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SYD JEROME

SYDJEROME FALL / WINTER 2015

FALL FASHIONS ROCKIN’ IN RIO SKIING BIG SKY MILES DAVIS BENTLEY’S MULSANNE THE BEST CHILI F A L L / W I N T E R 2 0 15

MEET MULSANNE: BENTLEY’S NEW SPEEDSTER SAY OUI TO ST. BARTS’ CHEVAL BLANC ETON: SIMPLY SCANDINAVIAN, BORN IN THE USA MILES DAVIS: MAN OF STYLE SYD.fw15.cover.indd 1

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Nothing but NEFF . “At Syd Jerome, our customers care about the small details involved in making fine clothing and creating a look that suits their very specific individual lifestyle. That’s why I’m delighted to be able to let my customers know about NEFF of Chicago’s Custom Valet Closet System. These beautiful Valet Closets are custom-designed by NEFF of Chicago’s design team to every customer’s personal specifications, and built by artisans, with attention to details like stitched leather trim, soft close racks and drawers with tempered glass. For our Syd Jerome customers who want to get organized and protect the investment in their wardrobe in style, I believe it’s Nothing but NEFF of Chicago.” Scott Shapiro, Owner — SYD

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JEROME

Patrick Borg, Owner — NEFF

OF CHICAGO

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F ... of Chicago Luxury Custom-Designed Kitchens, Closets & Bathroom Vanities

of CHICAGO

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NEFF of Chicago The Merchandise Mart — Suite 145 Chicago, IL 60654 312.467.9585 www.neff-of-chicago.com

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CONTENTS

fall/winter 2015

features Luxury, Meet Power

Beneath the elegant exterior of Bentley’s Mulsanne beats the heart of a world-class race car. 48

A Fine Line

Be the star of your own story… because there’s nothing funny about looking your best. 52

The Romance of Rio

With beauty, beaches and the bossa nova, this South American metropolis stirs the passions. 60

Some Like It Hot

Once a year, a tiny town shows the world how to do chili—alias “Texas Red.” 72

Chart your course

Channel your inner maverick with these spirited pieces.

On the cover: Top coat and suit by Pal Zileri, sweater vest by Gran Sasso, shirt by Stenströms, tie by Italo Ferretti

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columns

CONTENTS

Grape

The Argentinian varietal Malbec has regained its reputation for subtlety and balance. 75

fall/winter 2015

Spirits

departments Invitation to Style

Why looking good matters 8

The Syd Jerome Guide

Meet Pal Zileri…link up with Tateossian…under the C…Ask Mr. Etiquette…the Robbie Burns cocktail…better briefs…and more! 13

Listen up!

However you get your music, here are four artists you mustn’t miss. 22

Essentials

Take the path less traveled to reach real autumn style. 24 ICON

Miles Davis

For the Picasso of jazz, nothing was merely incidental, in music or in attire. 32

A sip of calvados between courses can take a meal from good to great. 79

‘The Office,’ Chicago Style?

The Sporting Life

These professionals mean business and they’re able to dress the part thanks to Syd Jerome. 88

The Bullpen

Syd Jerome staffers talk about fall/winter fashion, facial hair and more. 92 ROOM KEY

A Beauty on the Beach

Luxury has a Gallic accent at the Cheval Blanc on the Caribbean isle of St. Barts. 94

Skip the crowds and come to Montana, where America’s largest ski area combines perfect powder with the flavor of the West. 82

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Pursuits

This four-wheel, off-road rascal gobbles tough terrain for the sheer kick of it. 86

Look Good, Keep Well

Ways to optimize your health and your appearance—starting with a smile on your face. 96

Simply Scandinavian

That’s incomparable Eton shirts— but they were born in the U.S.A. 36

Hot Properties

For four real estate execs, shopping is all about location. Syd Jerome, that is. 40

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invitation to style

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Why Looking Good Matters sneak peeks

Stepping out

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Make it brief!

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W

hen political strategist Lee Atwater quipped that “perception is reality,” I don’t think he had men’s clothing in mind. But had he shopped at Syd Jerome and read this magazine, he would have realized how pertinent his statement was. Recently a friend invited me to attend a function hosted by a business marketing group that was thinking of adding a store to its membership. Having arrived dressed in a custom Canali suit, I noticed that I was dressed far better than anyone else in the room—except for my sponsor, who is a customer as well as a friend. After a brief introduction, I was asked to tell the group something about my business and myself. I pointed out that we were all small businesses and that in order to remain competitive in an ever-changing environment, Syd Jerome had to be proactive and think outside the box. To illustrate that, because showing is better than telling, I distributed copies of Syd Jerome magazine, calling it a fair representation of who we were, what we carried and whom we represented. A month later, my friend came to me with the “bad” news: Another store had been selected. The group’s reasons, he

said, were that I looked too young to be an owner and that the magazine made the store look too expensive. When you think about it, these were two of the greatest compliments I could have received! In this instance, ironically, our store was the victim of a faulty perception. In fact, I’m older than I look. And while the perception may be that we are expensive, the reality is that we make clothing, regardless of the price, look expensive because of our expert tailoring, the way we buy it and how we accessorize it. I suppose this group of businesspeople just did not understand the importance of image and appearance. But happily, our customers get it. The Syd Jerome customer understands the “perception is reality” concept. His appearance is important. The way he presents himself is important. How he is perceived is important. That is the reality of life. Syd Jerome magazine is just one component of how we want to be perceived. Take a look at these pages and see if you like what you see. But don’t stop there. Pay us a visit. The reality of Syd Jerome is here, every day, for every customer who walks through the door.

2 North LaSalle Street Chicago, Illinois 60602 (Cross Street: Madison Street) 312.346.0333 www.sydjerome.com Store Hours

Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday & Friday: 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Thursday: 8:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Saturday: 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Editor Mark Dowden Art Director stephen M. vitarbo Executive Editor rita guarna Managing Editor Carol BIalkowski Senior Editor Timothy Kelley Editorial Assistant jacklyn kouefati Contributing Editors virginie boone, Michael Hiller, maria lissandrello, everett potter, Josh Sens, Luca Sumberac

Contributing Photographers andrew collings Daniel Springston Publishing staff

Publisher Shae Marcus

National Brand Manager monica delli Santi

Advertising Account Executive Carl Olsen

Director of Production and Circulation Christine Hamel

Advertising Services Manager jacquelynn fischer

Senior Art Director, Agency Services Kijoo Kim

Production/Art Assistant alanna Giannantonio

Accounting agnes alves, megan frank Published by Chairman Carroll V. Dowden President Mark Dowden Senior Vice Presidents shae marcus, carl olsen

Vice Presidents Rita Guarna, christine hamel

Sid Shapiro

Scott Shapiro

S y d J e r o m e magazine is published twice a year by Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645, in association with SYD JEROME. Copyright © 2015 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. E d i to r i a l C o n t r i b u ti o n s : Write to Editor, Syd Jerome, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.782.5730; email mark.dowden@wainscotmedia.com. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions.

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S u b s c r i pti o n S e r vi c e s : To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, syd jerome Circulation Department, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.573.5541; email christine.hamel@wainscotmedia.com.

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Sydguide Jerome the

Old world, new face

Dive into the spirit world

Did you know that actor Dan Aykroyd markets a vodka in bottles shaped like a skull? That’s one of the things you’ll learn in a new book, Distilled, from Absinthe & Brandy to Vodka & Whisky, the World’s Finest Artisan Spirits Unearthed, Explained & Enjoyed (Mitchell Beazley, $19.99). Authors Joel Harrison and Neil Ridley report on a dramatic transformation that’s underway, with crafty craft distillers like Aykroyd— they call them “mavericks”—creating innovative spirits that exude unique personality and character. The authors have scoured the globe for the best in this burgeoning field. They start you out with the basics—how a distiller creates a product and how you can best sample it. Then they suggest new and classic brands they call “hidden gems.” Throughout, their passion for their subject matter is contagious. If you’re a casual drinker, this volume can add richly to your enjoyment. And if you’re a virtuoso, even you will gain a greater understanding and appreciation of the emerging universe of artisan spirits.

How does a respected fashion house remain trendy while holding onto tradition? Take a lesson from Pal Zileri. This Italian brand was launched in the 1970s as Forall Confezioni, a luxury menswear label whose handcrafted jackets featured a seamstress signature. But the time had come to revitalize the brand without sacrificing its finesse. In 2014, after Pal Zileri was acquired by a Qatari company that also took on Valentino, former Ermenegildo Zegna regional head Paolo Roviera was brought in as CEO. The brand hired a new creative director, Mauro Ravizza Krieger, who unveiled its new concept in 2015: “Avant-Craft,” a melding of the old-world craftsmanship that made the brand a sartorial staple with the latest styles and most advanced techniques. “Classicism is the foundation of Pal Zileri’s new language—an urban mix with great personality,” Krieger has said. “A new brand of metropolitan elegance, a cross between tailored garments and sportswear, between holy and profane, without losing a certain sobriety.”

Linked in?

Wear your heart on your sleeve if you must, but on your cuff wear Tateossian. This brand, named for London-based entrepreneur Robert Tateossian—“the king of cuff links”—now lends a touch of luxury to smart dressers in 71 nations. “Luxury is all about excellence, uniqueness and integrity,” says Tateossian, who began his career as a financier but switched to designing jewelry and accessories. What graces the wrist may not be life’s most earthshaking issue, but since life is short, why not put a little imagination there? “The first cuff link I created was a nut and bolt in sterling silver,” Tateossian recalls. Today his designs feature skulls, clocks, thermometers, match sticks, paper clips and interlocking gears. There’s even a bull-and-bear pair and a miniature casino-style yes-and-no “decision maker”—amid hundreds of others. This decision’s an easy one. Stop in at Syd Jerome and “link in” with a bit of luxury. fall / winter 2015

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Sydguide Jerome the

Under the C

They’ve already conquered turf—now they’re setting their sights on surf. Restaurateurs Matt Moore and David Flom, founders of the acclaimed Chicago Steakhouse (where you may find yourself seated near a celebrity like John Cusack), have outdone themselves in their newest venture, C Chicago. The upscale seafood restaurant, which opened last spring in Keefer’s former location, caters to a professional crowd, offering inventive dishes with seafood caught within 24 hours and artfully prepared by Le Bernardin alum Bill Montagne. Signature entrées include a tuna tartare with avocado roulade and wasabi tobiko and whole-roasted fish, including branzino, turbot and American red snapper. Those looking to impress a client with a refined business lunch can opt for the three-course prix-fixe menu, which surprisingly rings in at only $27. The design and décor of this 160-seat restaurant are also distinctive. It features floor-toceiling windows, with green-upholstered chairs in both the dining and lounge areas. There’s a somehow non-kitschy shark sculpture, and a 1,700-gallon aquarium puts you in the mood to contemplate the sea. C Chicago, 20 W. Kinzie St., 312.280.8882; cchicago.net

