Warsaw Insider August 2020 #288

Muranów Uncovered Uprising In Color Summer Essentials!

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

AUGUST 2020

288

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08/2020

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editorial FEATURES

6 Muranów Essentials Glories great and small!

14 Take A Street Andersa 16 Here Is Muranów

Polin’s latest exhibition 17 Mariensztat

Socialist Realist throwback 18 History

The Warsaw Uprising colorized!

20 Summer in the city Six must dos for the month ahead

EAT!

25 First Bite

Coco Bowls 26 Foodie News

Gastro talking points 28 Restaurant Design

Tel Aviv

30 Ice Cream

Vegan Ramen Shop

AUGUST 2020

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

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here’s nothing quite like the anniversary of the Warsaw Uprising to remind us that, in actual fact, we’ve got it pretty good. Lending a sense of perspective to the last few months, our own privations seem trivial when benchmarked against those experienced by people past; but, it should not be forgotten, this was a city that suffered a double trauma during the occupation, with the flattening of the Ghetto acting as a portent for what was to come later. Largely situated in Muranów, we’ve used this issue to deep dive into this district and unmask its often unsung glories. Of course, there’s also more: within these pages find our essential summer shortlist, the latest foodie news, and not to mention our heavily researched rundown of the best seasonal spots for a vat of something boozy. Enjoy!

DRINK! 47 First Sips

ey Account Manager K Adam Fogler afogler@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

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Zagrywki 48 Round-up

Best summer bars

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57 Public Art

Multimedia Fountain Park 60 Culture

Museums 70 Map 72 Looking Back The Warsaw Uprising

on the cover Flying fish? Hell yes – read all about them on p. 57 (Illustration by Kevin Demaria)

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VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2020 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

DISCOVER

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

BURBERRY CANADA GOOSE CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO ONETEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD`S TORY BURCH BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

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THE INSIDER’S FOOD & DRINK HEROES!

#lovewarsawfood&drinks

As the food and drink sector rebounds from the toughest months it has ever faced, the Insider invites you to join us in backing some of our favorite spots in town! We’ve organized the discounts, now all you need to do is turn up and use them!

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Gringo Bar ul. Odolańska 15 / tel. 22 848 95 23 (Mokotów) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) / tel. 786 266 336 (Środmiescie) ul. Dobra 53 / tel. 790 266 336 (Powiśle) gringobar.pl

(offer valid per transaction until the end of August)

Created by hip hop star Bilon, find fresh ingredients utilized to produce Tex Mex burritos, quesadillas and nachos that always hit the spot!

A free drink with any ordered meal Koko & Roy ul. Wilcza 43 tel. 22 699 8564 (Śródmieście) kokoandroywarsaw.com

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Capturing the essence of modern New York, Koko & Roy’s contemporary American menu reflects the dynamic and often eclectic tastes of Manhattan and Brooklyn.

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with the discount code: Warsaw Insider Kur & Wino ul. Andersa 21 tel. 570 580 180 fb.com/kurwino

(offer valid per transaction until the end of August)

A fiercely on-trend neighborhood restaurant, specialties of Kur & Wino include rotisserie chicken from Podlasie, guinea fowl from Wielkopolska as well as standalone vegan dishes and wines of the world.

#lovewarsawfood&drinks

A free humus to any ordered meal Maghreb ul. Burakowska 9 (Ĺťoliborz) tel. 888 785 848 maghreb.pl

(Offer valid with this coupon till the end of August)

Journey deep into the soul of Morocco at Maghreb, a lively restaurant showcasing intriguing Arab tastes and exotic fragrant flavors.

10% discount

with the discount code: Warsaw Insider Mokotowska 69 ul. Mokotowska 69 tel. 664 023 225 mokotowska69.com

(offer valid per transaction until the end of August)

Award-winning seafood and steaks as well as several classis Polish dishes served with a creative spin – no-one leave Mokotowska 69 disappointed!

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MURANÓW Often derided as a bleak, anonymous suburb, Muranów’s rich history and vibrant present have bestowed it with a wealth of sights for the passing visitor…

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NEIGHBORHOOD PROWL

Instagram… A Twix

The absurdities of life in everyday Poland were brought into sharp focus last year when workers removed scaffolding to reveal a thoroughly professional renovation of a historic, Socialist Realist housing estate in the Muranów district. The problem? The work had stopped at the exact point dividing two separate addresses linked by an overhead archway thereby creating a stinging visual contrast between old and new. Overseen by two different housing committees, a miscommunication between the entities governing Nowolipie 1 and Andersa 1 was blamed for the blunder.

News of the debacle quickly went viral, with some seeing it as a stark comment on the lack of dialogue between neighbors. For others, though, this Twix-like building has become an Instagram must!

Take… A Park Break

Seen as the green lungs of Muranów, Krasiński Gardens was first opened as a public park in 1765 and today its immaculately preened lawns draw groups of middle class friends armed with hampers and their own sets of boules.

Featuring a bounty of quiet alcoves, curling pathways and decorative ponds, neither is it short of historic memorials such as, for instance, plaques recalling soldiers who fought in the vicinity during uprisings in both 1830 and 1944.

Count… The Elves

No two ways about it, Paradox (Anielewicza 2) has become a Warsaw legend. Describing themselves as a ‘fantasy asylum’, it’s to here that dudes with trench coats and Doc Martens head to engage in ‘for hire’ board games with names like The Hobbit and Beowulf. Sparingly decorated with a map of Mordor and hand-painted figures of orcs and goblins, it’s a true one-of-a-kind that’s geeky, freaky and fabulous fun.

PA R K L I F E I N K R A S I Ń S K I

Get… Cultured

Opened in 1951 on a plot that had originally been earmarked to serve as a carpark, Kino Muranów (Andersa 5) was Poland’s first two-screen cinema and quickly became the beating heart of the area’s cultural life. Designed in bombastic Socialist Realist style by Michał Ptic-Borkowski it has retained much of its original splendor whilst simultaneously thriving on a reputation for showcasing independent and often arty films.

Hark… To Different Times

A throwback to pre-war times, Leandro Marconi’s fountain

by Kino Muranów depicts three boys holding an oar, a net and a trident, and was first erected in 1866 on Krakowskie Przedmieście. Shifted to make way for the Mickiewicz statue a few decades on, today it’s juxtaposed between a post-war housing estate, a metro stop and Pl. Bankowy’s

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T H E I N I M I TA B L E M A R K O F M A R C O N I

For others, though, this Twix-like building has become an Instagram must

TWIX: WHICH SIDE ARE YOU ON?

cumbersome Blue Tower (sited on the former footprint of the Great Synagogue, the skyscraper itself took 26-years to complete, apparently only after a rabbi’s curse was lifted). Visually, the scene epitomizes the capital’s disjointed aesthetic to a tee.

Be… A Spy

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Casting a sense of behind-closed-doors mystery over Muranów is the Chinese Embassy (Bonifraterska 1). Built between 1956 and 1959, and designed by a team led by the esteemed Romauld Gutt, this forbidding compound affords passers-by a teasing glimpse within via the gaps in an impenetrable-looking fence: peering into this secret world, one is met by the sight of a decorative pagoda and lavishly trimmed gardens shrouded in shadows. The imagination runs wild!

Revel… In Neon

Neon abounds in Muranów, but whilst the majority is of the newer, retro revival variety, a couple golden oldies can also be discovered. At Nowolipki 13, for instance, sits the colorful Mydła Farby sign, now restored to its rightful place after a temporary (and controversial) residence at the Neon

Museum. Also noteworthy is the lemon-tinted GalSkór sign on Andersa 35. Dating from 1959, it was brought back from the dead six-years back following a successful crowdfunding campaign.

Wave… At A Willy

When visiting West German Chancellor Willy Brandt famously sank to his knees in front of the Monument to the Heroes of the Ghetto Uprising in 1970 his spontaneous act did much to sow the seeds of German-Jewish reconciliation.

Thirty years after, his iconic Kniefall was commemorated by way of a commemorative wall and plaque found in the north-west of the park housing the Polin Museum.

>>>

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MONTE CASSINO MEMORIAL

LU D W I K Z A M E N H O F M E E T S CLINT EASTWOOD

This jolly piece of wall art mirrors Zamenhof's wise, universal outlook on life by presenting a quirky collection of characters that include Yoda, Einstein and that donkey from Shrek

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

R O C K O N ! GA R D E N AT D U B O I S 1 2

Hunt… The Murals

Though hardly as high profile as those found in Praga, Ursynów and Mokotów, the area of Muranów hasn’t escaped the city’s fixation with murals. Of the more notable is Swanski’s tribute to the scientific achievements of Marie Skłodowska-Curie on Nowolipki 11, a quirky celebration of the pre-war characters of Leszno street on Solidarności 78, a boy solider on the side of the school at Lewartowskiego 2, and a stupidly wonderful nod to Ludwik Zamenhof (the creator of the Esperanto language) on Nowolipki 4. Having spent much of his life in the area, this jolly piece of wall art mirrors his wise, universal outlook on life by presenting a quirky collection of characters that include Yoda, Einstein and that donkey from Shrek.

Go… To Jail

Though the museum remains closed until further notice due to the coronavirus, Pawiak Prison’s defining feature remains free to visit: once a Tsarist jail, the site achieved lasting notoriety during the war when the Nazis executed approximately 37,000 people within the grounds. Blown to smithereens at the end of the war, a fragment of the entrance gate survives alongside a preserved tree bedecked with obituary notices of some of those that died.

Bust… A Ghost

Uncover… A Secret Garden

The planners charged with rebuilding Muranów post-war strove to ensure that the newly-built blocks had access to shared, community-minded green areas, but even they could never have envisioned what would become of the area by Dubois 12. Swing by here to find a pair of eccentric rock gardens festooned with toy dinosaurs, cuddly animals, pieces of crockery, butterfly wings, house plants and miscellaneous random junk. Why? No, we don’t have a clue either.

Admire… An Engineering Marvel!

Decidedly unspectacular compared to some of Warsaw’s churches, NMP on Solidarności 80 is actually something of an engineering marvel. In 1962 plans to widen the street presented architects two options: demolish the church (unthinkable in such a staunchly Catholic country) or attempt to move it back. They chose the latter: so it was on the evening of November 30th that the entire structure was jacked up on six tracks and 420 rollers and shifted a distance of 21-meters. Moved at a rate of six centimeters per minute, at 4.45 a.m. a pair of flashing headlights announced the action’s successful completion to the gathered cheering masses.

For things that go bump in the night, the Paca Palace on Miodowa 15 is said to be home to the ghost of Marcin Radziwiłł, a loony aristocrat that lived here from his birth in 1705 up until his death in 1756. When he wasn’t immersed in his search for the Philosopher’s Stone or studying ancient Hebrew script, Radziwiłł was known for terrorizing his wife, keeping his own children locked from the outside world, burning down neighboring buildings and, reputedly, keeping young girls hostage. If you’re unlucky, you’ll see him darting around outside, trembling and seeking shelter from the shadows.

Respect… The Fallen

Plonked between Krasiński Gardens and the Arsenał urban explorers will come face-to-face with a 12-meter, pristine white monument honoring Poland’s crucial contribution to the Allied victory at Monte Cassino. Unveiled in 1999 by the widow of General Anders, the epic 220-ton memorial features the emblems of Polish units involved in the battle, a figure of the Virgin Mary and urn containing the ashes of some of Poland’s fallen.

Do… The Essential

Opened in 2013, the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews has gone on to become one of the country’s major tourist attractions pulling – pre-Covid – approximately half a million visitors per year. Celebrating Poland’s one-thousand years of Jewish history – rather than simply spotlighting the Holocaust – it’s an essential part of any Muranów itinerary. Formerly a recipient of the European Museum of the Year Award, the depth of its content, the style of its presentation and even its architecture combine to make it a simply unforgettable experience. >>> warsawinsider.pl

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NEIGHBORHOOD PROWL

Visit… The Station

A SEVENTIES SWEDISH S T U N N E R : I N T R AC O

Dworzec Gdański’s role in local history shouldn’t be overlooked: in March 1968, it was here many Jewish locals departed on the first stage of their journey to Israel following the government’s antisemitic campaign, and it was here years later that David Bowie found himself on a brief stopover. Taking a walk to a local record store, what he saw inspired him to write the haunting instrumental Warszawa.

Nowadays a number of murals can be found adorning the underpasses, among them those commemorating the Jewish migration as well as a number celebrating PolishUkrainian relations.

Be… Patriotic

Find Poland tallest flagpole, and indeed the country’s biggest flag, taking center stage at Rondo Radosława. Measuring 60-meters in height, and flying an electrically-hoisted 100-meter banner from the top, it was erected in 2014 to honor a number of key historical dates: the centenary of WWI, the 70th anniversary of the Warsaw Uprising, the 25th anniversary of Poland’s Third Republic and the 10th anniversary of EU accession. Dubbed ‘the Freedom Mast’, it was designed by the same studio responsible for the National Stadium.

