taylor richards & conger

SPRING F A S H I O NS

G O L F IN IRE L A N D

J O H NN Y D EPP

w o r ld ’ s b e s t t e q u i la

Years of Style

spring/summer 2016

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contents s/s 2016

features on the move | 36 We know you’re going places. And you’ll look great getting there in the latest clothing from Taylor Richards & Conger.

4 x 4 | 78 Meet four talented chefs from “the four corners of the world” as they present four distinctive dishes.

TUSCAN TREASURE | 86 On a hill overlooking Florence lies an exquisitely restored 45-room villa—Il Salviatino.

IN SEARCH OF SHANGHAI | 88 The top metropolis in the world’s busiest land sparkles with history, culture and nightlife.

everyday chic

From work to weekends, you’ll be ready for anything in these stunning new styles.

On him: Canali sportcoat, Ledbury sport shirt, Barbara Blank tie, Simonnot-Godard pocket square, PT01 trousers, Leyva belt, Dominique umbrella On her: Fabiana Filippi blouse and drawstring pants, Marie Laure Chamorel earrings, Soixante Neuf Jewels bracelet, Peserico scarf, Fabiana Filippi purse

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On the cover:

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contents s/s 2016

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departments MEMO | 12 Our passion for great style.

THE Trc GUIDE | 17 Get to know Giangi Napoli...try on Samuelsohn Made-to-Measure...family tradition at Ruggiero...jewelry by Marie Laure Chamorel...Ask Mr. Etiquette... and more!

man of style | 22 For more than a decade, this attorney has been dedicated to TRC. THE LEADING MAN

Johnny depp | 24 He’s a rascal with style who thinks outside the box on screen and in his personal presentation too.

ESSENTIALS for men | 26 Stock up on must-have basics for spring and summer.

ON THE RUN | 32 This season’s offerings from Canali make the case for elegant nonchalance.

THE MUSE

helen mirren | 52 On stage and screen—and in her fashion choices—this great dame has been a trailblazing force for decades.

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ESSENTIALS for women | 54 Spring style selections: your checklist for the very best.

woman of style | 60 This executive coach and author says her shopping experiences at TRC W are like going to the spa.

The SPORTING LIFE | 76 Golf has a Gaelic accent at Lahinch on Ireland’s windy west coast.

Product guide | 94 Your guide to the TRC experience.

music | 96 Reinterpreting traditional styles and borrowing freely from the past, these artists are making music that sounds bang up to date.

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SPIRITS | 49

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In honor of National Tequila Day we serve up a half-dozen of the top tequilas in the world.

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memo

All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is sure. —Mark Twain

dress comfortably Soft, simple, while writing sophisticated... her next book. three ordinary Attorney Frank adjectives capture Emory loves the entire essence custom suits for of dressing this his role as partner season at at Hunton & TRC W and Williams, but still Taylor Richards & wants to look “put Conger. It’s one together” when of easy elegance out on the town achieved by way TRC partners (left to right): Richard Pattison, Glen Taylor, with his wife and of a soft, neutral Scott Morgan, Chris Estridge and Lyn Conger grown sons. Sales palette, which exec Doug Gravely in turn evokes a helps him accomplish both. sense of timeless style. Oh, you’ll spot sneak peek In “On the Run” we take a peek the occasional pop of color throughout behind the fashion curtain with creative our shops and on these pages, but that’s consultant Andrea Pompilio’s take just icing on the cake, so to speak. The on Canali, a TRC favorite that pays ultimate find this season is clothing “relentlessly meticulous attention to that works for you, that enhances your fine tailoring and detail.” Learn about overall look and ultimately makes you the ultimate Irish golf experience in look better. And after all, isn’t that what Michael Hiller’s article, “Emerald your clothing is supposed to do? To Step it up! Greens,” about Lahinch, a 124 yearmake you feel better and add a little p. 54 old course on the island’s windy west bounce to your step? For a sense of coast. If your travel plans take you a bit farther what we have in store for you this season, check out around the globe, be sure to peruse “In Search of “Everyday Chic,” our women’s layout on page 62 Shanghai” for writer Everett Potter’s experience in and “On the Move,” our picks for men on page 36. this ultra-modern city with ancient roots. We proudly introduce as this season’s Man and As we celebrate 30 years of style this year at Woman of Style two accomplished Charlotteans Taylor Richards & Conger, we look forward to with a penchant for hard work and a definite continuing the traditions we’re noted for while sense of style. Executive coach Joan Wright embracing the technologies of a new era. We thank prefers versatile, high-quality clothing that she you for your continued support, and invite you to can wear in multiple ways, allowing her to dress professionally while focusing on her clients and to stay tuned as we excitedly turn this next page.

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Richard Pattison and the TRC Crew

6907 phillips place court charlotte, north carolina 28210 704.366.9092 (TRC w: 704.366.2905) www.trcstyle.com Store Hours Monday to friday: 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. saturday: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Editorial Directors Glen Taylor, richard Pattison, lyn conger Editor Mark Dowden Art Director stephen M. vitarbo Executive Editor rita guarna Managing Editor carol bialkowski Senior Editor timothy kelley Associate Editor Darius Amos Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Liz Donovan, Michael Hiller, Everett Potter Contributing Photographers Thien La, David Ramsey Publishing staff Publisher Shae Marcus

Associate Publisher Amy B. Weiss National Brand Manager Monica Delli Santi Senior Account Executive Carol Xanthos Director of Production and Circulation Christine Hamel Advertising Services Manager jacquelynn fischer Senior Art Director, Agency Services Kijoo Kim Production/Art Assistant Alanna Giannantonio Accounting agnes alves, megan frank Published by Chairman Carroll V. Dowden President & CEO Mark Dowden Senior Vice Presidents sHAE MARCUS, Carl Olsen Vice Presidents Nigel Edelshain, Rita guarna, christine hamel taylor richards & conger Magazine is published twice a year by Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale,NJ 07645, in association with Trc. Copyright © 2016 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, Trc, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.782.5730; email mark.dowden@wainscotmedia.com. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, Trc, Circulation Department, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.573.5541; email christine.hamel@wainscotmedia.com. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com.

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the

trc guide Your Made-toMeasure pleasure

Clothing with a noble spirit

Giangi Napoli has been around in one form or another since the 16th century, and to have thrived that long in the tumultuous tailoring hub that is Naples, Italy, is clearly to have achieved “survival of the fittest.” It’s in this context that the company has mastered the creation of sportswear, shirts and accessories. With the vision and swagger to say, “Even a sport shirt must have a noble spirit,” the company has met and exceeded the standards of a very demanding audience, time and time again. Take its spring/summer 2016 collection: It’s characterized by freshness and innovation; the colors reflect shades of navy and are flanked by beige and “cut” by bright orange, green, strawberry and cobalt. Another example: Giangi Napoli has merged denim with the tradition of Neapolitan tailoring to create a unique and innovative shirt that’s as comfortable as it is distinctive. Dressed in Giangi, you’ll be fit to survive in style.

Samuelsohn has been going strong since 1923, when master tailor Lesser Samuelsohn founded the firm to produce the finest men’s clothing. But its heyday may be today, judged by Made-To-Measure garments that are among the highest-quality in North America. The brand’s designers and merchandisers choose fabrics from Europe’s leading mills, including the finest wools from Italy, as well as beautiful silks, camel hairs, cashmeres and exotic fibers. They offer fully basted canvas, hand-sewn armholes and one-piece collars, making the Samuelsohn garment a masterpiece of precision. Soon your TRC salesperson will be able to enter your measurements and send them electronically to Samuelsohn, where each garment will be individually measured, cut and sewn. (Some 155 separate operations are part of making a jacket, and an average of eight-and-a-half hours of hands-on effort go into its creation.) Whether you’re extra-short, extra-tall, or somewhere in between, you’ll be fitted to a T. Before long, you’ll be able to see yourself in one of the line’s Made-to-Measure garments before you order it. Samuelsohn is working on a technology to allow you to glimpse your custom garment on you via a computer avatar image. So you’ll have the best of both worlds: customization and off-the-rack visual validation. This venerable company, in fact, thrives on innovations— such as water- and wrinkle-resistant technology, interior pocket systems and form-recognition fibers. Never mind that it’s nearing a triple-digit birthday; Samuelsohn is all about what’s new.

