Warsaw Insider #181 September 2011

26

Listing Updates

page 29

3

Top Staff PIcks

page 1

23

Treasures of Warsaw

page 11

The Welcome to Warsaw Issue

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

price zł.10

(VAT 8% included)

to our readers

SEPTEMBER 2011

Refriending

W

hile Facebook’s verbification of ‘friend’ is certainly being overworked these days, I recently enjoyed an article about real life de-friending - that naturally occurring, slow sloughing off of friends we’ve outgrown. De-friending can also be wrenching when it comes to expatriate friends moving away to the next assignment.

The purely irrational, ‘why are they leaving me?’ can raise its ugly head, leaving those of us left to turn out the lights, feeling empty and alone. That said, the new bumper crop of Autumn expatriates has arrived.

So rejoice! It is re-friending time.

David Pollock coined the term Third Culture Kids a decade ago. He studied the impact of children being raised by globetrotting corporate, diplomatic and military families and determined that with the proliferation of globalization and modern technology, these children were not just heading back to their native lands and being re-absorbed. Rather, they were seeking out similar souls and continuing to build this culture above all other cultures, just like us, their parents.

So what does a Third Culture Adult look like? Where there is no particular common language or body style to unite us, we need to rely on shared traits. I think we are more inquisitive, more tolerant, less judgmental. But best of all, we are quick and easy to befriend.

We are very open, maybe because we are transient. We are not stuck with each other for very long, so we can be gutsy, expressive and vulnerable. We are developing a society that rises above geographical borders and sometimes we strike gold with life-long friends who’ll rendezvous regularly for shared holidays.

I suppose that in the back of the mind of every expat there is the knowledge that one day, generally in a June or July, in the not too distant future, all this will end. We all know that soon one of us will be leaving, so, what the hell, let’s have a good time while we are together.

Paula Rewald

editor@warsawinsider.pl

The Insider team’s top 3 Zuzanna Ziomecka Lives downtown. From Detroit, Michigan. In Warsaw ten years.

Kevin Demaria Lives in Śródmieście. From Brooklyn, NY. In Warsaw a year.

Agnieszka Jęksa Lives in Żoliborz. From Warsaw, Poland. In Warsaw from the start.

Alex Webber Lives in Muranów. From Bristol, England. In Warsaw eleven years.

1

1

1

1

2

2

3

3

ul. Filtrowa A lush green street of pre-war villas, and one of those secret places that shows Warsaw’s cozy side.

Efes Kebab, ul. Francuska 1 Real lamb on authentic lawasz pitas. Check the sidewalk portraits maintained by the local passport photographer - they show the often comical and real face of the neighborhood.

Red Onion Concept Store One of the first designer home decoration stores in the city and remains a leader in finding fresh concepts.

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

2 3

Spotkanie ze Szpegiem I love this place because of the great beer selection and really friendly owners who will indulge your rambling English.

My Bike I love riding around Warsaw to keep discovering the city (even the bike paths stop and start and make you cross over streets for no reason whatsoever).

Book Off My favorite splurge in Warsaw is this small bookstore in Wola - it has the best selection of photography books in town.

Czuły Barbarzyńca The first arty coffee shop & bookstore in Warsaw… and still the best one.

“Cukiernia” Dickensa 17a A retro confectioners that hasn’t changed for 40 years, I bet. Lovely Pani Wandzia spoils me with her melt-in-the-mouth cheese pastry and home-made raspberry ice-cream.

Warsaw Film Festival An authentic celebration of international and Polish cinema.

I love the sense of festivity and the after-screening meetings.

ul. Chłodna A microcosm of Warsaw; stained and seedy in parts, all glitter and gold in others. This is what Warsaw’s all about.

Tram rides Chillout on Monday night by brainlessly zapping round sections of Warsaw that will never be ‘guidebooked’.

Crossroads of Wilcza and Poznańska On the one side, Tortilla Factory, a gathering point to watch football with the lads. On the other, Kwadrat, the home of the best beer in Poland.

2 3

www.warsawinsider.pl

1

what’s inside:

SEPTEMBER 2011

11

LISTINGS

Arts and Entertainment

Eating Out

COLUMNS

Going Out

11 Warsaw Inside Out We turn the city upside down to find 23 of the best hidden treasures and secret stories.

01 The Editor Speaks Opening words from the editor-at-large, and top three picks from the Insider team.

Till You Drop

20 Polish Made Possible Coming to grips with the impossible tongue – where to do it, and how...

04 Why Warsaw?

Musician and producer Brian Allan ponders the future of music in Poland.

Lifestyle

22 Relics of the PRL A look at Warsaw’s Communist remnants and relics.

28 Behind the Kitchen Doors Luca and Lorenzo from Delizia spill the beans about the restaurant biz.

24 A Fine Line Hop on the Bus #180 and see the very best Warsaw has to give...

80 Shortcuts to Poland Excerpt from Laura Klos Sokol’s best selling book: Shortcuts to Poland

05 Insider’s Pick Warsaw Autumn Festival 06 Calendar Music, Art, and happenings going on around town 08 Screening Room Upcoming Movies 06 Museums Top cultural institutions in Warsaw

29 Insider’s Pick Nowa Kużnia 32 Hot Find Bombaj Masala 40 The Luncheonettes The Boathouse 55 Top Shop Fish & Chips

FEATURES

Editor-at-Large

Senior Editor

Managing Editor

Editor

Art Director

Publisher Staff Photographer Advertising Manager Distribution Manager

Paula Rewald prewald@valkea.com Zuza Ziomecka zziomecka@valkea.com Alex Webber Agnieszka Jęksa ajeksa@valkea.com Kevin Demaria Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Bartosz Bajerski bbajerski@valkea.com Karol Kosiorek kkosiorek@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Kit F. Chung David Ingham Anna J. Kutor Laura Klos Sokol Agnieszka Le Nart Marysia Mastalerz The Mayor

57 Insider’s Pick De Lite 63 Insider’s Pick Mokobelle 67

70

78

79

Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed with amichalik@valkea.com, tel. 22 678 9912

Insider’s Pick Vertebralia Hot Find Oasis Massage & Spa Warsaw Map and Street Index Classifieds

Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS tel. 022 783-6000

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2011 Warsaw Insider.

2

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

37 Łowicka St., Warsaw • Tel. 22 224 54 54, 22 423 44 40 www.valadier.pl • e-mail: restauracja@valadier.pl

WHY WARSAW?

MUSIC FOR THE MASSES

Co-founder of the Rokket Music label, and the driving force behind the Poland... Why Not project, Scotsman Brian Allan tells us the inside scoop on the music scene in Warsaw and beyond.

What’s your assessment of the music scene in Poland?

It’s deteriorated hugely in the past ten years, and I blame a lot on piracy.

Record companies aren’t investing in people, they’re not taking the risk.

But that’s not just Poland’s problem, it’s a global one. It’s rare to see someone getting signed on the strength of a demo tape, companies want the finished article, and that’s not going to change until CD sales take off once more. I can’t say this enough, if you like a band, buy their stuff. There’s other problems as well; too many bad managers screwing people over, and too many cheesy reality shows.

A lot of bad news then, so how are you changing this?

I call us the bravest little company in the world. We’re not just trying to change the business model of record companies here, but also the song writing style. Poland has

4

a humble, submissive culture, and that’s reflected by the number of sad, melancholic songs. We want to create an upbeat style, happy choruses.

Stuff that people want to listen to.

Given a bottomless budget what sort of vid would you shoot?

Ha, I’d take my friend Ewa to Hawaii and re-enact Chris Isaac’s Wicked Game. But seriously, a bottomless budget isn’t significant. My dream would be to make a video that’s remembered twenty years down the line for being cool. Something that really told a story.

What are the most important qualities you look for in someone you’re signing?

A distinctive voice. It doesn’t have to be technically brilliant, just distinctive and original – Elvis, Cash, Dylan, none of them had perfect voices, but they were totally distinctive. Once you’ve got that right, you need a hit song...

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

You’ve got a load of visiting big shot record execs in town for the weekend, what’s in store for them after your work is done?

It depends which night of the week really, I mean on Wednesday night Enklawa club is a must. I think the best Polish food you’ll find is in U Kucharzy, so we’d start there, then maybe that myriad of small little bars on Nowy Świat. I’d go to Sheesha and order the house specialty, vodka mixed with raspberry and lemon juice, and maybe onto places like Sketch and Paparazzi. Sense is definitely worth the trip, the hospitality of Ray the owner is something else, while you’ll usually find good live music in Warsaw Tortilla Factory. As for clubs, it’s a pick between The Eve, Opera and Platinium.

What are your favorite music venues in Poland?

My bedroom? I think SPE in the Sheraton is good, but to be honest Poland really doesn’t have many good venues. There’s no structure, and no help from the government. Art is important, artists inspire others, yet every time I hear the government talk about art they talk about Chopin – the last time I checked he was dead! They need to look to the future. They’re just not harvesting the crop.

Where do you see Poland... Why Not in ten years time?

Ten years? Hopefully this time next year we’d have had an impact on the American charts. With our sponsor Esotiq, producer of exclusive lingerie, we’ve just sent Patricia and Natasza to L.A. to shoot videos for the album out in October, and that is just the beginning. We’re confident we’re doing things in the right manner.

Haha, who knows, following our astronomical success they may replace the statue of Charles de’Gaulle with one of me – a man who really did something for this country!

Hailing from Fife, Scotland, musician Brian Allan arrived in Poland seven years ago, and has since made his mission the discovery of Poland’s first global music star. With the likes of Patricia Kazadi and Natasza Urbańska on his books, it appears there’s more to the co-founder of Rokket than just empty words.

PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAŁ OZDOBA

Current issue: 01-30 September 2011 www.warsawinsider.pl

ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENT Museums, Galleries, Concerts & Events

Insider’s Pick

September 16th-24th

Above Ensemble Nikel’s performance - Warsaw Autumn in 2010

Festival 54th Warsaw Autumn International Festival of Contemporary Music different locations across Warsaw, www.warszawska-jesien.art.pl

T

he ‘Warsaw Autumn’ (Warszawska Jesień) is the only festival of contemporary classical music in Poland not just held on a truly ‘international scale’ but also featuring international stars. It has a long history, a grand tradition and origins that trace back to 1956.

The festival has developed in recent years, with organizers keen to think outside of the box. Traditions have been abandoned and nowadays you’ll find performances held in old factories, sports halls, clubs etc. Venues of note this year include Soho Factory, Fabryka Trzciny and, as always, the National Philharmonic. As for the music

itself, don’t expect standard classics, but rather music with electro/ acoustic undercurrents.

Free from rampant commercialism, this year’s festival focuses on socially and politically active composers. On the agenda, amongst others, are Soprano Pia Freund and the Plus Ensemble, The Neue Vocalisten, Zorka Wollny with Artur Zagajewski and many more.

Accompanying the music will be installations, videos and other forms of multimedia.

This year’s event will also include the premiere of “Little Warsaw Autumn” – a music fest specifically aimed for the young. To achieve this, concerts, workshops and interactive installations are all in the pipeline to allow younger members of the audienc the chance to play and create music. Tickets from zł. 5-50. (AJ)

www.warsawinsider.pl

5

>>

1 THU

8 THU

Festival

Congress

Przemiany Festival Copernicus Center, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20 (plus misc. locations in Powiśle and Praga), www.przemianywisly.pl The first event principally organized by the Copernicus Center aims to highlight the undiscovered glories of the Wisła. Included will be electronic sounds courtesy of artists from Finland, Chile, USA, documentaries, photography workshops, cycle tours, and even a molecular food tasting session.

Highlights include a ‘Special Day’ in the Planetarium (Sept.

3) where visitors will be able to view the sky above Warsaw, black holes and more. Free entrance, though registration for workshops is required. Runs until the 4th.

European Culture Congress different locations, Wrocław, www.culturecongress.eu The congress is the central event in the cultural program running in conjunction with Poland’s Presidency of the EU. To celebrate this four days and nights of lectures, installations, exhibitions and performances are planned. Highlights include a concert by Krzysztof Penderecki with Aphex Twin and the chance to meet former Czech premier and playwright Václav Havel. Runs until September 11th.

6

11 SUN Festival The 9th Sacrum Profanum Festival Kraków www.sacrumprofanum.com The 2011 edition of this cult festival will be based on four themes: “Modern Classic”, presenting the music of Steve Reich and friends (John Adams, Terry Riley, David Lang, Julia Wolf and Michael Gordon); “Made in Poland – Miłosz Sounds”,

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

featuring new works by five upcoming Polish composers (Paweł Mykietyn, Agata Zubel, Jagoda Szmytka, Aleksandra Gryka and Wojciech Ziemowit Zych); “Debuts” dedicated to young emerging bands (inc.

Amadrums); and “Freak”. Runs until the 17th.

12 MON

Vitaly Podolsky, known for his eccentric mixture of jazz, rock, Ukrainian and Jewish music.

Among the many genres represented will be klezmer (Mamina Deti) as well as more alternative sounds (Deriglasoff Band, Łąki Łan or Czesław Śpiewa). Concerts will be accompanied by dance workshops for kids and their parents, discussions and films.

Runs until September 24th.

Concert Bryan Ferry Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl No introductions needed for Bryan Ferry. This veteran of the Roxy Music band has been going since 1973, evolving to become one of the most iconic and innovative singers around.

Ferry arrives in Warsaw having cancelled his tour earlier in the year due to ill health.

13 TUE Festival Łódź of Four Cultures (Łódź Czterech Kultur) different locations in Łódź, www.4kultury.pl This interdisciplinary festival kicks off with a performance by Israeli

Concert Chris de Burgh Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl For the fifth time Irish singer/ songwriter Chris de Burgh hits Poland. Famous for ditties like “Lady in Red” and “High on Emotion” de Burgh arrives as part of his Moonfleet Tour to promote the album “Moonfleet & Other Stories.” Tickets from zł. 130.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE; LEFT, COURTESY OF PRZEMIANY FESTIVAL, RIGHT COURTESY OF 4 CULTURES FESTIVAL OPPOSITE PAGE; TOP BY EWA KRASUCKA, BOTTOM BY BERND OTT

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

EVENT CALENDAR 17 SAT

25 SUN

Concert

Marathon

George Michael Wrocław, Pilczyce Stadium, www.georgemichael.com Former Wham man George Michael is set to raise the curtain at the new Pilczyce stadium.

Over 28,000 fans are expected to see the Brit perform alongside the Wrocław Philharmonic.

Tickets from zł. 79 to zł. 399.

33rd Warsaw Marathon Starts at 9.00 on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście (close to Skwer Hoovera), www.maratonwarszawski.com Now in its 33rd year, the Warsaw Marathon starts at 9am sharp with the 40km course taking runners through the heart of the city.

Registration costs zł. 150 with forms already available online.

For conditions, course info and further facts and figures check their English language website.

24 SAT Festival Wine & Food Noble Night & Open Family Day Tor Wyścigów Konnych Służewiec, ul. Puławska 266, tel. 22 518 2358, www.openfamilyday.pl A must be for all would be foodies. Good news for the mummies: the second day – Open Family Day – is dedicated to children. Included in the program: kids menu, sculpture, cooking workshops and theatre. For daddies: 300 wines from 38 vineyards, inc. those from South Africa, New Zealand and Uruguay to name but a few…

MEDIA PATRONAGE 12 MONDAY Dance 3rd Days of Dance Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 692 0200, www.teatrwielki.pl.

This upcoming ballet festival at the Teatr Wielki will involve six companies from France, The Netherlands, Germany, Poland and Japan. Presented will be a diverse repertoire in a programme consisting of mainly contemporary choreographic works by names such as Pina Bausch, Jiří Kylián and Krzysztof Pastor.

Of course, the undoubted highlight however will be the visit of the Wuppertal Tanztheater; they will present works by the late Pina Bausch, the father of dance theatre. Tickets from zł. 38.

Runs till September 28th.

29 THU

25 SUNDAY

Festival

Cross Culture Festival Palace of Culture and Science, Pl. Defilad 1, www.estrada.com.pl

Les Titans Crazy Days of Warsaw (Les Titans La Folle Journée de Varsovie) Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 692 0200, www.szalonednimuzyki.pl Originally created in Nantes, Les Titans aims to bring classical music to the people.

No evening dress required, with concerts priced at a symbolic zł. 5/7/10. Runs until October 2nd.

Festival

Over 130 individual artists from over 48 countries have appeared at the festival to date, and that number is set to rise further this year with the onus being on both European and African music.

The inauguration event will see Femi Kuti of Nigeria perform in Sala Kongresowa. Joining them over the course of the festival will be artists from Spain, Portugal, Scandinavia, Greece and Poland, as well as special guests from Turkey and Israel. Tickets: zł. 25 for each concert, and zł. 30/50/70zł for Femi Kuti. Six-day passes are available from zł. 100. Runs until October 1st.

Tel: +48 22 702 10 72

www.warsawinsider.pl

7

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT screening room

opening this month:

2nd september 4 Film ‘Re-Premiere’ Mania. The History of a Cigarette Factory Worker Filharmonia Naradowa, ul. Jasna 5.

One of the great silent films of all time is set to ‘re-premiere’ in Warsaw as part of Poland’s celebrations marking her EU Presidency. “Mania. The History of a Cigarette Factory Worker,” has been digitally remastered using the most sophisticated techniques available, and will be complimented by a custom-written score composed by Jerzy Maksymiuk, and performed by the Wrocław Chamber Orchestra. Starring the original femme fatale, Polish-born screen siren Pola Negri, it promises, “a dramatic plot concerning the relationship between man and art.”

Mania (Negri), is a cigarette worker picked out to star in a poster.

Morelli, a rich art patron, is infatuated with her, though she has eyes only for Hans, an impoverished composer; cue blackmail, jealousy and intrigue. Directed by Hungarian Eugen Illes, Mania (1918) had been widely considered something of a lost classic; purchased from a Czech collector by Filmoteka Naradowa in 2006, work has been ongoing ever since to ‘restore the film back to life.’ Following years of painstaking effort, September 4 marks the long-awaited Warsaw debut of Mania. Later, the film will be taken on tour for screenings in Paris, Madrid, London, Kiev and Berlin.

For more details, check: www.nitrofilm.pl.

Crazy, stupid love (Kocha, lubi, szanuje) Comedy. USA. Dir. Glenn Ficarra, John Requa, with Steve Carell, Julianne Moore, Ryan Gosling Cal Weaver (Carell) – a perfect family man – discovers that his wife (Moore) is cheating. He decides to move on and enter the world of dates, guided by a connoisseur in the subject.

16th Johny English Reborn Comedy. UK, Japan, Israel, France. Dir. Oliver Parker, with Rowan Atkinson, Dominic West This time the pesky English (Atkinson) deals with traitors in the midst of Her Majesty...

Drive Action. USA. Dir. Nicolas Winding Refn, with Ryan Gosling, Carey Mulligan, Ron Perlman A Hollywood stunt performer (Gosling) suddenly discovers a contract has been put on him after a heist goes wrong. Eek!

23th Give us a call or email us:

MASSAGE & BEAUTY TREATMENTS DAY SPA WE TAKE CARE OF YOUR BODY Take a break in the heart of the city relax in an oriental atmosphere

8

tel. +48 (0) 22 435 9336

kontakt@ oasisspa.pl www.oasisspa.pl Królewska 2 st. (corner of Krakowskie, near Bristol Hotel) Open: Mon-Sat 10.00- 21.00

10% DisCOUnT WiTh This AD

Shelter (Inkarnacja) Horror. USA. Dir. Bjorn Stein, Mans Marlind, with Julianne Moore and Jonathan Rhys Meyers Cara Jessup (Moore) treats an atypical patient (Meyers) who undermines all her scientific theories. Then, the mysterious

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

death of her father triggers a chain of terrifying events.

The Flying Machine 3D (Latająca maszyna Chopina 3D) Animation, fantasy. UK, Poland, Canada. Dir. Martin Clapp, Geoff Lindsey, with Heather Graham and Jamie Munns.

A magical piano found by two kids takes them on an adventurous journey across Europe...

Abduction (Porwanie) Thriller, action. USA. Dir. John Singleton, with Taylor Lautner and Sigourney Weaver A boy finds his picture on a missing persons poster, and determines to find who he really is – at any price.

30th The Debt (Dług) Thriller. USA. Dir. John Madden, with Helen Mirren and Jessica Chastain This espionage thriller begins in 1997, as shocking news reaches a trio of retired Mossad agents.

Was their mission to track a Nazi war criminal in 1966 as succesful as they believed?

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: NITROFILM, WARNER BROS, ENTERTAINMENT DISTRIBUTION, UNIVERSAL PICTURES

>>

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Chopin Museum (Chopin’s Personality Room) Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, www.kopernik.org.pl If you thought the Chopin Museum was space age then just wait till you visit this place.

Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recycable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. Galeria BZZZ, designed for children aged up to six, is a must for families, and now also open is ‘The Heavens of Copernicus’, a state-of-the-art planetarium.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world, and at times remarkable events: eg. the Festival of Modern Dance. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. One of the exhibitions is currently hogging the limelight: Laboratory of the Future - Act 1 REGRESS PROGRESS: On show: works

by Paweł Althamer, Aleksandra Wasilkowska, Cai Guo-Qiang, Simon Leung, raumlaborberlin and exhibitions: Where is the green rabbit?, Landscape of the future and Performing Architecture.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, www.chopin.museum

Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to peronalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them his pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com One for the lads. Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight).

Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26 What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Of interest, a brilliant interactive display of wartime Warsaw.

Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16 With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest

Regress Progress at CSW (Elodie Pong EndlessEnds, 2009) poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol.

The State Ethnographic Museum in Warsaw ul. Kredytowa 1, www.ethnomuseum.website.pl Established in 1888 the 76,000 strong collection here is not the dull ensemble you may anticipate: just check the utterly bizarre straw costumes for proof.

Polish folk costume, glassware, paintings and even Easter eggs feature prominently, but so do other countries. Permanent exhibits have also been granted to Africa, Australia and Oceania and ‘Asian Magical Weapons’.

A wacky place, and one about to reap the benefit of a serious cash injection courtesy of the EU. Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, www.muzeum-techniki.waw.pl The very opposite of the new-fangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine.

Strangely brilliant.

Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl

Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Uprising. Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw.

Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk.

Zachęta National Art Gallery pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl One of the most famed galleries in the country, with a plethora of international and Polish modern art to peruse. Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera.

NEED TO KNOW Museum hours (and prices) change way too often for our liking, so check individual websites for the latest story.

Note that most will choose Monday to close, and that many hold ‘visitor days’ once a week whereby admission prices are waived.

www.warsawinsider.pl

9

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

Insider knowledge comes with years of experience, usually. This issue, to aid the influx of new arrivals, we've devised a top secret cheat sheet about everything Warsaw: kinkiest quirks, unsung treasures and hidden gems. Commit it to memory and you too can bowl about like an Insider within minutes of your stay. BY ALEX WEBBER & KIT F. CHUNG

www.warsawinsider.pl

11

WATERWORKS

The new multimedia fountain park is sandwiched between the lower slopes of the Old Town and the river.

The location is not accidental but a conscious choice to draw more feet towards the riverbank. In the weeks after it made its debut last May, we couldn’t even get near it during the weekly Friday and Saturday evenings light-and-music show. The specs are impressive: over 350 nozzles with firepower to launch water high up into the air in choreographed moves, and nearly 300 LED lights to lend colors and visual effects. Short films and video clips are projected onto a wall of water, all with synchronized audio backup. That said, it’s not clear if such weekend public entertainment is going to continue into autumn, so keep your fingers crossed. During the day, it’s a quiet spot for kids and family to get their digits wet. Just the hands, though. No jumping in.

You knew that, of course. To reach these fancy water sprays, either walk towards the river from ul. Mostowa or ul. Kościelna in the New Town.

You’ll find the fountain between ul.

Kościelna and ul. Boleść. Nearby, you’ll also see a statue of Lindley, the chap who built Warsaw’s less glamorous but equally essential water feature: the sewage system.

SHOTS AWAY

A night on the vodka: it’s just one of the great inevitabilities of moving to Poland. For the most part you’ll be drinking it chilled and straight, though there are some exceptions. Take for instance Żubrówka, a peerless vodka

12

Meta ul. Foksal 21 Przekąski Zakąski ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 Sense ul. Nowy Świat 19

THE POLISH

DOUGHNUT

Isn’t a pączek just a jelly doughnut?

Ask a question like that to a pączek snob and you could be subjected to a tongue-lashing about how much more superior the Polish version is.

Though pączki (plural of pączek) are not highbrow nosh, you can really win the hearts and minds of your local hosts by professing unbridled love for

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

these dowdily glazed calorie bombs.

Fat Thursday (Tłusty Czwartek), the last Thursday before Lent (usually in February or March), is celebrated with pączek over-load. During the rest of the year, the demand doesn’t relent judging by the constant queues outside Pawłowicz, a pokey setup where all the goodies are made onsite. They open at 9am and it’s not unusual that the sweets are sold out by 6pm. The family-run Pracownia Cukiernicza also makes its goods fresh and onsite. It’s located outside the centre, but if you’re here for the long haul, do check out this minimalistic (as in the style dating from the commie days) pączek-specialty store. Blikle’s, a family business run since 1869, is commonly believed to have the definitive pączki – Charles de Gaulle being one former fan. This café is also a must-do pit stop for every foodie visiting Warsaw.

Blikle’s ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619 Pawłowicz ul. Chmielna 13 Pracownia Cukiernicza ul. Górczewska 15, tel. 22 632 1918

CHOPIN

THE HEART OF THE MATTER

Getting your heart torn out and dispatched to your homeland sounds morbid these days. But back in the times when great composers were penning their masterpieces, it apparently wasn’t all that peculiar a dying wish. And thus, while Chopin was buried in the Pere-Lachaise cemetery in Paris, his heart has its final resting place in the Holy Cross Church in Warsaw, the city where he grew up in.

One unexpected discovery of visitors to Poland, even classical music fans, is that Chopin had Polish heritage.

While the virtuoso’s father was French, his mother was Polish and Frederyk was born outside Warsaw (in Żelazowa Wola). Had it not been for the outbreak of the November 1830 Uprising, he’d have returned to the Polish capital after a concert in Vienna. Despite his exile in France, his works were influenced by Polish motifs and he pined for Poland. So, it seems befitting that his heart should

ALL ILLUSTRATIONS BY MARYSIA MASTALERZ. PHOTOGRAPHS FROM LEFT: ANNA J. KUTOR, KEVIN DEMARIA, SHUTTERSTOCK

RIVERSIDE

from the east of Poland. Shipped in bottles containing a single blade of ‘bison’ grass, it’s best enjoyed with a nip of apple juice. Then there’s Wściekły Pies (Mad Dog), a nutty combo of vodka, tabasco and raspberry juice. You'll need only three to discover how it earned its name.

Sense purportedly has one of the largest selections of vodka in the country, and there’s a good chance you’ll get through them all if the owner Ray is about. Yet for the all singing, all dancing Polski experience consider taking shots in Meta, a box-like bar doused with communist relics. Even so, this place melts into insignificance when put head-to-head with Przekąski Zakąski. Open 24/7, PZ is a living cult, attracting all from glamour pusses balanced on skyscraper heels, to crusty old blokes with deodorant issues. Standing room only, it’s tradition to order an eight złoty bite from the bow-tied steward, before firing hell-for-leather into their four złoty shots. To see this place operating at its best, visit whenever you wobble out of the club. Ouch.

return to where, well, his heart was.

During the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, the Holy Cross Church was smashed up. The urn escaped unscathed in a hiding place. The last known probing of the urn is believed to be after the war in 1945. At that time, the heart was in good form, locked away in a crystal urn filled with what is reputed to be cognac.

As an aside, 2010 marked the 200th anniversary of Chopin’s birth, with Warsaw celebrating in style.

One party leftover are the benches along Krakowskie Przedmiesćie, each featuring a map of spots where the composer worked and played. Soak up more Chopin trivia and sounds at the revamped Chopin Museum.

THE

MERMAID

Since 1390, Warsaw’s coat of arms has had the Syrenka (Mermaid) on it.

Ever wondered why she’s brandishing a sword? And did you know she’s related to the one in Copenhagen?

There’s a legend to it… as always.

Mermaid One, as we know, went to Denmark. Her sister flipped her tail all the way to Gdańsk and ended up in Warsaw via the Wisła River. To cut a long legend short, she was locked up by a baddie who wanted her to sing for his meals. The savior, in the form of a fisherman’s son, heard her cries and freed her. In return, she vowed to defend his village (which is where her armory comes in). Most of us have our first encounter with the Syrenka statue in Old Town Square.

A second one, erected along the river in the Powiśle district, is modeled on poetess Krystyna Krahelska, who defended the capital during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. Unfortunately,

she was fatally wounded on day one of the insurgency, becoming one of the first casualties of the ill-fated rebellion. A third one, with a beguiling fantasy heroine looks, is found on Wiadukt Markiewicza, a windy street going down from ul.

Karowa (next to the Bristol Hotel).

Keep your eyes peeled and you’ll see this half-woman/half-fish featured all around you: on trams, buses, tickets, and more.

GARDEN CITY

Let’s face it, inner-city Warsaw looks like a mangled mess; a disorganized collection of clashing concrete and tooting cars. So how’s about this then, a secret housing project known as Osiedle Domków Fińskich.