Look… Up Above

Completed in 1975, the Intraco skyscraper on Stawki 2 was, for three years, Warsaw’s tallest office building. Built by the Swedes (who were also responsible for the Novotel and Intraco II around about the same era), it was part of Warsaw’s first wave of international standard skyscrapers and during its PRL heyday housed as many as sixty foreign companies. Despite its somewhat awkward appearance, it’s symbolic of the unsustainable boom that preceded Poland’s economic collapse in the 1980s.

the reconstruction of Nowy Świat, the development of the MDM district and the design of the Metropol Hotel.

Know… Your Local Hero

See… The Arsenal

Creep… Up To The Cops

Best-known / feared as the city’s police HQ, the honeycolored Mostowski Palace strikes quite a pose when illuminated at night. Redesigned in neo-classical style in the 1820s by Antonio Corazzi, it’s in this building that Chopin once played and where a 19th century publishing house founded by Tadeusz Mostowski once flourished using fonts imported from Paris and Leipzig. Left gutted after the Warsaw Uprising, it was rebuilt after the war by Zygmunt Stępiński, an architect whose portfolio included

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No, not the football team, in this case the Arsenal refers to what was formerly the city’s primary munitions depot. Hotly contested during various national and local uprisings, its finest moment undoubtedly came in 1943 when twentyeight members of a paramilitary scout group successfully ambushed a German prison van outside, and in the process freed a group of Polish prisoners being transported from Pawiak Prison to the Gestapo HQ on Szucha.

Follow… Jewish Trails

Though all traces of the Ghetto were obliterated by the Germans, trails relating to the war abound by way of markers showing the boundary of the former Ghetto, boulders noting rising related points and a scattering of larger-scale memorials. Of the latter, the biggies are the Stawki’s Umschlagplatz (the rail siding from which over a quarter of a million Jews were bundled into cattle wagons destined for Treblinka), Miła 18 (where once stood a fortified bunker from where the Ghetto Uprising was conducted) and Monument to the Heroes of the Ghetto Uprising. Unveiled in 1948, the latter was partially built from materials first ordered from Sweden by Albert Speer to build Nazi monuments.

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

As local heroes go, they don’t come any bigger than Marek Edelman. Assuming command of the Jewish rebels during the Ghetto Uprising after their original leader committed suicide, Edelman ultimately survived the war to become a renowned cardiologist, patriot and social activist. Passing away in 2009, it was also he that popularized the tradition of remembering the Jewish insurgency by placing daffodils at historical sites connected with the rising. In 2016 a mural depicting Edelman holding aloft a flower was added to the school at Karmelicka 26 a stone’s throw from where he once fought the Nazis.

Though all traces of the Ghetto were obliterated by the Germans, trails relating to the war abound

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NEIGHBORHOOD PROWL

TAKE A STREET: ANDERSA

DROŻDŻ

FAT WHITE Andersa 6 Attached to one of the hippest, most Instagramable barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a half-mad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that

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DOBRZE CO-OP

references Muranów’s past – just being here is a joy!

KUR & WINO Andersa 21 It’s hard to fault a concept when it’s executed this well.

In this case, that means chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska cooked rotisserie-style and then served either whole or halved on wooden trays with an array of homemade sauces that include sweet plum, spicy mango and Sriracha. Sure, you could call it street food, but doing so underestimates the level of love and attention awarded

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ROSZKI

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT KEVIN DEMARIA, DROŻDŻ, KEVIN DEMARIA, ED WIGHT (2)

Formerly recognized for its brutally dehumanizing architecture and Orwellian atmosphere, Andersa street has evolved to become something of micro scene rich in hip haunts and happening stores. That’s thanks in no small part to these ten neighborhood legends...

for fruity forays such as those provided by their blackcurrant and mango lassi options.

FAT W H I T E

CRAFT BEER MURANÓW

to the product. That you’ll be enjoying it in a cool, funky backdrop makes it all the better: outside, sit amid crates filled with palms, inside, among funky-style furnishings that pair well with the PRL look of this high-ceilinged chamber.

RADIO TELEWIZJA Andersa 29 It’s often said that the internet killed the bookshop; while there’s an element of truth to that, the bare facts haven’t stopped a number of romantics from plugging away and placing their faith in paper. Although their name suggests otherwise, Radio Telewizja are part of this shrinking band of stores that persist with the printed word, and the

way they do so deserves an ovation. Tinctured with a retro atmosphere, it’s a place to pop in for a coffee, catchup on local news and gossip and browse through an extraordinary offer of quirky reading material that specializes in local art and architecture and recent(ish) history.

ROSZKI Andersa 37 Although it looks rather budget-minded, Roszki have won hearts for an offer that’s especially strong on chocolate-based ice creams. The chocolate habanero comes with a fiery twist and a fan club that extends beyond Muranów’s geographic borders though big points are also scored

SEBASTIAN ŻUKOWSKI Andersa 31 Working in the trade since the age of sixteen, Sebastian Żukowski’s bespoke tailoring solutions are just the ticket for those looking to impart a sense of timeless style to their look.

Drawing his inspirations from the deepest traditions of the craft, head to this artisanal workshop to channel your inner gentleman.

CRAFT BEER MURANÓW Andersa 23 Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their growing reputation as one of the finest tap bars with a suburban postcode. Split over two levels, as basic as the aesthetic is (screechy chairs and some murals that reference the brewing process), it’s an atmosphere that feels warm and clattery and like a local pub should. Deserving credit for their consistency (a dodgy pint is totally unheard of), look to CBM’s sixteen taps for renegade beers that push frontiers.

DROŻDŻ ul. Andersa 22 The seeming simplicity of the design belies its striking beauty: like strange, alien planets, spherical lights dangle from the tall ceilings casting the concrete colored interiors in a pinkish-amber glow that feels tastefully restrained.

Food-wise, you’ll enjoy it. A zillion steps beyond what you’d expect from a neighborhood pizzeria, find wonderful leopard-spotted pizzas that are by far the best in this slice of Warsaw.

DOBRZE CO-OP Andersa 27 The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture.

Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces.

FERAJNA Andersa 6 Complete with a red and white stripey pole outside, everything about this barber emporium is cool and considered. Though larger than many of their competitors, the reason for their size becomes absolutely clear cut – such is their popularity, they need every square inch.

Hailed by many as the city’s premier male grooming experience, give your hair and whiskers some TLC courtesy of their team of tattooed experts.

BAR GDANSKI Andersa 33 First opened some time in the 50s, Gdanski served the local community right up until 2017 – closed that spring, what happened next was an energetic refit to give the ageing space a new lease of life. Gone are the plastic plants, putrid smells and that slow feeling of death, replaced instead by a fresher look in keeping with the times.

Despite this, the historic core of this milk bar has been retained including the daffodil colors and original floor tiles. Cheap and cheerful, Muranów would never feel the same without the presence of good ole’ Bar Gdański. warsawinsider.pl

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Here Is Muranów

Delayed due to the covid-related lockdown, POLIN’s Muranów exhibition is at last open and winning the plaudits it deserves…

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

W

hen, in 1686, Simone Giuseppe Bellotti – the Polish Royal Court’s architect – built a palace close to the site of today’s Intraco tower, could he ever have envisaged what would become of the area over the centuries that followed? Could he have imagined that it would serve as a thriving melting pot of Jewish culture, or the untold horrors to which it would later bear witness? And from this death and destruction, could Bellotti have dreamed of the district’s rebirth and subsequent revival? It is not so much unlikely as it is utterly implausible, for the story of the area as told in POLIN’s Here Is Muranów exhibition is nothing if not fantastic in its preposterous peaks and troughs.

Choosing to name it Murano, after the Venetian island from which he hailed, Bellotti’s horseshoe-shaped palace found itself increasingly absorbed into the expanding city of Warsaw. From such quiet beginnings, by the late-19th century this northern outpost had become the center of Europe’s Jewish life and given the presence of its defining feature, the palace, it was natural that along the way this area became popularly known as Muranów.

As anticipated, this heyday is core to the exhibition, with a

striking counter-balance provided by the post-war, post-Jewish reality. And in between it all, acting as a dividing line, is the wartime period, which is the note on which it all begins.

Although light on physical exhibits, what there is finds itself used to maximum effect, such as an opening spread showcasing a fraction of the 5,000 everyday objects recovered from the POLIN site during excavations conducted between 1998 and 2009.

Almost a metaphor for the lost community they pay testament to, it is perhaps no coincidence that these items are both beautiful and shattered. “They are carriers,” reads the accompanying text, “of an encoded record of the Holocaust that insists on being decoded.”

What was lost when the Nazis chose to seal off the area and turn it into the largest Ghetto of the Third Reich can barely be understood, but despite that we are given a powerful insight as to the district’s global importance.

“Nalewki Street was the essence of Jewish Warsaw,” we are told, a place where “elegant tenements and seedy annexes” stood side-by-side, “where beauties mixed with eyesores and the sacred with the profane. Nalewki was a separate universe, a myth, a legend, and the only such street in the world.”

Though refusing – like the rest of the museum – to be defined by the Holocaust, this chapter’s conspicuous role in Muranów’s story isn’t overlooked. Reliant on jarring images and in-depth captions, we are regaled with the hardships that ensued, the desperation, the fear and the gnawing hunger. But it is arguably the testimony provided by one of the 160 Polish firemen pressganged into service by the Nazis for the duration of the 1943 Ghetto Uprising that perhaps strikes the loudest note. Recruited solely to prevent blazes spreading to the Aryan sections of the city, one such fireman is moved to recall: “instead of putting out fires, we were made to watch them; instead of saving people, we were made to helplessly witness their death and torment.”

It was with murderous efficiency that the Nazis suppressed the war’s biggest Jewish insurrection, thereafter choosing to eradicate all traces of Jewish Warsaw by laying waste to the district; reduced to a vast sea of bricks, it is said that in some parts the rubble

Although light on physical exhibits, what there is finds itself used to maximum effect

stood three to four stories high – unbelievably almost, this smashed detritus would be utilized as building material for the new Muranów that would rise on the ashes of the old.

Working to a plan devised by Bohdan Lachert in 1948, the reconstruction that followed was energetic and breakneck in its pace. Trained as bricklayers, women constituted 30% of the workforce and by March 1950 Muranów’s new flock of residents began moving into this model socialist estate – the first being Franciszek Kapliński, a janitor appointed to look after a block of apartments on what is now Solidarności.

The optimism of this era and the ambition of Lachert’s project resonates particularly strongly, and it is on the topic of the reconstruction that the exhibition truly excels. On Andersa, new arrivals wooed by the giant dimensions of the complex marveled at what they referred to as “Stalin’s palaces”, while taken as a whole others praised Lachert for a concept that rendered the new Muranów a self-sufficient community that took into account such essentials as infrastructure and the day-to-day needs of those that now lived there. After the bloodletting of the previous years, this was a brave, new world that offered hope and relief.

On a micro level, the exhibition also succeeds in mining little gems of information, for instance presenting the curious story of a historic Mirabelle tree, a potted history of the Inflancka estate (which rose partially in the area that the Germans once used to deport Jews to the gas chambers) and its seminal part in director Krzysztof Kieślowski’s Dekalog series, and the wacky story of the Miracle of Nowolipki (a moment in time when up to 10,000 people descended on St. Augustine’s Church to view the hovering figure of the Virgin Mary). Neither skirting Muranów’s brief decline after the nation’s post-communist transformation, this is the story of how an area burdened by the tragedy of its past emerged from the wreckage to become a symbol of the future.

Here Is Muranów POLIN (ul. Anielewicza 6), polin.pl Admission: zł. 20 / 15 warsawinsider.pl

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HISTORY

The Warsaw Uprising…

In Color Having amassed nearly 70,000 followers on Facebook, Mikołaj Kaczmarek has become one of the country’s best known graphic artists specializing in the colorization of historic photos. This issue he selects his most powerful works connected to the insurgency that nearly cost the city its existence…

WI: How complex is the colorization process?

MK: I work using an ordinary graphic tablet that doesn’t really require any super advanced hardware. As for the coloring process, that in itself isn’t all that difficult – the real challenge is to make the colors look natural. You need to make the photo come to life so it looks genuine rather than like a painting. Doing so can take anything from fifteen minutes to fifteen hours!

How authentic are your colors?

That’s the question I’m asked the most on my fan page and I always say that you could probably measure the accuracy to be around 80%. It’s hard to reproduce everything as it should be, in fact, probably impossible. The important thing is to get details such as the uniforms, medals and insignia correct, the rest is more a matter of intuition.

How did this all begin for you?

It started less than four years ago: I was inspired by those WWII documentaries you get in color, especially by the fact that as a viewer you found yourself connecting closer to those times when they were presented in color. The turning point for me though was when a color film about the Warsaw Uprising was released; after that I decided to try my own hand at restoring color. At first I treated it almost as a game, then it became a passion, and finally a profession.

How has the public reaction been?

Honestly speaking, I never expected anything like this! More so, I never imagined it would become such a mission to commemorate these heroes that fought for our freedom.

But yes, the feedback has been brilliant – after just four months I was getting interview requests from the media, and I remember being so nervous when the Polska Times interviewed me! Looking back, my work wasn’t even half as good then as it is now. But it’s not just about the media.

Every day I get people writing to me saying how much they’ve enjoyed my work, but it’s especially moving when veterans themselves message me. That’s when you really understand you’ve done something important.

