N o 23
Whatâ€™s Inside Issue 23
Cardi B Hip&Runway SS19 Trends
Colour My Future Marc Jacobs SS93 Redux
The New Year ushers in a host of resolutions, and despite best efforts, most will be broken. At Voir, we ignore this fad, instead preferring to make our mantra, ‘daring to be different’ a daily aim. In this issue, we examine the tastemakers, mould breakers and industry shakers who illustrate how this can be done. The magic of the fashion industry doesn’t lie in its prescriptive trends, but in how it can empower us all to add a little fantasy to our reality. That’s why we’re spotlighting the key Spring/Summer collections that echo the same message: that our power lies in our individuality. In this light, we bring you Hip & Runway forget what you think you know about Spring/ Summer fashion. We are talking suits stolen from your Dad’s closet, Californian tie-dye princesses and Ashley Williams’ take on neon. The season ahead, in the words of Hannah Oulton is all about “Those who dare win” a nod to the designers rebellious enough to stand out yet stand for something. One person who fits that description is enemy of ordinary, Rankin. The photographer and co-founder of the iconic publication, Dazed and Confused shares why he’s always used his photography to question norms. We explore his influence, his mission statement to young rebels and his direction of Busted’s ‘Nineties’ video. This provides the perfect springboard to explore the impact of the 90s in contemporary fashion, not least because we have witnessed the Marc Jacobs’ Perry Ellis 1993 ‘Grunge Collection’ redux, prompting
our writer Giorgio Grande to discuss ‘Why Should We Give A F*** About The Nineties?’ More and more we are experiencing the power of collaboration, in particular with influencers: the talented variety who are daring to be different within their chosen field. For Issue 23 we teamed up with Snoochie Shy, an MTV and BBC 1 extra ‘presenta’ (as per the sound of her dulcet cockney tones) in a transformative fashion editorial. We channelled our very own 90s inspirations, and via the lens of celebrated photographer Toby Shaw, captured 3 wondrous covers of our own, doing full justice to brands DB Berdan and Malan Breton. We’re proudly sharing our collaboration with Catalyst management – the daring group that represents a varied and bold cast of musical talent, including the likes of Mist, Michael Dapaah, (Big Shaq), Preditah and Tom Zanetti. Voir photographed the group in pure candid style, capturing their personalities, warmth, charm and strengths, fronted by Guv Singh. This extraordinary man shares his journey from stand-alone promoter to head of one of the most prolific artists’ roster in the UK. Issue 23 also discloses what we think of the real female boss. Rap Queen of this era Cardi B may be foul mouthed and dominating headlines, but behind the verbiage is a highly successful artist luring in big brands Reebok and Steve Madden. We take a look at her most influential red carpet fashion moments.
We also talk to an entrepreneurial role model, Sian Gabbidon, winner of The Apprentice 2018 and successful swimwear designer. Sian shares how passion and determination propelled her upward journey, and reality show victory. Finally, we can’t communicate fashion without a spirit of optimism. We are joined for the first time by world renowned media astrologer Joanne Hope, who provides an insight into what awaits us in early 2019, and the power of colour with luck. Beautifully conveyed through illustrations by our very own G.Spencer Morton, we think you’ll be seduced. We are confident that 2019 is a time where we can rock the boat of normality together, and as we shake off winter’s excess, let’s prepare for a season of challenges, catalysts and change. Issue 23 invites you to do one thing - dare to be different. xx Jyoti Matoo Editor-In-Chief email@example.com
Words: Hannah Oulton With an uncertain climate (in more ways than one), a sense of rebellion reflected in the Spring-Summer â€™19 collections; a boldness striking heart with those who want to be different.
The past few seasons have seen an outpour of wake-ups and shake-ups in the fashion industry. There’s been a movement to female empowerment, an awakening of representing the real woman, bold re-brands (Burberry), fashion heart-breaks (Céline-lovers I feel your anguish) and a LOT of talk about the sustainability of fashion for an endangered planet. With an uncertain climate (in more ways than one), a sense of rebellion reflected in the Spring-Summer ’19 collections; a boldness striking heart with those who want to be different. There were the obvious millennial/Gen-Z focussed trends (cool kids only please) but then there was a sense of nostalgia as we embraced some good ‘ole-fashioned 90s style. We saw our original Posh Spice celebrate 10 glorious years in fashion, hearken back to the decade it all began for her the 90s and The Spice Girls. “What we did was celebrate being different. We showed it was okay to be who you are,” Beckham said. “And that’s what this is about—empowering women through fashion. All women are different, and there’s something for everybody.” There’s a healthy, challenging spirit in the industry, where courageous (and daring) steps make way for an industry that must move with the times. Whether it’s Riccardo Tisci’s brave re-brand of Burberry or Marine Serre’s use of up-cycled materials; there is something refreshing about this rebellion.
Beige for days Yes, it’s a neutral tone and some might argue that it’s not exactly ‘new and fresh’ but by god, Spring Summer ’19 does it well. Burberry came in strong with their mantra ‘for all generations’ and, of-course, the icon: Burberry trench. They had all the shades of beige needed (pale to rich) and ALL the variations to wear them in - printed to plain, single textures to mixed: silk, wool, leather. There really was something for all generations. Tom Ford brought those edgy skirts and dresses in gorgeous caramel hues, with tailoring to boot. Look to Christian Dior for soft texturing and an outfit for every occasion whether it be opera or safari, they got you boo. And we couldn’t have a trend in beige without Max Mara; the home of the beige colour wheel. They were head-to-toe tonal beige in everything from leather to wool to cotton. Even the make-up matched the palette and I couldn’t be happier. This trend is so easy to follow and super-wearable. Start stocking up now, it’s going to be a popular one.
Beach, please Summer wouldn’t be summer without the beach wear. Not only for the beach, mind you, this trend goes from beach to bar seamlessly. Proenza Schouler offered us tie-die denim - jackets and dresses; very 90s, very wearable. The groundbreaking Marine Serre created 50% of her collection from up-cycled materials. The assembly had a distinct 90s edge with added up-cycled scuba diving suits and tie-die hues. So maybe the wet-suit dress was a bit much but you can’t deny the ingenuity of it all…get it girl! Calvin Klein is typical Californian cool, beach ready with scuba galore, water-colour prints and soft sorbet hues making us want to re-locate to Malibu. Ashely Williams’ tie die jeans are a must-have staple for SS’19 and her slogan-clad bodies pair beautifully with them. Throw on her short-sleeve print shirts, à la Baz Luhrmann’s Romeo & Juliet, and hear that surf a-callin’ your name.
Lace race As Victoria Beckham celebrated her 10th anniversary of the brand, her 90s layering paid tribute to the decade. She exhibited dresses over trousers (I adored that trend) paying particular homage to lace. Her lace shirts with a masculine edge became the immediate timeless, classic VB piece of the season. Off-White made all of our sport-style dreams come true for SS’19. Lace in sports I hear your ask? Oh yes, and Off-White make it look so easy. Cleverly layered within sports-luxe trousers, over relaxed sports tops, and a floor length overskirt (yes, floor length) with a vest-top. Shrewdly styled and presented…I’m seriously re-thinking how I dress for the gym. Erdem brought the romance, showing us how to mix textures using silk with lace inserts alongside the all-over lace-statement, ankle-sweeping dresses. All with a signature Erdem finish of stunning craftsmanship. Alexander Wang rocked out the cool: T-shirts with lace inserts, lace camisoles layered over joggers. Sexy and understated, the Wang signature.
