rocky Mountaineer trains have wound between the lakes and summits of Alberta and British Columbia. They’ve become a Canadian icon, celebrated for the glass-domed observation cars that seem to beam in visions of another world. In August 2021 the company entered the US for the first time with the launch of its ‘Rockies to the Red Rocks’ route, between Denver and Moab; this year it will run its first full six-month schedule (April-October). It’s a wild two-day ride from the cold slab-granite and snowy tops of the Colorado mountains to the Mars-like landscapes of Utah, which are carved into arches and curves only a Surrealist painter could predict. Make a stop: Overnight stays at Denver, the mid-way resort town of Glenwood Springs and Salt Lake City (which can be added on) all appeal, but Moab is what truly raises the hairs on our necks, an ideal outdoorsy base from which to explore the buttes, mesas, whitewater and rock art of Canyonlands and Arches national parks. ⊲
LJUBLJANA–BUDAPEST
Enjoy the slow route through Austria
One of the more intriguing new lines to open in Europe is ÖBB’s service between Slovenian capital Ljubljana and Hungarian capital Budapest. What makes it unusual is that it’s actually longer than lines that already exist (journey time is just less than nine hours). The reason for this – and our delight – is that it takes what is very much the pretty way round, via Graz (Austria), dipping into Styria, a region of thick forests, sparkling pools, green valleys, rocky escarpments and hilltop castles. It’s a magical journey, with views along the Sava River and a route that weaves the foothills of the Southern Limestone Alps and beyond. Sometimes it just pays to take the slow route. Make a stop: Graz makes a fine halfway stopover. Admire the city’s grand and avantgarde architecture – from the bold and original Kunsthaus museum to the Baroque Eggenberg Palace – and enjoy the views from the fortress-topped Schlossberg.
ADELAIDE–BRISBANE
Finally ride The Great Southern across Australia
In December 2019, before lockdowns curtailed our plans, we were looking forward to the inaugural run of The Great Southern, Australia’s newest luxury expedition train, set to sit alongside The Ghan and the Indian Pacific in terms of excellent Australian rail adventures. However, less than four months later the country closed its borders. Two years on, Australia is finally open again, though The Great Southern’s short season (December–January) means we’ll have to wait until the end of the year to ride it – but what’s a few more months? Across three days the train connects the country’s east and south coasts, running between laid-back Brisbane, the beaches of Coffs Harbour, the museums and fine-dining of capital Canberra and green Adelaide (recently declared a National Park City), with rugged ranges in between. We reckon it will be worth the wait. Make a stop: Nights are spent on board the train, but of all the excursions, the highlight is surely the Grampians National Park, a wilderness of sandstone summits, rich in wildlife and walking trails. Around 200 rock-art sites scatter the park, some dating back 20,000 years.
From city streets to wild savannah (clockwise from far left) Slovenian capital Ljubljana is dominated by a hilltop castle that has overlooked the city for around 900 years; Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park has one of the world’s highest naturally occurring leopard populations, with an average of one animal per 2.5 sq km – roughly twice the density of leopard recorded in Kruger National Park; as it ploughs from Queensland to South Australia, The Great Southern covers a distance of 2,885km, while the average length of the train itself is more than 700m; (previous page) the Rocky Mountaineer hurtles through Ruby Canyon
ZIMBABWE–ANGOLA
Take a safari train across 3,100km of Southern Africa