The looks of love

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spring/summer 2016

We know that fashion photography sells a look, but it’s also an art that tells a story. Hal Rubenstein shares many of those stories in The Looks of Love: 50 Moments in Fashion That Inspired Romance (Harper Collins, $40), a collection of the most powerful and romantic moments in fashion history, from the 1930s to today. A founding editor of InStyle magazine, Rubenstein showcases pivotal events in television and film, on the runway and the red carpet, and in social media that have changed the way we see love, fashion, passion, romance, marriage and beauty. Who can forget those catfights between shoulder pad–clad Krystle and Alexis Carrington on Dynasty, Gene Kelly’s classic sportswear in Singing in the Rain and Angelina Jolie’s Versace wedding veil embroidered with her children’s drawings? Those images and more (a total of 225 full-color and black-and-white photographs), as well as insight from the designers, are all found on the pages of this gorgeous tome. Rubenstein’s selections perfectly illustrate the role that clothes play in the world of love and passion. It’s truly a collection for all—for the fashionista, the photographer and the romantic.

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the trc guide

Ask Mr. Etiquette

Aim for the top

“The apparel oft proclaims the man,” said Shakespeare’s Polonius, and that goes double for women, as the people at Bagutta well know. Bagutta’s parent company was started in Milan back in 1939, and through the years, the founding family has built a tradition of delivering only high-quality apparel made from the finest materials. It walks the tightrope, keeping a balance between elegance, sophisticated simplicity and purity of form. And as with a great high-wire act, the results can be spectacular. Bagutta features more than a thousand models of shirts, blouses, knitwear, trousers, dresses and skirts, but the origin and tradition of the brand are firmly anchored to the women’s classic white blouse. Created with great care and commitment, it can guide you to the top of the corporate ladder.

Scott Morgan explains how to sail through life without giving offense. A friend invited me to a party I couldn’t attend. Sometime later, when I bumped into her in the grocery store, she was sore at me—not because I didn’t show up at the party, but because I never told her I wasn’t coming. Really? — Confused in Charlotte Yes, really. When an invitation says RSVP, you must respond. Accept or decline; don’t say “maybe,” and don’t be silent. And don’t give your answer at the last minute, or you’ll mess up the host’s planning. Stick to your word. The worst mistake of all is to say you’ll attend and then not show. This costs the host money and prevents your spot from being filled by some lonely heart. It may also cost you a friendship.

Neapolitan quality

When your nonno (grandfather) founded the company in 1920, then left it to your papa who passed it on to you, and your name is on every garment, it’s both business and personal. Vincenzo Di Ruggiero’s company, Ruggiero, continues the family’s Neapolitan tradition, producing garments sewn by hand using time-tested methods of tailoring. Every day at Ruggiero, artisans work to create collections that combine tradition and innovation to satisfy the tastes of the most discriminating customer. Ruggiero’s sport shirt collection, for example, combines the finest classic fabrics with modern designs that provide the ultimate in comfort and style. When you’re impeccably dressed and confident of your appearance in any situation, you know you can handle anything, business or personal.

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Paris meets Bali

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Jewelry is very personal; if you connect with a designer who truly captures the style you seek, it’s like magic. For you, that artist could be Marie Laure Chamorel. After graduating from the School of Arts, École Duperré, in Paris and working as a fashion designer, Chamorel founded her namesake jewelry collection in 2006. She creates long necklaces and cuffs, often blending embroidery and antique beads layered in sheer fabrics. Her tastes have been shaped by Paris, but during a trip to the island of Bali she was influenced by artisans there, so she incorporated subtle elements of tribal design into her collection. Voilà! The Luxume collection was born. With Secret Box pendants, solid silver and silk charm bracelets, and long, dangling earrings dipped in gold and ruthenium, the collection is a blend of Eastern craftsmanship with Western design and techniques. Chamorel’s creations are the best of both worlds, but their magic is unworldly.

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the trc guide Mix it up in 2016

Color authority Pantone has “doubled down” this year, introducing for the first time twin “it” colors. The blending of powdery blue “Serenity” and “Rose Quartz,” a soft pink, has been chosen as the Color(s) of the Year. Traditionally used to symbolize male and female, this year’s selections transcend gender, as the cooler tranquil blue and the warmer rose tone have become true unisex colors. Rose Quartz conveys “compassion and a sense of composure,” says Pantone, while Serenity brings “feelings of respite and relaxation.” Together, the pastel pairing creates a sense of calm. Expect the soft hues to pop up in every 2016 collection for spring and summer—you’ll find them as solid tones as well as accent colors in sportcoats and jackets, ties and pocket squares, and polos and dress shirts. Wear both shades with confidence. These colors make a statement: They say you have style.

A focus on sports

‘Love that Ledbury shirt!’

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She may say that if she’s a connoisseur. More likely she’ll simply laud your appearance. Because this detail-oriented line aspires not to call attention to itself, but to make you look great. Ledbury was born after two Pauls from the American South—Paul Trible and Paul Watson—graduated from Oxford in finance right when Lehman Brothers collapsed in 2008. Figuring their future lay in another field, they decided to learn all they could about shirt making, and apprenticed with world-renowned London shirt maker Robert Emmett. “Be the best, make the best, and the rest will follow,” their mentor said—and they took his advice. They started a company, offering online ordering when that was still a rarity at the high end. Today Ledbury selects fabrics from Europe’s finest mills in a process that—combined with subtle innovations like a lower second button—creates a shirt that’s truly best in class. The brand’s collars have a unique canvassed interlining that keeps them standing up even under a sweater or sportcoat. Its poplin, cotton/linen and chambray are cool (literally and figuratively). The attitude? Sharp and prepared; not so much timely as timeless. And the Pauls have expanded Ledbury from shirts to a full line of quality menswear. On your next visit to TRC, check it out.

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There’s much more drama in sports than the thrill of victory and the agony of defeat, and Marc Aspland captures a lot of it in The Art of Sports Photography (Prestel, $49.95). In this gorgeous book Aspland, chief sports photographer at The Times in London for more than 25 years, shares 100plus rarely seen images from his personal collection. Prominent figures such as David Beckham, Usain Bolt, Roger Federer and Mike Tyson adorn the pages in exciting action shots and penetrating portraits that tell a dramatic story. Iconic moments from some of the world’s most important sporting events—FIFA World Cup, Wimbledon, the Tour de France, the Olympics—are also featured, alongside images that simply show the joy sports brings to people around the globe. See, for example, page 58, where three young siblings play soccer in South Africa. The goalkeeper leaps through the air to deflect a shot while his brother and sister act as human goalposts. Whether you’re a sports fan, a photography enthusiast or simply someone who appreciates striking imagery, you’ll be captivated by Aspland’s remarkable work.

the art of crafts

trunk shows Trunk shows at TRC and TRC W give you the opportunity to meet representatives and purchase items from some of your favorite brands. Join us! April 1–2: Eleventy April 6–7: Luciano Barbera April 8–9: Perle by Lola April 14–15: Nettleton shoes with artisan maker Tony Slinger, master pen maker David Lee APRIL 21: “Art Meets Fashion... with a Heart” charitable event to benefit HeartBright Foundation APRIL 28–29: Brunello Cucinelli MAY 2–14, Coppley “Your Graduate’s First Suit” event

If you order a beer in any respectable bar in America, the malted beverage you’re offered will likely have a name like “Mephistopheles Stout” or “Dead Guy Ale.” Chances are good it will have been brewed not in big steel vats in St. Louis but in small batches two towns over. Freestyle American craft beers made by small, independently owned breweries are the rage all across the U.S. You already know the fab four, but here are some obscure facts about each that you might not know: Lager Whoever coined the phrase “pop open a cold one” was probably drinking a lager, a name derived from the German word “lagern” meaning “to store.” Lagers are both processed and stored at low temperatures before they’re sold. Try Sierra Nevada’s Nooner Pilsner—chilled, of course. Pale Ale Something borrowed, something brewed. One of the most popular craft beer varieties in the U.S. today, pales actually date back to early-1700s England. Back then, malts were roasted with coke (the fuel derived from coal, not the beverage). For a great American pale ale, pop open a Deschutes Brewery’s Mirror Pond Pale Ale and enjoy! Amber Call it the pursuit of hoppiness. Once synonymous with pale ale, amber made the jump to the next level when brewers in the early 1900s began to add more hops, a flowery and flavorful preservative, to their recipes. For a burst of flavor, be sure to try Tröegs Nugget Nectar. Stout You may feel full with this heavy brew, but you’re not drinking a day’s worth of calories. The average stout contains just one more calorie per ounce than most mainstream light beers. So go ahead and have another. Give Firestone Walker Brewing’s Velvet Merlin Oatmeal Stout a try.