The Devil’s in the detail Whether it’s the folk-band crochet, the boho fringing or the festival feathers, pay attention to SS’19 detail. Of course it wouldn’t be summer without Chloé. Chloé girls are the new-age boho, adorning gorgeous textures and layering. It’s all about the crochet dresses and knitted trousers paired with silk tops. Quintessential Chloé; if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Jacquemus was summer-loving on a runway. Crochet fringing, raffia bags (NEED!), flow and comfort with every step. Elegance and style was bundled up into buttercup yellow, burnt orange, sky blue and eyepopping pink. If you don’t feel boho beach ready after that collection you may need to check your pulse. Missoni is an ode to summer all in itself: fringing, layering, fine knit galore; all wrapped up in summer tones…yum. Givenchy seriously brought it with a fringed cape of dreams alongside an army of fringe-adorned sleeves, pleated finishings and a lot of sequins. Add in Gucci’s all-out runway of wonders and you, my friend, have the ultimate festival wardrobe. If you have allergies then this trend may not be for you. I, however, do not...so bring on those feather layers baby. Bring me the fringe, bring me the sequins and dear lord bring me the layers. I can wear it all at once, right?
Suit’s you When nodding to sustainable fashion, those staple pieces in big, bold, brights make it fun and fresh: sustainable statements. Escada brought us the 90s alive and kicking with shades of canary yellow, bubblegum pink and cobalt blue. Roksanda showed us those gorgeous 70s orange tones. Suits in a more relaxed silhouette but bold and beautiful none-the-less. Peter Pilotto was all about the shine for tailoring here. Gorgeous silk and satin finishes, mixed with big, boisterous prints. And finally, David Koma’s acid-green blazer dress of my mere mortal imaginings. That is all.
If all else fails - denim It’s acid-washed and it’s in. Oh-so 90s and oh-so wearable. Saved by the Bell is running round my mind and when I see Isabel Marant’s offering, it’s no shock why. It’s all about the denim. Double denim, triple denim; I mean jackets, shorts, dresses, boots. I’m down with it and I’m happy about it. The stand-out for me with this trend was Balmain, a fail-safe power-house in my opinion. This collection brought home the sexy denim. Simply add a bustier, killer heels and voila: Balmain nailed your party-chic look. Embrace it whilst it lasts people…we know variations of denim have their circle of life.
On yer bike We couldn’t have the SS’19 low-down without the throw-down, showdown. Whether you’re a fan or not, you can’t deny that the cycling short trend is holding fast! So Chanel donned the cycle short with their iconic boucle jacket and logo belt in ’91 and they pretty much pulled off the same look for SS’19. Successfully might I add. A tirade of designers have flocked to the look - Fendi, Prada, Stella McCartney to name a few. Whether you couldn’t think of anything worse or you need them in your life, you can’t deny it works for KKW…maybe it could work for us too? Maybe.
Accessories all areas Of course it wouldn’t be a fashion round-up without the most important act: the accessories. Hats are a must for SS’19 and whether you choose an appliqué skull cap from Emilia Wickstead, Chanel’s classic beach raffia hat or Moschino’s amazing printemblazoned statement boaters; you need one in your life, pronto. Bags were all about statement too. Balenciaga offered the icon of the season with the bold print, top handle. Of course there was also the fashion-savvy-must-have logo-decorated shopper from Christian Dior…which will no doubt be sold out already. Safe to say I need them both. And last but by no means least, bows are the accessory to watch as the big hit of the season. Incorporate into your staples (think blouses, off-the shoulder dresses), or add them yourself (shoulder details, waist ties); it’s the easiest trend to adorn without breaking the bank. Hurrah! Whilst there may be no surprises for the runway of Spring Summer ’19, there’s surely some boat-rockers ready to provide challenging collections, radical changes and rebellious fashions for those of us willing to get involved. Following a variation of a famous quote from an iconic British comedy TV show - ‘Those who dare, win’. Times are daring and it’s time for winners and I have a feeling Spring Summer ’19 is only the beginning. H.O
SS19 Intros by Eden Charkani, Montages by Brooke Kelsall.
Print, print and more print, we canâ€™t seem to get enough of it here. This season, designers have taken print to the next level, from extravagant feminine fits and floral designs at Dolce And Gabbana to pattern clashing at Paco Rabanne, Minki and Versace, proving there are no rules when it comes to vibrant patterns and prints.
Dolce & Gabanna
Prepare to be different by taking on this SS19 trend. Trimmings are bigger than ever and theyâ€™ve been storming runway shows such as Loewe, Richard Quinn and MSGM who have opted for fluffing feathers to bring their looks together. Givenchy, Philip Plein and Gucci, on the other hand, have taken more of a disco fever approach by adding sparkling metallic trimmings to their looks, giving the ultimate 80s glam feel.
Lower your carbon footprint and ride your way into SS19 with the cycling shorts trend. This firm favourite look was seen across shows including Chanel, who brought leisurewear to the beach; Fendi who showcased sports luxe, pairing it with military fits; and Stella McCartney who took on an elegant floral twist to give us the ultimate spring feel. There has never been a better time to adopt this affluent athleisure trend whilst screaming out â€œI want to ride my bicycleâ€?, Queen would thank you.
Chanel Roberto Cavalli
Suit yourself this summer and invest in this latest trend. Whether you’re a boss lady or just want to feel like one, we present some ideal suits that’ll fit your power woman needs. Escada and Malan Breton showed their authority during SS19 fashion week and flaunted a series of suits with pops of colour, whilst Alexa Chung and Boss brought outfits in neutral palettes, so there’s something for everyone. Who knew suits were such a necessity?
According to our featured media astrologer Joanne Hope, there has never been a better time to embrace a colour to fuel you into new beginnings. Set your sights on greener pastures quite literally, with a wardrobe full of emerald silhouettes (as seen at Gucci, Moschino and Jeremy Scott) to verdant, Jade, and Peridot offerings from Adriana Sahar and Richard Malone in the way of boxy fits, trench coats and two pieces. Just remember to never look back.
Snoochie wears Blue metallic Dress with ruched detail and reckless London text on straps and centre. Available at DB Berdan White patent knee high Boots with DB Berdan detailing, available at DB Berdan Yellow faux fur Coat TopShop £165 Le Skinny Orange Shades Poppy Lissman £95.00 Lace frontal Wig silver with electric blue highlights available at Shadzelle custom wig maker.
Malan Breton SS19 Purple sequins Blazer Jacket with Belt POA Jaded London, Patchwork floral Flares £35.00 Orange mid heel clear Mule available at PrettyLittleThing £25.00 Clear tortoiseshell Hand Bag PrettyLittleThing Choker stylist’s own Lace frontal Wig silver dipped in soft hot pink Shadzelle custom wig maker.
Lepoard print flare leg Catsuit available at Jaded London £55.00 teamed with Jaded London Cropped printed Denim Jacket Mixed Scarf Print £60.00. Globe shaped diamante tassel Bag PrettyLittleThing Malan Breton Camel heels gold curve platform Shoes. Lace frontal rainbow Wig Shadzelle custom wig maker.
Kim West Latex Bralette teamed with Jakke faux fur Coat £195.00 Green faux leather snakeskin straight leg Trousers PrettyLittleThing £45.00 Orange mid heel clear Mule PrettyLittleThing Gold chunky Chains stylist’s own Lace frontal rainbow Wig Shadzelle custom wig maker
Tiger velvet one sleeve Body Suit Jaded London £35.00 teamed with Metalic gold Slazenger Jacket £245.00 Zebra print Rara Flares Jaded London £75.00 Tiger head coin chain Belt stylist’s own Metallic gold strap Heels PrettyLittleThing £30.00
Lime green Blazer Dress SS19 Collection Whyte Studio £345.00 Scarf print zip high neck Dress Jaded London £40.00 Lace frontal Wig silver dipped in soft hot pink Shadzelle custom wig maker Red thigh high Boots stylist’s own.
