W42ST Issue 57 - The Style Issue

w42st

ISSUE 57 SEPTEMBER 2019

IMAGINATION TAKES FLIGHT AT THE INTREPID MUSEUM

Photos: Rob Tannenbaum; Christine Butler; Erika Kapin.

Visit the Intrepid Sea, Air & Space Museum to discover history and science through our exhibits and innovative programs.

JOIN US FOR FREE FRIDAY S!

#IntrepidFree Fridays

FREE FRIDAYS September 27, 5:00–9:00pm

Free Fridays continue with after-hours programming including special Spanish-language education demos and engaging STEM talks and activities.

Learn more at IntrepidMuseum.org/FreeFridays

ALSO ON DECK INTREPID ADVENTURES September 1, 21 & 22, Noon Join us for enrichment programs designed to provide children, their siblings and parents/caregivers an opportunity to have fun and learn together. Ages 5–12. Register in advance.

MEMBERS NIGHT September 9, 6:00–9:00pm Experience the Museum after hours, exclusively for members and their guests. Enjoy talks, free simulator rides and behindthe-scenes access to our collection. To learn more about becoming a member, visit IntrepidMuseum.org/Membership.

ACCESS FAMILY PROGRAM September 15, 11:00am–1:00pm (Children, ages 5–17); 2:00pm–4:00pm (Teens & adults, ages 14+) This program, for individuals with developmental or learning disabilities and their families, will explore the Intrepid Museum’s aircraft collection. Learn about our high-speed jets, including the supersonic A-12 and British Airways Concorde, then experiment with plane design. Free. Advanced registration required.

INNOVATORS September 27, 7:30pm (doors open at 7:00pm) Learn how New York State—particularly Upstate New York— is becoming an important hub in the new space economy.

Meet a few of the innovators leading the rise of the new Empire State. Beer and wine available for purchase with valid ID. Free. 21+. Register in advance. This is part of Intrepid Free Fridays.

EARLY MORNING OPENING September 28, 9:00am-11:00am Children (ages 3–18) with autism and their families will explore the British Airways Concorde, the A-12 and other supersonic jets at the Intrepid Museum. Learn what it was like to fly and land supersonic planes and experiment with plane design through hands-on activities. Free. Advanced registration required.

VISIT INTREPIDMUSEUM.ORG FOR MORE INFORMATION AND A FULL SCHEDULE OF EVENTS!

PIER 86, WEST 46TH ST & 12TH AVE intrepidmuseum.org

2019 © Intrepid Museum Foundation. All Rights Reserved. Except as permitted under applicable law, this work may not be copied, published, disseminated, displayed, performed or played without permission of the copyright holder.

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There’s a common misconception when it comes to style. That it’s all about fashion.

The clothes we wear. What we do with our hair. The jaunty angle of a hat, perhaps, or an effortless way with an accessory.

And it can be all of those things ... but a whole lot more besides.

It’s how we choose to live our lives. It’s the message we send out to the world about who we are when we do what we do.

This issue celebrates that – from Anna Sui to Diana Vreeland, and a whole lot of style in between.

I hope you enjoy.

Ruth Walker Editor Sign up to my newsletter at w42st.com THE TEAM THAT BROUGHT YOU W42ST

PUBLISHER PHIL O’BRIEN

EDITOR RUTH WALKER

phil@w42st.com (646) 267-9028

SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR SANDRA MANGAN

ruth@w42st.com (646) 847-9645

FOUNDING EDITOR SIMON KIRRANE

sandra@w42st.com

SENIOR ART EDITOR LEE CAPLE

PARTNERSHIP DIRECTOR DREW DARGIS

lee@w42st.com

AMBASSADOR HERSHEY MILLER

drew@w42st.com (646) 896-9562

CONTRIBUTORS

DANE LACHIUSA KRISTEN JONGEN CLAUDIA CHUNG SOPHIA STRAWSER

VANESSA ETIENNE MICHAEL MUÑOZ ELIZABETH DURAND STREISAND CHELSEY HILL

NATE BOZEMAN CHARLES DUSTIN SAMMANN YANI MONZÓN ILONA LIEBERMAN CID ROBERTS

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher ©2019. Please note: Every effort has been made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions in this publication. However, if you spot one please accept our sincere apologies.

CONTENTS September Edition

24

PEOPLE

12 WEST SIDE STORY

28 GLOVE CONQUERS

15 EVENTS

33 KITCHEN COUTURE

Fashion professor Dean Sidaway leads the class of 2019.

Our pick of the big events you MUST see.

17 SOBER IN THE CITY

Could “letting go” be the hot new, must-wear accessory?

18 SUI SUCCESS

How the only remaining glove factory in the city managed to survive.

Street style on the streets of the Kitchen – with added relish.

58 GALLERY

Hashtag your Instagram photographs #W42ST to get involved.

From Madonna to the Duchess of Cambridge ... we look inside the Museum of Art and Design’s major retrospective for Anna Sui.

66 LAST WORD

24 CAN YOU KICK IT?

34 VEGAN TRENDING

The rock n roll boots that are made in Manhattan.

The great Diana Vreeland on why bad taste is better than no taste at all.

EAT

It’s the fastest growing food trend – but is it really as healthy as we think?

GRATITUDE TO OUR BRILLIANT, VISIONARY PARTNERS

Their commitment keeps W42ST free for everyone else to enjoy. Please support them with your love and your business 34th St Partnership

Daryl Roth Advertising

Gavios Realty Group

Hibernia Bar

MCC Theater

Pure KTCHN

Baire Hair Removal

Ensemble Studio

Gotham Mini Storage

Hudson River Park Trust

New Victory Theater

Scruffy Duffy’s

Times Square Alliance

Specialists

Theatre

Grand Central Partnership

HYHK Alliance

Noble People

StreetEasy

The Marshal

Barcade

Fine & Dandy

Hafetz & Associates

Intrepid Museum

OrganizeNY

TF Cornerstone

Title Boxing

Best Friends Animal Society

Fountain House Gallery

Heart of Chelsea Animal

Jadite Picture Framing

Perdition

The Artist Co-op

Vitality Medaesthetics

Body Factory Skin Care

Frank M Burke

Hospital

Manhattan Kayak + SUP

PRINT

The Dyksterhouse Team

Wells Fargo

Compass

Fresh From Hell

Hell’s Creative

Mark Fisher Fitness

P.S. Kitchen

The Press Lounge

WNET

Binge

ALL ARTS. ONE CHANNEL.

NOW ACCESSIBLE ANYWHERE FOR FREE. CHECK LOCAL LISTINGS

JAMES BALDWIN

In 1979 on WNET’s City Edition

POWERED BY PUBLIC MEDIA

ALLARTS.ORG

37 PLAYLIST

A reporter’s go-to places to eat, drink, and play in the neighborhood.

38 THE KITCHEN GAILY

What the best-looking food is wearing, and where to find it.

41 DAYLIST

A designer’s top spots – including his pick of the Garment District.

OUT

42 ARIA FOR MY LOVER

An operatic life – from teen delinquent to prolific composer (via AIDS and sobriety).

46 GIRL FROM OZ

The dresser from Wicked who has a whole other sideline online.

LIVING

48 ARTPARTMENT

When your vast art collection outgrows

18 COVER ARTISTS Photographer Charles Dustin Sammann and

64 34

stylist Yani Monzón Calero are a still life photo team, recently transitioned to New York from the high deserts of Santa Fe, New Mexico.

Being fresh to the city, they can’t wait

28

to photograph everything that is static with aesthetic. They previously created the May food issue cover. www.stoodstill. com

your wall space ... you just turn it into a gallery.

55 HEY NEIGHBOR!

She gave up a sh*t ton of space on the Upper West Side to return to the Kitchen.

56 HOME COMFORTS

When fashion brands have designs on our apartments.

STYLE

60 BODY SWERVE

Sophia Strawser samples all the new fitness foods – so you don’t have to.

63 PRETTY LITTLE RING

The one piece of vintage jewelry Claudia can’t bear to wear.

PETS

64 WAGGING TALES

Two pages of Hell’s Kitchen’s most handsome pets. Get involved by emailing waggingtales@w42st.com.

September 27, October 25 11

11

WEST SIDE STORIES

12

DIGITAL EDITION

WEST SIDE STORIES

THE FUTURE OF

FASHION Fashion professor Dean Sidaway talks Kate Bush, 1970s horror, and sustainability Why I’m here

I moved to New York to take a position as professor in fashion at Pratt Institute.

After living in Brooklyn for a year, I wanted to move to Manhattan, and was looking at apartments in various areas – Chinatown, Little Italy, Murray Hill, Greenwich Village, etc. A friend of a friend had a place in Hell’s Kitchen, and they were leaving the area. I came to see the apartment that evening, she took me to Flaming Saddles, and I was sold!

Why I stay

I love the community aspect – how it still feels like a village in the middle of Manhattan – plus the choice of good restaurants and bars, being close to the Hudson to see the sunsets, and the 9th Avenue International Food Festival.

The best bit about living here

All of the above … and the proximity to Central Park.

And the worst

Times Square and the seemingly endless roadworks on 9th Ave.

IMAGE: NATE BOZEMAN @NATEBOZE

My go-to places

Mom’s Kitchen and Bar for brunch and a Bloody Mary, Huascar & Co Bakeshop (I gravitate to their Lavender Fields or Pistachio Raspberry macarons, but look out for their seasonal creations), Totto Ramen, and 9th Ave Saloon, UT47 for coffee, friendly service, and a relaxing atmosphere. And El Centro and Flaming Saddles when friends come to visit.

My design aesthetic

I’d describe it as dark, romantic, nostalgic. The influence of film and music are important for me, and 1970s horror and Kate Bush are a constant mine of inspiration.

The people I admire in the industry

Aesthetically, I’m a huge fan of Maison Martin Margiela (pre Galliano, but I love what he’s doing too), Marni, and Dries Van Noten. I admire new designers in the industry who have the tenacity and desire to break new ground in design and form. Exciting New York talents right now include NIHL and Christopher John Rogers.

The future of fashion

Fashion houses/brands/designers all have to rethink their approach to production and design. Carbon emissions, chemical runoff, and the growth of landfills are the responsibility of all of us as consumers.

If designers took action from the beginning, however small, a change would start. London-based Phoebe English is a great example of an independent designer achieving and constantly striving to create sustainable and desirable design for men and women while challenging and re-imagining the existing systems.

Busy doing n0thing

My husband Nate and I created n0thing editions as a platform for our ever-

DIGITAL EDITION

Opposite: Xxxxxx

BIO

Dean Sidaway is a Hell’s Kitchen-based designer and educator.

