Warsaw Insider February 2024 #330

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

FEBRUARY 2024

THE MEAT OF THE MATTER Tasting Argentina – p. 41

warsawinsider.pl

#330 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

PLN 10 (VAT 8% INCLUDED)

FEBRUARY 2024 Features: Framed! Photographer of the year – p. 6 Little & Large: local record holders – p. 12 Architecture: Classicist Warsaw – p. 20 Murals: exploring Mokotów – p. 24

SCAN TO READ ONLINE

Contents February 2024

Reviews: EAT & DRINK

Review: Natural Concept – p. 50 Review: Baires – p. 41 Review: Zaklątek – p. 37

Donut Day – p. 52

Roundup: Valentine’s Cocktails – p. 39

AFTER A STRING of unseasonably tame winters, January saw Warsaw resume doing what Warsaw does best – freezing over and being generally inhospitable. All that was missing, was the Yeti emerging from the ensuing whiteout. But if January was bad, it’s an open secret that February will be worse. With the Christmas decorations packed away, the city sinks into an oppressive gloom that saps the soul. As cheerful as a Joy Division video, it’s hard to feel romantic in such a monochrome month. Riding to your rescue, we’ve used this issue to hand out some Valentine’s Day inspo, and also dug out our trivia books to bring you the city’s highs and lows. Also tucked within these pages, we’ve toured the murals of Mokotów, examined the latest drama to envelop the Finnish Houses, prepared for Donut Day, and run the rule of the latest gastro openings. Hope you enjoy it, and catch you next time…

DISCOVER Dates For Two – p. 55

Alex Webber COVER PHOTO KEVIN DEMARIA, PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY ED WIGHT

insider@warsawinsider.pl

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com

Media Assistant Maria Sinkiewicz msinkiewicz@valkea.com

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Subscription

12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl

warsawinsider.pl

Intel

PHOTOGRAPH MATEUSZ POTEMPSKI

Finnish Houses Face New Threat Colloquially known as ‘the Finnish Houses’, the Osiedle Jazdów estate is back in the news after plans were revealed that would see its current function terminated by the city.

remarkable micro-community found in the heart of the city, the Finnish Houses have stood since 1945. Tangled in the story of the post-war rebirth of Warsaw, this enchanting enclave began life with the decision to rebuild the city. Making full use of easy-to-assemble cabins confiscated from Finland by Stalin as reparations, 95 of these were built in the area of Jazdów. In July, 1945, the first 30 tenants moved in, and on August 1st, the development was officially opened, ostensibly housing the architects and engineers charged with reconstructing Warsaw. Defined by their quaint wooden style and black tar roofs, these units quickly became home to a warsawinsider.pl

Insider Intel

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

The A List Four of Warsaw’s biggest tourist attractions have revealed the number of visitors they received in 2023...

5,000,000

125,000

2,023,642

109,400

Visited Łazienki Park

Visited the Royal Castle in Warsaw

2,000,000 Visited the National Museum in Warsaw

1,985,000

Visited Wilanów Palace

563,300

Visited the museums inside Łazienki Park

Saw the Frida exhibition in Łazienki Park

The number of people who joined walks, classes and tours conduced by Wilanów Palace

100,000

The number of people that visited the National Museum’s Picasso exhibition in 2023

2,300

The number of workshops, lectures, tours and classes organised by the Royal Castle

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE, UNSPLASH, OPPOSITE PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK

thriving self-contained world. Yet whilst many have since been demolished, a core have remained to fulfil both a residential and community role with many used as alternative cultural hubs. Having survived a scare in 2011 when it was announced they would be demolished entirely, the spirit of this area is again under threat after plans were radically altered at the start of the year. Under a new draft development plan, residential functions would cease with the cabins instead transformed into pavilions that would possibly even house gastronomic functions. Whilst City Hall claims that the project would safeguard the remaining houses and see the urban layout protected, activists have voiced alarm. According to some, a worst-case scenario could even see this charming little world transformed into a sea of bars. Issuing a call to arms on the Miasto Jest Nasze page, Jan Mencwel said: “The Finnish Houses must be defended again. This time not from demolition, but from destruction of their character.” In contrast, those in the F&B industry have responded positively. “This could bring new dynamism to this part of the city, creating new places for meetings and social integration,” claim the Horeca Business Club. Those in opposition, however, remain resistant. In a city that has already gentrified rapidly, the introduction of gastro facilities to this quiet sanctuary threatens everything that makes the area such a magnificent one-off.

COME AND FALL IN LOVE WITH MATCHA! Moya Matcha Oleandrów Oleandrów 6, Warsaw

Insider Intel

Following threats to its integrity, the post-war district has now been placed under city protection....

nnounced just before Christmas, the move will now see the housing district fall under the protection of the city’s conservator. Garnering thousands of signatures, locals reacted with outrage when plans were published in 2022 that would have seen a six-floor tower being built next to Nowolipki’s Church of St. Augustine. Justifying the decision to enter

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

Muranów Południowy into the register, the conservator referenced its history, unique architecture and spatial planning. “Built on well-organised heaps of rubble, the housing estate is a place to remember the tragedy of the Holocaust,” read the statement. “The timelessness of Bohdan’s architectural concept is also historical. Muranów Południowy was an experimental estate,

and it provides evidence of the development of Polish architecture in the second half of the 20th century.” Once the centre of pre-war Jewish life, when Warsaw was occupied by the Germans the entire district fell inside the walled perimeter of the Ghetto. Razed to the ground following the suppression of the 1943 Ghetto Uprising, in some parts, it’s said that the rubble stood

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK, OPPOSITE PAGE UM WARSZAWA

Muranów Finds Protection

“Built on wellorganised heaps of rubble, the housing estate is a place to remember the tragedy of the Holocaust...” three to four stories high. This, however, would quite literally serve as the platform for the new Muranów that would arise in the immediate aftermath of the war. Authored by Boghdan Lachert, his blueprint for the area was made public in 1948 and was the most ambitious of all of the architect’s 150 projects. Using the First Warsaw Reconstruction Battalion to clear the masonry, this work detail was later joined by communist youth volunteers from Yugoslavia, Italy, Bulgaria and Czechoslovakia. Working at breakneck speed, by 1949 enough ground had been cleared to begin construction. Trained as bricklayers and lift operators, women constituted 30% of the workforce and the area soon became a hive of construction. Lachert’s vision had seen Muranów as “an experimental estate-monument”, one that would be noted for its greenery, sunlit recreational spaces, and educational and cultural institutions. Traffic would be segregated from pedestrians, and each micro-area would be able to function in a self-sufficient manner. Although many of these ideas were implemented,

others were waylaid as workers raced to meet their deadlines. Largely built using materials saved from the Ghetto, several sections of housing were constructed actually directly on top of compacted rubble. With no large-scale systemic excavations ever made, it’s unknown how many bodies, treasures or personal belongings lie underneath. Although some of the earliest buildings in Muranów were sloppily built, others captured the ambition and optimism of this era. Nowotki street (today known as Andersa) particularly stood out. Modelled on Berlin’s Karl-Mark Allee, it was designed to house 15,000 people. It was here iconic landmarks were born such as the grand archway just above Kino Muranów and the quadrangular courtyard further up. Looking statuesque in their dimensions and aesthetics, it’s little wonder that people visited from across Warsaw to marvel at “Stalin’s Palaces”. After the bloodletting of the previous years, this was a brave, new world that offered hope and relief. Moreover, it was a sharp contrast to the over-crowded tenements that had stood here before. Having fallen from the public’s conscience for decades, the opening of the POLIN museum placed the district under an international spotlight. Since then, it has developed dynamically both socially and economically. Its renaissance, though, has proved a double-edged sword with wanton development often upsetting Muranów’s underlying style. Aimed at preventing this, the latest news appears to safeguard it’s architectural integrity for years to come.

Missing In Traction

perating since 1953, Warsaw’s Lost & Found office has reported another bumper year with over 10,700 items ending up in its care – a rise of 1,300 from 2022. Of this number, 695 phones were handed in, 263 watches, 90 tablets, 86 laptops, 54 e-book readers, 33 bicycles and 18 cameras. Of the more unusual finds, the office reported a foot massager, a tent, a carpet, a clarinet, a violin, a guitar, a mic and a drone. Approximately 14% of items were returned to their rightful owners. As part of an initiative organised by City Hall, 146 unclaimed tablets and 41 laptops were donated to the city’s students. According to the office’s Dzielna HQ, most missing items were discovered on the metro, the city’s trams, the airport and inside shopping centres.

warsawinsider.pl

Take A Building

Choc It Out

Commissioned by the E. Wedel chocolate company, the apartment block at Puławska 28 has long been a source of fascination for Warsaw’s architecture buffs… 8

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

“To all intents and purposes, the apartment block was a vision of pure, modernist aesthetics”

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

inanced by Poland’s chocolate king Jan Wedel, the property was one of many on Puławska belonging to the family. Arguably the most high-profile, the acclaimed architect Juliusz Żórawski was recruited to design it. Following Le Corbusier’s five principles of modern architecture, the building featured horizontal strip windows, a main body raised on columns, a rooftop terrace for recreational purposes, an undeveloped ground floor, and a façade largely free of unnecessary embellishments. Built between 1935 and 1936, what arose must have seemed truly futuristic. Clinker tiles covered the external walls, and a bas relief was added above the corner entrance. The work of Stanisław Komaszewski, it depicted a tiger prowling through a marsh. Other artists were also enlisted by Wedel. Rated alongside Tamara de Lempicka and Olga Boznańska as among Poland’s top female creatives of the inter-war period, Zofia Stryjeńska was contracted to paint the entrance hall where a Wedel chocolate store stood. After collecting her fee, the artist then put the commission

to the back of her mind. Uninspired by it, she continued to procrastinate. Fearing Wedel’s wrath, she even paid her porter to make excuses on her behalf and claim she was away. At one stage, she considered fleeing abroad to avoid Wedel, but eventually finished the painting after negotiating an extension to her deadline. Taking eight-months in all, the final result was a work titled ‘The Highlander’s Dance’. Covered up in the 1960s, it was only rediscovered decades later. Today, it sits safely behind a protective plexiglass cover. Other works were not so lucky. Komaszewski had also contributed a sculpture of a goat that stood in a decorative courtyard pond. During the 60s this was considered surplus to requirements and removed. With the sculptor dying in German captivity in 1945, and so much of his output lost during the Warsaw Uprising, his tiger at the entrance is a rare surviving example of his work. Luxurious for the time, the apartment block was equipped with swanky elevators, chrome-plated mailboxes, waste incinerators, terracotta-lined stairwells and a radio antenna. This was not the only adornment crowning the top.