Rovos Rail – a tour operator with its own train – is unlike any other sleeper experience. Yes, it’s plush, with Edwardian-style dining cars, formal costume de rigueur expected in the evenings and a wine list to savour, but that’s just window dressing. Where it goes is the clincher. Shorter safari routes in South Africa usually take a few days, but it’s the continent-spanning rail adventures that catch the eye, inching through wilderness you just wouldn’t see otherwise. New for 2022 is its Copper Trail journey, which rolls through Zimbabwe, Zambia, the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) and Angola in July. It takes 15 days, including side trips to an elephant sanctuary in Lusaka, historic copper mines in remote corners of the DRC, the Kafue River (for a boat trip) and thunderous Victoria Falls, as well as sundowners in the dining car each night. It’s truly wild, truly luxe rail. Make a stop: The stand-out is the three-day stopover in South Luangwa National Park, where game drives will likely reveal a profusion of life, from elephant herds and lolloping giraffes to stalking leopards and crashes of hippos basking in the Luangwa River. ⊲
AUCKLAND–WELLINGTON & PICTON–CHRISTCHURCH
See old New Zealand routes in new ways
There’s nothing new about New Zealand’s Northern Explorer (Auckland–Wellington) and Coastal Pacific (Picton–Christchurch) trains. They have long plied the rails of the North and South Islands respectively. Or at least they did until recently – the economic impact of COVID19 has seen their operator withdraw both these services. But the good news for travellers is that tentative plans have been announced to revive them in 2022 as new multi-day adventures. Slowly trundling the wine country, mountains and whalerich coast of the South Island or threading the length of the North past moody volcanic peaks and historic viaducts offers a Cliff’s Notes take on the country that few other experiences rival. Let’s hope they start again soon. Make a stop: There are so many places to choose from on both routes. But perhaps top pick is Kaikoura (South Island), a pit-stop on the old Coastal Pacific, where you have the chance to swim alongside wild fur seals and spy dolphins and sperm, blue and humpback whales playing in the waters offshore.
PARIS–MILAN
Find Renaissance art and mighty mountains on this France-Italy route
Launched at the end of 2021, the Trenitalia alternative to the old French SNCF route, which also connects Paris and Milan, is now in service. Use it in conjunction with the London–Paris Eurostar and you can journey from the English capital to Milan in a day (albeit not on one ticket). But far better to take your time. The route fords dizzying mountain country, with some enticing cultural stops en route. For instance, disembark at Lyon, capital of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, where you can see the Roman amphitheatre and Renaissance-era mansions scattering the Old Town. Or jump off at the Savoie commune of Modane, on the edge of Vanoise National Park. On the Italian side, make a pit-stop in Turin for art-nouveau cafes and mouthwatering markets, before arriving amid the galleries, shopping plazas and palazzos of Milan. Make a stop: Also launched recently is the Italo high-speed Genoa–Naples service, which runs the length of the country, via Milan. Genoa isn’t especially well connected by rail, so take the chance to stop here and enjoy the por t city’s frescoed cathedral and strong food heritage.
KUNMING–VIENTIANE
See China and Laos on one giant train journey
China has expanded its high-speed rail network at a lightning pace. Some 40,000km of high-speed track has materialised since 2008, half of it built in the past five years. It was only a matter of time before its ambition started connecting it with neighbours. Laos is first: a new 1,035km route linking Kunming, in China’s Yunnan Province, with Vientiane, the capital of Laos, opened to freight last December; when COVID-19 curbs end, the first passengers will be able to board. This will make it easy to flit between the hills, karst formations, rice terraces and rainforests of south-western China and the elegant colonial streets of Vientiane via some of South-East Asia’s lushest, most captivating countryside. Make a stop: The souther nmost reaches of Yunnan are often missed by travellers, who typically head north to pretty Lijiang and backpacker favourite Dali. But Xishuangbanna, home to the Dai minority, makes for a lush escape; here you can take guided treks across rainforest wilder that anything else you’ll see in China, swim under the crashing waters of Mandian falls and visit remote traditional villages.
