Warsaw Insider May 2020 #285

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The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

MAY 2020

Into The Light 285

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05/2020

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WARSAW’S TOP NEONS EXPOSED

GURU REDEFINES

MODERN INDIAN CUISINE

Our focus from the start has been to create modern Indian dishes and drinks, served in a relaxed space. We combine local seasonal ingredients with the authentic flavors, aromas and spices of India and the orient.

Widok 8, Warszawa www.gururestauracja.pl facebook.com/gururestauracja TEL. 22 857 0604

editorial

FEATURES

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

2 Viral Back Story Quarantine art 4 City Murals Good Looking Studio 6 History Warsaw’s moving landmarks!

10 Go Green!

Parks of Warsaw 14 Neon!

Warsaw city high lights 22 Photography

Polska Britannica

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Aleksandra Seweryn aseweryn@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

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MAY 2020

H

as it got any easier? That’s a tough question to ponder. Certainly, however, if the initial news of the lockdown left Poles in a state of dazed concussion, then the month that followed saw a regrouping of sorts. Then again, you’d probably expect that from a nation such as this – shaped (quite literally) by history’s cruel hand, privations are nothing new to either the country or its people. With that in mind, perhaps no European nation has been better psychologically adjusted to face the tough times of now. The show must go on.

This new sense of focus has manifested itself across the board, not least in the industries that immediately concern us at the Insider’s secret bunker: food, drink, culture and the arts – all those things loosely gathered under the title of ‘lifestyle’. A skeleton issue this might be, but the contents within reflect a sector that’s rising to the challenge: eateries are rallying, the breweries are brewing, the arts scene is thriving and the museums are… musing? Hmm, maybe forget that last bit but not the fundamental point: life has not ended, in fact quite the reverse. I hope, that with this issue in hand (or more likely on screen), a city that looks closed for business feels that little bit more open. Stay healthy, be good, keep positive – see you next time.

EAT!

27 First Bite:

Edamame 28 Roundup

delicatessens 29 Review:

Ale Wino 30 Roundup:

pizza heroes!

30 Roundup:

ice cream & desserts

DRINK! 45 First Sips:

Mr. Oh 46 Guide:

house party essentials 48 Roundup:

cafes

DISCOVER 53 Culture: PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2020 Warsaw Insider.

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl on the cover Offering a chink of light during these dark times, we explore the stories behind Warsaw’s best neons.

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Polona.pl 54 Culture:

online museums 74 Travel:

Dwór Dawidy 62 Map 64 Looking Back: May Day warsawinsider.pl

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VIRAL BACKSTORY

had elements of interaction, dialogue and tension. I wanted people to see themselves in these images.

The public went bananas when these images debuted. Were you surprised by all of the feedback?

Absolutely – and you know what, I still don’t really understand why this series was so successful!

The masterpieces you chose span a plethora of ages. As a time traveler, to which period would you travel back to!

I’m of the opinion that the ‘old days’ weren’t better, but if I had to choose I would travel to as close to the present day as possible – well, aside from the period in the Edward Hopper painting.

I’d say 1942 was quite an unattractive moment in time!

You’ve mentioned in previous interviews that it was Hopper painting Nighthawks that was your favorite in this series. In an imaginary world, how the hell would you explain to him what you’ve done?

Without knowing the path that media, art and society have taken in the last 80-years it would definitely be tricky, so I’d begin by explaining the concept of memes and social media as well as the current pandemic situation.

Corona Lisa

Altering classic masterpieces to feature cops writing out fines for breaking government restrictions, Jarek Kubicki’s 32nd Day of Quarantine series became one of the big viral hits of the month just gone. Now, the artist speaks!

WI: Define your artistic style...

JK: Dark surrealism would probably be the most accurate description, but there’s also elements of hyper-realism or abstract expressionism as well.

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How did you pick which paintings to use in your 32nd Day of Quarantine series?

Not easy! I looked through hundreds of paintings but chose the ones I felt

Let’s face it, there is a dark element to your art. Is that a reflection of your own personality?

It’s rather a matter of my own sensitivities. I adhere to the principle that good art is sad art because it touches the soul the most. Furthermore, art should move people and give them a kick.

I’m not a gloomy person, although of course I’m no stranger to melancholy.

Describe your work space at home ...

I have three monitors in front of me, sometimes four. One of them is a large, 27-inch graphic tablet. Thanks to its size, painting on it is like using a real canvas.

IMAGES COURTESY OF THE ARTIST

And his reaction?

Hopefully he’d laugh at the end, pat me on the shoulder and say, “oh, then that’s cool”.

This sounds like The Minority Report!

What role does technology play in art?

Artists have always looked ahead and very often used modern technology that was not yet widely known: even Vermeer in the 17th century used camera obscura. Technology can be utilized to make a big impact on the viewer and draw him inside the world created by the artist.

Tell us a secret about digital art…

I create art using both traditional and digital techniques, and my biggest thrill is combining these methods. There are definitely more similarities between them than it may seem: after all, art comes from the head, not the hand.

Change of subject! Music whilst you work – yes or no?

I couldn’t live without music! While working it’s usually ambient, classical or progressive rock in the background, but I’m also prone to a bit of metal, Gothic, triphop and retro synth. What I listen to while working though depends on my mood rather than the image’s subject.

Has this period of quarantine been good for art?

Every unique situation that affects the whole of society provides a challenge for art. At such times, people need something that can channel their emotions. For artists themselves, such rapid changes to everyday reality can provide a large dose of inspiration.

What have you learned about yourself under quarantine?

I’ve not noticed a huge change in my general behavior so it appears that my personality is quite well suited to it!

Hermetically sealed from the world, what can’t you live without!

The internet! It’s my eyes, ears, transmitter and receiver. I could just about manage without it I hope, but life would be sadder and more boring!

Does Warsaw inspire you?

I’ve been interested in history since just about forever, so for sure this city’s past has influenced me. For me the city

is the view from my window and the energy I draw from it.

Sounds like a magical window! What do you see from it…

It’s almost a Parisian scene: all I see are the roofs of old tenements – there’s not a single high-rise in my sight.

What’s your dream project?

Surely, like any other socially engaged artist, I dream of doing something that can act as a catalyst for positive change and make the world a better place.

For more on Jarek and his work, see: kubicki.info warsawinsider.pl

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CITY MURALS

Backs Against The Wall

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE PAGE COURTESY OF GSL

Credited with reviving the art of the hand-painted ad, Good Looking Studio have transformed Poland’s cities with their supersized murals. Co-founder Karol Szufladowicz discusses the impact of the Covid-19 crisis on the firm, as well as the firm’s non-commercial work during these challenging times…

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WI: How has the pandemic effected your operations?

KS: Let’s face it, almost the whole world has come to a stop so it’s not looking too colorful. From the ten projects we had planned for April, we executed two. On the plus side, we were always careful to build a financial pillow in case of bad times, and we’re glad to have done so because those bad times have now arrived. It’s hard to see light at the end of tunnel right now, but thanks to this financial pillow we can at least wait one or two months longer than other companies of our size before making any final decisions.

What’s been your strategy so far?

We don’t want to lose our team and melt the work we’ve accomplished over the last eleven years so although we’re trying to minimize our costs we haven’t lost anyone so far. We also need to be ready to go back to work and get back to normal as soon as we are allowed. That said, we realize that ‘the new normal’ will be different, so we’re looking into making changes to our structure and diversifying into other areas and offering additional things. For sure the industry will change so we need to plan for different scenarios – if you don’t plan for those scenarios, you’ll be left behind.

How has the team responded?

We’ve got a great team who understand the situation – we’ve taken some

hard decisions and introduced some tough measures but not one person has complained. It’s our goal to go through this with the entire team and to resume work without anyone losing their job. We don’t know if we can achieve that, but we want to at least try. They’re great people, and it’s brilliant to see that they’re not looking out for themselves; we’re in this together.

How has the scope of your day-to-day work changed?

On the management side we’re working more than ever because everything is changing so fast: restrictions, client demand, government guidelines – these are changing daily.

It’s not unlike looking after a family.

Right now though, the main change has been we’re no longer trying to maximize our earnings, rather we’re trying to minimize our losses.

You’ve embarked on numerous social, non-commercial projects…

We can’t sit around doing nothing or else our blood would freeze! As such, we’ve painted the walls of a hospital treating coronavirus patients as well as a mural on Tamka voicing support for healthcare workers. Most recently, we’ve also painted four walls that belong to us with messages of hope.

Can you expand on that?

They’re very simple murals that come with one fundamental message: that things will get better. The background

colors we’ve used are expressive and vivid and the messages themselves are devoid of any political or religious leanings – these murals are for everyone. We also added in a smiley icon as we wanted to show that a smile, even a virtual one, was still a smile.

The works have quickly gone viral – are you surprised?

The news is being dominated by the negative right now, so whilst we know that our murals won’t change the world or bring this all to an end, we just wanted to lend a little positivity to the world. Some firms have used their extra time to make masks or supply food – painting walls is our way of giving back to the public during these times.

What have you learned from all of this?

We don’t need to be in the office all of the time. Of course, when it comes to painting walls then our painters need to be at a wall at a precise moment in time, but the backroom staff – those in sales, design, etc. – can just as easily do their jobs online as in the office. With the right energy, working remotely can even be more effective.

It’s been an interesting crash course in home working, one that under normal conditions would have taken ages.

For more on Good Looking Studio, see: goodlooking.pl warsawinsider.pl

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HISTORY

Trading Places

News that the reconstruction of Emilia has moved a step closer was met with applause in April – but as remarkable as it sounds, this won’t be the first Warsaw landmark to find itself standing at an entirely new address…

Resilient, courageous, combative and triumphant, the figure of Nike is all these and more. Standing at the intersection of Nowy Przejazd and Solidarności, the Greek Goddess of Victory (you didn’t think we were referring to the sneaker firm, did you?), has spent pretty much her whole life in transit.

Wielding a two-meter sword the 10-ton Goddess – her face apparently modelled on designer Marian Konieczny’s adolescent daughter – was cast in Gliwice before being transported up to Warsaw in two separate pieces. Unveiled

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PHOTOGRAPHS NAC

Just Do It

on 20th July, 1964, on Pl. Teatralny, she was moved in 1995 after the decision was taken to rebuild the Jabłonowski Palace.

For two years she stood awkwardly behind this construction site before eventually being carried the short distance to her current home by a mobile crane. Marian Konieczny, by now a respected artist with sculptures across the world, was consulted and presented a plan to set her on a new 20-meter plinth to give her the prominence she deserved. City Hall argued that nine-metres was enough, and after a bit of too-and-froing a compromise of 14-meters was reached.

>>>

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HISTORY

Hold Your Horses!

Good Heavens!

In a country filled with majestic churches, NMP on Solidarności 80 fails to stand out… at least at face value.

One of two Catholic churches to fall inside the Ghetto, it was rebuilt in 1956 following war damage. Its story, mind you, took a twist six years later when plans to widen the street presented decision makers with two options: either demolish it save for a few details, or shift the entire thing back. Keen to avoid offending Catholic sensibilities, they chose the latter.

