VRAI Magazine Fashion Week Chronicles: LFW AW17 Edition

March 2017

The Catwalks

Presentations Markus Lupfer Steven Tai Aspinal of London Roberta Einer and more...

Discover London Covent Garden The British Museum

Paul Costelloe Ryan LO David Koma Bora Aksu Emilio de la Morena TOGA

Fashion Week Chronicles:

LFW AW17 Edition

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Cover Photo: Markus Lupfer LFW AW17; Photography by Danny de la Cruz

Editor’s Letter. . . . . . . . . 5

David Koma . . . . . . . 180

Markus Lupfer. . . . . . . . 6

Haizhen Wang . . . . . 206

Ekaterina Kukhareva. . 16

The Designer Showrooms. . . . . . . . 218

Bora Aksu. . . . . . . . . . 24 Minki . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Paul Costelloe . . . . . . . 50 Steven Tai. . . . . . . . . . 72 Jasper Conran. . . . . . . 78 Roberta Einer . . . . . . . 92 TOGA. . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Discover London: Covent Garden . . . . . 124 Sadie Williams . . . . . 130 Preen Line . . . . . . . . 138 Globe-Trotter . . . . . . 148 Judy Wu. . . . . . . . . . 156 Marta Jakubowski. . . 162

Roberts | Wood. . . . . 224 Charli Cohen. . . . . . . 234 Paula Knorr. . . . . . . . 242 Emilio de la Morena. . 248 Richard Malone. . . . . 264 Chalayan . . . . . . . . . 274 Discover London: The British Museum . . 286 Aspinal of London. . . 300 Ryan LO . . . . . . . . . . 314 Faustine Steinmetz. . . 324 Kristian Aadnevik . . . 332 Barrus. . . . . . . . . . . . 348

Tata Naka. . . . . . . . . 170

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e’re so excited to be able to return to London for our third season of London Fashion Week (LFW).

And with the official move to The Store Studios, the venue was even better for all the catwalks, presentations and of course, the Designer Showrooms. As always, LFW never fails to impress. There’s always an amazing gamut of styles and looks coming down the runway at LFW and if you don’t see it on the runway, you’re bound to see something equally amazing in terms of street fashion. The vibe in London is just one-of-a-kind!

For this season, it was even more jammed pack as we viewed almost 30 collections over the span of five days.

It was a hectic, breathtaking and extremely memorable season with collections that impressed with each look that came down the catwalk.

A big thank you to all the designers that welcomed us to their shows and we look forward to next season. For now, enjoy LFW through our lenses and be sure to let us know what you think!

All my best,

Fashion Week Chronicles Volume 2 / Number 2 Publisher & Editor-in-Chief Danny de la Cruz Creative Director MJ Cadiz Contributing Style Editor Mabel Gago

Contact Us VRAI Magazine LLC P.O. Box 62 Techny, IL 60082 General Inquiries editor@vraimagazine.com Advertising Inquiries advertising@vraimagazine.com

VRAI Magazine is a digital lifestyle publication that delivers food, fashion & travel inspiration. With a team of creatives, storytellers, authors and talented contributors, we curate stories that represent the Style of True Living. © VRAI Magazine LLC. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed or transmitted in any form or by any means including photocopying, recording or other electronic methods without the

Danny de la Cruz Publisher & Editor-in-Chief

prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in digital and print reviews.

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arrived at the contemporary Blue Fin Building across from the Tate Modern and after taking elevators to the top floor and then up a flight of stairs, I emerged into a vast, open-air space with floor-to-ceiling windows -- sleek, stark and contemporary – the setting for the Markus Lupfer presentation. While the views were spectacular, the collection inside, “a celebration of individualism� was even more stunning and was the opposite of the cold, white presentation space. Full of detail and personality, with a hint of nature and adventure, I was impressed at first sight.

With menswear-inspired tailoring, a restrained color palette of deep blues, black and green, but with accents of salmon, the collection was softened with the femininity of a repeating floral pattern used in many pieces as well as three-dimensional floral appliques on oversized outerwear that you just wanted to touch. There was just the right amount of visual texture to the modern collection.

Markus Lupfer also added a beautiful element of belting several looks with an oversized chorded rope and added stylish sunglasses and bags to finish the vibe of the confident woman on the go.

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krainian-born designer Ekaterina Kukhareva’s Autumn/Winter 17 presentation at London Fashion Week was femininity in full bloom. A palette of soft blues, greens and pinks, all with a grey tonality on dresses modeled by young girls, teens and one radiant mother-to-be, welcomed attendees in a nature-styled setting with greenery and florals.