In 1938, a neon was added proclaiming E. Wedel on the Madalińskiego side and Czekolada on the Puławska side. To all intents and purposes, the apartment block was a vision of pure, modernist aesthetics. Naturally, this was appreciated by the Nazis and during the occupation it housed officers and Gestapo officials. This made it an insurgent target, and during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising it came under heavy attack by the Baszta regiment of the Home Army. Despite their best efforts, they were unable to dislodge the Germans. In later years changes extended beyond just the removal of art. The ground floor was filled with stores and the pre-war neon sign removed after the nationalisation of the Wedel chocolate factory – only in 2019 was a replica erected. Once pockmarked with bullet wounds, these were covered during a controversial renovation in 2008. Even so, other details have remained true. To this day, for instance, the block’s numbering system does not have a No. 13. Relevant even in contemporary culture, it played a starring role in Szczepan Twardoch’s 2012 breakout novel Morfina. warsawinsider.pl

Photography

Freeze Frame Spotlighting the work of Przemek Krawczykowski…

For More of Przemek's stunning work, check out his instagam Insta: pszzz

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE PRZEMEK KRAWCZYKOWSKI

inning our online poll to find the Insider’s “Photographer of the Year”, hat tips all round go to Przemek Krawczykowski. Describing himself as a photographer, designer and traveller, Krawczykowski first found himself enthralled by the neon lights and evening energy of Taipei. “Returning to Warsaw, I began to notice it was just as vibrant here,” he says. Giving birth to his Nightwalk series, the atmospheric images presented by the photographer have earned him a cult following on Instagram. Appearing almost as if they were stills from a film noir, his pictures present a sometimes seamy world that is thick with mystery and intrigue.

One For The Record Books City geeks rejoice! Dusting down our trivia books, join us as we explore Warsaw's record holders: the city’s biggest, smallest, highest, tallest…

The Heavyweight Champ As you whizz down Wybrzeże Szczecińskie, it’s impossible not to notice a giant figure stretching out as if grabbing the air. That’s the Kościuszko Infantry Division Memorial, and at 48-tons it’s the heaviest monument found in Warsaw. Cast in bronze and unveiled in 1985, the 16-metre-tall monument depicts one of the soldiers sent in to relieve the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. Complete with a billowing cape, the statue’s hero can be seen with his arm reaching forth. The pose has led locals to nickname the monument the “five beers please” statue.

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

For Bookworms Looking as forbidding as the Pentagon, the National Library in Pole Mokotowskie harbours the country’s largest collection of books. Set inside a complex that was constructed between 1962 and 1976, bookworms have quite a choice – at last count (2021), it held 10,011,626 books, manuscripts and general objects. Though losing 800,000 items during the war, several valuable treasures survived after being evacuated to Canada.

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: KEVIN DEMARIA, BARTEK BARCZEK, SHUTTERSTOCK (2)

For The Flag Hunters Never failing to stir the hearts of the patriotic, the national flag that flutters over Rondo Radosław is the biggest in the city. Measuring 100 sq/m, it first appeared in 2014, a year picked to coincide with the 70th anniversary of the Warsaw Uprising, the centenary of the outbreak of World War I, the 25th anniversary of the Third Polish Republic and the 10th anniversary of Poland's accession to the European Union. The 40-ton mast, meanwhile, stretches out to 63-metres – a respectful nod to the 63-day Warsaw Uprising.

The Big Time Revealed on New Year’s Eve, 2000, the clock that adorns the Palace of Culture was once the highest timepiece in the world. Featuring the Warsaw mermaid on each clock face, and controlled by satellite signal, it stops for only one day a year – for its annual scrub. Set at a height of 160-metres, it features four clock dials weighing 450 kilograms a piece. warsawinsider.pl

One For The Record Books

It was about time someone knocked the Palace of Culture off its perch. Having spent 67-years ranked as Poland’s tallest building, the 2022 unveiling of the Varso Tower didn’t just smash a domestic record, but a European one as well. Measuring 310-metres from top-to-bottom, the EUR 500 million office block also ranks as the EU’s highest tower after pushing Frankfurt’s Commerzbank Tower (259-metres) into second. That said, not all are happy with this shift in rankings. Seeing that the final 80-metres of the Varso Tower is comprised of an antenna, cynics have argued that this is a bit of a cheat: the equivalent of a dwarf putting on a five-foot hat before claiming to be the biggest in the room. Less controversial has been the building’s classic form. Designed by Foster + Partners (the same mob behind the Commerzbank Tower), its sleek, elegant design has made it an attractive addition to the city’s silhouette. This year, expect it to win further public favour when viewing platforms on the 49th and 53rd floors open.

Get Shorty Samborska street in the New Town leads to nowhere – literally. Seen as a leafy dead-end that juts from ulica Przyrynku, the 22-metre cobbled path is Warsaw’s (and Poland’s) shortest street. Historical sources show that it used to measure approximately 100-metres; according to one story, Fryderyk Chopin once challenged himself to compose a tune while walking the street and came up with the Minute Waltz in D flat major. Once the site of a bell-casting workshop, during the Warsaw Uprising insurgents erected a barrier just where Samborska meets Przyrynku. The Nazis pummelled everything around, leaving the street smashed to smithereens. Shortened to its current length but never rebuilt, the street was phased out from city maps before being reintroduced in 2010.

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: KEVIN DEMARIA, SHUTTERSTOCK, PRESS MATERIALS, SHUTTERSTOCK

The Tall Guy

The Slender Man Now nearly 12-years-old, when the Keret House debuted in 2012 it caused a global sensation. Rated as the world’s skinniest house, at its thinnest it's just 92 centimetres. Designed by Jakub Szczęsny after the architect spotted a small “void” that was splitting two buildings, the house was named in celebration of its first invited guest and patron, the Israeli author Etgar Keret. Found on Żelazna 74, for a while this house would host open days, though post-pandemic these appear to have sadly stopped entirely.

The Doghouse So named because of its snaking length, as opposed to the local fondness for sausage-shaped dogs, the Jamnik (Dachshund) on Kijowska 11 counts as Warsaw longest residential building (and Poland’s third). Completed in 1973, and 508 meters in length, this gruesome apartment block achieved fleeting fame when it featured in the Travis video Love Will Come Through. Home to 1,200 people, its initial unveiling was greeted with rapture in the press, though since it has become better-known as one of the capital’s cult eyesores – ironic given that it was first built to shield people arriving at Wschódnia from the ruined horrors behind. Of its other nicknames, locals also refer to it as the plank, the ant and the tapeworm. Jamnik, mind you, is the favourite, a point affirmed by the presence of a sausage dog mural that was added to the side in 2017.

warsawinsider.pl

One For The Record Books

Feel Over The Hill

Beat The Buzzer For Warsaw’s teeniest, tiniest courtyard you’ll need to use your nous and trickery – either that, or just follow a resident. Found within Kamienica Kacperskich on Marszałkowska 1, the internal courtyard is a thumb-sized space of just 2x4x8 metres. The host building ain’t bad either. Eight floors tall, when it opened in 1913 it was the talk of the town. Ranked the second highest structure in Poland, notable aspects included three crystal-clad elevators, rubbish chutes and central heating. Although its glory has faded since, it's triangular form still bears a passing resemblance to New York’s Flatiron Building.

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: SHUTTERSTOCK, KEVIN DEMARIA (2)

Re-energised following a lengthy renovation, Kopiec Powstania Warszawskiego features the city’s longest stairwell, its 350 steps taking visitors to a viewing deck whose chief attraction is a giant Kotwica – the anchor-like symbol of the Warsaw Uprising. Built on war rubble, this manmade mound can now rightfully claim to be a tourist attraction and genuine memorial site following the inclusion of an outdoor display documenting the city’s post-war cleanup, as well as the addition of zigzagging steel walkways, spidering trails, fragments of rubble and information boards.

Support Small Business Attached to the Church of the Holy Spirit on Długa 1 sits the smallest address in Warsaw. Although its exact dimensions have never been revealed, all sources agree that there is no small singular address in the city. Built in 1843, it was from here Karol Banasch sold tobacco imported from Constantinople as well as cigars from Cuba and Mexico. Felicjan Cywiński continued this tradition, often rewarding his regulars with a complimentary glass of wine. Such was the buzz about the place, it became a gathering point for anti-Tsarist nationalists looking to covertly drop and exchange information during the 1831 Uprising. Less than half a century on, a new owner scandalized the city – not to mention the adjacent church – when he added pornographic pictures from Paris to the store’s repertoire!

The Scrabble Winner No official records exist to affirm the city’s longest street name, though our dogged research suggests the winner to be Ulica Dwudziestego Pierwszego Pułku Piechoty Dzieci Warszawy – try saying that to your cab driver after a night on the town. Found in Gocław, the name honours a regiment that fought with distinction during the Polish-Soviet War and in the 1939 September Campaign. Among its other actions, the unit defended Warsaw until the capital surrendered. Remarkably, in 2020 plans were revealed to christen a roundabout Rondo Tajnej Komisji Zakładowej "Solidarności" w Zakładach Mechanicznych Ursus. Eventually, the proposal was dropped, but not before one councillor had helpfully observed that locals could shorten the name to RTKZSwZMU. warsawinsider.pl

Valentine's Day

Ticket For Two Canoodle on the back row while a film flickers in the foreground: ain’t that romantic! For film buffs with a romantic streak, check out these one-of-a-kind cinemas… 18

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

Amondo

Żurawia 20, kinoamondo.pl Having dodged bankruptcy after a celebrity-endorsed crowdfunding campaign a couple of years back, Amondo are back to doing what they do best – showing arthouse films inside the smallest screening room in Warsaw. Holding 20 and 25 people in two rooms, other bonuses go to a VHS rental service that allows people to watch cassettes on their own video player, as well as a mega cool, street-facing café filled with cannisters of film reels and hip, retro vibes.

Iluzjon

Narbutta 50A, iluzjon.fn.org.pl Designed in Socialist Realist form and opened in 1956, it’s since been magically restored so as to evoke yesteryear’s air. Featuring beautiful neon and a stunning rotunda, it’s famed not just for its architecture, but a repertoire slanted towards arthouse flicks and cult classics that range from Belle De Jour to Kes. After, make time to discuss what you’ve seen in their cafébar.

SHUTTERSTOCK

Kinogram

Żelazna 51/53 (Norblin), kinogram.pl Prices top out at PLN 55 for screenings at Kinogram, but noone ever complains. Warsaw’s most luxurious cinema features a vintage style reminiscent of the golden era of Hollywood. Equipped with velvet sofas and plush armchairs – each with their own little table – screening rooms accommodate from 48 to 112 people. The cocktails served

in the adjoining bar are A-Class, and in line with the place’s oneof-a-kind spirit. There’s even a champagne vending machine in this plush facility.

