Warsaw Insider July 2019 #275

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

JULY 2019

SPLASH INTO OLD TOWN Summer Guide 2019

275 07/2019

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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zł.10

(VAT 8% included)

AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE BIRMAN BALMAIN BEACH BUNNY BURBERRY BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CULT GAIA FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KIINI MAISON MICHEL MANOLO BLAHNIK MARC JACOBS MARYSIA SWIM ONETEASPOON SFELF-PORTRAIT TOD’S TORY BURCH VICTORIA BECKHAM ZIMMERMANN

Moliera 2

tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

9 News

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

FEATURES

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

18 Old Town Guide: Your key to the historic city center 32 Real Estate: 19. Dzielnica

Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

EAT!

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

39 Review:

Kur & Wino 40 Review: Curry Leaf 41 Review: Szóstka

ey Account Manager K Aleksandra Seweryn aseweryn@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Karolina Zielonka kzielonka@valkea.com

69 Review:

Loreta 70 Review:

Pardon To Tu 72 Review: Lunapark

DO!

85 Review:

Powsin Botanical Garden 86 Events 89 Museums 101 Essentials 102 Map 104 Obituary: Rosław Szaybo

Y

ou wouldn’t call it cold, would you? Blistering in its intensity, there were times when the annual summer sizzle left Warsaw feeling entombed within a suffocating hell of jungle temperatures. When you first landed here, did you ever really think you’d be half-grilled alive? But there is good news, namely the way Warsaw responds when boiling point is reached: it strips down and parties. For the last few years, that’s meant heading to the Wisła for one of the liveliest riverbank scenes in this part of Europe. While the left side has traditionally born the responsibility of keeping the city in high spirits, this time the balance has shifted with the much-talked about launch of Lunapark – this issue, we bring you the full story behind it on p. 72. Elsewhere, we’ve put our tourist hat on and prowled the Old Town to present an in-depth guide to the capital’s historic heart. And, somewhere in between, discover the city’s most authoritative rundown on restaurants and hangouts. Till next month!

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl on the cover There's no shame in being a tourist!

See p. 18 for our Old Town guide! (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2019

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

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VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2019 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

DRINK!

JULY 2019

BURBERRY CANADA GOOSE CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER ONETEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

PASAŻ WIECHA Cultural hub in the city center!

MUSIC, SUNBEDS, CHILL. MEETINGS, WORKSHOPS, CONCERTS. FASHION, ART, ARCHITECTURE. A hotbed of SUMMER ACTIVITIES IN THE HEART OF THE CITY.

Start: June 27 27-30.06 - Architecture 4-7.07 - Creativity 11-14.07 - Fashion 18-21.07 - Design 25-28.07 - Theater 1-4.08 - Film 8-11.08 - Art

Organizers:

Detailed schedule: www.warsawajunior.pl in Pasaż Wiecha tab For all events entrance is free.

Some of the workshops require registration.

Partners:

Pasaż Wiecha Cultural hub in the city center!

As part of a unique collaboration between War Sawa Junior and Aktivist magazine, Warsaw’s legendary Pasaż Wiecha is set to enjoy a new lease of life this summer whilst being transformed into a buzzing center of social activity.

To reach that aim, we’ve organized a program of workshops, creative actions, concerts and one-of-a-kind projects featuring inspiring guests.

Get ready for the best July ever!

POLNE WIANKI: WREATHMAKING WORKSHOP July 6, 17:30

Marcin Lesław Gładki, a florist, stylist and decorator, has spent the last three years successfully building his own brand. Inspired by both Slavic mysticism and the Baroque period, his floral arrangements have been worn by the Queen of Polish Pop, Maryla Rodowicz. Using flowers picked from the best florists in the country, his creations feature frequently in films and photo shoots – and now, you too can learn the secrets of his art. Note: registration for this workshop is required.

MY NAME IS NEW FESTIVAL: THE BULLSEYES July 5, 20:00

The Bullseyes are an alternative rock band comprised of singer/drummer Mateusz Jarząbek and guitarist/singer Darek Łukasik.

Increasingly recognized by the foreign music press, their first three singles were released in 2017: Love’s Blow, Regular Sky and Butterfly.

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2019

POKLEJONE MIASTO (CITY COLLAGE) July 12, 17:00-19:30

With the fully-fledged arrival of summer, mix flowers with the season’s fashions during a workshop that will focus on the creation of surreal costumes inspired by plants. A whimsical combination of art and fashion, play your part in the creation of avant garde outfits with a floral motif. Note: the workshop does not require prior registration. All tools and materials will be provided on-site.

TYPOGRAPHY EXHIBITION July 10

Typografy Warszawskie (eng. Warsaw Typography) is a series of typography exhibitions featuring Warsaw’s most important landmarks – the Palace of Culture and Science, Rotunda and Warszawa Powiśle Railway Station. It’ll also include an exhibition of the best contemporary architectural works as created by the most renowned street artists in Poland.

MAKE ME! EXHIBITION July 19

Regarded as one of the most important international competitions, Make me! enjoys a peerless reputation among upcoming designers.

Affording a glimpse of the future, this exhibition throws a spotlight on the stars of the future.

MY NAME IS NEW FESTIVAL: OLGA WIELGOMAS July 25, 20:00

Ola Wielgomas is a young singer and songwriter who has performed in several high-profile productions such as Krakowiaki i górale and The Nutcracker. Often deeply personal, her music is a window into her soul.

All events details with the current schedule are available at www.warssawajunior.pl

warsawinsider.pl

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in the

NEWS

TOWERING INFERNO Weekend revelers in the Polish capital were left stunned when a fire broke out on the 25th floor of a sky-

SHUTTERSTOCK

scraper sending debris crashing to the ground below. Effecting the Warsaw Hub, a 130-meter skyscraper currently under construction in the district of Wola, the blaze was spotted at 11 p.m. on Friday, June 7th, before rapidly spreading to other levels. As over 35 fire engines raced to the scene, crowds gathered below to watch the horror unfold. Described as a “difficult and busy night,” for the emergency services by a spokesman, it took 130 firefighters six hours to extinguish the inferno.

Despite the size of the fire – news of which was reported around the world – no injuries were recorded and the flames failed to damage the structural integrity of the building. Earmarked for completion in 2020, no significant delay is expected. Dubbed “Warsaw’s most future-thinking building,” by its developer, Ghelamco, the Warsaw Hub will, when finished, include 75,000 sq/m of office space as well as hotel and conference facilities.

An investigation into the cause of the fire is currently underway.

warsawinsider.pl

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News

CIT Y

Spider-Man Returns!

ENVIRONMENT

Horrific or Tree-riffic?

Originally installed in 2002, eyebrows were raised when an artificial palm tree standing in the center of Rondo de Gaulle’a seemingly died overnight, its glistening green fronds replaced by wilted, drooping leaves. Alarmed residents were left baffled by the palm’s sudden demise and took to social media to express their dismay. With the tree’s guardians – the Museum of Modern Art – remaining silent on the matter, the mystery was only solved when Joanna Rajkowska, the original creator of the project, stepped forward to reveal that it had all been part of a carefully orchestrated action to highlight the dangers of climate change and air pollution. The palm has since been returned to its glorious best.

TR ANSPORT

Riding Roughshod

With the backlash in full swing against the ‘arrive first, ask later’ strategy of scooter firms, the Ministry of Infrastructure has finally submitted a set of draft laws that aim to deal with irresponsible users and providers. Among the new proposals, scooters will fall under the same category as bicycles with users having to use bicycle paths where available – ‘only in extreme situations will scooters be allowed on pavements’.

Further, the Ministry also hopes to cut down on the thoughtless dumping of scooters by introducing regulations prohibiting people from ditching them in roads, bicycle lanes or any other place that might hinder traffic.

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2019

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: SHUTTERSTOCK, MIASTO JEST NASZE/TWITTER, KEVIN DEMARIA

A 31-year-old man was arrested at the top of the Marriott Hotel in June after scaling the 170-meter tower without ropes or harnesses. Identified as Marcin Banot, a Silesian blogger and entrepreneur with a passion for climbing, it took the daredevil 37 minutes and 45 seconds to complete his ascent.

Banot, who has previously conquered a 350-meter chimney in Romania and the 155-meter Humber Bridge, is not, however, the first person to surprise the Marriott’s guests by shinning past their windows. Frenchman Alain Robert did just that in 1999, a stunt that was repeated later that same year by Dawid Kaszlikowski, and again in 2009 by Bartłomiej Opiela.

News

ART

One of Warsaw’s most recognizable monuments was temporarily afforded superhero status after an artistic action group swathed it in a Wonder Woman cape. Standing at the intersection of Nowy Przejazd and Solidarności, the statue of Nike (as in the Greek Goddess of victory, not the sneaker), was originally unveiled in 1964 on Pl. Teatralny before being shifted to her current position in 1995. Perched on a 14-meter plinth, the 10-ton figure of the sword wielding heroine found herself subject to the attentions of a rebel art group called the Czarne Szmaty, who used the occasion of the 30th anniversary of Free Poland to scale the monument and pay their own tribute to Polish womanhood. Features of the customized cape included a Polish eagle emblazoned over Nike’s ample bosom and the stars found on the EU flag.

REAL ESTATE

Sold!

Subject to approval from the country’s anti-trust authority, the Warsaw Spire is set to change hands as part of a record busting deal amounting to 386 million euros. Completed in 2016, the 49-storey tower comprises 71,600 sq/m of leasable space and has come to symbolize Wola’s newfound status as the city’s Central Business District. Should the transaction go ahead, the 220-meter skyscraper will fall under the ownership of Immofinanz, an Austrian real estate giant with a heavy presence throughout Central Eastern Europe.

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2019

TOP PHOTOGRAPH: CZARNE SZMATY/#CZSZ + BIENNALE WARSZAWA. FOT. PAT MIC., BOTTOM, SHUTTERSTOCK

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SPORT

So Bad They’re Good!

Local amateur side ZŁY clinch promotion in style…

J

ust three years after their creation, Poland’s original democratic football club are celebrating their first silverware after being promoted as runaway champions of the eighth tier Klasa B Warszawa I league.

Built on foundations of social responsibility, openness and equality, AKS ZŁY’s story has captivated those disillusioned with the rampant commercialization of global football and attracted a new wave of fans otherwise deterred by the violence and politics associated with Polish football.

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2019

Coached by Antonio ‘Toto’ Shehadee, an Israeli Arab of Christian faith, and numbering players of Polish, Vietnamese, German and Georgian origin, ZŁY’s squad of chefs, lawyers, stagehands, violinists, bankers and psychotherapists started the campaign with a bang, recording a 16-0 win on the opening day of the season.

While the result was later annulled after the opposing club folded, the goals kept coming and so too the points.

Showcasing a cavalier brand of swashbuckling football, ZŁY achieved promotion in style playing in front of a

crowd increasingly known for their good-humored, carnival-style antics.

With crowds peaking at 650 – a staggering figure for the level – it’s proved a season to remember in more ways than one; joining the men, ZŁY’s ladies team also won their league thereby recording a remarkable double that’ll be remembered for years. “The ladies were the first to win promotion,” says Kris Gorniak, one of the 20 or so volunteers involved in the day-to-day running of the club, “and that was a moment of pure celebration: tears, champagne, a pitch invasion! As for the men’s side, the atmosphere was simply amazing when they clinched the title – I haven’t felt such good vibes for many years.”

With the fanbase expanding all the time, the prognosis is healthy with Gorniak anticipating attendance levels to break the 1,000 barrier in the coming future.

“I think our colorful, chanting circus is quite unique,” he says, “and I’m pretty certain you’re not going to find many other teams in the world where you have three generations dancing around having the time of their lives.”

On the field, Gorniak also foresees bright days ahead.

“Both teams are going to be gunning for promotion again and, with a few additions to the squads, I reckon that’s realistic. I’m sure it’s going to be an incredibly exciting season from a sporting point of view, and in addition to all that we’re also really pleased that our first junior team – a female under-17 side – looks close to making its debut.”

AKS ZŁY Don Pedro Arena (ul. Kawęczyńska 44, Warsaw), fb.com/akszly

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

News

News PUBLIC ART

Dream In Color

Surrealist painter Tytus Brzozowski wows Warsaw with his enthralling art…

A

SOCIAL MEDIA

Piece Of Cake

Marie Curie, the Warsaw-born physicist who conducted ground-breaking research into radiology, found herself back in the news following a hilarious mix-up that saw the Nobel Prize winner’s face imposed on a cake instead of that of pop diva Mariah Carey. Having requested a birthday treat adorned with the image of her favorite singer, British charity worker Siobhan Casey instead found herself gifted a Curie-themed cake after colleagues misheard her. The gaffe, exposed on Twitter, was re-tweeted 46,000 times and soon gathered over 200,000 likes. News of the blunder reached the best-selling artist who responded by cheekily suggesting that she too could have matched Marie Curie’s achievements had she not failed remedial Math.

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2019

BOTTOM, TWITTER/HARRIET LYE, TOP: KEVIN DEMARIA

dding to his expanding portfolio of outdoor murals, artist Tytus Brzozowski returned to the headlines at the end of May after his latest project was unveiled spanning the flank of the office block housing the city’s Municipal Roads Authority.

Eighteen-meters in height, his most recent effort features a floating city set on wheels, with further bizarre elements including tumbling dice and citizens drifting down from the sky with umbrellas in their hands.

Inter-laced with local landmarks – both past and present – the dreamlike work offers a richly illustrated chronology of the town’s architecture, whilst simultaneously showcasing the dynamic face of the Polish capital. “I wanted to reflect the fast-developing nature of Warsaw,” says Brzozowski, “and present a city that’s fun and full of people. The wheels, meanwhile, are symbolic of the capital’s mobility, and the choice of buildings show the different layers of Warsaw’s architecture.”

Having previously gone viral with his enchanting oil paintings of Warsaw (and beyond), the globally recognized artist has found himself branching out into large-format wall art: last year saw the debut of XL projects in the Praga Południe and Wola districts. “The murals aren’t my main focus,” he says, “but they do work together with my other art. The more people that become familiar with my work as a painter, the more people want a mural by me. On the other hand, the more murals I produce, the stronger my artistic trademark becomes.” To view his latest attention-grabber, visit ul. Chmielna 120.

For more info: t-b.pl

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Old Town Guide (Summer 2019)

OLD TOWN SURVIVAL GUIDE Skillfully rebuilt after its

wartime annihilation, it’s hard to fathom that there’s bits to the Old Town that are probably younger than yourself – looking around, you’d really never guess.

An unyielding statement of Warsaw’s indomitable spirit, the historic core is compelling, charismatic and a joy to behold… that is, at least, if you know where to head.

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2019

Royal Castle Completed in 1619 only to be later razed to the ground by the Nazis, the meticulous reconstruction of the zamek was only finished as recently as 1984. Magnificent and over-thetop, the interiors house numerous attractions, among them paintings

by Rembrandt and Canaletto. A thorough exploration is a must.

St. John’s Cathedral Though lacking the outright splendor of Poland’s other great cathedrals, St. John’s isn’t short on stories. Built in the 14th century, it’s here that Europe’s first constitution was signed on May 3rd, 1791. Costing extra to enter, the crypt contains the tombs of Poland’s last monarch as well as numerous other premiers and dignitaries.

Barbican Acting as a bridge between Old and New Town, the red brick barbican was first erected in 1540 and was rebuilt after WWII using bricks shipped from Wrocław and Nysa.

Today, a small but engaging exhibition detailing its history is concealed within its guts.

THE ESSENTIALS

No-one likes ‘being a tourist’, but when in Warsaw’s Old Town it’s the best way to be. If time is precious, then unfurl your map and tick off the biggies. Of the must visits, none are more essential than the following fab four…

SHUTTERSTOCK (5)

Rynek

It’s in the main square that the sheer beauty of Warsaw’s Old Town truly strikes home. Framed by elaborately decorated tenements, highlights include the iconic mermaid statue in the center and the mind-blowing Museum of Warsaw. After, bite the bullet with an overpriced beer to soak in the atmosphere and the sounds of the buskers. warsawinsider.pl

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Old Town Guide (Summer 2019)

Over 18s!

Marketed as an ‘interactive museum of fear’, the premise is simple: get people into a dark basement and then frighten the living daylights out of them. Disturbing and disorientating, it’s a high adrenaline experience that makes the hair stand on end: grope around a labyrinthine floorplan whilst being accosted by zombies, ghosts and masked nutters waving chainsaws. It’s not quite what one expects of Old Town, but it’s a welcome diversion that thrills all who visit.

Horror House ul. Wąski Dunaj 12/18, horrorhouse.pl

Monkey Tales!

Ever noticed the fist-bumping, bananaclenching monkey sat on the corner of the roof of the Branicki Palace (Miodowa 6). With the palace originally built in the 18th century (at a time when monkeys were widely regarded to be simple, idiotic creatures), for years historians were baffled by the presence of the primate – who in their right mind would commission such a work? The answer is, well, no-one. Largely destroyed during WWII, the palace was faithfully reconstructed based on the paintings of Bernardo Bellotto (a.k.a Canaletto).

Though the specifics vary, it’s generally agreed that Bellotto secretly added the ape to his painting as a wily way of gaining revenge: there are those who say the owner of the Branicki Palace had reneged on a deal with Bellotto; others claim that the artist simply had a strong dislike of the lady whose statue actually appeared on this spot. Either way, the last laugh belonged to Bellotto.

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2019

Under 18s!

Become a giant, enter a vortex, count infinite reflections or color your shadow. These treats and more await inside the World Of Illusion, a mad experience that isn’t unlike climbing into a Salvador Dali painting.

Contradicting the very laws of physics, expect a trippy hour of extreme optical illusions and mind-bending fun. Kids love it, but so too do all – the photo opportunities this place affords will look fab on your social media.