The A-to-Z List

Syd Jerome features more than 75 designer brands under one roof. See if you don’t find your favorites in the list below. Then stop by the store for a shopping experience you’ll love. Agave Denim Allegri Armani Collezioni Belvest Bobby Jones Boglioli Borsalino Brioni Canada Goose Canali Circle of Gentlemen Corneliani Cycleur de Luxe Davek Umbrellas Di bello Donald J Pliner Edward Armah Ermenegildo Zegna Eton Etro Flannel Bay Gimo’s G-Lab Gran Sasso Gruppo Artigiani Handstich Outerwear Hickey Freeman Incotex Individualized Shirts Ingram

Isaia Italo Ferretti John Varvatos Kaenon Kinross Leather Island Belts Lloyd Shoes Luciano Barbera Luigi Bianchi M Cohen Mac Jeans Marchesi Di Como Marcoliani Socks Mason’s Maui Jim Meyer Jeans Moncler Oxxford Pal Zileri Paolo Albizzati Paul & Shark Psycho Bunny Raffi Red Jacket Robert Graham Robert Jensen Robert Talbott

Salvatore Ferragamo Samuelsohn Sand Santa Andrea Sanyo Save the Duck Saxx Underwear Schneiders Silvio Fiorello Stefano Capaldi StenstrÖms Swims Taccaliti Tardia Outerwear Tateossian Thaddeus Think Pens Torino Torras Toywatch Trafalgar Vince VK Nagrani Waterville Outerwear Wigens canali Xacus Zanella

Now parking’s a cinch

Ask Mr. Etiquette scott shapiro explains how to sail through life without giving offense. I see pictures of Hollywood guys standing on the red carpet in tuxedos and sneakers. Is this crazy pairing now permissible, or is it an affront to polite society? —Perplexed in Lincoln Park

Let’s just put it out there: Parking in the city can be a nightmare. A late arrival at a dinner was the last straw for San Francisco–based Curtis Lee, who came up with the idea for Luxe Valet. With this app-based service, you get to take the driver’s seat—but let someone else deal with the parking. To use the service, type your destination address into the app (downloadable for iOS and Android from the App Store). Before you arrive, your phone receives a photo of your personal valet. That person, dressed in the company’s trademark blue jacket, will meet you as you arrive and park your car for you in a secured lot. Use the app again about 10–15 minutes before you’re ready to depart, and your car will be brought back to you. And if you had one too many whiskey sours, the company offers a “drive-home” service in several cities, including Chicago—the valet chauffeurs you in your own car. The cost of the valet service varies by demand, but is usually about $5 an hour with a daily maximum. The “drive-home” service is $25, plus $3 per mile. All payments are processed through the app.

It’s both, because the answer depends on social context. Let’s say you’re wearing a funky tuxedo jacket with jeans to a casual party. Sneakers work just fine. But if you’re attending a black-tie affair, then you shouldn’t stray far from the norm of black patent leather shoes. How far can you stray? Black calfskin shoes are OK, or, if you must let your freak flag fly, embroidered velvet slippers.

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Sydguide Jerome the

A perfect 10

It’s hard to believe it has been a full decade since the fitness emporium Equinox opened in the Loop. The New York City–based chain is a fast-paced luxury gym that focuses on personal training and offers hard-core fitness classes. For instance, to shred pounds and inches and gain muscle definition, try MetCon3, a workout circuit that crushes CrossFit and other mainstream HIIT programs. This high-intensity metabolic conditioning workout uses the body’s three energy systems to blast fat and build muscle through grueling mat exercises, free weights and more. Or for more one-on-one attention, trainers here are top-notch, using the latest assessment techniques to help clients meet their fitness goals. After your workout, sip a juice smoothie whirled to order with the freshest produce, enjoy a session in the sauna and freshen up with Kiehl’s skincare products in the locker room. All members get a sampling of luxury, but you can opt for premium services, including valet parking, the private executive locker room and the corporate club. Of course, once you’ve finished sculpting your body, stop by Syd Jerome and let us help you dress it. Do we maybe have to take those pants in a bit? Our tailors are ready to reward you for your hard work. Equinox, 200 W. Monroe St., 312.252.3100; equinox.com

A new way with whiskey

The Cup comes back

OK, the Lightning had a better regular season. But c’mon, who knows ice better, Chicago or Tampa Bay? We’re pleased to welcome the Stanley Cup back to Syd Jerome after the Blackhawks’ victory this June. The Cup was first displayed in our store back in 2010, when the team beat the Philadelphia Flyers. Because Syd Jerome dresses many of the ’Hawks players and staff, it seems fitting that the famed trophy makes an appearance in our store as part of the victory celebration.

If you’re still drinking your whiskey “straight,” it’s time to mix it up. Literally. The world’s most masculine beverage has made its way onto mixed-drinks menus across the country. “Whiskey’s pleasures are diverse and delicious,” notes Warren Bobrow, author of Whiskey Cocktails. “And much to the surprise of traditionalists, it’s a versatile spirit that’s extremely adaptable when it comes to mixology.” Here, we present Bobrow’s Robert Burns Cocktail, a tipple that honors Scotland’s most famous poet. Every sip is pure elegance, whether it’s served straight up or in a martini glass with a flamed orange zest twist. That said, if you’re a “wee tim’rous beastie,” as Burns himself wrote, steer clear: This cocktail is not for the faint of heart. If you can handle it, though, it’s a truly luxurious way to start an autumn evening. The Robert Burns Cocktail n 2 oz. Scotch whisky n ¾ oz. Italian vermouth, such as Carpano Antica

n Dash of orange bitters n Dash of absinthe n Orange zest twist (optional)

Fill a cocktail shaker three-quarters with ice. Pour all the liquid ingredients over the ice. Stir gently to combine. Strain this into a martini glass. Singe the orange zest by holding it firmly behind a lit match and pinching it to release its natural citrus oils. (Be careful to spritz the citrus oils into the glass.)

Better briefs If MBA student Trent Kitsch hadn’t gone on a fishing trip to Alaska with his dad, Saxx Underwear might never have been invented. Spending three days in a wet ocean suit had taken a toll on his private parts (constant contact with his legs), and the avid outdoorsman returned to the University of Western Ontario determined to redesign men’s underwear. The result, after months of designing, testing and fine-tuning: his patented ergonomic front pouch. About that pouch: It’s engineered with no exposed stitching and no inner seam “bulk” for added comfort. And—here’s the cool part—innovative, mega-thin mesh panels surround the pouch, keeping everything in its place and preventing unwanted friction and movement. Saxx calls its underwear “life changing.” We agree.

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The Hastens Special Edition queen bed starts at $12,360. What is great sleep worth to you?

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Sydguide Jerome the

protect your home Rest easy about the security of your abode while you’re out. Just keep watch remotely with the Withings Home HD camera, which boasts a 135-degree field of vision and automatically detects and records movement, noise and even air-quality changes. Check the video feed on your Apple device; the camera’s automatic “zoom-in” technology lets you magnify images twelvefold with a simple spread of the fingers. $199.95

gadgets & gear Here’s a collection of cool stuff that, of course, you really don’t need, but you’ll probably want.

for the home chef You’ve probably enjoyed sous vide cooking in top restaurants—now, with the Anova Precision Cooker, it’s come home. It’s a method in which food is sealed in airtight plastic bags to hold in juices and heated in water for longer than usual cooking periods to ensure consistency—no more dried-out exterior or underdone middle. Lightweight and easy to use, this handy device syncs with your smartphone, allowing you to set time and temp for a succulent sensation. $179

stirring achievement Out in the wild, in a foreign land—wherever you want to be able to make the water safe, pull out your SteriPen Adventurer Opti. It emits ultraviolet rays when used to stir a glass of H2O. The pen quickly destroys any viruses or bacteria that may linger in the liquid, so you’re guaranteed a decontaminated drink. $89.95

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handy multi-adapter Instead of juggling a bunch of different adapters when you travel internationally, try the Flight 001 4-in-1 Adapter, which conveniently combines several such tools in one colorful device, saving you time and suitcase room. $25

picture perfect Next time you try to capture a prize-winning moment, don’t let the result look “phony.” In place of a clunky camera, the Olloclip 4-in-1 Photo Lens smartens up your smartphone, producing sharper image quality. This removable lens, equivalent to that of an SLR camera, clips on to your Apple or Android phone. $69.99

for super sleep The Withings Aura features a compact sleep sensor pad that slips under your mattress and tracks your movement, breathing and heart rate—data that by sunrise is analyzed and presented in a smartphone graph, helping you pinpoint slumber problems. And a bedside device tracks sound, temperature and light levels all night long. $299.95

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Sydguide Jerome the

elements of men’s style

In which Sid Shapiro warms to the fashionable possibilities—and requirements—of a Chicago winter. What’s new at Syd Jerome this season? We’ve refocused on our original mission, which was to bring high-quality Italian merchandise to the American consumer. We are bringing back lines like Luigi Bianchi Mantova, which has a younger, slimmer look than some brands. We also now have Pal Zileri, which makes formal and casual clothing, as well as Boglioli, which specializes in a very fine and lightweight soft jacket. The emphasis is on the luxury, romance and quality of Italian clothing. That’s really the heart of our business. How fitted should men’s tailored clothing be nowadays? Is slim and short still preferred? Fitted suits are still “in,” but there are different fits for different people. Our service is so personalized that we avoid saying a fit is “trending.” Just as a doctor can’t give a one-size-fits-all prescription, we need to understand the customer—his body type, who he is and how he likes to present himself— to find the “trendiest” fit for him.