Kinoteka

Pl. Defilad 1, kinoteka.pl Although the program isn’t quite as maverick as some of its competitors, it remains far more exotic than Warsaw’s mainstream screening rooms – and who doesn’t like the idea of watching a film inside the Palace of Culture? Decorated with sturdy pillars, red carpets and brass fittings, the atmosphere is magical. And why not a drink beforehand? Do so in the Kinoteka Bar, a cocktail bar that might remind you of the Gold Room in The Shining’s Overlook Hotel.

Kultura

Krakowskie Przedmieście 21/23, kinokultura.pl With a name like that you already know what you’re getting – gorgeously appointed, the atmosphere is rounded out with a defiantly artistic program: recently, that’s meant reviews of Chinese cinema or retrospectives of Polanski’s work. The adjoining Paradiso bar-restaurant is a spacious zone in which to convene both before and after. When you’re done, walk the Royal Route outside or hit up a fancy cocktail in the Raffles Europejski or the Bristol Hotel.

Luna

Marszałkowska 28, kinoluna.pl Looking a bit grim from the outside, Luna is a Warsaw classic. Celebrating its 60th birthday not all that long back, its name was

inspired by the Soviet space program of the same title. Often hailed as Warsaw’s favourite cinema, the repertoire has a distinctly alternative bent. With Pl. Zbawiciela and Oleandrów close by, there’s no shortage of post-film gathering grounds either. You can’t go wrong with a meal for two in MOD afterwards.

Muranów

Andersa 5, kinomuranow.pl Opened in 1951 on a plot that had originally been earmarked to serve as a carpark, Kino Muranów was Poland’s first two-screen cinema and quickly became the beating heart of the area’s cultural life. Designed in bombastic Socialist Realist style by Michał Ptic-Borkowski it has retained much of its original splendor whilst simultaneously thriving on a reputation for showcasing independent and often arty films. If you’re visiting on Valentine’s, or even if you’re not, then cut through the scenic Krasiński Gardens before heading onwards to explore the cobbled streets of Old Town.

Stacja Falenica

Patriotów 44B, stacjafalenica.pl What a beauty. Found inside a pre-war train station building, this star features an outstanding café with original floor tiles, vintage posters, a healthy selection of books and a wacky ceiling mural. There is nothing ordinary about this place and that applies also to its film listings. As the name indicates, to enjoy it you’ll be travelling out to Falenica, deep down in the lower end of the Wawer district. warsawinsider.pl

Architecture

Reenvisaging Warsaw’s landmarks through a Classicist prism, the projects of Marta and Tomasz Gera from Architektura Klasyczna have fascinated the Warsaw public…

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

ARCHITEKTURA KLASYCZNA

A Taste of the Classic

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw (MSN) “This proposal was obviously a provocation. Is ‘modern’ an exclusive trait superior to our reality, or does it naturally result from everything we design today, no matter how paradoxical it may seem? The Classicist Zachęta building is used to exhibit modern art, so we thought maybe the new modern art museum could follow that successful example.”

WI: Where does your fascination with Classicist architecture stem from? TG & MG: Everything started with our interest in the strictly aesthetic values of architecture. The modernist revolution based many of its rules only on ideological premises, so it was natural for us to look for reasonable guidelines in earlier theories of architecture. Sometimes we publish purely classicist proposals to stimulate discussion – but it is rather this well-evidenced, traditional approach to scale and composition that we want to propagate. How would you introduce Classicism in layman’s terms? Generally Classicism refers to architectural solutions that originate from Ancient Greece but proved universal enough to be parts of much later buildings. Many recognise Classicist buildings based on the presence of columns and cornices, but such an approach may often be misleading. You’re dealing with Classicism every time a facade seems to tell a detailed, yet comprehensive ‘story’ about how a structure successfully opposes gravity.

Thinking of Warsaw, is there an example of Classicism / Neo-Classicism that you love? The Grand Theatre. It’s glorious yet not overwhelming thanks to the brilliant fragmentation of the whole. All those separated colonnades may even evoke the impression of chords that build up in a thrilling symphony. The design is so compelling that even the 1960s extension translates the original Classicism into Neo-Classicism. Is there an architectural style you particularly dislike? Not really. What we dislike are bad design decisions. Perhaps we’ll make an exception with deconstructivism though, which is based on assumptions that contradict the very essence of architectural art. Also, we can hardly think of a good example of a building which is both big and minimalist: we know from neurology that anything of a significant scale requires a hierarchy of divisions to satisfy the eye. The Saski Palace project has divided the country – what are your thoughts? warsawinsider.pl

Architecture

The huge public cost is one of the main issues people have with Saski Palace – is it a price worth paying and is it possible to build beautifully but without the large outlay? Any facade, either modernist or classicist, constitutes a relatively small fraction of the overall construction cost. Mostly it’s the volume of Saski Palace that has challenged the budget so setting a reasonable purpose for the building is crucial. Nevertheless, you can have cheap architecture that looks expensive or expensive architecture that looks cheap – it's mostly weird, avantgarde buildings that fall into the second category. What are your thoughts on modern day Warsaw from an

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

Pl. Bankowy “One of the square’s frontages is completely traditional and the other completely modernist; this provides an excellent chance to compare the attractiveness of different architectural styles. We wanted to check if there was any way to make the overgrown tower more in tune with the historical part of the site. We were inspired by the Classicist skyscrapers designed in recent times by RAMSA in New York, as well as the 1960s extension of the Grand Theatre.”

architectural perspective? For the last 200-years Warsaw has been a testing ground for architectural theory. As a consequence, today we deal with a chaos of a potentially picturesque quality; the architecture should be framed by a unified ‘staffage’ and urban furniture. We think that the new infills in the Midtown area could be designed in the style of Stifelman and Weiss which fit Warsaw excellently.

How do you want people to respond to your projects? We always hope to weaken some fallacies that people have gotten used to - for example, that ‘contemporary’ equals ‘modernist’, or that it’s somehow impossible to have traditional buildings anymore.

For more: architektura-klasyczna.pl

ARCHITEKTURA KLASYCZNA

Having a huge void on the square no longer delivers the originally intended, anti-war message. Instead, it disorganises the whole area. It’s as if nothing but meadows have ever been there. We believe that the reconstruction would bring life and harmony back to this place whilst bringing no harm to the memory of the destruction of 1944.

EXPERIENCE EVERYTHING, REGRET NOTHING

W A R S A W ŻELAZNA 51/53

NEIGHBOURHOOD

Puławska 143

Looking weathered and worn, Bailout Folks takes its cue from Looney Tunes and applies the same cheerful artistic style. Painted in 2012 by Simpson, the word Bailout feels almost innocently outdated given the trials and tribulations that have since befallen the planet. Set on the side of a decrepit tenement, the scene is deliciously contrasted by the glass office block that rubs shoulders next door.

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

BAILOUT FOLKS

KAZIMIERZ GÓRSKI Madalińskiego 49/51

Legendary football coach Kazimierz Górski masterminded Poland’s famous draw at Wembley, before going on to stun the planet at the ’74 World Cup tournament. Playing a swashbuckling brand of football, the Eagles recorded epic wins over Argentina and Italy before falling short against the hosts West Germany in a semi-final remembered as “the water battle of Frankfurt”. Finishing third after beating Brazil, his fearless team left an unforgettable impression during this golden age of football.

Murals of

MOKOTÓW Filled with giant canvases-in-waiting, it’s little surprise to find the vast urban sprawl that is Mokotów containing some of Warsaw’s finest murals – join us as we tour the best of the bunch…

warsawinsider.pl

NEIGHBOURHOOD

100 YEARS OF POLISH ATHLETICS Orzycka 25

Unveiled at the end of 2021, this 460 sq/m mural depicts twenty-six athletes that changed Polish sport. Among the colourful characters are Halina Konopacka, the world record discus thrower that helped save Poland’s gold reserve during WWII; pole-vaulter Władysław Kozakiewicz who famously gave the crowd an ‘up yours’ gesture at the Moscow Olympics; long-distance runner Janusz Kusociński who was executed in 1940; and the hammer thrower, and three times Olympic champion, Anita Włodarczyk.

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

MARGRITTE Belgijska 5

Given the name of the street, when Poland and Belgium celebrated a century of diplomatic relations in 2019 ul. Belgijska was the natural choice on which to paint a mural. Titled ‘In tribute to Rene Magritte’, the work was executed by the Belgian street artist Oli-B. Connections to Belgium do not end there. In recent months, the same road has seen a replica of Mannekin Pis added as part of a grassroots social initiative.

ROOSTER’S EGG Racławicka 17

Arguably the most iconic of Mokotów’s al fresco artworks, the Rooster’s Egg was created by the German artist Dome in 2013 – to this day, it stops people in their tracks. Incorporating elements of Classicism and Baroque, this monochromatic effort is reputedly an allegorical comment on family relationships. Costing PLN 10,000 to implement, it has aged gracefully and looks as striking now as it did when it premiered.

warsawinsider.pl

LOVE

Dąbrowskiego 81

Inspired by the book Love in the Time of Cholera by Gabriel Garcia Marquez, this beauty was created on the prompting of the annual Big Book Festival. Painted by street artist Mikołaj Rejs, the mural was designed with a dual purpose: to promote reading and, simultaneously, to act as a record of the times. Completed in the summer of 2020, the face mask worn by the male figure is a reminder of the pandemic.

WOMEN

Corner of Jana Bytnara / Marzanny

Adorning the side of an Italian restaurant that gets mixed reviews, Women lacks the ‘stop-me-dead’ size of other murals. Nevertheless, it’s a jaunty, punchy effort that pays tribute to the indomitable strength of women. Painted by an unknown artist, it’s the highlight of Mokotów’s many low-level murals found decorating garages, yards and side alleys.