Ravishing by rail (clockwise from far left) Kekeno (fur seals) are the most common seals in New Zealand, distinguishable by their visible external ear flaps and forward-rotating hind flippers; Turin’s Mole Antonelliana tower was completed in 1889 and now houses the National Museum of Cinema; Hanover’s New Town Hall is home to an unusual diagonal lift, which zips visitors up to the dome for views over the city and the Harz mountains; Xishuangbanna district is home to many Dai minority villages where you might see folk dances and water splashing (a traditional Dai blessing)
BRUSSELS–PRAGUE
Do Northern Europe in your sleep
This summer should see the launch of European Sleeper’s Brussels–Prague overnight train. It’s a real old-school Grand Tour, skipping between an array of handsome, historic cities. Obviously, as this is a night train, you’ll miss most of them. But should you choose to stretch the journey out over a few days, potential stops include classy Antwerp and canal-riddled Amsterdam, the half-timbered houses and elegant palace gardens of Hanover in Lower Saxony, the museums and nightlife of Berlin and the spa town of Bad Schandau. Waking up among the historic streets of Prague is the perfect finale, with the chance to stroll Charles Bridge beneath the stately Gothic spires of Prague Castle as the morning mists clear. Make a stop: This train, provisionally set to depart Brussels at around 7.30pm, links up neatly with the London–Brussels Eurostar. But don’t dash off – the Belgian capital is one of Europe’s more underrated cities. Allow time to wander around its gilded Grand-Place, the narrow streets of Lower Town, the ar t nouveau triumphs of architect Victor Hor ta and the magnificent Neoclassical Parc du Cinquantenaire. ⊲
MONTREUX–INTERLAKEN
Hop aboard Switzerland’s “impossible” train
The idea of linking Lake Geneva, Gstaad and the lakes of Thun and Brienz in a single train journey has been a dream since 1873. The only thing standing in the way was that it was impossible. The railway connecting Montreux and Interlaken comprises two different gauge sizes, so no one locomotive has been able to make the trip; instead, three different operators run what is known as the GoldenPass line, with passengers having to change at Interlaken and Zweisimmen. However, December 2022 sees the launch of the GoldenPass Express, a new service able to run on both standard and narrowgauge track. For the first time you’ll be able ride this scenic route in one seamless trip. Make a stop: It defeats the purpose to get off en route, so make the most of what lies at either end. Elegant Montreux, tucked between the Alps and Lake Geneva, bursts with literary and musical heritage and fine wine. Interlaken, in the Bernese Oberland, facing the Jungfrau, provides access to some of the country’s best hiking trails.
STOCKHOLM–HAMBURG
Link art, culture and water in Sweden and Germany
The launch of a Stockholm–Hamburg night train by Swedish rail network SJ this August promises much. Details were still hazy at the time of writing, but reports claim that it will run via Copenhagen, using the part-tunnel, part-bridge Øresund Line to cross the strait separating Malmo (Sweden) and the Danish capital. It’s one of the great rail crossings and a majestic sight to wake up to or, indeed, bid goodnight. Certainly, there’s plenty to explore at either end of this new route. Sweden’s capital, spread across a magical archipelago, offers outdoor activities as well as churches and palaces by the score, such as the UNESCO-listed Drottningholm. Hamburg, meanwhile, is not only laced with canals and the tendrils of the River Elbe but is filled with music and art venues. Together, they make for a cultured pairing and an intriguing new route. Make a stop: From Stockholm it’s easy to extend your rail adventure. Hop on a northbound night service from the capital to Kiruna to pick up the Arctic Circle Train; this service from Kiruna to the Norwegian coastal town of Narvik offers a chance to witness the midnight sun or the aurora from your seat, depending on the season.
