Warsaw Insider 186 February 2012

Euro 2012: Russia page 24

Historic Vodka page 22

Warsaw Valentine’s page 14

Top Romantic Escapes

page 18

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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to our readers

FEBRUARY 2012

Love, Truth & Honesty

PHOTOGRAPH TOP SHUTTERSTOCK. BOTTOM FROM LEFT, BOBROWIEC, KAROLINA KALINOWSKA, COURTESY OF CSW.

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a! I told you so!! Having spent the last couple of issues forecasting a winter most horrid I’m delighted to see that my dire predictions have finally come to roost – yes, it’s gruesome outside, with Warsaw assuming a swampy look reminiscent of the trenches. Yet that’s not the only reason there’s such a slushy slant to this edition: it’s Valentine’s time, and out of respect for St. V. we’ve volunteered everything we know to make that day work.

So treasure this mag – it won’t save your life, but it might save your marriage. You know that brilliant hotel you’ve been pondering for a romantic weekend? Don’t bother. The bed sheets suggest the previous occupant was murdered. Instead, check our seven dead certs for a winning weekend. Closer to home, we’ve got Valentine’s ideas that run from the supersaving to totally bank breaking; however deep your pockets, they’re sure to impress.

Away from Cupid’s arrow, my right hand man, the honorable Ingham, takes to the skate rink to relive his youth. Kit F. Chung finds a vodka resurrected, while the Insider prepares for the imminent influx of our comrades from Russia. Of the other contributors to whom I’m forever in debt, Gill B-B gets booked and hooked on the local library, while the ever eloquent and elegant Ms. Le Nart goes shopping then bopping – at a pole dancing class, no less.

As you might imagine, it’s been an immensely fun issue to work on. But that’s not even half the story. In the process we’ve dined at the best restaurant in Poland, as well as stumbling on (and out of) a fab Czech pub full of beery bonhomie. This is, in short, a fine February issue.

Enjoy it, and don’t forget to subscribe to our Thursday e-letter for new content, hot finds, weekly events and a bundle of bits that will illuminate your day for a full twelve minutes. Add yourself to our mailing list at: newsletter@warsawinsider.pl.

See you next month...

Alex Webber

awebber@valkea.com

Insider’s TOP 3 Insider’s editorial intern, Karolina Kalinowska, describes her bond with Warsaw as an “on-and-off lovehate relationship”.

Maybe it’s because she never has time to uncover the capital’s well-hidden gems. Even so, while her birth certificate says USA, Warsaw will always be her home.

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Café Relaks ul. Puławska 48 (enter from ul. Dąbrowskiego) With one of the best lattes in town, retro chairs and art from Poland’s golden poster years on the walls. Come in to try all their unique Fairtrade coffees and admire the changing wall displays. And for all those bikelovers, well so are they.

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Left Bank of the Wisła Of recent, my favorite place in Warsaw. Take on a new perspective of the city from one of the bridges or slow down for a while and watch the seagulls. Sitting on the concrete steps, I can take a break from the city’s din.

From there it’s just a few steps to Czuły Barbarzyńca – warm up there with coffee and a book.

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CSW ul. Jazdów 2 (Zamek Ujazdowski) After a long series of disappointing exhibits at the Zachęta, I’ve made this my permanent home where I can treat myself to a satisfying art fix and at least an hour in their bookstore. And I have yet to discover their diverse screening room... If I could, I would literally live there.

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what’s inside:

FEBRUARY 2012

FEATURES

COLUMNS

80 The Mayor Warsaw’s man about town Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Agnieszka Jęksa ajeksa@valkea.com Karolina Kalinowska Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: Bartosz Bajerski Gill Boelman-Burrows Kit F. Chung David Ingham Marysia Masterlarsz Michał Miszkurka Anna J. Kutor Paula Rewald Laura Klos Sokol

Arts and Entertainment

Eating Out

Going Out

Till You Drop

Lifestyle

07 Insider’s Pick Raphael Saadiq 08 Calendar Music, art and happenings around town 08 Museums Top cultural institutes 09 The Screening Room Film openings 27 I nsider’s Pick Atelier by Amaro 34 Second Look Le Cedre 38 Hot Find Theatro 48 Review Tawerna Patris

14 Valentine’s in Warsaw Foolproof advice 01 The Editor Writes Opening words from on what to do and where to do it the editor, and a personal top 3 from contributor Karolina Kalinowska 16 Valentine’s Getaways Seven great escapes for Valentine’s weekend 04 Why Warsaw? Fashion designer Rodrigo de la Garza 20 Gifts Twelve red hot picks by the Insider 10 In Front Death camp Lego, Reagan,

team for him and for her Doda, Polish your Polish 22 Drinks J.A Baczewski Vodka makes an overdue comeback 12 Mum’s The Word Warsaw’s libraries explored 24 Euro 2012 The offical guide to all that is Russian in Warsaw 13 Relics of the PRL A bomb shelter turned good and a radical action at Bar Prasowy

Editor-in-chief

Art Director

Editor

Editorial Intern

Publisher Advertising Manager Distribution Manager

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Insider’s Pick Syreni Śpiew Hot Find Czeska Baszta

61 Insider’s Pick Vitkac – Wolf Bracka 65 Insider’s Pick Oh la la 77 Classifieds 78 Warsaw Map and Street Index

Agnieszka Le Nart Christian Swindells Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed with amichalik@valkea.com, tel. 22 678 9912

Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS tel. 022 783-6000

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2012 Warsaw Insider.

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COVER ILLUSTRATION MICHAŁ MISZKURKA, PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF EASYAIR

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LISTINGS

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WHY WARSAW? Why Poland, not Mexico, or for that matter France and Germany where you’ve also lived?

I moved here from Germany as my family’s company – exporting alpacas – was expanding to the East. I had to sell the company while I was living here and start from scratch.

Well, I’ve always wanted to be a designer so I gave it a shot in Poland. If I’d been living in France or Germany at the time, I’d have chosen those.

How has Polish design developed since you came here?

There are many talented Polish designers aware of worldwide fashion trends. For instance, there’s a segment of the community that is very Scandinavian and influenced by the androgynous style. When I came here, the gay community was a taboo. Now it’s more open. The fashion is developing in line with the world.

Why is the Polish street that gray though?

Communism. It’s changing more and more, but it takes a while to get rid of these things and to move forward.

Do men need to grow up to find the courage to wear your clothes?

They don’t need to grow up, they just need to venture a little more. It’s not only Polish guys, it could be anybody in the world. To wear a red sports coat is a bold move, because you’re going to bring a lot of attention to yourself.

THE SUBSTANCE TO THE STYLE

A darling of the Warsaw fashionista, Mexican native Rodrigo de la Garza takes time out to speak to the Insider about keeping up appearances…

BY AGNIESZKA JĘKSA

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What were you expecting of Poland?

I didn’t have any stereotypes in mind, but people warned me to watch my wallet, watch my car, not to trust anybody and to be careful, “because there are many gangsters”. It’s kinda’ funny, since myself and most of my foreign friends feel extremely safe in Poland. I’ve only had one problem in eight years – I got mugged.

But I feel I can walk around the streets at 3am and not look over my shoulder. It’s different in Germany, France and England. Oh, and Poland is more Catholic than Mexico – you guys are even more devoted than us!

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Others say that your clothes are just classics in flashy colors. True?

The majority of my clients buy navy blue suits and black suits, since they’re business guys. They’re attracted by the color, but they buy three work suits, because they like the cut. My cut is very specific, it’s very slim – it leaves two cm on the body, so it gives a very nice silhouette. And then they will buy one red or orange item, for a party or a special event, so there’s a balance of both.

You use Zombie Boy as a model. Don’t you worry his tattoos will attract more attention than your clothes?

He’s the exclamation mark at the end of the sentence. I don’t think my clothes get drowned by him. Anytime you use a model, it doesn’t matter who they are or how they look like, they’re just an accent for your clothing, like a bonus.

What’s the future?

My next collection will be for spring/summer and for both men and women. If you’ve seen the film The Great Gatsby, you’ll get an idea of what it’ll be like. I’m also opening a new big store on Pl. Trzech Krzyży, and hopefully launching a Mexican restaurant!

For more on Rodrigo’s work check out his designs on: www.delagarza.it

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE COURTESY OF DE LA GARZA, OPPOSITE PAGE COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS

Still, some men might accuse your clothes of being a bit exuberant and feminine…

Any guy that says my clothes are that is not my target group.

I don’t want to convince him. If a guy thinks that a bright color is ‘feminine’ then he doesn’t have the right mentality to wear my clothing.

ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENT Concerts, Events, Museums & Galleries

Insider’s Pick

28 Tue Concert Raphael Saadiq Sala Kongresowa, PKiN, Plac Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl

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aadiq was the star of the Positive Vibrations Festival back in 2011. Now he’s back in Poland to charm the audience with his velvety voice and glam stylizations. Known for ‘full-of-vibe’ live performances, Saadiq has so far played with Macy Gray, Snoop Dog, Whitney Houston, Angie Stone and many more besides. He’s also done a tour with Prince: “Next thing I knew I was in Tokyo, in a stadium, singin’ Erotic City,” says the Oakland-born legend. “We were in huge venues with the biggest sound systems in the world; all these roadies throwin’ me basses, and a bunch of models hangin’ round Prince to party. For

Above: Saadiq at the Positive Vibrations Festival, 2011, Białystok almost two years. That was my university.” Lucky man.

A multitalented composer, vocalist and producer, Saadiq mixes retro R&B, funk, hip hop and soul into his very own musical salsa.

Not by chance his music path began at the age of six - since then he’s been playing the bass, drums and guitar, all the time fighting to ignore a tragic past which included the premature death of four siblings.

Saadiq’s first solo album, Instant Vintage, was nominated five times for a Grammy. His latest album, Stone Rollin, is, according to the man himself, “a throwback-artist-with-a-futuristic-twist”. Find him playing bass, melotron, keys, guitar, percussion and even drums on most of its tracks - with highlights including the gritty-rockin’ single Radio; the pounding, Sly Stone-influenced Heart Attack; and the urgently spiritual, choir-assisted Go To Hell. Keep an ear out for them at this concert. Tickets from zł. 90 to zł. 250. (AJ)

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ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT 3 FRI

7 TUE

10 FRI

Concert

Concert

Festival

Balanda DidgeridooDuo CSW, ul. Jazdów 2 (Zamek Ujazdowski), www.csw.art.pl Tooting on Aboriginal didgeridoos, rely on the Balanda duo to take you into a hypnotic bliss where ambient rhythms merge with ethnic.

Lamb Klub Palladium, ul. Złota 9, tel. 22 822 3003, www.palladium.art.pl A Manc duet inspired by the ‘Bristol sound’ and the trip hop that was born from it. See this lot showcase a softer side of the genre. Tickets zł. 100-120.

Equal Rights for Love Festival www.frpdm.pl An LGBT fest whose very spirit you’ll find reflected in screenings of Warhol flicks, a cotillion party, DragKings show, and a fashion parade starring the H0M0 label...

And that’s the tip of the iceberg.

Till Feb 19th.

5 SUN Concert

Chris Rea PKiN, Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl Gravel-voiced Chris Rea is one of the UK’s best selling musical exports. He’s here in Warsaw to shift copies of his Santo Spirito album.

Concert

9 THU Musical Hair PKiN, Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl Hippie counter culture and the sexual revolution are celebrated in this classic sixties rock musical. Feel the love and join the Hair revival for the hippie price of zł. 35.

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The Beatles & Queen Valentine’s Day Jam PKiN, Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl Experience the synthesis of these two seemingly polar opposites; find their greatest hits combined with lively choreography. Tickets zł. 100-160.

Concert Peter Hook & The Lights Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99a, tel. 22 822 3003, www.klubproxima.com.pl Hooky, co-founder of band noir Joy Division and New Order, arrives to Warsaw to play new material, as well as some of the old school classics.

13 MON Musical comedy gala Valentine’s Day Musical Comedy Gala Teatr Roma, ul. Nowogrodzka 49, tel. 22 628 8998, www.teatrroma.pl Featuring elements of opera, musical comedy and Italian Bel Canto this extravaganza comes hosted by three cloak-wearing tenors.

14 TUE Musical The Rocky Horror Show Och-teatr, ul. Grójecka 65, tel. 22 589 5200, www.ochteatr.com.pl The story of a young couple, Brad and Janet, and their meeting with a bisexual transvestite scientist going under the name

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF ARTISTS

>>

EVENT CALENDAR of Frank’n’Furter. The word cult was surely made with this bizarre comedy/musical in mind. A global hit, expect the cross-dressing to extend to the audience. Runs till the 17th.

CSW, ul. Jazdów 2 (Zamek Ujazdowski), www.csw.art.pl This time the prog includes a performance from Austrian-based Mia Zabelka, apparently one of the most innovative violinists in the world.

Ujazdowski), www.csw.art.pl One of Poland’s most celebrated electronic acts finds his notes complimented by the live visuals of Odile Bernard Schröder.

MEDIA PATRONAGE

24 FRI Concert

15 WED Concert Sting PKiN, Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl The public clearly doesn’t care that prices for Sting topped out at zł. 1,000 – in fact, a quick sellout swayed the spiritual crooner into holding a second gig the following night.

17 FRI Concert Monotype Zone

OPETH Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10, tel. 22 825 6031, www.stodola.pl Hail the Swedish rockers, world famous stars on the prog-metal scene. If you like, catch ’em – this is their only scheduled appearance in Poland. Tickets zł. 130.

LIVE THIS MONTH 6 MON

14 TUE

7TUE

The Pigeon Detectives Klub Hydrozagadka, ul. 11 listopada 22, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl

Maciej Balcar Farben Lehre

13 MON

Piotr Rogucki

14 TUE

Marika

20 MON

Blindead

27 MON Concert Jacek Sienkiewicz CSW, ul. Jazdów 2 (Zamek

21 TUE Enej

27 MON

Deriglasoff

28 TUE

Vavamuffin

Concert

If you’re not in the mood for a romantic, candlelit dinner, take a Praga direction this Valentine’s Day for some quality time with The Pigeon Detectives.

Having formed in 2002, these five mates have already played with bands such as Dirty, Pretty Things and the Kaiser Chiefs. Known for their indie rock vibe, this promises to be a Valentine’s night that’s different to most. Tickets from zł. 35.

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ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT >>

museums & galleries Car Museum ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), tel. 22 758 5067, www.muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl Approx. 300 vehicles all jumbled together like a broken jigsaw.

Highlights include the ’79 Pope Mobile, Stalin’s limo and cars used to ferry Marilyn and Elvis.

Other bits and pieces inc. vintage motors, a double decker bus and a US tractor from 1895. Mapped out with little rhyme or reason, it’s a hoarders heaven, with extra oddities numbering WWII debris, a 7TP tank, a red English phone box and a plane... Don’t make sense of it, just enjoy.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, www.kopernik. org.pl If you thought the Chopin Museum was space age then just wait till you visit this place.

Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recycable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. This month: on Feb 24th a meeting with Keith Campbell who cloned Dolly the Sheep.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Flor Garduno, for instance). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals.

From February 4th: Missing Documents. Photographs of Polish Transformation After 1989.

From February 15th: Academy of Movement, City. Space for Action Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl A huge Insider favorite, the History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion – not least for the fab bookshop. While most titles are Polish language, there’s some fantastic photo books dealing with Warsaw’s past.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, www.chopin.museum.pl Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe,

the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to peronalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them his pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com One for the lads. Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna. Ongoing: an exhibition titled Legia on the Continent and a display of letters written to Kazimierz Deyna by his fans.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26 What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site.

Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Of interest, a brilliant interactive display of

wartime Warsaw.

Ongoing: And Life Would Have to Go On. Women in Ravensbrück concentration camp Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16 With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original.

Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol. Ongoing: Rambow’s Point of View and a new exhibition titled Vidical – Poster Calendars.

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, www.muzeum-techniki.waw.pl The very opposite of the new-fangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine.

Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Uprising. Exhibits range from a full

MEDIA PATRONAGE

3 FRI

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he legendary neon once found on the Skarpa cinema proudly announces MOMA’s one month kino fest titled The Cinemamuseum. You’ll be able to create your own path from the four different film sections: Artist Moving Image, Collection, ReForm and Curating Cinema, in which you’ll find works of directors such as Anri Sala, the Chapman brothers, Jonathan Horowitz and many more. Complimenting this delicious display of alternative movies organizers have also set up meetings with curators from the Tate Modern Gallery and Light Industry in New York. For the full schedule check: www.artmuseum.pl. Till March 3rd. Free entry.

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ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF VENDORS

Cinemamuseum (Kinomuzeum) Inside the Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl

MUSEUMS, GALLERIES & MOVIES size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl A very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide the visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Miroslaw Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski. This month, check out their new project: Cinemamuseum.

Zachęta National Art Gallery (Zachęta Narodowa Galeria Sztuki) Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl One of the most famed galleries in the country, with a plethora of international and Polish modern art to peruse. Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera.

From Feb 24th Rafał Malich’s 7 Rooms is a photo reportage illustrating the changes between the USSR and Putin’s Russia.

Ongoing: till Feb 12th No, no, no, I Hardly Ever Miss a Show and till Feb 19th Goshka Macuga’s No title. Till March 11th: Warsaw Encourages: a collection of movies and pictures of Warsaw at Okęcie.

screening room

opening this month:

3rd The Ides of March (Idy marcowe) Drama. USA. Dir. George Clooney, with George Clooney, Ryan Gosling, Marisa Tomei

Hysteria (Histeria – Romantyczna Historia Wibratora) Comedy. UK. Dir. Tanya Wexler, with Rupert Everett, Maggie Gyllenhaal

Four Lions (Cztery Lwy) Black comedy. UK. Dir. Christopher Morris, with Julie Davis, Chris Wilson

The Descendants (Spadkobiercy) Comedy / drama. USA. Dir. Alexander Payne, with George Clooney, Nick Krause

10th A Little Bit of Heaven (Odrobina nieba) Romance. USA. Dir. Nicole Kassel, with Kate Hudson, Whoopi Goldberg, Gael Garcia Bernal The Iron Lady (Żelazna Dama) Biographical / drama. UK. Dir. Haywire Phyllida Lloyd, with Meryl Streep, (Ścigana) Jim Broadbent Action / thriller. USA. Dir. Steven Soderbergh, with Ewan Hugo McGregor, Gina Carano (Hugo i jego wynalazek) Family. USA. Dir. Martin Scorcese, with Jude Law and Christopher Lee

17th

The Grey (Bestie) Thriller. UK. Dir. Joe Carnahan, with Liam Nesson, Dermot Mulroney

furniture lamps carpets cushions bed linen jewelery candles glass clothes tableware accessories

ul. Górnośląska 33 00-432 Warszawa tel. +48 22 6290361 www.scandinavianliving.pl

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INFRONT ART

USA

Warsaw's MoMA acquires a key piece of Eastern European art

QUOTE

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“... it's difficult to believe something written by someone hammered on wine and who had been smoking herbs” Polish pop princess Doda earns herself a zł. 5,000 fine in January for “offending religious feelings” after offering the above thoughts on the Bible.

POLISH YOUR POLISH

Daj buziaka!

(Die bu-zhe-ka) Give me a kiss!

Bądź moją Walentynką!

(Ben-dzh moi-em val-en-tynkum) Be my Valentine!

Stać Cię tylko na tyle?

(Sta-tsh ts-on tyl-ko na ti-le) Is that all that you can give me?

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Reagan in Warsaw Late US President Ronald Reagan is revered by many in Poland as one of the greatest political leaders of the 20th century due to his hard-line stance against the Soviet Union. In his landmark address to the American people in 1981, the then president referred specifically to the plight of Poles, then under communist rule, when he said, “By persecuting Solidarity the Polish government wages war against its own people. I urge the Polish government and its allies to consider the consequences of their actions.”

And to commemorate Reagan's role in Polish democracy, a statue of the former president was unveiled by legendary Solidarity leader Lech Wałęsa at the end of 2011. The 3.5 meter bronze statue, which is located opposite the US Embassy on Al. Ujazdowskie, depicts Reagan making his famous 1987 speech at Berlin's Brandenburg Gate, when he defiantly challenged, “Mr Gorbachev, tear down this wall.”

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: WARSAW MOMA, KEVIN DEMARIA, WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/DODA

Art lovers like will soon have the opportunity to view one of the most controversial Polish artworks of the 1990s, following the purchase of Zbigniew Libera's Lego Concentration Camp, by Warsaw's MoMA. The Lego model, which depicts a concentration camp with crematorium, inmates and Nazi guards, has been described by the museum, which purchased it for €55,000 from an unnamed Norwegian collector, as “one of the most important works of contemporary Polish art.”

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MUM'S THE WORD

FOR THE LOVE OF BOOKS...

In this Age of Austerity having a bookworm in the brood is a pricey business indeed – joining a library cuts costs, not corners. BY GILL BOELMAN BURROWS

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n a recent trip back to the UK we joined my father on his weekly trip to return library books. To him this was normal, for me a nostalgic moment, a place I visited weekly as a child. Yet for many reasons local libraries in Britain are at risk of extinction – the demand for the good old-fashioned book is not what it once was.

Immediately I felt compelled to question how my family accumulates books. As a parent I feel obliged to make my daughter aware of the magical world available to her through books, hence I am Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 2 9 F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 2

a regular at the American Bookstore. But with all signs showing that my daughter is verging on being a bit of a bookworm, it’s dawning on me that as English speakers living abroad this is an expensive habit.

Unlike my husband, the business traveler, I have never been one to travel light. Whilst he has embraced new ways of reading via his iPad, I still find myself with a case stuffed with paperbacks. And as it seems my daughter is no different, it’s not only a higher baggage allowance we’ll need but extra shelving too.

So with New Year on the go and my good intention to become greener, re-use and recycle I have taken it upon myself to enroll us at the local library. I can’t read in Polish, but my daughter can and for her a book is a book, its language, to my amazement, is of little consequence.

Via the internet I was surprised to find Warsaw has many public libraries and some specifically for children. With our residency papers in hand, and every other paper just in case, we set off to register at our very own local library. And what a pleasure it was. I can honestly say this was the first time I have ever completed a mission to a Polish state-run public office in one day, with a registration card given on the spot plus the purpose of our trip fulfilled; a handful of books at no cost!

I had anticipated plenty of book stamping before we could leave and an old-fashioned hand written library card, but instead everything was electronic. By giving my email address I’m to be regularly updated on book readings and other local cultural events. The children’s corner, although a little run-down, was cosy, and once my daughter accepted that every book was covered in dull plastic for its protection, she began to explore the shelves and marvel at the fact she was surrounded by books, glorious books.

So now it’s easy to indulge our reading habit without justifying expensive trips to the bookstore and regular flights home. You will still find us hanging out at our favorite book cafés, NumeryLitery (Wilcza 26) or MiTO (Waryńskiego 28) but now we have a new address to satisfy the craving, and one that makes us feel a little more connected with our local community. www.biblioteka.waw.pl www.koszykowa.pl

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN BURROWS

“ With our residency papers in hand, and every other paper just in case, we set off to register at our very own local library”

RELICS OF THE PRL (1952-1989)

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP: COURTESY OF UFFICIO PRIMO. AGENCJA GAZETA, COURTESY OF UNIVERSAL

We’ve long lamented the agonizing demise of the Polish milk bar, and it appears we’re not the only ones. Back in December, spurred by the closure of Bar Mleczny Prasowy, a group of hipsters and radicals broke their way in to raise awareness of the sanctioned erosion of these national landmarks. Chanting ‘Raz, dwa, trzy, pie-rog-eee’ the protestors then set about cooking up pancakes to inquisitive passers-by, adding a festive element to the Facebook planned action. Heavily covered in the press, the future of Prasowy – in business since 1954 – now hangs in the balance.

GIMME SHELTER

One address familiar to longer term denizens of the capital is Wspólna 62 – the one time home of the Ground Zero club, and the unlikely base of the original Warsaw Tortilla Factory. Completed in 1952, this blockish cubic structure was the design of Marek Leykam, the architect behind Stadion Dziesięciolecia (now the site of the new national stadium), the Ursus tractor factory and Poznań’s cylindrical Okrąglak building. Leykam had originally planned a 15-storey high rise for this spot, but a change in socialist architectural fashions saw him opt for what we see today: a beautiful building inspired by the 15th Century Italian renaissance – in particular, the Palazzo Strozzi in Florence.

Slated to serve as the seat of the government’s presiding committee (a function it filled for only a few early years), it’s from the inside that this building can be truly appreciated: neo renaissance galleries form a circle around the atrium while a cupola, punctured with countless skylights, tops out the complex. The conference area meanwhile, in the cellars below the covered courtyard, was to double as a giant bomb shelter. Added at the height of Cold War nuclear paranoia, this air raid bunker would later serve as the legendary 1990s Ground Zero nightclub: a testosterone fuelled cattle market popular with beer soaked cavemen and their bottle tan bimbos.

Having also spent a large chapter of its history as the PRL-era Kino Barbara, the glory days of Wspólna 62 had looked like they’d passed. But not so. Recently rebranded as the Ufficio Primo building, it’s been given a €16 million overhaul and transformed into A+ offices. For details, check out www.ufficioprimo.pl.

Lauded by The New York Times as ‘one of the best films ever made about exile,’ Moonlighting (starring Jeremy Irons) tells the story of a group of Polish workers stranded in London while Martial Law reigns back in their home country. Directed by Jerzy Skolimowski, who apparently wrote the screenplay in little over than a day, this captivating film is a cult classic, and a powerful glimpse at this not-so-distant time.

www.warsawinsider.pl

13

VALENTINE DATES

THE POWER OF LOVE

You didn't forget Valentine's Day, right, you just didn't know what to do – well that excuse doesn't fly anymore: we've found the answers. BY ALEX WEBBER

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But hold your horses. Provided you haven't already topped yourself with your aunt Penelope's shotgun, there is light at the end of the tunnel. And in this edition of your humble Insider, we've gathered a basket of ideas to save your skin. Ladies and gentlemen, follow Cupid:

FOR LADIES & GENTS

Le Regina – does it really require an introduction?

Regarded by most as Warsaw's premier boutique offering, this hotel really is something. And the thing is, neither is it a venue aimed solely at out-of-towners. Don't believe me?

Well how about this. Starting in March (to coincide with International Womens' Day on the 8th), these good folk will be hosting a gourmet dining/cookery event with couples in mind. The M.O is simple: after enjoying an aperitif, the pairs get split up. Ladies will then be in the company of

PHOTOGRAPH BY SHUTTERSTOCK

T

here aren’t many dates in the year as daunting as Valentine’s: if you’re single, welcome to the losers club, and with it the grim reminder you’re not Johnny Depp. If you’re paired off, then it’s not any better. In fact, that’s where the trouble really starts. Let’s face it, the days when a comedy card and a chocolate monkey did the trick are over. A cheeky gift just doesn’t cut the mustard.

Nowadays it’s all about making big gestures that cost big money – love hurts alright, it hurts the pockets. On top of that, it doesn’t help you’re in Warsaw – it’s certainly compelling and charismatic, but romantic? This place is as romantic as a badger’s bottom. And even more so in February, when going any further than your front door involves wading through soggy, sleety slurry. This is not, you'd agree, the sort of weather you'd consider proposing on a hot air balloon.

“ This promises to be heaps of fun, and a whole lot better than staying in with a take-away curry”

Andrzej, the sommelier, who'll take them on a champagne tasting tutorial – when and how to drink it, how to pour it etc. etc. The lads, meanwhile, will be segregated in the banqueting room, safe from harms way, where Chef Paweł will reveal the secrets of his trade. Afterwards, the couples with re-convene to taste the fruits of their partner's labors, before settling down for a seperate four course menu. Limited to ten couples, the price is all inclusive, and weighs in at a bargain zł. 195 per head. While they're planning to continue these courses on a monthly basis, book now at reception (tel. 22 531 6000) to ensure a place on the first.