How has the dress shirt business evolved recently? Buttons and button spreads are getting more interesting; there is attention to details such as the interior of the collar and the cuff as well as the piping down the plackets of the shirt. Some companies are offering shirts with the craftsmanship and quality of tailored clothing, shirts that can be worn confidently on their own, without a suit or tie. We have an interesting dress shirt collection from Sweden called Stenströms. Eton has redefined itself with its “Green Ribbon” and “Red Ribbon” collections, which elevate the standard dress shirt. We also have customized designs from Taccaliti, for which we can pick the cuffs, trims, button colors and button spread for shirts. Other brands of interest are Sand and Circle of Gentlemen. What colors are trending this season? Strong blues, for one. Navy is always popular, but now we’re also seeing more vibrant, vivid shades, like royal blue. Also, burgundy and greys are popular in sportcoats and soft jackets, and faded shades of brown are in favor again too. What dress and casual shoes are popular? In dress shoes, we have beautiful options from Ferragamo and Donald J Pliner. Suede shoes and boots are big for fall as are double monk straps—dress shoes with two buckles on the top. Here in Chicago, function is always as important as form in winter shoes. They have to be able to withstand rain, snow and salt, so

we bring in water-resistant shoes that have a rubber bottom. Swims has very sharp sports loafers that are new this year. And John Varvatos offers some really nice leather boots. What these brands have in common is that they don’t sacrifice style. These shoes are all made to withstand a Chicago winter but still complement the fine Italian clothing we sell here. Speaking of Chicago winters, how can men keep warm without ruining their look? Well, we have wonderful pieces of outerwear. Down coats are really popular again this year, and brands like Moncler, Canada Goose and Save the Duck are all available here. A shearling or leatherwear item, such as a jacket from Gimo’s, is a smart purchase for winter. Many men take commuter trains and walk a lot, so they want something that’s fashionable but also long and warm. We look for water-resistant cashmere coats with a fur lining, beaver-lined overcoats with a waterproof body and coats with quilted linings. Layering helps with the cold as well. We have a lot of knitwear options, from Armani to Ermenegildo Zenga. We have cashmere sweaters that range from crew neck to V-neck to zip-up in every color and shade you can imagine. We also see men wearing sport shirts or soft coats under mock turtlenecks or crew neck sweaters and buying three-quarter-length sportcoats for layering under their overcoats. What’s a casual outfit for looking sharp on winter weekends? I would recommend a three-quarter wool or corduroy jacket (by Incotex, for example) over a sport shirt and a cashmere sweater, with a pair of thick trousers by Meyer, a German brand, and a sharp pair of boots or suede shoes from one of the brands mentioned above. And, of course, very colorful socks. What would you say to someone who thinks he already has everything he needs for the season? Our customer wants something fresh every season. Most people don’t shop here out of necessity. It’s because they want a selection that’s new, innovative and exciting. That’s why, for all our talk of Chicago, men actually come from all over the country and even the world to shop here. From top, Boglioli sportcoat, Ermenegildo Zegna sweater, Salvatore Ferragamo leather and suede double monk straps

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music

Listen Up!

Rhiannon Giddens

That’s not a typo. Australian native Nicky Murphy calls himself Chet Faker as an homage to the jazz trumpeter and vocalist Chet Baker. An electronic musician, Faker uses multi-track layering and echoes of early house music to produce an infectious yet mellow sound. His vocals have an emotive, slightly spaced-out quality that can put audiences in a happy trance. This is danceable party music. It’s also baby-making music. Play it with caution.

The co-founder and leader of the Carolina Chocolate Drops says her calling is to breathe new life into old songs. Rhiannon Giddens does it remarkably well—with the Chocolate Drops; as a member of the New Basement Tapes, the T-Bone Burnett project that set rediscovered Bob Dylan lyrics to music; and on her first solo album, released this year. While she switches with ease between banjo and fiddle, Giddens’ main instrument is her glorious voice. She performs songs by Nina Simone, Dolly Parton and obscure folk singers and blueswomen of the early 20th century, as well as tunes of her own. Trained in opera, Giddens can deliver a song in any style with utter conviction.

The album: Built on Glass

Deeper dives: “Melt” and

The album:

“1998,” two songs from Built on Glass that will take up residence in your head

Go-to song: “Shake Sugaree,” a cover of an

Whether you prefer to stream on Spotify or still feel compelled to “own it” via iTunes, this new music is essential listening. By Mark Dowden Chet Faker

Go-to song: “No Diggity,” his 2011 cover of a Blackstreet song from the ’90s

Tomorrow Is My Turn

old Elizabeth Cotton tune Deeper dives: “Cornbread and Butterbeans” with the Carolina Chocolate Drops and “Forever Young” as a duet with Iron & Wine

Marti Jones

A musical chameleon, Marti Jones has written and recorded in various styles, from jangle pop to Southern-style soul, since the mid-80s. She took time off to raise a daughter with her husband, the producer Don Dixon, and in recent years she has focused more on painting than performing. But last year saw the release of a new album consisting entirely of original bossa nova tunes. They prove to be the perfect vehicles for Jones’ light, clear voice, as refreshing as a caipirinha on the beach. The album:

You’re Not the Bossa Me Go-to song:

“You Solve Me”

Deeper dives: “Black Coffee in Bed,” Jones’ cover of the Squeeze classic; “I Love the Sound of Breaking Glass”

Leon Bridges

Leon Bridges was working as a dishwasher, writing songs and singing at open-mic nights around Fort Worth, when he released two demo songs on Soundcloud in late 2014; Columbia Records signed him in December, and he soon found himself touring with Sharon Van Etten. Bridges’ sound has been said to resemble the ’60s soul and gospel stylings of Otis Redding and Sam Cooke. Certainly he sings from the heart, and you’re likely to find yourself singing along. The album: Coming Home Go-to song: “Coming Home”

Deeper dives: “Lisa Sawyer” and “Brown Skin Girl”

Rediscovered with pleasure Each of these dozen songs is a classic in its genre and of its day. This is a fairly chill mix, punctuated by some rawness (courtesy of Heartless Bastards) and energetic high points (The Stones! The Kinks!). Try this playlist during cocktail hour or on a country drive. “This Tornado Loves You” by Neko Case “Shine” by Daniel Lanois “Any Major Dude Will Tell You” by Steely Dan “I Wish I Knew How It Would Feel” by Studio Rio and Nina Simone

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“Sway” by Heartless Bastards “My Buddy” by Chet Baker “Out of Time” by The Rolling Stones “Lover, You Should’ve Come Over” by Jeff Buckley

“Do You Realize?” by The Flaming Lips “Pueblo Nuevo” by Buena Vista Social Club “Feels Like Rain” by John Hiatt “Victoria” by The Kinks

Nina Simone

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brioni.com

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ESSENTIALS

street smart

Take the path less traveled to reach real autumn style.

Everything you need for a picture-perfect fall ensemble is available at Syd Jerome. Start with one of these Circle of Gentlemen shirts, add a Robert Talbott vest and finish it off with a Brioni or Italo Ferretti tie.

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ESSENTIALS

Sweater weather is here! Make sure you keep warm with zip-up Gran Sasso, Raffi and Agave sweaters. Pair them with jeans by Mac and Meyer.

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MADE IN ITALY

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ESSENTIALS

Strut your stuff in these Donald J Pliner, John Varvatos and Swims shoes. You’ll get a boost of confidence from looking so cool.

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icon Jazz trumpeter, bandleader and composer Miles Davis was an original who gave thought to every note of music—and to the distinctive sartorial notes he struck as well.

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miles davis

For the Picasso of jazz, nothing was incidental— not the notes he played on the trumpet or the absence of buttons on his sportcoat sleeves. By Maria Lissandrello

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f anyone knew from cool, it was Miles Davis. The legendary jazz musician got his start in the mid-1940s, moving from his native St. Louis to Manhattan to study at Juilliard—and play the trumpet with Charlie Parker, Thelonious Monk and other cats on the bebop scene in Harlem. Even as a teenager, he had a sartorial style that was well thought out. Although his Brooks Brothers suits came from the friendly neighborhood pawnshop, Davis made them his own by slitting notches in the lapels in homage to the Duke of Windsor. Nothing about his appearance—or his music—was incidental. When he raised his trumpet to his lips, he controlled every detail. Designer and fashion illustrator Joe Eula recalled the instructions the jazz great gave him for an outfit he was to wear onstage: “When we talked about the jacket, we knew it could be no more than 54 inches from one arm to the other, straight out.” It was calculated, you see, to reveal no more than an inch of Davis’ bespoke shirts and cufflinks. And when he turned his back to his audience (something he was wont to do—a statement, some said), the natural drop shoulders were perfectly orchestrated, his jackets cut to accommodate his slouchy playing posture. By the mid-’50s, the Juilliard dropout had transitioned to the Ivy League, getting his suits custom-made at Harvard Square’s Andover Shop. There, owner and jazz fan Charlie Davidson came to know his preferences: English tweed and madras jackets with a natural shoulder and narrow lapel, chinos and flannel trousers, and broadcloth shirts with button-down collars. On Davis’ feet, Bass Weejun loafers—a

choice that made other men question their own footwear. Davis became so renowned for his fashion sense (wearing “what the well-dressed man will wear next year,” said Down Beat magazine in 1960) that press releases on his upcoming gigs reported not just the musical program but his outfits too—pink seersucker jackets, skin-tight trousers, Italian-cut suits, handmade doeskin loafers, a beige pongee suit. In the 1950s and ’60s, the trumpet player and band leader emerged as one of the most famous jazz artists in the world, not just for his music but for his image too. He was the subject of a Playboy interview and became the first jazzman to appear on the cover of Rolling Stone. A pivotal point in his career came in 1959, when his band released what would become the best-selling—and most influential—jazz album of all time, Kind of Blue. Romantic, melancholic and beautifully melodic, it ushered in a new jazz style. Ever-evolving both in his music and his wardrobe, Davis rewrote the jazz rulebook in the late 1960s by incorporating electric instruments into his band, creating a looser, rock-influenced improvisational style. At first, on albums like In a Silent Way and Bitches Brew, it was dubbed “jazz-rock” or “fusion.” But when the ’70s arrived he abandoned jazz completely—and his sartorial style became as funky and avant-garde as his music. Somehow he managed to get away with wearing purple bell-bottoms, kipper ties and hexagonal glasses. It was part of the trademark swagger and confidence of Miles Davis. And yeah, he was still cool.

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profile

Simply

Scandinavian... but born in the USA

For incomparable Eton shirts, there are other stops along the way.

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ounded by husband-and-wife team David and Annie Pettersson in the village of Gånghester, Sweden, Eton has been synonymous with quality men’s shirts since 1928—but Eton hasn’t always been its name. The original name, Shirt Factory Special, changed in 1948 following a visit by the two entrepreneurs to England. “They fell in love with Eton, a

charming English town with a storied history, and a new brand moniker was born,” says Chris Donohue, Director of Sales in North America. Today the company’s luxe shirts, ties, scarves and pocket squares are sold around the world, yet this still partly family-owned operation continues to pride itself on superior garments that take up to six months to craft.

This international story actually begins in America, as 90 percent of Eton’s extra-long staple (ELS) cotton comes from San Joaquin County in California. (The rest is grown in Egypt.) “ELS, which accounts for only 3 percent of the world’s cotton, has superior fiber qualities, such as stronger filaments and higher torsion thread, which is why we use it exclusively,” Donohue explains.

After harvest, raw fibers are shipped to Italy, where they’re spun and woven by some of the world’s most highly skilled artisans. Albini Group, located in Albino, Italy, is famous for its looming, and Eton is its largest partner. “Besides conceiving new patterns and color combinations for our shirts and ties, we also constantly invent novel weaving techniques that continuously revolutionize the market,” says Donohue.

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In Switzerland, all shirts next go through a specialized—and top-secret—finishing process, wherein scientifically trained workers actually alter the cotton’s molecular structure to make it more wrinkle-resistant. Most manufacturers try to prevent creases with a formaldehyde-based topical treatment that coats fibers, but that method has two drawbacks: Sealing cotton means it can’t “breathe,” with the result that clothes tend to trap heat, and the substance washes off after several dry-cleaning cycles. Says Donohue: “While that procedure takes four days to complete, our finish is accomplished over the course of four weeks.”