By Giorgio Grande
I loathe what I remember of the 90s: I was a young child back then, experimenting with differing styles and grappling with my sense of identity. Faced with the crucible of growth that was the 00s, I quickly developed a taste for a language that was boundary-pushing and screamed against the grain of conformity. That said, I am now able to dissect the vast and diverse influx of 90s nostalgia that we are faced with, and ask the question: Why should we give a f*** about the 90s? We can’t escape the 90s. 90s-inspiried fashion dominates street style; the Marc Jacob SS19 Resort Collection is a redux of his seminal 1993 Perry Ellis Collection. Contemporary chart music is laden with tracks pining for the decade - think Busted’s ‘Nineties,’ with a video shot by Rankin, or Charlie XCX and Troye Sivan’s ‘1999.’ A Diverse Decade But you’d be remiss to think that the 90s was solely Nirvana band tees and butterfly hairclips that many retailers love to bastardise in the name of a vintage throwback. In fact, the 90s represents the most diverse era in recent fashion history, where the only point of having rules, was to break them. The decade, in all of its diversity, was both polarised and polarising. In the space of a few years, Paris, New York and Milan were intoxicated by excess, in love with an opulence that was seen on a Versace or Lacroix runway, and then discarded it all in the name of Helmut Lang’s minimalism, which was very much a rejection of decorative detail. Martin Margiela’s AW 1998 Ready-to-Wear Collection echoes this idea, with a pursuit of simplicity seen in its clean lines, luxury fabrics (such as cashmere and lambskin) and by capturing a tension between elegance and normalcy.
A War on Herion Chic Undeniably, one of the decade’s most controversial trends was that of ‘heroin chic,’ which brought with it a moral panic that prompted the White House to condemn the fashion industry and its open celebration of drug culture. We only need to recall the waifish figure of Kate Moss in a Calvin Klein ad to evoke this image. Let’s Talk About Sex, Baby 90s fashion made other eras appear comparatively puritan. There’s no denying that the decade was gripped by sex. But the 90’s sex obsession was more political than it was libidinous. In a period when the artistic industries were decimated by the AIDS crisis, sex and its deathly possibilities were made tangible. Jean Paul Gaultier eroticised the nude body in his naked body suits. He flirted with fetish in his French Cancan collection of 1992, where he presented his models in hound’s-tooth gimp suits. The decade was breast-obsessed, marking the dawn of the Wonderbra and the arresting image of Mugler’s metallic bras, which contrasted sensuality with a chilling discomfort. Who can deny that the faces of the decade were arousing sex symbols, lusted for, and illustrious - Claudia Schiffer, Laetitia Casta, Naomi Campbell.
Infinite Fantasy The fashion industry not only reached new heights, but also strived for what is beyond the stratosphere. We were spirited to a fantastical realm, wherein designers were unafraid to make their couture cosmic. Just picture Thierry Mugler’s snake women, walking down the runway like celestial sorceresses. Yves Saint Laurent took us to the harem when Kate Moss became an odalisque for his Opium campaign. Comme des Garçons slashed the gender binary with the fantastical androgyny of models that pre-empted the queer influences in today’s fashion. The 90s Impact Answered 90s fashion, in all of its variety, was characterised by a single question - what would a designer do next? There was a palpable anticipation. Today, we only wish to discover the next great enfant terrible, rather than see the highest echelon outdo their oeuvre. In an attempt to stay ahead of the ever-oscillating curve, the creators of the 90s demonstrated a total disregard for what was acceptable. Even today, with the surveillance of social media, collective tastes veer towards the temperate. We should give a f*** about the 90s because the decade reminds us not to give a f***. It is by breaking rules that we change them for the better. GG
By Giorgio Grande
It is ironic for a fashion magazine to praise grunge. Grunge is a rejection of fashion. Apathetic, irate, grimy and unbothered, grunge gave the middle finger to the designers of the early 90s. Picture the languid and greasy rock stars of the Seattle scene and you’re there. Grunge was a ‘f*** you’ to excess, a ‘piss off’ to consumerism. Yet, thanks to Marc Jacobs, grunge became a chapter in fashion history. The Perry Ellis Spring/Summer collection of 1993 is fabled. The collection achieved what most designers could only dream of - it dressed a decade. Poetic in its pervasiveness, the Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis collection dictated what both the fashionistas and even those who couldn’t give a f*** about fashion would be wearing. During a time when fashion catered for the elite few, Marc’s collection embraced youth culture and embodied a subculture. Think Shalom Harlow in Converse sneakers, Carla Bruni in Doc Martens, Christy Turlington in beanie hats. The collection was a feast of layering, a bounty of bootleg jeans and billowing white shirts. If the 80s was bright and colourful, the 90s had become a melange of navy, black and subdued plaid. Jacobs’ aesthetic, in his own words, was taken from how his super-model friends were already dressing, a far cry from the try-hard artifice that had become expected of the high fashion runway. Now, with the launch of the Marc Jacobs Resort 2019 collection, Jacobs is reproducing his 25-year old collection for a modern audience.
Grunge Now. Can lightning strike twice? Do we even want it to? Despite cementing his position as a fashion enfant terrible, the 1993 Perry Ellis collection was panned by critics and Jacobs was fired from the fashion house the very next day. What’s more, any grunge devotee could simply source some moth-eaten beanies and slashed denim jeans and call it a day. It’s no secret that many brands have been appropriating past pieces to great commercial success. Versace’s Gianni Versace tribute collection for Spring 2018 was a significant fashion moment. Helmut Lang has offered a more minimalist take on resurrecting past designs. However, even the oblivious will be aware of a 90s revival in our current zeitgeist. For example I’m writing this piece after playing the latest Pokémon game - the favourite pastime of my juvenile self. But reliving the 90s is more than just rehashing old trends. Rather, grunge is reborn precisely because the rebellious heart of the disenfranchised youth will never die. In a socio-political climate that breeds cynicism, grunge grows, feeding on the wellearned discontent of the young adult, shat on by the Brexiting bigwigs and the Trump-eting elite. If you want a piece of fashion history, to immortalise a moment that changed the way the world dressed, look to the Marc Jacobs Resort collection 2019. Most of all, next time you feel the flames of rebellion deep in your gut, fan them, and let them light up your wardrobe. When you next go grunge, just know that your threads are making a dynamic political statement regardless of how nonchalant you feel. GG
Words: Giorgio Grande The Ashley Williams SS19 collection, with its characteristic nosedive into the ocean of poor taste, begs us to ask the following: who gets to decide whatâ€™s chic?
The only thing consistent about the Ashley Williams Spring Summer 2019 show was its inconsistency. A melting pot of references, there’s no doubt that the show was disparate and disjointed. And that’s precisely why I loved it. The collection was unafraid of making a fashion faux pas and reminded us that there’s no room for the tentative when it comes to contemporary design. Sardonic Sartorial. It’s often in the space between good and bad taste that avant-garde is found. In her SS19 collection, Williams dons her models in puff-sleeved prom dresses in a sartorial statement that screamed pastiche. Only, these homecoming queens were wearing their hair in styles straight from Whoville. The designer’s humour was echoed in a newsprint motif (featuring anarchic symbols and weed leaves) that was seen on such prom frocks and throughout the collection. The result - models resembled newspaper chip cones. The SS19 show also had its fair share of neon animal print, which was one part Bette Lynch and one part Muppet on an acid trip. Despite all of this apparent ‘bad taste,’ Williams possesses a sharp humour that underplays her collection, and it’s this lightness in these often-gaudy design choices that makes the collection palatable. Simply, the SS19 show manages to do what many a design maven would warn against - too much. The flame of rebellion that underpins the collection is the same flame that characterises 90s fashion. In this sense, although Williams is eclectic in her visual influences, she is very much a 90s child. Where the era of 90s fashion broke its own rules to make room for innovation, Ashley Williams breaks aesthetic rules to redefine taste. We also love how unabashedly 90s the show’s makeup stories were. When you marry 90s goth-grunge and 90s acid punk, you find yourself an Ashley Williams model. Ashley styles her girls with messy eye-liner and neon hair that evokes the image of a 90s teen embracing her inner-emo, a precursor to Kelly Osbourne in her MTV incarnation.