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man of style

Frank Emory

Partner, Hunton & Williams Past chair, Charlotte Chamber of Commerce

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My outfits have always fit into three basic groups: clothes to wear when cutting the grass or washing the car, suits for work and then everything in between. About 15 years ago, TRC introduced me to something new for that third group. I had always worn jeans and golf shirts, but the guys showed me a more polished style, something dressier but still casual. Now, I’m wearing sportcoats and trousers, mostly Brunello Cucinelli, for my ‘everything in between’ clothing. This brand is a step above business casual but not quite shirt-and-tie. It’s a look that I love. And there’s nothing better than the fit and feel of a custom suit. As an attorney, I want to look respectable and present myself well, so I wear one to the office every day. My salesman, Doug, knows what’s appropriate for me to wear. There have been times when I’ve picked something out and he’s asked, “Are you sure you want to get that?” Then he’ll work his magic and I wind up looking great. Doug and the guys at TRC know my sizes and my taste. One of them will call me if something comes in that I should see, which can be really dangerous because I’ll take it home and probably keep it! But that’s good personalized customer service. Shopping at TRC has become a family affair. My wife shops at TRC W, and my two sons are the next generation of TRC customers. That makes me happy because I want my sons, who are in their 20s, to appreciate how to dress well and look like grown men. That’s why I keep going back, and that’s why I know my sons will keep going back, too.

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the leading man

Rascal with style Actor Johnny Depp likes to ignore the rules and lose himself completely in a role. This abandon is reflected in his personal presentation too. By Timothy Kelley

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above. And even when it’s theoretically a bit too much, he’ll somehow look great. On occasion, Depp’s film roles provide inspiration for his sartorial choices—consciously or not. When he turned up at the recent premiere for the movie Black Mass wearing a high-decibel, peach-colored suit, people wondered if he’d taken the role of gangster Whitey Bulger too much to heart. But he has also incorporated a pirate motif suggested by his costume as Captain Jack Sparrow, the character he’s played in the popular Pirates of the Caribbean series since 2003. “There’s only one man who can look red carpet-ready in a pirate kilt, caftan, handkerchief and cowboy hat, worn all at the same time and topped off with a gold chain or eleven,” wrote Details magazine not long ago. “And that man is Johnny Depp.” Like any true original, Depp is an exciting, unpredictable amalgam of influences. And he’s always worth watching.

There’s a bit of the rocker in film star Johnny Depp, who played guitar in garage bands before he ever memorized lines from a script. But there’s also a soulful intensity—seen in this hatted, necklaced, bespectacled and tattooed Depp of 2013—that makes him a potent performer in demanding movie roles.

spring/summer 2016

f attitude is all you’ve got, watch out. But if you’ve got attitude plus integrity and tons of talent, let the world watch out. That’s the way it is with Johnny Depp. This handsome, sometimes feisty actor first caught our eye in the ’80s Fox police show 21 Jump Street. Since then he’s ruffled feathers from time to time—and worn them too. As an actor he’s known for going deep, for being less concerned with box office than with thinking— and playing—outside the proverbial box. And he’s similarly intense about what he wears. “There’s something that’s authentic about Johnny, and you can see it in his eyes,” said Council of Fashion Designers of America President Diane von Furstenberg in 2012, when the group made Depp the first male recipient of its Fashion Icon Award. “He’s nice and naughty.” Depp’s affinity for accessories is well known. He’ll sport a hat, a scarf, a necklace, a bracelet, a bandana, purple sunglasses or maybe all of the

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essentials for men

best of the best Must-have pieces from our spring/summer collections.

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MASSIMO BIZZOCCHI printed silk + cotton neckties $195

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essentials for men KITON SPORTCOAT hand-sewn by master tailors in Naples, cashmere/ silk/linen $7,195

DAVID LEE WRITING INSTRUMENTS hand-crafted pens of exotic woods $250–$495

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BILLY REID ‘WYNN’ SHORTS (left to right) mahogany, lagoon blue, stone, shadow grey $125 each

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ANDREA ZORI SNEAKERS (left to right) indigo nubuck lace-ups $395 taupe nubuck slip-ons $350 rust nubuck lace-ups $395

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essentials for men

KAREN HEMPHILL SPORT LINKS machined stainless cuff links with assorted inserts $165 for links + 2 pairs of inserts, additional inserts $20/pair

SPORT BELTS (top to bottom) LEYVA vintage leather with pewter buckle $125 ORCIANI scored calfskin $185 MARTIN DINGMAN laser cut $185 ORCIANI chocolate sueded calf $175 ORCIANI ‘Anasazi’ calfskin $185

BRACELETS (left to right, top to bottom) TATEOSSIAN chocolate leather double-wrap $350 TATEOSSIAN thin leather triple-wrap in luggage $250 ELEVENTY carnelian beads with pewter $85 TATEOSSIAN thin leather triple-wrap in red $250 TATEOSSIAN washed woven leather in indigo $450

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COLOGNES (left to right) TOM FORD Black Orchid $225 LENEL $40 JOHN VARVATOS Dark Rebel $130 JOHN VARVATOS Original $100 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Forte $95

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on the run

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Spring/Summer 2016:

canali

With luxurious textures and smart silhouettes, this season’s offerings make the case for elegant nonchalance.

A

spring/summer 2016

child’s first glimpse into a kaleidoscope—like the first time he spins and makes himself dizzy—can be a mind-expanding moment of discovery. “I still remember the sense of wonder I felt,” says Milan-based designer Andrea Pompilio, now heading into his third year as creative consultant for Canali. That’s why he showed different-sized slow-mo videos within a fragmented kaleidoscope image as a backdrop at a recent Fashion Week as his models strode across the catwalk to show off the line’s spring/summer 2016 offerings for men. That way, people could appreciate the overall impact of each jacket, sportcoat, suit or other garment while also seeing Canali’s relentlessly meticulous attention to fine tailoring and detail. Indeed, this family company has been a synonym for tailor-made Italian luxury since it was launched in 1934. Today it boasts ultramodern manufacturing facilities and some 1,800 employees worldwide, but it remains the essence of what makes “Made in Italy” a cherished label. For Canali, the values of wearability and comfort are always in harmony with the ideals of top-quality materials and precise craftsmanship. The Canali man? He’s a creature of kaleidoscopically changing moods, as the images at left suggest. “He’s a free spirit, audacious and unconventional, who plays with a casual elegance rich in details and opulent textile fabrics,” Pompilio has said. There’s always room for whimsy, but never for the haphazard. And a constant emphasis on innovation keeps the brand’s vision fresh, as it surely is for this season.

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On the Move We know you’re going places. And you’ll look great getting there in the latest clothing from Taylor Richards & Conger. photography by THIEN LA styling by MADISON HASLAM & DOUG GRAVELY makeup by JENNY LE

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hair by MALLORI SMITH

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spirits

Artisanal agave In honor of National Tequila Day, July 24, we serve up a half-dozen of the top tequilas in the world. Salud! By Virginie Boone

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here’s one drink with an eponymous anthem all its own: tequila. Recorded by the Champs in 1958—a time when this liquor was barely available in the U.S.—the sax-driven instrumental with the random yelps of “tequila!” seeped into brain cells as powerfully as a stiff drink. Back then Jose Cuervo was just about the only brand known. How things have changed!

Tequila Ley .925 Ultra Premium Extra Añejo Pasión Azteca It’s the bottle, not the tequila inside, that drives the price of Ley .925. The Diamond Sterling Bottle (or La Ley del Diamante), which boasts 4,000 diamonds set in a five-pound platinum bottle designed by Mexican artist Fernando Altamirano, fetches $3.5 million. A more reasonable option offered by the distiller, Hacienda La Capilla: the $225,000 version pictured, which is handcrafted in gold and pure platinum. Only 33 bottles were made, and each comes encased in a leather box with a series of pictures of the original Pasión Azteca by Mexican painter Alejandro Gomez Oropeza.