SOMETHING SWEET

If the cookery course at La Regina is fully booked, panic not: instead, why not unleash your inner Willy Wonka at a candy making course in a fully functioning sweet emporium! Found on ul. Tamka 49 (www.manufakturacukierkow.pl), Manufaktura Cukierków offers winter workshops for a paltry fee of just zł. 5. Working alongside the professionals, you and your beloved will then learn how to make lollipops colored in every shade of Teletubby.

Don't expect the level of English to be Oxford class, and don't necessarily expect a sedate kid-free environment.

Even so, this promises to be heaps of fun, and a whole lot better than staying in with a take-away curry.

SOMETHING SAUCY

Warsaw's got a generous spread of adult stores to inject some oopmh into your life, but most are seedy haunts with creepy weirdos sneaking in and out of peep shows: memorable sure, nice – no. Fortunately, of late, there have been a couple of noteworthy shops that have opened for trade. First off, Horn & More (www.hornandmore.pl) on Chopina 5B is a high class store offering such items as Kama Sutra tea, sexy and exclusive scents and bathroom extras, jewelery and more playful pieces like handcuffs and whips. Do not think there's anything cheap and nasty here though, this is clearly a new breed of adult store, one with a more thoughtful side than, say, the shadowy parade of shops on Jana Pawła. And if you're single, ha, there's some stuff for you here as well! Namely, very arty erotica and photo albums that you won't have to hide if your ex springs a surprise visit. And it's not just H&More offering this sort of get-up. In the shape of Barbarella (ul. Marszałkowska 85, www.barbarella.pl), Warsaw has the kind of store that won't intimidate couples. It's certainly more racy than the aforementioned, but still very tasteful anda high-end choice for something with spice.

NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM

Curses! The moment we listed the Erotic Museum in the mag it bleeding well closed. A lack of funds, so they claim, though personally I'm inclined to view that as a self-inflicted wound. Charging a whopping zł. 35 for entrance is not going to get bodies through the door. I mean 35 zlots!? I expect the Louvres for that, not a Chinese contraption for selfgratification. Anyway, if you missed it first time round, they will be re-opening for one night on Feb. 14th. Whether it's at the original location or not has yet to be decided, so check their web (www.muzeumerotyki.com) for updates. And in fairness, it is actually worth a look. Among the items of interest, find pre-war pornogrpahy, ancient Roman erotica, fin-de-siecle condom machines and Eastern teapots with big phallic bits. By no means as smutty as it sounds.

GET HIGH

Like an awkward teenager, Warsaw continues to grow taller and taller. Most skyscrapers are out of bounds to anyone without a swipey key card and an office on Floor 35, but even so there are a couple of standouts where a romantic view can be found. The Panorama Bar on the top floor of the Marriott offers pedigree cocktails in classy surrounds far removed from its previous incarnation as a Dynasty backdrop. While nowhere near as high as the Marriott, Moonsfera to the north offers decent fusion fare with great panoramas of the city, while booking a night at the InterContinental is enough to gain you access to their top floor pool – the highest in Europe, so we're informed. If that's not enough, get higher still by hiring out a helicopter. Do so courtesy of easyair.pl, a company based not far out in Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki.

HORSE PLAY

Away from the slime and sludge of Śródmieście, why not swaddle yourself in (fake) furs and clamber into a horse-drawn carriage for a clip-clop through Old Town.

Find several droshky touting for business right outside the Royal Castle. Prices start from zł. 50 for a 20 minute ride, but do ask around. Alternatively, head to the forests that cloak Warsaw to travel through the woodland in sleighs (kuligs) pulled by big, shaggy ponies. It's a totally fantastic experience, and one made all the better for potential safari sightings of elk, lynxes and assorted fierce creatures. For the full kulig experience, most sleigh operators will include a bonfire and mulled wine for a small extra fee. For the basics though, you're looking at zł. 35-40 for one hour.

There's dozens of operators offering all this, though I can recommend Stajnia Ulmag (www.ulmag.com.pl). www.warsawinsider.pl

15

VALENTINE'S GETAWAYS

YOU NEVER TAKE ME ANYWHERE!

S

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o, you’re thinking of a last minute Valentine’s getaway are you? Well, the bad news is that the hoteliers of Paris and Venice are already rubbing their hands and fiddling the prices. Gits. Fortunately, there is Plan B, and by that I don’t mean the sketchy hipster bar on pl. Zbawiciela. What I mean is Poland, and the Poland that lies beyond the tried and tested options of Kraków and, errrm, Kraków and… Kraków. Covering all corners of the map, the country now boasts a generous spread of retreats that cater to all tastes – and pockets. Without further ado, here’s our Magnificent Seven:

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ILLUSTRATION BY MARYSIA MASTALERZ.

Sound familiar? Well that weary sound of nagging need never be a problem with our handy guide to Poland’s top weekend breaks. BY ALEX WEBBER

Left, Jaczno, secret and secluded, it's the nautral way to say: "I love you".

Bottom, Monopol, luxury living in a historic landmark.

JACZNO LODGE

Expect your bamboozled GPS to go into meltdown as you approach Jaczno. But don’t thump it, celebrate it. For this is the very reason to visit: isolated and serene, Jaczno is wild, unmapped Poland in its finest color. Set on the banks of a deep blue lake, find a collection of rough and rustic timber-hewn lodges, themselves hemmed against the water by a dense set of trees.

But don’t think you’ll be roughing it. Jaczno Lodge is the creation of an architect couple, and they’ve invested their energies designing the perfect retreat. Featuring heavy stone walls and thick wooden beams, the overwhelming sensation is of a fairytale cottage. In summer there’s oodles of outward bound stuff to activate the heart, but in winter it’s all about savoring the stillness: tramping around the snow-coated hills, before returning with rose red cheeks for a glass of mulled wine. And it’s at this point Jaczno really raises the game; settle in front of the fire, and retune yourselves with an organic spread of locally sourced food. Finish with a steamy bania and you’ll find the closest definition of absolute bliss. www.jaczno.com. Doubles from zł. 260. 250 km from Warsaw. Journey time approx. 4hrs 30 mins.

“ It's the perfect pampering experience with great escapist value”

MONOPOL HOTEL

Long before the Likus lads thought about turning Warsaw’s Wolf Bracka into a designer den you’d have found them transforming historic buildings into boutique hotels – like, for example, the Stary in Kraków (temporary home of the England team for Euro 2012). Wrocław, too, has been blessed with their magic, namely in the shape of the Monopol Hotel.

Not short on the aforementioned history, this neoBaroque creation first rose up in 1892, and has since hosted Garbo, Dietrich and Picasso – who painted ‘Dove of Peace’ while taking lodgings upstairs. Hitler (yes,

www.warsawinsider.pl

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VALENTINE'S GETAWAYS him again) famously made a fire and brimstone speech from a specially constructed balcony, while Zbigniew Cybulski – the ‘Polish James Dean’ – shot several movie scenes in its corridors and chambers. Allowed to slide into mediocrity by Orbis, Monopol has had a sprinkling of fairy dust courtesy of the Likus team, and now stands out as Wrocław’s premier hotel.

Mixing elements of old with new, this is designer living at its minimalist best. And with an excellent on-site spa and swimming pool, you may never want to step outside. But that’d be a mistake – hugging the perimeter of Old Town, the soaring spires and mist-cloaked alleys of Wrocław lie right on the doorstep. monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl. Doubles from zł. 550. 350 km from Warsaw. Journey time approx. 5hrs 30 mins.

RESZEL CASTLE Few moments top arriving in Reszel – hidden in the thick of Poland’s lake district, find this spooky red brick castle balanced on a rocky outcrop, looming with menace over the pocket-sized old town.

The chance to drive under a portcullis doesn’t present itself every day, and neither does the chance to stay in the company of Barbara Zdunk – the last European to be toasted for witchcraft and, according to a recent episode of Ghost Hunters International, the unhappy resident of Reszel’s crypt-like billiard room.

But it’s not all ghouls and ghosts. For the last couple of decades this red brick masterpiece has been in the care of local artist Bolesław Marschall, and he’s set about turning the place into a favorite retreat for Poland’s intelligentsia.

Rooms, some of them set in medieval towers, come scattered with his handmade furnishings (offsetting the tamer IKEA fixtures and fittings), with the one missing detail being a roaring fire (top tip: call ahead and tell them to whack the heating to max). A great weekend, as well as a brilliant bolt hole to explore the region – Hitler’s historic

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hideout, The Wolf’s Lair, is just thirty clicks away. www.zamek-reszel.com. Doubles from zł. 280. 235km from Warsaw. Journey time approx. 4hrs.

STARY MŁYN KLEKOTKI

With a former function as a 17th century water mill, Klekotki has a rambling rural style, with lots of creaking woods, rugs and bits of wrought iron. The standard rooms really are, standard that is, so why not splurge and upgrade to deluxe (the suite, even). A convincing personal touch is evident, and there’s plenty of quirky flurries to compliment the beamed ceilings and four poster beds. But as pleasant as the deluxe rooms are, it’s ‘the fireplace room’ which gets the most action in winter, and acts as a natural draw to the cluster of visitors.

And there are other strings to Klekotki’s bow: a top rated spa, for one, free-to-rent bicycles and idyllic gardens. All the more better, if you do pick February to visit then this part of the world looks stunning under snow – and looks even better when viewed while bouncing along on one of their dog sleds. www.hotelmlynklekotki.pl. Doubles from zł. 350. 280 km from Warsaw. Journey time approx. 4hrs 30 mins.

BLUE BEETROOT To make the most of the Blue Beetroot experience you’ll need a checklist of items: a reindeer jumper, some monster slippers and a heavy pile of books. It’s that sort of place – a home from home where days slip away in front of the hearth. The pace is slow – reassuringly so – and their web says it all: “Watch the world go by (mostly chickens and ducks).”

Set in a former 18th century barn, this outpost has been tenderly restored by a Pol/Brit couple. The results are impressive with period stonework and cross-timber touches. A triumph of Country Homes style, the contemporary fittings are tempered by traditional touches and the generous use of wood. As for the Beetroot bit of the name,

Left, haunted Reszel Castle is a magnet for artsy academics.

Opposite top, Stary Młyn Klekotki offers an idyllic backdrop for amorous encounters.

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that’s a nod to this barn’s former life – according to lore, local lads once distilled moonshine from beetroots down in the cellars.

And in the unlikely event you wish to stray outside, then surprise, surprise, the town of Bołesławiec is a box of delights – not least for its beautiful Rynek and trademark ceramics. And how cute is this: while hunting for a suitable by-line, the city Gods opted for, “Bolesławiec – the friendly city.” Bless! www.bluebeetroot.com. Doubles from zł. 260. 510 km from Warsaw. Journey time approx. 7hrs.

KANIA LODGE In 2011 Kania Lodge earned a place on the Andrew Harper list of the top 500 hotels in the world. Now that’s an achievement for any hotel, but when you consider Kania’s history that becomes all the more impressive. Initially launched as a small retirement project, this place has gone from strength to strength, so much so it’s become an open secret amongst Warsaw’s ex-pats.

Occupying a lakeside lodge, Kania is a boutique flourish amid the rolling hills of Kashubia – the kind of place where the phone goes to mute and the laptop stays off. Who needs them, after all, when you’ve got a vineyard to enjoy.

Yes, you read that right. Poland’s not known for its wine, but Kania is, and that’s down to proprietor John Borrell, a New Zealand native with a love of the grape. But it’s for his import goodies he’s primarily famed, and here you’ll find 250 wines from across the globe.

“One of the most outstanding restaurant wine lists in the world,” trumps Wine Spectator magazine, and you’ll probably agree. Not that that’s your only choice for pleasant intoxication. Both Borrell and son (his other boy being rock’n’roll wildman, Razorlight's Johnny Borrell), have launched a range of artisan vodkas that have taken the critics by storm. In fact, they’re so well regarded you’ll find them stocked in Poland’s best restaurant (see Eating Out: Atelier by Amaro). And putting the ‘eat’ in ‘retreat’, find home-reared lamb and other local produce on the menu.

But, before retiring upstairs (or their private cottage), allow ample time for lounging around while John regales you with stories from his days as a war correspondent for Time magazine. Now this, this is what hospitality is all about. www.kanialodge.com.pl. Doubles from zł. 320. 380 km from Warsaw. Journey time approx. 6hrs.

LE REGINA What do you mean you don’t fancy a five hour journey to the corner of nowhere? Well those wanting to stay on home turf don’t have far to look for something special. As the glittering skyline suggests, hotels in Warsaw have come a long way since the days of Ukrainian prostitutes lurking in the lobby touting for custom. All the five stars warrant their rating, though some stand out more than most. Memorable views come guaranteed from THE INSIDER'S TIP FOR THIS VALENTINE'S WEEKEND IS TO SLOW DOWN AND DISCOVER A SECRET SIDE TO POLAND - ONLY SEE THE BIG CITY IN THE REAR VIEW!

“ If you pick February to visit then this part of the world looks stunning under snow” Europe’s highest swimming pool in the InterContinental, while the art deco Rialto could have been created with The Great Gatsby in mind. For me though, if I was pushed to name one hotel for a Warsaw weekend break it’d be Le Regina.

Set down a quiet New Town street, this deluxe experience is the polar opposite of the cut and paste global chains that dominate the local hotel market. Featuring cloistered arches running down the façade, the lobby alone is classy but muted, and a pleasant departure from the bling-heavy look of so many five stars. Looking highly sophisticated, yet never showy, it’s a perfect pampering experience with great escapist value. Muffle up warm and ask reception to organize a horse and carriage for a sunset canter through the streets of old Warsaw. www.mamaison.com. Doubles from zł. 650. Journey time: a taxi from your place.

Warsaw Chopin Airport Marriott Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79

• Quick pick up and drop off • A selection of new cars that will impress • Affordable prices to match your budget • Friendly staff who willingly speak English • Special Valentine's weekend offer www.warsawinsider.pl

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VALENTINE GIFTS

CAN BUY ME LOVE

So what if your favorite restaurant is fully booked. Push the "I Love You" button this month with that special gift that says more than words...

3.

1.

2.

4.

6.

for him

5.

1. Dr. Dre Headphones available from Amazon.co.uk, zł. 1,560 2. Red Shirt available at Reykjavik District, zł. 349 3. Bracelet available at Reykjavik District, zł. 119 4. Nixon Watch available from Amazon.co.uk, zł. 240 5. Costes Oil for Body available at Horn & More, zł. 210 6. Felt Bikes available at Szurkowski Bike Shop, from zł. 1,200

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9.

8.

7.

10.

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WHERE'S THE LOVE Horn & More ul. Chopina 5B Hos&Me Mokotowska 63 Secret Life of Things ul. Próżna 18/20 Red Onion ul. Szpitalna 8a Reykjavik District 1500m2, ul. Solec 18 Szurkowski Bike Shop ul. Ciołka 35

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for her

13.

7. Nikon Coolpix Camera available from Amazon.co.uk, zł. 340 8. Ring from Ti Sento Milano available at Hos&Me, zł. 589 9. Love & Roll Chocolates available from Chocolissimo.pl, 23.90zł 10. Key Ring available at Red Onion Concept Store, zł. 39 11. Comme des Garcons Play Perfume available at Horn & More, zł. 360 12. Chantall Thomass Corset available at Horn & More, zł. 1,050 13. Mariage des Freres Fall in Love Red Tea available at Horn & More, zł. 90

www.warsawinsider.pl

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DRINKS

THE WAY VODKA WAS

If you could bottle the essence of the pre-war years, a time Poles look back upon with dreamy eyes, would it taste like J.A. Baczewski? BY KIT F. CHUNG

“ After a 72 year hiatus, J.A. Baczewski vodka returned to a warm homecoming”

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IMAGE THIS PAGE COURTESY OF J.A. BACZEWSKI, OPPOSITE PAGE, COURTESY OF KURYŁOWICZ & ASSIOCIATES

H

ad Woody Allen spun a yarn about “Midnight in Warsaw”, he would also have transported the characters back to the 1920’s in Poland. And their social drug would be J.A. Baczewski.

Erased from the map for 123 years, the Poland that reinstated its independence in 1918 was a place of giddy optimism. Black and white pictures from these times show sleek ladies and gentlemen at black-tie soirees enjoying the high life in a manner similar to the black tie shindigs of F. Scott Fitzgerald.

Even today, these brief golden years are pined for with a heavy tinge of nostalgia. Food tasted better, we're told, and there was a different eating out culture. “Before World War II, vodka was for Poles what espresso is for Italians,” says Paweł Gorczyca, the Managing Director of J.A. Baczewski in Poland. “People ate at a wyszynk where they ordered vodka to go with the food. Przekąski Zakąski is an example of a wyszynk. That was how Poles ate.”

“People then were used to high quality vodka. It was also for health reasons [to drink vodka] just in case the tartar wasn’t of ‘first freshness’, as we say it in Polish.

That’s just an excuse but any excuse is a good one,” laughs the slim-built, amicable vodka pusher.

Among the high-end producers was the family-run J.A. Baczewski, founded in 1782. After World War I, the facilities were modernized. The family had plants across Europe.

“Nine or ten, in countries from Austria to Romania,” confides Paweł. The one on Polish soil was in Lwów (in today’s Ukraine). J.A. Baczewski’s bottles were dispatched all over Europe, America and even as far as Australia. The good times, however, were interrupted by the war. After the conflict ended, the quality of Polish vodka plummeted like many things during the bad commie days. J.A. Baczewski would have been bumped off if not for the surviving family members who regrouped in Vienna to revive production in 1956. The company resumed sales to the US but Poland was a no-go zone.

After a 72 year hiatus, J.A. Baczewski returned in 2011 to a warm homecoming. “Try to find a good restaurant in Warsaw that doesn’t have J.A. Baczewski vodka,” challenges the man responsible for the repatriation. It’s not just its lineage that reads well but also what it is made of.

“Less than 3% of vodka in the world is made from potato.

Connoisseurs know potato vodka is better,” Paweł states.

However, there’s damage from the communist years to repair. “Poles who invented vodka think Scandinavian vodkas are better. Nine out of ten expensive vodkas in the shops are Scandinavian,” observes Paweł. “It’s as ridiculous as locals in Mexico drinking Dutch tequila.”

To savour vodka like it was done back in the glorious preWWII era, Paweł recommends drinking high quality vodka neat without the adulteration of coke or juices. “The taste is more full body, earthy, more aromatic,” he describes J.A. Baczewski’s characteristics. If you haven’t tried it, have one and see which belle époque it transports you to.

The Centre for European Studies is a branch of the Institute of European Studies at the Jagiellonian University. CES offers an MA in European Studies, a study abroad programme for undergraduates, several MA degree programmes coordinated in consortium with partner universities, and a Summer School.

WHY STUDY AT THE CENTRE FOR EUROPEAN STUDIES? EXCELLENT ACADEMICS At CES, we place high value on providing our students with access to the most dedicated professors, an extensive selection of courses and the best quality of education. Our committed teachers are experts in their respective fields, recognised all over the world for their academic work and their involvement in international research projects. Our course selection is interdisciplinary and allows students to tailor their studies to their needs and interests.

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UNIQUE CULTURAL AND LEARNING EXPERIENCES It is our priority to organise study trips so that students can experience the rich cultural life of Poland and Central and Eastern Europe and widen their knowledge of the political, economic and social realities of CEE countries.

Open lectures and workshops that feature internationally acclaimed scholars, writers and experts are also considered an important component of student life at CES. Students can learn about unique perspectives and cutting-edge theories from people working in the field.

TRY US OUT: CES SUMMER SCHOOL Looking to get a taste of what CES has to offer? Our 2012 Summer School programme entitled, “Central Europe: Unity in Diversity?� is a great way to do just that. Apply today!

For full information and details about the Centre for European Studies and all its programmes, please visit: www.ces.uj.edu.pl.

PLVS R ATIO

Q VA M V I S

EURO 2012 RUSSIA

THE RUSSIANS ARE COMING!

Seen as possible dark horses for the tournament, the Russian team arrive in Warsaw later this year with their eyes on Europe’s top football prize. BY ALEX WEBBER

H

aving lit up Euro 2008 with some thrilling football, Russia land in Poland with secret hopes to go two notches better than their semi final appearance in their last Euro outing. Having recovered from early setbacks in the qualifying phase, the Russians ended up storming their group. The side remains something of an enigma, however. Andrey Arshavin was one of the stars of Euro 2008, with a string of scintillating performances prompting rumors of an imminent move to Barcelona. Four years on and the mercurial playmaker has fallen from grace, in club terms anyhow. His form is key, as is that of youngster Alan Dzagoev. Even so, with canny Dutchman Dick Advocaat at the helm, and a seemingly watertight defence in their favor, the Russians won’t be in Poland to make up the numbers. What’s lacking, however, is a foolproof guide to advise the team in this alien land…

THE EMBASSY

It’s a shame the Championship is set for this summer – any later and the Russian team could really make themselves at home by bedding down in the former Soviet embassy.

Found on Poznańska 15, this 19th century tenement was sold to the Russkies in 1924, who then set about replacing the art nouveau details with the stern neo-classical elements so beloved in their doctrine. Functioning as the Soviet embassy till 1941, the hammer and sickles adorning the bas relief above the entrance were removed by the

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Nazis – other period flourishes remain however, and with a careful eye you’ll be able to discern workers and peasants captured in stone on the pillars and columns. In recent times the building took on a glum, grey look so familiar in Warsaw. Now though, it’s deep in the process of being turned into a luxury five star pad, with the restoration handed to the charge of Grzegorz Rygiel. Befitting of its history, the house drink is set to be the Molotov Cocktail: named in honor of the former embassy’s star guest.

WHERE TO STAY

As we prepared to go to press, the Russian football federation was hunched over in negotiation with the Bristol Hotel. This grand local artifact looks odds on to serve as the team digs, and the team will be keeping good company: as the name plaques by the reception attest, this is the haunt of the rich and richer – the Stones, Jackson, Nixon etc. etc. have all creeped through the corridors at one stage. Set behind an intricate wedding cake façade, this proud pre-war survivor has a deep classical look, and interiors that have kept a keen respect for history. As the lads on the team ponder pillow fights in the marble lobby, the question remains who will end up with the Paderewski suite – once home to the great composer/prime minister of the same name. Intriguingly, given Russia’s history of espionage, you’ll find the Bristol featuring in the books of Alan Furst: ‘The Spies of Warsaw’ for one.

cB ko an wy

Gone are the days when Warsaw could boast deluxe Russian restaurants like Tsarina and Caryca. Even so, the squad always have the option of block booking Babooshka (www.babooshka.pl), a Russkie eatery with a heavy peasant accent. Featuring classic servings of stomach blocking stodge, the menu here is all about delicious pielmieni (Russian pierogi, sort of), and other Russian classics that break dietary rules. Balalaikas and accordions are on hand to get the party started.

Pla

EATING OUT

AFTER THE MATCH

If the team slip their minders they could do worse than ending up in Capitol. Aside from gazing at indulgent interiors that look like they were funded by a bank heist, the players can concern themselves by busting some funky uncle few dance moves to DJs like Chris Jaxxx. While they shouldn’t have any probs sashaying past face control, if they do find themselves stuck in the queue then they may take note of the cool commie murals by the entrance.

Crane your neck to make out one of the few hammer and sickles that remain in the public domain.

PHOTOGRAPHS OPPOSTE SHUTTERSTOCK, THIS PAGE TOP TWO BY KEVIN DEMARIA, BOTTOM PIOTR PIWOWARSKI, EAST NEWS

VODKA

Adding animosity to Polish-Russo relationships is of course the million rouble question: “who invented vodka?” It’s not an argument we’re qualified to settle, though any drinkers among the Russian team can argue the toss among the hipsters who hang in Warsaw’s premier vodka bar: Czysta Ojczysta. Hidden in the guts of the former Koneser Vodka Factory (ul. Ząbkowska 27/31), this cool warehouse space has an emphatic choice of world vodka that’s enthusiastically enjoyed by fashion-focused locals.

The neo-gothic factory, incidentally, originally opened with Warsaw’s Tsarist garrison in mind – it fell to them to supply Russian troops with their daily allowance of vodka.

From Top: Hidden commie icon at the Capitol Club, Former Soviet Embassy on Poznańska, Four Sleepers hibernate.

TAXI!

Don’t get into one is my advice to our visiting comrades.

That’s not through any worry of being ripped off, but simply down to the alternative – hiring Stalin’s limo! Highlights in Warsaw’s Car Museum (www.muzeum-motoryzacji.com. pl) include the very motor that was once used to ferry this nasty piece of work. The museum rents loads of its props and vehicles (primarily to film crews, such as the one filming Polanski’s The Pianist), and while I trust they wouldn’t usually hire out Uncle Joe’s babe magnet, I reckon they’d make the exception for the Russian national team.

“ If the team slip their minders they could do worse than ending up in Capitol”

SLEEP

Known as ‘the four sleepers,’ Warsaw’s monument of gratitude to the Red Army is currently out of action. Once positioned on the crossroads of Solidarności and Targowa, the sculpted soldiers have been taken down while this section of town is bulldozed for the new metro. Following a bit of TLC, you’ll find this monument of brotherly love reappearing sometime soon on pl. Wileński. And why the ‘sleepers’ tag? Some say it’s because of the dozy downward expression on the soldiers. We reckon it probably more to the fact the Soviets parked up on this side of river and fell asleep while the Nazis finished off the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. You be the jury.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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WINTER SPORTS

PRANCING ON ICE

W

inter in Warsaw isn't all doom and gloom.

For starters, there's the chance of dressing in rainbow-colored outfits and partaking in some seasonal sports. Now last issue you'd have found me on the ski slopes of Warsaw, watching with awe as geriatics launched themselves off ski jumps. This time round, however, it's the turn of something more conventional, something most of us can enjoy without signing life insurance documents: ice skating.

This, I must confess, is the one winter sport I really enjoy, and for the simple reason that it is the only winter sport I’m actually any good at. This is mainly due to the fact I spent a lot of time at the local rink in my youth trying (sometimes successfully) to pull the girls from my school who liked to go there at weekends. But needs must as they say.

My first quandary though was where to go, with plenty of good options available. Arguably Warsaw’s best indoor ice rink is Torwar II which is located on ul. Łazienkowska, just opposite Legia Warszawa’s Pepsi Arena (their name, not mine). Open all year round except June and July, Torwar has a full-size rink measuring 30m by 60m and is the perfect place to get in some skating practise. However, given that Torwar II is only open to the public for 90 minutes on Thursday and Saturday and three hours on Sunday, due to classes or sports training, it’s not the easiest place to visit.

That’s why I decided to go for the more historic setting of the rink just by the city’s most controversial landmark – the Palace of Culture. Many locals, particularly those of an older generation are not fond of Stalin’s “present” to the city, but for me whether it involves watching a movie

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at Kinoteka, having a drink in Kulturalna or just looking at the capital’s skyline – the Palace is arguably my favourite place in Warsaw.

The ice rink is located on the Świętokrzyskia side of the Palace and although admittedly smaller than Torwar II, it is open 8am-8pm Monday to Thursday, and 8am-9pm Friday to Sunday, so you’re guaranteed to be able to find a time to go. Added to that it only costs zł.7 for an hour, so it’s about the cheapest outdoor fun you can possibly have, short of finding a bottle of vodka poking out of a bin.

My own trip there on an icy cold Saturday morning in December was particular enjoyable as there were only about 20 other people skating at that same time, so there was plenty of room for me to get used to it again after a few years off. Before long I was twisting and twirling like a young Christopher Dean, and with some classic 80’s anthems from Erasure booming over the sound system it was like being a kid again – yay!

The other people present on the day were a mixed bunch, with an older bearded gentlemen with battered skates pulling off some tricky backwards manoeuvres and a girl who looked to be about ten flying around like a professional while also doing a couple of natty pirouettes.