For more on Mikołaj and his work, see: fb.com/KolorHistorii

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SUMMER IN THE CITY

As temperatures climb to reach their annual peak, hit the outdoors to enjoy the city at its skimpy, sunny best!

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With international tourism practically killed off for the summer, there’s no better time to rediscover the capital through the lens of a visitor. That’s especially true of the Old Town; usually deluged this time of year with out-of-towners, backpackers, tour groups and other selfie-posing irritants, this summer has presented a unique opportunity to reclaim the historic center if only temporarily. Eerily quiet, you’re left with the sensation of walking an Old Town built specifically for yourself. And once you’re done, hop onto a sightseeing bus or take the opportunity to refamiliarize yourself with museums that you forgot even existed. With Warsaw’s international reputation surging in recent years, it’s the first time in years that the city feels truly oriented towards the locals – normal service will eventually resume, so in the meantime take advantage and use this quiet period to the max.

PHOTOGRAPHS LEFT TO RIGHT KEVIN DEMARIA (2), ED WIGHT

Six For The Summer ACT THE TOURIST

STREET ART SAFARI GET WILD ON THE WISŁA! Given the ongoing pandemic it’s entirely forgivable that you The world over cities have reclaimed their river spaces, may be thinking about avoiding museums and galleries: but the welcome news when it comes to the latter is that Warsaw has, to an extent, become a giant open air gallery over the course of this century. Reflecting the creativity that courses through the city, the city’s once gloomy, grey walls have become a conduit through which the town’s artists have channeled their spirit through the medium of XXL murals.

In this respect, the gritty streets of Old Praga are the most famous, but this district’s reputation as the city’s street art heartland is now under threat from, of all places, the dormitory suburb of Ursynów. The truth is though that nowhere has proved safe from this ultra-cool form of expression: whether it’s Bowie in Żoliborz, Mokotów’s Mechanical Centaur, Muranów’s historical figures, or the center’s innovative hand-painted commercial murals, the city offers untold opportunities for arty exploration.

thrusting them to the fore to act as their calling card and sign-off. In this, Warsaw was slow off the mark, but where once you would have had the impression of a city playing catch-up, today the Polish capital has been heralded as a leader and innovator when it comes to the revival of its riverside. Not, you must understand, that there was anything to revive. Once seen as little more than a muddy, slimy mess, the reinvention of the left side has been staggering and has bestowed Warsaw with boulevards packed solid with walkways, cultural institutions and… late-night bars. In fact, so famous is its nocturnal scene now that The Guardian has been moved to claim it as one of the Top Ten in Europe.

We wouldn’t disagree. All the better is that this is counterbalanced by a right bank that's wild in a completely different manner: untamed and full of tangled vegetation, it's a joy to explore. warsawinsider.pl

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GET ACTIVE! CHASE THE SUNSET If, like us, you used the lockdown to fill out on home-delivered On the right night, Warsaw’s candy-colored skies promise curry then you might want to think about losing the excess tons and doing something healthy. No longer the lethal pastime it once was, today cyclists have over 500 kilometers of bike lanes to enjoy as well as one of the Central Europe’s most successful bike share programs: with (most) bridges now also offering cycle-friendly paths, spend the day crisscrossing the Wisła on bike or get ambitious and bomb it down to out-of-town gems such as the ruins of Czersk Castle. For something more watery, head to Skaryszewski Park to rent a leaky rowing boat, or to the lake beyond Wilanów Palace to paddle out across the inky black waters. Use Warsaw as your gym!

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an ethereal experience that inspire poetic flights of fancy.

The bell tower of St. Anne’s (Krakowskie Przedmieście 68) rewards those who pant up its 147 steps with glorious views of the Old Town below, while the zany rooftop garden of the BUW Library is all the better for being slashed with futuristic walkways and tumbling plants. With the viewing platform of the Gotham-esque Palace of Culture closing at 8 this year, instead haul yourself to the deep south to climb Warsaw’s longest stairwell before enjoying endless city views from the top of Kopiec Powstania Warszawskiego (ul. Bartycka). Created from war rubble, the 141-meter mound is crowned by a monument to the Warsaw Uprising and a ceremonial pyre. Of the bridges, Gdański comes scissored in shadows from its criss-crossing steel support pillars, while the river’s natural bend and the distant glinting skyline make Siekierkowski a favorite with professional photographers.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA EXCEPT MIDDLE SHUTTERSTOCK

SUMMER IN THE CITY

JOIN A HAPPENING Social distancing is still a thing – and rightfully so – but that

hasn’t prevented numerous institutions from gathering people in safe numbers to enjoy the summer to its fullest.

That’s certainly apparent by way of the number of places such as Centrum Praskie Koneser and Elektrownia Powiśle offering a busy program of al fresco cinema screenings in well-spaced, industrial surrounds. Likewise, summer street food gatherings such as those offered at Luna Park and Nocny Market are also back on the agenda, though if you want to keep it a little more personal then just haul out the BBQ and head to the city’s more user-friendly public spaces: in terms of this, Pole Mokotowskie has long been seen as the peoples’ park, though nothing screams summer more than an open-air grill set up on the beaches below Most Poniwatowskiego.

Social distancing is still a thing but that hasn’t prevented numerous institutions from gathering people in safe numbers to enjoy the summer to its fullest

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First Bite As a space Coco Bowls is the very embodiment of complete urban chill: designed with a less is more aesthetic, find a jungle of succulents set against pre-war floor tiles, pristine white walls and raw timber add-ons – to be here is to drop a few gears and live life in the slow lane. That, though, might be difficult for the time being given that – temporarily at least – they’re operating on a takeout / delivery basis only after being hit with what they describe as ‘idiotic regulations’. So is it still worth your time? Absolutely. Specializing in maverick bowls of healthy goodness, the undisputed highlight are the Nice Cream Power Bowls containing super food combos, piles of fruit and slushy, icy finishes. Featuring also a range of homemade tonics, lemonades and smoothies, not to mention plant milks and raw vegan sweets (must try: the chocolate brownie) Coco Bowls is nothing if not eccentric, unpredictable and utterly delicious.

Coco Bowls Górnośląska 16, fb.com/cocobowlswarszawa

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PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

BOWLED OVER!

EAT!

FOODIE NEWS STAR POWER

CULINARY GOALS

Football megastar Robert Lewandowski is to sink cash into an ambitious floating fish restaurant in the Mazurian town of Giżycko. Valued at a cool zł.

71 million, the entire project will see the creation of a luxury ‘Water World’ complex featuring a marina at its core. This, though, is not the first time the Bayern Munich striker has demonstrated an interest in gastronomy. Late last year it was announced that Poland’s record all-time goal scorer would front a sports-themed restaurant in Wola’s soonto-launch Browary Warszawskie complex.

With his eponymous Michelin-starred restaurant still closed as a result of the coronavirus, Wojciech Amaro has used the time to his advantage by launching a new project down south in Zakopane. Located inside the five star Nosalowy Park Hotel & Spa, Heart

by Amaro seeks to connect Poland’s culinary heritage with the past in a way that can be understood and enjoyed by all – including kids.

Commonly credited with revolutionizing Polish cuisine, Amaro became the first Pole to win a Michelin star and has since become a household name thanks to shows such as Top Chef and Hell’s Kitchen.

SALSICCIA

PIZZA THE ACTION

As if Poles didn’t love it enough already, there can be few foods that fared better than pizza during the lockdown.

And with life returning to some semblance of normal, the city has seen a rash of pizzerias opening including the Neapolitan-style Tutti Amici on Chłodna 48, a pair of pizza by the slice places on Chmielna (the creatively titled Pizza Na Chmielnej at No. 14 and Pizza By The Slice at No. 2), Diverso on the site of the former Mama Marietta (Górnośląska 24), a new branch of Ciao a Tutti on Hübnera 2 and the excellent Cytryny na Powiślu (Topiel 10). And while Salsiccia (Łukowska 7A) has been around since last year, we’re sticking it inside this round-up of newbies seeing we’ve only just discovered it (more fool us, the place is outstanding despite it far-flung location).

Of the big hotel openings we’ve seen before, few have been as anticipated as August’s launch of Nobu (Wilcza 73). Famously founded by Meir Teper, Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring actor by the name of Robert De Niro, it’s a space that promises simplicity, elegance and minimalism, not to mention a harmonious sense of modern, zen-like luxury. On the menu, meanwhile, we’re told to expect their signature squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; and black cod miso as well as killer cocktails such as lychee & elderflower martini. We’re visiting soon and can’t wait to tell you all about it in our September edition.

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PRESS MATIRAL

NOBU TIME!

EAT! Design

Tel Aviv Urban Food Zwycięzców 21, fb.com/telaviv.urbanfood.saska

WALLS & PEACE

As more restaurants look to give their space a distinct urban identity, there’s one eatery leads the field…

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PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF TEL AVIV

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ith its leafy streets lined with modernist villas and badly parked jeeps, Saska Kępa isn’t the first name to mind when thinking about raw visceral street art – but that’s just what you’ll find at Tel Aviv’s latest venture. Inspired by the mega hip Florentin district of the Israeli capital, July saw the walls of this cool vegan hangout transformed to echo the powerful chaos and raw multiplicity of the buzzing Mediterranean city.

Extending into the glorious back garden, and executed by the Partners In Crime creative studio, messages of love and peace combine with quirky art, fun slogans and cheeky, often witty drawings. As if mirroring the spirit of the owner, Malka Kafka, it’s a style that relaxes, disarms and immediately engages: in the process, boundaries have been breached to imbue this posh district with the kind of vibrant, alternate swagger it’s for so long clearly lacked. A reflection of this vegan restaurant’s own progressive thinking, rarely has a design felt so in tune with the overriding concept.

EAT! Review

Vegan Ramen Shop Al. Jana Pawła II 52/52, fb.com/veganramenshop

JUST OPENED

AMEN FOR RAMEN

Beginning life as a touring pop-up, the success of Vegan Ramen Shop necessitated the launch of a more permanent space in 2017 – the brand has snowballed ever since. This issue, we visit their newest space on JPII.

WHAT OTHERS SAY

Ranked seventh overall in HappyCow’s Warsaw rankings (fab going given the portal’s 190+ listings), reviews on the planet’s most reliable vegan website are unflinchingly clear: “the best ramen I’ve ever eaten in my life,” writes one user; “these are literally the best noodles in the world,” asserts another. And on it goes.

WHAT THEY SAY

“It might be true that we’re world class,” says co-founder Mają Święcicka. “We hear from people that have been to Tokyo that they’ve never had ramen as good as ours and so of course that makes me proud. We’ve been on the market for a few years, but before that we did a ton of research visiting the best ramen places in Europe and Asia before trying to veganize the tastes that we enjoyed most on our travels. And one thing we’re determined to be is consistent – the importance of consistency is one lesson we can all learn from McDonald’s and that’s something I like to think that we’ve achieved.”

Well, nothing that others haven’t said before. Is it worth the hype? Damn right it is. While featuring cracking seasonal options such as Tomato Ramen it’s the tried and tested legends that get the lines forming (yes, queues aren’t unheard of). On this front, hat’s off to the Spicy Miso Ramen, a rich slurpy broth loaded to the hilt with noodles, pak choi, mung sprouts, chives, chili flakes and a mix of misto pastes. Amped up on request to suit individual heat preferences, enjoy it all in a glass-fronted pavilion capped with a jaunty neon. Sparingly adorned with a Street Fighter arcade machine, a pink surfboard and some token Japanese trimmings, the lo-budget austerity is offset by the cool crowd, LOUD sounds and huge, full-fisted flavors. Before you know it, you’ll know the menu off-by-heart.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

WHAT WE SAY

Delivering Warsaw's Best To You To make an order call tel.+48 22 651 9003 or order online at: www.roomservice.pl

PARTNER

SPOTLIGHT

SAVOR THE TASTE OF SUMMER! Enjoy the season to the max on the new Europejski Grill Terrace…

S

ummer days bring an energy and buzz to the capital but it is also the ideal time to chill out and unwind – and there’s no better place to do so than on on the newly opened Europejski Grill Terrace whilst delighting in the impressive scenery of Piłsudski Square. Set in the very heart of the city, the Europejski Grill Terrace is one of the most inviting venues of the season, a fact further boosted by its selection of mouthwatering dishes.

The specially tailored menu of the Europjeski Grill Terrace includes not only classic summer flavors such as chłodnik (cold beetroot soup), buffalo tomato carpaccio, and rhubarb tart but also such tastes as Scottish salmon, steak tartare, and fresh salad choices with Atlantic lobster tail. For something sweeter, then the Lourse Warszawa patisserie offers a wide selection of exquisite cakes and a

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seasonal ice-cream selection.

The Europejski Grill Terrace is also a great choice for breakfast lovers, with its delicatessen and wide variety of a la carte breakfast choices that range from healthy options to morning classics, while for those still harboring worries about dining out, then rest assured that the Europejski remain fully committed to the health, safety and well-being of their guests: top-notch hygiene practices are standard, and a contactless menu option is available as well.

Europejski Grill Terrace Raffles Europejski Warsaw, Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw To make your reservations: tel. 255 9595

EAT! Listings

By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł. 35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues.

Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues. american 34 chinese 34 comfort food 34 fine dining 36 french 37 georgian 37 greek 38 hungarian 38 indian 38 international 39 italian 41 japanese 42 korean 43 latin & spanish 43 mexican 43 middle eastern 44 polish 45 seafood 45 steak houses 45 thai 46 vegan 46 vietnamese 46

american Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious.

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Fun, innovative and pleasingly casual, it’s a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, kokoandroywarsaw.com

chinese

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar

Bypass (400g of beef with quadruple cheese and bacon). If you want to go down in legend, enter one of their Americanstyle speed eating comps. (D4) ul. Złota 9, barnburger.pl Kura Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the posthipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. The ultimate definition of comfort food, look on Kura as one of the city’s best examples of street food culture gone right. (B2) ul.

Nowolipki 15, restauracjakura.pl Kur & Wino It’s hard to fault a concept when it’s executed this well. In this case, that means chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska cooked rotisserie-style and then served with an array of homemade sauces. And then there’s the sandwiches, beautiful things served on focaccia and smeared with honey mustard. Sure, you could call it street food, but doing so underestimates the level of love awarded to the product.

That you’ll be enjoying it in a cool, funky backdrop makes it all the better: outside, sit amid crates filled with palms, inside, among funky-style furnishings that pair well with the PRL look of this highceilinged chamber. (C1) ul. Andersa 21, fb.com/kurwino

comfort food

Pastrami Bistro This place was practically designed for the new millennial: craft beers, hanging succulents, neon signage and a communal table. Using pastrami as their hero ingredient (you’d never have guessed, right?), find it inside sandwiches, burgers, bowls of shakshuka and even on pizza.

Love it! ul. Solec 50

Barn Burger Considered one of the founding fathers of Warsaw’s burger culture, Barn Burger have withstood the test of time and emerged as the yardstick all others are judged against. Prepped using freshly ground Charolais beef, choices include the jalapeno-laid Muppet and the outrageous

Pogromcy Meatów Dude food doesn’t get much better.

Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the

GURU REDEFINES

MODERN INDIAN CUISINE

Our focus from the start has been to create modern Indian dishes and drinks, served in a relaxed space. We combine local seasonal ingredients with the authentic flavors, aromas and spices of India and the orient.

Widok 8, Warszawa www.gururestauracja.pl facebook.com/gururestauracja TEL. 22 857 0604

EAT! Listings homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. (E6) ul.

Koszykowa 1 Przyjemność It’s a squeeze alright, with all manner of jiggling and jostling needed before taking your position amid a design that feels cool and millennial: plants, wire mesh panels and a bit of funky neon. Food, and Californian pizza is the order of day, with wacky choices including Gringo Chicken, a wondrous creation that features dollops of sour cream and guacamole thwacked onto heaps of achiote chicken, jalapeno, coriander and red onion. It sounds daft, but it’s become our fave pizza of the year – and the spritzers are damn good as well. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 68/70, fb.com/ pizzawarszawska Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl Zkurczybyk Roll in for beautifully juicy chicken inside a crispy, crunchy coat smothered and slathered in an array of sauces ranging from mango-chilli to classic hot; savagely messy, these are things of near profound, holy beauty. Not in the mood for wings?

No problem. Instead, wrap your jaw around buttery, meaty sandwiches the size of a breeze block. And food aside, the hip hop / steam punk vibe (corrugated iron sheets, stools with bicycle pedals for foot rests, ammo boxes, and turntables emblazoned with music heroes), jives well with an atmosphere that’s high on banter and bravado. ul. Poznańska 7

fine dining Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in

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hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F6) ul. Agrykoli 1, belvedere. com.pl Epoka Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space.

Scene of the Insider’s most impressive dining moment of 2019, Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever: stars await, and anything less would be a miscarriage of justice. (D2) ul. Ossolińskich 3, epoka. restaurant Europejski Grill The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware. Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a welltailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31

Nolita For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, nolita.pl PamPam Large spaces, high ceilings, globe-shaped bulbs and plush rouge furnishings lend a sense of refinement to PamPam, a feeling that’s in line with a sophisticated menu that promises much with elegantly presented dishes such as sea bass with herbal curry sauce and oyster mushrooms. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, pampam. com.pl Signature Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 15, signaturerestaurant.pl Szóstka Head to Floor 6 of the swank Hotel Warszawa. There lies Szóstka, a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling. But it’s outside where everyone heads, to a sparsely furnished terrace with killer views of the city below. As for the food, drums please for Dariusz Barański, tipped by some as the next Pole headed for a Michelin star. Over summer, we loved the elegant tomato-based starter, the prime beef rib served as a main, and the sorrel and mint parfait that arrived at the end. In this case, the rave reports seem fully justified. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

EAT! Listings Zoni BEST WAWA 2019 “Modern Polish” Located in a former Tsarist era vodka distillery, the interior revels in cast iron kilns, flooring produced from 19th century vodka barrels, long shadows and industrial bits and pieces that have been lovingly restored. Sprawling, historic and not short on statement, it’s an address to impress. Incoming chef Michał Gniadek has already earned a name as a star of tomorrow and his menu is a committed foray into what he terms as “seasonal international cuisine with a Polish twist”.

Think BBQ pork ribs that land with a thwunk, Agnolotti pasta expertly folded over Oscypek cheese and tuna served tataki-style. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1, zoni.today

french Bistro la Cocotte With access through a shadowy

courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself.

Presenting itself in a riot of red and white gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen and the atmosphere of home. The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jour. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 12

L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just

because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails.

(E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

georgian Chmeli Suneli The ‘modern-folk’ interior blends clean colors and exposed brickwork with slanted timber shelving and bright caricatures of Georgian gents: it looks just fab. Then there’s the food: served in clay pots and on thick, wooden boards, the nosh is wholehearted and ideal for early autumn and those long months ahead.

The experience peaks with the presentation of the grilled, skewered shashliks. ul.

Wilcza 26 Rioni Warsaw’s foodies like talking of ‘cursed locations’, and they don’t get more hexed

Flavours of Warsaw - traditional Polish cuisine with a distinctive modern touch. Everything is made from fresh seasonal ingredients.

Enjoy, among many others, roasted pumpkin steak with quinoa, oyster mushrooms and beetroot purèe.

Or try our mouth watering pork ribs with Jack Daniell’s sauce, roasted potatoes, cherry tomatoes and rocketoasted daddle of deer with chestnuts, smoked celery purèe and pan fried Brussels sprouts.

Or perhaps you have a taste for duck breast with bean puree with French potatoes and marinated strawberries.

To finish off delight in our home made pastries. tel. 48 22 621 82 68 Żurawia str. 47/49 Warsaw www.smakiwarszawy.com

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EAT! Listings than Mokotowska 17. But despite its history of failed ventures, Rioni feel better placed than most to break the jinx. Set in a curving brick room lit by dangling overhead bulbs, join a young-ish crowd for juicy Georgian dumplings oozing with meat and herbs, hearty soups and big, doughy wheels of cheese-filled chaczapuri. ul. Mokotowska 17

to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – enjoying it is easy. ul.

Egipska 7, kregliccy.pl/santorini

Rusiko To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master.

There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better. Al. Ujazdowskie 22

Borpince Modernized versions of traditional Magyar cuisine come served in surrounds that feel even more familial given the 100-odd wines from the various regions of Hungary. (D4) ul. Zgoda 1, borpince.pl

greek & turkish Maho The generic diner decor bothers no-one, and for pretty good reason – the food is thunderbolt good. Get the Iskender: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of tomato sauce and fresh pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Mr. Greek Souvlaki Enticing with its cute, pocket-size dimensions, array of pot plants and navy blue colors, Mr. Greek bubbles with homespun warmth. The menu is a simple work but the quality is outstanding: fluffy pitas wrapped around freshly grilled chicken; skewers of pork; piping hot pots of moussaka; and delicious meatball-style dishes that are devoured within moments.

Warsaw has enjoyed good Greek food before, but now it can offer something even better. A place of authentic hospitality and fabulous food, that this is a labor of love is manifestly obvious from the moment one enters. ul. Londyńska 16 Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value

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indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave.

Committed fans should keep in mind their Praga outpost in the Koneser complex, reputed to serve the only ‘Indian tapas’ in the country – we’ll visit soon. (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bombajmasala.pl Bombaj Masala Praga Looks-wise it’s a feast for the eyes with 1,760 copper pipes hanging from the ceiling to generate a warming glow that mixes naturally with the brick finishes and spirited works of art. Differing from their mothership on JPII, the menu here involves street food-style tapas such as flat-fried Kachori dumplings and crispy cauliflower pakoras to outstanding tandoori dishes like marinated zander with garlic chili sauce. And when you want it hot, the Kerala lamb curry comes with

the capacity to challenge all the senses as it sends you into sniffles of unbridled joy. (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), bombajmasala.pl/praga Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curry-house.pl Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume the same consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl

Guru Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians.

The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water.

From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. Plus points for Indian-themed cocktails that really hit the mark – easily one of our favorite openings of 2018. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl Smak Curry There’s been a nationwide pandemic of average Indian restaurants, but despite

EAT! Listings the rather slim menu Smak Curry can’t be included in that list of disappointments. On the contrary, what the menu lacks in size it compensates in taste: from big, walloping whacks of lavishly spiced pork Madras to sweet but subtle mango chicken, here’s a restaurant that feels it genuinely adds something extra to a saturated market.

Complimented by bright, modern interiors and sunny, friendly wait staff, it’s a place that makes a blue day feel that extra bit better. (E8) ul. Belwederska 44

of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef. (E5) ul.

Górnośląska 24, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping

board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl Bułkę przez Bibułkę Like their other ventures, there’s an enduring feeling of warmth and that’s despite the outsized dimensions: set in one of the hulking PRL leftovers that line

international Ale Wino You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. (F5) ul.

Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl Bibenda Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect.

Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts.(D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 10, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number

Plac Inwalidów 10 | tel. 22 322 82 28 | www.trattoriarucola.pl fb.com/TrattoriaRucola | Insta.com/TrattoriaRucolaWarszawa warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings Żurawia, the ceilings seemingly reach for miles but so too do the windows, leaving Bułkę basking in the comforting glow of the morning sun. Bristling with palm fronds and pot plants, the place buzzes through the day with clamor, clatter and lively conversation – come here for all-day breakfasts that include the hefty Lumberjack, and check back in March to see if their bakery’s up-and-running. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12 Dyletanci Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neobistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. (F5) ul.

Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej Pristine in its whiteness, the corner tenement housing Kieliszki looks like a big wedge of wedding cake. Justly, the interiors are every bit as delicious with their glimmering glass and geometric patterns.

All this though pales into insignificance on account of a menu that’s noted for its rich,

strident tastes and loving presentation: on this juror’s visit, that meant suckling pig bathed in mustard home brew, and a walloping dessert of honey cake and plum jam. Our experience was not some oneoff: in an area thick with good restaurants, consider Kieliszki as one of the best. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Kromki Better known for kebab stores and booze outlets, this section of JPII does at times chuck up the occasional surprise: Kromki, for one. The menu is a Jack-of-all-trades, with pizza and burgers rubbing shoulders against pierogi, steak and sharing plates.

Yet despite the randomness of the choices and the curious location, there’s something here that really strikes the right note. Expect tastes that work inside a informal, casual space that’s fast taking off as a local secret. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as

chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, restauracjaloft.pl MOD BEST WAWA 2019“Casual Dining” An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised

by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers and contributors to Vice. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister.

Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: on our last visit, the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Restauracja Forty It’s not so much a garden that Forty have, but a whole bloody park! Set within a Tsarist era complex who battered fortifications have since been turned over to house ad agencies and think tanks, the interiors aren’t shabby either with the huge space filled with checkered flooring, industrial girders, elaborate lighting arrangements and tables made from retrieved barn doors. The menu is where it gets really good, however, with an array of little plates that present seasonal produce with unexpected forays down uncharted paths: oyster mushrooms, for example, served inside pillowy bao with rice mayonnaise or sorrel soup that’s so vivid and refreshing as to defy expectations. ul. Racławicka 99, restauracjaforty.pl

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EAT! Listings Restauracja Warszawska BEST WAWA 2019 “Newcomer” Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue.

Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s not a big menu, but it doesn’t need to be: exceptional in every respect, this restaurant has become one of foodie Warsaw’s biggest talking points.

(D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2019“Neo-Bistro” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of

atmosphere you can’t get enough of.

Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups.

Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Stixx Wola: what was once a sad, dusty wasteland has blossomed to become the business district of tomorrow.

Nowhere symbolizes this evolution as much as Europejski square with its glittering towers and fancy water features. Looking onto all that is Stixx, a smart, spacious hangout that’s as slick and international as the guests that visit. A well-oiled operation, its diverse menu, professional staff and consistent quality control mark it out as ideal for sealing the deal. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, stixx.pl

italian Altro Locale Set in a quiet section of Old Mokotów, it’s little wonder the plaudits haven’t ceased.

Owned by chef Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. You can tell Carillo has invested his heart and soul in this venture, and the result is an ever-changing menu featuring lamb chops, sirloin, and sea bream done the Italian way – don’t think you’ll be getting any pizza here!