Gran Patrón Platinum Silver Tequila Among the producer’s higher-end offerings, triple-distilled and aged in oak to become both smooth and full-bodied, this is a remarkably citrus-tinged drink, with bursts of fresh agave and black pepper. Each bottle is crafted from crystal and hand-numbered, cradled in an elegant black case. It is a sultry sipping tequila priced at $195.

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Partida Elegante Extra Añejo Gran Reserva The top of Partida’s line, priced at $350 a bottle and limited in production, Elegante is aged a minimum of 40 months in American oak. Complex and velvety, it combines brooding layers of black pepper, toasted oak and dark chocolate around a persistence of almond, caramel, vanilla and coffee. It even suggests the undeniable goodness of maple butter and bourbon. Handcrafted, with each bottle numbered, it comes with a crystal decanter stopper and a sterling silver charm (called the Partida Tequila Spirit Bird) around the bottle’s neck. It makes an impressive gift.

Now there’s no drink that’s hotter; nearly 14 million cases of tequila were sold nationally in 2014, and sales keep climbing at an average yearly rate of 5.6 percent. Some of that growth has been powered by the priciest bottles—pure artisanal versions with price tags upwards of $300. Tequila is made from agave azul tequilana Weber, or blue agave, a Mexican plant with ties to the lily family that can take from eight to 10

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spirits

years to mature. (Mezcal, on the other hand, can be made from more than 30 varieties of agave, including blue agave.) Just as bubbly must come from the Champagne region of France to officially be called Champagne, tequila must be produced in specific areas of Mexico. The spiky succulent is grown primarily in Jalisco, but the official tequila region extends into parts of four adjoining states. To make tequila, the pineapple-shaped piñas (hearts) of the agave plant are harvested by hand with a machete-like knife, cleaned and cut into pieces, then slowly baked, a process that extracts the sweet agave juice, converting its starches into sugars. The piñas are then mashed to separate the juice from the pulp, and the juice is mixed with yeast and fermented into alcohol. Water is used to cut the distillate to about 80 proof. Classifications have to do with how long the tequila is aged. Blanco or white tequila isn’t aged at all; reposado (which means “restful”) spends at least two months in oak; añejo (Spanish for “mature”) is wood-aged for a year or more; and extra añejo (a new classification added in 2006) is barrel-aged for more than three years. Since blanco never touches oak, it

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Rey Sol Extra-Aged Añejo Double-distilled and then aged six years in French oak barrels by Tequila San Matías de Jalisco, this dark-hued tequila in a smiling-face bottle (designed by Mexican artist Sergio Bustamante) carries a $250 price tag. The aging lends a smoothness that’s deliciously sublime on the palate, with a taste of chocolate and hazelnut. It’s hearty enough to stand up to red meat—or serve it as an accompaniment to dessert and coffee.

delivers the purest notes of agave, while añejo features deeper, woodier, tannic notes layered over the agave. All of the varieties have a place in mixology—or can be sipped straight. For a long while, the only brands available in the U.S. were adulterated “mixto” tequilas, which could contain up to 49 percent non-agave sugars—the kind more likely to give you a nasty headache the next day. (Remember those tequila-fueled nights in college? You were probably drinking mixto.) In the 1950s, singer and actor Bing Crosby and his buddy Phil Harris, both of whom knew their way around a tequila bottle, started their own import company specifically to bring in Herradura, a 100 percent blue agave tequila they discovered on a trip to Mexico. It would be the only “pure” tequila available north of that nation for the next few decades, positioned as a sipping tequila rather than a cocktail ingredient. Read about Herradura’s extra añejo at right below—along with five other standout tequilas on these pages. They are all, of course, made with 100 percent blue agave.

Casamigos Reposado Yes, this is George Clooney’s tequila, a partnership with friends Rande Gerber and Mike Meldman. More importantly, it’s a damn fine, small-batch, entirely legit tequila, made by a master distiller in Jalisco. The Casamigos team slow-cooks its piñas for three days and gives it an extra slow fermentation as well, looking to further capture the purity and intrigue of the plant. It’s then aged in American oak. The reposado ($50) is a caramel-laden and smoothly textured quaff that will go down easy after dinner, on the rocks, finishing with a hit of cinnamon stick that lingers on the tongue. No salt or lime required.

Herradura Selección Suprema Extra Añejo This caramel-colored concoction ($350) comes entirely from the Casa Herradura estate in Jalisco, the piñas cooked for 26 hours in stone and brick ovens. This is when the plants become dark orange in color and give off an intensely sweet aroma and flavor. After fermentation, the tequila is aged in Kentucky bourbon barrels for four years. Upon release it becomes a celebration of vanilla, crème caramel and apple pie, with additional seasonings of citrus and allspice. Enjoy over ice.

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Douglas, City Chat, painting on wood, 60” x 60”

1522 East Fourth St. Charlotte, NC 28204 704.333.8235 Mon-Fri 10-4, Sat 10-3 bob@picturehousegallery.com www.picturehousegallery.com

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the muse

Great dame On stage and screen, actress Helen Mirren has been a trailblazing force for decades. No wonder we’re wowed by everything she does—or wears. By Lydia Keaton

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each time. She’ll turn up in a leather jacket and funky gown, or go conventional—diamonds and beaded gowns with plunging necklines. No stranger to haute couture, she’s worn garments by Badgley Mischka, Elie Saab and Escada. Mirren can be playful. She went for shock and awe in 1997 by donning a feathered hat she called her “bird’s nest” to pick up her Golden Globe for Losing Chase—and again a few years later when she dyed her hair pink. And she’s been spotted on the New York subway in a fluffy grey coat and long purple gloves. Crimson lipstick is one fashion choice; another is the Native American tattoo on her left hand, a symbol meaning “equal but opposite.” And Mirren has allowed unretouched photos at her age because, well, it’s OK to be real. Her secret? Knowing what rocks her body and being comfortable in her skin. It’s fitting that in 2003 the actual Queen Elizabeth officially made her a dame. Indeed, there’s nothing like her.

Clockwise from top left: Actress Helen Mirren sports shimmering Chopard pearls at the Royal Opera House for the 2007 British Academy of Film and Television Arts Awards. She’s a sweet, sassy ingenue afloat in 1969. Forty years later she’s clad in white at the U.K. premiere of the political thriller State of Play , in which she played a savvy newspaper editor. In 1979 she appears in a corset to promote the film Caligula. That film, she told an interviewer, was the only one in which having to do a nude scene didn’t frighten her. “Everyone was naked in that,” she said.

spring/summer 2016

all any other actress “show business royalty” and it’s a dazzling compliment. Say that about Britain’s Helen Mirren, 70, and it’s like “of course!” She’s played queens on screen six times, and she’s the only actress to have won awards for portraying both Elizabeths—the Virgin Queen of Shakespeare’s time (in TV’s Elizabeth I) and the long-serving monarch of today (in the 2006 film The Queen). Born Helen Lydia Mironoff in London, Mirren has the kind of talent that makes any role a crowning achievement. But in private life she’s more quirky than queenly. On one movie set, she says herself, she was “a pain in the ass.” She’s admitted to past cocaine use and to a fondness for going to nude beaches. When she does wear clothes, though, people notice. We’re talking confident here—and unpredictable. Mirren wore the same elegant black floral Dolce & Gabbana midi dress on five separate red-carpet occasions, making a splash

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essentials for women

must haves Spring/summer style selections: your checklist for the very best.

| trcstyle.com

SPRING FOOTWEAR (top to bottom) CASTAÑER ‘Belinda’ natural canvas with rope and rubber soles $195 CASTAÑER ‘Kim’ natural canvas with rope and rubber soles $125 CALAXINI ‘Nubuck Rojo’ in red $130 CALAXINI ‘Vecchio Texas’ in navy $150

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essentials for women

LINEN SPORT SHIRTS assorted shirts by GIANGI NAPOLI $250 and HARTFORD $195

FRESHWATER PEARLS PERLE by LOLA hand-crafted double-strand necklace of leather and freshwater pearls $225

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SPRING FLING BRUNELLO CUCINELLI silk blend dress in cream with black grosgrain tie $2,575

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essentials for women

SPORT SHORTS G1 washed cotton shorts in sky blue, white, China pink and navy $125