Hoisted onto six tracks and 420 rollers, the church found itself moved a distance of 21-meters in the space of a night. A highly risky operation – no-one was sure if the structure would withstand such a feat – the church was moved at a rate of six centimeters per minute. Finally, to the cheers of the crowd that had assembled, at 4.45 a.m., a pair of flashing headlights announced that the action had been successfully completed.

Take A Spin

Completed in 1712 for the high-rolling Radziwiłł family, the Lubomirski Palace was extensively remodeled in the late 18th century before passing through a succession of owners who utilized it for a variety of functions: during the

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This interpretation of Poniatowski was unpopular from the start – rather than being depicted as a heroic Polish warrior, he instead resembled a half-naked Roman"

1830-831 November Uprising it served briefly as a field hospital, before then being transformed into a market place and apartments. At one point, a synagogue was included in the structure, reflecting the palace’s position in the heart of Jewish Warsaw.

The exciting bits mind were reserved for the 20th century. Purchased by the city in 1938, the local authorities decided it was time to restore this decaying landmark to its former glory. Their timing though couldn’t have been worse, and the following year the palace was flattened by the Luftwaffe. Between 1947-1950 it was rebuilt to replicate its 18th century style, and a tablet was added to a wall to commemorate a daring 1943 hit just outside on a tram full of Nazis. The weird stuff, however, was just about to start.

With the construction of the tower blocks behind in full swing, the decision was taken to rotate the palace 78 degrees so it faced Saski Park. On March 30th, 1970, the 8,000 ton structure was lifted onto ten hydraulic jacks, mounted on a support structure, then rotated around courtesy of 16 steel rails – forty-nine days later, it was mission accomplished!

Status: In Transit

Originally located on ul. E. Plater 51, Emilia was unveiled in 1969 (and only after an original section of the roof crashed down during the construction phase), but officially opened on January 15th, 1970. Cited as one of the outstanding examples of post-war modernism in the country, this was mainly thanks to an aesthetic that was perceived as visionary at the time: wide open spaces and a glass frontage designed to ‘blur the lines between outside and in’.

Functioning for decades as a furniture store that never really evolved beyond stocking furniture hailing from the KGB school of design, it was later given a new lease of life as the intellectually charged home of the Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw. Demolished in 2016, an identical replica is set to take root on Pl. Defilad with construction slated to begin once a competitive process for the tender is resolved later this year.

PHOTOGRAPHS NAC

Modeled on a statue of Emperor Marcus Aurelius, Prince Józef Poniatowski was originally intended to stand on Pl. Krasińskich only for the Tsar to interfere and order him to Krakowskie Przedmieście instead. Created by Bertel Thorvaldsen, the Danish sculptor’s interpretation of Poniatowski was unpopular from the start – rather than being depicted as a heroic Polish warrior, he instead resembled a half-naked Roman. But worse was to come. After the failed November Uprising in 1832 Russian consent for this patriotic Polish monument was withdrawn and the prince was soon dismantled into ten pieces and taken to Fort Modlin. Later, the statue was moved first to Dęblin and then to Gomel – only in 1922 was he returned to Poland where he stood in the Royal Castle’s courtyard before finishing up, in 1923, in front of Saski Palace.

The adventure wasn’t over. With the area rechristened Adolf Hitler Platz during the occupation, the prince found himself unceremoniously obscured by a black tarpaulin.

At one stage, a placard appeared at the foot of the statue as if daubed by Chopin (whose own monument had been brutally blown up at the start of the war): “'Józiu,” it said, “if you want to avoid my fate, say you’re Volksdeutsch – from Chopin.”

Finally destroyed by the Nazis in 1944, an identical replica was produced by Copenhagen’s Thorvaldsen Museum and presented to Poland in 1952. First displayed outside Łazienki’s Old Orangery, this new version was moved in 1965 to the Presidential Palace where it stands to this day. What remains of the original, meanwhile, can be viewed outside the Rising Museum.

J Ó Z E F P O N I AT O W S K I

LU B O M I R S K I PA L AC E

N M P O N S O L I DA R N O Ś C I 8 0

EMILIA

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PA R K S

KRÓLIKARNIA

GO GREEN!

For… The Best of Warsaw Łazienki

The most celebrated of all of Poland’s parks, Łazienki is fully worthy of the plaudits. A throwback to the Imperial Age, the gorgeous gardens are today ruled by the strutting peacocks that have made it their home. Pristine and picture perfect, points of interest number a Greco-Roman amphitheater inspired

by Herculaneum, the dramatic ‘Palace on the Water’, and an intricate orangery built to house the exotic plants collected by Tsar Nicholas II.

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Stranger still, don’t miss the Chinese Garden – modeled on Prince Kung’s Mansion in Beijing.

that you really can’t see…

For… Extraordinary Sculpture Bródno

Scattered with Moorish-style towers and neo-Gothic architectural elements designed by Henryk Marconi, Morskie Oko is a good candidate for the city’s spookiest park. Aside from a creepy mausoleum, the back balcony of the building at No. 5 is allegedly haunted by a weeping teenage girl picked off in 1944 by a Nazi sniper. The rumor’s been debunked several times over,

There’s one primary reason to visit Bródno, and that’s for a sculpture park that’s commonly cited as one of Warsaw’s best kept artistic secrets.

Sprinkled with wacky installations of varying merit, highlights number an upside tea house, a bronze nude with jets of water shooting from her nipples, and an invisible sculpture

For… Urban Legends Morskie Oko

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD SHUTTERSTOCK

News that Warsaw’s parks had reopened following their temporary closure was greeted with the kind of fanfare usually reserved for a moon landing. Just in the nick of time for summer, we bring you our rundown of the ones that can’t be missed!

S K A RYS Z E W S K I

but you’ll still hear some locals claiming that a Soviet tank can be found sitting at the bottom of one of the park’s three lakes.

For… Something Secret Dolina Szwajcarska

Originally created as an orchard in the late 1700s, Dolina Szwajcarska’s mixed history includes a stint as a pre-war fairground filled with stalls, bandstands and amusements such as fire eaters, sword swallowers, jugglers and an ice rink. Reduced to its current size after the war, “The Swiss Valley” is today a serene alcove of sunken gardens, cherubic statues and winding paths.

For… Moments of Refinement Krasiński

Immaculately preened, weekends at Krasiński draw groups of middle

class friends armed with picnics and their own set of boules. Bottles of wine find their way into the hampers, and there’s enough private corners to enjoy sunset toasts – how such behavior will be tolerated during these current times is unclear, so instead busy yourself by checking out the monument commemorating Poland’s contribution to the Battle of Monte Cassino as well as two remaining parts of a barricade constructed during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising.

For… Joggers Kępa Potocka

A product of the 1960s, at Kępa Potocka the curving canal-side pathway serves as a magnet for roller bladers, cyclists and joggers, though others will know it for its signature pink neon, a dazzly, space age affair

OGRÓD SASKI

created by artist Maurycy Gomulicki.

For… The PRL Past Śmigłego-Rydza

Laid out over war rubble, this former industrial area was remodeled by landscape artist Alina Scholtze and her team of little munchkins: over 15,000 school kids volunteered to create Park Śmigłego-Rydza, working diligently whilst bands tooted in the background to keep spirits from wavering. Opened in 1953, Warsaw’s first ‘dance club’ was closed after noise complaints (a familiar story), whilst the city’s first ‘permanent circus’ fared little better shutting after a year in 1971. Blasts to the past still exist though, namely in the form of a quite awesome 1975 statue honoring the post-war sappers that rendered the city safe from German mines. >>> warsawinsider.pl

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PA R K S

For… Romantic Proposals Ujazdowski

Serving previous functions as a military parade ground and a fairground, Park Ujazdowski owes its current look to Franciszek Szanior. Remodeling it in the late 19th century, it was on Szanior’s behest the area was filled with decorative pools, curling paths and little nooks. Curiosities abound, including a weighing scale once used by Charles De Gaulle (and displayed at the 1900 Paris World Fair), a nude statue designed by one of Rodin’s proteges and an itsy, bitsy humpbacked bridge ideal for proposals and selfies.

For… Sunset Moments BUW Garden

Why spend the afternoon inside a library when you can spend it on it instead? “Distinguished by its

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BRÓDNO

colors, scents and moods,” the one hectare garden that sits on top of the University Library is breathtaking.

Featuring sloping, metal walkways and leafy alcoves, hang around till scarlet sunsets settle over the Wisła right ahead.

For… The Love of Art Królikarnia

Królikarnia has always been good fun: built in the 18th century for Augustus II, its primary function was to serve as a hunting base, though according to some it was actually little more than ‘a high class brothel’. Now it operates as a gallery complete with an unusual outdoor sculpture park whose set of rules at the entrance specifically encourage reading, the flying of kites and the hugging of statues. Of the decorative statues, our fave is a work by Maria

Rostowska depicting a cute dog with spirally, trippy eyes.

For… Southerners Dreszera

Opened one year prior to WWII, the park was devastated during the Uprising – trees were uprooted for firewood, and the grounds utilized as a cemetery. Since revitalized the park is planned around a central axis and includes a distinctive memorial to local Uprising combatants, inter-changing poster exhibits on the gates and a fussball table that’s likely to have stood there for over 40-years. Be advised, the sign on the gate expressly forbids explosives, trumpets, watering the plants and jumping on the flowers.

For… Northerners Żeromskiego

PHOTOGRAPHS LEFT TO RIGHT SHUTTERSTOCK, KEVIN DEMARIA, SHUTTERSTOCK

ŁAZIENKI

P O L E M O KO T O W S K I E

Just off Pl. Wilsona, Żoliborz’s best-known park was founded in the inter-war years at a time when work on this garden suburb was fully underway. Six-hundred unemployed workers were given the task of landscaping it, and today its primary focus remains, as then, Fort Sokolnicki, a Tsarist bastion that served as a field hospital during the Warsaw Uprising.

For… The People!

Pole Mokotowskie

Bars (remember them!), jogging trails and bike hire points all conspire to make Pole Mokotowskie “the people’s park”. But it ain’t just for humans. This park loves dogs, so much so there’s a monument of a smiling Golden Retriever called Lokat. He’s there to remind people that animals need love! Other draws

include ‘Cosmo Golem’ (an unexpected wooden statue of an alienlike beast), and the ‘Kapuściński trail’ dedicated to Poland’s only officially sanctioned foreign correspondent during communism – find it festooned with his quotes and photographs.

For… Watery Pleasures Skaryszewski

Rumored to have been built because Tsar Nicholas II didn’t want Poniatowski Bridge (which was set to be named after him) opening out onto muddy fields filled with cows, today’s Skaryszewski includes a 9/11 monument dedicated to the six Poles who died in the tragedy and a commemorative boulder saluting an RAF plane that was downed here during a WWII supply mission. Often though these and the galaxy of other

monuments go overlooked thanks to the number of decorative waterfalls, ribboning streams and expansive lakes.

