Working together towards shared goals
It’s official. More people than ever are taking cruise holidays. New industry research shows that holidaymakers from the UK and Ireland took a record 2.4 million cruises last year, beating the 2.3 million total in 2023. Not just that, but the average age fell to 54.3, down from 57 in 2019.
That’s just one reason why expedition cruising is on a roll – the fastest-growing sector of the adventure travel market, Natalya Leahy, the boss of National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions, told us on a recent visit to London. A 18-page expedition special in this month’s issue of Stowaway looks at why this is an exciting holiday for both travellers and agents.
We’re also hitting the heights on Celestyal’s new winter cruises in the Arabian Gulf, re-discovering the joys of no-fly cruising and bringing you a first glimpse of APT’s amazing new river ship, Solara. For more information call our sales team on 01243 871664
REGULARS
IN FOCUS
Port and cruise news in pictures.
PORT IN PROFILE
Discover five things to do on a day ashore in Gibraltar.
PORT IN PROFILE
Discover five things to do on a day ashore in Cartagena, Spain.
RIVER CRUISE SPECIAL
News and reviews from the world of river cruising.
NEWS AND REVIEWS
DESERT DAYS
Learn the exciting, wild and expensive things you can do in the Arabian Gulf on a cruise with Celestyal.
RECIPE FOR SUCCESS
Jane Archer uncovers the secrets of Ambassador’s success on a no-fly cruise to Denmark and Norway.
DOURO WITH A DIFFERENCE
The rain in Spain turns a Riviera cruise on the Douro into a magical mystery tour.
RAISING THE BAR
18 EXPEDITION CRUISE SPECIAL
Your 18-page expedition cruise special
24 POLES APART
Know your penguins from your polar bears to get clients on the right cruise.
30 THE MAGNIFICENT THREE
Jane Archer catches up with Seabourn as it marks its third anniversary of expedition cruising.
32 THE GALAPAGOS
Part of Ecuador but 600 miles off the coast of South America, the Galapagos Islands are a wildlife wonderland.
33 THE KIMBERLEY
Discover a thrilling warm-water holiday for clients with a sense of adventure. 34 GREECE
Just because it says expedition on the tin, doesn’t mean it can’t be close to home, says Jane Archer.
Front cover: Joy Whellum - Røde Fjord, Scoresby Sund, Greenland -Aurora
Meet APT’s Solara, a new river ship with a restaurant and bar that literally rises up from one deck to another. Published by Stowaway Publications 10 Tadorne Road, Tadworth KT20 5TD Surrey +44 (0)7802 256275 Written and Edited by: Jane Archer Janearc@aol.com Design: Oddsock Design
Simply the best
SeaDream Yacht Club has taken the best dining experience at sea award in the latest Forbes Travel Guide’s annual Star Awards. The judges dined on SeaDream II, one of the line’s two 112-passenger sister yachts, and commended it for its ‘exceptional cuisine and impeccable service’. They also noted the ‘lingering pleasure of a meal that feels tailor-made for you’. The yachts have just two places to eat, one outside and one inside, and a 1:1 crew to passenger ratio.
Meet HX
Expedition cruise line HX is raising its profile to UK cruise buyers as it counts down to its 130th anniversary in 2026. The company has four expedition vessels – Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen (pictured meeting in the Beaufort Sea), Fram and Spitsbergen – that between them explore the polar regions and Alaska. A fifth vessel, Santa Cruz II, is based in the Galapagos.
A Prince among ports
The port of Prince Rupert in British Columbia is set to more than double its cruise visitor numbers in 2026, with almost 155,000 expected compared to just under 65,000 this year. Many of the additional passengers are coming with Virgin Voyages and RitzCarlton Yacht Club, which will both be visiting the Canadian port for the first time next year, while Princess Cruises has scheduled more calls for Ruby Princess. Once docked, cruisers can see the sights on vintage trolleys, or go hiking, kayaking or whale-watching.
Back to the future
A Music Walk with rock, pop and plenty of soul awaits passengers setting sail on Holland America Line’s first season of no-fly cruises from Dover for 10 years. The voyages are on Nieuw Statendam, one of the line’s newest ships, and run until September (see ex-UK cruising, page 16).
From zero to hero
National Geographic Endeavour made its debut in London in May as part of a strategic push to make National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions the top adventure cruise line in the UK. “More than 80% of our guests are new-tocruise so our rivals are not other expedition lines but land-based adventure companies,” said CEO Natalya Leahy. “For now the UK is tiny for us but the market will love the authentic experiences we offer on board and ashore.” The line has appointed Fred Holidays its UK gsa to kickstart business.
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Bigger and better
A new Mediterranean-themed speciality restaurant, Azure (above), will debut on Seven Seas Prestige, the new Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ ship launching in December 2026. It takes the number of dining options on the ultraluxury vessel to a record 11, joining favourites including Chartreuse, Pacific Rim and Compass Rose (pictured left). Prestige will be Regent’s biggest ship to date, with capacity for 822 passengers, a new-look atrium with twin spiral staircases and a new take – yet to be revealed - on the spacious Regent Suite that features on Seven Seas Explorer, Spendor and Grandeur.
Set sail on the Seine
Emerald Cruises is launching cruises on the Seine in France for the first time in 2027 on the purpose-built river ship Emerald Lumi. Details of the ship and cruise are under wraps but Emerald has confirmed it will sail round-trip from Paris, visit ports including Honfleur and Rouen and there’ll be French-inspired cuisine and wine pairing events on board.
Jane Archer discovers the exciting, wild and expensive things you can do in the Arabian Gulf on a cruise with Celestyal.
Credit: Dubai Tourism
What springs to mind when you think of a desert? Lots of sand, palms trees, camels of course. Probably not ski slopes or wandering herds of giraffes. But hang on. What if we’re talking about the Arabian Gulf, that superlative heaven in the sun where anything is possible?
Even ski slopes and a herd of giraffe.
The former is in Dubai, the latter on Sir Bani Yas Island, a wildlife reserve off the shores of Abu Dhabi, that just 50 years ago was deserted. Today it is home to thousands of animals, most of them donated to Abu Dhabi’s ruling family by other heads of state, millions of plants and trees, and some 300 rangers who look after it all.
It is also a mecca for cruise ships sailing in the Arabian Gulf for the more easy-going beach culture than exists on the mainland as well as open truck wildlife safaris.
It’s not quite Africa – no lions, tigers or buffalo – but we did see the pen where two cheetahs were hiding from the sun, and also ticked off deer, gazelles, Barbary sheep from Morocco, cranes from Uganda, African Oryx, a lonely zebra (hopefully they will be getting a mate for him this year as he looked very sad) and two of the reserve’s 41 giraffe.
We’re here with Celestyal, on the last sailing of a hugely successful debut winter season cruising the Arabian Gulf –so successful in fact that for winter 2025-26 the company is moving both its ships here.
Celestyal Journey, the ship we’re on, will be back sailing one-week Desert Days voyages round-trip from Doha, the capital of Qatar, while its fleet mate, Celestyal Discovery, has three and four-night Iconic Arabia cruises from Abu Dhabi that can be combined into a one-week voyage.
Discovering Doha
We only had a night in Doha before sailing, but it’s worth adding a few more so there’s time to see some of the city’s top sights. The National Museum, built in the shape of a sand rose, is one; Souq Waqif, with its narrow streets and local restaurants, is another. If time allows, a traditional dhow sailing is a great way to admire the spectacular skyscrapers that line the bay.
Our cruise had a port a day, but for the 2025-26 season our call into Khasab in Oman has been replaced by a day at sea en route to Dubai, which Celestyal uses as an alternative embarkation port and where Journey stays overnight as there is such a lot to see and do.