Consisting of 28 (originally 200 plus) wooden chalets, it’s an amazing district, and not unlike stepping into some countryside village. Constructed in 1945 to house the architects and engineers involved in the rebuilding of Warsaw, these pre-built structures were imported direct from Finland and only meant as a temporary housing measure. That such as oasis of calm exists bang in the city defies expectation, and you won’t be the first to leave the area completely enchanted. So how about moving there? Good luck. The city own the properties, and even if you manage to find one available to rent then you may have to rethink; vibrations from the nearby highway are slowly eroding the soil, meaning this development is at very real risk.

Nonetheless, it looks gorgeous, and isn’t without its quirks. Entry to the complex is via ul. Lennona, so named after the Beatle in ’91. The story is thus: on the first anniversary of Lennon’s death, and with Martial Law just days away, Beatles fans marched down here smoking pot and singing “Give Peace a Chance,” before erecting an ad-libbed sign claiming this hitherto nameless street as ul.

Lennona. Ten years later, their action was given official approval. If you’ve got a pen handy, scrawl your respects to Lennon on the wall nearby.

CREATIVE PATHS Warsaw is a big city that feels a lot like a village, it's relatively peaceful and quiet - but it does get going once you want to switch into high gear. As an editor specializing in the Arts, I'm fascinated by the incredible impact the work of Polish artists is having all over the world. Bałka, Abakanowicz, Rajkowska, Sasnal - today these names are at the top tier of the art scene.

Warsaw is buzzing with artistic activity, with new galleries, cafes and NGOs opening all over the place, hosting a lot of great shows, concerts and parties. The hottest recent additions are the Kolonie Gallery on Bracka, and outdoor bars like Dolina Muminków, Plac Zabaw and, of course, Powiśle. These places are much more than watering holes for hipsters - these are the spots to see the most talented upcoming musicians and exchange ideas with other creative folk while having a tipple - or more...

AGNIESZKA LE NART (Editor, writer and girl about town) www.warsawinsider.pl

13

The first thing guys need to know out here is you don't need to read The Game.

By being foreign you've already got something different – the girls really are open to anyone, just as long as you don't look like a thug or act like a creep.

Use cafes during the day, they're far better environments – Vincent on Nowy Świat is like something out of Seinfeld. And never under-estimate the power of a map as a conversation starter. Pretend to be lost!

Each night of the week has its merits, but Enklawa on Wednesday is hard to beat.

Look vaguely good and reserve a table in advance and I guarantee you'll get into any club. But groups, beware – divide and conquer. Split up to get past the door.

THE MAYOR (Night owl and judge at Miss Bikini Poland 2011)

14

KEEP

HALA MIROWSKA

Hala Mirowska is Warsaw’s answer to London’s Borough Market. It hasn’t the glam factor of the famed English food hall, but a recent scrub means it’s bullet studded walls aren’t as grim as before. The original complex was constructed in 1899 and served as the largest market in Warsaw, selling mainly fish and veg. During WWII it suffered fire damage, and was rebuilt after to first serve as a bus depot before being returned to its trading duties. The distinctly commie-style extension to the façade was grafted on in the 1970’s. Beyond the walls the interiors are chockfull of fresh ingredients (veggies, fruits, eggs); ham, sausages and pickles like granny used to make; bread and cakes; brands not found in hypermarkets; lots of pork; and a handful of fishmongers with twice weekly deliveries from the Baltic Coast. The stalls are distributed behind the main building and along a new corridor on the side. At the far end, there is a Vietnamese store for Asian groceries.

The best time to shop is on Fridays and Saturdays when the majority of vendors are in business. Some of the shoppers show no respect for personal space by tailgating you in the queue; don’t worry, it’s part of the experience.

Hala Mirowska Pl. Mirowski 1

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

SLIM

You may not notice at first, but it’s not just its girls that Warsaw builds thin.

Nope, here’s a city that also slides its buildings into an extra slim corset.

Here’s the evidence: head to Kanonia 20 (that’s an old town address) and take a look right ahead. “That’s just a doorway,” you grumble. Actually, it’s a whole lot more. That, according to some, is the narrowest building in the world. “But why would someone build that?” Well, rather than being a record breaking attempt at Guinness glory, the reasoning has a whole lot of logic, and dates to a time when taxes were calculated according to the width of your house. A plaque nearby recalls how the original burned to the ground in 1607, a fate it’d repeat centuries later courtesy of Nazis & Co. But there’s more. Grabbing world headlines this summer were plans by a Polish design house to turn a 60 inch alleyway into a four floor residence. Found on Chłodna 22, the ‘house’ will stretch back forty feet, with a room on each floor. “I saw the gap and just thought it needed filling,” shrugs architect Jakub Szczęsny of the Centrala studio. While British author/historian Norman Davies is said to have rejected the opportunity to be the first resident, Israeli writer Etgar Keret has jumped at the chance and is set to move in on its completion in Feb. After he leaves, the building is slated to serve visiting artists and academics.

BOUTIQUE

UNIQUE

When Maciej Zień, the high priest of Warsaw fashion, moved his frocks and gowns (plus his newly found interior design store) onto ul. Mokotowska, it settled the argument about which street is the most stylish stretch of asphalt in the capital. The street runs south from pl. Trzech Krzyży, passing through pl. Zbawiciela. While it continues to al. Armii Ludowej, most of the action ends at pl. Zbawiciela, which is now infested with cool watering holes. Don’t be misled by the mishmash architecture or some of the

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM LEFT: (2) ANNA J. KUTOR, KEVIN DEMARIA

YOUNG, MALE & SINGLE

run-down exteriors, price tags on ul.

Mokotowska are in the OMG category and a credit card is a vital shopping partner. Local labels ready to dress you up include Izabela Łapińska (no.64) and Ania Kuczyńska (no.61).

At LILOU (no.63), it’s accessories and leather bags. Then pop in next door to the Gal i Lou (no.63) perfumery to pick up a scent or aromatherapy potion. The children’s department is covered by Flaming & Kids (no.45).

See the …Till You Drop section for other shopping suggestions. Note that the boutiques open (fashionably) late at 11am from Mondays to Saturdays.

If your feet are not made for walking, recuperate with a facial and massage at Le Spa (no.55). Or get a bite at Przegryź (no.52) and have tea and cakes at Słodki Słony (no.45).

SMART GREEN

One thing Warsaw isn’t short on is parks and gardens. While Łazienki Park is prissy about feet trotting on its grass, the gardens at the Warsaw University Library are quite happy to have you rolling on their lawns.

Gardens, in plural, because the greenery is split into two sections: the rooftop and the ground level. The two parts are connected by stairs and a cascading water feature, implanted with handsome cattails, among other floral species. The library building itself houses cafés, a bowling alley, a children’s play area (for a fee) and a rock-climbing wall. Though the governmental tourism board hail this outdoor attraction as “one of the largest and most beautiful roof gardens in Europe,” it’s really not enough mileage on its own for a foray. After taking in the view of the river and the

city’s skyline, you and your company are going to say, “What’s next?” So, bundle it together with an exploration of the Old Town, or the Solec district or, before or after a romp at the Copernicus Science Center, it’ll work very nice as a slow-mo point.

Delikatesy Braci Gessler ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 Kafka ul. Oboźna 3 MiTo Art.Cafe.Books ul. Waryńskiego 28 Nowy Wspaniały Świat ul. Nowy Świat 63 Starbucks ul. Nowy Świat 63 W Biegu Café (multiple locations)

ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 5178, www.buw.uw.edu.pl. Open 9:00-18:00.

COFFEE DRIP

The free refills concept isn’t wide spread, but free wi-fi (the local pronunciation is “wee-fee”) and limitless hanging out time with no second orders are. Warsaw has a caffeine joint for every personality type or operational need. Early birds can flock to Café Vincent, a French bakery that opens daily at 6:30am.

Ready for action at 7am is newcomer MiTo Art.Cafe.Books. There’s fresh pastries to match the seriously good coffee. If you’re in a sleek suit and implanted with a blackberry, you’ll be in your element at Café 6/12. Showy and stylish hipsters converge at the open-spaced Nowy Wspaniały Świat.

The venue stages book launches, exhibitions and acts that qualify as creative output. It’s great for people watching. So is shabby-posh Delikatesy Braci Gessler, opposite the Bristol Hotel, where everybody goes for the value sandwiches. Charlotte bills itself as a bread and wine hub, but it draws espresso-loving posh people (dress code = white cotton) to its minimalistic chambers with unobstructed views of the bakers and dough. Chłodna 25 has salvaged low tables and sofas for the arty types who need a reliable wi-fi connection.

If titles matter, check out Kafka, the 2010 winner of the Insider’s Best Café award. W Biegu Café, a local chain, is good for stretching the złoty since six zlots gets you any coffee take-outs, including a double latte. And of course, there’s Starbucks and Coffee Heaven for generic global appeal.

Café 6/12 ul. Żurawia 6/12 Café Vincent ul. Nowy Świat 64 Charlotte Al. Wyzwolenia 18 Chłodna 25 ul. Chłodna 25 Coffee Heaven (multiple locations)

EYE ON THE PAST

Despite enjoying a central location opposite the Palace of Culture, this museum is often over-looked.

Probably because it’s tucked away in the dodgy-looking (and pungent) courtyard of a tenement building.

Those who have been there, however, rate it as a must-see. Fotoplastikon is a repository of over 3,000 images from the 19th century to early 1960’s, capturing sepia-tinted glimpses of not just Warsaw, but also other cities like Beijing, Moscow and Paris.

The delivery technique is stereoscopy, a method invented in the mid-19th century to generate 3D perspectives with a set of 2D images.

You peep into a binocular eyepiece and the pictures rotate into view accompanied by popular musical hits from yesteryear. Some of the prints are colour-enhanced. At The Big Three Museums (Warsaw Rising, Chopin and Copernicus Science Centre) the strategy is info-overload.

Here, it’s the opposite. It doles out the images in bite-size portions, each viewing lasting about 12 minutes. Single entry is a mere zł. 4.

The theme changes regularly, covering different geographical zones. On Sundays, the spotlight is on pre-war Warsaw. al. Jerozolimskie 51, tel. 22 629 6078, www.fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl.

Open Tues-Sun 10:00-18:00.

www.warsawinsider.pl

15

SOCIALIST

PARADISE

Communism might have been a daft idea, but give it its due: it fathered some fab looking buildings.

Warsaw’s got plenty of Socialist Realist follies, not the least in the shape of its Palace of Culture. But to really immerse yourself in the atmosphere of the Cold War then check out the laid back district that calls itself Mariensztat. Formerly an area of tight, tangled streets, war damage left architects with a blank page to work with. What they came up with was a prototype settlement built to a socialist realist template. Tinged with Miss Piggy pink colors, this was Warsaw’s first post-war housing project, as well as something of a propaganda tool.

Seen as a showpiece development it opened to drum rolls and fanfare in 1948, and played a starring role in Poland’s first color film: Adventure on Mariensztat. To this day, touches from that Brave New World survive in the form of quirky statues and faded murals, and you’ll find Mariensztat connected to Old Town via Poland’s first escalator. Along with commie reliefs, a set of rules forbidding people riding the escalator for fun have been preserved to this day.

Altogether more brutal in style, head to pl. Konsytucji to check the MDM project. Described by one author as a “huge open air gallery of socialist sculpture,” it’s a wacky time capsule with overgrown streetlights, mosaics and more. (AW)

16

All newcomers will be familiar with Polish vodka, but Polish beer? Possibly not. And there’s good reason for that. Polish beer, honestly, just isn’t very good. At least it wasn’t. For too long bar owners found themselves strong armed into signing exclusive deals with the big name breweries, leaving the customer to glumly nurse a pint of fizzed up sewer discharge.

But behold, good news. More and more places are deserting the mainstream brands, opting instead for alternative labels from lesser known homes. The results have been astounding, and overdue proof that there are brewers out there who know what they’re doing.

So which ones to look for? One lager making massive inroads on the market is Ciechan, and that’s closely followed by local acts like Browar Konstancin. The knock-on effects have been telling, with even relative giants like Warsaw-based Królewskie thinking outside of the box and releasing a rather tasty unpasteurized beer. Pleasingly, more and more independent bars are choosing to stock these more obscure beers, and you’ll find no better selection than the unassuming Kwadrat (ul. Poznańska 7). Put simply, they’ve the best beer fridge in Poland.

in the sky, but how about the other vistas spread around town. First off, and the daddy of the lot is clearly the Palace of Culture. Built in ’55 as a gift from Stalin, first reactions tend to involve the word “woah.” Featuring 3,288 rooms it remains the tallest building in Polska, and a trip to the viewing tower is an absolute must.

And while you’re there, try and book onto a tour to investigate the lower floors – high notes in this showpiece socialist monster include a VIP room built for Brezhnev, and the Congress Hall which once hosted the Stones in ’67. Alas, killjoy officials ensured the crowds appreciation was limited to waving their scarves overhead while obediently sat down.

Across the road, check out the three legged InterContinental, home to a 44th floor pool (Europe’s highest), or the 40th floor bar in the Marriott opposite. Ponder this when you’re there: it took French spiderman, Alain Robert, 17 minutes to scale the thing with his bare hand – hence beating his photographer (who puffed up the stairs) by over ten minutes. Away from the starscrapers, St. Anne’s Church (Krakowskie Przedmieście 68) features a seasonal viewing tower attached, with the 147 steps leading to a level overlooking the Old Town.

Finally, don’t forget Kopiec Powstania Warszawskiego (ul. Bartycki). Touting the longest stairwell in town, this man-made mound was built atop of war rubble, and is crowned by a monument commemorating the Warsaw Uprising. Set 121 meters above sea level, its panoramas offset any asthmatic scares.

JOIN THE

BRUNCH BUNCH SKY HIGH

Warsaw’s a tall city, and frankly much of it looks better above the clouds than it does way below them. Now if you’ve been reading this thoroughly you’ll already know there’s a garden

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

Ex-pat rites of passage are numerous (getting bollocked for jay walking, for instance) though few are as fun as the institution that is brunch. Now back in my Western life, I’d always assumed brunch was something you ate between lunch and breakfast.

Wrong. Out here brunch is defined as

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM LEFT (2) KEVIN DEMARIA, AGENCJA FORUM

THE OBVIOUS BARRING

a Sunday afternoon affair that by in large concludes with a pretty nasty hangover. As a way to spend the weekend it should be top of your list.

The premise is simple: pay a flat fee and then proceed to annihilate as much booze and food as the beltline allows. Even better, you’ll find a stack of places offering just such an opportunity.

Practically all the big five star chains offer such a deal, though I’ve yet to find one that’s better than the Westin.

That said, each has its positives.

Take the Hilton, for instance, home to excellent roast beef. The InterConti scores highly for kids, while the Bristol is favored on occasions more formal. For a more boutique experience then give La Regina a whirl, while an honorary mention must go to the Sheraton. And you’ll find a number of restaurants getting in on the act and all – Boathouse and Blue Cactus both offer brunches, and with summer in its swansong you could do worse than making the most of their gardens. Prices vary between venues, but you’ll usually be shelling out approx. zł. 150 for a feast like no other. And fear not if you’ve got a tribe of noisy little monsters – most of these places will put on babysitters and kids entertainment as part of the package.

GET

HIP

This time ten years back new arrivals would have been issued with one piece of advice: dress up in Kevlar if you’re heading to Praga. Jump forward to 2011 and Praga, Warsaw’s right bank, has pulled a U-turn, and in the process developed into one of Central Europe’s most talked about districts. Artsy, liberated and cracking good fun, what was once seen as Dodge City is now party central. True, it helps if you’re 27 and look like a DJ, but even if not it’s worth exploration.

Characterized by broken, brooding tenements and a dark, gloomy look it’s the surprising symbol of new, hipster Warsaw. For many the high street, ul. Ząbkowska, is the main point of interest, and it’s here you’ll

find the sort of bars that make Berlin look vanilla. A steaming pot of (experi)mentalism, it’s not just the bars that lend this place edge.

Art plays a big role in these parts, and that’s emblemized nicely by Soho Factory (www.sohofactory.pl), a collection of abandoned factory units rented to local artists. Then there’s the Koneser Vodka Factory (Ząbkowska 27/31), a red brick complex now filled with galleries and cultural institutes. That said, you kinda’ expect those places of New Look Praga. Less unexpected are its oddities – like, for instance, Warsaw’s longest building. Nicknamed the Dachshund, the 508 meter long block was allegedly stuck up under communism to obstruct the train station view of the crumbling apartments set just behind. You might be more familiar with it as the backdrop for the Travis vid Love Will Come Through. Or, for something really quirky, check the swaying, rubber statue of Pan Guma (ul. Stalowa/Czynszowa), a lovable local bum now immortalized outside his favorite bottle shop.

THREE

CHEERS

Naysayers be damned. Poland, the surprise choice to co-host Euro 2012, appears to have its house in order, with the new national stadium at last primed for action. Set across the river on Rondo Waszyngtona, this gleaming 58,000 capacity stadium is Poland’s trump card as it readies itself for next year’s football tournament. Costing 1.2 billion zlots, and hounded by scandal and speculation, its timely completion is one in the eye for the doubters and critics. Space age it might be, but there’s also a history

KIDS IN THE CITY Surviving life as an ex-pat mum can only be accomplished in one way – connecting with others in the same predicament. Wherever we are we want our family to be happy, educated and most importantly healthy. So when up against a foreign language, dark winters and a somewhat fearsome folklore we mums face challenges not even Bear Grylls wishes to battle.

My survival strategy began by signing up to organizations such as Mums & Tots, American Friends and the International Women’s Institute. With these under my belt confusion and fear were swept away. A network of approachable volunteers creating social, cultural and educational activities to ease the transition, were my new best friends and support mechanism. As an active member I have learned knowledge really is power and I can enjoy the best of Warsaw no longer a stranger.

GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS (Ex-pat mum and Insider columnist) www.warsawinsider.pl

17

Always fancied front row seats for the opera, but forking over $400 makes you think twice? Then Warsaw is nirvana. Try one-fifth the price and 100% the quality. Check online at www. teatrwielki.pl. Reserve dinner at Bistro de Paris around the corner and start your sojourn on the right foot.

The Warsaw Philharmonia’s (www.filharmonia.pl) world class performances will certainly tame the classical beast.

For English-speaking companionship, turn to some of the expatriate clubs in town, such as the American Friends in Warsaw or the International Women’s Group. Look into activities with the various business chambers, such as the American Chamber of Commerce (www.amcham. pl), whose monthly business mixers continue to attract a large following. There is something here for everyone.

PAULA REWALD (Our cultured Insider)

18

lessly efficient in their destruction of Warsaw, and authentic surviving remnants remain a rare find indeed.

Choice is limited when it comes to tracing these surviving elements, though for sheer size alone one shouldn't miss the decrepit looking cemetery on Okopowa 49/51. Closer to town, a section of the original Ghetto wall survives in the courtyard of ul. Sienna 55 (enter from ul. Złota 62), though for a real glimpse of the past head to ul. Próżna. Dating from the 19th Century, it was the one Ghetto street to escape obliteration.

Propped up by wooden scaffolds, the largely empty tenements lean inwards onto the street, lending an eerie edge to this fragment of history. Once filled with Jewish traders, it doesn't take much to hear their ghosts whisper in the shadows. Check it out while you can, plans are afoot to restore and renovate the buildings into Class A offices.

GHOSTS OF THE PAST

Prior to WWII Warsaw’s Jewish population stood at 350,000, a figure outdone by only New York. Walled off in 1940, the Warsaw Ghetto was to become the largest under Nazi occupation, and as synonymous with suffering as the death camps and gas chambers. A heroic Jewish uprising in 1943 was mercilessly crushed, and in the months that followed what constituted the Ghetto was methodically razed. Post-war the Muranów housing estate was plonked on the ruins, and the area today is largely grey and underwhelming – at least on first impressions. In actual fact monuments and memorials have been shooting up, even more so in recent times. Included in that are a trail of 21 plaques marking the Ghetto boundaries, and a new installation where a bridge over Chłodna once linked the large Ghetto with the small (due to unveiled sometime in Sept).

Even so, the Germans were ruth-

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

INSANE FOR

CRANES

As noted before on these pages, Warsaw’s a tall city, even more so when compared to Poland’s other urban areas. The thing is, it’s not even entered adolescence yet – yep, it’s about to get a whole lot taller.

Of the skyscrapers that are going up perhaps the most apparent is the Złota 44 development between Złote Tarasy and the InterConti. Designed by the world renowned Daniel Liebeskind (himself Polish born), the project is back on track after being put on hold for a couple of years – first because of the financial crisis, and then as a consequence of dodgy permits and issues with the locals.

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM LEFT: SHUTTERSTOCK, KEVIN DEMARIA, COURTESY OF WARSAW UPRISING MUSEUM

HIGH CULTURE

behind it. Makkabi Warszawa, Warsaw’s pre-war Jewish team, apparently played on this site, and in the years after the war it famously functioned as Stadion Dziesięciolecia.

Built in 1955 to honor the tenth year of People’s Poland, this oval-shaped, open arena was soon established as the national stadium: notoriously, Ryszard Siewiec set himself ablaze in front of a crowd of 100,000 to protest the Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia back in 1968.

However, it was after the fall of the Iron Curtain that it really entered folklore. No longer used for sporting events, it was rented out to a group called Jamark Europa, who promptly turned the stadium into one of the great outdoor bazaars of Central Europe. Nicknamed ‘the Russian Market’, this chaotic haven of piracy and vice finally closed its doors in 2008 to make way for that spangly thing you now see. A statue of three relay racers poised for glory is the one original element that survives to this day.

With that now behind them, the 58 floor residential tower, designed to resemble a ‘glass sail’, is slated for completion in 2013.

But that’s small fry compared to the Warsaw Spire. Set next to the Hilton, ground was broken this summer on a project that will see the construction of a 220 meter glass tower. Elliptical in shape, the office block will be neighbored by the ‘Chopin Tower,’ a 160 meter block consisting of luxury accommodation. But there’s more to come, and few mooted developments have caused as much excitement as the Lilium Tower. Described by some as a giant corn cob, this 70 floor beast will (finally) replace the Palace of Culture as Poland’s highest building.

For more skyscraper facts, check wiezowce.waw.pl.

of embassies, enterprises, boutiques and cafes, this village-style district feels independent of Warsaw.

And while there, don’t miss Park Skaryszewski – or Park Scary-szewski as it was once viewed by me. Once notorious for its nefarious nighttime activity, the park has enjoyed a massive clean-up. So much so, it was recently voted Warsaw’s favorite park.

Among its highlights find Misianka, an award-winning cake shop set in a former WC, as well as a memorial to an RAF plane shot down during the war. Interestingly, the Monument of Gratitude to the Soviet Army was recently restored – not out of aforementioned gratitude, but because some larrikin allegedly went postal and sprayed it with bullets.

SEE THE

OLD TOWN ON WHEELS

FUNKY

FUNCTIONALISM

The suburbs of Warsaw are a largely one dimensional affair – pleasant dormitories filled with tower block developments. Bucking that trend is Saska Kępa, commonly considered the capital’s most affluent part. With the amount of quality new build springing up that’s a point that’s now open to debate; what isn’t is the enduring allure of this section of town. Officially incorporated into Warsaw in 1916, the inter-bellum period saw its rapid development as the financially able migrated across the water. To this day the whole area is a dazzling advert for the functionalist style of the 1930s, and its leafy side streets just custom made for Sunday strolls. Home to a multitude

There’s a traditional way to see the Old Town, and that’s on foot with your map flapping away. However, there are alternatives modes to take you around the streets, and few can beat a horse-drawn carriage. Stationed at the mouth of Old Town, find a line of dorożki patiently touting for business. Half hour trips tend to weigh in around the zł. 100 mark, but don’t feel shy to hone your bargaining skills. For something cheaper, how about the ‘Old Town Train.’ Reminiscent of one of those ‘mini trains’ found pootling around zoos, this thing actually travels on tires. Operating on weekends, you’ll find this automotive plying for trade by King Zygmunt’s column.

Expect to pay about zł. 20 for thirty minutes, and don’t be alarmed to find it filled to the brim with whooping infants. Finally, get futuristic and rent a Segway. You can do so at Karmnik (ul. Piwna 4A), where zł. 50 wins you thirty minutes on one of these selfbalancing contraptions. Surprisingly addictive, it’s great fun menacing pedestrians while bouncing across cobbles. Photo ID is expected, as is no sense of shame – be warned, people will point and jeer as you weave out of control.

CITY OF

RUINS

A cliché term it might be, but few cities outdo Warsaw in the ‘city of contrasts’ department. The label doesn’t just apply to the poverty/ prosperity gap either, but to the disparity between old and new. By the time Soviet troops ‘liberated’ Warsaw, the capital lay under 20 million cubic meters of rubble with total destruction measured at 84%. In the post-war years a new city emerged, one to replace the one wiped off the map by the Nazi maelstrom.

Nonetheless, and for all the aggressive rebuilding, traces of the carnage are still surprisingly commonplace.

What pre-war buildings do remain come scarred and criss-crossed with bullet holes, and this is immediately apparent walking around streets like Emilii Plater and Hoża. Yet for sheer lumbering menace, check the half collapsed tenement at Waliców 14, or what remains of the Imperial Bank at Bielańska 10 – do so now, before work to restore it as top-grade office space comes to fruition. In this age of glass towers and 21st Century progress, it’s hard to believe that Warsaw was, essentially, little more than a pile of burned bricks in 1945.

Yet that’s exactly what it was, and you can see for yourself by sitting through the ‘City of Ruins’ film in the Warsaw Uprising Museum. Produced using 3D CGI effects, the five minute film takes viewers on an aerial tour over a devastated Warsaw. High impact doesn’t begin to describe the experience.

www.warsawinsider.pl

19

COLUMN work place: from conducting presentations to running training courses. That’s the good news. The flipside is, there’s no escaping putting in the time (applicable to mere mortals, not genius polyglots). Here are two roadmaps to getting a better grasp of what your neighbors are saying about you.

New? Confused? You should be.

The Polish language is a minefield, so we’ve looked into a few tried and tested strategies for raising your game.

BY KIT F. CHUNG

S

o convoluted is Polish grammar that it’s easy to believe that the founding fathers of the Polish tongue were cooking up as many twisted rules as possible in order to win the title of the most difficult language in the world. Unfortunately, these (competitive and sadistic) early speakers are already six feet under, so we can’t send the hit man after them. And it’s not just grammar; pronunciation is another toughie as illustrated by smartasses challenging you to pull off tongue twisters like “Chrząszcz brzmi w trzcinie w Szczebrzeszynie” (I won’t even try to write it out phonetically).

Yes, there’s plenty to gripe about. And it’s easy to throw in the towel, too. However, don’t be discouraged. There are many success stories from learners who met this Slavic language head-on. With a never-say-die attitude, within two years, some even manage to operate in Polish in the

20

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

Tandem Sessions When Andrea Klement, the former director of the Austrian Institute in Warsaw, said she was calling her tandem partner, I thought she was going rock climbing. After a while I caught on that it’s a language swap. Andrea has dialogues in German with Andrzej for 45 minutes, and that’s followed by an equal amount of time for Polish banter. At Language Exchange Ads-Warsaw (www.lea.edu.pl), you can barter whatever you’re a native speaker of for Polish lessons.

Either leave your contact or get in touch with the locals keen to learn your first language. If a tipple or two doesn’t diminish your faculties for seven declension cases, then drink and talk at the Tandem Evening in Warsaw (look them up on Facebook) on Monday’s from 7pm at Obiekt Znaleziony.

POLISH LANGUAGE STARTERS

What does it mean? Co to znaczy? (Tsoh toh ZNAchy?)

How do you spell that? Jak to się wymawia? (Yak toh się vyMAvia?)

Do you speak English? Czy mówisz po angielsku? (Chy moovish poh ANG-yelsku?)

I speak a little bit of Polish. Mówię trochę po polsku. (Moovye TROhe poh polsku)

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

POLISH MADE POSSIBLE

Back to School Why attend just one language school when you can go to more than one simultaneously? Obviously, time aside, money can thwart this grand scheme. Stephan forks out a wad of hard cash for IKO (www.iko.com.pl), a private school specialising teaching Polish to foreigners. With his spare change, he goes to additional classes at FROG (Foundation for Development “Beyond Borders”; www.frog.org.pl). Funding from sponsors enables FROG to charge a scanty zł. 300 for a three-month course (3 hours weekly). Linguae Mundi (www.linguaemundi.pl) has FOC courses for non-EU passport holders. However, these freebies are sporadic; the courses are scheduled only if they are successful in securing EU funding.

Having attended IKO, FROG and LM, I can vouch for all three. IKO applies the “communicative approach” that gets you to do as much talking as possible. Everything is explained in Polish, by way of examples and/or visual aids. And in just one course (2 months and a bit, 4.5 hours weekly), I went from zero to nailing the ‘Tourist Level’ confidently. FROG is more traditional in that the lessons are split between grammar work and chitchats. The former is great as revision, but the latter is pretty useless since everyone is jabbering on in broken Polish. LM gave me the solid grammar work that suits me. My classmates at IKO were mostly Western Europeans, while those at FROG largely hailed from the east, like Ukraine, Belarus, and Russia. LM has expanded my network of friends to include nationalities from Cuba, Ecuador, India and Turkey.

BEST OF WARSAW 2011

GET VOTING! The time has come for Warsaw’s foodie version of the Oscars: The Best of Warsaw Insider Gala is round the corner, with our red carpet in action on October 28th, 2011.

We’re taking a new community-based approach this year, with several categories being assigned to and judged by an expert panel chaired by some of the biggest ex-pat organizations around. Nonetheless, the Insider remains a democracy, and you too will be getting the chance to vote via our new Facebook page.