For… Inner City Elegance Ogród Saski

Originally inspired by the baroque gardens of Versailles, Ogród Saski attained its current look thanks to a 19th century redesign conducted

by Englishman James Savage. An ornate 1,000 seater theater – added in 1870 – cemented the park’s status as ‘Warsaw’s summer salon’, but whilst that’s since been lost, other elements have survived: a 19th century sundial, a chalice-shaped fountain designed by Henryk Marconi, a classicist water tower inspired by the Temple of Vesta in Tivoli and a row of sandstone statues depicting both muses and virtues. warsawinsider.pl

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THE KINGS OF NEON! With Warsaw undergoing a neon resurgence, we track down our favorites: the new, the old, the storied and the stunning…

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PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

NEON

Bubbles

Watering Can

Designed by Maurycy Gomulicki, an eccentric artist with an air of Ziggy Stardust about him, work on this 17-metre installation lasted two years with the results speaking for themselves.

Featuring a series of pink bubbles clinging to a sheet of wire mesh, this renegade artwork was devised so as to celebrate “the joy of life and the beauty of the moment.”

Marking the HQ of the city’s “Green Board”, this new-ish eye-catching sign needs little explanation – and that’s not a bad thing given the paucity of information circulating about it.

But then and again, do pretty things even need a back story? >>>

Kępa Potocka

Hoża 13A

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NEON

Volleyball Player Pl. Konstytucji

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: KEVIN DEMARIA, SHUTTERSTOCK (2), KEVIN DEMARIA

First unveiled in 1961, what is arguably the city’s best-known neon depicts a female volleyball player throwing a ball in the air – over and over and over again. Designed by Jan Mucharski, one of the fathers of Polish neon, the sign was first installed to advertise a sports store down below. After years of neglect, artist Paulina Ołowska funded its initial restoration in 2006 through the sale of her own artwork. “I liked that it features a strong, dynamic woman,” said Ołowska at the time, “and I was keen to show that neons from that era could be seen as equals to contemporary works of art.”

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Coca Cola Zgoda 13

A candidate for Warsaw’s highest neon, the Coca Cola sign crowning the residential tower at Zgoda 13 has become an established fixture on the city’s skyline. Part of the so-called ‘Eastern Wall’ – a brutal architectural development built to give a counter-balance to the hulking Palace of Culture – it offers the perfect clash between Western consumerism and dour PRL era aesthetics.

Hard Rock Café Złota 59

Purists will shudder, but the juxtaposition of the Hard Rock’s glimmering guitar against Stalin’s Palace of Culture in the background makes it something of a modern day classic.

Dating from 2007, perhaps no other public installation does a better job of highlighting the schism between then and now.

CeDeT

Bracka / Jerozolimskie

Designed and produced in East Germany as ‘an expression of gratitude’ after the Germans were given use of the first floor to sell their consumer goods, the original serpentine neon that once adorned the CeDeT building was lost in a suspicious blaze that roared through the building in 1975.

Now it’s back, with an identical, 4.5 ton replica built in close cooperation with the city’s Monument Conservation Office.

First added in 1951, five years after the building originally opened, the return of the structure’s swirly, blue neon sign has won widespread praise from members of the public. >>>

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NEON

Orbis

In a city still buried in rubble and grappling with the concept of Stalinist rule, the 1951 illumination of the capital’s first post-war neon – a glorious globe advertising Orbis, the state-run travel agency – could not have been viewed as anything other than a dark joke played at the expense of locals with no chance of ever seeing foreign lands. Regardless, it’s unique form has since made it an iconic and muchloved part of the downtown nightscape – to some, anyway.

“It’s like living next to a giant disco light,” complained one neighbor when it was restored to its blinking best in 2011.

Wedel

Szpitalna 8

Revealed in 1926 after being commissioned in 1926 by Jan Wedel – the Willy Wonka-style heir of the Wedel chocolate empire – the neon sign crowning the firm’s flagship store was the work of Italian artist Leonetto Capiello. Often regarded as ‘the father of modern advertising’, Cappiello’s design featured a boy on a zebra carrying chocolate bars on his back. Said to symbolize happiness and joy, and consisting of 61 separate neon tubes, the 1.2 ton neon was finally restored a couple of years back.

Metro Płocka Płocka

Opened in April with next to no fanfare due to the lockdown, word of what awaits at Warsaw’s newest metro stop is only just seeping through. Notable for it eye-catching neon

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PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: SHUTTERSTOCK, KEVIN DEMARIA (4), COURTESY OF JAŚ & MAŁGOSIA

Jerozolimskie 11/19

flourishes, Płocka sets a new aesthetic standard that the city’s other public transport hubs fail to remotely challenge (all that is other than Młynów, the other station to open at the time).

Zodiak

ul. Wiecha 4

The Zodiak pavilion reopened in 2018 as a communitydriven center of “architectural dialogue”. Along with a snazzy mosaic titled “Kosmos”, the neon is an evocative reminder of its groovy sixties roots.

Miło Cię Widzieć Most Gdański

Meaning “Nice To See You”, the neon decorating Most Gdański is actually hanging there by default. Part of a 2014 competition to find “a new neon for Warsaw”, the winning entry was disqualified after a cash-for-votes scandal was exposed, leaving the field open for Mariusz Lewczyk’s idea instead.

Jaś & Małgosia

Al. Jana Pawła II 57

It’s this sign that kick-started Warsaw’s modern love of neon.

Returned to its spiritual home in 2014 (above an old commie bar that itself had relaunched in a more modern guise), courtesy of a crowdfunding campaign organized by David Hill and Ilona Karwinska, the pair were so taken aback by the response that it galvanized them to create the city’s Neon Museum. “We saw how attached people were to neon,” says Hill, “and how desperate they were for it to return. If nothing else, it was a magnificent public outpouring of affection.” >>>

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NEON

Sezam

Marszałkowska 126/134

Marketed as the country’s most modern department store when it first opened in 1969, Sezam enjoyed its golden years in the 70s before Poland’s economic collapse rendered its shelves all but completely bare. Later known for an extension that contained Poland’s first ever McDonald’s, its eventual demolition in 2015 saw its signature neon saved and carted off to the Neon Museum. In a sensitive nod to the past, a sign mimicking the old was installed in 2018 when Centrum Marszałkowska was opened on Sezam’s old address.

IZIS

Marszałkowska 55

Wielka Warszawa

Marszałkowska 77/79

One of the city’s newer signs was conceived by artist Arek Vaz, and was implemented as part of the city’s public ‘participatory budget’. Shown is the ‘General Plan for Great Warsaw’, an urban spatial plan that was developed in 1928 by a team of architects and engineers under the direction of Stanisław Różański. With Warsaw’s population projected to triple to up to three million residents by 1958, Różański’s team sought to counter the chaos of such a population explosion by establishing new districts and infrastructure that would readily absorb the rising numbers of people.

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PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Hailing from the 70s, and with an older (uglier) brother on Pl. Bankowy, this neon flags the presence of a health and cosmetic clinic present on Warsaw’s map for over eighty-years. With its rich, red colors and enormous size, few neons in town make such a visual impact.

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PHOTOGRAPHY

Polska Britannica

Offering a remarkable insight into Britain’s Polish community in the late 70s, a new book captures the spirit of the era in magnificent, haunting detail.

B

orn in 1954 in a Nissen hut inside a Polish Resettlement Camp, Czesław Siegieda’s early upbringing in Britain was by no means unusual. Thrust into an alien world, his parents, Mieczysław, who had seen combat at Monte Cassino, and Helena, a survivor of Stalin’s Siberian camps, eventually moved to a small terraced house in Loughborough where they found blue-collar work in a foundry and factory.

The world, however, was turned on its head when Mieczysław was killed in a motorcycle accident just weeks before his son’s tenth birthday. Taking on responsibilities that belied his years, Czesław found himself assuming the role of ‘man of the house’, acting as the family’s translator whilst his

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mother struggled through the funeral arrangements.

It was to prove a defining moment in more ways than one. Recognizing the fragility of life and the world around him, Siegieda threw himself into photography, a passion that was allowed to bloom yet further when he enrolled as a student of Nottingham’s Trent Polytechnic School of Creative Photography.

Moved to record the traditions of Britain’s Polish population, Siegieda set about surreptitiously shooting what he saw around him, the results of which can now be found in a newly-released book titled Polska Britannica.

“What [his pictures] show us,” writes historian Jane Rogoyska, “is a close-knit community with a distinct set

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PHOTOGRAPHY

of customs and rituals. Whilst many of Siegieda’s images display a sharp eye for the absurd and all are marked by a visible affection for his subjects, his photographs of his close family are notable for their intimacy.”

“The great charm of these images, however, resides not in their foreignness but their familiarity. The Catholic rites and Polish customs may not always be familiar, but the humorous observations of bored teenagers, shy children, officious old men and gossiping old women are universal.”

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Principally taken between 1974 and 1981, Siegieda’s images offer an unparalleled glimpse into another era. Kept hidden for almost forty years, this affectionate and often poignant portrait of a community ripped from its roots offers a stunning insight into a period lost to time.

For more on both Siegieda and his book, Polska Britannica, see: czeslawsiegieda.com

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First Bite

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

WHAT A WAY TO ROLL

Of Warsaw’s fifty plus vegan restaurants few have caught the imagination in the same way as Edamame: ranked by the international portal HappyCow as the city’s top vegan restaurant, what sounds like an almost ludicrous concept – sushi without its primary ingredient – transpires to be every bit as good as the hype. Prepped by their sushi sensei, click your chopsticks through such choices as tofu tempura rolls with chili sauce, chives, cucumber, avocado and spinach; dried tomato, sesame and chive maki; or pak choi tempura and avocado wrapped in baked eggplant with teriyaki sauce, sesame and cranberry. Perfect with a steaming, stinky kimchi soup, it’s food of intriguing combinations, surprising tastes and heavy-handed freshness that strikes you with a jolt. Contactless home delivery or personal pick-up available.

Edamame ul. Wilcza 11, facebook.com/EdamameVeganSushi

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DELICATESSENS THANK YOU DELI MUCH

With the initial shock of the lockdown now subsided, both restaurants and chefs have mixed things up to explore new revenue streams whilst perfecting and prioritizing older ones. In this respect, a crop of venues are either emphasizing their previously existing delicatessen offer, or launching such concepts from scratch.

In the former category, few have nailed it in the same manner as Mięsny (Walecznych 64, fb.com/miesnydeli). Already enjoying a reputation as the city’s best butchery, business has thrived with customers continuing to stream in for products such as pastrami, roast beef, porchetta, regional hams, locally produced pates and a carefully selected choice of quality wines with price points averaging around zł. 60.

Similarly noteworthy, The Farm (Mokotowska 8, the-farm.pl) have also used the opportunity to boost the profile of an on-site delicatessen hawking Polish cheeses, organic honey, Warmian plum jam,

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Icelandic volcanic salt and homemade lemonade. The star prize though goes to a butcher’s counter revealing such finds as Kobe and Kagoshima wagyu beef and Aberdeen Angus reared on the restaurant’s own farm.