WOVEN HANDBAGS MASSIMO PALOMBA woven leather cross-body handbags $495–$550

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SCENTS OF THE SEASON VOYAGE et CIE luxuriously fragrant natural soy candles and hand lotions $50–$80

LEATHER FOR SPRING (clockwise from top) ELEVENTY supple nubuck top $1,225 TRANSIT laser-cut olive suede tank with knit back $475 TRANSIT pleated fringe top with front snaps $495 PESERICO soft natural suede open-front long vest $555

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woman of style

joan o. wright Executive coach, author and public speaker

I’ve been shopping at TRC W for more than eight years now, and I just love the experience. It’s like going to a spa. The clothes are beautiful and elegant, and the sales reps help me feel stylish without any hassle. Take Kristin, for example. She’s good at helping me realize the different ways I can wear an outfit. I purchased a three-quarter-length duster coat that I thought I would wear only for work, but she showed me how to wear it for a fun Friday night out as well by pairing it with jeans and a dangly strand of pearls. She also visited my home to help me arrange my closet for the spring and summer. She’s very sensitive to my personal style and helps me find clothes that are flattering to my body and appropriate for my age. When I am working, my appearance is important. I want to look purposeful, feminine and professional. One inspiration is Mika Brzezinski from MSNBC’s Morning Joe. She has a style that fits her and has become part of her “brand.” But I also want to feel comfortable in my clothes. I don’t shop for specific brands, but I like clothes that are classic, crisp and made of organic materials. The garments I buy at TRC W are what I call “investment clothes”—pieces I can wear in different ways to get the most out of them. I’m not interested in having a closet stuffed with clothes; I prefer a few versatile, high-quality items.

| trcstyle.com

Joan O. Wright, M.S.W., M.C.C., recently published her second book, SOULinks: Pursuing Multi-Generational Significance, which is available on Amazon.

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everyday chic

From work to weekends, you’ll be ready for anything in these stunning new styles. photography by THIEN LA

styling by MADISON HASLAM & DOUG GRAVELY makeup by JENNY LE

hair by MALLORI SMITH

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new old C U S T O M

H O M E S

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the sporting life

emerald greens

Golf has a Gaelic accent at Lahinch on Ireland’s windy west coast. Just don’t let that medieval castle ruin your game! By Michael Hiller

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he world has plenty of good golf courses—usually big, sweeping swaths of land that hug coastlines, hike up rocky slopes, pierce clouds and creep through timber. But there aren’t a lot of great ones, the kind that grab you from the first hole, squeeze you in the middle and draw you in so deep you can’t imagine playing anywhere better. Lahinch is one of them. Lahinch Golf Club, a 124-year-old golf course on the southwest coast of Ireland, is among the world’s finest. And you don’t go to Lahinch to gamble in a casino, dine in the Michelin-star restaurant or lie on a sandy beach (even though it’s one of Ireland’s foremost surfing locations). You go hoping to find that quintessential Irish golf experience that swirls in the back of your mind: emerald green grasses, salty ocean spray and heavy clouds cracking open with drenching rains that soak deep into your bones and can only be warmed by a peat fire and old whiskey. Standing on the third tee box of the Old Course at Lahinch Golf Club

recently, the churning Atlantic over my left shoulder and the Number 2 green to my right, I found it easy to pretend that golf originated here, in Ireland, rather than in Scotland, a few hundred miles east across the Irish Sea. A 30 mile-anhour rainstorm whipped in off the ocean, first slapping my ball off its wooden tee, then batting the tee shot into knee-deep rough. I popped the ball back to the fairway on my second shot, where it bounced between uneven patches of turf and soil as if the course were a pachinko machine. I saved par with a punch shot to the left edge of the green, allowing the wind to nudge the ball close to the hole for a tap-in. The rain stopped when my foursome reached the par-5 fourth hole, a narrow fairway that threads to a green tucked directly behind a 35-foot-tall sand dune known as Klondyke Hill. A burly man stood atop the dune, directing traffic. When he waved his red flag, I hit. My approach shot had to fly over the dune then land softly on the other side. “Sorry, lad,” the flag man called to me as I hiked to the

green. “The wind got the best of it.” The par-3 fifth hole is no less of a challenge: a 154-yard blind shot to a sunken green surrounded by yet more tall dunes. “There’s an old Irish saying about golf,” says the innkeeper of the Vaughan Lodge, a popular hotel near the golf course. “It says, ‘There’s no links without the sea, and no golf without the wind.’ And no one knew this better than Old Tom Morris.” Morris, of course, was the original designer of the Old Course at Lahinch (he didn’t take all the credit— he said Lahinch was the finest natural links course he’d ever seen) and also of another classic: the Jubilee Course at St. Andrews in Scotland. By the time my group walked off the 18th hole, we were humbled, sodden, exhausted—yet eager to play it again. But that would have to wait because Lahinch is more than a one-horse town. Across the street from the Old Course lies the Castle Course, a shorter, flatter 18-hole sibling punctuated by the ruins of a 14thcentury castle. And we played that next.

Clockwise from top: The single remaining wall of Dough Castle (1306) provides a dramatic backdrop to the seventh hole on Lahinch’s Castle Course. Famous for golf since the 1890s, Lahinch also has become a popular international surfing destination. Goats have roamed across the links since the early 1900s and continue to be a source of amusement to visitors. Stunningly beautiful scenery is an added bonus. A traditional heavy-on-the-protein Irish breakfast is required before hitting the links. Consider yourself lucky if you get this close. The shorter Castle Course can serve as a warmup for its bigger sibling, the Old Course, across the road.

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44 x4 x4

Meet four talented chefs from “the four corners of the world” as they present four distinctive dishes. These culinary offerings cross time zones, national boundaries and cooking’s conventional wisdom. Taste them and see!

| trcstyle.com

By Liz Donovan

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Chef Magnus Nilsson Fäviken Magasinet, Fäviken, Sweden

Aged Rib-Eye with onion purée Ingredients n 6 Tbs. unsalted butter, divided n 2 medium onions, very thinly sliced n ¼ cup low-salt chicken stock n 1 Tb. buttermilk n Kosher salt n 1 Tb. vegetable oil

n 1 28-oz. rib-eye steak (about 2 inches thick), at room temperature for 1 hour n Coarse sea salt n Assorted soft herb sprigs (such as tarragon, flat-leaf parsley and chervil)

directions Heat 2 tablespoons butter in a 12-inch heavy skillet over mediumlow heat. Add onions and cook, stirring constantly, until translucent (do not brown), 10–12 minutes. Add stock and ¾ cup water. Bring to a simmer, reduce heat to low, cover and continue to simmer until onions are falling apart, about 20 minutes. Uncover and stir until onions are almost dry (do not brown), about 5 minutes. Transfer onions to a blender. Add buttermilk and 1 tablespoon water. Purée until smooth. Season with kosher salt. Preheat oven to 350ºF. Arrange a wire rack inside a rimmed baking sheet. Melt 2 tablespoons butter with oil in a large castiron skillet or large heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Season steak generously with kosher salt. Cook until a deep brown crust forms, 3–4 minutes per side and 1–2 minutes on edges. Place on prepared rack. Roast until a thermometer inserted into steak registers 115ºF. (Steak will carry over to medium-rare.) Let rest for 30 minutes.

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etting a seat at The Mind of a Chef star Magnus Nilsson’s restaurant takes a bit of effort. The highly acclaimed Fäviken Magasinet is located in an 18th-century barn on 24,000 acres of hunting grounds in northern Sweden, only 200 miles south of the Arctic Circle. And it’s not just the journey that makes dining here difficult: The small space can accommodate only 12 guests a night, so you can imagine the wait list. But, critics say, it’s worth it. Nilsson’s contemporary interpretation of Scandinavian cuisine is both theatrical and avant-garde, focusing on local ingredients, including fish caught by the man himself. Last summer, Nilsson surprised his fans when he bought a campervan and turned it into a hot dog stand, which he runs out of “places that seem like fun.”

spring/summer 2016

Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat; cook until butter browns, about 2 minutes. Add steak and cook for 30 seconds per side, allowing steak to absorb butter. Cut steak into 4 slices. Place 1 steak slice on each plate and sprinkle with sea salt. Spoon warm onion purée alongside. Scatter herbs over purée.