But in general it was a cross-section of average (and not so good skaters), so even a beginner can feel at home.

After about 45 minutes I was thoroughly exhausted so I nipped around to the other side of the Palace to partake in some festive good cheer and got myself a mulled wine and some bigos – an added bonus that you won’t get at the capital’s other rinks.

PHOTOGRAPH BY SHUTTERSTOCK

Open to all talents, you don't need a figure like a pin and a sequinned leotard to enjoy Warsaw's ice rinks BY DAVE INGHAM

EATING OUT Restaurants, Cafes & Wine Bars SECTIONS African. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

American & Tex-Mex . . . .

Asian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Balkan & Russian. . . . . . .

British. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cafes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

French. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Greek/Middle Eastern. . .

Indian. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

THIS MONTH:

* 7 updates

RATINGS p.39 p.39 p.39 p.41 p.41 p.28 p.41 p.41 p.43

International & Fusion. . .

Italian. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Japanese & Sushi. . . . . . .

Latin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Polish. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Seafood. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Wine Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Food Shops. . . . . . . . . . . .

p.44 p.49 p.51 p.52 p.34 p.52 p.32 p.52

The following symbols (A1) map location are a rough indicator ideal for business as to how much you meetings can expect to pay for take a date a main course.

child friendly $ mains under

vegetarian friendly zł. 30

delivery $$ mains breakfast menu

zł. 30-55

free wifi available $$$ mains zł. 55+ BOW 2011 Best of Warsaw Award Winner

Insider’s Pick HOT FIND

Atelier by Amaro ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747 (bookings essential), http://atelieramaro.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00; Mon-Sat 18:00-22:30.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF ATELIER BY AMARO

I

“ This isn’t just the best restaurant I’ve visited in Warsaw, it’s the best restaurant I’ve visited – period”

need to make an apology. In a recent Insider newsletter I made the mistake of announcing Atelier to be good. Stupid me. Atelier isn’t good, and neither should you think of it as so. The word good doesn’t do it justice. I’m not sure any word does. You see, this isn’t just the best restaurant I’ve visited in Warsaw, it’s the best restaurant I’ve visited – period. And don’t just take my word for it, heed the word of celebrated foodie, Nigel Slater: “The most extraordinary meal of the trip,” or so gushed The Guardian’s gastro guru. Not that you’ll find any of the team here referring to this as a restaurant. Look hard, and look harder still, and you’ll find no mention at all of the word beginning with ‘r’.

“I prefer to think of this as a culinary workshop,” says chef Wojciech Modest Amaro, “a place where things are created; where nature meets science.” It’s a philosophy that’s reflected in the menu. Having served his time as front man of Amber Room, Amaro took 18 months out to travel Poland searching and sourcing the finest ingredients. The result is a menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques (blasts of nitrogen, for instance), with each course interspersed with complimentary, and occasionally bizarre, molecular interludes – you bet your life I wasn’t expecting to be served a fizzy aloe leaf.

Guests choose from meals delivered in three, five and eight ‘moments’. As first timers, myself and the Princess opted for the ‘five moment menu’ (zł. 220), a culinary experience which started strongly and ended in fireworks. Everything from the tastes to the textures were innovative and exceptional, and while it’d be wrong to pick a highlight the sea bass was one, and the wild hare another.

But then so was the deer tartar. And the juniper ice cream was out of this world.

Put simply, food will never taste the same again.

Neither is this place intimidating – lacking the indulgent bluster of Poland’s top restaurants, this place is chic and elegant, yet in a muted, understated manner. Not once did I feel out of place (in spite of Polish film star Krzysztof Kowalewski sitting right behind), and that’s as much to the credit of the staff as it was to the surrounds. And with Chef Amaro making a string of surprise table-side appearances I did, for a minute, feel like a celeb myself. Say it quietly, but this is Michelin star stuff. (AW)

www.warsawinsider.pl

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EATING OUT cafés

*

5.29 ul. Krucza 51 (corner of Widok). Open Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Stuffed in an area of 5.29 sq/m, here’s a candidate for Poland’s smallest café. Maybe the world’s. But there’s not just great espresso to knock back while standing, but a great oven knocking out foccacias, bagels and fresh French pastries.

Antrakt (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 827 6411.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. Intellectuals and playwrights gather in Antrakt, a quirky cafe that groans with antiques and artwork.

The presence of the theater next door keeps the IQ level high.

Amor (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17, tel. 22 825 0036, www.czekoladziarniaamor.pl. Open Sun-Mon 12:00-21:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-21:00; Fri 10:0022:00; Sat 11:00-22:00. Chocoholics beware!

One step inside this chocolate parlor is all it takes to become a lifelong fan. Definitely no place for those on a diet, no matter what the light salads and fresh soups may suggest.

Batida (multiple locations) ul. Królewska 2, tel. 22 826 4474, ul. Przy Lasku 2 (Wola), ul. Marszałkowska 53, ul. Przejazd 6, pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, www.batida.com.pl. Open daily 9:00-21:00.

A café, upscale delicatessen and cake shop with traditional Polish elegance. Excellent cakes and nibbles.

Bily Konicek Café (C3) National Ethnographic Museum, ul. Kredytowa 1, tel. 696 490 846. Open daily 9:00-20:00. Stylish décor, brilliant lattes, delicious meringues, fresh pies and home-baked oatmeal cookies, this is a great place for a sweet bite on a rainy day.

Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest.

Brilliant traditional desserts in a historic location that has a history that spans over a century of fine pastry-making. Also stop by the next-door deli for specialty goods.

Bookhousecafé (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 826 8559.

Open daily 7:30-23:00. Great sandwiches, pastries, custom-brewed coffees and over a dozen varities of tea in a bookish interior that is intellectual in spirit.

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Cafe Borgia (H4) ul. Francuska 50, tel. 22 468 8554. Open 9:00-21:00. Instantly loveable, the downtown cafe branch of the eminent Balgera racks up points for a completely brilliant collection of cakes and desserts. Substantials like freshlymade pasta also available inside relaxed, whitewashed interiors.

Café 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00.

Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; still very much the choice haunt for the in-team. BEST WAWA 2011 “Cafe Culture” Winner Cafe Colombia (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, www. colombiabar.pl. Open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Filled with bright, primary colors and plenty of armchairs, this two level cafe follows a simple formula. Downstairs, it’s Colombia’s finest (coffee), upstairs it’s cocktails – and very tasty they are. And just to make sure they’ve got all hours covered, there’s food to enjoy either side of your beverages: barramundi, flame-grilled Argie steak etc.

Café Lemon Bar (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 6, tel. 22 829 5544, www.cafelemon.pl. Open daily 24hr. Eight years old and counting, Lemon’s greatest glory are their open hours – non-stop.

For an early dawn after-party comedown, this citrus-colored cafe ticks the box, and isn’t so bad during the day when large, airy windows ensure maximum opportunity for people gazing.

Café Melon (Praga) ul. Inżynierska 1. Open daily 9:00-19:00.

This chic little café is an extension of the Melon photo studio located on the property. Here you can have a cup of gourmet tea or coffee and whole-grain cookies while enjoying the art on display.

Mounted photos taken by some of Poland’s young photographers are on sale.

Café Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 22 620 3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:00-

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23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00. Ignoring the fact that most of this street looks ready to fall down, the artsy-looking Próżna comes with a chic, ice white look, and a stack of hard-back tomes to compliment the homemade desserts. Even better at night, when soaked in the glow of dozens of candles.

Café Roskosz ul. Wiolinowa 2a, tel. 22 111 5015, www.caferoskosz.pl. Open 10:00-20:00.

Ursynów is a bit of a dead end when it comes to social life, so a big welcome to Roskosz, a cool café with retro interiors that scream ’80s Eastern Bloc. Decorated with chunky phones and primary colors it’s a cheeky look at the good ole’ days.

Café Rue de Paris (Saska Kępa) (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 617 8773, www.ruedeparis.eu. Open Mon-Fri 8:0021:00, Sat- Sun 7:30-22:00. A favorite rendez-vous spot for all the French- speaking folk dwelling the area. Salads, quiches and pancakes as well as fresh pastries baked on the premises.

Café Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115.

Open daily 6:30-24:00. A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from almond croissants to delicate brioches.

Caffe Balgera (C6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 629 0189. www.balgera.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. The breakfast menu here is simple but sweet and there’s great upscale café fare here all day long.

Caffetino (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 32, tel. 22 624 0196.

Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0021:00. Located near the Palace of Culture, Caffetino serves mainly Italian cuisine: their pastas are truly excellent. Besides pasta, their specialities include delicious Italian coffees – with some interesting twists, such as the latte with honey and very tasty desserts.

Cava (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, tel. 22 826 6427. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00.

Złote Tarasy (C4), ul. Złota 59, www.cava.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00. A prime spot on Nowy Świat’s red carpet keeps business brisk in this high-end cafe. Premium Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee available,

CAFÉS and best enjoyed on a seasonal terrace that can barely be bettered.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 10:00-last guest. Dreadlocks and piercings are the favored attire in Chłodna, one of the last bastions of beatnik chic this side of the Wisła. Here it’s all sunken sofas and chipped wood tables inside a soothing environment celebrated for its experimental sounds and anti-establishment vibe.

Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, www.coffeekarma.eu. Open Mon-Fri 7:3022:00; Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00.

Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. But to see Coffee Karma at her best, wait for the spring terrace.

Czaji Bar Herbaciarnia (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7101.

Open daily 9:00-23:00. With a sumptuouslydecorated interior – think elegant, creamcolored and flouncy French queen’s private chambers – and beautifully-trained staff, Czaji Teahouse is a must-visit at any time of day.

Czarny Motyl (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 2, tel. 608 680 964, www.czarnymotyl.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An intriguing cross between a chilledout bar and a cafe, this is a good spot to grab a light meal, a pre-party drink or postwork sheesha.

Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Dobra 31, tel. 22 826 3294, www.czulybarbarzynca.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. A very charming bookstore and café in one.

Delikatesy Bracia Gessler (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Great sandwiches, cakes

and pastries from the Gessler dynasty.

Columned, imperial interiors add a swish look to this Royal Route stalwart. Order at the street side hatch for a take-away lunch.

Fiku Miku Café (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 32. Open 10:00-19:00.

A kid-friendly café filled with stuffed animals and wooden toys. The menu is a good, simple affair that involves shakes and smoothies, salads, quiche and slim line cakes.

Filtry Café (A6) ul. Niemcewicza 3, tel. 798 409 356, www.filtrycafe.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00. Filtry Cafe’s got great coffee, fruit shakes, cakes, and light breakfasts combined with a funky atmosphere that attracts art lovers.

Flora Caffe (E7) Al. Ujazdowskie 4, tel. 607 232 642.

Open daily 10:00-20:00. Just outside the Botanical Gardens, this half café and half nursery serves teas, smoothies and sweet treats. Also open in chillier weather.

www.warsawinsider.pl

>>

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EATING OUT >> Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30. Open daily 8:00-22:00.

An attractive modern café in the heart of Saska Kępa with an artsy feel. A large selection of coffee drinks as well as teas, complemented by a choice of pastries, muffins and simple Italian dishes at affordable prices.

a selection of coffee drinks, shakes, snacks and pastries. Watch out, the ‘large’ coffee is actually huge!

Kawka Bar Kawowy (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, tel. 22 621 6557, www.kawka.pl. Open Mon-Wed 9:00-22:00; Thur-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. With 30 varieties of coffee (and a nice tea selection for you non-coffee types), Kawka brews up great java in a pleasant setting.

Garaż Café (Wilanów) ul. Pastewna 25, tel. 22 858 2693, www.garaz-cafe.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:30; Sat 13:00-21:30; Sun 13:00-17:30.

It’s exactly what it sounds like: a café in a Kępa Café (G3) renovated garage. But the fresh, substantial ul. Finlandzka 12a, tel. 22 616 1225, salads and rich pastas win it a real thumbs-up. www.kepacafe.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0022:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00. A beatnik café Haagen Dazs (D4) that attracts the artists, writers and free wi-fi ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 826 3052. Open addicted inhabitants. Just the place if you’re 10:00-20:00. While Starbucks have struggled craving coffee or tea from exotic corners of the to replicate their Western form, Haagen Dazs world, or just seeking a peaceful escape from haven’t. The mango sorbet is out of this world, all the city buzz. albeit served inside generic, showroom interiors.

Kolonia (B7) Herba Thea (C8) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), ul. Bruna 20, tel. 22 825 8814, tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota.pl. www.herbathea.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri Open daily 10:00-20:00. Equipped with 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00. Just a a garden/playground, Kolonia is the most 5 minute walk from Pole Mokotowskie, off kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the of Al. Niepodległości, this cosy teahouse area, offering fresh daily specials. houses a gallery and hosts live music and workshops on the weekends.

Kredkafe (E6) al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561, Kafka Café (E3) www.kredkafe.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00. ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822, The interiors look great, bright and cheerful www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri with cute cartoon sketches and an entire 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toplayroom complete with toys, stuffed animals ceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves where the kids can put on puppet shows. characterize this café hotspot. They serve Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty facilities. The brainchild of two women with of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free experience in hospitality and pedagogy, interiors and attitude-free waitresses. $ part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space.

Kalimba (Żoliborz) ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 22 869 9784, La Vanille (D5) mob. 502 669 376, www.kalimba.pl. Open ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, www.

Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat & Sun 10:00-20:00. lavanille.pl. Open 8:00-20:00. In much the Kalimba is a café designed specifically with same way Charlotte is so much more than a little ones in mind. A cross between a gummy bakery, La Vanille is definitely more than your candy counter café and toy shop, it’s a standard confectioners. Thick with the scent wonderland for kids. of icing sugar, it looks sharp and sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship Kawiarnia Ogrody (D2) grey sofas. But it’s the counter that acts as a ul. Mariensztat 21A, tel. 22 826 2898, magnetic force, and it’s here you’ll find fantaswww.kawiarniaogrody.pl. Open Mon-Fri tic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out 8:00-22:00, 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-20:00. in precise military formation. The coffee is The black and white decor manages to pretty good and all. strike a perfect balance between grungy and chic. Kawiarnia Ogrody is located on the Le Chocolat (D5) beautiful, old-timey Mariensztat, and serves ul. Żurawia 26, tel. 22 745 1071,

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www.lechocolat.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. This chic emporium is the realisation of one couples desire to offer top-quality chocolates that challenge the palate of the discerning fan. Inspired by the chocolate boutiques of Paris, over twenty different brands from a dozen countries are available. Handmade pralines and truffles, displayed almost like jewels, come in a rainbow of fillings, from coconut to cherries, mint to almonds.

Leniviec (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 22 350 77 77. Finally open, and further evidence that the Wilcza/ Poznańska crossroad might, just might, become the next big thing. Touting themselves as a place for ‘coffee and culture’ we’ll be back next month to see if they walk the walk.

Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders.

Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired influenced by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for estoreric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards.

Mam Ochotę ul. Grójecka 75, tel. 22 667 8280, mamochote. blogspot.com. Open 9:00-24:00. A hip haven in an upcoming area this café gets cool concerts and other such events. And unlike most cafés in its genre, you don’t get the impression you’ll catch fleas from the seats.

Attractive light woods and guest artwork keep this place looking fresh and fun.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com, tel. 22 828 5417. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. One of Warsaw’s enduring legends, and as popular at night as it is during the day; media types love it, and you’ll find them pecking on quesadilla type snacks inside a hip, white interior.

Ministerstwo Kawy ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 512 091 840, www.ministerstwokawy.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Were it not for the fact MK opened after voting had closed, you’d have bet your bottom zlot this would have romped home with our ‘best café’ award. Decorated sparingly with white

CAFÉS wall tiles and wooden floors, this newbie numbers some ace fruit drinks amongst its greater glories. Find a painfully in vogue crowd comparing boutique buys over gourmet coffee.

café is a relatively new arrival, and as one of the only truly kid-friendly locales in the neighborhood, it’s a welcome addition. Has WiFi, a cheerful air and a menu of soups, bruschetta and gourmet coffee.

MiTo ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 2 629 0815, www. mito.art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; 9:0023:00. Café, gallery, bookstore. Sure, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by modern art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel. See and be seen – preferably, with a silk scarf and iPad.

My Baby Café ul. Nowoursynowska 147, tel. 22 412 5594, www.mybabycafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, Sun 12:00-20:00. A bright and airy café serving good food and great coffee at reasonable prices. Downstairs is the Holy Grail – shiny new toys, a mini kitchen for the girls, a tool bench for the boys, and a large playhouse (real doorbell and all!). They even provide a nanny at no extra cost! Paradise for kids and heaven for Mums.

Mood Café (D10) Al. Niepodległości 80 (Ogród building), tel. 22 898 3003. Open daily 10:00-21:00.

Adjacent to a restaurant with a mainly Italian menu, this café has all the necessary caffeine options. Their banana and caramel cake is a must!

Mokotowska 22 ul. Mokotowska 22, tel. 22 622 0689, www.mokotowska-22.pl. Open 7:30-22:00.

Ignoring the rather lame name (come on, get creative eh...), 22 features soft, coffee-colored chairs, zappy, innovative art and an undefeatable selection of lattes. It works on every level, and is a great alternative to braying, boasting Charlotte down the road.

Mucha nie siada (Praga) ul. Ząbkowska 38, tel. 501 620 669.

Open daily 10:00-22:00. This friendly little

Lunch time

Take-away option

Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D3) Nowy Świat 63, tel. 22 505 6696, www.nowywspanialyswiat.pl. Open 11:00last guest. All life is here, from environmental radicals to theater bigwigs, and while it helps to look like a political activist, it’s become increasingly popular with the more standard Nowy Świat crowd. Lectures, DJs, exhibitions and screenings mean no night is the same.

Pędzący Królik (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 826 0245. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00, Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:0023:00. Could Pędzący Królik be any more charming? It’s got a gorgeous view of the Theater Square and great desserts. Indulge in a carafe of the reasonably-priced house red and enjoy the great food and service.

Cocktails

Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30.

An attractive Saska café decked with pale white colors, and steel lights overhead.

Service can be frustrating, and some call the food overpriced, factors which are offset by a high street location: perfect for a spot of people watching.

Saint Honore (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 20/22, tel. 508 143 987, ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers), www.saint-honore.pl.Open 8:00-21:00. Accept no imitation, here’s the best bakery around.

And aside from fresh baguette sandwiches, find authentically French cakes, croissants and pastries. No piekarnia can come even close.

Same Fusy (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, tel. 22 635 9014, www.samefusy.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

A must for café junkies. There are over 100 teas (ranging from the tame to the bizarre) to choose from.

Sklep z Kanapkami (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 11. Open Mon- Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. A big selection of hot and cold sandwiches served on tasty, filling ciabatta bread to eat in or take out. Also soups, salads, pierogi, fresh juices, and even muesli. The prices are very reasonable for this neck of the woods.

Słodki… Słony (D6) ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. 22 622 4934. Open

Quality

>>

Book parties with us

www.paparazzi.com.pl ul. Mazowiecka 12

www.warsawinsider.pl

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EATING OUT >> Mon 11:00-24:00; Tue.-Sun 10:00-24:00.

Sumptuously designed by Magda Gessler, Poland’s alpha restaurateur, the place has a homely, distinctly feminine feel. Recommended are the intensively creamy pistachio pie and Pavlova, as well as a small selection of equally delectable main courses.

Szpilka (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 22 628 9132.

Open 24hrs. The days when Szpilka stood on the leaderboard of nightlife are long gone, but that’s not to say it’s not worth dropping in. The food osciallates in quality, but the location alone attracts a healthy stream of cafe hoppers and pub crawlers.

Starbucks (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 62 (check website for other locations), tel. 22 829 4021, www.starbucks.pl. Open Mon-Thur 7:3021:30; Fri-Sat 7:30-23:00; Sun 9:00-21:30.

It had to happen. The Starbucks invasion is well under way. First it was Nowy Świat, now the rest of Warsaw is under attack.

Decent coffee, but it’s yet to entirely imitate the standards they’re known for.

Steff Cafe (F6) ul. Jazdów 1, tel. 507 286 136. Open Sun-Thurs 10:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00. An intellectual looking cafe in one of the outbuildings

by Zamek Ujazdowski. A limited selection of drinks and snacks is offset by a horizontal atmosphere and an adjoining bookstore filled with arty, coffee table tomes.

Tel Aviv (D5) ul. Poznańska 11, tel. 22 621 1128, www.tel-aviv.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:30-22:00; Fri 8:30-midnight; Sat 10:00-midnight; Sun 10:00-22:00. One high-profile Jewish visitor described the food as ‘vile’. So maybe leave the humus to others, enjoy instead a cool, indigo-colored, pop-art style space with Israeli music and hard-to-find beers.

To Lubię (C1) ul. Freta 10, tel. 22 635 9023, www.tolubie.pl.

Open daily 10:00-22:00. The perfect place (with loads of charm and wonderful owners) to spend hours with friends while working your way through their delicious menu. The basket of cookies comes highly recommended.

Tok Café (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 621 7799, www.tokcafe.pl. Open daily 7:00-22:00.

Perfect music for Monday mornings. Great sandwiches, salads, hot meals and a mouth-

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watering selection of goodies for your sugar fix. Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 831 3443, TUTU Music Bar (Ursynów) www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat Al. KEN 95, tel. 22 251 3274, www.tutu.waw.pl. 12:00-midnight; Sun 13:00-17:00. Located Open daily 13:00-last guest. TUTU Music just outside the Old Town, this minimalist Bar is the first smooth jazz bar in Warsaw’s wine bar is a great place for a date. Wines Ursynów district. Its name comes from the from top European makers are impressive album that Miles Davis recorded in the and the prices are very decent.

80’s with Polish jazzman Michał Urbaniak.

Esencja Smaku (D9) Vespa Café (D6) ul. Odolańska 10, tel. 22 845 0944, ul. Armii Ludowej 14 (PWC building), www.esencjasmaku.pl. A small bistro chartel. 22 825 5775. Open Mon-Fri 7:30-19:00. acterized by a casual décor and a laid-back A chic, comfortable, sexy space inspired atmosphere. Includes a seasonal by 60’s Italy in the lobby of the PWC office menu of light dishes. building. Unlimited free internet access and plenty of sockets make this the ideal spot Guccio Domagoj (Żoliborz) for a mobile office. ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 392 7438, www.winachorwackie.pl. Open Tues-Sun Wrzenie Świata (E4) 12:00-22:00. A sweet and intimate little place ul. Gałczyńskiego 7, tel. 22 828 4998. run by a charismatic Croatian, who stocks a Open daily 9:00-22:00. This café/bookshop huge variety of wines from his homeland. Very doubles as the events room for the Institute reasonably priced. of Reportage, so it’s scant surprise to learn the regulars are armed to the teeth with noteJoseph’s books and macs. Buzzing like a cafe should, it Wine & Food packs out for slideshows and seminars. ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, Żywiciel (Żoliborz) www.josephwinebar.pl. pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 322 8228, Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This newly- www.zywiciel.pl. Open daily 9:00-23:00. opened restaurant, bar and wine shop features This hipster café has gained a solid following great atmosphere and amiable staff. Don’t thanks to its broad menu of breakfast choices. come here for a quick dinner. Instead, come Casual, relaxing atmosphere, enhanced by the here to drink the wine and savor the rich and art hanging on Żywiciel’s brick walls. inventive meals. Service is slow, but rightly so, leaving guests with just enough time to regain their appetite for seconds. Being firmly tucked away from the center in a renovated factory C.K. Oboźna Cafe Bar (E3) allows you to easily whittle away the hours. ul. Oboźna 9, tel. 22 826 8317. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-last guest; Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun Jung & Lecker (C5) 10:00-last guest. This slick wine bar just off ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, Krakowskie Przedmieście has plumped up its www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri offer with all day breakfasts (zł. 9.90, coffee 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine or tea included) happy hours (12:00-16:00, bar on ul. Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, 19:00-22:00) and sports broadcasts. Great, café-style chic. The locale offers daily specials simple food and excellent wines from Austria that feature two four-course menus. The and beyond. shops’ wines are sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, RheinhesCharlotte (D6) sen, Rheingau and Mosel regions. pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open Mon- Fri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00La Passion du Vin (C4) 22:00. Further proof of Zbawiciela’s rising ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0495, star is Charlotte, a trendy boulangerie/wine www.winnica.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; bar. With seating spilling out underneath Sun 10:00-20:00. Located in the Złote Tarasy the colonnades outside, this was easily the shopping center, this chic wine bar features hit of the summer. Pandering to the hipsters wines from France, South America, Israel, Italy and trendies, you’d expect this sort of place and Australia. Sample some fine wine or treat in Hoxton, London. BEST WAWA 2011 yourself to the buy-one-get-one-free-lunch deal “Newcomer & People Watching” Winner accompanied by a perfectly-matched wine. >>

wine bars

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EATING OUT >> Magazyn Butelek (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 412 3124.

Open noon-last guest. Sample wine from various regions in this laid-back wine joint. Treat yourself to some lunchtime specials or nibble on some generously portioned pincho and tapas. Great Argentine beef and international specialties.

Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Some call it the best wine bar in Warsaw, others the best in Poland. Either way, this place hits the right notes with a wonderfully simple gourmet

menu, old and new world wines and a chic warehouse design filled to bursting with crates and boxes.

Vinoteka 13 + Wine Bar (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7407, www.vinoteka13.pl.

Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This premium wine shop and bar is tucked away in the beautiful Likus Concept Store. It sports a wide selection of fine wines from Italy, France, Austria and Spain, along with some stronger spirits and Cuban cigars at a varied price range. Also serves a tasting menu of cheeses and deli meats.

Vintage (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, www.korkociag.pl, tel. 22 625 4197. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 14:00-last guest. Korkociąg is now Vintage – the décor is slightly gaudy but the impressive Hungarian wine list has stretched to include great (though pricey) selections from the rest of Europe.

Second Look

Winiarnia Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 2327, www.winiarnia-kotlownia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Bricks and girders lend a factory feel, while an Italian influenced menu poses plenty of dilemmas. Sunshine pours in through huge vertical windows, bathing this wine kingdom in plenty of light.

polish

Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E5)

Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.kprb.pl/amber. Open for lunch Mon-Fri >>

Le Cedre al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl. Open 11:00-23:00.

“ Presenting an array of eastern thrills and tastes, the grilled, skewered meats are good, and occasionally sensational”

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ot many restaurants have lived as long as Le Cedre, but then not many deserve to. Celebrating their fifteenth year of operation, it’d be wrong to think of this as some tired old timer. Those fifteen years have seen three refits, the latest leaving it with an extravagant look reminiscent of a Bedouin tent: filled with jewel colored drapes and plump satin cushions, one imagines Lawrence of Arabia would certainly have approved.

Even so, it’s not aesthetics that have contributed to their longevity, rather a voluminous menu rated as one of the best Lebanese in the region – and I don’t mean Mazowia, I mean Central Eastern Europe. Presenting an array of eastern thrills and tastes, the grilled, skewered meats are good, and occasionally sensational. However, I myself don’t tend to get that far. I’m a creature of habit you see. The sort of guy who, on discovering something he likes, spends the rest of his life eating nothing else. In Le Cedre’s case that’s the mezze, the hot/cold starters that account for approx. 40 items on the menu.

Warmth and generosity are hallmarks of Lebanon, and to see how that’s reflected in the food I recommend splitting the Baalbak (six cold starters) or the Byblos menu (six hot starters). Or, for that matter, one of their group menus tailor-made for two to seven people. Aside from giving you a candid A-Z of this exotic cuisine, it’s a great opportunity to cover the tables in fancy little dishes, before causing a right mess amongst you as you share and share alike.

There’s something intensely social, intimate, not to say fun, about eating with your hands, and it’s best done between partners or a good group of friends.

Picking the aforementioned is just perfect for that.