Overall, Ekaterina Kukhareva presented a picture-perfect moment – soft and flowing, floor-length dresses adorned with floral patterns, ruffles and sheer sleeves. It was as if ladies-in-waiting of a royal court had an afternoon to themselves in the fields and forest outside the castle walls.

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AW17 Copy by Danny de la Cruz / Photos provided by Bora Aksu

Photo by Danny de la Cruz

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o you remember your first time? We sure do and for us at VRAI Magazine, the Bora Aksu catwalk was the very first one the team had the pleasure of seeing during our first season at London Fashion Week back in September of 2015.

And so for this Autumn/Winter 17 season, it was wonderful to be back and see the quintessential feminine and fluid style of this unique designer.

For this collection, the inspiration came from the Princess Sophia Duleep Singh, a leader of the UK Suffragette movement in the early 20th century. This inspiration was clearly articulated in the predominant black and white theme and black hats tied with ribbon under the chin, but it was also fused beautifully with Bora Aksu’s signature delicate touches of pastel colors, and soft textural overlays that still conveyed lightness and movement.

Another reoccurring trend that I noticed was the usage of messaging as accents to further reinforce the theme of women’s empowerment, yet still reinforcing femininity.

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old, young and energized.

The Minki Autumn/Winter 17 digital presentation combined collection imagery flashing on monitors with live models presenting a bold, youthful and energized collection dominated with volume – billowing silhouettes for a young woman confident with her body and style. Oversized outerwear with exaggerated coat lapels, colorful yarn tassels, plaids and stripes and playful illustrations added additional interest to this year’s more relaxed collection.

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n Friday night at the Palm Court of the Waldorf Hotel, an intimate, but grand stage was set for the Autumn/Winter 17 collection of designer Paul Costelloe. This was my second season to see his collection and after seeing last September’s catwalk and collection, I was hooked and couldn’t wait to see more.

While tradition is firmly entrenched in this long-standing brand, there is a base essence of sophistication, class and genuine style.

The man did not disappoint.

For this collection, Paul Costelloe gave a nod to the Tudor period and it was all about the exaggerated sleeve for added drama and sweeping movement. With Italian quilted cottons and silk jacquards, Irish Tweed, wools and cashmeres, French Cottons and English latex blended skillfully together, the Paul Costelloe woman would stay elegantly stylish and warm for the cooler months.

The color palette was infused with deep autumnal hues of burgundy, muted greens and golds with pops of blues and crimson and ranged from pieces for the day, to elegant evenings out on the town. Two of the evening gowns pushed the level of sexiness with more sheer and revealing styling – a more daring and sexier side of the Paul Costelloe brand.

...it was all about th e exaggerated sleeve for added drama and sweeping mo vem ent.

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STAY AW17 AWAKE FOR THIS COLLECTION STAY AWAKE FOR THIS COLLECTION STAY AWAKE FOR THIS COLLECTION STAY AWAKE FOR THIS COLLECTION STAY AWAKE FOR THIS COLLECTION STAY AWAKE FOR THIS COLLECTION STAY AWAKE FOR THIS COLLECTION

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STAY AWAKE FOR THIS COLLECTION STAY AWAKE FOR THIS COLLECTION STAY AWAKE FOR THIS COLLECTION STAY AWAKE FOR THIS COLLECTION STAY AWAKE FOR THIS COLLECTION STAY AWAKE FOR THIS COLLECTION

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espite the hectic schedule and oftentimes, blurring of collections, I always recognize the style and clear vision of Canadian designer Steven Tai. Steven is always so friendly and welcoming to his guests -- always such a pleasure to see him each season.

For the Steven Tai style, there’s always a relaxed aura and ease in wearability around his collection and this season was no exception.

Staged with oversized, white sofas and lounge chairs, this year’s presentation was inspired by sleep and slumber. With a predominantly rich camel and white, monochromatic color palette, and additional pieces in soft, denim blue and PJ style graphic illustrations, there was an overwhelming calmness to the collection comprised of separates, jumpers and sweater tops.

Nothing loud or jarring from a distance, but up close, the senses awaken and take notice -- textures and little details brought a whole new dimension to sleepinginspired attire for outside the bedroom and everyday living. The oversized pockets on several pieces and the leggings-style footwear just added more to the calming, enveloping and comfortably stylish collection.

This was one presentation to definitely stay awake for, despite the inspiration.