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Chef Martin Benn Sepia Restaurant, Sydney, Australia

Prawn and Buckwheat Risotto

with grain mustard and tarragon Ingredients n 180g raw buckwheat n 900g green (raw) prawns n 60ml olive oil n 30g French shallots, finely chopped n 1½ tsp. finely chopped garlic n 1½ tsp. thyme leaves

n 450ml hot prawn stock n 3 tsp. chopped tarragon n 60g unsalted butter n 30g grain mustard n 30g mascarpone cheese n Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

directions Cook the buckwheat in boiling water for 8 minutes. Drain and set aside. Clean the prawns by removing the heads and peeling off the shells. Devein the prawns by cutting down the back of each and scraping the black vein out with a small knife. Dice the prawn meat and set aside.

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artin Benn somehow managed to make it through almost two decades as a relatively unknown chef in Australia. In 2009, he opened Sepia, and his artfully prepared and playful Japanese-inspired seafood dishes became the little secret of the people lucky enough to visit the new restaurant. Last year his cookbook, Sepia: The Cuisine of Martin Benn, caught the attention of celebrity chef Eric Ripert, who invited Benn to cook on his television show Avec Eric. Since the show aired, Benn has earned fame in the culinary world. His French technique and experience in Japanese cuisine allows him to take full advantage of fresh Australian seafood, which he serves in an Art Deco-inspired setting that is as light and unpretentious as the food enjoyed there.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot, garlic and thyme, and sauté until softened and transparent. Add the buckwheat and stir to combine well. Add all of the stock and cook until the buckwheat is tender. Add the prawn meat and stir well to combine. Cook for 1 minute, then remove from the heat. Add the butter, mustard, mascarpone and tarragon. Season with salt and pepper and stir to combine. Spoon into a bowl and serve immediately.

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Privately owned and operated, Lucky Clays Farm embodies the rustic beauty of North Carolina’s Central Piedmont. Our spacious location of over 450 acres, with versatile indoor and outdoor settings, provides a unique destination for your

Where Business & Nature Meet

next private business function or corporate retreat. Our state-of-the-art facilities offer an experience unlike any other.

For more information, or to book your next corporate event, please contact us at 1-855-858-LUCK (5825) or visit our website at luckyclaysfarm.com

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Chef Vicky Lau Tate Dining Room, Hong Kong, China

Shrimp and Lemongrass Consommé Ingredients FOR CONSOMMÉ n 500g fresh raw shrimp with shells, washed and peeled n ½ stalk lemongrass n 3g ginger n 1 tomato n 1 clove garlic n 1g Kampot peppercorns n ½ bird’s eye chili

n 350ml distilled water n 5g fish sauce FOR BOTAN EBI n 8 pieces Botan Ebi shrimp, peeled and deveined n 2g chives n 1 lime, zested n 30g caviar n 10g sea urchin

directions For Consommé: In a blender, purée all the ingredients except fish sauce until smooth. Transfer mixture to a heavy-bottom stock pot set over medium heat. Stir constantly until it starts to simmer, then stop stirring. Simmer for 45 minutes— watch closely so that it does not come to a boil. Take the pot off the heat and strain mixture through a fine cheesecloth. Add fish sauce to finish.

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nly in her mid-30s, Vicky Lau has achieved success most chefs only dream of in their lifetimes. In 2015 she was named Veuve Clicquot Asia’s Best Female Chef, and her Hong Kong restaurant, Tate Dining Room and Bar, earned a Michelin star the first year it opened. Her menus are designed to be “edible stories” with each dish—or chapter— adding another layer of complexity to the meal. Likewise, Lau’s career is a collection of vignettes: Her journey to Japan inspired her focus on matcha and other Japanese flavors, and her background in graphic design is evident in her artistically presented dishes, including most famously, a dessert crafted to resemble a Zen garden.

For Botan Ebi: Rinse shrimp thoroughly in ice water. Pat dry and cut into small pieces. Gently mix with chives and lime zest. Place a ring mold in the center of a bowl and fill with a spoonful of the shrimp. Layer a small teaspoon of caviar on top and remove the mold slowly. Garnish the top with a sea urchin sliver. Slowly pour the consommé, filling the sides of the bowl. Serve immediately.

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Chef Gabriela Cámara Cala, San Francisco, United States

Ceviche Contramar-Style Ingredients n 6 oz. white fish (such as rock cod), cut into 1-inch cubes n 5g celery, thinly sliced n 1/ 3 cup lime juice n ½ scant tsp. freshly ground black pepper n 1 scant tsp. sea salt n 10g pickled red onions (see recipe below)

n 5g serrano chile, seeds removed and minced n 5g cilantro leaves, chopped n 15g manzano chiles, seeds removed and thinly sliced cross-wise

directions In a large bowl, mix together all of the ingredients except the manzano chiles, and let sit for 20 minutes. Next, place the mixture, including the juices, in the center of a large, cold plate. Garnish with manzano chile slices.

Quick-pickled red onions n 1 red onion, sliced thinly in half-moons n 100g vinegar n 365g lime juice n Pinch of salt

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t’s been less than a year since Gabriela Cámara moved across the Mexican border to bring her celebrated seafood dishes to San Francisco with the opening of her new restaurant, Cala, last fall. Although new to the States, Cámara is no stranger to the culinary world—her Mexico City restaurant, Contramar, received praise from U.S. food critics and chefs, including Alice Waters. Cámara’s success comes from her focus on local and sustainable fish (“Cala” is Spanish for “creek”) as well as her fresh tortillas, which she makes daily from scratch. The restaurant’s coastal wines and agave-based cocktails are the perfect complements to Cámara’s famously light, creative dishes; dishes that have earned Cala its instant popularity.

In a large bowl, pour the vinegar and lime juice. Add the sliced red onion and let sit for at least 2 hours. Remove onions from brine and place in a sealable container. Refrigerate.

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room key

tuscan treasure

On a hill overlooking Florence, the luxe villa Il Salviatino promises a soothing immersion in the rural charms of the Renaissance. By Everett Potter

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he glories of Florence are legion, from walking awestruck through the Uffizi Gallery to marveling at the Duomo, the 15th-century cathedral with a spectacular dome designed by Brunelleschi that lies at the heart of this Renaissance city. Not to mention daily samplings of the world’s best gelato. But at day’s end, instead of staying in the marvelous but often congested heart of town, the cognoscenti head for the hills of neighboring Fiesole. Barely 15 minutes from the Duomo by taxi (assuming a local is at the wheel), Fiesole offers a tranquil aerie ideal for contemplating the marvels of Florence. And there’s no better place to make your overnight base than a spectacularly restored villa there called Il Salviatino. Long the favored hillside summer retreat of wealthy Florentine families and British writers such as Robert and Elizabeth Browning, Fiesole was the birthplace of Renaissance painter Fra Angelico. It features Etruscan and Roman ruins and a Roman theater that is still used today. Il Salviatino dates from the 15th century—it was once the home of the Bardi family of bankers. The years have brought many owners and several additions, including a tower, a conservatory and gardens. But for nearly half a century,

until 2007, it housed students for Stanford University’s overseas branch. That’s when veteran hotelier Marcello Pignozzo bought the run-down villa masquerading as a dorm, hired award-winning architect Luciano Columbo and poured millions of euros into restoring the buildings and the gardens. When they finished in 2010, they had 45 exquisite guest rooms and suites, some retaining 19th-century frescoes, along with public areas festooned with fine paintings and a blend of antique and modern furniture. Think of this as a country house hotel at the edge of the city. There is no check-in desk. Instead, you will be met, escorted and coddled throughout your stay by so-called “service ambassadors,” which is a bit like having a flock of concierges hovering just out of sight. This remarkably restored and reimagined villa has oak floors, red carpets, silver candelabras and a staircase in the entrance fit for a 1940s Hollywood movie. If there’s a favorite room, it might be the grand library, with Chesterfield sofas begging you to sit and read a book or maybe just contemplate the grandeur. The guest rooms are decorated in muted browns and yellows, the look classic and a tad conservative, and the marble bathrooms are opulent indeed. For those seeking a bit

more, there are suites to satisfy every fantasy. The top-floor Ojetti suite is on three levels with a glass-floored rooftop conservatory and a Jacuzzi overlooking the distant rooftops of Florence. There is a terraced pool area with three infinity pools that’s open from mid-April to mid-October, and pampering is available at the Spa Il Salviatino. During the summer, you can dine alfresco at La Terraza, which exudes a certain expected formality with its white linen-covered chairs—even with gravel underfoot. The designated dining room, Le Serre, offers more regimented gastronomy. And when it’s time to go into Florence there’s a shuttle that conveniently leaves you next to the Duomo. Il Salviatino is refreshingly 21st century when it comes to conveniences, and your room will have a Bose sound system, an iPod dock and a full-length mirror that conceals a TV. Yet what you’re likely to remember are not the electronics but the 12 acres of formal gardens and the private park that surround the hotel, as well as distant views of Brunelleschi’s dome framed by ancient pine trees. That is the true essence of Italian luxury. Il Salviatino, Via del Salviatino 21, Fiesole, Florence, Tuscany, Italy (00 39 055 904 1111; salviatino.com)