That said, don’t think this team eating lark is all peace and love. Over the years I’ve acquired a strong bond with tabolleuh, the parsley-based national dish, and I’ve been known to resort to shady tactics to claim the lion’s share.

No-one, you see, get’s between me and my tabolleh. And it’s not just this little beaut that scores high on my scale. The ousmallieh is the weirdest, nay ugliest, dessert I’ve seen in Warsaw. It’s also one of the best, and a champion custardy conclusion to your evening out the house. (AW)

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PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF LE CEDRE

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EATING OUT >> 12:00-15:00, Dinner Mon-Fri 18:00-22:00, Sat 19:00-22:30 The Amber Room is situated in a spectacular residence in the Pałac Sobańskich, with the addition of new chef Robert Skubisz raising their stock still further.

The restaurant bagged all the top awards in the 2010 Wine & Food Noble Night, and continues to be something of an address to impress. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, www.aterlieramaro.pl. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30. Stop press: fronted by star chef Wojciech Amaro, the recent launch of Atelier Amaro hasn’t just shaken Warsaw, it’s served as the biggest wake-up call the city has ever had. Using the latest culinary techniques, you’ll find tables at this standout restaurant booked for months in advance – for the full lowdown see page 26. $$$ Belvedere Restaurant (F8)

ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold and black interiors. $$$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Business Venue” Winner Biała Gęś ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www.bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese. And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 460 for four). As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$ Bistro Przekąski Zakąski (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open daily 24hr. An eat-while-you-stand venue serving up eight złoty bites specifically designed to act as emergency stomach lining for a pre/postparty crowd of vodka sinking glamour cats. $ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re

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after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics. $ Cuda Wianki ul. Przekorna 15 (Powsin), tel. 22 498 1508.

Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:0022:00. Standing at the foot of Kabaty Forest, the interiors here are simply adorable, and heavily influenced by folk art. Co-owned by a tennis pro and his parents, this family have sought to develop their own menu, based on standard Polish fare, but with twists and turns they have gathered through prior experience.

The results are excellent, especially the herring. $ Dekanta (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, tel. 22 622 4594.

Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat 13:00-last guest. A golden-oldies-themed eatery with a good grill and serious cocktails. Be sure to try their most popular dishes: duck and golonka. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Dyspensa (E5-6) ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 22 629 9989, www.dyspensa.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Back after a refit, Dyspensa now looks altogether sharper, cosmopolitan even.

There’s great people watching to be had from the raised window seating, and a menu of fine Polish fare with international accents. $$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight.

If it’s the all-singing, all-dancing village experience you’re after then consider this place. Clad in wood and rural debris the food is what you expect: bulky portions of farmyard kill. $$ Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie (C1) ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, tel. 22 887 6520.

Open 10:00-23:00. Gospoda Kwiaty

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Polskie (Polish Flowers) specialises in Polish cuisine and is known for dishing out some very generous portions. The placki ziemniaczane and kopytka come highly recommended. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Delicious traditional Polish dishes such as golonka, żurek, karkówka and kaszanka, served in hearty portions in very eclectic interiors. $$ Honoratka (C2) ul. Miodowa 14, 022 635 0397, www.honoratka.com.pl. Open daily 12:00- last guest. This place has been around since 1826 and has played host to many famous guests, including Chopin. Honoratka serves delicious traditional Polish dishes and international courses. Live music every day from 18:00. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Bathed in banners and propaganda the Red Hog is your one-stop shop for some socialist socializing. Dine on ‘Brezhnev dumplings’ and ‘capitalist soup’ while Cold War bigwigs gaze from the paintings above. $$ Jadalnia Popularna (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 22 828 4454. Open Mon- Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-17:00. Like a milk bar, only it isn’t. So the food comes out of canteen containers, but it doesn’t stink and it’s served with a smile. Find low-cost Polish eats served around a fun, retro theme to a crowd who wouldn’t be seen dead in the scummy bar mleczny of old. $ Karczma Słupska (G6) ul. Czerniakowska 127, tel. 22 841 4552.

Open daily 11:00-22:00. A jewel-of-arestaurant. After 26 years of steady operation, the charming Polish tradition and excellent food still pulls people in. $ Karmnik (D1) ul. Piwna 4A, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00last guest. There’s a new reason to go to old town, and that’s Karmnik. What was once a pokey tourist restaurant has been reinvented as a hip haunt for cool cats. The menu is decent, basic Polish, but it’s the art-mosphere that gets people coming back.

Expect a variety of events going off inside vaulted interiors that are frequently full. $

POLISH Literacka (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 87/89, tel. 22 635 8995. Open 11:00-24:00. The food is decent and prices are very reasonable, but the service leaves something to be desired.

With a great view of the Old Town, the location is choice. $ MG Eat Gessler (D4) ul. Chmielna 32. Open 10:00-23:00.

Now MG is not your signature Gessler venture; lacking the OTT interiors and flamboyant prices this is a clear departure from what we’re used to. In fact, you couldn’t even call it a restaurant, more a bio café/ deli. The ciabbattas are great, and the FroYo outstanding. $ Na Zielnej (C4) ul. Zielna 37, tel. 22 338 6333, www.nazielnej.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0024:00; 12:00-22:00. Earning plaudits from all corners of the press is Na Zielnej, a dining diva which sources only the finest Polish produce. Split into a restaurant and (marginally cheaper) bistro, the menu has had foodies raving, and includes divine dishes such as pheasant’s breast. And the interiors hit the mark as well – making use of the space vacated by KOM, Na Zielnej touts an edgy, engaging design of bare bricks and violet flourishes. $$$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Address to Impress” Winner Nowa La Boheme (D2) pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 692 0681, www.laboheme.com.pl. Open 12:00-last

guest. The ingredients here may be Polish, but the exquisite presentation and chic interiors are still decidedly continental.

Well-suited for business lunches. $$ Pierogarnia (D2) ul. Bednarska 28/30, tel. 22 828 0392, www.pierogarnianabednarskiej.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. A perfect place to bring a foreigner hungry for a taste of Poland.

Pierogarnia serves a whole range of sweet and savory dumplings, with plenty of vegetarian options. $ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00.

An extensive repertoire of traditional Polish foods that you know, from Jewish-style carp to duck with apples. The place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The service is mixed, and occasionally hostile, but prices are low. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0001:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Towering, bumper portions of animals & veg plus low-cut prices keep this place rammed, while frothing Pilsner mugs and a circulating mountain band add an element of beery, good humor. $ Polka (D2) ul. Świętojańska 2, www.restauracjapolka.pl, tel. 22 635 3535. Open 12:00-23:00. Colorful pastel interiors inspired by Polish folk art set the tone for this place. The servings are small,

but the food is top notch. $$ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

The turn-of-the-century décor brings with it an indelible mark of years gone by. But even if the food is only satisfactory, the wine list is pretty nice. $$

Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00last guest. It isn’t just the impressionable tourists and new-in-town expense account communities that are swept away by Różana’s charms. It features starchy white table linen, floral pieces, flickering candles and live piano solos to a posse of attentive waiters. The prices are fair and the menu is a thoughtful selection of dishes from “Old Poland.”

Restauracja Staromiejska (D1) pl. Zamkowy 15/19 in the Old Town Square, www.restauracjastaromiejska.pl, tel. 22 831 0259. Open 10:00-midnight. This restaurant serves true, traditional Polish delights. The duck stands out especially, crisp and glazed with cranberries, apples and what-not.

To finish, try the wonderful szarlotka with >> whipped cream and ice cream. $$

www.warsawinsider.pl

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EATING OUT >> Rialto’s Restaurant (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto Boutique Hotel), tel. 22 584 8771. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-22:30; Sat-Sun 7:00-22:30. Bathed in toffee and vanilla hues, the restaurant in this Art Deco hotel has a solid claim as one of the top meals around. The pan-seared duck breast with honey pumpkin and figs is every bit as inspired as it sounds. $$$ Rozpusta Restauracja Polska (B3) ul. Elektoralna 23, tel. 22 499 5178, www.restauracjarozpusta.pl. Open 12:0023:00. Only seven mains to choose from, but the chef appears a master of them all.

Utilizing homemade pates and sauces, the menu involves geese, lamb and a jolly good salmon. They’ve not exactly done anything new, but what they have done, they’ve done it well. $$ Smaki Warszawy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 22 621 8268, www.smakiwarszawy.pl. Open 9:00-last

guest. Well-known on the Warsaw scene as a delightful Polish restaurant (try the lamb, for sure), Smaki Warszawy is also renowned for its cakes. Smiling and welcoming staff pour amazing lattes and serve up slices of fantastic pistachio cream cake. $$ Stary Dom (E12) ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, www.restauracjastarydom.pl. Open 12:0023:00. This “old house” serves good old traditional Polish food. The atmospheric main hall features high ceilings and eye-catching wooden beams; mains include rabbit, duck (the house special) and pork cutlets, while the desserts are divine. What sets this place apart from other Polish restaurants are the prices. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during

REVIEW

which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians.

Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www.uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. The place is named after a tubby fictional Czech soldier, but the grub is hearty Polish, portioned out in size XXXL at bargain prices. At zł. 15 per litre of beer, the mugs are constantly refilled to wash down the feast of sausages, ribs and roast pork knuckles. $$ Villa Nuova (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 23 (near the Wilanów Palace), tel. 22 885 1502, www.villanuova.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

Out of the way, but serving trad Polish cuisine with a gourmet twist, and beautifully presented, gorgeously rich desserts. $$$

Theatro ul. Foksal 18, tel. 22 828 0932, www.theatro1811.com. Open 12:00-23:00.

“ It looked good inside, with prints of Gable and Brando, as well as Indian themed statues dotted around”

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aybe it was the location, situated as it is on nouveau riche ul. Foksal, or maybe it was the name, which sounded pretty fancy to me: either way I was thinking I’d been blown away with glitz and glamour, yet when I arrived I was nonplussed to find something surprisingly approachable. And while it looked good inside, with prints of Gable and Brando, as well as Indian themed statues dotted around, it lacked something that I guess almost all new places do – a buzz.

Another disadvantage was that seated as we were, upstairs, I had a TV on the wall right in front of me. It wasn’t tuned in, but for me TV and eating out go together like pasta and strawberries – they don’t. But then something remarkable happened. First of all one of the two very friendly waitresses, who I have to say provided great service all night, came to the table with a vol au vent to try: on the house. And if there is one thing that I really love it’s vol au vents.

Then We are the Champions came on through the speakers, which prior to that had been playing a succession of ballady 70’s. Who doesn’t love vol au vents and Queen?

However, make or break time for Theatro would come with the main course.

As you would expect from a fusion restaurant there are a variety of dishes on the menu, including venison, curry and a whole two pages dedicated to fish.

Feeling adventurous I decided to risk all by ordering swordfish in lemon sauce, while she went for seafood taglietelle. I can’t deny it, I was expecting to be disappointed merely because Warsaw is a terrible city for eating anything that comes from the sea. But when they arrived both dishes looked superb; my swordfish steak was absolutely delicious and unbelievably fresh.

For dessert we decided to share a creme brulee, which I’ve come to see as an excellent test of a good chef, mainly because I’ve had it done terribly on numerous occasions. This time it was faultless, crisp on top but creamy and sweet in the middle. So in food terms, Theatro was superb. And added to the high quality cuisine, the restaurant offers a fine selection of drinks which, all things considered, make it a fantastic addition to Warsaw’s culinary map. (DI)

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PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF THEATRO

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AFRICAN/AMERICAN/ASIAN Winiarnia i Gospoda nad Jeziorem (Józefów) ul. Nadwiślańska 96B, tel. 667 770 790, www.nadjeziorem.pl. Open Tues-Fri 14:0021:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00. One of our favorite hidden gems for a quaint afternoon or evening away from the city. Just about twenty minutes outside of the center, this lodge-style restaurant specializes in fine wines from Bordeaux and traditional Polish food. $$

Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00.

Recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, the two floor HRC boasts Warsaw’s best cheeseburger and a cool staff of skater boys and rock girls. Points of interest include rock’n’roll swag from Hendrix and Madonna, as well as regular live music. $$

african

Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, www.jeffs.pl.

Open 10:00-24:00. Warsaw’s best breakfast aside, head to Jeff’s for megasize portions of American classics of the burger-ribs variety. Find their twin branch in Galeria Mokotów, along with an identical roadhouse design of blinking neon. $

Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057. Open 10:00-23:00. Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $ Home Africa Bar (Wola) ul. Górczewska 67. Open 14:00-last guest.

Authenticity doesn’t only stem from the Cameroonian owner. Home Africa Bar is like an African film set in terms of interior, and food-wise, it offers traditional yams and plaintains, as well as ‘I-dare-you’ items like goat’s head. $ La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. The exteriors don’t go beyond some tribal paintings and exotic lamps, while parts of the menu will frighten the life out of you – baked cow back, for example, sounds like a cooked spinal cord.

Our beef/tomato stew was excellent, but the goat meat saw plenty of tactical napkin use.

And good luck with the gizzard. $$

american & tex-mex

Amigos American Steakhouse (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 22 629 3969, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Sometimes, all you need is a good steak to make everything okay. This is not the place to find one. Usually disappointing, occasionally catastrophic, this Wild West eatery gets nil points for style, and even fewer for service. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$

Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, www.sioux.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00. You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef.

Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. After a summer sabbatical, SPE are back, touting a new edgy look that makes use of concrete colors and exposed pipes. The spicy, sizzlin’ Tex-Mex is fab, and added incentive provided by the rousing rock bands. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 29 (Atrium Plaza), tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are hit-and-miss, but the burgers always on-point inside this timeless tribute to the American way. $$ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. An Insider favourite, principally thanks to brick-thick burritos that are all the better when layered with molten lava-like salsa. The barometer hits fever pitch on weekends when live bands entertain a mixed bag of jiggling

ex-pats and lubricated students. $$

asian

Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120.

Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Bar Sajgon ul. Bracka 18. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00.

A cult budget eatery once found in the defunct Russian Market. Two years after the original went pop they’re back with a neat looking effort on Bracka. Decorated with palms and mint colors, this double decker restaurant gains particular approval for its pho dishes. $ Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. ul. Twarda 42 (off Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:0022:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system.

Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster.

The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$ Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:3022:00. The spring rolls may “taste Polish,” but more authentic are the Cantonese loin in oyster sauce, the Tshingis Chan Mongolian Grill (all-you-can-eat for zł.65) and the succulent Peking Duck. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. Another Vietnamese joint, this one notable for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. >>

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EATING OUT >> At 2 zlot per pop, there’s no excuse to miss it. $ Dziki Ryż (multiple locations) ul. Puławska 24b, tel. 22 848 0060, pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 839 2540, ul. Wspólna 35, Tel. 22 628 1825, www.dzikiryz.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Varied Asian cuisine with dishes from India, Thailand, China and Japan in a very charming setting. All locations of Dziki Ryż are popular and you’ll most likely need a reservation. $ Dżonka (D5) ul. Hoża 54, tel. 22 621 5015. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat & Sun 11:00-17:00. You say Thai and he says Chinese. You say somewhere graceful and he says nowhere showy. You say not too pricey and he says not too shoestring. Then sail into Dżonka. $ Galeria Bali & Buddha Bar (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 828 6771, www.galeriabali.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Galeria Bali offers an extensive menu based on exotic seafood, vegetables, spices and other specialites imported straight from Indonesia. Boasts an entirely Balinese kitchen staff and genuine artifacts from Bali, Burma and Java. $$ Herezja (A3) ul. Chłodna 35/37, tel. 503 074 175, www.herezja.com. Open Sun-Thurs 12:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-3:00. This exotic locale lies off the beaten track in Warsaw’s central Wola district. A seasonal labyrinth of rooms decked out with elegant furnishings from all over Asia. Great for private parties.

Hong Kong House (A6) ul. Filtrowa 70 (pl. Narutowicza), tel. 22 658 0068. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Good food at affordable prices, cozy interior, and a staff whose friendly attitude makes up for their small mistakes. $$ Lemongrass Oriental Restaurant & Bar (E6) Al.Ujazdowskie 8, tel. 22 696 3300, www.lemongrass.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sunday brunch 12:00-16:00.

Instead of the ubiquitous pasta station, you can order your soup starter to taste and watch it be put together. The Peking Duck station offers customized oh-so-thin pancakes rolled around succulent slices of the meat, spring onions, cucumber and palm sugar sauce. Ideal for business meets. $$

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Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, www.lovinghut.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. At first glance you may dismiss it as another Vietnamese greasy spoon. Big mistake.

It turns out this is the Warsaw branch of a global chain backed by a spiritual master (Chiang Hai). The reading material may look a bit cultish, but the food is delicious. $

Sayam (Konstancin) ul. Sienkiewicza 5, tel. 22 756 3343, www.sayam.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00.

A tropical treasure in the heart of Konstancin – Sayam serves up some satisfying pan-Asian cuisine in thoroughly fresh, modern interiors. The summer garden is the perfect place to while away the weekends for adults and kids alike.

Definitely try the sticky ribs and spring rolls.

Also offers cooking classes. $$

Maharaja Thai (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501.

Open daily 12:30-23:00. This Thai restaurant in the Old Town is one of the most authentic and most romantic. Great green curries in a tucked-away, magical location.

Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5)

Natara (B3) Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 666 101 500.

Open 10:00-22:00. With a few wilting orchids and some symbolic pics of Buddha this bi-level restaurant won’t be in the running for any style prizes. The food is spot-on though, and after a brief panic during which we considered ordering everything – it all sounds so good – the Insider settled for duck in wine and a classic green curry. The results were outstanding: rich, velvety flavors and complex tastes. $$ The Oriental (E5) The Sheraton Hotel, ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 18:00-23:00; Sun 12:0016:00 (brunch). Dark, intimate and very quiet hotel restaurant serving Thai, Philippine, Singaporean and Japanese dishes. The waiters are well versed in what the menu offers, so trust their recommendations. $$$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Sunday Brunch” Winner Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00.

Papaya’s uncluttered, contemporary club-style space is classy with hints of luxury imparted by the strategically placed, top-notch cognac and sparkling wine. The Pan-Asian menu favors Thai and Japanese, but there’s also Chinese dim sum and Peking Duck. $$ Pekin (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 4804, www.restauracjapekin.pl. Open daily 12:0023:00. For a culinary trip to Beijing, you need only go as far as Pekin. The interior is a bit basic, but the food is usually very good. $$

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ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, www.sunanta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Small but perfectly formed interiors and a menu that’s widely hailed

by Thai devotees. The green beef curry is outstanding. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood.

The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II ul. Wałbrzyska 40, tel. 22 853 3087, www. suparomthaifood.pl. Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Tien-Tien (C2) ul. Długa 29, tel./fax 022 635 3888.

Open daily 10:00-22:00. A stained and seedy haunt that will look immediately familiar to readers who’ve strayed before inside Warsaw’s Vietnamese joints. Some rate the food - we don’t. $ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307. Mon-Fri 9:30-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version.

Tobaya (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 58, tel. 22 520 2222, www.tobaya.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Inside

ASIAN/BALKAN/BRITISH/FRENCH it’s like a trip to the Far East. ToBaYa stands for To – for Tokyo because you’ll find great sushi and claypots here (same proprietor as So-An sushi on Koszykowa St.), Ba – for Bangkok and the flavorful dishes of Thailand, and Ya – for Yakarta, with rare Indonesian culinary treats. Top choice for two: Pla Prik-Waan a.k.a royal gilthead baked in hot-and-sour sauce.

Yummy (D5) ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. As the name notes, guests can look forward to tasty Asian fare with a strong Vietnamese accent. Interiors are modern and minimal, and a welcome withdrawal from the sleazy style common in most Asian haunts. The Peking duck is a strong starter, and the Pho soups are fab. $

balkan & russian

Banja Luka (E8) ul. Puławska 101, tel. 22 854 0782, www.banjaluka.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00.

Summer’s gone, and with it one of the best gardens around. Instead, enjoy a variety of dishes from Croatia and Serbia inside interiors typical of the hunter’s hut style. It’s a bustling place mind, and reservations are advised. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul.

Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040, www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00.

This is one of those places that you enter

knowing straight away that you want more.

Try the bacon-and-tomato-scented Solanka soup and the pielmieni “Moskiewskie.” The no-frills interiors buzz with vodka tinged high jinks. $ Mała Gruzja (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 40, tel. 660 880 724, www.mala-gruzja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

Indulge in great Gregorian dishes in this quaint restaurant. The saciwi walnut sauce is sure to make a lasting impression, though the wines leave something to be desired. $ U Madziara ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, www.umadziara.pl. Open 11:00-21:00.

Looking at it you wouldn’t expect much, but there’s a reason the homely U Madziara has won the applause of Maciej Nowak – Poland’s toughest food critic. That reason is Gabor, a top chef who’s happy to join customers for a drink… but only after he’s done the biz in the kitchen. The salmon tartar is a great starter, but nothing compared to his signature goulash. Good luck finding a better deal in Warsaw. $ Varna ul. Lwowska 4, tel. 22 468 8792. Open 12:00-last guest.There’s a few Bulgarian joints in town, but none that look this good; decorated with rich, ruby colors and Balkan embroidery the interiors are primed for an all-singing Balk-fest. The menu is cheap and cheerful, with the full list of hearty, homey classics. The musaka is peerless. $

british

Kogel Mogel ul. Powstańców Śląskich 106/lok5, tel. 22 408 1101, www.restauracjakogelmogel.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 11:0023:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. Excellent English breakfasts, but why do they stop serving them so early? Does the specialist breakfast maker go home with the sausages?? Small on the inside, this place has black and white accents and post-modern touches, as well as an international menu with Brit contributions: the rhubarb crumble is excellent.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

french

Bistro de Paris – Michel Moran (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 0107, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com. Open MonSat 12:00-24:00. Bistro de Paris has always won the highest accolades from reviewers ranging from the Insider to Michelin. Here the food is exquisite, dynamic and flawless; whilst the service itself shines through all on its own. Perfect for dinner with the boss or wining and dining >> clients. $$

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EATING OUT >>L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www.larc.pl.

Open 10:00-last guest. An elegant white/black eatery with elaborate plate presentations and crustaceans lurking in the water tank – the house specialty is lobster, and they’ve got it to a tee. $$ La Petite France (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 622 9646, www.lapetitefranceneostrada.pl. Has a very respectable selection of cheese – from soft to hard varieties. $$ Prowansja (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 621 4258, www.prowansja.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. No need to go to a French cottage, the calming atmosphere and great food is right here. The dishes are very imaginative in their combination of various flavors. $$ Saint Jacques (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. 22 620 2531, www.saintjacques.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Warsaw’s had a long and lingering liaison with France, yet the cuisine remains under- represented. This bistro plays the right notes with an intimate interior sprinkled with street signs and life-size black and whites of distant day Paris. The lamb shank is a winner, and the mussels do more than enough to distract from the construction catastrophe clunking outside.

Willa Borówka Hotel & Restaurant (Milanówek) ul. Królowej Jadwigi 5, tel. 22 425 3881, www.willaborowka.pl. Restaurant opens Mon 17:00-last guest; Tue-Sun 12:00- last guest. A wonderland outside of Warsaw. This beautifully-restored manor offers a wonderfully rich atmosphere and wonderful Belgian and French cuisine with delicious beers like the Blanche de Namur. $$

updates

in town and it’s the best of the bunch; the souvlaki are ace and the interiors modern, intimate and a pleasant departure from the Greek caricature. Plate smashing allowed and encouraged. $$ Fenicja (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 32, tel. 510 759 795, www.fenicja.pl. Open 10:00-24:00 (kebab window 24hrs). Bathed in a cheap green glow you just don’t expect a restaurant of this caliber in such a low-budget setting. But it’s excellent, with an encyclopedic choice of eastern dishes enjoyed by hunched Lebanese natives whispering over plates of hummus. The locals though, seem to prefer the 24hr kebab window, home of the best post-pub soakage imaginable. $ Le Cedre (F1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre. pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Lokanta (C4) ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, tel. 22 585 1004, www.lokanta.home.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest. The restaurant has built up its reputation of serving good-quality, traditional Turkish cuisine. The döner kebab will leave you full and happy and is served fast enough at lunchtime to keep up with your schedule. Now throws Orient-inspired dance parties every weekend for Bangla fans. $$

Bar Turecki “Efes”(H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $

Maho (Ochota) Al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www.maho.com.pl. Open 10:00-23:00.

Found in that office/residential grey zone of Ochota, Maho looks more like a drive-thru burger joint from the outside. So it’s surprising to find some of the best skewered meats in Warsaw in this Turkish locale. Basic interiors but great food and well-stocked deli. $

El Greco (B3) ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. 22 654 0458. Open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. The grapevine was right – there’s a new Greek

Meltemi (Ochota) Corner of ul. Drawska and ul. Szczęśliwicka, tel. 22 823 9868. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

Serving a nouveau take on Greek, expect

greek & middle eastern

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presentation over size, but it’s a fine escape from routine whenever you can’t get to the real thing. $$

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Paros ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067. Open 12:00-23:00. Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$ Restauracja Flios (Ursynów) ul. Dereniowa 6, tel. 22 648 4589, www.restauracjaflios.pl. Open daily 12:0023:00. The décor is OTT, but there’s little to complain about when it comes to the food.

Excellent appetizers – zesty pikilia, stuffed grape leaves, meat cutlets and some of the best fried eggplant around. $$$ Samira (C7) Al. Niepodległości 213 (behind the National Library), tel. 22 825 0961, www.samira. pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:0018:00. If you make the effort to find it, you’ll spot ambassadors, celebrities and artists scarfing down their excellent Lebanese kofta. Here you will find chickpeas, tahini paste, bulgar wheat, grape leaves, rose and orange flower water. Fresh cheese (Lebanese and Bulgarian) can be bought by weight from the deli counter. $ Santorini (Saska Kępa) ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Forgetting the rather dubious exterior, Santorini – decorated like a Greek fishermans tavern – remains one of the top restaurants of its ethnic class. The lamb chops are fab, but for a real plate licking experience order the milfei as dessert. $$ Tawerna Patris Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 22 357 11 11, www.tawernapatris. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

Looking dusty and disheveled from the outside, Tawerna surprises everyone who visits. Decorated with white plaster walls and pics of Greek harbor towns, the seafood starters are something else. It’s impossible to judge what’s better: the mus-

GREEK/INDIAN sels in tarragon or the marinated octopus.

With prices this moderate, we suggest you order both. A fantastic place for a lively group dinner. $$

indian

Annapurna (B5) ul. Twarda 56, tel. 22 409 4400. Open 11:30-22:00. Bland, sterile interiors have ceded way for typical curryhouse furnishings, lending a real authenticity to one of Warsaw’s best curries. The vindaloo hits a red-hot emergency level that’s unrivaled in town, and the offer extends to Thai, Nepalese and a sprinkling of Chinese.

Arti (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 121/123, tel. 22 626 9002, www.restauracjaarti.pl. Open daily 11:00-22:30. An exhaustive selection of largely excellent Indian dishes inside a low-cost interior in the center of town. Better surroundings but the same quality are found in their ul. Francuska operation across the water. $ Bombaj Masala (B3) ul. Starościńska 10/12, tel. 22 392 6475, www.bombajmasala.pl. A tiny backstreet curry cave in which guests sit shoulder-toshoulder while pots clang in the distance.

The food is top quality, and the prices fair.

And those looking for something a little more high-end should swerve this and instead check their new venue on Jana Pawła (see below). $$

Bombaj Masala Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777. Open 11:00-23:00. A definite applicant for Poland’s best looking Indian, and instantly superior to Warsaw’s more shabby curry houses. The tikka masala is love at first bite, though the spice lever on the Madras needs jacking up.