Awards voted by the readers include:

Best Newcomer Best First Date Best People Watching

Join the polling now and win tickets for the prestigious event itself! www.facebook.com/warsawinsider

Make your vote count!

RELICS OF THE PRL (1952-1989)

Standing behind the figure of Charles de Gaulle, it’s pretty hard not to notice that grey box-like building that looms behind the hurried looking Frenchman. Completed in 1951 to serve as the ‘House of the Party’ this was to all intents and purposes the beating heart of Polish communism right up until 1989.

Designed by a group of architects known as ‘The Tigers’, ribbon cutting took place on July 22, a national holiday celebrated by flag waving parades. Financed by good will ‘donations’ from the Polish public, it was built to fit seamlessly with the National Museum next door. An experiment in propaganda and patriotism, all materials used were exclusively Polish – all that is but the stairs outside. Constructed from granite, the raw material for these came from Hindenburg’s mausoleum up by Grunwald.

Yet while the exteriors look surprisingly modest, the interiors were anything but. The inner courtyard, then closed off to the prole, was reserved for party limousines, with ‘Entrance B’ marked as Bolesław Bierut’s own private door. Perks for Bierut – Poland’s first commie leader – didn’t end there, and he had his own little lift (cranked manually by some mystery chap), and cinema.

On his death, in ’56, his body was laid out in state in one of the halls. One popular story recalls how a janitor, mistaking the coffin for firewood, tried to chisel it to pieces. On realizing his error he fled the capital, never to be heard of again. The veracity of this story is open to debate, as are rumors of secret tunnels leading to the Palace of Culture.

Today what was Party HQ stands on the opposite end of the socialist spectrum. Used for a while as home of the Warsaw Stock Exchange, it’s nowadays home to such un-Stalinist concepts like fine wine and Ferrari.

Originally founded in 1956, Café Bajka (Nowy Świat 44) can stake claim as being one of Warsaw’s enduring com-stitutions. Briefly closed last year as a result of rising rents, Bajka are back by popular demand! Yes, so they’ve had a spring clean, but they’re not fooling anyone. Filled with rich underarm smells and a seventies style it’s as authentic as ever, with the one thing that’s missing being the eye stinging smoke. A great place, just be warned: the house specialty is tripe.

22

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

PROPAGANDA PICS Big Brother may have taken his omnipotent eye off the people, but have the people taken their eye off him? No chance.

Propaganda posters from yesteryear are big news, with reproduced prints available from zł. 2676 at Wilanów’s Poster Museum. Alternatively, get the real deal by heading to one of the regular auctions at Desa on pl.

Konstytucji 2.

PHOTOGRAPHS: CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: AGENCJA FORUM, DESA, KEVIN DEMARIA

PARTY CENTRAL

join us

TOP FASHION DESTINATION KLIF SHOPPING CENTER

UL. OKOPOWA 58/72, 01- 042 WARSAW PHONE: 22 531 45 00, W W W .KLIF.PL

w

w

w

.

l

i

l

l

a

.

c

o

m

.

p

l

BUSSING THE NEIGHBORHOOD

24

A FINE LINE Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

Just imagine, a cross-city service that drops you on the doorstep of Warsaw's best sights. A service whose cost runs no further than coins. Well, such a thing exists: it's the 180 bus. Hop on board.

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

www.warsawinsider.pl

25

BUSSING THE NEIGHBORHOOD

I

can tell a few people are going to leap frog this page the moment they see the word bus, and fair enough, it can – on occasions – be a daring form of transport out here. That’s especially true in rush hour, when a scented handkerchief can be a valued piece of your travel armory; not least when you find yourself sat next to a bashed-up duffer laminated with blood and sweat.

But be brave, public transport isn’t just cheap and convenient here, it’s also often the best way of experiencing the city: both the good and the… not so good. And that never holds truer than of the 180 bus, a fine line which rolls past the gateways of practically all of Warsaw’s A-class sights.

So, get a window seat and keep a lookout for...

1

Powązkowska Exit to catch the most famous necropolis in Poland. Established in 1790, Powązki Cemetery was originally designed by royal architect Dominik Merlini. Today it covers an area equivalent to the Vatican and is the resting place for such notables as Chopin’s parents, patriot Jan Kiliński, and ‘the female Schindler,’ Irena Sendler.

There’s never a bad time to visit, but to enjoy it at its best visit on All Saints Day (01.11) when the whole place glimmers and glows under the dim red light of candles left by visitors.

2

Niska Red Alert! Chances of sitting next to someone 'interesting' go up tenfold at this stop. The reason: the presence of the local drunk tank on Kolska. Let these zombie eyed chaps be a warning to anyone considering getting leathered before stealing a policeman’s hat.

There is another reason though to be keeping your eyes peeled, and that’s the Jewish Cemetery down the road. A wall tapestry of jagged tombstones smashed by the Nazis greets you on entry, and from there the best advice is to wander at will. Time stands still here, and walking amid the overgrown tombstones, sunken and twisted into the earth, is a haunting experience. Estimated to hold 250,000 graves, it’s home to numerous markers and memorials, not least one dedicated to the ‘Children of the Ghetto.’

3

Nalewki Eyes left. The big glass/concrete box you see is The Museum of Polish Jews, slated for launch next year. In front of it, check out the Monument to the Heroes of the Ghetto Uprising. Built using stone originally ordered for a Nazi victory arch, it’s here that German Chancellor Willy Brandt made his 1970 kniefell in apology for the past.

26

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

4

Muranów As you may have guessed, the area you’re in was the heart of the Ghetto. Rebuilt in Socialist Realist style in the post-war years, this part of Warsaw looks straight out of a fifties spy story. Andersa, the main street running by this stop, was itself modeled on Berlin’s Karl Marx Allee.

5

Pl. Krasińskich Look left, right, up, down. The garish green building you may have noticed is the Supreme Court, and it’s right next to it you’ll see Wincent Kucma’s epic monument to the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. Originally criticized for its ‘sensationalism’ it’s become an iconic symbol of the rebellion, and stands opposite a manhole, now commemorated by an “it happened here” plaque, through which thousands of insurgents escaped the Nazis.

6

Kapitulna Whose that girl? The great, sword wielding babe you see is Nike, the Greek Goddess of Victory, and she’s been watching over this highway since 1997.

Sculpted in 1964, in honor of those who fought and died during WWII, she was for many years the closest thing locals had to a statue that specifically remembered their wartime sacrifice. Originally positioned on pl. Teatralny, Nike became something of a focal point for patriotic, stuffthe-system protests during communism.

7

Pl. Zamkowy Now we’re talking. Pl. Zamkowy is the mother lode for tourists. It was to the red Royal Castle that the King's court was relocated to in the 16th Century, and while it was decimated by the Blitzkrieg of '39, even worse was to follow five years later. A black and white pic outside the entrance illustrates the scale of destruction, showing just a couple of brick stumps left sticking out of the ruins. Hard to believe, but that glorious thing in front of you was actually only rebuilt as recently as 1980. The column of Zygmunt isn't too old either. That was taken out by a German artillery round, and while the figure of Ziggy (the chap who shifted the capital from Kraków to Warsaw) is original, the column isn't. For the real deal look for the granite tube-like thing which lies to the flank of the castle.

8

Hotel Bristol Next stop, Bristol. On the way, past

by St Anne's, home to a great viewing tower which nearly came crashing down after engineers working on the post-war W-Z tunnel made some serious miscalculations. Close by, the Presidential Palace was where the

CHOMICZÓWKA

WILANÓW

Warsaw Pact was signed in '55, while across the road from the Briz, Napoleon met his Polish lover Marie Walewska at number 15.

9

Uniwersytet Sat behind the imperious gates at number 26/28 find Warsaw's principal university, due to celebrate its bicentenary in 2019. Nearby the Church of the Holy Cross is home to Chopin's heart, and you'll find a number of ornamental benches on this stretch which explain Chopin's association with the area. And don't forget the Copernicus statue, whose plaque was famously reworded by the occupying Germans claiming the astronomer “Wor Deutsche”. A Polish scout stole the offending tablet, and in retort the Nazis hid Copernicus down a mine shaft for the rest of the war.

10

Foksal A good time for a beer break, quite possibly down Foksal itself, or in those dark, divey cult bars just behind. As you'll know from our PRL page, you find yourself close to the former Communist HQ, and right by it you'll see the striding form of Charles de Gaulle. What's his story with Warsaw? Well, he did his bit for PL, fending off the Red Army during the 1920 Battle of Warsaw – a heroic confrontation which saved the rest of Europe from the red hordes. And I guess you're not going to miss the palm tree, either. Titled “Greetings from Jerusalem Avenue” the installation is a reminder of Warsaw's connection with Israel, and more specifically its lost Jewish population.

11

Pl. Trzech Krzyży Got a gold card? Here's where to spend it, namely in the umpteen designer stores that have made home around here. Alternatively, check St. Alexander's in the middle. Inspired by the Pantheon, author Bolesław Prus had his funeral ceremony here, and it was also a meeting point for allied spies during the war – until it was smacked by nine Luftwaffe bombs during the Uprising.

Pl. Na Rozdrożu Having passed scores of flag fluttering embassies and mysterious, guarded institutions find yourself at Pl. N.R, the mouthpiece leading to Ujazdowski Castle. Worth talking about? Certainly.

Originally built as a 17th Century royal residence, and subsequently used as a military hospital for 200 years, it's served as the CSW gallery since 1981, one of the leading contemporary exhibition spaces in Europe. And

12

don't think the ugly little cafe you pass on the way there is without history either. Designed by Jerzy Cander, it's sheer seventies excess, and the proud 1974 winner of a zippy sounding architecture prize called Mr. Warsaw.

13

Łazienki Królewskie The definitive Warsaw park, and a veritable feast of palaces, pavilions and peacocks. Dated from the 17th Century, highlights include a botanical garden, a classically inspired amphitheater, and the Chopin monument; an exact replica of the one dynamited in 1940. Totally compelling, but before going any further, bear three words in mind: “Keep off the Grass.”

14

Spacerowa Staring across at Łazienki find the beast facing the beauty. The Russian Embassy (completed 1955) was technically the last structure in Poland built in the Socialist Realist style, and was the scene of one of Poland's classic triumphs over the Evil Empire. Having attended a 1981 gala to celebrate the October Revolution, Polish double agent Ryszard Kukliński slipped the Russkies tailing him and was driven off by CIA spooks. Kept in a safe house that night, he was succesfully delivered to the West the following day.

15

Wilanów Thirteen stops from Spacerowa sits Wilanów, an affluent suburb with regal connections. It's here your urban tour concludes, and where better to end it than the 17th Century palace comissioned

by King Jan III Sobieski. Now a vast museum, it's been likened as the Polish Versailles, and is a breathtaking tour through the former corridors of power. With that ticked off, why not find time for Nowa Kużnia, the new bar to be seen in this part of town.

POLISH BUS PHRASES

Where is... ? gdzie jest... ? (gjie y-est) What is this bus stop? jaki to przystanek? (yaki toh pshyh-stanek?)

Where should I get off to reach...? gdzie mam wysiąść, by dojechać do... (gjie mam WYsi-onsi-c, byh do-YE-haci doh...?)

How far is... on walking distance? jak daleko na piechotę jest do... (yak da-LE-koh na pi-ehote yest doh...?)

What is the name of this district / of this street? jaka to dzielnica/ ulica? (yaka toh dji-elnits-a / oo-LI-tsa?)

How can I get to...? Jak dojechać do...? (Yak do-YE-haci doh...?)

www.warsawinsider.pl

27

CULINARY PROFILE

BEHIND THE KITCHEN DOORS...

This month it's the turn of Luca and Lorenzo, two Italians who've been making waves as the partnership behind Delizia.

day. Oooh, I love fish, I think I must have been one in a previous life. I've even got two tattooed on me.

What makes a restaurant succesfull?

Fresh ingredients. Then you need an excellent chef and a proper balance and relationship between the kitchen, the front of house and the customers.

And it's important that every guest is treated the same. Whatever they eat, whatever they spend, every guest is special and has to feel special.

What's the biggest mistake a restaurant can make?

People start doing well and think, we can do the same thing but cut costs at the same time. Never do that! You must always keep the standard, and improve on it. You can't do that by saving costs.

28

Tell me a disaster you've had...

I was working on Elba Island and the place was like a Laurel & Hardy film. So one night I'm cleaning a table, drop the sauce on the floor and forget to clear it. I'm talking to the bosses girlfriend in the kitchen when I remember. “Don't worry, let him break his legs,” she says. Well, I felt sorry for him anyway so went out to tell him but... toooooo late.

Crash. He's lying on the floor with his legs in the air, all around him plates, mussels and laughing guests. At least he didn't break his legs.

Chefs are a different animal, right?

Oh yes, they live in their own world.

They're artists, after all. Painters, singers, chefs – they're the same style of people.

Italian food, tell us more about it...

It's simple food with a heart. I think it's easy to make all these complicated dishes you see in some restaurants. To do a good job on something simple though is harder, but we do that well in Italy. Here in Delizia, we love fish – only the other day we had a 9½ kilo Lampuga delivered from Italy via Germany. It went within a

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

What are you doing differently from other Italian restaurants in Warsaw?

We're here all the time: in the kitchen, on the floor with our guests. People come here knowing they'll see Luca and Lorenzo here, and I think we're good at transmitting this passion that we have.

Warsaw, tell me about it...

I love London, but Warsaw is more manageable, more human. It's a small community and people don't get sucked into their 'star factor' or that of others. Where do I eat? Obviously here, but I also like La Bufala on ul. Sienna, as well as eating pizza at Mela Verde on Chmielna. For nonItalian food, Lemongrass is expensive but worth it.

Luca Bo and Lorenzo Robustelli opened Delizia last year, in the process rocking Warsaw with their vision of Italian hospitality and quality.

Catch them in action on ul. Hoża 58/60, www.delizia.com.pl.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF DELIZIA

What's your story, why Warsaw? Did you get lost?

Well, I've been working in restaurants all my life: in Australia, in England... and Lorenzo is the same: Germany, Italy etc. Anyway, we've both got Polish wives and first met each other out here. Starting a restaurant seemed a good idea. But you know what, we were fed up of the places we had worked in: big restaurants with big names and big egos. We wanted a relaxing restaurant, a place to enjoy.

Your spare time is...

Lorenzo is crazy about Napoli (football club), I love to DJ – deep house, the New York sound. Frankie Knuckles, he'd be my dream customer: just imagine, the Godfather of House in this restaurant! Lorenzo would like to see the Pope in here, or Alain Ducasse, but give me Frankie Knuckles! Not that we have time though. It's twelve hour days here – Valentine's Day with my wife was spent here at work...

EATING OUT Restaurants, Cafes & Wine Bars SECTIONS African. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

American & Tex-Mex . . . .

Asian & Indian. . . . . . . . . .

Balkan & Russian. . . . . . .

Cafes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

French. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Greek/Middle Eastern. . .

International & Fusion. . .

THIS MONTH:

* 19 updates

RATINGS p. 39 p.39 p. 40 p.43 p. 30 p.43 p. 43 p.44

Italian. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Japanese & Sushi. . . . . . .

Kosher & Jewish. . . . . . . .

Latin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Polish. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Seafood. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Wine Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Food Shops. . . . . . . . . . . .

p. 48 p.51 p. 53 p.53 p.36 p. 54 p.35 p.55

The following symbols (A1) map location are a rough indicator ideal for business as to how much you meetings can expect to pay for take a date a main course.

child friendly $ mains under

vegetarian friendly zł. 30

delivery $$ mains breakfast menu

zł. 30-55

free wifi available $$$ mains zł. 55+ BOW 2010 Best of Warsaw Award Winner

Insider’s Pick HOT FIND

Nowa Kuźnia ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

PHOTOGRAPH BY BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

G

“ We decided to take our table in the refined but relaxed surroundings of the garden”

iven the, shall we say, minimalistic approach this restaurant has taken to its website and my own lack of knowledge about Wilanów, my first trip to Nowa Kuźnia, located just a stone’s throw from the palace, really was a step into the unknown. And sometimes this is the best way to approach this type of assignment, because that way you can be pleasantly surprised when everything turns out perfectly... Luckily for me it certainly did on this occasion.

Set in Mediterranean-style surroundings with starch white walls, a minimalist decor, and a sumptuous outdoor garden, this little gem manages to combine the difficult combination of being classy, without being stuck up, something which I personally find particularly appealing. And given that the day I chose to visit happened to be a nice one we decided to take our table in the refined but relaxed surroundings of the garden.

That’s when the difficulties began. What should one drink? With a fairly comprehensive wine list, an excellent cocktail menu – designed by cocktail king Richard Winkler – and some nice beers on tap it wasn’t as easy as it seems. With the first course it was again something of a step into the unknown for myself, after I picked the salmon tartare (zł. 28), while my colleague went for the somewhat safer option of herring in oil (zł. 24).

I needn’t have worried though as the salmon was perfect with just a light hint of chilli. The herring meanwhile was both nicely presented and fresh – not always the case in a city which notoriously, but not necessarily truthfully, is supposed to only get fish delivered on Thursday.

Then for the main I took the advice of the waiter, who despite being attentive did lack the ability to smile (welcome to Poland) and went with the grilled trout (zł. 39). Again it was well prepared, fresh, and well seasoned. But despite being lovely, given the outstanding nature of the starter, and general ambience of the outdoor area, it couldn’t quite lay claim to being my favourite part of the experience. But with such strong cuisine and beautiful surroundings this is definitely an ideal place to have a relaxed afternoon meal, particularly while there is hope that summer isn’t dead. (DI)

www.warsawinsider.pl

29

EATING OUT cafés

Antrakt (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 827 6411.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. Intellectuals and playwrights gather in Antrakt, a quirky cafe that groans with antiques and artwork.

The presence of the theater next door keeps the IQ level high.

Amor (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17, tel. 22 825 0036, www.czekoladziarniaamor.pl. Open Sun- Mon 12:00-21:00, Tue-Thu 10:00-21:00, Fri 10:00-22:00, Sat 11:00-22:00. Chocoholics beware! One step inside this chocolate parlor is all it takes to become a lifelong fan. Definitely no place for those on a diet, no matter what the light salads and fresh soups may suggest.

Batida (multiple locations) ul. Królewska 2, tel. 22 826 4474, ul. Przy Lasku 2 (Wola), ul. Marszałkowska 53, ul. Przejazd 6, pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, www.batida.com.pl. Open daily 9:00-21:00.

A café, upscale delicatessen and cake shop with traditional Polish elegance. Excellent cakes and nibbles.

Bily Konicek Café (C3) National Ethnographic Museum, ul. Kredytowa 1, tel. 696 490 846. Open daily 9:00-20:00. Stylish décor, brilliant lattes, delicious meringues, fresh pies and home-baked oatmeal cookies, this is a great place for a sweet bite on a rainy day.

Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest.

Brilliant traditional desserts in a historic location that has a history that spans over a century of fine pastry-making. Also stop by the next-door deli for specialty goods.

Bookhousecafé (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 826 8559.

Open daily 7:30-23:00. Great sandwiches, pastries, custom-brewed coffees and over a dozen varities of tea in a bookish interior.

Cafe Borgia (H4) ul. Francuska 50, tel. 22 468 8554. Open 9:00-21:00. Instantly loveable, the downtown cafe branch of the eminent Balgera racks up points for a completely brilliant collection of cakes and desserts. Substantials like freshlymade pasta also available inside relaxed, whitewashed interiors.

30

Café 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00.

Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; still very much the choice haunt for the in-team.

Café Colombia (D4) Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 628 0226.

Open 7:00-23:00. An exotic, colorful café that gains approval for the use of fine-grade Colombian coffee apparently purchased direct from the producer; the luxury Hacienda Bombona is particularly noteworthy.

Café Lemon Bar (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 6 , tel. 22 829 5544, www.cafelemon.pl. Open daily 24hr. Eight years old and counting, Lemon’s greatest glory are their open hours – non-stop.

For an early dawn after-party comedown, this citrus-colored cafe ticks the box, and isn’t so bad during the day when large, airy windows ensure maximum opportunity for people gazing.

Café Melon (Praga) ul. Inżynierska 1. Open daily 9:00-19:00.

This chic little café is an extension of the Melon photo studio located on the property. Here you can have a cup of gourmet tea or coffee and whole-grain cookies while enjoying the art on display.

Mounted photos taken by some of Poland’s young photographers are on sale.

Café Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 22 620 3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:0023:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00. Ignoring the fact that most of this street looks ready to fall down, the artsy looking Próżna comes with a chic, ice white look, and a stack of hard back tomes to compliment the homemade desserts. Even better at night, when soaked in the glow of dozens of candles.

Café Rue de Paris (Saska Kępa) (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 617 8773, www.ruedeparis.eu. Open Mon-Fri 8:0021:00, Sat- Sun 7:30-22:00. A favorite rendez-vous spot for all the French-

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

speaking folk dwelling the area. Salads, quiches and pancakes as well as fresh pastries baked on the premises.

Café Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115.

Open daily 6:30-24:00. A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from almond croissants to delicate brioches.

Caffe Balgera (C6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 629 0189. www.balgera.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. The breakfast menu here is simple but sweet and there’s great upscale café fare here all day long.

Caffetino (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 32, tel. 22 624 0196.

Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 10:0021:00. Located near the Palace of Culture, Caffetino serves mainly Italian cuisine: their pastas are truly excellent. Besides pasta, their specialities include delicious Italian coffees – with some interesting twists, such as the latte with honey and very tasty desserts.

Cava (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, tel. 22 826 6427.

Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 10:0024:00. Złote Tarasy (C4), ul. Złota 59, www.cava.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00. A prime spot on Nowy Świat’s red carpet keeps business brisk in this high-end cafe. Premium Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee available, and best enjoyed on a seasonal terrace that can barely be bettered.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 10:00-last guest. Dreadlocks and piercings are the favored attire in Chłodna, one of the last bastions of beatnik chic this side of the Wisła. Here it’s all sunken sofas and chipped wood tables inside a soothing environment celebrated for its experimental sounds and anti-establishment vibe.

Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, www.coffeekarma.eu. Open Mon-Fri 7:3022:00; Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00.

One of the true pleasures of spring is the Coffee Karma terrace; order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book –

>>

EATING OUT >> it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee.

Czaji Bar Herbaciarnia (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7101.

Open daily 9:00-23:00. With a sumptuouslydecorated interior – think elegant, creamcolored and flouncy French queen’s private chambers – and beautifully-trained staff, Czaji Teahouse is a must-visit at any time of day.

Czarny Motyl (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 2, tel. 608 680 964, www.czarnymotyl.pl. Open daily 12:00-to last customer. An intriguing cross between a chilled-out bar and a cafe, this is a good spot to grab a light meal, a pre-party drink or post-work sheesha.

Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Dobra 31, tel. 22 826 3294, www.czulybarbarzynca.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-

22:00. A very charming bookstore and café in one.

*

Delikatesy Bracia Gessler (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Great sandwiches, cakes and pastries from the Gessler dynasty.

Columned, imperial interiors add a swish look to this Royal Route stalwart.

Fiku Miku Café (H4) ul. Zwycięszców 32. Open 10:00-19:00.

A kid-friendly café filled with stuffed animals and wooden toys. The menu is a good, simple affair that involves shakes and smoothies, salads, quiche and slim line cakes.

Filtry Café (A6) ul. Niemcewicza 3, tel. 798 409 356, www.filtrycafe.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00. Filtry Cafe’s got great coffee, fruit shakes, cakes, and

HOT FIND

light breakfasts combined with a funky atmosphere that attracts art lovers.

Flora Caffe (E7) Al. Ujazdowskie 4, tel. 607 232 642.

Open daily 10:00-20:00. Just outside the Botanical Gardens, this half café and half nursery serves teas, smoothies and sweet treats. Also open in chillier weather.

Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30. Open daily 8:00-22:00.

An attractive modern café in the heart of Saska Kępa with an artsy feel. A large selection of coffee drinks as well as teas, complemented by a choice of pastries, muffins and simple Italian dishes at affordable prices.

Garaż Café (Wilanów) ul. Pastewna 25, tel. 22 858 2693, www.garaz-cafe.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:30; Sat 13:00-21:30; Sun 13:00-17:30.

It’s exactly what it sounds like: a café in a renovated garage. But the fresh,

Bombaj Masala al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777. Open 11:00-23:00.

“ The chicken tikka masala was love at first bite, a thick creamy curry with a deep, lingering taste”

32

ow I realize there’s a temptation to think of Indian food as a cheap and cheerful cuisine, and Bombaj Masala’s original site on Starocińska definitely panders to that view. Looking used and steamy (aesthetics I actually appreciate in an Indian restaurant), it’s every inch the caricature of the low-cost curry den. So, surprise, surprise, to learn that their new sister venture across the map is a definite applicant for Poland’s best looking Indian.

It’s hard to miss this latest outpost of Bombaj Masala; installed in the heart of the financial district, BM glints and glitters from its position on the ground floor of the Atrium complex. First impressions are immediately positive; touting a sleek, sophisticated design, it feels instantly superior to the shabby haunts I usually frequent for my fix of spice. Dark and polished, with token Asian icons, you can tell immediately it’s an affluent crowd the owners are expecting – and yes, the anticipated audience is already rolling through the doors. I was there on a mid-week night, and alarmed to find I was the only one lacking a laptop and tie. Not that the staff seemed to mind.

From beginning to end the service was a pleasure, providing the tell-tale signs of a well-oiled machine.

But it’s what lies between entry and departure that really matters, and it’s here that Bombaj excel. The chicken tikka masala was love at first bite, a thick creamy curry with a deep, lingering taste. Unfortunately, it wasn’t mine, and it took a few kicks from the girlfriend to focus on my own. Now when it comes to curry, some like it hot – I’m one of those people, and to make me happy you need to bring out the big guns and hit me with artillery.

With that in mind, the chicken madras didn’t quite touch the nuclear level for which I’d wished. Still, what sat before me was a good effort, one made all the better by the best naan I’ve tried.

I’ve got to add, final outlay was over and beyond many of the local curry haunts, yet even so with mains flagged at around zł. 35 it’s difficult to leave feeling you’ve had anything but a good deal. If they maintain this early pace, then the people of Warsaw can count themselves lucky. (AW)

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

PHOTOGRAPH BY BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

N

CAFÉS

*

updates

substantial salads and rich pastas win it a real thumbs-up.

Haagen Dazs (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 826 3052.

Open 10:00-20:00. While Starbucks have struggled to replicate their Western form, Haagen Dazs haven’t. The mango sorbet is out of this world, albeit served inside generic, showroom interiors.

Herba Thea (C8) ul. Bruna 20, tel. 22 825 8814, www.herbathea.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00. Just a 5 minute walk from Pole Mokotowskie, off of Al. Niepodległości, this cosy teahouse houses a gallery and hosts live music and workshops on the weekends.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822, www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses. $ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Café” Winner Kalimba (Żoliborz) ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 22 869 9784, mob. 502 669 376, www.kalimba.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat & Sun 10:00-20:00.

Kalimba is a café designed specifically with

Lunch time

Take-away option

little ones in mind. A cross between a gummy candy counter café and toy shop, it’s a wonderland for kids.

a garden/playground, Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials.

Kawiarnia Ogrody (D2) ul. Mariensztat 21A, tel. 22 826 2898, www.kawiarniaogrody.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-20:00.

The black and white decor manages to strike a perfect balance between grungy and chic.

Kawiarnia Ogrody is located on the beautiful, old-timey Mariensztat, and serves a selection of coffee drinks, shakes, snacks and pastries.

Watch out, the ‘large’ coffee is actually huge!

Kredkafe (E6) al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561, www.kredkafe.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00.

The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows.

Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space.

Kawka Bar Kawowy (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, tel. 22 621 6557, www.kawka.pl. Open Mon-Wed 9:00-22:00; Thur-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. With 30 varieties of coffee (and a nice tea selection for you non-coffee types), Kawka brews up great java in a pleasant setting.

Kępa Café (G3) ul. Finlandzka 12a, tel. 22 616 1225, www.kepacafe.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0022:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00. A beatnik café that attracts the artists, writers and free wi-fi addicted inhabitants. Just the place if you’re craving coffee or tea from exotic corners of the world, or just seeking a peaceful escape from all the city buzz.

Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota.pl.

Open daily 10:00-20:00. Equipped with

Cocktails

Le Chocolat (D5) ul. Żurawia 26, tel. 22 745 1071, www.lechocolat.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. This chic emporium is the realisation of one couples desire to offer top-quality chocolates that challenge the palate of the discerning fan. Inspired by the chocolate boutiques of Paris, over twenty different brands from a dozen countries are available. Handmade pralines and truffles, displayed almost like jewels, come in a rainbow of fillings, from coconut to cherries, mint to almonds.

*

Leniviec (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 22 350 77 77.

Finally open (just as we went to press), and further evidence that the Wilcza/Poznańska crossroad might, just might, become the next >>

Quality

Book parties with us

www.paparazzi.com.pl ul. Mazowiecka 12

www.warsawinsider.pl

33

EATING OUT >> big thing. Touting themselves as a place for ‘coffee and culture’ we’ll be back next month to see if they walk the walk.

Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former launderette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusty mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders.

Featuring some delicious homemade meals, this place also gets noticed for its selection of Polish beers – forget the mainstream, enjoy rare find lager from Poland’s more esoteric breweries.

Mam Ochotę ul. Grójecka 75, tel. 22 667 8280, mamochote. blogspot.com. Open 9:00-24:00.