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

CENTAUR Dolna 37

By Warsaw’s standards, this mural can be considered something of a veteran. Painted by the Italian artist Pixel Pancho in 2012, this complex artwork shows a mechanical centaur clad in Roman armour taking aim at a simpering robotic stag. Age has wearied the work, but the peeling paint and accumulated grime serve only to add character – if anything, this deterioration gives the sense of a diamond in the rough.

warsawinsider.pl

COMMUNIT Y HUBS & FOOD HALLS

NORBLIN FACTORY ul. Żelazna 51/53, fabrykanorblina.pl

For a catch-all solution offering a variety of food, drinks and social experiences under one address, check out the following Warsaw legends…

CENTRUM PRASKIE

ELEKTROWNIA

F&B POWIŚLE KONESER Warsaw’s largest food hall (23 Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com food points and five bars!) has been intelligently designed so as to retain intimacy while never OVERVIEW OVERVIEW ceasing to remind visitors as toReopened its diverseinrange Initially completed in 1904 to serve as Warsaw’s 2018 of aschoices a mixed-use project contain–ing thecultural so-called ‘Asian district’ primary source of electricity, Elektrownia’s blended sites, F&B outlets, A Class offices and scores particularly highly. approach includes an exclusive top floor beauty loft-style apartments, noIn other investment has standalone terms, topon marks hall filled with cutting edge beauty solutions and had a bigger impact Praga’s overdue regenergo to the elegant Piano Bar, the it’s also done much a retail offer than tends to shirk the mainstream to ation than Koneser. Culturally, eclectic Uwaga craft beer haven, instead slant in on contemporary Polish design, thanks to the Polish Vodka Museum, the Museum the swanky MOXO bar-club upscale vintage, niche brands and established of Fantastic Art and temporary exhibitions such as JOIN THE CLUB crossover, TexFor Mex of Blue local talent. The food and drink has also been a Banksy in the 2021. most though, the F&B lineup Debuting in February, frequent visitors Cactus and the newly-launched plus, with most attention going to a food hall is the strongest attraction of all andcan thisnow includes register to joinmajor the Norblin Middle Eastern emporium that is that appears in an energetic sea of neon. upmarket Indian from Bombaj Malasa, theClub, casual Factory an app that will give members Amar Beirut. Finally, check into eatery Spółdzielnia and the real feather in to the cap, access exclusive offers, promotions the Bazar, Grill a farmers’ market theBio Koneser – a meat-centric venue of high Free to download, it’s and discounts. with a reputation that extends sophistication. been designed with guests, tenants and nationwide. suppliers in mind.

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

WARS SAWA JUNIOR

Marszałkowska 104/122, warssawajunior.pl OVERVIEW Standing all but in the shadow of the Palace of Culture, WARS SAWA JUNIOR cuts a familiar sight to all. Conveniently connected by tram, bus, metro and even bicycle and scooter, today it presents the slick and shining face of modern Warsaw. But then, WARS SAWA JUNIOR has always been at the forefront of Warsaw retail. Opened as one of the first shopping centres in Poland, to this day it enjoys unflagging popularity thanks to the largest adidas store in the country as well as the only Uniqlo. Other brands and stores present include Mango, Rituals, Zara, TK Maxx and H&M.

BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE

Grzybowska 58, browarywarszawskie.com.pl OVERVIEW Utilising elements of a historic brewery and setting them against an upmarket backdrop of freshly mapped streets and immaculate new build that feels contextually suited to the district, Features include a premium food hall, Robert Lewandowski’s Nine’s sports bar, the ever-popular Balkan eatery Munja, and Baila – a stunning live entertainment emporium. But our favourite enclave of all? The flagship brewpub known as Browar Warszawski.

HALA KOSZYKI

ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com OVERVIEW Koszykowa 63, koszyki.comConsidered the grande dame of food halls, the brick and wrought iron interiors of this spot look beautiful with the F&B offer split between standalone restaurants such as the fancy Warszawski Sen to vendors like the fist-bumping, burrito boys at Gringo. For craft beer and grilled sausages then Kiełba w Gębie don’t put a foot wrong, whilst the openall-hours ĆMA is a legend in its own lifetime.

FABRYKA NORBLINA Żelazna 51/53

OVERVIEW Opened on the site of a former metal factory, the scale of Norblin takes a while to sink in. A beautiful combination of new and old, it’s a photogenic example of everything that makes modern Warsaw so captivating. Representing 200-years of history, the two hectare site is riddled with over 50 leftovers from the Industrial Revolution and these are set against attractions such as the luxury Kinogram cinema (champagne vending machines!), the immersive Art Box Experience, the only Apple Museum in the country (as in the tech brand, not the fruit), a factory museum and the Smart Kids Planet – a 1,600 sq/m project with nine zones that aim to promote logical thinking, healthy eating, motor functions, perception and creative thinking.

warsawinsider.pl

The

Buzz Presenting the city’s most talked about venues, join us on a whistle stop tour of the cafes, pubs and cocktail dens and wine bars that you can’t afford to miss…

WINE & DINE

Kontakt Sandomierska 13

Weaknesses do not exist in Kontakt, and if they do, they have yet to be formally identified by any who visit. Looking glorious in its deep shades of blue, its look is complemented by a 400-strong wine list slanted towards natural, bio-dynamic and organic wines. The five-star experience is aided by wonderful food. LOCAL WINES

Brać Zgoda 3 & Sierakowskiego 4A

INSIDER FAVORITE

Resistant as traditionalists may be to the very notion of Polish wine, Brać have made it their mission to showcase its unknown quality. Presenting on-edge sips from niche domestic producers (including collabs with the Funky Fluid craft brewery!), all this is done in a stylish space that feels good to be in. From 2023, this was our favourite wine-related find! NATURAL WINE Rascal Moliera 6

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Formerly a canteen for ballet dancers, this address now holds the largest bar in Europe specialising in natural wines – you weren’t expecting that! Entered past a lavish drape, this cool space has a suitably adventurous choice of rebel wines.

Typika

BEER GEEKS

Espousing the Japandi style (an amalgam of Japanese and Scandinavian should your brain not be working), Typika’s floor-to-ceiling windows bathe this fashionably stark, split-level space in light no matter the season. Sparingly decorated, the blonde wood furnishings (check the blob-shaped table!) and neon deer further emphasize the natural, refreshing feel.

Good old Jabbers will never let you down. A Warsaw institution, the adventurous choice of beers gives nods to international pioneers, domestic talents as well as

Kolejowa 47

Jabeerwocky Nowogrodzka 12

warsawinsider.pl

The Buzz their own house beers. Prewar floors and the welcome smell of spillage give it a great atmosphere that becomes a boisterous babble of international voices the later it gets. For something quieter, take your pint next door to their sister bar, Jabeerwocky Junior. THE HEART OF POLSKI CRAFT Kufle i Kapsle Nowogrodzka 25

Respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage, the brick interiors are thick with noise, clamour and the reassuring smells of last year’s party. On colder nights, make your way to the back to discover an intimate space sprinkled with vintage armchairs and wonky old lamps set at a natural tilt. The beers are among the most radical in Warsaw. CUTTING EDGE CRAFT Hopito Chmielna Chmielna 24

Opened last year as the younger sister of Hopito’s Żurawia venture, this branch feels a little more mature in its target audience, though every bit as fun in its beer selection - radicalized drinkers will love Hopito’s own crazy brews. OLD TOWN PINTS

Same Krafty & Same Krafty Vis-à-vis Nowomiejska 10

Jammed between the Barbican gateway and the Rynek, Same Krafty’s pair of Old Town drinkeries face opposite each other to offer their own mini-pub crawl. Appearing as raucous and rugged tavern-like bars, the experimental craft beers are a league ahead of the mainstream fizz peddled by

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

the other nearby bars. FRIDAY HIT

Grace Drink Bar Krucza 16/22

Named in honour of Grace Jones, the choice of hero says much about a place that devotes itself to celebrating the glam excess of 80s New York. Rooms include one that’s all bordello style colours and velvety finishes, and another that’s high on plush purple, glass and mirrors. Fuelling the party, are classic cocktails, kamikaze shots and kitschy yesteryear hits. CREATIVE COCKTAILS Ave Pegaz Piłsudskiego 9

Inside a lively interior that doesn’t take itself too seriously (check the ‘ceiling garden’), swivel about to gawk at a mighty collection of corkscrews and drinking implements. In this alchemist’s workshop find yourself enjoying some of the most creative cocktails in Warsaw. COCKTAIL PORN VHS Poznańska 7

The shoebox sized VHS pays tribute to the 80s and 90s and is a model for good times – boasting a flamingo and pictures of Mr T., the toilet says it all. The drinks are among the wackiest in Warsaw, and they’re as fun to drink as they are to photograph. RETRO HIP

Paloma Inn Poznańska 21

Inspired by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, Paloma Inn is a groovy blast of lunar lines, pea green colour tones and furnishings and fittings that are retro-fu-

turistic. The experience is compounded by easy listening muzak, 70s menu faves like fondue and mega fun cocktails. THE ATMOSPHERE Beirut & Kraken Poznańska 12

Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (sandbags, ammo boxes…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken. Evenings dissolve into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. INSIDER CLASSIC Pardon To Tu Al. Armii Ludowej 14

Despite the upgrade in surrounds, they’ve retained the leftfield spirit of their old haunt thanks to flexi hours, a commitment to obscure sounds, and a well-spaced interior that references their former venue through its decadent colour scheme and wall of favoured musicians. The air of friendly, unforced cool is unmatched! FOR THE MUSIC Młodsza Siostra Dobra 14/16

Known for his ear for upcoming talent, the owner Michał isn’t averse to taking risks in order to broaden Warsaw’s musical palate. The scrappy backdrop of bike repair garages give a vibe redolent of the shadowy courtyards of Berlin and Budapest, whilst inside it’s all creaking floorboards, mismatched furnishings and a clientele sourced from the local Academy of Fine Arts.