Routes for all seasons (clockwise from far left) At 1,322m above sea level, the Harder Kulm lookout gazes over Interlaken to the iconic peaks of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau – a tantalising landscape for summer hikes; nearly 1,000 cherry trees have been planted across the grounds of Kumamoto Castle and in the adjacent parks, making it popular for spring-time hanami (blossom viewing); the Øresund bridge, which connects Sweden’s Malmo with Danish capital Copenhagen is a truly remarkable piece of engineering, which required the building of an underwater tunnel and artificial peninsula as well as a bridge accommodating road and rail
NAGASAKI–TAKEO-ONSEN/ FUKUOKA
Discover the south of Japan at speed
Japan’s first shinkansen (bullet train) was launched back in 1964, but the country is still being linked up at high speed to this day. The latest route – the Nishi Kyushu line – is being built deep in the west of Kyushu Island and is due to open this autumn, connecting the coastal city of Nagasaki to Takeo-Onsen, a steamy town whose thermal waters have drawn visitors for 1,300 years. You could combine it with a trip on Kyushu’s newest sightseeing train, 36+3, which ran its first full season (January–August) last year. Designed by the same team behind the Kyushu Seven Stars, the island’s uber-luxurious and extremely popular sleeper, the 36+3 offers five island-wide itineraries, including a route linking Nagasaki and Fukuoka (Hakata), via the Ariake Sea coast. Together, they’re the perfect combination of fast and slow. Make a stop: From Hakata you can take the 36+3 down to Kagoshima-Chuo, stopping in at Kumamoto. The city is known for its reconstructed hilltop castle and makes a cultured jumping-off point for discovering the volcanic hills around Aso-Kuju National Park. ⊲
AMSTERDAM–ZÜRICH
Wake up among the Swiss Alps
The rise of new sleeper train services – so long an endangered species – has been gathering apace in Europe in recent years, as travellers look for more carbon-friendly ways to explore. Last May, ÖBB launched a Nightjet train from Amsterdam (Netherlands) to Vienna (Austria); in December its latest Amsterdam–Zürich service began, ready for 2022. The newer route follows the countryside curves of the old Rhine Valley line, so as you blearily pull up the blinds in the morning, you should catch a glimpse of the sweeping hills and gorges of the Upper Middle Rhine – still one of Germany’s most wonderful natural sights. Once you’ve arrived in Zürich, the options are many and dramatic; for instance, hop on a train to Lucerne to explore the lake and connect to some of Europe’s most coveted mountain-rail adventures. Make a stop: The Amsterdam connection is a real boon for UK travellers. Easy access via the Eurostar lets you arrive early, store your luggage at Central Station and explore the canals, museums, gabled townhouses and cycleways of the Dutch capital before returning in the evening. It’s the perfect break within a break.
TASHKENT–KHIVA
Make full use Uzbekistan’s high-speed links
The extension of the Tashkent–Samarkand highspeed line to Khiva was completed in 2018. The following year, Uzbekistan introduced visa-free travel for UK visitors. But we barely had a chance to take advantage of either before COVID-19 restrictions took hold. Now, a decade after the first daily bullet-train services first began here, and with news of another major high-speed rail connection being mooted (Tashkent–Turkmenistan), 2022 seems like the year to finally see Uzbekistan by rail. In just two hours travellers can flit from the modern capital to the more architecturally toothsome Samarkand, where the elegant Registan Square and the blue tilework of the Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis await. Beyond lie Bukhara, Urgench and, the icing on the cake, the ancient city of Khiva, once a long road trip and now just a few hours away by rail. How times have changed. Make a stop: The Silk Road city of Bukhara might be small but it’s well worth an overnight stop. Explore the old fortress of the emir, admire the exquisitely carved Kalon Minaret, then haggle your hear t out in the old trading halls where Bukhara-style silk carpets are hard-won.
