Stowaway - May 2025 by VSense Ltd

A recent poll by Cruise.co.uk shows that coolcations are becoming the in-thing for cruisers. Should we be surprised?

Given all the wonderful ‘cool’ places you can visit on a cruise I think not.This month’s issue looks at favourite places to visit in Norway, reports back on an Alaska cruise and takes a stroll in the footsteps of the explorers who put Antarctica and the Northwest Passage on the map. We also discover the joys of river cruising over winter. Elsewhere, as Europe's hotspots struggle with overtourism, we suggest other destinations that you should consider. Budapest certainly looks worthy of consideration as part of a rewarding river cruise. Enjoy! For more information call our sales team

The

Winter, spring, summer or fall, Norway offers a cruise for all seasons

An Alaska cruise is an adventure like no other, says Jane Archer

If shuffling through the crowds in Europe’s favourite cities doesn’t appeal, there are plenty of great alternatives

Jane Archer welcomes in the New Year with TUI River Cruises

Where else can you indulge in good food and wine if not on a Rhône cruise?

Cruisers owe thanks to the intrepid explorers who made today’s trips to the frozen north and south possible

Front cover: Dawes Glacier, Alaska. Courtesy of Seabourn

X marks the spot

Celebrity Cruises is expanding into the river cruise market in 2027. The line has signed an initial order for 10 vessels that the line promises will ‘bring the quality and sophistication of our Edge Series ocean ships to the most iconic rivers, starting with Europe’. The river cruises go on sale this year.

Norway hits the hot spot

Seabourn has named Svolvær in Norway’s beautiful Lofoten Islands one of its hot destinations for 2025. The company’s Seabourn Sojourn will be visiting five times this year on cruises from Dover; once there passengers can visit fishing villages, Viking museums and art galleries, or take off on a RIB (rigid inflatable boat) ride around the coast. Alaska's Glacier Bay, celebrating 100 years since becoming a national monument, and Ho Chi Minh City 50 years on from the fall of Saigon are among other hot spots on the list.

Crystal adds calls into Thessaloniki

Crystal is visiting the Greek port of Thessaloniki for the first time this summer on three calls, the last of which, on July 10, is a turnaround. It’s one of several lines making its debut at the port, where the 2025 cruise season got underway in February with the arrival of Celebrity Infinity. The Celebrity Cruises’ ship will be a regular visitor this summer, with 19 calls scheduled for the rest of the year, of which six are overnight stays. Celestyal is another regular, visiting weekly on Idyllic Greece cruises from Piraeus between May and November.

FALLING for the FJORDS

Winter, spring, summer or fall, Norway offers a cruise for all seasons

The Arctic encompasses many places but the Norwegian fjords is the firm favourite.

FAVOURITE PORTS IN NORWAY

Bergen

Most visitors to Bergen, known as the gateway to the fjords, make a beeline for the funicular that goes from the centre of town to the top of Mt Fløyen to go hiking or just take in the sweeping views. The aquarium is also popular.

Stavanger

The gateway to the beautiful Lysefjord, Stavanger has everything from street art to Viking history. Small boat cruises take passengers through the Lysefjord to see the Pulpit Rock, a vast rock plateau with sheer sides that towers more than 600 metres above the narrow waterway below.

Ålesund

Dubbed the most beautiful town in Norway, Ålesund was destroyed by fire in 1904 and rebuilt in Art Nouveau style. Round off a tour with a hike to Fjellstua – there are 418 steps to the top - for the best views in town.

Olden

The small village of Olden is the gateway to the Briksdal Glacier, one icy arm of the Jostedalsbreen, the largest glacier in Europe. It’s a steep climb up to see it but well worth the effort.

Flåm

The small village of Flåm is a short walk from the pier. More importantly, so is the Flåm Railway, one of the most scenic train rides in the world, winding steeply up from the fjord to the top of the mountain.

Narvik

On a peninsula where three fjords meet, Narvik packs in history and fun, with World War Two museums and activities including dog-sledding and hiking. Take a cable car up Narvikfjellet for stunning views over the town and fjords.

Tromsø

Famed for its striking iceberg-shaped Arctic Cathedral, Tromsø is home to the world’s most northerly aquarium and brewery. A Polar Museum is dedicated to Norwegian explorers Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen.

Alta

Inside the Arctic Circle, Alta is a top spot to see the Northern Lights in winter. Visit the stunning Northern Lights cathedral, go dogsledding and drink a toast in the bar of the world’s northern-most ice hotel (no ice-cubes needed!).

In the world of cruising, Northern Europe is used to denote Iceland, Greenland and Spitsbergen, the latter mostly if talking about expedition ships, but for most cruisers it means Norway, that long, thin country bisected by the Arctic Circle where scenery is the star and outdoor activities such as walking, fishing and whalewatching are the big attraction.

With a coastline that stretches 1,300 nautical miles, the country was made for cruising. Ships can dodge in and out of the deep fjords, taking passengers beneath majestic snow-capped mountains and up close to glaciers and waterfalls cascading from dizzying heights.

No wonder the fjords topped a recent poll by Cruise.co.uk that asked customers if they would consider a ‘coolcation’ holiday, and if so, where.