Us? We’re off on a late afternoon trip into the desert, first for a bit of 4x4 dune-bashing – a fun activity that involves skidding up and down sandy dunes and requires a strong stomach – and then for an evening of food and entertainment under the stars courtesy of whirling dervishes and a fire juggler.
Celestyal Journey
Celestyal Journey holds 1,260 passengers, has accommodation ranging from inside cabins to oversized Grand Dream Suites and one Stargazer suite, as many bars and lounges as days of the week and a variety of places to eat.
The Thalassa main dining room is open to all and Smoked Olive is for suite guests only.
A buffet is open for breakfast and lunch, and has themed dinners each evening. A Greek Deli by the pool serves gyros (think salad and chicken in a wrap). Speciality restaurants, Pink Moon for Asian and Grill Seekers, which is heavy on steaks, cost extra (prices are à la carte).
Main picture: An exciting excursion takes you 4x4 dune-bashing in the desert. Insert: A whirling dervish in action.
The ship has outdoor and pools, the latter with a retractable roof. There’s a large spa and thermal suite (free to use for those in Grand Dream and Stargazer suites), production shows in the theatre and late-night disco.
Just remember to pack a jumper as it gets very chilly in the desert after dark.
Next morning we meet Ali, one of the world’s most excitable guides – but only if he is talking about his own country. “We have no taxes bar VAT at 5%, the government is rich, we are rich, we have the richest country in the world,” he enthuses.
The country has gone from zero to hero in a short time, transforming itself from a small fishing village in the desert just 60 years ago, when oil was discovered, to a place where only the biggest, best and tallest will do. “We want to be number one; never number two,” he says.
He points out the aforementioned ski slope, which of course is the biggest in the world, and the famous Burg Al Arab hotel, where the Royal Suite costs $54,000 a night. Surely the most expensive in the world. The price excludes breakfast, but you do get a private cook, butler and chauffeur with a white Rolls Royce. “There is a waiting list,” Ali tells us proudly.
Tallest and fastest
We’re going to visit, what else, Burg Khalifa, which is not only the tallest building in the world – about three times higher than The Shard in London – but has the world’s fastest lift, speeding to the observation deck on the 125th floor in 60 seconds.
What Ali neglects to mention is that getting to the lift means standing in the slowest queue in the world – an exasperating 90 minutes of shuffling and waiting.
Sir Bani Yas Island is a welcome respite after all the excesses of Dubai, but it all ramps up a gear again in Abu Dhabi – literally –with theme parks, SeaWorld and the Yas Marina F1 circuit among excursions. If that sounds a bit much, there’s always a trip the Louvre or spectacular Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque.
In Bahrain, a full-day tour whisked us around one of the largest mosques in the world (shhh – don’t tell Dubai), a grand fort and the national museum. It was interesting stuff, but my abiding memory will always be the traditional mezze at the end. Plates and plates of hummus, bread, kebabs, grilled sausages and chicken kept coming and it was all so yummy we just kept eating.
Celestyal 2025
Celestyal Journey and Celestyal Discovery are cruising three, four and seven and 14-night cruises from Piraeus or Lavrion (Athens) this summer that visit the Greek Islands, Turkey, Croatia, Montenegro and Italy. Prices from £329pp for three nights in August.
In December 2025, both ships relocate to the Arabian Gulf. Celestyal Journey has seven-night Desert Days cruises round-trip from Doha that call into Dubai, Sir Bani Yas Island, Abu Dhabi and Bahrain, and cost from £629pp departing December 2025.
Celestyal Discovery has three-night cruises from Abu Dhabi that visit Dubai and Sir Bani Yas Island, and four-night cruises that visit Doha, Ras al Khaimah and Kasab in Oman. The cruises can be combined into a seven-night Iconic Arabia itinerary. Prices start from £279pp for three nights in December.
Why choose Celestyal?
✔ Great value cruises.
✔ Casual, relaxed vibe.
✔ Charming crew.
✔ Quirky shows (don’t miss barman JD’s great magic shows on Celestyal Journey).
✔ Exciting choice of itineraries in Greece and Arabian Gulf.
The Burg Khalifa is the tallest building in the world. Left: Celestyal Journey returns to the Arabian Gulf in December 2025.
TAKE FIVE: Gibraltar
FIND THE ANGEL
St Michael’s Cave is a vast cavern filled with centuries-old stalagmites and stalactites, including hundreds that have formed themselves into the shape of an angel. Spectacular is no exaggeration. Unsurprisingly it’s Gibraltar’s mostpopular attraction.
STEP OUT
It’s got museums, beaches, a botanic garden and even a small zoo, but Gibraltar will always be most famous for being a British enclave in the sun with a massive rock that’s inhabited by a troop of Barbary macaques.
Here are five things to do on a day ashore there.
The Monkey Trail around Gibraltar’s Nature Reserve is just under two miles and follows a route around the Barbary macaques’ favourite hang-outs. It’s one of several themed trails in the reserve, with others for history buffs, nature lovers and thrill-seekers.
INTO THE ROCK
No trip to Gibraltar is complete without exploring inside the Rock, where the British dug tunnels to fend off the Spanish during the Great Siege from 1779 to 1783. During the Second World War, another 34 miles of tunnels was dug to house the 16,000-strong garrison stationed in Gibraltar along with enough food to last 16 months.
IN SUSPENSE
The Windsor Suspension Bridge in Gibraltar’s Nature Reserve is 75 metres long (the length of 7.5 London buses), spans a 50-metre deep gorge and sways as you walk across. For those who dare to look, the views are fabulous.
DOLPHIN WATCHING
Dolphins love the waters around Gibraltar. Boat tours in search of the frolicking cetaceans run year-round from the Marina Bay area, a short walk from the cruise ship dock. Who goes there
Fred
P&O
Seabourn
SeaDream Yacht
Silversea
Windstar Cruises
DISCOVER GIBRALTAR
Embark on a cruise to Gibraltar—where history, stunning views, and unique wildlife come together. Visit the famous Rock, shop duty-free, and enjoy Mediterranean charm. Whether you’re exploring its rich heritage or relaxing on the coast, Gibraltar offers unforgettable experiences.
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RECIPE FOR success
Jane Archer discovers the secrets of Ambassador’s success on a no-fly cruise to Denmark and Norway.
I’d forgotten how easy it was. We’ve just parked the car, crossed the road, checked in and, barely breaking step, are already on our ship. Total time car to cabin, 20 minutes. No wonder so many people choose to cruise from the UK – almost as many as those who fly to join their ship, according to Clia.
We’re cruising from Tilbury to Denmark and Norway, sailing for the first time with Ambassador Cruise Line, a company that promises value-for-money no-fly cruise holidays for the British market; by the end of day two it’s clear that it delivers on that promise in spades.
Everyone we meet is a firm fan, loving that they don’t have to fly and can have three or four cruises each year with Ambassador for the same price as one holiday with other lines. And they do. One couple was on the previous cruise and stayed on for ours because it’s so affordable; others have lined up several sailings for the rest of the year.
Ambience started life as the very American Regal Princess, then moved Down Under to sail under the now-defunct P&O Australia banner. Now it is as British as a stick of rock.
You eat in the Buckingham Restaurant or Borough Market self-service. You find Dickens, a café, in Centre Court, a three-deck-high atrium in the middle of the ship. At the top of the atrium, the elegant SW19 is a favourite pre-dinner bar, along with Raffles Bar and Botanics. The theatre, naturally, is dubbed The Palladium.
The Danish capital, Copenhagen, is a favourite call on Ambassador's cruises to the Baltic and Scandinavia. Below: Skagen in Denmark is famous for a church buried under the shifting sands.