Go offbeat, go quicker (clockwise from top left) Khiva’s Itchan Kala (inner city) is packed with historic monuments, including the turquoise-tiled Kalta Minor Minaret and the extravagantly decorated Tash Khauli Palace; the Galician city of Ourense lies on the Via de la Plata, the camino route to Santiago that starts in Seville; now UNESCO-listed, Sheki was a key trade hub on the Silk Road and its exquisite architecture displays Safavid, Qadjar and Russian influences; arrive by train, explore by boat – Amsterdam has 165 canals, with 100km of waterways within the city limits
BAKU-GABALA
See Azerbaijan open up to high-speed travel
As Azerbaijan wrestles with moder nising its ancient railways – first laid by the Russian Empire in 1878 – new routes are opening up some of the country’s hardest-to-reach spots. Last year saw the arrival of a new Laki-Gabala connection, which became the final link in a three-hour route from capital Baku to Gabala, a city nestled snugly at the foot of the Greater Caucasus Mountains. It has become particularly popular with skiers in recent years, but there are plenty of hiking opportunities in summer. Nearby, you’ll discover the ruins of Old Gabala, the former capital of Caucasian Albania, a state that covered most of this region for more than a millennia. Also go there to visit traditional Udi villages, take a dip in thermal springs and go boating on the cr ystal-clear waters of Nohur Lake, which lies peacefully amid a serene backdrop of crumpled green hills. Make a stop: From Gabala it’s a 90-minute drive to Sheki, one of Azerbaijan’s most far-flung wonders. This UNESCO-listed city was once a vibrant Silk Road hub, and the legacy of those days is writ large in streets filled with the remains of exquisite palaces and caravanserai. ⊲
MADRID–SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA
Day-trip to the pilgrim city from the Spanish capital
For a region synonymous with slow travel – thanks to 1,000 years of pilgrims following the Way of St James – the arrival of a new high-speed rail link between Galicia and Madrid seems almost wrong. The 500km-odd journey from the capital to Spain’s quiet, lush north-west corner used to take seven hours by train; now it’s less than half that. The route is quite a mood change, as inner-city Madrid gives way to pine-forested mountain valleys scored with rivers before a fine finish in Santiago de Compostela. Here, narrow, atmospheric streets wrap a central cathedral whose Romanesque origins have been supplemented over the years with Gothic and Baroque flourishes. It remains one of the grandest sights in Spain as well as an important pilgrim spot. It might even inspire you to explore some sections of the Way of St James. Make a stop: Get off at Ourense, a pretty town on the banks of the Minho River with a historic centre and thermal springs. It’s also a jumping-off point for the Ribeira Sacra, a Biosphere Reserve dotted with medieval monasteries, vineyards and views over the 500m-deep Sil Canyon.
Revealing rail rides
(clockwise from this) Bordeaux’s UNESCO-listed Mirroir d’Eau (water mirror) reflects the 18thcentury Place de la Bourse; sample superb port in Porto; Copenhagen’s colourful Nyhavn canal
TAKE YOUR TIME ON THE TRACKS
3 slow and sustainable train journeys through Europe
Relax to the rhythm of the rails and take your time to discover some fascinating places on a rail journey linking a variety of European cities. We’ve teamed up with the rail experts at Inntravel to bring you three selfguided train journeys across the continent…
1FLAVOURS OF BILBAO,
SAN SEBASTIÁN & BORDEAUX
Spend your time browsing Bilbao’s Mercado de la Ribera, the largest indoor food market in Europe, and exploring San Sebastián’s Parte Vieja (Old Town), skipping from one pintxos (Basque-style tapas) bar to another, on a six-night rail trip with Inntravel. At each stop, self-guided city walking tours reveal lesser-known sites, such as the medieval suburb of Portugalete, near Bilbao, where you can cross the world’s oldest transporter bridge before walking the winding alleys of Getxo fishing village. In San Sebastián, ride the century-old funicular to the top of Monte Igueldo for views of the Belle Époque architecture, then head back to the train to finish in Bordeaux, France, home to some of the world’s finest wines and the chance to learn more about them at the Cité du Vin museum.
2NORDIC CITIES EXPLORER Visit three of northern Europe’s most colourful capitals by train and boat over seven nights. In Copenhagen, swap rails for pedals to cycle the Nyhavn canal and visit the city’s galleries. Next, ride the train across the Øresund Bridge and on to Stockholm where the medieval lanes of Gamla Stan and the world’s original open-air museum, the Skansen, await.
Finish your week in style by cruising to Helsinki to browse the boutiques of the Design District, sample local food in a bustling kauppahalli (market hall) and to admire the elegant Uspenski Cathedral, said to be the largest Orthodox church in Western Europe.