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $ Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. When the service isn’t clanking around, dropping things or misplacing orders, they’re weaving between tables delivering what’s a definite candidate for Poland’s top curry. Inconsistencies abound, but the Madras is superb and the interiors chic, dark and moody. $ Ganesh Express ul. Grzybowska 61, www.ganeshexpress. pl. Open 10:30-22:30. While their flagship on Wilcza ranks as one of Warsaw’s best curries, find the polar opposite within a hop of the Hilton. Spooned out of canteen-style containers the food here is catastrophic, so the fact the servings are so small is actually a blessing in disguise. Ganesh Express? More

like Total Ga- -sh Express. $ India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www. indiacurry.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

Under new management, Warsaw’s most upmarket Indian restaurant is the corporate choice for when suits want it hot. Never short of excellent, the prawn curries are something else.

Katmandu (C5) ul. Wspólna 50/52, tel. 22 622 0026.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:0023:00. Nepalese, Thai and Indian dishes inside a no-effort, bare bones interior.

But the curries are good, and occasionally excellent; set fire to your tonsils with a chicken madras. $ Maharaja India (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily, unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is amongst the best in the city. $$ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 While it caters to a party crowd in the evening, this place is run >>

by Nepalese chef Prakash and features a

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EATING OUT >> menu of authentic treats throughout the day and evening. Also offers delivery through its India Express catering service. $ Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl.

Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $ Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, www.saffronspices.pl. Open 11:00-20:00. With the revamp complete and the builders gone, diners can now concentrate on good Indian standards in a cosmopolitan interior. Some claim it’s emerging as one of the top curries in town, a once optimistic opinion that’s fast gathering pace. $

international & fusion

12 Stolików (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 519 151 504. Open 9:0023:00. Affecting a chichi style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles and autumn leaves. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that embraces the credos that cooking should be theater. The menu comes chalked up on a board, and while the alio olio was a little overcooked, the big guns were out for the steak – fabulous. Definitely one to watch. $$ Angelo (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 22 622 4454, www.bacio.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:00-last guest; Fri & Sat 11:00-last guest. With a charming folklore interior, the candlelight will lead you into a world of sweet romance.

The delicate antipasti and Italian merlot will certainly ease you into good conversation. $$ Babalu (F1) ul. Kłopotowskiego 33, tel. 22 424 6666, www.babalu.pl. Open noon-23:00. Warsaw’s first all-you-can eat locale. You pay zł. 29,99 per person and enjoy a salad and fruit bar, grilled ribs or other meats, a pick-your-owningredients flaming wok, an endless selection of pastas and sauces, dumplings from around the world, reasonable drink prices, and a children’s play area. Catering available too. $

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Bagno Food & Wine ul. Bagno 2, www.bagno2.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00. With its huge windows and stark style you can’t help but think Bagno would work best in summer; all it takes is a grey Warsaw day to cloak this place in gloom. Which is a shame, as the food (and wine) really work here. Our steak was nicely done, with a flavorful mushroom sauce and thick baked potatoes on the side. $$ Bistecca ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www. bistecca.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A warm and welcoming meat-themed restaurant, featuring one of the largest pieces of steak we’ve ever seen. But if you don’t fancy being chef for the night, stay away from the mixed grill – after a few moments of confusion we realized we were meant to finish the cooking process ourselves; a novel idea, but not what we had in mind when we went out for the evening. $$ Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Międzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of riverside parkland – perfect for lazy Sundays with family and friends. Freshly re-opened after a winter break, during which time Chef Luc has traveled the Mediterranean sourcing the best ingredients and snooping out new recipes. $$ Brasserie@ferdy’s (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24 (in the Radisson Hotel), tel.

22 321 8822. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Vegetarians will go hungry here, but carnivores will be in meaty heaven. Get the blackened chicken with thick-cut Gaucho fries – fantastic. $$

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Butchery & Wine (D5)

ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www.butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. They’re closing in on their first birthday, but this is still the restaurant everyone is talking about. Served on wood boards, the steak are beyond reproach, served up by staff in butchers aprons. Drawing celebs and execs, the food is beyond reproach, as proved by their predictable triumph at Gazeta Wyborcza’s restaurant awards. Bookings are essential. $$ C.K. Oberża (D4) ul. Chmielna 28, tel. 22 828 4585, www.ckoberza.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. A wood-looking eatery

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updates

where towering plates of food present considerable challenge to carnivore appetites – come hungry. All the basic culinary needs are covered, while the Cesarska Deska Mięs features practically every animal to ever come out the wrong end of an abattoir. $$ Deco Kredens (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 826 0660, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest.

Elegant and ornate, but the menu is a tool of deception - the final results are nowhere near as tasty as they sound. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Appealing to the serious spender, the US Longhorn (a cool zł. 185) is utterly unforgettable. Try it with orange whiskey sauce. $$$ Delikatesy Esencja ul. Marszałkowska 8, tel. 22 480 8018, www.delies.pl. Open 8:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 8:00-2:00; Sun 8:00-23:00. A long, narrow space that’s a mix of bar, restaurant and ‘culture’ cafe – only this looks better than most. No second hand collectibles here, just a cool look accented by concrete colors and overhead pipes. The menu is a creative, light bite affair with dishes like gyutataki served to a hip crowd who’ve outgrown nearby Plan B. Etno ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 564 5780, www.etnoerestauracja.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Looking rather sterile and anonymous, it’s no surprise to find Etno’s scattering of customers consisting of the grey-looking number crunchers from the offices upstairs. While it’s not exactly light on the wallet, the lunch deals make it more than worthwhile – a selected starter and main for 20-something zlots. $$

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Flaming & Co. (E6) ul. Chopina 5, tel. 22 628 8140, www. flaming-co.com. Open 7:30-24:00. A superb eatery seemingly styled by Ralph Lauren.

Winning rave reviews across the board, find a strong international offering and even a small ice skating rink in the park that it views. $$

INTERNATIONAL Freta 33 (C1) ul. Freta 33/35, tel. 22 635 0931. Open 12:0023:00. Tasty dishes at reasonable prices.

Enjoy the beautiful view over the New Town Square through floor-to-ceiling windows. The pasta and salads are surprisingly tasty. $$ Fusion (B4) Westin Hotel, Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8631. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-22:30; Sat & Sun 7:00-10:30, 12:00-22:30. A stylish restaurant that’s best recognized for its seriously good brunches.

See for yourself each Sunday, when zł. 165 gets you unlimited access to some top-range F&B. Turn up on Thursday night for a similar offer that’s focused on fish. $$$ Ginger (D4) ul. Zgoda 12, tel. 22 827 3003, www.ginger.com.pl. Open 24hr. The tropical interior would have looked great in the 80’s, nowadays it doesn’t. Who cares – it’s open round-the-clock, and design shortcomings can be overlooked when it’s five in the morning. International menu, with a fusion twist. $$ Green Peas ul. Szpitalna 5, tel. 22 826 1985, www.greenpeas.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00.With Ye Goode Foode nuked into touch, it’s been left to Green Peas to wave the eco-flag. Featuring vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free meals, it’s a well-rounded, health conscious offer here – probably the healthiest in the city.

Low cal and low cost inside a greenish, cafeteria style space. $

killed off countless restaurants. We’ll be there next issue to see how they’re faring. $$

Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com. Open 12:00-last guest. Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides.

Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$

Kultura ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 22/23, tel.

784 044 051. Open 11:00-23:00.

An initiative from the connecting artsy cinema. Looking slick and polished, creative effect is added by the use of colorful umbrella-style lights, while away from the frontline find the hard work done by the former chef at Dyspensa. And yes, it’s a dream team in the kitchen, with desserts and cakes fixed by those who made Café Misianka the legend it is. $$

H3 Gourmet Burger (C12) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska, www.h3.com.

Open 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00.

Okay, so it’s in a food court, but H3 are a million times superior to the immediate neighbors. Part of a Portuguese chain, bunless burgers come in a variety of choices: including one with an egg on it (eek!). Go for the mushroom one instead. $

La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com.

Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. Cooking becomes art in La Rotisserie, an impeccable restaurant with a sterling rep. Bossing it all Jazz Bistro Gwiazdeczka (D2) is Paweł Oszczyk, a doyenne of the local ul. Piwna 40, tel. 22 887 8764. Open daily culinary scene, and his interpretations of 10:00-last guest ( the kitchen closes at 24:00). French cuisine prove second-to-none. $$$ With a medieval yet chic décor, this charming restaurant in the Old Town is, among some Likus Concept Store (D3) others, a good choice. $$ ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 Kaprys 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. Open ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2232. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This former bath 12:00-last guest. Krucza is in the midst of a house is adorned by columns and handculinary renaissance, and with Chef Tomek painted glazed ceramics. A fine menu of Łapińskiego in the kitchen we’ve been hearing fusion fare with an ‘artsy flair’ is guaranteed, good reports from this newbie. Even so, with creative desserts to follow with. Over >> they’ve a curse to think of – this address has 300 Italian wine labels (not to mention

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INDIA CURRY tel. 22 438 93 50/51, Żurawia 22 Street

The real taste of India www.indiacurry.pl

Business lunch 25 pln

New menu!

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EATING OUT >> tipples from Spain, France and Austria), as well a selection of cigars make Concept a number one choice for that all important meal. $$$ Marconi (D3) Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1823. Open daily: 6:30-10:30, 12:30-16:30, 18:00-23:00.

Sunday brunch: 12:30-16:30. Sun-kissed and flavorful – the quality at the Bristol’s Mediterranean-style restaurant is just what you’d expect from one of Warsaw’s top hotels – excellent. $$$ Merliniego 5 (E10) Restaurant and Wine Bar, ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad.

Meza Restaurant (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Hotel). Open daily 6:30-23:00. The décor is decent and the service is very good but the food is wonderful – try the fettucini with king prawns in Chopin vodka. The Meza chocolate cake, warm and oozing liquid fudge is the most delectable bit. $$ Moonsfera ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4, tel. 22 560 3733, www.moonsfera.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

The roof terrace aside, Moonsfera’s many glories include a creative menu honed by a team who clearly enjoys the odd experiment.

And my, the menu reads like a love letter: grilled sirloin marinated in bison grass, dressed with cream of liver and chestnut crumble... Mmmm. $$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 794 16 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Mere steps from Wilanów’s 18th Century church, this former blacksmiths passes muster with excellent steak and a cocktail list invented by Richard Winkler – former mastermind of Paparazzi and Porto Praga. The fish too is fantastic and fresh, meaning even without their clincher – the summer garden – it’s very much a destination to follow. $$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Kid Friendly” Winner Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 621 1881. Open 10:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Are you in a restaurant or inside a book shop? The mind

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plays tricks in Opasły, the latest venture from the Kregliccy family (Santorini, Chianti etc).

Filled with hardback volumes and newspaper clippings, this trendy Foksal spot features a concise menu that includes chili shrimp. $$ Papu (D9) Al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, www.restauracjapapu.pl. Open daily 10:00last guest. The elegant décor, complimented by fantastic staff, all combine to make this a relaxing and romantic experience. $$$ Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www. passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. The diverse, international menu has in its number some delicious ribs in BBQ sauce. The interiors are pleasant and non-offensive, though pale in comparison when put head-to-head with the garden; a lush sanctuary, it’s one of the best around. $$ Piony Poziomy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter on ul. Oleandrów), tel. 22 406 4496, www.pionypoziomy.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Consisting of creative Mediterranean dishes, the menu is packed with what can only be described as culinary revelations. It’s got a welcome atmosphere, something squared off by relaxing background music and a friendly staff. The food is excellent, not a weak point to criticize, and perfectly complimented by a price/quality ratio that’s too good for words Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, Frida Restaurant - but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Porto Praga (F1) ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:001:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00.

Bathed in rich, ruby shades and Art Deco swirls, PP looks classy and elegant yet never too formal. Different species of Warsaw life happily co-exist here, enjoying a revamped menu courtesy of chef Marcin Wojtczak. The cocktails are amazing as well – Bloody Mary

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is our standard bar-ometer, and here it passes the test with flying colors. $$$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl.

Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$ BEST WAWA 2011 “First Date” Winner R20 (F5-6) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295. Open 07:30-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. This top-notch, casually elegant restaurant offers a concise, tantalizing selection of food with signature recipes from the head chef. Strongly recommended is the mouth-watering baked duck with orange and homemade ravioli. $$-$$$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www. restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:0023:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The feeding trough of the business class. Back sporting a futuristic look, 99 have been pleasing diners since opening in the 90’s. The good news is they’re better than ever, with a modern international menu that includes one of the finest steaks in town, and the perfect margarita. $$

Restaurant Strauss (C4) Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2834, www.strauss.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-16:00; 18:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 18:00-22:30. The owners tell us that they’ve totally revamped not only the interior, but also the menu and it now sports European cuisine. $$ Sense (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570, www.sensecafe.com.pl. Open Sun-Thur 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00. Fusion food, top cocktails and the restobar concept: it all started here, or at least it did where Warsaw is concerned. Years on and Sense is still a market leader, with a menu that’s perfect bait for the hot lookers who come here – try the flame-grilled lamb chops. $$ Sofa Clubistro (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 28 (entrance from ul. Nowogrodzka 56), tel. 22 626 1415, www.sofa.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:0024:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-22:00.

Take jazz, soften the edges and mix it with

INTERNATIONAL exotic food. The result is Sofa. Excellent Panzerotti with artichokes and amazing ice-cream. $$ Solec (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec.waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a Swiss-Polish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $ Spotkanie (Żoliborz) ul. Krasińskiego 2, tel. 22 839 3069, www.spotkanie.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Stylish, low-key décor, delicious, light salads and decent mains – the Romanov beef steak in mushroom and pepper sauce is simply excellent. $$

St. Antonio (D2) ul. Senatorska 37, tel. 22 826 3008, www.stantonio.pl. Open Tues-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-24:00. Popular among business negotiators and Polish VIPs, the place gets high marks for offering fresh and tasty Mediterranean dishes as well as seasonal Polish delicacies amidst Laura Ashley décor. $$ Studio Buffo (E5) ul. M. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 22 339 0775, www.studiobuffo.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:3023:00; Sat & Sun 13:00-23:00. Famous for its shows, Studio Buffo should not be forgotten for its food. It’s a popular place with arty types, and the menu offers tasty mains. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. With a location looking at the Chopin Museum you may assume this place is all about boring food at tourist prices. Wrong. Chic and shiny, and with a cool glass frontage, chef Robert – a veteran of the El Bulli kitchen – does the

rest with delicate dishes that could pass for art. $$ Theatro Fusion Restaurant ul. Foksal 18, www.theatro1811.com.

Open 12:00-23:00. The menu is a balance of international influences, and includes a selection of ‘Thai pasta’ and a lovely creation called Chicken Barbara. Finally open after what seems like a year of work, the elaborate interiors reflect the Foksal location. $$$ U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00.

Literally translated as ‘with the cooks’, you find yourself in the thick of the action here, with diners planted in the kitchen area of the former Hotel Europejski. There’s a great atmosphere of orchestrated chaos here, with food served straight from the pots. Some are calling this the best meal in Warsaw, and it’s certainly up there…. even if the cocktails aren’t. $$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Restaurant Design” Winner >>

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EATING OUT >> Valadier (C9) ul. Łowicka 16, tel. 22 224 5454, www.valadier.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

Set in an elegant mansion this aristocratic choice comes fronted by Paweł Żółtanski, and he’s mixed French, Italian and Polish styles to come up with an exclusive menu that reads like a royal banquet: guinea fowl, pigeon and quail to name just some examples. $$$ Villa Czersk (Czersk) ul. Warszawska 23, tel. 22 736 2188, www.villaczersk.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

Found 30 clicks south of Warsaw, VC gets a spoonful of extra points for setting; a mock Tuscan villa in walking distance from the ruined castle in Czersk. Ideal following a visit to the aforementioned, this restaurant has a formal air and an important sounding

internationa/Mediterranean menu that specializes in fish – make sure to try the mussels, they are fantastic. $$

ously – even the soups are made from spring water. The menu might not be as extensive as before, but it’s not a bad shout if you’re in the hood. $$

Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest.

The pasta is filling, and probably deserves its reputation as some of the best in Warsaw. It comes as no surprise that they are often fullybooked. Check out one of the best summer gardens in the city. $$

You and Me (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, www.youandmebar.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:3024:00; Fri 8:30-2:00, Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Serving up a pretty attractive selection of food. The interiors of this café/bar look very modern, and the bold crimson decor makes it a hot spot for a date. $$

Ye Goode Foode ul. Zamiany 12, tel. 22 254 4025. Open 11:00-last guest. YGF are back, this time in an off-center location in the middle of the ’burbs.

Making use of unrefined oils and organic produce these guys take their cooking seri-

Zaułek Smaków – Winiarnia Portius (Żoliborz) ul. Felińskiego 52, tel. 22 839 8681, www.zauleksmakow.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Located in a beautiful area in old Żoliborz, it offers unique mixture of

HOT FIND Taverna Patris ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 22 497 1847, www.tawernapatris.pl.

Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

“ For a full ten minutes the GF was silent as she gnawed away on hunks of cute animal”

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n first look it’s easy to bypass Taverna – isolated from the rest of Saska by a busy stretch of highway, this looks more like a roadside diner, a point underlined by a street level window which allows you to peer into a worn and weathered kitchen. As one who likes to judge books by their cover, I’d have been happy to give it a miss. Alas, I’m not the decision maker, so when the girlfriend announced we were celebrating her birthday in Taverna, we were celebrating her birthday in Taverna.

Thankfully it looks a lot better from the inside than it does on the out, and while there’s no surprises with the interiors, the fisherman’s tavern look is a proven mood-setter. Speckled with paintings of Greek harbor scenes, the blue/ white design looks simple, snug and totally engaging. But I was there for food, not ambiance, and it’s on this detail that Taverna earned its stripes.

For starters I ignored the main menu, choosing instead from a sheet of paper with some seasonal offerings: mussels in tarragon sauce, please. Now there’s nothing new-fangled or experimental about this dish, it’s just straight forward and tasty – or in Taverna’s case, very tasty. Amazingly, my choice was very nearly topped by partner’s marinated octopus; slowly, I was starting to understand why the GF, a self-appointed expert on Hellenic restaurants, rates this as her favorite in town.

The mains were always going to have a tough job matching the opening courses, but match them they did. There’s no better measuring cup where Greek restaurants are involved than the lamb, and here the lamb chops come perfectly grilled, tender and in generous portions. For a full ten minutes the GF was silent as she gnawed away on hunks of cute animal. Myself, I opted for pork in a homemade sweet mustard sauce. This was another uncomplicated choice, served on a huge plate and with just enough mustard to make the dish interesting, but not overpowering. I was seriously impressed.

To eat anything more would have been physically dangerous, not to mention obscene. But buoyed by our third vat of wine we shared a rich and towering chocolate mousse that sent buttons pinging off my trousers. As conclusions go, it was an apt end to a memorable meal. Even more welcome, was the final bill.

Mains go from zł. 35 to zł. 50, a preposterously healthy price for standards this strong. (AW)

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PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF TAWERNA PATRIS

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ITALIAN Hungarian, Italian and Polish cuisine and guarantees something for everyone. $

dations include the penne alla norcina and frutti di mare pizza. $$$

Zen Jazz Bistro (D3) ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 447 2500, www.jazzbistro.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00- 24:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00. The menu at Zen Jazz Bistro is rather lengthy, but the dishes are up to the expectation the delectable descriptions create. The tuna steak in teriyaki isn’t great, but everything else is pretty much on the money. $$

Chianti (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 828 0222, www.kregliccy.pl/chianti.php. Open 12:0023:00. We recommend trying the salmon pasta, and the tiramisu and pannacotta for dessert. During the week, standards stay high as the chef doles out excellent salads and pasta. $$

Żużu (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 43, entrance from ul. Różana, tel. 22 646 4585, www.bistro-zuzu. pl. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-21:00. Żużu is hidden away in Mokotów, but well worth tracking down. The Panga/Sole Fillet served with white and wild rice risotto, saffron sauce and Tian vegetables is an excellent main dish. $

italian

Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 22 635 8377, www.restauracjaarsenal.pl. Open 10:0023:00. It’s been years since we heard great words about Arse, and while the food remains fine there’s a distinct impression that their finest hour has long since passed.

A great play area for kids, it’s still not a bad option if you’re heading from Old Town with accompanying bambinos. $$ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 8303, www.bacio.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest. Handwritten menus yield such goodies as spinach gnocchi and pear in mascarpone. Great pastas too and wine selection. The Bacio chain extends to other locations on Wilcza 8 and Ciszewskiego 15. $$ Bellini (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. 22 831 0202, www.restauracjabellini.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Queen of cuisine Magda Gessler brings her magic to the realm of Italian cooking with this spacious, enigmatic cellar restaurant just a few doors down from U Fukiera. Brilliant pizzas, especially the signature white pizza, with fresh mozzarella, provolone, rucola, pear slices and pine nuts. $ Castello (Wilanów) ul. Wiertnicza 96, tel. 22 885 7505, www.castello.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Excellent food. Recommen-

Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www. delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00.

Scene of this Insider’s meal of the year, circa 2010. Unassuming at first sight, it takes seconds to notice that something is very, clearly wrong – the tables are full and the diners having fun. There’s two reasons for that, and they’re called Luca and Lorenzo. Luca is the showman and waiter supreme, while Lorenzo the culinary master behind this much talkedabout venue. Fish is their forte, with deliveries from Italy arriving Tuesdays. $$$ Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0002, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00.

They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland. $ Doppio ul. Gałczyńskiego 3, tel. 22 622 1330. www.doppio-senso.pl. Open Tues-Sun 13:00-last guest. Some might call the red and white interiors a little lame – they certainly do little to suggest the greatness in store. While there’s a good scattering of pasta and mains, the real deal is the pizza; top in the town’s pecking order claim their expanding band of fans. $$ Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 831 3443, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$

Gar Restaurant (D4) ul. Jasna 10, tel. 22 828 2605, www.gar.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

The Polish-French fusion of Gar is gone, replaced with a fun cinematic-themed trattoria.

The pizza pies are excellent with thin-crust and hearty toppings. The hefty prices have slimmed down to an easy zł.12-35 per dish. $ Giovanni Rubino (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 37, tel. 22 826 2788, www.giovanni.pl. Open daily 11:00-last guest. With satisfying salads and a pretty good thin-crust pizza, Giovanni Rubino is the Insider’s pick for when you’re looking for a quick late-nite bite in the Old Town area. $ Il Caminetto (Saska Kępa) ul. Zwycięzców 46, tel. 22 672 5596, www.ilcaminetto.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

This unexpected spot houses a fantastic Italian restaurant with authentic pastas and mains. A secret fave among the Italiano set, with the mezzelune dello chef and ravioloni ai quattro formaggi highly recommended. $ La Cantina (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 331 6798, www.lacantina.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. Mediterranean dishes with pastas, seafood and meat dishes and a large variety of pizza from a wood-fired oven. $ La Tomatina (D5) ul. Krucza 47. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00. You get the idea not even the A Team can save these guys. They’ve been open for minutes, but have already found themselves universally slammed by bloggers, critics and foodies alike. Surely it can’t be that bad? Watch this space for our verdict next month. $$ Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Design doesn’t figure highly here, instead the onus is on food – the salads are good, but the pizzas even better; maybe even the best in the city. Who says so? Only about a zillion Italians who order from here. $ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706.

Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, lunch 12:00-16:00; Sat & Sun 7:30-10:30, lunch 12:30-16:30.

Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30. Hot and cold buffet for zł.90. $$$

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EATING OUT >> Oregano (Białołęka Dworska) ul. Bohaterów 14, tel. 22 425 5964, www.oregano-restauracja.pl. Open Mon-Thurs & Sun 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. Just about 25 minutes drive from the center, this lovely villa houses a cozy Italian restaurant with a menu that’s traditional but also very creative, put together by award-winning chef Anna Martynowska. Highly recommended for a weekend brunch/dinner jaunt. $$ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00.

The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Pepperoni (Żoliborz) ul. Krasińskiego 10, tel. 022 839 6961. Open 11:00-23:00. Colourful and stylish pizza parlour with 43 varieties of pizza to choose from, and a selection of pastas, soups and salads. $$ Piccola Italia (Ochota) ul. 1 Sierpnia 46, www.piccolaitalia.pl, tel. 22 846 8737. Open 12:00-23:00. The wood-fired oven brings out some of the best pizza in town, especially for fans of the vegetariana. $ Pizzeria na Barskiej (C6) ul. Barska 37, tel. 22 822 2750. Open daily 12:00-22:00. We’re told that this restaurant serves the best pizza in the city. Check it out and decide for yourself. A wide selection of huge pizzas ensure the return of many patrons. $ Pizzeria na Nowolipkach (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, tel. 22 498 8877, www.nanowolipkach.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A back street haunt that earns its stripes for excellent pizza – but better ring your order, with staff this sour it pays to keep contact minimal. $ Poezja (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 622 6762, www.poezja.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The Italian influence is evident in the extravagant menu and a lovely wine list. Try the garlic cream soup with snails as a starter and get the ink with shrimp as a main. $$ Pomidoro (Konstancin-Jeziorna) Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 22 702 8777.

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Open daily 12:00-last guest. An authentic Italian restaurant located in a renovated paper mill. Chef Ricardo whips up some of the best pizzas, pastas and steaks you’ll find in this city. Try the spaghetti alle vongole or the bistecca alla fiorentina for a real taste of Tuscany. $$

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Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, www.puntaprima.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. A formal looking space with wood walls and important chests and cabinets. Start with a glass of prosecco before being blown over by mains like guinea fowl with truffle puree and caramelized beetroot – even better than it sounds. $$

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standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$ Roma (multiple locations) ul. Grottgera 2 (ul.Belwederska 17), ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 826 7676, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 14:0021:00. Good food and charming Italianthemed décor – wine bottles and grapevines strewn about this intimate restaurant. Feast on a meaty Boscaiola or Carbonara. A bit kitsch but the prices are good and the staff are sweet. $$

Quattro Canti Trattoria (Wilanów) ul. Syta 120, tel. 509 644 559, www.quattrocanti.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00.

Brave the nondescript entrance to enjoy tasty Italian classics in a simple trattoria setting. Try the Mafioso pizza, the vitello tonato main and gorgonzola spinach on the side. $

Roma Bukieteria (E5) ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 621 0311, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. If you’re looking for a spot of Mediterranean romance, this is the place. Warm shades of terracotta, wooden interiors and rose petals are the perfect place for a romantic dinner with a special someone. $$

Rimini Pizza (Ursynów) ul. Roentgena 1 (corner of ul. Pileckiego), tel. 22 641 9544, www.rimini.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. The pizzas are made in full view, and they are near-perfect: Italian-style crust, delightful tomato sauce, fresh toppings and just the right amount of cheese. $

Rusticoni Restaurant (C4) Złote Tarasy, tel. 22 222 0550, www.rusticoni. pl. Italian specialities, right in the heart of Warsaw. Choose from a wide variety of pizzas and pastas, as well as an assortment of meat and fish dishes, and a range of desserts, including home-made tiramisu. $

Ristorante Balgera (E8) ul. Rejtana 14, tel 022 849 5674, www.balgera.pl.Open 12:00-last guest.

Enjoy succulent and hearty Italian pastas and steaks, sip rich Cabernet Sauvignon and treat your taste buds to a slice of decadent Tiramisu. $$$

Sapori d’Italia (Ursynów) ul. Dembego 10 lok. U5, tel. 888 231 030, www.sapori-ditalia.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00. Recommended dishes include the tuna salad, a vibrant mix of tuna fish, salad, green olives and tomatoes enlivened by a creamy dill sauce and the deliciously tender Dourade fish. The food is well-worth the trip out to this slightly remote restaurant. $$

Ristorante Il Sole (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 27, tel. 22 653 6484, www.ilsole.com.pl. Open 11:00-24:00.

Cut-price lunch deals draw in suited crowds from the offices upstairs, while modern, cosmopolitan interiors further stroke the corporate feel. The food won’t win prizes – neither will the servers – but it’s not a bad haunt if you’re working locally. $$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same

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Trattoria Rucola (H4) ul. Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00.