Weed - it’s a Growing Industry. Ironic humour is synonymous with the hipster. It is no surprise therefore, that the cool kids go wild for Ashley Williams - her work displaying an inviting derision towards designers who take themselves too seriously. In her SS19 collection, crystal studded hair clips, track pants and sweaters were emblazoned with sardonic slogans ‘Where will you spend Eternity?’ ‘Sad Fuck’; ‘Social Cosmic Woman’ and ‘Damaged Angel’. Most noticeable was the recurring message introduced by opening model Bria Vinaite, star The Florida Project. Wearing a swimsuit reading, ‘Retired and loving it’, Vinaite delivered a tongue-in-cheek reference to the way Hollywood discards any actress who can no longer pass for premature, whilst also alluding to Bria’s former profession as a designer of weed-themed merch. In short, there was a level of self-awareness that exalted the SS19 collection from the realm of try-hard to referential avant-garde. Just as we’d expect. The Ashley Williams Effect There’s no doubt that Ashley Williams is a bona fide tastemaker in terms of contemporary womenswear. Known for making kitsch relevant rather than redundant, her references often inform the zeitgeist of the season to come. With a signature graphic style and sporadic inspirations, the designer has confidently made waves since graduating from The University of Westminster in 2012, and winning ‘Emerging Designer of The Year’ at the ELLE Style Awards 2015. The Ashley Williams SS19 collection, with its characteristic nosedive into the ocean of poor taste, begs us to ask the following: who gets to decide what’s chic? At Voir, we celebrate sharp humour, we respect those who are unafraid to make waves, and believe that a fear of the fashion faux pas can only achieve one thing - securing your place in the crowd. G.G
Photography: Luke Walwyn, Concept & Styling: Jyoti Matoo shot on location at The Gore London.
Catalyst Management is fast becoming the most prolific artistsâ€™ roster in the United Kingdom, managing the talents of Mist, Tom Zanetti, Michael Dapaah and more. Voirâ€™s Editor-In-Chief Jyoti Matoo met up with Guv to get to the heart of his journey upwards.
Voir: From a young age you have carried an entreprenurial spirit. In your teens you used to put business cards together for MCâ€™s and musicians. Can you tell us more about how you started out? Where did your love of music come from?
Guv: My love of music started when I was about six years old. In my early teens, 13 or 14 everyone was trying to MC. There was an MC group I joined, I was terrible. I used to make mix tape covers and business cards. I would cut them out and laminate them and send them off to pirate radio stations and promote it on MSN, basically I did all the marketing. From there it was a natural progression.
I would put on house parties and raves, dubstep raves. As the MCs got bigger, I would put on bigger raves up and down the country. Literally, that was my whole thing. I wanted to be the biggest promoter in the game. It was a hard game. You would take losses, barely break even, work all week and put all my money into the rave...it was really hard. Going up against the big dogs in the game. It was a hard, hard sell standing outside clubs and such with flyers. I built a big network through promotion which lead to managing, and gained an understanding of the scene…from the bottom upwards. I met my first big act, a beat boxer. So I just managed his bookings for £50...£60 and was learning how to deal with promoters and the industry from that level. Tom Zanetti booked the beat boxer for a gig and that’s how we met, I saw him smash down a rave. I knew he had to become known, so I approached him and we went into business together. I used a lot from my first few projects at uni and immediately put them to action with Tom. How did you go from 1 to 10 artists? Tell us the journey Tom Zanetti I met Tom, worked together then landed a record deal. I had just finished uni, moved back to my hometown, opened a dessert parlour and trampoline park while working in music. Music wasn’t bringing in enough money so I had to bring it in elsewhere. I had to decide between the business I had built and music, thank God I chose music. Since Tom’s first single blew up, we brought on an agent and started touring around Europe. When his second single “You want me” went platinum, everything grew massively. I made managing my full-time job.
Tom Zanetti wears Velvet Dress Jacket 1851 £99, Suit Trousers 1851 £70 both tailored fit, Dress Shirt, Cufflinks, Silk Bow Tie, Black Patent Leather Shoes, Silk Pocket Square, Suit Braces - all available at Moss Bros. London.
Swifta Beater From raves I met DJs and producers, like Swifta Beater. After he came out with “Man don’t care” I took him on as my first producer.
Swifta Beater wears Velvet Dress Jacket 1851 £179, Suit Trousers 1851 £70 both tailored fit, Dress Shirt, Cufflinks, Silk Bow Tie, Black Patent Leather Shoes, Silk Pocket Square, Suit Braces - all available at Moss Bros. London. Glasses Vintz Shop POA
Mist wears Velvet Dress Jacket 1851 £179, Suit Trousers 1851 £70 both tailored fit, Dress Shirt, Cufflinks, Silk Bow Tie, Black Patent Leather Shoes, Silk Pocket Square, Suit Braces - all available at Moss Bros. London. Glasses Vintz Shop POA
Mist Once we were down in Derby and I was in a barber shop, and these kids came in playing music on their phone. It was Mist freestyling and they were mad gassed about it. I got back home, and my little cousin messaged me. “Yo have you heard this Mist guy. He’s got Punjabi in his lyrics” I did a little research into him and thought this guy is cold, so I hit him up. We met a few times, like ten times but we never talked about business. I told him I would manage him for free until we start making money, so there was really no risk for him. We did it and the rest is history. We toured the world, shot videos and that’s when Banglez reached out to us.
Banglez We met him in Birmingham, he wanted to produce records with us. He, Mist and I all went down to London and made a record and built a great relationship together. We stayed at Banglez’ for 8 months in his studio and it all came together. He wanted to become a huge producer and was an absolute mad scientist about making music. After staying with him for 8 months we couldn’t say no and we got him a record production deal. They all had record deals and so it all just came together. I had Tom, Mist and Banglez, which made a solid line up for a business. Steel Banglez wears Velvet Dress Jacket 1851 £99, Suit Trousers 1851 £70 both tailored fit, Dress Shirt, Cufflinks, Silk Bow Tie, Black Patent Leather Shoes, Silk Pocket Square, Suit Braces - all available at Moss Bros. London. Glasses Vintz Shop POA
Michael Dapaah wears Velvet Dress Jacket 1851 £99, Suit Trousers 1851 £70 both tailored fit, Dress Shirt, Cufflinks, Silk Bow Tie, Leather Dress Shoes, Silk Pocket Square, Suit Braces - all available at Moss Bros. London.
Michael Dapaah I was at a random meeting at Warner walking the corridor when I saw the president of the company talking to Michael (Big Shaq). I saw he was by himself, so I asked if he wanted to grab some food. He knew of me but we hadn’t met. I told him the freestyle he released “Man’s not hot” had gone viral and needed to become a record, and done properly with a producer, music lawyer, agreements. I set it all up for him and we started working together. His records were going platinum and we had lined up publishing deals. We ran the campaign, toured the world, built the company and made him a global success. On the back of that, Tom and Preditah made a record together.