Keeping tradition
Ambassador also keeps the cruising traditions of formal nights (there were two on our sevennight cruise) and set dining, where you eat at the same table with the same people at the same time each night. It’s not our favourite arrangement, but other passengers seemed to like it and happily we struck lucky, with two nice table companions and two lovely waiters, who were always smiling and kept our wine glasses full.
Individual drinks prices are not extortionate, but most people had splashed out on a package, which makes a lot of sense. The Expedition package is the best as it covers almost every drink you could ever want, also includes tips, and costs just £49.95 per person per day for seven nights if booked in advance.
We did skip off from our table mates a couple of times – once to try Saffron, an Indian speciality restaurant that is sadly under-used, although a very reasonable £19.95, and another time as we were guests on the Captain’s Table - another cruising tradition Ambassador keeps and its passengers love.
The entertainment on Ambassador is not as hi-tech as on modern ships, but whether songand-dance shows, comedians or quizzes, there was always a packed house. It was all good, but they kept the best to last, namely a brilliant Fleetwood Mac tribute on the final evening performed by the in-house band that was preceded by a wonderfully inventive murder-mystery.
As with the Mousetrap, the long-running Agatha Christie play in London, we are all sworn to secrecy so if you want to know whodunnit – and yes, it really is worth it - you’ll have to get on board.
Holland America Line returns to British shores
Holland America Line has based a ship in the UK for the first time in a decade this year as it seeks to capitalise on the continued growth in the no-fly market.
The cruises are on the 2,666-passenger Nieuw Statendam, which departed on its maiden voyage from Dover at the end of April and will be homeporting at the Kent port until September.
Sailings range from 14 to 42 days and include voyages around the British Isles, and to Norway and Iceland. The final departure of the season takes Nieuw Statendam from Dover to Barcelona or, for those who have the time, on a 28day sailing from the UK to Piraeus, the port for Athens.
White cliffs
“Returning to the famous White cliffs marks an exciting new chapter for us,” said Karen Farndell, UK director of sales and marketing.
“The cruises will raise awareness of Holland America in the UK and hopefully encourage the British to try our other ships.”
Nieuw Statendam returns to Dover in 2026 with seven and 14-night cruises to the Norwegian fjords, Iceland and Canary Islands between April and September.
Cruising with Ambassador
Ambassador Cruise Line has two ships, Ambience and Ambition, which hold 1,400 and 1,200 passengers respectively. Ambience cruises mainly from Tilbury, Ambition sails from a mix of UK ports including Falmouth, Newcastle, Bristol, Dundee, Liverpool and Belfast.
Both ships are for adults only, but there are a few family departures in the summer. Passengers can take their pick from cabins or suites (ours was a lovely big room with a bed that faced the window). A few double occupancy rooms are set aside for solo travellers and have low single supplements.
Both ships cruise regularly around the UK and to the Norwegian fjords and Scandinavia. There are also voyages to Spain and Portugal, the Canary Islands and France, as well as a few long sailings to the Caribbean in winter.
Raffles Bar is one of the favourite pre-dinner hangouts on Ambience.
EXPEDITION CRUISINGIntroducing
A leopard seal in Antarctica takes a break on the ice.
Credit: Michelle Sole.
Expedition cruising has become the fastest-growing segment in the adventure travel market as more travellers seek to explore out-of-theway places on a new-generation of luxury ships that offer everything from suite living to butlers and submarines.
New names that have appeared in the sector in the past few years include Swan Hellenic and Atlas Ocean Voyages, while Seabourn, one of the world’s leading ultra-luxury cruise lines, entered the expedition sector in 2022 with its first ice-strengthened ship, Seabourn Venture, and a year later followed up with Seabourn Pursuit.
Silversea, meanwhile, pipped other suitors to the post and acquired the former Crystal Endeavor in 2022, renaming it Silver Endeavour (with the added u) in a Champagne-filled ceremony in Antarctica.
No matter which expedition line clients cruise with or where they go, it won’t be cheap, which is a good incentive for agents to tap into this market. All they have to do is get to grips with a style of cruising where wellington boots and thick coats are the order of the day and entertainment means a lecture about penguins or icebergs.
Small ships
Only ships carrying under 500 passengers are allowed to make landings in Antarctica. In factmost expedition carry 200 or less due to the time it takes to get everyone ashore via the inflatable Zodiacs. ›
IS EXPEDITION CRUISING FOR ME?
Polar regions
✔ You have a sense of adventure and are keen to see places away from the tourist haunts.
✔ You have cruised the Med, Caribbean and Baltic and are ready to try something different as long as it’s still at sea.
✔ You missed out on a gap year and fancy soft adventure without roughing it.
✔ You are interested in seeing and learning about wildlife, nature and the environment.
✔ You have teenagers who do not need constant entertaining.
✘ The new generation of expedition ships might be more suitable for disabled passengers than the older vessels still in operation but getting ashore will always be a problem. Those with mobility problems should discuss with their agent before booking.
Albatros Expeditions
Atlas Ocean Voyages
AE Expeditions
Additionally, only 100 people are allowed ashore at any one time.
Once on land, passengers must stay within the areas marked out by the expedition team; depending on numbers they might only have an hour before they have to return to their ship so others can go ashore.
New this year, Svalbard has banned ships carrying more than 200 passengers from its national parks and nature reserves and reduced the number of landing sites to 43. Ships and Zodiacs must also keep at least 500 meters from polar bears from March 1
to June 30 (300 meters between July 1 and February 28), which makes viewing them more challenging.
In the Galapagos, ships can hold a maximum 100 people and itineraries are carefully planned so there is only ever one vessel at each landing site to ensure the wildlife is not disturbed.
A different way to cruise
Expedition cruising is about as different to a traditional holiday at sea as is possible.
Rather than cathedrals, museums and water parks, outings mean visits to glaciers and
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Kayaking in Spitsbergen with Aurora Expeditions. Credit : Al Bakker
waterfalls, fishing for piranha fish, tiptoeing through basking iguanas, trekking through snow, seeing penguins or watching out (literally) for polar bears.
Life on board is very casual. Jeans and t-shirts are more appropriate than dinner jackets and cocktail dresses, and rather than glitzy production shows and bingo, there are lectures about the environment and wildlife from teams of biologists, geologists, historians, marine scientists and other experts.
Passengers can expect to learn about whales and penguins on cruises to Antarctica and about polar bears if in Spitsbergen. In the Amazon it’s all about rainforests, wildlife and birds; in the Northwest Passage it’s the history of explorers.
Expedition teams also guide trips ashore (these are included but there is often a charge for activities such as kayaking or camping in Antarctica) and take Zodiac cruises up close to glaciers, rainforests and cliffs swarming in seabirds.
None of this comes cheap. Cruises start at about £8,000 per person for a week excluding flights. For the right client, it’s a small price to pay for a once-in-a-lifetime experience. ›
WHEN TO GO
✔ Antarctica cruises operate in the austral summer, between November and March, when much of the sea ice has melted. In November the continent is at its most pristine (but it will likely also be much colder); mid-February to March is the best time to spot whales.
✔ Cruises to the Arctic (that’s Spitsbergen, Greenland and Northwest Passage) run between June and September. In June and July, the days are long as the sun never sets.
✔ Cruise lines sail in the Kimberley in the dry season, April to October, when temperatures average 30C. In the wet, November to March, temperatures top 40C and roads become impassable due to flooding.
✔ Galapagos cruises operate year-round. The hottest weather is January to May, when it is most likely to rain. June to December is dry and a bit cooler.