Onwards, and Butchery & Wine (Żurawia 20, butcheryandwine. pl) have also entered the game by offering meats aged for up to 60-days, Japanese Gunma beef, burger patties and a range of knockout breads baked daily at their sister restaurant Rozbrat 20.

Their sandwiches, meanwhile, have proved to be one of the extraordinary highlights of the lockdown.

Finally, let’s not forget Aleksander Baron, the Insider's 2019 Chef of the Year. Look to his Baron The Family label (baronthefamily.pl) to buy his award-winning pickles, fermentations, maverick kimchi salads, soups and sausages. Where those are concerned, you’re dealing with life altering choices such as gingerbread sausage.

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA EXCEPT FOODIE NEWS FACEBOOK

EAT! roundup

EAT! Review

Ale Wino ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

IN THE SPOTLIGHT!

While the majority of Warsaw’s more upmarket restaurants have pulled down the shutters, Ale Wino have premiered a takeout and delivery offer that has left all staggered…

A

le Wino: if you haven’t heard of them then you’ve probably just come out of jail. Should that be the case (naughty you), then an intro is in order. Their story, while not exactly rags to riches, does have that feel-good ring to it: what started out as an online wine store caught the city’s attention – a bricks-and-mortar space followed, along with a few tables, and a menu involving small plates of this and tiny plates of that. Everyone loved it. But the biggest step was yet to come: the appointment of chef Sebastian Wełpa, a move every bit as thrilling as adding a jet pack to some roller skates. Woosh – all of a sudden Ale Wino wasn’t just the wine bar everyone adored, but a fully-fledged restaurant trading punches with the best.

Pressing the boxing analogy further, neither have they let the pandemic restrictions put them on the ropes. Ok, so you can’t enjoy the labyrinthine interior nor their summer courtyard garden (at least, not at the time of writing), but you can at least enjoy cooking to die for. Taking delivery food to previously uncharted levels, the daily-changing menu (either order via fb.com/alewino or by picking up in person) is limited but outstanding. Offering a small a la carte choice and a couple of set-dinner deals priced at zł. 45, diners are rewarded with dishes such as duck with red onion chutney; beef brisket; and truffle risotto. Executed to their usual outrageously high standards, the Insider has simply never had takeaway food of this level before – it’s likely you won’t have had either.

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EAT! roundup

TAKE ANOTHER PIZZA MY HEART

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE PAGE FACEBOOK

Well, it’s got to be the tastiest quarantine we’ve ever had. With Warsaw going pizza mad the last month, we bring you the ones to watch in these takeaway times – with those listed affiliated to different delivery firms, check their social media profiles to see who delivers where and how…

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C I AO A T U T T I

format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint whose key selling point is an entirely vegan menu. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’.

Mąka i Woda

ul. Chmielna 13A Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, for many this is the best pizza in Poland, no questions asked. DIY pasta also available.

Mamma Marietta Ave Pizza

ul. Topiel 12 Arguments about Warsaw’s best pizza aren’t complete without someone suggesting Ave. Using a 72-hour process to make their dough, the authenticity of this Neopolitaninspired pizzeria isn’t to be questioned.

Ciao a Tutti

Al. Niepodległości 217 Looking like an old school pizzeria should (gingham tablecloths, tiled interiors, strings of garlic), Ciao a Tutti eschew aesthetic niceties to simply produce glorious pizzas that have you reminiscing about your weekend in Naples.

Ciao Napoli

ul. Długa 6 Old Town gets a bad rap when it comes to food, but buried amid the garbage is the occasional diamond: Ciao Napoli, for example. Specializing in Neapolitan pizza, the highlight is the Gorgonzola e Pera, a decadent affair featuring pear, walnuts, crudo ham and gorgonzola.

Dziurka od Klucza

Fort Służew 1B Upping sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team have magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples that go far beyond mere good. You won’t get to see their spectacular interior during the lockdown, but you can still at least enjoy knock-out pizza delivered to your door.

Focaccia

ul. Senatorska 13/15 Such is the quality of Focaccia that most express their surprise at the lack of Italian roaming the kitchen. Sophisticated mains are available, but the pizzas are well worth a look as well.

Leonardo Verde

ul. Poznańska 13 Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large

ul. Górnośląska 24 One of the most exciting Italian openings in recent times, Mamma Marietta’s menu involves a the lavishly thick Tuscan tomato soup, a range of pasta options and inventive pizzas cooked with passion by chef Andrea Scarantino. And they even deliver to Ursynów!

Otto Pompieri

Pl. Bankowy 1 If you judge pizzerias on choice then Otto Pompieri’s modest count of eleven pizzas doesn’t promise much – but then it arrives. At zł. 24 for 42 centimeters, the margherita offers the best value per sq/cm than anything else out here, while the artichoke pizza reveals itself in an orgy of melty virtue.

Przyjemność

ul. Marszałkowska 68/70 Present on Uber Eats and Wolt, Przyjemność break all conventions to bring you wacky ‘Californian’ pizzas with names like Ninja Turtle and Gringo Chicken. Despite the millennial commitment to breaking form and tradition, it’s by far our fave pizza of 2020!

Regina Bar

ul. Koszykowa 1 Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, on the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas are the order of the day – compliment them by ordering up some of their pre-mixed cocktails.

Trattoria Rucola

Various locations It might be a chain, but that point is easy to forget once the pizza arrives. Offering a vast selection, the standards rarely drop below top notch.

Tutti Santi

ul. Królewska 18 With a kitchen team trained by champion pizzaiola Valerio Valle you’d be right to expect something a few steps beyond your standard high street pizza. Cooked in a woodfired Valoriani oven, the attention to detail is something else: sauce from Pelati tomatoes, Milano salami and Farina Le 5 Stagioni flour. warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! roundup

LU K U L LU S

KUKUŁKA

MUUS

SOMETHING SWEET? Aromat

El Krepel

Deseo

Frank Warszawa

Various locations Produced on the day, Aromat offer contactless deliveries of breads, baguettes and croissants to the city center, Mokotów, Ochota, Wola, Żoliborz and Saska Kępa. Order 48-hrs in advance from: bit.ly/aromatdelivery Various locations Also continuing are Deseo, which is a pretty good thing given the quality of their ice cream (Insider lockdown fave: strawberry & mint), and the pretty desserts that gleam like jewels (top top: In Azia, a mango-passionfruit thingy with a soft, delicious center).

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ul. Śniadeckich 12/16 You’ll possibly know them best for tantalizing donuts filled with all kinds of sin; there’s also ‘proper’ food as well, meaning ramen, wraps and pulled pork burgers that can be delivered to your door through the week barring Saturday. ul. Polna 18/20 Mixing, so they say, French philosophy with New York creativity and Polish heart, a visit to Frank is like happening upon a little, local secret. The pastries are a standout, but you know what, so too is the ice cream. Pastry or ice cream?

Spoil yourself: have both.

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Warsaw has always enjoyed desserts, and things just got better with ice cream season approaching…

Jednorożec

ul. Narbutta 38 What is it with Mokotów and ice cream? Amid a hugely competitive field, the wide flavor choice, quality ingredients and loving hand of Jednorożec mark them a notch above their immediate competitors.

Ice Pot

ul. Wilcza 62 Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life. Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brownies, donuts, cookies and cakes.

ul. Soczi 6B Ice Pot finished last year (really, we were still visiting them in the middle of December!) as the Insider’s favorite scoop – this year, they’ve only gotten better. Produced by a true enthusiast, the seasonal flavors and occasionally wacky experiments (mulled wine, apple pie, etc.) never score less than a perfect ten. They’re in a league of their own.

MOD

Kukułka

ul. Tamka 22/24 Opened last year, Muus were set for great things before the coronavirus threw a spanner in the works – find out why by ordering online. Minimum spend: zł. 100.

ul. Mokotowska 52 Contactless deliveries or personal pick-up available of cakes, desserts, tarts and cream puffs – the latter are their best-seller for a reason. One of the best debuts of 2019 and well-deserving of your full support.

Limoni Canteri 1952

Various locations Founded by Giacomo Canteri – who was inspired by the discovery of his grandmother’s gelato recipes in the attic – Limoni have grown to become perhaps the most high profile of Warsaw’s gelato vendors. Highly seasonal tastes are complimented by the appearance of oddities that, in the past, have included, carrot, beer and tomato. Further, they sell special dog-friendly ice cream!

Lokal Dela Krem

ul. Hoża 27A Offering personal pick-up or delivery via Wolt, it says much for them that these dessert specialists find themselves ranked inside HappyCow’s Top Ten rundown of best vegan ventures in Warsaw.

Lukullus

Various locations Established in 1946, this family-run business is renowned for fancy cakes and desserts that see various classics tinkered and adapted for both the modern palette and aesthetic trends.

Malinova

Al. Niepodłegości 130 Opened in 2001, Malinova is positively ancient by local Warsaw standards. Tapping into new fads, flavors have become increasingly diverse, though it’s the standard classics that are often the best – the strawberry is a little scoop of heaven in a cone.

Miss Mellow

ul. Oleandrów 8 Warsaw loves donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. The mango topped donut is our favorite by miles.

Muus

Nitro Lody

ul. Zwycięzców 11 Frozen with liquid nitrogen, just watching the process through the hatchway is enough to make customers feel like they’re watching some NASA sponsored experiment.

Smoother than midnight velvet, the result sees super creamy classic tastes jazzed up with sprinkles of Lion bar, Gummi Bears and other such greatness.

Pallone

ul. Brzeska 29/31 Made to Italian recipes reputed to be 160-years old (with some personal magic thrown in to boot), Pallone pride themselves on quality ingredients: chocolate from Belgian and Colombia, citrus fruits from Sicily, and the finest cream and milk you’ll find in Poland. There’s nothing too wacky about the flavor choice but the tastes will punch you out. Wow!!!

Stara Lodziarnia

ul. Francuska 48 This hidden little treasure has emerged as one of the few places that can legitimately claim to challenge Ice Pot as Warsaw’s top ice cream. Interesting combinations such as coconut & blackberry are well received, but it’s the basics that are truly exceptional: no-one does strawberry better!

Vegestacja

ul. Poznańska 26 Known as the vegan square mile on account of its proliferation of vegan restaurants and cafes, it’s no surprise to find a vegan gelato stop (‘vegelato’) opening in the area. Top marks to sugar-free creations such as the orange & ginger or raspberry & cardamom. warsawinsider.pl

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Covid Restaurant guide

DELIVERANCE!

As the restaurant industry gathers itself from the shock impact of the coronavirus, a growing number have raised themselves from the floor to offer takeout and delivery options.

With that number growing all the time, we bring you the lowdown on the pick of the bunch…

DELIVERY SERVICES

Glodny, glodny.pl Glovo, glovo.pl Pyszne, pyszne.pl Room Service, roomservice.pl Royal Menu, royalmenu.pl Uber Eats, ubereats.com Wolt, wolt.com

TAKE NOTE!