Preditah Preditah was looking to move forward in his career and had seen what Swifta was up to, so he approached me about management. I knew of his work so I couldn’t say no despite the back of my head telling me “no more no more.”
Preditah wears Velvet Dress Jacket Noose & Monkey £72, Black Dress Trousers DKNY £120, Dress Shirt HUGO by Hugo Boss £79, Cufflinks, Silk Bow Tie, Leather Dress Shoes, Silk Pocket Square, Suit Braces - all available at Moss Bros. London.
Blade Blade and I have been friends for more than ten years, so he’s been in my life before all this happened. I could have managed him years ago but it didn’t feel like the right time. The UK rap scene is part of mainstream culture so I can now propel him so much further. He’s got some crazy news in the works, crazy ,crazy news.
Blade Brown wears Velvet Dress Jacket 1851 £179, Suit Trousers 1851 £70 both tailored fit, Dress Shirt, Cufflinks, Silk Bow Tie, Black Patent Leather Shoes, Silk Pocket Square, Suit Braces - all available at Moss Bros. London.
Sam After a while Sam Tompkins started to come around the office to hang out and kick it. We helped and guided him and eventually we signed him on thinking “This guy’s going to be our Beiber.”
You don’t just manage musicians, tell us more about your other clients and how you work We work closely with Jessie Lingard, mainly with his image, brand and commercial aspects. All our footballers love our musicians and our musicians love our footballers. We are currently merging with one of the biggest footballer agencies in Europe to bring the players and musicians gathered under one super group. Footballers are so big they’re brands. A lot like American sport stars are. There’s an attitude of keeping within the clubs and keeping to themselves, but they stand and influence so much and can have a huge impact on society. Our job is to bring that to the forefront, therefore the merger. So its becoming more PR and public image? It’s a bit of both really. When there’s content we’re involving both footballers and musicians, putting footballers in music videos and promoting new music on the footballers’ social media. If you could manage anyone, who would you want to manage? Tupac. I would love to manage him. He was a great artist and great actor, but his vision and work rate was crazy. He pulled out five albums before 25, which is mental, and loads of movies. Ed Sheeran is another one, he just goes out on stage with a guitar and sells out for thousands. 50 cent is another one. It’s a massive investment on both sides, for both the management and the talents. What do you look forward to most in the process? How do you know you’ve found a star? I can’t really put into words what it’s like to find a star, you just know. It’s very intuitive. Yes, the music can be great, but they also need the personality and everything else. Every one of my artists is unique and has the personality and strengths to make it. They have distinctive qualities.
Interview by Giorgio Grande, Photographs Â© Rankin
The proverb gods say that you should never meet your heroes. However, they say nothing about interviewing them. It is with a heady cocktail of disbelief and pleasure, therefore, that I speak to Rankin. Read what he has to say on the 90s, his ‘Nineties’ music video for Busted and the power of youthful indignation. The co-founder of Dazed and Confused, founder of Hunger, Rankin Film, and seminal fashion photographer, Rankin has secured his place in the canon of single-name icons. Along with Cher, Björk, Twiggy and Bono, Rankin proves that a single word can invoke a million. Rankin has changed the landscape of the fashion industry, directed provocative campaigns, and manages to be cool in the only way you can be – without trying. GG: Rankin, at Voir, we owe a lot to you, a pioneer of British fashion publishing. What inspired you to launch Dazed and Confused, and later publish Rank, Another, Another Man and then Hunger? Rankin: With Dazed it felt like a right place right time situation. It was the early 90s and there was this strange synchronicity between the way Jefferson and myself where looking at the world, the YBA art movement, this push of independent British bands and young actors at the vanguard of the British Film Industry. It was a moment where you could look around and see that there was a voice to our generation which needed to be formed. We of course loved and were influenced by magazines like Interview and The Face but we felt like we had something to say too, and, maybe a bit narcissistically, we thought people would want to hear it. Whilst I’ve always been a photographer it was at college I knew I was also a publisher. I met Jefferson doing a student union magazine and everything with us just clicked. Going on to publish Rank, Another and Hunger it all comes from that. Dazed was amazing as we always held at its heart a way to showcase the new and the unknown and every magazine I’ve started has had that in it. I want to show and share new talent and amazing visuals and style - magazines have been my way to promote not only myself but the exciting things around me..
Blur Â© Rankin
Damage Â© Rankin
We like to think that the Voir reader doesn’t follow fashion, but dismantles it. We cater to the irreverent, the youthful rebel. Do you think that today’s youth has a duty to challenge authority? People talk about culture in the 90s as though it was a working class rebellion, but that wasn’t really what was happening. The Blur vs Oasis story in the press was sold as middle class kids against the working class guys done good - but the reason it was so exciting was that we had two amazing young bands shaking up the music status quo. It was young people telling the world this is what British culture is. I would hate to think that this is just something from our past. Young people have to question, they have to look around and ask why is the world the way it is, why is fashion so elitist? why is culture like this? Without contrary voices, there is no progression and it’s part of the reason why millennials get a bad rap. They are asking for a more liberal, more even world and that’s exciting. I’ve always used my photography as a way to question norms in the photography industry - I did shoots about thin models called “Hungry?” and photographed plus sized models and gender neutral models before either were part of the fashion-norm. It’s great to think that younger creatives today cannot just accept the world is how they have been told it is.
I loved your documentary, ‘Seven Photographs that Changed Fashion.’ Would you say that there’s a unifying element that makes great fashion photography stand above its competition? Really great work in any creative field exists beyond its medium, when it reflects the society it represents. People buy into it as cultural documents that reflect their lives. The best fashion photography tells a story, it gives you an idea/critique of the world at the time. Although photography is the perfect medium to fully capture a single moment in time, you have a way of capturing the essence of your sitter. How do you go about this? I like to get people to relax when I take their photo. Very few people are actually comfortable in front of a camera, so building a rapport with the sitter is key to get their personality to come through. When I look at an image of someone I want to feel a connection with them.
Your ‘What’s it Going to Take?’ poster campaign, launched in 2007, is an example of some of your most arresting and impactful work. You’ve also shot the Dove ‘Real Woman’ campaign. With the significance of the #metoo movement, it’s apparent that the need to spotlight the problem of domestic violence and women’s issues is still profound. Do you have any plans to work on more projects with an overtly feminist agenda? I’ve always felt if you’re in a position to shine a light on a topic it is your social obligation to do it. I’m never going to shy away from making those important statements and promoting these issues which I feel are so important. Coincidentally I’ve just done a very powerful project with FGM. On a lighter note, we love your direction of Busted’s ‘Nineties’ music video. What drew you to the project? I first shot Busted in 2004 for Band Aid 20 and loved how down to earth and easy to shoot they were - they didn’t take themselves too seriously. So, when I got the chance to do the Nineties video I immediately knew it was a project I wanted to work on. There is something infectious about their personalities and with such a catchy song it was always going to be a great video to work on.