✔ The Amazon is warm and humid year-round (between 21C and 31C). High water season is December to May, low water from June to November, but this is rainforest so clients should expect precipitation anytime. Ocean-going cruise ships are there in winter between December and March.
Is it right for you?
Expedition cruise clients range from seasoned cruisers keen to try something more daring than a well-scripted two-week sailing in the Med to clients who have never set foot on a ship but are looking for the best way to see Antarctica, the Arctic and Galapagos.
Cruise buyers who have previously been on an African safari or soft adventure holiday are also likely candidates. It’s worth stressing that whereas on safari you may or may not see wildlife, on a cruise in Antarctica and Galapagos you cannot miss seeing penguins, birds and other animals.
Where to go?
Antarctica is top of the list for every adventure cruiser. It’s a long way to travel but visitors are rewarded with icebergs the size of houses, hundreds of whales and millions of penguins. And of course they’ll have the privilege of being among the few people who ever get to set foot on the most inhospitable continent in the world.
Once Antarctica is done, it’s time to swap penguins for polar bears on a cruise to the Arctic. There are cruises around Spitsbergen, the nearest most vessels can get to the North Pole, to Greenland and through the Northwest Passage, the icy waterway between
Greenland and Arctic Canada.
Those who prefer warmer climes can get close to wildlife in the Galapagos, where the animals have no fear of humans. They can see gushing waterfalls, coral reefs and crocodiles in the Kimberley in Australia, and tropical birds and piranha fish on cruises on the Amazon River in Brazil.
On all these cruises itineraries are more like guidelines, especially in the polar regions. Captains will try to visit all the places scheduled but the actual route will depend on weather and wildlife. Wind, ice and fog can scupper landings in Antarctica; in the Arctic, a polar bear sighting will halt plans for a walk ashore.
WHAT TO PACK Polar regions
✔ Wellington boots (available to rent, sometimes for a fee) and waterproof trousers are a must for Antarctica as you invariably have to step into the sea to get from the landing craft to the beach.
✔ Cruise ships might be in Antarctica in summer but it is still close to freezing so warm jumpers, woolly hats, scarves and gloves are a must.
✔ The Arctic isn’t as chilly but it is still cold so warm clothes are needed, as well as stout walking shoes and waterproof trousers for trips ashore.
✔ Most cruise lines provide complimentary parkas for passengers sailing in the polar regions.
GALAPAGOS AND KIMBERLEY
✔ These areas are tropical so light clothing, hats and sunscreen are needed. Waterproof sandals are useful for wading ashore from the Zodiacs.
EXPEDITION RIVER CRUISING
Can river cruising ever be adventurous? It can with Pandaw, which has exciting cruises on the Red River in Northern Vietnam that visit Ha’Long Bay and Hanoi, and on the Mekong in Laos and Ganges and Brahmaputra in India that visit remote towns and villages where westerners are a rarity.
New in September 2025, Pandaw is launching seven-night cruises on the Kerala Backwaters in India that explore narrow canals and visit traditional boatyards and bird sanctuaries.
APT and Uniworld River Cruises also have expeditionlike cruises on the Ganges, while National GeographicLindblad Expeditions, Avalon Waterways and Uniworld explore on the Amazon in Peru, where adventure lovers can hike and paddle through jungle, getting close to the wildlife.
Credit: David Merron.
Main picture: Exploring the Gaffelbreen glacier in Spitsbergen by Zodiac with Aurora Expeditions.
Above left: Taking the polar plunge from an Atlas Ocean Voyages' ship.
Above: Emperor penguins at Snow Hill, Antarctica.
POLES
apart
You need to know your penguins from their polar bears to make sure you get on the right cruise.
Penguins in Antarctica play follow the leader.
Credit: Atlas Ocean Voyages.
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THE ARCTIC ANTARCTICA vs
The Arctic and Antarctica tend to be lumped together as the polar regions, and they do indeed share traits such as ice and freezing temperatures but otherwise they are like chalk and cheese.
Antarctica is a vast continent almost 60 times the size of Britain during the austral summer (our winter) that spends half the year in total darkness and where the only human inhabitants are scientists. The Arctic, on the other hand, is an area defined by a imaginary circle in the Northern Hemisphere with the North Pole at its centre.
The Arctic
Radiating out from the North Pole, the Arctic encompasses Greenland, Svalbard, Norway, Russia and Canada and numerous islands in the Labrador Sea. It is also home to Inuit, Norwegians, Russians, Canadians and a host of other nationalities.
It might be less remote and hostile than the South Pole, but it’s no less of an adventure. The wild landscapes, seabird populations and icebergs are spectacular, and who would say no the chance to see polar bears. Viewings have to be from a distance, but when one is spotted you can cut the excitement with a knife.
Cruises operate in the summer and include adventures in eastern or western Greenland, around Spitsbergen or through the Northwest Passage between Arctic Canada and Greenland.
Northwest Passage
In 1845, British explorer Sir John Franklin set out from Greenhithe in Kent to find the sea route between Greenland and Arctic Canada. One year later, after a last known stop on Beechey Island, he and all his men vanished.
It took another 65 years before Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen made history as the first man to navigate the passage. It took him three years; these days expedition vessels do the journey in two or three weeks, depending on the itinerary.
There are various routes through the channels and islands; all visit remote islands and local settlements and, if weather allows, include a landing on Beechey Island, where in 1850 a rescue expedition found the graves of three of Franklin’s crew.
Greenland
Greenland is an autonomous country within the Kingdom of Denmark and not just the largest island in the world, but also one of the most inappropriately-named ones as about 80% of its land mass is covered by the only permanent ice sheet outside Antarctica.
Cruises operate in the summer months and variously explore the west, south and east coasts, where highlights include giant icebergs in Disko Bay and the fjords and glaciers of Scoresby Sund. In Ilulissat, on the west coast, boat tours visit the mouth of the icefjord where giant icebergs that have broken off the Jakobshaven Glacier jostle to get into the open water.
Spitsbergen
The largest island in the Norwegian-owned Svalbard archipelago, Spitsbergen is the nearest most expedition ships can get to the North Pole, some 1,338km away (Ponant’s Le Commandant Charcot is an exception and has five expeditions to the Geographical North Pole between now and August 2026).
Cruises start in Longyearbyen or Tromso in Norway and aim to circumnavigate or part-circumnavigate the island, although the actual route depends on weather, ice and polar bears. They are the main attraction, but there is plenty of other wildlife including walruses, seals and whales.
TOP TIPS WHEN BOOKING
✔ Cruises depart in the summer months, when the ice has melted enough for ships to navigate around Spitsbergen.
✔ Several cruise lines offer kayak tours that take passengers paddling through small icebergs, known as growlers.
✔ Seals, whales, polar bears and the story of the ill-fated Franklin Expedition are among highlights for those cruising the Northwest Passage.
✔ Put the price of a once-in-a-lifetime adventure against the actual cost of the cruise to show what value you are getting.
WHAT TO PACK FOR THE POLES
✔ Walking shoes and waterproof trousers
✔ Warm jumpers, woolly hats, scarves and gloves
✔ A rain and wind-proof coat
✔ Binoculars
✔ Cameras, iPhones, chargers and plenty of storage space for pictures
Polar bears are the main attraction for those going to the Arctic regions.
Credit: Chris Van Hove.
Atlas Ocean Voyages offers various activities in Antarctica, including kayaking and camping.
Antarctica
Antarctica is in the southern hemisphere, which means its seasons are the opposite of those in the UK. Our winter is the summer in Antarctica, while our summer is winter at the South Pole.
Cruises operate from late October to March, when there is less sea ice. Summer temperatures in the Antarctic Peninsula average 2˚C.