The information published was correct at press time, however, keep in mind that the dynamic nature of the situation means it is both subject and liable to (rapidly) change. For deeper info about the restaurants mentioned, including their opening hours, delivery conditions and general offer, readers are advised and encouraged to search out the listed venues on their social media channels.

Koko & Roy Designed to travel and keep well (and even freeze!), Koko & Roy’s #StayHome menu sees the equivalent of two-tothree servings packed in a 1,000 ml container. Contact via social media to order beautiful dishes such as BBQ pulled pork; corn and potato chowder with bacon and chives; or beef and porter stew. At all costs, this Insider fave must be protected! (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, kokoandroywarsaw.com

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chinese

Pańska 85 If Warsaw’s best Chinese food wasn’t a reason to order, then consider swinging by to pick up a bottle of something bubbly – as things stand, drinks prices have been slashed by 50%. If you don’t intend on moving from your flat, then instead order via Room Service. (B4) ul.

Pańska 85, panska85.com

comfort food Burger Bar Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul.

Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Kura Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

american

Covid Restaurant guide the post-hipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. Find them on Wolt and Room Service.

(B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, restauracjakura.pl

CHOW DOWN IN LOCKDOWN!

Visit our dedicated covid-19 section online for a full list of operating restaurants split into a handy, easyto-use area-by-area guide.

For more, see: warsawinsider.pl/category/covid-restaurant-guide

Kur & Wino It’s hard to fault a concept when it’s executed this well. In this case, that means chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska cooked rotisserie-style and then served with an array of homemade sauces. And then there’s the sandwiches, beautiful things served on focaccia and smeared with honey mustard. Sure, you could call it street food, but doing so underestimates the level of love awarded to the product.

(C1) ul. Andersa 21, fb.com/kurwino Pogromcy Meatów Dude food doesn’t get much better.

Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. Find them on Wolt or Uber. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1

#warsawinsiderdeliverynews

Regina Bar The menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas are brilliant for a night loafing in front of Netflix. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/ Reginabar

french L’Arc Delivering what you might know as the city’s best upmarket seafood, hit up L’Arc for a 600 gram whole lobster with lime mayo, lemon and sauce for a bargain zł.

199. Oysters, mussels, shrimps, squid, etc., also available seven days a week and dispatched right to your door. (E8) ul.

Puławska 16, larc.pl

Showing a tastier side to quarantine, follow us on Instagram for latest dispatches from the delivery box. www.instagram.com/warsawinsider/ warsawinsider.pl

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Covid Restaurant guide greek & turkish indian Maho The food is thunderbolt authentic.

Get the Iskender: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of tomato sauce and fresh pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Mr. Greek Souvlaki The homespun warmth of this place translates to the menu: a simple but outstanding work of fluffy pitas wrapped around freshly grilled chicken; skewers of pork; piping hot pots of moussaka, etc. Warsaw has enjoyed good Greek food before, but now it can offer something even better. A family-run passion project, it’s with fingers crossed that businesses like this make it through. ul.

Londyńska 16

Bollywood Lounge The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer when it comes to Indian food. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking.

With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bombajmasala.pl Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry

House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as something very decent. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. Various locations, curry-house.pl

Guru After a couple of weeks weighing up the situation, Guru have reopened for both pick-up and delivery orders.

To use the latter, check Wolt, Uber Eats, Pyszne and Royal Menu. It’s the Insider’s favorite Indian for simply too many reasons, but among them are factors such as the duck vindaloo and their legendary phaal – marketed as the hottest curry in Poland, it’ll

Dawne Smaki Restaurant Traditional Polish cuisine

Serving traditional Polish dishes of the very highest quality at Dawne Smaki we offer more than just magnificent cuisine. Well linked to both metro lines and easily accessible from all corners of the city, our central location on one of Warsaw’s most prestigious streets is ideal for meetings and events that are sure to make an impact! ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel: 22 465 83 20, info@dawnesmak.pl, www.dawnesmaki.pl

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Covid Restaurant guide knock you sideways! (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl

something extra to a saturated market.

(E8) ul. Belwederska 44

Mandala This long-standing legend is known for its ample portions and online delivery service. Sitting down, the creamy mutton methi is a masterpiece, and the Madras recognized for its blitzing big spices – the chicken tikka masala, meanwhile, is absolutely smashing!

Various locations, indiaexpress.pl

international

Smak Curry There’s been a nationwide pandemic of average Indian restaurants, but despite the rather slim menu Smak Curry can’t be included in that list of disappointments. On the contrary, what the menu lacks in size it compensates in taste: from big, walloping whacks of lavishly spiced pork Madras to sweet but subtle mango chicken, here’s a restaurant that feels it genuinely adds

The Alchemist The work of British chef Ed Shellard, The Alchemist’s gastropub menu has been a beacon of light during these times offering such options as fish & chips, peri peri chicken and posh burgers. The real deal clincher though have been their box sets for two (and more) people. Including rib dinners and BBQ platters, they’ve proved themselves a cut above the rest. Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl Ale Wino You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That

alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city.

Their takeaway options are simply magnificent. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl Bibenda Thinking outside of the (delivery) box, Bibenda offer 3-course family dinners (zł. 120 for 2) couriered to you each Friday and Sat. Place your order before 10 p.m. on Thursday and they’ll do the rest. Focused on natural produce and unlikely combinations, trust them to cook something special. For instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, bibenda.pl Bułkę przez Bibułkę All-day breakfasts, bagels, snacks,

• Breakfasts daily from 7.00 to 10.30

• Modern take on Italian cuisine

• A unique atmosphere in the heart of the city Focaccia Ristorante Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town +48 22 829 69 69, restauracja@focaccia.pl www.focaccia.pl

572619_Insider marzec 2020_144x102.indd 1

2020-02-11 11:49:55

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Covid Restaurant guide fresh juices and sandwiches such as their best-selling tuna and bacon.

Find them on Wolt and Glovo. Various locations, fb.com/bulkeprzezbibulke Dyletanci Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the four years it’s been open. The epitome of the neo-bistro style, modern day reality has seen them stretch into delivering freshly baked bread, gourmet sandwiches, cheeseboards, wine sets and a small but fabulous selection of mains such as beef cheek or parmesan dumplings.

(F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl

GarMasz Combining the functions of a store, butchery and restaurant, GarMasz is the creation of Piotr Pielichowski, a cook best-known for his appearances on the Polish edition of Master Chef. A keen promoter of natural ingredients and fancy delicacies, the delicatessen arm of GarMasz continues to flourish during lockdown. (E4) ul. Kopernika 5, garmasz.pl

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul.

Złota 11, restauracjaloft.pl MOD MOD’s eclectic mix of ramen and classic French influences has made them one of Warsaw’s favorite eateries. Having premiered a special ‘stay at home’ menu of noodles, donuts, fermentations, specialty coffee, etc., track them down on Uber Eats and Wolt. They’ve got something for everyone. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/ MODOleandrow8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak is matched over a menu that presents classy dishes such as creamy breaded calf brains,

sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com

italian Altro Locale Set in a quiet section of Old Mokotów, it’s little wonder the plaudits haven’t ceased. Owned by chef Andrea Carillo, you can tell he’s invested his heart and soul in this venture: the result is an ever-changing menu featuring lamb chops, sirloin, and sea bream done the Italian way – don’t think you’ll be getting any pizza here! (E8) ul. Willowa 9 Posypane A casual restaurant with handmade pasta made fresh on the day and a choice that includes ravioli with chorizo and shrimp, bucatini Bolognese with seasoned beef and rosemary, and a creamy mushroom pappardelle.

Posypane is a satisfying addition to an Italian sector traditionally preoccupied with pizza. (D5) ul. Hoża 43/49 Prosciutteria Powiśle Based around cold cuts, find heavy wooden boards loaded with imported delicacies from small producers that the young owners have befriended: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; pork belly fat dry-cured for six months; salami from Milan and Naples…

There’s more, of course, but it all becomes one in this orgy of pleasure.

(F4) ul. Solec 85

japanese Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul. Piękna 54

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Covid Restaurant guide

B I B E N DA

Mizu Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, Mizu’s sushi sets a benchmark that Warsaw’s other Japanese joints can only aspire to. The off-center location adds to the impression of ordering from somewhere only those in the loop know about. ul. Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl Mr. Oh Having had its path to becoming Warsaw’s coolest nightspot inconveniently blocked by the coronavirus, attention now finds itself falling on Mr. Oh’s kitchen. And oh indeed.

Delivering within a 3.5 click radius, you’re going to find yourself treated to some smashing pan-Asian food that runs from bao with seitan and hoisin sauce to the wacky Samurai sandwich.

Al. 3 Maja / ul. Kruczkowskiego, mr-oh. skubacz.pl Sakana Sushi & Sticks It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art, and in Sakana that’s exactly what it is. Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations, their creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness.

(D2) ul. Moliera 4/6, sakana.pl Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis.

MOD

At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. They deliver pretty much anything on their menu (“no fried beef, desserts or eggplant fuzu,” say the management, “they don’t travel well”), when contacted by phone. Min. order is set at zł. 50 with token delivery charges applied. (A4) ul.

Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Uki Uki It was Uki Uki that first sent Warsaw noodle crazy, and they’ve taken the bull by the horns to continue their udon crusade. Pick-up and delivery options available with the latter only a choice within a 5K zone (“Sorry Ursynów,” say the management!). (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. Find them on UberEats, Pyszne, PizzaPortal, Wolt and RoomService. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl Yatta Originally born from a food truck, Yatta claim to serve the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw. Once you’re done

doing that, kick back to slurp over big, steamy bowl of spicy miso ramen. (E3) Bartoszewicza 3, fb.com/YattaBowl

korean The Cool Cat TR Mega fun, hugely tasty, pseudo-Asian cuisine delivered via Wolt and Uber – if you’re not on either of those, then they can also send round their own Cool Car! You can also pop by for pick-up yourself, though you’ll making your contactless payment by waving your card at the window – not even delivery boys are allowed inside. At a time when everyone is executing the highest standard of hygiene, TCC take it to unimaginable heights! ul.

Marszałkowska 8, fb.com/TheCoolCatTR KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/ KoreaTownRest warsawinsider.pl

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Covid Restaurant guide

FOR THE KONESER…

Despite the challenges posed by Poland’s coronavirus restrictions, Koneser’s restaurants are still serving up a treat!

Every once in a while along comes a concept that blows Warsaw’s collective mind – a place that changes the trajectory of the city by giving it a fresh set of wings: now welcomed into that fold is Centrum Praskie Koneser, a project that has galvanized the right rump of the capital and given credence to its growing reputation as the place to be.