Fittingly, its reputation is now extending beyond the district’s natural border. (E8) ul. Willowa 9 Dziurka od Klucza Upping sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team have magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before:

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EAT! Listings knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples that go far beyond mere good. This they do in a spectacular vaulted interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants.

Fort Służew 1B Focaccia The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 13A Posypane A casual restaurant with handmade pasta made fresh on the day and a choice that includes ravioli with chorizo and shrimp, bucatini Bolognese with seasoned beef and rosemary, and a

creamy mushroom pappardelle. Then, adding to the sense of being somewhere young, fun and a little bit hip, is an edgy design featuring a wall of kitchen implements, hanging ropes and exposed concrete. In an area already rife with niche eateries aimed at the modern day Varsovian, Posypane feels like a satisfying addition. (D5) ul. Hoża 43/49 Prosciutteria Powiśle Buzzing with warmth, here an interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed brickwork, and black and white images of Italian icons sets a casually good mood that’s sustained by the owners. They’re knowledgeable, as well. If Prosciutteria feels good, then it tastes even better.

Based around cold cuts, find heavy wooden boards loaded with imported delicacies from small producers that the couple have befriended: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; pork belly fat drycured for six months; salami from Milan and Naples… There’s more, of course, but it all becomes one in this orgy of pleasure.

(F4) ul. Solec 85 Trattoria Rucola The secret at this chain enterprise?

Despite a cut & paste interior (white tables against forest-themed wallpaper) the underlying and consistent quality has you thinking you’re dining somewhere unique. Find a vast selection of pizzas and other Italian standards cooked to a level

that never falls below high. ul. Francuska 6, Krucza 6/14, Miodowa 1, Klimczaka 1 & Inwalidów 10, trattoriarucola.pl Tutti Santi With a kitchen team trained by champion pizzaiola Valerio Valle you’d be right to expect something a few steps beyond your standard high street pizza. Cooked in a woodfired Valoriani oven, the attention to detail is something else: sauce from Pelati tomatoes, Milano salami and Farina Le 5 Stagioni flour. (C3) ul. Królewska 18, tuttisanti.pl

japanese Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well.

From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul.

Piękna 54 Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Mangastyle art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget.

Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis. At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen,

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EAT! Listings share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton.

(A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl

korean The Cool Cat Proving something other than just a faddish flash in the fire, The Cool Cat has caught the zeitgeist by the horns and come to represent the hip Powiśle style; casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times.

Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on.

(F4) ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8) KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2

Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg.

The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62

latin & spanish Ceviche Bar BEST WAWA 2019 “Ethnic Dining” With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche – raw fish marinated in citrus juices and cilantro – is the default order, with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the the salmon tiraditos: served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy.

(C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl

mexican Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, gringobar.pl La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings

FOOD HALLS Hala Gwardii Set within a charmingly distressed piece of Tsarist-era brickwork, it’s not just the depth of the offer that has kept crowd figures high, but the quality as well. Standouts in this food hall are too numerous to mention, but hat tips go towards the Gorilla coffee point; the meaty treats of Beef’n’Roll; the delicious dumplings at I Love Pierogi; and the English-style spuds served by Pieczone Ziemniaki. Last but not least, no-one in Poland scoops better ice cream than the team at Ice Pot. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl Hala Koszyki Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw. Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Lunapark Put simply, the most imaginative F&B concept that Warsaw’s ever seen. Set in an abandoned outdoor leisure complex running to the flank of a busy highway, dip down a concrete stairwell to discover a wild world of food stalls, games, drinks and weirdness. For all the prowling stilt walkers and street performers, the key attraction is the Mini Market, a superb line-up of ethnic food stalls. (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, fb.com/lunaparknadwisla Elektrownia Powiśle Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com Such is the choice you could eat here for a year and still never get bored. The food hall is a beauty with highlights involving cheesesteaks from Philly’s Finest and hot wings from Kura Złota, but there’s no shortage of legitimate sit-down restaurants either.

Created by Poland’s biggest media celebrity, Kuba Wojewódzki, Niewinni Czarodzieje 2.0 offers an edgy menu (bao burgers, kimchi hot dogs, ceviche, batata fries) complimented by funky cocktails and a post-industrial interior.

Nocny Market This weekend market brings together dozens of street food vendors to form a patchwork of uber cool traders and hip little stands on a disused train platform illuminated with neon. But more than just an ultra-edgy collection of ethnic cook spots, the Nocny Market is the place to get tattooed in front of baying strangers, stock up on artisan donuts, swag some Indigo-colored Palace of Culture socks, get the whiskers waxed or simply boogie on down to side-burned DJs rescued from the Lost Years of Hipster. (A5) ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna), fb.com/nocnymarket

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heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54 MariCruz Mission Burrito Exuding the rackety, rickety feeling of a food shack, it’s an environment that’s ideal for such a simple street food staple as the “Mission burrito”. Lively and engaging, it’s exactly the required kind of backdrop when dealing with hand-held food. And what’s with the “Mission” part?

That sees the burrito given a treatment first devised in Frisco’s Mission district, with the tightly-rolled tortilla steamed rather than grilled to give it a more elastic texture that’s suited to packing it to the max with slow-cooked ingredients and boisterous homemade salsas. ul. Zgoda 3, maricruz.pl

middle eastern Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another two to pick from), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot).

And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, lecedre.pl

EAT! Listings

Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Maghreb Maghreb is a place to call home – a warm, familiar restaurant whose bijou interior falls on the good side of casual. The sense of natural goodness is emphasized by the add-ons that start landing on the table: a creamy baba ganoush with a gently smoky taste; zingy tabbouleh salad that screams with perky freshness; and an addictive mechouia dip made with roasted peppers and tomatoes. But these are a precursor for mains such as tajine dishes defined by their big-hearted richness – in this, the beef is the king, with a deep velvet sauce of honey and ginger and knuckle-sized prunes. ul. Burakowska 9, maghreb.pl

polish Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2019 “Best Chef” BEST WAWA 2019“Tasting Menu” Bez Gwiazdek While Bez Gwiazdek rejects the core principles of fine dining, don’t for one minute expect anything less than food that whispers refined sophistication.

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the standard Polski feast. Just when you thought you had worked out the nation’s cuisine, along comes Robert Trzópek to rewrite the rules. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl

Dawne Smaki The atmospheric interiors hark to bygone years, while in sunnier times the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around a few months just to see it. Specializing in traditional cuisine, the deer steak is recommended by all who try it. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49 Ferment Praski Following a chic neo-bistro format, chef Michał Kornas presents global recipes cooked with seasonal Polish produce inside a stylishly casual, modern interior.

Despite the varied scope of the menu, it is the local dishes that warrant the most praise, in particular, those directly influenced by the Praga neighborhood.

Modernized for the 21st century palette, these include ‘Prague Zeppelins’ stuffed with meat. Pl. Konesera 10A, fermentpraski.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Polana Smaków Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. Desserts are a sin and have, in the past, included a boozy donut soaked in punch and puffed to extreme with a blast of vanilla cream. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. (C5) ul. E. Plater 14, polanasmakow.pl Wuwu Concrete finishes, illuminated tubes of light, glass block walls and graphic

illustrations lend a slick smartness to this narrow, bluish space. Busy with start-up entrepreneurs and off-duty business bods, they’re here to enjoy the food that connects vodka with the forgotten classics of inter-war Warsaw. With items like duck tongues on the menu, and a shared address with the Vodka Museum, these are ambitions that are realized. Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar

seafood

L’Arc Plucked alive and kicking from a burbling fish tank, L’Arc’s lobsters and crabs are among the best in the biz. Known for their obsessive devotion to seafood, other choices in this elegant, monochrome venue include six kinds of oysters and a bouillabaisse to blow your mind. (E8) ul.

Puławska 16, larc.pl

steak houses Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which blackshirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf. Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, beefandpepper.pl BykBar Casual and affordable to all, Byk unassuming interior flatters to deceive: you’re talking about a top quality meat-centric menu that out guns many of the bigger and more high-profile players. For full warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings review, see p. TK. (F6) ul. Rozbrat 8, fb.com/ bykbar Butchery & Wine When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital – bookings are advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, butcheryandwine.pl Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, hoza.warszawa.pl Koneser Grill In line with the rebooted factory surroundings, the interior opens out to present a space that feels industrial at its core but not short on smart, chic details: smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors.

As the firewood stacked under the kitchen counter suggests, fire is central to the plot with the menu little more than a full-

blooded foray into carnivorous worlds. But away from the meaty grill dishes there’s also plenty of sophistication: delicate quail Scotch eggs, grilled Fine de Claire oysters and grilled octopus served with duck hearts. (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), konesergrill.pl Mięsny What’s not to like about a butcher, deli and bistro all rolled into one meaty treat.

Set down a leafy side street in posh Saska Kępa, this Saska Keeper presents a handful of wooden tables inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals – if you’re vegan, shoot yourself now. Typed onto a sheet of paper, the menu is an atavistic joyride that arouses primal, caveman urges: sweetbreads with chestnut puree; bone marrow with parsley salad; duck rillettes; and Red Angus steaks of every description. Nothing disappoints. ul. Walecznych 64, miesny.pl

thai Bangkok Soi In terms of interior design, find no more than some Chang beer pennants, Muangthong United football scarves, and film posters with unidentifiable titles.

Strangely, however, the basic look feels pleasingly honest. Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, find vigorously spiced red curry, Som Tam salad containing hard-to-find ingredients such as green papaya, and Tom Sap soup loaded with lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and tomato. In this whir of full-throated flavors, it’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50

vegan

Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s rankings, it scores the highest of the lot. (E5) ul. Wilcza 11 Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/leonardo.verde.restaurant

vietnamese Vietnamka Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. Infused with a gentle sense of chaos (drinks after mains, mains before starters), there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing. And boy, yes it is. Squiggled onto a crumpled sheet of paper, menu items include giant bowls of warming pho, steamed goat with lemongrass and more-ish spring rolls.

(D5) ul. Poznańska 7, fb.com/VietnamkaPoznanska

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PLAY TIME!

First Sips

Anything but the typical evening out, the opening of Zagrywki has plunged Warsaw nightlife into a completely unexpected direction – essentially a play pen for adults, head to this flashy, neon-lit spot to partake in silliness such as beer pong, crazy golf, fussball, karaoke, skeeball and just about any other daft pursuit you can think of. Yes it’s loud, yes it’s garish and yes it’s a bloody good laugh. And the really loopy thing is that neither have they opted for half-arsed drink solutions: if you’re expecting bland offers from the country’s macrobreweries then be surprised to find a small range of craft beers, frozen alcoholic slushies, capable cocktails and, of course, plenty of glow-in-the-dark shots to keep your session lively.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Zagrywki Nowy Świat 4A,

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drinks Roundup

THE GREAT OUTDOORS!

With temperatures climbing, and skirts inching upwards, we find the best spots in town for summertime sips…

Bar Studio

Pl. Defilad 1 The dehumanizing scale of the Palace of Culture is diluted in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into something of an outdoor party thanks to Bar Studio’s presence – and no worries if it rains, the epic colonnades were built as if to provide shelter from the storm.

And with no nearby neighbors to ruin the party, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares.

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LO R E TA

Bar Wieczorny

ul. Wiśniowa 46 Fixed by some of the biggest names in Polish cocktail culture, the cocktails are a serious biz here and neatly complimented by a beautiful garden set with little lights dangling from the trees. Mokotów doesn’t have the best reputation for nightlife, but in Wieczorny the area has a star of some legend.

Beirut & Kraken

ul. Poznańska 12 With the floor-to-ceiling windows thrown open, there’s an organic connection between the inside and outside of this must-visit duo. The pavement terrace is narrow as hell, but the number of people spilling into the road generates a street party vibe that’s delicious to taste. Visit midnight on Friday and you’ll see what we mean.

Cuda Na Kiju

ul. Nowy Świat 6/12 Warsaw’s first legitimate multi-tap bar fires an engaging choice of craft beers from fifteen taps within a glass prism slotted within the former Communist

C U DA N A K I J U

Party headquarters. Doing roaring trade in the summer, sit out front on deckchairs looking out towards the city’s iconic palm tree or in the back in an echoing, shaded courtyard that accentuates the immense dimensions of this hulking building.

Hala Koszyki

ul. Koszykowa 63 One word: Pimm’s! For the quintessential taste of the British summer then order up at the Central Bar inside, before migrating with the rest to the smart little square outside the main entrance. Few places in Warsaw feel quite so cosmopolitan.

Loreta

ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel) Perched on the top floor of the designforward Puro Hotel, Loreta is the cocktail den every city needs: serving inventive (and often ad-libbed) drinks poured using top-flight ingredients, the setting is eclectic and fun and roundedout by a shaded terrace bristling with plants, candles and beautiful people.

Exuding a sense of cool, the skyscrapers feel almost touching distance away.

PHOTOGRAPHS FACBOOK AND PRESS MATERIAL

SEN

T H E A LC H E M I S T

P O R T PAC Y F I K

Na Lato

ul. Rozbrat 44 The contented crowd of rich young things sum up the spirit of Solec with the ace up the sleeve proving to be a sprawling, billiard green lawn. Effecting the feel of a well-to-do garden party at dusk, things rack up a notch the darker it becomes.