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Copy by Danny de la Cruz / Photos provided by Jasper Conran

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or his Autumn/Winter 17 collection, designer Jasper Conran paraded clean, masculine and boxy silhouettes with color apropos for the season. The simple lines of the collection were a beautiful juxtaposition to the ornate and chandeliered Ballroom venue of Claridge’s in Mayfair.

From olives, chocolate browns, purple, magenta, mustard and maroon, down to “slouch” bag accessories in orange, the palette was a visual feast for the senses.

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n homage to 40s glamour, Art Deco architecture and the beauty of Lisbon, Portugal are just some of the inspiration for Roberta Einer’s Autumn/Winter 17 collection. Together, she created an artistic collection filled with rich color tones, all coming together and set in a modern-day, seaside resort in the Mediterranean.

Detailed floral and insect embellishments and pleated skirts add greater dimension to the collection and an elegance to an era long gone, but now not forgotten thanks to the skilled eye of this talented designer.

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had no idea what I was walking into for this catwalk, but as I entered the Guildhall Great Hall, I was immediately struck with the grandeur of this majestic and historical space from the medieval times. This was the venue for the TOGA Autumn/Winter 17 collection.

I couldn’t wait to see what came next as I sat in my spot in the center aisle and gazed upwards admiring the architecture and history.

Japanese designer Yasuko Furuta created a unique collection of pieces and looks for the season with what felt like a melding of French, British and Japanese influences. Comprised of Earthy tones, shades of browns, beiges and camels, coupled with rusts, mustards and blues, Yasuko Furuta presented an eclectic range of looks that spanned day to evening. With added touches of metallic ornamentations, dramatic cuts, holes and slits to add interest and the utilization of gloves to add more drama and sophistication to the mix, Yasuko Furuta was creating her own design history with the unveiling of her latest collection.

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Covent Garden

Copy and Photography by Danny de la Cruz

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ot far from my hotel is the popular area of Covent Garden. Known as a historic open-air market, it’s one of the popular tourist attractions in London. As I had just landed less than two hours earlier and was fortunate enough to be able to check into my hotel room and quickly freshen up, I forced myself to stay awake and explore for the day – or at least as long as my body could hold out after my transatlantic, overnight flight.

I had been to Covent Garden long ago during one of my first visits to London, so it was time to get reacquainted with this lively area. Filled with shopping and all types of eateries to satisfy any craving, street performers and tourists at every turn, this was exactly the place I needed to be to stay stimulated, entertained and awake.

As far as eateries, there are too many to mention, but I found my way to The Crusting Pipe on the lower ground floor of the market – I was actually drawn to the area by the sounds of musical performers in the courtyard area who kept me entertained while I ate.

After lunch, I explored all the nooks and crannies of the market and even wandered into St. Paul’s Church directly across the market. It’s hard to miss the grand structure that has been in existence since the early 1600s – it looks less like a church from the outside and more like a Roman structure with its massive stone columns. There’s a churchyard around the back and it’s the perfect place if you need a bit of quiet and sanctuary from the liveliness of Covent Garden.

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Discover London

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adie Williams infused her retro and sporty Autumn/Winter 17 collection with her signature metallics, bold primary colors and flared styling in the trousers, skirts and coats. And, what’s a sporty collection without a hoodie or two and of course, classic Converse Chuck Taylor high tops to finish each look.

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Pre-Fall 17

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Copy by Danny de la Cruz / Photography by Ash Reynolds

...inspired by the “Liquid Sky Emporium” of the 1990’s New York club scene, the Preen Line Pre-Fall 17 collection is colorfully bold, easy-to-wear and timeless.

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Vintage styling

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Modern hues

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Classic details

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udy Wu’s Autumn/Winter 17 collection entitled “Prism” was filled with rich Autumn tones of amber, gold, dark navy, emerald and black -- in panels, folds and pleats of materials ranging from cotton-velvet, wool, silk and organza. The result was the simple disruption of the continuity of lines – similar to the effect of light passing through a prism.

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bold rainbow of predominantly monochromatic looks created from jersey and satin fabrics created a stylish collection suited for an evening out on the town. With wrapped tops accented with elongated tassels and several looks with undulating quilted styling, this was a fresh and confident perspective for the coming season.

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bold perspective on Africa is what the team of Tata Naka presented as their Autumn/ Winter 17 collection at London Fashion Week.

Using tribal body paint as inspiration and transforming them into unique prints is the anchor for the collection.

And when combined with vibrant hues of greens, blues and red plaids, as well as floral accessories and animal print footwear to complete the looks, the entire African experience takes on a unique, yet wearable perspective.

