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STAGE toTABLE Hell’s Kitchen’s favorite concierge, Stephen Field, is back, celebrating the revival of a historic space, disagreeing with the critics, and getting down and dirty in Bushwick
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ll of us in HK feel the blessing and the curse of urban renewal and development. Whether it’s the 9th Avenue Bistro disappearing after 70 years and Dunkin’ Donuts opening in its place, or The Big Apple Market being demolished and then thankfully reappearing down the block, we’ve all been affected by a mainstay of the neighborhood shutting its doors. Several years ago I was heartbroken by the announcement that Cafe Edison would be closing. It had been in business for 34 years but, due to its historic location in an elaborately decorated (albeit rundown and painted over) ballroom, it felt as though it had been there forever. I mourned the loss of the blintzes, the matzo ball soup, the low prices, and the resounding clanks and bangs that incessantly occurred in what became my favorite diner. It was the only place I ever ordered a ham and swiss on rye – simply because they called it the “Theatre Special Sandwich.” I thought was perfect. I fretted over what horrific Times Square abomination would ruin the space, gut it of its history, and fill it with tourists and loud music. Then it was announced that Friedman’s would open at the location and most of my fears recoiled. Their emphasis on gluten-free comfort foods is notable, and though they offer some takes on Eastern European classics that were featured at Cafe Edison, they stand out more for the fried chicken and waffles, the tamarind BBQ short ribs, and the traditional breakfast menu. It took just over two years, but they finally opened in the last week of October. All the original detail has been painstakingly restored, including the famous wall appliques and the small upper balcony. By moving the kitchen to the back, there is now an open quality that
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“I mourned the loss of the blintzes, the matzo ball soup, the low prices, and the resounding clanks and bangs that incessantly occurred in what became my favorite diner.”
Above: M Butterfly has had mixed reviews from the critics – but what does Stephen think?
reflects the ballroom’s history and shows off how huge the room actually is. The menu is Friedman’s fare, with all the noshes we were expecting, including a pastrami reuben that doesn’t quite equal the previous establishment’s but is still an indulgent treat. My only qualms are that the booths and seating are neither accurate to the original period nor modern enough to offset the decor, and the lighting is on the cold side and will most likely need to be adjusted. That said, nothing will ever possess the charm, grit, and heart of Cafe Edison, but Friedman’s looks to be on track for a good, long run at this location. A few moments into the overture of The Band’s Visit, I knew I was being taken on a journey to somewhere I’d never been
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