How cool their cruise would be depends on the time of year and where they are.

In the fjords, average temperatures in spring and summer range from 4C to 16C but could get up to 25C. In autumn and

winter, the temperature can be anything from 4C to freezing, while further north the thermometer will probably be well below zero.

Summer sailings

Spring and summer are favourite times to cruise in Norway. The days are long, the weather is warmer, the scenery is stunning as the trees and flowers come into bloom and there are all sorts of adventure activities to enjoy such as kayak through fjords, hiking to glaciers and cycling around the valleys. Passengers can also visit husky farms and go sightseeing on scenic roads that are impassable in winter.

There are plenty of cruises for passengers to choose from at this time of year. Celebrity Cruises and Holland America Line have sailings from Rotterdam and Amsterdam, while Silversea has one-week voyages between Copenhagen and Bergen on Silver Dawn between June and August. However, most sailings are from the UK with the likes of P&O Cruises, Fred Olsen

Cruise Lines, Ambassador Cruise Lines, Saga and Cunard. The latter has two sailings, one in April on Queen Mary 2, the other in May on Queen Anne, accompanied by Michelinstarred chef Michel Roux, who will be hosting exclusive Le Gavroche residencies, live cooking demonstrations and talks about his career.

Seabourn has 14-night cruises from Dover to the fjords departing June 14 and July 12, as well as longer voyages that pair the fjords with the UK and Iceland. Celebrity, Oceania Cruises, Royal Caribbean International, Norwegian Cruise Line and Princess Cruises all sail to the fjords from Southampton.

One-week cruises include two days at sea and calls into favourite ports such as Bergen, Stavanger, Olden and Ålesund. On a two-week cruise, Tromsø, Trondheim and the North Cape, the northern-most point on Europe’s mainland, join the list of likely calls. Longer trips also often pair the fjords with Iceland.

Winter sailings

Come winter, Norway becomes a different

world. The scenery is no less stunning, but this time it is blanketed by snow, daylight hours get shorter, the crowds have gone and passengers can go husky or reindeer sledding, visit ice hotels, try snowshoeing and with luck will see the colourful aurora borealis, or Northern Lights, flash across the night sky.

Between October and March, Norwegian fjords cruises morph into sailings into the Arctic Circle in search of the Northern Lights. Fred Olsen has the biggest selection, with five cruises this year – two in March, the rest in October and November.

Ambassador and Cunard each have two cruises in search of the Northern Lights in 2025. Ambassador’s sailings, in March and October, are on Ambience from Tilbury. Cunard’s cruises are from Southampton in November on Queen Mary 2 and Queen Victoria. P&O ventures into the Arctic Circle on cruises in October and December.

Hurtigruten and Havila Voyages offer 12-night sailings from Bergen to Kirkenes and back year-round that call into 34 ports.

Nature’s own light show

The colourful Northern Lights, or aurora borealis, occur as a result of an interaction of the solar wind and the earth’s magnetic field at the North and South Poles (in the south they are called the aurora australis). Sightings are never guaranteed, but chances are pretty high this year as we’re in a period of the 11-year solar cycle known as the solar maximum. What is for sure is that a cruise is perfect for aurora spotting as there’s no light pollution at sea to spoil the show.

New regulations for 2026

There are plenty of cruises to the Norwegian fjords at the moment, but that will change as a result of new environmental regulations coming into effect in Norway on January 1 2026 aimed at reducing emissions and overcrowding. From 2032, all non-zero emission ships will be banned from entering the fjords so if clients want to go, now’s the time to get booking.

The stunning Arctic Cathedral in Tromsø.

Top: Hike to Fjellstua for fabulous views over Ålesund.

History, culture and plenty of sun

Variety Cruises has launched four new voyages that explore the Adriatic and Sicily

Variety Cruises is taking its brand of small ship sailing to the Adriatic this summer with a series of new voyages from Venice and Dubrovnik on the 34-passenger Callisto.

Two itineraries are on offer – a seven-night Venetian Horizons cruise round-trip from Venice that calls into Slovenia and Croatia, and a one-week Adriatic Jewels journey from Venice to Dubrovnik (or vice-versa) along the coast of Croatia.

Whichever clients choose they will get to sail in or out of Venice as Callisto is small enough to slip through the ban on vessels sailing the Giudecca Canal. The ship will dock at the San Basilio cruise terminal, from where it’s an easy walk to the Rialto Bridge and St Mark’s Square (but take a good map!).

The Venetian Horizons voyages start with two nights at San Basilio to give passengers a whole day and evening in Venice. Callisto sets sail on day three and calls into Kopor and Pula in Slovenia, Opatija and Pula in Croatia, and Ravenna in Italy before returning to Venice. Optional excursions each day include everything from truffle hunting to a trip to the Plitvice Lakes. There are also walking tours in Venice, Pula and Ravenna, where Dante is buried and stunning Byzantine mosaics coat the interior of the Basilica di San Vitale.

There are only two Venetian Horizons’ departures in 2025 (June 13 and September 19), ramping up to 21 between April and November 2026.