Pieces from his current collection are available at Bishop Collective, 143 Ludlow St. deansidaway. com DEAN’S HK Mom’s Kitchen, 9th Ave 48th St Huascar & Co, W54th St 9th/10th Ave Totto Ramen, W52nd St 8th/9th Ave 9th Ave Saloon, 9th Ave 45th/46th St UT47, W47th St - 8th/9th Ave El Centro, 9th Ave - 54th St Flaming Saddles, 9th Ave 52nd/53rd St

growing, creative community to showcase their work as part of an annual affordable, rotating publication.

It started on an evening with knitwear designer Olivia Eaton, jewelry designer Robin Mollicone, and I discussing contemporary art and design, the direction and growth of online over printed publications, and the nostalgia of the excitement in my youth waiting for Vogue Italia/The Face/i-D etc to arrive and to consume the content. Cliché as it sounds, the waiting and discovery of the information was as exciting as the consumption.

In a time of immediate accessibility and a wealth of often overwhelming visual information, n0thing editions is a quieter and more personal way to discover new artists in art, design, and craft, and own original prints of work.

Each edition comes in a different format and each print is hand numbered as we produce only 50 of each.

What’s getting me excited creatively right now

I’ve launched a new, seasonless collection of clothing titled ‘Handle With Care’ and am developing additional pieces, which is fuelling my creativity. I’ve also recently been appointed creative director of Cate Brown, a luxury, sustainably sourced homeware brand. The first collection is a curation of bespoke made cushions from vintage garments, and working with Cate and her team has been a great fusion of fashion and interiors experience – I’m excited to see where we can take this.

My HK happy place

In our apartment, a pizza delivery from Patzeria Family and Friends. My husband Nate will encourage yellow cake with pink frosting (because it’s a birthday/the weekend/Wednesday ... delete as appropriate) from Amy’s Bread.

There has been so much talk of food in this interview, we both have a gym membership which is rarely (never) used and, as I reread my answers, I’m grabbing my shorts and we’re both heading there now ...!

13

EAT RIGHT, FEEL GREAT

OR ORDER ON

What’s On

NEWS September 2019

Wives

The Wrong Man

The pitch goes something like this: from the brawny castles of 16th-century France, to the rugged plains of 1960s Idaho, to the strapping fortresses of 1920s India, all hail the remarkable stories of Great Men! And their whiny, witchy, vapid, vengeful, jealous wives. Patriarchal cliché gets a whipping in Jaclyn Backhaus’ time-hopping comedy, eventually untethering stories and history — and language itself — from the visions made by men. Playing until October. playwrightshorizons.org

A new musical reuniting the Tony-winning talents of Hamilton’s Thomas Kail and Alex Lacamoire, telling the story of a man framed for a murder he didn’t commit. Opening on September 18. mcctheater.org

The Rose Tattoo

Set in a sultry New Orleans, Tennessee Williams’ lesserknown play stars Marisa Tomei as a widow who rekindles her desire for love, lust, and life in the arms of a fiery suitor. HOT! Previews begin September 19 at the American Airlines Theatre. roundabouttheatre.org

Betrayal

Tom Hiddleston, Zawe Ashton, and Charlie Cox star in the Harold Pinter tale of marital dysfunction. Coming to the Jacobs Theater and opening on September 5. betrayalonbroadway.com

Margaret Atwood

The author of The Handmaid’s Tale comes to The Town Hall on September 20 to discuss the book’s sequel, The Testaments. thetownhall.org

Ru Paul’s Drag Con

Art, pop culture, and all things drag come to Javits for three days of fabulousness, from September 6-8. Mother herself will be there, along with Acid Betty, Dusty Ray Bottoms, Honey Davenport, and many more. rupaulsdragcon.com

ILLUSTRATION: DANE LACHIUSA

The Height Of The Storm

This portrait of an unraveling marriage and a loving relationship faced with the inevitability of change stars Jonathan Pryce and Eileen Atkins. Previews start at the Samuel J Friedman theater on September 10, with an opening night on September 24. manhattantheatreclub.com

Freestyle Love Supreme Lin-Manuel Miranda’s hip-hop

The Inheritance

New York Fashion Week

Runways across the city – not to mention the urban runway otherwise known as the sidewalk – come alive from September 6 through 14. It’s called fashion, friends. Look it up. nyfw.com improv show comes to the Booth for a limited run after a sold-out run Off-Broadway. Previews begin September 13. freestylelovesupreme.com

Scotland, PA

Loosely based on the grim tragedy of Macbeth, this dark new musical comedy is set in

DIGITAL EDITION

a sleepy Pennsylvania town, where a burger-joint manager and his wife cook up a plan to super-size their lives. But as their ambitions grow and the bodies fall, they find out just how far they’ll go for a taste of the American dream. Previews begin September 14. roundabouttheatre.org

Stephen Daldry (Billy Elliot and The Crown) directs this epic two-parter that sets EM Forster’s Howards End in 21st-century New York, interlinking the lives of three generations of gay men.

Previews begin at the Ethel Barrymore Theatre on September 27. theinheritanceplay.com

New York Film Festival

The annual film extravaganza at Lincoln Center opens with a fanfare on September 27 with Martin Scorsese’s The Irishman, is sandwiched in the middle by Noah Baumbach’s Marriage Story, and closes two weeks later with Edward Norton’s Motherless Brooklyn. filmlinc.org

We cordially invite you and your pets to our Hell’s Kitchen location

OPEN HOUSE September 22nd | 12.00pm - 3.00pm 453 West 46th Street NY, NY 10036

Please join us for a tour of our third Heart of Chelsea Veterinary Group location in Hell’s Kitchen.

Meet our staff and enjoy food, drinks, games, raffles, and more!

PEOPLE

A sobriety sandwich After a week of righteous indignation, would Kristen Jongen get the revenge she craves?

F

olks, last month was rough. Maybe some of you can relate? I was hooked on an injustice that I could not extricate myself from. I was hopelessly down the rabbit hole of self-righteous indignation. As far as character defects are concerned, this one is my favorite.

I needed a miracle. I called a friend looking for a sober reference. My wish was granted because I was reminded of a dude called Al. Al is an oldtimer from my 12 step program. A genuine badass, with decades of sobriety, he tells a mind-bending story about the extreme steps he took to get and stay sober. The following is one of my favorite stories.

In an attempt to save his marriage, Al had promised his wife, one last time, that he would quit drinking and stay out of jail.

Very early in Al’s recovery, he was at work on a Monday and could not find his packed lunch. He checked his locker, refrigerator, his car and everywhere for the sandwich he remembered making earlier that morning. He came up empty.

Frustrated, he brought his lunch the following day and wrote his

name on the bag. It went mysteriously missing again.

By the third day, he was livid and on a mission to catch the thief. He could not focus at work. He was so blinded by rage that he crafted a plan to strangle the culprit with a rope (did I mention that Al had a teeny tiny anger management problem?).

By Friday, Al lay in wait in the hallway and, peeking through the doorway, caught the thief redhanded. He then realized he was stuck.

Afraid of what he might do, he ran back into the hallway to call his sponsor. Al screamed into the payphone: ”I’m going to kill him!

Can you believe this fucking guy? It’s MY lunch.

I’ve gone hungry for four days because of this asshole!”

He felt trapped because he wanted to seek vengeance but didn’t want his wife to leave him, to get drunk, or go to jail again. He ranted for ten minutes and eventually yelled into the phone: ”Aren’t you going to say something?”

His sponsor offered calmly: “Why don’t you make two sandwiches?”

The first time I heard that story, I was in no way prepared for an ending that included making two sandwiches. I hoped Al would grind the bologna into the guy’s face, or

IMAGE: JULIO NUNYO

‘Do you want to be right, or do you want to be sane?’

DIGITAL EDITION

About

KRISTEN

An internationally recognized author, artist, and motivational speaker, Kristen has written and published two books. She is the voice behind Soul Soup Inc, inspirational books, prints, and greeting cards. Follow Kristen on Instagram @ KristenJongen, If you’re having difficulty with drugs and alcohol, find support meetings at nyinter group.org

learn that the lunch was for an orphaned child.

The sponsor followed with: “Do you want to be right, or do you want to be sane?”

Desperate and out of his mind, Al begrudgingly made two sandwiches the next day. He found the guilty party in the hall, grabbed him by the collar and told him that he made him his own sandwich and would kill him if he touched his. The thief didn’t have much to say except that he was low on money and hungry. Al made two lunches for one week and, eventually, the guy started bringing his own.

Mercy was Al’s superpower.

Grace is the anti-climatic ending.

Surrendering my self-righteous indignation is not my style. Not only is it not my style, but I have to be painted so tightly into a corner (going to jail and getting divorced) before I am willing to do what is required to set myself free.

Is there someone in your life you are holding as an emotional hostage? Have you imprisoned both of you to preserve your righteousness?

This month, as we evaluate style, this may be our biggest challenge. At a time in American history, when there is so much fear, we could use a spiritual makeover. For the price of a sandwich, this might be the best accessory we can buy.

Go for the white flag, You are fabulous.

Your friend,

Kristen 17

THE

IMAGE: THOMAS LAU

STYLE ISSUE

DIGITAL EDITION

THE

STYLE ISSUE

Bohemian

LIKE YOU

Anna Sui is the subject of a major retrospective this month – but why her, and why now?

B

Words Ruth Walker

arbara Paris Gifford emerges from the elevator as if on a cloud. Her dress – all floaty, pale flowers – is the definition of boho chic and, in the oppressive summer heat, she manages to look effortlessly cool.

God damn her!

“It’s Anna,” she explains. By which she means Anna Sui, the New York fashion designer who, for most of her 30-plus career, has worked from a studio just a few blocks away, in the Garment District. And who, this month, will be the subject of a major retrospective at the museum.

“She's been on my radar for a very long time,” says the curator for the exhibition at the Museum of Art and Design. “I’ve been a fan of hers since ...”

She can’t quite put her finger on the moment she first discovered the designer. But when she was in graduate school in the 1990s, she based her

DIGITAL EDITION

entire bedroom on the one of Sui’s she’d seen in Elle Decor. “It was lavender with dark trim everywhere, and she had this really wonderful embroidered bedspread, or maybe it was a shawl – it was all effortless. There were millions of embroidered pillows on it, and it just looked like a Bohemian paradise. I had to copy it.”

All of which goes some way to explaining why – with such a shared aesthetic – they had such a good time working together on the exhibition.

“We even showed up to some meetings wearing the same thing!”

Born in Detroit to French-educated Chinese immigrants, Sui knew she wanted to be a fashion designer by the time she was four years old. After moving to New York to study at Parsons, she launched her own label from her apartment, with just $300 to her name.

Her big break came in 1991, when Madonna, at the height of her fame

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PHOTOGRAPH: CHARLES DUSTIN SAMMANN STYLING YANISLEI MONZÓN CALERO (STOODSTILL.COM)

THE

STYLE ISSUE

DIGITAL EDITION

THE

IMAGE: THOMAS LAU

STYLE ISSUE

(Truth Or Dare was released in the May of that year), wore one of Sui’s dresses to the Jean Paul Gaultier runway show in Paris. The world suddenly wanted to know who Anna Sui was.