Forming a key cornerstone of that has been a social offer that has made it the largest food and drinks hub in the city. Naturally, this shouldn’t come as a surprise given its former life as one of the biggest producers of vodka in the country. Now revived as an enthralling mixed-use development, a significant portion of the historic redbrick buildings that once housed the Koneser Vodka Factory have been given over to F&B outlets that have set a new standard in atmosphere and quality. Despite the lockdown, it’s a reputation that’s remained intact thanks to the home delivery and takeaway options offered by the best Koneser has to offer!

Centrum Praskie Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu Parking from ul. Białostocka, main entrance ul. Ząbkowska

Bombaj Masala Praga Rely on Bombaj Masala to deliver via Wolt, Pyszne and Room Service.

Including ‘street food-style Indian tapas’, the menu includes curries rarely seen in Warsaw. For more, see:

Ferment Praski Operating from Monday through till Friday, Ferment’s menu is regularly updated and has features various dishes that have seen traditional Polish food given a modernized spin.

bombajmasala.pl/praga.

For details, see: fb.com/fermentpraski.

Koneser Grill Koneser Grill have struck back by providing sandwiches, breads, aged meats, cold cuts and assorted gourmet ingredients courtesy of their sister restaurants Butchery & Wine and Rozbrat 20. For more, see:

Orzo

butcheryandwine.pl.

Sending out a range of burgers and pizzas through Uber Eats and Wolt, each delivery also comes with a free face mask! For more, see: fb.com/ orzokoneser.

Frankie’s Attaching themselves to UberEats, look-up Frankie’s for salads, freshly squeezed juices and healthy snacks from Monday to Saturday. For further info, check: fb.com/frankiespolandkoneser.

Syreni Śpiew Koneser Present on UberEats and Glovo, Syreni Śpiew offer a wide selection of mains and pizza as well as items from their deli. Lunch discounts apply, and if you’re planning a bigger feast then three orders are entitle you to a secret gift! For more, see: fb.com/syrenispiew.

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Covid Restaurant guide latin & spanish

middle eastern

Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, you find yourself demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a prelude to their signature paella, try starters such as beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion. It’s a takeaway that ripples with adventure! (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, casapablo.pl

Bekef Upping sticks to a new location in the heart of Warsaw’s former Jewish Quarter, Bekef’s kosher menu involves Israeli, Mediterranean and Moroccan influences to include falafel, shwarma and an array of hummus dishes – copious vegan options are also available. Al. Jana Pawła II 11, fb.com/bekefwarsaw

mexican Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’.

In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers.

But their true secret weapon is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. (D4) ul. Jasna 22, dostacos.pl

Le Cedre In Warsaw since the mid-90s, it’s going to take more than a pandemic to dent Le Cedre’s standing. Look to Room Service to enable your hankerings for authentic Lebanon. Various locations, lecedre.pl Maghreb Choose dishes like the creamy baba ganoush; zingy tabbouleh salad that screams with perky freshness; or the addictive mechouia dip made with roasted peppers and tomatoes. But these are a precursor for mains such as tajine dishes defined by their bighearted richness – in this, the beef is the king, with a deep velvet sauce of honey and ginger and knuckle-sized prunes. ul. Burakowska 9, maghreb.pl

Tahina There’s so much to love about Tahina that it’s hard to know where to begin: eventually, though, thoughts will inevitably turn to Warsaw’s best wrap contained within a featherlight lavash.

In a city where eating Middle Eastern cuisine still has the feeling of a high risk game of roulette, Tahina hits the jackpot. (C5) ul. Wilcza 26, fb.com/ TahinaWilcza

polish Bez Gwiazdek For the last two-years Bez Gwiazdek have dominated our Best of Warsaw awards with their sophisticated interpretation of lesser-known regional Polish cuisine. Having spent late-March finessing their delivery offer, they’ve now aced the takeaway business with beautiful renditions of dishes such as duck with pumpkin and cherries; tomato chłodnik; and beef ribs with mushroom puree. (E3) ul.

Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Dawne Smaki You might be missing out on one of Warsaw’s best gardens, but at least you can still try the food. Specializing in traditional cuisine, the cuisine has been fiddled with accordingly to

Gringo Bar A staple of the Insider’s delivery diet, find the hip hop lads at Gringo making contactless deliveries in a a pimped-up gringo-mobile through their own house app. Nachos, burritos and quesadillas plus a range of salsas that range from mild to lethal – we love ‘em! Various locations, gringobar.pl La Sirena Pre-order via phone to pick-up yourself, or get someone else to do the work for you by visiting Uber Eats or Glovo. This whole crisis would have been a damn sight worse without their short-rib burrito making regular journeys to this writer’s home office – this is the best Mexican food in the country, bar none. (D5) ul. Piękna 54

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Covid Restaurant guide

BIOBAZAR

transport well. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49 Polana Smaków Chef Andrzej Polan has been a pioneering force when it comes to Polish cuisine and his menu is an exciting work that places an onus of seasonal ingredients, regional produce, interesting combinations and a measured hint of tradition: sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. (C5) ul. E. Plater 14, polanasmakow.pl Pyzy Flaki Gorące Hearty helpings of homemade dumplings squished into jars and other budget, regional classics such as Silesian dumplings and trips soup. (G1) Brzeska 29/31 Schabowy Start with a classic tartar before advancing into the real reason you’re here: a choice of breaded pork chops made from Mangalica or Złotnicka pork. This is Polish home cooking at its best. ul. Obrzeżna 1, fb.com/schabowy. warszawa The Farm Preaching a message of farm-to-fork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted with the seasons – not to mention the limitations of takeaway

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BEKEF

food – the simplified menu involves steaks, burgers and even fish & chips.

(D7) ul. Mokotowska 8, the-farm.pl Zielony Niedźwiedź Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the menu gives star billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry full; but the truth is these aren’t the only heroes. The menu opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland in magnificent style. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, kafezn.pl

specialty food shops Befsztyk Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl BioBazar At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, this farmers’ market shines a light on ecologically certified goods

and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul.

Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl Forteca Kregliccy Dubbed by many as the country’s top farmers’ market, Forteca have taken their offer online to showcase produce from the likes of Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, targ.kregliccy.pl Kram Putting small scale producers to the fore, find veggies courtesy of the Majlert farm and grocer Pan Ziołko, deliveries from the Mąka i Woda bakery, dairy courtesy of Mleczna Droga, and several cult Polish brands such as Concept Stu Mostów. Craft beers, bio wines, and softs from the likes of Fentimans and Galvanina complete the quite extraordinary lineup. ul. Duchnicka 3, facebook.com/ kram.nativeingredients Rumuńskie Smaki Romanian food hasn’t made the biggest impression on Warsaw, but that

Covid Restaurant guide stands to change a little with the opening of Rumuńskie Smaki, a delicatessen with a choice of over 600 products.

Among these find jams, preserves, cheese, cured meats, confectionary and alcohol – artisan cider included!

The first store of its kind in Poland, bestsellers already include spicy Mici sausages. ul. Puławska 98

which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf. Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, beefandpepper.pl

steak houses

Butchery & Wine When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s now jigged its operations around to sell meaty sandwiches, fresh bread, wine and an array of other products. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, butcheryandwine.pl

Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind

Mięsny Offering pick-up or delivery for those within a 10-minute radius, this Saska eatery has a special crisis menu with slashed prices and mainstay faves like

burgers and steaks: at zł. 55, the filet mignon is an astonishing deal. And in the deli section, everyone knows you won’t find better meat in Warsaw.

Nothing disappoints. ul. Walecznych 64, miesny.pl

thai Bangkok Soi Such is the budget nature of the interior, you’re actually better off getting Bangkok to deliver – and this they do via Wolt, Pyszne and Uber. We’re not alone in rating it as the top Thai in town. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50 Thaisty The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ menu and moderate prices. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, thaisty.pl

Flavours of Warsaw - traditional Polish cuisine with a distinctive modern touch. Everything is made from fresh seasonal ingredients.

Enjoy, among many others, roasted pumpkin steak with quinoa, oyster mushrooms and beetroot purèe.

Or try our mouth watering pork ribs with Jack Daniell’s sauce, roasted potatoes, cherry tomatoes and rocketoasted daddle of deer with chestnuts, smoked celery purèe and pan fried Brussels sprouts.

Or perhaps you have a taste for duck breast with bean puree with French potatoes and marinated strawberries.

To finish off delight in our home made pastries. tel. 48 22 621 82 68 Żurawia str. 47/49 Warsaw www.smakiwarszawy.com

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Covid Restaurant guide russian & ukrainian Kanapa Ukrainian food gets a fine dining makeover inside a plush villa that’s all sweeping staircases and theatrical chandeliers. Rich and raucous in some parts, refined and delicate in others, the food is a credit to the cunning of the chef – who would have thought

Ukrainian food could be so sophisticated? (E8) ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/ kanapa.restauracja

vegan

Edamame Vegan Sushi Both magical and addictive, Eda-

mame’s vegan sushi has achieved a fame that many of Warsaw’s ‘regular’ sushi joints can only dream of. For full review, see p. 27. (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Krowarzywa Born in the hipster era, for many it’s the epitome of Warsaw’s vegan scene. Specializing in burgers, but now also extending to kebabs and wraps, they set a benchmark that all but a few can surpass. Various locations, krowarzywa.pl Leonardo Verde While they do personal pickup (normal menu items discounted to the tune of 25%), delivery is preferred. Wolt, Uber, Pyszne and Glovo all serve those needs, and in return you’ll be receiving vegan pizzas that break the law in their irresistibility. ul.

Poznańska 13 Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for ‘junk food’ that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous. ul.

Krucza 23/31 Tel Aviv Serving not just via Pyszne, Wolt and Glovo, this pioneering vegan chain has also established its own distribution channels using a central number. Their specially adapted ‘crisis menu’ features reduced prices and more hot options: highlights inc. the seitan burger, spicy home pickles and vegan gyros. Various locations, telaviv.pl Vegan Ramen Shop Prior to opening the management traveled Asia to track down the best ramen joints before heading back to Poland and trying to ‘veganize’ what they saw. Woah. These complex bowls of restorative goodness have been described as ‘world class’ by HappyCow, and this they are. ul. Finlandzka 12A & ul. Kazimierzowska 22

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First Sips

OH YES!

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Opened just before some total idiot ordered the bat soup in Wuhan, Mr. Oh looked a dead cert to enter the summer as just about the hottest address in the city. A semi-secret world for those In The Know, it was to this dark and decadent address that the A-list headed for late nights and Asian-themed cocktails that felt fun, playful and in tune with the vibe. Well, at least you can still get the cocktails. Bottled as pre-mixes and available either in party packs or as individual bottles, the exotica on offer includes the guava-based Sailor Moon and their best selling Straight Outta’ Bangkok – a refreshing tipple with Thai basil and lilac in the form of Elderflower Tonic Thomas Henry reduction. Just top them up with the booze of your choice and away you go. Mr. Oh Al. 3 Maja / ul. Kruczkowskiego, mr-oh.com

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drink!

HOUSE PARTY!

The weekend starts NOW! And the best party in town? Your house! Lockdown doesn’t mean canning your social schedule, and we’ll show you why!