Serving classic Italian favorites including pizza, pasta and risotto, this restaurant has something for everyone. The Saska Kępa locals already love this place, so reservations are recommended.

Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 574 4357, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00.

Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side. The M.O is very much the same, with huge wall prints

ITALIAN/SUSHI of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval.

Va Bene Ristorante (A9) ul. Pruszkowska 13, tel. 22 824 5060, www.vabene.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. The restaurants offer a traditional Italian menu and the family atmosphere and menu (pizzas, pastas and ice-cream) make this place suitable for both kids and parents. $$ Vapiano (B12) ul. Taśmowa 7, tel. 22 356 1050, www.vapiano.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venezia (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 622 1537, www.venezia.com.pl. Open noon-23:00.

What happens when a restaurant hits the skids? They call Magda Gessler, or more

specifically her Polski version of Kitchen Nightmares. Reinvented under her guiding hand, Venezia are back with an exciting menu and an informal design that includes Venetian murals and a stone lion. Can Venezia reclaim their reputation?

The grilled sirloin with chili says yes. $$

23:00. Squirreled away in Park Szczęśliwicki in Ochota, the forte of the establishment is the home-made pasta. The menu is otherwise a cookie-cutter range of pizza with the usual range of toppings. If you’re after baked dough the “panuozzo” sandwiches are real winners just be prepared to wait a while. $

Venti Tre (E7) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094. Open 6:30-23:00. With good seafood – such a rarity in Warsaw – Venti Tre serves up lovely meals that would appease the finicky appetite of any fish-lover. $$$ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00.

japanese & sushi

Akashia (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767; Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0333, www.akashia.pl. Compared to competitors it looks a little unassuming, almost faded.

The sushi is spot on though, and unlike some rivals they haven’t gone for the cut-price Polish chef option. $$

Vera Italia (Ochota) ul. Sąchocka 5, tel. 22 823 8380, www.veraitalia.pl. Open 11:30-23:00. Where Warsaw’s Italian and other expats craving the real thing gather for Italian food. Note that its popularity makes booking ahead a must. $$

Art Sushi (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. 22 621 7720, www.artsushi.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The restaurant is charming, modern and peaceful. The menu is strictly Japanese/Korean, but is a good starting-point >> for sushi first-timers. $$

Włoska Robota (Ochota) ul. Drawska 22 (Ochota), tel. 783 870 463.

Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-

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EATING OUT >> Besuto Sushi Bar (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 28 (pavilion 2), tel. 22 828 0020, www.besuto.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. Set in the maze of pavilions behind Nowy Świat, Besuto looks distinctly at odds with the skaggy, shaggy bars in direct proximity.

Featuring a jarring black/green design, the sushi is regarded as a bargain deal in a city where raw fish is commonly associated with premium prices. $ Doozo (D4) ul. Bracka 18, tel. 22 828 18 19, www.doozo. pl.Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 13:30- 20:00. A tiny, two-floor sushi emporium with a modern look and segregated VIP section. Check their ‘sticks’, tasty meat and fish options spiked onto skewers. $$ Gugo Sushi (Wilanów) ul. Nałęczowska 60, tel. 22 394 5480, www.gugosushi.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:0021:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00. Fresh ingredients and wide selection of traditional items and modern creations from the classic and fusion menus make this new sushi spot in Wilanów worth checking out. $$ Hana Sushi Jasna Centre (D3) Jasna Centre, ul. Jasna 14/16A, tel. 22 826 8585, www.hanasushi.pl.

Open 12:00-23:00. This new location of Hana Sushi combines sleek Japanese minimalism with an air of decadence, and serves food as fresh and attractive as the presentation. $$ Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955.

Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00). Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. $$$ Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu.

Open 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$ Kaizen ul. Świetlicowa 7/9 (Konstancin), tel.

607 128 840. Open 12:00-22:00. Dark

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woods and orchids warm the characteristically minimal Japanese design. The traditional sushi is delicious; however they also step in uncommon directions as they cater to Western tastes, with additional sauces, innovative inclusions and elegant plate ensembles. $$ Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery (D2) ul. Senatorska 17/19, tel. 22 892 0901, www.kiku.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A rather well-designed place with lots of Japanese-inspired furnishings. This restaurant, run by a Korean staff, offers far more than good sushi: tasty glassy noodles and udon soups too. $ Maguro (D5) ul. Wilcza 26, tel. 22 621 7460, www.magurosushi. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00.

The day’s sushi selection sails past on boats in this Wilcza stalwart, and from what we’ve seen, then yes, it should float your boat as well. $$ Oto Sushi (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 44, tel. 22 828 0088, www.oto-sushi.pl. This little sushi spot is both modern and intimate, making it great for casual meals or dates. Excellent sushi and swift service. Great patio in summer. $$ The Place (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 826 4517, www.theplacesushi.pl. Open daily 12:00- last guest. Great sushi at (surprisingly) great prices and other Japanese specialties in a slick setting. Plus delicious vegetarian options too. $ Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Some call it the best sushi in the city, and they may have a point.

Practice nimble chopstick tricks alongside other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ Sushi 77 (B4) ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 22 890 1811, Al. KEN 49, ul. Polna 48, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, C.H. Skorosze, ul. Gen. F. SławojaSkładkowskiego 4, www.sushi77.com.

Open 12:00-23:00. The Sushi 77 chain is surprisingly consistent with the quality of its

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dishes. The Żelazna location is a favourite, with simple decor, friendly service and great sushi. Check out the Ursynów location for noodle dishes too. $$ Sushi Teatr (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 4787, www.sushiteatr.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. This small yet very comfortable restaurant is relaxing in its Zen-like elegance. Great for sharing a platter with a hot date. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00.

The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle. Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent.

While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Tsubame (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 635 8667, www.tsubame.pl.

Open 12:00-23:00. A great place for confidential conversation; frequently empty, the sushi is actually fine, just nowhere near the standard set in their former home on Foksal. $$ Yoko Sushi (Praga) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, (Promenada Mall, 3rd Floor), tel. 22 611 3535, www.yokosushi.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

With a hip-Japan vibe and a cool factor that if off-the-meter, this is a perfect place for metrosexuals and hip urban couples. $$

latin

Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

A lasting legend and an ex-pat darling – not least with the brunch bunch on a sweaty, summer Sunday. Appealing to all ages, this place is as good as ever. The fajitas are DIY

JAPANESE/LATIN/SEAFOOD/DELIS food at its best, and taste all the better with a jug of margarita. $$ Carmona (B2) ul. K. Chodkiewicza 3, tel. 22 414 1919, www.carmona.pl. Open 8:00-23:00. Set in an increasingly happening section of new money Mokotów, find the daily tapas chalked up on a blackboard inside a modern interior featuring midnight colors and top-to-bottom windows.

Worth the look if you’re next door. $ Cuatro Caminos ul. Grzybowska 2, tel. 22 493 8748, www.cuatro-caminos.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Winning blanket approval for what’s sometimes regarded as the best Spanish choice in Warsaw, Cuatro Caminos feature a scattering of selected mains and some excellent tapas in a prime location for an after-work meet. $$ El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 2340. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is consistently inconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$ El Toro Steakhouse ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, www.eltororestaurant.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Decked with stone cladding, wooden supports and a mural of a Mexican desert scene, El Toro is a valuable discovery for meat loves out there.

There’s seven steaks to saw through, and they reach a hefty zł. 157 for the Porterhouse. A whole lot cheaper are the delicious Louisiana Hot Wings, though for fans of the Mex part of Tex-Mex the authenticity is open to discussion. $$ Frida Nowy Świat (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. 691 343 434. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-02:00.

Both the location and the design have been nailed, and while the salsa lacks teeth, the food is slowly approaching the level set by the more established haunts in the Latin class.

Good burgers, as well. $$ Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, www. portucale.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ Tapa y Toro (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Trasy Shopping Mall,

level -1). Open 10:00- last guest. Tapas fans rejoice! With the full range of tastes Tapa y Toro is a great place to peck away on authentic Spanish nibbles, even more so if you bag a seat outside; eye candy heaven.

The only downside seems to be the toilet, a sickly, stinky affair shared with the rest of the mall. $$ Taqueria Mexicana (D4) ul. Zgoda 5, tel. 22 556 4720/22, www.taqueriamexicana.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. This little slice of Mexico serves great fajitas and even better Caesar Salad. Stick with the guacamole. $$ The Mexican (E4) ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 22 826 9021, www. mexican.pl. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri and Sat 11:00-01:00. Style-wise this place is fab, complete with an adobe courtyard and Corona chandeliers. But the authenticity crashes into calamity with the food, which frequently appears as a mysterious gloop served with mashed cabbage. The locals love it. $$

Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option.

Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24Hr pizza delivery options also available.

seafood

Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl.

Deliver to over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers.

Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sense, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory.

specialty food shops

Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl.

Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts). Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus.

Restaurants covered by this mob inc. players such as India Curry, Na Zielnej, Osteria, Papaya and Sakana.

Osteria (D5) ul. Koszykowa 54 (at ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 1646, www.osteria.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. An intimate restaurant with marine-inspired décor and the best seafood in Warsaw, t’s ideal for an energetic business lunch or romantic late-night supper. You can also pick up your seafood to go from their neighboring shop. $$

African Shop ul. Wilcza 51, tel. 507 247 292, www.afroeuro.eu. Beans, beverages, flour and soup thickeners. Hair products and cosmetics also available, and they promise to be bringing in Abyssinian coffee in the near future as well. ‘’Excellent,’’ gushes one Zimbabwean connection.

Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www. biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00.Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. Cash only, with a second branch

in Wilanów (ul. Kostki Potockiego, open Sat 10:00-15:00).

Fish & Chips ul. Koszykowa 30, tel. 692 240 804, www.fishandchips.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:3021:00; Sun 13:00-19:00. British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Internet >> ordering also available.

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EATING OUT Krakowski Kredens Various locations, check: www.krakowskikredens.pl. Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as fantastic hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region.

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www. lafromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00. A bistro/cheese specialist with hard-to-find brands from across Europe.

Also cider, conserves, marmalades and meats imported from Italy and France.

La Petite France ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, www.lapetitefrance.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:3018:00. Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France.

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a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available.

Maho al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www. maho.com.pl. An excellent German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butcher: halal certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl. Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves. BEST WAWA 2011 “Gourmet Grocery” Winner

Le Diplomat ul. Meksykańska 6, tel. 22 616 0539.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-15:00.

Long regarded as the best butcher in town, as well as the number one source for lamb.

MeiAsia ul. Kilińskiego 3, tel. 22 402 13 07, www.meiasia.com.pl. Open 10:00-21:00.

A top Asian spot just off the fringes of Old Town. Featured products from China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Thailand and Singapore. Sauces, noodles, snacks and oils, as well as a small stand with fresh fish and seafood.

Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, www.littleindia.pl. The definitive Indian store which doesn’t look anything more than

Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939.

Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small

deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries.

Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl. A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes.

Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service.

Papryka-Hungarian Store ul. Zwycięzców 22, tel. 22 616 0257, www.papryka-salami.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A Hungarian deli selling wine, meats, preserves and spices.

Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, Sicilian marzipan, coffee from Florence and Olives from Puglia. And not just Italian: find a range of foods from both Spain and France.

Polna Market ul. Polna 13, Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West. And it’s still known as something of a shoppers paradise, with a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butchers (whose happy to accept special orders), and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables.

TOP SHOP Winarium ul. Wierzbowa 3, tel. 22 692 0865, www.winarium.pl. Open 11:0022:00; Sun 11:00-19:00. aunched as a project of passion by actor Marek Kondrat, Winarium has quickly grown to become one of the most established wine stores in Poland – let the existence of twenty nationwide shops be proof of that. The Warsaw flagship has been operating since 2005, trading in the heart of the theater quarter and catering to an educated crowd appreciative of the best. All well and good, but it’s their special packages that earn them a place as our top shop of the month. Whether you’ve got guests scheduled for dinner, or just fancy adding to your collection, visit Winarium to pick up six pre-selected wines in various packages – for instance, a choice of six Argentinean wines for zł. 209. Or a choice of six from four continents for zł. 343. And so on. Just as welcome, you’ll find their summer wines currently set at bargain prices: a case of 12 bottles for a meagre zł. 298.

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GOING OUT Bars, Pubs & Clubs

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Insider’s Pick HOT FIND

PHOTOGRAPH BY CHRISTIAN SWINDELLS

“ As this is supposed to be a high-end place, you do have to wonder why they can’t apparently pay the heating bill”

Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, www.syrenispiew.pl.

Open Sun-Thurs 17:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00.

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f you’ve been to klubokawiarnia Warszawa Powiśle and liked it (which you probably did, as it’s a cracking little spot), a visit to the new venture by the same team, Syreni Śpiew (the Singing of the Mermaid) might sound a good idea. Unfortunately, it isn’t.

While the building might be a particularly fine example of monstrous 70s architecture, inside it’s a fairly bare and empty space downstairs with tables few and far between. Upstairs is a different story but it’s not open most nights, so the best that you can hope for is a stool at the bar or a hugely fashionable and equally uncomfortable replica 70s’ chair.

As this is supposed to be a high-end place, you do have to wonder why they can’t apparently pay the heating bill. OK, so it’s probably less arctic when packed, and the whiskey will keep the cold out but, even so, cold is simply not cool, especially not when the smoking area

consists of ‘outside’. Just keep your coat on.

You really don’t want to dislike a place which keeps some 80 whiskeys in stock, especially when it’s served in a tasting glass with a mini carafe of water. And it’s always good to see places here stocking Penderyn (Welsh whiskey) and Hibiki (Japanese whiskey, probably the world’s best blended whiskey) but neither are pocket friendly at zł. 30 and zł. 55 a shot respectively, especially as that’s only the 12-year Hibiki. Yes the place is aimed at a more ‘exclusive’ crowd (an over 21s policy keeping the riff-raff out) than the average bar but zł.

50 for a Lynchburg lemonade is totally excessive. And don’t let your date pick her own drink, unless you actually want to pay a staggering zł. 75 for a Kir Royal. Things are no better with the beer: Radeburger is usually nice, but not when it’s zł. 25 for a 33cl bottle.

Although the cracking 1920s’ and 1930s’ music might be a hugely refreshing change from the norm, and the choice of whiskeys impressive for this city, at the end of the night this Singing Mermaid leaves you feeling as cold as a stone… and just about as wealthy. (CS) >>

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GOING OUT >>

bars & pubs

Absurd 228 ul. Puławska 228, tel. 22 252 0401. Open Tue-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-20:00.

Upmarket, but with an industrial twist, Absurd could yet emerge as the number one concert venue for alternative sounds. The Mokotów location makes it a gamble, but the live music is popular with creatives.

Bar Tektura (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 702 9647.

Open 12:00-last guest. Here’s a hyper cool haunt with a look anchored by brick and cardboard as the main decorative element (check the ornamental bison’s head), with additional touches including taps for coat hangers and Banksy-style wall art. And creativity is encouraged among the regulars – find pencils and papers on each table. The ‘Polski tapas’ are great, yet not nearly as good as the Estonian cider.

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Bar Warszawa (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, Tel. 504 320 497. Open 24hrs.

A new bar inspired by old times. Creak upstairs to find a womb-like space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations like vintage radios, pics of old stars and black and white images of bare-breasted ladies. Run as a side hobby by a TV producer, the opening hours meet with full approval.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest. The interiors are hip and happening, with walls layered with cult album covers, documentary film posters and a couple pics of military hardware (pointing at Tel Aviv across the road).

Lebanese themed, the beer is nonetheless Lithuanian and Belgian, while the staff have an exotic look and elaborate hair. Brilliant.

Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia). Open 11:00last guest. It’s been five years since Bierhalle tapped their first beer, and in those five years they’ve nailed the market. Fantastic Pils served in a boozy, Bavarian atmopshere, and a decent menu to iron out any hunger issues.

Bratnia Szatnia (C4) pl. Defilad 1, www.bratniaszatnia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Bar, cafe, club, concert space – it’s all those and more. Set in the Palace of Culture, this place has everything from DJs and concerts to tango classes and art happenings. No surprise then to find a crowd of hip, urban media sorts staking claim to the seating.

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Browar de Brasil (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 76/80, tel. 534 600 990, www.browardebrasil.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. As the big, copper vats suggest, they brew their own lager. And well. There’s four to choose from, and they come served by sexy soccerettes dressed in tight Brazil tops.

Featuring scarlet colors and deep, dark woods (a glass floor, even!), this double level bar looks a good bet to break the duopoly of local microbreweries.

Browarmia (C3)  ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. The location alone means it’s never short on footfall. Even so, with Browar de Brasil now open, this microbrewery has slipped further down the local Warsaw beer ladder.

Cafe Kulturalna (C4)  Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, www.kulturalna.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience.

Chłodna 25 (B3)  ul. Chłodna 25/Żelazna 75A, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. A cult bar with arty performances and a battered look. The sense of community is strong here, with thesps, students and musicians gathering on the summer patio to tonk back the Ciechan.

Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754.

Open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest.

Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. Scaremongers and dodgy websites claim this place as closed – lies!

Czysta Ojczysta (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-4:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00.

Here’s a turn up for the books: a Praga bar that doesn’t look infected. Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events

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like bicycle polo.

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Czytadło (C1) ul. Freta 20/24. Open 11:00-last guest. The chilly service borders hostile, and you may find the majority of their beers out of stock.

Outback, past the book lined front room, the smoking room alleviates the gloom.

Flow (D4) ul. Chmielna 2, tel. 519 300 068. Open Sun-Thur 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-last guest.

Undistinguishable from a British high street chain bar, the principal boon here is the massive smoking section. Otherwise it’s negative points all round: from over-priced cocktails to dismal DJs, this place has disaster written on it in big red letters.

Huśtawka (D4) ul. Bracka 20A. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 16:00-last guest. A raw cultish hangout, popular with a non-conformist crowd who know how to party. Allegedly inspired by 80’s New York City, find this labyrinthine late-nighter in a courtyard palace.

Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 502 070 916, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. Open MonThur 18:00-1:00, Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00.Even in an area known for its dive scene Hydrozagadka stands apart as something a little different.

Competition is cutthroat in Praga, but even so this place wins the gong for most dismal interior – congrats. Looking like it’ll fall apart at any given signal, The H earns plaudits for weekends that whizz past in a blur of hedonism.

Irish Pub (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 22 826 2533, www.irishpubmiodowa.pl. Open daily 11:00-last guest. Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night.

Jimmy Bradley’s Irish Pub (C4)  Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 654 6656, www.jimmybradleys.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. A firm ex-pat bulwark, and certainly the best pint of Guinness in the city. Built on a firm foundation of live sports,

BARS & PUBS free-flowing beer and rapid fire banter this is every inch your trademark Irish pub. Come weekend, few places capture the ex-pat spirit better.

Karmnik (D1) ul. Piwna 41, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00-last guest. Complimented by soft, lazy grooves, conversation comes fuelled by a fridge filled to bursting with diverse labels from Łomża and Gniewosz. Rounding out the art-mosphere, find a tubby looking dog nosing happily under tables. Decorated with birdhouses and wobbly plastic seats, it’s further proof that Praga cool has penterated mainland Warsaw.

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Kosmos Kosmos (D6) ul. Koszykowa 55, tel. 602 108 366. Open 11:00-last guest. A large cellar complex decorated with outlandish space murals, orange seats and lego bricks. And in the front, find a kids room complete with a slide. Warsaw’s hipster faction have already attached themselves to it, with the opening drawing a crowd of hundreds milling outside.

Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Dwarfish in size, Kwadrat offers a magnificent selection of quirky beers from the lesser known breweries of backwater Poland. Arty in spirit, but never pretentious, it’s the neighborhood bar you wished you lived next to.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640.

Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background.

Lokal Użytkowy (D1) ul. Brzozowa 27/29, tel. 22 635 6838.

Open Fri-Sat 18:30-23:30. This arty locale features swan white walls, graphic art and red, squeaky chairs from which to enjoy hard-to-find beers from CEE – Svyturys and Noteckie, for instance. It’s almost tempting to stick around for the weird events that unfold. Didgeridoo concert, anyone?

Lorelei (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 605 066 775. Open Sun-Thu

12:00-01:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-05:00. A brill place with black and white interiors touched up with cool lighting and walls layered with comic strip pics. The real plus are the people, an approachable bunch always happy to practice their English.

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Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. Open 17:00-last guest.

It’s early days, but all the signs point to the beginnings of a cult hangout. An exhaustive beer selection is complimented by a cool unfinished look that utilizes a blackboard and jam jars for light fittings. Small, but very nearly always buzzing, the crowd is chiefly trendy over 30s.

Meta (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 826 4513. Open 11:006:00. Decorated with Brezhnev-era leftovers this commie-themed venue has everything from propaganda posters to a string of toilet rolls hanging from the wall. Blend in with the wobbly legged party monsters by mixing Żołądkowa vodka with their special mix, PRL-style orangeade.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps.

Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D2) ul. Nowy Świat 63, tel. 509 643 639.

Open Sun-Thu 11:00-3:00; Fri-Sat, 11:00-5:00.

A student heavy, socialist leaning hangout, where laptops and portfolios are seen as must-have accessories. Pretty vast, but usually packed with hipsters straining to listen to seminars and screenings.

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl.

Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00. Housed on floor 40 of the Marriott Hotel, the Panorama Bar has ditched it’s crass, Dallas style, and gone for a svelte, chic look that wouldn’t be amiss in a VIP club room. A romantic must, and all the better for its dazzling views; you can almost touch the top of the Palace of Culture outside.

Paparazzi (D3)  ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open Mon-Thu 12:001:00, Fri 12:00-2:00, Sat-Sun 18:00-2:00.

Poland’s first cocktail chain, and a market leader to this day. Find a dressed-to-kill crowd of jet set glamour cats prowling the bar, as well as a smoking section that encompasses everything but the entrance.

Pardon To Tu Pl. Grzybowski 12/16. Open 9:00-last guest.

A fab Insider discovery snuck to the side of the Jewish Theater. Doubling as a record shop, find the crimson interiors dusted with album covers, mismatching seats and tilted lampshades. Giving it an extra lift are a knockout beer selection and unpredictable schedule of equally unpredictable live performances: ‘the improvised live music’ is occasionally great.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Plan B is a byword for everything that’s hip and happening in Warsaw. Design doesn’t even come into the equation in this grubby upstairs bar, but the free spirits can’t get enough of it.

Pochwała Niekonsekwencji ul. Grójecka 118, tel. 22 823 1898. Open 10:00-1:00. As avant-garde as they come, you’d expect this sort of place in Praga, not the heart of Ochota. Filled with dog-eared books and contemporary art you’ll find the day’s offers chalked on the blackboard; among them, gourmet beers from obscure, offbeat breweries.

Porto Praga ul. Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www. portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 12:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00.Some of Poland’s best cocktails knocked up by a crew of pros who know their trade inside out.

Looking slinky smooth, PP is a one-stop destination: a top restaurant and bar shaken into one.

Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open 24 hours. Shots of vodka and plates of Polish stomach liners are dispensed inside a mirrored environment with droopy plants. It’s an after club must, with stern service guaranteed from agitated oldies dressed in tuxedos. Packed to the brim come three, four even five am.

Pub Lolek (B8)  ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), entrance from Żwirki i Wigury, tel. 22

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GOING OUT Resort (C2) ul. Bielańska 1, tel. 535 350 997.

Open 12:00-last guest. One of the best designs of 2011, with pretty much all interior features made from reusable materials: seats from shopping trolleys, tables from street signs and a bar from books. Shame about the one dimensional beer choice, therefore.

Saturator (Praga) ul. 11 Listopada 22, 504 353 7772, www.saturator.art.pl. Open 19:00-last guest.

Dirty and daring, nights at Saturator start off quiet before erupting into a full-on party for people of all proclivities. Definitely gives you a taste of Warsaw’s naughty side, with music coming courtesy of figures like DJ Ladyboy and Electrohell.

Sense (D4)  ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest. Design elements include natural stone and cool lighting, though the real draw are the drinks: don’t be swayed by the nay’sayers, Sense is still top of the tree when it comes to Poland’s best cocktails.

BEST WAWA 2011 “Cocktails” Winner Sketch (E4)  ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch. pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00; upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. Cool, sophisticated and fun. The international spread of beers is impressive, practically unbeatable in fact, and served inside edgy minimalist interiors.

SomePlace Else (E5) ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton), tel. 022 450 6707.

Open Mon 12:00-24:00, Tue-Thur 12:00-2:00, Sat 16:00-2:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. SPE have a new cosmopolitan look that makes use of a glowing bar, Minsk grey colours and exposed

HOT FIND

Czeska Baszta Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego. Open Tues-Thurs, Sun 16:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-24:00.

F

irst impressions aren’t kind to Czeska Baszta. Set in one of those towers that prop up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary. So what a surprise to find such a smashing pub lurking behind the clunky metal door (pull hard, then pull a bit harder). Bathed in a yellowish glow, it feels instantly warm and welcoming. And the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk! Not that that’s a surprise. There’s over 80 beers to pick from (inc. three on tap), and they range from the excellent Eggenberg

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piping. Certainly the hippest of the hotel gang, live music and expert cocktails make sure it draws more than the lodgers upstairs.

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Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49. Open Sun-Thur 15:0023:00; Fri-Sat 15:00-1:00. The intimate layout makes use of wobbly antiques, sofas covered in velvety fabrics and weird extras like a mannequin donning a Russian hat with furry, flappy ears. Nights typically involve lots of yet-to-be-famous beers (e.g. Stare Misto from Ukraine), while the lamp-lit toilet, seemingly built into a pre-war fireplace, is like stepping through the looking glass.

Spotkanie z Szpiegiem (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.

You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a

“ In fact, call it the best collection of Czech beer this side of the border”

to the brilliant Bogan. In fact, call it the best collection of Czech beer this side of the border.

Redolent of a steamy Czech tavern, not even the rattle and rumble of the trams overhead overshadows from this beer lovers paradise: here it’s all clinking glasses and good humored banter, as customers squeeze onto benches and seats made from tree stumps. Yes it looks low-rent, and yes, the toilets are a swamp monster affair, but that’s all part of the experience. And it’s made all the more lively by the varied crowd – the diminutive size of the smoking room guarantees conversation, and you’ll find yourself forging blurry friendships with everyone from students to old geezers, to corporate high flyers: why I woke up with a TV producers business card I’ve got no idea... (AW)

PHOTOGRAPH BY BARTOSZ BAJERSKI

>> 825 6202, www.lolekpub.pl. Open daily 11:00-03:00. The outdoor patio is packed in the summer, with the Żywiec flowing and kiełbasa grilling, while in winter a basic timber interior fills out come weekends.

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BARS/JAZZ CLUBS/CLUBS small, rotund room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit.

Szparka (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16A, tel. 22 621 0370.

Open 24hrs. It looks like a generic, city center bar, and while no longer a hip, happening haunt it’s as popular as ever with a middleaged crowd. Set on numerous levels, its open hours alone demand Szparka’s inclusion to any Going Out list.

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Up & Down (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 64. Open 17:00-last guest.

Restaurant upstairs and bar downstairs – it’s for this reason the owner has come up with a brilliant candidate for the most uncreative name of 2012. Little more than a long blue-lit cellar, some may remember this as the home of the legendary Bar Below. Now it’s little more than a long, blue-lit cellar with the anonymous spirit of an airport bar – minus the customers.

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open SunThu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00.

More than just a Tex Mex joint, this is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world.

instead to join the hipsters spread across a host of (smoking) rooms. It’s here Zna Zna comes into its own, with a set of chambers decorated in eclectic retro style – including one room which some would describe as a Ron Jeremy orgy room. Things get hot and sticky on their weekend club nights.

jazz clubs

Jazzarium (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 601 327 634. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-last gues; Sat 18:00-last guest.

Owned by Mariusz Adamiak, Jazzarium is certainly the most serious of Warsaw’s jazz venues, with a reportoire that reflects the proprietor’s standing in the music biz. What looks like a pretty ordinary cafe, transforms the moment there’s a concert.