Cutting, sewing and trimming of Eton garments happen in Eastern Europe, at exclusive production facilities bordering the Black Sea. It’s an exceptionally controlled 40-step process that alone takes one month to execute. “By remaining hyper-focused on shirts, ties and other accessories, we’ve been able to perfect our manufacturing process since Eton’s earliest days,” says Donohue.

At a time when many clothing manufacturers use the quickest production methods to meet bottom-line pressures, Eton opts for the refinement that only an investment of time can provide. And while many competitors outsource some operations, again to save money, Eton owns its entire international production process. It is therefore able to control all aspects of the creation of each shirt, assuring unparalleled quality. —Francesca Moisin fall / winter 2015

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Hot properties

For four real estate execs with style, the key to clothes shopping is location, location, location. (Syd Jerome, that is.) Photography by Andrew Collings

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Nick Colagiovanni Licensed broker at Baird & Warner

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very man should shop at Syd Jerome. There you get not only an inventory that is fresh and consistent, but also a staff that understands how men should dress, what’s trending for the season and what looks good on each individual. Personally, I like to wear a suit every day, and I dress in a way that is contemporary, timeless and European. The brands I usually wear include Canali, Etro, Ermenegildo Zegna and Brioni. To instill confidence in my clients when we first meet, I like to present myself in a complete and concise way that is also unique. I see my clothing as an investment. I wear a pocket square to give my outfit something that is decorative and fun. I wear patterns, stripes and colors, and always dress to match the season. For example, this fall I’ll be wearing a lot more greens and chocolate browns and different shades of blue. I also have some plaid jackets with reds and oranges that I’ll be incorporating into my wardrobe. Whenever I shop at Syd Jermone, Sid greets me by kissing me as if I were his own son. The staff really rolls out the red carpet. If I’ve called in advance, they’ll have outfits already picked out and waiting for me to approve, decline or tweak. Many times, I’ve called on, say, a Tuesday telling them I needed something by Thursday—they’ve had it ready for me every single time. And if I need something customized, the team of tailors is a well-oiled machine. I can’t compare Syd Jerome with anywhere else. It’s the only place I’d shop.

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Michael Shenfeld

Real estate consultant, The Shenfeld Group You never get a second chance to make a first impression. I believe if you feel good about how you look, you’ll present yourself better and show that you take pride in your appearance. After shopping at Syd Jerome, I never have to worry about wearing something that doesn’t fit right or having the same suit as someone else in a meeting. I usually dress “business casual” with a little flair—my trademark is bright-colored socks. No matter how bland a suit seems, if you put your foot up in a meeting and show off a fashionable sock, suddenly a touch of personality shines. I also like to be bold with my shirt choices. The people at Syd have taught me what I can be comfortable in. I don’t buy anything that’s plain. I prefer Made-to-Measure shirts—there are hundreds of patterns, colors and other details down to the button that let me personalize my look. The people at Syd joke that they never show me the book with the solid samples because I don’t own plain shirts. I really like Eidos Napoli for its fun, funky patterns. Sometimes I show my wife something I like on the hanger and she thinks I’m crazy. But when I put it on, she says, “Oh, wow, that looks great!” The service at Syd Jerome is exceptional. The salespeople know how to push me out of my comfort zone—with results that delight me—and the tailors make everything fit perfectly. They have the whole package. For instance, I bought a custom suit there for my first-ever “Who’s Who in Chicago Real Estate” event. When I went in to pick it up, Patrick had ready for me the tie, the shirt, the pocket square and the belt to go with the suit. The store’s staffers take care of every little detail. I have to worry about many things in a day. So it’s nice that when I’m shopping at Syd Jerome, they take that particular worry away.

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John Bucksbaum

CEO and founder of Bucksbaum Retail Properties Two things have kept me coming back to Syd Jerome for two decades now: First, the clothes are absolutely beautiful. Whatever I’m looking for, from the suit down to the belt, I can find it here. Almost every item of clothing or accessory I own is from Syd Jerome. The staff ’s eye for beauty and quality is unparalleled. The second is the personal service, which to me is equally important. I feel at home when I go there. It’s fun to go through books of samples and swatches with Sid. Shopping there is a collaboration, and I get confirmation that what I buy looks good on me. There’s no buyer’s remorse at Syd Jerome. I like wearing suits during the work week, but I always wear a shirt with color in it—about 98 percent of my shirts are color, mostly blues and greys but also pinks, purples, browns and greens. I want to present a professional image, but I also don’t want to seem too formal. For suits, I like Ermenegildo Zegna, Armani, Isaia and Brioni. I’ve been purchasing more Isaia in the last few years. Every suit I buy needs minor adjusting or finishing, so I appreciate the excellent tailoring service at Syd Jerome. I never have to worry about trying something on when it’s completed because I know it’s going to be perfect. Also, I know I’m getting every penny’s worth in the quality of the clothing and the pleasure I get from wearing it. When I put on a beautiful article of clothing and someone notices and compliments me, it’s priceless. It makes me feel good, and when I feel good, I’m going to have a head start on my day. I really believe that clothes can have that effect.

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Scott Gendell CEO and founder of Terraco

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’ve been shopping at Syd Jerome for about 20 years. Sid and Scott show not only a sense of style and an attention to detail, but also a deep caring for their clients. I usually purchase suits and sportswear, and I typically select Italian designers, especially Canali. I believe that when you wear a Canali suit, you feel good about yourself and project quality and professionalism, which is very important in my business. I like to choose something with an interesting element—bold fabrics, different textures, anything that’s not generic. I tend to be conservative, and I used to be less bold with my selections. But over the years, Sid and Scott have challenged me to consider things that stand out— without being too avant-garde. I’m glad they’ve done that for me because it has changed my outlook on shopping and lightened me up a little bit. I recently bought a new Canali suit in a “Frank Sinatra” blue, and it just pops. People tell me it’s fantastic, and when I start to explain where I got it, they say, “Of course, Syd Jerome!” Another thing I love about the store is that the staff treats you not as a customer but as a friend. I like the fact that it’s a family business that spans two generations. The Syd Jerome name feels as if it has always been there and always will. Sometimes I go there not to shop, but just to imagine. I look at items and see myself wearing them in the future. It’s truly transformational.

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A TOAST TO A COLORFUL FALL ‘15

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luxury, meet

power Beneath the elegant exterior of Bentley’s Mulsanne beats the heart of a world-class race car. By Luca Sumberac

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eauty. Class. Poise. Think of Bentley Motors, and those are some of the words that come to mind. However, what most people don’t realize is that the automotive institution also has deep roots in speed, power and racing. Enter the Bentley Mulsanne, a luxurious limousine-like sedan with raw power that harks back to Bentley’s rich history of automotive excellence. It’s no coincidence that the vehicle derives its name from the renowned

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Rarely if ever in automotive history has such an agile dynamo also offered such regal comfort.

This page: The Mulsanne brings unmistakable grandeur to the road, with zesty performance ing down the Autobahn at speeds straightaway on the legendary Circuit that belies its aristocratic luxury. Its handcrafted interior reflects meticulous craftsmanship—in well over 100 mph. de La Sarthe, home to one of the most one option, Apple iPad workstations with Internet access are integrated into retractable “picThe exterior features the iconic races in auto sports—24 Hours nic tables” in the rear cabin. Opposite, from top: an optional classic “flying B” hood ornament, a 6.75-litre twin-turbocharged V8 engine and a wheel crafted from a single piece of aluminum. unmistakable Bentley headlights, of Le Mans. A race, by the way, that a beautiful polished stainless steel Bentley has won six times. Even more grille and unique 20˝ alloy wheels (21˝ alloys available as an upgrade). Want impressive? Bentley ranks fifth in the total number of Le Mans wins, placing to ensure your Mulsanne’s uniqueness? How about some customization? behind Jaguar, Audi, Ferrari and Porsche. Spring for the exterior accoutrements available with the Mulliner Driving Let’s be clear. The Mulsanne is not a supercar; it’s not even a sports Specification option, which adds “Flying B” wing vents and the iconic “Flycar. It’s something more. It melds the best of luxury, comfort and perforing B” radiator mascot. Still not enough? With more than 100 exterior paint mance cues and wraps them up in one of the classiest bows on the market. colors, 24 interior hide colors or a bespoke option in which you’ll work with Spy the Mulsanne (consider yourself lucky if you do) and you’re instantly Bentley to create a custom color scheme, there are plenty of combinations struck by its contours—the elegant yet powerful lines emanate regalness. that will make your Mulsanne like no other—crucial if you plan on pulling And like the most stately of kings, it commands attention. After all, it’s up to a swanky gala. big—Henry VIII big. At just over 18 feet long and almost 6,000 pounds, So what powers this three-ton piece of art? Credit goes to a 6.75-liter, it’s the type of car you’d imagine seeing on Rodeo Drive shepherding twin-turbo V8 that produces 505 bhp and 752 lb. ft of torque. All that power sheiks, earls, viscounts and baronesses on extravagant shopping trips, or means the Mulsanne is capable of going from 0 to 60 in 5.1 seconds and can chauffeuring Hollywood royalty during a weekend getaway in Monaco. reach a top speed of 184 mph! Those are impressive numbers for a car that And herein lies its genius: It’s also easy to imagine the Mulsanne scream-

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weighs more than a Chevy Suburban. And inside? Whether you’ll be enjoying the Mulsanne in the driver’s seat, riding shotgun or taking up the rear, you’ll be greeted by an interior second to none. For starters, it’s dripping in leather—16 cowhides, to be precise, carefully curated to avoid any defects. Complementing the leather is one continuous veneer that wraps around the entire interior. Take your pick of Burr Walnut, Dark Stained Burr Walnut or Piano Black. If those options don’t catch your eye, you’ll be able to choose from eight other veneers. There are plenty of amenities on board—12v sockets, 14 speakers standard (audiophiles may want to upgrade to the 20-speaker Naim system) and programmable settings to adjust for different drivers. Oh, and let’s not forget the option of adding a frosted-glass bottle cooler with accompanying champagne flutes (ideal for those who prefer to be chauffeured)! At the end of the day, the Mulsanne won’t break any track records, it doesn’t get great gas mileage (11 mpg city/18 mpg highway) and its poster might not adorn the walls of 12-year-old car lovers. But none of that matters. It doesn’t need blistering speed. It doesn’t need exotic looks. It’s built for enjoyment of a higher class. The Mulsanne stands out without even trying—and that’s what makes this car so special.

The Mulsanne at a Glance

base price $306,425

Weight 5,919 lbs.