You’ve said that the ‘Nineties’ video is designed to make people feel good. This absolutely shows, and it is both cheeky and referential. Are there any references that you wanted to include but didn’t make the cut? We wanted to reference Oasis, as we all love them, but it didn’t quite fit in. I’m sure I’ll get another chance at some point.. At Voir, we love the 90s, and the many things it stands for. It was a time of pluralism, where disparate styles could exist at once. Yet, with your work at Dazed, you helped to inform the aesthetic of the time. What does 90s fashion mean to you? Awh man – I can’t answer that. it meant so much at the time, but now I look back and I don’t even remember it. The thing is my photos were never really about the clothes per se but what the idea behind the shoot was. I’m actually not that good a fashion photographer because I don’t care enough about the fashion itself, but about how seductive the imagery is. Above: Hunger 8, 2015, Cry Baby; Right: Hunger11, 2016, Birdsong © Rankin
Hunger 11, 2016, It’s A Small World © Rankin
90s nostalgia is huge. Why do you think 90s culture is so pertinent to contemporary youth? I think there is something about the self-expression of the 90s which means a lot to people now. The ‘I can be whatever I want to be attitude’ is very exciting and attractive. We all felt it at the time and I think that you can see that in the work we did, the way we partied, etc. etc. The funny thing is in the 90’s we all had the same thing about the 60’s. Is there anyone that you haven’t yet photographed, who you’d love to? There are definitely people on my list who I’d love to photograph. I’m obsessed with large personalities so part of me would love the chance to photograph Trump. But if I could pick someone who it would be an honour to photograph, then it would defo be Obama. You say that your favourite person to photograph is your wife. How does having a relationship with the sitter affect your approach to photography? Funnily enough I used to hate photographing partners, but when I met Tuuli that all changed. We have a short hand with each other that makes it easy and because I love everything about her personality and physicality, it is still always exciting.
You can watch Rankin’s ‘Nineties’ video for Busted below, and read more about his contributions to the fashion industry in our review of ‘Rankin: Unfashionable – 30 Years of Fashion Photography.’ HERE
Alexander McQueen © Rankin
By Holly Lamb
From rags to riches, Cardi B is the girl from the Bronx on an unstoppable rise to the top. The new so-called ‘Queen of Rap’ has taken the world by storm within a year- for better or for worse. From her number one singles such as ‘Bodack Yellow’ and ‘I Like It’ to her active social life, you’ll be hearing the name Cardi B everywhere you go, and like it or lump it, she’s here to stay. Belcalis Marlenis Almanzar, professionally known as Cardi B proudly started out as a stripper in the Bronx, New York. A place that is notoriously known for being the poorest borough of the city. So, how did this girl turn her whole life around and propel herself into a global phenomenon, with a net worth of over $4million as well as lucrative sponsorship deals with Reebok, Steve Madden and Fashion Nova? You could say Cardi B’s biggest break was appearing on the reality TV show ‘Love and Hip-Hop’, a show following the lives of various artists involved in the New York Hip-Hop scene. By showcasing the outspoken artist she developed a huge following, with the nation now donning sayings like ‘OKURRP’ and ‘DAYUMMMM’ thanks to her loud mouth attitude. As well as being an influential female rapper Cardi B is now a notoriously dominant presence on the red carpet scene, with high end designers racing to dress her due to the media storms she so often creates. Here we present a timeline of Cardi B’s top 5 most influential red carpet looks...
1. September 2017, 3rd Annual Diamond Ball This look can only be described as Cardi’s Cinderella moment in a stunning mint green Christian Siriano gown that needed a team of people to carry. 2. January 2018, 60th nniversary Grammys Classy yet innovative, Cardi knocked it out of the park in this uber-stylish made-to-order white lace gown from Ashi Studio. By teaming the look with some sassy lace Christian Louboutin stilettos and Swarovski-encrusted acrylic manicure, Cardi proved this girl from the Bronx could turn from trashy to classy.
3. May 2018, Cardi B Met Gala dress This look can only be described as iconic. Cardi was so on theme with this outfit we couldn’t take our eyes off her. Well done Jeremy Scott, we applaud you for this heavenly masterpiece. 4. August 2018, VMAs Chic, edgy and a total surprise. Moments like this you can count on Cardi B to constantly be changing the game. Everything about this look shouts classy and sexy- from the side split to the cute pixie cut. ‘AKKUURPPP’ Cardi B’ slayin.
5. October 2018, American Music Awards Being nominated for 8 awards including video of the year for ‘Bodak Yellow’ you have to look like the influential girl boss that you are. Cardi certainly didn’t disappoint fans at the AMA’s in October 2018 with her stunning floral corset dress with matching flower peep toe heels and hair wrap.
No matter the drama or ruckus she is creating on the red carpet, Cardi B knows how to dress for the occasion. These outbursts are even said to be the main reason for her new sponsorship deal with Reebok with the trainer giant stating in a press release, “Everything that you love about Cardi B is what you love about Reebok, there’s nothing we love more than taking risks and standing boldly behind those who do the same.” HL
Illustrations: G.Spencer Morton, Graphics: Luke Walwyn.
In a Voir exclusive, world renowned astrologer Joanne Hope, whose clients include the Osbournes, Caroline Flack and the Housewives of Cheshire, provides an insight into what awaits us in early 2019. Suggesting auspicious colours for each zodiac sign, she invites us to make a consciously stylish start to the new year.
For Private bookings with Joanna Hope head to Psychicwish.co.uk @Hopepsychic
For January/February Mars your fiery ruler and planet of action, is in full force in Jan/Feb 2019. This heralds adventure and creativity in your career. Let your intuition take you in the right direction and go for gold. Courageous and bold, you get to the next level. Wear your lucky colour red to give you an extra boost of luck. Your intellectual prowess proves successful as you are present and mindful in all you do in your career. Financial decisions made in February prove beneficial as your commitment to improving your income pays you dividends. You are a fabulous leader and demonstrate your authority through belief in yourself. Be a light unto the world! Love is on your mind and in your heart in January, daring to be different and impulsive enough to take the risk. You are radiant and inspire love to come your way. Romantic and imaginative actions turn your dreams into reality. A turning point in your love life happens as a lunar eclipse in your fifth house of pleasure can help you discover what you really want in love. Trust yourself and follow what your heart desires and make a special effort to show you care. Your good heart leads you to a fruitful life and a relationship you can count on. Use patience Aries. Lucky colour RED
For January/February You will push the boat out with those fashionable horns and get decisive about your career impressing everyone you meet in 2019. Jan/Feb sees you aiming straight for your goals in financial matters and getting lucky thanks to your planning and strategy. Wearing your lucky colour green will help! Your positivity creates a great atmosphere and the connections you make prove to be interesting. Jupiter is in Sagittarius thus making you more and more focused on your success and bringing the Midas touch in your career sector. Serious and determined, you achieve a perfect balance with work and play. Being recognised for your finer qualities and first-class brain, you feel appreciated and secure.Â Get ready for a great awakening in your love life, February feels fabulous and so do you as you can jump in the deep end of romance and pull out all the stops. You will bring some sparkle into your love life by being optimistic with the one you love or desire. Your pursuit of happiness pays off. Jupiter brings you good fortune and blessings, moving through your eighth house of intimacy. Trust you will stay grounded and continue to make progress in your ideal for a beautiful relationship. A deep connection develops further so especially trust your gut feelings. Lucky colour GREEN
For January/February 2019 will bring sweeping changes in your money sector, especially with shared resources. Jupiter the planet of expansion exerts a powerful influence on your finances and you get a boost as your good karma catches up with you. As January gets underway allow yourself a well-deserved pat on the back as your blessings will start to flow. Due to the eclipse of Cancer in Capricorn you will continue building up your career with zest and ambition. You are ruled by mercury and your ability to communicate your ideas proves very lucrative in February. Build it and they will come to mind for the quick-witted Gemini. Keep planning your domestic dreams as lucky Jupiter is smiling on your love life once more. Be a beacon of hope for your loved ones and they will appreciate your kindness. Twin flames are sizzling hot so itâ€™s a really good time to meet your soul mate. Inspired by love and building the right foundation to your love life, you create a lasting happiness as the home and family become your priority. You have a lunar Eclipse in Leo bringing you lots of fulfilment with what your heart has been desiring. Lucky colour YELLOW