Some cruise lines have non-landing voyages in Antarctica that enable passengers to see penguins, seals, icebergs and whales from their ship, but to experience it properly customers need to travel on an expedition ship so they can go ashore and set foot on the continent.
Most cruises depart from Ushuaia, a town on the southern-most tip of Argentina, or from Punta Arenas in Chile. Silversea’s cruises depart uniquely from Puerto Williams, also in Chile. Its passengers overnight in Santiago before being flown south to join their ship on an exclusive business-class-style charter plane.
Wherever they start, cruisers will cross the Drake Passage, a notorious 1,000km of waters that veers from being the Drake shake to Drake lake. Cruises average 10 nights, which includes two days going each way over the Drake and five or six days to explore the Antarctic Peninsula. For those with more time, there are three-week cruises that also take in South Georgia and the Falkland Islands (see right).
If the prospect of a ‘shake’ doesn’t appeal – it is a reason why a lot of people will not go to Antarctica – clients can fly there, cruise the peninsula and fly home. Silversea, Quark, National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions and AE Expeditions are among those offering flycruises.
Silversea currently flies passengers from Punta Arenas. Starting January 2026, they will be flown to Puerto Williams and stay in Silversea’s new hotel, The Cormorant at 55 South, before their onward flight to Antarctica. They will also overnight in the hotel on the way home.
ANTARCTICA HIGHLIGHTS
✔ Half-Moon Island. Only 2km long, but it has dramatic rock formations, multi-coloured lichens and a large population of Chinstrap penguins. Whales are often spotted patrolling the shores.
✔ Lemaire Channel. This narrow passage – just 1,600 metres at its widest point - is nicknamed Kodak Gap because the scenery is stunning. Think steep cliffs, mountain peaks, icebergs and a hangout for Minke or Humpback whales.
✔ Paradise Harbour. An aptly-named bay surrounded by glaciated mountains and ice cliffs that’s home to a rookery of Gentoo penguins.
✔ Gerlache Strait. A likely spot to see Humpback and Minke whales, Chinstrap penguins and Leopard seals.
✔ Port Lockroy. The former British base at Port Lockroy is now curated by the UK Antarctica Heritage Trust. Visitors can look around huts preserved as they were in the 1940s and there is a shop for souvenir hunters.
Follow the rules
Under the rules of the Antarctic Treaty, only ships carrying 500 passengers or less are allowed to take people ashore. Landings are made in inflatable Zodiacs, often stepping into water, so boots and good mobility are a must.
The rules also only allow 100 people on land at a time. Once ashore they must stay in marked areas, try to walk in tracks made by the expedition team and keep at least five metres from the penguins. That is often easier said than done as the penguins have a habit of getting close to their visitors; if that happens, wait patiently for them to move.
Collecting stones or other souvenirs is strictly forbidden, as is dropping litter. Back on board, boots must be washed and disinfected to avoid contaminating the next landing site.
The Falkland Islands
Most Brits had probably never heard of these islands until the Argentineans invaded in 1982. Now it is a popular add-on to longer cruises to Antarctica.
The main port and capital is Stanley, a small town where pubs and corner shops are the mainstay of the community, while the islands are a bit like the Devon moors - wild and windswept but with penguins instead of ponies.
Excursions visit Gentoo and King penguin rookeries in Bluff Cove, and Rockhoppers in Berkeley Sound. There are also battlefield tours and trips to working farms to learn about farming in this harsh terrain.
South Georgia
Some 800 miles south-east of the Falkland Islands, South Georgia is famous as the place where the explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton found help to rescue his failed mission to reach the South Pole in 1916.
Just 100 miles long and 20 miles wide, the island was discovered by James Cook in 1775 and for the next 200 years was the scene of mass slaughter as the sealing and whaling industries wiped out entire populations of fur seals and cetaceans.
Cruise passengers visit with far more peaceful intent – namely to see Shackleton’s grave in Grytviken, admire the Alps-like scenery and marvel at the abundance of wildlife, including the huge populations of fur and elephant seals that have returned now the hunters have gone, millions of penguins and thousands of albatrosses.
ANTARCTICA SELLING TIPS
✔ Antarctica cruises aren’t cheap but this is a once-in-a-lifetime experience that is worth a splurge.
✔ To set foot on Antarctica clients must choose a ship with no more than 500 passengers.
✔ Cruises that combine Antarctica, South Georgia and the Falklands offer the ultimate in exploration cruising.
✔ Customers must expect the unexpected. This is a big adventure in a hostile climate and itineraries are wholly dependent on the weather.
Above: Ponant's Le Lyrial nestles into the Antarctic ice. Main picture: A lone Adelie penguin takes a break. Credit: Richard Harker.
THE THREE magnificent
Jane Archer catches up with Seabourn as it marks its third anniversary of expedition cruising.
Seabourn Pursuit is exploring the Kimberley in Western Australia for a second summer season.
They say time flies when you’re having fun so one can only imagine what a ball the boss of Seabourn’s expedition cruise arm has been having since the company burst into the sector in 2022 with Seabourn Venture, its first purpose-built expedition ship.
“It’s been amazing. So busy. I can’t believe it’s been three years,” says Robin West, the company’s expeditions vice-president and general manager. Busy is no exaggeration. In that time Seabourn has launched a second expedition ship, Seabourn Pursuit, and seen both ships complete two full seasons in Antarctica.
It has also had a full season in the Kimberley, in Western Australia, where Pursuit was named in a special ceremony at Ngala Jar Island by representatives of the Wunambal Gaambera Traditional Owners.
“That naming made such an impression,” says West. “It raised awareness [of the cruises] and led to strong bookings.”
Partnership
It also marked the beginning of a partnership between Seabourn and the Wunambal Gaambera that has helped unlock funding for the community to build a visitor centre on Jar Island for cruise passengers.
The island is home to centuries-old Gwion Gwion rock art; with the visitor centre the local community can become more engaged with guests and build on the tourism opportunities by selling their arts and crafts.
Seabourn may have only completed one Kimberley season – its second started in May - but West says bookings are almost on a par with the Arctic, with a lot of this year’s
departures sold out, mostly to Australians.
“We are getting bookings from the US and UK but it is a big educational process as a lot of people have never heard of the Kimberley and don’t know why it is so special. Actually a lot of Australians don’t know where it is either,” West laughs.
Just over half of Seabourn’s Kimberley sailings are APT charters under a threeyear partnership signed last year that will also see APT offer exclusive cruises on Seabourn's expedition sailings in the Arctic and Antarctica.
Challenging times
West admits the new regulations introduced in Svalbard this year have made cruising in the Arctic more challenging. Among other measures, they have more than halved the available landing sites and limited to 100and sometimes less - the number of people allowed ashore at any one time.
Nonetheless, the prospect of seeing polar bears, walruses, icebergs and whales keeps the region high on cruisers’ must-do lists, making it Seabourn’s second biggest seller.
Top of the list of course is Antarctica, where visitors are promised majestic scenery, massive icebergs, millions of penguins and, says West, whales “like you wouldn’t believe” if you go in the late season.
“We’re extending the season in 2027 as the whale populations are really spectacular if you go later. It’s like whale soup,” he enthuses. “The last cruises of the season now are the end of February. In 2027 it will be mid-March and we’ll be marketing it as a whale-watching cruise.”
He is also taking the ships down earlier as last season Seabourn was there in the last week of October, when the sea was still full of ice and the Gentoo penguins were starting to come ashore for breeding. ”We had some incredible ice cruising. It was one of the highest rated sailings of the season.”
West says the passenger mix in Antarctica is more like Seabourn’s classic ships, with around 50% from the US and a strong showing of Brits and Australians. A majority of guests are new to brand but also first-time cruisers.