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avid Koma’s models stormed the catwalk unleashing a sophisticated collection filled with military inspiration. Inspired by the folklore of his Georgian roots, the Autumn/Winter 17 collection was infused with green camo, burnt orange, bright blues and black & white combinations. The collection was artfully accented with fur trim on several pieces as well as ribbon, metal tubes and/or plexiglass which when combined, added the look of metal plating or armor -- an added layer of defense on several pieces which were elevated to another level. Leather quilting, floral macramÊ and silk lace were also used to add greater interest, yet took nothing away from the modern sleekness of the entire collection.

This was definitely a collection for that take-charge woman of action and who never surrenders!

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entered the presentation space at the Sanctum Soho Hotel to see Sadie Clayton’s AW17 collection and discovered her models perched atop copper, gear-like pedestals in the center of the room. Copper would play an integral part of the collection as Sadie showcased her sculptural style and beautiful interwoven embroidery.

Filled with luxurious colors of copper, burgundy, creams and black, Sadie Clayton incorporated copper metal as corsets and breastplates in several of the looks. It was a beautiful juxtaposition of hard and soft.

I was also pleased to see the return of her signature bomber jacket in the collection’s color palette and paired with a black leather skirt.

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entered the Swiss Church and was greeted with large, shrink-wrapped boxes piled high into the air and serving as the backdrop for the Haizhen Wang Autumn/Winter 17 presentation.

Models emerged from behind the boxes and as they walked forward, they began the chaotic movement of boxes from one place to another within the space.

Inspired by the growing immigration crisis around the world, the collection entitled “In Transit” represents the role of the transient as he/ she readies him/herself for migration.

Filled with pieces ranging in color from deep blue, black, green and red, the dark palette was subdued but punctuated with embroidered and Swarovski crystaled slogans such as “fragile”, “handle with care” and “priority” as well as extra-long belting similar to transportation straps used to secure packages in place. Beyond this, the transportation and migration themes were reinforced by quilting techniques in several pieces – symbolic of materials used to protect fragile contents.

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A Look Inside The Designer Showrooms Photography by Danny de la Cruz

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ocated alongside the official show and presentation spaces, the Designer Showrooms at London Fashion Week gave attendees a convenient way to discover an array of exhibitors showcasing accessories, jewelry, and multi-label/ready-to-wear fashions.

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| Copy and Photography by Danny de la Cruz

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he Roberts | Wood Autumn/Winter 17 collection is based on “an exploration of the everyday and the meaning we attribute to objects and events�. Set against a dark and moody landscape of black umbrellas, the spotlighted collection was composed of patterns and textures that are multiplied, layered, expanded and repeated to create beautiful pieces in a palette of blues, blacks and grays.

And similar to last season, Roberts | Wood incorporated light, ruffled accents to enhance the collection and add greater depth and interest to contrasting heavy wools and padded twills.

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A sporty collection for the Millennial generation

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Stylishly utilitarian and comfortably accessible

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On demand and on-the-go

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usic in my Mind was the theme for Paula Knorr’s Autumn/ Winter 17 collection. Set against the music of duo MADSIUSOVANDA, who performed live during the presentation, Paula Knorr’s collection of thin leathers, silks and tulle created strong visual silhouettes of fluidity and artistry -accented with reflective metallics which added contrast and depth.

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Backstage & Rehearsals

Copy and Photography by Danny de la Cruz

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n the final day of fashion week, I headed in early to the Emilio de la Morena show – 7:45 am to be exact. I was honored to get access backstage and see the preparation, rehearsals and to witness the talented designer at work. As I watched his team, I noticed one woman in particular working on a bright, fuchsia-feathered piece and then saw Emilio de la Morena jump in later with last minute alterations.

I wondered how this feathered piece would be incorporated into the show.

When it came time for the rehearsal, a 4-piece string quartet filled the empty, white room with beautiful music while the models paraded down the long catwalk. I already knew this was going to be a sophisticated event.

Soon it was time for me to take my seat in the front row. The lights dimmed and the string quartet began to play‌

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Emilio

de la Morena

Catwalk

Copy by Mabel Gago / Photography by Danny de la Cruz

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or Emilio de la Morena, London has been home for many years. His atelier is based in the prestigious Kensington area and receives visits from many stylists and celebrities in search of a winning red carpet look. Needless to say, fashion enthusiasts patiently wait for his collections.