World Of Illusion Rynek Starego Miasto 17/21, museumworldofillusion.com

STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN! Having made it through the war with just token flesh wounds, St. Anne’s Church

came within a whisker of tumbling down entirely after the post-war construction of the W-Z tunnel rendered the surrounding ground unstable – only round-the-clock work by a team of 400 engineers saved the whole thing from crash downing. That’s good news for all for the glories of this church are copious: the Baroque, frescofilled interior is magnificent, though it’s the adjoining bell tower that truly steals the show. For grandstand views of Pl. Zamkowy and beyond, pant your way up the 147 steps to enjoy the city’s most picturesque viewing platform.

CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT; SHUTTERSTOCK, FACEBOOK, KEVIN DEMARIA, FACEBOOK

St. Anne’s Church ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68

Best View warsawinsider.pl

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Old Town Guide (Summer 2019)

Blink And You’ll Miss It!

The skinny house at ul. Kanonia 18 is proof that the concept of micro living isn’t a modern fad. Only just slightly wider that its door frame, its narrow form was a cunning ploy by its 17th century owner to avoid paying a hefty property tax bill.

A Most Wanted Man

The privately run General Kukliński Museum dedicates itself to honoring the Polish double agent widely hailed as ‘the most important CIA spy of the 20th century’. Among other things, you’ll learn just how close the world came to outright nuclear apocalypse inside this small but lovingly run project.

Wishful Thinking

See that glued-up bell on ul. Kanonia?

Stitched up after crashing down from St. John’s Cathedral during the war, it’s now common practice to circle it three times with your finger on the top before making a wish – presto, your dreams will come true.

DON’T CALL ME SQUARE

Beginning by the Royal Castle before opening up into a triangular ‘square’, ul. Kanonia is the cute, little street most pass without thought…

Snap!

The ZPAF photo gallery on Kanonia (official address: Pl. Zamkowy 8) houses interchanging, free exhibitions featuring some of the world’s top talents. Further motivation to visit is provided by daily Chopin concerts at 6 p.m. and a secluded back garden that’s one of Warsaw’s prettiest, tiny secrets.

Safe Passage

The covered overhead walkway spanning Kanonia was built in 1620 to safeguard the King after a deranged nobleman by the name of Michał Piekarski tried to club him to death as he made the short stroll from the Castle to the Cathedral. King Zygmunt III survived, whilst Piekarski was tortured to death before having his remains blasted from a cannon.

2012

That’s the year that Kanonia 18 lost its title as the country’s skinniest house. But if you’re going to lose your crown, at least do it to a world-beater.

Measuring 71 centimeters at its narrowest, the Keret House on Warsaw’s ul. Chlodna 22 now holds the honor of being the world’s thinnest home.

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Get Me Outta’ Here!

Of the ‘corrections’ that were made to the Old Town during its reconstruction, it was the addition of the W-Z highway running beneath Pl. Zamkowy that stood out the most. Lauded as one of the great engineering triumphs of PRL Poland, the building of a road connecting Western Warsaw to Praga was deemed such an event that the Wuzetka sponge cake – still eagerly devoured today – was named after it. Mostly famously though, it was the 1949 opening of the country’s first escalator that really wowed the public.

Leading from Pl. Zamkowy down to the mouth of the tunnel, ‘the moving stairs’ were deemed a major tourist attraction at the time; to this day, original signs have been saved warning children and those with heart defects against repeated use. Also preserved behind plexiglass are reliefs depicting brotherly Soviet-Polish friendship. If you’re leaving Old Town, there’s no better way to go!

Picture That!

PHOTOGRAPHS OPPOSITE PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA, THIS PAGE RIGHT NAC, ABOVE SHUTTERSTOCK

There’s no shortage of photo ops in Old Town, but for the best look no further than Dawna, a charming twitten bookended by two buildings that arch over the alley below. Five meters wide, and forty-three meters in length, its best-known embellishment – a powder blue annex positioned over the cobbles – was added in the 18th century to serve as a home for the parish priest. Going through the archway leads to a small alcove overlooking the river, an area commonly known as Gnojna Góra.

Functioning as the town’s rubbish heap until the mid-19th century (syphilitics were once buried here neck high in poop as a vaunted cure for their ills), today it’s become one of Warsaw’s most romantic viewpoints, something affirmed by the lovelocks clasped to its railings. Continue down the road to climb Kamienne Schodki to return to the Rynek. On this stone stairwell Napoleon is said to have walked in 1806, accompanied by Prince Poniatowski as the pair pondered Eastern conquests.

warsawinsider.pl

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Old Town Guide (Summer 2019)

Reduced to ashes by the end of the war, the story of Warsaw’s Old Town could easily be portrayed as one of tragedy.

Instead, it is the reverse: the remarkable tale of an indomitable city that never gave up…

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2019

“I

ARCHIVAL PHOTOS NAC

Back From The Brink

have seen many cities destroyed, but nowhere have I been faced with such destruction.” So spoke General Eisenhower whilst touring the ruins of Warsaw at the end of the war. This was not an exaggeration. Already scarred by the terror bombings of 1939, further devastation was visited on Warsaw as a result of the bitter house-to-house combat that marked the 1944 Uprising. The catastrophe further compounded by Hitler’s order to physically erase Warsaw after the insurgency had been crushed.

It’s hard to fathom the sheer scale of the devastation.

Such was its severity plans were mooted to shift the capital permanently to Łódź; to leave Warsaw as a windblown heap of bricks – a permanent memorial to the horror of war. For the communists, though, the opportunity to rebuild Warsaw as a model socialist city was too good to refuse. The question was, how?

Much of Warsaw’s pre-war architecture was deemed by authorities as too ‘capitalistic’, too bourgeois. As such, the tall 19th century tenements that had lent Warsaw its romantic silhouette were replaced, instead, by blockish estates and concrete carbuncles. But not all of Warsaw was given the Everyman treatment. In spite of some arguing for Old Town to be turned into an anonymous housing district (other concepts included transforming it into a park ringed by war

rubble), the communist party identified the value of rebuilding it from scratch. “The rebuilding of Warsaw was an act of national defiance,” wrote historian Norman Davies, and the reconstruction of Old Town “was shrewdly designed to establish the patriotic credentials of the post-war order.”

With the exception of the site of the former Jewish Ghetto, no other area suffered as much destruction as Old Town: of its 260 burgher houses, only the skeletons of six survived the war. The task in hand was not going to be simple, and was further complicated by interfering authorities. Indeed, it was because of busybodies that Old Town wasn’t restored as faithfully as it could have been. Pre-war photographs of the district were numerous, whilst during the occupation activists and architects maintained an exhaustive and extensive inventory of the city’s architecture lest carnage ensue. Even so, when it came to rebuilding Old Town these documents and photographs were largely overlooked by the planning committee in favor of twenty or so vedute authored

by Bernardo Bellotto.

However, the flaws in using Bellotto’s works as a blueprint were latent. While hugely talented and famed for his intricately detailed scenes, Bellotto’s paintings were was notorious for being prone to exaggeration and plagued by factual inconsistencies. If he didn’t like something, he didn’t paint it and would add things that weren’t even there: amazingly, these flights of fancy all made the final cut during the reconstruction process.

Just why did authorities reject more authoritative sources and back Bellotto instead? The answer is perhaps best explained in Rafał Muranowski’s essay exploring the relationship between political ideology and Warsaw’s Old Town: “Bellotto’s paintings were thought to capture the spirit of an epoch instantiated by the artistic patronage of the King, a figurehead of the so-called Polish Enlightenment, an era with which the nascent PRL seemed to identify. Bellotto’s paintings, with their depictions of magnificent palaces rising from the midst of shabby wooden huts, were thought to encapsulate the optimistic spirit of a young and virile Warsaw, as yet un-ravaged by the excesses of untrammeled capitalism.”

While the decision to rebuild Old Town was only officially rubber stamped in 1949, the necessary mechanisms essential to its rebirth were already locked into place. On February 14th, 1945, the Warsaw Reconstruction Office came into being, with the Department of Architectural Heritage established within its framework. Bossed jointly by Piotr Biegański and Jan Zachwatowicz, the two undertook a hefty project to list, categorize and preserve masonry that had survived intact – as a result, about 15% of today’s Stare Miasto is comprised of original Gothic and Renaissance fabric.

The work of the pair was also substantially aided by the enthusiasm of private homeowners who, as yet, had not had their homes appropriated by the government. It was on private initiative that the dwelling at Nowomiejska 10 became, in 1947, the first old town property to be completely rebuilt. At this stage, Old Town’s resurrection was still the subject of heated debate. According to one anecdote, what remained of the east side of the main market square was slated for demolition, allowing for unimpeded views of the river. On hearing this Zachwatowicz ordered workers to reconstruct the burgher houses, and pronto. His hunch that the decision makers wouldn’t want to offend the public

by dismantling the finished article proved bang on. While visiting the Rynek, party leader Bołesław Bierut declared, “we cannot knock down what the working class have built.”

That was in 1949, the same year Phase 1 of the reconstruction was initiated. The plan involved the restoration of the Rynek, as well as connecting streets such as Piwna and Zapiecek. The work was meticulous and backbreaking: the removal of 500,000 cubic meters of rubble was conducted via hods and wheelbarrows, horse-drawn wagons, and a mini rail line. The eventual arrival of a crane constituted headline news. To meet the demands of the reconstruction, plaster was imported from the Soviet Union, and gold leaf from the Czechoslovakia; at one stage, one million bricks were arriving daily from Wrocław. Finally, on July 22nd, 1953, the first stage was complete.

The political ping pong that followed Stalin’s death threw the reconstruction into chaos – other projects were prioritized, and work on Stare Miasto continued intermittently (the Royal Castle, would you believe, was only reopened as recently as 1984). Nonetheless, the sweat and the tears paid off in 1980 when Old Town was inducted onto the World Heritage List, with UNESCO officials citing it as, “an exceptional example of the global reconstruction of a sequence of history running from the 13th to 20th centuries.”

Others have not been so generous in their praise, with historian Marta Leśniakowska dismissing it as a “pseudo historical nature reserve.” Yet while the area undoubtedly has a contrived, Euro Disney air, it’s impossible not to admire the sheer bloody mindedness that led to its (re)creation. Without it, Warsaw would not be Warsaw.

Learn More!

Falling a little under the radar in terms of visitor numbers, the Heritage Interpretation Center on Brzozowa 11/13 offers the definitive, in-depth story behind Old Town’s rebirth. Supremely engaging, visitors leave with a head full of facts and a newfound appreciation of the Herculean work that went into the rebuild.

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Old Town Guide (Summer 2019)

The Mermaid

Displayed on the city’s coat of arms since 1390, the city’s mythological protector – the mermaid – has three statues in the city, the most famous being the one that stands in the center of the Rynek. Famed she might be, but Konstanty Hegel’s 1855 original has not had the happiest of histories. Destroyed and relocated countless times (hence her nickname: the walking statue), what you see in the center is a clone constructed in 2008 (find the Version 1.0 standing in the Historical Museum).

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ON A PEDESTAL

In a city not short on monuments and memorials, the most famous can be found within the confines of Old Town…

The Little Insurgent

Cold-shouldered by the communists who saw it as a rebellion fomented by the West, the 1944 Warsaw Uprising was erased from the history books for much of the PRL era. With people power growing under the Solidarity movement, the authorities ceded to popular demand and in 1983 allowed for the erection of a monument to ‘the Little Insurgent’. Modeled on Antek, a 13-year-old boy-soldier killed during the early stages of the battle, funds for the bronze memorial were raised by local boy scouts.

Zygmunt’s Column

Should you shift the capital to Warsaw, then expect a 22-meter column to go up in your name. At least, that’s what happened in the case of Zygmunt III Vasa. Constructed on the orders of his son in 1644, the granite column was inspired by those the family had seen on an earlier trip to Italy. Symbolic of bravery, it’s said if the sword he wields falls then Warsaw will face trouble.

Certainly, that’s what happened in 1944 when the column was felled by a single artillery round. Rebuilt in 1949, the original lies to the side of the Royal Castle and is considered lucky to touch.

LEGENDS OF OLD TOWN From the wistful and sad to the silly and absurd, the historic center is wrapped in mystifying stories and baffling tales…

Bear Hug Jan Kiliński

PHOTOGRAPHS OPPOSITE PAGE SHUTTERTOCK, THIS PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA

A masterful cobbler by profession, such was Jan Kiliński’s talent he rose to become one of the most prominent burghers in Warsaw (today, a largely unknown museum to him and his craft operates on Wąski Dunaj 10). He was a patriot, as well: raising a force of 20,000 men, he fought with distinction in the doomed 1794 Warsaw Uprising.

Raised in 1936, his statue was hidden by the Nazis inside the National Museum – once this became public knowledge, scouts painted the walls of the museum with the message: “People Of Warsaw, I Am Here!”

Moved back to his original home (on Pl. Krasińskich), the shoemaker was eventually relocated to his current position on Podwale in 1959.

The stone bear outside the Jesuit monastery next to St. John’s Cathedral is, in fact, a Mazovian prince! Nicknamed Prince Bear by people because of the extra weight he carried, the Prince became besotted with a young damsel; plucking up the courage to ask her on a date, he picked-up some flowers and then headed to the church he knew she frequented. To his shock, she appeared from it wearing a wedding dress. Dazed and heartbroken, he threw down the flowers and transformed into a bear. Shedding one final tear, he hung his head and then turned to stone. So it’s said, he’ll return to human form when he finds love again.

The Birds Prior to the war, Kazimiera Majchrzak would buy 5kg of grain and feed the flocks of pigeons that gathered on Pl. Zamkowy. Even during the occupation, the so-called Pigeon Lady’s commitment didn’t waver even though she was forced to sell her valuables to buy the required grain. Said to have lost two sons during the war, she became one of the first exiles to return to the city following liberation and once again set about her task of feeling the birds. Two in particular appealed to her, with Majchrzak claiming she could see the souls of her lost sons in them. Living in the ruins of Piwna 6, she was forced to leave her home in 1947 but was remembered via a relief above the doorway depicting a tight scrum of birds.

Monster In The Mirror!

Wars & Sawa

Dead north of the Rynek you find the monument most will forget: Wars & Sawa. Too many legends surround this couple to ever even come close to making sense, but suffice to say it’s to them we owe the creation this city!

If there’s one thing horror films have taught us it’s for Pete’s sake, stay out of the cellar! That’s something you’d have done particularly well to remember back in the old days, when an ugly basilisk stalked the catacombs of Krzywe Koło.

To cut a long legend short, a group of children ignored warnings about the beast and decided to nip into the cellars to find the treasure it guarded. Alarmed by their disappearance, a tailor went after the kids armed with a mirror.

On hearing the monster approaching, our hero shined his chosen weapon in its face, and the basilisk – aghast at his own hideous form – was turned to stone. Now, you’ll find a few basilisks sprinkled round town – not least at one of his old hunting grounds: Bazyliszek restaurant at Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3. warsawinsider.pl

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Old Town Guide (Summer 2019)

THE THINGS WE LOVE

Reopened in 2017 following a five-year hiatus, the Museum of Warsaw has struck back with a bang, blossoming from a dusty, old labyrinth into a treasure filled trove brimming with unexpected curiosities.

Following a looping, rambling trail, the experience begins in an opening section devoted to bizarre data (e.g., Warsaw’s first kebab shop: 1994), before trailing through a total of eleven townhouses.

Scramble up narrow staircases, duck under low thresholds and squeeze through narrow corridors as you pass object-driven displays such as The Packaging Room, a nostalgia-fueled emporium of old coffee cans, medicine bottles and cigarette packages, or another filled with numerous city postcards recovered from the ages.

Views, maps, clocks, medals are all awarded their own sections, forming a fraction of a total of 21 thematic rooms that arguably hit a zenith in the Room of Relics – a place where each object is housed in a display case dressed in gold leaf, creating a hallowed, even religious effect: among them, a saucer from the Bristol Hotel autographed by Picasso; the cigarette case of Stefan Starzyński, the Mayor who rallied the city during the 1939 Siege of Warsaw; and Peemek, a lucky toy monkey once used to conceal valuables during the war. Climaxing with dizzying views of the Rynek, it’s an experience that leaves visitors bewildered by the depth of its scope.

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl Admission: zł. 20/15 (free Thurs)

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Old Town Guide

The generosity of the portions does nothing to disguise the mediocrity of the cooking, but despite the so-so nature of the quality there’s an intensely lovable quality to Podwale that’s underlined by its boisterous, beer hall atmosphere and lively inner courtyard.

(Summer 2019)

Mazal Tov (1) ul. Podwale 29, mazaltov.pl Operated by the same group behind Momu and Aioli, their experience in pleasing the masses is mirrored by Mazal Tov, a restaurant whose menu is inspired by Ashkenazi cuisine. The tastes have an addictive street food style, while the courtyard garden is a shaded refuge from the Old Town hubbub.

Podwale Kompania Piwna (2) ul. Podwale 25, podwale25.pl

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Warszawski Sznyt (5) ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl It’s a fact of life that Old Town’s restaurants are marketed at tourists, so it’s revealing that so many locals gravitate towards Szynt. The steak menu on ground level never fails to hit the spot, while the modernized Polish cuisine upstairs is made even better by the picture book view of the castle in front.

Stolica (3) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 1/3, restauracjastolica.com An enjoyably nostalgic ride through bygone times, the atmosphere of the inter-bellum is reflected by a menu that celebrates the tastes of classic Poland with no quarter given.

Formal service and white tablecloth D R I N K arrangements lend a typically Old Town ambiance.

Bar & Books (6) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Świętoszek Tartuffe (4) Even regulars admit the prices are ul. Jezuicka 6/8, swietoszek.pl steep, but that’s the trade-off for Designed by a pair of successful drinking inside an elegant coach stage designers, this vaulted brick house tucked behind the Old Town cellar has an elegant chic look that’s walls. The wood-paneled interiors are as classy as the cocktails and come served by smooth bartenders that could easily play extras in the Bond films that spool endlessly by the bar.

E AT

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rare for the area. The menu refines traditional Polish tastes to present good-looking dishes made from regional ingredients.

Celi Bar (7) ul. Świętojańska 27/29, celibar.com.pl If the ground level looks like a mundane, tacky tourist joint, then that’s because it is. But persevere and head to the sweaty downstairs dungeon level for a fridge that surpasses all expectations with its impressive collection of Polish craft and regional beers.