“Antarctica and expedition generally pulls in a lot of people who are new to cruise because it is often the only way to see many of these places,” says West. “It creates a different mindset. People who say they will never go on a ship will go on an expedition cruise and when they see what it’s like, they will try a classic voyage with us.”
Part of the experience
For now West has no plans for Antarctic flycruises. “Crossing the Drake is a historical journey and important part of the Antarctica experience. You see how the wildlife and temperatures change the closer you get.”
With Seabourn firmly established in the three top expedition destinations, where else would he like to operate? “I’d love to go the Indian Ocean. Mozambique, Madagascar, Tanzania, Mauritius, Sri Lanka. We’re looking at it for 2028-29. I think that’ll be the year we shake things up a bit; maybe alternating a Kimberley season with the Indian Ocean.”
Or maybe getting a new ship? “I’d love that,” is all West will say.
Credit: Seabourn.
King penguin colony in Antarctica.
Zodiac cruising in the Arctic.
The Galapagos
Factfile
NUMBER OF ISLANDS:
20 islands and 42 islets.
CAPITAL:
Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristóbal Island. Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island is the biggest town.
WHEN TO GO:
The islands are on the Equator so there is always 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of night. The temperature averages from 26C to 31C. The hottest
Part of Ecuador but 600 miles off the coast of South America, the Galapagos Islands are forever linked to Charles Darwin, whose book, The Origin of Species, was based on theories he developed on a visit there in 1835.
He expected to find volcanoes, but instead observed animals and birds that had adapted to the island environments in which they lived. There were lizards that swam, cormorants that could not fly and finches with different-shaped beaks depending whether they had fruit, seeds or
more than 100 passengers. Landings are made in tenders or Zodiacs to see bluefooted booby birds, playful sea lions, giant tortoises, lava lizards and more, all with no fear of humans.
Some days instead of landings there might be Zodiac cruises in search of wildlife. Most itineraries include time to swim or snorkel with the animals. Scuba diving can usually be arranged at extra cost.
Visitors can only go ashore with a guide registered by the Galapagos National Park. They must keep a distance from the animals and move carefully and quietly so as not to scare them. Those who go snorkelling are not to touch plants or animals in the water.
In Puerto Ayora in Santa Cruz, the biggest town in the islands, passengers are free to wander alone and explore the souvenir shops, usually after visiting the Charles Darwin Research Centre.
A trip into the highlands on Santa Cruz to get up close to giant tortoises. These were almost wiped out in the 1800s as passing sailors took them to eat but numbers are increasing thanks to painstaking breeding programmes.
Zodiac boat rides around small bays and through dense mangroves to get a glimpse of penguins, pelicans and flightless cormorants.
The wooden barrel on Floreana Island that has served as a mail box since 1793.
Passengers on passing ships leave postcards for others to collect and deliver. The finches said to have inspired Charles Darwin because they have developed different-shaped beaks depending on their primary foodstuff.
There are no ports in the Galapagos so the only way on and off ships – even on embarkation and disembarkation day – is by inflatable zodiac, often landing onto beach
Most itineraries include time to snorkel with sea turtles, penguins and sea lions. Snorkels, masks and flippers can usually be borrowed for free.
Ships come in all sizes from tiny yachts that hold just 16 passengers to luxury vessels that accommodate 100 people in suites with balconies.
Credit: Ashton Ray Hansen.
Top and left: Visitors to the Galapagos can get up close to sea lions and blue-footed boobie birds.
The Kimberley
Across the top of Western Australia, the Kimberley is the size of England but is home to just over 40,000 people and so few roads that a cruise is by far the best way to visit – especially as any roads there are become almost impassable in the wet, between November and April, when up to 50 inches of rain falls.
Although still relatively unknown, the region is increasingly popular with expedition cruise lines looking for thrilling warmwater holidays for clients with a sense of adventure.
They won’t be disappointed. Over the course of a week they’ll take Zodiac cruises through a stunning sandstone gorge that leads to the tumbling twin King George Falls, see ancient Aboriginal rock art and get up close to the amazing Horizontal Falls.
They’ll witness the extraordinary spectacle of a coral reef apparently rising out of the water – a result of the region’s huge tidal range (up to 12 metres, one of the largest on the planet) – and maybe fly over the Bungle Bungles, a range of beehive-shaped sandstone structures some 250 metres
Planning tips
high in the Purnululu National Park, a vast wilderness almost the size of Luxembourg.
Knowing there are aggressive saltwater crocodiles lurking beneath the waves, curtailing swimming and limiting shore landings, only adds to the excitement.
Ships even have to anchor some way out from land in several spots because much of the coast is still not fully charted. The Kimberley is remote indeed, even by Australian standards.
Cruises operate between Broome in Western Australia, a town built up on the pearling industry but these days most famous for its long sandy Cable Beach, and Darwin, named after the British evolutionist although he was never there.
Clients with time in the city at the start or end of their cruise can visit Kakadu National Park, dive into the local street culture at Mindil Beach Sunset Market (Thursday and Sunday evenings) or visit an exhibition at the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory that recreates the night of Christmas Eve 1974 when Darwin was hit by a devastating cyclone.
✔ Read up on the cruise itineraries to paint an exciting picture of what your cruise will offer.
✔ A Kimberley cruise is perfect for everyone seeking a holiday packed with excitement and adventure.
✔ Australia is a long way to go for 10 nights so package the cruise around a longer stay. Some beach time in Broome, a few days in Cairns to visit the Great Barrier Reef and a couple of nights in Sydney would be great additions.
✔ Break the price into a daily cost to show what great value it is for such a once-in-alifetime experience.
Top five highlights
✔ Watching the Montgomery Reef rise out of the water. It’s an optical illusion of course. In fact the tide is falling. Zodiacs can get close to the water cascading off the side.
✔ A helicopter ride to the Mitchell Falls, where water tumbles over four tiers some 80 metres high. You can take a dip in the Mitchell River at the top as there are no crocs.
✔ A Zodiac cruise to the Horizontal Falls in Talbot Bay. The phenomenon is created by a break in the cliffs through which millions of gallons of sea powers in and out depending whether the tide is rising or falling.
✔ A boat ride down the Hunter River on the look out for birds, crabs and fearsome 'salties' – the Australian nickname for the saltwater crocodiles that lurk in the mangroves.
✔ Discovering aborigine rock art depicting human figures that is believed to be 50,000 years old.
Top: Zodiac cruise along the King George River. Above: A fearsome saltwater crocodile.
Greece
Just because it says expedition on the tin, doesn’t mean it can’t be close to home, says Jane Archer.
I can guess what you are thinking. An expedition cruise in Greece? Really? Well yes. Not on conventional cruise ships with the likes of Royal Caribbean International or Oceania Cruises, of course, but with Variety Cruises, a Greek specialist with small ships that can get into islands and ports off the beaten track.
Its Unexplored Greece cruises on the 49-passenger Panorama this summer and next, for instance, start in Marina Zeas, a small yachting harbour away from the busy port of Piraeus, before going on to discover littleknown islands that offer everything from world heritage sites to wineries and thermal spas.
There’s hiking in Ikaria and Iraklia, a chance to meet sponge divers in Kalymnos, an overnight in medieval Amorgas, where the movie Big Blue was shot, caves and rock pools to explore on a swim stop at Koufonisia and trips to a winery tour in Serifos.