For January/February Building a strong foundation that offers stability and excellence in your work will make the perfectionist in you shine. Jan/Feb holds untold benefit to you as others celebrate you and see there is no end to your talents. A leading role suits you and you gain in popularity and status. Your emotional intelligence and never-ending creative genius gets you everywhere in your career. The solar eclipse in Capricorn on Jan 5th makes it a time to really realise your vision, move those mountains and embrace your destiny. You are the master of your fate and you will be a tremendous success.Â Your love life takes off as magic is in the air, partnerships are bringing love and the promise of domestic bliss. Love and security will be high on your list and only genuine true love will do. The stars are writing a love story for you and your soul mate as you discover the playful side to love and enjoy building a relationship that has a great future. Positive changes sweep in and take you by surprise, stirring excitement into your love life. Dare to express your dreams and watch them manifest. Lucky colour WHITE
For January/February Destined for success, preparation is the key for all you are doing now. Your feline charm can excel you into realms very suited for the royal cat. You are rewarded by good fortune for your ability to help others see their own potential and fantastic opportunities come your way as a result. Generosity is bestowed upon you and in return your loyalty knows no bounds. Feeling empowered and rejuvenated, the road ahead is glittered with success.Â Itâ€™s a great time for falling in love and to enjoy being in love as Jupiter is moving through your romance chart and will make sure you are loved in the best possible way. Surprising events abound as love has a way of finding you and offering you its precious gift of happiness. Feel the love Leo. Lucky colour GOLD
For January/February Keeping your eye on the prize, you make progress by being focused, creative, perfecting details securing your professional world knows what you are all about. The bigger picture brings team work and cooperation to help you to achieve your goals. You are quick to seize opportunities and make them work for you, bringing your wishes into reality. Be decisive, and you wonâ€™t miss a trick. January brings a solar eclipse in your romance sector and will help your love life by bringing in a genuine partner. The planet Saturn is playing a big role in your romance sector too and can bring about more commitment and plans for the future. A solid relationship seems likely as the god or goddess within you will surely show up and reach for the heights of love. A good love match can be made as Saturn is the great teacher and will help you fulfil each otherâ€™s expectations. St Valentine himself would approve! Lucky colour GREEN
For January/February Your inner life comes into balance with your outer life. Practical application of your creative ideas are your success story. Your eye for all things beautiful holds you in good stead as you bring out the best in everyone. Career developments help shape your plans as you are closer to your goals than you think. You are destined to do great things and securing your place in the bigger picture is exactly the right thing to do now. Jan/Feb are a launchpad for you to do so. Embrace those big projects.Â Adventurous days are ahead in your love life as a real sense of excitement sets in. Changes occur designed to help you experience emotional renewal and a sense of contentment and satisfaction within your romantic life. Dream the dream Libra. Lucky colour BLUE
For January/February Concentrate on your financial affairs as Jupiter is in your income sector bringing abundance with a bigger disposable income. ‘Do it in style’ comes to mind as you shape your career path in a positive life affirming way, creating a harmony co existing alongside a professional work ethic, impressive and efficient. No need to take risks as you are lucky enough to have expert knowledge as a tool to use when making your plans. Trust your instincts. Love is playing a major role in your life and you can’t help giving it your attention, being more romantic and imaginative you will fuel the fire of your heart’s desire and feel more loved and appreciated in return. Follow your heart. Lucky colour BLACK
For January/February Just like the archer, you hit your target with skill and precision, a certain elegance features in your communication with others and the sweet smell of success presents itself as you impress people almost instantaneously in your work. Important contacts prove to be lucrative and can open doors you never imagined, anything is possible. A powerful time for you in your career. A time to go full speed ahead as lucky planet Jupiter is in your sign of Sagittarius giving you lots of blessings, affecting and enhancing your love life making it possible to have a powerful loving relationship. Fall in love, remember cupidâ€™s bow straight to the heart, fate steps in and gives you a helping hand. Be ready to make a commitment. Lucky colour BLUE
For January/February Discipline and maturity are the keywords as you enter 2019. Saturn your ruler gives you authority and influence and your reputation soars. You give your all to your responsibilities and lead with the right approach in your career. Master of your craft, you are determined to succeed so aim high and shoot for the stars. Helpful influences surround you so consider all your options at work. There is a traditional approach to your love life that attracts stable lovable forces. True love seems to be in the air. You value your love life and give it your all. Romantic plans can come to fruition and are worth the effort. Be imaginative. LuckyÂ colour INDIGO
For January/February Expect to get busy in Jan/Feb as thanks to Jupiter your network and influential associates is expanding, and you are recognized for your expertise. Sought after, you experience how much you are appreciated. New feelings of hope empower you while your ambitions are matched by your excellence. Go big or go home is staying true to yourself, so as you teach by example, others will admire your lead. Alliances are formed that bring about success. Your love life has a lunar eclipse on Jan 21st and this will prove to be an eye opener for you as you discover you are admired more than you think. Love lights up your life and you are optimistic with your prospects of a happy relationship. Friendships can have a beneficial effect on your love life so social engagements are well starred for meeting “the one”. Lucky colour VIOLET
Pisces For January/February The new year for you is inspired by bright ideas and brings great opportunities into your career. Just by thinking out of the box, taking action and making the most of the magnificent influence of Jupiter, planet of blessings and abundance assisting you in your professional life and putting your many unique talents to good use. You will succeed and have positive financial benefits and literally reap the rewards. Be ambitious Pisces. A fresh perspective can work wonders for your love life and as you are looking forward to the future you see just how far you have come. Romance is in the air and you fair well with a compatible companion you’ve been dreaming of. Commitment is the key to your heart, and your romantic love life becomes more meaningful and special. Lucky colour AQUA
Inspired by bright ideas
Intro: Min Luu, Interview: Jyoti Matoo
Recently crowned winner of The Apprentice 2018, Sian Gabbidon has come a long way to make her dreams come true. Starting from nothing, this 26-year-old fashion designer has worked her way to the top with her reversible swimwear range.
With celebrities like Kate Wright and Love Island star Kaz Crossley seen modelling her luxury line way before her Apprentice appearance, expect to see the collection “SWIM by Sian” adorned by a selection of 2019 Love Island contestants. Voir caught up with Sian to discuss her brand, challenges she has faced, boardroom battles, and what it takes to be successful.
JM: What inspired you to create your swimwear brand, and when did you first fall in love with fashion? Sian: I started designing based on what I liked - I studied fashion at uni. I used to go to pool parties and I’d end up wearing swimwear that didn’t fit very well. Everyone else would be wearing it and I just wanted to design something that I like that would make me look a little bit different from everyone else. So I guess in terms of inspiration, I take it more from just me. It’s what I like. You have some really cool and creative designs which are just a little bit different. Are there particular designers, shows or colours that have inspired you when you design? And do you have to be in a particular mood when you’re designing? I guess you could say I take a little bit of inspiration from every day. I might be sat on a train and look at the print on the chair and think “Ooh that’s nice, I could imagine that in a bikini” and then I might see things on Instagram. I’m not really one to look at brands and say “I like that. I’m going to use that idea.” Because I like to think my product is almost its own. Celebrities Megan McKenna, Chloe Goodman, Kate Wright, and Love Island stars like Kaz Crossley have been wearing your swimwear line. How did these opportunities arise? It’s great to talk about that because I know other people with similar brands. They pay a lot of celebrities to do that kind of thing. I’ve never ever done that. We usually have stylists messaging us. When I first set up, I had this stylist say “I really like this piece. Can you send me a couple of pieces? These are my favourites.” And in my head I thought “Wow”. And then Kate Wright wore them all over Dubai. For me, that’s what really started the brand. Because the reception I got from her post and her following on Instagram, that’s where it kind of went from being just me in my bedroom to a business. I kind of tried to knock on a few doors but it’s hard when you’re small and no one really cares. When the stylist started getting involved, that’s when it was like “Oh wow, okay” it’s taking it to another level.