Lapidarium (8) Rynek Starego Miasto 40, lapidariumcafe.com Not everywhere in the Rynek is an unmitigated catastrophe. At Lapidarium, sip regional beers whilst grappling with their signature half-meter sausage (!), homemade apple pie or gargantuan cheese boards. Adding to the enjoyment are friendly servers that aren’t there to fleece you.

Maryensztadt (9) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 11, restauracjamaryensztadt.pl Maryensztadt’s portfolio of beers gets better by the week. Increasingly experimental, find sour pineapple

IPAs sharing space alongside barrel aged coconut and vanilla stouts. There’s much to like, including a patio on one of the area’s quieter little squares.

Partner Check-in

Same Krafty (10) ul. Nowomiejska 10 With the lion’s share of Old Town’s bars content to serve second-rate lager from the big corpo breweries, Same Krafty win blanket praise for their hardcore commitment to artisanal beer. The primitive interior does nothing to stop locals and tourists alike from cramming it to the gunnels.

When critical mass is reached, head opposite to their sister pub Same Krafty Vis A Vis. STORES Bursztynek (11) Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co The largest amber jewelry store in Warsaw features an abundance of unique amber-related souvenirs as well as a permanent exhibition exploring the history of amber, its creation and its uses throughout history.

Lamus (12) ul. Nowomiejska 7, lamus.pl A magical world awaits of musty smells and leather-bound tomes. Complimenting the assortment of antiquarian books are a series of framed photos, antique maps, old coins and rare prints.

Lapidarium (13) ul. Nowomiejska 15/17, lapidarium.pl Cascading with trinkets, treasure, junk and bunkum, this antique store presents the opportunity for an afternoon spent endlessly rummaging.

Cavalry swords, pre-war Judaica, Orthodox icons, books, scrolls, helmets, cameras, chess sets, jewelry…

Museum Of Warsaw (14) Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl There’s a few thousand reasons to visit this museum, and its bookstore is one. The collection of Warsaw-related books isn’t easily surpassed, and the offer complimented by a healthy stock of tasteful gifts and souvenirs that you’re not ashamed to buy.

Polish Poster Gallery (15) ul. Piwna 28/30 Jazz up your living space with quirky art from the so-called Polish School of Poster. Though claustrophobic in size, contained within here is a fab horde of posters dating from the PRL heyday of this art form, right the way up to modern efforts from the recently deceased Ryszard Kaja.

The Return Of Świętoszek Tartuffe!

First established in 1986 by the Theater Guild as a place for performers to mingle, the freshly reopened Świętoszek Tartuffe has retained its artsy heritage under its new owners, and been fully renovated by the renowned stage designers Marcin and Mateusz Stajewski. Returning to the top of Warsaw's culinary ladder, chef Stanisław Nowogródzki brings 30-years of experience to the kitchen: known for his extensive stint at the Marriott, this much awarded chef has blended his enthusiasm for Polish cuisine with his own carefully honed sense of flavor and aesthetics.

Of his signatures, look out for pork chop with boletus mushroom and thyme sauce, as well as the restaurant's original-recipe Kajmak cake. Enjoy them in either our vaulted interiors, or outside on our ravishing summer terrace with views of the Wisła! Świętoszek Tartuffe ul. Jezuicka 6/8 Reservations: tel. 730 013 312 swietoszek.pl

REAL ESTATE 19. DZIELNICA

BORN FROM SCRATCH! Freshly established as Warsaw’s New Business District, Wola’s eastern flank has now also

emerged as one of the most enviable postcodes to live in. Katarzyna Kajak of the 19. Dzielnica project reveals the inside story behind Warsaw’s largest new housing development…

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Location, Location, Location

Cliché it might be, but location remains the most crucial consideration when choosing an investment site. “From the very beginning,” says Katarzyna Kajak, the sales and marketing director of 19. Dzielnica, “the area aroused the investors’ interest due to a location that enabled the implementation of an attractive and coherent large-scale development project.”

Have Foresight

If Wola was once best-known for its abandoned warehouses and decrepit tenements, today it has emerged as the confident face of 21st century Warsaw. “Not long back the area was heavy with old factories,” says Kajak, “but its location in the city center, near a planned metro station, and in the direct vicinity of several office facilities that were under construction, made it a very attractive target for us.

That significant investment potential is now being realized and has been confirmed by the rapid development of this section of Wola (City Center West), which in recent years has without doubt become the most dynamic part of Warsaw.”

Remember The Basics

Obvious concerns – such as infrastructure – are the most important aspects. “The availability of road, heating, energy and sewage infrastructure is of extreme relevance when developing a residential district, as building it from scratch will raise the cost of the entire investment significantly. The overall attractiveness of an area is often also determined by its neighborhood, access to transport, the network of services offered to residents as well as the availability of recreational areas.”

Be Clear In Your Mission

“19. Dzielnica was specifically designed to be an open part of the city with free access to common streets, squares and parking spaces,” says Kajak. “During the design process, a strong emphasis was placed on greenery, street lighting and architectural details. The buildings also have private green patios, available only to residents of particular buildings. Additionally, extensive market research was conducted before deciding on the structure of the apartments, their size and distribution: in our case, the majority of flats are either moderately-sized studios of 30-40 sq/m, or medium-sized of 48-60 sq/m. On top of that, we were also careful to include several large, two-level apartments with terraces in our offer.”

What’s In A Name?

“Choosing a name is a big moment when creating a brand as it will, eventually, have a considerable influence on a project’s marketing message. We felt it was important to have a name that had a legitimate story behind it; as there are 18 recognized districts of Warsaw, we chose a moniker that reflected our ambition to be identified as a self-sufficient district. It appears to have been very well received by our clients, with many of them identifying with the brand and often tagging themselves in 19. Dzielnica.”

Play The Long Game

There is no such thing as plain sailing. In 19. Dzielnica’s case, one of the major challenges was to persuade the public that Wola really would become the place to be. “Until recently,” says Kajak, “the post-industrial swathes of this area didn’t awake much enthusiasm among the capital’s residents, especially when compared to well-developed places such as Żoliborz, Mokotów, Śródmieście, etc. So yes, at the start it was a challenge to convince our clients of the qualities of the place and its huge potential, but over time we’ve been proven right.”

Dare To Be Different

New developments are a dime a dozen, with many assuming an everyman quality that blends into boredom. In this, 19. Dzielnica has broken established form via the creation of a project that has captured the imagination through its progressive philosophy and innovative vision. “When we were still in the design phase,” says Kajak, “gated communities were still very much in fashion: but we were determined not to fence ourselves off from the rest of the city. Furthermore, I think the architecture genuinely sets us apart from other developments – each stage was designed as a separate unit, but taken together it still manages to form a coherent whole. From the outset, 19. Dzielnica stood out because of exceptional solutions such as its glazed facades, thoughtfully designed green areas, and its wide range of architecturally interesting details such as wooden outdoor blinds and overhead metal bridges. Even though the project is big, I think we’ve created a space that feels like a haven in the midst of Warsaw’s urban jungle.”

Even though the project is big, I think we’ve created a space that feels like a haven in the midst of Warsaw’s urban jungle

Be Livable

“When building in the city center it’s a bit of a juggling act,” says Kajak. “On one hand, you need to fully realize the potential of the location, on the other, you need to keep the comfort of future residents in mind. Space is key: more space between buildings ensures a higher quality of life. You also need to remember greenery. The more green areas you can create, the more trees you plant, the more squares you introduce, the more people will enjoy living in your development. Likewise, you need recreational areas where people can meet or chillout, as well as commercial units in which restaurants, bars and stores can operate. All of these elements will add value to your project.” warsawinsider.pl

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AMBER À LA CARTE

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he Amber Room offers exquisite Ă la carte dishes that change seasonally and which are accompanied by a magnificent selection of wines handpicked by sommelier. The restaurant also offers a tasting menu and a varied lunch menu. In summer, the chef proposes excellent grilled meats and vegetarian options whilst the terrace, set overlooking Ujazdowski Park, is perfect for idling on long, sunny days that can be enjoyed along with delicious cocktails served in the Amber Room's bar.

Amber Room Restaurant Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. +48 600 800 999 recepcja@amberroom.pl, www.amber-room.pl

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2019

SAVE THE DATE: A NEW FESTIVAL TAPS DOWN FOR SUMMER!

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repare for a festival with a difference! In the historical setting of the Jabłonna Palace, the first installment of ‘Culture With A Palace In The Background’ will be held. Running on selected weekends until August 25th, our summer cinema and outdoor music concerts promise a unique experience for visitors and residents alike.

Seeking to make film and music accessible to all, the festival will be held on the glorious grounds of the 18th century Jabłonna Palace. By creating this festival, we aim to combine the cultural value of the venue and the spirit of its history and introduce it to a new range of visitors.

The varied repertoire of concerts will include Polish and French song, Latin sounds, country classics and jazz hits aplenty, all performed by both established stars and rising names on the domestic scene.

Cinema, too, will play an important role in the festival with summer screenings taking place in front of the Palace. Historical films will be prominent, but so too will musicals and blockbusters. Get outside this summer, and spend summer with your friends with a palace in the background!

CONCERTS 30 June, 5 p.m.

Concert by Chris Schittulli, Bogdan Hołownia and Bogdan Tchórzewski 14 July, 5 p.m.

Tango & Latino music from Michał Jung, Łukasz Parchta, Paulina Poławska 11 August, 5 p.m.

Concert by Gośka Andrzejewska, Pan Klimatyczny, Kimmi Kennsonen 25 August, 5 p.m.

Latin, jazz and country from Shandy & Eva For further details, see: www.palacjablonna.pl Pałac w Jabłonnie Modlińska 105, 05-110 Jabłonna warsawinsider.pl

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Sp Par ot tne lig r ht instagram.com/jc_lovfashion

#Moliera2Wings: a beautiful souvenir from Warsaw!

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instagram.com/monika_pietrasinska

instagram.com/maffashion_official

instagram.com/veronicabielik

instagram.com/ marcelina_zawadzka

Celebrities, influencers, tourists and, even, entire families, are clamoring to Moliera 2 to snap a picture in front of the first set of angel wings to touchdown in Poland. Already a global phenomenon, the angel wing trend is a playful reminder that nothing is impossible. Symbolic of love, freedom, ambition and happiness, feel inspired to pursue your dreams while taking a souvenir photo on the corner of Moliera and Trębalska. “We wanted to lighten the mood of the public,” say the creators, “as well as adding a little positivity to the city. Angel wings are already a bit of a global fad, so we figured why not celebrate it in Warsaw!”

Moliera 2 ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

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eat!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

GREAT LEGS & PERFECT BREASTS

It’s hard to fault a concept when it’s executed this well. In this case, that means chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska cooked rotisserie-style and then served either whole or halved on wooden trays with an array of homemade sauces that include sweet plum, spicy mango and Sriracha. And then there’s the sandwiches, beautiful things served on focaccia and smeared with honey mustard. Sure, you could call it street food, but doing so underestimates the level of love and attention awarded to the product. That you’ll be enjoying it in a cool, funky backdrop makes it all the better: outside, sit amid crates filled with palms, inside, among funky-style furnishings that pair well with the PRL look of this high-ceilinged chamber. Opened at the start of the year, it’s already enshrined as a local favorite.

Kur & Wino ul. Andersa 21, fb.com/kurwino warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! review

Curry Leaf ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl

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Convincing in

their authenticity, Curry Leaf present fullblooded tastes that leave the taste buds jiving

Bielany’s Curry Leaf offers a direct line to Asia…

The Place

Bielany is no stranger to Indian food, but with the existing competition limited to the excellent but basiclooking Curry House (yes, them of outdoor loo fame), Curry Leaf feels cut from a different cloth. Set on the ground floor of a new residential block, step into an interior that walks the line between warm and casual, smart and modern: carved deities lurk amid Tolix seats, chunky wooden tables and shining copper fixtures. Straight away, you’re at ease.

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The Food

Menu-wise, it feels like a familiar read – change the name on the cover and you could be in one of any fifty Indian restaurants in Warsaw. But if the menu has a sense of déjà vu, then the kitchen doesn’t. Convincing in their authenticity, Curry Leaf present full-blooded tastes that leave the taste buds jiving.

Exhibit 1: a saber rattling vindaloo capable of bringing sweat to the brow.

For those who don’t view Indian food as an extreme sport, then the more moderately spiced dishes are equally impressive: from the creamy, richness of the Chicken Tikka Masala, to the crispy, crunchy comfort offered by the brood of onion bhajis. It’s not food that bends boundaries through its modern interpretation or wacky experimentation, but it is food that’s reliable and respectful of Indian tradition. Enjoying it is easy.

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

A PASSAGE TO INDIA

Szóstka Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl

SIX APPEAL

The Warszawa’s sixth-floor restaurant wins blanket praise…

Where Am I?

The Hotel Warszawa. Reopened for business last November, find yourself inside a swank hotel occupying the pre-war Prudential building. First completed in 1933, and put into use the following year, the 16-storey tower was, for a time, Europe’s second tallest skyscraper. Iconic and historic, the image of it being hit by a two-ton shell during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising has become one of the defining images of the insurgency. Revived by the Likus Group as a design hotel, it’s a magnificent sanctuary from the world outside.

What Next?

Head to Floor 6. There lies Szóstka, a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling. But it’s outside where everyone heads, to a sparsely furnished terrace with killer views of the city below. Clinking glasses out here is the ultimate sunset moment.

Who’s Cooking?

Drumroll for Dariusz Barański. Once tipped by the nation’s culinary godfather, Wojciech Amaro, as the next Pole to win a Michelin star, his gastronomic style was influence by early stints at household names such as La Gavroche, Claridge’s and Sketch. This guy is good – and seriously so.

What To Order?

First, expect a load of freebies to land your way: in our case, a refreshing acai tea; radish with goat cheese and pickled rose petals; and a sprig of kohlrabi.

With applause still ringing for the amuse bouche, along came a vibrant starter of tomatoes, cheese and chives (zł. 34), followed by a main of prime beef rib served with a blob of onion ketchup (zł. 95). As an ending, the sorrel & mint parfait (zł. 34) felt like a cooling blast of contemporary cooking.

Fabulous stuff that’s backed up by cocktails of merit.

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EAT! Listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

american 42 bakeries 42 balkan 42 chinese 42 comfort & street food 43 desserts 44 fine dining 44 french 45 georgian 46 greek & turkish 46 hungarian 47 indian 47 indonesian 48 international 48 italian 54 japanese 56 korean 57 latin & spanish 58 mexican 59 middle eastern 59 polish 60 scandinavian 66 seafood 66 specialty food shops 66 steak houses 66 thai 67 ukrainian 67 vegan & wholefood 67 vietnamese 68

american Champions Sports Bar The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize their consis-

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tency: the food is always on-point while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 5119, champions.pl Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious.

Fun, innovative and pleasingly casual, it’s a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43

bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/piekarnia.aromat Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out. (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired

by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. many locations, sam.info.pl

balkan Na Bałkany This newbie modernizes the Balkan experience in a manner Warsaw’s yet to see: raw, industrial aesthetics meet

head on with a menu that adds a delicate finesse to a cuisine better known for its heavy, rustic style. The addition of a light, sophisticated hand has not, however, been to the detriment of taste. Of the favorites, the swordfish steak, lamb goulash and beef plejskavica sell particularly well. It feels all the more complete with a rakija or three. Full review soon. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 47 (entry from ul. Koszykowa 53), tel. 22 118 38 38, nabalkany.pl

chinese

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice.

The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar To Tu Dumpling Bar A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being

EAT! Listings in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia.

And that’s a good thing! ul. Niekłańska 33, chinskapierogarnia.pl Udon Noodle Bar Hidden behind fogged-up windows, the simplistic interiors belie a brief menu that has struck a chord with the local Chinese community for the authenticity of its hand-stretched Lamian noodles and freshly-steamed dim sum – they look good, and they eat even better.

Reminiscent of the kind of clattery venue found in China Towns the world over, what the Udon Noodle bar lacks in choice and aesthetics is counter-balanced courtesy of plump little dumplings you can’t get enough of. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 85

comfort & street food Barn Burger Considered one of the founding fathers of Warsaw’s burger culture, Barn Burger have withstood the test of time and emerged as the yardstick all others are judged against. Prepped using freshly ground Charolais beef, choices include the jalapeno-laid Muppet and the outrageous Bypass (400g of beef with quadruple cheese and bacon). If you want to go down in legend, enter one of their Americanstyle speed eating comps. (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Ben Bagel Harking to the area’s not-too-distant hipster past, discover a Williamsburgstyle hole-in-the-wall that’s all parquet, brickwork and flashes of groovy neon.

It looks cool, and you’re going to linger longer for all-natural, non-dairy piping hot bagels stuffed with unlikely exotica such as kimchi, bacon, cheddar, roasted onions and aioli sauce. It’s sticky, messy and flawlessly brilliant. NYC has never felt closer. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 8 Burger Bar Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl

Hala Gwardii Set within a charmingly distressed piece of Tsarist-era brickwork, it’s not just the depth of the offer that has kept crowd figures high, but the quality as well. Standouts in this food hall are too numerous to mention, but hat tips go towards the Gorilla coffee point; the meaty treats of Beef’n’Roll; the delicious dumplings at I Love Pierogi; and the English-style spuds served by Pieczone Ziemniaki. Last but not least, no-one in Poland scoops better ice cream than the team at Ice Pot. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl Hala Koszyki Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw.

Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Not ones to stand still, May saw the addition of a narrow indoor avenue towards the back flanked on each side by busy street food stalls. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com

stock up on artisan donuts, swag some Indigo-colored Palace of Culture socks, get the whiskers waxed or simply boogie on down to side-burned DJs rescued from the Lost Years of Hipster. A place of good vibes, big beats and beery, blurry nights, the essence of Warsaw lurks within. (A5) ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna), fb.com/nocnymarket Okienko When the chips are down and you’re looking for emergency nourishment, then join the queue outside Okienko: serving Belgian-style frites in paper cones, this street-side hatch is a true window of life. The roster of sauces, written up in marker pen on the wall tiles, are often superb. (D7) ul. Polna 22 Pogromcy Meatów Dude food doesn’t get much better.

Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508

Kura Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the posthipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. The ultimate definition of comfort food, look on Kura as one of the city’s best examples of street food culture gone right. (B2) ul.

Nowolipki 15, restauracjakura.pl

Postępu 5 Christened Mordor by the despairing employees who head there each working day, the area around Domaniewska doesn’t have the best public image. though, there isn’t just hope, but also a solution to realign the spirit of this quarter. Call it Postępu 5, a collection of street vendors housed in a line of former garages and storage units. Highlights inc.

Blin (for Russian-style pancakes), Hotto Doggu (Japanese hot dogs), and Roger That Foods, a close quarters burger stop immediately identifiable by the monster smoker set outside. ul. Postępu 5, postepu5.pl

Nocny Market This weekend market brings together dozens of street food vendors to form a patchwork of uber cool traders and hip little stands on a disused train platform illuminated with neon. But more than just an ultra-edgy collection of ethnic cook spots, the Nocny Market is the place to get tattooed in front of baying strangers,

Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings desserts Croccante Resistance is futile: surrender to made-on-site cronut creations such as the Philadelphia (strawberry sauce, white chocolate and cheesecake cream) or the Tropicana (mango & passionfruit cream, a shiny mango coating and Malibu with coconut milk), before forever slipping into a pleasing food coma inside a smart interior of glinting gold colors and soft velvet fabrics. (E5) ul. Żurawia 1A Deseo Burakowska Luxury desserts, pralines and tarts served inside an ivy clad building in a leafy post-industrial complex off Burakowska.

The contemporary style is reflected by an interior that’s modern, pared down and richly bathed in sloping sunlight. ul.

Burakowska 5/7, deseopatisserie.com Lokal Dela Krem That you can now buy vegan, mojito-flavored cupcakes in Warsaw is an indication of the city’s fanatical commitment to healthy living. A roaring success, the first vegan cake shop in the country has become a local staple. (D5) ul. Hoża 27A Lukullus Founded in 1946, Lukullus have evolved into a funky boutique cafe chain noted for quirky interiors and buzzy atmosphere.

Oh, and desserts. Renouncing short cuts and low-cost ingredients, this family enterprise has earned a name for top quality desserts that see traditional favorites updated for the modern times.

Various locations, lukullus.pl MOD Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. The mango topped donut is our favorite by miles. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 8

fine dining Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important.

Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm.

One for any bucket list, there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience. Abandoning their original home at the start of 2019, we’re visiting soon to see if anything’s

A MODERN BISTRO IN WARSAW'S MURANÓW Jana Pawła II 45a, lok. 38, Tel: 666 043 043 kromkibistro.pl fb.com/kromkibistro

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changed in their new city center venue.

(E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 792 222 221, ľatelieramaro.pl Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this pristine manor house is everything you expect: hushed, lavish, cultured and classy. The food fits the backdrop with a contemporary menu often drawing spontaneous outbreaks of collective joy.

Maze-like in its layout, there’s enough nooks and secret rooms to make Amber Room the ideal address for expense account meetings.(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F6) ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Chłodna 15 by Wilamowski Gone are the Alice in Wonderland decorations of the previous tenant, La Maison, replaced instead by a muted charcoal look that’s reassuringly refined – for the time you’re here, you forget you’re on the ground floor of a 70s tower block.

Aiding the amnesia is the classic French cooking of Arkadiusz Wilamowski: small and mercurial in its content, the dailychanging menu is a work of preposterous detail – no sauce takes less than a day to make. So the rumors go, Michelin are watching closely. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15 Europejski Grill The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware. Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a well-tailored crowd that expects nothing but the best.

(D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13

EAT! Listings N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl

Nolita BEST WAWA 2017 “Fine Dining” For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t.

Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Gro-

chowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel.

(D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com Senses Diners are best advised to leave logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘note-by-note’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the steep prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the

evening with a pungent, edible cigar.

(C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl Signature Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy.

Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl

french Bistro la Cocotte With access through a shadowy courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself. Presenting itself in a riot of red and white gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen and the atmosphere of home.

The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jour. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 12, tel.

664 906 000

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L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl La Cocotte Saska Already well regarded on account of a highly successful venture just off Pl. Zbawiciela, La Cocotte have spread their wings to set up shop in scenic Saska. A typical French-style bistro / wine bar, the offer includes a brief but largely brilliant menu whose main strength is its mussels. The wine list is substantial and French-focused and enjoyed by a smart, upmarket audience. (H4) ul.

Walecznych 68A Monsieur Leon Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets. Here, simplicity is the name of

the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur. With wine tipping down and conversation wafting around this compact, casual space, it doesn’t take a giant leap of imagination to think yourself in France. Reopened after a sabbatical, Leon’s return is cause for joy.

(E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 5

georgian Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Klukovka Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a

menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, klukovka.pl Rioni Warsaw’s foodies like talking of ‘cursed locations’, and they don’t get more hexed than Mokotowska 17. But despite its history of failed ventures, Rioni feel better placed than most to break the jinx. Set in a curving brick room lit by dangling overhead bulbs, join a young-ish crowd for juicy Georgian dumplings oozing with meat and herbs, hearty soups and big, doughy wheels of cheese-filled chaczapuri. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (enter from Pl. Zbawiciela), rioni.pl Rusiko To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel.

22 629 0628, rusiko.pl

greek & turkish Maho The generic diner decor bother no-one, and for pretty good reason – the food is thunderbolt good. Get the Iskender: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of tomato sauce and fresh pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right. ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Sofra A highly respected Turkish eatery with

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EAT! Listings a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us.

Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in.

(C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731

hungarian

Borpince Modernized versions of traditional Magyar cuisine come served in surrounds that feel even more familial given the 100-odd wines from the various regions of Hungary. (D4) ul. Zgoda 1, borpince.pl

indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl

Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curry-house.pl

Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave.

(B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl

Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl

Discover the True Taste of India in Several Locations around Warsaw WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL

HOŻA 54

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81

KONDRATOWICZA 59

536 443 771

508 870 774

789 444 921

(Śródmieście)

(Stare Bielany)

(Targówek)

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EAT! Listings

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Guru Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians. The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. Plus points for Indian-themed cocktails that really hit the mark – easily one of our favorite openings of 2018. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl Indian Taste Set within a new residential complex on the border of Żoliborz, this smart-looking labor of love presents traditional favorites alongside lesser-known choices such as mango chicken and lamb amritsari. If you’re in luck, find meals complimented with additional chili concoctions made by the chef. Pl. Niemena 1, indiantaste.pl

Rasoi A cheerful neighborhood style prevails in Rasoi, a friendly restaurant whose positive vibe is expressed via a design that mixes white wooden furnishings against a positive outbreak of colorful cushions. The North Indian food has a habit of raising spirits with its bold spices and authentic style. (C5) ul. Chmielna 98, rasoi.pl Smak Curry There’s been a nationwide pandemic of average Indian restaurants, but despite

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the rather slim menu Smak Curry can’t be included in that list of disappointments. On the contrary, what the menu lacks in size it compensates in taste: from big, walloping whacks of lavishly spiced pork Madras to sweet but subtle mango chicken, here’s a restaurant that feels it genuinely adds something extra to a saturated market. Complimented by bright, modern interiors and sunny, friendly wait staff, it’s a place that makes a blue day feel that extra bit better. (E8) ul. Belwederska 44

indonesian Warung Jakarta The menu has a street food edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34

international Ale Wino Blurring the lines between wine bar and restaurant, the style is easy, breezy and powerfully magnetic – occupying a spread of atmospheric rooms to the back of a Mokotowska courtyard, seats are sometimes hard to come by. The reason: chef Sebastian Wełpa. Of the recent highlights, the rump of lamb with horseradish puree, marinated carrot and bison grass sauce stands out as one of the Insider’s top meals of 2018. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Aurelio Run by a ‘neuro-gastronomist’, Aurelio aims to connect art and emotions with health and wellbeing via the medium of food. Psychobabble aside, what you’ll find is a beautifully laid-out restaurant with some mesmerizing art, a busy cultural program and a globally-inspired menu based on toxin free produce. For instance,

EAT! Listings order up a Thai-style duck breast served with orange-ginger puree, elderflower foam and smoked plum sauce – it’s likely you’ll be impressed.

(D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, aurelio.pl Bazar Kocha Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Bez Tytułu Gosh. Co-owned by the Kasia Michalski

Gallery to the flank, the restaurant feels like a natural extension: find contemporary art and photography set against raw brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a soft light down. Onto the important stuff, and Erwan Debono’s menu makes much of his native French background as well as Poland’s own rich access to produce.

The results come together in a way that’s nuanced and subtle. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Bibenda Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts.(D5)

ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef. (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and

• Breakfasts daily from 7.00 to 10.30

• Modern take on Italian cuisine

• An atmospheric garden in the heart of the city Focaccia Ristorante Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town +48 22 829 69 69, restauracja@focaccia.pl www.focaccia.pl

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EAT! Listings clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles. com.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar-winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.com Drukarnia Wrapped inside an ugly 1950s facade, this former printing house unravels to expose a sensational interior high on retro pieces: jagged-shaped stone floor tiles, a red neon and stern Socialist era

statuettes lend a heavy PRL accent, though the big statement at Drukarnia is supplied courtesy of the architecture itself. Tall windows, high ceilings and a peculiar spiral staircase that disappears into nowhere collude to lend Drukarnia a sense of light, space and depth. The food: limited choice of European standards cooked with competence. If you’re in the area, worth a look ul. Mińska 65, drukarnianapradze.pl Dyletanci Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Fest Port Czerniakowski Bring out the clichés: at Fest quality rules over quantity. Food-wise, there’s not much to choose from, but it’s doubtful you’ll find better ribs for a few hundred miles. Cooked outdoors on a beast of a smoker, these are glorious things of atavistic joy. Improving the mood yet further is the backdrop, a timber cabin in a wooded part of Warsaw.

There’s nowhere else like it.

(G6) ul. Zaruskiego 8

First Floor Restaurant Chic, elegant touches combine with a fully open kitchen visible from practically all angle. Live music is an inseparable element of the First Floor experience, with blues, hazz and Latino performances scheduled every weekend. ul. Kasprzaka 31 (Varsovia Apartamenty), firstfloorrest.pl

GarMasz Combining the functions of a store, butchery and, above all, a restaurant, GarMasz is the creation of Piotr Pielichowski, a cook best-known for his appearances on the Polish edition of Master Chef. A keen promoter of natural ingredients and fancy delicacies, his restaurant is stunning in every respect: three years in the making, even the interiors will blow you away.

Designed by Gdańsk-based architect Krystian Rassmus, details include oak finishes, 18th century tiling and swish chandeliers. Full report soon. (E4) ul.

Kopernika 5 Genesis What the hell is it? Seen as an amorphous blob composed of triangular white plates and large glass panels, Genesis restaurant is an instant head turner. the feeling is of stepping into your own futuristic space adventure. As for the menu,

Hungarian cuisine, modern interiors and a wine cellar in the very heart of Warsaw

ul. Zgoda 1, tel. 22 828 22 44, www.borpince.com, info@borpince.pl

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EAT! Listings that’s been revamped by the new chef, former Top Chef contestant Paweł Kibart, and makes use of a Mibrasa charcoal oven – apparently the first in Poland. (A4) Pl. Europejski 5, fb.com/genesiswarsaw L’enfant Terrible Looking like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, the unconventional style of Michał Bryś goes beyond surface detail alone. Promising maximum excitement, his imaginative menu isn’t short on daring twists and rollercoaster highs. Maverick in every sense of the word, this is a chef that pushes boundaries in a way few others would dare. Though the menu changes often, keep an eye on recurring classics such as ‘tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes’, a kickass course that presents the humble tomato in about ten different forms! (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705 Note: Now closed Kieliszki Na Hożej Set on the corner of an ornate pre-war building, Kieliszki casts a warm, beckoning glow on the street outside – resisting its charms is entirely impossible. The cooking is just as seductive and sees Polish mainstays such as dumplings, tartare and herring given a 21st century update. Superb wines, all of which are available by the glass, round out the experience. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

Kromki Better known for kebab stores and booze outlets, this section of JPII does at times chuck up the occasional surprise: Kromki, for one. The menu is a Jack-of-all-trades, with pizza and burgers rubbing shoulders against pierogi, steak and sharing plates.

Yet despite the randomness of the choices and the curious location, there’s something here that really strikes the right note. Expect tastes that work inside a informal, casual space that’s fast taking off as a local secret. Al. Jana Pawła II 45A Lente There’s a valid reason for the optimism swirling around Hoża, not least the launch of venues such as Lente. Revamping Mediterranean cuisine for the 21st

century diner, this casual spot feels suitably bright and sunny. Featuring the talented Terry Price in the kitchen, food here shines a spotlight on tapas and sharing plates and has thus far met with widespread approval. Full report soon!

(D5) ul. Hoża 43/49

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark.

The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl MOD BEST WAWA 2018 “Casual Dining” Where odd couplings are concerned, MOD takes the biscuit: hip donut store by day, at night it morphs into a cool restaurant whose card veers between steaming bowls of ramen and inventive modern dishes that harness the chef’s classic French training (think: beef cheeks with gremolata, tahini mash, veal jus and caramelized sprouts). It’s crazy popular with creative types touting man buns and t-shirts that threaten: “I Shoot Hipsters”. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/ MODOleandrow8 Mokolove A clear U-turn from the chef’s recent fine dining background (formerly the sous at Nolita, should you ask), there’s something welcoming and warm about this Mokotów venture. Already, you feel a familiarity in the air, not to mention a care and attention towards both produce and punters. The menu, meanwhile, speaks for the need of comfort with its offer of pizza, pastas and seasonal dishes such as pumpkin soup. But wait! The Insider was left disappointed on its latest visit in Jan. So say our notes: “mediocre service, empty restaurant and wrong order delivered!” (E9) ul. Różana 14 warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul.

Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Momu Dominated by meat that’s cooked using the only smoker of its kind in Poland, the menu is comforting and strangely familiar: these are flavors reminiscent of campfire nights – brawny, smoky tastes with towering Reuben sandwiches, juicy steaks, bone marrow and wooden slabs brimming with meats from MOMU’s smokehouse. Impromptu art, tweeting birds and a neo-industrial design add oomph to the busy ambiance. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu.pl Opasły Tom The ground floor – all swanky lighting and navy blue seating – is often packed, so it’s downstairs you may head to an intimate space more reminiscent of the original location formerly found on Foksal: here,

am

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it’s about muted colors and reassuring shadow. Characterized by its balanced, nuanced flavors and thoughtful combinations, the first menu to debut at this relaunched restaurant sees a medley of dishes you demand to eat again: pumpkin and curd dumplings served in a cheese sauce being the prime example. (D2) ul.

Wierzbowa 9 PamPam Large spaces, high ceilings, globe-shaped bulbs and plush rouge furnishings lend a sense of refinement to PamPam, a feeling that’s in line with a sophisticated menu that promises much with elegantly presented dishes such as sea bass with herbal curry sauce and oyster mushrooms. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, pampam.com.pl

Pera Inspired by their owner’s travels to New York, Dubai, Berlin and Paris, Pera looks to present a mix of Mediterranean and Asian tastes courtesy of Nestor Grajewski – he’s cooked for Scorsese, Diaz and Di Caprio, now he’s cooking for you! Al. Krakowska 248

Pink Lobster The door clatters shut to divulge a narrow space of tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath soaring ceilings that seem to stretch on forever. Bursts of flamingo pink colors lend a dapper sense of dazzle to this polished-looking venue. Food is an upscale work that, in spite of the Lobster’s name, awards equal importance to land and sea. Beautifully plated, dishes that the Insider fell for inc. sea bass ceviche, an exquisite exhibition of complex tastes set down in a slash of green on a plate that could pass for a work of sculpture. Immaculate roe deer and a series of extravagant desserts also won praise. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, pinklobster.pl Pizza Boyz Colors of lipstick pink and electric blue have you thinking you’ve walked into a packet of Skittles – if you don’t have a headache then you will in a second. A satirical comment on the modern world or a fascinating anthropological study of millennial culture? Whatever it is, Pizza Boyz is as in-yer-face as the name may suggest: order extreme pizzas with names like Coke Dope Cheezy Eazy (jalapeno plus Coca Cola BBQ sauce) or the Carolina Reaper, a pizza that boldly claims to the be the hottest on earth. The food isn’t great, but as daft as the concept is, people here have fun. Much against our will, we did as well. (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 17

BISTRO&DELI

Konstancin, Warszawska 60

SMACZNe -Ego

EAT! Listings Restauracja Warszawska BEST WAWA 2018 “Newcomer” Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue.

Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go for the golden schnitzel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s not a big menu, but it doesn’t need to be: exceptional in every respect, this restaurant has become one of foodie Warsaw’s biggest talking points.

Upscale-casual has rarely felt this good.

(D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2018 “Neo-Bistro” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmo-

sphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20. com.pl Sphinx One of Poland’s best-known and most popular restaurant chains touches down on Krucza to offer their tried and tested formula of steaks and Middle Easterninspired dishes. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, sphinx.pl Stixx It’s easy to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy

cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl Supperlardo Run as a side project by Mąka i Woda (quite literally – it’s right next door), it’s a stylish-looking spot that’s fresh, contemporary and even a little edgy: for evidence, refer to a mural designed by Swansky, a local big gun on the street art scene. As for the menu, that’s a riotously meaty romp that involves wood-fired hams, sandwiches composed of pork belly pastrami and salt-cured meats from Puławska and Mangalica pigs. With orders taken at the counter, it’s a place that lifts the canteen concept to new, unseen heights. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, fb.com/ Supperlardo Warszawski Sznyt Sure the Old Town looks cute, but that

Enjoy our patio with friends or for a quiet dinner for two at two of our locations

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo, no outdoor patio) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

www.lecedre.pl

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EAT! Listings doesn’t mean it can cook. Behind the frilly front rooms of the district’s restaurants lie kitchens of catastrophic reputation – they don’t exist to make you feel good, they’re there to rob you of your money. But rules have exceptions and in Old Town’s case that means Warszawski Sznyt. Outstanding Nowy Polski cuisine presented in prettified form, as well as a pan European menu bristling with regional specialties inside an interior that’s sleek, stylish and contemporary.