“It’s an itinerary only private yachts can perform, well off the beaten track and beyond the reach of even mid-sized cruise ships,” says Chris Lorenzo, managing director of Seafarer Cruises, which sells Variety in the
Expedition cruises close to home
✔ Silversea debuted expedition cruises around the British Isles this year and is back with two more in 2026 that visit islands including Tresco in the Isles of Scilly, Lunga and Shiant in Scotland, and Lindisfarne, off the northeast coast of England. Included excursions variously take passengers on Zodiac cruises, hikes and kayaking in search of puffins, guillemots, Arctic terns, seals and other wildlife. The cruises depart April 23 (Dublin to Leith) and May 25 (Tower Bridge in London to Leith); prices from £8,900pp for 11 days excluding flights.
✔ Swan Hellenic has an expedition cruise from Reykjavik to Dublin in August 2026 that includes calls into Torshavn and Tvoroyri in the Faroe Islands, Lerwick in the Shetland Island, Stromness in the Orkney Islands and Fort William in Scotland. Passengers will visit national parks, take rib-rides and see spectacular bird cliffs. From Portrush in Northern Ireland, an early morning tour visits the Giant’s Causeway before it opens to the general public. The cruise departs August 17 2026; prices from £6,680pp for 11 nights excluding flights.
✔ Ponant has a cruise from Glasgow to Reykjavik in 2026 that includes wildlife spotting in Lock Linnhe in Scotland, Stornoway in the Hebrides and Suduroy in the Faroe Islands. There’ll be a chance to spot seabirds on Streymoy Island, also in the Faroes, while a boat cruise around Heimaey reveals one of the world’s largest accessible puffin colonies. The cruise departs May 15 2026; prices from £8,680pp for 11 days excluding flights.
UK. “Hidden gems like Iraklia and nearby Koufonissia, Amorgos and the one-family island of Levitha are truly authentic and unique.”
Outside Greece, Variety is in search of history, culture and little-known places on one-week voyages to Croatia, Montenegro and Albania.
Departing from Dubrovnik, the cruises call into Korcula and Vis in Croatia, where there are tours to wineries and underground military tunnels, and Bar in Montenegro, where passengers can visit the abandoned old town of Stari Bar with its ruined walls and dilapidated houses.
In Vlores, Albania, guided walks explore the historic old town; from Durres, tours visit the Albanian capital of Tirana, where museums and monuments remember the country’s struggle for independence from the Ottoman Empire in the 1400s and the oppression of Stalin-loving communist dictator Enver Hoxha.
The cruises are on the 34-passenger Callisto and depart on August 1 and September 5 this year, and in 2026 on May 22 and 29, June 26, July 31 and September 4.
Main picture: Variety's yacht Panorama in Patmos. Insert: Serifos is one of the lesser-known islands visited on the line's Unexplored Greece cruises. Credit: Variety Cruises.
TAKE FIVE: Cartagena
GO ROMAN
Almost as amazing as the ancient theatre itself is the fact it wasn’t discovered until 1988 during building works in the city –especially as it is huge, holding around 6,000 spectators. Said to be more than 2,000 years old, it is now Cartagena’s top attraction.
WAR HISTORY
With everything from Roman theatres and Moorish palaces to sandy beaches - and a warm welcome promised for cruisers - it’s no wonder Cartagena is becoming one of Spain’s favourite cruise calls. Here are five things to do while in town for the day.
The dark days of the Spanish Civil War (1936-39) are remembered at the Refugio Museo de la Guerra Civil, in a former air raid shelter in the centre of the city. As an important naval base, Cartagena was a strategic target for bombers during the war. Thirty-minute guided tours tell the story.
NOT-SO-MEDIEVAL CASTLE
The Bateria de Castillitos, on a hill overlooking the sea about 30 minutes from the city, might look like a medieval castle but in fact the fortification was built in the 1930s to improve Cartagena’s defences. Take an hour to walk around the battlements and enjoy the views.
TUCK INTO TAPAS
You’re in Spain so what else can you have for lunch than tapas. Order a selection of small dishes - anything from local jamon and garlicky mushrooms to Spanish omelettes, olives and squid - and tuck in.
HISTORIC CENTRE
The city is easy to explore alone. Just don’t miss the Calle Mayor, a pedestrian street lined with high-end shops and cafés, and paved with blue marble tiles, and Castillo de la Concepcion, which over the centuries has been a Roman temple, Moorish fortress and medieval castle.
Who goes there
Marella Cruises
Norwegian Cruise Line
Oceania Cruises
P&O Cruises
Ponant
Princess Cruises
Regent Seven Seas Cruises
Royal Caribbean International
Saga
Seabourn
SeaDream Yacht Club
Silversea
Windstar Cruises
RIVER CRUISE special
Five nights in Cairo, a trip to the new Grand Egyptian Museum and a Nile cruise on the SS Sphinx are among highlights of Uniworld River Cruises' 50-night Rivers of the World cruise launched to celebrate the company’s 50th anniversary next year. Departing April 16 2026, the voyage kicks off in Belgium and Holland, and includes a seven-night mystery cruise before ticking off the Seine and Rhone in France.
Hey Magdalena AmaWaterways has made history with the launch of new river cruises on the Magdalena River in Columbia, South America. The seven-night voyages, between Cartagena and Barranquilla, are on the 60-passenger AmaMagdalena and include everything from birdwatching and street jazz to an exclusive mardi gras celebration.
Adventures after dark Dinner under the stars, impromptu dance parties and late-night tours await as Avalon Waterways launches a selection of new activities to keep the beat going on its river ships long after the sun has gone to bed. New After Dark tours visit pubs, clubs and cafés, there’s enhanced after-dinner lounge entertainment and, starting 2026, al-fresco Sky Grill Dinners on the sundeck.
Douro in demand
APT Travelmarvel has made its debut on the Douro in Northern Portugal on the new river ship Estrela. Launched in March, the vessel holds 120 passengers and is sailing seven-night cruises round-trip from Porto that include port tastings at a quinta (Portuguese winery) and a day trip to the Spanish city of Salamanca. A few departures are on sale under the five-star APT brand.
CroisiEurope heads to the Amazon
French river cruise line CroisiEurope is building a river ship to sail the Amazon in South America starting early 2027. As yet unnamed, the vessel will hold 32 passengers in all-suite accommodation and offer 12-day voyages round-trip from Manaus in Brazil that explore the Amazon River and its many tributaries.
WITH A DIFFERENCEDouro
The rain in Spain turned our Riviera cruise on the Douro into a magical mystery tour, says Jane Archer.
Who knew a cruise on the Douro could be so educational? I’ve learned that Portugal and Britain have the longest alliance in force in the world (the Treaty of Windsor signed 1386), that at 35 metres the river’s Carrapatelo lock is the deepest in Europe and that the Brits ‘discovered’ port wine, albeit by accident, and bizarrely, thanks to our wars with the French.
Unable to import French wine due to an embargo, some enterprising Brits went in search of their favourite tipple in Portugal, found what they wanted in the Douro region but then had to get it to the UK without it spoiling during the sea journey. Their solution was to fortify it with brandy.
As they transported the wine from the vineyards to the sea by way of the Douro
River and the city of Porto it got the name port wine and having discovered it, the Brits went on to produce it in copious amounts. To this day most port wines have British names. Think Taylor, Croft and Graham.
Unfortunately I’ve also learned that despite having locks to regulate the river’s flow, Douro cruises can be seriously disrupted by high water. It’s the fault of the rain in Spain apparently. If there’s too much, the Spanish open the sluice gates on their bit of the Douro and flood the Portuguese side.
The high water means river ships can’t get under the bridges that connect either side of the locks – that’s if the captains dare to get into the locks at all while the river is flowing so fast.
The scenery is the star on a river cruise on the Douro. Below: The open-plan lounge looks down into the restaurant.