A hip haven in an upcoming area this café gets cool concerts and other such events.

And unlike most cafés in its genre, you don’t get the impression you’ll catch fleas from the seats. Attractive light woods and guest artwork keep this place looking fresh and fun.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com, tel. 22 828 5417. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00.

One of Warsaw’s enduring legends, and as popular at night as it is during the day; media types love it, and you’ll find them pecking on quesadilla type snacks inside a hip, white interior.

Mood Café (D10) Al. Niepodległości 80 (Ogród building), tel. 22 898 3003. Open daily 10:00-21:00.

Adjacent to a restaurant with a mainly Italian menu, this café has all the necessary caffeine options. Their banana and caramel cake is a must!

Mucha nie siada (Praga) ul. Ząbkowska 38, tel. 501 620 669.

Open daily 10:00-22:00. This friendly little café is a relatively new arrival, and as one of the only truly kid-friendly locales in the neighborhood, it’s a welcome addition. Has WiFi, a cheerful air and a menu of soups, bruschetta and gourmet coffee.

My Baby Café ul. Nowoursynowska 147, tel. 22 412 5594, www.mybabycafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, Sun 12:00-20:00. A bright and airy café serving good food and great coffee at reasonable prices. Downstairs is the Holy

34

Grail – shiny new toys, a mini kitchen for the girls, a tool bench for the boys, and a large playhouse (real doorbell and all!). They even provide a nanny at no extra cost! Paradise for kids and heaven for Mums.

Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D3) Nowy Świat 63, tel. 22 505 6696, www.nowywspanialyswiat.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. All life is here, from environmental radicals to theater bigwigs, and while it helps to look like a political activist, it’s become increasingly popular with the more standard Nowy Świat crowd. Lectures, DJs, exhibitions and screenings mean no night is the same.

Pędzący Królik (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 826 0245. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00, Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:0023:00. Could Pędzący Królik be any more charming? It’s got a gorgeous view of the Theater Square and great desserts. Indulge in a carafe of the reasonably-priced house red and enjoy the great food and service.

Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30.

An attractive Saska café decked with pale white colors, and steel lights overhead.

Service can be frustrating, and some call the food overpriced, factors which are offset by a high street location: perfect for a spot of people watching.

Saint Honore (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 20/22, tel. 508 143 987, ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers), www.saint-honore.pl.

Open 8:00-21:00. Accept no imitation, here’s the best bakery around. And aside from fresh baguette sandwiches, find authentically French cakes, croissants and pastries. No piekarnia can come even close.

Same Fusy (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, tel. 22 635 9014, www.samefusy.pl Open daily 11:00-23:00.

A must for café junkies. There are over 100 teas (ranging from the tame to the bizarre) to choose from.

Sklep z Kanapkami (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 11. Open Mon- Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. A big selection of hot and cold sandwiches served on tasty, filling ciabatta bread to eat in or take out. Also soups, salads, pierogi, fresh juices, and even muesli. The prices are very reasonable for this neck of the woods.

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

Słodki… Słony (D6) ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. 22 622 4934. Open Mon 11:00-24:00; Tue.-Sun 10:00-24:00.

Sumptuously designed by Magda Gessler, Poland’s alpha restaurateur, the place has a homely, distinctly feminine feel. Recommended are the intensively creamy pistachio pie and Pavlova, as well as a small selection of equally delectable main courses.

Szpilka (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 22 628 9132.

Open 24hrs. The days when Szpilka stood on the leaderboard of nightlife are long gone, but that’s not to say it’s not worth dropping in. The food osciallates in quality, but the location alone attracts a healthy stream of cafe hoppers and pub crawlers.

Starbucks (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 62 (check website for other locations), tel. 22 829 4021, www.starbucks.pl. Open Mon-Thur 7:3021:30; Fri-Sat 7:30-23:00; Sun 9:00-21:30.

It had to happen. The Starbucks invasion is well under way. First it was Nowy Świat, now the rest of Warsaw is under attack.

Decent coffee, but it’s yet to entirely imitate the standards they’re known for.

Steff Cafe (F6) ul. Jazdów 1, tel. 507 286 136. Open Sun-Thurs 10:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00.An intellectual looking cafe in one of the outbuildings

by Zamek Ujazdowski. A limited selection of drinks and snacks is offset by a horizontal atmosphere and an adjoining bookstore filled with arty, coffee table tomes.

Tel Aviv (D5) ul. Poznańska 11, tel. 22 621 1128, www.tel-aviv.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:30-22:00; Fri 8:30-midnight; Sat 10:00-midnight; Sun 10:00-22:00. One high-profile Jewish visitor described the food as ‘vile’. So maybe leave the humus to others, enjoy instead a cool, indigo-colored, pop-art style space with Israeli music and hard-to-find beers.

To Lubię (C1) ul. Freta 10, tel. 22 635 9023, www.tolubie.pl. Open daily 10:00-22:00.

The perfect place (with loads of charm and wonderful owners) to spend hours with friends while working your way through their delicious menu. The basket of cookies comes highly recommended.

Tok Café (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 621 7799,

CAFES/WINE BARS www.tokcafe.pl. Open daily 7:00-22:00.

Perfect music for Monday mornings. Great sandwiches, salads, hot meals and a mouth- watering selection of goodies for your sugar fix.

TUTU Music Bar (Ursynów) Al. KEN 95 (near metro Stokłosy), tel. 22 251 3274, www.tutu.waw.pl.

Open daily 13:00-last guest. TUTU Music Bar is the first smooth jazz bar in Warsaw’s Ursynów district. Its name comes from the album that Miles Davis recorded in the 80’s with Polish jazzman Michał Urbaniak.

Vespa Café (D6) ul. Armii Ludowej 14 (PWC building), tel. 22 825 5775. Open Mon-Fri 7:30-19:00.

A chic, comfortable, sexy space inspired by 60’s Italy in the lobby of the PWC office building. Unlimited free internet access and plenty of sockets make this the ideal spot for a mobile office.

Wrzenie Świata ul. Gałczyńskiego 7, tel. 22 828 4998.

Open daily 9:00-22:00. This café/bookshop doubles as the events room for the Institute of Reportage, so it’s scant surprise to learn the regulars are armed to the teeth with notebooks and macs. Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars.

colonnades outside, this is guaranteed to be the hit of the summer. Pandering to the hipsters and trendies, you’d expect this sort of place in Hoxton, London.

Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 831 3443, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-midnight; Sun 13:00-17:00. Located just outside the Old Town, this minimalist wine bar is a great place for a date. Wines from top European makers are impressive and the prices are very decent. BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Wine Bar” Winner Esencja Smaku (D9) ul. Odolańska 10, tel. 22 845 0944, www.esencjasmaku.pl. A small bistro characterized by a casual décor and a laid-back atmosphere. Includes a seasonal menu of light dishes.

Guccio Domagoj (Żoliborz) ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 392 7438, www.winachorwackie.pl. Open Tues-Sun 12:00-22:00. A sweet and intimate little place run by a charismatic Croatian, who stocks a huge variety of wines from his homeland.

Very reasonably priced.

Joseph’s Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, Żywiciel (Żoliborz) tel. 22 320 2989, pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 322 8228, www.josephwinebar.pl. www.zywiciel.pl. Open daily 9:00-23:00.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This newlyThis hipster café has gained a solid following opened restaurant, bar and wine shop thanks to its broad menu of breakfast choices. features great atmosphere and amiable staff.

Casual, relaxing atmosphere, enhanced by the Don’t come here for a quick dinner. Instead, art hanging on Żywiciel’s brick walls. come here to drink the wine and savor the rich and inventive meals. Service is slow, but rightly so, leaving guests with just enough time to regain their appetite for seconds.

C.K. Oboźna Cafe Bar (E3) Being firmly tucked away from the center in a ul. Oboźna 9, tel. 22 826 8317. Open Mon-Fri renovated factory allows you to easily whittle 8:30-last guest; Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun away the hours.

10:00-last guest. This slick wine bar just off Krakowskie Przedmieście has plumped up its Jung & Lecker (C5) offer with all day breakfasts (zł.9.90, coffee ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, or tea included) happy hours (12:00-16:00, www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 19:00-22:00) and sports broadcasts. Great, 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine simple food and excellent wines from Austria bar on ul.Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, and beyond. café-style chic. The locale offers daily specials that feature two four-course menus. The Charlotte (D6) shops’ wines are sourced directly from 15 pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open Mon- wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, RheinhesFri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00sen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

22:00. Further proof of Zbawiciela’s rising star is Charlotte, a trendy boulangerie/wine La Passion du Vin (C4) bar. With seating spilling out underneath the ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0495,

wine bars

www.winnica.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Located in the Złote Tarasy shopping center, this chic wine bar features wines from France, South America, Israel, Italy and Australia. Sample some fine wine or treat yourself to the buy-one-get-one-free- lunch deal accompanied by a perfectlymatched wine.

Magazyn Butelek (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 412 3124.

Open daily noon-last guest. Sample wine from various regions in this laid-back wine joint. Treat yourself to some lunchtime specials or nibble on some generously portioned pincho and tapas. Great Argentine beef and international specialties.

Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Some call it the best wine bar in Warsaw, others the best in Poland. Either way, this place hits the right notes with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu, old and new world wines and a chic warehouse design filled to bursting with crates and boxes.

Vinobilia w Rogatce (E7) Pl. Unii Lubelskiej 1, tel 022 423 4904, www.vinobilia.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 14:00-21:00. Run by Frenchmen and set in a pre-war building. Choose among 12 different varieties of wine from all over France and nibbles.

Vinoteka 13 + Wine Bar (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7407, www.vinoteka13.pl.

Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This premium wine shop and bar is tucked away in the beautiful Likus Concept Store. It sports a wide selection of fine wines from Italy, France, Austria, and Spain, along with some stronger spirits and Cuban cigars at a varied price range. Also serves a tasting menu of cheeses and deli meats.

Vintage (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, www.korkociag.pl, tel. 22 625 4197. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last

www.warsawinsider.pl

>>

35

EATING OUT >> guest; Sun 14:00-last guest. Korkociąg is now Vintage – the décor is slightly gaudy but the impressive Hungarian wine list has stretched to include great (though pricey) selections from the rest of Europe.

Winokracja (B2) ul. Karmelicka 19, www.winokracja.com, tel. 22 838 9015. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00.

The interior is rather low-key, but the great selection of Italian and Spanish wines more than makes up for it. A free wine tasting is held a few times a month.

Winiarnia Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 2327, www.winiarnia-kotlownia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Bricks and girders lend a factory feel, while an Italian influenced menu poses plenty of dilemmas. Sunshine pours in through huge vertical windows, bathing this wine kingdom in plenty of light.

Belvedere Restaurant (F8)

ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold and black interiors. $$$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best European Cuisine” Winner

*

Winowajca (Praga) ul. Inżynierska 1, tel 503 083 450, www.winowajca.org. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-midnight; Sat 12:00-last customer, Sun 14:00-22:00. With an impossibly cool bar and a simple menu that changes daily (try the pumpkin soup), this new kid on the block promises to become a favourite hangout for the artistic types that haunt the neighborhood.

Biała Gęś ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www. bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese. And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 460 for four). As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$

Wrzenie Świata (E4) ul. Gałczyńskiego 7, tel. 22 828 49998.

Open daily 9:00-22:00. This café/bookshop is aimed at promoting documentaries and reportage in all forms of media: books, film and photography. But don’t think the place is stuffy because of these heavy duty intentions; find big windows, a cool décor and a crowd tapping into iPhones and Macs.

Bistro Przekąski Zakąski (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open daily 24hr. An eat-while-you-stand venue serving up eight złoty bites specifically designed to act as emergency stomach lining for a pre/postparty crowd of vodka sinking glamour cats. $

polish

Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ BEST WAWA 2010 Capital Living Award Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E5)

Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.kprb.pl/amber. Open for lunch Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, Dinner Mon-Fri 18:00-22:00,

Sat 19:00-22:30 The Amber Room restaurant is spectacularly situated directly opposite Łazienki Park in the Pałac Sobańskich, a prewar villa beautifully renovated some ten years ago. the addition of Executive Chef Jacek Grochowina has upped the ante substantially.

Under his tutelage the restaurant snagged all of the top awards in the 2010 Wine & Food Noble Night. $$$

36

Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics. $

*

Cuda Wianki ul. Przekorna 15 (Powsin), tel. 22 498 1508.

Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:0022:00. Standing at the foot of Kabaty Forest, the interiors here are simply adorable, and heavily influenced by folk art. Co-owned by a tennis pro and his parents, this family have sought to develop their own menu, based on standard Polish fare, but with twists and turns

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

*

updates

they have gathered through prior experience.

The results are excellent, especially the herring. $ Dekanta (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, tel. 22 622 4594.

Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat 13:00-last guest. A golden-oldies-themed eatery with a good grill and serious cocktails. Be sure to try their most popular dishes: duck and golonka. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.pl.

Open daily 12:00-last guest.

Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Dyspensa (E5-6) ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 22 629 9989, www.dyspensa.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

The menu in this homey, elegant restaurant comprises fine traditional Polish fare with foreign influences and boasts an excellent reputation for both cuisine and service. $$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight.

If it’s the all-singing, all-dancing village experience you’re after then consider this place. Clad in wood and rural debris the food is what you expect: bulky portions of farmyard kill. $$ Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie (C1) ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, tel. 22 887 6520.

Open 10:00-23:00. Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie (Polish Flowers) specialises in Polish cuisine and is known for dishing out some very generous portions. The placki ziemniaczane and kopytka come highly recommended. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last >> guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Delicious

EATING OUT >> traditional Polish dishes such as golonka, żurek, karkówka and kaszanka, served in hearty portions in very eclectic interiors. $$ Honoratka (C2) ul. Miodowa 14, 022 635 0397, www.honoratka.com.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. This place has been around since 1826 and has played host to many famous guests, including Chopin. Now Honoratka serves delicious traditional Polish dishes and international courses. Live music every day from 18:00. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Bathed in banners and propaganda the Red Hog is your one-stop shop for some socialist socializing. Dine on ‘Brezhnev dumplings’ and ‘capitalist soup’ while Cold War bigwigs gaze from the paintings above. $$ Karczma Słupska (G6) ul. Czerniakowska 127, tel. 22 841 4552.

Open daily 11:00-22:00. A jewel-of-arestaurant. After 26 years of steady operation, the charming Polish tradition and excellent food still pulls people in. $ Karmnik (D1) ul. Piwna 4A, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00last guest. There’s a new reason to go to old town, and that’s Karmnik. What was once a pokey tourist restaurant has been reinvented as a hip haunt for cool cats. The menu is decent, basic Polish, but it’s the art-mosphere that gets people coming back. Expect a variety of events going off inside vaulted interiors that are frequently full. $ Literacka (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 87/89, tel. 22 635 8995. Open 11:00-24:00. The food is decent and prices are very reasonable, but the service leaves something to be desired. With a great view of the Old Town, the location is choice. $ MG Eat Gessler (D4) ul. Chmielna 32. Open 10:00-23:00.

Now MG is not your signature Gessler venture; lacking the OTT interiors and flamboyant prices this is a clear departure from what we’re used to. In fact, you couldn’t even call it a restaurant, more a bio café/deli. The ciabbattas are great, and the FroYo outstanding. $ Na Zielnej (C4) ul. Zielna 37, tel. 22 338 6333, www.nazielnej.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00;

38

12:00-22:00. Earning plaudits from all corners of the press is Na Zielnej, a dining diva who sources only the finest Polish produce. Split into a restaurant and (marginally cheaper) bistro, the menu has had foodies raving, and includes divine dishes such as pheasant’s breast. And the interiors hit the mark as well – making use of the space vacated by KOM, Na Zielnej touts an edgy, engaging design of bare bricks and violet flourishes. $$$ Nowa La Boheme (D2) pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 692 0681, www.laboheme.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. The ingredients here may be Polish, but the exquisite presentation and chic interiors are still decidedly continental.

Well-suited for business lunches. $$ Pierogarnia (D2) ul. Bednarska 28/30, tel. 22 828 0392, www.pierogarnianabednarskiej.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. A perfect place to bring a foreigner hungry for a taste of Poland.

Pierogarnia serves a whole range of sweet and savory dumplings, with plenty of vegetarian options. $ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3-5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. An extensive repertoire of traditional Polish foods that you know, from Jewish-style carp to duck with apples. The place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The service is mixed, and occasionally hostile, but prices are low. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0001:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Towering, bumper portions of animals & veg plus low-cut prices keep this place rammed, while frothing Pilsner mugs and a circulating mountain band add an element of beery, good humor. $ Polka (D2) ul. Świętojańska 2, www.restauracjapolka.pl, tel. 22 635 3535. Open 12:00-23:00. Colorful pastel interiors inspired by Polish folk art set the tone for this place. The servings are small, but the food is top notch. $$

Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest. It isn’t just the impressionable tourists and new-in-town expense account communities that are swept away by Różana’s charms. It features starchy white table linen, floral pieces, flickering candles and live piano solos to a posse of attentive waiters. The prices are fair and the menu is a thoughtful selection of dishes from “Old Poland.” BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Polish Cuisine” Winner Restauracja Staromiejska (D1) pl. Zamkowy 15/19 in the Old Town Square, www.restauracjastaromiejska.pl, tel. 22 831 0259. Open 10:00-midnight.

This restaurant serves true, traditional Polish delights. The duck stands out especially, crisp and glazed with cranberries, apples and what-not. To finish, try the wonderful szarlotka with whipped cream and ice cream. $$ Restauracja Warszawska (E6) ul. Chopina 5a, tel. 22 628 8140, www.restauracjawarszawska.pl. Open 12:00last guest. Quite a mixed experience: the chicken liver salad is a delight but the zł.125 roast-suckling pig is more than disappointing… $$ Rialto’s Restaurant (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto Boutique Hotel), tel. 22 584 8771. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-22:30; Sat-Sun 7:00-22:30. Bathed in toffee and vanilla hues, the restaurant in this Art Deco hotel has a solid claim as one of the top meals around. The pan-seared duck breast with honey pumpkin and figs is every bit as inspired as it sounds. $$$

Smaki Warszawy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 22 621 8268, www.smakiwarszawy.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Well-known on the Warsaw scene as a delightful Polish restaurant (try the lamb, for sure), Smaki Warszawy is also renowned Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) for its cakes. Smiling and welcoming staff Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, pour amazing lattes and serve up slices of www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. fantastic pistachio cream cake. $$ The turn-of-the-century décor brings with it an indelible mark of years gone by. But even Stary Dom (E12) if the food is only satisfactory, the wine list is ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, pretty nice. $$ www.restauracjastarydom.pl. Open 12:00-

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

POLISH/AFRICAN/AMERICAN 23:00. This “old house” serves good old traditional Polish food. The atmospheric main hall features high ceilings and eye-catching wooden beams; mains include rabbit, duck (the house special) and pork cutlets, while the desserts are divine. What sets this place apart from other Polish restaurants are the prices. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians.

Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$ U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Literally translated as “With the Cooks,” this is just what you get. Diners eat in the old kitchen and staff area of the grande dame Hotel Europejski. Served at the table straight from the pot or skillet, there is always a little extra for the hungry. It’s a favourite of the local art, banking and university crowds. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Lunch Deal” Winner U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www.uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. The place is named after a tubby fictional Czech soldier,

but the grub is hearty Polish, portioned out in size XXXL at bargain prices. At zł. 15 per litre of beer, the mugs are constantly refilled to wash down the feast of sausages, ribs and roast pork knuckles. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Dinner Deal” Winner Villa Nuova (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 23 (near the Wilanów Palace), tel. 22 885 1502, www.villanuova.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

Out of the way, but serving trad Polish cuisine with a gourmet twist, and beautifully presented, gorgeously rich desserts. $$$ Winiarnia i Gospoda nad Jeziorem (Józefów) ul. Nadwiślańska 96B, tel. 667 770 790, www.nadjeziorem.pl. Open Tues-Fri 14:0021:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00. One of our favorite hidden gems for a quaint afternoon or evening away from the city. Just about twenty minutes outside of the center, this lodge-style restaurant specializes in fine wines from Bordeaux and traditional Polish food. $$

african

Authenticity doesn’t only stem from the Cameroonian owner. Home Africa Bar is like an African film set in terms of interior, and food-wise, it offers traditional yams and plaintains, as well as ‘I-dare-you’ items like goat’s head. $

*

La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. The most central of Warsaw’s African options, and quite possibly the best. The Nigerian chef here has 35 years kitchen experience, and his menu includes suspects like goat’s head and stews. Good luck with the gizzard though. $$

american & tex-mex

Amigos American Steakhouse (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 22 629 3969, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Sometimes all you need is a good steak to make everything okay. This is the place to find one. $$

Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057. Open 10:00-23:00. Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $

Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl.

Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large- screen TV. $$

Home Africa Bar (Wola) ul. Górczewska 67. Open 14:00-last guest.

Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700,

>>

COME HUNGRY AND ENJOY LIFE’S SIMPLE PLEASURES THE RELAUNCHED DOWNTOWN RESTAURANT AND STEAKHOUSE IS OPEN FROM SEPTEMBER 5TH! InterContinental Warszawa Ul. Emilii Plater 49,

00-125 Warszawa,

Tel +48 22 328 8740, e-mail: downtown@ihg.com

www.downtown.com.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

39

EATING OUT >> www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00.

Recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, the two floor HRC boasts Warsaw’s best cheeseburger and a cool staff of skater boys and rock girls. Points of interest include rock’n’roll swag from Hendrix and Madonna, as well as regular live music. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, www.jeffs.pl.

Open 10:00-24:00. Warsaw’s best breakfast aside, head to Jeff’s for mega-size portions of American classics of the burger-ribs variety. Find their twin branch in Galeria Mokotów, along with an identical roadhouse design of blinking neon. $ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Breakfast Deal” Winner Mississippi Blues (H4) ul. Meksykańska 3, tel. 605 887 857. Open Sun-Thur 12:00-20:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00.

Set down a side street in Saska, Zippy Blues

is tiny, and we fully anticipate that being a problem once word gets out just how good it is. Decorated sparingly, the menu here includes homemade sauces, bread baked on-site, tasty Koreb beer as well as mains that number fantastic burgers and ribs of legend. $ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. After a summer sabbatical, SPE are back, touting a new edgy look that makes use of concrete colors and exposed pipes. The spicy, sizzlin’ Tex-Mex is fab, and added incentive provided by the rousing rock bands. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 29 (Atrium Plaza), tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are hit-andmiss, but the burgers always on-point inside

HOT FIND

this timeless tribute to the American way. $$ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest. An Insider favourite, principally thanks to brick-thick burritos that are all the better when layered with molten lava-like salsa. The barometer hits fever pitch on weekends when live bands entertain a mixed bag of jiggling ex-pats and lubricated students. $$

asian & indian

Annapurna (B5) ul. Twarda 56, tel. 22 409 4400. Open 11:3022:00. Bland, sterile interiors have ceded way for typical curryhouse furnishings, lending a real authenticity to one of Warsaw’s best curries. The vindaloo hits a red-hot emergency level that’s unrivaled in town, and the offer extends to Thai, Nepalese and a sprinkling of Chinese.

Food, libation, atmosphere and joviality. We all deserve and need to nourish the body as well as the soul – and the Luncheonettes are here to help you do just that.

“ The Boathouse harbors food, like ships, from many countries and no one leaves hungry”

he Insider’s Luncheonettes are dedicated to bringing you an honest opinion about the establishments that serve up a mid-day meal in Warsaw. They (yes, not just one) will meet, eat and grade as a group. It’s a tough job, but these folks are up for it. As credentials for the task, they are well-qualified and knowledgeable in the areas of food preparation and travel (with its accompanying need for hardy stomachs and an adventurous, broad palate), reasonably tolerant of the foibles of restaurant management and, above all, they are good eaters. They believe in a holistic approach to the art of eating.

They are also anonymous.

First on the chopping block (so to speak): the Boathouse. Situated on the other side of the river, the Boathouse is a boulder in the sometimes churning seas of the restaurant business. Sporting a smartly fashioned layered terrace, outdoor grill and children’s playground, not to mention a well-planned indoor dining room with large windows and a few nooks for bigger, private gatherings, it is nestled in the crook of an intersection off the bridge, set low enough on the riverside to cast away offending street noise.

On our picture perfect day, the waiters were in best form. The lunch menu is expansive providing different levels of diversions aimed at meeting your hunger pangs at any particular time of day. Appetizers, huge salads, pastas, mains, even tapas. The Boathouse harbors food, like ships, from many countries and no one leaves hungry. We nibbled on Spanish Patatas Brava (A+ for presentation) and sipped at gazpacho (almost a meal in itself – thick and rich) along with a French Vegetable Tian. A less energized Italian Pasta al Forno needed a bit more zest, paling next to the mediterranean Goat Cheese Salad, which had the whole table digging in.

The Boathouse was a good first go for the Lunchingettes. Would we recommend it – unanimously yes. Would we return? Again yes. Service, ambiance and presentation, all thumbs up. Food? Needs a little work on the sauces, to provide the pizzazz a place like the Boathouse deserves, but overall good.

The Boathouse Wał Międzeszyński 389A, tel. 22 616 3223, www.boathouse.pl.

40

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF THE BOATHOUSE

T

AMERICAN/ASIAN Arti (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 121/123, tel. 22 626 9002, www.restauracjaarti.pl. Open daily 11:0022:30. An exhaustive selection of largely excellent Indian dishes inside a low-cost interior in the center of town. Better surroundings but the same quality are found in their ul. Francuska operation across the water. $ Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120.

Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Bar Sajgon ul. Bracka 18. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00.

A cult budget eatery once found in the defunct Russian Market. Two years after the original went pop they’re back with a neat looking effort on Bracka. Decorated with palms and mint colors, this double decker restaurant gains particular approval for its pho dishes. $ Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. ul. Twarda 42 (off Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl.

Open daily 12:00-22:00. Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ‘95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinesestyle ribs. $$

*

Bombaj Masala (B3) ul. Starościńska 10/12, tel. 22 392 6475, www.bombajmasala.pl. A tiny backstreet curry cave in which guests sit shoulder-toshoulder while pots clang in the distance.

The food is top quality, and the prices fair.

And those looking for something a little more high end should swerve this and instead check their new venue on Jana Pawła (see p.32).

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $

Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:00-22:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system.

Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster.

The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$ Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00.

The spring rolls may “taste Polish,” but more authentic are the Cantonese loin in oyster sauce, the Tshingis Chan Mongolian Grill (all-you-can-eat for zł.65) and the succulent Peking Duck. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. Another Vietnamese joint, this one notable for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. At 2 zlot per pop, there’s no excuse to miss it. $ Dziki Ryż (multiple locations) ul. Puławska 24b, tel. 22 848 0060, pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 839 2540, ul. Wspólna 35, Tel. 22 628 1825, www.dzikiryz.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Varied Asian cuisine with dishes from India, Thailand, China and Japan in a very charming setting. All locations of Dziki Ryż are popular and you’ll most likely need a reservation. $ Dżonka (D5) ul. Hoża 54, tel. 22 621 5015. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat & Sun 11:00-17:00. You say Thai and he says Chinese. You say somewhere graceful and he says nowhere showy. You say not too pricey and he says not too shoestring. Then sail into Dżonka. $ Galeria Bali & Buddha Bar (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 828 6771, www.galeriabali.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. As a lavish gallery and restaurant in one, Galeria Bali offers an extensive menu based on exotic seafood, vegetables, spices and other specialites imported straight from Indonesia.

Boasts an entirely Balinese kitchen staff and genuine artifacts from Bali, Burma and Java. $$ Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00.

When the service isn’t clanking around,

dropping things or misplacing orders, they’re weaving between tables delivering what’s a definite candidate for Poland’s top curry. Inconsistencies abound, but the Madras is superb and the interiors chic, dark and moody. $ Herezja (A3) ul. Chłodna 35/37, tel. 503 074 175, www.herezja.com. Open Sun-Thurs 12:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-3:00. This exotic locale lies off the beaten track in Warsaw’s central Wola district. A seasonal labyrinth of rooms decked out with elegant furnishings from all over Asia. Great for private parties.

Hong Kong House (A6) ul. Filtrowa 70 (pl. Narutowicza), tel. 22 658 0068. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Good food at affordable prices, cozy interior, and a staff whose friendly attitude makes up for their small mistakes. $$ India Cookhouse (D4) ul. Złota 9, tel. 22 499 0990, www.indiach.com. Open 11:00-23:00.

A highly decent offering with some spicy balti dishes and an agreeable butter chicken.

There’s a café cool look here, with top-tobottom windows and a stark white design; no scented joss sticks or gold plate Buddhas here. A promising start somewhat tempered by inexperienced servers. $ India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www.indiacurry.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

The most upmarket Indian choice in Warsaw, and with prices to prove it. But they take the competition seriously, and have upped the game accordingly. Start with a tomato tea soup, before checking out new additions like the mutton pepper fry. Never, ever short of excellent. $$ Katmandu (C5) ul. Wspólna 50/52, tel. 22 622 0026. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00.

Nepalese, Thai and Indian dishes inside a no-effort, bare bones interior. But the curries are good, and occasionally excellent; set fire to your tonsils with a chicken madras. $ Lemongrass Oriental Restaurant & Bar (E6) Al.Ujazdowskie 8, tel. 22 696 3300, www.lemongrass.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sunday brunch 12:00-16:00.

Instead of the ubiquitous pasta station, you

www.warsawinsider.pl

41

EATING OUT >> can order your soup starter to taste and watch it be put together. The Peking Duck station offers customized oh-so-thin pancakes rolled around succulent slices of the meat, spring onions, cucumber and palm sugar sauce.