(D2) ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl Zoni BEST WAWA 2018 “Modern Polish” Located in a former Tsarist era vodka distillery, the interior revels in cast iron kilns, flooring produced from vodka barrels, long shadows and industrial bits and pieces that have been lovingly restored.

Sprawling, historic and not short on statement, it’s an address to impress.

And impressed you will be. Outgoing chef Aleksander Baron is a tough act

to follow, but incoming Michał Gniadek has already earned a name as a star of tomorrow. His menu is a departure from Baron’s ‘modernized heritage cuisine’, and instead looks set to present a more rounded, international gastronomic view.

We expect fireworks. Full report soon. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1, zoni.today

italian Altro Locale Set in a quiet section of Old Mokotów, it’s little wonder the plaudits haven’t ceased.

Owned by chef Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. You can tell Carillo has invested his heart and soul in this venture, and the result is an ever-changing menu featuring lamb chops, sirloin, and sea bream done the Italian way – don’t think you’ll be getting any pizza here!

Fittingly, its reputation is now extending beyond the district’s natural border. (E8) ul. Willowa 9 Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, avepizza.pl Dziurka od Klucza An enchanting locale in which enigmatic, lavender-painted doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be magically opened by the mysterious keys that hang from the numerous interior details. Set with empty picture frames and cotton ball lights, interiors just don’t get any cuter. As for food, the concise,

We could talk about food for hours!

Buying our produce from local markets, Antresola is a collection of Polish stories that reveal the flavors of our childhood and our love for food: whether it’s goose pate, duck in cherry sauce with dogwood tincture, or meringue with salted caramel and red wine jelly, Antresola is where the tastes of regional Poland come alive once again.

For food from the manor houses of Poland to its country cottages, visit Antresola to fall in love with the taste our nation.

ul. Wronia 45 (lok u2) tel. 22 415 25 25, www.antresola.eu

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EAT! Listings daily-changing menu is centered around homemade pasta – pride of place is given to the black colored pasta served with seafood. (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Focaccia The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl Magari As Raffles and the Warszawa proved last year, so the Puro demonstrates this year: hotel restaurants are no longer the preserve of travelers alone. A design-led, eclectic interior houses a venue that thrusts the talents of Mateusz Wichrowski

to the fore, with the highly-rated chef presenting a modernized spin on Italian cuisine. Already, faves include the handmade pastas, the spicy Nduja pizza and roasted duck breast served with stewed red chicory and Marsala sauce.

(D4) ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel) Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Otto Pompieri If you judge pizzerias on choice then Otto Pompieri’s modest count of eleven pizzas doesn’t promise much – but then it arrives. At zł. 21 for 42 centimeters,

the margherita offers the best value per sq/cm than anything out here, while the artichoke pizza reveals itself in an orgy of melty virtue. The retro Little Italy look is rounded out by a cooking brigade that engage in banter and bravado while spinning dough in the air: it feels and tastes ideal. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, fb.com/ otto.pompieri Posypane A casual restaurant with handmade pasta made fresh on the day and a choice that includes ravioli with chorizo and shrimp, bucatini Bolognese with seasoned beef and rosemary, and a creamy mushroom pappardelle. Then, adding to the sense of being somewhere young, fun and a little bit hip, is an edgy design featuring a wall of kitchen implements, hanging ropes and exposed concrete. In an area already rife with niche eateries aimed at the modern day Varsovian, Posypane feels like a satisfying addition.

(D5) ul. Hoża 43/49

Jana Moliera 4/6 22 826 5958 moliera@sakana.pl www. sakana.pl

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EAT! Listings Prosciutteria Powiśle Buzzing with warmth, here an interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed brickwork, and black and white images of Italian icons sets a casually good mood that’s sustained by the owners. They’re knowledgeable, as well. If Prosciutteria feels good, then it tastes even better.

Based around cold cuts, find heavy wooden boards loaded with imported delicacies from small producers that the couple have befriended: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; pork belly fat dry-cured for six months; salami from Milan and Naples… There’s more, of course, but it all becomes one in this orgy of pleasure.(F4) ul. Solec 85 Smaczneego In one room, an informal space set with groceries and baked goods amid crates and tables, and in the other, an intimate dining room that exudes warmth and wellbeing and feelings of home. For food, the first class selection includes Ragu-

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sano cheese, matured for 24-months; meaty Etna olives marinated in sea salt and olive oil; Il Viceré cheese with saffron and black peppercorn; and layers of ham from small-scale producers. It gets better still with Ligurian-style focaccia that’s soft and oily and everything good.

Washed down with wines from the likes of La Torre, the feeling is of languorous good times on a holiday abroad. ul.

Warszawska 60 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), fb.com/smaczneego

japanese Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well.

From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul.

Piękna 54 Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi also strikes the right note. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fat Buddha Immense in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberry-colored drapes,

EAT! Listings what would otherwise appear as an oversized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. Japanese in spirit, the menu pitches a refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4 Mizu Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, Mizu’s sushi sets a benchmark that Warsaw’s other Japanese joints can only aspire to. The off-center location adds to the impression of dining somewhere that only those in the loop know about. ul.

Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl Mugi More and more Japanese ventures are proving there is life beyond sushi, and Mugi is one such place. Specializing in ramen noodles and kushiage skewers (battered meat and veg served on a stixk), further bonuses include Choya liqueurs and a fun design that’s not short on Manga graphics. (D5) ul. Wspólna 37/39 Sakana Sushi & Sticks It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art, and in Sakana that’s exactly what it is.

Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations, their creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness. (D2) ul.

Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 59 58, sakana.pl Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Mangastyle art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget.

Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis. At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary

space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton.

Come summer, the scene ramps up a notch with diners flocking to a prim garden area that’s billiard green in color.

(A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right.

Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel.

728 827 705, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl Yatta Originally born from a food truck, Yatta’s stationary address is everything you want: scruffy, frayed and busy, and the living embodiment of the street food vibe. The ideal outlet for their concept, step inside a rackety interior to join other hip creatures Instagramming the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw. Once you’re done doing that, kick back to slurp over big, steamy bowl of spicy miso ramen.

(E3) ul. Bartoszewicza 3, fb.com/YattaBowl

korean The Cool Cat Proving something other than just a faddish flash in the fire, The Cool Cat has caught the zeitgeist by the horns and come to represent the hip Powiśle style; casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times. Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on. (F4) ul.

Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/KoreaTownRest

The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Sora Korean food is big news in Warsaw, though increasingly it’s the Americanized K-food style you’ll find. Sora returns to the roots with tabletop BBQs, lively spices and lashings of Makkoli wine. The number of Korean guests is an endorsement in itself. (A4) ul. Wronia 45

latin & spanish

Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg.

Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of

10, Narbutta Street

reservations tel. 668 779 400

dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, casapablo.pl Ceviche Bar BEST WAWA 2018 “Ethnic Dining” With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche – raw fish marinated in citrus juices and cilantro – is the default order, with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the the salmon tiraditos: served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying

BARBECUE SEASON

in the garden MONDAY-FRIDAY from 18.00

SATURDAY-SUNDAY from 12.00

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EAT! Listings sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy.

(C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns.

A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce.

(A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl

mexican El Popo Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota. Old it might be, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere. A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican

kitchen is brought to life via the full-fisted flavors of chef Angel Aceves. (C2) ul.

Senatorska 27 Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel.

22 848 9523, gringobar.pl La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior

heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54

middle eastern Dar Mounia Moroccan food finds itself lifted to new levels at Dar Mounia, a beautiful space that strikes a careful balance between the refined and the exotic: decorative floor tiles, cascading greenery and gold fixtures deliver a look that feels deliciously alluring and full of subtle promise. The food befits the backdrop, with a menu that presents authentic dishes assembled with a delicate, sophisticated hand. Full report

Flavours of Warsaw - traditional Polish cuisine with a distinctive modern touch. Everything is made from fresh seasonal ingredients.

Enjoy, among many others, beef tartare with lovage mayonnaise, white truffle powder and marinated wild mushrooms.

Or try our mouth watering Dumplings stuffed with veal and marinated squash in red lingonberry sauce.

Or perhaps you have a taste for duck breast with squash purée and a French potato in a dill emulsion. To finish off delight in our home made pastries.

Restaurant and Pastry 48 22 621 82 68 Żurawia str. 47/48 Warsaw Pastry and Cafe 48 608 046 406 Felińskiego str. 52 Warsaw www.smakiwarszawy.com

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EAT! Listings soon. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, darmounia.pl Kumin One of the big hits of 2018 is back open, this time in new digs on Gagarina. Casual and easy on the eye, features of the new address include a woodsy outdoor terrace and a laidback vibe set to a permanent state of chill. The food? Wow. Few places do a better job of replicating the aromatic taste of Middle Eastern lamb. (F8) ul.

Gagarina 33 Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot).

And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that

carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes.

It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine.

Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air.

(C4) ul. Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl

Maghreb Featuring the casual air of good times, head to Maghreb for vibrant Moroccan classics such as merguez sausages and tajine dishes served in traditional earthenware vessels. With the first chills of winter lapping at the door, it’s a restaurant that provides solace and reassurance. ul.

Burakowska 9, maghreb.pl

Shuk Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day. ul. Grójecka 127 Sokotra Casting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra is a welldesigned nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl Tahina Small and lively, it’s a spot that brings together authentic Middle Eastern tastes with no quarter given: beef, for instance, is marinated for two days before being slow-cooked for 36-hours. Served in a featherlight lavash, there are those that would call this a kebab, but doing so would severely undersell the goodness in your hand. Demonstrating a fiendish attention to detail, Tahina is nothing if not characterized by its scrupulous specifics: look out for Iraqi-style scrambled eggs with dates, not to mention generous tahini bowls cascading with juicy chunks of chicken, and traditional coffee heated in a pan of sand. (C5) ul. Wilcza 26, fb.com/ TahinaWilcza

polish Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s

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EAT! Listings cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2018 “Best Chef” BEST WAWA 2018 “Tasting Menu” While Bez Gwiazdek rejects the core principles of fine dining, don’t for one minute expect anything less than food that whispers refined sophistication. Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the standard Polski feast.

Just when you thought you had worked out the nation’s cuisine, along comes Robert Trzópek to rewrite the rules. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Bistro Pod Sowami Talk of Praga’s revival feels a bit more serious now that Bistro Pod Sowami has opened. From the outside, this corner tenement is a study in neo-gothic indulgence. On the inside, the muted elegance is perfectly partnered by cooking that sees traditional Polish given a modern reinvention. But will they survive the recent departure of chef Damian Wajda – we’ll be watching closely. (F1) ul.

Okrzei 26, fb.com/bistropodsowami Brawo Bis Widely recognized from his work presenting the domestic version of Hell’s Kitchen, Michał Brys returns to the kitchen with a new venture, an informal-style restaurant with battleship colors offset by cabaret posters – a busy cultural program is in the works, and so too a menu that will seek to reprise the pre-war tastes of Warsaw. In the meantime, find a small but excellent array of dishes that make a big deal of the chef’s big passion: baking! Sample dishes so far include beef cheeks and chimichurri piled on a wheel of wild yeast cake. Simple but brilliant. (D8) ul.

Sandomierska 13 Ćma by Mateusz Gessler Open round-the-clock, Ćma has rescued the city’s night owls from the evil clutches of the center’s grisly kebab dens. Set against an edgy, moth-themed

interior designed by guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki, this on-trend nightspot elevates late night dining to new heights with a menu that involves modernized Polish delicacies such as sausage with horseradish emulsion, black pudding with apple and… goose stomachs. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 63, mateuszgessler.com.pl Czerwony Wieprz An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl

MODERN TAKE ON JAPANESE CUISINE

Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here 'deconstructed Polish'. In actuality, 'reconstructed' would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics

OPEN EVERY DAY 12:00-23:00 GROUND FLOOR WARSAW SPIRE, PLAC EUROPEJSKI 2 +48 668 925 959 WABU@WABU.PL | WWW.WABU.PL WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/WABUSUSHI

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Traditional Polish Cuisine,

Ĺťurek

(traditional sour rye soup)

Golonka

(roast pork knuckle)

Placki Ziemniaczane

(potato pancake with gulash)

We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi z owocami Fruit dumplings

but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9

EAT! Listings and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl

Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl

LAS This rail-side communist pavilion has been transformed courtesy of a thorough makeover featuring a jungle of plants, low, muted lighting and the addition of smart charcoal colors and revamped retro fittings. As for food, then familiarize yourself with Anna Klajmon. Having made her bones at Grunt i Woda, her farm-to-fork philosophy has followed her here. Cooking with an air of freedom, there’s a natural goodness to her menu that belies the modest pricing.

Highly seasonal, on our visit that meant gorgeous oxtail pierogi with peanut butter and hazelnut sauce. Don’t mix the ‘local cocktails’, either. (F4) ul. Solec 44, fb.com/ las.warszawa

Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece

Le’pię In a restaurant that feels pure and feminine with its pristine tilework, gold cutlery and pastel pink finishes, the dumpling is given a remarkable, artisanal makeover.

Handmade with love, find unlikely fillings such as pear and peach complimented by a pour of honey-ginger syrup, or black pudding squashed in with cranberry and crispy shallots. It’s all quite brilliant, in fact, brilliant enough to feature in a BBC travel segment aired over Christmas. (E3) ul. Topiel 12

Polana Smaków Compact and woodsy, it’s retained the intimacy of the original, the only difference being a design that feels less country cottage and a little more designed – big curtains, trimmed shrubbery and the liberal use of pre-war tiling all add to that impression. Food-wise, and this place remains a passionate advocate of the natural tastes of Poland; find shiny slithers of marinated herring posed on an arc of pumpkin and orange sauce, or mains like catfish in dill cream with smoked potatoes and porcini mushrooms. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. (C5) ul. E. Plater 14 Prasowy Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 Pyzy Flaki Gorące Head to decrepit Brzeska to unearth one of Praga’s favorite little secrets.

Serving the best pyzy in town, find your little dumplings squashed into glass vessels then lathered with various toppings. Arguably the best budget meal in Warsaw, this is the essence of Poland served in a jar. (G1) ul. Brzeska 29/31 Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225 Schabowy Red gingham tablecloths are just about the only decorative element in this plain

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EAT! Listings Jane restaurant; aesthetics don’t figure highly, and that much is clear through an approach to plating presentation that’s best described as basic. But boy, they can cook – simple but delicious, the food here is Polish home cooking at its best: great ingredients used to even greater effect.

As the name suggests, schabowy is the star, and here you’ll find it served in three different forms. ul. Obrzeżna 1, fb.com/ schabowy.warszawa Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208 Stolica Set in one of Old Town’s smaller, lesser-known squares, Stolica charms with its pre-war, slightly formal ambiance: pristine white tablecloths and spotless mirrors combine with classic Warsaw tunes to generate a storybook atmosphere straight from the pages of Tuwim and Gombrowicz. Food-wise, you’re looking at typically local dishes such as venison marinated in bison grass vodka.

(D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 1/3 Talerzyki It sounds a little absurd, but Talerzyki manage the implausible by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming up trumps. Fiercely Polish in spirit, the menu looks to revive the essence of inter-war Warsaw with its selection of classic recipes presented in scaled-down form: blood pudding with apple and cinnamon; beef tongue and horseradish; and white sausage with fermented flour sauce. It sounds glum and gory but its anything but – and the style mavens of Mokotowska appear to agree. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35 U Fukiera New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a

fairytale. Set in a 500-year-old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl Wuwu A vodka bar next to a vodka museum inside a former vodka factory… yep, at Wuwu you can’t escape the facts: vodka is everywhere. Wuwu’s reputation for peerless cocktails (based on you know what) and late hours (closing time: never) has grown exponentially over the months, but so too has its standing in the food chain thanks to a local-centric menu that reintroduces the public to the forgotten tastes of inter-war Warsaw: duck tongues with grapes and hazelnuts; a signature tartar lashed with homemade fermentations; not to mention blood sausage with pickled apples and a deep bread sauce.

Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul.

Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Zielony Niedźwiedź A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet

ul. Burakowska 9 Call 888 785 848 warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the menu gives star billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry full; but the truth is these aren’t the only heroes. Taking the reins in June, new chef Oliwia Bernady has grown in stature and skill preparing a daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 795 794 784, kafezn.pl

scandinavian

specialty food shops

Nabo Open-faced Smørrebrød sandwiches are a specialty with toppings including ribbons of herring with curry egg paste and a flurry of greens, but Nabo also extends to cover other aspects of the new Nordic style: the fish goulash is recommended. ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl

Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12

seafood

Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, glutenfree smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl

L’Arc French in style, seafood dominates the menu of L’Arc with the lobster and oysters a particular standout. Enjoy it inside a classic interior that feels assuredly upscale. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl Lokal na Rybę Open just three days a week, the limited hours have created a supply / demand situation which sees this basic-looking venue often packed out. The menu is revised on a weekly basis though never really goes beyond three starters and a couple of mains – but that’s all they need to captivate the public. In recent times, octopus goulash and smoked herring pierogi have played distinctive roles. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/lokalnarybe U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks

like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl

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BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul.

Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl Dobrze Co-op The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture.

Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables

and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A & ul. Andersa 27, dobrze.waw.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Hala Gwardii Taking its cue from the market places of Lisbon and Marseilles, Hala Gwardii aims to reprise its former pre-war role as the city’s best-known food market. Designed to complement rather than compete with Hala Mirowska outside, the market is a sensory big bang with dozens of stalls specializing in everything from cheese and sausages, to rolled Thai ice cream and posh pet supplies. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii Kram A supermarket worth your time. Putting small scale producers to the fore, find veggies courtesy of the Majlert farm and grocer Pan Ziołko, daily deliveries from the Mąka i Woda bakery, dairy courtesy of Mleczna Droga, and several cult Polish brands such as Concept Stu Mostów. Craft beers, bio wines, and softs from the likes of Fentimans and Galvanina complete the quite extraordinary lineup. ul. Duchnicka 3, facebook.com/kram.nativeingredients

steak houses

Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that

EAT! Listings takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf. Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl Butchery & Wine The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl Ed Red Warszawa You can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel.