3CITIES, PALACES & WINE Inntravel’s ten-night Cities, Palaces & Wine tour unpicks historic Portugal. In Porto, make your way through a maze of museums and churches before crossing the river to the port wine lodges of Vila Nova de Gaia. Then bag a window seat on the train from Porto to Pinhão – one of Europe’s most scenic rail trips – to tour the old wineries of the Douro valley.
Next is the historic university city of Coimbra where pastel-hued houses jostle shoulders with Baroque palaces and churches. Afterwards, head to the hills of Sintra to see its magnificent Moorish castelo and the colourful Pena Palace. Finish on the steep streets of Lisbon, riding its yellow trams, marvelling at the ornate Jerónimos Monastery and gazing out from atop the 11th- century Castelo de São Jorge – the perfect finale.
THE RAIL EXPERTS
Inntravel was named the only Which? Recommended Provider for self-guided tours in 2021, and you can trust its expert team to sort everything from the rail timetables to well-located stays. Its holidays feature family-run hotels, offering an authentic experience that benefits the local economy. Using Inntravel’s detailed notes for selfguided city walking tours, you’ll see iconic sites as well as many lesserknown treasures, all at your own pace.
To find out more about Inntravel’s self-
guided journeys by train, visit inntravel. co.uk/wanderlust or call 01653 617092
to speak to their expert team.
Ticket to ride
Why not let someone else take care of the bookings, transfers and logistics of your next great rail escape?
LONDON TO ISTANBUL
If you had to point to one rail route that revolutionised UK travel in the late 20th century, it would be Eurostar. The freedom to zip across a continent from London is almost taken for granted these days. But not so with Explore’s new London2 Rail Adventures, four trips that set off from the British capital for Athens, Marrakech, the Basque Country and Istanbul. The latter takes full advantage of Europe’s fluid rail links, dipping into the lagoons of Venice and the wetlands and w i n e r i e s o f t h e B a l k a n s b e f o r e piling into the Turkish city for visits to the bustling Grand Bazaar and the sixth-centur y Hag ia Sophia.
COPENHAGEN, STOCKHOLM & HELSINKI
Taking it slow is the joy of Inntravel’s Nordic Cities Explorer, which combines train rides and an overnight boat trip to navigate between the capitals of Denmark, Sweden and Finland. Enjoy the views along the way and, once in each city, immerse yourself in the laid-back Nordic lifestyle. Wander Copenhagen’s colourful Nyhavn waterfront, browse the boutiques of Helsinki’s Design District and cruise around Stockholm’s many islands or stroll the medieval lanes of Gamla Stan, taking your time to explore. One of the highlights is riding the train across the Øresund Strait between Copenhagen and Malmo, first along an 8km-long bridge that spans part of the waterway before reaching a manmade island and plunging into a tunnel beneath the waves.
From £1,230pp for seven nights; inntravel.co.uk
HIJAZ RAILWAY
The Hijaz Railway was one of the last great engineering feats of the Ottomans, who wanted to establish a direct line between Istanbul and Mecca. However, during the Arab Revolt (1916-1918) it became a target for raids by TE Lawrence and the Bedouins; it closed a few years later, as the Ottoman Empire fell into decline. Corinthian Travel’s Saudi Arabia & the Hijaz Railway trip delves into this history, visiting the abandoned stations and derailed locomotives that lie along the route as well as the railway museum in Medina. You’ll also make use of Saudi Arabia’s new high-speed railways, taking in sites such as the Nabataean tombs of Hegra and the Tuwaiq escarpment where you can watch the sun set over the “Edge of the World”. From £4,980pp for ten days; corinthiantravel.co.uk ⊲
CALGARY TO VANCOUVER
The near-endless wildernesses of Canada were almost made to be seen from a railway carriage or boat deck – somehow these vantages make the vastness easier to comprehend. Canada As You Like It’s Western Canada Train & Ferry tour takes on this grand scenery in both ways. After hitting the road in the Rockies, exploring the ice fields and hot springs of Banff National Park, you’ll head west from Jasper by train, travelling over the mountains and through frontier territory dotted with old sawmills, forests and lakes. At Prince Rupert, a port rich in First Nations history, swap the train for the ferry, to sail slowly down the majestic Inside Passage, looking for whales and seabirds. Disembark at outdoorsy Port Hardy, where a flight to Vancouver awaits.