Dimensions length 18 feet, 3 inches, wheelbase 10 feet, 8 inches

Drive rear-wheel

Engine 6.75-litre twin-turbocharged V8 with cam phasing and variable displacement

Gearbox 8-speed automatic

Suspension Air springs with continuous damping control; four driver-selectable settings

Output 505 bhp @ 4200 rpm, 752 lb.-ft. torque @ 1750 rpm

Top speed 184 mph

0 to 60 mph in 5.1 seconds

Weight-to-power ratio 11.8 lbs./HP

Closest competitor Rolls Royce Ghost Series II

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be the star of your own story... because there’s nothing funny about looking your best!

Photography by Daniel Springston

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Grey and purple plaid sportcoat by Corneliani, V-neck sweater by Raffi, checked shirt by Stenstrรถms, tie by Robert Talbott, pocket square by Edward Armah and grey pants by Gino Sartore.

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This page, top coat and suit by Pal Zileri, red sweater vest by Gran Sasso, shirt by Stenstrรถms and tie by Italo Ferretti. Opposite, coat by Belvest, windowpane suit by Isaia, blue sweater by Raffi, plaid shirt by Isaia and tie by Isaia.

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This page, sportcoat, burgundy sweater and pants by Giorgio Armani. Opposite, quilted vest by Waterville, navy sportcoat and windowpane shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna, tie by Robert Talbott and pants by Ermenegildo Zegna.

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This page, plaid sportcoat by Etro, light blue sweater by Robert Talbott, shirt by Taccaliti, pocket square by Edward Armah and corduroy pants by Coppley. Opposite, windowpane suit by Canali, blue and purple windowpane shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna, tie by Ermenegildo Zegna and pocket square by Edward Armah.

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the romance of

rio

With beauty, beaches and the bossa nova, this South American metropolis stirs the passions.

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By Everett Potter

or some destinations, the arrival of the Summer Olympics would be the biggest news ever. But it’s just one more feather in the cap of next year’s host city, Rio de Janeiro, whose “Carnival,” the world’s largest, draws 2 million revelers into the streets each spring. You probably know Rio even if you’ve never visited. Movies delight in the art deco statue of Christ that presides over the harbor, rising more than 100 feet from its perch on a 2,300-foot mountain called

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The idea of building a large statue atop Corcovado was first suggested in the mid1850s. It came to fruition in 1931, when Christ the Redeemer made its debut, arms outstretched as a symbol of peace.

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This page, Cariocas enjoy a game of football on Ipanema beach. Opposite, from top, the tranquil pool lounge at the Hotel Santa Teresa, a perfect place to relax and have a drink or a light meal; Selarón’s Steps in Lapa, a colorful tiled stairway created over the course of 20 years by the late Chilean artist Jorge Selarón; a Zen-like suite at the boutique Hotel Santa Teresa.

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Corcovado. And if you’ve seen images of the conical mountains, the undulating coastline and the colorful architectural heritage of the city’s 450 years, you realize Rio looks like something the surrealist artist Salvador Dalí might have conceived. But you simply must come in the flesh, not so much to learn as to luxuriate—in the sights, the sun, the tastes, the beat. You’ll keep returning. Along fabled strands like Copacabana and Ipanema, high-rises face the surf of Guanabara Bay. The hippest of the 6 million Cariocas—Rio residents—can be seen going from apartment to beach in nothing more than a skimpy black bathing suit and flip-flops, cell phones to their ears, wraparound designer shades de rigueur, their tans at a level of perfection most of us can only dream of. But above their neighborhoods rise mountains that are a patchwork of jungle and shantytowns known as favelas. Rio is stylish and hedonistic, but it’s also a big city, with some spots as glamorous as Paris and others as edgy as Detroit, often within a few blocks. To experience the world’s most mannered beach rituals, choose cool Ipanema and hang out at the area marked Posto 9, the epicenter of beach hip. Styleconscious Cariocas set up their umbrellas alongside the thundering surf, but surprisingly few ever swim, as riptides can be fierce. Instead, they preen and socialize, in a display of exhibitionism and vanity of the highest order. Women wear tiny bathing suits known as fio dental—dental floss—while men favor an abbreviated Speedo-like style called a sunga. The hyper-fit play volleyball as well as the uber-athletic hybrid of soccer and volleyball called futevolei. If you’ve spent the day with “The Girl from Ipanema” playing in your head, grab a chopp, a Brazilian draft beer, at Garota de Ipanema on Rua Vinicius de Moraes, where Tom Jobim and Vinicius de Moraes penned the legendary song in 1962. It introduced the world to the sound called bossa nova or “new beat.” With a few well-chosen words of Portuguese, you can handle Rio’s taxi drivers and have them take you all over the “Cidade Marvilhosa”—marvelous city. The Chácara do Céu museum in Santa Teresa is the former home of industrialist Raymundo Ottoni de Castro Maya. He collected Brazilian, European and Asian art, but his modernist house is equally fascinating. Then head to Praça Tiradentes, a public square in the city’s center, ditch the cab and walk to Real Gabinete Portugues de Leitura, fall / winter 2015

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a 19th-century library whose main reading room is a veritable cathedral of books reaching to the sky. Walk a few blocks to a pedestrian-only street called Gonçalves-Dias and step into the magnificent eatery known as Confeitaria Colombo, a riot of Art Nouveau mirrors and stained glass from 1894. Grab a seat at one of the marble tables, order a hearts-of-palm salad, and follow it with a cafezinho, Brazilian coffee, and traditional Portuguese sweets. You’ll find the brightest star for lodging in the hilly Santa Teresa neighborhood. It’s the Hotel Santa Teresa, which was formerly a 19th-century fazenda, or ranch. This Relais & Châteaux property boasts high style and amazing views of the bay. Inside there are 44 suites decorated with folk art from the Amazon and mid-century modern pieces by Brazilian designer Sergio Rodrigues. Simple fourposter beds and a Zen-like minimalism are hallmarks of the rooms. There is a slate swimming pool, perfect for a sweltering Rio day, and a neighborhood that has in the past decade evolved from edgy to hip. The fazenda’s former senzala (slave quarters), now houses the lively Bar dos Descasados. When it comes to dining, nearby is Aprazível, which has fine views, a welcoming garden and a menu that highlights Brazilian seafood, with dishes such as orange-infused tropical fish with coconut rice and roasted plantains. Zuka is more cutting-edge, offering fusion cuisine that takes Brazilian ingredients and blends them with European staples— rack of lamb with passion fruit, for example. Zazá keeps the emphasis on Asian accents, and diners lounge on throw pillows—try the grilled namorado (perch) served with caramelized plantains. Then it’s time to go out. Cariocas say it doesn’t matter whether you are rich or poor in Lapa, because everyone comes to this neighborhood for the same things: music, dancing and a well-made caipirinha, the national cocktail of sliced limes, sugar, ice and cachaca, a sugar-cane liquor. Among the best clubs are Rio Scenarium, an eccentric boîte that’s jammed with antiques as well as partygoers and a live band playing samba or chorino. You can also dance and hear music at Carioca da Gema, which began the Lapa revival and is filled with bossa nova lovers every night. I also like Centro Cultural Carioca. A former dance hall, this two-story space has samba lessons downstairs while in the vast, windowed upstairs hall, an array of performers play various styles of Brazilian music. The blending of music and food is part of the extraordinary melding of cultures that defines Rio de Janeiro, one of the world’s liveliest and most surprising cities.

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This page, dancing at Carnival, a world-famous, five-day celebration that takes place 40 days before Easter. Opposite, from top, drummers getting into the samba groove during Carnival; one of the the many colorful, architecturally rich streets in Rio’s Bohemian Santa Teresa neighborhood; riding a cable car up to iconic Sugar Loaf Mountain, which offers stunning views of the city.

Hotel Santa Teresa +55 21 3380 0200 reservas@santateresahotel.com santa-teresa-hotel.com

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channel your inner maverick with these spirited pieces. (they’re comfortable too!)

chart your course Photography by Daniel Springston

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Previous page from left, hooded coat by Moncler, V-neck sweater and plaid shirt by Vince and burgundy cotton pants by Mason’s; orange hooded coat by Save the Duck, orange sweater by Paul & Shark, shirt by Robert Talbott and jeans by Canali. This page, tan parka by Canada Goose, cashmere sweater by Raffi, shirt by Taccaliti and brown pants by Meyer. Opposite from left, quilted coat by Handstich, sweater by Gran Sasso, plaid shirt by Etro and jeans by Agave; coat by Gimo’s, brown vest by Gran Sasso, plaid shirt by Xacus and wool pants by Zanella.

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This page, navy cardigan and plaid shirt by Luciano Barbera and brown pants by Incotex. Opposite from left, hooded coat, blue sweater and plaid shirt by Paul & Shark and blue corduroy pants by Meyer; burgundy windowpane sportcoat by Luigi Bianchi Mantova, grey shirt by Eton, tie by Robert Talbott, pocket square by Edward Armah and wool pants by Circle of Gentlemen.

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some like it

hot

By Michael Hiller

once a year, a tiny town shows the world how to do chili—alias “texas red.”

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erlingua, Texas, population 58, isn’t much to look at—a dusty ghost town of caliche roads, prickly ocotillo and sagebrush tangles. But on the first Saturday of November each year, this patch of desert west of Big Bend National Park bustles with thousands of chili fans and hundreds of cooks who arrive to compete in the town’s world-famous Chili Appreciation Society International Chili Championship. Almost overnight, the air fills with the scent of wood smoke, too much beer and simmering pots of Texas red. It’s a rowdy crowd that shares a love for country music, the Lone Star State and chili con carne, a spicy dish born on the cattle trails near San Antonio whose primary ingredients are red chiles and meat. Every other ingredient, from tomatoes to onions to seasonings, is subject to intense debate. But on one thing every Texas chili-head agrees: Real chili contains no beans. Use beans in your chili at this cook-off and you’ll be instantly disqualified. Frank Tolbert, a journalist and historian who was considered the state’s leading authority on chili until his death in 1984,

regarded beans as heretical. “Heaven help us one and all,” he wrote in response to a Yankee cook who espoused a beany recipe. “You might as well throw in some puffed rice, or a handful of shredded alfalfa, or a few maraschino cherries!” A line from the Terlingua Chili Cook-Off ’s anthem says: “If you know beans about chili, you know that chili has no beans.” Texans are no more bashful about chili than about anything else. “Chili concocted outside of Texas is a weak, apologetic imitation of the real thing,” insisted Lyndon Johnson. In 1977, the legislature proclaimed chili the “state dish,” declaring, “The only real ‘bowl of red’ is that prepared by Texans.” Of course, not everyone agrees. Nontraditionalists across the U.S. not only dare to include beans, but also like to put their own spin on this classic, adding turkey, pork, even spaghetti to their chili pots. Some say those dishes are more properly called stews or soups or casseroles. And some call them delicious. But in Terlingua, they won’t call them chili.