Since then, she’s been worn by everyone from Mick Jagger to the Duchess of Cambridge, and has collaborated with brands as diverse as Opening Ceremony and Target, Hello Kitty and Google. She was awarded the CFDA's Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award in 2009.

Barbara guesses she owns around eight pieces designed by Sui. “Oh, I wish I owned more,” she says, “I really do. But I'm not a person who keeps a lot of clothing. I have a typical New York closet, so it's only in there if it's working hard.”

But it takes more than a hard-working closet to bring a major retrospective to New York City. So why Anna? And why now?

The first reason, says Barbara, “is that we believe in her as a designer. She is a wonderful success story of a Chinese American designer that we feel really proud and happy to be celebrating.”

The second reason is more practical; one of timing and opportunity. Two years ago, London’s Fashion and Textile Museum hosted the first ever retrospective dedicated to the designer.

And, after building a relationship with Sui – first through an exhibition on Ralph Pucci, the mannequin maker (who is a close friend of the designer),

then through the more recent exhibition Counter Couture (which Sui was so addicted to she saw it five times), Barbara began the negotiations that would bring the retrospective to Sui’s home town. “She really wanted the show to come New York, so I worked a good year or so in bringing it here,” she says.

“But a lot of revision needs to happen whenever you switch a space, let alone an audience.

They are the Fashion and Textile Museum, so their specialty is fashion, and we are an arts and design museum with a craft heritage, so straight away the narrative has to change a bit.

But, at the same time, all of the backdrops that Anna's ever used in her fashion shows are here.

All of the furniture and interiors that are so key to defining her fashion boutique aesthetic are here. All of her original designs and mood boards are here. So it was a really wonderful opportunity to put them in their exact context for visitors.”

Above: Shades of russet for fall 2013.

Opposite: A papier mache head and hat that were a signature element of the Anna Sui boutique aesthetic. Opening page: Sui's spring 2012 collection.

“All of the furniture and interiors that are so key to defining her fashion boutique aesthetic are here. All of her original designs and mood boards are here.”

DIGITAL EDITION

The show will incorporate 73 outfits, along with items from Sui’s own collection: a table from her store (which used to be in her dining room); her Tiffany lamps; the papier mache dolls’ heads she made for her first store; posters of Aubrey Beardsley, an illustrator who has played a major part in her aesthetic.

There will be also be a mannequin of Diana Vreeland, made by Greer Lankton, which Sui acquired from Barneys, and which she would dress up whenever visitors came around. As it became more fragile, she donated it to The Met. The narrative, meanwhile, will focus on Sui’s New York influences and, in particular, how storytelling – the interweaving of poetry, books, films, fairy tales, and pop iconography – informs her process.

“In 2018,” explains Barbara, "she was very inspired by our Counter Couture show. There was a video of a cult in northern California. They had all their flowy fashions on, and she was very taken with it.

"So she’ll start with something like that, and then she'll find out what designers, or what artists, or what films, or what fashion magazines, or what insider things were going on at the time, and then she'll go off on that tangent. That will lead her to a certain visual language, which will then eventually take her to making textiles, and exploring forms, and so on and so forth. That's typically the way that she will work, where she sees something, it's very inspiring, and then she goes down the rabbit hole in terms of the details of that moment. She never stays on top of it, but goes deep into it.”

A regular at the Hell’s Kitchen flea market (until it ended last summer), she’s “a pack rat” when it comes to collecting. “Her office is just packed with vintage pieces that she uses for reference. In fact, vintage dealers will come to Anna wanting to buy – to take a peek at that closet.”

And she remains a strong supporter of the Garment District and the artisans who work there. “Anna knows everybody. She's watched a lot of those resources and hand skills leave, and

21

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IMAGE: JERRY SCHATZBERG

COMING TO THE MET

was very saddened by it because a lot of the craftsmanship is what makes her pieces very special. These people are her friends and she very much wants to keep them in business. So she'll actually design something with a particular maker in mind so that she can keep that person going.”

Despite all those influences, however, the signature Sui look remains that of cool rock chick. “I think it has a lot to do with that Bohemian girlfriend of Mick Jagger or Keith Richards,” says Barbara.

“It's that really cool, Bohemian-looking person who seems to have just slipped something on, but it all looks completely

Below: Illustrations for spring 2017

"I think she's always looking for that special something those people had, what made people like Janis Joplin so special, and translating that into her work." fabulous and goes together, even though it's a million different patterns in a million different colors.

“When she was young, she used to go to a lot of rock concerts, and the looks of all the people that were there just left this mark on her. I think she's always looking for that special something those people had, what made people like Janis Joplin so special, and trying to translate that into her collection.”

The World of Anna Sui is at MAD September 12 - February 23 (madmuseum.org)

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The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art has announced that its fall exhibition will center around the collection of Sandy Schreier, whose half-a-century collection of luxury clothing was thought to be one of the finest in the US. Schreier's interest in fashion began as a child, when she would accompany her father to work at Russeks, the Detroit branch of the New York store.

Here, she'd rub shoulders with some of the city's most fashionable women.

Recognizing her passion, some would gift her pieces of couture, but she would keep them as art, rather than wear them.

"I always saw myself as a fashion savior," she said. "My passion for fashion as an art form drove me to search for the most innovative, creative, and breathtaking objects by well-known and lesser-known talents. I am elated that these pieces will now live on as my legacy at The Met, where they can be conserved and shared with the public, designers, and scholars for eternity."

Included in the collection are pieces

by Cristóbal Balenciaga, Pierre Balmain, Chanel, Dior, Stephen Jones, Karl Lagerfeld, Jeanne Lanvin, Isaac Mizrahi, Philip Treacy, Madeleine Vionnet, and many, many more.

"Amassed through a deep passion for the art of fashion — as well as sheer determination — Sandy's gift will introduce rare designs into our holdings, allowing us to tell a more nuanced story of fashion history through the achievements of its most innovative designers," said Andrew Bolton, curator in charge of The Costume Institute.

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PHOTOGRAPH: CHARLES DUSTIN SAMMANN STYLING YANISLEI MONZÓN CALERO (STOODSTILL.COM)

STYLE ISSUE

“I have lawyers who wear the boots in the courtroom. They tell me they’re the most comfortable boots they have.”

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THESE BOOTS WERE MADE FOR ROCKING Shoe heaven is a place in Midtown …

Words Ruth Walker Photographs Ilona Lieberman

B

oots with buckles. Boots with zips. Red patent boots with a silver star.

Silver boots with a Ziggy Stardust lightning bolt.

Studded boots. Snakeskin boots.

If Cinderella had been a rock n roll rebel, who left the prince at the stuffy, old ball and went out to a club with Debbie Harry instead, she’d have worn Modern Vice. And she’d have stayed out way past midnight.

She’d have been in good company.

Modern Vice shoes are rocked by the likes of Luke Hemmings (of 5 Seconds of Summer), Julia Cumming (of Sunflower Bean), and Natasha Lyonne (currently starring in Netflix’s Russian Doll).

And at the helm of this style empire, working from a small factory on W38th St – their office crammed with leather samples and shoe molds (and fielding calls from stylists and buyers as we talk) – are Jordan Adoni and his business partner Kenneth Wolk.

Above: Shoe molds in the factory. Below: Roger Estrada at work on the uppers; snakeskin or silver, anyone?

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“You have very, very good days and great years and you have very, very tough times, but you do it because you love it. Shoes become an obsession.”

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“My father had a very popular brand in the 70s and 80s called LJ Simone,” says Jordan. “We had a shoe factory in Queens, and a lot of famous people in the shoe industry worked there (Steve Madden started out as a salesman before launching his $2.6 billion company).

My mother owned a shoe store in Long Island. And my uncle was also in the shoe business.”

So it's fair to say that footwear is in his DNA. Wasn’t he ever tempted to say

goodbye to the family game and do his own thing?

“Every day!” he says. “Every day! The shoe business is not easy. You do this business because you love it and because you have passion for it. You have a vision. It’s creative. You have very, very good days and great years and you have very, very tough times, but you do it because you love it. Shoes become an obsession.”

The vibe – the look and feel of the brand – is “a hundred percent rock n roll. It's very inspired by rock music, house music, all the great bands and the people we listen to while we're designing the shoes.

“I'm a deadhead,” Jordan says. “But we have the Bowie boot and the lightning bolt and we’re big into the 70s and 80s – Talking Heads, Debbie Harry, the Clash.”

Am I talking to a frustrated rock star?

“Nah,” he says … then adds: “I mean, I do play music. I DJ and I love doing that stuff. If I could have done that, I would do that. One hundred percent, if I could have been a rock star, I'd be a rock

Above: Nikki Barber of The Minks wears the Original Bolt boot; Julia Cumming on stage with Sunflower Bean. Opposite: Jordan Adoni. and the craftspeople at the factory – Jose Rolando Corrales, Avilio Toroios, Beatriz Restrepo – have a lifetime of shoe making experience.

star.” And, a little like the best rock songs, “a lot of pain, and a lot of joy” goes into each pair of shoes. “But that’s what it is with love, you know?”

Many pairs are made to order, with customized finishes or colors; others are made in small batches, but all are created right here in New York City. “It's part of our DNA to do it here,” he says.

“Right now we have anywhere from five to seven people working on uppers.

Finishing the shoes, we have another five people. And all of them have been making shoes for 30, 40 years, so they're masters at this.

“And because they’re made in small batches, there's a lot less waste. We're very careful with how we cut our materials and where we get them from.

We make sure that it's all legitimate good stuff that's not destroying the environment.”

The factory is filled with craftspeople bent over their work – cutting leather, hammering and gluing soles, painstakingly hand-sewing on details.

And while Jordan himself is currently wearing sneakers – “If I wear shoes, I wear Modern Vice. If I wear boots, I wear Modern Vice. If I wear sneakers, I wear Yeezy’s" – he believes everyone has a little bit of rock n roll in them.

“Our customer is someone who is freespirited and open-minded, and accepts everybody for who they are. You'd be surprised if you sat here and saw the variety of customers. I have women who are 60, 70 years old. They're attorneys, they're well-traveled. They shop in France and Europe and they find out about Modern Vice and they're obsessed.

“I have lawyers who wear the boots in the courtroom. They tell me they’re the most comfortable boots they have.” modernvice.com

September 27, October 25 DIGITAL EDITION

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PHOTOGRAPH: CHARLES DUSTIN SAMMANN STYLING YANISLEI MONZÓN CALERO (STOODSTILL.COM)

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"Sasha Velour is one of our main clients. And that filters to the trans community, and people who are really into wearing gloves, but the only satin gloves they can find are in a size six.”