Ideal for business meets. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Brunch Deal” Winner Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, www.lovinghut.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00, Sun 12:00-20:00. At first glance you may dismiss it as another Vietnamese greasy spoon. Big mistake. It turns out this is the Warsaw branch of a global chain backed by a spiritual master (Chiang Hai). The reading material may look a bit cultish, but the food is delicious. $ Maharaja India (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily, unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is amongst the best in the city. $$ Maharaja Thai (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501.

Open daily 12:30-23:00. This Thai restaurant in the Old Town is one of the most authentic and most romantic. Great green curries in a tucked-away, magical location.

Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666,

42

www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 While it caters to a party crowd in the evening, this place is run

by Nepalese chef Prakash and features a menu of authentic treats throughout the day and evening. Also offers delivery through its India Express catering service. $ Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl.

Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $ The Oriental (E5) The Sheraton Hotel, ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 18:00-23:00; Sun 12:0016:00 (brunch). Dark, intimate and very quiet hotel restaurant serving Thai, Philippine, Singaporean and Japanese dishes. The waiters are well versed in what the menu offers, so trust their recommendations. $$$ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00.

Papaya’s uncluttered, contemporary club-style space is classy with hints of luxury imparted by the strategically placed, top-notch cognac

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

and sparkling wine. The Pan-Asian menu favors Thai and Japanese, but there’s also Chinese dim sum and Peking Duck. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Asian Cuisine” Winner Pekin (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 4804, www.restauracjapekin.pl. Open daily 12:0023:00. For a culinary trip to Beijing, you need only go as far as Pekin. The interior is a bit basic, but the food is usually very good. $$ Q-Club (E6-7) Hyatt Regency Hotel, ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-23:00.

Fresh and funky Asian-themed menu, Q-Club offers a variety of gourmet buffet spreads from across the globe. $$ Royal India (B3) ul. Jana Pawła II 45A, lokal 43, tel. 22 487 7077, www.royalindia.waw.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. They didn’t cover themselves in glory when they first launched, but what was once regarded as one of Warsaw’s worse curries has shown signs of surprising improvement. The butter chicken gets good marks here, even if the still, solemn atmosphere doesn’t. $$ Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, www.saffronspices.pl. Open 11:00-20:00. Disregarding the wires sticking out of walls and the builders roaming about, what looks like a construction site is actually a highly good curry. The menu is more limited than most, but includes a great murgh tikka

ASIAN/BALKAN/FRENCH/GREEK masala. If you’re not a fan of power drill acoustics give it a couple of weeks till their fit-out is finished. $ Sayam (Konstancin) ul. Sienkiewicza 5, tel. 22 756 3343, www.sayam.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00.

A tropical treasure in the heart of Konstancin – Sayam serves up some satisfying pan-Asian cuisine in thoroughly fresh, modern interiors.

The summer garden is the perfect place to while away the weekends for adults and kids alike. Definitely try the sticky ribs and spring rolls. Also offers cooking classes. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Newcomer” Winner Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, www.sunanta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Small but perfectly formed interiors and a menu that’s widely hailed by Thai devotees. The green beef curry is outstanding. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Tien-Tien (C2) ul. Długa 29, tel./fax 022 635 3888.

Open daily 10:00-22:00. A stained and seedy haunt that will look immediately familiar to readers who’ve strayed before inside Warsaw’s Vietnamese joints. Some rate the food - we don’t. $ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307. Mon-Fri 9:30-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version.

Tobaya (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 58, tel. 22 520 2222, www.tobaya.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Inside it’s like a trip to the Far East. ToBaYa stands for To – for Tokyo because you’ll find great sushi and claypots here (same proprietor as So-An sushi on Koszykowa St.), Ba – for Bangkok and the flavorful dishes of Thailand, and Ya – for Yakarta, with rare Indonesian culinary treats. Top choice for two: Pla Prik-Waan a.k.a royal gilthead baked in hot-and-sour sauce.

Yummy (D5) ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. As the name notes, guests can look forward to tasty Asian fare with a strong Vietnamese accent.

Interiors are modern and minimal, and a welcome withdrawal from the sleazy style common in most Asian haunts. The Peking duck is a strong starter, and the Pho soups are fab. $

balkan & russian

Banja Luka (E8) ul. Puławska 101, tel. 22 854 0782, www.banjaluka.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00.

Summer’s back, and with it one of the best gardens around. Enjoy a variety of dishes from Croatia and Serbia inside interiors typical of the hunter’s hut style. It’s a bustling place mind, and reservations are advised. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul.

Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040, www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00.

This is one of those places that you enter knowing straight away that you want more.

Try the bacon-and-tomato-scented Solanka soup and the pielmieni “Moskiewskie.” $ Mała Gruzja (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 40, tel. 660 880 724, www.mala-gruzja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

Indulge in great Gregorian dishes in this quaint restaurant. The saciwi walnut sauce is sure to make a lasting impression, though the wines leave something to be desired. $

french

Bistro de Paris – Michel Moran (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 0107, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00. Bistro de Paris has always won the highest accolades from reviewers ranging from the Insider to Michelin. Here the food is exquisite, dynamic and flawless; whilst the service itself shines through all on its own. Perfect for dinner with the boss or wining and dining clients. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Service” Winner

*

L’Arc ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www.larc. pl. Open 10:00-last guest. An elegant white/ black eatery with elaborate plate presentations and crustaceans lurking in the water tank – the house specialty is lobster, and they’ve got it to a tee. $$

*

La Table ul. Nowogrodzka 38, tel. 22 622 9214, www.latable.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, 17:00-22:00; Sat 15:00-22:00.

La Table looks classy, with rich, dark colors and the kind of design currently in favor with VIP rooms and cocktail bars. Bossing the kitchen is Thomas Rubio, and he’s designed a menu that’s easy to navigate and even easier to enjoy. The desserts are heaven but the mussels are the highlight – and served in traditional manner alongside French fries. $$ Le Petite France (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 622 9646, www.lapetitefranceneostrada.pl. Has a very respectable selection of cheese – from soft to hard varieties. $$ Prowansja (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 621 4258, www.prowansja.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. No need to go to a French cottage, the calming atmosphere and great food is right here. The dishes are very imaginative in their combination of various flavors. $$ Saint Jacques (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. 22 620 2531, www.saintjacques.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Warsaw’s had a long and lingering liaison with France, yet the cuisine remains under- represented. Less ceremonial than its competitors, this bistro plays the right notes with an intimate interior sprinkled with street signs and life-size black and whites of distant day Paris. The lamb shank is a winner, and the mussels do more than enough to distract from the construction catastrophe clunking outside.

Willa Borówka Hotel & Restaurant (Milanówek) ul. Królowej Jadwigi 5, tel. 22 425 3881, www.willaborowka.pl. Restaurant opens Mon 17:00-last guest; Tue-Sun 12:00- last guest. A wonderland outside of Warsaw. This beautifully-restored manor offers a wonderfully rich atmosphere and wonderful Belgian and French cuisine with delicious beers like the Blanche de Namur. $$

greek & middle eastern

Bar Turecki “Efes”(H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill >> food and salads. $

www.warsawinsider.pl

43

EATING OUT >> El Greco (B3) ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. 22 654 0458. Open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. The grapevine was right – there’s a new Greek in town and it’s the best of the bunch; the souvlaki are ace and the interiors modern, intimate and a pleasant departure from the Greek caricature. Plate smashing allowed and encouraged. $$ Le Cedre (F1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$

Santorini (Saska Kępa) ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Forgetting the rather dubious exterior, Santorini – decorated like a Greek fishermans tavern – remains one of the top restaurants of its ethnic class. The lamb chops are fab, but for a real plate licking experience order the milfei as dessert. $$ Zorba (Ursynów) ul. Dereniowa 6, tel. 22 648 4589, www.zorba.pl Open daily 12:00-23:00.

The décor is OTT, but there’s little to complain about when it comes to the food. Excellent appetizers – zesty pikilia, stuffed grape leaves, meat cutlets and some of the best fried eggplant around. $$$

Lokanta (C4) ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, tel. 22 585 1004, www.lokanta.home.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00last guest. The restaurant has built up its reputation of serving good-quality, traditional Turkish cuisine. The döner kebab will leave you full and happy and is served fast enough at lunchtime to keep up with your schedule.

Now throws Orient-inspired dance parties every weekend for Bangla fans. $$

international & fusion

Maho (Ochota) Al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www.maho.com.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. Found in that office/residential grey zone of Ochota, Maho looks more like a drive-thru burger joint from the outside. So it’s surprising to find some of the best skewered meats in Warsaw in this Turkish locale. Basic interiors but great food and well-stocked deli. $

Babalu (F1) ul. Kłopotowskiego 33, tel. 22 424 6666, www.babalu.pl. Open noon-23:00. Warsaw’s first all-you-can eat locale. You pay zł. 29,99 per person and enjoy a salad and fruit bar, grilled ribs or other meats, a pick-your-owningredients flaming wok, an endless selection of pastas and sauces, dumplings from around the world, reasonable drink prices, and a children’s play area. Catering available too. $

Meltemi (Ochota) Corner of ul. Drawska and ul. Szczęśliwicka, tel. 22 823 9868. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

Serving a nouveau take on Greek, expect presentation over size, but it’s a fine escape from routine whenever you can’t get to the real thing. $$ Samira (C7) Al. Niepodległości 213 (behind the National Library), tel. 22 825 0961, www.samira.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00.

If you make the effort to find it, you’ll spot ambassadors, celebrities and artists scarfing down their excellent Lebanese kofta. Here you will find chickpeas, tahini paste, bulgar wheat,

grape leaves, rose and orange flower water.

Fresh cheese (Lebanese and Bulgarian) can be bought by weight from the deli counter. $

44

Angelo (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 22 622 4454, www.bacio.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:00-last guest; Fri & Sat 11:00-last guest. With a charming folklore interior, the candlelight will lead you into a world of sweet romance.

The delicate antipasti and Italian merlot will certainly ease you into good conversation. $$

Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00- 22:00. For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of riverside parkland – perfect for lazy Sundays with family and friends. Freshly re-opened after a winter break, during which time Chef Luc has traveled the Mediterranean sourcing the best ingredients and snooping out new recipes. $$ Brasserie@ferdy’s (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24 (in the Radisson Hotel),

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

tel. 22 321 8822. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

Vegetarians will go hungry here, but carnivores will be in meaty heaven. Get the blackened chicken with thick-cut Gaucho fries – fantastic. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5)

ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www.butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. The steaks are beyond reproach inside B&W, a light, bright restaurant which you imagine both celebs and marketing execs using – both mammals were present on our visit. And if the butchery part is spot on, so is the wine angle. Trust the service, they know what’s best. $$ C.K. Oberża (D4) ul. Chmielna 28, tel. 22 828 4585, www.ckoberza.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. A wood-looking eatery where towering plates of food present considerable challenge to carnivore appetites – come hungry. All the basic culinary needs are covered, while the Cesarska Deska Mięs features practically every animal to ever come out the wrong end of an abattoir. $$ Deco Kredens (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 826 0660, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest.

Elegant and ornate, but the menu is a tool of deception - the final results are nowhere near as tasty as they sound. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. On Fridays, the Seafood of the World buffet dinner offers diners an unmatched spread of their favorite treats fresh from the sea. Downtown’s menu features an array of tasty dishes prepared by the InterContinental’s new executive chef Thorsten Hoeck. Languorous Sunday Brunch. $$ Esencja Smaku (D9) ul. Odolańska 10, tel. 22 845 0944, www.esencja.pagi.pl. Open daily 11:00-22:00. In a city saturated with sushi, pasta and pierogi, there’s always room for a restaurant that knows and respects its culinary roots, and aims to re-establish the simple sensory pleasures of predominantly local and superlatively fresh seasonal ingredients. $$

>>

EATING OUT >> Flaming & Co. (E6) ul. Chopina 5, tel. 22 628 8140, www.flaming-co.com. Open 7:30-24:00.

Soon celebrating their first birthday, Flaming are being touted as one of the best places in town. In fact, some insiders claim it the best. Find a strong international offer inside interiors that could have been styled by Ralph Lauren. $$ Freta 33 (C1) ul. Freta 33/35, tel. 22 635 0931. Open 12:0023:00. Tasty dishes at reasonable prices.

Enjoy the beautiful view over the New Town Square through floor-to-ceiling windows. The pasta and salads are surprisingly tasty. $$ Fusion (B4) Westin Hotel, Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8631. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-22:30; Sat & Sun 7:00-10:30, 12:00-22:30. A stylish restaurant that’s best recognized for its seriously good brunches.

See for yourself each Sunday, when zł. 165 gets you unlimited access to some top-range F&B. Turn up on Thursday night for a similar offer that’s focused on fish. $$$ Ginger (D4) ul. Zgoda 12, tel. 22 827 3003, www.ginger.com.pl. Open 24hr. The tropical interior would have looked great in the 80’s, nowadays it doesn’t. Who cares – it’s open round-the-clock, and design shortcomings can be overlooked when it’s five in the morning. International menu, with a fusion twist. $$

46

Green Peas ul. Szpitalna 5, tel. 22 826 1985, www.greenpeas.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00.With Ye Goode Foode nuked into touch, it’s been left to Green Peas to wave the eco-flag. Featuring vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free meals, it’s a well-rounded, health conscious offer here – probably the healthiest in the city. Low cal and low cost inside a greenish, cafeteria style space. $ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com. Open 12:00-last guest. Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ Groole (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 52, www.groole.pl.

Open Mon-Thur 12:00-20:00; Fri-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. Good news for the economy diner, Groole serve delicious jacket potatoes in a simple space set through a tight corridor. The choice of fillings is scant, but for price-to-quality it’s impossible to fault. $ H3 Gourmet Burger (C12) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska, www.h3.com.

Open 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00.

Okay, so it’s in a food court, but H3 are a million times superior to the immediate

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

neighbors. Part of a Portuguese chain, bunless burgers come in a variety of choices: including one with an egg on it (eek!). Go for the mushroom one instead. $ Inside (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 695 940 535, www.inside-restaurant.pl. Open daily 10:00-21:00. A new location with quality food that’s affordable and tasty. You can feel the freshness of ingredients in every bite you take and the staff is nice, friendly and professional. If you’re looking for an international fusion of tastes this is the place for you. Visit their website and you will receive zł.10 off of any order exceeding zł.50 (valid Mon-Fri after 15:00 and Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00). $$ Jazz Bistro Gwiazdeczka (D2) ul. Piwna 40, tel. 22 887 8764. Open daily 10:00-last guest ( the kitchen closes at 24:00). With a medieval yet chic décor, this charming restaurant in the Old Town is, among some others, a good choice. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com.

Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00.

Cooking becomes art in La Rotisserie, an impeccable restaurant with a sterling rep.

Bossing it all is Paweł Oszczyk, a doyenne of the local culinary scene, and his interpretations of French cuisine prove second-to-none. $$$

*

updates

*

Likus Concept Store (D3)

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This former bath house is adorned by columns and hand-painted glazed ceramics. A fine menu of fusion fare with an ‘artsy flair’ is guaranteed, with creative desserts to follow with. Over 300 Italian wine labels (not to mention tipples from Spain, France and Austria), as well a selection of cigars make Concept a number one choice for that all important meal. $$$ Love Bagels (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 50, tel. 511 818 957. Open 9:00-22:00, Sun 11:00-21:00. An eat-on-thestreet venture where fresh bagels are handed to customers through a mysterious, little hatch – the New York bagel is spot on. Office delivery as well. $ Marconi (D3) Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1823. Open daily: 6:30-10:30, 12:30-16:30, 18:00-23:00.

Sunday brunch: 12:30-16:30. Sun-kissed and flavorful – the quality at the Bristol’s Mediterranean-style restaurant is just what you’d expect from one of Warsaw’s top hotels – excellent. $$$ Merliniego 5 (E10) Restaurant and Wine Bar, ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad.

Meza Restaurant (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Hotel). Open daily 6:30-23:00. The décor is decent and the service is very good but the food is wonderful – try the fettucini with king prawns in Chopin vodka.

The Meza chocolate cake, warm and oozing liquid fudge is the most delectable bit. $$ Nomia Restaurant (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, tel. 22 831 4379, www.nomia.waw.pl. Open daily 10:00-24:00.

Certainly the sexiest place to grab a bite in the New Town Square. Try the fried oyster mushroom, grilled oscypek or duck in orange sauce with apples. Great mojitos! $$ Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 621 1881. Open 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Are you in a restaurant or inside a book shop?

INTERNATIONAL The mind plays tricks in Opasły, the latest venture from the Kregliccy family (Santorini, Chianti etc). Filled with hardback volumes and newspaper clippings, this trendy Foksal spot features a concise menu that includes chili shrimp. $$ Papu (D9) Al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, www.restauracjapapu.pl. Open daily 10:00last guest. The elegant décor, complimented by fantastic staff, all combine to make this a relaxing and romantic experience. $$$ Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www.passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. The diverse, international menu has in its number some delicious ribs in BBQ sauce. The interiors are pleasant and non-offensive, though pale in comparison when put head-to-head with the garden; a lush sanctuary, it’s one of the best around. $$ Piony Poziomy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter on ul. Oleandrów), tel. 22 406 4496, www.pionypoziomy.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Consisting of creative Mediterranean dishes, the menu is packed with what can only be described as culinary revelations. It’s got a welcome atmosphere, something squared off by relaxing background music and a friendly staff. The food is excellent, not a weak point to criticize, and perfectly complimented by a price/quality ratio that’s too good for words.

Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, Frida Restaurant - but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed.

An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Porto Praga (F1) ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:001:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00.

Bathed in rich, ruby shades and Art Deco swirls, PP looks classy and elegant yet never too formal. Different species of Warsaw life

happily co-exist here, enjoying a revamped menu courtesy of chef Marcin Wojtczak.

The cocktails are amazing as well – Bloody Mary is our standard bar-ometer, and here it passes the test with flying colors. $$$ Prima Vera (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 406 2345, www.prima-vera.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

This Ukrainian joint boasts some great dishes from around the world, especially the carpaccio, thin-crust pizzas or simple chłodnik on warmer days. $ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl.

Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$ R20 (F5-6) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295. Open 07:30-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. This top-notch, casually elegant restaurant offers a concise, tantalizing selection of food with signature recipes from the head chef. Strongly recommended is the mouth-watering baked duck with orange and homemade ravioli. $$-$$$ Studio Buffo (E5) ul. M. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 22 339 0775, www.studiobuffo.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:3023:00; Sat & Sun 13:00-23:00. Famous for its shows, Studio Buffo should not be forgotten for its food. It’s a popular place with arty types, and the menu offers tasty mains. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www.restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:00-23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The feeding trough of the business class. Back sporting a futuristic look, 99 have been pleasing diners since opening in the 90’s. The good news is they’re better than ever, with a modern international menu that includes one of the finest steaks in town, and the perfect margarita. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best International Cuisine” Winner Restaurant Strauss (C4) Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2834, www.strauss.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-16:00, 18:00-22:30, Sat-Sun 18:00-22:30. The owners tell us that they’ve totally revamped not only the interior, but

www.warsawinsider.pl

>>

47

EATING OUT >> also the menu and it now sports European cuisine. $$ Sense (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570, www.sensecafe.com.pl. Open Sun-Thur 12:0024:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00. Fusion food, top cocktails and the restobar concept: it all started here, or at least it did where Warsaw is concerned. Years on and Sense is still a market leader, with a menu that’s perfect bait for the hot lookers who come here – try the flame-grilled lamb chops, or one of several wok choices. $$ Shilla (Kabaty) ul. Wąwozowa 33, tel. 22 649 3376. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-19:00. Your best bet for Japanese and Korean groceries. The catch is that the store is located in the backwaters of Kabaty. They sell furikake (flavour-enhancers for rice) as well as Japanese beverages like Asahi beer, Kirin lemon tea and iced coffee. $ Sofa Clubistro (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 28 (entrance from ul. Nowogrodzka 56), tel. 22 626 1415, www.sofa.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Take jazz, soften the edges and mix it with exotic food.

The result is Sofa. Excellent Panzerotti with artichokes and amazing ice-cream. $$ Solec (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec.waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a Swiss-Polish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron.

The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $ Spotkanie (Żoliborz) ul. Krasińskiego 2, tel. 22 839 3069, www.spotkanie.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Stylish, low-key décor, delicious, light salads and decent mains – the Romanov beef steak in mushroom and pepper sauce is simply excellent. $$ St. Antonio (D2) ul. Senatorska 37, tel. 22 826 3008, www.stantonio.pl. Open Tues-Sat 11:0024:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-24:00. Popular among

48

business negotiators and Polish VIPs, the place gets high marks for offering fresh and tasty Mediterranean dishes as well as seasonal Polish delicacies amidst Laura Ashley décor. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. With a location looking at the Chopin Museum you may assume this place is all about boring food at tourist prices. Wrong. Chic and shiny, and with a cool glass frontage, chef Robert – a veteran of the El Bulli kitchen – does the rest with delicate dishes that could pass for art. $$ Valadier (C9) ul. Łowicka 16, tel. 22 224 5454, www.valadier.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

Set in an elegant mansion this aristocratic choice comes fronted by Paweł Żółtanski, and he’s mixed French, Italian and Polish styles to come up with an exclusive menu that reads like a royal banquet: guinea fowl, pigeon and quail to name just some examples. $$$ Villa Czersk (Czersk) ul. Warszawska 23, tel. 22 736 2188, www.villaczersk.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

Found 30 clicks south of Warsaw, VC gets a spoonful of extra points for setting; a mock Tuscan villa in walking distance from the ruined castle in Czersk. Ideal following a visit to the aforementioned, this restaurant has a formal air and an important sounding internationa/Mediterranean menu that specializes in fish – the mussels are fantastic. $$ Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest.

The pasta is filling, and probably deserves its reputation as some of the best in Warsaw.

It comes as no surprise that they are often fully-booked. Check out one of the best summer gardens in the city. $$

*

Ye Goode Foode ul. Zamiany 12, tel. 22 254 4025. Open 11:00-last guest. YGF are back, this time in an off-center location in the middle of the ’burbs. Making use of unrefined oils and organic produce these guys take their cooking seriously – even the soups are made from spring water. The menu might not be as extensive as before, but it’s not a bad shout if you’re in the hood. $$

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

You and Me (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, www.youandmebar.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:3024:00; Fri 8:30-2:00, Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Serving up a pretty attractive selection of food. The interiors of this café/ bar look very modern, and the bold crimson decor makes it a hot spot for a date. $$ Zaułek Smaków – Winiarnia Portius (Żoliborz) ul. Felińskiego 52, tel. 22 839 8681, www.zauleksmakow.com.pl. Open 12:0022:00. Located in a beautiful area in old Żoliborz, it offers unique mixture of Hungarian, Italian and Polish cuisine and guarantees something for everyone. $ Zen Jazz Bistro (D3) ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 447 2500, www.jazzbistro.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00- 24:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00. The menu at Zen Jazz Bistro is rather lengthy, but the dishes are up to the expectation the delectable descriptions create. The tuna steak in teriyaki isn’t great, but everything else is pretty much on the money. $$ Żużu (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 43, entrance from ul. Różana, tel. 22 646 4585, www.bistrozuzu.pl. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-21:00. Żużu is hidden away in Mokotów, but well worth tracking down. The Panga/Sole Fillet served with white and wild rice risotto, saffron sauce and Tian vegetables is an excellent main dish. $

italian

*

Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 22 635 8377, www.restauracjaarsenal.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. It’s been years since we heard great words about Arse, and while the food remains fine there’s a distinct impression that their finest hour has long since passed.

A great play area for kids, it’s still not a bad option if you’re heading from Old Town with accompanying bambinos. $$ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 8303, www.bacio.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest. Handwritten menus yield such goodies as spinach gnocchi and pear in mascarpone.

Great pastas too and wine selection. The Bacio chain extends to other locations on Wilcza 8 and Ciszewskiego 15. $$

INTERNATIONAL/ITALIAN Bellini (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. 22 831 0202, www.restauracjabellini.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Queen of cuisine Magda Gessler brings her magic to the realm of Italian cooking with this spacious, enigmatic cellar restaurant just a few doors down from U Fukiera. Brilliant pizzas, especially the signature white pizza, with fresh mozzarella, provolone, rucola, pear slices and pine nuts. $ Castello (Wilanów) ul. Wiertnicza 96, tel. 22 885 7505, www.castello.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Excellent food. Recommendations include the penne alla norcina and frutti di mare pizza. $$$ Chianti (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 828 0222, www.kregliccy.pl/chianti.php. Open 12:0023:00. We recommend trying the salmon pasta, and the tiramisu and pannacotta for dessert. During the week, standards stay high as the chef doles out excellent salads and pasta. $$

Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www.delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00. Scene of this Insider’s meal of the year, circa 2010. Unassuming at first sight, it takes seconds to notice that something is very, clearly wrong – the tables are full and the diners having fun. There’s two reasons for that, and they’re called Luca and Lorenzo. Luca is the showman and waiter supreme, while Lorenzo the culinary master behind this much talked-about venue. Fish is their forte, with deliveries from Italy arriving Tuesdays. $$$ Dominos Al. Jana Pawła 45A (also at Bukowińska 26C), tel. 22 209 0002, www.dominospizza.pl.

Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland. $

Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 831 3443, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Wine Bar” Winner Gar Restaurant (D4) ul. Jasna 10, tel. 22 828 2605, www.gar. com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The Polish-French fusion of Gar is gone, replaced with a fun cinematic-themed trattoria. The pizza pies are excellent with thin-crust and hearty toppings. The hefty prices have slimmed down to an easy zł.12-35 per dish. $ Giancarlo Ristorante Italiano (Służew) ul. Rzymowskiego 34, tel. 22 549 6501, www.giancarlo.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00;

>>

Award winning quality since 1997

● international cuisine ● the best steaks in Warsaw ● 8-meters long illuminated bar

www.restaurant99.com Restaurant 99, Al. Jana Pawła II 23 phone: +48 22 620 1999, mail: restaurant99@restaurant99.com Opening hours: Mon-Thurs: 8:00 – 23:00, Fri: 8:00 – 24:00, Sat: 15:00 – 24:00, Sun: 12:00 – 22:00

www.warsawinsider.pl

49

EATING OUT >> Sun 12:00-20:00. Everything you’d expect from an Italian restaurant. Frequented by local restaurant critics and TV cooks, one look at the restaurant’s menu is enough to get you feeling very hungry indeed. Go for the heavenly sole in gorgonzola-spinach sauce. $$$ Giovanni Rubino (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 37, tel. 22 826 2788, www.giovanni.pl. Open daily 11:00-midnight/last guest. With satisfying salads and a pretty good thin-crust pizza, Giovanni Rubino is the Insider’s pick for when you’re looking for a quick late-nite bite in the Old Town area. Decent house wine too. $ Il Caminetto (Saska Kępa) ul. Zwycięzców 46, tel. 22 672 5596, www.ilcaminetto.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

This unexpected spot houses a fantastic Italian restaurant with authentic pastas and mains. A secret fave among the Italiano set, with the mezzelune dello chef and ravioloni ai quattro formaggi highly recommended. $ La Cantina (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 331 6798, www.lacantina.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest.

Mediterranean dishes with pastas, seafood and meat dishes and a large variety of pizza from a wood-fired oven. $ Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Design doesn’t figure highly here, instead the onus is on food – the salads are good, but the pizzas even better; maybe even the best in the city. Who says so? Only about a zillion Italians who order from here. $ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706.

Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, lunch 12:00-16:00; Sat & Sun 7:30-10:30, lunch 12:30-16:30.

Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30. Hot and cold buffet for zł.90.$$$ Oregano (Białołęka Dworska) ul. Bohaterów 14, tel. 22 425 5964, www.oregano-restauracja.pl. Open Mon- Thurs & Sun 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00- 23:00. Just about 25 minutes drive from the center, this lovely villa houses a cozy Italian restaurant with a menu that’s traditional but also very creative, put together by award-winning chef Anna Martynowska.

Highly recommended for a weekend brunch/ dinner jaunt. $$

50

Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00.

The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Pepperoni (Żoliborz) ul. Krasińskiego 10, tel. 022 839 6961.

Open 11:00-23:00. Colourful and stylish pizza parlour with 43 varieties of pizza to choose from, and a selection of pastas, soups and salads. $$ Piccola Italia (Ochota) ul. 1 Sierpnia 46, www.piccolaitalia.pl, tel. 22 846 8737. Open 12:00-23:00. The wood-fired oven brings out some of the best pizza in town, especially for fans of the vegetariana. $ Pizzeria na Barskiej (C6) ul. Barska 37, tel. 22 822 2750. Open daily 12:00-22:00. We’re told that this restaurant serves the best pizza in the city. Check it out and decide for yourself. A wide selection of huge pizzas ensure the return of many patrons. $ Pizzeria na Nowolipkach (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, tel. 22 498 8877, www.nanowolipkach.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A back street haunt that earns its stripes for excellent pizza – but better ring your order, with staff this sour it pays to keep contact minimal. $ Poezja (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 622 6762, www.poezja.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The Italian influence is evident in the extravagant menu and a lovely wine list. Try the garlic cream soup with snails as a starter and get the ink with shrimp as a main. $$

www.quattrocanti.pl. Open daily 12:0022:00. Brave the nondescript entrance to enjoy tasty Italian classics in a simple trattoria setting. Try the Mafioso pizza, the vitello tonato main and gorgonzola spinach on the side. $ Rimini Pizza (Ursynów) ul. Roentgena 1 (corner of ul. Pileckiego), tel.