The Adriatic Jewels cruises operate between the end of April and September (13 departures) and call into Rovinj, Senj, Sibenik, Split and Korcula, all in Croatia, and Kotor in Montenegro. Optional tours go wine-tasting

and truffle-hunting, as well as to the Krka Waterfalls and Trogir.

Sicily bound

Variety has also launched two new oneweek cruises between Malta and Naples on the 72-passenger Variety Voyager that can be combined into a 14-night in-depth exploration of Sicily.

Sicilian Sunsets and Amalfi Delights starts in Valletta in Malta and visits Port Empedocle, Trapani and Palermo in Sicily, and the island of Lipari and Sorrento in Italy before ending in Naples.

La Dolce Vita starts in Naples and visits the islands of Capri and Lipari, Taormina, Catania and Syracuse in Sicily and Gozo Island in Malta, before ending in Valletta.

Cruise and stay

Seafarer Cruises (seafarercruises.co.uk), Variety’s UK gsa, has packaged the four itineraries into cruise-and-stay holidays that include fights, transfers and a two-night pre-cruise hotel stay with breakfast. Adriatic Jewels holidays book-end the cruise with hotel nights in both Venice and Dubrovnik. Cruise-only options are also available.

The 34-passenger Callisto (pictured right) is small enough to slip through the ban on ships sailing in and out of Venice

Callisto will be visiting Taormina in Sicily on new La Dolce Vita cruises from Naples to Valletta.

INTRODUCING OUR NEW AUTUMN-WINTER 2026 CRUISES

Our Journey Planners have been busy crafting an exciting new programme of cruises for September to December 2026, from autumn adventures to winter sun and festive fun.

A standout highlight is our festive fleet reunion in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria, combining winter warmth with unmissable celebrations. There’s also a tempting selection of Mediterranean fly-cruises taking in Corsica, the Adriatic, Greece, the French Riviera, the Amalfi Coast and more – shorter getaways designed to maximise your customers time in iconic destinations as well as lesser-known gems, allowing for more in-depth exploration.

Back by popular demand, ‘You Choose Your Cruise’ lets you and your fellow guests vote for each port as we sail, creating their own unique itinerary. Plus, there’s an indulgent 32-night Caribbean voyage, a Mystery Cruise planned in secret with the expert knowledge of our very own Captain Degerlund, a scenic French river sailing that takes advantage of Balmoral’s smaller size, allowing us to sail the Seine into Rouen, and itineraries timed to coincide with the Geminid Meteor Shower and Germany’s Christmas markets. Find out more fredolsencruises.com

In theBIG COUNTRY

An Alaska cruise is an adventure like no other. Just remember to pack some gloves, says Jane Archer

It’s midday in Alaska’s Glacier Bay and I’m watching the Margerie Glacier intently, waiting for that loud crack, like gunfire, that signals a large chunk of ice is about to come crashing into the sea.

I’m not alone. Hundreds of us here on Holland America Line’s Koningsdam are watching, waiting, as the captain holds the ship about half a mile from the glacier, then twirls it around to give those on the other side a view.

That’s my cue to race to my cabin, where I spend the next half-hour glacier-watching from my balcony. It’s brilliant. Not only a private perch and perfect viewing spot, but now and then I can head into my room to warm up a little.

I need to. The sun might be shining but it’s chilly outside. That’s not really surprising given just over there is a piece of ice that’s about a mile wide, some 250 feet above the water line, has another 100 feet below it and stretches goodness how far back to an icefield somewhere in the mountains. Down below us, small chunks of ice that have fallen off the glaciers float slowly past Koningsdam. Coats, fleeces, gloves and hats should all be top of the Alaska packing list.

Holland America is one of a few large cruise lines allowed to enter Glacier Bay, a vast national park that’s home to more than 1,000 glaciers, Dan tells me. He is one of a team of rangers who Koningsdam picked up early this morning as we entered the bay and are on board to tell us more about it as we sail slowly through en route to the Margerie Glacier while keeping a look out for any passing wildlife.

We score zero on the whale front, but spot several sea otters. There used to be millions of these cute little fellas in Alaska but they were hunted to extinction for their fur when the Russians owned this land (one of the reasons they sold Alaska to the US in 1867); the ones we’re seeing now were brought here from California and are thriving in their new surroundings.

Glacier watching turns out to be just one highlight of this one-week voyage from Vancouver that ticks off Alaska’s big three (Juneau, Skagway and Ketchikan). At each stop, various excursions take passengers zipwiring, kayaking and hiking, while others take to the skies on floatplanes, visit husky farms, go whale-watching, dog-sledding or panning for gold.

Koningsdam offers seven-night Inside Passage cruises from Vancouver to Alaska.

A colony of seals takes a break on a buoy.

captain held Koningsdam

A guided bike ride in Juneau to the mighty Mendenhall Glacier catches my eye. Fresh air, exercise and a glacier to boot. What could possibly go wrong? Only the fact I didn’t factor in the weather, it seems. Juneau day is wet, windy and the thermometer is struggling to get above 4C even though it is spring at home. And guess who forgot to bring gloves?

No matter. The guys running the tour get us togged up in waterproof coats, trousers and gloves, and we set out along roads and through forest (about 8.5 miles in all) to the glacier – a spectacular half-mile wide piece of ice that stretches 12 miles back to the Juneau icefield.