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GLOVE MACHINE They’ve made the inauguration gloves for every First Lady since Jackie Kennedy; for Prince, Michael Jackson, and Miss Piggy. This is the story of love, leather, and style that lasts Interview Ruth Walker Photographs Cid Roberts

M

ichelle Obama.

Madonna. Gaga and Prince. Drag queens.

Broadway stars.

Miss Piggy.

The client list of Wing + Weft gloves sounds like the best party ever!

Michael Jackson’s famous white glove was created here (when the company was known as LaCrasia Gloves). All the Catwomen in history have had their seductive black talons crafted here (take a bow, Michelle Pfeiffer, Eartha Kitt, Julie Newmar, and Halle Berry).

Prince ordered ten dozen purple lace gloves every two weeks while on his Purple Rain tour (he wore each pair only once).

And every First Lady since Jacqueline Kennedy has had their inauguration gloves made here. (“Except for Melania,” adds owner Katie Sue Nicklos. “We did make her gloves, but she didn't wear them for the inauguration. She wore blue Ralph Lauren gloves that we altered for her instead.”)

Debutantes, too, come to Wing + Weft for their elbow-length, white leather creations.

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Above: Katie Sue at work. Right: Tools at the ready.

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Forty seven years of fashion, and the story begins, appropriately enough, in a town called Gloversville, NY, where immigrants who were skilled glove makers would go to find work.

This is where fellow fashion firecrackers Jay Ruckel and LaCrasia Duchein met.

Their heyday was in the 1980s, when everyone wanted to dress like Madonna, in her lace fingerless gloves. “It was gloves for parties, and gloves, gloves, gloves,” says Katie Sue. But there are no more glove factories in Gloversville. The market took a dip, and gloves fell out of fashion for a long time. Wing + Weft is now the last remaining glove maker in Manhattan, and it has survived when others have not, says Katie Sue, because they found a niche: they became the go-to glove maker for Broadway, TV, and film.

The Marvelous Mrs Maisel, for instance. “Oh my gosh, that was so much fun. They wanted all their gloves handsewn, which we don't get the opportunity

to do because it takes so much time. But the goods they were bringing us, the suede, it was just so delightful.”

They’re in demand for runway collections too (Calvin Klein is a favorite customer), for editorial shoots, and celebrity styling. “So stylists come to us and pull gloves for celebrities who are attending the Oscars, the Met Gala: Kim Kardashian, Rihanna …

“Then we have Broadway, and regional theaters – right now we're making gloves for a show in Australia.”

But one of the biggest changes has been the rise of the drag community. “It’s a huge deal,” she says. “Sasha Velour is one of our main clients. And that filters to the trans community, and people who are really into wearing gloves, but the only satin gloves they can find are in a [teeny tiny] size six.”

The factory is lined with every color of glove – leather, silk, satin, and lace, leopard print, fur-lined, embellished, driving gloves, sequin gloves, fringed gloves. Many can be bought off the shelf,

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Clockwise from top: Colors of the spectrum; the hands of famous clients, including Nicole Kidman, Beyoncé, and Whitney; Katie Sue Nicklos.

but their specialty is custom-made, hand-pulled leather gloves … and not just for fashion clients, explains Katie Sue. “It's really nice for people who maybe have missing digits. Or we helped this one guy recently who is in the Army, and tactical gloves just don't work for him, because he has a really deep palm and short fingers. It's life or death, so he needs them to fit. And we're helping him, which is fabulous. I love those jobs.

The people with disabilities are the most exciting for me.”

Katie Sue’s own background is in theatrical costuming. She and her colleague Sarah Timberlake would only ever use LaCrasia for their shows. So when Jay and LaCrasia were ready to take a step back, the pair stepped up, renaming the company Wing + Weft in 2017. “We’d worked with them for years,” says Katie Sue. “And before that, Sarah's predecessor had been dealing with Jay for years. So everything's very familial, and they do feel, for me, like grandparents.

“LaCrasia's a pistol.” she adds. “She's a pretty amazing woman, just fierce.

And, when she was younger, she put herself out there. She was right in the middle of things.”

The couple lived in Carnegie Hall for years, and Jay worked as a secretary to Bill Cunningham. He’s in the process of writing about the legendary photographer (on the shelves, among the files and records, are box after box labelled “Bill Cunningham” … sources for his research).

But for Katie Sue, the aim is clear: to build a sustainable business and preserve a craft, right here in the Garment District. Off-the-peg gloves start at around $40, going up to around $500 for some of the most elaborate designs. Custom gloves come in at between $250 and $350.

“I personally feel like I'm carrying on something that is very rich, and I'm connected to it on a deeper level. We've seen, in this area, craft dying and moving away, so the broader goal is that glove making doesn't get lost here. I want to maintain it until I am ready to pass it on.” wingweftgloves.com

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STYLE

KITCHEN couture

@NATEBOZE

What’s an order of fries or a humble burger without condiments? On the streets of Hell’s Kitchen, photographer Nate Bozeman found lashings of ketchup, mustard … and a splash of chimichurri.

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THE BIG, FAT

VEGAN LIE More of us than ever are turning vegan. But, says Vanessa Etienne, don’t be fooled into thinking it makes us healthier

IMAGE: IMPOSSIBLE FOODS

V

eganism has officially gone mainstream (thanks millennials!). Almost all of us now have a friend who’s adopted the trending lifestyle – either in the hope of dropping a few pounds, or just to get healthier. And those individuals are now beginning to outnumber the vegans driven to the diet because of their beliefs in leaving animals unharmed.

According to a survey by Veganuary (it’s like sober October, but – you get the drift), a quarter-million people went vegan this year, with the majority aged between 25 to 34. And with McDonald’s now serving up the McVegan burger, it’s clear that this is not going away anytime soon.

“Being vegan has become more of a trend nowadays,” says Samina Kalloo, a New York registered dietician and nutritionist. And the more research that is published supporting the health benefits of excluding animal products from our diet, the more people we’re going to see hop on the bandwagon.

However, while the lifestyle can be extremely beneficial for health, not everyone is paying close attention to what foods they’re consuming – because vegan doesn’t always mean healthy.

“I think it’s important not to use ‘healthy’ and ‘vegan’ interchangeably, and to be really careful with what you’re buying and putting into your body,” says Samina.

Those who follow a vegan diet are usually lacking in iron and vitamin B12.

To compensate, they should be taking nutritional supplements and getting

lab work done regularly to ensure no additional supplements are needed.

Because, Samina says, if you’re going to live a vegan lifestyle that is also a healthy one, you’re going to need supplements.

Reading labels and understanding what your body needs is also vital to ensure you’re not pushing towards a restrictive diet. So when you walk into a grocery store and head down the aisle with all things vegan, don’t buy the first item that catches your eye. Grocery store chains, including Whole Foods, are increasing the amount of faux-meat products to support the high demand. But many of those products are loaded with artificial ingredients, contain less protein than you need – and are piled high with calories.

Consider coconut yogurt. You might think you’re picking the healthier option, but that’s not the case. A single serving can contain about 60% of your recommended daily saturated fat intake and very little protein, whereas dairy yogurt contains around 8g or more of protein and has a much lower fat content.

Impossible and Beyond Burgers are hot right now. But, although they are plant-based, they’re filled with saturated fat – one of the first ingredients on the list is oil. And the biggest worry nutritionists have about them is that, despite containing better quality ingredients, they’re still highly processed.

“Nine times out of ten, people are just grabbing things off the shelves and buying them, and a lot of times they’re just filled with fat,” says Samina.

DIGITAL EDITION

But it is possible to have a balanced diet while being vegan “There are a lot of organic foods out there,” says Samina, “like natural soy and tofu; edamame is great, as are plants and fruits, and all of these should be incorporated into your diet.”

Chia seeds and hemp seeds

Both are a great source of healthy fats and protein. They’re also versatile and can be used to make pudding, baked goods, or even just to sprinkle on top of your yogurt or salads.

Plant-based milk

When you buy your plant-based milks, make sure they are calcium fortified. They’re an easy alternative to regular dairy.

Beans and lentils

Legumes are ideal for nutrition. Lentils are also an excellent alternative to meat and can provide good protein.

Samina raves about her lentil sloppy Joe – the texture is just like an average sloppy Joe. “Sticking to whole-food ingredients while following a vegan diet is a really good way to stay away from the processed stuff,” says Samina.

If you’re committed to the change, going vegan is great, says Samina.

However, she warns that if you’re just looking for “a quick fix” or just joining the trend temporarily, it’s best to avoid it all together.

CLEAN – BUT NOT VEGAN America is in the middle of a clean meat movement, and it’s picking up momentum fast.

The process involves taking cells from live animals and creating “cultured meat” in a lab, that is molecularly identical to the meat you buy in grocery stores.

However, it uses less water, energy, and land, and contains no antibiotics or food-borne illnesses like salmonella.

Crucially, no animal is slaughtered to feed us.

It’s predicted to hit the shelves as soon as the end of this year. It’s not strictly vegan, but those behind the product claim it could revolutionize the way the world eats.

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A reporter’s

Playlist

PEOPLE

Method Japanese Kitchen and Sake Bar

10th Ave - 51st/50th St Method is not only my favorite restaurant in Hell’s Kitchen, it’s my favorite restaurant in Manhattan. The staff are always so welcoming, and the food is unique and consistently delicious.

I’ve never had a bad dish there, and they change it up enough to keep you excited. Get the tsukemono … get three.

Pier 84

12th Ave - 44th St Pier 84 is my portal to bike rides down to Battery Park or the George Washington Bridge. Whenever I’m sitting on my bike, across 12th Ave, staring at the Intrepid, I know I’m in for a lovely couple of hours of riding. It’s also our go-to for picnics.

It’s so close, but feels like a little getaway. Sunsets there are stunning, and in the summer, you can catch live jazz.

Delphinium Home

W47th St - 8th/9th Ave I never walk out of this charming store empty handed. If I need a gift or card for anyone, I know I can find something here.

Usually, I also find a couple of things for myself. The staff are very friendly and always helpful.

Cellar 53

10th Ave - 52nd/53rd St. I was so thrilled to find this wine and liquor store when I first moved to Hell’s Kitchen about four years ago. It is the best wine shop in the neighborhood, hands down. You feel like you’re at a winery, not a typical corner liquor store (especially when they have tastings). The selection leaves nothing to be desired, but the staff will order your favorites if you can’t find what you’re looking for. Everyone who works there, especially the owner, Peter, is so kind. They deliver, and have an app, and a loyalty program.

Restaurant Row

46th St - 8th/9th Ave Sure, some places on W46th St - 8th/ 9th Ave are complete tourist traps, but there are some gems like Hourglass and La Pulperia.

Sushi Seki is wonderful for sit-down sushi, and Yuri is our go-to for takeout sushi. For me, just walking through Restaurant Row reminds me that I live in a city and in a neighborhood that people travel from all over the world to experience. And it plays host to one of my favorite summer festivals – Taste of Times Square.