The Buzz REBEL SOUNDS

Chmury / Hydrozagadka 11 Listopada 22

Set in a fleapit courtyard, it’s hard to tell where one begins and the other ends, but both are spiritually cojoined by a devotion to eclectic live music. Tight and crowded, it’s a place where audience and band become one, feeding off each other to generate an electrifying atmosphere. A BIT OF EVERYTHING Foton Wilcza 9A

You know it’s been an epic weekend when you wake up on Monday knowing that Foton was involved. Conversation with strangers is natural after a few of Foton’s cocktails, and these are enjoyed to a cool backdrop made up of fleet of tumbling plants perched on steel-framed irrigational contraptions. CULT BAR

Gemba Chmielna 21

Adopting a loose-fitting PRL style, interiors include wood-paneled walls decorated with pics of Pope JPII, sporting pennants and framed artworks from the heyday of the Polish School of Poster. Tricked out with retro wallpaper, the perches by the bar are the most sought, but spillover seating can also be found in a winter garden enclosed by green and scarlet drapes – very David Lynch. Drinks include a broad-minded selection of craft beers, house cocktails and shots. PRE-CLUB DRINKS Bar Pacyfik Hoża 61

Based upon the kind of

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass cocktails! LATE NIGHTER

Republica San Escobar Poznańska 7

Lacking airs and graces, it’s a place where fun rules the roost. Tiny in size, find an interior filled with corrugated iron sheets, zappy neons, chunky woods and bike pedals on the footrests. The fun-loving spirits is irresistible, and the tight dimensions mean the party often spills onto the terrace outside. ESSENTIAL CHECK-IN Fabryka Norblina Żelazna 51/53

Without fail, the big winner of 2023 was Norblin – hell, we even saw Kieran Culkin walking through over summer! In terms of nightlife, winners include the elite MOXO and the craft-minded Uwaga. Packed in the evening, the atmosphere is squared out perfectly by the live music that frequently escapes from the Piano Bar. The Insider fave though remains Piano Bar, a place with fancy cocktails, a 12-foot chandelier and a crowd that errs from late 20s upwards. STUDENT CARNAGE Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ Nowy Świat 26

For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy

back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realisation that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into murk and chaos. LIVE SPORTS

Shamrock Sports Bar Krucza 51

At long last, Warsaw has the sports bar it deserves. Zapping in football, rugby and suchlike from around the world (but mainly Britain), this Irish-run spot is an off-shoot of the atmospheric Shamrock Irish Pub on Zgoda. Though a lot smarter than its sister, the raucous sense of fun has carried over – as has the quality Guinness. ALT. ENTERTAINMENT Worek Kości Bagatela 10

There is nothing ordinary about Worek Kości and that’s underlined by its collection of 400 replica skulls. Known for its burlesque nights, this passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre also has a busy roster of lectures dedicated to criminal profiling, forensics and serial killers. Oh, and the cocktails are good. THE PRAGA VIBE

W Oparach W Absurdu Ząbkowska 6

Craft beers lurk within the fridge, but for the seminal Absurdu experience order a tray of vodka before bulldozing through the crowds that gather to listen to Balkan rock and Afro-Latin bands. Somewhere, hidden deep beneath the creaking antiques and moth-eaten Persian rugs, you might be lucky to find a woodcarved bar.

Review

WHAT’S THERE

It’s hardly big, but it sure packs a lot into its limited floorplan: a counter made from travel trunks; a wall filled with portraits of Potter characters; and bookshelves adorned with leather-bound spell books, flickering candles, Quidditch trophies and ornamental skulls. Broomsticks, a hairy spider and a giant picture of ‘the Fat Lady’ round out the look. Small as it may be, you don’t have to be a Potterhead to appreciate the fun nature of this project.

DOWNSIDES

IT’S A KIND OF MAGIC In Muranów, a chamber of secrets awaits Harry Potter’s most ardent fans…

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

WHERE AM I

For sure, this Harry Potter themed café would feel better suited to Old Town’s cobbled alleys – but that’s easy to say when you’re not the one paying the rent. Instead, Zaklątek slots inside the residential no-man’s land that sits between the POLIN museum and Powązki Cemetery. Sharing the same commie era block as a Vietnamese takeaway joint, booze shop and 24-hr gambling den, the slightly seamy surroundings are quickly forgotten once entry is gained.

You’ll never guess, but kids absolutely love it. Noise levels can rise, so think tactically and visit during school hours. There are also some that cry about the prices (about PLN 28 for a slice of cake, PLN 20 for tea). Hardly cheap, but what is in Warsaw nowadays?

UPSIDES

Fun, fun, fun. At a time when Warsaw’s cafés have been taken over by people that describe themselves as ‘digital nomads’, Zaklątek is a breath of fresh air. The winter tea is also delicious, and best taken on the sofa that sits in front of the artificial log fire.

FINAL VERDICT

We enjoyed it, and you’ve got to be a pretty miserable person if you don’t yourself. Small though it is, Zaklątek allows you to step into a fantasy world and leave Warsaw behind – any place that does that deserves its share of credit.

Zaklątek

Smocza 27

warsawinsider.pl

The Buzz NORTHERN NIGHTS

SHOW TIME!

Set on the first floor of a PRL era tower, the super cool interior offers up a coherent display of retro posters, luscious plants and light wood trimmings that are respectful of this space’s former life as a 1960s cafe. Perched among hip freelancers and theatre types learning their lines, sip away on trendy bio wines, adventurous lemonades, craft swigs or specialty coffee sourced from local roasters.

Chaton is where the celebs and top-earners gather to enjoy world class stage performers prance about whilst revelling in the bosom of refined luxury.

Havana Słowackiego 16/18

CLUB OF THE YEAR K-Bar Powiśle Leona Kruczkowskiego

Providing an alternative to the usual Smolna / Luzztro / Jasna 1 scene, the location inside one of the pillars that prop up Poniatowskiego Bridge lends an ‘in the know’ frisson of adventure to your evening. Small, sweaty, raw and intimate, the industrial-style vibe is offset against oriental lanterns and the occasional Korean flag. Music-wise, and evenings promise everything from Italo-rave to techno trance. UPMARKET CLUBBING Sen Wioślarska 6

Some would say that Sen enjoys its heyday in the summer when the rooftop terrace opens to afford views of the illuminated bridges that span the river. But even outside these months it’s long enjoyed a reputation as Warsaw’s premier super-lux club. High class cocktails and a stringent door policy have helped maintain their name as the principal destination for glam, catwalk excess.

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

Chaton Foksal 19

EXPERIMENTAL COFFEE Cophi Hoża 58/60

Owner Uri Wollner is one of the great coffee influencers of Poland, and his seasonally changing menu includes such winners as Aperol espresso in summer and spiced pumpkin latte in the autumn and winter. This passion project is best appreciated if you can snag one of the few armchairs in this tiny locale. COFFEE & CAKE Tonka Karmelicka 16

Looking onto the glorious glass cube that is the POLIN museum, Tonka’s crystal white minimalism rules with the monotone palette given punch by subtle zaps of greenery. The coffee – sourced from the likes of HAYB – is excellent but tastes even better when tested alongside Tonka’s ever-changing line-up of mind-blowing cakes. COFFEE OF LEGEND Stor Tamka 33 / Bracka 18

For many there is no better café anywhere in Poland than Stor’s original on Tamka. When the sunlight slopes in through the window, there are few finer feelings than idling away in this plant festooned refuge. Famed for their glorious coffee

and detail-driven approach, recognition should also be handed to their devotion to local causes and zero waste philosophy. FOR VINYL CHILLOUT Hałas Elsterska 10

Divide Hałas into two sections: first, a small chamber selling collectors classic vinyl and coffee sourced from some of Europe’s top roasters. Then, smuggled in the back, discover a Nordic-style living room arrangement that encourages afternoons spent sipping coffee whilst catching up on email. FOR QUICK ESPRESSO Błysk Słowackiego 22

Served over a PRL era counter, Błysk’s super-tight confines generate a natural air of familiarity. Often standing room only, the buzz and hubbub owes itself not just to the delicious espresso shots, but also the homemade cookies and dog-loving owners that will spoil your pet. DESTINATION COFFEE Café Pląs Puławska 113A (Królikarnia)

There’s two rooms to speak of, and both impress with their tall windows, high ceilings and vintage 60s design. Set inside the Króliarnia palace, it’s laidback and artsy-cool, something aided by the strategically placed plants, chillout beats and rare-find art books placed reverentially on the shelves. Specialty coffee, bio wines, alternative soft drinks and craft beer make it a highly versatile place to finish in after a brisk autumn walk around the palace grounds.

Roundup

specialises in gin-based sips – these, though, are complemented by just about every cocktail you can think of, from classics to house specials. Prices are steep but the quality is unrivalled. Making it ideal for Valentine’s is an alluring interior that unmasks itself in a palette of peachy-pink. Riffing on the hotel’s Art Deco and Art Nouveau heritage, it’s stylish, warm and discreet. Lane's Gin Bar

COCKTAIL HOUR

Warsaw’s cocktail bars offer plenty for romancing couples looking for a fun, flirty date night…

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF LANE'S GIN BAR

Aura Hoża 27

Aura’s mousehole proportions make it perfect for an intimate date – provided you can snag a seat. Reservations on nights like Valentine’s are a pretty smart idea. The dimensions work to its benefit. In such a confined space, it’s natural that visitors feel a connection with the staff, with the place, and those they’re with. Drinks are bourbon-centric and feel all the better for being served inside a mysterious looking space decorated with swivelly chrome stools and Moroccan exotica. Loreta Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)

Measured against other rooftop

bars, the view from Loreta’s seventh floor is rather modest: if anything, the terrace, wedged in the corner, feels like an afterthought. This handicap does not prevent many – including us – for calling it out as one Warsaw’s best cocktail spaces both in summer and out. In the depths of winter, enjoy a dimly-lit interior filled with eclectic art, funky fittings and the occasional swirl of neon. The playlist and inventive cocktails click together well. Lane’s Gin Bar Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Bristol Hotel)

Judged our favourite cocktail bar in the latest chapter of our Best Of Warsaw awards, Lane’s

Long Bar Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Hotel)

For a date to remember, first cruise the Zachęta Gallery before crossing the wind-buffeted Pl. Piłsudskiego. After that, entering the Raffles Europejski feels like the treat you both deserve. Hosting the likes of Beyonce and the Rolling Stones since it’s relaunch, this venue is as swoon-worthy as you expect. That includes a bar that’s tricked out with smooth marble, natural oak, striking art and soft tan leather. For drinks, their choice of Slings are a highlight. Va Bene Cicchetti Waryńskiego 9C

Designed to evoke memories of Venice, find this classy bar decked out in operatic reds, flashes of gold and table legs painted in gondola stripes. Giving it a hint of dazzle, a mosaic made from shards of Venetian mirrors glitters from the wall. Drinks are arty and tailor-made around Italian ingredients – that means around half a dozen interpretations of the negroni. Be warned: it is small, it is busy. warsawinsider.pl

Review

TIME TO GET MESSI

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

A loving homage to Argentinean food and culture, Baires puts in a winning performance…

warsawinsider.pl

Review COORDINATES

Powiśle has been beeping on the foodie radar for quite some time, and Baires finds itself in the eye of the storm: sharing the same building as Tuna (another Argentinean-run venture), and just a dart’s throw from Elektrownia, the location is enviable. Found on the ground floor of the Sava Boutique Hotel, all the area’s highlights are in striking distance – the river, MSN, the Copernicus Centre, etc.

STYLE

The cardboard cutout of Leo Messi in the window sets the tone. Baires looks smart, but it doesn’t take itself too seriously. Clinging to the wine-coloured walls are an array of photographs honouring the Argentinean greats of film and football. If you’re English, look away: yep, that’s Maradona in the corner, fisting the ball past a helpless Peter Shilton. Set with national flags, sporting pennants and a cupboard of wine, the informal attitude works well with the food and spirit of Baires – you’re going to have a good time. Go native and order a Pisco Sour (PLN 36) or a Fernet Con Coca (PLN 36). These are pretty simple drinks to make, but that doesn’t mean Warsaw always gets them right. Here they do. Very drinkable – maybe a little too drinkable – these sips will get your evening off on the right foot. For the wine drinker, the options include bottles from Alchimia de los Andes, a high-altitude vineyard in Mendoza. For a bottle you’re looking at a spend of between PLN 160 to 220.