JM: You said you identify with Coco Chanel as a role model in business, why? Sian: Chanel is like a rags-to-riches story and she started from nothing. Her brand is now worth however many millions and billions. Any rags-to-riches story is inspirational for me. I’m not from a rough background, but we started off and we didn’t have much. My parents are hardworking people and I’m an only child, so they basically put everything into me. I went to school and college and every time I was anywhere I’d think “I want to be better, I want to do more.” My mum and dad work every hour under the sun and they provide. I don’t want to work 9-5, I want to work for myself and build my business. I find it really inspirational when you listen to people’s back stories, and they started from £20 and now they’re millionaires. What has been your greatest challenge in running Swim by Sian, and how have you overcome these challenges? I guess the biggest challenge was to try and stand out from the crowd because there was a lot of competition. It’s finding that something special that makes you unique and I think for us, I like to think it’s the designs, but also with my brand, people buy into me as well. So I’d say the hardest thing is to stand out from the crowd because it IS crowded. What made you apply for the Apprentice? I’m a massive fan and I used to watch it every year. I used to say to everyone “I’d love to go on the Apprentice.” Whilst watching I’d think “these fools. If I went on I’d be better than these!” I applied, I didn’t even tell anyone I was going to do it at the time. I couldn’t even believe that I’d got on the show, it’s like a dream. It gets pretty heated in the boardroom. How do you hold yourself together in those situations? Before I went in, I think I was very conscious of not being stereotyped as the argumentative one. I didn’t really want to have that label because that’s not me. In my head I thought I don’t want to go in with a game plan. I was just myself and it seemed to work alright, so I try to keep out of the arguments and be a bit smarter than that.
You were appointed as the project manager twice and won both tasks. What do you think made you stand out? I think the first task was really tricky because it was still kind of early days, and as much as I had my ideas and opinions, I didn’t want at that stage to be revealing “this is what I’m gonna do because I’m gonna do it.” I thought I still needed to keep everyone on my side, and listen to their opinions. When I managed the second one, I thought “Right, sack it now.” If I get fired, I get fired. If we lose, I’m not bothered. I’m going to go out with a bang and I’m just gonna do what I’m gonna do.” I felt there was a massive difference in the way that I managed the teams from first to second task as project manager. Second time around I just thought I’m going to do it all myself, and if we lose then it can all be on my head and I’ll get fired, but we won, so it all worked in my favour. Being a successful woman, what advice would you give to young hopefuls who want to chase their dreams and passions just as you did? My advice to them is don’t be afraid to just do it. People might say you’re crazy for doing it or say it’s never going to work, but if you’re genuinely passionate about what you’re doing and you love it and your heart’s in it, you will make it work regardless. That’s what I did, but I was smart with it. I didn’t just sack off uni, I learnt my skills and I’ve put the time in. I spent four years at university studying so I was an expert in my field, and then set my business up. I think sometimes people are premature, they quit their job and say “right I’m gonna set a business up.” I mean sometimes it’s successful, but I think you need to know your industry. So I’d just say know your industry, know what you want to do and your goals, and go for it.
BEAUTY Intros by Ash Jayy, Montages by Luke Walwyn
Always struggling to get that perfect, simple, small, cat eye flick? Fear no more for this season bigger is better. Take inspiration from Marni where Pat McGrath used black liner to create a bold, intricate winged look, or if youâ€™re short on time, look to Rochas, where makeup artist Lyndsey Alexander created graphic floating eyeliner on otherwise neutral faces.
French red lips are an iconic beauty statement. You can either take a classic approach and let the lips stand out by themselves as at Dolce & Gabbana and Chanel, or combine them with some loud and bright eye shades inspired by Rodarte. Whatever your choice, let your lips make a statement without saying a word.
Everyone loves a bit of sparkle, and this season you have permission to take it to the extreme. Whether you go for a metallic mood like Jeremy Scott; glitter-heavy eyelids Ă la Halpern; a simpler, subtle glitter touch as seen at Simone Rocha; or bejewelled eyes and lips like those Pat McGrath created for Valentino, thereâ€™s really only one rule for this trend: have fun and be sure to sparkle.
By Ash Jayy Simmons-Black
Thereâ€™s such a diverse range of short hairstyles to experiment with today, itâ€™s time short hair took its rightful place alongside long in the mainstream.
Back in the 15th century, Joan of Arc lead a French army to victory in the besieged town of Orléans. She did this with her hair styled in a bob, so that she mimicked her fellow soldiers in appearance. Decades later, Parisian hairstylist Monsieur Antoine gave his clients the same bob, citing his inspiration as ‘Saint Jean’. From the bob, to the pixie cut, short hairstyles have never quite made it into mainstream fashion in the way long styles have. They have instead become synonymous with feminism and girl power. They first began to gain popularity in western culture during the First World War, when both women working as nurses out on the battlefields, and those women who stayed home to work in factories and on farms, cut their hair to make it less hassle and more hygienic. After the end of the war, the bob was adapted as the go-to haircut of flapper girls as they began to push the boundaries of what was acceptable behaviour for women of the time. The bob became symbolic of women taking back their freedom. In 1940, after divorcing her husband Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo painted self-portrait with short hair in which she is pictured in a suit sat on a chair surrounded by hair. The portrait feels extremely powerful. There has been many powerful women who have adapted short hairstyles as part of their look, from Coco Chanel and Anna Wintour with their iconic bobs, to Twiggy’s famous pixie cut, and Audrey Hepburn’s crop in Roman Holiday. When Vidal Sassoon cut Mia Farrows hair for her role in Rosemary’s Baby, he unwittingly made history. The choppy pixie cut became part of Mia’s signature style, emphasising her eyes and exquisite bone structure. In more modern mainstream we’ve had Linda Evangelista the 90s supermodel who rocked a tiny red bob, Jennifer Aniston’s ‘friends’ haircut, Zoë Kravitz’ sleek chop, and Emma González, the activist and school-shooting survivor that shot to fame in 2018, and wears her hair almost completely shaved. A style that is gaining significant popularity. There’s such a diverse range of short hairstyles to experiment with today, it’s time short hair took its rightful place alongside long in the mainstream. Are you ready to take the chop? A.J
Mia Farrow @ Vidal Sassoon
Joan of Arc
Voirâ€™s 23 best short and colourful hair looks from the SS19 runways.
Captured by Simi Sahota
Voir Fashion Magazine - for those daring to be different. Voir is an online publication issued on a quarterly basis. Issue 23 Daring To Be Different was fashioned by: Jyoti Matoo Editor-In-Chief / Stylist firstname.lastname@example.org Luke Walwyn Art Director/Photographer email@example.com Kymberley Jefferson : Head Hair Stylist Abbie May MUA Felix Laurens Brand Liaison firstname.lastname@example.org WRITERS, ARTISTS & CREATIVES Hannah Oulton Giorgio Grande Nancy Callagher Harsimran Sahota Sachin Gogna Anna Hutchence Holly Lamb Brooke Kelsall Ash Jayy Simmons-Black Min Luu Alice Kelly Zoe Ayasha Sophie Howland Anna Doherty Eden Charkani Special Thank You to the following: Gurks Dhillon Daniel Gobana Toby Shaw Marianne Tupelo For creative submissions email@example.com firstname.lastname@example.org For collaborations and advertising opportunities: email@example.com For general enquiries firstname.lastname@example.org For beauty enquiries email@example.com