Playlist

IMAGE: PHIL O’BRIEN

Skinny Love - Bon Iver Right on Time - Dawes Lack of Color - Death Cab for Cutie Homecoming - Kanye West Home Life - John Mayer Elisha Ortiz is a breaking news reporter at NBCNews.com. Last month marked her 11th year living in Manhattan, and she believes Hell’s Kitchen, where she lives with her husband, is the city’s best neighborhood. Her absolute favorite place is in front of her stove, with a glass of wine.

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#FORTHEGRAM From shakes to shakshuka, Michael Muñoz hunts down the best looking food in the hood

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ave you ever walked down the street, saw a stylish person, and thought to yourself: “Wow! I wish I could

pull that off!”?

Being a short male with a waistline that fluctuates more than the stock market, this is often how I feel. I always have to remind myself that the great thing about fashion and style is, no matter what, it will always be uniquely yours and never look the same on anyone else.

Living in New York, I get to see the best and sometimes craziest fashion and what a joy it is. In contemplating how this all relates to the foodscape, I thought that food, much like fashion, is everevolving. One day it’s gastronomy, the next it’s veganism. From paleo to savory Jello molds, aka aspics, the world has just about seen and tasted it all. Or have we?

With the rise of social media guiding us on everything from how we dress to what we eat, things that are old have been given a new life, and crazier food trends are arising daily, even if it is just for “the gram.”

So without further ado, here, in no particular order, are ten of my favorite Instagrammable foods that span the lovely terrain that is my home and neighborhood. Believe me, there are way more than ten, but I only have so much ink on this page!

GOTHAM WEST MARKET 11th Ave - 44th/45th St

IMAGE: KRISTIN CAMPING

A mecca of Instgrammable food!

From pizza to pasta, noodles to ice cream, this is a cornucopia of not only stylish but quite delicious and beautiful bites. Check out the new Corner Bistro, which is on my top five list of best burgers in NYC!

This is the place to be because it is the bomb.com. It’s one of the best Italian places in the hood, and their gluten-free menu is ridiculous. It’s an Instagram double whammy … #GlutenFree #ItalianEats #PastaPrincess YAS!

Opposite: A Holey Cream selfie moment – open wide!

PRINT 11th Ave - 48th St

RUSTIC TABLE

An upscale farm-to-table restaurant where the menu is seasonal, the wine is flowing, and the dishes are perfection.

The price is well worth the experience.

W42nd St - 10th/11th Ave

We all need the quintessential breakfast pic, and this is a great place to get that. They have an awesome all-day breakfast menu, and windows that let all the best lighting in to capture that perfect coffee and eggs moment. Not a breakfast person? There is a plethora of sandwiches and salads, but my choice will always be the shakshuka.

STICKYS/BLUE RIBBON 9th Ave - 43rd St/9th Ave 50th/51st St

Yes, I know these are two different restaurants, but when talking about fried chicken, can we ever have enough?

The neighborhood is blessed with many a fried chicken joint and these two are standouts. Grab some saucy nuggets at Sticky’s then get the Firebird from Blue Ribbon and have an Instagram fried chicken war. Throw the competition in your stories and let your followers decide for you.

REUNION W44th St - 8th/9th Ave

This underground surf/ tiki-style rum bar serves up some of the best and prettiest cocktails to up your #CocktailsofInstagram game. The food is pretty stellar as well, but be sure to pack some extra lighting or have a friend turn on their flashlight for the best lighting effects. You are underground after all.

OUSIA W57th St - 11th/12th Ave

MOM’S KITCHEN 9t Ave - 48th St

This Astoria, Queensborn restaurant came to our neighborhood fairly recently and has been killing it in the upscale diner scene. Who needs to go all the way to Black Tap when you can enjoy the comforts of taking crazy, outlandish milkshake pics right here? Lactose intolerant? They serve their cocktails in mini pitchers adorned with a rubber ducky. The Insta-moments are endless.

About

MICHAEL

A home-trained

The taste of Greek heaven is well worth the walk, if only for their lobster moussaka.

From elevated Greek/ Mediterranean fare to awesome cocktails, this place will leave your followers drooling on their screens.

cook and

Qi

university trained

9th Ave -

performer, Michael makes food fun and accessible through his blog,

NIZZA

HOLEY CREAM

9th Ave - 44th/45th St

9th Ave - 52nd/53rd St

And things get

Is your Insta missing a saucy noodle slurp pic? Or how about a #PastaPorn or #BurrataPorn moment?

In the age of food mash-ups, this place was at the forefront of the movement. It’s a

downright saucy

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build-your-own ice cream sandwich joint where the sandwich is a fresh doughnut that you get to garnish. What more can I say? Extra sprinkles, please.

The Kitchen Gaily.

in his podcast In

Yo Mouth.

Last but not least is this beautiful Thai sanctuary.

What would Instagram be without mouthfuls of noodles or hoards of dumplings? Qi takes it one step further by having General Tso’s fried chicken on the menu. Crispy, cornflake-crusted, delicious, spicy, and guaranteed to get likes. At brunch you can get it with waffles. You just may break the internet.

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September 16th - 19th | Bella Abzug Park | 7pm nightly Tickets available on HYHK Eventbrite | @hudsonyardshellskitchen

PEOPLE

A designer’s

Style list Fabrics & Fabrics

W38th St - 7th/8th Ave (3rd floor) I go to this place often because it’s so close to my studio and the people are so friendly and always willing to help me find whatever I need. It’s a fantastic place to find lace, silk, brocade, linen, and highend fabrics in the heart of the Garment District. I truly love spending time there.

DAYTONA TRIMMING

W39th St - 7th/8th Ave My go-to shop for all my sewing needs. I find yarns, tassels, ribbons, sequins, and all sort of trimmings here (you can also find my Júlio César NYC patterns sold under the Vogue Patterns brand, in case you want to make one of my garments yourself). Five stars!

B&J

Fabrics Fashion Center Building 7th Ave - 38th/39th St (2nd floor) I’ve been going here for more than 20 years for its well-organized selection of high-quality, well-priced fabrics from Italy, Japan, and the UK. When I think of Liberty of London I think of B&J. The diversity of people here is also a plus.

Culture Espresso

W38th St - 8th/9th Ave This sleek, airy spot is where I go for a late afternoon boost. I always ask for a cafe latte in a mug rather than in a paper cup, and enjoy a moment of peace followed by an energy lift. It’s also a perfect place for meetings, with easygoing staff and great background music.

Trattoria Casa Di Isacco

9th Ave - 39th/40th St This cozy and quirky restaurant is the perfect spot for me to take visitors from out of town for a delicious Italian meal, and fantastic dessert. The owner is entertaining and totally obsessed with Elvis Presley.

Sometimes they have live music too.

Brazil-born Julio Cesar moved to New

York at the age of 21 and began adapting his artistic collage style to fabric and fashion design. He has since worked with Koos Van Den Akker, Julia and Harry Belafonte, Lauren Hutton, and the New Museum. He’s inspired by music, books, movies, and travel, and works from the Garment District (juliocesarnyc.com).

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OUT

LIFE WISH A prodigious gift for music saved Ricky Ian Gordon from a life of drink, drugs, and indiscriminate sex Interview Ruth Walker

T

here’s a day in Ricky Ian Gordon’s life which, looking back now, predicts the man he was to become. He and his childhood best friend, Peter Randsman, would go for piano lessons with Mrs Fox near their Long Island home.

On this day, for whatever reason, he was drawn to a particular book on a particular shelf, and pulled it down to examine it.

“It’s very weird, but I remember the moment like one of those movies, where you pull the book out and there’s light and smoke behind it.

Because by the time his piano lesson was over, Mrs Fox could see the way I was looking at the book and gave it to me as a gift.”

The fateful tome was the Victor Book of Opera. And both Ricky and Peter became obsessed with opera from that moment. He was eight and Peter was nine. Peter has since become a major opera agent; Ricky’s work has been performed and/ or recorded by the likes of Renée Fleming, Dawn Upshaw, Nathan Gunn, Judy Collins, Kelli O’Hara, Audra McDonald, Kristin Chenoweth, and Betty Buckley.

What was it about this book?

“It was as if nothing in the world looked as interesting to me as opera,” he says. “I wanted to see every one of those operas and what they looked like on the stage and what they sounded

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OUT like. All I can think is that it was some past life thing. And from that moment on, the word ‘opera’ is the most charged, powerful, vibrationally rich word that I know of in my own life. So that’s it. We became crazy.”

His sister Sheila, seven years his senior, thought it was adorable – and probably slightly odd – that these two little boys, children of the 60s, were so taken with this particularly adult artform. So she took them off to the Amato Opera on the Bowery to see Il Trovatore. The building is no longer there, but he says it was about as big as his living room. And the boys were beside themselves with awe.

He lapped up everything he could to do with opera. “There was another place on the east side called Music Masters,” he recalls, “which sold live recordings of absolutely everything. By the time I grew up, I knew every opera that opened in the 20th century and had any kind of recording. It was like it was a compulsion.”

Every Saturday, he and Peter would head into the city early to join the standing line at the Metropolitan Opera (he now lives a hop, skip, and a jump from the legendary opera house). “And then we would write letters to the stars like Birgit Nilsson, Franco Corelli, and we’d be on their guest list.

And we’d go backstage – these kids ...

“I remember hanging out with Franco Corelli, his little blonde wife, and his little doggy. We were these freaks.

Or Beverly Sills when she was doing Ballad of Baby Doe at the City Opera.

We were crazed.”

But none of that was as crazy as the time when, at the age of 12, he ran away to the opera in the middle of a snow storm.

“I was studying for my bar mitzvah.

It was 1969 and there was huge, huge snow storm in New York. I think it was one of the biggest snow storms of all time. But someone had given me a ticket to hear Roberta Peters in Lucia di Lammermoor. So I ran away from home.

“Then, when the opera was over, there were no trains going back to Long Island. So I called my sister crying from the Empire Hotel, saying, ‘I don’t know what I’m going to do. I don’t know how I’m going to get home.’ She had a friend who lived in the city who came and got me, and I had to stay at her apartment until the blizzard was over.”

His parents were at a loss. What kind of child would do such a thing?

Their young prodigy was accepted into Carnegie Mellon University in the middle of his senior year so left high school to study piano. But, soon after, had a powerful revelation.

“I was on my way to audition for the school, and I was very obsessed with three pieces at that moment in time.

‘I was like a feral animal. I just stole and drank and took drugs.

And probably, if I didn’t have a gift, I’d be dead.’

DIGITAL EDITION

Opposite: With his beloved Lucy and, above, with Lynn Nottage, whose Intimate Apparel he is making into an opera for Lincoln Center’s spring season.

One was Ned Rorem, who had just written a song cycle called Ariel using Sylvia Plath’s poems. And all my life, I’ve loved poetry.