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grape

malbec’s comeback

This Argentine varietal has regained its reputation for subtlety and balance—and hard times actually helped. By Josh Sens

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on’t cry for Malbec, Argentina! The truth is, the wine for which that country is best known came through the economic crash of the late 1990s and early 2000s. It didn’t just survive; it flourished. Over time, the downturn had an unexpected upside, as runaway inflation corrected an imbalance in the market. In the sour climate, it no longer made sense to bottle low-end Malbecs because it was pretty much impossible to turn a profit on them. So vintners slashed production of their two-buck chuck—the subpar swill they’d been pumping out for years, staining Malbec’s image around the world. “So much cheap stuff had been getting out there

This label announces a subtle, widely suitable varietal—a far cry from the not-so-distinguished table wines that recently diluted the distinction of the Malbec name.

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GRAPE

Clockwise from top left: Winemaker Paul Hobbs with Bertrand Vigouroux, whose family has produced Malbec in France for 150 years; wine caves at Argentina’s Pulenta Estate winery; the wine-making Pulenta family: Hugo, Don Antonio, Eduardo Jr. and Eduardo; the Viña Cobos winery in western Argentina.

early aftermath of the crash it gushed out in even greater torrents. Much of that it was hurting Malbec’s reputation,” says Paul Hobbs, a veteran wineit was over-oaked and over-extracted, with all the subtlety of a sledgehammaker and wine importer. “It was a serious problem. But the Argentine mer. Some of it was fraudulently labeled. economy solved it for us.” “It got so bad that there were ‘Malbecs’ on the market that didn’t contain As it happens, Hobbs lent a hand as well. A former winemaker for Robert Mondavi, Hobbs has roots in Malbec that run decades deep. He first turned any actual Malbec,” Hobbs says. “We used to joke that they were born with a birth certificate of Bonarda [a less nuanced grape varietal] but his mind to it in the late 1980s, when he traveled to Argenwere traveling with a Malbec passport.” tina and was struck by the varietal’s vast untapped potenMeanwhile, Hobbs kept at it, and when the economic tial. Though Malbec grew abundantly around Mendoza, tasting notes crash crushed the low end of the market, the Malbecs he the country’s largest wine-making region, its quantity far had championed came to the fore. Hobbs has since been outstripped its quality. Most Argentine Malbec wound up Cobos Malbec 2011 $210 joined by a growing number of Malbec producers who are in inexpensive blends known as “criollas”—ho-hum table A dark, elegant wine that opens with out to show the grape for all that it can be. Among them wines with not much to recommend them other than their hints of coffee and caramel, but are wineries such as Riglos and Pulenta Estate, in the bargain-basement price. Hobbs envisioned a different fate plays out on the palate with bright berry and cherry notes. rolling folds of the Mendoza region, on terrain that inches for Malbec, a noble French-born grape that he believed toward the Andes foothills, where the climate and the soil just needed to be treated with more dignity. Pulenta Estate give rise to complex fruit. Using old-vine fruit grown by Nicolas Catena, one Malbec 2011 $29 Like Hobbs, the vintners on these properties lean of Argentina’s most respected vintners, Hobbs began a The first impression: French oak toward low-tech practices, a minimalist approach that deep dive into Malbec, applying Old World practices to and mulling spices. But those wintry lets the winning traits of the grape shine through. Their New World wine production. The result was Malbecs of notes make way for a springtime symphony of lavender and vintages demonstrate impressive range—some lean and unusual refinement, not the high-alcohol brutes that so honeysuckle, followed by a clean supple, others round-bodied and robust. And contrary to many consumers had come to know. plum-tinted finish. Malbec’s stubborn reputation as a varietal best suited to In 1999, Hobbs co-founded Viña Cobos, a Mendoza Riglos Gran steakhouse fare, these wines are strikingly food-friendly, winery, where he experimented with varied root stocks, Malbec 2012 pairing beautifully with sirloin, sure, but also with pasta, planting the varietal on new sites that showcased Malbec’s $35 seafood, curries and more. distinctive terroir. The wines he produced earned wideA juicy but balanced wine that never grows too jammy, it mingles “To a lot of people, it used to seem that Malbec had spread accolades for their bright notes and balance. But in floral flavors with a ripe minerality, a serious problem,” Hobbs says. “But the bigger problem the world of Malbec they were the exception, not the rule. and a just-right touch of tannins was, we didn’t really understand the grape.” Cheap Malbec still flooded the market, and in the tickles the tongue.

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spirits

palate reboot

A sip of calvados between courses can take a meal from good to great. By Virginie Boone

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he dinner is splendid, but its many fine flavors are starting to confuse your taste buds. That’s the moment for what the French call le trou Normand (literally, “the Norman hole”). It’s a traditional break in an elaborate meal to cleanse the palate, aid digestion and prepare for the next course. And it usually features calvados, the world’s pre-eminent apple brandy. Calvados has been made by the Normans in northern France for at least 400 years. At one time, it is said, some farmers paid their rent with barrels of the fermenting cider from which the brandy is made. But it was only in 1942 that calvados was given an officially protected name in France’s system of AOCs (appellations d’origine controlees), geographically protected zones linked to specific wines and other agricultural products.

Taking a break to sip an apple brandy like Château du Breuil Calvados from the heart of Normandy reawakens the taste buds, restores the appetite and prepares you for maximum enjoyment as the dinner proceeds.

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spirits Clockwise from top left: Apples give calvados its distinctive flavor; the brandy shares its name with a geographical “department” in Normandy: the Château de Falaise in the Calvados region is more than a thousand years old; barrels of calvados produced by Boulard await shipment.

There are actually three specific AOCs known for calvados. But the heart of this brandy’s homeland is one called Pays d’Auge. That’s where, around 1960, Christian Drouin Sr. bought a farmhouse surrounded by apple trees. He hoped to supplement his income by selling the fruit, but prices at the time weren’t compelling enough. Yet Drouin’s friend Pierre Pivet, a native of the area, happened to have a mobile still and was in the habit of visiting farms to help farmers distill cider. He suggested Drouin give it a go. He did, stocking away much of what he made within his cellar until 1979, when his son Christian Drouin Jr. figured it might make sense to actually sell a bit of the stuff. It turned out to be exquisite. The family was soon offering the world single-vintage bottlings of calvados, igniting a wave of new interest in the spirit, especially among Michelinstarred chefs. Christian Drouin’s namesake firm continues to have the world’s largest selection of single-vintage calvados, with each vintage representing the year of distillation, usually the calendar year after harvest. And Drouin still farms its original roughly 50-acre orchard in the town of Gonneville-sur-Honfleur, as

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well as a second property known as Domaine Coeur de Lion in Coudray-Rabut, which tourists can visit. These properties provide roughly half of the apples required yearly to make Christian Drouin brandy. The other half are sourced from nearby longtime growing partners, all of whom subscribe to diversity, growing apples in four categories: sweet, bittersweet, bitter and acidic. When they’re ready to harvest, apples are shaken gently out of trees, to be gathered from the ground by hand. Ripening varies among the types of apples, beginning in late summer and extending through the winter. Farmers store the earlier-ripening varieties so that the distillers have all four kinds at their disposal once they’re ready to press the apples into cider. And pears are sometimes included in the mix as well. Often the cider is pressed at the farm in order to take advantage of the wild yeasts that are present for fermentation, then double pot-distilled and aged a minimum of two years in used sherry, port or oak casks. How do you know when this timehonored Gallic palate-cleanser has done its job? Suddenly, you’re absolutely ready for the next course.

five to try Calvados Roger Groult Réserve 3 Year Old Calvados Run today by a member of the fifth generation of the Groult family, JeanRoger, this producer in the heart of the Pays d’Auge farms about 57 acres planted with some 5,600 apple trees. One of its signature processes is double-distillation over a wood fire. It then ages its calvados in 100-year-old oak casks. This reserve-level calvados was named “world’s best” at the 2014 World Drinks Awards; it’s meant to be a pure expression of the fruit, enjoyed as an aperitif or within a cocktail, a combination of crisp green apple and caramel-vanilla. It’s also made in eightyear-old and 12-year-old versions.

Christian Drouin Fine Pays d’Auge Calvados Made in the Pays d’Auge by Guillaume Drouin, grandson of Christian Drouin Sr., this is the youngest of the producer’s appellation calvados, aged a minimum of three years. It possesses intriguing amounts of body and depth around classic notes of white flowers, caramel, vanilla and apple.

Christian Drouin Pommeau de Normandie A combination of three-quarters apple juice and one-quarter calvados, Pommeau is aged three to four years in oak and is lighter in alcohol than a typical straight-up calvados, at 17 percent instead of the more common 40 percent. This gives it a refreshing

quality that’s ideal with food, or as an aperitif, while retaining that signature scent of baked apples and brown sugar. Served chilled in a tulip glass, it’s also a popular accent in cooking as well as a nice addition to cocktails, especially when paired with champagne or Prosecco.

Domaine Louis Dupont Calvados VSOP Aged five years in oak barrels, a quarter of them new, this is just one of many worthy calvados produced by the Dupont family, another Pays d’Auge stalwart, which traces its roots in the region to 1703. Dupont’s use of new oak is provocative as well as innovative, but the wood flavors are balanced by striking tones of vanilla, almond and licorice. This is an effective digestif, enjoyed slowly after dinner.

Germain-Robin Heirloom Apple Brandy Founded in California’s Mendocino County in 1982 by Hubert GermainRobin, a native of Cognac, and Ansley Coale, Germain-Robin uses locally grown heirloom apple varieties such as Black Twig, Wickson and Ribston Pippin for this rare American apple brandy, distilling each variety separately, then blending distillates that range in age from six to 15 years. The calvadosinspired result is then aged in French Limousin oak. It tastes exquisitely of green apple with a floral back note and just a hint of butter.

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the sporting life About an hour south of Bozeman, Montana, you’ll find the magnificent Big Sky Resort, with some of the most thrilling powder skiing this side of Switzerland. And you won’t spend half the day waiting in lift lines.