LONDON TO SPAIN & MOROCCO
On Great Rail Journeys’ Magnificent Morocco & Moorish Spain tour you’ll step onto a train in London and step off in some of Iberia and North Africa’s greatest cities. First stop is Barcelona, where relics of the Moors are few and far between but Gaudí’s Sagrada Familia and the old Gothic Quarter are ample compensation. In Seville, Mudéjar styles are far more evident in the exquisite arches and mosaics of the Alcázar, built atop a Moorish castle. Then, after a ferry ride across the Strait of Gibraltar, it’s onward by rail to the coastal cities of Casablanca and Rabat, inland to labyrinthine Fez, Imperial Meknes, the Roman ruins of Volubilis and bustling Marrakech, exploring medieval medinas en route, and finishing with the Berber in the High Atlas range.
From £3,495pp for 13 days; greatrail.com
LONDON TO LICHTENSTEIN, SAN MARINO, VATICAN & MONACO
Europe’s smaller nations are so easily overlooked, yet most of them pack in as much history and appeal as countries many times their size. Europe’s Tiny Countries by Rail trip with Discover the World puts this theory to the test as it departs London for the rock-top castle of Lichtenstein’s capital Vaduz, then meanders its way by rail to the world’s oldest surviving sovereign state, San Marino. From there it heads for the Renaissance wonders and frescoes of the Vatican City (Rome’s world within a world) before hitting the tracks one last time for glamorous Monaco and the flâneurs of the French Riviera – an extremely stylish finish.
From £2,198pp for 14 days; discover-the-world.com
LONDON TO LAKE GARDA
Citalia’s eight-day London to Garda by Rail trip browses some of Europe’s most cultured streets without an airport in sight, recreating an enlightening Grand Tour for the modern day. From London you’ll take the train to Paris, to overnight amid its boulevards, bistros and art galleries. Continue on, via Milan, to Venice, to amble alongside the canals, cross the Bridge of Sighs, visit the ornate Doge’s Palace and pause for aperitifs and people-watching in the piazzas. Then take the fast train to Desenzano del Garda for a few days by the lake: lap up views of the pastel-hued mansions, gorge on gelato and take a boat across to the rugged north shore. To get home, take a quick train to Verona – or, better, add on a few days in this romantic city.
From 1,679pp for eight days; citalia.com
Rails in the wild
(clockwise from this) The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad offers an authentic ride through history; the Broadmoor Manitou and Pikes Peak Cog Railway reaches 4,302m; go back to the 1880s aboard the Georgetown Loop Railroad; it’s not unusual to find snow on the tracks on the Leadville Colorado & Southern Railroad in late summer; an abandoned mine near Cripple Creek; the Rocky Mountaineer passing through Eagle County
TIME TRAVEL ON THE TRACKS
6 HISTORIC AND SCENIC RAIL ROUTES IN COLORADO
Since they were first built in the 19th century to connect gold and silver mining camps, Colorado’s railroads are the best – and sometimes only – way to get an intimate brush with the state’s cloud-baiting mountains, sweeping river valleys and forest wildernesses. Here are six grand train journeys to hop aboard in Colorado…
1Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad
You probably thought the golden age of US rail travel was consigned to the history books, or sepia-toned photographs, but the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad proves it’s still very much alive. This is a true time-frozen train journey, where you’ll not only follow the same 72.5km route that the miners, settlers and cowboys rode in the 1880s, but also travel on the same train they did: a vintage steam locomotive. As much as the route was chosen for its practicality, the scenery outside must have had miners glued to the windows, as the track hugs craggy peaks and chugs through pine-carpeted valleys and the raw backcountry of San Juan National Forest. Even back then, its passengers must have thought they’d struck gold long before they had reached the mines.