603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Merliniego A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses.

The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market.

On our last visit we splurged on the

Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime.

Simply amazing. (E10) ul. Merlineiego 5, merliniego.pl

thai Bangkok Soi In terms of interior design, find no more than some Chang beer pennants, Muangthong United football scarves, and film posters with unidentifiable titles.

Strangely, however, the basic look feels pleasingly honest. Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, find vigorously spiced red curry, Som Tam salad containing hard-to-find ingredients such as green papaya, and Tom Sap soup loaded with lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and tomato. In this whir of full-throated flavors, it’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50, fb.com/Bangkok-soi San Thai Positioned inside a glass-fronted oblong room, San Thai feels chic and smart with just the right amount of Asian masks and decoys to remind you that, yes, you will be eating Thai. Upmarket but never intimidating, the interiors are harmoniously balanced with a menu that whistles with authentic tastes: delicate pouches of steamed homemade dumplings; King Prawns in a snappy phanang curry; and the kind of Pad Thai that could be sent across Poland fulfilling ambassadorial duties for the nation it represents. (C3) ul.

Próżna 10, restauracjasanthai.pl Thai Thai A visual feast of ink black colors and shimmering deities this is by far the most formal of Warsaw’s Thai options – and also the best. Peaks include a grilled beef salad full of citrusy twists, lively flavors and vibrant colors, and sundried pork neck that’s all manly crunch and nose-clearing sauce. And then there’s the tuna tartar, a dish zinging with fresh hits of coriander, mint, lime and chili. There’s no point in complimenting the chef, he’s heard it all before. (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel.

601 818 283, thaithai.pl Thaisty The most successful business model

pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality.

Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl Why Thai A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl

ukrainian Kanapa Ukrainian food gets a fine dining makeover inside a plush villa that’s all sweeping staircases and theatrical chandeliers.

Rich and raucous in some parts, refined and delicate in others, the food is a credit to the cunning of the chef. (E8) ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/kanapa.restauracja Rest.Baczewskich A grander opening there has not been this year. Inspired by the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv, dishes include Galicianstyle herring and beef cooked in pork fat and served with white porridge and fried cabbage – as classic as they sound, presentation is pure 21st century and fitting of the luxurious surroundings of this one-time palace. Full review coming soon.

(E7) Al. Szucha 17/19, baczewskich.rest

vegan Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl

the vegan path,” says Malka Kafka, the owner of Tel Aviv. As such, find a plantbased menu that gives the tastes of Israel a fancy schmancy style – so fancy that Depeche Mode ate here last summer! (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl

Falafelove Cramped, sweaty and uncomfortable, Falafelove’s customers choose to overlook the aesthetic shortcomings for one very special reason: this is falafel that sets a new benchmark. Recommended is the spicy wrap, comprising of ‘red falafel’, humus, harissa, sundried tomatoes and tahini. If there’s space, join the others on the terrace outside. (C2) ul. Senatorska 40

Uki Green A union of two of Warsaw’s favorite fads, Uki Green presents vegan ramen noodles inside a minimalistic interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes. Brought to you by the owner of Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. It’s been open three minutes, but already Warsaw has found a new object of affection – visit.

(D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/ukigreenramen

Kuchnia Konfliktu First came a food truck, then a cargo container. Now, Kuchnia Konfliktu have a legit address they can finally call home.

First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but more importantly its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. Full review next issue. (D5) ul. Wilcza 60

Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte – order the ‘hot romantic’, a combo featuring chili, avocado and tabasco. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/leonardo.verde. restaurant Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Tel Aviv “People shouldn’t be excluded from high standards just because they’ve chosen

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Vegan Ramen Shop Co-joining two fads is always a risky business – just ask Loco Mexicana. All of a sudden, the focus doesn’t fall on just getting one thing right, but two. But despite this double-headed challenge Vegan Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond the boundaries of Saska Kępa. Enjoy in a cool interior filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’.

(G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A Youmiko Vegan Sushi Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza Tran Tran It looks promising enough, with dark woods and images of paddy fields mixing with the reassuring clatter of an open kitchen, and so it proves with the arrival of the food: just to really grab you by the nuts and prod you into reaction, look no further than the beef served in a velvety ooze of mango. It’s a dish of simple clarity and vibrant freshness. Faithful in their presentation of Vietnam, Tran Tran’s a very solid addition to this maturing ethnic category. (E5) ul. Wilcza 20, fb.com/ restauracjatrantran Ukim Though not as high profile as Warsaw’s other gastro streets, Chłodna’s emergence has been no less spectacular. But fine dining and fancy wine bars aside, it’s actually the more standard venues that make the area feel so vibrant. Take Ukim, a cheerful joint decorated with steel Tolix chairs and blooming palms. Covering vast tracts of Asia, the menu, for the most part, feels enjoyable and authentic in equal measure: start with duck and mango spring rolls before moving onto mains such as crispy, sticky chicken in tamarind sauce. (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, ukim.pl

vietnamese

Vietnamka Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. Infused with a gentle sense of chaos (drinks after mains, mains before starters), there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing.

Exceptional in every respect, the cooking here sails Warsaw’s Asian scene into uncharted waters. (D5) ul. Poznańska 7

Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a

Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of some of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu contains steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens: both are brill. (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/vietstreetfoodpl

EAT! Listings

DRINK!

HIT THE ROOF

With the city’s rooftops spread below, and its towers glinting in the sunset, there aren’t many places the Insider prefers to be this summer than on the roof of the Puro cradling a cocktail in its paws. This is the setting of Loreta, a bar that channels the spirit of this design-led hotel brand through its funky décor and eclectic art. The terrace, though, is the clincher. As night falls, retreat to a deck signposted by a neon the color of bubblegum pink; here, amid bristling greenery and low-slung seating, join other cocktail hounds enjoying house sips such as the Loreta Cup – a sophisticated mix of whisky, agave, chili and lemon. Good as these signature drinks are, the best bet is to challenge the gunslingers at the bar to make something a little more personal: armed with top-class tipples such as Vestal vodka or 23-year-old Zacapa rum, the results are always cracking.

Loreta ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel), purohotel.pl/en/warszawa

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MANY HAPPY RETURNS!

Back and better than before, the legendary Pardon To Tu reopen for business…

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What You Missed

Pardon To Tu: remember them?

Regarded as one of Warsaw’s most experimental live music venues, its closure at the start of 2017 was a kick in the crackers for the city’s alternative ‘night people’. As wrote our resident music man, it was a place in which “evenings get lost in a heady swirl of innovative sounds, with the foggy atmosphere given a helping hand by an unorthodox audience that gels together into one vibrant mass.”

But having seen the original venue on Pl. Grzybowski bulldozed as part of the area’s relentless redevelopment, the feeling among their fanbase was one of ‘game over’. Not so fast. Having appeared in pop-up form the last two summers, the management have finally found a permanent venue to call home.

What’s Changed

If the old PTT looked rebel and renegade and a little scruffy around the seams, then the new version is

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT

drink! Review

Pardon To Tu Al. Armii Ludowej 14, pardontotu.pl

“

An upgrade on

the original, PTT adds an extra layer of depth to Warsaw’s social scene

definitely more sanitized: squelchy, scuzzy toilets? No chance. Set inside a corner unit of the PWC office building, it’s a place that feels well-armed for the requirements of modern Warsaw.

And there’s the size: woah! In terms of footprint, it’s not all that much larger, but the sense of scale is distorted by a ceiling that reaches to the heavens – for prime viewing, use the spiral stairs to gain a bird’s eye perspective from the mezzanine level.

What’s Not

The vibe. Fears that PTT may have ‘gentrified’ pass immediately. The spirit, the soul, and all the elements that made it magic remain much the same: and so too to do other things – there’s the Wall of Glory, namechecking all the obscure bands through which they channel their message; the rich, decadent colors; and the strings of light bulbs that illuminate the patio; and, for better or worse, the piano has made it from storage, ready to be tinkled by musical guests.

What To Drink

Cider and pilsner on tap, and a fridge full of the latest, edgy beers from Poland’s artisan breweries. As an added bonus, those that remember the malfunctioning fridge of yore will be pleased to hear that the new one actually does what it’s meant to do.

Food-wise, the focaccia rocks!

What We Think

By their very nature, sequels are more miss than hit. Not in this case. An upgrade on the original, PTT adds an extra layer of depth to Warsaw’s social scene with its flexi hours, maverick music policy and air of unforced cool.

Once the gig diary fills up over the coming months, that sense of something special will only get stronger.

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Lunapark ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, fb.com/lunaparknadwisla

THE LUNATICS HAVE TAKEN OVER

Lazy days and crazy nights at the biggest hit of the summer so far…

What Is It?

Put simply, the most imaginative F&B concept that Warsaw’s ever seen.

Set in an abandoned outdoor leisure complex running to the flank of a busy highway, dip down a concrete stairwell to discover a wild world of food stalls, games, drinks and weirdness. Created by the same people behind Nocny Market (not to mention Gram and Warmut), consider it a haven of hip and a hedonist’s asylum. Nothing prepares you for what lies ahead.

Spill The Beans Then…

There’s an element of Coney Island here, what with a circus-style big top entered via the mouth of a cackling clown; a bar set around a carousel; a

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bank of fairground games; and a shot bar disguised as a shooting gallery. But that’s the tip of the iceberg. Explore further to find a crazy golf course, a boxing ring and street performers prowling on stilts or breathing fire. Everywhere you look, expect something odd.

Madness Reigns?

Not always. Daylight hours are chilled and serve to attract the complete range of human: from dog-walking couples and curious oldies to victims of style and the new privileged class. Everyone, seemingly, gets along fine – and why wouldn’t they? Here, the world happily unites amid the pungent aroma of flames and food.

Did Someone Say Food?

Dubbed the ‘mini market’, it’s here you’ll find a number of stalls lined-up banging out brilliant ethnic cooking to all those assembled. Sit on repurposed oil drums under neon lit tubes before digging into African street food from the hand of Botswanan chef Joseph Seeletso, the Neapolitan pizza of Salsiccia, or the grilled, skewered meats from Brasil On The Plate. There’s more (much more), with enough variety to last a few lifetimes.

And Evening?

Is when the lunatics takeover and the party shifts up five gears. Pounding beats and alternative fashions lend a free spirit vibe to the party in front and it becomes easy to forget just where you are – Poland? Surely not. Defined by its incredible energy and madcap backdrop, this will without fail be the sensation of the summer. No-one else stands a chance of stealing their glory.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

drink! Review

(Thurs 6 p.m. to 3 a.m., Fri 6 p.m. to 4 a.m., Sat 2 p.m. to 4 a.m., Sun 2 p.m. till midnight)

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drink! Review bars & pubs The Alchemist A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale pub grub from Brit chef Ed Shellard, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers.

Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink just seems so right. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl Bar Pacyfik Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada. (C5) ul. Hoża 61 Bar Studio The bombastic, gaudy surrounds of the Palace of Culture are brilliantly juxtaposed against a varied program of events that slot perfectly with the artsy spirit of the activists and intellectuals that comprise the regulars. It’s a party to remember.

(C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl

Beirut & Kraken Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades,

sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar.

As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices.

(D5) ul. Poznańska 12

Central Bar The natural focal point of Hala Koszyki, this ever-stretching bar gives the vigorous impression of being bang in the middle of somewhere that’s nailed the city’s imagination – certainly, the buzz from the beginning has shown no sign of fading. Bonus points for a rather good Pimm’s. Without fail, it remains Warsaw’s favorite meeting point. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

Gram Head up the stairs from Warmut (see Cocktails) to uncover Gram, a small room designed to evoke the feeling of stepping inside a circus tent. Set with arcade games (Pac-Man! Space Invaders!!), it’s a super fun space with a fridge of craft beers and quirky little details: look up and you’ll find monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling! You are, in effect, inside a playground for adults. (D6) ul.

Marszałkowska 45/49

Koko & Roy Already appearing in our Restaurant section, a growing reputation for long, merry nights is enough to earn Koko & Roy a second listing in the mag. Drink carefully composed cocktails and craft beers from the epic Stu Mostow brewery in an American-run resto-bar that’s starting to attract the full gamut of expat nationalities. An upmarket but quirky décor (Princess Leah on the wall, Antony Bourdain in the toilet) is matched by a maverick playlist, spontaneous atmosphere and open hours that have a habit of becoming seriously flexible when the weekend arrives. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43 Legends Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch.

Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. (C5) ul.

Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Między Nami With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe. com

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome.

The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

A unique atmosphere and a menu based on steak! Visit also for oriental and international dishes, vegetarian choices, burgers and Middle Eastern mezze.

Start the day with breakfast, pop in for a family dinner, catch-up over coffee or book a romantic dinner. And remember we have karaoke on Wednesday, DJs on Friday, and live music on Sat! ul. Krucza 16/22, www.sphinx.pl

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Przystań Nowa Fala Playing more than a bit part in the Wisła’s gentrification is Przystań, a sleek moored vessel with ample seating both inside and out. On the first level, order from a bar well-stocked with renegade beers, world wines and funky cocktails, before heading to the open upstairs deck to join a fun, cosmopolitan crowd convening under

drink! Listings the stars. (E2) Bulwar Gen. George’a Smitha Pattona

Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes. Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights. (D5) Al.

Worek Kości H.P. Lovecraft would love it. Decorated with replica skulls (400 reckons the owner!), this place is nothing if not a passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre. Burlesque shows are their specialty, but at other times don’t be too shocked to stumble in on meetings with private detectives, seminars with criminal profilers or gigs by bands with names such as Bipolar Order. Crazy, brilliant, etc., and ideal for a night with a difference.

(E7) ul. Bagatela 10

Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl

Stixx A slick industrial design and a location in the long shadow of the Warsaw Spire keeps this venue’s huge dimensions occupied with workers fleeing their offices once the clock strikes five. Come summer, when the roof rolls back from the all-weather terrace, there aren’t many better spots in which to enjoy the noble tradition of the after-work pint. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

Targowy God knows what their secret potion is, but it’s probably something to do with a democratized offer that has something for all: craft beers, hardcore vodkas, decent cocktails and a staff that’s friendly, enthusiastic and always ready with a one-liner. The design is basic (plastic crates, blue lights), but they don’t need anything more to make it feel special. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1

W Oparach Absurdu Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, script-writing beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of a Balkan band. Expect the unexpected.

(F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts.

(E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B,

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Wozownia Founded by the same people behind the ‘ruin bar’ inside the original Hala Koszyki (back when it was a decrepit pile of wobbly, black stonework), Wozownia brings together the hip and beautiful inside a 200-year-old carriage house.

The beer front is pretty dull, but the cocktails can be outstanding whilst the Prosecco is pretty much the cheapest glass of bubbles you’ll uncover in the city.

A sensation over summer, it’s one of the top pre-club spots in the center. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16, fb.com/WozowniaBar

cafés

Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right.

Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. (D5 ul. Wilcza 42,

Czytelnia Definitely distant, but there are those that travel the city to visit – if you take coffee seriously, then you will as well. Home to the city’s best flat white (fact!), this husband and wife operation is warm in ambiance and appearance, and the drive for quality reflected by their habitual acquisition of the latest equipment. Al. Zjednoczenia 46

FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to the hippest barber shop in town (tatts, beards and crazy whiskers!), the presence of this pocket-sized café gives Muranów a fresh, bold swagger.

Coffee aside (the cold brew rocks), the disarmingly friendly staff and locals generate one of the best café scenes for miles whilst the collection of toy figures (Bart Simpson, DC action heroes and a gun-toting Pacino) feels brilliantly off-beat.

(C1) ul. Andersa 6 Forum Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops.

Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. (C3) ul. Elektoralna 11, forum.coffee

Francuska 30 The terrace is the place to be, sat shaded from the sun by dozens of brollies that dangle overhead. The coffee, brewed using Chemex, Aeropress and Drip methods, is a big deal, and complimented

by French crepes served from a combi van parked outside. Inside, it’s cool, minimal and reassuringly artistic. (H4) ul.

Francuska 30

Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world. (D5)

Hałas Vinyl + Coffee At 15 sq/m it’s a squeeze but Hałas doesn’t half pack a punch within its small footprint. Doubling as a record store, it’s the kind of place where hip punters stock up on Winehouse and Bjork while ordering up coffee ordered from roasters such as London’s Dark Arts roastery.

In summer, the outdoor bench is the sweet spot everyone wants to occupy. ul.

ul. Hoża 58/60

Jagiellońska 30

drink! Listings Lapidarium It’s high time that the Old Town Square had a café worth visiting, but would have thought that it would be a museum providing such? Run under the aegis of the Museum of Warsaw, visitors choose from rustic meals prepped locally by Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie, regional beers, Polish wine from Mierzęcin Palace and tea courtesy of Harney & Sons. Enjoy these in minimalistic vaulted interiors or in a soothingly calm courtyard garden stacked with gargoyles and other historic elements. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 40, lapidariumcafe.com

Relaks Now in their ninth year of business, any Hall of Fame (suburban or otherwise) just wouldn’t feel complete without the inclusion of this evergreen institution. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz about Relaks has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. (E9) ul.

No Comment A secret world for those In The Know, find No Comment in a seedy-looking tower under Poniatowski Bridge. Clad in decadent, blue velvety surfaces, this tiny bi-level club feels redolent of an afterhours Parisian members club: everyone seems to know each other, and after a bottle of bubbles you will as well. (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego

Relax Na Wilczej An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts.