TIP TOP SIPS

With cocktail bars unable to deliver booze to your door, a clutch have sidestepped the law by sending out pre-made, non-alcoholic mixes you can top up yourself with the poison of your choice.

In the world before Covid-19 (who remembers that, eh), Cosmo’s primary selling point was their sustainable approach to, well, pretty much everything. But beyond this novelty factor is a scrupulous attention to detail that manifests itself in impeccable cocktails based around Polish produce. Look them up on Facebook to find a pandemic menu featuring pre-mixes, syrups, cordials and infusions.

El Koktel

Cordials, syrups, bitters, bags of ice and, of course, pre-mixes, are all available from this steadfast Insider fave. In the latter group, find house favorites such as the passionfruit Solero. Going the extra yard, they also offer virtual online cocktail workshops for zł. 250. Check their social media for further deets.

ReginaBar

Pure retro-funk with tastes and aesthetics inspired by NYC’s Little Italy and China Town, Reginabar shouldn’t need much introduction to anyone active on Warsaw’s foodie circuit.

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The mystic-inspired cocktails are damn fine as well, and with the lockdown limits in place we’re buzzing to learn that they’re sending them out in the form of pre-made mixes stored in shiny space age packs. To order, check Uber Eats.

La Sirena

Arriving in the kind of plasma bag you see on Chicago Fire, La Sirena’s cocktails taste about a jillion times better than they actually look. But you knew that already. Not content with serving up the best Mexican food Poland has EVER seen, the cocktails here act as a perfect warm-up for the night ahead. Absolutely no idea what we ordered, other than it tasted fruity and had a pandemic-themed name.

Seek ‘em out on Uber Eats.

Woda Ognista

Split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era, the cocktails of Woda Ognista are matched by a compact food menu presenting ribs; duck dumplings; cold cuts; and pulled pork sandwiches.

SHUTTERSTOCK, OPPOSITE ALEX WEBBER

Cosmo Bar

save the best pint

FEELING CRAFTY

The pubs are closed but the breweries are battling on! Despite diabolical, and frankly petrifying forecasts as to their longer-term future, Poland’s craft producers have continued to do what they do best – churn out some of the most innovative artisanal beers in Europe. There’s specialty stores aplenty, including ten or so fitted with taps pouring fresh-batch deliveries into bottles and growlers.

For up-to-the-minute info, check ontap.pl/warszawa/sklepy. Already though, we’ve got our faves…

Your local breweries need you! Keep an eye out for regionally operating stars such as Palatum and Artezan, or think of the bigger picture by keeping abreast of the initiatives undertaken to save the domestic craft segment by visiting wolnykraft.org.

A Może Pifko

Kabaty has a gold mine in the form of A Może Pifko, a store with some 500 or so different beers and about fifteen or so taps manned by well-informed staff accustomed to everyday dealings with craft nerds.

Dr. Beer

Those living in Saska Kępa have neighborhood hero in the shape of Dr. Beer. Find a roster of six taps as well as a diverse shelf offer featuring a broad range of Polish ciders, salted snacks and every genre of beer you could ever imagine.

Raj Piwosza

This Gocław-based off-license touts twelve taps dedicated to domestic breweries, as well as ample fridges and shelves bearing labels from further afield: you’ll be paying top dollar, but Sweden’s Brewski is pretty tough to beat.

Szyszka Chmielu

Twenty taps in all, and whilst the majority are dedicated to Poland’s craft industry, find also tap wines and more mainstream brews from neighboring nations such as Czech and Lithuania.

White Whale

A stone’s throw from the Rising Museum, it’s easy to understand why White Whale were named the Warsaw Beer Trail’s ‘Shop of the Year’ in 2018. Complimenting the eight taps are a motherlode of beers from game changing international breweries that have yet to fully penetrate the domestic market. It’s the ultimate beer geek heaven.

GET THE PARTY STARTED!

Spotify is your obvious source of music, but do also keep a look out for your favorite clubs and DJs – unperturbed by the pandemic, many have taken to hosting weekly DJ sets. And for a bit of variety, also check the following…

Legends

Warsaw’s token British pub has been the model of the ‘keep calm and carry on’ spirit. Okay, so they’ve not been allowed to open, but has that stopped them from holding their legendary pub quiz? Has it heck. Check their Facebook profile for details on how to join this twice-per-month online affair.

Rock Your Lockdown

Run by expat musician Brian Allan, this Facebook banter page goes a step further by promising daily singalongs held and hosted by Brian himself each day at 5 p.m.

Worek Kości

When all this is over, it’ll be Worek Kości that’s in line for our Order of Merit.

Known for their eccentric feast of live entertainment, they’ve taken their activities online with May’s schedule including burlesque shows and, even, a serial killer webinar! warsawinsider.pl

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Covid CAFE guide

DON’T WORRY, BE FRAPPE!

In the face of adversity, a clutch of cafes have stepped up to the plate in their quest to supply the city with coffee… and more!

ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Working from 8 till 5, drop in for fresh baked goods, coffee and BIO food – if you’re out of walking range, then they also deliver orders of over zł. 50 free of charge within a 12 km radius.

Coffeedesk

ul. Wilcza 42, fb.com/coffeedeskwilcza They’re back! Reopened at the end of April, prior to the lockdown you’ll have known Coffeedesk for a dynamic vibe sucked in by a permanent crowd of head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads. Now offering take-outs from 8 till 4 (Mon-Fri) and 10 till 6 (Sat), it’s one of the Insider’s top recommendations for specialty coffee.

Cophi

ul. Hoża 58/60, cophi.pl Cophi lead the specialty coffee line by not just offering a takeaway service but also vouchers for brighter times as well as deliveries of coffee equipment and beans. Featuring a range of so-called ‘Stay At Home’ sets, these kits come not just with bags of specialty coffee plus the requisite cups and filters, but also a 20-minute crash course with the

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head barista, Łukasz Gałęcki. Conducted face-to-face via Skype, it’s a unique chance to learn from the best without changing from a vest!

Czytelnia

Al. Zjednoczenia 46 Definitely distant, but there are those that travel the city to visit – if you take coffee seriously, then you will as well.

Home to the city’s best flat white (fact!), this husband and wife operation is warm in ambiance and appearance, and the drive for quality reflected by their habitual acquisition of the latest equipment. During lockdown, pick-up from their window from between 9 till 5 during the week, and from 9 till 3 on Sunday.

Fabryczna

ul. Fabryczna 28/30 Seemingly vital to the everyday social dynamics of Powiśle, Fabryczna have faced up to the current events by opening a street side ‘hatch of life’ through which they’ll pass everything on their menu. Operating between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m., swing by for homemade banana bread, fruit smoothies and the best specialty coffee in the immediate locality. >>>

SHUTTERSTOCK

Być Może

Covid cafe guide Fat White

ul. Andersa 6 Upping Andersa’s cool factor to impossible heights, Fat White have chosen to take their show on the road.

Zap them on Facebook, Insta or via coffeeandsons.pl and co-owner Piotr will set out on his wife’s bike to deliver coffee wherever you are in the city. “We might have to change our name to Fit White,” he jokes.

Contactless delivery and pre-ground beans are an added plus.

Forum

ul. Elektoralna 11 As it stands Forum are open through the week from 10 a.m. till 5 p.m. (though check social media before setting out). Selling beans, contraptions and coffee to go, you’re in safe hands here – co-owner Sławek is Poland’s reigning Brewers Cup champion.

Francuska 30

ul. Francuska 30 You’ll spot ‘em a mile off – they’re the ones with a load of colorful umbrellas dangling over the terrace.

The coffee is a hit, but you’ll also find some brilliant kombucha and a smattering of craft beer.

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Hałas

ul. Jagiellońska 30 A legend on the left bank, Hałas have earned a stellar by combining twin duties as a vinyl record store and specialty coffee stop. Served through a barred window (hey, welcome to Praga!), pay by card and receive in return coffee sourced from London-based roasters Dark Arts Coffee.

Jaskółka

Pl. Wilsona 4 Brilliant vegan lunch deals brought to your door aren’t the only attraction of Jaskółka. Each day from 12 onwards make a beeline here for coffee and the best bagel in the north of the city. Pl. Wilsona wouldn’t be the same without the presence of Jaskółka.

Kawiarnia Kawałek

ul. Łucka 18 Supporting local means getting behind guys like Armand at Kawałek. Prior to coronavirus (blimey, that feels a lifetime ago), the chief attraction was a handmade nitro machine, now, it’s a same-day, contactless service that sees beans delivered to your door from the likes of Coffee Pirates Vienna and Girls Who Grind Coffee. Mark in zł. 11 for the delivery cost.

Covid cafe guide Krem

ul. Śniadeckich 18 A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Offering take-out and delivery, top marks go to their super sexy baguettes and serrano raclette. The ‘roast beef mayo’ sandwich is a hit in its own right. Open from 10 a.m. till 8 p.m.

Relaks

ul. Puławska 48 Operating from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. this café has attained a near mythical status in Warsaw for its retro style, vintage poster art and kick ass coffee. One of the oldest specialty coffee joints in Poland, you can also support them in their hour of need by buying vouchers for future use.

Stor

ul. Tamka 33 For many, Stor represents the very pinnacle of the city’s coffee scene. A flagbearer for everything right, they’re open for takeout coffee passed through the doorway. Facing liquidity issues, give them a boost by buying vouchers ranging from zł. 50 to zł. 500. If the city loses Stor, then we might as well all give up now.

U Krawca

ul. Siennicka 3 U Krawca lend a hip edge to blue-collar Grochów with an offer that includes homemade cakes, vegan flans, hipster colas and coffee sourced from the likes of Gesha. The espresso tonic is divine.

Relax Na Wilczej

ul. Wilcza 17 It didn’t take long for Relax Na Wilczej to earn a golden reputation, and now you can do them a favor in return by snapping up 250 gram packs of coffee from roasters such as Coffeelab, Shokunin and Rusty Nails Coffee Roasters.

Delivered to your door and discounted by 10% (15% if buying three bags or more), they’ll even grind the beans prior reklama PVM half_page_H_144x102.ai 1 19.06.2019 according toWarsaw your Insider preference.

Editorial note:

Information given was correct at press time.

Due to the fluid nature of the situation, stated opening hours and offers are liable to change.

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POLISH VODKA MUSEUM

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Taste the knowledge!

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Centrum Praskie Koneser Plac Konesera 1 Warszawa

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www.pvm.pl

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What do your favorite restaurant, cosmetics store, florist or boutique all have in common? That’s right, they’re local! Promoting conscious shopping, at Koneser we’re proud to introduce some of the local producers, chefs, designers and entrepreneurs that make our center so special…

Say hi to Monika

Krassowska-Kaszuba, owner of the Zielona

Łodyga florist. Beginning her floral adventure seventeen years back, Monika’s search for her true path in life has transpired to be a huge success, a point reflected by the glories of her store. With its huge selection of potted flowers, turn the four corners of your home into a colorful, leafy jungle, or catch up with Monika to hear her tips of plant care. Find Zielona Łodyga in Koneser’s Butelkownia space, and don’t forget to support Monika’s business by placing an order direct on Facebook!