Wiatraki (D4) ul. Kubusia Puchatka 8, tel. 828 4034.

Open daily 11:00-22:00. A backstreet, Dutch-owned haunt where great snacks and sandwiches are overshadowed only by the beer – find a series of gourmet Benelux beers inside this friendly, two-floor operation.

18/11 Club by Theatro (E4) ul. Foksal 18, www.theatro1811.com. Open Wed-Sat 18:00-6:00. A neon-lit basement space with smashed-glass surfaces and exotic undertones. Expect a top-dollar crowd slinking to the sounds of a bloke called Nobis.

DeLite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub.com.

Open Fri-Sat 21:00-last guest. Exposed brick pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror set-up in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, >>

Tygmont Jazz Club (D3)  ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl. Open daily 16:00-4:00.

For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics. Soulful rhythms and straightforward décor characterize this laid-back music club.

clubs

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Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl. A massive space, sparkly chandelier and Moscow-style, over-the-top décor and regal staircases. Free entry or zł.30 for Hed Kandi events.

Jazzownia Liberalna (D1)  ul. Jezuicka 1/3 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 635 3769. Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This place seems to have it all – location, great music, tasty chic fusion cuisine and prices that won’t intimidate.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.

Located in a former ticket shack, this place is all PRL concrete and peeling signage. Looking cheap and chipboard, visual diversions are limited to frayed posters promoting upcoming bands. Instead, the eye candy comes in the form of the people – a selection of the weird and the weirder lapping up obscure beers as they tap into Macs.

Znajomi Znajomych (D5) ul. Wilcza 58A. Open Sun-Thurs 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-5:00. We’re not sure what kind of design they’ve opted for on the ground level, but either way it doesn’t work. Head upstairs

though you won’t need GPS to track down the lookers.

1500m2 (E3) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. The most talked about dance space of 2010, and further evidence that Warsaw is catching up with Berlin when it comes to urban cool. Decorated with graffiti squiggles and industrial leftovers this warehouse space has acquired a name for dusk-till-dawn electro events.

The Bank (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 14, www.bankclub.pl.

Open Mon-Thur 18:00-24:00; Fri 18:00-06:00; Sat 22:00-6:00. With four bars spread across 1,500 meters of dance space The Bank makes an impression alright. The place is huge,

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GOING OUT >> pretty-in-pink, spaceship interiors. Joining the top table of Warsaw’s other ‘uber klubs’ De Lite gets even better once access to the VIP room is scored.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:004:00. Enklawa borders its glitz on kitsch but every weekend, it manages to draw in big crowds with its lineup of club and pop hits.

The dance floor is always packed, even on weekdays, and it’s a surefire winner as the top Wednesday in town.

VIP gay/straight/confused venue of choice.

Klubokawiarnia (D3) ul. Czackiego 8, www.klubo.pl. Open daily 21:00-last guest. If you ignore the latent fire hazard presented by this basement dive club then a Warsaw stalwart awaits.

Writhing like a can of sweating worms, find a mid-20s party crowd enjoying house sounds inside a scabby looking space with flea bitten pics of Lenin & Co. Enter via a side door in the courtyard gateway and let the battle begin.

The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open WedFri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last guest.

The crowd is smoking hot, with a cutthroat door policy that sees egos crash and burn at the entrance. Run by the same team behind Platinium, the high jinks and capers are best observed from behind the one way mirror in the VIP room.

Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luztro.pl. Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty?

Then check Luztro, a grim, grotty den where rules don’t apply. Embedded in folklore, this after-party legend really kicks off at around 5am, when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the finishing touches to their saucer-eyed stare. Your No. 1 choice for electro and minimal, it’s the full-tilt clubbing experience. Your head will hate you.

Hunters’ (D4) ul. Jasna 1, tel. 606 393 540, www.huntersclub.pl. Open 22:00-6:00.

Rising from the ashes of what was once Utopia is Hunters’, a high-end venue whose entry policy is every bit as daunting as that of the prior occupants. Aimed at a glam, fox-tailed crowd, this basement dance zone features factory grey colours interspersed with murals of tux-clad deer and ornamental mirrors. With nights like Gay Cum Back, it’s very much the

Opera Club (D2) Underground of Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 828 7075, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. A labyrinth of passageways and chambers await in Opera, a subterranean club located underneath the National Theater. Touting an exotic, far eastern look, it’s one of the best designed clubs you could imagine, with a young, slinky crowd lapping up sounds from Warsaw’s upcoming DJs.

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updates

Ósmy dzień tygodnia (G9) ul. Czerska 12, tel. 508 111 221. Open daily 18:00-last guest. A huge, grungey dive club that’s become the latest hit among the unigeneration. Graffiti-clad walls, warehouse trappings and a mega loud sound system complete the look. Entertainment ranges from hip hop sets and avant-garde film, to performances by esoteric bands.

Platinium (D3)  ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, www. platiniumclub.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:00-1:00, Fri 12:00-5:00, Sat 16:00-5:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Space Club (A5) ul. Kolejowa 37/39, tel. 606 617 228, www.club-space.eu. Open Fri-Sat 23:006:00. A true techno club with crazy lights, a great sound system, big name DJs, and lots of room to waggle about and enjoy Ibiza flashbacks.

Sqandal Rynek Starego Miasta 1/3, tel. 602 876 776, www.sqandalbar.pl. Open Tues-Thurs 19:002:00; Fri-Sat 19:00-5:00. Head to Sqandal to jiggle under disco lights alongside buffed boys with their chest puffed out. Over the top glittery interiors compliment the pink and proud crowd.

TILL YOU DROP Boutiques, Fashion & Shopping Malls

THIS MONTH:

* 1 update

SECTIONS fashion. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 62

accessories. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 63

shopping malls. . . . . . . . . . . . p. 64

Insider’s Pick “ In fact, the roster of designers here is unbelievably impressive”

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WOLF BRACKA

HOT FIND

Vitkac - Wolf Bracka ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-21:00.

W

arsaw had been waiting for an eternity for its very own luxury department store. And suddenly, it just appeared on the horizon, a shadowy black cube hovering like a visitor from the Cosmos.

We’d all seen this massive glass cube go up bit by bit, but no one really knew what it was meant to be. Until they splashed a big Gucci logo across the side and Warsaw’s New Year’s resolution came true – to indulge a bit more in luxury goods. After all, Poland’s the only country in Europe that hasn’t (yet?) been pummeled by the crisis, so it seems rational that Poles have got the spending power to splurge on a bit of Balenciaga or Galliano.

In fact, the roster of designers here is unbelievably impressive.

You’ve got everyone from Alexander McQueen and Chloe to Martin Margiela and Victor&Rolf… and more than 30 in between. Plus Marc Jacobs – every thirty-something’s darling. My mouth watered at the thought of all that impeccable tailoring. And yet when I

actually approached the building, I was overwhelmed with a flutter of apprehension; I’m not really the sort to drop zł. 10,000 in one sitting.

But I trudged through anyway, wandering around the first floor in a bewildered sort of way, marveling at the fact that only in Poland would you have a Gucci flagship located next to a Diesel - not to nitpick or anything. I spent at least half an hour drooling over everything in the YSL flagship, strolling past the champagne bar and then up the escalator to the open-space setup.

I have to admit, I found it a bit dark and brooding and the oftimagined throngs of millionaires crowding to hand over their platinum cards remains a fantasy that needs a few more years of nurturing. I have to say, though, the salespeople are in ample supply, all ready to assist in the luxury experience. Only I was just browsing that day and felt the eyes fixed in my direction a bit off-putting. Perhaps they thought I was a shoplifter?

Even so, it’s still a great start for the evolution of the upscale retail market in Poland, and it won’t be long until it is known as the Polish Harrod’s. Maybe a champagne shopping party or two ought to do it to get the crowds going at Vitkac. (AL) >>

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...TILL YOU DROP >>

fashion

Ania Kuczyńska (E5) ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. .

The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Anna Walker (B6) tel. 22 825 0664, www.annawalker.eu. .

This new atelier comes from Canadian designer Anna Walker. A bright, welcoming showroom houses a collection of stylish gowns for special events and formal occasions.

Blind Cafe Concept Store (D6) ul. Mokotowska 63/100 (courtyard). .

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 13:00-18:00.

This eclectic 50’s-style place is well-stocked with unique pieces for women and cool gadgets for men. A perfect place for those who are looking for something more than a mall for a style fix.

Clue (E3) ul. Solec 101, tel. 22 695 7897, . www.cluefashion.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Clue stocks items from Moschino, ASOS, DKNY, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Cavalli, Steve Madden, Armani, as well as up-and-coming designers, and a number of children’s brands.

Designer Secret Al. Witosa 31 (1st floor, outlet 119), .

CH Panorama, tel. 506 051 048, . www.designersecret.pl. High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with women and men’s apparel from the 2008-2010 collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price. Labels inc. Prada, Smith, McCartney and more.

Emporio Armani (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 7, tel. 22 626 0650. .

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00.

The name speaks for itself. If you’re craving . a bit of Milano style, make sure to stop into the Emporio Armani store, just off the Rondo De Gaulle’a in the center of town.

Ermenegildo Zegna (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7000, . www.zegna.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Everything for the welldressed man, from suits to belts, sportswear and cologne.

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Flaming & Co. (D6) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, . tel. 22 629 0545, www.flaming-co.com.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00.

This concept store, now re-opened on ul.

Mokotowska after renovation work, brings a fresh seaside breeze to Warsaw. Also checkout the branch of Flaming & Kids on . ul. Mokotowska.

Green Store (D4) ul. Chmielna 30, tel. 606 147 336, . www.gestablishment.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. The breakthrough fashion stars from Praga have opened their first boutique in Centrum, featuring their signature funky styles and accessories from Prada, Miu Miu and Gucci in a very cool space.

Joanna Klimas (B2) ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, . www.joannaklimas.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00. One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom.

Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion.

Justyna Chrabelska (by appt) (E6) tel. 502 437 200, info@justynachrabelska. com, www.justynachrabelska.com. One of Warsaw’s most talented designers runs her own showroom in the center solely by appointment. With stylish, feminine dresses or funky contemporary dresses each season, this is the place to score the perfect dress, whether you’re a celebrity or just want to dress like one.

L’Aura (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho.

Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 (courtyard), tel. 22 492 7409, . www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

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Lilla Moda (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, Klif www.lilla.com.pl. .

Here you’ll find exclusive Italian clothing brands, including Versace Jeans, Just Cavalli, GF FERRE, D&G, EXTE and Liu Jo. Loding Shoes and Shirts (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, 1st Floor, tel. 22 541 3774, www.loding.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. The respected French shirtand-shoemaker recently opened its first shop in Warsaw. The place to go for top-of-the-line shirts, cufflinks and made-to-order dress shoes for the well-dressed man.

Luxury & Liberty (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, . ul. Ostrobramska 75C. Open Mon-Sat 10:0021:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. The Luxury bar on . ul. Nowy Świat went bankrupt in about a minute. But its fashion counterpart managed to come back in style with a sprawling new boutique in the Promenada shopping centre.

While the location’s a bit inconvenient, the selection of quality designer gear at L&L and other shops makes it well worth the trip.

Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, . www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom.

Max Mara ul. Nowy Świat 1. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Poland’s first Max Mara mega store, with interior designed by Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Find all the latest from .

Max Mara Runway and the Max Mara Atelier coat collection, as well as Sportmax Runway and a growing range of in-house accessories.

Mokobelle ul. Wilcza 3 (entrance from Mokotowska 54), tel. 508 010 204. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. An eclectic collection of Polish jewelry, along with pieces from worldclass names like Rodrigo Otazu.

Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, . tel, 22 827 7099, office@moliera2.com, . www.moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, .

Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain.

FASHION/ACCESSORIES Muji (A1) Arkadia Mall (lok 23 A), Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 356 1039, www.muji.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, store@ plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo.

Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories.

Premiere (A2) Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710. The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace.

Redford and Grant (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, www.redfordandgrant.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00.

This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and

accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada.

Reykjavik District ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, . www.reykjavikdistrict.com. Open Tues-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. Chic, wellcut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Rodrigo de la Garza (Ochota) ul. Bema 65, suite 6; www.delagarza.it.

Opening hours: by appointment. Rodrigo de la Garza is an eponymous menswear label started up by an ambitious young man from Mexico who’s happened to opt for Poland as his home base. The designer’s speciality is custom-made, or bespoke suits, ideally cut and in all the styles and patterns you could possibly conjure up.

Rudolf & Co. (by appointment only) tel. 790 604 634, . www.rudolfco.com. A team of six tailors, the selection of which took some four years to finalise, sews items in-house. A darling of local press, with bespoke suits a specialty.

Simple (Various Locations) Klif, Arkadia, Sadyba, Blue City and Galeria Mokotów (see site for more locations and opening hours), tel. 22 531 4500 (Klif), . www.simple-cp.com. This original Polish brand has risen up the ranks over the past 15 years to become one of the most stylish

labels on the market. Just the place to find minimalist pieces for the office or more . daring dresses for the evening for a reasonable price-quality ratio.

accessories

400 Rabbits (E6) ul. Mokotowska 24, tel. 22 629 2636, . www.rs-store.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. This is more than just a sneaker shop. Art, sport and fashion unite in this funky space.

Bagatt (E6) ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 621 9144. .

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.

Bagatt features Italian-made footwear. A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Pl. Trzech Krzyży.

Batycki (various locations) ul. Zgoda 9 & ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Bristol Hotel), tel. 22 828 2167, . www.batycki.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00. Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite.

Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, . ul. Ostrobramska 75C, tel. 22 611 3814. You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock >>

reykjavík district “The clothes are chic, cut well and there is a bit of everything for everyone...”

Warsaw Insider chose reykjavik district as their shop of the month (12.2011)

Boutique: Solec 18/20 street, +48 505 499 669 Open: Tue-Fri 13:00-19:30; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00 www.reykjavikdistrict.pl

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...TILL YOU DROP >> up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry.

Church’s (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00.

A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes.

Elf Joy by Kasia Kucharska (by appt) tel. 792 793 729, www.elfjoy.com. Kasia Kucharska travels all over the world to find stones that she turns into brilliant hand-made pieces of semi-precious stones, including amethyst, tourmaline and garnett. Available by special order.

Frey Wille (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503, . www.frey-wille.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Vienna-based jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals.

Furla (E5) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 3896, www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. The highly-coveted handbag label’s flagship store in Warsaw features all the latest styles from Milan.

Hermitage Boutique (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 1, . tel. 22 323 7676, www.hermitage.pl. Get set to indulge at Warsaw’s most prestigious fine watch and jewelry boutique. Offers a world-class selection of pieces from Girard Perregaux, Chopard, Bvlgari, Blancpain, Chaumet, de Grisogono, Omega, Breitling and Scatolo del Tempo.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, www.mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Hublot Boutique (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 2, tel. 22 821 0101. This luxury boutique features the most coveted timepieces in all the world.

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Lewanowicz Cafe & Boutique Pl. Grzybowski 10, tel. 22 650 0590, www.

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lewanowicz.com. Lewanowicz’s original house collection of precious and semiprecious stones is supplemented by several other designer ranges, including the Ayalabr line from Israel.

Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, www.lilou.pl..

Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista.

home décor & interior design

ego&eco (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35, tel. 22 826 2512. www. egoeco.eu. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. Stocks everything from unique handmade jewellery to pure linen hand towels, traditional honey and organic soaps.

Combines style with an eco-philosophy.

Glamstore (C9) ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), . tel. 22 403 2300, www.glamstore.com.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.

Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line.

Mokotowska 71 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 22 629 0511, . www.mokotowska71.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style. An ideal place for brides-to-be to register, as service in English is available.

MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, NEW CITY building (Mokotów), tel. 22 360 4389, www.moomo.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.

Fun furniture styles and innovative products.

There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian nd European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm.

Numero Uno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, . www.numerouno.pl. Exclusive furniture and fittings with brands including Poggenpohl, Presotto Italia, Calia Italia, EGO zeroventiquattro, Masiero, Bang & Olufsen and Porsche.

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Red Onion (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339; ul.

Szpitalna 8, tel. 22826 0008. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-18:00. www.redonion.pl..

Their new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget.

shopping malls

Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00 Blue City (A6) Al. Jerozolimskie 179, www.bluecity.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Fashion House Outlet Centre (E8) ul. Puławska 42E, www.fashionhouse.pl Galeria KEN Center/ E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, www.eleclerc.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-21:30, Fri 9:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00

Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, . www.klif.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Panorama (G10) Al. Witosa 31, tel. 22 640 1400. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Promenada (Saska Kępa) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, www.promenada.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00 Vitkac Wolf Bracka Wolf Center, ul. Bracka 9, . www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per . sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc.

Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Dries van Noten, Stella McCartney etc…

Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

LIFESTYLE Accommodation, Education and more...

INDEX Accommodation ��������������������������������������������������� p.66 Health and Beauty ������������������������������������������������ p.68 Community Contacts �������������������������������������������� p.70 Medical ���������������������������������������������������������������� p.69 Education ��������������������������������������������������������������p.73 Transportation ������������������������������������������������������ p.67

Insider’s Pick HOT FIND

Oh la la ul. Bracka 22 lok 12, tel. 696 858 484, www.ohlala.pl.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF OH LA LA

Y

“ It was like being back on the monkey bars on the playground, only sexier, of course”

es, I’ve done it, I’ve taken a pole dancing class.

Pole dancing has got quite a dirty rep – understandably so – but then again, it certainly gets the attention of the average male quicker than anything, even football. So as they say, if you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em and that’s exactly what I did.

There are a few dancing schools in Warsaw that offer pole dancing, but Oh la la is the most central and its earned a celebrity status from the beginning.

The well-designed, minimalist space is classy and welcoming. Each studio is clean and comfortable. My misgivings faded immediately as I joined a group of six other girls and a very fit instructor. These girls are no joke, they’re sexy, but really strong as well. You’ve got to be if you’re going to use your arms to pull your body up above your head while holding on to a bar – plus look hot doing it.

I’ve been a dancer ever since I started ballet lessons at nine. So I couldn’t believe how awkward I felt trying to wind my body across the pole. Every step was a misstep, I had to forget all that I’d learned and allow my body to take on a whole new rhythm – a more natural rhythm that was coded somewhere in the area of my hips. I just had to learn to let go. Bit by bit, I got better and better. I stopped worrying and by the end I managed a little shimmying twirl around the pole that was absolutely thrilling. It was like being back on the monkey bars on the playground, only sexier, of course.

Oh la la offers a range of classes, from straight-up Pole Dancing to traditional Broadway Jazz, plus a more serious Flex & Strong course and naughtier classes like Dirty and Burlesque. Burlesque is led by a charming young woman who’s Warsaw’s answer to Dita von Teese: sweet, sultry and full of confidence. Which is the secret, really, to feeling good about yourself and making a good impression. When it’s cold outside, it’s really great to heat things up in the dance studio and do a little practicing at home to beat those winter blues. (AL)

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LIFESTYLE >>

Accommodation

Some hotel prices might not include VAT

APARTMENTS, HOTELS

­top hotels in Warsaw 5-star hotels

Hilton Warsaw (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, www.hilton.com. Single and double room €95-125 (weekend), €135 (weekdays). Excellent services and amenities in a world-class hotel and conference centre. Holmes Place Lifestyle Club offers premium fitness facilities.

Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, www.warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. Venti Tre Italian Restaurant, Q Club Restaurant and Bar, Club Oasis Fitness Centre, indoor swimming pool, spa & massage services. Offical base of Poland’s Euro 2012 football team.

InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Single & double rooms: €95-155. Riverview Wellness Centre and swimming pool on top floor.

Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com.

Single room: €129-159, double room: €139-169. Fitness centre, gym, swimming pool, sauna.

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, www.mamaison.com. Muffle up for an evening prowl around old town, before spoiling yourself inside the desginer confines of this boutique masterpiece. Prices start from approx. €115, but it’s well worth your time browsing their ‘romantic break’ and ‘just married’ packages.

www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Top-class boutique hotel in the centre of Warsaw. Single room: €140, double room: €170, apartment: €220.

24-hour fitness centre for guests only.

Sheraton (E5) ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw, tel. 22 450 6100. Single & double rooms: €77126. Fitness centre, aerobic studio, sauna.

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Single & double rooms zł. 420-490 (weekend rate from zł.250). First Class Fitness Centre.

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Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.pl. Airport Hotel Okęcie is located 800 m from Warsaw Frederic Chopin Airport. Single & double rooms: €155, €123 (weekdays). Single & double rooms: €70-80 (weekends). Jacuzzi, sauna, tennis courts, and gym.

3-star hotels Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €95200. Swimming pool now open to the public.

Westin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw. Single & double rooms: €77-126. Gym and sauna.

4-star hotels Radisson Blu (B5) pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Single & double rooms €60-94. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.

Holiday Inn (C4) ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com. Single room: €100 (weekend), €124 (weekdays), double room: €120 (weekend), €144 (weekdays). Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.­ Mercure Grand Warszawa (D4) ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl.

Single & double rooms: €78-112.

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Single & double rooms: €135 (weekdays), €99 (weekend).

Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.marriott.com/wawpl Single & double rooms: zł. 528 (weekdays), zł. 376 (weekend). Novotel Warszawa Centrum (D5) Gym and swimming pool. ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com.

The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) Single and double rooms: zł.265-480. ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, Wellness centre and sauna.

Polonia Palace Hotel (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com. Single & double rooms: €60–235. 24-hour fitness centre for hotel guests only.

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Hotel Belwederski (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl. Single room: zł. 240, double room: zł. 280. On weekends 20% discount (Fri-Mon). Breakfast included.

Castle Inn (D1) Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl.

Single & double rooms (Standard castle view): zł.190-290. Deluxe apartments: zł.

279-430. Breakfast: zł. 20. Artsy boutique accomodation on the castle square.

Golden Tulip (B5) ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500. Single & double rooms: Mon.-Fri. zł. 369, weekend: zł.

299, breakfast (buffet): zł. 32. Sauna, jacuzzi, fitness room.

Warsaw Gromada Hotel Airport ul. 17-ego Stycznia 32, tel. 22 576 4600, warszawa.airport@gromada.pl. Single & double rooms: zł. 250-420 (weekdays), single & double rooms: zł. 200-330 (weekends). Sauna, gym, free for hotel guests.

Hotel Reytan (E8) ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www. reytan.pl. Single room: zł. 360 (week), zł. 250 (weekend). Double room: zł. 390-550 (week), zł. 270-390 (weekend). Breakfast included.

Mercure Warszawa Fryderyk Chopin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 22, tel. 22 528 0300, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €90100. Swimming pool, fitness room, massages, Finnish sauna, gym, power plate. Enjoy it while you can closing soon!

ACCOMMODATION/TRANSPORT Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000, nov.airport@orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €120-135. Swimming pool, jacuzzi, tennis court, Finnish sauna, power plate.

top hotels around Poland

Kraków 5-star hotels

Hotel Stary ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. 12 421 4865. Single & double rooms €245-275. Sauna, fitness centre, Spa & Wellness centre, indoor swimming pool, salt cave, roof top bar.

4-star hotels Hotel Pod Różą ul. Floriańska 14, tel. 12 424 3300. Single & double bedrooms €187-207. Sauna, fitness centre, hiking.

Kazimierz Dolny

Król Kazimierz ul. Puławska 86, tel. 81 880 9999, www.krolkazimierz.pl. Grand four star hotel. Available activities include bowling, billiard, a full featured spa, a bar and a night club.

Jaczno 3, Jeleniewo, tel. 87 568 3590, www.jaczno.pl, jaczno@jaczno.pl.

Single & double rooms zł. 210-330. Apartments zł. 350-490. Luxurious chalet-style lodge offering biking, fishing, hiking, steam & Finnish sauna, fitness club.

For more information check out page 17.

Northeast Poland

apartments & real estate

Hotel Zamek Ryn Plac Wolności 2, Ryn, tel 87 429 7000, www.zamekryn.pl. This impressive hotel, perched on a hill by an idyllic lake, is perfect for group flings like annual company gatherings, and other mass bonding celebrations such as weddings and anniversaries. As the name suggests, you will be checking into a atmosperic converted castle that is supposedly haunted.

Gościniec Jaczno (Jaczno Lodge) (Suwałki Lakes district)

E-Expert

WARSAW REAL ESTATE & MORTAGE ADVISE

E-Expert Nieruchomości Kredyty Inwestycje ul. Kopernika 28/1, tel. 606 630 300, www.e-expert.org. Real-estate advisory services for rent and purchase of premium properties across Warsaw, as well as investment advisory for developments across Poland and mortgage servicing for locals and expats.

Transportation GETTING AROUND

car rental

Avis (C5) tel. 22 572 6565, fax 22 572 6566, Fredrick Chopin Airport, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 650 4872/3.

Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl.

Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1,

tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360. Reservations: tel. 22 500 1620, 800 143 789.

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, fax 22 511 1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, fax 022 650 2032, www.sixt.pl.

Trust Rent a Car (C12) ul. Konstruktorska 4, mob. 0602 475 355, www.trustrentacar.pl.

relocation companies AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702-1072, fax 022 702-1077.

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LIFESTYLE >> Besto Relocations ul. Kłobucka 8 /127, tel. 22 847 8878, mob. 514 643 286, warsaw@bestorelocations.com, www.bestorelocations.com. High-quality international relocation services to and from Poland for corporate and individual clients.

CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com.

Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com.

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, moving@euromove.pl, www.euromove.pl.

Crown Relocations ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 894 5929 or 22 578 2093, www.crownrelo.com.

Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, fax 22 701 7177, warsaw@interdean.com, www.interdean.com. Some 47 offices in 35 countries which facilitate easing the transition across borders.

DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/17, tel. 22 670 4280, www.duxconsulting.com.pl.

Move One Relocations tel. 22 630 8160, poland@moveonerelo.com, www.moveonerelo.com.

travel agency

FCm Travel Express al. Jana Pawła II 19, tel. 22 453 5353, travelexpress.pl.

taxis

Bayer tel. 22 19697 Ele Taxi tel. 22 811 11 11 City Taxi tel. 22 19459 Damel tel. 22 19626 Glob Taxi tel. 22 19668 Grosik Taxi tel. 22 6464646 Merc tel. 22 677 7777 MPT tel. 22 1919 OK Taxi tel. 22 19628 Sawa tel. 22 644 4444 Super Taxi tel. 22 19622 Volfra tel. 22 19625 Wawa tel. 22 19644

Health & Beauty BODY AND MIND

spas & salons

AcuMed Asian Therapies ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355 100, www.tuina.pl. Qigong – Daoyin – Meditation in small groups. Also offers special exercises for improving physical & mental health and increasing energy.

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160, www.bodyclinic.pl. Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

The Cutting House – Exclusive Hairdressing (E5) ul. Wiejska 20, www.cuttinghouse.pl, tel. 22 622 6362. The Cutting Salon has an elegant polish on a contemporary design and a wide variety of celebs, diplomats and your run-ofthe-mill fashionista dropping in for a trim or a manicure. You will not be disappointed.

Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, 22 898 7272, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher East, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage, as well as all the other more typical spa services.

Dior Institute and Dessange Beauty Salon Metropolitan Building, pl. Piłsudskiego 1,

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tel. 22 331 0808, www.diorinstitut.com.

This sleek boutique offers a state-of-the-art treatment room and professional staff for all your pampering needs.

www.hairclubwarsaw.pl. Hair Club dispense with the farce and make your hair look great.

They also provide manicures and pedicures and even throw in a decent free coffee.

Fabryka Próżnosci ul. Cecylii Śniegockiej 8 lok.101, tel. 22 312 1909, www.fabrykaproznosci.pl.

Has a full suit of facials, massages (all the main schools are represented); competitive prices, and plenty of English-speaking therapists.

Izar Repechage ul. Molera 1, tel. 22 827 7195, www.repechage. net.pl. A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatment for the whole body.