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

SIPS

Baires Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 43, baireswarsaw.com

“

The cardboard cutout of Leo Messi in the window sets the tone. Baires looks smart, but it doesn’t take itself too seriously. SUBSTANCE

Let the fun begin. Kick-off with an empanada, generously filled with choices such as minced beef, red pepper and onion (PLN 19). The Portena pizzas too promise much deliciousness – featuring extra thick dough and a motherlode of cheese, they’re a great twist on the standard. If you just want a teaser, they serve them by the slice (PLN 12-14) as well as by the whole (PLN 48-51). Of course, it is meat that comes first here though, and in Baires that means a proper Argentine grill experience. Rib-eye (PLN 98) and Picanha (PLN 89) are served, though the short-rib is also utterly enjoyable (PLN 84). All come with house chimichurri and criolla, as well as a side of your choosing. As for dessert (PLN 24), we plunked for the dulce de leche ice cream with chocolate chip, an ecstasy of crunchy, crispy caramel tastes.

VERDICT

Baires is the ultimate good mood restaurant. Run by Lucas Arce, you feel his passion and skill coded into the good vibe of this venue. Serving food that everyone can understand and appreciate, it’s as big on taste as it is on atmosphere. Loving somewhere has never been this easy. warsawinsider.pl

#TheTasteComesFromTheNature

Our menu is like a diary of the seasonal journey we want to take you on. + We invite you to taste the menu consisting of dishes based on regional ingredients. + Our advantage is also a fantastic offer of the best domestic steaks

(from our farm in Masuria) and imported (Japan, Australia, Chile, USA).

+ In addition, we offer our guests an intimate room for business meetings.

Mokotowska 8, Warsaw

Call us: +48 725 320 420

TheFarmPL

thefarm_warsaw

Dine &

THE MICHELIN STAR

Delight When only the best will do, we’ve cut through the chaff to present a curated choice of Warsaw’s top eateries – from ethnic comfort foods and under-the-radar gems all the way up to the city’s most exclusive dining rooms…

MUST TRY

Nuta Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14

Andrea Camastra’s restaurant is a magical enclave in which time stands still. Mixing his famed scientific techniques with artisanal processes, his tasting menu is expressive in its aesthetics and flavour, as if it were an extension of his own firecracker character. Even the cheeseboard is a mind-bender – on our April visit, jaws hit the floor as this arrived in the liquified form of a pear consommé topped with warm gorgonzola foam. A bold, world-class adventure, no other restaurant offers such a ride – a second Michelin star seems guaranteed. FORMAL & EXTRAORDINARY Epoka Ossolińskich 3

Nineteenth century cornices and baroque drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury to this A-Class space. Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs, with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. La Liste officially rank it among the world’s Top 100 Restaurants. EXQUISITE

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Nolita Wilcza 46

Trójka Kielichów Stalowa 38 / 2

Is it a café? A restaurant? Wine bar? Cocktail den? The truth is, it’s all of these yet none. A hybrid hangout at the front end of cool, under indigo tinted lights this scruffy yet theatrically hip room (it’s tiny!) serves killer breakfasts, fab cocktails, low intervention wines and beautiful bites such as Turkish pochette eggs. Radically creative, it’s akin to being invited around to an artist’s studio for a chat and a drink and some curious snacks.

Winning our 2022 award last year for ‘Outstanding Achievement’, chef Jacek Grochowina’s enclave of class looks dashing with its monochrome colours and muted gunmetal shades, but it’s the food that has made it the place Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Treasuring detail and finesse, Nolita demonstrates fine dining hasn’t died. warsawinsider.pl

Dine & Delight ECLECTIC & UPMARKET

statement art, and is twinned with tiny a’la carte courses that appear like miniaturised works of art.

power of local produce, there’s a refinement at play that speaks of a kitchen team that aims for magnificence.

CASUAL SCENE

POLAND REIMAGINED

Fusing upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of, Rozbrat 20 is a Warsaw gastro landmark. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak, the frequently changing menu has a real playful inventiveness to it.

With no reservations accepted, Bibenda’s enduring popularity ensures that queues often build at the entrance – even at the height of the Polish winter. Augmenting the warm interiors of raw red brick and dim yellow lighting, guests flock for a menu that celebrates the fields, forests and farmsteads of Poland. Though not strictly vegetarian, meat is a rare find with the focus now shifted on eclectic combinations of freshly plucked goodies – e.g. crispy mushrooms and scallions with fermented garlic chili honey and peanut chili crisps.

Regarded as one of Warsaw’s gastronomic treasures, each month sees Robert Trzópek design a tasting menu inspired by a specific region of Poland. His creative interpretations of the nation’s culinary traditions are delicate, nuanced and beautifully balanced. The chic but casual setting reflects the philosophy.

DATE NIGHT

THE NEED TO KNOW

Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, the menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes and is admired for some of the most interesting cooking in the city – think elegant with a localized twist. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a decked courtyard terrace for when it’s not.

This attractive off-street space comes swathed in white-onwhite colours – blissfully cocooned from the outside world, and decorated orb-like installations, this chic but casual space gives Polish food a modernised translation. Visiting for our May issue, we were bowled over by the pork cheeks served with a punchy demi-glace and whirls of liquified peas and red cabbage.

Dyletanci Koszykowa 47

Subtle and stylish with its muted, neutral colours and pops of art, amid the light woods and sky-coloured walls, the assembled fine wines have been selected to dance in tandem with the cooking of Rafał Hreczaniuk. His cooking is elegant, eclectic and never short on sensational taste. FOR THE TASTING MENU Rozbrat 20 Rozbrat 20

Ale Wino Mokotowska 48

NEW WAVE

hub.praga Jagiellońska 22

Heading the kitchen is Witek Iwański, a chef whose past accolades include our very own ‘Top Talent’ title at our Best of Warsaw awards. The tan, beige and white interior is embellished with moon-shaped mirrors and

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

Bibenda Nowogrodzka 10

The Eatery Koszykowa 49A

NEW POLISH Źródło Targowa 81

Hardwood floors, exposed pipes and a flurry of plants equip an open area decorated with blasts of contemporary art, recycled furnishings and extravagant light installations. Menu-wise, the food lights the soul. But more than just celebrating the

Bez Gwiazdek Wiślana 8

POLISH SLOW FOOD Zielony Niedźwiedź Smolna 4

Surrounded by darting squirrels and frosted foliage, the park location feels spiritually aligned with the Green Bear’s devotion to celebrating nature. Paying homage to seasonality and tradition, the flavours are big and the tastes are true inside this sanctuary of elegant fancy. CLASSIC POLISH Różana Chocimska 7

An oldie but a goldie! With the house pianist tinkling in the background, just being here feels special. For formal, almost ceremonial occasions, Różana evokes the noble spirit of Old Poland with its upmarket menu and sense of tradition. TRENDING POLISH Pod Gigantami Ujazdowskie 24

Once seen as a classic restaurant for ‘old people’, Pod Gigantami’s reinvention stretches to 3 a.m. finishes come the weekend. Marrying heritage with hip, during more normal hours enjoy thoughtfully cooked Pol-

ish classics including an old school schabowy the size of a small planet.

part of the community with fermented wheat and rye sourdough their specialty.

experience the country has ever seen.

POLAND FOR INSIDERS

STAR SUSHI

Queen Sheba Jana Pawła II 45A

Źródło Targowa 81

The interior is a jumble of exposed pipes, flurries of greenery, hardwood floors, recycled furnishings and colourful Boho bits and bobs. Menu-wise, the food lights the soul. But more than just celebrating the power of local produce, there’s a refinement at play that speaks of a kitchen team that aims for magnificence. In October, that meant pumpkin with goat milk feta and ‘golden raisins’, and a star turn from a beef rib with pickled plums and a pair of steamed buns. BREAD & BREAKFASTS Baken Żurawia 6/12 & Browary Warszawaski

Noriko Mińska 45

With just eight seats and one sitting per day, reservations are mandatory. Priced PLN 750 per head, the cost mirrors what many are calling the most exceptional sushi

AFRICAN FEAST

This cramped, little nook presents itself in a cheerful manner, decorated as it is with chunky woods and Ethiopian flags, fabrics and assorted trinkets – it is the food though that is the principal standout,

Nova Wola

Baken feels like a merger between the chic streets of Paris and the cosy corners of Copenhagen, with its delectable breads and inviting atmosphere hinting at French and Danish charm. The energy is conducted through an open kitchen and expressed by handsome staff clad in white t-shirts. The scrambled eggs from the happy hens of Rozwienica are a must – so too are plum Crêpes Suzette. LOCAL BAKERY Bułka z Chlebem Walecznych 5

The subject of Warsaw’s best artisanal bakery is contentious, but Saska Kępa’s Bułka z Chlebem takes some beating with its cult miso breads, fluffy loaves of chmurka, pillowy challah and daily pastry specials. It’s an integral

AUTHENTIC POLISH CUISINE Rondo Daszyńskiego 2 , Warsaw +48 22 377 38 01 novawola@ihg.com novawola.com

warsawinsider.pl

Dine & Delight with occasionally hot and peppery meats served on teff-based injera bread (think of a giant pancake) and then scooped up by hand.

food’ and or the off-the-menu vindaloo. Cocktails reflect the slick, dynamic interior and are also excellent.

COLOMBIAN COOL

Blue Cactus Elektrownia Powiśle & Fabryka Norblin

Macondo Poznańska 16

Moving from Poniatowski Bridge in December, Macondo will be looking to transplant their cheerful, party vibe to Poznańska. Known for their Latin party tipples and bitey menu of crispy empanadas and plantain pancakes, we’ll be checking in on them in the coming weeks!

They say legends never die, and so it’s proved with the return of this institution. Though contemporary in its styling, nods to the past are plentiful and include such elements as the original chairs. It vibes well but it eats even better – the tacos and burritos never disappoint.

NEIGHBOURHOOD GREEK

MEXICAN MAGIC

Festooned with potted shrubs, the outdoor wooden deck is one of Saska’s finest outdoor check-ins. If that’s packed – and it often is – head inside where an atmosphere of gentle chaos reigns in the noisy open kitchen. Eschewing warmth and authenticity, the atmosphere fits we;; with the meaty skewers.

Decorated in a jaunty Day of the Dead style, the tacos (and secret spicy salsas!) of Isabel Balderas are legendary. The number of expat Mexicans that eat here are the ultimate testament to her prowess.