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in search of shanghai

Yes, it’s the top metropolis in the world’s busiest land. Did you know it also sparkles with history, culture, shopping and nightlife? By Everett Potter

W

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hen I first visited Shanghai in 1984, it was a cramped, backward-looking place still awakening from its long slumber under the reign of Chairman Mao. The hotels were musty, having for decades served mostly visiting Communist bureaucrats and diplomats. The Shanghai Museum of Art had dusty exhibit cases of antiquities, somnolent guards and few visitors. The streets were thronged with bicycles and the occasional VIP in a red-flagged limo. The old “concessions”—neighborhoods

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spring/summer 2016

By some measures the world’s most populous city, Shanghai, China, has been a key commercial hub for centuries, but only in recent decades has its architecture soared so dramatically. Here’s the skyline at sunset.

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once administered by foreign powers—had been reduced to warrens of shambolic mansions in which dozens of families dwelt with clotheslines running out of windows. Memorably, I saw a jazz band of elderly Chinese gentlemen who played nightly at the venerable Peace Hotel along the Bund. (A bund is an embanked thoroughfare fronting a river.) The bar had hosted the likes of Charlie Chaplin and Noël Coward in the 1930s, and you could feel it. Was it the same city when I went back just last year? Well, yes and no. Shanghai is still a fascinating patchwork of China’s history, with many visible remnants of its imperial past and its expansion by the British more than 170 years ago as a base for selling opium to the natives. But today it styles itself “the City of the Future”—indeed, it’s a metropolis of futuristic towers filled with newly minted multimillionaires and conspicuous consumption of every brand name from Hermès to Ferrari. And the eight-minute ride on the magnetic-levitation train from the airport reaches 267 mph and makes you feel you’re rushing headlong into times unknown. The best place to bask in Shanghai’s 21st-century excess is the Pudong financial district, with as many skyscrapers as 20 Manhattans and a neon display that for sheer exuberance outshines Times Square. Structures such as the 1,380-foot Jin Mao Tower (finished in 1999) and the Shanghai World Financial Center (1,614 feet, 2008) were superseded last year by the 2,073-foot Shanghai Tower, the world’s second-tallest building. The symbol of this megacity, the 1,535-foot Oriental Pearl TV Tower, seems to be made from giant Tinkertoys. For young, rich Shanghai residents, luxe brands are the rule. You’ve got to wear Prada, drive a Mercedes and smoke Cuban cigars. Dior, Versace and Hugo Boss wares fill the upscale malls. Shanghai shopping is nonstop on the pedestrians-only Nanjing Road and the equally popular Huaihai Road. The good news for traditionalists like me is that the Old City still offers a veritable maze of lanes that are well worth exploring on foot, with small markets and glimpses of street life. So does nearby Yuanmingyuan Road, which has some wellpreserved turn-of-the-last-century buildings. Want to go further back? The Square Pagoda was built in the Song Dynasty, about 1,000 years ago. This grand cultural relic looks like a wedding cake; it’s surrounded by ancient buildings and gardens. The former French Concession is also home to Fuxing Park, where old men follow a Far East custom, This page, from top, a guest room and a lobby reception area at the Narada Boutique Hotel Shanghai Hongkou in a northern Shanghai neighborhood; a characteristic Shanghai contrast between old and new. Opposite, Shanghai’s Pudong financial district was an ambitious riverfront development project on the Huangpu River.

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spring/summer 2016

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bringing pet birds in bamboo cages to hang on tree branches to sing while the men smoke and gossip. What has changed most, perhaps, is the arts scene. The Shanghai Art Museum now has one of the world’s best collections of ancient bronzes, ceramics and calligraphy. The Rockbund Art Museum, a restored 1932 Art Deco building, is the place to go for strikingly fresh exhibitions. And the West Bund, becoming a world-class culture hub, includes an art center that is the site of an annual art fair, and the Yuz Museum, with contemporary works. The Long Museum West Bund was China’s largest private art museum when it debuted in 2014; this year, DreamWorks studio opens its $2.5 billion Shanghai DreamCenter, with an animation studio and an entertainment complex with performance venues. When it comes to dining in Shanghai, be sure to drink tea in the garden at the Ming Dynasty-era Guyuan Teahouse on Fuxing Zhong Lu in the French Concession. Cha’s Restaurant, a traditional cha chaan teng (tea eatery) is owned by a Hong Kong movie producer. Din Tai Fung offers some of the city’s best soup dumplings (xiaolong bao), with a delicate skin wrapped around a juicy pork or crab filling. Jia Jia Tang Bao, in the Huangpu District, also has great dumplings. Jishi is small and crowded but serves classic Shanghai food, from tofu skin with mushrooms (fuzhu) to sweet-and-sour spare ribs (tangcu paigu) and crab with vermicelli sheets (xiefen fenpi). At night, head to Shouning Lu, which has street food cooked on portable grills, food carts and the aromas of roast duck and crayfish. Post-dinner bar hopping is one of the best ways to get a handle on current Shanghai residents. The clubby rooftop Bar Rouge at Bund 18 is great for people watching. As for lodging, Shanghai has an ever-expanding roster of the world’s best luxury hotels, from Ritz-Carlton Shanghai, Pudong to Four Seasons Hotel Shanghai and The Peninsula Shanghai. I’m partial to the Park Hyatt Shanghai, an oasis of calm in a frenetic city. I also like Waterhouse at South Bund, a new 19-room boutique hotel in a former 1930s warehouse—and an antidote to high-rises. But I confess that my heart belongs to the old Peace Hotel along the Bund, now the completely redone Fairmont Peace Hotel. It’s sleek, sophisticated and modern, but luckily the management has restored the Jazz Bar, where a combo of Chinese gentlemen age 80 and up plays jazz standards nightly. Cocktail in hand, I can almost be persuaded—once again— that I’m back in the Shanghai of the ’30s. spring/summer 2016

This page, clockwise from top, Hokkaido sea urchin in a lobster jelly; fried pigeons on sticks at a market in Shanghai’s Qibao Old Town; barbecuing lamb skewers at the weekly Uyghur Street Market. Opposite, Michelin-starred chef Richard Ekkebus presides over Fifty 8° Grill at the Mandarin Oriental Pudong, Shanghai.

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product guide

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Page 36

Pages 38-39

Canali peak lapel wool suit; Emanuel Berg dress shirt; Geoff Nicholson silk and linen tie; Martin Dingman belt; Santoni calfskin dress lace-ups; Moore & Giles leather weekender satchel

Left: Sealup olive nylon windbreaker; Ermenegildo Zegna brick linen knit shirt; Ballin cotton shorts; Simonnot-Godard calfskin belt; Santoni caramel leather sneakers; Orciani alligator print calfskin bag Right: Billy Reid zip-front sweatshirt; Brunello Cucinelli short-sleeve polo; Incotex 5-pocket stretch cotton sport pants; Orciani stretch linen sport belt; Santoni navy calfskin sneakers; Orciani washed indigo cotton bag with leather straps

Pages 40-41

Pages 42-43

Left: Brunello Cucinelli suede safari jacket; Brunello Cucinelli cotton chain-link stitch sweater; Brunello Cucinelli sport shirt; Brunello Cucinelli 5-pocket jeans; Orciani belt; Brunello Cucinelli pebble grain wing tips Right: Eleventy cotton knit sportcoat; Billy Reid cotton sweater; Mason’s washed linen pants; Leyva navy belt; To Boot New York grey suede trainers