(D5) ul. Wilcza 17, fb.com/RelaxNaWilczej

12, ritualwarsaw.com

Stor A giant presence on the coffee map of Warsaw, Stor is the ultimate feelgood café: a place of slanting shadows and streaming sunlight, the irresistible ambience is matched only by peerless coffee prepared by expert baristas. ul. Tamka 33,

Sen Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wallto-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-toceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. The good life doesn’t get any better. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 6

fb.com/storcafe

clubs Luztro Don’t sit down, you won’t know what you might catch. Dark and generally filthy, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for

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pulled do the talking – past events include sets by Pete Tong, Laurent Garnier and Hercules & Love Affair. If those names mean nothing then it’s not your place. (E4) ul. Smolna 38, smolna38.com

N58 The latest entry on Warsaw’s club circuit have issued a manifesto promising deep vocal house, r’n’b, mash-ups and theme nights centered around Afro Beats / trap / twerk and hip hop. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka

Puławska 48

work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – it’s the craziest night in Poland! (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl

Smolna Helping to fan the ‘sense of secret’, the no-cellphone policy (you cover the camera with a sticker) ensures a zero amount of berks recording the shenanigans that await. Allow the names they’ve

Spatif Just a smashing night all round: from jazzy singers to funk and soul via a dose of Britpop, the ever likeable Spatif is what Warsaw needs – a place that’s not up its own arse! A labyrinth of pre-war chambers add atmosphere, as does the kind of basement smoking room that encourages obscure chat with indiscriminate strangers. Spatif’s main success lies in replicating the spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control.

(E5) al. Ujazdowskie 45, klubspatif.pl

The View Because who doesn’t love partying under palms on the rooftop deck of a 32-floor skyscraper? The glam and the gorgeous certainly do, and The View continues to feel as spectacular now as it did when it opened. A place of bubbles and beauties, it’s the definition of five-star, NYC-style clubbing. (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl

cocktails 6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts!

Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Back Room Plush fabrics, muted lighting, intuitive service, a well-scrubbed crowd, a flickering fireplace and shelves displaying drinks as if they were trophies: the ambiance is nailed down to such an extent that those who use this speakeasy for pre-club drinks often find themselves skipping the club bit altogether. And why bother with anywhere else when you have masterpiece cocktails that are immaculate, imaginative and mixed with practiced expertise. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/ BackRoomWarsaw

drink! Listings equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul.

Mokotowska 39

THE RIVERFRONT

Come summer and it’s all about the Wisła. The moment the mercury climbs, a string of bars open on the left bank to create an amorphous blur of drunken din. In previous years, the whole west bank has become an undulating wall of beats and shrieks, with all life gathering to party till dawn. New noise and social regulations stand to change that dampen the hedonism this year, but nonetheless, this still promises to be the place to be.

Of your copious choices, seek out Barka Wynurzenie, a craft beer barge with street food courtesy of Kukpit, BarKa, with its sail white canopies and vampy crowd, and the slick Przystań Nowa Fala. On land, Zachodni Brzeg and Sen cater to a high-end, smart-casual crowd with upmarket wines and flouncy cocktails galore.

Not to be outdone, the right side of the riverbank has hit back with the opening of Lunapark – if there’s one place to visit this summer, then this is most definitely it.

Ceviche Bar The modern design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene. Cocktail-wise, order Warsaw’s best Pisco Sour or explore a ‘Nikkei’ card that blends Peruvian and Japanese ingredients to present truly unique tastes. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue:

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Cosmo Bar Though they’ve made a big noise about embracing a variety of initiatives aimed at maximizing sustainability, Tomek Roehr’s Cosmo Bar project, is more than a one-trick pony. Beyond the novelty factor is a scrupulous attention to detail that manifests itself in impeccable cocktails based around Polish produce – rowanberry, sea buckthorn and suchlike.

Occupying a plush, little corner of the Cosmopolitan Tower, this is luxury with a conscience. ul. Twarda 4, cosmobar.pl El Koktel As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks – such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. (D4) ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9, elkoktel.pl

coordinated with crossed machetes, shrill neon and decorative tiles. The final effect brings to mind a deadly cool recreation of a drug baron’s jailhouse cell. (D5) ul.

Piękna 54

Long Bar Decked out with smooth marble, natural oak, striking art and soft tan leather, it’s a venue that writes a new chapter in the 160-year story of the venerable Europejski Hotel. Luxurious while never being excessive or ostentatious, there’s a calming sense of class that feels elegant yet relaxed: expensive, yes, prohibitive, no.

Intuitive service, sophisticated drinks and an interior that feels timeless yet historic in equal measure – for the full Raffles experience, order from their choice of signature Slings. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski), raffles. com/warsaw

Podwale Bar & Books Occupying the kind of charismatic gatehouse you’d read about in T Dickens, position yourself in front of R C T M theP upstairs fireplace for a celebratory C W cigar and ≈ a glass of something tall and W C lovely: the cocktails are in a class of ≈ C own Cand specifically customized their ≈ T season. Spooling, silent Bond for the ≈ E P regular films, burlesque shows and ≈ L S random decorative monkey figures add an ‘element of weird’. (D2) P unexpected B B HE MOST

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Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Aimed at a younger crowd largely in their 20s, it’s a good-humored, lively cocktail bar that’s famed around the country for the creativity of its bartenders. Next door, visit their sister bar, Kiti. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14 La Sirena Though primarily known as the best Mexican restaurant in the country, the cocktails are of such a standard that it’s become impossible to ignore La Sirena’s credentials as an exceptional bar as well.

Fixed using a range of premium tequilas, the innovative tastes feel all the better for the intriguing surrounds: walls of corrugated iron and peeling plaster are

OCATION

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HOOTS

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Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw

ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Tel.: +48 225.599.199

Reginabar Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: V O L a P i n Y that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic www.barandbooks.pl cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde. (E6) ul. n

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The Roots Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is this haunt, its walls are graced by a vast

Drink! Listings collection of cocktail memorabilia: antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention an original signed copy of the world’s first cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11

1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

Warmut Set in the Commie era No Man’s Land between Zbawiciela and Konstytucji, it’s become one of the hottest nights in town. This vermouth-inspired cocktail bar features classic and house creations, and a spectacular design involving street art, greenery and mirrored walls. But the piece de resistance? Those are the scale models of local landmarks that hang from the ceiling. Instagram them now before everyone else does. And don’t forget to head up the stairs to their cool little sister, Gram (see Bars). (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49 Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc

craft beer

rising stock has been reflected by their recruitment of Marcin Chmielarz, one of the best-known ‘beer managers’ in Poland. But even before him, this basic-looking joint was already making ripples for its consistency: a dodgy pint is totally unheard of. ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/ craftbeermuranow

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska A breath of fresh air when compared to the original – literally. Points are earned by whoever thought to add an Indian menu, while other pluses are awarded for a fridge housing exciting brews trending around the globe: from super cool Bermondsey breweries to Scandinavian legends, it’s a place you feel actually broadens your horizons. (E7)

Cuda Na Kiju Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshingly contemporary. (E4) ul. Nowy

ul. Marszałkowska 10/16

Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

Craft Beer Muranów Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s

Czeska Baszta Contained within a grotty bridge support,

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drink! Listings divey Czeska is permanently immersed in a foggy, yellow glow. Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s smashed! The frothy pints of lager are sourced from the owner’s favorite small town breweries, and the fridge kept stocked courtesy of his own cross-border forays. (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl

Drugie Dno The natural start (or finish) point of any Nowogrodzka pub crawl, head to The

Double D for a space that conjures to mind a disused power station: sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the neo-industrial look is ramped up with the liberal use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Sixteen taps to drink through, many of them offering extreme drinking solutions from Europe’s most radical breweries. Looks great, tastes great, a factor that ensure a male-to-female ratio that feels roughly equal. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 4

Drugie Dno Ochota Choice is thinner than the original (just eight taps), but there’s something here that really seems to work. Set over two floors, there’s a warmth and atmosphere that radiates throughout. An interesting design inspired by the original is matched with decent pizzas and a location down a leafy side street that’s gradually getting noticed for its neighborhood scene. (A6) ul. Tarczyńska 5/9

Goraczka Zlota Get down with the locals at Gorączka Złota, a steamy pub with a rowdy atmosphere. Touting the dimensions of a cabin boy’s quarters, this pungent, pokey den is one of the oldest bars in town.

Despite carrying many epic beers from Poland’s rebel brewers, there’s nothing faddish about GZ and it’s this sense of normalcy that lends it its enduring appeal.

(D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl

Jabeerwocky Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

Kufle i Kapsle Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer

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selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 25 Kufle i Kapsle Powiśle Doing it in a way that feels shabby, gritty but yet totally cool, this is a bar that riffs on themes of industrial and retro to maximum effect. Ground floor: a small bar area with a secret strip of seating snaking back behind; upstairs, the kind of retro furnishings last seen when Brezhnev was wearing shorts. On tap, find a fluctuating choice of 12 crazy beers sourced from the kind of breweries that make Poland seem progressive. When you’re done, prove your allegiance to KiK by visiting their third venue in Żoliborz.

(E3) ul. Solec 46A

Małe Piwo Oleandrów’s reawakening began on this very spot! Opened six years back, MP preempted the craft beer trend to become one of Warsaw’s first places for something better than a pint of Piss-kie.

Looking wholly unfinished and fashionably distressed, it’s got that New York dive vibe down to a tee – you imagine The Strokes rolling in right after band practice. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4 Maryensztadt Craft Beer It’s a mixed crowd of locals and tourists that gather in Maryensztadt, a large bar whose 12 taps showcase the highs (and occasional lows) produced by the brewery that gives this pub its name. Set across a series of cavernous chambers inside an attractive Old Town property, its not just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 11 Mikkeller Bar Warsaw A complete geek-gasm of ultra-niche, rare foreign finds, the onus on Scandinavian beers guarantees steep prices that have been known to reach (and even exceed) the zł. 50 mark. Ouch. In return, you’re getting blinding beers that break brewing boundaries – past examples include yuzu Berliner Weisse, triple barrel-aged imperial beetroot stout and watermelon & pomegranate IPA. Not for cheapskates, if nothing else the presence

Drink! Listings of a Mikkeller pub makes Warsaw feel a well-rounded, 21st century city. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 7/9, fb.com/MikkellerBarWarsaw

Piw Paw We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells nor the scrum at the bar. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an endof-term street party. (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34

Same Krafty Vis-à-vis When it comes to pubs, Same Krafty tops any Old Town hit list, but try getting served at peak drinking time. No problem, head five meters opposite to Bar No. 2.

Pass under a dragon’s head before stepping into a supremely friendly room with ten taps, a strong bottle line-up and an atmospheric side chamber. You will find tourists, but locals are often the majority, a telling indicator that says much for their approval rating. (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 11/13

(enter from ul. Parkingowa), piwpaw.pl

Same Krafty Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss.

Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Sustenance comes by way of big wheels of pizza that are surprisingly good.

(D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10

for gentlemen Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re

going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

live music

Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl

Klub Pogłos Scuzzy and a bit seamy, this alt. performance venue gives Warsaw an

A F R E N C H R E V E L AT I O N REDOLENT OF A PARISIEN COURTYARD BAKERY, YOU’LL SMELL THE AROMA OF OUR FRESHLY BAKED BREAD FROM DAWN. OPEN THROUGH THE DAY, WE’RE DELIGHTED TO SERVE OUR FAMOUS BREAKFASTS, TRADITIONAL PASTRIES NOT TO MENTION A SELECTION OF WINES FOR YOUR DINNER. WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU.

Być Może

ul. Bagatela 14

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drink! Listings interesting, if not utterly random direction with an events schedule that involves spoken word performances, vegan BBQs, old skool rave nights and hardcore gigs from bands with names like Cancer Bats and Moscow Death Brigade. They’ve had bingo nights, as well – hosted by the irrepressible Charlotte Drag Queer. In a city that’s always felt a little lacking in the ‘live’ department, Pogłos punches past sensibility to present evenings that are raw, uncompromising and always high on action. ul. Burakowska 12, fb.com/klubpoglos Niebo Noted for the diversity of its events program, Niebo does it all: from comedy nights to vintage markets via performances from cult acts such as Neneh Cherry and Black Sun Empire. The gritty look complements the artsy, off-radar airs perfectly. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 21, fb.com/ niebo

vodka

Konesera 1

wine bars

Ale Wino!

Summers here are magical, with drinkers congregating on a courtyard deck shielded from the sun by a slanted white sail; but winters aren’t too shabby either – lose yourself within a warren of warmly-lit rooms that feel snug, intimate and even a little rustic. The choice of 250 plus wines is supported by some of the best cooking in the city. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise.

Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul.

Bubbles Behold, the city’s most prodigious choice of champagne! Though price points can climb high, more affordable options are prevalent. Excellent cocktails, wonderful slow food choices and a charmingly cluttered interior add to the appeal. In summer, the canopied terrace is ideal for pre-theater drinks or date night with the partner. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.

Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

com.pl

Meta Chains of old bog paper, Karol Gott album covers and other Communist keepsakes litter this shot bar. But for a real blast to the past, visit their Parkingowa venue for a full-on, Polski-style retro disco. It’s hilarious. ul. Mazowiecka 11 / Foksal 21 /

Dekant Wine Bar Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl

Parkingowa 5

Pijalnia Havoc reigns in Pijalnia, and watching all the tears and tiffs on a Friday night is something of a spectator sport. Pickles and vodka are the essential order, while reading matter is supplied via commieera sports reports that are plastered to the wall. Many locations, fb.com/pijalnia. warszawa

WuWu Open round-the-clock, this 24-hour

bar is the place in which to enjoy a prodigious choice of vodka inside a chic, dimly-lit environment that resounds to the singalong hits of communist Poland.

Under illuminated tubes of light, find an upmarket, sharply turned-out crowd enjoying a place that elevates the all night concept by an extra level or two. (G1) Pl.

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Dyletanci The archetypal all-rounder, Dyletanci has it all: an approachable bistro style; adventurous cooking; and a wine list with no discernible Achilles Heel. Burgundy is a particular strength, as too are Polish wines (including those from the proprietor’s own vineyard, the upcoming Dom

Bliskowice). (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44,dyletanci.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej Go on, count them: hanging tantalizingly over the bar are 1,116 glasses, a testament to Kieliszki’s promise to serve all the wines they have (and there’s a motherlode to pick from) by the glass.

Enjoy them on a cobbled street that’s been magnificently restored to its prewar prime. ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Mielżyński Wine Bar Tangled in vines and creeping ivy, this brick warehouse comes into its element each summer when drinkers pile outside to drink amid rustling trees and pristine lawns. Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. A flagbearer when it comes to consistency and quality, this post-industrial space remains a default favorite of the Warsaw public.

(A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12), mielzynski.pl

Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl

Rusiko Wine Bar The perfect foil for the Rusiko restaurant next door, this high-ceilinged, sapphirecolored haunt showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior decked out with elaborate rugs horded by the owner. Having first enjoyed the food opposite, finish the night in this genial, cozy bar. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, fb.com/winebarrusiko

Winosfera Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy.

Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk. (B3) ul.

Chłodna 31, winosfera.pl

do!

SHUTTERSTOCK

THE GREAT ESCAPE

Though not nearly as famous as the botanical garden attached to Łazienki, Powsin’s own effort is none too shabby with its gentle air of secluded isolation. A place of meandering paths, tinkling streams, surprising trails and rocky hills, this beautifully landscaped haven fits much within its 40 hectare footprint. Secret nooks and romantic hideaways abound, with highlights numbering a papal oak honoring Pope John Paul II, a rich collection of oriental plant life, apple varieties first cultivated in the 16th century, and what is allegedly the most extensive assembly of roses in the country. More than anything, though, it is the sense of being nowhere that really strikes the visitor – more than the edge of Warsaw, the overriding feeling is of being on the edge of civilization.

Powsin Botanical Gardens ul. Prawdziwka 2, parkpowsin.pl

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vintage vinyl markets. And that’s the tip of the iceberg.

For further info, see: fb.com/ OtwartaZabkowska

FESTIVAL Quiet Zone Music Festival

Through July @ Łazienki Park This festival returns for a seventh year running with a series of weekend concerts covering a varied range of genres: jazz, classical and ‘traditional’.

For more info, check: strefaciszyfestival.pl

FESTIVAL Jazz in the Old Town

EDITOR’S PICK French Ball Jul 12 @ Endorfina Foksal, ul. Foksal 2 Tickets from zł. 159 @ bilety24.pl

Regarded as one of the key society events of the summer, the annual French Ball will feature an open bar, boules on the lawn, a French buffet, live music and a firework display.

Vive la France!

Every Sat, 19:00 @ Pl. Zamkowy Running each Saturday throughout the summer, the 25th edition of Jazz in the Old Town will bring together a number of international artists to perform for free in the Rynek and Pl. Zamkowy. Attracting audiences of up to 4,000 people, artists booked for July include Enrico Rava, China Moses Group, the Simsa Funft Quintet and the Ashley Henry Quartet.

For further info, see: jazznastarowce.pl

ARTS Street Art Festival

Ongoing till 7 July @ various locations Some of Europe’s top ‘street theater’ groups will be doing their thing on the streets of Warsaw, with performances planned for a diverse bunch of locations that range from New Town Square and Pl. Defilad to Metro Słodowiec.

For details, see: sztukaulicy.pl

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FESTIVAL Otwarta Ząbkowska Through July @ ul. Ząbkowska Colorful, energetic and audaciously eccentric, this ongoing weekend street festival sees Ząbkowska, Praga’s spiritual gateway, closed to traffic and transformed courtesy of outbreaks of street yoga, cooking workshops, live gigs, literary readings and

FESTIVAL Musical Gardens Festival

Ongoing till 29 July @ Royal Castle, Pl. Zamkowy Film screenings, concerts and operatic performances will be held pretty much every day inside the courtyard of the Royal Castle.

For details, see: ogrodymuzyczne.pl

CONCERT Chopin in the Park

Every Sunday, 12:00 & 16:00 @ Chopin Statue,

Łazienki Park Listen to some of Poland’s top talents – young and old – recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre in the rose-fringed gardens of Łazienki Park. The Sunday concerts run each summer and attract crowds of hundreds.

