Wonn magazine 16 - Emily Cuthbert

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Contents Spring Fashion Summer Fashion Autumn Fashion Winter Fashion White Roses Lilies Vintage Fashion Vintage vs. Grunge About the Designer Closing Credits

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Spring The nostalgic nineties may of suede and fringe and as have transfixed us for the past well, with everyone from Etro seasons, to Proenza but come “Let’s S c h ouler hear it for S p r i n g bellbottoms, sexy silks embracing a 2 0 1 6 , and peasant blouses” bit of swing. fashion’s Elsewhere, got an all-new decade designers jumped two of choice. Let’s hear it for decades prior, with the 1950s bellbottoms, sexy silks and staple gingham popping peasant blouses because up on shirtdresses at the seventies are back. And Altuzurra and Michael Kors. while disco may be the first image that comes to mind And while fabric play was when thinking ‘70s style, this a big Spring fashion 2015 season’s diverse runways moment, silhouettes were highlight the decade’s many also up for experimentation, forms. At Saint Laurent, it was with culottes, a street style all about glam rock, with short favourite, reigning supreme. shorts worn alongside leather jackets, while at Valentino, it On the runway, relaxed calfwas flowing peasant dresses. grazers were paired with tailored tops and waistThe decade’s prevalence defining details, which were shone through with the use seen across the board.

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Bright florals to fit the theme of spring blossoms

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Spring Florals

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hese are definitely a springtime given.

of bloom-smothered prints staring back at you from the rails.

They come out for weddings, they come out for the races, they are the go-to print, the signifier that the season has finally changed - but they can get stuck in a rut.

So

shake

it

up!

You don’t want to be rehashing last year’s foliaged fashion and simply wearing florals again. Take them out of the traditional “pretty” and “occasiononly” boxes and put them in one with a little more attitude and verve instead.

It’s all too easy to pull out the same petal-strewn dress time and time again or see the same genre

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Summer Had someone told Cristobal Balenciaga that 78 years after he opened his namesake couture house, models would be strutting down the runway to Biggie Smalls, I’m not quite sure he would have believed them.

collection certainly veered more toward femininity than the others, it also nodded whole-heartedly at the place Wang will now be focusing 100% of his time and energy: back in New York at his exceptionally hot brand.

But that was For his finale, off-white Wang took the the reality of “Entirely of soft silks, house’s sense Friday evening’s selection cottons, and linens” of girliness and s p r i n g / summer 2016 truly made it his show — the last for Alexander own: through a 36-piece, entirely offWang, who was hand-picked to white selection of soft silks, cottons, helm the brand just three years ago. and linens that resembled — in the simplest of terms — really luxe The past few seasons for Wang sleepwear. It was lingerie dressing, the at Balenciaga were successful — Wang way — pairing loose camisoles particularly in terms of sales — but and undershirts with wide-leggged they weren’t groundbreaking. Each cargo pants; adding utilitarian details collection, though maintaining the to the most delicate of slip dresses. label’s delicate-yet-modern aesthetic, featured tons of hints and notes of What was basically said? The Wang his own eponymous downtown-cool girl can always look good — even when label. And while the most recent she doesn’t get dressed in the morning.

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Summer Florals

F

orget garden-variety prints; this season’s florals burst into 3D life, taking shape via embroidery and embellishment at Dolce & Gabbana, Simone Rocha, Moschino and alltime floral favourite, Erdem.

“Flowers grew everywhere throughout the collections, becoming the ultimate badge of spring/summer femininity. Think Sixties style daisies, meadow

poppies and luscious roses,” explains Jessica Bumpus, Vogue.co.uk fashion features editor.

Choose Chanel and Giambattista Valli for the most elegant summer soirees, where accessorising with a court shoe and a clutch will suffice, or go for full Sixties flower-power styled with a beehive hairstyle, retro sunglasses.

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Vivid floral designs to work well with the summer theme

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Autumn Striped tees are forever chic, and this season they looked extra on-trend paired with high-waist jean shorts Invite them into your fall style mix by adding cozy tights, ankle boots, and a graphic jewel-toned scarf.

Loose-fitting, graphic harem pants are so right-now. For fall, swap the top and shades for warmer pieces.

glasses and prim blouses on a 1970s north-of-England budget while Anderson was still in short trousers.

Fashion and culture seem bizarrely convinced that the thicker your knit, the sharper your brain, with Aran jumpers and cable knits used as shorthand for authenticity and intelligence.

The fashion industry has decreed Ben Whishaw’s stripy woollen that Wes jumper, worn Anderson’s “This is an easy one to as brainiac Q most stylish recreate on the high street, in upcoming character, James Bond particularly from October,” film Spectre.

M a r g o t Te n e n b a u m , is this season’s muse; her shabby fur This is an easy one to recreate coats and grubby eyeliner exactly on the high street, particularly what the industry wants to achieve from October, when lovely knits right now. We don’t disagree, take centre stage in the muchbut we think the much-missed anticipated collaboration between Deirdre Barlow is an even more former Hermès creative director apt inspiration: she did oversized Christophe Lemaire and Uniqlo.

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Stylish blossoms to

autumnal fit this theme

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AuTumn Florals

G

ive your wardrobe some petal power this autumn, it’s in season!

Floral print has come of age. Jil Sander, Erdem and Givenchy all gave flowers a moody make-over, sending sulky snowdrops and morose marigolds down their catwalks.

Think rich, hues against washes of

murky painterly colour.

While florals look great on expensive silk, velvet or satin, High Street stores Topshop, River Island and Debenhams are all championing the look too, so you don’t have to spend a packet.