22 641 9544, www.rimini.pl. Open 12:0022:00. The pizzas are made in full view, and they are near-perfect: Italian-style crust, delightful tomato sauce, fresh toppings and just the right amount of cheese. $ Ristorante Balgera (E8) ul. Rejtana 14, tel 022 849 5674, www.balgera.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

Enjoy succulent and hearty Italian pastas and steaks, sip rich Cabernet Sauvignon and treat your taste buds to a slice of decadent Tiramisu. $$$ Ristorante Il Sole (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 27, tel. 22 653 6484, www.ilsole.com.pl. Open 11:00-24:00.

Cut-price lunch deals draw in suited crowds from the offices upstairs, while modern, cosmopolitan interiors further stroke the corporate feel. The food won’t win prizes – neither will the servers – but it’s not a bad haunt if you’re working locally. $$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$

Pomidoro (Konstancin-Jeziorna) Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 22 702 8777.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. An authentic Italian restaurant located in a renovated paper mill. Chef Ricardo whips up some of the best pizzas, pastas and steaks you’ll find in this city. Try the spaghetti alle vongole or the bistecca alla fiorentina for a real taste of Tuscany. $$

Roma (multiple locations) ul. Grottgera 2 (ul.Belwederska 17), ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 826 7676, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 14:0021:00. Good food and charming Italianthemed décor – wine bottles and grapevines strewn about this intimate restaurant. Feast on a meaty Boscaiola or Carbonara. A bit kitsch but the prices are good and the staff are sweet. $$

Quattro Canti Trattoria (Wilanów) ul. Syta 120, tel. 509 644 559,

Roma Bukieteria (E5) ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 621 0311,

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

ITALIAN/SUSHI www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. If you’re looking for a spot of Mediterranean romance, this is the place. Warm shades of terracotta, wooden interiors and rose petals are the perfect place for a romantic dinner with a special someone. $$ Rusticoni Restaurant (C4) Złote Tarasy, tel. 22 222 0550, www.rusticoni.pl. Italian specialities, right in the heart of Warsaw. Choose from a wide variety of pizzas and pastas, as well as an assortment of meat and fish dishes, and a range of desserts, including home-made tiramisu. $ Sapori d’Italia (Ursynów) ul. Dembego 10 lok. U5, tel. 888 231 030, www.sapori-ditalia.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:0022:00. Recommended dishes include the tuna salad, a vibrant mix of tuna fish, salad, green olives and tomatoes enlivened by a creamy dill sauce and the deliciously tender Dourade fish. The food is well-worth the trip out to this slightly remote restaurant. $$ Trattoria Rucola (H4) ul. Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00.

Serving classic Italian favorites including pizza, pasta and risotto, this newly opened restaurant has something for everyone.

The Saska Kępa locals already love this place, so reservations are recommended.

Va Bene Ristorante (A9) ul. Pruszkowska 13, tel. 22 824 5060, www.vabene.pl. Open 11:00-23:00.

The restaurants offer a traditional Italian menu and the family atmosphere and menu (pizzas, pastas and ice-cream) make this place suitable for both kids and parents. $$ Vapiano (B12) ul. Taśmowa 7, tel. 22 356 1050, www.vapiano.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00- 23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype.

Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venezia (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 622 1537,

www.venezia.com.pl. Open noon-23:00.

What happens when a restaurant hits the skids? They call Magda Gessler, or more specifically her Polski version of Kitchen Nightmares. Reinvented under her guiding hand, Venezia are back with an exciting menu and an informal design that includes Venetian murals and a stone lion. Can Venezia reclaim their reputation?

The grilled sirloin with chili says yes. $$ Venti Tre (E7) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094. Open 6:30-23:00. With good seafood – such a rarity in Warsaw – Venti Tre serves up lovely meals that would appease the finicky appetite of any fish-lover. $$$ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00.

Vera Italia (Ochota) ul. Sąchocka 5, tel. 22 823 8380, www.veraitalia.pl. Open 11:30-23:00.

Where Warsaw’s Italian and other expats craving the real thing gather for Italian food. Note that its popularity makes booking ahead a must. $$ Włoska Robota (Ochota) ul. Drawska 22 (Ochota), tel. 783 870 463.

Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:0023:00. Squirreled away in Park Szczęśliwicki in Ochota, the forte of the establishment is the home-made pasta. The menu is otherwise a cookie-cutter range of pizza with the usual range of toppings. If you’re after baked dough the “panuozzo” sandwiches are real winners - just be prepared to wait a while. $

japanese & sushi

Akashia (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767; Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0333, www.akashia.pl. Compared to competitors it looks a little unassuming, almost faded.

The sushi is spot on though, and unlike some rivals they haven’t gone for the cut-price Polish chef option. $$ Art Sushi (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. 22 621 7720, www.artsushi.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The restaurant is charming, modern and peaceful. The menu is strictly Japanese/Korean, but is a good starting-point for sushi first-timers. $$ Besuto Sushi Bar (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 28 (pavilion 2), tel. 22 828 0020, >>

www.warsawinsider.pl

51

EATING OUT >> www.besuto.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. Set in the maze of pavilions behind Nowy Świat, Besuto looks distinctly at odds with the skaggy, shaggy bars in direct proximity. Featuring a jarring black/green design, the sushi is regarded as a bargain deal in a city where raw fish is commonly associated with premium prices. $ Doozo (D4) ul. Bracka 18, tel. 22 828 18 19, www.doozo.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 13:30- 20:00. A tiny, two-floor sushi emporium with a modern look and segregated VIP section. Check their ‘sticks’, tasty meat and fish options spiked onto skewers. $$ Gugo Sushi (Wilanów) ul. Nałęczowska 60, tel. 22 394 5480, www.gugosushi.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:0021:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00. Fresh ingredients and wide selection of traditional items and modern creations from the classic and fusion menus make this new sushi spot in Wilanów worth checking out. $$ Hana Sushi Jasna Centre (D3) Jasna Centre, ul. Jasna 14/16A, tel. 22 826 8585, www.hanasushi.pl.

Open 12:00-23:00. This new location of Hana Sushi combines sleek Japanese minimalism with an air of decadence, and serves food as fresh and attractive as the presentation. $$ Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955.

Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00).

Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. $$$ Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu. Open 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$

*

Kaizen ul. Świetlicowa 7/9 (Konstancin), tel.

607 128 840. Open 12:00-22:00. Dark woods and orchids warm the characteristically minimal Japanese design. The traditional sushi is delicious; however they also step in uncommon directions as they cater to Western tastes, with additional sauces, innovative inclusions and elegant plate ensembles. $$ Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery (D2) ul. Senatorska 17/19, tel. 22 892 0901, www.kiku.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A rather well-designed place with lots of Japanese-inspired furnishings. This restaurant, run by a Korean staff, offers far more than good sushi: tasty glassy noodles and udon soups too. $ Made In Japan (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 31, tel. 22 828 2637,

r e s t a u r a c j a

French Chef Thomas Rubio

Summer garden Restauracja La Table ul.Nowogrodzka 38 00-691 Warszawa tel 22 622 92 14 www.latable.com.pl latable@wp.pl opening hours: Mon-Fr lunch 12-15, dinner 17-21:30 Sat 15-21:30

52

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

www.madeinjapan.waw.pl. Open Sun-Wed 12:00-23:00; Thurs-Sat 12:00-24:00. This small sushi joint’s menu comes with set dishes of tasty sushi treats that can easily be shared between two. Service is speedy and friendly although the “authentic” Japanese cuisine is largely a Poles domain.

Oto Sushi (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 44. tel. 22 828 0088, www.oto-sushi.pl. This little sushi spot is both modern and intimate, making it great for casual meals or dates. Excellent sushi and swift service. Great patio in summer. $$ The Place (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 826 4517, www.theplacesushi.pl. Open daily 12:00- last guest. Great sushi at (surprisingly) great prices and other Japanese specialties in a slick setting. Plus delicious vegetarian options too. $ Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Some call it the best sushi in the city, and they may have a point.

Practice nimble chopstick tricks alongside other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ Sushi 77 (B4) ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 22 890 1811, Al. KEN 49, ul. Polna 48, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, C.H. Skorosze, ul. Gen. F. Sławoja-Składkowskiego 4, www.sushi77.com. Open 12:00-23:00.

The Sushi 77 chain is surprisingly consistent with the quality of its dishes. The Żelazna location is a favourite, with simple decor, friendly service and great sushi. Check out the Ursynów location for noodle dishes too. $$ Sushi Teatr (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 4787, www.sushiteatr.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. This small yet very comfortable restaurant is relaxing in its Zen-like elegance. Great for sharing a platter with a hot date. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00.

The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle.

Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away

SUSHI/KOSHER/LATIN from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Sushi” Winner Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent.

While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Tsubame (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 635 8667, www.tsubame. pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A great place for confidential conversation; frequently empty, the sushi is actually fine, just nowhere near the standard set in their former home on Foksal. $$ Yoko Sushi (Praga) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, (Promenada Mall, 3rd Floor), tel. 22 611 3535, www.yokosushi.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:0021:00. With a hip-Japan vibe and a cool factor that if off-the-meter, this is a perfect place for metrosexuals and hip urban couples. $$

kosher & jewish U Samuela (B1) ul. Stawki 2, tel. 22 692 6217,

www.restauracjausamuela.pl. Open 12:0022:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-22:00. If nothing else, it’s worth coming here for views that stretch right across town. Set on Floor 38, the Jewish/European menu is inevitably overshadowed by glittering sights outside.

With plenty of pork dishes on show, the Jewish authenticity is largely suspect. $$

latin

Argentina (E8) ul. Sandomierska 13, tel. 22 463 4788, www.argentina.com.pl. Open 11:00-midnight (dinner until 22:00). You may be wary of a restaurant that offers Tango workshops, but there’s no doubting Argentina have emerged as one of the great restaurants of recent times. Is it the best steak in Warsaw? Probably. The most reliable? Certainly. Tacky steakhouse furnishings have been waylaid for a simple, elegant finish, while diners are spoiled by a choice of a whopping nine steaks to slash through. $$$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

A lasting legend and an ex-pat darling – not least with the brunch bunch on a sweaty, summer Sunday. Appealing to all ages, this place is as good as ever. The fajitas are DIY food at its best, and taste all the better with a jug of margarita. $$ BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Latin Cuisine” Winner

?

See this 2 Over 0,000 people in Warsaw do as well.

Carmona (B2) ul. K. Chodkiewicza 3, tel. 22 414 1919, www.carmona.pl. Open 8:00-23:00. et in an increasingly happening section of new money Mokotów, find the daily tapas chalked up on a blackboard inside a modern interior featuring midnight colors and top-to-bottom windows. Worth the look if you’re next door. $ Cuatro Caminos ul. Grzybowska 2, tel. 22 493 8748, www.cuatro-caminos.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Winning blanket approval for what’s sometimes regarded as the best Spanish choice in Warsaw, Cuatro Caminos feature a scattering of selected mains and some excellent tapas in a prime location for an after-work meet. $$ El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 2340. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is consistently inconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$ Espana To Tu (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 54/56, tel. 22 892 0025, www.espanatotu.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

The younger, more elegant sister of Casa To Tu, find this more formal version in a courtyard off the main drag. Food reports are inconsistent, though we can vouch for the gazpacho. The interior looks the business as well, with a warren of warm chambers decorated in an inimitable Iberian style. $$ >>

Karol Kosiorek, kkosiorek@valkea.com tel. 022 639-8567 #150 mob. 0606 911-955

www.warsawinsider.pl

53

EATING OUT >> Frida Nowy Świat (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. 691 343 434. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-02:00.

Both the location and the design have been nailed, and while the salsa lacks teeth, the food is slowly approaching the level set by the more established haunts in the Latin class. Good burgers, as well. $$ La Fiesta (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 829 8560, ul. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 621 3154, www.lafiesta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-02:00. A relaxed vibe and decent Mexican food inside a warming bolthole off Warsaw’s main shopping corridor. $$ Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, www.portucale.pl. Open 11:00-23:00.

The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ Tapa y Toro (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Trasy Shopping Mall, level -1). Open 10:00- last guest. Tapas fans rejoice! With the full range of tastes Tapa y Toro is a great place to peck away on authentic Spanish nibbles, even more so if you bag a seat outside; eye candy heaven.

The only downside seems to be the toilet, a sickly, stinky affair shared with the rest of the mall. $$ Tapas Bar/Casa to Tu (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 54/56, tel. 22 828 5890, www.casatotu.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

Great cocktails and signature margaritas at the bar upstairs, a sprawling maze of cozy dining rooms downstairs. $$ Taqueria Mexicana (D4) ul. Zgoda 5, tel. 22 556 4720/22, www.taqueriamexicana.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. This little slice of Mexico serves great fajitas and even better Caesar Salad. Stick with the guacamole. $$ Taste Barcelona (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2086, www.tastebarcelona.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. A few venues have had a crack at making this address work, none have succeeded. Latest to face the hoodoo

54

is Barcelona, a modern eatery with some Gaudi-style trappings and a Catalan menu. Overrated say some, but the fish dishes are good – try the salmon shashlyk.

The Mexican (E4) ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 22 826 9021, www.mexican.pl. Open Sun-Thur 11:0024:00; Fri and Sat 11:00-01:00.

Style-wise this place is fab, complete with an adobe courtyard and Corona chandeliers. But the authenticity crashes into calamity with the food, which frequently appears as a mysterious gloop served with mashed cabbage. The locals love it. $$

seafood

Fish & Chips (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, www.fishandchips.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 11:30-21:00; Sun 13:00-19:00.

One of the ex-pat hits of 2010, and now suitably enlarged to cope with the custom.

Serving fish’n’chips, battered sausage and all the staples of a dart players diet, the Anglophiles running this joint have it down to a tee – with the menu even including deep fried Mars Bars and Snickers. Even better, they’ve a range of import goodies that run from novelty sauces to West Country cider (see oppposite for more details). $ Osteria (D5) ul. Koszykowa 54 (at ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 1646, www.osteria.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00.

An intimate restaurant with marine-inspired décor and the best seafood in Warsaw, t’s ideal for an energetic business lunch or romantic late-night supper. You can also pick up your seafood to go from their neighboring shop. $$

specialty food shops

*

African Shop ul. Wilcza 51, tel. 507 247 292, www.afroeuro.eu. Beans, beverages, flour and soup thickeners. Hair products and cosmetics also available, and they promise to be bringing in Abyssinian coffee in the near future as well. ‘’Excellent,’’ gushes one Zimbabwean connection.

Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www.biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00.

Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

*

updates

second warehouse, find organic cheese heaven, inc. Local varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. Cash only, with a second branch in Wilanów (ul. Kostki Potockiego, open Sat 10:00-15:00).

Fish & Chips ul. Koszykowa 30, tel. 692 240 804, www.fishandchips.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:30-21:00; Sun 13:00-19:00. British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc.

Internet ordering also available.

Krakowski Kredens Various locations, check: www.krakowskikredens.pl. Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as fantastic hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region.

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast.

Internet ordering now also available.

*

La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www. lafromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00. A bistro/cheese specialist with hard-to-find brands from across Europe. Also cider, conserves, marmalades and meats imported from Italy and France.

La Petit France ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, www.lapetitefrance.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:30-18:00. Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France.

Le Diplomat ul. Meksykańska 6, tel. 22 616 0539.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-15:00.

Long regarded as the best butcher in town, as well as the number one source for lamb.

*

Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, www.littleindia.pl. The definitive Indian store which doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available.

Maho al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548,

LATIN/SEAFOOD/FOOD SHOPS www.maho.com.pl. An excellent German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butcher: halal certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl. Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves.

MeiAsia ul. Kilińskiego 3, tel. 22 402 13 07, www.meiasia.com.pl. Open 10:00-21:00.

A top Asian spot just off the fringes of Old Town. Featured products from China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Thailand and Singapore.

Sauces, noodles, snacks and oils, as well as a small stand with fresh fish and seafood.

Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939.

Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries.

*

Nasze Przysmaki ul. Felińskiego 12, tel. 839 4219, www.naszeprzysmaki.pl. Georgian and Hungarian goods including wines, salami, preserved peppers, syrups and much more besides.

Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl. A superb internet shop

retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Lynchburg, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes.

Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service.

Papryka-Hungarian Store ul. Zwycięzców 22, tel. 22 616 0257, www.papryka-salami.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A Hungarian deli selling wine, meats, preserves and spices.

Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, Sicilian marzipan, coffee from Florence and Oliver from Puglia.

And not just Italian: find a range of foods from both Spain and France.

Polna Market ul. Polna 13. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West. And it’s still known as something of a shoppers paradise, with a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butchers (whose happy to accept special orders), and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables.

*

Russkiy Gastronom ul. Sulkiewicza 5. Run by a Crimean/Tunisian couple, here’s a deli dealing with the former Soviet Union and surronding nations. Find food and produce from Russia, Belarus, Georgia, Lithuania, Dagestan etc. Their specialty: dumplings from Uzbekistan.

Samira al. Niepodległości 213, tel. 22 825 0961, www.samira.pl. Lebanese goods inc. chickpeas, grape leaves, flatbreads, pomegranate syrup, hummus, olives, dips etc. Good budget food also served on-site.

*

Shilla ul. Wawozowa 33/3, tel. 22 649 3376, www.shilla.pl. A Korean/Japanese grocery in the back end of Kabaty. Possibly the best of its genre, goodies number xxx amount of noodles, sauces, tofu and more.

*

Wine of Dreams ul. Koszykowa 53, www.wineofdreams. pl. Not a delicatessen as such, but when the alcohol selection is this good you just can’t ignore it. An exhaustive collection of old and new world wines, but if you speak to any ex-pat and they’ll mention the beer selection: it’s unmatched. There’s a fab choice of world beers (plenty of cider and Belgian brews as well), but the real coup is the amount of lesser known Polish beers.

Try the Zwierzyniec.

Zielony Żuczek ul. Wilcza 31, www.zielonyzuczek.pl.

A brand new eco-deli in the heart of town.

Free range and organic products also available. Żółty Cesarz ul. Bruna 34, tel. 22 825 2500, zoltycesarz. pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00, Sat 8:0015:00. A quality eco shop selling fruit and veg, free range and organic produce, as well as more random things like eco-warrior t-shirts, bongo drums and household accessories.

TOP SHOP Fish & Chips ul. Koszykowa 30, tel. 692 240 804, www.fishandchips.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:30-21:00; Sun 13:00-19:00.

M

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

ore than a chip shop, the good folk at Fish & Chips sell a range of British food and beverages from HQ on Koszykowa. Included in the offer are bacon, sausages, gluten-free ready meals, sauces and confectionary. In fact, there’s not a thing they don’t cover, whether it be cheddar, Marmite or even beers – Scrumpy, Boddington’s, Bombardier etc. In fact, such is there commitment, you’ll even find pint glasses for sale with the three lions stamped on them. But there’s more. In the unlikely event they don’t have what you want, zap them an email and it’ll appear within days – they run a weekly van across to England, and for a nominal mark-up will fetch what you want.

www.warsawinsider.pl

55

GOING OUT Bars, Pubs & Clubs

THIS MONTH:

*

5 updates

SECTIONS bars & pubs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 58

jazz clubs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p.60

clubs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 61

Insider’s Pick

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF DELITE

HOT FIND

De Lite ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. 792 014 166, www.deliteclub.pl.

D

e Lite is located in the obscure yet inviting lot behind the Sheraton. In a city that loves to party and where clubs are filled to bursting, every new venue is welcomed with open arms. The trick is to secure your demographic quite snugly from the get-go. The owner of this new spot has had weighty experience on the scene with his early success at Nobo, irrespective of its ultimate demise a few years back.

He’s picked up the pieces and rolled out the red carpet at Warsaw’s new hotspot: De Lite.

Okay, so maybe there’s no red carpet here but the place does aspire to the ranks of Platinium. Bubbly young professionals and their scantily clad dates bop along sipping on martinis, chatting and dancing. Exposed brick and pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror setup in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, spaceship interior.

There is plenty of room to sit and enjoy some cocktails in one of the many booths but I wasn’t too crazy about the layout as the club is long and narrow, which makes it difficult to survey the scene and scope out

“ Bubbly young professionals and their scantily clad dates bop along sipping on martinis, chatting and dancing”

a potential disco partner from among the crowd. The DJ plays a range of pop and club hits that get the folks moving so it’s clear that all the ingredients for a great night out are here.

One great feature of this place is an integrated smoke room that caters to those seeking the luxury of a legal smoke while inside the club. I hung out there as it seemed to have its own party vibe - or maybe it was just the air of exclusion that made it seem cooler than the rest of the club.

The farthest end of De Lite sports the VIP room, offering a view of the whole dance floor through a highlighted ellipse window and furnished with comfortable white couches. Although the window can be covered with a roller blind if requested by VIP guests. And there’s a 50-sqm private room, complete with a separate entrance, VIP passes, its own bar and its own video display system of the dance floor. The perfect spot to revel in the action while having a bit of privacy.

While I tend to prefer more laid-back places along Mazowiecka, this spot is a decent alternative to Platinium - with a wild night virtually guaranteed, especially if you’ve booked the private room. (AL & JZ) >>

www.warsawinsider.pl

57

GOING OUT >>

bars & pubs

Absurd 228 ul. Puławska 228, tel. 22 252 0401. Open Tue-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-20:00.

Upmarket, but with an industrial twist, Absurd could yet emerge as the number one concert venue for alternative sounds. The Mokotów location makes it a gamble, but the live music is popular with creatives.

Alibi (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 22, tel. 22 629 2523. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00.

Another newish sports bar, Alibi’s strength lies in plenty of TVs (Sky Sports, yep), a generous floor plan, matey owner and a smoking area that’s seriously flexible.

Oh, the location is grand central as well.

*

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest.

The interiors are hip and happening, with walls layered with cult album covers, documentary film posters and a couple pics of military hardware (pointing at Tel Aviv across the road). Lebanese themed, the beer is nonetheless Lithuanian and Belgian, while the staff have an exotic look and elaborate hair. Brilliant.

Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia). Open 11:00last guest. It’s been five years since Bierhalle tapped their first beer, and in those five years they’ve nailed the market. Fantastic Pils served in a boozy, Bavarian atmopshere, and a decent menu to iron out any hunger issues.

Bratnia Szatnia (C4) pl. Defilad 1, www.bratniaszatnia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Bar, cafe, club, concert space – it’s all those and more. Set in the Palace of Culture, this place has everything from DJs and concerts to tango classes and art happenings. No surprise then to find a crowd of hip, urban media sorts staking claim to the seating.

*

Browar de Brasil (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 76/80, tel. 534 600 990, www.browardebrasil.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. As the big, copper vats suggest, they brew their own lager. And well. There’s four to choose from, and they come served by sexy soccerettes dressed in tight Brazil tops. Featuring scarlet colors and deep, dark woods (a glass floor, even!), this double level bar looks a good bet to break the duopoly of local microbreweries.

58

Browarmia (C3)  ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. The location alone means this place is never short on footfall. Even so, you get the impression it’d prosper wherever; certainly not as consistent as Bierhalle, Warsaw’s other microbrewery still runs a close second.

Cafe Kulturalna (C4)  Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, www.kulturalna.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience.

Chłodna 25 (B3)  ul. Chłodna 25/Żelazna 75A, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. A cult bar with arty performances and a battered look. The sense of community is strong here, with thesps, students and musicians gathering on the summer patio to tonk back the Ciechan.

*

Chwila (B3) ul. Orgrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754. Open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest.

Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the Wisła.

*

Czysta Ojczysta (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-4:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00.

Here’s a turn up for the books: a Praga bar that doesn’t look infected. Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo.

*

Dolina Muminków (E4) ul. Ksiażęca (Powiśle). Open 11:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 24hrs. Set around a stagnant looking parkland lake the Moomin bar is one more seasonal must before the sun goes for good. Deckchairs and sand give it a beach bar look, with drinks served from a rotund wood bar built around a water tower. The party goes for 24hrs at the weekend, with DJs doing their bit to jack the noise level to max.

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

*

updates

Flow (D4) ul. Chmielna 2, tel. 519 300 068. Open Sun-Thur 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-last guest.

Undistinguishable from a British high street chain bar, the principal boon here is the massive smoking section. Otherwise it’s negative points all round: from over-priced cocktails to dismal DJs, this place has disaster written on it in big red letters.

Huśtawka (D4) ul. Bracka 20A. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 16:00-last guest. A raw cultish hangout, popular with a non-conformist crowd who know how to party. Allegedly inspired by 80’s New York City, find this labyrinthine late-nighter in a courtyard palace.

Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 502 070 916, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. Open MonThur 18:00-1:00, Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00.

Even in an area known for its dive scene Hydrozagadka stands apart as something a little different. Competition is cutthroat in Praga, but even so this place wins the gong for most dismal interior – congrats. Looking like it’ll fall apart at any given signal, The H earns plaudits for weekends that whizz past in a blur of hedonism.

Irish Pub (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 22 826 2533, www.irishpubmiodowa.pl. Open daily 11:00last guest. Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night.

Jimmy Bradley’s Irish Pub (C4)  Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 654 6656, www.jimmybradley.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. A firm ex-pat bulwark, and certainly the best pint of Guinness in the city. Built on a firm foundation of live sports, free-flowing beer and rapid fire banter this is every inch your trademark Irish pub.

Come weekend, few places capture the ex-pat spirit better.

Karmnik (D1) ul. Piwna 41, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00last guest. Complimented by soft, lazy grooves, conversation comes fuelled

(A1) map location

take a date

by a fridge filled to bursting with diverse labels from Łomża and Gniewosz. Rounding out the art-mosphere, find a tubby looking dog nosing happily under tables. Decorated with birdhouses and wobbly plastic seats, it’s further proof that Praga cool has penterated mainland Warsaw.

Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Dwarfish in size, Kwadrat offers a magnificent selection of quirky beers from the lesser known breweries of backwater Poland. Arty in spirit, but never pretentious, it’s the neighborhood bar you wished you lived next to.

Klub City (B2) al. Jana Pawła II 43A, tel. 22 636 92 46, www.klubcity.pl. Open 17:00-2:00. A newish gay venue set under the pavilions on JP2.

The highlights here are the beer – Mazowieckie and Dawne – as well as a total absence of the preening fauxmosexuals of Warsaw’s more elite haunts. Find erotic art clinging to the walls, and karaoke and drag shows performed intermittently.

La Casa Del Habano (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 7, tel. 22 465 1275, www.lcdh.pl. Open Daily 11:00-22:00. Set up by the same folk who run the nationwide chain of Old Havana cigar stores, this compact Caribbean pleasure island caters to an older-skewed crowd of cigar aficionados, as well as contemporary tobacco enthusiasts itching to light up in style. The selection may be daunting, but the multi-lingual staffers are quick to assist in choosing the perfect smoke.

La Playa (E1) ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, tel. 22 331 49 75, www.laplaya.pl. Mix-up surf-inspired cocktails, lager in plastic glasses, a volleyball net, lounge chairs and spontaneous samba, and you get the most unexpected beach party you’d ever imagine. If you’re feeling particularly daring, go skinny dipping in the murky, muddy Wisła.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640.

Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge

BARS & PUBS

 food

live music

of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background.

Lokal Użytkowy (D1) ul. Brzozowa 27/29, tel. 22 635 6838.

Open Fri-Sat 18:30-23:30. This arty locale features swan white walls, graphic art and red, squeaky chairs from which to enjoy hard-to-find beers from CEE – Svyturys and Noteckie, for instance. It’s almost tempting to stick around for the weird events that unfold. Didgeridoo concert, anyone?

Lorelei (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 605 066 775. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-01:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-05:00. A brill place with black and white interiors touched up with cool lighting and walls layered with comic strip pics. The real plus are the people, an approachable bunch always happy to practice their English.

Meta (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 826 4513. Open 11:006:00. Decorated with Brezhnev-era leftovers this commie-themed venue has everything from propaganda posters to a string of toilet rolls hanging from the wall. Blend in with the wobbly legged party monsters by mixing Żołądkowa vodka with their special mix, PRL-style orangeade.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps.

Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D2) ul. Nowy Świat 63, tel. 509 643 639.

Open Sun-Thu 11:00-3:00; Fri-Sat, 11:005:00.A student heavy, socialist leaning hangout, where laptops and portfolios are seen as must-have accessories. Pretty vast, but usually packed with hipsters straining to listen to seminars and screenings.

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl.

Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00.Housed on floor 40 of the Marriott Hotel, the Panorama Bar has ditched it’s crass, Dallas style, and gone for a svelte, chic look that wouldn’t be amiss in a VIP club room. A romantic must, and all the better for its dazzling views; you can almost touch the top of the Palace of Culture outside.

Paparazzi (D3)  ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open Mon-Thu 12:00-1:00, Fri 12:00-2:00, Sat-Sun 18:002:00. Poland’s first cocktail chain, and a market leader to this day. Find a dressed-tokill crowd of jet set glamour cats prowling the bar, as well as a smoking section that encompasses everything but the entrance.

BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Night Out-Bar” Winner Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Plan B is a byword for everything that’s hip and happening in Warsaw. Design doesn’t even come into the equation in this grubby upstairs bar, but the free spirits can’t get enough of it.

With the weather warming up, don’t be surprised to find the shenanigans spilling onto the concourse outside.

Pochwała Niekonsekwencji ul. Grójecka 118, tel. 22 823 1898. Open 10:00-1:00. As avant-garde as they come, you’d expect this sort of place in Praga, not the heart of Ochota. Filled with dog eared books and contemporary art you’ll find the day’s offers chalked on the blackboard; among them, gourmet beers from obscure, offbeat breweries.

Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open 24 hours. One of its prime attributes is the fact that it’s open 24 hours and serves food/vodka shots/beer.

You’ll find it packed to the brim at two, three, four and even five am.

Pub Lolek (B8)  ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), entrance from Żwirki i Wigury, tel. 22 825 6202, www.lolekpub.pl. Open daily 11:00-03:00. The outdoor patio is packed in the summer, with the Żywiec flowing and kiełbasa grilling, while in winter a basic timber interior fills out come weekends.

Resort (C2) ul. Bielańska 1, tel. 535 350 997.

Open 12:00-last guest. What looks like a typically flashy theater zone bar is anything but. The terrace is a summer clincher, but check the inside as well. Everything but everything is made from reusable materials – seats from shopping trollies, tables from street signs and a bar from books… >>

www.warsawinsider.pl

59

GOING OUT Restaurant 99 (B4)  Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www.restaurant99.com. Open daily 08:0023:00. This slick Warsaw fusion restaurant also has one of the best bars in the city, with expert service.

Saturator (Praga) ul. 11 Listopada 22, 504 353 7772, www.saturator.art.pl. Open 19:00-last guest.

Dirty and daring, nights at Saturator start off quiet before erupting into a full-on party for people of all proclivities. Definitely gives you a taste of Warsaw’s naughty side, with music coming courtesy of figures like DJ Ladyboy and Electrohell.

Sense (D4)  ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570.

Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest. Everything you see you’ll want to stroke. Design elements include natural stone and cool lighting, though the real draw here are the drinks; enjoy elaborate cocktails fixed by an exhibitionist staff.

Sketch (E4)  ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch.pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00; upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. Cool, sophisticated and fun. The international spread of beers is impressive, practically unbeatable in fact, and served inside edgy minimalist interiors.

SomePlace Else (E5) ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton), tel. 022 450 6707.

60

Open Mon 12:00-24:00, Tue-Thur 12:00-2:00, Sat 16:00-2:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. Now back after a refit last year SPE have a new cosmopolitan look that makes use of a glowing bar, Minsk grey colours and exposed piping.

Certainly the hippest of the hotel gang, live music and expert cocktails make sure it draws more than the lodgers upstairs.

Spotkanie z Szpiegiem (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.

You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a small, rotund room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit.

of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.

A renovated railway ticket booth now houses one of Warsaw’s coolest bars. Organic beers, cheap shots, great music and a huge crowd of revellers spilling into the street makes it a great stop for those who want to avoid the club scene.

Wiatraki (D4) ul. Kubusia Puchatka 8, tel. 828 4034.

Open daily 11:00-22:00. A backstreet, Dutch-owned haunt where great snacks and sandwiches are overshadowed only by the beer – find a series of gourmet Benelux beers inside this friendly, two-floor operation.

Szparka (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16A, tel. 22 621 0370.

Open 24hrs. It looks like a generic, city center bar, and while no longer a hip, happening haunt it’s as popular as ever with a middleaged crowd. Set on numerous levels, its open hours alone demand Szparka’s inclusion to any Going Out list.

jazz clubs

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open SunThu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00.

More than just a Tex Mex joint, this is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong group of regulars and, better still, a spread

Tygmont Jazz Club (D3)  ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl. Open daily 16:00-4:00.

For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics. Soulful rhythms and straightforward décor characterize this laid-back music club.

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

Jazzownia Liberalna (D1)  ul. Jezuicka 1/3 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 635 3769. Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This place seems to have it all – location, great music, tasty chic fusion cuisine and prices that won’t intimidate.

JAZZ CLUBS/CLUBS clubs

1500m2 (E3) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. The most talked about dance space of 2010, and further evidence that Warsaw is catching up with Berlin when it comes to urban cool. Decorated with graffiti squiggles and industrial leftovers this warehouse space has acquired a name for dawn-till-dusk electro events.

Balsam (D10) ul. Racławicka 99, tel. 22 898 2824. Open daily 11:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 12:00-last guest.

Located in a former fort in the Mokotów district, its low-key vintage atmosphere attracts mostly the hip, younger crowd.

The Bank (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 14, www.bankclub.pl.

Open Mon-Thur 18:00-24:00; Fri 18:0006:00; Sat 22:00-6:00. With four bars spread across 1,500 meters of dance space The Bank makes an impression alright.

The place is huge, though you won’t need GPS to track down the lookers. The opening of this mega club confirms Mazowiecka’s status as the street of now.

Bollywood Lounge (D4)  ul. Przeskok 2, tel. 22 827 0283. Open MonFri 12:00-last guest; Sat 16:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-17:00. Daily parties with all the latest Indian and other exotic beats, lots of dancing, lights, colours and Sheesha smoke.

Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl. A massive space, sparkly chandelier and Moscow-style, over-the-top décor and regal staircases.

Free entry or zł.30 for Hed Kandi events.

BEST WAWA 2010 Capital Living Award De lite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub.com.

Open Fri-Sat 21:00-last guest.

Wow. Designed to compete with Warsaw’s other super clubs, De lite haven’t spared a single shekel in their bid for greatness.

Featuring the sexiest crowd you’d dare to imagine, this looks set to challenge the top table for house sounds. Score entrance to the VIP room and you won’t be disappointed.

El Presidente (D3) ul. Kredytowa 9, www.elpresidente.pl. Open 17:00-24:00, Fri 22:00-Last guest, Sat 22:00Last guest. A few dangly chandeliers embellish

the breeze block interiors of El P, a late hour spot that’s great for squaring off a long, messy night. Conversations are conducted above the music via way of signs and monosyllables, but chances of hook-up are high.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:004:00. Enklawa borders its glitz on kitsch but every weekend, it manages to draw in big crowds with its lineup of club and pop hits.

The dance floor is always packed, even on weekdays, and it’s a surefire winner as the top Wednesday in town.

The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open WedFri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last guest. It’s tough work getting past the face check at Eve, but the rewards are ample: guys will think they’ve died and landed in Eden. Music varies between club and commercial hits, and the shenanigans are best observed from behind the one-way mirror in the VIP room.

Hunters’ (D4) ul. Jasna 1, tel. 606 393 540, www.huntersclub.pl. Open 22:00-6:00.

Rising from the ashes of what was once Utopia is Hunters’, a high-end venue whose entry policy is every bit as daunting as that of the prior occupants. Aimed at a glam, fox-tailed crowd, this basement dance zone features factory grey colours interspersed with murals of tux-clad deer and ornamental mirrors. With nights like Gay Cum Back, it’s very much the VIP gay/straight/confused venue of choice.

Klubokawiarnia (D3) ul. Czackiego 8, www.klubo.pl. Open daily 21:00-last guest. If you ignore the latent fire hazard presented by this basement dive club then a Warsaw stalwart awaits. Writhing like a can of sweating worms, find a mid-20s party crowd enjoying house sounds inside a scabby looking space with flea bitten pics of Lenin & Co. Enter via a side door in the courtyard gateway and let the battle begin.

Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luztro.pl. Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty?

Then check Luztro, a grim, grotty den where rules don’t apply. Embedded in folklore, this after-party legend really kicks off at around 5am, when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the finishing touches to their saucer-

eyed stare. Your No. 1 choice for electro and minimal, it’s the full-tilt clubbing experience.

Your head will hate you.

M25 ul. Mińska 25, tel. 608 634 567, www.m25.waw.pl. Open Thur-Sat 21:00-last guest. Located inside an old city boiler house, M25 hosts a great selection of techno culture parties and miscellaneous events inside huge - you’ve guessed it - industrial interiors.

Supposedly this place boasts the best sound system in town, and judging by the post-party tinnitus we’re inclined to agree. Check online regards clues to the latest party.

Mono Bar (D4) ul. Mazowiecka 11a, tel. 22 827 4557, www.monobar.pl. Open Wed-Sat 17:00-last guest. Something of a student hangout, the dance-floor is always happening. Regular Wed Latino night.

Opera Club (D2) Underground of Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 828 7075, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. Located in the catacombs of the grandiose National Opera house, Opera Club has built its reputation based on a premium location. With perhaps the most impressive entrance of any of the clubs in Warsaw, it draws in young crowds on weekend nights and keeps them there until the early morning. BEST WAWA 2010 “Best Night Out-Club” Winner Ósmy dzień tygodnia (G9) ul. Czerska 12, tel. 508 111 221. Open daily 18:00-last guest. A huge, grungey dive club that’s become the latest hit among the uni-generation. Graffiti clad walls, warehouse trappings and a mega loud sound system complete the look. Entertainment ranges from hip hop sets and avant-garde film, to performances by esoteric bands like the Bi-Polar Bears.

Piekarnia (A1) ul. Młocińska 11, www.pieksa.pl. Check Web for events. Go back a couple of dog years and you’d have heard some clubbers hailing Piekarnia as one of the best nights in CEE. So what went wrong? Well, the old faces grew up and went elsewhere. They’re being replaced by a new generation, and while Piekarnia has a long way to recover the glories of the past, we’re starting to hear good things once more. House, trance and electro enjoyed by a diverse spread of club characters.

www.warsawinsider.pl

61

GOING OUT >> Platinium (D3)  ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, wwwplatiniumclub.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:00-1:00, Fri 12:00-5:00, Sat 16:00-5:00.

The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Powiększenie (F4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 503 118 088. Open 11:00-last guest. Brought to you by the same team behind Plan B, the more unpronounceable Powiększenie feature the same low-rent look and floppy-legged crowd. Larger in size, the downstairs regularly hosts cool international and domestic acts.

Obiekt Znaleziony (C3)  ul. Małachowskiego 3 (cellar of the Zachęta National Gallery), tel. 22 828 058, www.obiekt.blog.pl. Open Mon-Thrus & Sun 12:00- 1:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-last guest.

62

Located in the cellar of the Zachęta gallery, this club is a modern and minimalist artsy gathering spot for the alternative crowd.

Opera (D2) A labyrinth of passageways and chambers await in Opera, a subterranean club located underneath the National Theater. Touting an exotic, far eastern look, it’s one of the best designed clubs you could imagine, with a young, slinky crowd lapping up sounds from Warsaw’s upcoming DJs. Rich & Pretty (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, www.richandprettyclub.pl.

Open daily 17:00-last guest.The biggest launch this year was the star-studded, and aptly named, Rich & Pretty. This five star haunt looks every inch the biz, with leather recliners, black/white art and a rose colored backlit bar. Being drop dead gorgeous gets you a long way here.

Sen Pszczoły (Praga) ul. Inżynierska 3, tel 22 506 488 481, www.senpszczoly.pl. One of Praga’s newest

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

late-night hot spots. Musical offerings vary depending on the date, but they offer live music or DJs most weekends - check the website for detailed programmes.

Sheesha Lounge (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 3, www.sheesha.pl. Located in the centre of the city, Sheesha Lounge can be a good place to start your evening, or just take a little breather. A full Middle-Eastern menu and belly dancing.

Skład Butelek (Praga) ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 602 338 824. Open weekends from 19:00-3:00. An urbane, slightly scuzzy, enclave of cool. Hidden in the Listopada courtyard, with two other clubs next door.

Space Club (A5) ul. Kolejowa 37/39, tel. 606 617 228, www.club-space.eu. Open Fri-Sat 23:00-6:00.

A true techno club with crazy lights, a great sound system, big name DJs, and lots of room to waggle about and enjoy Ibiza flashbacks.

TILL YOU DROP Boutiques, Fashion & Shopping Malls

THIS MONTH:

* 2 updates

SECTIONS fashion. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 64

home decor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 65

shopping malls. . . . . . . . . . . . p. 66

Insider’s Pick HOT FIND Mokobelle ul. Wilcza 3 (entrance from ul. Mokotowska 54), tel. 508 010 204. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ANNA BLODA

M

“ Audibert’s flashy necklaces are definitely statement pieces worthy of Sex and the City girls around the world”

okotowska Street is finally in the midst of a real evolution – over the past three weeks half a dozen flashy boutiques have opened their doors, hawking everything from Marc Jacobs purses to Marc Cain pedal pushers. I welcome each new arrival with a mix of fascination and a bit of fear as my pocketbook grows leaner with each visit. One of the most interesting new spots is a new jewelry shop just off Wilcza – just across from the Ania Kuczyńska boutique on one end and Gal i Lu on the other. It’s just next to a new budding business called Lion House on the corner, an upscale real estate agency – not a Chinese restaurant as I suspected.

What makes Mokobelle special is the eclectic mix of a signature collection created in collaboration with talented Polish designers, along with pieces from world-class jewelers like Rodrigo Otazu and Phillippe Audibert.

Audibert’s flashy necklaces and bracelets are definitely statement pieces worthy of Sex and the City girls around the world. In fact, the shop girl boasted that his jewelry was featured in the latest film about the fantastic foursome. The bold, sparkling style of his designs is not for the every day – you definitely need a special occasion to sport these attention-getters.

The more subtle Mokobelle pieces are more along my taste for everyday wear – hammered gold hoops, dangling earrings of coral beads and tiny gold leaves and zen-inspired charm necklaces – all at a range of prices that hover in between zł. 200-900. I fell in love with a black beaded bracelet with gold accents, which I snatched up in a jiffy – practically a steal at zł.120.

Beaded “Unity” bracelets are a dominant theme here, in fact – they’ve got all shapes, colours and stones – aquamarine, quartz, turquoise, hematite, onyx and even black lava; they go for zł.100-400 apiece. They’re actually quite good gift ideas, with a casual elegance that can go from the urban jungle to the beach.

The only questionable feature of this place is the showcase of Goth-inspired belts at the front of the shop – but I suppose it’s an attempt at entertaining the male customer while the lady peruses this glittering store of treasures. (AL) >>

www.warsawinsider.pl

63

...TILL YOU DROP >>

­fashion

Ania Kuczyńska (E5) ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. .

The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Anna Walker (B6) tel. 22 825 0664, www.annawalker.eu. .

This new atelier comes from Canadian designer Anna Walker. A bright, welcoming showroom houses a collection of stylish gowns for special events and formal occasions.

Blind Cafe Concept Store (D6) ul. Mokotowska 63/100 (courtyard). .

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 13:00-18:00.

This eclectic 50’s-style place is well-stocked with unique pieces for women and cool gadgets for men. A perfect place for those who are looking for something more than a mall for a style fix.

Clue (E3) ul. Solec 101, tel. 22 695 7897, . www.cluefashion.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Clue stocks items from Moschino, ASOS, DKNY, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Cavalli, Steve Madden, Armani, as well as up-and-coming designers, and a number of children’s brands.

Designer Secret Al. Witosa 31 (1st floor, outlet 119), .

CH Panorama, tel. 506 051 048, . www.designersecret.pl. High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with women and men’s apparel from the 2008-2010 collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price. Labels inc. Prada, Smith, McCartney and more.

Emporio Armani (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 7, tel. 22 626 0650. .

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00.

The name speaks for itself. If you’re craving . a bit of Milano style, make sure to stop into the Emporio Armani store, just off the Rondo De Gaulle’a in the center of town.

Ermenegildo Zegna (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7000, . www.zegna.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Everything for the welldressed man, from suits to belts, sportswear and cologne.

64

Flaming & Co. (D6) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, . tel. 22 629 0545, www.flaming-co.com.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00.

This concept store, now re-opened on ul.

Mokotowska after renovation work, brings a fresh seaside breeze to Warsaw. Also checkout the branch of Flaming & Kids on . ul. Mokotowska.

Green Store (D4) ul. Chmielna 30, tel. 606 147 336, . www.gestablishment.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. The breakthrough fashion stars from Praga have opened their first boutique in Centrum, featuring their signature funky styles and accessories from Prada, Miu Miu and Gucci in a very cool space.

Joanna Klimas (B2) ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, . www.joannaklimas.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:0020:00. One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion.

Justyna Chrabelska (by appt) (E6) tel. 502 437 200, info@justynachrabelska. com, www.justynachrabelska.com. One of Warsaw’s most talented designers runs her own showroom in the center solely by appointment. With stylish, feminine dresses or funky contemporary dresses each season, this is the place to score the perfect dress, whether you’re a celebrity or just want to dress like one.

L’Aura (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho.

Lanoro Lingerie Shop (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5, tel. 22 622 8947, . www.lanoro.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. The most well-stocked lingerie shop in the city, with collections from Chantelle, Passionata, Calvin Klein, Lejaby, Victoria’s Secret and more…

Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 (courtyard), tel. 22 492 7409, .

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

*

updates

www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Lilla Moda (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, Klif www.lilla.com.pl. .

Here you’ll find exclusive Italian clothing brands, including Versace Jeans, Just Cavalli, GF FERRE, D&G, EXTE and Liu Jo. Loding Shoes and Shirts (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, 1st Floor, tel. 22 541 3774, www.loding.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. The respected French shirtand-shoemaker recently opened its first shop in Warsaw. The place to go for top-of-the-line shirts, cufflinks and made-to-order dress shoes for the well-dressed man.

Luxury & Liberty (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, . ul. Ostrobramska 75C. Open Mon-Sat 10:0021:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. The Luxury bar on . ul. Nowy Świat went bankrupt in about a minute. But its fashion counterpart managed to come back in style with a sprawling new boutique in the Promenada shopping centre.

While the location’s a bit inconvenient, the selection of quality designer gear at L&L and other shops makes it well worth the trip.

Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, . www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom.

Max Mara ul. Nowy Świat 1. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Poland’s first Max Mara mega store, with interior designed by Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Find all the latest from Max Mara Runway and the Max Mara Atelier coat collection, as well as Sportmax Runway and a growing range of in-house accessories.

*

Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, . tel, 22 827 7099, office@moliera2.com, . www.moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, .

Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain.

FASHION/HOME DECOR Muji (A1) Arkadia Mall (lok 23 A), Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 356 1039, www.muji.com.pl. .

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-.

21:00. Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store.

Odzieżowe Pole (E6) ul. Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 622 4867.

This is the only place in Warsaw where you can find limited-edition pieces from some of Poland’s most talented young designers.

Beautifully feminine dresses, skirts, blouses and jackets. There’s also a fashionable cafe upstairs for a quick-pick-me-up.

*

Pl.Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży3/4. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories.

Premiere (A2) Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710. The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace.

Rudolf & Co. (by appointment only) tel. 790 604 634, . www.rudolfco.com. A team of six tailors, the selection of which took some four years to finalise, sews items in-house. A darling of local press, with bespoke suits a specialty.

Simple (Various Locations) Klif, Arkadia, Sadyba, Blue City and Galeria Mokotów (see site for more locations and opening hours), tel. 22 531 4500 (Klif), . www.simple-cp.com. This original Polish brand has risen up the ranks over the past 15 years to become one of the most stylish labels on the market. Just the place to find minimalist pieces for the office or more . daring dresses for the evening for a reasonable price-quality ratio.

home décor & interior design

3F Studio (B2) ul. Nowolipki 28b, tel. 22 651 5644, www.3fstudio.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Offers furnishings . and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide. The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients.

All That Stuff (E3) ul. Solec 81B, www.allthatstuff.pl. A new . addition to the pre-loved goods market.

Stocks quirky titles imported directly . from the UK.

Redford and Grant (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, www.redfordandgrant.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00.

This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada.

Apteka Sztuki (E6) Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5, tel. 22 622 0421. Open Tues-Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-17:00.

Apteka Sztuki is an art gallery that features collections by up-and-coming contemporary artists, preferring promising unknowns to big names. The exhibits, which rotate on a monthly basis, include a variety of media created by artists from all over Europe (although the focus is on Poland).

Rodrigo de la Garza (Ochota) ul. Bema 65, suite 6; www.delagarza.it.

Opening hours: by appointment. Rodrigo de la Garza is an eponymous menswear label started up by an ambitious young man from Mexico who’s happened to opt for Poland as his home base. The designer’s speciality is custom-made, or bespoke suits, ideally cut and in all the styles and patterns you could possibly conjure up.

Bed and Breakfast (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 838 5381, . www.bedandbreakfast.net.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-18:00. Offers a. whole range of contemporary classics in interior design. Subtle colours and tasteful forms.

Bo Concept (A1) ul. Młocińska 5/7, tel. 22 636 7770. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun

11:00-16:00. Lovely, clean lines make this . one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for . the home.

Cepelia (multiple locations) ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, ul. Krucza 23, .

Pl. Konstytucji 5 (D6), ul. Francuska 49 (H4), ul. Chmielna 8, www.cepelia.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Specialises in Polish artistic handicrafts such as furniture, ceramics, sculpture, painting, jewelry and leatherware, this is the perfect place if you’re looking for traditional souvenirs.

Coqlila ul. Lentza 20 (Wilanów), tel. 22 651 6884, . www.coqlila.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-16:00.Home products with a marked provincial French style. Among the offer are fabrics, fragrances, furniture and kitchenware.

Ceramika MM by Maciej Szaciłło www.ceramikamm.com. Maciej Szaciłło’s work goes way beyond basic pottery. His primary output is functional art objects such as lamps and sinks, embellished with brilliant glazes, patterns, textures and threedimensional reliefs.

Domoteka (Targówek) Targówek Park Handlowy, ul. Malborska 31, tel. 22 334 4567, www.domoteka.pl. ego&eco (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35, tel. 22 826 2512. . www.egoeco.eu. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. Stocks everything from unique handmade jewellery to pure linen hand towels, traditional honey and organic soaps. Combines style with an eco-philosophy. Great for gifts.

Eklada Home (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 10, tel. 22 412 5252, . www.eklada.pl. A shop full of sweet home accents and gift ideas.

Etro Home (E5) ul. Mokotowska 46. In the flagship Warsaw boutique of the Italian brand you’ll find the full array of decorative bed covers, lamps . and vases, in addition to scents, jewelery and other fashion accessories.

Galeria 2 Deco (D6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 22 621 2420, . www.2deco.pl. A small yet concise collection of brilliant home furnishings that combine

www.warsawinsider.pl

65

...TILL YOU DROP the classic with contemporary at fair prices.

Special orders and consulting also available.

Galeria N+U (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 4073, . www.nplusu.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. This chic gallery/shop . offers a selection of bright and colourful quality housewares from all over the world, even Mexican glass and Madagascar baskets.

Great for gifts. Brands sold include Casa Bugatti, Ecoist and Franz Collection.

Glamstore (C9) ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), . tel. 22 403 2300, www.glamstore.com.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.

Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line. id Interior Design (Żoliborz) Pl. Kozietulskiego 2A lok.2, . mob. 661 289 833, www.idstudio.pl. .

By appointment. Run by Katja Sadziak, a London-trained designer, this design studio focuses on individual needs for individual clients, for either home or office.

Koło Antiques Market (Wola) between ul. Obozowa and ul. Newelska. Open Sat-Sun 8:00-14:00. Perfect for the casual browser or Eastern European history buff searching for antiques with a historical twist.

A fun place to browse silver cutlery, military paraphernalia, pre-war crockery, chunky furniture, vintage toys and just about any bric-a-brac.

Maison Creative (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. 22 622 3864. .

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00.

This gorgeous boutique features furnishings that boast luxury and class. From tasteful gilded mirrors, sparkling chandeliers and posh period lounges.

Mokotowska 71 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 22 629 0511, . www.mokotowska71.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style. An ideal place for brides-to-be to register, as service in English is available.

MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, NEW CITY building

66

(Mokotów), tel. 22 360 4389, . www.moomo.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.Fun furniture styles and innovative products. There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well . as a range of prestigious Scandinavian . nd European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm.

Numero Uno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, . www.numerouno.pl. Exclusive furniture . and fittings with brands including .

Poggenpohl, Presotto Italia, Calia Italia, .

EGO zeroventiquattro, Masiero, Bang & Olufsen and Porsche.

Orange Tree ul. Majdan 85d & 63, Wiązowa (just past Stara Miłosna), tel. 22 795 1605, . www.orange-tree.pl.Open Mon-Fri 11:0022:00. Looking some original furniture? Look no further than Orange Tree with . pieces made from such wood like mango, teak or rosewood.

Recamiere (D5) ul. Wilcza 23, tel. 22 629 5085, . www.recamiere.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-14:00. Brainchild of interior designers Ewa Breymeyer and Rafał Darski.

Carries designer pieces from around the world and offers professional decorating services for home or business.

Red Onion (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339, . www.redonion.pl. Red Onion sells furniture, lamps, ceramics and glassware, sourced from all over the world. Red Onion’s new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget.

Robbe & Berking (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10, tel. 22 627 1987. .

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. .

If you’re looking for top-quality silverware, you will certainly find it here – from hand crafted cutlery to engraved baby rattles.

Scandinavian Living (D3) Al. Piłsudskiego 21, Konstancin Jeziorna, . tel. 22 754 6312, www.scandinavianliving.pl.

Open Tue & Thur 12:00-20:00;.

Wed & Fri 9:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-15:00.

The shop offers a “Scandinavian way of life,” with imported furniture, cushions, lamps, tableware and even clothes. Bright, colourful and homey.

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

Secret Life (of Things) ul. Polna 18/20, tel. 22 412 4811, . www.secretlife.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Saturday 11:00-15:00. The store is a fashionable mishmash of home décor, cosmetics, books, clothes and jewellery; . the staples of every self-respecting bedroom or boudoir.

Zoom (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 816 2065, www.zoom.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-14:00. This vast store/ gallery located near the Sobieski .

Hotel is really kind of a design kingdom, from contemporary classics to funky.

shopping malls

Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00 Blue City (A6) Al. Jerozolimskie 179, www.bluecity.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Fashion House Outlet Centre (E8) ul. Puławska 42E, www.fashionhouse.pl Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, www.eleclerc.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-21:30, Fri 9:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00

Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, . www.klif.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Panorama (G10) Al. Witosa 31, tel. 22 640 1400. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Promenada (Saska Kępa) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, www.promenada.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00 Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

LIFESTYLE Accomodation, Education and more...

INDEX Accommodation................p.68 hotels in Warsaw.................p..68 hotels outside of Warsaw....p..69 Community Contacts.........p.70

Transportation...................p..72 car rental.............................p..72 travel agencies....................p..72 taxis....................................p..72

Education..........................p.72 Polish for foreigners............p..72 preschools..........................p.73 schools...............................p.75

Insider’s Pick

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF VERTEBRALIA

HOT FIND

Vertebralia ul. Postępu 6, tel. 22 44 92 828, www.vertebralia.pl.

V

ertebralia is a place like no other. It’s not just another professional private clinic where all the doctors speak fluent English.

It’s more than that; it’s an oasis where you can breathe and let the disease managers (for that’s what they’re called here) take care of your spine and soul.

Vertebralia’s principal philosophy is to avoid surgery where possible, and in this respect they manage to find a non-invasive solution 70% of the time. Dr. Kraft, who launched the first clinic in Austria about 20 years back, still sticks to this holistic approach. And that’s what marks out Vertebralia amongst other modern clinics, not to

“ Dr. Wolff and Spineliner are not nicknames of doctors, but pieces of highly specialized equipment, developed in the USA and Japan”

mention that it is the first clinic in Poland fully dedicated to diseases of the spine and intervertebral disc. Example: Dr. Wolff and Spineliner are not nicknames of doctors, but pieces of highly specialized equipment, developed in the USA and Japan.

Vertebralia also offers a service totally unique to Europe; it’s a dedicated package for medical tourists which include four days of treatments in Vertebralia and four nights in the five star InterContinental.

Of course, it’s not jusy about serious ailments. If you’re after massage, or a fitness class without the crowds and loud house music, then this is the place for you. And, I’ll tell you a secret delivered by none other than Dr. Kraft’s daughter (manager of the Warsaw branch): a special offer for “Sex and the City” girls is about to be introduced on Saturdays... Check their web for forthcoming details. (AJ)

www.warsawinsider.pl

67

LIFESTYLE >>

Accomodation

Some hotel prices might not include VAT

APARTMENTS, HOTELS

­top hotels in Warsaw 5-star hotels

Hilton Warsaw (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, www.hilton.com. Single and double room €95-125 (weekend), €135 (weekdays). Excellent services and amenities in a world-class hotel and conference centre. Holmes Place Lifestyle Club offers premium fitness facilities.

Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, www.warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. Venti Tre Italian Restaurant, Q Club Restaurant and Bar, Club Oasis Fitness Centre, indoor swimming pool, spa & massage services.

InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Single & double rooms: €95-155. Riverview Wellness Centre and swimming pool on top floor.

BEST WAWA 2010 Capital Living Award Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44,

tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com.

Single room: €129-159, double room: €139-169. Fitness centre, gym, swimming pool, sauna.

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, www.mamaison.com. Muffle up for an evening prowl around old town, before spoiling yourself inside the desginer confines of this boutique masterpiece. Prices start from approx. €115, but it’s well worth your time browsing their ‘romantic break’ and ‘just married’ packages.

Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.marriott.com/wawpl Single & double rooms: zł. 528 (weekdays), zł. 376 (weekend).

Gym and swimming pool.

The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Top-class boutique hotel in the centre of Warsaw. Single room: €140, double room: €170, apartment: €220.

24-hour fitness centre for guests only.

Sheraton (E5) ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw, tel. 22 450 6100. Single & double rooms: €77126. Fitness centre, aerobic studio, sauna.

We buy, sell and exchange!

With everything from economy to luxury vehicles auTOauTO.Pl will find the right car for you.

AUTOAUTO.PL The best-performing

Financing, insurance, registration, full car service plus short and long term rentals all undeR One ROOF

Over 1,000 used and new vehicles, all with warranty! used car site in Poland, and the national leader in used car sales!