“Then Stephen Sondheim had written his musical Follies, which really shattered the form – everything about it. The idea that you thought you were going to see a musical about the follies, and it was a musical about shattered lives, broken dreams, tortured relationships, people with nothing but illusions about themselves. It was so startling and upsetting and brilliant.

“And then Shostakovich had just written his 14th Symphony, which was dedicated to Benjamin Britten. It was for chamber orchestra and it set all poems about death to music. And those three pieces just sort of rocked my world completely. So I got to school and was practicing piano, and I just thought. ‘Maybe I’m a composer.’”

When he came back to school after the holidays that year, he’d been busy.

He was armed with hundreds of pages of his own music, and says it was “like walking into your own life – as soon as I decided I was a composer.”

But there’s another side to Ricky’s story – a side that was to see him spiral into self-destruction, succumbing to “a life of dissolution, going from one low self-esteem job to another, drinking too much, taking too many drugs, and having indiscriminate sex.”

It involved a tortured boy. An assault. A court case.

“I was a gay child. I didn’t know I was gay, but I was different on every level. An older boy sexually abused me and then went around the town and said that I blew him. And at the time, I didn’t even know what that meant. I was like eight. We had to move away.

“But the only way I could stay safe was to befriend all the juvenile delinquents and bullies, because they were strong. And if I were friends with them, they would side with me.”

He started smoking, and drinking, and stealing, and destroying. By the age of 12, he smoked like a chimney.

He was smoking pot, and he was on his way to a serious drug addiction. “I got so scared of being dumber than

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OUT

everybody that, somehow, I got speed and then I could stay up all night and read. But I became an addict.”

By the time he got to college, he was doing speed to stay up during the day, downers to sleep at night … and drinking heavily. “I was like a feral animal. I just stole and drank and took drugs. And probably, if I didn’t have a gift, I’d be dead.”

In the end, when he finally got sober at 33, he says it wasn’t because he was afraid of dying … it was because he was afraid of not living.

“I knew I had gifts inside of me, and there was no way that garden could flower if I continued drinking and taking drugs the way I was. And that scared the shit out of me.

“Literally, I could have dropped dead and that didn’t scare me. My fear was that I was going to be Hickey in The Iceman Cometh. I was just going to have pipe dreams, and not do.”

Thirty days into his sobriety, everything started to come together.

He was invited to record some of his songs at Adam Guettel’s loft.

“Adam wrote Light in the Piazza. His grandfather was Richard Rodgers.

His mother was Mary Rodgers, who wrote Freaky Friday. Adam heard my music that day and he said, ‘I’m about to do a benefit for the gay men’s health crisis and I’d love to present you – would you be interested?’

“After we performed, all these people like Sheldon Harnick and

Above: With Jeffrey.

Mary Rodgers – a lot of well known people – came up to me and were like, ‘Who are you? What are you?

Why don’t we know about you?

Where have you been?’ I couldn’t really say I’d been hiding under a rock with some speed.”

Within a month, he had a publishing contract with Rodgers and Hammerstein. Soon after, he got a recording contract with RCA. “All I had to do was put down the drink.”

He quotes Charlie Parker: “If you don’t live it, you don’t blow it out your horn.” And adds: “Today I am grateful for everything that happened to me, because I do believe if my music is the least bit resonant, it’s because of what I went through.”

That includes the death of his partner Jeffrey, who died just as Ricky’s career was taking off. “He walked across the room and I thought, ‘That’s who I’m supposed to be with.’ It was so strong.

“We went out to dinner – and this is why I don’t believe in death, I believe in past lives, the soul is eternal – because I had some weird connection with him. We were having the loveliest conversation. And at one point he just looked sad, leaned across the table, and said, ‘There’s something I have to tell you. I’m HIV positive.’ Now, this was the early 90s, so that just meant ‘I’m going to die.’

“The previous Thursday night, Mary Rodgers had taken me to see

DIGITAL EDITION

a new play called Jeffrey by Paul Rudnick, about a guy with AIDS. And at a certain point, there’s a line that says AIDS is like the guests at the party that you really don’t want there, but you have to accept that they’re there and make peace with it.

“And here was Jeffrey, and I thought about that play, and I thought, ‘I’m going to love him right out of this world.’ I felt like this was a fate moment. And what happened was, I did.”

Jeffrey died in 1996, surviving just long enough to see Ricky’s opera, The Tibetan Book of the Dead, premiere in Philadelphia. His loss also inspired his compositions Dream True, Orpheus and Euridice, and the song cycle Green Sneakers for Baritone, String Quartet, Empty Chair and Piano.

“Piece after piece,” he says, “I spun my grief into a body of work and I wove in my sexuality, and my addictions, and my obsession with foreign films, and my friendships, and my hatreds, and my loves, and my ambivalences, and my all-consuming adoration for the human voice, and my need for poetry. Poetry, all there.

There in the notes. There in the words. A body of work.”

A prolific writer, full of joy and humanity and honestly, his latest works include an operatic version of Lynn Nottage’s Intimate Apparel, which will be performed at Lincoln Center Theater in the spring; and Ellen West, inspired by the true story of an anorexic and bulimic woman in the early 1900s.

And he just keeps working. He says: “There is something, you might call it an overwhelming sense of need to be heard, to be understood, to be ‘gotten’ that, in combination with an astounding love of life, a strong contradictory death wish, an exceedingly intense proneness to side with beauty, and a voracious hunger and desire to eat and drink everyone and everything, makes me who I am.” rickyiangordon.com

45

OUT

GREEN AND BLONDE From backstage dresser at Wicked to a personal brand with 22k followers – who is Teale Dvornik?

Words Elizabeth Durand Streisand Illustration Chelsey Hill

46

DIGITAL EDITION

I

OUT

n the words of famed NYC photographer Bill Cunningham: “Fashion is the armor to survive the reality of everyday life” … except for when it’s the portal to escape. Enter Teale Dvornik, a dresser at Wicked who has become a fashion plate in her own right as the force behind The Backstage Blonde.

With an infectious love of pink leopard-print and over 22K Instagram followers, Teale has done the nearimpossible and become an influencer who actually stands for something.

We talk with her to find out how she landed in Oz, the keys to being a good dresser, and why her own style doesn’t include sequins.

Unlike many Broadway professionals, Teale’s first love wasn’t theater … or even fashion.

It was film. “I come from a family of movie buffs who treat the Oscars like the Super Bowl,” she reveals. “They exposed me heavily to the arts and Broadway, but I didn’t fall in love with live theater until college.”

And even then, it occurred somewhat by chance. Her freshman year, she majored in fashion design with her eyes set on being a celebrity stylist, but her sophomore year she transferred to a school that didn’t have that major, forcing her to switch to the next-closest thing, which happened to be costume design and technical theater.

“During my first month at my new university, I was a dresser and stitcher for the play Richard III and I fell deeply in love with the magic of live theater. From that moment

on, living in NYC and working in wardrobe on Broadway was my ultimate goal.” Spoiler alert: she didn’t start at the finish line on that one.

She started as a costume designer in the Catskills at Stagedoor Manor, then spent two years working as a wardrobe supervisor aboard cruise ships, a period Teale describes as “intense.” Yeah, we can imagine. “You can’t apply to work at Wicked; you have to be invited,” she explains.

Fortunately, after getting her sea legs, she received the invitation she had been hoping for, and joined the hit musical’s wardrobe crew in January 2015.

Since then, the Florida transplant has worked on Aladdin, Summer: The Donna Summer Musical, On the Town, The Prom, The Radio City Christmas Spectacular, and backstage at New York Fashion Week shows. But what does a dresser do exactly?

“Dressers have many responsibilities, but the main two are 1) to keep the costumes organized, and 2) to properly and swiftly change the actors so they make their entrances on time,” Teale explains. “I dress the female ensemble at Wicked and arrive at the theater two hours before the start time to pre-set the show. During the show, I keep my girls’ costumes organized, occasionally do repairs, set the costumes out, quick-change the actresses, and then put away the discarded costumes when everyone goes back on stage.”

As a point of reference, Teale’s

Teale’s quickest costume change for Wicked has to be completed in 15 seconds – yes, seconds.

However, there’s more to being a great dresser than … you know … dressing people.

DIGITAL EDITION

Opposite: Teale’s wardrobe of choice? Say hello to athleisure!

About

ELIZABETH

Elizabeth Durand Streisand is the CEO and co-founder of Broadway Roulette, the fun and easy way to see Broadway shows. Pick a date and number of tickets, give some info about what you like (and don’t!), and spin the wheel for a surprise show matching your criteria. All tickets only $49 weekday or $59 weekends – and Broadway Roulette will never send you to the same show twice!

Visit broadway roulette.com / IG: @broadway roulette

quickest costume change for Wicked has to be completed in 15 seconds – yes, seconds.

She notes, however, that there’s more to being a great dresser than … you know … dressing people. “You have to be able to anticipate the actors’ needs ahead of time and know how to read a dressing room. I am there to help the actors do their jobs to the best of their abilities. Sometimes that means getting them water. Other times it means making them laugh.” In other words, she’s a one-woman pit crew for triple-threats.

And now she’s offering that same type of girl-power-cheerleading to all via her own brand, The Backstage Blonde. Launched in 2017, it’s one part lifestyle blog (where Teale covers topics like her go-to tanning lotion, her recent move to Hell’s Kitchen, and her boyfriend meeting her parents) and one part fashion hub (complete with eyecandy pics and its own theaterthemed merch shop).

Teale admits having a demanding day-job while building a business on the side has been a challenge, but credits solid time-management skills and a stellar team for keeping the ship on course. Kaleigh Steinorth Iben, her close friend and former roommate, is her manager and has helped nurture The Backstage Blonde from the beginning. “One of the best pieces of business advice I’ve been given is to surround yourself with a team of people who are smarter than you,” she quips.

As for how her personal style has been influenced by working on the Great White Way, Teale doesn’t miss a beat: she’s become an athleisure enthusiast. “At work, I’m running up and down stairs, squatting down, carrying baskets, and pushing heavy racks, so my clothing has to be functional and comfortable. My almost-always-black uniform consists of leggings, an oversized T-shirt, or a full sweatsuit.”

We think Bill Cunningham would approve.

47

WISHINGWALL DIGITAL EDITION

LIVING When a lifetime of collecting threatened to take over Keith Sherman’s apartment, he turned his home into a gallery instead Words Vanessa Etienne Photographs Phil O’Brien

I

n 1939, a dramatic, seven-foot sculpture called ‘Riders of the Elements’ dominated the New York World’s Fair. Created

by Chester Beach, it stood at the intersection of the Avenue of Transportation and the Court of Ships, and portrayed man’s tangle with technology in the dawn of the Machine Age. Three horses and their individual riders rise up, alongside a ship, a car, and a train.

The sculpture’s size would overwhelm even the most generously proportioned New York apartment, so it was made into a (still impressive) 42-inch cast bronze reduction that now sits on a revolving steel pedestal in Keith Sherman’s living room. The original, meanwhile, is safely in storage.