Meet Przemek

Płachetka, founder and head of Ferment Praski.

Having dreamed for years of owning his own restaurant, Przemek left the corporate rat race to launch Ferment Praski, a restaurant where local products and Polish cuisine find themselves prepared using international techniques. Casual and convivial, the restaurant quickly became a favorite meeting spot for families and friends, reflecting the passion invested in the place by Przemek and his team. Delivering to your home or workplace, discover the modern taste of Praga and order on 22 210 42 01 or 785 873 84, or visit in person to pick-up your take-out!

Kasia Kucharska, the force behind Triki Tashka, has a background rooted in culture and art, and her experience and creativity have served to make a Triki Tashka a glorious concept brimming with literature, theater, art and the energizing aroma of bio coffee and chocolate. Simultaneously functioning as a cultural zone and meeting point, here you can learn the basics of beatboxing, make your own macramé, taste delicious food without unnecessary sugars and chemicals and enjoy interiors filled with artwork and furniture with soul. Find it inside the Koneser’s Butelkownia space, or lend your support by shopping at: tashka.pl.

Find more local producers at koneser.eu

Book Worms & History Buffs!

Presented in both English and Polish language, Polona.pl presents millions upon millions of documents, newspapers, magazines, books, postcards, maps, prints and photos as scanned and archived by the National Library of Poland. Free to all, browsing this hefty but easy-to-use digital resource is an addictive sport that accidentally eats hours of your time.

Polona Polona.pl

IT'S GONNA' JUST BE FINE! AND A SPOT OF CULTURE HELPS...

Keep the brain busy this SHUTTERSTOCK

month by taking your thirst for knowledge digital

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MUSEUMS OF WARSAW… Though locked for the time being, Warsaw’s museums have responded to Covid-19

by upping their digital offer to include oral histories, virtual walks, online collections, live discussions and educational classes…

Rising Museum 1944.pl Offering the definitive story of the wartime insurgency that led to the city’s wholescale destruction, no museum matches it in terms of local importance. Often hard to navigate (like IRL!), the website contains spoken testimonies and other archive material. Their FB, meanwhile, presents a video section and virtual walk.

Royal Castle zamek-krolewski.pl

Dedicated to the country’s most famous composer, look to the museum’s website to receive a comprehensive lesson on his life before making your way to Facebook and YouTube for video tours and live piano recitals.

Copernicus Science Centre kopernik.org.pl You won’t have the chance to experience an earthquake, walk on the moon or look at the world through the eyes of a snake (pleasures that would have awaited had you physically visited), but their FB channel does contain not just virtual walks but, also, weekly shows live from their planetarium.

National Museum in Warsaw mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Browse the entire collection at cyfrowe.mnw.art.pl and look out for numerous Polish-language initiatives such as kids workshops, podcasts and Thursday evening curatorial debates.

Royal Łazienki lazienki-krolewskie.pl Online primary school lessons, digitally

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archived art, curatorial puzzles and an interactive walk through the summer residence of King Stanisław August are among the attractions that await those that trawl this comprehensive website.

Though not the easiest to make sense of (you’re better off heading to their Facebook or You Tube), highlights include numerous videos that take you through the gardens and lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments.

Modern Art Museum artmuseum.pl

Train Museum ai360.pl/panoramy/680

Browse the online collection or search the website for their ‘Contemplation In The Time of Pandemic’ section. The latter sets exercises to complete to maintain your sanity during these challenging times. The video section on Facebook is also worth a gander.

Museum of Warsaw muzeumwarszawy.pl Telling the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that relies mainly on (often bizarre) objects, the museum’s offer is overwhelming yet rewarding. Accompanied with hugely detailed texts, flick through these on their website, or their Facebook for regularly updated (Polish language) videos and web meets.

Polin polin.pl Covering different stages of Polish Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day, Polin’s online offer includes podcasts, readings, online discussions, educational workshops and curatorial walks conducted live on Facebook and YouTube.

Over two-hundred scale models of locomotives and steam engines inside, and outside, a heap of trains in varying stages of life up to and including a German armored train and the personal wagon of Poland’s first post-war leader.

To get the most from it, use the virtual walk whilst flipping to their website on: stacjamuzeum.pl.

Wilanów Palace wilanow-palac.pl Often cited as being the Polish Versailles, first visit the website to soak in the indepth insight it provides into the history of this imperial palace before touring the chambers and ballrooms yourself by visiting: ai360.pl/panoramy/382

Zachęta Gallery zacheta.art.pl Few have done more to engage the public than Warsaw’s premier contemporary gallery. Aside from presenting their complete archive online, search them on Facebook for information concerning their kids workshops, webinars and Saturday art walks conducted in English.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Chopin Museum chopin.museum

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AND BEYOND Don’t apply #stayathome advice too literally – a screen in front of you is all that’s needed to enjoy a virtual visit to some of Poland’s leading cultural institutions…

Auschwitz-Birkenau panorama.auschwitz.org

European Solidarity Center ecs.gda.pl

Kozłówka Palace & Museum zwiedzajlubelskie.pl/kozlowka

Synonymous with the Holocaust and mankind’s capacity for evil, explore the corners of Auschwitz by clicking through a series of stunning images.

Remembering Gdańsk’s role in the fall of communism, the European Solidarity Center isn’t just an immense museum of great importance, but a magnificent triumph of modern museum architecture.

This beautiful rococo palace – once owned by the Zamoyski aristocratic dynasty – unfurls room by room in an orgy of noble extravagance.

Książ Castle ksiaz.walbrzych.pl/virtual_tour

Malbork Castle muzeumzamkowewmalborku.wkraj.pl

MOCAK mocak.pl/wirtualne-zwiedzanie

Perched on a craggy rock in the depths of the forests, the ‘Pearl of Silesia’ promises a stunning ensemble of styles and a varied history involving ghosts and Nazi history.

Appearing on most Poland-centric bucket lists, this mighty Teutonic castle is as impressive digitally as it is in real life – and every bit as confounding.

Seeking ‘to reduce prejudice against modern Art’, Kraków’s principal contemporary gallery is an absorbing, challenging and often amusing space.

Museum Śląskie muzeumslaskie.pl

Wieliczka Salt Mine ai360.pl/panoramy/279

WWII Museum spacer.muzeum1939.pl

Home to works by artists such as Mehoffer, Wyspiański and Matejko, Katowice’s biggie offers an online collection at your perusal as well as various digital trails that take you through the region’s history.

Dating from the 13th century, features of this A-list site include stunning chambers, statues and even chapels carved from the rock salt.

First walk around the Westerplatte peninsula, where the opening salvo of WWII was fired, before making your way to Gdańsk’s award-winning museum dedicated to Second World War.

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LEARNING preschools

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

American School of Warsaw Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@aswarsaw.

British Primary School of Wilanow A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9.

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

„Erdkinder” Middle School Tatrzańska 5a

Montessori High School

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

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www.wmf.edu.pl Warsaw Insider | MAY 2020

ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin.

The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel.

22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

admissions are international students.

The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes.

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old).

Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul.

Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two

green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Montessori Stepping Stones An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immer-

sion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

schools American School of Warsaw With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international

The pursuit

of excellence We promise to support your child to love learning and achieve more than they ever thought possible.

www.thebritishschool.pl

Please email admissions@thebritishschool.pl or call (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 to arrange a tour

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teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

British Primary School of Wilanow A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS).

Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul.

classrooms provided. Located just steps from Lazienki Park, the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420; ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826; ul.

Pytlasińskiego 13 (high school), tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul.

Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob.

692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education.

The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

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The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB

School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist.

Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary.olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08,

Frog Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. ul. Mazowiecka

maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

12/24, frog.org.pl

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841

Klub Dialogu Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. ul. Ordynacka 13/5,

3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French.

Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul.

Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is

Willy Brandt Schule Warschau One of the city’s best renowned schools offers a kindergarten as well as primary and secondary education conducted to a German curriculum. Św. Urszuli

klubdialogu.pl

books

adult learning

Księgarnia Bullerbyn A supremely cheerful bookstore peddling everything from pop-up books and fairytales to history and legends. The ace up their sleeve is a sizeable selection of English-language literature: and that includes The Gruffalo! ul. Chmielna 10

Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com.

Moda Na Czytanie Some brilliant Warsaw-focused coffee table books, as well a half-decent collection of Englishlanguage books that range from classics to contemporary fiction. ul.

cupofpolish.com

Bracka 25

Ledóchowskiej 3, wbs.pl

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

's ton B g n i d LU Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole warsawinsider.pl

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SHOPPING fashion Cloudmine Presenting fashion lines and design items from a personally selected pool of Polish designers and artists, Cloudmine’s philosophy is built around support for young, independent and upcoming designers. “We don’t chase trends and one-season brands,” they says, “instead, we love classics, minimalism and style.” ul. Paryska 17,

Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann.

Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

spas & salons

ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

cloudmine.pl

Pan Tu Nie Stal Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a mustvisit. Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi,

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi,

Creamy Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia Pinchinat-Witucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum components, sulphates or silicones. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw), creamy.pl

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Looking back

Though the origins of the May Day holiday can be traced back to ancient Roman times, it was in the late 19th century that it was hijacked to serve as International Workers’ Day. Once communism swept this swathe of post-war Europe, it became one of the biggest days of the calendar, with every commie state using it as an excuse to boast their military might whilst also organizing workers’ parades and likeminded events – not that these always went smoothly. In 1951, for instance, portraits of Stalin, Bierut and Lenin were mistakenly accompanied by slogans underneath declaring “Down With Warmongers”. Deemed an official public holiday since 1950, the parades have long been a thing of the past but now, as then, locals have still enthusiastically seized the opportunity to hit Warsaw’s beaches, stroll the Old Town in unwieldy family packs and generally dawdle in the parks.

With another national holiday falling on May 3rd (when Poles celebrate the 1791 signing of the country’s constitution), the two dates have come to be practically co-joined under the catch-all title of Majówka.

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NAC

MAY DAY, MAY DAY!

VIRTUAL THEATER

How and why should theater function online? Is it possible to transfer stage performances into the virtual domain?

Józef Szajna, during his tenure as director, invited Oskar Hansen to convert the large stage of our Theatre. Hansen suggested it be transformed in line with “open form” rules.

In honoring this tradition, when we're unable to stage performances on our actual stages, we change studio_online into a virtual atelier.

We invite theatrical and visual artists to deliver projects which aim to work with the language of creative arts connected with changes in our world, those we are collectively experiencing. We want to use the period of quarantine to evolve the idea of our Studio as an atelier which makes direct contact with both the art and the artist possible.

Studio_online is a symbolic space, representing virtual “ateliers” involving gifted and renowned creatives, in the belief that we are thus facilitating the intentions of those who named Witkacy's Theatre “Studio”. teatrstudio.pl/pl