We buy FOR cash

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Single & double rooms zł. 420-490 (weekend rate from zł.250). First Class Fitness Centre.

Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €95200. Swimming pool now open to public.

Westin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw. Single & double rooms: €77-126. Gym and sauna.

4-star hotels Jan III Sobieski (B5) pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Single & double rooms €60-94. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.

Holiday Inn (C4) ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com. Single room: €100 (weekend), €124 (weekdays), double room: €120 (weekend), €144 (weekdays). Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.­ Mercure Grand Warszawa (D4), ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl.

Single & double rooms: €78-112.

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Single & double rooms: €135 (weekdays), €99 (weekend).

Novotel Warszawa Centrum (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com.

Single and double rooms: zł.265-480.

Wellness centre and sauna.

Polonia Palace Hotel (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com. Single & double rooms: €60–235. 24-hour fitness centre for hotel guests only.

“We speak English, French, German and Vietnamese” - autoauto.pl Three locations: al. Krakowska 178, ul. Ostrobramska 73, al. Jana Pawła 69 tel. 22 487 5777 and 22 487 5779

68

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.pl. Airport Hotel Okęcie

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

AUTO_AD-new-new.indd 1

11-07-21 17:24

ACCOMMODATION is located 800 m from Warsaw Frederic Chopin Airport. Single & double rooms: €155, €123 (weekdays). Single & double rooms: €70-80 (weekends). Jacuzzi, sauna, tennis courts, and gym.

Golden Tulip (B5) ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500. Single & double rooms: Mon.-Fri. zł. 369, weekend: zł.

299, breakfast (buffet): zł. 32. Sauna, jacuzzi, fitness room.

Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000, nov.airport@orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €120-135. Swimming pool, jacuzzi, tennis court, Finnish sauna, power plate.

Scottish Ranch Skarboszowo (outskirts) Skarboszowo 30, tel. 22 662 9036, www.szkockieranczo.pl. Single and double rooms zł.210-330. Suites and deluxe apartments zł. 350-490.

Warsaw Gromada Hotel Airport ul. 17-ego Stycznia 32, tel. 22 576 4600, warszawa.airport@gromada.pl. Single & double rooms: zł. 250-420 (weekdays), single & double rooms: zł. 200-330 (weekends). Sauna, gym, free for hotel guests.

top hotels around Poland

3-star hotels Hotel Belwederski (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl. Single room: zł. 240, double room: zł. 280. On weekends 20% discount (Fri-Mon). Breakfast included.

Castle Inn (D1) Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl.

Single & double rooms (Standard castle view): zł.190-290. Deluxe apartments: zł.

279-430. Breakfast: zł. 20. Artsy boutique accomodation on the castle square.

Kraków 5-star hotels

Hotel Reytan (E8) ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl. Single room: zł. 360 (week), zł. 250 (weekend). Double room: zł. 390-550 (week), zł. 270-390 (weekend). Breakfast included.

Mercure Warszawa Fryderyk Chopin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 22, tel. 22 528 0300, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €90100. Swimming pool, fitness room, massages, Finnish sauna, gym, power plate.

Hotel Stary ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. 12 421 4865. Single & double rooms €245-275. Sauna, fitness centre, Spa & Wellness centre, indoor swimming pool, salt cave, roof top bar.

Grand Hotel ul. Sławkowska 5/7, tel. 12 424 0800. Single & double rooms €177-189.

4-star hotels Hotel Pod Różą ul. Floriańska 14, tel. 12 424 3300. Single & double bedrooms €187-207. Sauna, fitness centre, hiking.

>>

OLD TOWN ATMOSPHERE STUNNING PATIO FINE DINING AND SOMMELIER’s SELECTION

LA ROTISSERIE RESTAURANT IN MAMAISON HOTEL LE REGINA WARSAW Kościelna 12 T: 22 531 60 00 E: reception.leregina@mamaison.com FB: www.facebook.com/MamaisonHotelLeReginaWarsaw

www.warsawinsider.pl

69

LIFESTYLE >>

Community Contacts GET CONNECTED

Alcoholics Anonymous for Foreigners Based on the traditional AA format, in Warsaw meetings take place on ul. Radna, buzzer #3.

Group meets Mon, Tues, Thurs 18:00 and Sat 11:00 (except the first Saturday of the month).

American Friends in Warsaw AFW offers a variety of social activities, family events and ‘hands-on’ outreach programs supporting vital needs in our host country. For more information: info@afw.waw.pl.

Amnesty International ul. Piękna 66a, apartment no. 2, 1st floor; tel/ fax: 22 827 6000; e-mail: amnesty@amnesty. org.pl. Donations can be made to Zachodni WBK S.A. 6 O/Gdańsk 85 1090 1098 0000 0000 0959 0181.

Art Friends’ Society For info, contact Justyna Napiórkowska:

e-mail: justyna@napiorkowska.pl, mob.

0603-378-567.

Australians in Warsaw The group meets once a month for drinks and a chat. For more information: darren. haines-powell@ifgroup.com.pl.

Awangarda Promotes the integration of people with disabilities into mainstream society. For more information, please contact Małgorzata Samborska at e-mail: m.samborska@awangarda. org.pl or visit Awangarda’s website at www.awangarda.org.pl.

Blanc Lys (Wola) ul. Księcia Janusza 23, tel. 508 162 810, www.blanc-lys.com. The first self-service laundromat in Warsaw, open daily 08:0020:00. Free wi-fi.

HOT FIND

Bread of Life (Chleb Życia) ul. Nowogrodzka 6, www.chlebzycia.org.pl.

Sells items made by both the homeless and women fleeing domestic violence. If you’re interested in the work of the Bread of Life, or would simply like to sponsor a student, email Elizabeth via iwgwarsaw@ yahoo.com.

Cumann Warszawa Gaelic Football Team Poland’s first Gaelic football team is up and running. The club offers weekly training, competitive games against other European GAA opposition and regular social events and is open to players and members from all nationalities. For more information contact Eoin 518 425 587 or cumannwarszawa@ gmail.com.

Dharma Yoga in English. It’s well worth visiting the English/

Oasis Massage & Spa ul. Królewska 2, tel. 22 435 9336, www.oasisspa.pl. Open Mon - Sat 10:00-21:00.

“ As soon as you enter, you feel like you’ve been transported to a little spa in Thailand”

70

here was a point in my life when I was something of a spa addict – I would dip out at least one or two afternoons a week for a quick facial, a peel or a Lomi Lomi. But then my career charged up full blast and there were no more two-hour lunch breaks to be spent getting primped and pampered. But with the job comes stress and with stress eventually comes the realisation that a good old massage is just the ticket to combat that stress.

So I arrived at Oasis, recommended to me by a friend who’d heard from a friend.

Located close to the Bristol, the entrance isn’t quite so flashy, but as soon as you enter, you feel like you’ve been transported to a little spa in Thailand. Cozy, but still quite posh.

There’s tantric music playing and pleasant scents wafting through the air.

In my stressy situation, I’d made an appointment, but I couldn’t quite decide beforehand what treatments to choose. Which actually turned out better for me as the two ladies who had been assigned to reboot my system gave me a one-over and knew exactly what I needed.

We started off with the “Flash Beauty” treatment based on Sothys cosmetics – which consisted of over an hour of soothing, smoothing exfoliation and layering of serums and rich creams that were aimed at giving my skin a boost of vitamins and a healthy glow. It was topped off with a lovely neck and hand massage. The treatment is actually considered a “banquet” treatment for ladies who have a glam shindig in the evening, so there’s no fear of coming out all pocky and red. There are loads of other treatments, of course, from deep cleaning for problem skin to mesotherapy and diamond dermabrasion.

Then it was off to the massage room, where candles glowed and more of that mellow music played. I chose the “Riches of the Dead Sea” treatment based on products from the Organique line – a deep, exhilarating full-body scrub, followed by a more strenuous massage that concentrated on the legs - my personal request - and stimulated every limb.

The last step was a detoxifying clay mask - I was slathered with lots of mud and wrapped up like a mummy for fifteen minutes. A quick shower and I was refreshed and renewed just as they’d promised. (AL)

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

PHOTOGRAPH COURESTY OF OASIS MASSAGE & SPA

T

COMMUNITY Polish website for more information on the specific practices of this type of yoga, the offers at hand for first-time students as well as sneaking a peak at the photo journalism of key practitioner, Sabina Steckiewicz’s travels around India. Find out more at: www. dharmayoga.pl.

Dr Clown Foundation ul. Goszczyńskiego 9, www.drclown.pl.

Provide Patch Adams-style entertainment to kids in 68 hospitals and clinics across Poland.

Further info: tel. 22 854 0501, 02 or 03.

The English-Speaking Expatriate Business Owners in Poland Association This non-profit association serves a niche group of expatriates within the framework of “expat CEOs helping expat CEOs without business competition getting in-between.” For further information, please contact Richard Whipple (Founder), tel. 504 346 406.

European Social Democrats in Poland Contact Tim Clapham at tel. 22 624 0470, timclapham@poczta.onet.pl or Jean-Yves Leconte at mob. 0604 960 555, jy.leconte@ assemblee-afe.fr.

The Ex-Animo Foundation An organization that helps care for young cancer patients at the Children’s Memorial Health Institute - the largest children’s oncology center in Poland. www.exanimo.pl.

Expats-in-Poland.com Forum, news, free legal advice, extensive information and services for foreigners including immigration, work permits, driving licences, renting and buying properties, healthcare, education and more. For more information: www.expats-in-poland.com.

Expatriates Services PFF ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11. Offers services for foreigners coming to Poland, including obtaining residence & work permits, visas, setting up business activities as well as legal services and support for foreign investors and business entities. For more information: tel. 22 828 1501, www.pff-warsaw.com.

Food Banks All thirty food banks operating in Poland deliver food aid to those in need – as many as 5 million people. To donate food or get involved go to www.bankizywnosci.pl.

Foundation for Poland This is a charity organization that reaches out

to street children and other youths. They also manage a number of other projects. For more information: www.fdp.org.pl.

Frogs & Co. Warsaw’s expatriate men’s rugby team, trains Saturdays from 12:00 at Skra Stadium, ul. Wawelska 5. For more information: Christian, mob. 0502 198 782.

Fundacja Dziecięca Fantazja Poland’s own “Make-A-Wish Foundation” focus to “light up the lives” of terminally-ill children in Poland by making their fondest wishes and dreams come true. More info at: email: info@f-df.pl, www.f-df.pl.

Fundacja Świętego Mikołaja ul. Przesmyckiego 40, Piaseczno, tel. 22 825 0390. The St. Nicholas Foundation has been contributing funds to needy children and families for over ten years. To support the foundation, wire funds to Volkswagen Bank Polska S.A. 64 2130 0004 2001 0299 9993 0001 (KRS 0000126602).

Info: www.mikolaj.org.pl.

Habitat for Humanity International (F11) This is a non-profit organization that helps the working poor build and afford their own houses. For more information: ul. Idzikowskiego 2/16, tel. 22 642 9520, poland@habitat.pl, www.habitat.pl.

International Rotary Club The only English speaking Rotary Club in Warsaw. Visiting Rotarians are welcome to join the weekly meetings held at the Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45. For info: tel.

601 897 731.

International Women’s Group of Warsaw Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are generally held on the second and fourth Monday of the month.

For more info email iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com.

Italiani in Polonia ul. Dąbrowskiego 82C, tel. 22 845 0652, www.italianiinpolonia.org. The biggest Italian community group in Warsaw. Hosts regular social gatherings, lectures and special events for members.

The Kurt Scheller Academy (D6) Offers top-standard cooking lessons.

For more information: ul. Piękna 68, tel. 22 626 8092, akademia@schelleracademy. com.pl.

Little Chef Cooking classes for children age 4-16.

Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cookand-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English, French and Polish, Mon-Sat. Visit www.littlechef.pl or call 0501 093 691 for more information.

Mums & Tots Brings together expat mothers, toddlers and babies for various activities. For more information: postmaster@mumsandtots.com, www.mumsandtots.com.

Pol-in.pl – Professional Expat Assistance Information and services for foreigners such as: residence permit, visas, work permit, real estate, money transfer (Western Union), car rental and more. Info: www.pol-in.pl.

Professionals in Warsaw Hosts meetings in the city to link up professionals, those new to Warsaw, or those here for the long haul. For more info contact Andy (mob. 691 535 566) or the group page on Facebook.

St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl. The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year.

Talizman The Talizman Foundation is a non-profit registered charity.

More info at: www.talizman.org.

Taste of the Classics A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations. The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English. Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine.

To request an invitation or for further information please contact Richard Berkeley: berkeley@fnok.pl or tel. 502 965 353.

Toastmasters International (C4) Practice and perfect communication skills and public speaking in an enjoyable and supportive environment. Meetings every Wednesday, 19.00 at Palace of Culture 12th floor (premises of Collegium Civitas). Entrance from ul. Marszałkowska side. Visit www. toastmasters.org.pl or call Etan at 696 292 451 to learn more. >>

www.warsawinsider.pl

71

LIFESTYLE >>

Transportation GETTING AROUND

car rental

Avis (C5) tel. 22 572 6565, fax 22 572 6566, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 650 4872/3.

Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl.

Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul.

Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360.

Reservations: tel. 22 500 1620, 800 143 789.

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, fax 22 511 1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, fax 022 650 2032, www.sixt.pl.

Trust Rent a Car (C12) ul. Konstruktorska 4, mob. 0602 475 355, www.trustrentacar.pl.

taxis

Dawel tel. 22 196 26 Ele Taxi tel. 22 811 1111 Grosik Taxi tel. 22 646 4646 tel. 22 677 7777 Merc MPT tel. 22 1919 Sawa tel. 22 644 4444 Super Taxi tel. 22 196 22 Top Taxi tel. 22 196 64 Volfra tel. 22 196 25 Wawa tel. 22 196 44

Education

PRESCHOOLS AND SCHOOLS

polish for foreigners

Academia Polonica (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 55 loc.15, tel. 22 629 9311, www.academia-polonica.com.pl. Offers a choice of special programs such as: Polish in Business, General Polish Language, Polish for Academics and Polish for Professionals.

Akademia PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11, tel. 501 299 338, www.pff-warsaw.com, email: info@ pff-warsaw.com. Akademia PFF offers a wide range of Polish courses for foreigners at low cost in-company or other convenient

locations. Professional and friendly tutors with effective teaching styles.

The Centre for Polish Studies (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 20, room 507, tel. 22 380 3036 and mob. 0605 205 882, e-mail: www.learnpolish.edu.pl. Learn the basics or polish your Polish at the Centre, which specializes in teaching Polish language and culture to foreigners.

Centrum Języka Polskiego (E5) ul. Mokotowska 35, tel. 22 626 9671 www. cjp.pl. They organise group lessons, weekend trips and individual courses. In addition to Polish lessons, Centrum Jezyka Polskiego

offers Russian lessons at various levels.

Dobra Chata ul. Dobra 635, tel. 694 871 312, www.dobrachata.eu. Intensive tailor-made Polish courses in the countryside. Levels and topics adapted to your needs. One to four participants. Accomodation, food and qualified nanny care for your children.

Edu & More ul. Marszałkowska 87 lok. 81, tel. 22 622 1441, www.eduandmore.com. Business & everyday Polish. Full-time courses and innovative courses of Polish online. Experience, good location & price friendly. Students of full-time courses get online course for free.

IKO Institute of Polish for Foreigners (E4) ul. Kopernika 3, tel. 22 828 5267, www.iko. com.pl. Email: iko@iko.com.pl. Polish language education for expats. Follows a total immersion approach to communication, with a combined focus on language and culture.

Lingua Polonica Lingua Polonica offers general Polish language classes, Polish for business and Polish for diplomacy. Individual learning programs are tailored to the needs of individual clients. Private and small-group classes available on a variety of levels for competitive prices. Professional, friendly and dedicated instructors. They even offer a free trial lesson.

Info: www.linguapolonica.com.pl. Email: linguapolonica@linguapolonica.com.pl.

72

Perfect Polish tel. 783 012 463, info@perfectpolish.pl,

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

EDUCATION www.perfectpolish.pl. Skilled teachers in Polish language and culture on a range of levels: from Survival Polish to Polish for Business and even Polish Culture and Literature. Speaking, listening, reading and writing.

POLA-Polish for Foreigners Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19 Apt. 21, tel. 22 622 0717, mob. 0607 419 661, www.pola.edu.pl, email: biuro@pola.edu.pl. Polish made easy. Specializes in teaching Polish as a foreign language at every level. Group and individual courses based on practical communication techniques. Flexible and mobile instructors.

Schola Vera – Polish for Foreigners Polish for foreigners taught by bilingual native speakers. School offers free trial lesson, reasonable prices, flexible locations.

Teachers are patient, friendly and knowledgeable in all areas of Polish language, lifestyle and culture. For more information, contact Schola Vera by phone or email: tel. 79 059 7145; schola.vera@gmail.com.

Worldwide School (E3) ul. Dobra 56/66, tel./fax 022 826 6904; ul. Morcinka 5 paw.16, tel./fax 022 638 4196; ul. Kondratowicza 25, tel. 22 675 1174; ul. Ks. J. Popiełuszki 21/24, tel. 22 833 9112; www.worldwideschool.pl Their “Polish for Foreigners in Poland” program is aimed at companies, individual clients (open “Razem po polsku” training). They also have lectures about Polish history and civilisation.

preschools

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dabrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777; ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Primary, Secondary, IB Diploma program), tel. 22 842-3281; www.thebritishschool.pl.

The British School provides special classes from the pre-nursery group – including children from preschool through secondary school.

Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool (C11) ul. Kalatówki 24, tel. 22 898 3139, 697 979 100. The pre-school branch of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides both Polish and International 3-5 year olds with the perfect setting for their first encounters with English and French in an inquiry based classroom. Here, every task relates to real life experience and skills. In addition to a rich, international curriculum, the pre-school offers a wide range of extracurricular activities such as dance, swimming, capoeira, karate and pottery. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: preschool@canadian-school.pl.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, office@warsawmontessori. edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl.

Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call

ABC Play & Learn (H5) ul. Genewska 27, Saska Kępa, tel. 22 616 2066, www.abc.org.pl. Located in the leafy residential district of Saska Kępa, ABC Play & Learn provides a creative and WARSAW educational space for small children, with VOLUNTEER MISSION capacious play rooms filled with toys and hands-on materials.

Bilingual French – Polish Preschool “Trampoline” ul. Zakopiańska 12a (Saska Kępa) and ul. Skrzetuskiego 17 (Mokotów),mob.

0502 355 919, www.trampoline.edu.pl.

This preschool has a lingual profile and offers bilingual teaching with French and English.

They received the European Label Certificate for innovative foreign language teaching.

to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16, Saska Kępa, tel 22 616 1499, www.saint-exupery.pl.

Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children 2 to 7 years old (2nd year of primary school). Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers. Welcoming family atmosphere.

The English Playhouse (F12) ul. Płyćwiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370.

The English Playhouse functions in the quiet and green-filled residential Mokotow district, next to Królikarnia Park. This preschool follows the English National Curriculum and enrolls children from 12 months up to 6 years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów, ul. Rzodkiewki 18. New, purpose built preschool building with a vast garden for children up to six years old. For info call Agnieszka Weston, mob. 0604 464 333 or email: office@theenglishplayhouse.com.

Web: www.theenglishplayhouse.com.

The European Bilingual Preschool ul. Chłapowskiego 1, tel. 22 644 1514, mob.

0605 561 514, info@preschool.waw.pl, www.preschool.waw.pl.

HAPPY HOME Childcare ul. Okrężna 23, KonstancinJeziorna, tel. 22 717 5513, fax 22 717 5145, mob.

608 369 269, 501 495 543, preschool@ happy-home.pl, www.happyhomechildcare.eu.

An international preschool located in

J

olanta lives with her husband and six kids in a rundown house with three rooms. Their WC collapsed not long ago and they desperately need zł. 800 to repair it. The husband is actively looking for a job having gone unpaid for his last work – a three week stint on a Warsaw building site. While he was offered a job in Olsztyn, he was unable to afford both train fare and accommodation. Jolanta, meanwhile, is registered with the Urząd Pracy (job centre) and is signed up for an accountancy course. As things stand, however, they are struggling to provide the most basic necessities for their children.

To help Jolanta and others like her contact the Warsaw Volunteer Mission, ul. Orzeszkowej 39, tel. 22 499 1880, www.wvm.org.pl. >>

www.warsawinsider.pl

73

LIFESTYLE >> Konstancin, close to the American School of Warsaw. Ideal childcare facility for children aged 16 months to 5 years. “Happy Home is Your Home” is their motto, aiming to combine a family atmosphere with education, promote the harmonious development of children through play and getting to know themselves and the world.

Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 427 3767, mob. 697 060 504, www.hmh.com.pl. The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising. Children are given ample time and opportunity to explore and work at their own pace and in their own learning style, with a focus on global education according to the world-famous Montessori philosophy.

International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649 1440 or 603 952 955, www.ias.edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl. The International American School of Warsaw provides pre-Kindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization. 5:1 student/faculty ratio and extensive extracurricular activities.

74

International Preschool (E11) ul. Zawrat 14, tel. 22 843 0964, preschool@ preschool.pl, www.preschool.pl. Serving the children of American Embassy and non-embassy families for over 50 years, the International Preschool of Warsaw is located in the heart of Mokotów district.

Kidzcorner Marina Preschool & Kindergarten Marina Mokotów, ul. Ukryta 4, tel/fax 022 493 1354, mob. 501 050 622, www.kidzcorner.pl.

The Kidzcorner school is located within the Marina Mokotów residential complex. It offers a bilingual Polish-English learning program.

La Fontaine Polish-French Pre-School ul. Rolna 177, Mokotów, tel.22 843 4241 & ul. Pogonowskiego 19, Żoliborz, tel. 0 502 051 360, www.lafontaineprzedszkole.pl.

This preschool has a Polish-French profile and offers bilingual teaching.

Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre is an English-speaking play and learn group in Old Mokotów, dedicated to infants 16 months to 3 years of age. It offers a gentle introduction to nursery education. Contact: marta. cross@neostrada.pl, mob. 607 704 396.

Maple Leaf Preschool ul. Żołny 16, tel. 22 644 2326, office@canadianschool.edu.pl, www.canadianschool.edu.pl. Polish-Canadian Preschool with two locations on the outskirts of Warsaw, ul. Czereśniowa 31a, WarszawaWłochy, tel. 22 863 7756 and ul. Żołny 16,

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 0 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 1

tel. 644 23 26, mob. 501 251 414.

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, www.argonaut.edu.pl. This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów) ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), tel. 502 315 022, www.montessoriacademy. eu. An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations.

The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. Offers extracurricular activities, such as: art, dance, yoga, football and summer art & sport camps.

Nanny Express Al. Witosa 31, #105, tel. 22 858 3328, www.nannyexpress.pl. Nanny Express provides trusted, childcare professionals for the Warsaw elite. Here, the nannies come with a University degree in pedagogy, at least two years of previous experience working with children and an intermediate fluency in

EDUCATION English. Their training process includes first aid and FCPR training, nutrition, pediatrics, communication, arts and crafts.

Three Language Day Care (F4) ul. Cicha 5, tel. 503 072 119, www.zlobekjezykowywarszawa.pl. The first trilingual nursery school in Warsaw. Located in the Powiśle district of Centrum, it offers children 1-3 a comprehensive curriculum taught by native speakers of Polish, Spanish and English. E-mail: amjup2000@yahoo.com.

schools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 702 8500, fax 022 702 8500, admissions@aswarsaw.org, www.aswarsaw.org. The American School of Warsaw provides comprehensive programs and facilities based on a US system of education for ages 4 to 18.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw with comprehensive programs and facilities based on the British system of education.

Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School Unit ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646 9289, 697 970 244.

The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 6-10 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provides for an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

Extra-curricular activities include pottery, dance, ballet, capoeira, karate, emotional intelligence, art studio and tennis. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: secretary@canadian-school.pl.

Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 20, tel. 697 977 600, 697 979 300. The Middle and High unit of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 11-19 year olds. With both Canadian and Polish curricula content

students are given the opportunity to choose between Polish Matura or IB Diploma exams.

International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment.

For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: mid.high@canadian-school.pl.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16. Saska Kępa tel 22 616-14-99 www.saint-exupery.pl First Montessori curriculum in French in Warsaw. The Antoine de Saint-Exupéry preschool is opening in September 2011 a Montessori classroom for children from 2 years old.

$:$.(1 <285 &5($7,9,7<

International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649 1440, 649 1442 or 0603 952 955, www.ias.edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl. The International American School of Warsaw provides pre-Kindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization.

International European School ul. Wiertnicza 75, tel. 22 842 4448, ies@ ies-warsaw.pl. In operation since 2002 the International European School teaches the Polish National Curriculum in English language to both primary and mid-school level.

La Fontaine Polish-French Primary School ul. Okrężna 95, Mokotów, tel. 22 885 0020, www.lafontaine.edu.pl. The school has a Polish-French profile and offers bilingual teaching for children aged from 6 to 12 years old.

The TSKŻ (Towarzystwo Społeczno-Kulturalne Żydów w Polsce) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16 (The Jewish Theater Building). Offers free Hebrew classes on Mon and Tue at 5 pm. Lectures conducted

by Dr. Jacob Weitzner.

Warsaw Montessori School (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

www.warsawinsider.pl

75

classifieds

classifieds

classifieds

Tel: +48 22 702 10 72

• • • • •

• • •

Over 750 students enrolled Over 50 different nationalities Outstanding IB and I/GCSE results Superb facilities in the heart of Warsaw High quality teaching provided by committed British, International and local staff A complete education from 2,5-18 years Following the English National Curriculum Wide range of extracurricular activities

Brit_school.indd 1

l. Limanowskiego 15 u 02-943 Warszawa T: +48 22 843 81 31 F: +48 22 842 81 65 E: admissions@thebritishschool.pl W: www.thebritishschool.pl 11-08-24 08:35

Żaryna Żaryna

Kulskiego Kulskiego

ChoCdhkod łyiaKłyam kieicwzaic BiaB iew Kaiem za ńień

BOOK EXCERPT

SHORTCUTS TO POLAND

“The Number 1 Question,” another chapter in our monthly series from the 3rd edition. Available at the American Bookstore. BY LAURA KLOS SOKOL

”S

o what’s your story?” an American in Poland demanded a few seconds after we met. I knew exactly what kind of information he wanted. He was simply taking a short cut to questions Americans typically ask when they first meet someone: “Where are you from? What do you do? How long have you lived here? What about your family?” Racking up the answers to these vital questions helps us get to know someone. But when we ask Poles these questions, they feel like they’re being interrogated.

Recently, some Poles complained to me about this barrage of queries they get from Americans. I was dumbfounded. Isn’t it flattering and gracious when someone asks you all about yourself? Apparently not.

Americans ask questions to show interest and find common ground with someone new—that is, to get to know someone. Then, that person reciprocates by asking questions too. There’s also a second pattern: You talk about yourself, and the other person responds in kind. Both techniques serve the common goal of ease in sociability.

Granted, there are always egotistical boors for whom “mutual interest” is an alien concept, but let’s chalk that up to a lack of sophistication.

80

Warsaw Insider: 01-30 September 2011

Conversational style depends on personality, background, and, of course, culture. American sociolinguist Deborah Tannen dubbed a common feature of New York conversational style “machine-gun questions”—a rat-a-tattat series of questions to show interest and involvement in conversation. Of course, not everybody likes or feels comfortable with this style but this is the way some Americans approach new Polish acquaintances.

“Americans ask a lot of questions,” warns the culture section of a handbook written by Poles for Poles going to the States to teach and study. “Some of these questions may seem uninformed or elementary. You may be asked very personal questions by someone you have just met.”

But don’t take offense, the handbook advises, “no impertinence is intended.” In other words, when Americans confound you with intrusive nosiness, they’re just trying to be nice and friendly.

The number one question asked by Americans to new acquaintances—“ What do you do?”—might sound a little odd to Poles if it comes out of nowhere. For a long time, work was not considered a source of self-satisfaction in Poland and therefore no guarantee of fruitful conversation. To some extent, this is still true today. And news flash! there are other topics far more interesting than work.

Unfortunately, this puts me at a loss for something to say when I meet someone. What should I ask then? “What’s your shoe size? Do you like dogs? What did you have for lunch today?” This just doesn’t cut it on a social level.

The key is not to rely heavily on questions to jump-start a conversation. Some Poles find a rapid-fire series of questions annoying, although some do find it flattering, and say Americans are open and friendly. But they have other ways of getting to know someone. I used to ask Poles a lot of personal questions and then wonder why they didn’t reciprocate. Sometimes, I felt a little hurt and then started to worry that my personality is so lackluster that it piques little interest.

If they do want to ask something personal, they sometimes say, “Sorry, can I ask you a personal question?” I say yes of course, bracing myself for an inquiry about my salary, pants size or sex life and they just want to know how I learned my faulty Polish or how long I’ve been in Poland.

But now I get it. Poles don’t usually ask personal questions upon meeting someone. Such queries come later; or personal information is revealed gradually over the course of the conversation. Unlike Americans, Poles don’t try to “get to know” someone within the first contact. Over a period of time, they observe you, exchange opinions with you, listen to your stories, problems, jokes and so forth before exchanging personal data.

Seasoned American expatriates are used to this other way of getting to know someone. If someone asks them the short-cut question, “So what’s your story?” the answer just might be a shrug, “Ah, I’ll tell you later.”