Mr. Greek Souvlaki Londyńska 16

RED HOT INDIAN Guru Widok 8

From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry! UPMARKET INDIAN Bombaj Masala Wola Krochmalna 61

Under a ribbed, wavy wooden ceiling, revel in a plush interior while enjoying posh ‘street

TEX-MEX TASTES

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

Santa Catrina Radna 14

VIETNAMESE TASTE Viet Street Food Bistro Królowej Aldony 5/2

What started as a mere food truck has evolved into a proper sit-down space. The huge bowls of pho are a wise order to make, though our standard in this busy neighbourhood eatery is the fried beef with pineapple and oyster sauce. PREMIUM SEAFOOD Tuna Elektryczna 2

Resembling the scales of a fish, Tuna’s core decorative element are 18,000 tuna cans that sheathe the walls. Smartly appointed in dark metallic colours, visit for an exhilarating menu that includes salmon jerky, tuna sausages, an elaborately reconstructed dorada

tail and the best-selling chili con tuna. It’s an ecstasy of tastes. SOUTH AMERICAN FLAIR Ceviche Bar Twarda 4

With Argentine chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is naturally the default order, and here it’s served in around five different forms. The happening, cosmopolitan ambience is reflected by sublime cocktails. HARDCORE CARNIVORE Mięsny Walecznych 64

To some, it’s the best butcher for miles. To others, the greatest informal restaurant that Warsaw’s ever had. The truth is, Mięsny is actually both: where the latter is concerned, their steaks have no peer. For the budget-minded, the daily-changing lunch deal often hits perfect marks. THE UNEXPECTED MOD Oleandrów 8

Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with new media types. ONE OF A KIND Trójka Kielichów Stalowa 38 / 2

Is it a café? A restaurant? Wine bar? Cocktail den? The truth is,

it’s all of these yet none. A hybrid hangout at the front end of cool, under indigo tinted lights this scruffy yet theatrically hip room (it’s tiny!) serves killer breakfasts, fab cocktails, low intervention wines and beautiful bites such as Turkish pochette eggs. Radically creative, it’s akin to being invited around to an artist’s studio for a chat and a drink and some curious snacks. INSTA FAVE

Happa To Mame Hoża 43/49

Don’t look for a sign, rather for the queue that wraps its way around the corner. Specialising in matcha teas, the menu also includes dango rice balls and daifuku mochi filled with seasonal delicacies. Split in two rooms, the one that gets the most attention touts illuminated mesh-wired installations that hang like clouds. BURGERS

Burger.lab Piękna 28/34

If you thought the burger ‘thing’ had jumped the shark ten years ago, then clearly you haven’t been to Burger.lab. The venue alone is invigorating with things taking a truly wacky turn downstairs – looking like it’s been ambushed by graffiti artists, head here to chow down on non-standard burgers such as the Glam – sprayed gold, it’s packed with unexpected additions like strawberry sauce. A VEGAN THRILLER Dziki Królik Rzeczypospolitej 2A

The four-table intimacy of this timber-encased room charms immediately, and is accented by a neon pink flamingo, fragranced candles, and a

discreet pile of books such as Emily Hanson’s Modern Rustic. Head chef Magdalena Kurowicka’s involves Warsaw’s best tacos and more fine-handed concoctions that are veganized with love – for example, soy meat bourguignon. CITY CENTRE VEGAN

Peaches Gastro Girls Mokotowska 58

There’s jillions of vegan competitors sharing the same postcode, but no-one pulls it off like Peaches. Touting a cool, scuffed courtyard and radical orange interiors, the Portobello tacos are a Mexican love letter while the wontons deserve their own gold medal.

WELCOME TO GREECE! For authentic Greek food & hospitality, look no further than Mr. Greek Souvlaki! ul. Londyńska 16 (Saska Kępa)

VEGAN BRUNCH Lychees Bielańska 1

From the creators of Peaches comes this brill brunch spot. Design-wise, the pair’s taste for cool is unmissable and surmised by a wall of glazed ceramic tiles from Holland’s GBD.studio. The experimental dishes include a great congee served with cashew butter glazed in muscovado, salsa macha, salty angel wings, roasted shallot, and a topping of roasted soybean sprinkles. VEGAN NOODLES

Vegan Ramen Shop Finlandzka 12 / Jana Pawła II 52/54 / Kazimierzowska 43

We’ve heard some describe Vegan Ramen Shop as serving “the best noodles in the world!” They’re definitely memorable, and the spicy miso ramen will for sure convert those suspicious of this claim. Enjoy them in a trio of casual eateries each touting their own urban style.

BEST of WA R S AW 2020

Insider Approved: Best of Warsaw WINNER 2020!

warsawinsider.pl

THE CALL OF NATURE

Embrace tranquility in the heart of Warsaw

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

hough planted right behind a bus stop, Natural Concept still manages to emit a soft, holistic glow. Drawn inside, customers discover a small space that’s raw but refined: neutral colours, natural woods, leafy plants and some woven fabrics. Set against rough plaster walls, shelves stand neatly filled with grains and jars.

On mid-century styled furniture, sit in the window or enjoy the nook towards the back. As Warsaw rushes around outside, this venue feels a little like a sanctuary. Amid the February bleakness, Natural Concept is a safe space removed from the grind and gloom. Befitting of the prevailing mood, the drinks range from ‘immuno shots’ such as ‘The Orange One’, an invigorating potion of orange, ginger, turmeric and cayenne pepper, to freshly-pressed juices that mix grape, avocado and celery. There are salads to pick at, but to fully enjoy Natural Concept one must look to their smoothie bowls: the red bowl, coloured with raspberry powder, is a joy of blueberry, banana and a bit more raspberry. Selling more of these natural powders to pimp up your own smoothies at home, these number the fantastica blue spirulina. Take some back with you, but not before rewarding yourself with a wedge of vegan chocolate cherry cake – your soul will thank you.

Natural Concept Tamka 18

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Review

Save the date

alling on February 8th, few dates in Poland’s calendar are as cherished as Tłusty Czwartek (Fat Thursday). Marking the last Thursday before Lent, traditionally this date was seen as the last day on which devout worshippers could feast on treats that were shunned during the solemn fasting period. Over the years, that came to mean the humble donut. The statistics tell their own story. According to latest data, Poles spend PLN 176 million buying donuts on this day, consuming around 100 million in all. Undeterred by cost jumps, last year saw average prices rise to PLN 4.63 per donut, a leap of over 30%. Traditionally filled with rose jam or quince, in recent years more radical versions have emerged to compete with the old school pączek. Impossible as it is to carve room to list all of the stores worth knowing, we bring you some of the best of the best – from veteran legends to new wave vegans! TRADITIONALISTS Irena

Zakopiańska 20 & Paryska 39

Simply known to foreigners as ‘donut day’, the countdown is on for this year’s Tłusty Czwartek…

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

Stary Dom

Puławska 104/106

The ruling aesthetic conjures images of Warsaw’s upmarket, inter-war confectionaries. The desserts – and donuts – are traditional in style but premium in quality and price.

SHUTTERSTOCK

IT’S D-DAY!

Existing since 1937, this cult venue chooses to decorate its donuts with orange peel and pipe them full of plum jam. The results transcend description. Visit!

Zagoździński Górczewska 15

Serving Warsaw for 99-years, the most famous donut store in town sees queues stretch around the block. Side-stepping innovation, visiting is an essential Warsaw experience. THE NEW CREW Kukułka

Mokotowska 52 / Burakowska 15 / Francuska 10A / Krasińskiego 10

for show. The pretty boutique styling is eye-catching, but the biggest points are saved for spectacular flavours that have given the city’s patisserie scene a high voltage shock. VEGAN VANGUARD Baja

Solec 85

Hailed around the city for their vegan translations of dessert,

last year’s hits included donuts with plum and rum as well as passion fruit with coconut icing. Eter

Hoża 5/7

Inside an interior filled with retro furnishings, check Ether’s offer of fab vegan cakes and goodies. Last year, the donuts included pistachio-matcha and hibiscus-raspberry.

Kukułka’s desserts have lifted Warsaw in a celestial direction. Cream puffs, tartlets and cakes are the specialty, but the donuts that also appear are outstanding and often with radical jams. Lukullus

Lisowska 23 / Chmielna 23 / Rozbrat 22/24 / Walecznych 29 / Mokotowska 52A

Though their origins date to 1946, the individualised, ubercool interiors and modern desserts make Lukullus a shoe-in on this shortlist. Using rose jam as their filling, the donuts are a nod to the roots of this highly vaunted operation. MOD

Oleandrów 8 & Paryska 27

All the better for ignoring chemical nasties and mass-market shortcuts, the playful nature of MOD’s non-standard offerings is expressed via all-natural, boldly-coloured toppings such as matcha, mango, black forest gateau, salted caramel or hibiscus. MUUS

Tamka 22/24

At Muus, taste is not sacrificed warsawinsider.pl

PLAYER TWO, ARE YOU READY?

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

For a date with a difference, Warsaw has a fleet of options that allow couples to work together or compete against one another in games, challenges and quizzes…

warsawinsider.pl

CYBERMACHINA WARSZAWA Nowy Świat 54/56

Illuminated with neon lights depicting legends such as PacMan, this labyrinthine basement has it all: a 90s style retro living room for those looking to play Worms Armageddon, a separate room for Guitar Hero, a big screen for games tournaments, modern consoles and shelves filled with tabletop games such as Talisman, Dixit and Catan. Drinks include wacky craft beers and house shots and cocktails such as Robot Unicorn Attack. It’s young and fun!

ZAGRYWKI

Nowy Świat 4A Essentially a play pen for adults, head to this flashy, neon-lit spot to partake in silliness such as beer pong, crazy golf, fussball, karaoke, skeeball and just about any other daft pursuit you can think of. Yes, it’s loud, yes, it’s garish and yes it’s a bloody good laugh. And the really loopy thing is that neither have they opted for half-arsed drink solutions: if you’re expecting bland offers from the country’s macrobreweries then be surprised to find a small range of craft beers, frozen alcoholic slushies, capable cocktails and, of course, plenty of glow-in-the-dark shots to keep your evening lively.

PARADOX

Anielewciza 2 A self-confessed ‘sci-fi and fantasy asylum’, Paradox hosted Giorgia Meloni and ex PM Mateusz Morawiecki last year – how’s that for a power couple! Follow in

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

their footsteps for drinks under a giant map of Mordor as well as an impressive collection of tabletop games. Less polished that other venues of its ilk, Paradox has a warm atmosphere that serves well for an alternative date. And if things go wrong, browse Warsaw’s biggest collection of Polish and foreign language fantasy books – they’ve got over 3,000!