Fish Spa ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 22 414 3737, www.fishspainstytut.pl. Let 200 Garra Rufa fish do the work on your pedicure and manicure. Alternatively, enjoy more traditional (ie. less fishy) facials and body massages – all at reaonable prices in the heart of the center.

Hair-a-Porter (E8) Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -1, tel. 22 558 1555. The friendly staff provides full-service hair and nail treatments for men and women.

Hair & Nail Concept ul. Marynarska 50, tel. 22 360 40404, www.hairandnailconcept.pl. Top class hair & nail care, as well as a créche and disabled facilities.

Hair Club Warsaw ul. Kruczkowskiego 6, tel. 22 828 0288,

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Le Spa (E5) ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428.

This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

Multico Wellness & Spa ul. Bitwy pod Rokitną 1 (in Old Żoliborz), tel. 22 869 9631, www.multico.pl. A modern fitness center and gorgeous pool make this a chic place to work out and relax. Now offers spa services and great massages.

Pearl Spa at the InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, 43 floor, tel. 22 328 8643, www.pearlspa.pl. This bright and full of windows spa has an eclectic menu of “body rituals” such as the Maghreb ritual and Ayurvedic massages.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, www.jejijego.pl. Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

BEAUTY/MEDICAL fitness clubs

Club Oasis Fitness Centre & Spa (E8) Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 22 851 0563, www.cluboasis.pl. Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw, with state-of-the-art machines, great pool and Zen-like ambiance.

Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel (E8) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Fitness club, swimming pool, sauna, gym, group classes in one of Warsaw’s best five stars. zł.100 per day.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel (E5) ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton. com/warsaw. Fitness center, aerobic studio, sauna. Price: zł. 3,420/year.

Holmes Place Lifestyle Club at the Hilton Hotel (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 630 6306, www.holmesplace.pl. Premium fitness and leisure centre that offers a wide and diverse range of activities, top quality training equipment and expert staff. Holmes Place also operates two more Energy Clubs in Galeria Mokotów and Arkadia.

RiverView Wellness Centre at the InterContinental Hotel (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8640, www.riverview.com.pl. Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the pool has a panoramic view of the city. Free for hotel guests.

World Class Health Academy (B4) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, www.worldclass.pl.

Mon-Fri 6:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 8:00-21:00.

Situated inside Warsaw’s Marriott hotel, World Class Health Academy offers all the fitness services you need.

Medical

EMERGENCIES, CLINICS

Medical private clinics

AcuMed Asian Therapies – Traditional Medicine Clinic ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355 100. www.tuina.pl. Holistic treatment of spinal, headaches, stress, pains, allergies.

sure, herbal medicines, and medical massage for complete health.

Aster Med ul. Sw. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl. Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists

and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

Centrum Damiana ul. Wałbrzyska 46, ul. Foksal 3/5, al. K.E.N 103, tel. 22 566 2222, www.damian.com.pl.

Citident ul. Młynarska 26/28, tel. 22 862 4770, www.citident.pl.

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Austria-Dent-Center (B4) ul. Żelazna 54, tel. 22 654 2116, www. austriadent.pl.

Centrum Pomocy Profesjonalnej (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 80, floor 21, room 129, Babka Tower, tel. 22 637 4080; ul. Puławska 257 (floor 1, suite 71), Melody Park, tel. 22 241 2444, www.cpp.eu.

Dentalux ul. Racławicka 131, tel. 22 823 7222, www. dentalux.pl.

Margaret Rybak, Psy.D. ul. Lipska 27/24. US-trained doctoral level psychologist. APA member. Specialises in individual psychotherapy for adults and children. For more information: www.mrybak.waw.pl, mob. 0606 518 151.

Well Now Dental Clinic (Wilanów) ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 2A, tel. 22 403 8800, www.wellnow.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-20:30, Sat 9:30-14:30.

private clinics

ARUMED Arumed Oriental Medical Center, ul.Noakowskiego 8, tel. 22 825 93 96.

The OMC doctors offer acupuncture, acupres-

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LIFESTYLE >> Enel-Med Medical Centre Atrium Plaza, Al. Jana Pawła II 29; Arkadia (A1), Al. Jana Pawła II 82; Blue City, Al. Jerozolimskie 179; www.enel.pl General number for information and to schedule an appointment: tel. 022 311 7777.

Eurodental ul. Nowowiejska 37, tel. 22 857 0088, www.eurodental.pl.

Lim Medical Center Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (C5), ul. Domaniewska 41, ul. 17-ego Stycznia 49, Al. Jana Pawła II 78, tel. 22 458 7000, www.cmlim.pl.

Lux Med Medical Clinics ul. Racławicka 132b, ul. Chmielna 85/87; ul. Puławska 15; ul. Kopernika 30 (E4); ul. Szernera 3; Al. Jerozolimskie 162; 24hr hotline: 801 800 808, for mobile users: tel. 22 332 2888, www.luxmed.pl.

Vertebralia ul. Postępu 6, tel. 22 449 2828, www.vertebralia.pl. A clinic specializing in the integrated treatment of all kinds of spinal illness. With 20 years of experience, they perform innovative treatments with state-ofthe-art equipment.

Medicover Center Atrium, Al. Jana Pawła II 27, ul. Inflancka 5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. 18, ul. Domaniewska 37, ul. Puławska 278, ul. Poligonowa 3. Hotline: 19 677 or 500 900 500, Medicover Hospital on Al. Rzeczypospolitej 5 in Wilanów tel. 500 900 900, www.medicover.com.

24-hour pharmacies Al. Jana Pawła II 52/54 Al. Solidarności 149, tel. 22 620 0818. ul. Wilcza 31, tel. 22 834 5804. ul. Grójecka 76, tel. 22 822 2891. ul. Puławska 39 ul. Zeromskiego 13

Community Contacts GET CONNECTED

Alcoholics Anonymous for Foreigners Based on the traditional AA format, in Warsaw meetings take place on ul. Radna, buzzer #3.

Group meets Mon, Tues, Thurs 18:00 and Sat 11:00 (except the first Saturday of the month).

American Friends in Warsaw AFW offers a variety of social activities, family events and ‘hands-on’ outreach programs supporting vital needs in our host country.

For more information: info@afw.waw.pl.

Amnesty International ul. Piękna 66a, apartment no. 2, 1st floor; tel/fax: 22 827 6000; e-mail: amnesty@ amnesty.org.pl. Donations can be made to Zachodni WBK S.A. 6 O/Gdańsk 85 1090 1098 0000 0000 0959 0181.

Art Friends’ Society For info, contact Justyna Napiórkowska: e-mail: justyna@napiorkowska.pl, mob.

0603 378 567.

Blanc Lys (Wola) ul. Księcia Janusza 23, tel. 508 162 810, www.blanc-lys.com. The first self-service laundromat in Warsaw, open daily 08:0020:00. Free wi-fi.

Bread of Life (Chleb Życia) ul. Nowogrodzka 6, www.chlebzycia.org.pl.

Sells items made by both the homeless and women fleeing domestic violence. If you’re interested in the work of the Bread of Life, or would simply like to sponsor a student, email Elizabeth via iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com.

Cumann Warszawa Gaelic Football Team

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Poland’s first Gaelic football team is up and running. The club offers weekly training, competitive games against other European GAA opposition and regular social events and is open to players and members from all nationalities. For more information contact Eoin 518 425 587 or cumannwarszawa@gmail. com.

Dharma Yoga in English. It’s well worth visiting the English/ Polish website for more information on the specific practices of this type of yoga, the offers at hand for first-time students as well as sneaking a peak at the photo journalism of key practitioner, Sabina Steckiewicz’s travels around India. Find out more at: www.dharmayoga.pl.

business competition getting in-between.”

For further information, please contact Richard Whipple (Founder), tel. 504 346 406.

European Social Democrats in Poland Contact Tim Clapham at tel. 22 624 0470, timclapham@poczta.onet.pl or Jean-Yves Leconte at mob. 0604 960 555, jy.leconte@ assemblee-afe.fr.

The Ex-Animo Foundation An organization that helps care for young cancer patients at the Children’s Memorial Health Institute - the largest children’s oncology center in Poland. www.exanimo.pl.

Expats-in-Poland.com Forum, news, free legal advice, extensive information and services for foreigners including immigration, work permits, driving Dr Clown Foundation licences, renting and buying properties, ul. Goszczyńskiego 9, www.drclown.pl. healthcare, education and more. For more Provide Patch Adams-style entertainment to kids in 68 hospitals and clinics across Poland. information: www.expats-in-poland.com.

Further info: tel. 22 854 0501, 02 or 03.

Expatriates Services PFF ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11. Offers English Speaking Book Club services for foreigners coming to Poland, We meet once a month in Ganders Teahouse including obtaining residence & work permits, (ul. Francuska 12). The meetings provide a good opportunity for stimulating discussions visas, setting up business activities as well and for those new to Warsaw - a chance of as legal services and support for foreign meeting people in a very relaxed setting. investors and business entities. For more There are no membership fees. For more info, information: tel. 22 828 1501, www. contact: marzena.reich@gmail.com. pff-warsaw.com.

The English-Speaking Expatriate Business Owners in Poland Association This non-profit association serves a niche group of expatriates within the framework of “expat CEOs helping expat CEOs without

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Food Banks All thirty food banks operating in Poland deliver food aid to those in need – as many as 5 million people. To donate food or get involved go to www.bankizywnosci.pl.

COMMUNITY Foundation for Poland This is a charity organization that reaches out to street children and other youths. They also manage a number of other projects. For more information: www.fdp.org.pl.

Friends Creative Activities ul. 334 Przyczółkowa, tel. 22 642 0843, www.friends-ca.pl.Handicraft workshops for both kids and adults alike. Come and visit our world of creative activities and share your passion with us...

helps the working poor build and afford their own houses. For more information: ul. Idzikowskiego 2/16, tel. 22 642 9520, poland@habitat.pl, www.habitat.pl.

tools for understanding and accepting a new social environment. Meetings take place at the end of every month at Mabor headquarters. Cost per session zł.100. For info, contact Anna Osinski at: a.osinska@mabor.com.pl.

International Rotary Club The only English speaking Rotary Club in Warsaw. Visiting Rotarians are welcome to join the weekly meetings held at the Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45. For info: tel.

601 897 731.

Frogs & Co. Warsaw’s expatriate men’s rugby team, trains Saturdays from 12:00 at Skra Stadium, ul. Wawelska 5. For more information: Christian, mob. 0502 198 782.

International Women’s Group of Warsaw Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are generally held on the second and fourth Monday of the month.

For more info email iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com.

Fundacja Dziecięca Fantazja Poland’s own “Make-A-Wish Foundation” focus to “light up the lives” of terminally-ill children in Poland by making their fondest wishes and dreams come true. More info at: email: info@f-df.pl, www.f-df.pl.

Italiani in Polonia ul. Dąbrowskiego 82C, tel. 22 845 0652, www.italianiinpolonia.org. The biggest Italian community group in Warsaw. Hosts regular social gatherings, lectures and special events for members.

Fundacja Świętego Mikołaja ul. Przesmyckiego 40, Piaseczno, tel. 22 825 0390. The St. Nicholas Foundation has been contributing funds to needy children and families for over ten years. To support the foundation, wire funds to Volkswagen Bank Polska S.A. 64 2130 0004 2001 0299 9993 0001 (KRS 0000126602). www.mikolaj.org.pl.

The Kurt Scheller Academy (D6) Offers top-standard cooking lessons. For more information: ul. Piękna 68, tel. 22 626 8092, akademia@schelleracademy.com.pl.

Habitat for Humanity International (F11) This is a non-profit organization that

Mabor Acculturation Services Expatriates feeling a bit of “culture shock” in Poland can find refuge at Mabor. The organization hosts 2-hour meetings led by a trained cultural psychologist that help members with the adaptive acculturation process, providing

New Europe Writers Ink (D5) A fellowship of writers creating poetry and prose fiction in English. For more information: ul. Marszałkowska 80, mailbox 151, editor@ new-ink.org, www.new-europe-writers-ink.com.

Pol-in.pl – Professional Expat Assistance Information and services for foreigners such as: residence permit, visas, work permit, real estate, money transfer (Western Union), car rental and more. Info: www.pol-in.pl.

Professionals in Warsaw Hosts meetings in the city to link up professionals, those new to Warsaw, or those here for the long haul. For more info contact Andy (mob. 691 535 566) or the group page on Facebook.

Role Playing Group in Warsaw International English-speaking group in Warsaw, mostly foreign professionals, play tabletop Dungeons & Dragons fortnightly.

No experience necessary but fluent English proficiency is required. Info: CreativeCowboy@yahoo.com.

St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl. The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, >>

JOIN US NOW !

www.thelittlegym.pl Parent/Child Classes

Pre-school

Primary School Gymnastics

Holiday Camps

Birthday parties

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LIFESTYLE >> which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year.

Talizman The Talizman Foundation is a non-profit registered charity.

More information: www.talizman.org.

Taste of the Classics A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations. The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English. Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine.

To request an invitation or for further information please contact Richard Berkeley: berkeley@fnok.pl or tel. 502 965 353.

Toastmasters International (E5) Toastmasters Polska club invites all to the weekly meetings, to master the art of Public Speaking and presentation skills. Meetings every Wednesday at 19.00 in the Warsaw Stock Exchange, Catalyst room 1st floor, ul. Książęca 4. Guests are most welcome with no commitment other than a short introduction. More info at toastmasters.org. pl or ring Etan at tel. 696 292 451.

TravelFriends.pl TravelFriends.pl is a community travel portal designed for anyone who’s up for meeting new people, whether it’s searching for travel companions or roommates, finding a partner, spicing up your free time, or just widening your circle of friends. For

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further information, contact Beata Sieradzka at info@travelfriends.pl, Visit their website at www.travelfriends.pl.

Warsaw Beavers Warsaw’s first expatriate ice hockey team trains Thursday and Sunday nights. For more information, contact Randy Gabrielson 606 247 347 or e-mail to: warsawbeavers@gmail. com.

The Warsaw School of Photography A leading private institution in Poland offering photography courses in English for beginners and intermediate, theory, practice and field trips. For more information: www.wsfoto.art. pl/english.

children

theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun.’

Mums & Tots Brings together expat mothers, toddlers and babies for various activities. For more information: postmaster@mumsandtots.com, www.mumsandtots.com.

houses of worship

Masses held in different languages in Warsaw: English ul. Radna 14, every Sunday, 11:30 (CCD, every Sunday, 10:30) Italian ul. Smoluchowskiego 1, every Sunday, 12:00.

Little Chef Cooking classes for children age 4-16.

Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cookand-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English, French and Polish, Mon-Sat. Visit www.littlechef.pl or call 0501 093 691 for more information.

Spanish (D8) ul. Melsztyńska 12, every Sunday, 10:40.

The Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym. pl. Over 300 locations worldwide, with the Warsaw one set to open this November.

Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio and a ‘weekly

Anglican and Episcopal Church Meets every Sun. at 10:00 in Res Sacra Miser Church (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 62).

Sunday school during service, refreshments after service. For more information: Rev. Robert Campbell, mob. 602 782 497 assistant.chaplain@anglicanchurch.pl, or visit www.anglicanchurch.pl.

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French (D8) ul. Rakowiecka 61, every Sunday, 10:45.

German (E5) ul. Żytna 11, every Sunday,10.30.

COMMUNITY/EDUCATION The Bahá’i Community of Warsaw (D5) Centrum Narodowe/National Centre, ul. Lanciego 13, tel. 22 353 3717. For more information: www.bahai.org.pl or bahai@ bahai.org.pl.

Polish and English. Sun 11:00 (Sunday School and Evangelistic service) and Thurs 19:00. For more information contact: Pastor Paul Sock, mob. 500 270 990, e-mail: paulesock@yahoo.com. www.gbc-ekb.com.

Beit Warszawa: The Progressive Jewish Congregation Friday Shabbat services at 19:00, weekly lectures, activities and holiday events.

For more information: 22 885 2638; fax 22 885 8982, e-mail: office@beit.org. pl, www.beit-warszawa.org.pl.

International Christian Fellowship (E10) Interdenominational services Sunday 17:00 at ul. Puławska 114. For more information: Pastor Roy Taylor at mob. 607 309 490, pastorroy.icf@gmail.com, www.icf-pl.org.

Chabad-Lubavitch ul.Słomińskiego 19, tel. 22 637 5352, www.chabad.org.pl. The Outreach Activities of the Chabad-Lubavitch center include adult education classes, Jewish youth programs and a Talmud Torah. The center’s Glatt Kosher Restaurant offers daily Glatt Kosher meals.

Gospel Baptist Church ul. Grochowska 324/8 (Praga), tel. 500 270 990. Services are held in

Nożyk Synagogue (C4) ul. Twarda 6, tel. 22 620 0676, 22 620 4324, www.jewish.org.pl. Services Mon-Fri 8:00 and at sunset, Sat and Sun 9:30 and at sunset. Shabbat dinners Friday at the Youth Centre.

Polish Christian Church: Christian Fellowship “North” (F1) Provides services translated into English and German. Sunday school for children aged 3-13, baby and toddler care, youth meetings. For more information contact Monika Sacewicz at 501 516 589 or www. schpolnoc.pl.

St. Paul, the Apostle of the Nations, English Speaking Roman Catholic Parish ul. Radna 14 at the Church of St. Vincent de Paul Charitable Society, Chapel of the Blessed Virgin Mary of the Miraculous Medal. No services Monday. Contact Father Wiesław Dawidowski, mob. 600 384 916, chaplain@catholic.li.pl.

Warsaw Diamond Way Buddhist Center “The Stupa House”, ul. Ożarowska 65/67. Open meditations are held on Tuesdays and Wednesdays at 20:00, Fridays and Sundays at 19:00. Every Friday at 18:00 meetings are held for anyone interested in Diamond Way Buddhism. For more information: tel. 22 877 3408, www.stupahouse.pl.

Warsaw International Church (C2) ul. Miodowa 21, tel. 22 842 2351, pastor@wic. org.pl, www.wic.org.pl. “A Mainline Church for Today.” English-speaking worship and Sunday School for children.

To be listed in this section, please fax your info to 22 639 8569 or e-mail: insider@ warsawinsider.pl.

Education

PRESCHOOLS AND SCHOOLS

polish for foreigners

Academia Polonica (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 55 loc.15, tel. 22 629 9311, www.academia-polonica.com.pl. Offers a choice of special programs such as: Polish in Business, General Polish Language, Polish for Academics and Polish for Professionals.

Akademia PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11, tel. 501 299 338, www.pff-warsaw.com, email: info@ pff-warsaw.com. Akademia PFF offers a wide range of Polish courses for foreigners at low cost in-company or other convenient locations. Professional and friendly tutors with effective teaching styles.

Edu & More ul. Marszałkowska 87 lok. 81, tel. 22 622 1441, www.eduandmore.com. Business & everyday Polish. Full-time courses and innovative courses of Polish online. Experience, good location & price friendly. Students of full-time courses get online course for free.

Lingua Polonica

Lingua Polonica offers general Polish language classes, Polish for business and Polish for diplomacy. Individual learning programs are tailored to the needs of individual clients.

Private and small-group classes available on a variety of levels for competitive prices.

Professional, friendly and dedicated instructors. They even offer a free trial lesson.

Info: www.linguapolonica.com.pl. Email: linguapolonica@linguapolonica.com.pl.

preschools

ABC Play & Learn (H5) ul. Genewska 27, Saska Kępa, tel. 22 616 2066, www.abc.org.pl. Located in the leafy residential district of Saska Kępa, ABC Play & Learn provides a creative and educational space for small children, with capacious play rooms filled with toys and hands-on materials.

Bilingual French – Polish Preschool “Trampoline” ul. Zakopiańska 12a (Saska Kępa) and ul. Skrzetuskiego 17 (Mokotów),mob.

0502 355 919, www.trampoline.edu.pl.

This preschool has a lingual profile and offers

bilingual teaching with French and English.

They received the European Label Certificate for innovative foreign language teaching.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777; ul.

Limanowskiego 15 (Primary, Secondary, IB Diploma program), tel. 22 842-3281; www. thebritishschool.pl. The British School provides special classes from the pre-nursery group – including children from preschool through secondary school.

Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool (C11) ul. Kalatówki 24, tel. 22 898 3139, 697 979 100. The pre-school branch of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides both Polish and International 3-5 year olds with the perfect setting for their first encounters with English and French in an inquiry based classroom. Here, every task relates to real life experience and skills. In addition to a rich, international >> curriculum, the pre-school offers a wide

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LIFESTYLE >> range of extra-curricular activities such as dance, swimming, capoeira, karate and pottery. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: preschool@ canadian-school.pl.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16, Saska Kępa, tel 22 616 1499, www.saint-exupery.pl. Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children 2 to 7 years old. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers. Welcoming family atmosphere.

The English Playhouse (F12) ul. Płyćwiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18,

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tel. 22 843 9370, www.theenglishplayhouse. com. The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@theenglishplayhouse.com.

The European Bilingual Preschool ul. Chłapowskiego 1, tel. 22 644 1514, mob.

0605 561 514, info@preschool.waw.pl, www.preschool.waw.pl.

HAPPY HOME Childcare ul. Okrężna 23, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 717 5513, fax 22 717 5145, mob. 608 369 269, 501 495 543, preschool@happy-home.pl, www.happyhomechildcare.eu. An international preschool located in Konstancin, close to the American School of Warsaw. Ideal childcare facility for children aged 16 months to 5 years. “Happy Home is Your Home” is their motto, aiming to combine a family atmosphere with education, promote the harmonious development of children through play and getting to know themselves and the world.

Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 427 3767, mob. 697 060 504, www.hmh.com.pl. The Happy Montessori

House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising. Children are given ample time and opportunity to explore and work at their own pace and in their own learning style, with a focus on global education according to the world-famous Montessori philosophy.

International Preschool (E11) ul. Zawrat 14, tel. 22 843 0964, preschool@ preschool.pl, www.preschool.pl. Serving the children of American Embassy and non-embassy families for over 50 years, the International Preschool of Warsaw is located in the heart of Mokotów district.

La Fontaine Polish-French Pre-School ul. Rolna 177, Mokotów, tel.22 843 4241 & ul. Pogonowskiego 19, Żoliborz, tel. 0 502 051 360, www.lafontaineprzedszkole.pl.

This preschool has a Polish-French profile and offers bilingual teaching.

Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre is an English-speaking play and learn group in Old Mokotów, dedicated to infants 16 months to 3 years of age. It offers a gentle introduction to nursery education. Contact: marta. cross@neostrada.pl, mob. 607 704 396.

Maple Leaf Preschool ul. Żołny 16, tel. 22 644 2326, office@canadianschool.edu.pl, www.canadianschool.edu.pl. Polish-Canadian Preschool with two locations on the outskirts of Warsaw, ul. Czereśniowa 31a, WarszawaWłochy, tel. 22 863 7756 and ul. Żołny 16, tel. 644 23 26, mob. 501 251 414.

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, www.argonaut.edu.pl. This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów) ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), tel. 502 315 022, www.montessoriacademy.

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EDUCATION eu. An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations.

The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. Offers extracurricular activities, such as: art, dance, yoga, football and summer art & sport camps.

year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provides for an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include pottery, dance, ballet, capoeira, karate, emotional intelligence, art studio and tennis. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: secretary@canadian-school.pl.

schools

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 20, tel. 697 977 600, 697 979 300. The Middle and High unit of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 11-19 year olds. With both Canadian and Polish curricula content students are given the opportunity to choose between Polish Matura or IB Diploma exams. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: mid.high@canadian-school.pl.

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 702 8500, fax 022 702 8500, admissions@aswarsaw.org, www.aswarsaw.org. The American School of Warsaw provides comprehensive programs and facilities based on a US system of education for ages 4 to 18.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw with comprehensive programs and facilities based on the British system of education.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School Unit ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646 9289, 697 970 244.

The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 6-10

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16. Saska Kępa tel 22 616-14-99 www.saint-exupery.pl First Montessori curriculum in French in Warsaw. The Antoine de Saint-Exupéry preschool is opening in September 2011 a Montessori

classroom for children from 2 years old.

International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649 1440, 649 1442 or 0603 952 955, www.ias.edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl. The International American School of Warsaw provides pre-Kindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization.

International European School ul. Wiertnicza 75, tel. 22 842 4448, ies@ ies-warsaw.pl. In operation since 2002 the International European School teaches the Polish National Curriculum in English language to both primary and mid-school level.

La Fontaine Polish-French Primary School ul. Okrężna 95, Mokotów, tel. 22 885 0020, www.lafontaine.edu.pl. The school has a Polish-French profile and offers bilingual teaching for children aged from 6 to 12 years old.

Warsaw Montessori School (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

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STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

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Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

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Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2

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l. Limanowskiego 15 u 02-943 Warszawa T: +48 22 843 81 31 F: +48 22 842 81 65 E: admissions@thebritishschool.pl W: www.thebritishschool.pl 11-08-24 08:35

Żaryna Żaryna

Kulskiego Kulskiego

ChoCdhkod łyiaKłyam kieicwzaic BiaB iew Kaiem za ńień

THE MAYOR

ON THE PROWL

“Listen, I’m a player. But I shut down my playerness from New Year’s to St. Paddy’s Day just so I can avoid this day.”

Kelvin Moore, Valentine’s Day, 2010

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80

alentine’s? I’ll tell you about Valentine’s. One legend has it that Valentine was a Roman priest who was secretly marrying young couples against the wishes of then Emperor Claudius II. Claude outlawed marriage while he was in the process of building up his military because he felt single men made better warriors. Anyway, he found out what Val was up to and was pissed, so he had him detained without due process and later executed.

While Val was being held, he had a crush on the jailer’s blind daughter. He managed to cure her of blindness and sent her a creepy love letter signed, Your Valentine. Obama has since modified this detention method a bit and has introduced it as the Enemy Expatriation Act. Happy Valentine’s Day Terrorist Scumbags!

My theory is, it was a group of secretaries at Hallmark who put their heels together and came up with a great way to get more presents and stimulate the greeting card business. I mean, us guys still haven’t finished paying our credit card bills after Christmas and New

Warsaw Insider: 01-29 February 2012

Year’s and here you go again trying to find your way back into our wallets!

The industry estimates that over one billion Valentine’s are sent each year worldwide, however I reckon they have taken a huge hit from Zuckerbook. Does anyone even mail cards anymore?

If you find yourself without dinner plans for the big day, you better get a move-on. Candy and flowers don’t cut it anymore, since all the girls sit around and compare where they went and what they got. It seems a bucket of Kentucky and a sports bar doesn’t impress. Go figure.

The Mayor’s top five Valentine’s Dinner recommendations are: U Kucharzy, Mielżyński Wine Bar, Papaya, Ale Gloria, and Flaming & Co. Since V-Day falls on a Tuesday this year, you don’t have to worry about the after-party.

Just propose a toast ‘to us’ and then straight back to your place. For a nice touch, before dinner, you can arrange one of those horse and carriage rides through the old town and channel your inner fat tourist.

If your relationship status is “Single” or “It’s Complicated,” then don’t panic. The weekend before Valentine’s Day might be the biggest player weekend of the year for meeting girls other than New Year’s Eve. Girls are desperate they don’t want to be caught sitting home watching Bridget Jones for the umpteenth time on DVD. The Mayor, or shall I say The Emperor, recommends hitting up Enklawa, DeLite, Platinium, The Bank or Space Club anytime during the weekend to track down that elusive Valentine.

Let’s face it, being single on V.D. is like a “Get Out of Jail Free” card. You can eat nachos, go watch Mission Impossible: The Ghost Protocol and afterwards check out the new SIN Strip Club in the center. Strippers need love too! And if you find yourself from Arkansas, don’t worry, they don’t celebrate Valentine’s Day, they celebrate love your cousin day!

february 2012

www.warsawinsider.pl