Port Pacyfik

ul. Hoża 86 Run by the same people as the brilliant upmarket-dive bar crossover Pacyfik, this new summer project introduces cool food and drink stands to an inner city plot disguised with colored streamers, crates and fairy lights.

Same Krafty

Rynek Starego Miasto With the tourists zapped from existence by the coronavirus, the Old Town is back in local hands! Run by the same mob that owns two craft beer bars right up the road, enjoy a range of craft beers while soaking in the atmosphere of a cobbled historic square framed with elegant burgher houses.

Sen

ul. Wioślarska 6 Perched on the top floor of a prestigious riverfront development, scientific research has since confirmed that you’re not going to find a higher density of pretty things anywhere in Central Europe. Watching the sunset from the open rooftop terrace is one of the defining snapshots of the summer and the kind of life-affirming moment when everything feels good.

The Alchemist

Pl. Piłsudskiego 3 Norman Foster’s award-winning, donut-shaped Metropolitan Building is the setting for The Alchemist, an after-work fave with a gastro-pub menu and a pour-your-own ‘wall of beer’. Summer is when you find it at its best, even more so if you’ve booked one of the special outdoor alcoves that’s all leafy succulents and wooden decking.

The Wisła

Bulwary You don’t need us to tell you that everyone heads to the river the second

N A L AT O

the sun shines. Beginning from a distance as an amorphous din, it’s a noise that thereafter splinters into every possible identifiable direction: Ibiza-style dance tracks compete with buskers banging bongos and the general racket of thousands getting drunk. Yep, thousands. Of your many options, two Insider faves exist: the upmarket Przystań Nowa Fala moored to the river, and Barka Wynurzenie, a craft beer barge specializing in brews from Raduga.

Wozownia

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16 Founded by the same people behind the ‘ruin bar’ inside the original Hala Koszyki (back when it was a sooty stack of bullet-studded stonework – gosh, remember that!?), Wozownia brings together a good-looking crowd inside a 200-year-old carriage house whose competent cocktails and cheapy Prosecco keep it busy.

Accessed through a discreet pink-lit passage, and decked out with crates of herbs and flowering plants, the courtyard feels like a cool, private realm. warsawinsider.pl

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drink! Listings! bars & pubs Bar Pacyfik Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. (C5) ul. Hoża 61

Chłodna 25 After several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management you’d imagine C25 to be a mere shadow of what it once was. But after a slow start the new management have rescued this listing vessel and returned it to it best. On the ground floor it’s a place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, while the basement gets opened for experimental music nights and improvised orchestras.

(B3) ul. Chłodna 25, klubchlodna25.pl

Foton It’s good, seriously good. Part of that is down to a design that’s startlingly simple yet beautifully composed: think raw materials, steel frames and a vast, green fleet of tumbling plants. The F&B ain’t bad, either. Pimped up Latin American street food is the order of the day, and it all rhymes well with a drinks menu involving exotica such as chili mango margaritas. The later it gets, the better it is.

(E5) ul. Wilcza 9A, fb.com/foton.bar

indeed. Set inside a 1950s pavilion and signposted by zippy neon sign, find a cool café on ground level, and a moodier space downstairs that has the atmospheric feel of a David Lynch film. Craft beers and a smoking zone earn bonus points. ul.

Zwycięzców 49

Koko & Roy Somewhere along the line Koko & Roy have blossomed into one of the Insider’s favorite weekend nights. With its quirky-cool design, multinational crowd and funky sounds, it’s the kind of place you hit pre-club before deciding to drop the club bit altogether. And in the event that things are slow, you can rely on the owners to grab the evening by the horns and lead you down a murky rabbit hole involving off-the-cuff cocktails and offbeat conversation. Before you know it, by God, is it really nearly three? (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, Legends Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch.

Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. (C5) ul.

Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Gram Up the stairs you go to enter Gram, a small room that invokes feelings of stepping inside a circus Big Top. Order up a craft beer from the fridge before making your way around the arcade games and pinball machines squeezed inside – come on, there’s not much to beat the feeling of outscoring your date on Space Invaders and Pac-Man. Between turns, count the number of monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling... (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49 Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska Saska’s nightlife is limited to the point of being virtually non-existent, so the existence of Towarzyska is welcome

Offside Located opposite a mural of a giant goose and a gaudy statue of retro football star Kazimierz Deyna, this wreck announces

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2020

Paradox Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, soak in the vibe as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf. (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, paradox-cafe.pl

kokoandroywarsaw.com

Miejsce Chwila Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weatherworn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous.

Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz. (D5) ul. Żurawia 47

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its intention from the off with a piece of graffiti over the bar declaring that, “this is not a f***ing cocktail bar”. Despite the somewhat threatening slogan, it’s a place of amiable anarchy and warm camaraderie. The neo Berlin aesthetic sits well with a crowd composed of maverick artists, local radicals and volunteers from Poland’s first ‘democratic’ football club, AKS ZŁY. (G1) ul. Brzeska 16

Pardon To Tu Prepare for a heady swirl of innovative sounds, with the foggy atmosphere given a helping hand by an unorthodox audience that gels together into one vibrant mass. Set across two floors, find bordello colors set against a wall of glory namechecking the obscure musical heroes through which this venue channels its spirit. Adding an extra layer of depth to Warsaw’s social scene with its flexi hours, maverick music policy and air of unforced cool, PTT win brownie points for their cool craft beers and cracking focaccia. (D6) Al. Armii Ludowej 14, pardontotu.pl

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome to this hive of debauchery. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Praska For Praga at its craziest and most creative, Praska doesn’t disappoint.

Beers from Brooklyn Brewery keep the open-minded crowd lubricated with other amusements arriving in the form of regular DJs and a quite extraordinary interior: Christmas lights, giant, toy tigers, heaps of plants and other scrapyard finds dominate what rates as our weirdest discovery of 2019. (G1) ul. Brzeska 23

drink! Listings!

Stixx A slick industrial design and a location in the long shadow of the Warsaw Spire keeps this venue’s huge dimensions occupied with workers fleeing their offices once the clock strikes five. Even with the terrace roof now rolled back in for winter, there aren’t many better spots in which to enjoy the noble tradition of an after-work pint. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, stixx.pl Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray can art, broken fittings and general gloom.

Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17

W Oparach Absurdu Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, scriptwriting beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of the Bum Bum Orchestra.

Expect the unexpected. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

Worek Kości H.P. Lovecraft would love it. Decorated with replica skulls (400 reckons the owner!), this place is nothing if not a passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre. Burlesque shows are their specialty, but at other times don’t be too shocked to stumble in on meetings with private detectives, seminars by criminal profilers or gigs by bands with names such as Bipolar Order. Crazy, brilliant, etc., and ideal for a night with a difference. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10

cafés Asfalt The combination of vinyl and coffee ain’t nothing new, but at Asfalt you feel that the very heart of the concept has been completely remastered. Helping that is a choice of tunes that’s nothing if not alternative: reggae, dub, hip hop, funk, soul and a little bit of jazz. And being

owned by a Polish record label, there’s no shortage of maverick local sounds either.

Laidback and neighborly, it’s a place designed for hip locals to drop in, chill out.

You should as well. (E3) ul. Tamka 37 Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl

classic: it’s perfect for leafy Stary Bielany.

Al. Zjednoczenia 46 Closed at Press Time

Dobro & Dobro Cafe Measuring just six square meters (record attendance: 12 customers!), the tiniest cafe in Poland has grown into a cult stopoff for people looking to do something wacky. If you’re into karma, then buy a suspended coffee – order a coffee in advance for a stranger, write a personal message and then hang the cup from a string. (E8) ul. Puławska 11, fb.com/dobrocafe

Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. (D5) ul. Wilcza 42, fb.

Forum Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops.

Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. (C3) ul. Elektoralna

com/coffeedeskwilcza

11, forum.coffee

Columbus Café Proud to source their beans from the planet’s top plantations, Columbus present top brews and summer sips in a pleasingly homey, wood-clad space staring out onto Pl. Konesera. Pl. Konesera 2

Hałas Vinyl + Coffee At 15 sq/m it’s a squeeze but Hałas doesn’t half pack a punch within its small footprint. Doubling as a friendly record store, it’s the kind of place where super hip punters stock up on Winehouse and Bjork while ordering up coffee ordered from roasters such as London’s Dark Arts roastery. Find their younger sister operating in a chilled out basement on Saska Kępa’s Elsterska 10 – it’s impossible to say which we prefer. ul. Jagiellońska 30

Cophi The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping and the interiors act as a beacon to the public. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60 Czytelnia Definitely distant, but there are those that travel the city to visit – if you take coffee seriously, then you will as well. Home to the city’s best flat white (fact!), this husband and wife operation is warm in ambiance and appearance, and the drive for quality reflected by their habitual acquisition of the latest equipment.

Reading matter is plentiful, and the positive vibes and permanent sense of chill give it the air of a neighborhood

Kawiarnia Fabryczna A place to eavesdrop, catch-up on gmail and daydream the morning away, head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and bask in the natural light that pours through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. Creaky wooden floorboards, local artwork and nonobtrusive colors make it a prime perch after a wintry prowl through the parks of Powiśle. (F5) ul. Fabryczna 28/30 Kawiarnia Kawałek This neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area filling itself with gleaming glass blocks and gated compounds. Acting as a magnetic force, warsawinsider.pl

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drink! Listings the homemade nitro machine (“I just like making things,” says the owner), is a thing of legend. (B4) ul. Łucka 18, fb.com/ KawiarniaKawalek

Krem A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Opened by the same team behind Monsieur Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retro-styled mirrors. A place of hip sophistication and laid-back vibe, the menu is built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes.

(D6) ul. Śniadeckich 18

Labour Cafe Labour Café’s door crashes open onto a busy space that sets bare raw materials of steel, wood, concrete and brick against lashings of plant life and bursts of poster art. But if the front part is all about catching up with friends and soaking up the vibe over bagels and ‘ethical’ coffee, then outback is where the serious stuff happens – discover a studiously quiet dual-level working space featuring a printer, flipcharts and plentiful light. (E4) ul. Tamka 49, labour.pl

Relaks Now in their ninth year of business, any Hall of Fame (suburban or otherwise) just wouldn’t feel complete without the inclusion of this evergreen institution. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz about Relaks has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. (E9) ul.

Puławska 48

Relax Na Wilczej An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts.

(D5) ul. Wilcza 17, fb.com/RelaxNaWilczej

Roślina Though not quite in the same abundance as some of those on this shortlist, plants constitute a major part of the design, a point underlined by the venue’s very name (you’ve guessed right, it means ‘plant’).

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The specialty coffees and bountiful vegan options go well with an attractively artsy low-budget look featuring bare concrete and droopy plans hanging from the pipes.

A true cult café that feels essential to the function of Bielany! ul. Schroegera 80 Same Fusy Suffused in a soft candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming, vaulted brick room suspended in another time. Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood and Hobbit-esque atmosphere. With the first chill winds of autumn blowing through the cobbled streets of Old Town, Same Fusy acts as a warm refuge in which to shelter. ul. Nowomiejska 10

Stor A giant presence on the coffee map of Warsaw, Stor is the ultimate feelgood café: a place of slanting shadows and streaming sunlight, the irresistible ambience is matched only by peerless coffee prepared by expert baristas. (E3) ul. Tamka 33, fb.com/storcafe

U Krawca Blue-collar Grochów isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, but this café has done much to swing the area’s rep into credit. Creaky floorboards and references to the address’s former function as a tailor’s shop lend a warmth that’s particularly pronounced once the overhead draftsman’s lamps are switched on. Homemade cakes, hipster colas and coffee sourced from the likes of Gesha keep it packed with a friendly crowd of local aficionados.

(D1) ul. Siennicka 3

Yestersen Not content with ruling the domestic scene where online vintage furnishings are concerned, Yestersen have gone one better and opened a bricks-and-mortar venture – complete with coffee while you browse! More in line with wading into an aesthetic wave of bliss, on stepping inside visitors are confronted by a sea of beautiful objects: from iconic wall units by Volák to retro tables by Halabali. On the coffee front, find specialty brews supplied

by Cophi and no shortage of pretty little cakes and tarts courtesy of Muus. (C6) ul.

Lekarska 5, fb.com/yestersen.warsaw

cocktails Aura The mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design: dark, mysterious and intriguing, the overriding sentiment extends to the drinks, many of which incorporate Aura’s exhaustive collection of bourbons. Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy dose of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that strays into the head turning category. Setting foot inside this secretive den of iniquity, you understand the fuss. ul. Hoża 27 Back Room Plush fabrics, muted lighting, intuitive service, a well-scrubbed crowd, a flickering fireplace and shelves displaying drinks as if they were trophies: the ambiance is nailed down to such an extent that those who use this speakeasy for pre-club drinks often find themselves skipping the club bit altogether. And why bother with anywhere else when you have masterpiece cocktails that are immaculate, imaginative and mixed with practiced expertise. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/BackRoomWarsaw

Ceviche Bar Though primarily celebrated for their Latin American menu, the ‘bar’ part of the name isn’t there for window dressing.