I give myself a metaphorical pat on the back for completing the ride and then undo all the good work by tucking into a pizza by the pool that evening. It’s wonderfully casual and a lovely place to eat, but Koningsdam’s speciality restaurants - Asian Tamarind, French Sel de Mer and Pinnacle Grill steakhouse – are terrific too. They do cost extra; for those on a budget the main restaurant and Lido buffet don’t disappoint.

There’s lots more to love about this ship, not least the Music Walk, where different venues have live bands playing pop, bluesy soul and rock each evening. They all draw packed audiences but the winner in my book is the Rock Room, where the band looked and sounded the part with their torn jeans and Fleetwood Mac, Rolling Stones and Deep Purple covers.

Unspoilt nature

Alaska, I quickly discover, is nothing like the Lower 48, as the locals call the rest of the US. The nature is unspoilt, the scenery is spectacular, the towns look like something out of the wild west and the history is pure gold – literally.

In 1896, shiny yellow nuggets worth millions of dollars in today’s currency were discovered in the Yukon and there followed one of the greatest gold rushes of the 19th century. Thousands of prospectors passed though Skagway trying to get to the gold fields, either on the near-vertical Chilcoot Trail or the narrow White Pass, and hundreds died along the way.

Me? I’m going the easy way – on the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad, which opened in Skagway in February 1899, barely two years after construction started. It was an extraordinary feat given they had to blast tunnels through rock and bridge over deep valleys. It is also a fantastic journey, chugging 2,915 feet up past thick forest and into deep snow. There are seats in the carriage but I’m too excited to sit and hop from left to right on a viewing platform at the back as I don’t want to miss a thing.

And so to Ketchikan, where I find myself taking part in an axe-throwing contest. I thought it was a joke when I signed up, but seems not. Suffice to say, it’s not as easy as the teams in the brilliant lumberjack show I’ve just watched make it look.

I skipped the show last time I was here,

Don't try this at home: The axe-throwing contest in Ketchikan.

fearing it would be very touristy, and to be honest it is, with two teams of timber sports athletes (yes, there really is such a thing) competing and lots of shouting as we cheered them on. But it’s also great fun, with plenty of jeopardy. Chopping a log while standing on it definitely goes down as a ‘don’t try this at home’ moment in my book.

A seven-day Alaska Inside Passage roundtrip cruise from Vancouver on Koningsdam calling into Juneau, Skagway and Ketchikan, and visiting Glacier Bay, costs from £649pp departing September 27 2025.

The

off the majestic Margerie Glacier for an hour so we all had a good view.

Going for gold

A modern-day gold rush is on the cards as several cruise lines make their debut in Alaska in 2026 while others return after many years away.

Newcomer MSC Cruises is offering seven-night cruises round-trip from Seattle on MSC Poesia between May and September that call into Ketchikan, Juneau and Sitka in Alaska, and spend an evening in Victoria, in British Columbia. Prices start from £714pp including tips.

Virgin Voyages, another making a first appearance, is also sailing from Seattle. Its one-week cruises, on Brilliant Lady, variously call into Ketchikan, Juneau and Sitka in Alaska, and Prince Rupert in Canada. A 12-night sailing departing June 11 adds the Alaskan ports of Skagway and Haines, and a full day in Victoria, BC.

Crystal will be visiting Alaska for the first time since it was acquired by Abercrombie and Kent.

IN BRIEF

Oceania Cruises’ 1,250-passenger Riviera is making its Alaska debut this summer. The vessel is sailing four cruises between Vancouver and Anchorage before relocating to Seattle for a series of round-trip voyages that include calls into Sitka, Wrangell and Haines.

The cruises, on Crystal Symphony, are mostly six or seven-night sailings between Seward (Anchorage) and Vancouver but there are also two longer voyages round-trip from Vancouver, one departing June 30, the other on August 8.

Azamara Cruises and Windstar Cruises, meanwhile, are returning to Alaska; the former after a seven-year break, the latter after a gap of three years.

Azamara is offering 10 and 11-night cruises between Whittier and Vancouver on Azamara Pursuit.

Windstar’s voyages are on the new 224-passenger ship Star Seeker, which joins the fleet in December 2025. The seven, 10 and 11-day cruises operate between Juneau or Seward and Vancouver and will be accompanied by expedition experts who will guide kayaking and Zodiac excursions, and give presentations on Alaska’s history, culture and wildlife during sailing time.

Holland America Line is ploughing $70 million into an upgrade at Denali Lodge over the next two years. Among changes, it is adding a new restaurant, bar and coffee shop to the main lodge, and 120 rooms in a separate guesthouse.

Cunard has confirmed that Queen Elizabeth will return to Alaska in 2026, sailing 23 round-trip cruises from Seattle. It follows the launch of the line’s first voyages from Seattle this year, also on Queen Elizabeth.