“I like things that tell a story, that there’s a context with it,” says the Broadway publicist and art collector.

Walking into this one-bedroom W42nd St apartment is like walking into a work of art. One window looks across to Hudson Yards and The Vessel; another catches a (disappearing) glimpse of the Hudson River, just a few blocks away. There are sculptures of all sizes on tables, book shelves, and kitchen counters. There are creative pieces decorating the window sills. Even the bar stools, light fixtures, and bathroom sink are what Keith would describe as art, custom-created to his tastes. And the entire apartment is filled

DIGITAL EDITION

49

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LIVING

Previous page: Keith, Roy, and their dog Murphy in their living room – ‘Riders of the Elements’ is by the window. This page: Sculpture, art, and books about art fill their Hell’s Kitchen home.

with paintings that stretch from wall to wall, floor to ceiling.

This is not just Keith’s apartment; it’s also the home of his gallery, Helicline Fine Art, which he owns and runs with his doctor husband, Roy Goldberg.

The couple have always been collectors. They started with baseball cards and comic books when they were growing up. “When I was a teenager, my parents asked what sort of souvenir they should bring me from their trip to Europe,” says Keith. “A shirt? A hat? No. I wanted a painting. And a lifetime love of art was born.”

The older they got, the more expensive their tastes got, including their ability to recognize quality items when they saw them. They would spend most of their spare time in art galleries and at auctions, falling in love with the stories behind each work and wanting to bring them all home – and they scored big. “We were able to find amazing works of art that were affordable because no one cared,” he says.

“It was a period that was completely out of favor for so long.”

But when, in 2008, their art collection

DIGITAL EDITION

began to outgrow their city apartment, their home upstate, their offices, and even their storage unit, Keith and Roy realized something had to give – and became dealers. Helicline specializes in 20th century American and European modernist paintings, sculptures, and works on paper. The name itself comes from their obsession with the 1939 World’s Fair, whose omnipresent image was Trylon and Perisphere, two monumental sculptures and entertainment venues the size of vast buildings. The Helicline was the curved ramp that connected the two.

“So, now, we connect people with art,” he says.

Their tastes weren’t always so refined.

When they moved into their first apartment, they had “old, lifeless” furniture left over from their college days. But over time, they had the opportunity to create a space incorporating their developing style and their love for art.

Working with the artists, architects, and industrial designers they’ve met along the way, they’ve created a custom apartment that compliments the works of art that make up their private gallery. “It’s our

51

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LIVING This page: An illustration of Roy and Keith by Al Hirschfeld is a treasured piece in their bedroom.

home, you know?” says Keith. “It’s not open to public and people come in by appointment – it’s very personal.”

Pieces start at $2,000 and go as high as seven figures. But, for him, what’s most important is the experience. “That’s the joy of it to me,” he says. “It’s picking people’s brains and guiding them.

“I’m all self-taught,” he adds. “I don’t have any kind of formal training.

It’s all just been born out of my heart and my energy and my interest in doing all of this.”

He loves playing a part in someone else’s love for art, discussing pieces of work with anyone who’s interested. And it’s easier to do at home as opposed to a museum, without dozens of “don’t touch” signs. With their private gallery, it’s all about the connection between a person and the art. “This is history,” he says. “The back of a painting can tell you so much.

And one of the great things about living with art is that you can touch it.”

He recalls the very first sale he and Roy made. A man reached out to them because he came across their website and was interested in three different pieces of art. When he arrived at their home, he fell into a trance, captivated by the paintings that filled the walls. He walked right past the three paintings he’d asked to see and made his way to another. “What’s that?” he demanded. And, ultimately, that’s the one he bought.

“It is one thing to see a work of art on a computer screen, or in a book. But to see the detail with your eye – that’s a different experience,” says Keith. “That’s why we go to museums and art galleries.

“If someone just wants a transaction, like they’re buying coffee at Starbucks, that’s fine,” says Keith. “But I’d much rather have conversations with people.

It’s fun. It gets us out of ourselves and connects us with the world and society.”

September 27, October 25 DIGITAL EDITION

Even though the couple love to see people connect with the art in their home, they’re still collectors at heart and it’s always bittersweet to see some of their favorites go. But, regardless, they always look on the bright side.

“My view is, we don’t really own these.

We rent them for a period of time, but they will all out-live us,” Keith says.

“We’re living with them now and they’re giving me great joy and it would be great to share that with other people too who fall in love.”

With so much passion, it’s hard to imagine that this is just a sideline to both Keith and Roy’s day jobs. And they’re certainly kept busy. Keith says: “Just living life can be a challenge, but I see the joy in it. You can live your life with a scowl on your face or you can just manage it. We all have interests in life and I pursue everything that I do with a kind of gracious energy.” heliclinefineart.com

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LIVING My budget: Under $3,500 – I was hoping for a one bedroom, but I knew, with the amenities I was looking for, I may have to consider a studio.

Along the way: I was on the fence about renewing my lease. One doesn’t give up 1,000 sq ft in NYC easily! So I told myself I’d look at ONE building and if there was an apartment there that was available and met my needs, then it was meant to be – and it was!

On the tick list: The two non-negotiables were that it had to be pet friendly (I have a Yorkie called Pacey) and have a view.

I’ve also been lucky enough to always have a dishwasher in NYC – I didn’t want to give that up. Closet space was a must – I have a walk-in closet – and my bonus item, but not requirement, was an in-unit washer and dryer, which it has as well.

Hey

neighbor!

She gave up 1,000 sq ft on the UWS to come back to Hell’s Kitchen, but Marci Lowney gained a home that’s the perfect fit

What sealed the deal: The view and natural light. Before, I was on the ground and garden level and only saw sunlight for a few hours a day. Now I have a nine-foot-wide window on a high floor, with an amazing view of Midtown – it’s the first thing I see when I wake up in the morning and I couldn’t be happier.

The best thing about living in Hell’s Kitchen: It’s a mix of old and new. It still has the grit that gives the city character, while new things are always popping up. And there’s no better place in the city for restaurants.

Interview Vanessa Etienne Photograph Phil O’Brien

Marci Lowney

Profession: Director of creative strategy at a finance company. I handle all internal communications, events, and web design for one of our executives.

Moving from: A 1920s condo on the Upper West Side, near Riverside Park.

To: An alcove studio in a full-service building at Gotham West.

Above: Feeling right at home, with Pacey.

Why: The apartment I had was huge – it even had a private patio. But I missed being closer to downtown. The Upper West Side was quiet with lots of families, and, being a young, single professional, it didn’t feel like “me.”

Why Hell’s Kitchen: I’d lived in the neighborhood previously and, after a few months away, I started to miss it terribly – all my favorite restaurants are here, and I like that it is so, so central to everything.

DIGITAL EDITION

VITAL STATS

Where: W45th St. – 10th/11th Ave # stories: 32 # units: 554 Built: 2013 Amenities: Doorman, rooftop, gym, courtyard, game room, business center, outdoor movie theater, art gallery and, most importantly, FREE BREAKFAST on weekdays!

Pet friendly: Absolutely. I can’t take the elevator without seeing at least one cute dog.

55

LIVING Glass act

Trust Tory Burch to come up with tableware with a touch of class.

These emerald green wine glasses draw on a turnof-the-century molding technique, and look all vintagey and cute. $128 (for four), toryburch.com

Island sun

Spanish luxury leather brand Loewe launched its home decor collection last spring, focusing on crafts from around the world: blankets, tapestries, frames, and decorative boxes.

This stripe wool blanket is created in collaboration with cult Ibiza boutique Paula’s, famed for its bohemian styling. $690, loewe.com

What the

WELL-DRESSED APARTMENT is wearing

Stir it up

These elegant teaspoons with flower and leaf handles are cheap enough to use every day. Your Fruit Loops will look a whole lot sexier on IG now! $12.99 for three, hm.com

Fashion designers have their eye on your home Get naked!

A shower curtain that also serves as a gentle reminder … should you be tempted to step under the water still in your PJs! Thanks Urban Outfitters. $49, urbanoutfitters. com

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DIGITAL EDITION

Spanish siesta

Master of the tropical print, Matthew Williamson has created a range of lamps with One World – this one inspired by summer siestas in the Spanish town of Deia.

The ceramic base looks like individual petals, while the shade includes oranges, lemons, jasmine and hibiscus flowers – how about that for some year-round sunshine? $490.75, matthewwilliamson.com

LIVING

Dish of the day

Marimekko’s bold white, red, pink, and green Eläköön Elämä pattern (don’t ask me to pronounce it!) is reproduced on a salad server. That’s what I call fashion on a plate. $29.50, marimekko.com

Hot seat

Fear not, designer interiors are not the sole preserve of big name brands. High street favorite Zara has a classy collection of furniture, linens, kitchen and bathroom accessories, and other bits and bobs for the chic apartment.

This teak and rattan chair looks way more expensive than it is! $299, zarahome.com

Wall flower

Gucci’s second year in the home field sees the introduction of lush wall coverings. The Grotesque Garden print picks out a lion motif used in bomber jackets, scarves, and blouses from a previous ready-to-wear collection. $490, gucci.com

Basket case

Ralph Lauren was one of the original fashion designers to launch a homewares arm, so is the grand daddy of the industry. The Hailey basket comes in soft black or tan leather, hand woven in two sizes.

From $395, ralphlauren.com

Quilty pleasure

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi is known for its Victoriana styling that mixes masculine with feminine, hard with soft. This double-sided eiderdown is made with fine silk/satin and features contrasting decoupage and peony prints taken from the 2018 collection, all finished with a silk frill trim. $895, preenbythorntonbregazzi.com

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GALLERY

#W42ST Hashtag your Instagram pics and they could star in the mag!

Sunshine and showers. Torrential downpours followed by the boldest, most brilliant of sunsets.

Smiles. Swimsuits. Smoke.

Welcome to the New York summer, as captured by our Instagram family. Did you know that anyone can be featured on these pages? Just tag your images #W42ST and you could be the one whose photograph ends up in the next issue.

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GALLERY

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STYLE

DIGITAL EDITION

STYLE

CAN THESE FOODS

MAKE YOU FIT? Sophia Strawser has no idea – but she samples them all anyway, so you don’t have to waste your time

A

nyone else the type of person who can walk around Costco and find themselves a full lunch purely out of samples?

I love samples. And I love fitness foods.

So I tried out a whole lot of them so that you don’t have to waste time and money doing the same. Do you trust me?

Honestly, I don’t even trust myself! But I’ll give you my opinions anyway. Move forward at your own risk.

PROTEIN BARS

Everyone’s eating them but are we actually enjoying them? Unclear. No, they aren’t a meal, but some of them sure do have enough calories to be one.