H.4.0.S

Marszałkowska 64 Akin to stepping inside a computer game, visitors find themselves treading up a green-lit stairwell that leads into the best-looking games bar that Warsaw’s ever had. Think: traffic lights, toilets disguised as elevator shafts, exposed pipes, industrial power units and big, glowing signs bearing slogans such as “game over” and “stay alive”. In the retro room find SNES, Wii,and Sega MegaDrive games (and even Commodore 64); in the team room, meanwhile, enjoy the latest generation PCs; whilst in the bar’s core choose from huge list of tabletop games. It’s stunning.

you’re ready to get hip,” reads the display, “turn on, power up and drop into my kinetic clinic!”).

QUIZ GAME Zgoda 5/20

Ever dreamed of competing on a game show with your partner? That dream comes true at Quiz Game, a one-hour experience that allows you to live the fantasy of playing games with names such as Letter Hunters and Golden Shot. Designed to look like a quiz show studio, games are overseen by a virtual host and are available in Polish and English.

SIM AIR

Taśmowa 8 Run by aviation professionals, the extraordinary Sim Air comes with five simulators that include an F-16 fighter plane, a cabin crew simulator, a Cessna, a Boeing 737 MAX 8, and an Airbus A320 NEO. There’s also demo passenger flights that will take you to Chicago, Adelaide and, on Valentine’s Day, to Paris and Venice!

PINBALL STATION

COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTER

Dubbing itself ‘an interactive museum’, Pinball Station glows up inside to reveal dozens of machines from our pre-digital age. Filled with relics in the truest sense of the world, the oldest treasure is a Brillant Torero machine produced in Germany in 1938. A thrilling blast to the past, this cavern-like space is one for the nostalgist. For a flat fee, test your talents on machines such as Dirty Harry, Buck Rogers and Dr. Dude & His Excellent X-Ray (“If

Survive an earthquake, fly on a magic carpet, stand on the moon or learn to tell if your partner is lying – the Copernicus Science Center keeps to its promise of making science fun by presenting a staggering amount of interactive displays and exhibitions, many of which can be enjoyed by two people. As a couple, when you’re done with fooling around the Science Center, head next door to stargaze at the Planetarium.

Kolejowa 8A

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20

learning preschools AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@

aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53,

tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL

(multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age.

ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

"Erdkinder" Middle School Tatrzańska 5a

Montessori High School Pytlasińskiego 13a

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW – EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Our Early Years Foundation Stage provides a play-based learning curriculum full of curiosity, wonder and discovery – the perfect springboard into Primary education. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84, tel. 22

646 77 77, thebritishschool.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English,

Montessori Farm School Białka 155, koło Radzynia Podlaskiego

Contact Office: 692 099 134

office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl warsawinsider.pl

Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan.

jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com

ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email:

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A

ADMISSIONS OPEN EARLY YEARS, PRIMARY, SECONDARY & IB admissions@thebritishschool.pl (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125

thebritishschool.pl

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

(entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel.

728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

schools

AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL

Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden. ul.

Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with inte-

grated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact: admissions@

aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

Values based Education, Nursery to Year 9 admissions@bswilanow.org ul. Hlonda 12 | Warsaw

bsw.com.pl +48 221 220 062

warsawinsider.pl

in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The THE BRITISH school continuesSCHOOL to meet the prinWARSAW ciples of Maria Montessori through Delivering an inclusive, rigorous implementing the IB Diploma and high-quality British education Program principles and practices. in a diverse and caring environWarsaw Montessori High School ment, mission ofIBTBS is to balance is an authorized World School academic success with character for the Diploma Programme – code building and well-being. Students 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. at The British School Warsaw 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl learn an internationally respected curriculum, based on the best of British academics. They take pride in their excellent results at both International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme (IBDP) and IGCSE level, which are well above the global average.

shopping experiences

ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 GALERIA PÓŁNOCNA 3281, thebritishschool.pl Białołęka’s first major shopping

center includes stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons include a 5,000 sq/m rooftop garden and THE PRIMARY someENGLISH of the best kid’s facilities on The English Primary is designed Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida specifically for children in the 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

primary education just as KLIF HOUSE OFages, FASHION

children experience in England Warsaw’s original luxury shopping but in an international center has a line-up ofcommunity. top boutiques Pupils are taken the & key that include Maxthrough Mara, Paul Shark learning stages so that they canklif.pl and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, achieve to the best of their ability throughUNII a fun learning experience. PLAC The Core Curriculum One of Warsaw’s latestsubjects mall counts include Jeans, English, Phonics, Science, Armani Liu-Jo and Pandora Mathematics, French, tenants. PE and Swimamongst its upmarket ul. ming, Music, Personal, Social and Puławska 2, placunii.pl Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 MYSIA 3 808, tep.edu.pl

The line-up in this trendy department store includes Scandinavian fashion THE CANADIAN in Cos, a Leica camera shop, Asfalt SCHOOL vinyl store, Japanese fashionOF WARSAW and accessories from Muji and INTERNATIONsunglasses from Gloomy Sunday. AL ELEMENTARY AND After, check into Reginbar for cooling MIDDLE cocktails in SCHOOL a hip atmosphere. ul. Located on two campuses in the Mysia 3, mysia3.pl Mokotów this is the only authorized IB SchoolSAWA with PYP programs taught WARS JUNIOR in Englishlocated, and Polish. French is Centrally perks of Wars taughtJunior as a third language. Offers Sawa include Poland’s only a wide and range extra activities, a in Uniqlo theoflargest adidas store summer school, and employs a the country. full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and WESTFIELD ARKADIA English support. International staff, Not many Polish malls do it better.

cultural andinclude challenging Stores inevents this giant Mango, student createand the perfect Lacoste,initiatives Guess, Hilfiger Peek & Bełska learning environment. Cloppenburg. Al. Jana ul. Pawła II 82, 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, westfield.com secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary.olimpijska@ WESTFIELD MOKOTÓW canadian-school.pl Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister,

Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, westfield.com

VITKAC THE INTERNATIONAL Poland’s first luxury department store TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF gathers the world’s top designers WARSAW under one roof, with brands including

Established in 1994, The Trilingual Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, School of Warsaw offers nursery, Gucci, Stella McCartney, Stone primary, andRick pre-school Island and Owens. education Further with an international curriculum features include a rooftop restaurant. for from one to 15. ul. children Bracka 9,aged vitkac.com The full immersion trilingual setting allows forTARASY the choice between ZŁOTE English, Polish, Spanishas oraChinese, Seen from the outside giant French or Japanese. are glass bubble, sellingTeachers points here highly-qualified native speakers include a Multikino cinema, a from the US, France, China of Calypso fitness club,Spain, and a branch and Japan.Rock ul. Nobla (tel. 501 036 the Hard Café.16 Stores include 637), ul. Karowa 503Hugo 072 high-end brands14/16 at Van(tel. Graaf, 119), Krolowej (tel. 533 Boss,ul. Guess and Aldony Victoria’s Secret. 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw. Global foods can be found at Kuchnie edu.pl Swiata. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

warsawinsider.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education.

ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL

Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences,

shopping experiences

while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@joyprimaryschool.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów

4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

MYSIA 3

The line-up in this trendy department store includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, a Leica camera shop, Asfalt

Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel.

Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for

787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

vinyl store, Japanese fashion and accessories from Muji and sunglasses from Gloomy Sunday. . ul. Mysia

WESTFIELD MOKOTÓW

3, mysia3.pl

WARS SAWA JUNIOR KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul.

Centrally located, perks of Wars Sawa Junior include Poland’s only Uniqlo and the largest adidas store in the country.

WESTFIELD ARKADIA

Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores in this giant include Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, westfield.com

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, westfield.com

ZŁOTE TARASY

Seen from the outside as a giant glass bubble, selling points here include a Multikino cinema, a Calypso fitness club, and a branch of the Hard Rock Café. Stores include high-end brands at Van Graaf, Hugo Boss, Guess and Victoria’s Secret. Global foods can be found at Kuchnie Swiata. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

4 9 km

Praga Zoo

6 ki aw

Powązki Cemetery

Andersa

7 Jewish Cemetery

6 Old Town

ska kow

szał Mar

Nati Stad

ska bow

Grzy

4 a zysk tokr Swie

Palace of Culture & Science

Pros

skie

lim rozo

e Al. J

3 1

Łazienki Park

19 km

4 km

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

ional dium

MAP 5

shopping Vitkac experiences ul. Bracka 9, 1

Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl

likusconceptstore.pl

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

museums

sport

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl 4

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl 5

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6

Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl 2

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl 3

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Legia Stadium Łazienkowska 3, legia.com

live music

Chaton Warsaw Foksal 19, chatonwarsaw.com/en

warsawinsider.pl

Looking Back THE STATION MASTER

orn in Hrubieszów in 1910, Romanowicz’s pre-war career promised much – at the age of 28, he co-designed the Polish pavilion for the World Exhibition in New York. Indelibly though, it is his designs for Warsaw’s train stations that have stood the test of time. Credited with the stations at Powiśle (a “pearl on rails” it was described by

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2024

some), Ochota, both Śródmieście staions, Stadion, Wschodnia and Ursus Północny, his designs were inspired by the times – in some works, such as Powiśle, it’s apparent how he was influenced by the Soviet Union’s forays into space. However, it is for the Central Station he will forever be known. “This project was my whole life, the result of many years of study. I experienced something that many artists can only dream of – seeing the implementation of my ideas.” Opened in 1975, and built using almost all of Poland’s entire annual supply of granite, the station was considered so ground-breaking that people would come from far and wide to admire the structure – replete with Swiss automatic doors, Italian clocks and American escalators, it was declared “the most beautiful landmark in our Socialist fatherland.” Since then, his work has been heavily scrutinised and, for a time, faced no shortage of criticism. Tellingly, dissenting voices have subsided as more and more stations have been renovated and restored to their sparkling best. A unique product of their time, Romanowicz’s sometimes bizarre bastions are a glorious throwback to post-war Poland’s brave, new world.

NAC

February 9th marks the 16th anniversary of the death of Arseniusz Romanowicz, an architect that transformed Warsaw’s transport network…

GREY WOLF

WARSAW 2023 NOWY ŚWIAT 55 | ALEJE JEROZOLIMSKIE 49

Hello Warsaw Noli Studios is a collection of serviced studios for home-seekers and travellers looking for more.

Book your studio now www.nolistudios.pl

With comforts of home and the amenities of a hotel, we offer more room to live!

Noli Mokotow | Postepu 24 | Warsaw, Poland | mokotow@nolistudios.com