Reopening in 2021 after a huge renovation, the Cog Railway is a must-ride, and is now faster, safer and more comfortable than ever before. The views from atop Pikes Peak (4,302m) of the Southern Front Range once inspired poet Katharine Lee Bates to pen the patriotic anthem America the Beautiful. But for years it was only accessible on muleback. A more civilised ascent was needed, and in 1891 the Broadmoor Manitou and Pikes Peak Cog Railway was born. Today, it remains the highest cog railway in the world, taking an hour to make the 14.5km journey from Manitou Springs, and the train’s route through canyons and wild forests to the summit of Pikes Peak is as captivating as ever.
3Georgetown Loop Railroad
They broke the mould when they built the Georgetown Loop Railroad. Several remarkable feats of engineering were required during its construction, with its hairpin turns, a 30-degree horseshoe curve and four bridges – including
the cloud-grazing Devil’s Gate High Bridge – all testing the technology of its era. This narrowgauge railway, measuring less than a metre, promptly became one of Colorado’s earliest tourist attractions when it opened in 1884. It still serves up widescreen views of Clear Creek Canyon’s pine-wrapped peaks as it chugs between the mining towns of Georgetown and Silver Plume. It also proves that not all scenic train rides have to be epic journeys. At just 10km long, taking 75 minutes to complete, this blink-and-you’ll-miss-it trip is a quick but satisfying dip into Colorado’s wilderness, with the chance to explore an historic silver mine before the return ride.
4Leadville Colorado & Southern Railroad
Ever since gold was discovered here in 1860, Leadville has had a rich prospecting history, and during the 19th century it became a happy hunting ground for miners of gold, silver and lead. It was during this boom that a railroad was built to shuttle the precious metals across Colorado. The Leadville, Colorado & Southern Railroad now traces that line – and it’s an eye-popping journey at that. Trains climb the jade-hued wilds of San Isabel National Forest, where vistas unfold to reveal the Rocky Mountains, including Colorado’s two highest peaks, Elbert and Massive. Along the way, hear tales of Leadville’s eclectic former residents, including gambler Doc Holliday and rags-toriches-to-rags-again couple Horace and Baby Doe Tabor. Ride the railroad in summer when the wildflowers are in bloom, or autumn when the trees turn fiery shades of orange and gold.
5Cripple Creek & Victor Narrow Gauge Railroad
This locomotive’s sky-blue paintwork only serves to tantalise the wide-open horizons you’ll spy as you pick your way through Colorado’s backcountry on the Cripple Creek & Victor Narrow Gauge Railroad. This steam train transports you back to the State’s goldrush pomp, taking you on a coal-fired chug through steep forested hills and passing several long-abandoned mines, including the camp complex of Anaconda. The open-sided carriages mean the 45-minute journey along the historic railroad is as much a multi-sensory experience as it is a trip through time, so be prepared to feel the pine-scented breeze on your face, smell the steam plumes and maybe even hear the growl of a black bear. It’s a wild journey into the untamed heart of Colorado.
6Rocky Mountaineer Rockies to the Red Rocks
The Rocky Mountaineer is more readily known for exploring the snow-dusted ruggedness of British Columbia, but since 2021, it has also rolled through the rust-red mountainscapes between Denver and Moab (and vice versa) on a two-day route. Wind through canyons carved by the Colorado River, keeping your eyes peeled for mountain lions, deer and eagles among other wildlife, before pit-stopping in Glenwood Springs for the night. Pick up where you left off the next day, tucking into a hearty breakfast as you soak up a patchwork of ochrehued cliffs, the crimson-coloured Ruby Canyon and the vertiginous peaks of mounts Garfield (2,062m) and Peale (the highest point of the La Sal Mountains at 3,879m), all brought to life with legendary tales of the Wild West. As you creep towards Moab, the startling sandstone formations of Arches National Park awaits, peering above the burnt-orange landscape – a definitive vista of the American South-West served up in the perfect package.
Whichever railroad you decide to ride, you’re in for a scenic and slow journey like no other.