More capacity from ACL

American Cruise Lines (pictured top right) is doubling capacity in Alaska in 2025 as the 170-passenger American Constitution joins sister ship American Constellation sailing five different itineraries in the 49th state. Options include 16-day Inside Passage cruises from Seattle to Juneau that include a pre-cruise night at the Four Seasons Seattle (also available in reverse with a precruise night in Juneau) and two new Alaska National Parks cruises that pair a week on land visiting Denali and Kenai Fjords National Parks with nine nights sailing to Haines, Petersburg and Wrangell round-trip from Juneau.

Ultra-luxury cruise ship

Seabourn Quest will be cruising in Alaska this summer for the first time. The Seabourn ship is offering seven-night sailings between Vancouver and Juneau from May to September, with optional kayaking, hiking and Zodiac glacier cruising among activities.

More cruise lines will be heading to Alaska in 2026 in search of scenic glaciers and wildlife.

www.portseattle.org

MAKING THE SWITCH

If shuffling through the crowds in Europe’s favourite cities doesn’t appeal, there are plenty of great alternatives to put on your hit list

Instead of Barcelona …

It’s not hard to see why people love Barcelona. It’s a fabulous city with a lively vibe, great shopping and attractions that range from the Gothic quarter to Gaudi’s quirky architecture. But it’s also really busy, with millions of tourists visiting each year.

… try Cartagena

On Spain’s south-east coast, about 380 miles south of Barcelona, Cartagena has everything from a 2,000-year-old Roman theatre to high-end shopping and great tapas restaurants. Visitors can learn about the dark days of the Spanish Civil War (1936-39) at the Refugio Museo de la Guerra Civil or walk up to the Castillo de la Concepción, a castle dating back to the 14th century, to get a great view over the city. The cruise port is an easy stroll from the town centre.

Instead of Amsterdam …

With its miles of canals, centuries of history, world-class museums showcasing the works of the great Dutch masters and easy-going attitude to life, it’s no wonder Amsterdam is never far from the top of the ‘must-visit’ charts, but the city’s narrow streets were just not made for all the millions of cyclists, cars, people and trams vying for space.

… try Rotterdam

The second-largest city in the Netherlands, Rotterdam is young, dynamic and loves its quirky architecture. Don’t miss the tilted cube houses built as an experiment in urban living, the colourful indoor market hall and towering Euromast, 185 metres high, from which you can see Antwerp on a clear day. Hop on the Pannenkoejenboot to cruise the Maas River while tucking into as many pancakes as you can eat. Ships dock in the cruise port; walk over the Erasmus Bridge to get into town.

Instead of Malaga …

Millions of tourists flock to Malaga each year to enjoy its sun, sand and sea, charming old town and a museum showcasing the works of its favourite son, Pablo Picasso. Visitors can climb to the top of Castillo de Gibralfaro for great views over the city, stop off at Alcazaba, a medieval Moorish palace said to be the best-preserved in Spain, or take a day trip to Grenada.

… try Gibraltar

At the southern-most tip of the Iberian Peninsula, Gibraltar is a piece of Britain in the sun. Most visitors make a beeline for the nature reserve at the top of the Rock to see the Barbary macaques that hang out there, peek inside spectacular St Michael’s Cave and explore the tunnels dug during the Great Siege in the 1700s and World War Two. There are also numerous walking trails around the reserve and dolphin-watching boat trips from the harbour. The cruise port is an easy walk from the town.

DESTINATION: rivers

On your marks, get set, safari

AmaWaterways has secured more capacity for its safari cruises on the Chobe River in Africa. The extra departures have been added in February, October and November 2026 but clients need to book fast as these holiday fly off the shelves. The four-night cruises are on the 28-passenger Zambezi Queen and packaged with land-based stays in various places including Cape Town and Victoria Falls.

In the deep mid-winter

Jane Archer welcomed in the New Year on a voyage along the Rhine with TUI River Cruises

What is it about holidays that makes you do things you’d never do at home? Like deciding to go on an open boat tour around Ghent in temperatures close to zero.

It was a bit daft but proved a fun introduction to the Belgian city, which ticks all the right boxes. There are cobbled streets, medieval looks, an endless supply of churches and restaurants, and trams that glide silently along what the unwitting assume are pedestrian areas.

There’s also an impressive castle built, unusually, in the centre of town because the bloke in charge, Philip of Alsace, wanted to show the locals who was boss. A fun audio guide told of torture, witchcraft, adultery and crusaders, and even sprinkled in a bit of history about the castle now and then.

Traditionally river cruise lines stopped sailing after Christmas and restarted at the end of March as the first buds of spring appeared but a few are breaking with tradition and operating in the depths of winter as well.

TUI River Cruises, the company we were sailing with, isn’t one of them, but given it was January and we were on TUI Isla’s last voyage of the 2024 season - a one-week New Year cruise from Frankfurt to Amsterdam – we got a good taste of what winter river cruising is all about.

It’s very different to the summer. For one thing – rather obviously – it is cold so you

need to wrap up; for another the days were shorter, which gave the cruise a festive feel long after the new year fireworks fell silent.

Best of all, the crowds had gone. There were no queues for the Ghent boat trip, no shuffling around Amsterdam’s narrow cobbled streets behind tour groups being herded from one sight to another, no Instagrammers posing in front of Antwerp’s beautiful cathedral.