Fit Joy: A low-carb, high-protein bar never goes unnoticed by me. Screw post-workout, these are straight up an after-dinner dessert. They have a soft texture with no aftertaste, no hard or dry texture, just creamy, gluten-free, dairyfree goodness. Easily my favorite protein bar – they even have small sizes of each flavor that come in at 70 calories.

Go Macro: These bars make you work for it, with a texture that keeps you chewing a long time. Maybe that helps me eat less? The flavor was great and they were pretty filling. I preferred the high-protein options because, otherwise, they were all carb – and for someone who gains weight just standing four apartments away from a bagel, this was not my best option.

Good! Foods: This company is fresh on the market this year. Each bar has 15g of protein, with a nice balance of

carbs and fat. I recommend the lemon and peanut butter flavors. My only note is that they melt quite easily. For the flavor and texture, though, I’ll put up with the not-so-cute way of having to eat the melted bar out of the wrapper.

KETO

It’s hip, it’s hot. And, while I don’t keep keto, I do keep to low carb. Let’s face it, it’s the new gluten free.

ChocZero: I sampled the dark and milk chocolate – easily my favorite fitness foods to date. They come in individually wrapped squares that help those with a lack of self-control (am I the only one raising both hands?). Coming in at no more than 45 calories, how can you go wrong? I’d plop one of these low-carb, chocs into my morning oatmeal and – wowza! – did I start my day off right.

Magic Spoon Cereal: If you’re keto, run don’t walk to buy this cereal.

Amazing! I don’t have a sweet tooth but what I miss while dieting is a crunch.

I want something that gives me that satisfying bite that isn’t a carrot. This cereal fills that void. I recommend the fruity-flavored ones, which taste like Fruit Loops but with a whole lot more fruit and a whole lot less bad stuff.

Collagen for Her: Oh collagen, the new magic fix. I drank this consistently and can’t say I saw results in my skin or hair but I loved the taste. And I found that the protein it offers for very few calories was just enough to keep me full between meals. I tried out the Lemon Water flavor, which was super refreshing. And, compared to

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Opposite: Keto cereal? Low-calorie chocolate? What is this sorcery?

other collagen brands, this one is also reasonably priced, making it a win-win.

Bone Broth: It’s collagen’s bougie older sister. I couldn’t drink it mixed with water because the taste was too strong for me, but mixing it with a smoothie was just right. Try the chocolate – or any flavor strong enough to cover the aftertaste. No, I’m not magically, ridiculously good looking or healthy now, but I did notice a difference in gut health when adding this to my morning routine.

Four Sigmatic Mushroom Hot Cacao: Am I going to be the woman who asks for plain hot water at Starbucks then adds her own tea bag? Potentially, if by tea bag you mean these little packets, which are low calorie and taste far more like sugary hot chocolate than I could have imagined. Use more than one packet, however, as each one is designed to be mixed with 4oz of liquid and, since I’m American, I must have 8oz or more.

FOR DESSERT

Lastly, I tried Emmy’s cookies. They aren’t full of protein and they aren’t keto.

They are just full of calories for a very tiny amount but, you know what, they are delicious. And they have an amazing Instagram account. They make recipes like little cheesecakes with cookies as the base. Feel free to use Three Trees plant-based milk in the recipe, because I did and it had me feeling vegan (wipes burger from chin). Both are great products with super transparent ingredients, which I appreciate.

I’m off to a spin class. Until next month, catch me @SophieStrawser.

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TM

STYLE

With this

RING...

Vintage jewelry is loaded with history and mystery. But there’s one piece Claudia Chung can’t bring herself to wear

I

am draped in decades of other people’s lives every single day. When I get dressed — silk for the summer, Apple watch, flats made to hit the pavement – I also slip on my gold rings from the 1930s.

When I place my iPad and iPhone inside my purse, my bracelets from the 1970s are always looped on my right wrist.

And as I leave my apartment, I take one last look in the mirror and twist one of the vintage cameo earrings from the 1940s.

My daily sartorial style, an expression to the world of who I am, twinkles with dead people’s jewelry.

I’ve always been attracted to vintage — from custom-tailored dresses, to the silver serving platters on top of my dresser that hold my lotions and potions. I believe in things made before H&M, Pottery Barn, and Zales took over our minds and wallets;

“stuff” made with care, pride, and a thoughtfulness to detail; especially products that were meant to evoke pleasure. And what brings more pleasure than jewelry? Its sole purpose is to be pretty and make the person wearing it feel special, cared for.

There is something beautiful and tragic about jewelry left behind. It holds so much more than the history of ownership; it holds a mystery and story. It makes me wonder what it meant to someone else and how it made them feel. Who was the person that got to wear it first? Did he or she wear it every day like me? Was it a gift, or a little magical treat bought with their own money and confidence?

I’ve gotten my fair share of jewelry from men — some

IMAGE: ILONA LIEBERMAN

“It makes me wonder what it meant to someone else and how it made them feel. Who was the person that got to wear it first?”

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About

CLAUDIA

Claudia Chung is a writer who moonlights as a school teacher.

She is currently working on a book of essays and stories on the trials, tribulations, and the funny in being a young widow.

I lost, some I sold, and the rest is just rotting in the back of my closet. I don’t look at it, let alone wear it. The pieces I wear daily are the ones I bought myself. Each ring, earring, and bracelet I searched, bid for, and cleaned.

They come mostly from estate sales, meaning the previous owners are most likely dead.

The only vintage jewelry I refuse to wear is my engagement ring — an art deco-style setting with a princess-cut diamond. It’s everything.

It’s old. Very old. It belonged to my guy’s mother. Now it belongs to me.

I can’t bear to slip it on without my heart wanting to stop, just as his did on a random, expected Saturday morning. And I’m not sure what makes me more afraid: that I will never wear it again, or that I will put it on and never take it off. What kind of message would I be sending to the world by wearing it? And what would I say when people compliment it and ask where it’s from?

Recently, I dug out the little white box from my underwear drawer, after two years of pretending it didn’t exist. Just looking at the box made me want to disappear. I gazed at it and wondered what it all meant — the survival and miracle of this little ring.

The first life was a marriage that lasted almost half a century, producing five children and three grand children. Then it came to me. We never made it to the altar. It produced no children, although we were planning to get a dog and name it Pal Sutton.

I respect this ring, not because it is absolutely gorgeous (which it is), but because it was here before me and I hope it will be here after me.

Where will it go? Who will wear it? And what will it mean to them? I don’t have an answer. All I know is I am finally open to seeing the possibility.

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PETS

Wagging Maggie

Human’s name: Abigail.

Age: Six months.

Breed: Morkie (Maltese/Yorkshire Terrier mix), adopted from Animal Haven, the best animal shelter around.

What makes me bark: When dogs won’t chase me at the dog park. Such party poopers!

Three words that describe me best: Adorable, rockstar, miracle.

Confession: I will steal your heart. Also, although I am perfectly potty trained, I like to pee all over my dog grandma’s house.

Instadog: I don’t have Instagram because (i) if I did, my Instagram would get so many hits that it would break the internet and (ii) Instagram is for wannabes, I’ve already made it!

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Lili Humans’ names: Peter and Robyn.

Age: Five.

Breed: American Eskimo.

What makes me bark: Seeing my daddy come home.

Three words that describe me best: Loving, curious, hilarious.

Confession: I love to have my belly rubbed.

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Ozzie Human’s name: Ryan.

Age: Three and a half.

Breed: Miniature Pinscher and Chihuahua (possibly Mogwai – we’re waiting on the 23andMe results).

What makes me bark: Chicken – prepared any which way.

Three words that describe me best: Best. Decision. Ever.

Confession: I’m waaaay smarter than I let on.

tales Annie Humans’ names: Jeremy and HL. Age: Six months.

Breed: Border Collie mix.

What makes me bark: Treats all daaay!

Three words that describe me bests: Fun-loving free sprit.

Confession: The ocean really scares me!

Instadog: @littleborderannie

PETS These camera-happy cuties took a time out for a quick Q&A with W42ST

Richmond

Sammy

Human’s name: Patricia.

Age: 12 (but I’m still a puppy at heart).

Breed: I’m a 100lb, blond Labrador.

What makes me bark: I only bark in my dreams.

Three words that describe me best: Eager, friendly, and hungry.

Confession: I’ll let anyone scratch my rump.

Humans’ names: Jen and Ryan.

Age: 12-ish.

Breed: Shih Tzu, Spaniel, Chihuahua.

What makes me bark: When it’s dinner time, but there’s no food in my bowl!

Three words that describe me best: Sweet, laid-back, fluffy.

Confession: I may be blind, but I can find food ANYWHERE!

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LAST WORD

“A little bad taste is like a nice splash of paprika. We all need a splash of bad taste - it’s hearty, it’s healthy, it’s physical. I think we could use more of it. No taste is what I’m against.”

T

Diana Vreeland

he legendary fashion editor, who died in 1989, is still revered for her visionary sense of style.

Yet her career only really began at the age of 33 when, spotted at the St Regis Hotel, dancing in white lace Chanel with white roses in her hair, she was offered a job at Harper’s Bazaar the following day.

Her contribution included the column “Why Don’t You?” which featured such suggestions as: “Why don’t you … turn your child into an Infanta for a fancydress party?” “… wash your blond child’s hair in dead champagne, as they do in France?” “… have a furry elk-hide trunk for the back of your car?” and “… twist

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[your child’s] pigtails round her ears like macaroons?”

She was promoted to fashion editor and continued in the role for 26 years, working with such fashion luminaries as Richard Avedon, who said at the time of her death: “She was and remains the only genius fashion editor.”

She advised Jacqueline Kennedy in matters of style while she was in the White House, and helped connect her with the designer Oleg Cassini, who became chief designer to the First Lady.

But, after apparently being passed over for promotion in 1957, Vreeland resigned and moved to Vogue, working as editor-in-chief from 1963 until 1971.

During her tenure, she celebrated

DIGITAL EDITION

“unusual” beauty, and discovered Edie Sedgwick, Warhol’s muse.

Her looks weren’t the only quirky thing about her – she often considered herself the “ugly child” in her family – her daily routine included a peanut butter sandwich and a shot of Scotch for lunch every day.

And she was infamous for her lack of financial prudence – which eventually caused her to be fired from Vogue.

However, the Metropolitan Museum of Art soon came calling, and recruited her as a consultant to the Costume Institute in 1971. She was 69, and the role may have been her true calling.

She died of a heart attack in 1989, at Lenox Hill Hospital.

Lace up. Leash up. Save lives.

YOU LOVE YOUR COMMUNITY. So, take action for the pets and people in it.

Join us for Strut Your Mutt, the annual dog walk and festival for animal lovers and their tail-wagging companions. Just select a participating animal welfare group, and we’ll help you raise money to support their local lifesaving efforts. Sign up to strut today!

October 5 \ Hudson River Park, Pier 84, New York City Register today at strutyourmutt.org Thanks to our national sponsors:

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