Left: Eleventy linen sportcoat;Gran Sasso crewneck sweater; Derek Rose stretch T-shirt; Eleventy cotton jogger pants; To Boot New York white leather sneakers Right: Luciano Barbera green wool/silk/linen sportcoat; Luciano Barbera indigo denim sport shirt; PT01 cotton stretch trousers; Leyva navy nubuck sport belt; Rancourt navy suede slip-ons with crepe sole

Pages 44-45

Pages 46-47

Left: Circolo 1901 stretch sportcoat; Ruggiero denim sport shirt; Valentini houndstooth trousers; Orciani stretch linen belt; Fratelli Rossetti navy suede tassel sneakers Right: Brunello Cucinelli linen/wool/silk sportcoat; Canali sport shirt; Thomas Mason linen blend tie; Roda linen pocket square; Brunello Cucinelli tropical wool trousers; Martin Dingman belt; Paraboot sport lace-ups

Left: Canali silk/linen/wool plaid sportcoat; Ledbury sport shirt; Barbara Blank tie; Simonnot-Godard cotton pocket square; PT01 wool stretch trousers; Leyva belt; Fratelli Rossetti lizard print dress shoes with tassels; Dominique tie-patterned umbrella Right: Ermenegildo Zegna windowpane suit; Kiton cotton and linen striped sport shirt; Nicky Milano linen and silk tie; Roda linen pocket square; Martin Dingman glazed alligator belt; Fratelli Rossetti cap-toe dress shoes

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Left: Brunello Cucinelli cream and grey cropped floral knit; Brunello Cucinelli cotton and polyamide navy pant with elastin waistband; Brunello Cucinelli sneakers with monili detail; Elizabeth Martin dinosaur bone beaded bracelets with diamonds Right: Fabiana Filippi three-quarter-length cotton cardigan; Fabiana Filippi white cotton tank with monili neckline; Fabiana Filippi striped linen drawstring pants; Calaxini taupe sandals; Perle by Lola necklace with freshwater pearls; Elizabeth Martin fossilized dinosaur bone bracelet

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Pages 68-69

Left: Hartford palm tree print silk dress; Casta単er fringe wedges; Perle by Lola beaded necklace; Elizabeth Martin pewter beaded bracelet with turquoise; Massimo Palomba woven leather cross-body bag Right: Sealup mid-thigh raincoat; Pas de Calais leaf print silk and linen top; Majestic cotton and elastin olive tank; G1 stone linen pants; Calaxini taupe sandals; Perle by Lola grey freshwater pearl lariat necklace; Massimo Palomba white leather handbag

Left: Brunello Cucinelli grey cotton blazer with lace detail; Brunello Cucinelli white sleeveless cotton button down; Brunello Cucinelli cotton and elastin taupe pant with grey elastin waistband; Calaxini taupe sandals Right: Fabiana Filippi sleeveless silk button-down blouse with fringe detail; Fabiana Filippi navy silk drawstring pants; Brunello Cucinelli gladiator heels with monili detail; Marie Laure Chamorel silver drop earrings; Soixante Neuf Jewels silver clasp bracelet; Peserico white and grey linen scarf; Fabiana Filippi grey leather and suede purse

Pages 70-71

Pages 72-73

Left: Eleventy suede dress; Calaxini metallic sandals; Perle by Lola leather wrap bracelet; Global Girl hand woven clutch Right: Brunello Cucinelli cream and black striped linen and silk sweater with piette sequin detail; Eleventy cotton and elastin black skirt with pockets; Casta単er black wedges; Elizabeth Martin onyx and gold bead necklace

Left: Brunello Cucinelli waist-tie cotton dress with monili detail; Brunello Cucinelli gladiator heels with monili detail; Aireheart By Sydney pyrite necklace with diamond pearl drop; Aireheart By Sydney pearl and diamond drop earrings Right: Peserico taupe suede vest; Transit woven leather front top; Inhabit cotton cream tank;Goldsign white denim pants; Casta単er beige wedges; Elizabeth Martin white marble necklace with carved stone pendant; Elizabeth Martin lava stone bracelet; Global Girls hand-woven clutch with fringe

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Les Copains black cotton and elastin crop top; Peserico cotton and elastin white and black skirt; Elizabeth Martin black and gold pyrite necklace; Massimo Palomba white leather cross-body bag

spring/summer 2016

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music

genre benders

Dawes

Reinterpreting traditional styles and borrowing freely from the past, these artists are making music that sounds bang up to date. By Mark Dowden

Carrie Rodriguez

Raised to play classical violin, Texas native Carrie Rodriguez used to have no interest in singing. That changed some years ago, and the 37-year-old went on to success as a singer-songwriter of roots music. She finds full voice on the new album Lola, which contains half a dozen original songs, plus five Mexican folk tunes of the genre known as ranchera. Among these is “Perfidia,” which was a pop hit for dozens of American artists in the 1940s and ’50s. Her version, sung in Spanish, is the perfect update. The album: Lola Go-to song: “Perfidia.” Love that steel guitar. Deeper dives: “Llano Es-

Just as there was no performing artist named Marshall Tucker (or Lynyrd Skynyrd for that matter), the band Dawes has no member of that name. Their debut album brought them instant notice for reviving the Laurel Canyon sound of Joni Mitchell, Jackson Browne and Crosby, Stills & Nash. But Dawes front man Taylor Goldsmith says he and his mates had no such goal. Rings true, as Dawes’ chill stylings are unstudied, uncommercial and fresh. The album: All Your Favorite Bands Go-to song: the title track, with Goldsmith’s perfect lyrics Deeper dives: “To Be Completely Honest” and “Now That It’s Too Late, Maria”

tacado,” a Spanglish-inflected track from Lola, and “Whiskey Runs Thicker Than Blood” from the album Give Me All You Got

Nathaniel Rateliff

Growing up in rural Missouri, Nathaniel Rateliff taught himself guitar and began to write songs as a teenager. He earned critical praise for early albums and toured with Dr. Dog and The Lumineers in 2013, but it wasn’t until 2015 that he broke out with the self-titled album, Nathaniel Rateliff and the Night Sweats. The infectious, rollicking single “S.O.B.” was conceived by Rateliff as a kind of call-andresponse tune in the Gospel tradition, but its narrator seems more at home in a dive bar than a church choir. The album: Nathaniel Rateliff and the Night Sweats Go-to song: “S.O.B.” Like the man says, give me a drink! Deeper dives: “Howling at Nothing” and “Look It Here”

Catherine Russell A member of David Bowie’s band, Catherine Russell pitched in on guitar, keyboards, percussion and background vocals. After Bowie stopped touring in 2004, Russell concentrated on a solo career as a jazz and blues singer. She has consistently delivered a new album every two years, and does an especially fine job of reviving old standards. That’s her singing “Crazy Blues” on the soundtrack of Boardwalk Empire. On her latest album, Russell goes large with a swinging 10-piece band.

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The album: Bring It Back Go-to song: “Aged and Mellow” Deeper dives: “Lucille,” written by

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her father, who was Louis Armstrong’s music director, and “After the Lights Go Down”

Bloody Yes! Sunday brunch at my place has two requirements: Bloody Marys and music. Sometimes the mood calls for Billie Holiday or Bach, but when I have a high-energy crowd and want to encourage dancing, I go for the musical equivalent of Tabasco. A playlist like this one fills the bill. “Run On” by Moby “Put the Message in the Box” by World Party “Wild Child” by Lou Reed “You Know I’m No Good” by Amy Winehouse

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“I’m Putting All My Eggs in One Basket” by Ella Fitzgerald & Louis Armstrong “Groove Me” by King Floyd “Empty Pages” by Traffic “Sitting in Limbo” by Jimmy Cliff

Amy Winehouse

“Genius of Love” by Tom Tom Club “Tipitina” by Professor Longhair “Caroline” by Old Crow Medicine Show “A Quick One, While He’s Away” by The Who

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WHILE LIGHT ALLOWS US TO SEE, HIS PHOTOGR APHS ALLOW US TO DREAM. A world-class, world-travelling adventure photographer, he captures the beauty of light in darkness. Every photograph reveals moments of awe in perfect detail, inviting all to reconnect with the wonders of the world. He ventures to remote landscapes, guided only by the stars, his imagination and the micro gas lights of his trusted timepiece. For him, every moment is an opportunity to experiment without reservations. To feel the impact of light on life. To be Paul Zizka.

TO BE YOURSELF

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