There were also no problems getting tables in restaurants – not even on New Year’s Eve in Cologne, where TUI Isla was staying late to welcome in 2025.

Dinner ashore over, we headed back to the ship to wait for the fireworks to start. We didn’t wait long. By 10pm, the river bank was packed with people and rockets were going off all around us; as midnight struck both banks of the river exploded in a riot of colour and noise. They were still exploding at 12.30am as the crew loosed the ropes and TUI Isla quietly slipped away.

A crazy and amazing evening none of us will ever forget.

A seven-night New Year Sail Away cruise from Düsseldorf to Amsterdam on TUI Isla departing December 30 and visiting Koblenz, Rudesheim, Cologne, Arnhem and Rotterdam costs from £1,280pp including flights, tips, drinks with meals and Wi-Fi.

LIFE ON BOARD

Like all TUI River Cruises’ vessels, TUI Isla is reserved for adults only and has a wonderfully easy-going style and fun vibe that has made the company a hit with the Brits since it launched in August 2021. The all-inclusive prices are a big attraction. Beer, wine and soft drinks with lunch and dinner are included (an upgrade to unlimited drinks costs £22pp per day), as are tips, flights, transfers and Wi-Fi.

The vessel has two places to eat –Verdastro and the more casual bistro –and a trio of singers who stage concerts and host lively quizzes (fingers on the button; no time to hesitate) each evening. If that doesn’t appeal, there’s a small quiet lounge towards the back of the vessel with a (fake) fire and bar.

Like all TUI River Cruises' vessels, TUI Isla is reserved for adults only. Below: Boat trips go past the impressive Ghent castle; Antwerp's market square.

Day out in…

Budapest

AUSTRIA

BUDAPEST HUNGARY

Where is it?

Budapest came on the scene in 1873, when hilly Buda, flat Pest and Óbuda (Old Buda) were united as one city with a river – the Danube - running through it. River ships dock in the centre of town so passengers can step ashore and into the heart of the action. For those who don’t fancy exploring on foot there are buses, trams and a metro. Single tickets cost about 92p; a 24hour travelcard costs around £5. Lots of itineraries include overnights in the city.

GO WITH*

Amadeus River Cruises

AmaWaterways

APT

APT Travelmarvel

A-Rosa Cruises

Avalon Waterways

CroisiEurope

Emerald Cruises

Riverside Luxury Cruises

Riviera Travel

Scenic

Tauck

TUI River Cruises

Uniworld Boutique River Cruises

Viva Cruises

* CLIA cruise lines on sale in the UK only

Spend the morning

City tours drive down Andrássy Avenue (Budapest’s answer to the Champs Elysée) and have photo stops at Heroes Square, laid out in 1896 to mark Hungary’s 1,000th anniversary, and medieval-looking Fisherman’s Bastion for views of the river below. Back in Buda, visit the Central Market Hall, where stalls are packed with everything from paprika and pastries to Pálinka (a fruit-based spirit).

Stay for lunch

Liszt Ferenc Square, off Andrássy Avenue, is a good spot to refuel as there are multiple restaurants serving local dishes (Hungarian goulash of course) and international cuisine. Head to Karavan, a street-food market in Kazinczy Street, to try pizza-like lángos and ‘chimneys’ (spirals of dough cooked over coals and rolled in sugar).

Go back for

Jewish history tours visit the poignant Shoes by the Danube monument in memory of hundreds of Jews murdered there in 1944 and 1945, and the Dohány Street Synagogue and Raul Wallenberg Holocaust Memorial Park. See inside Budapest’s iconic Parliament Building on a 45-minute guided tour that showcases the Hall of the Dome and crown of Saint Stephen, the first king of Hungary.

Don't miss

Do as the locals and spend a few hours in the historic Gellert Spa. The building is beautiful, there are 10 pools of varying temperatures (cool, warm and seriously hot) to linger in as well as a sauna and an outdoor swimming pool.

Get active

Explore the city on a guided Segway or e-bike tour, or strap on the walking shoes and hike to the Liberty statue on Gellert Hill. The Soviet Union erected it in 1947 to mark its liberation of Hungary from the Nazis –ironically just two years before the Soviets trapped Hungary behind the Iron Curtain.

Take the kids

Hop on the River Ride – a bus built on a boat that takes in some Buda highlights including Andrássy Avenue and Heroes Square before a scary splash into the Danube and cruise past the Parliament Building and Royal Palace. There’s audio commentary and choice of either a 50-minute or 90-minute long tour.

Red red wine

Where else can you indulge in good food and wine if not on a Rhône cruise, asks Jane Archer

There are two things to know about the French city of Avignon. One is that the famous Pont d’Avignon we all learned about in school is really called Pont Saint-Bénézet and is but a shadow of its medieval self, most having been swept away in floods so many times the locals gave up rebuilding it.

The other is that the popes lived here 700 or so years ago after fleeing unrest in Italy. They built themselves a spectacular Gothic palace right in the town – a peek inside is one of the highlights of any visit to Avignon - and stayed for some 67 years.

There is a third thing to know. The city is also the start or end point for Riverside Luxury Cruises’ voyages on the Rhône, France’s prettiest (with apologies to the Seine) river.