Magical mystery tour
Our captain does dare, but we’ve had to go so slow that by the time we get to Regua, our first stop, we’ve missed our tour to Quinta da Pacheca for dinner (a quinta is a Portuguese winery) and the cruise has gone from a carefully planned seven nights on the river to a magical mystery tour.
All of which explains why our river ship, Porto Mirante, is stuck at Folgosa, a little village between Regua and Pinhão, instead of being at Barca d’Alva, on the border with Spain, and instead of a daytrip to Salamanca, Riviera - the company we’re sailing with – has hastily organised an overnight trip to the Spanish city.
Most of our fellow passengers have gone but about 20 of us have stayed behind, preferring a visit to Regua’s excellent wine museum and time to relax on board to the gruelling four-hour drive to Salamanca (it would have been two hours from Barca d’Alva) and the same coming back next day.
As there’s so few of us on board, dinner that night is in the Sky Lounge, a two-storey room at the back of the ship. On deck three it’s a lovely place to sit and watch the world go by, on the sundeck it’s an alternative restaurant, open for lunch and dinner on days the roof doesn’t have to be lowered so the vessel can get under low bridges. For lunch, just walk up; for dinner, bookings are required. For both, the service and food was really good.
Next morning, the captain gets the OK to move so we head a little way up river, to Pinhão, a small town where the main (dare I say only) attraction is a railway station. There is a story attached – namely that in the 1930s it was adorned with blue-and-white tiles depicting scenes from Portugal’s past for a contest to find the most beautiful station. It didn’t win.
That afternoon, when the Salamanca folk are back, there’s an included tour to the Mateus Palace, which is really only famous because its picture is on Mateus Rosé wine bottles, but we take the train to Regua and back instead (see box).
It’s taken so long to get to Pinhão, that next day it’s time for Porto Mirante to turn around and head back to Porto. But not before one last stop in Regua, from where we’re going to Quinta da Avessada for lunch.
Thank goodness we’re not missing this because it’s a lovely quinta high in the hills above the Douro that’s been owned by the same family for 150 years. Its location puts it outside the demarcation area for growing port wine, so instead they produce Muscadel – a delicious liqueur-like wine made from Muscadet grapes.
But the magical mystery tour is not over as the next day a question mark looms over whether we can actually sail back to Porto. We’re supposed to leave at 7am; instead we leave at 1pm – too late to reach Porto in the light (ships are not allowed to sail after dark) - and end up in a small village and go no further as next morning we disembark.
Where were we? I’ve no idea but isn’t that what a mystery is all about?
Introducing Porto Mirante
We were supposed to be on Riviera Travel’s new Douro river ship Riviera Rose, but its delivery is delayed so Riviera moved us to Porto Mirante instead.
We’re not complaining. Porto Mirante launched in 2024, holds just 120 passengers and is a beautifully-designed vessel, with an open plan lounge that looks down into the dining room, and the Sky Lounge restaurant at the back that folds down to go under low bridges.
There’s a large heated pool on the sun deck – very popular in summer, when temperatures soar – and a small gym.
Riviera Rose is a sister ship to Porto Mirante (the latter is now sailing seven-night Douro Discoverer voyages for Viva Cruises). Riviera prices start from £2,199pp for a Highlights of the Douro Valley & Salamanca cruise including flights, transfers, excursions, wine or beer with lunch, an open bar from 6pm and Wi-Fi.
Taking the train along the Douro
The Douro train is said to be one of the most scenic railway journeys in Europe. It goes from Porto to Pocinho – a distance of 160km that takes about three and a half hours. It’s not particularly interesting for the first hour but once it starts to run alongside the Douro, it’s time to get cameras at the ready.
The winding tracks take the train through tunnels, over bridges and though pretty little villages. The rolling stock is ancient, with doors that fold open and windows that you can lean out of (not always recommended, but at least you can get pictures without glass in the way).
Our train ride from Pinhão to Regua took just 25 minutes – and another 25 minutes getting back - but it’s charming and back on board we’re the envy of the ship. “We’d have loved to do that,” everyone tells us. River cruise lines should take note.
Sailing through the narrows on the Douro. Right: The lower deck of the Sky Lounge is a perfect place to sit and enjoy the views.
RAISINGthe bar
Jane Archer tours APT’s Solara, a new river ship with a restaurant and bar that literally rises up from one deck to another.
Solara is the first of two new river ships APT is launching on the Rhine and Danube this year. Credit: APT & Travelmarvel.
Below: The Conversation Pit on the sundeck is a great place to hang out by day and after dark.
Unique is one of the most misused words in the English language. When talking about Solara, one of two river ships APT is launching this year (the other is called Ostara), it is spot on. It’s in the clean lines, the seamless blend of luxury and comfort and the expansive but wonderfully uncluttered atrium.
Oh and did I mention the restaurant that lifts from one deck to another? Literally. When the ship is sailing the Gruner Bar and Restaurant is accessed from the back of deck three. Once in port, the crew press a button and the whole thing lifts hydraulically – the seating, galley, bar and all – up to the sundeck, I didn’t actually realise what had happened until I went back down to deck three and saw the gaping hole where the restaurant used to be. Talk about an incredible feat of engineering, with the added wow that diners can be inside the restaurant as it lifts up.
Once in situ at the top of the ship, the venue doubles as a walk-up bar where passengers catching a few rays or enjoying the views from the sundeck can refuel with their favourite tipple (included in the price with APT).
Solara, the first wholly APT-branded river ship in Europe, entered service at the end of April and holds 154 passengers in all-suite accommodation. If space matters there are eight Owner’s Suites with outside balconies and perks including free laundry and a complimentary spa treatment.
Most rooms are Balcony Suites, which don’t actually have a balcony; instead they have floor-to-ceiling walls of glass that open from the top downwards. On deck one, suites have fixed windows and teaklike paneling to create the look and feel of a ship’s cabin of old.
Subtle touches
“We wanted to acknowledge that it is a boat, not a hotel, so we have added subtle - and sometimes not-so-subtle - nautical touches,” said Paul Hecker, co-founder of Melbourne-based design company Hecker Guthrie, which created the ship’s look and feel.
Framed wood paneling in the cabins and public areas imitate what you’d find on a sailing ship and there are rope artworks, timber-slatted chairs and bedside lights that are a contemporary take on ships’ lanterns.
Instead of a main dining room that seats everyone, Solara has six places to eat, plus the option of room service. The Gruner Bar is one, Bistro Saison, with its charming French style, another. The Owner’s Cellar is a wine-themed Chef’s Table restaurant that serves a six-course menu featuring local food and wine for 16 people at a time. All passengers are guaranteed one visit; those in an Owner’s Suite can dine there twice.
Annie’s Table, at the front of the lounge (dubbed the Salon), is more casual, with tables or comfy sofas and a mix of buffet and served dishes. Passengers can also eat in the Salon and, weather permitting, there’ll be BBQs on the Daystar Deck, which is APT speak for the sundeck.
There’s also a small pool up there, along with what APT calls a ‘conversation pit’ where guests can gather over a wine or cocktail to put the world to rights or just catch up about their day. At night the zone is lit by solar-powered lanterns (there is electric power for those days the sun doesn’t shine).
Solara and Ostara are sailing APT’s 15day Magnificent Europe cruises between Amsterdam and Budapest that take in the Rhine, Main, Main-Danube Canal and Danube rivers. Prices start from £4,795pp, including flights, transfers, drinks, all dining, tips, excursions, including exclusive signature experiences, and Wi-Fi.
Jane Archer
Credit:
From top to bottom: The lunchtime buffet in Annie's Table; the Owner's Cellar; rope artworks remind cruisers it's a ship; Bistro Saison; the Salon.