The modern design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene. Cocktail-wise, order Warsaw’s best Pisco Sour or explore a ‘Nikkei’ card that blends Peruvian and Japanese ingredients to present truly unique tastes. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39 The Cuba Libre Rum & Cigar House Envelope yourself in luxury at Cuba Libre, a no expense spared venture aimed at

drink! Listings those who deal with nothing but the best.

Gathering the bright and the beautiful inside sophisticated tobacco-colored interiors, the warming ambiance is primed for an evening of cigars and conversation over pedigree-style cocktails and limited edition rums. (D5) ul. Poznańska

that’s famed around the country for the creativity of its bartenders. Next door, visit their sister bar, Kiti. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (E5)

for the intriguing surrounds: walls of corrugated iron and peeling plaster are coordinated with crossed machetes, shrill neon and decorative tiles. The final effect brings to mind a deadly cool recreation of a drug baron’s jailhouse cell. (D5) ul.

ul. Krucza 6/14

Piękna 54

Koneser Bar 3/4 Perched on the top of the Polish Vodka Museum this bar offers more than just stonking views of the Praga district from their sunny terrace: of note are beautiful vodka-based cocktails prepared in an atmospheric interior molded from carefully restored raw materials. Pl. Konesera 1

Long Bar Posh doesn’t begin to cover it. Clad in smooth marble, natural oak, eye-catching art and soft tan leather, Long Bar imparts a sense of luxury that feels elegantly timeless yet never excessive nor ostentatious. This being part of the venerable Raffles chain, you’d be missing the mark if you ordered anything but their signature Slings – make a night of it by roaring through their ten different versions of this trademark drink. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Hotel)

37, thecubalibre.pl

Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise.

Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Aimed at a younger crowd largely in their 20s, it’s a good-humored, lively cocktail bar

La Sirena Though primarily known as the best Mexican restaurant in the country, the cocktails are of such a standard that it’s become impossible to ignore La Sirena’s credentials as an exceptional bar as well.

Fixed using a range of premium tequilas, the innovative tastes feel all the better

Mr. Oh A semi-secret world for those In The Know, find Mr. Oh in one of the Harry

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drink! Listings Potter towers that prop up Poniatowski Bridge. Dark, decadent and redolent of an after-hours members club, this latest concept from Enio Chłapowski-Myjak (formerly of 6 Cocktails) is firmly on its way to becoming the coolest address in town. Late nights, Asian-themed cocktails and an A-list crowd await: full report soon! (F4) Al. 3 Maja / ul. Kruczkowskiego,

ranges from downright delicious to the kind of club creatures that stop you dead in your tracks. As for the weekend parties, these are an exercise in excess with all kinds of lunacy breaking out all around: trapeze artists, sword swallowers, burlesque dancers and more. Leaving, it’s with the senses spinning in a swirl of disbelief. (G1) Pl. Konesera 4, fb.com/

mr-oh.com

syrenispiew

VENTS

Warmut Set in the Commie era No Man’s Land between Zbawiciela and Konstytucji, it’s become one of the hottest nights in town. This vermouth-inspired cocktail bar features classic and house creations, and a spectacular design involving street art, greenery and mirrored walls. But the piece de resistance? Those are the scale models of local landmarks that hang from the ceiling. Instagram them now before everyone else does. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska

HOOTS

45/49

Podwale Bar & Books Occupying the kind of charismatic gatehouse you’d read about in T Dickens, position yourself in front of R C T M theP upstairs fireplace for a celebratory C and W a glass of something tall and cigar ≈ W C lovely: the cocktails are in a class of ≈ C own Cand specifically customized their ≈ T season. Spooling, silent Bond for the ≈ P regular E films, burlesque shows and ≈ L S random decorative monkey figures add an ‘element of weird’. (D2) P unexpected B B HE MOST

EFRESHINGLY LACES

IVILIZED

EETTM

O

IGARS &

INE &

HISKY

HAMPAGNE

OCKTAILS &

USINE

ASTINGS

RIVATE

OCATION

ODWALE

AR AND

OOKS

Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw

ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Tel.: +48 225.599.199

Reginabar Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the V O L a P i n Y regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with www.barandbooks.pl names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/ n

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(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

craft beer Chmielarnia Musty, muggy, murky. Head into the basement depths of the fishing institute to discover Chmielarnia, a subterranean tap bar where artisan beers rule the roost: check the ‘glass tomb’ filled with mainstream macro lagers. The bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, and seems especially popular with geeks and know-it-alls discussing their beer’s ‘finish’ and ‘nose’. (B4) ul. Twarda 42

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Jabeerwocky Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer.

Kufle i Kapsle Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25

Maryensztadt Craft Beer

ul. Wierzbowa 11

Syreni Śpiew Koneser Almost mad in the scale of its vision, the multi-floor set up is a big, sexy mash of steel stairs, plush sofas and industrial ephemera. Cocktails are flawless and enjoyed by a glam, pussycat crowd that

Drugie Dno The natural start (or finish) point of any Nowogrodzka pub crawl, head to The Double D for a space that conjures to mind a disused power station: sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the neo-industrial look is ramped up with the liberal use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Sixteen taps to drink through, many of them offering extreme drinking solutions from Europe’s most radical breweries. Looks great, tastes great, a factor that ensure a male-to-female ratio that feels roughly equal. Equally interested, is their Ochota location on leafy Tarczyńska 5/9. (D5) ul.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

12.08.15 20:49

The Roots Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is this haunt, its walls are graced by a vast collection of cocktail memorabilia: antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention an original signed copy of the world’s first cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). (C2)

the side passage), czesc.waw.pl

Nowogrodzka 4

Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city.

rague

Reginakoszykowa1

plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like Artezan and Pinta. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere makes it ideal for an after-work chillout pint. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through

Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on the go. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect

You need not go far to escape the baying mob of tourists that stampede through the Rynek. Just round the corner, Maryensztadt occupies a charming cobbled corner of the city’s Old Town that feels serene and picturesque. It isn’t just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from

Drink! Listings small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 11

location lends a feeling of stepping into the unknown. Decorated with the requisite portraits of trumpet tooting legends, the debonair, moody confines match well with the sounds at hand. (D6)

Same Krafty Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Too busy? Head five meters opposite to Same Krafty Vis-à-vis.

You will find tourists, but locals are often the majority, a telling indicator that says much for their approval rating. (D1) ul.

ul. Noakowskiego 16

Nowomiejska 10

for gentlemen Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

1 Sun Salon For something naughty but nice 1 Sun Salon offers body-to-body tantric massage with just about the happiest ending you could possibly wish for. Staffed with flighty college girls, and equally welcoming to stag groups as they are business travelers, head here to wallow in plush VIP rooms while every whim and fancy is satisfied and served. ul. Marszałkowska 24/26, 1sun.pl

Hydrozagadka / Chmury Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider this pair of neighboring venues as the definition of unforced cool. Known for their alternative music scene, the lowceilings and their tight, crowded confines generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the ambiance is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out – you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22 Klub Pogłos Scuzzy and a bit seamy, this alt. performance venue gives Warsaw an interesting, if not utterly random direction with an events schedule that involves spoken word performances, vegan BBQs, old skool rave nights and hardcore gigs from bands with names like Cancer Bats and Moscow Death Brigade. ul.

Burakowska 12, fb.com/klubpoglos

wine bars

Ale Wino!

Summers here are magical, with drinkers congregating on a courtyard deck shielded from the sun by a slanted white sail; but winters aren’t too shabby either – lose yourself within a warren of warmly-lit rooms that feel snug, intimate and even a little rustic. The choice of 250 plus wines is supported by some of the best cooking in the city. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

Bubbles, but there’s even more to love. Pl. Piłsudskiego 9

Dyletanci The archetypal all-rounder, Dyletanci has it all: an approachable bistro style; adventurous cooking; and a wine list with no discernible Achilles Heel. Burgundy is a particular strength, as too are Polish wines (including those from the proprietor’s own vineyard, the upcoming Dom Bliskowice). (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44,dyletanci.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej Go on, count them: hanging tantalizingly over the bar are 1,116 glasses, a testament to Kieliszki’s promise to serve all the wines they have (and there’s a motherlode to pick from) by the glass.

Enjoy them on a cobbled street that’s been magnificently restored to its pre-war prime. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Mielżyński Wine Bar Tangled in vines and creeping ivy, this brick warehouse comes into its element each summer when drinkers pile outside to drink amid rustling trees and pristine lawns. Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. A flagbearer when it comes to consistency and quality, this post-industrial space remains a default favorite of the Warsaw public. (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12), mielzynski.pl

Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. (D4) ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl

live music 12 on 14 For a country with such a noble jazz tradition the paucity of dedicated clubs in the capital feels like an aberration.

Doing a sterling job of filling that void are 12 on 14, a venue whose courtyard

Bubbles Despite sounding like a 1980s Essex nightclub, find this bistro locked inside an eternal state of romance. A charismatic assembly of rickety crates, Tolix chairs and deep forest greens, this compact space is ripe for dating. Order a glass of bubbles before plunging into a menu inspired by the slow food philosophy.

Damn right there’s a lot to like at

Rusiko Wine Bar The perfect foil for the Rusiko restaurant next door, this high-ceilinged, sapphirecolored haunt showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior decked out with elaborate rugs horded by the owner. Having first enjoyed the food opposite, finish the night in this genial, cozy bar. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22 warsawinsider.pl

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Benefit from drinking ready to drink teas brewed by tea masters!

All bottles and cans are made from recycled materials.

Order online today: SHOP.SOTINATURAL.COM with promo code: SUMMER

SOMETHING FISHY PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

Who cares that the water has run dry? Though the city’s ongoing battle against Covid-19 has seen the plugged pulled on one of the city’s primary summer attractions, the world class multimedia fountain park, one artist has come up with a wacky solution to add life to the behemoth installation. Best-known for his blue angel statues scattered around the Praga district, Marek Sulek has hit the news again, this time by suspending dozens of colorful plastic fish above the empty fountains. Supposedly symbolic of rebirth, wisdom, freedom and immortality, the bizarre project has further also been accompanied by a soundtrack featuring ocean sounds and recorded poetry recitals. This, though, is not the first time Sulek has flirted with the surreal. Previously, the acclaimed artist has cast a giant paper boat down the Wisła, painted trees pink and filled the center’s Rondo de Gaulle’a with red-painted boulders.

Multimedia Fountain Park Skwer 1 Dywizji Pancernej WP, estrada.com.pl

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THE ESSENTIALS...

CHOPIN MUSEUM

T H E R O YA L C A S T L E

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of the ‘phoenix city’ that ‘survived its own death’.

The Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto, while the Museum of Warsaw offers a peerless peek into the complexities of Warsaw’s story: the view of the Old Town Square from the top is worth the admission alone. Close by, check out the city that once was at Park Miniatur, a beautiful exhibition displaying intricate scale models of the city’s pre-war architectural glories. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, take a walk around the immaculate Łazienki Park or, further out, visit Wilanów Palace: frequently nicknamed ‘the Polish Versailles’, the landscaped gardens are simply glorious. Finally, tap into the very essence of the Polish soul by visiting the Vodka Museum on the right side of town.

WWII

Memories of WWII still cast a long shadow over the town. Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country. Lesser known, the Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’ documents the destruction (and subsequent reconstruction) of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history – in an added boon, the latter is an architectural

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gem. To get up close and personal to military hardware, visit the Polish Army Museum. Having marked the 70th anniversary of both the Nazi and Soviet aggression just last year, visiting all feels particularly relevant.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz monument marking the spot where trains departed for the gas chambers of Treblinka (itself worthy of a day trip, if only to peruse the small museum and wander the forlorn outdoor memorial). The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin museum covers all aspects of this nation’s Jewish history. More old school in style, the Jewish Historical Institute often hosts thought provoking exhibitions linked to the wartime suffering of the Jewish population.

COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is essential: the basements (protected from rodents by a team of feline guardians) are intriguing and the top-floor viewing terrace unimpeachable. Explore the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then head across town to check the the Czar PRL Museum (czarprl.pl). A warm and eccentric look at daily life under Communism, this fantastic museum is firmly enshrined as one of Warsaw’s quirkiest attractions.

MODERN WARSAW

Wonder amid romping children and whirring machines inside the Copernicus Science Centre and after, visit the university library to explore the stunning, cosmic rooftop garden.

The Museum of Modern Art is a short walk away whilst across the water, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and thrills both stadium geeks and football fans alike.

In the Old Town area, the Museum of Illusions promises a surrealistic dose of fun for all ages.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages – reserve time for their brilliantly retro Gallery of Polish Design. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that excite non-conformists. And keep your eyes peeled outside: some of the city’s best art is found on its walls – the Praga district is especially celebrated for its large format wall murals.

PEOPLE

The shadow of Chopin, the city’s favorite son, looms large across Warsaw: the museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope and the nearby Royal Route often tinkles to the sound of Chopin-inspired interactive, musical benches. Onto other local greats and the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a sterling job of remembering the world’s most famous female scientist.