The river cruise line has various itineraries on the Rhône but I’m here for a five-night short-break heading north to Lyon that promises plenty of food, wine and chocolate. Well it is France after all.

From Avignon we sail to Chateauneuf du Pape, which literally translates to ‘new castle of the pope’. Apparently Pope John XXII was partial to a good red so he built himself a summer residence in what was even back then a prime wine-growing area.

For most people these days the name equates to some of France’s finest wines so what other excursion could Riverside possible offer other than a cellar tour and tasting.

We’re sailing on Riverside Ravel, one of the river ships that Riverside snapped up when the former Crystal Cruises collapsed (not to be confused with the new Crystal, which only operates ocean-going ships).

The vessel holds 106 passengers, all of whom get a suite with a drop-down panoramic window and a butler. There’s a conservatory-like lounge, an inside pool, gym and massage room, a pop-up bar on the sun deck and various places to eat, including the exclusive Vintage Room, which seats just 10 people at a time and costs an extra €320pp.

From Chateauneuf du Pape, we continue north to Viviers, a sleepy town with barely 3,000 inhabitants and the smallest working

cathedral in France. I join a walking tour that takes us through alleyways and along cobbled streets and ends with a lesson in Pétanque, France’s answer to bowls.

Next morning we wake in Tournon, a town totally eclipsed by its neighbour across the river, Tain l’Hermitage. It’s another name synonymous with wine – in fact some of the world’s finest (and most expensive) Grand Crus – but the town is also the home of the famous Valrhona chocolate. Yeah, you guessed it. We’re off on a wine and chocolate tasting tour.

Lyon is France’s second-largest city and known as the gastronomic capital of France. Riverside has factored in a day in the city before we disembark so there’s time to explore its lovely medieval old town and lunch in a Bouchon, a traditional local restaurant that serves hearty Lyonnaise food such as sausages cooked with pistachios, creamy chicken and coq-au-vin. All accompanied with local wine of course. As I said, this is France, after all.

A five-night Rhône Sampler with Avignon & Lyon departing June 11 and calling into Chateauneuf du Pape, Viviers and Tournon/ Tain l’Hermitage costs from £2,258pp, including all meals (bar the Vintage Room), drinks, selected excursions, tips, Wi-Fi and transfers. Flights are extra.

Riverside Ravel offers a variety of cruises on the Rhône; below left: The Gothic Popes Palace is a highlight in Avignon.

F ROM PERFECT DE TAILS.

Experience world-class cuisine, personalised service and fascinating destinations – aboard the first six-star slow luxury cruises on Europe’s most beautiful rivers.

Viva

enjoy Viva

Cruises’ Viva Enjoy was christened in the German city of Dusseldorf in January

German river cruise line Viva Cruises is planning to open a dedicated UK office before the end of the year as it looks to increase international sales.

Speaking at the launch of new river ship

Viva Enjoy, chief executive officer Andrea Kruse said 50% of the company’s business comes from overseas markets, but mainly from the US, Australia and Scandinavia. Only around 4% comes from the UK.

Kruse admitted she likes having a mix of nationalities. “The Americans are very open; it creates a friendlier atmosphere in the lounge,” she explained.

Viva Enjoy is the company’s eighth ship and third new-build. It holds 190 passengers and is operating everything from four-night taster cruises to 14-night voyages on the Rhine and Danube this year.

Here are six things to love about Viva Enjoy:

It has three restaurants

Passengers can dine in the main restaurant, aft bistro or Moments, a full-size Italian eatery that serves pizza and pasta at lunchtime and everything from antipasti to risotto and veal at dinner.

It has a split level lounge

Stairs at the forward end of the lounge lead down to the bar, which in turn has stairs down

to the main restaurant. The design gives the main lounge a more open feel and cleverly creates an intimate bar area.

Cabins are spacious

The vessel has 195 cabins – 16 on the lower deck with a fixed window, the rest, including eight suites, with French balconies (floorto-ceiling glass doors that open to a rail). Suites and cabins measure 24 square metres and 15 square metres respectively. Spacious bathrooms have glass-enclosed showers.

So much is included

Prices include all meals and drinks, plus tips and Wi-Fi, so passengers do not have to worry about the budget. Excursions are extra, but optional.

There are no language problems

Menus are in English and German and the lovely staff all speak good English so Brits who never got beyond school-boy German have nothing to worry about.

Keeping fit is easy

The sauna on sister ship Viva Two has been replaced by a yoga and massage room. There’s also a small gym, a top-deck swimming pool and bikes on board that can be borrowed for free.

Viva Enjoy is Viva Cruises' eighth ship and third new build.

Above: Viva Enjoy has three restaurants, including Moments, an Italian eatery. Below: The lobby on Viva Enjoy.

DESTINATION: expedition

Suite life at the South Pole

The 168-passenger World Voyager has been chartered by Quark Expeditions for three Antarctica seasons starting November 2026.

The all-suite, all-balcony vessel will be sailing a variety of cruises in the Southern Ocean including 11-day voyages to the Antarctica Peninsula and Antarctica flycruises that avoid sailing over the Drake Passage.