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big sky’s the limit

Skip the crowds and come to Montana, where America’s largest ski area offers perfect powder, breathtaking vistas and the flavor of the West. By Everett Potter

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’m not exaggerating when I tell you I can smell the adrenaline in the tiny tram at Big Sky Resort, which is rapidly ascending a sheer rock face to the 11,166-foot summit of Lone Mountain. Crammed inside with me are a dozen pumped-up skiers, gazing out at the seemingly limitless expanse of peaks and the vast sky that gives sprawling Montana its nickname—“the Big Sky country”—and names this resort as well. Big Sky Resort, which was opened in 1973 by the late, legendary NBC newsman Chet Huntley, is directly below. On the mountain’s north side is Moonlight Basin, a real-estate-development-turned-ski-resort that merged with Big Sky a couple of years ago. Like most of the other skiers and boarders on this tram, I’ve been happily skiing between the two, which is easy enough because they are connected. Michigan-based Boyne Resorts, which operates them both, added even more terrain when it acquired a private ski area on Spirit Mountain. With these properties combined, the new Big Sky Resort offers 5,750 acres of terrain, nudging ahead of Vail’s 5,289 to become the largest ski area in America. It’s why my tram-mates are so jazzed about accessing the gnarliest in-bounds terrain this side of the Alps. “It’s blowing a little hard up here,” says a guy wearing enough gear to ascend Everest as we step out of the gondola. Hard? I’m being blown backwards on my skis. The wind actually clocks at 80 miles per hour, but I won’t learn that until I ski down Marx, one of Big Sky’s famous Dictator Chutes. That’s dictators as in Castro, Lenin and Marx (an honorary dictator, I guess). I am sweating bullets as I ski down the thick, wind-blasted powder on Marx, which

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the sporting life Clockwise from left: The Mountain Guest House at the Yellowstone Club, which has openings for new members; Karl Marx didn’t actually get to be a dictator, but this run named for him is one of Big Sky’s famous “Dictator Chutes”; Scissorbills Saloon serves a mean grilled elk steak.

turns out to be steeper than anything I’ve ever wanted to ski. How steep? Let’s put it can be hard to leave one’s 860-square-foot, two-bedroom Cowboy Cabin. Cowboys should have it so good, with handsome leather chairs, drop-dead views of the Spanthis way: If I fell, I’d probably end up in Utah. ish Peaks range and a private alfresco hot tub. Steep, yes. But later I also cruise my way into corduroy bliss. There are dozens Just outside Big Sky Resort is the legendary Buck’s T-4 Lodge, a rambling but of well-heeled doctors, lawyers and corporate chiefs from Minneapolis, Detroit and comfortable place with a slight roadhouse feel, with log walls, stone fireplaces and Chicago. They’re enjoying the exceptionally long and well-groomed runs and the trophy heads. The star attraction here is the restaurant, arguably the best in the area, absence of crowds at both Big Sky and Moonlight Basin. Nearly 40 percent of the and a wine cellar that has been winning Wine Spectator’s Awards of Excellence for terrain is ideal for beginners and intermediates. Big Sky Resort lies about an hour’s drive south of Bozeman, which is well two decades. A destination for those who love cross-country skiing is Lone Mounserved by major airlines. Yet this is not Colorado or Utah, or even Wyoming. There tain Ranch, which is one of the greatest dedicated Nordic resorts in the United are no crowds or lift lines here, despite the fact that the Big Sky area has some of the States. Even if you’re not staying there, it’s a treat to enjoy an evening sleigh ride most extraordinary natural attractions in the lower 48 states. Yellowstone National followed by a three-course dinner in the candlelit lodge. There’s another great skiing option adjacent to Big Sky Resort, but it’s only Park is a few miles down the road from the ski resort. The Gallatin and Madison Rivers, nirvana for the fly-fishing set, are within casting distance. And the skiing is as available to member-residents. The Yellowstone Club, which opened in 1999, owns the 9,860-foot Pioneer Mountain, with more than 2,000 skiable good as it gets: On a typical day, when you jump on a high-speed acres. Memberships remain available—the current total of 460 quad there will typically be empty chairs ahead of and behind you. will rise to 864 before it’s capped. (To buy, you must pass muster You can ski more in a morning here than you can all day at another from a board that includes Microsoft founder Bill Gates and resort where you have to wait in line for 20 minutes after every run. BIG SKY RESORT GETTING THERE New England Patriots quarterback Tom Brady.) The numbers tell the story: Big Sky draws about 370,000 skiers a United, Delta, Frontier, Alaska Then there’s the other Yellowstone, the park, easily accessible year, while Vail gets 1.7 million. You will have no trouble finding a and Allegiant airlines serve to all of us. This national treasure gets just three percent of its 3 place to sit at lunch. Dinner is fun, not a mob scene with Type A’s Bozeman–Yellowstone International Airport, which is million tourists in wintertime. From Big Sky, you can arrange to jostling for reservations. 38 miles north of Big Sky. head into the park with an outfitter on a snow coach tour to see The ski village offers a welcome bustle, and there’s an activity FOR MORE INFORMATION bison and elk herds and observe the geysers steaming in the winter center where non-Alpine sports like tubing, zip-lining and snowVisit bigskyresort.com. cold. Wolf sightings are also possible. shoeing are offered. There are bars and restaurants here, though if The park welcomes cross-country skiers, snowshoers and you’re used to Vail or Aspen the vibe seems pretty sedate and cowboy-flavored. Places like Scissorbills Saloon and the Cabin Bar & Grill invite you to snowmobilers. There are tracks set for cross-country skiers, and the park’s unplowed tuck into hearty steaks and Montana elk. Lodging choices run the gamut, but condo- roads and trails are fair game for those on snowshoes. There are also miles of backstyle accommodations rule. The Lodge at Big Sky and The Summit at Big Sky both country wilderness to explore, but unless you’re an experienced backcountry skier offer condos at the mountain’s base, as does the Big Sky Resort Village Center, which or snowshoer, contact one of the park’s nearly two dozen licensed guides to take you safely into the wild. Snowmobilers will also need to go with a registered company. is a bit more upscale. Whether you take your skiing straight or pair it with these other activities, don’t I prefer staying over at Moonlight Basin, where lodgings are a bevy of newly come to Big Sky for a scene, or to be seen. Come for true Montana hospitality and a built homes, condos, town homes and cabins, all adhering to a strict Western stonechance to try Wild West skiing in the biggest mountain complex in the United States. and-timber aesthetic. My favorite is the Cowboy Heaven luxury suites, where it

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pursuits

,

off-road rascal Call it a “utility” vehicle if you like, but this four-wheeler gobbles tough terrain for the sheer kick of it. By Michael Hiller

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f you’re searching for your weapon in the war against the ordinary, we’ve found it. The 2015 Polaris RZR XP 1000 is not the kind of vehicle you buy for a quick zip to Whole Foods. The farmers’ market crowd might not appreciate its best-in-class 110-horsepower engine, high-output cams, direct-flow intake covers or agile suspension—specs that not even the most extreme, race-modified side-by-sides can touch. But what a lesser UTV won’t do is eat up every inch of wild terrain you can throw at it, from salt flats to deep woods mud to sand dunes. Tap on the gas and this beast grunts with raw power. Once its 29-inch Outlaw II tires grip the earth, the four-stroke DOHC twin cylinders fire the XP 1000 like a rocket, plopping every other two-seat UTV in its class in the rear view mirror. You don’t need a master’s degree in applied physics to know that this four-wheeler is going to be a whole lot of fun. Inside the open cockpit, the 2015 RZR delivers thoughtful details you’d expect from

Polaris, including full doors, electronic power steering, adjustable performance comfort seats with deep side bolsters, LED interior lighting, a tilt steering wheel and plenty of interior storage. Cabin and floor clean-outs inside the vehicle make even the sloppiest days an easy recovery. With its street brawler looks and street cred specs, the XP 1000 comes ready to rumble. Buckle yourself into the driver’s seat and prepare to leave the work week behind. You’ll want to do things you’d never do in any other vehicle. Fly over obstacles instead of swerving around them. Carve corners rather than cutting them. Face down evil with a grin. That’s why the 2015 RZR XP 1000 comes in colors named Havasu Red Pearl, Voodoo Blue and White Lightning. At $20,299, Polaris’ two-seater isn’t for everyone. But for those who choose it, it’s a gut-aching good time.

For 2015, Polaris has improved the sporty little RZR XP 1000, redesigning the clutch cover, secondary helix and ducting apparatus to create the most durable clutch system yet.

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TRUNK SHOW | THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 5TH

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‘The Office,’ Chicago style? Unlike the wayward characters in the recent hit TV sitcom, these professionals must be—and look— all business. Thanks to Syd Jerome, they’re able to dress the part with distinction and a bit of flair. Photography by Andrew Collings

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Waterville Advisors There’s no “show biz” irreverence about the structured settlement cases dealt with by the lawyers and executives at Waterville Advisors. The company they keep is serious too. “We have the pleasure of working with some of the most well-respected plaintiff attorneys in Chicago, many of whom are also customers of Syd Jerome,” says managing partner Daniel J. McCarthy, Esq. (center, above). Does that prohibit a bit of style and imagination? Of course not. McCarthy seeks a “highquality, expertly tailored classic look,” while partner Andrew Prindable, Esq., (right) prefers

“young and hip” patterns and colors and brands like Etro and Eidos, and owner/founder B.J. Etscheid (left) is usually more sporty in an Isaia sportcoat, a pocket square and jeans. Still, each of them finds something that fits his personality perfectly at Syd Jerome. “I like that I have ‘a guy’ who knows me, my style, what I already have in my closet and what I need to complement my wardrobe,” says Prindable. “The Syd experience makes it fun to shop for clothes.” In fact, a visit to the store often turns out to entail more shopping than originally intended.

“I never get out of there with just what I came for,” says Etscheid. Prindable cites a similar experience: “One time, I was in the store on a fairly cold fall day shopping for shirts, and a Robert Graham coat caught my eye. An hour later, I walked out of there with a tailor-made coat that they had completed while I shopped.” “Everyone at Syd Jerome makes you feel important,” adds McCarthy in an apt summation. “It’s an ‘old school’ environment, complete with great camaraderie.”

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Clifford Law Offices At Clifford, one of the area’s top-ranked personal-injury law offices, first impressions count. The hard-working lawyers there want to instill confidence in their clients from their introductory handshake onward. They’re all sophisticated about suits—the ones they file. As for the other kind, they’re happy to have a store—Syd Jerome—whose staffers are impeccable witnesses to good taste and classic style. “Because of the nature of our

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business, most days we are in suits,” says partner Sean Driscoll, Esq., with an admirable lack of sartorial legalese. “Billy, our sales rep, helps prevent us from wearing the same blue suit all the time.” Conservative attire is de rigueur. But the professionals at Clifford rely on the Syd Jerome team to help make sure conservative never means monotonous. “I completely trust Billy,” says Driscoll. “He helps me keep my choice of suits

just right for the season. Also, I’m color-blind, so I rely on him to find something that, while comfortable, also looks just right on me.” The speedy service and tailoring at Syd are important for these attorneys, who often find themselves called to a last-minute hearing or deposition. Says Driscoll: “Syd is the place to go if you need something quick.” Shown above are associate Craig J. Squillace (left) and partner Michael S. Krzak.

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the bullpen

advice from the

Style Pros

The staff at Syd Jerome is dedicated, professional and, not incidentally, a hell-of-a-nice-group of guys who make shopping for menswear fun.To help you get ready for fall—and get to know the staff better—we asked them a few relevant questions. Check out their answers, then stop by the store to chat with them in person. The guys—along with Sid and Scott Shapiro, of course—are ready to serve you.