FILM Filmowa Stolica

Throughout Jul @ various locations A series of open air film screenings in scenic locations across the capital: among them Royal Wilanów, the Copernicus Science Center, Pole Mokotowskie and… Metro Słodowiec.

For more info, check: facebook. com/filmowastolica

FESTIVAL Warsaw Summer Jazz Days

Jul 4-7 @ Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 July is definitely the Jazz Month of Warsaw, with the highlight being the Summer Jazz Days festival, dating all the way back to the 90s. Performers this year include Snarky Puppy, Benny Golson, Garcia Nubya and the Stanley Clarke Band.

For details, see: warsawsummerjazzdays.pl

SPORT Warsaw Uprising Run

Jul 27 @ city center Limited to 11,000 runners, this annual run will have two routes this year: one covering a distance of five kilometers, the other a distance of ten kilometers.

To register, see: aktywnawarszawa.waw.pl

DO! Museums

THE BIG FOUR FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum MUSEUM OF WARSAW Thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

POLIN Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl WARSAW RISING MUSEUM Regarded as one of the country’s most important cultural institutions, the Rising Museum re-tells the story of the 1944 insurgency that came to define the city in minute detail. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. Don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

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M U S E U M O F P R AGA

MUSEUMS Car Museum Home to over 300 vehicles, displays include a 1930s Polish-produced Buick, WWII trucks and tanks, a Ford Thunderbird and Buick Skylark. From behind the Iron Curtain, car boffins will go bananas over the Russianmade Volgas, John Paul II’s Pope Mobile, and domestic classics such as the Syrena 104. The random layout, oily smells, cobwebbed corners and randomly assembled junk add to the sense of treading somewhere odd. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl

Dollhouse Museum Over 120 dolls houses through the ages have been amassed in this remarkably enchanting collection, the highlight arguably being a house built by a Polish RAF pilot that took six years to restore. Pl. Defilad 1, muzeumdomkow.pl

Dulag 121 Though much is now known about the Warsaw Uprising, the fate of the civilians driven from their homes remains rather more murky. Dulag 121,

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a former prison and transit camp in Pruszków, redresses the balance by documenting this grim exodus in detail. On the NoM night tours of the grounds will be conducted by hisorians. ul. 3 Maja 8A (Pruszków), dulag121.pl

Earth Museum Staring at bits of rock and fossils isn’t everyone’s idea of fun, but a visit here isn’t necessarily a snore. The building itself is magnificent, and considered “one of the best achievements of contemporary Polish architecture as far as decorative stone is concerned.” The real curiosity, however, is the patch of blood left by an unknown soldier during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. The stain has survived to this day. Al. Na Skarpie 20/26, mz.pan.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl

M U S E U M O F WA R S AW

The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul.

Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul.

Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem Reopened after a sig-

nificant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Miniature Park Magnificently detailed 1:25 scale models of Warsaw’s vanished, pre-war architectural treasures make this a stand-out little secret. Here, landmarks such as Saski Palace, the ‘summer theater’ and Żelazna Brama have been lovingly brought back from the dead in astonishing fashion. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 66, miniaturymazowieckie.com

Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its young owner, the museum is split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, others to fashion and style – the quirky collection is high on personal items such as groovy cosmetics, sports equipment and cast-off kitchen utensils.

The highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment. ul. Piękna 28/34, adventurewarsaw.com

DO! Museums Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions.

Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

engines, some beautifully detailed model villages and all kinds of train related ephemera: clocks, timetables, uniforms, etc. Outside is where the real anoraks head though, namely to clamber over fifty trains and carriages in various stages of life. Top billing goes to a 1942 German armored artillery train, and the walnut-clad personal wagon once used by Poland’s first post-war leader, Bolesław Bierut. ul. Towarowa 3, stacjamuzeum.pl

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation.

The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna 24/26

EXPERIENCES Copernicus Science Centre Zillions of interactive exhibits allow visitors to experience an earthquake, walk on the moon, look at the world through the eyes of a snake and discover if your partner’s a good liar – and that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik. org.pl

Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamekkrolewski.pl

Train Museum Inside, find 200 scale models of locomotives and steam

top secret chemical research unit, it’s from here Poland’s medical operation would have been conducted in the event of the red button being pressed. Frozen in time, it’s super creepy. ul. Kozielska 4, obiektalfa.pl

Pinball Station An unruly riot of beeps and flashes and jolly jingles, Pinball Station presents fifty plus machines from the pre-digital age. Can you touch them? Yes, yes and yes! For a flat rate of zł. 30, visitors can spend as much time as they have testing their skills on classics such as Dirty Harry, Buck Rogers and Revenge From Mars. ul. Kolejowa 8A, pinballstation.pl

GALLERIES & EXHIBITION S PAC E S Caricature Museum The Guardian called it “one of the best museums you’ve probably never heard of”, a backhanded compliment that still sits proudly on the museum’s home page. Having recently fought off an attempt to merge it into the Museum of Warsaw, the museum still stands on its own feet fulfilling its mission to bring mirth and a bit of mayhem to Warsaw’s cultural scene. ul.

Kozia 11, muzeumkarykatury.pl

Invisible Exhibition Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind.

This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world.

The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl

Obiekt Alfa If you think we live in scary times then a visit to this Cold War nuclear bunker is a timely reminder that it could all be worse. Built to house a

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such

as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl Gallery of Steel Figures Inspired by ‘dreams and memories’, this exhbition sees scrap metal recycled to form characters from film and science fiction, showbiz and music. Think of it as Mad Max meets Madame Tussauds.

Produced on a scale of 1:1, the craftsmanship and attention to detail is staggering. It’s fun, futuristic and freaky! Pl. Defilad 1, galleryofsteelfigures.com

National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Opened at the end of 2017, the Gallery of Polish Design offers up a bamboozling array of objects to give a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage, this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital and beyond. The emphasis is firmly on the Cold War era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon – beautiful in every respect, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl warsawinsider.pl

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Summer School

DO! Listings

Join us!

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School invites all children for a special summer program from July 8th to August 9th English speaking environment Montessori curriculum Field trips Special vistors Art Cooking Gardening Animals Nature and much, much more!

preschools American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through ageappropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów The British Primary School of Wilanów We are a values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

Accepting applications for children aged 2-5 (Casa program) and 6-12 (Elementary program) Location: Casa dei Bambini, Badowska 19 (behind Sielecka 52) To join summer school program please contact: +48 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl www.wmf.edu.pl

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The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies,

Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin.

The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob.

692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843

DO! Listings 9370, tep.edu.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul.

Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds.

It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, argonaut.edu.pl

Montessori Stepping Stones An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located

in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

The pursuit

of excellence We promise to support your child to love learning and achieve more than they ever thought possible.

www.thebritishschool.pl

Please email admissions@thebritishschool.pl or call (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 to arrange a tour warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Listings schools Akademeia High School Akademeia High School is an international high school in Warsaw, offering the chance to study for A Levels and iGCSEs. The school focuses on developing both students’ academic abilities and their artistic, athletic and leadership potential. ul. Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

American School of Warsaw ASW is a premier college-preparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. ul.

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Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

The British Primary School of Wilanów We are a values-driven school offering a worldclass education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow. org to organise a visit.

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the

highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help

DO! Listings students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classrooms provided. Located just steps

from Lazienki Park, the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420; ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826; ul. Pytlasińskiego 13 (high school), tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed

specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience.

The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep. edu.pl

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

on's ngt LUB i d Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Listings The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist.

Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary.olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

and secondary education conducted to a German curriculum. Św. Urszuli Ledóchowskiej 3, wbs.pl

adult learning Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com. cupofpolish.com Edu & More Polish Language School incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable prices. Intensive & regular Polish courses for beginners. Business & everyday Polish. ul. Nowogrodzka 44 / 7, polishonlinenow.com

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Willy Brandt Schule Warschau One of the city’s best renowned schools offers a kindergarten as well as primary

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Frog Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. ul.

design by Polish artists and accompanied it with Polish slogans. Much of the materials used are organic, hardwearing and wash well.

Kopytko Mamuta Specializing in trendy kicks from the likes of Mercredi Apres Midi, it’s the ultimate spoiler for your budding style maven and her little Prince Charming. ul. BoyaŻeleńskiego 2, kopytkomamuta.pl

Lullaby Jam packed with funky design and quirky gifts for your little ones. However, the exquisite clothing and designer labels do come with a hefty price tag. Multiple locations, lullaby.pl

Smyk Smyk is Poland’s answer to Mothercare; from bottle sterilizing kits to pencil cases, early learning toys to Disney classics and a wide range of seasonal clothing, this store will take you from childbirth to high school! Multiple stores, smyk.pl

Mazowiecka 12/24, frog.org.pl

Klub Dialogu Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. ul.

Hello

Ordynacka 13/5, klubdialogu.pl

It's Time to Learn Polish

Together School Learn Polish w i t h t h e in b eboth s t t eKraków a c h e r s and With locations in the biggest school Warsaw, Together have seven years of i n Wa r s a w. experience teaching Polish and English for everyday life, business and general communication. Mariensztat 8

children shops Baby D’Oro Making use of pastel colors and top quality fabrics, this Polish brand covers all bases from furnishings and fittings to toys and accessories. ul. Długa 8/14 Endo endo.pl Endo is the original home of quality children’s wear that embraced great

Polish for Foreigners kontakt@cupofpolish.com cupofpolish.com tel. +48 508 700 508

ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 692 692 632

DO! Listings health & beauty gyms Exuma Gym Warsaw’s latest luxury gym features equipment by Life Fitness and Hammer Strength, a wellness zone, private parking and stunning views of the National Stadium across the river. ul. Wioślarska 10 Gravitan Gravitan features state-of-the-art equipment, group classes and numerous specialists ranging from trainers and physios to beauticians and dieticians. Pl.

the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32, ouch.pl PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

spas & salons

spa.clochee.com/spa

Creamy Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia PinchinatWitucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum components, sulphates or silicones.

Creamy SPA offers original Haitian facial massage based on Creamy’s vegan cosmetics. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw), creamy.pl

ouch!

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at

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moliera2.com

sport

Szwedzki 3 & ul. Malborska 39, gravitan.pl

Clochee Natural, organic cosmetic brand that’s been dubbed a ‘pro-health project for your body and soul’. Using only certified ingredients, Clochee’s beauty products bring you closer to nature. Newlylaunched, their flagship store also houses a top-notch spa facilities. ul. Nowolipki 13,

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2,

Stacja Grawitacja Set over 3,200 sq/m of space, this indoor trampoline extravaganza sends visitors bouncing down ‘ninja obstacle courses’, sky slamming basketball hoops and jumping around engaged in dodgeball shenanigans. Al. Bohaterów Września 12, stacjagrawitacja.pl

fashion Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul. Mokotowska 61 Just Paul Exuding confident femininity, this energetic brand is characterized by its light and unobtrusive elegance and sense of effortless nonchalance. Founded in 2012 by designers Justyna and Paula, Just Paul seeks to address the needs of the modern woman with its line in chic but casual clothing and more dazzly evening wear. ul. Mokotowska 61, justpaul.pl Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Rixo London, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul. Mokotowska 26

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Ptasia 6 A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Kasia Miciak and Polanka. ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com

Risk. Made In Warsaw Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished. ul. Szpitalna 9, riskmadeinwarsaw.com

home & design DecoDialogue Working with both large manufacturers and smaller European design studios, DecoDialogue present a carefully sourced collection of furniture, textiles glassware and ceramics inside a beautifully outfitted space brimming with both statement pieces and more discreet little luxuries

DO! Listings by the likes of Louis Poulsen, Lumio, Łyko, Klippan and Ton. ul. Kopernika 8/18, decodialogue.pl

Future Antiques These stylish, mid-century pieces have been refreshed using artisanal techniques to return items to their fullest aesthetic potential. ul. Poznańska 3/14 Plantarium Focusing on low maintenance air plants, owner Kamila Burchardt has accrued a number of big, leafy ferns, towering succulents, hard-to-find plants that are uncommon to Poland and accompanying accessories to lift up your home. Impressive in scope and outlook, your apartment won’t ever feel the same. ul. Mokotowska 71

malls & department stores Arkadia Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow. com.pl

Galeria Północna Białołęka’s first major shopping center includes Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21 and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons include a rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map.

Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Warsaw Insider reklama PVM half_page_H_144x102.ai 1 19.06.2019 14:21:41 Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl Mysia 3 The line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl Vitkac Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton and Stella McCartney, Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

POLISH VODKA MUSEUM

C

M

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CM

Taste the knowledge!

MY

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CMY

Centrum Praskie Koneser Plac Konesera 1 Warszawa

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www.pvm.pl

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DO! Listings 5-Star Hotels

8888, warsaw.intercontinental. com

Bellotto

4-Star Hotels

Novotel Warszawa (Airport)

Radisson Blu Sobieski

ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw

pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, sobieski.com.pl

ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com

Mecure Warszawa Centrum

Bristol Hotel

Marriott

ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, mercure.com

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, warsawmarriott.com

Mercure Grand Warszawa

Express Relocations

ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, mercure.com

ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, expressrelocations.com

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport)

AGS Warsaw

ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@ h15ab.com, h15ab.com

Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com

Moxy Warszawa Praga ul. Ząbkowska 29, moxy-hotels. marriott.com

Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9, tel.

22 470 03 00, warszawa.hotel. com.pl

Indigo ul. Smolna 40, tel. 22 418 89 00, indigowarsaw.com

InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328

ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com

PURO ul. Widok 9, purohotel.pl

ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, warszawacourtyard.pl

Regent Warsaw Hotel

Novotel Warszawa Centrum

ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, expressrelocations.com

ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel.

22 596 0000, novotel.com, accorhotels.com

Interdean International Relocation

Polonia Palace Hotel

ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, interdean.com

Express Relocations ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regentwarsaw.com, regent-warsaw.com

Sheraton Hotel Warszawa

relocation companies

ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl

Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, poloniapalace.com

Raffles Europejski Warsaw ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 255 9590, raffles.com/ warsaw

3-Star Hotels

Westin

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport

Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. ul. Al.

Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, hiexpress.com

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100 Warsaw Insider | JULY 2019

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DO! Guide

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

CHOPIN CONCERT I N Ł A Z I E N K I PA R K

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of the ‘phoenix city’ that ‘survived its own death’.

The Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto, while the Museum of Warsaw offers a peerless peek into the complexities of Warsaw’s story: the view of the Old Town Square from the top is worth the admission alone. Close by, check out the city that once was at Park Miniatur, a beautiful exhibition displaying intricate scale models of the city’s pre-war architectural glories. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, take a walk around the immaculate Łazienki Park or, further out, visit Wilanów Palace: frequently nicknamed ‘the Polish Versailles’, the landscaped gardens are glorious in summer. Finally, tap into the very essence of the Polish soul by visiting the new Vodka Museum on the right side of town.

WWII

Memories of WWII still cast a long shadow over the town. Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country. Lesser known, the Old Town’s ‘Heritage

CZAR PRL MUSEUM

Centre’ documents the destruction (and subsequent reconstruction) of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history. To get up close and personal to military hardware, visit the Polish Army Museum.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz monument marking the spot where trains departed for the gas chambers of Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin museum covers all aspects of this nation’s Jewish history. More old school in style, the Jewish Historical Institute often hosts thought-provoking exhibitions linked to the wartime suffering of the Jewish population.

COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is essential: the basements (protected from rodents by a team of feline guardians) are intriguing and the top-floor viewing terrace unimpeachable. Explore the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then head across town to check the new location of the Czar PRL Museum

(czarprl.pl). A warm and eccentric look at daily life under Communism, this fantastic museum could yet become one of Warsaw’s quirkiest attractions. Equally weird, explore a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa.pl).

Lastly, take a look at what’s on at Dom Spotkań z Historią, a small exhibition space that specializes in interesting photo exhibits that delve into Warsaw’s past – though subject matter varies, the PRL era receives the lion’s share of attention.

MODERN WARSAW

Wonder amid rioting children and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre and after, visit the university library to explore the stunning, cosmic rooftop garden. The Museum of Modern Art is a short walk away whilst across the water, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and thrills both stadium geeks and football fans alike.

In the Old Town area, the Museum of Illusions promises a hallucinogenic dose of fun for all ages, and don’t miss the weekend light and sound shows at the Multimedia Fountains between the Wisła and Old Town.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages – reserve time for their brilliantly retro Gallery of Polish Design. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that excite non-conformists.

And keep your eyes peeled outside: some of the city’s best art is found on its walls – the Praga district is especially celebrated for its large format wall murals. warsawinsider.pl

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GR APHIC DESIGN

Rest In Priest

The rock world mourns the death of one of the great cover artists of our time…

104 Warsaw Insider | JULY 2019

M

usicians the world over paused to pay their respects to Rosław Szaybo, a graphic designer and illustrator who acted as the creative force behind many of the most recognizable album covers of the last few decades. Born in Poznań in 1933, Szaybo attended the capital’s Academy of Fine Arts and soon found himself immersed in the bohemian world of 60s Warsaw. Mentored by Henryk Tomaszewski and Wojciech Fangor – two artists whose works still resonate to this day – Szaybo was also a

popular figure on the city’s social circuit, partying with the likes of Krzysztof Komeda and Roman Polański.

Often experimenting with photographic techniques, early designs included the logo for the Polish Jazz series and the cover for Astigmatic, an album commonly regarded as a European masterpiece.

More success was to follow.

Moving to England in 1966, his rudimentary language skills were outshone by his latent talent and by 1972 he was heading the artistic division of CBS Records. It was in this role he designed 2,000 album covers, including sleeves for Elton John, Janis Joplin, Bob Marley and Simon & Garfunkel.

Perhaps most famously of all, he coined the design for the logo of Judas Priest as well as the cover for their seminal album Stained Class: “Szaybo’s cover image for the record was fabulous in its futuristic appeal,” wrote guitarist KK Downing. “He perfectly captured, with that single image of the strange glass-and-copper head, where I thought we were at the time, but he also left scope, intentionally or otherwise, for something to build on.” Returning to Poland in 1993, Szaybo continued to be active in artistic circles with his works frequently exhibited at home and abroad.

His death at the age of 85 draws a line under an era.