A family affair

Cruise Destinations caught up with Albatros Expeditions

CEO Jakob Lunøe to learn more about this exciting expedition cruise line new to UK cruisers

Albatros Expeditions is the expedition cruise arm of Albatros Travel Group, a family-run business launched in Denmark in 1986. It was started by Søren Rasmussen, who remains the chairman of the company, which has its headquarters in Copenhagen. It entered the expedition cruise sector in 1996 and launched the Albatros Expeditions brand in 2019.

How many ships does Albatros have?

We have two 'almost' sister ships, Ocean Albatros and Ocean Victory. Both sail in Antarctica in winter. In summer, Ocean Albatros goes to the Arctic, sailing in Greenland and also a bit of Iceland, Svalbard and Scotland, but Ocean Victory is chartered out. We could fill a third ship in Antarctica but people are not so interested in the Arctic.

What makes Albatros Expeditions different?

Our guests don’t come for Champagne, caviar and parties, but to get off the ships and explore nature. Being a Nordic company, it’s more casual on board than other lines. There are lectures and talks but also fun activities with the expedition team and crew. Making dumplings with the chef is very popular and of course we offer the polar plunge.

Which are your main source markets?

As a rough split we get one third each from Asia, the US and the UK and Europe. Within Europe, Germany and the UK are our biggest markets. The language on board is English but we will have translators on board if necessary, for instance for groups of Chinese.

QUICK FIRE: JAKOB LUNØE

√ Age 49

√ Home Copenhagen

√ Cruise hit list Greenland this summer and I’d love Svalbard if I have time

Who is a typical client?

They tend to be aged 50 plus and well travelled. We also get some families and multi-generational gatherings. We have a minimum age of 10 and 12 respectively for cruises to the Arctic and Antarctica.

What do prices include?

Wine, beer and soft drinks with dinner, and one night in the speciality restaurant are included. Drinks the rest of the time are chargeable. There are extra charges for kayaking, photography courses and camping and snowshoeing in Antarctica. Cruises are priced in US$ but we can take sterling.

√ Favourite country Italy

√ Proudest achievement

Climbing Mt Kilimanjaro with my 17-year-old daughter

Ocean Victory at Brown Station, Antarctica. Credit: Werner Kruse.

In the footsteps of the explorers

Cruisers owe thanks to the intrepid explorers who made today’s trips to the frozen north and south possible

Ask any client why they are booking a cruise to the Arctic or Antarctica and for sure it will be to see icebergs, polar bears and penguins. But they should spare a thought also for the courageous explorers of old whose daring put both places on the map and in whose footsteps they are following.

Most people have heard of Ernest Shackleton’s heroic if ill-fated expedition to the South Pole in 1914. His ship, Endurance, was trapped in ice and sank, but the crew made it in small boats to Elephant Island and survived there for four and a half months while Shackleton and five others made a perilous journey to South Georgia to get help. Incredibly none of the crew died.

But how many know of all the failed expeditions to find the Northwest Passage – a sea route between Greenland and Canada that explorers were convinced existed but remained elusive until the early 19th century?

The most notable – and notorious –expedition was led by British navigator Sir John Franklin in 1845. It was a total

disaster. He and all his crew perished in the attempt from starvation, hypothermia and scurvy, while reports of cannibalism that emerged from those who went in search of him scandalised Victorian Britain.

It wasn’t until 1906 that Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen became the first man to sail though the Northwest Passage – a voyage that took three years. He then went on to become the first man to reach the South Pole, beating British explorer Robert Scott, and in the process. Amundsen got there on December 14 1911, five weeks before Scott and made it back home; Scott and his team of four died on their way back to their base camp.

Customers who fancy following in their footsteps can pick from a huge selection of cruises that either sail across the Drake Passage or fly passengers in and out of the White Continent. All cruises are in the austral summer (November to March) when the ice has retreated and most are 10 days or so visiting the Antarctica peninsula. A few venture deeper south, entering the Weddell Sea to visit the Emperor penguin colony at Snow Hill; others do a Southern Ocean circuit that takes in South Georgia (where Shackleton is buried) and the Falkland Islands.

While numerous cruise lines visit Antarctica in season (see box), the Northwest Passage is more exclusive as only a handful of companies offer it, and then only do one or two crossings a year, invariably in August and September.

Seabourn, for instance, has two 23-day voyages through the passage on Seabourn Venture in 2025. One is from Reykjavik in

Iceland to Anchorage in Alaska departing August 6, the other in the opposite direction departing August 29. Both itineraries are then repeated in 2026.

Swan Hellenic has a voyage from Kangerlussuaq in Greenland that ventures into the passage as far as the Bellot Strait before turning and heading back to the starting point.

Whichever clients choose, they can expect to see plenty of ice and hear talks about Amundsen, Franklin and others who tried to find the sea route. If weather allows, they will likely land on Beechey Island, the final resting place of three of Franklin’s crew, spot polar bears and visit Gjoa Harbour, where Amundsen spent a year during his Northwest Passage crossing.

“The Northwest Passage is one of the most famous and historic routes in the Arctic, and we are excited to give travellers an opportunity to explore this region,” says Seabourn president Mark Tamis.