Juan Farfan

Mario Crivello

Billy Cavada

Gary Palay

Willie Juarez

Patrick Katen

What do I need to be the boss of business casual? The relaxed yet sophisticated unconstructed soft-shoulder blazer, five-pocket cotton-style jeans, bold print shirt and loafers with no socks. If you were a superhero, which one would you be and why? Superman. He’s the only superhero that does not rely on a suit or accessories/weapons. Hard or soft luggage? Hard, because it’s more masculine. University of Kansas research reveals that people can make an accurate assumption based on checking out your shoes, and I want to make a great impression. What do you suggest I buy? Go for the classics: wingtips or cap-toes. They portray power and elegance. What’s new in jeans this season? Dark colors. I want to stay warm and look great this winter. What’s my best outerwear option? Goosedown, arctic ready. Clean shaven or facial hair? Facial hair, rugged and unabashed. What must I buy this season? A doublebreasted mid-blue blazer six on two.

What do I need to be the boss of business casual? Wear a suit because business casual is a conundrum. If you were a superhero, which one would you be and why? Superman. Enough said. Hard or soft luggage? Hard. University of Kansas research reveals that people can make an accurate assumption based on checking out your shoes, and I want to make a great impression. What do you suggest I buy? Classic wingtip or cap-toe. What’s new in jeans this season? Dark colors. I want to stay warm and look great this winter. What’s my best outerwear option? Stay home. Clean shaven or facial hair? Facial hair. What must I buy this season? A threepiece suit.

What do I need to be the boss of business casual? A soft constructed sportcoat, dress pants or Meyer khaki pants, Salvatore Ferragamo loafers and an Ermenegildo Zenga sport shirt. If you were a superhero, which one would you be and why? Superman! He always wears a suit until he changes into Superman. Hard or soft luggage? I always use soft. It’s easier to shove into tight spots. University of Kansas research reveals that people can make an accurate assumption based on checking out your shoes, and I want to make a great impression. What do you suggest I buy? A medium to darker brown double monk strap; it gives you more style and elegance. What’s new in jeans this season? A simple, less distressed look. I want to stay warm and look great this winter. What’s my best outerwear option? Canada Goose down coat—stylish and warm. Clean shaven or facial hair? A little facial hair won’t hurt you.

What do I need to be the boss of business casual? Wearing some type of sportcoat or sweater coat always sets the right tone. If you were a superhero, which one would you be and why? Reed Richards of the Fantastic Four. Not being blessed with long arms, I’ve longadmired his reach! Hard or soft luggage? Soft. University of Kansas research reveals that people can make an accurate assumption based on checking out your shoes, and I want to make a great impression. What do you suggest I buy? Laced cap-toe. But more importantly, make sure your shoes—whatever the style—are shined. What’s new in jeans this season? Various deep colors. I want to stay warm and look great this winter. What’s my best outerwear option? Anything from Canada Goose. For a more sophisticated look, a butter-soft leather with down from Di Bello. Clean shaven or facial hair? Clean shaven. What must I buy this season? A sophisticated muted windowpane suit is a great addition to your wardrobe.

What do I need to be the boss of business casual? I always wear a blazer to make it look sharp. If you were a superhero, which one would you be and why? The Green Hornet, because he always wear a suit. Hard or soft luggage? Soft luggage. University of Kansas research reveals that people can make an accurate assumption based on checking out your shoes, and I want to make a great impression. What do you suggest I buy? A nice pair of lace-up brown shoes. What’s new in jeans this season? Distressed boot-cut jeans. I want to stay warm and look great this winter. What’s my best outerwear option? A down coat for sure. Clean shaven or facial hair? Clean shaven. What must I buy this season? A turtleneck sweater.

What do I need to be the boss of business casual? Set guidelines on your dress code before it gets out of control by becoming too casual. Hard or soft luggage? Soft. University of Kansas research reveals that people can make an accurate assumption based on checking out your shoes, and I want to make a great impression. What do you suggest I buy? A polished wingtip monk strap loafer in chestnut. What’s new in jeans this season? Rugged jeans in earth tones. I want to stay warm and look great this winter. What’s my best outerwear option? Get goosed with Canada Goose. Clean shaven or facial hair? Clean shaven. What must I buy this season? Soft constructed Isaia sportcoat.

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room key

st. barts:

a beauty on the beach Luxury has a Gallic accent at the Cheval Blanc St.-Barth Isle de France. By Rita Guarna

I

From top, Should you tire of relaxing on the beach, a tranquil pool awaits at the Cheval Blanc St.-Barth Isle de France. Enjoy cocktails for two with a breathtaking view from this private ocean-facing perch.

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f the Hotel St.-Barth Isle de France were a woman, you could say she married well. French luxury brand LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy) could have its choice of lovely “mademoiselles” when searching for a suitable match in North America, but the boutique hotel on Anse des Flamands, probably the prettiest beach on the island, won out and after a year-long engagement (read: renovation), it joined the exalted Cheval Blanc family. (Other family members include Courchevel in France and Randheli in the Maldives.) Perhaps the best part of the union is that it appears that little has changed at the beloved hotel, now called the Cheval Blanc St.-Barth Isle de France. The staff—the hotel’s heart and soul—remains the same: affable, accommodating to a fault and decidedly French. The only difference is that now they don charming seersucker uniforms. Similar too are the guest quarters—40 suites, bungalows and villas, which feel less like hotel rooms than the bedrooms of a Provençal family. The whitewashed country furnishings have been upgraded with the brand’s signature taupe plus accents of the palest salmon-pink, which you’ll find on everything from beach towels to pillows to glassware. Thankfully, the popular daily fashion shows remain too. They feature resort wear from the hotel’s closet-sized boutique stuffed with everything from Pucci bikinis and stylish caftans to straw hats and jewelry. Don’t be surprised if the model, Roxane, looks familiar: When she’s not strolling the sandy catwalk, she’s taking your dinner order in a charmingly halting English. Oh, yes, the food. As a French territory, St. Barts not surprisingly has a cuisine that reminds you of dining in the south of France. Chef Yann Vinsot oversees a pair of excellent eateries on this property: La Case de L’Isle, featuring sophisticated FrenchCaribbean plates (plus a 150-odd selection of wines and champagnes) and the more casual La Cabane de L’Isle, site of the fashion shows. Only eight miles across, St. Barts (short for St. Barthélemy and sometimes spelled St. Barth) is a hilly (thanks to a number of volcanic peaks) speck popping out of the northeast Caribbean in the French West Indies. Discovered by Christopher Columbus in 1493 (who named it for his brother Bartolomeo), the island was settled by the French and owned for a while by Sweden before returning to French control. It became chichi

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after the Rockefellers and Rothschilds fell for its charm in the mid-’50s. With no direct flights, getting to St. Barts isn’t easy. Some folks fly to St. Maarten and take a short flight or ferry across. A more civilized crossing (read: easier) is flying to San Juan, then boarding a tiny puddle jumper. One of Tradewind Aviation’s multiple daily flights will do nicely. Its Pilatus PC-12s are comfortable and sturdy—important features as the eight-seater threads between two jagged peaks before touching down on a teensy runway. (Flights from St. Thomas and Antigua are also available.) While the atmosphere is relaxed, folks do dress to impress while shopping or dining in the capital city, Gustavia, with its yacht-lined harbor. (The island hosts one of the world’s most thrilling yacht races, Les Voiles de St. Barth.) Luxury brands abound along with unique boutiques, often outposts of exclusive Parisian designers. Prefer to test your sea legs with a more gentle cruise? Rent a catamaran with crew for a day-long or half-day tour. Our captain, Miguel of St. Barth Sailor, anchored in the bay near Colombier, where we swam to the beach (the only one of 16 beaches not easily accessible), after which we sipped champagne and nibbled on a gourmet lunch prepared by Cheval Blanc (lest we miss the restaurants’ gastronomic delights too much). Back on terra firma, we proceeded to Bonito, where fashionistas flock to enjoy a delicious Latin American menu alongside unrivaled views of the harbor from an open-air pavilion. If your “cruise” doesn’t offer enough of a respite, the spa back at Cheval Blanc will chase away any lingering stress. It offers signature Guerlain treatments. (It’s the only Guerlain spa in the Caribbean.) Try the Solar Escape, a body massage combined with a facial, or let a beauty coach choose an indulgent experience for you. Do you think you could enjoy an island with no casinos, no all-inclusives, no cruise ships in port? An island with no poverty, no crime, no beach vendors? With unfailingly polite people, awe-inspiring vistas, white sand (or shell or stone) beaches and top-notch cuisine? I do. Clockwise from top, a private pool, one of the many amenities of the tucked-away Garden Suites; modeling the statement-making fashions available at the tony boutique; snorkeling in the blue waters of the Caribbean right in the resort’s backyard; the ultimate in luxury: a three-bedroom villa set on the white sand beach; salade niçoise, perfect for a light lunch.

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look good, keep well

Oh, Joe!

A new study found that folks who drank four or more cups of caffeinated coffee (about two Grandes at Starbucks) had a 25 percent lower risk of developing melanoma, the most dangerous form of skin cancer, over 10 years. Researchers theorize that something in the roasting process produces vitamins that may protect against UVB damage. —Journal of the National Cancer Institute

Go ahead, daydream

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It might just help you multitask. Turns out daydreamers have a better working memory, which helps you retain and recall details— even in the midst of distractions.

minutes

—University of WisconsinMadison

43%

Eat fruit, veggies first

Believe it or not, the first food you select from a buffet triggers what you’ll take next—and how much. So say researchers who studied 124 diners. Head to the salad and fruit first, and you’ll be less likely to sabotage your day’s eating. —Plos One

Cuff ’em

The only way to get a truly accurate blood pressure reading is to cuff both arms. When a person’s systolic pressure varies by 10 or more points between arms, the risk of heart attack or stroke increases 38 percent. Plus, a big difference between arms could be a sign of peripheral artery disease, or clogged arteries. —American Journal of Medicine

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Spending this much time doing resistance training could improve your long-term memory by as much as 10 percent. —Acta Psychologica

The percentage increase in the number of men going to plastic surgeons for both surgical and nonsurgical procedures in 2015 thus far. —American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery

Beware the grouch

Did you know that a negative attitude can be passed along from one person to another just like the flu? Apparently, we mimic each other’s nonverbal cues, then internalize them, making them our own. Of course, we can’t always steer clear of a sourpuss, thus the best move: Do not engage. —University of Notre Dame

Beet it to low blood pressure

Drinking just one cup of beet juice every day can lower blood pressure in people with hypertension, according to recent research. Study participants’ systolic blood pressure (the top number, which measures the pressure in your arteries as your heart beats) dropped 8 points. Diastolic BP (the bottom number, which measures pressure between heartbeats) dropped 2 to 5 points. The reason? Beetroot contains high levels of nitrate, which the body converts to nitric oxide, which in turn improves blood flow and relaxes arteries. —Hypertension

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Syd Jerome: Fall/Winter 2015  
Syd Jerome: Fall/Winter 2015  

Syd Jerome: Fall/Winter 2015