Emilio is the best ambassador of his Mediterranean heritage. His collections have always embodied a passionate tribute to his roots -- the breeze, landscape and colors of the Mediterranean as well as the artisan hands of women. Their expert hands have learned the intrinsic art of embroidery from generation to generation.

And for Emilio, London embraces this Mediterranean spirit.

This combination helped to create a feminine collection and where silk, jacquard, lace and mohair are used to build a powerful silhouette. All the fabrics come from Valencia and appear to have obeyed the instructions of Picasso in terms of color combinations and shapes.

Emilio manipulates lace like few others.

Most likely, his background as an artist and his childhood around the artisan couture from Alicante, Spain, have a lot to do with this. Emilio masterfully uses lace as an element which emphasizes femininity not only in the ancestral Victorian style, but, also, in a powerful, sexy manner which can be worn at the disco.

Overall, colors used in this collection are the ones that shine under the Mediterranean sun.

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discovered Richard Malone as part of the Fashion East catwalks last September and was excited to hear that he was having a stand-alone presentation as part of this season’s fashion week events at the BFC Presentation Space. After having attended many presentations in the space during the prior four days, I knew that it was a dark and moody atmosphere. It actually seemed like a contradiction to the bold, bright and vibrant looks that I associated with this talented designer.

Upon completion of another catwalk, I headed straight to the space and was one of the first to arrive. As attendees were ushered in, I patiently waited in a darkened room, void of any models. Guests stood around the perimeter of the room waiting for something to happen. This was going to be a little different than other presentations.

Models soon appeared parading around in brightly colored, patterned and loose fittings pieces. There was a definite style linkage to the collection unveiled last September – a “uniform” look for everyday living. After several rotations around the room, the models lined up into two rows, one on each side of the room and the lights dimmed once again. A model from one line broke ranks and began an artistic, modern dance routine, one that showcased the flexibility and the freedom of movement the collection allows the wearer to have.

For this season, patterns are inspired by seats and soft furnishings found on public transportation – from buses, trains and ferries traveled upon by the designer -- and often times created a Trompe l’oeil effect. The collection was also accessorized with matching hats and pouches belted around the waist and of course, comfy white trainers to help one get through a long day.

Overall, Richard Malone successfully fused playful bursts of colorful and free-flowing energy with an often overlooked element in everyday life.

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asculine shapes with loose and relaxed structures prevailed in the Chalayan Autumn/Winter 17 collection which was inspired by the Balkan era of Greek folk culture. Monochromatic looks in hues of blue, gray and burgundy paraded onto the stage at the Sadler’s Wells Theatre – a range of coats and jackets of varied lengths, to pants, jumpers and skirts with chunky knits for added texture.

The big surprise near the end of the collection was the explosion of streamers, feathers and confetti popping from the chests of several models.

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The British Museum Copy and Photography by Danny de la Cruz

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he antiquities housed in the British Museum are second to none. From the famed Rosetta Stone in the Egyptian galleries, to the ancient Greek and Roman collections and so much more, it’s one of my favorite museums on the planet and a must-see when in London.

With more than eight million objects, give yourself plenty of time to explore or come back multiple times since it’s always free to enter.

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Hoa Hakananai'a statue from Easter Island

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The famed Rosetta Stone. Tip: There’s a replica on the first floor which you can touch.

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he red velvet invitation I received set the stage for the Aspinal of London Autumn/Winter 17 presentation. The curtains would rise and a new season of beautiful leather bags and products would make their debut to an audience ready to rise to their feet and shout bravo!

Held once again at Claridge’s in Mayfair, the room was filled with classic glamour inspiration from Hollywood’s Golden Age styled for today’s woman.

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HELLO

Ryan LO Copy and Photography by Danny de la Cruz

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his Autumn/Winter 17 show marked Ryan LO’s first since graduating from the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN program and what a show it was. But Ryan Lo is actually no stranger to the catwalks and actually a seasoned pro.

What he brings is such a unique, popcultured, inspired edge with a twisted flair and fervor unlike no other I’ve seen. But in the end, there’s an unexpected blend of modernity and sophistication that makes everyone stand up and take notice.

For this season, Ryan LO partnered with the iconic Hello Kitty brand and what I saw was purr-fectly delightful. I’ll let the visuals speak for themselves but I know that you’ll have a big smile on your face with every page you turn.

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DENIM DREAMS

Copy and Photography by Danny de la Cruz

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THE BLUES

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DENIM DAZZLER

Kristian Aadnevik Copy and Photography by Danny de la Cruz

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A provacative winter’s tale...

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...of myth & magic

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Photos provided by Barrus

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Socialize with us and see another side of

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