Match the print with a slick pony tail or sharp bun for extra attitude.

Clashing prints are also big news this autumn, so team with loud prints.

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Winter As technology continues to rapidly progress, the fashion industry is consistently forced to find new ways to keep up with the times.

Whether that means disrupting the decades-old show schedule, incorporating various social media platforms into a presentation, or offering consumers the potential to purchase clothing fresh off the runway, innovation isn’t just a component of design — it’s a part of it.

that sat over the models’ eyes, it was the specific fabrics used that spoke to that forward-looking vision in the most literal sense.

Let’s look at not one but two very solid and supermodel-approved reasons you need a midi- or maxi-length wool coat this season. Not only will the streamlined, below-the-knee topper keep you warm and toasty through the polar vortex part deux, but it will also elevate your favorite jeans-and-sweater outfit and give you ultra-chic coverage over a dress.

Experimenting with new aesthetic concepts means messing with Add a pair of ‘90s-inspired laceunexpected textiles — and that’s up combat boots to your anklesomething that Japanese brand boot arsenal. You’d be surprised! A Anrealage does best. Though the stacked-heel bootie still keeps the offerings from designer Kunihiko rugged, tough feel of the silhouette Morinaga’s but gives winter 2016 “Add a pair of ‘90s-inspired you more c o l l e c t i o n lace-up combat boots to v e r s a t i l i t y were, as your ankle-boot arsenal.” to wear a whole, with jeans, futuristic — highly-sculptural tapered trousers, a flippy printed silhouettes, millinery-style helmets dress, or winter shorts and tights.

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Winter Florals

W

e’re embracing a more cold-weatherappropriate take on the trend, and sporting flowerprint shirts, dresses and jackets before the first bloom has even reared its head.

Pair pretty, feminine blouses from Warehouse and H&M with leather skinnies and stilettos for a glam evening look, or sport Zara’s fun twist on this season’s favourite jacket, the bomber, with

a white shirt and jeans to give your weekend style a bit of an edge.

Some fashion girls are pairing pretty petals and pastel colours with heavy winter fabrics, while others are clashing moody blooms with traditionally wintry prints like gingham and plaid.

Either direction is equally cool, and there are dozens more ways to wear florals.

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Cool, neutral tones with a dash of colour to connote winter

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‘‘

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NATURE NEVER DID BETRAY THE HEART THAT LOVED HER

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whiteroses

When it comes to roses, there is a rainbow of available colours, each of which possesses a very particular meaning. White roses have a special significance.

Without vibrant it, the formal, of the rose is best advantage elegant white

colour to upstage expresses hope for the future. structural beauty Historically, the white rose showcased to its symbolized innocence and purity, in a bouquet of which is how it became associated roses. with weddings and bridal “ a s s o c i a t i o n s bouquets. The white rose Suited to reverent with both purity was the heraldic sign of and love� occasions, the white rose the Duke of York who is a fitting way to honour a friend or loved one in recognition of a new beginning or a farewell.

faced off with the redrose Lancaster family, giving the renowned War of Roses its name.

Their pure colour conveys respect, pays homage to new starts and

Today, the white rose has retained its associations with both purity and love.

to new starts and expresses hope for the future

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white roses

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If there is such a thing as foolproof flowers, lilies must be at the top of the list

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dd their beauty, large size, and sometimes even fragrance to their ease of culture and you have a winner every time.

The stars of the garden right now are the Asiatic lilies. If you judge a lily by the amount of colour it provides per square foot, or the ratio of flower to foliage, Asiatic lilies come out at the top in the book. No other flower provides such a burst of color, such a striking display of huge, long-lasting blooms.

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THE MODern

Vintage

Vintage florals in

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Fashion

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At surface level, the obsession with vintage clothing among young people may be baffling. In an age when newer is better in most industries, that many people are choosing to wear blatantly outdated apparel seems counterintuitive. Etsy

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I’d rather wear flowers in my hair, than diamonds around my neck This living form of art holds power – power to control a part of one’s image.

to eBay to the fastgrowing vintage retailers, it’s hard not to notice that older styles have made comebacks in recent years. The wave of vintage-wearers over the past two decades proves that newer isn’t necessarily more desirable.

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Vintage

vs G runge

Vintage, not to be confused with grunge (oversized sweaters and flannel shirts) brings us back a few decades further. The term vintage usually refers to garments from or inspired by “The term vintage usually refers to garments from or inspired by the 1920s,�

the 1920s, although people do use it to describe anything old — up through the 1980s. Grunge refers to 90s trends, but there are commonalities between vintage and grunge. Both styles can be found at secondhand shops, the grunge at more economical prices, for obvious reasons.

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NATURE IS NEVER MERELY DIVIDED D INTO BLACK ACK AND WHITE

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anatomy of a DISASTER about the designer

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Emily Cuthbert

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t the age of eighteen, Emily Cuthbert is currently studying a BTEC Graphic Design course at Cambridge Regional College; with hopes to achieve a successful career within this sector.

She has a unique eye for composition and layouts.

Specialising within the area of drawing and designing, she has high hopes of joining the Graphic Design industry of advertising and marketing.

Competent with a range of digital software packages such as Adobe Photoshop, Adobe InDesign, Paint Tool Sai and GNU Image Manipulation Program,

Her skills include both traditional and digital means of design; at home with both a pencil and digital drawing tablet.

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her inspiration draws upon her love of books and reading; as both words and pictures alike can evoke a hidden meaning; something to search for within the texts and designs.

She often likes to implement that into her designs to give them an edge.

Emily Cuthbert is definitely one to watch in the next few years within this sector.

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wonn issue #1

florals within nature 36