Every Mon at 19:30, Pl. Konesera

Every Weds at 19:00, Pl. Konesera

Open Air Cinema On Art

DIY workshops for children and adults in the Przerób–My Creative Zone

Loving Vincent

03.08.2020

Rio, I Love You

10.08.2020

Before Midnight

17.08.2020

Broken Embraces

24.08.2020

Pavarotti

31.08.2020

Holiday lanterns *

04.08.2020

Forests in a jar

11.08.2020

Balloons *

18.08.2020

Wreathes from old jeans

25.08.2020 * In Polish

Every Sat at 11:00, Pl. Konesera Every Weds at 19:00, Pl. Konesera

Garage Sales

Open Air Cinema Films On A Plate

Every Sat between 11 and 6 you have the chance to uncover something extraordinary at our weekly

“Knife Skills”

garage sale: head to the stalls and breathe new life

05.08.2020

into forgotten objects!

“All Natural: Women Who Make Organic Wine”

12.08.2020

“The Turkish Way”

19.08.2020

“Chef's Diaries: Scotland”

26.08.2020

Every Thurs at 17:30, Pl. Konesera

Open Air Theater From Och-Teatr & Teatr Polonia

Daily at Pl. Konesera

“Lament”

13.08.2020

Theater & Triki Tashka Creative Zone

“2 000 000 kroków”

20.08.2020

“Flamenco namiętnie”

27.08.2020

Art booth

Daily 12:00 – 18:00

Linden blocks

Daily 12:00 – 19:00

Katarynka

15.08.2020

Tashka Tent Workshop

3, 4, 10, 11.08.2020

Small stage / acting workshop

5, 6, 12, 13, 19, 20.08.2020

Singer Festival for Kids

30.08.2020

patronat cyklu

Every Tues at 18:00, Pl. Konesera

Every Sat at noon, Pl. Konesera

Special Guests At Dom ze Sztuką

Meetings At The Grill

Elżbieta Kosim – Kilimanjaro Association

04.08.2020

Head to the Koneser Grill for

Andrzej Supron (sport icon)

11.08.2020

free grilling tips, cooking demos,

Rafał Tarnarzewski (Design Incubator)

18.08.2020

workshops and wine pairings. For

Surprise meeting!

25.08.2020

more info, see: koneser.eu (except Aug 1st)

Every Sun at 10:00, Butelkownia

Daily from noon, Pl. Konesera

Zoo Zone

Adventure Warsaw Zone

Swing by each Sunday for animal photographs, dog training classes, educational workshops and games based

Adventure Warsaw invite you to partake in courtyard games, weekend tournaments and city-related games. Visit also for sightseeing trips and a mini-exhibition from the Museum of Life

on natural science!

Under Communism.

/Centrum Praskie Koneser /CentrumPraskieKoneser

Every Sat at 22:00, Syreni Śpiew

Silent Disco Groove on down for the best night in town!

Program is subject to change. *coming soon.

/centrum_praskie_koneser

Every Fri at 19:00, Pl. Konesera

Chopin Recitals

/koneser.eu

Kirył Keduk

04.08.2020

Łukasz Chrzęszczyk

14.08.2020

Julia Łozowska

21.08.2020

Andrzej Wierciński

28.08.2020

PRAGA / PARKING FROM UL. BIAŁASTOCKA / ENTRY FROM UL. ZĄBKOWSKA & BIAŁOSTOCKA 24/7, FIRST HOUR FREE

THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!

Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss…

N AT I O N A L M U S E U M Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos.

Frankly, it’s stunning. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl T H E WA R SAW R I S I N G M U S E U M When it comes to the definitive story of the insurgency, the Warsaw Rising Museum leaves no stone unturned. If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and rummage through a room mocked-up to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, its small size belies its utter magic. ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

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FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

M U S E U M O F WA R SAW

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space.

The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming.

Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital and beyond. Beautiful in every respect, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul.

Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul.

Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

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LEARNING preschools American School of Warsaw Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@aswarsaw.

British Primary School of Wilanow A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9.

Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old).

Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years

admissions are international students.

The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul.

Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their

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The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school

IN

A Place For Alternative Art & Education Triki TASHKA, a meeting place, creative workshop and art space has opened in Centrum Praskie Koneser. Founded by the TASHKA children’s book publishing house, it seeks to inspire a deeper understanding of cultural education.

Under their watch, TASHKA ensure that behind the door of Triki TASHKA every visitor – regardless of their age – will find something that will interest and stimulate them. “The idea arose from my vision of a perfect home,” say Katarzyna Kucharska, the founder of TASHKA. “I wanted to gather everything that made the publishing house special under one roof.”

“At Triki TASHKA,” she continues, “we offer a unique atmosphere of freedom and an openness that can’t be found elsewhere. Further to the cultural offer, we’ve also prepared a thorough culinary spread featuring proven suppliers of bio coffee, teas, delicious chocolate, healthy smoothies, craft bakeries and traditional pastries.”

Going hand-in-hand with this all find literature from top authors, paintings, poster art, sculpture, unique porcelain, honeys from the Kłodzko Valley, handmade toys and clothes and much, much more.

Triki TASHKA also offers a wealth of sensations, the chance to learn new skills, interesting experiences, unusual meetings and a platform to exchange opinions and thoughts. Here you’ll discover hidden talents and develop your passions whilst unearthing new ones through your contact with art, as well as via participation in workshops led by specialists in the fields of architecture, painting, literature, comic books, jewelry, scriptwriting, drama, acting and art puppetry.

Triki TASHKA also invites guests to enjoy a series of artistic happenings, live performances, concerts and meetings with authors – and should you wish, we even offer the opportunity to organized a birthday party here! Opened to coincide with the tenth anniversary of the TASHKA publishing house, as well as the premier of plenty of new titles, Triki TASHKA promises to teach visitors a host of new tricks!

Triki TASHKA , Plac Konesera 3, Warsaw, Butelkownia Building, tel. 602-751-718. tashka@tashka.pl, www.trikitashka.pl

PRAGA / ENTER FROM BIAŁOSTOCKA /

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Centrum Praskie Koneser is one of most magnetic places in Warsaw. Offering a range of top restaurants and bars, unique museums and stores as well as a busy program of fairs, festivals, exhibitions and assorted events, the historic backdrop provided by the beautifully restored 19th century buildings that once comprised the onsite vodka factory lend it a character that brims with positive energy. koneser.eu

follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Montessori Stepping Stones An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker

pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

schools American School of Warsaw With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed.

They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or

The pursuit

of excellence We promise to support your child to love learning and achieve more than they ever thought possible.

www.thebritishschool.pl

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Please email admissions@thebritishschool.pl or call (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 to arrange a tour

BROUGHT TO YOU BY

What does epiXpert actually do?

We were founded with the mission to support organizations in their return to operations and to help them continue operating safely during the COVID19 pandemic.

Our efforts are also focused on schools which are the cornerstone of every country’s economy and social order: we’re here to help schools provide classroom learning in a safe environment.

How was the idea born?

Basically, from the discussions we had with business owners, managers, school administrators and parents.

The founders of epiXpert are all business owners and parents, and we understand and empathize with all the challenges that schools had to go through in the first half of 2020. Most of our staff have medical backgrounds as well, so we are also able to sift through publicly available information with a medical lens to offer only evidence-based solutions.

PREPARING FOR THE NEW NORMAL

Specializing in epidemic risk management, Jarek Oleszczuk MD PhD of epiXpert talks about the firm and its mission…

Who are your clients?

Our clients span various industries from manufacturing, through to HoReCa and law firms. We have also been closely working with two international schools – the American School of Warsaw and the British Primary School of Wilanów. For the American School of Warsaw, we have developed a comprehensive 14-point plan to ensure the safe reopening of the school in August.

Where schools are involved, what are your aims?

We offer tailor-made consulting and support in developing practices and assessing components for a multi-layered approach to safe school reopenings. In this we have three goals in mind: i) prevent the virus from entering the school; ii) ensure that in case the virus does enter that it is contained; and iii) to keep the educational and program delivery model as unchanged as possible.

What solutions do you offer for this?

We are the only company in Poland offering a protocol which essentially eliminates the risk of the virus entering the school. Our approach is based on weekly swab testing (don’t worry – it’s a nasal swab test!) using sample pooling methodology, supplemented by a daily risk assessment algorithm in a mobile application.

The methodology is resource-light and costs a fraction of individual RT-PCR tests. Our approach has been validated by epidemiologists from Harvard University and will likely become gold standard. epiXpert ul. Moniuszki 1A, epixpert.pl

warsawinsider.pl

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an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact: admissions@aswarsaw. org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

British Primary School of Wilanow A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9.

and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul.

Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education.

The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish.

French is taught as a third language.

Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

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create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French.

Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul.

Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

Warsaw Montessori School A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided.

Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul.

Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095

Klub Dialogu Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. ul. Ordynacka 13/5,

835, wmf.edu.pl

klubdialogu.pl

Willy Brandt Schule Warschau One of the city’s best renowned schools offers a kindergarten as well as primary and secondary education conducted to a German curriculum. Św. Urszuli

books

Ledóchowskiej 3, wbs.pl

Fundacja Bęc Zmiana A small curiosity shop selling trendy trinkets and a fair amount of art and architecture books with an accent on modern Warsaw. ul. Mokotowska 65/7,

Warsaw Montessori Middle School Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A

adult learning

beczmiana.pl

Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com.

Księgarnia Bullerbyn A supremely cheerful bookstore peddling everything from pop-up books and fairytales to history and legends. The ace up their sleeve is a sizeable selection of English-language literature: and that includes The Gruffalo! ul. Chmielna 10,

(grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

cupofpolish.com

bullerbyn.com.pl

Warsaw Montessori High School Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The

Frog Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. ul.

Moda Na Czytanie Some brilliant Warsaw-focused coffee table books, as well a half-decent collection of Englishlanguage books that range from classics to contemporary fiction. ul.

Mazowiecka 12/24, frog.org.pl

Bracka 25

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

's ton B g n i d LU Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole warsawinsider.pl

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spas & salons

names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul. Mokotowska 26, lui-store.com

Creamy Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia Pinchinat-Witucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum components, sulphates or silicones. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw), creamy.pl

Fifth Avenue Originating in Dublin, Fifth Avenue specialize in luxurious facials, waxing, massages and treatments for the hands and feet. Using a range of OPI varnishes and creams specially created for them in Germany, they’ve become synonymous with top-class treatments. ul. Mokotowska 49, fifthavenuewarszawa.pl

fashion Balthazar An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728. Al. Rzeczypospolitej 18/68, balthazar.pl

Just Paul Exuding confident femininity, this energetic brand is characterized by its light and unobtrusive elegance and sense of effortless nonchalance. Founded in 2012 by designers Justyna and Paula, Just Paul seeks to address the needs of the modern woman with its line in chic but casual clothing and more dazzly evening wear. ul. Mokotowska 61, justpaul.pl Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Rixo London, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Pan Tu Nie Stal Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit.

Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com

malls & department stores Arkadia Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

Designer Outlet Warszawa Just 30-minutes from central Warsaw,

and within a building influenced by Poland’s baroque period, discover over 100 brands offered at all year discounts of 30-70%. Brands include Boss, Hilfiger, Liu Jo, Furla, Michael Kors and many more. ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl

Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow. com.pl

Galeria Północna Feature inc. Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons number a rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul.

Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl Vitkac Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Rick Owens.

And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Vitkac, ul.

Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus a Multikino cinema inside an awardwinning piece of architecture. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

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REMEMBERING THE RISING With the 76th anniversary of the outbreak of the Warsaw Uprising falling at the start of the month, the Insider looks back on the city’s darkest hour…

A

s has now become customary, Warsaw will grind to a standstill at 5 p.m. on August 1st as its habitants collectively pause to pay tribute to the heroes of the Warsaw Uprising; with the shadow of covid-19 still bearing an influence over the size of mass gatherings, it is to be expected that services and events shall take place on a more modest scale, however, even with this in mind it is to be anticipated that large numbers of flarewielding patriots will, as always, descend on Rondo Dmowskiego for what is commonly known as W-Hour: the moment that the rising first broke out.

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Viewed as a melting pot of decadence, a hotbed of dissent, a cradle of European Jewry and a symbol of Polish independence, no other city invited as much disdain from the Nazis as Warsaw.

From the very outset, the occupation set a new benchmark in tyranny with Polish freedom brutally suppressed.

Denied the most basic rights, the Poles responded by forming Europe’s largest underground movement. Commonly believed to number around 400,000 members, the Home Army (AK) was the largest of these illicit organizations. Taking part in numerous acts of sabotage, this clandestine military movement hit global headlines when, on August 1st, 1944, they launched their biggest operation to date: the Warsaw Uprising.

Aiming to liberate the town in time for the imminent Soviet arrival, their cause was boosted by promises of Allied aid as well as the knowledge that German units had already began withdrawing from the city. Incensed by this act of Polish insolence, the Nazis reacted with savage fury and what the Poles had hoped would be a swift campaign descended into a 63-day bloodbath that claimed 250,000 lives. With all hope exhausted, Warsaw’s eventual capitulation was met with orders for the population to be exiled and the city flattened.

Viewed as Warsaw’s (and arguably Poland’s) defining moment, the story of the insurgency is told in brilliant detail at the Warsaw Rising Museum, a visit to which feels almost mandatory every August.

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