Warsaw Insider November 2016 #243

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

NOVEMBER 2016

EST. 1996

243 11/2016

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

#

zł.10

(VAT 8% included)

• Penthouse Explorations • Presidential Visits • Pl. Unii Lubelskiej Uncovered • Korean Kitchen • Chef Andrzej Polan

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ANYA HINDMARCH AQUAZZURA BALMAIN BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KOTUR MAISON MICHEL ONE TEASPOON SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

NOVEMBER 2016 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

you, but November in Poland is all about death. I say this with no hint of exaggeration: from the off, the month begins with millions of Poles calling at graveyards for the solemn celebration of All Saints’ Day. From the vapory mist, cemeteries glow red from the commemorative candles that visitors leave behind. The sense of melancholia continues through the month; by the time it ends, trees are brittle, sad skeletons and the cold, chilly sunsets the same shade as blood. Yet there’s a pensive beauty present, as if the weather was reflective of the city’s own weighty past. Gloomy as this might have been at times, Warsaw moves on. Where once November was seen as the weariest of months, try now not to be caught up by the energy of the future. The buzz is out there and I hope that that’s something we capture in the pages that follow. Enjoy this issue and see you next month…

INFRONT

Opener 9 News 10 Just Landed 12 What’s Up With That 14

FEATURES

Expat Chat 16 Interview: Andrzej Polan 18 US Presidents In Poland 20 Presidential Suites 22 Neighborhood Prowl: Pl. Unii 26

2

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

REVIEWS

Hala Koszyki 31 Platter by Karol Okrasa 32 U Rysia 34 Artezan Pub 35 Take Away Jars 35 Dos Tacos 36

LISTINGS

Neighborhood 39 Restaurants 42 Cafes & Wine Bars 75 Nightlife 79 Shopping 84 Family 93

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2016

Health & Beauty 99 In the City 105

PARTNER NEWS

The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers… 37

INBACK

Map 110 Looking Back 112

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Senior Key Account Manager A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2016 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover This month our cover artist captures the autumnal flavor of our anchor feature: Pl. Unii Lubelskiej.

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

I wouldn’t want to alarm

Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

BUSCEMI MEN CANADA GOOSE CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN HOGAN KENZO MONCLER MR&MRS ITALY ONE TEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TORY BURCH VALENTINO MEN BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

this month...

Concert

Concert

2 Nov @ Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Crystal Fighters do the impossible by mixing electronic sounds with traditional basque folk. The unlikely marriage has scored them admirers far and wide, with their stage performances known to have an ‘intense, almost punk vibe.’

Expect material from their latest album: Everything is my Family.

11 Nov @ Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Formerly of the Sneaker Pimps, Chris Corner’s solo project combines multiple musical genres with strange visual art and unconventional costume. For these reasons some have called IAMX a pioneer of ‘dark cabaret’.

Crystal Fighters

Tickets from zł. 189 @ ebilet.pl

Concert

Twenty One Pilots 3 Nov @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6 After a couple of self-released albums, Twenty One Pilots made their breakthrough in 2015 with the release of Blurryface. Playing a blend of alternative hip hop and indie pop rock, Rolling Stone claimed their appearance on Saturday Night Live to be ‘the most high profile performance yet.’

Tickets from zł. 125 @ ticketpro.pl

Concert

White Lies

Editor’s Pick Mats Gustafsson & Nu Ensemble A stalwart on the free jazz scene, the organizers themselves confess this looks set to be one of the most important nights in the history of Pardon To Tu! 9-10 Nov, Pardon, To Tu, pl. Grzybowski 12/16

3 Nov @ Progresja Music Zone, Fort Wola 22 This Ealing-based post-punk act have been favorably compared to the likes of Joy Division, Interpol and Editors, despite the band themselves stating that they’ve never been inspired by any of the former. See for yourself as they promote material from their new album, Friends.

Tickets from zł. 110 @ eventim.pl

Film

Sputnik Nad Wisłą 3-13 Nov @ Kinoteka & Iluzjon Promoting Russian culture in Poland, the 10th Sputnik Film Festival aims to ‘overcome differences and debunk stereotypes dividing Poles and Russians’. Good luck on that one then.

For info, see: sputnikfestiwal.pl

Concert

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2016

Tickets from zł. 89 @ ebilet.pl

Run

Independence Run 11 Nov, 11:11 @ Al. Jana Pawła II Starting at 11:11, the 28th Independence Day Run follows a 10-kilometer route around north and central Warsaw.

To register see: aktywnawarszawa. waw.pl

Concert

Taylor Davis 14 Nov @ Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Violinist and composer Taylor Davis is best known for her covers of video game soundtracks: past albums include the likes of Melodies of Hyrule: Songs from “The Legend of Zelda.” Her performance in Warsaw represents the second date of her European tour.

Tickets from zł. 79 @ eventim.pl

Concert

Brit Floyd 16 Nov @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6 Formed in 2011, Brit Floyd grandly announce themselves as ‘the best Pink Floyd tribute act in the world!’ The founder, Damian Darlington, describes their live shows as being, “a coherent, emotional journey through Pink Floyd’s catalogue.”

Tickets from zł. 199 @ eventim.pl

Motoring

Warsaw Moto Show

10 Nov @ Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Based in Berlin, this Polish singer-songwriter muddles the boundaries between synth-pop, anti-folk and baroque pop to produce a unique sound.

18-20 Nov @ Al. Katowicka 62 Covering a space in excess of 500,000 sq/m, the Warsaw Moto Show is the biggest such event in the region and will feature a number of attractions, among them collections of ‘old timers’ and sports cars as well as drift shows and off-road races.

Tickets from zł. 45 @ ebilet.pl

For details, see: warsawmotoshow.com

Julia Marcell

6

IAMX

MEDIA PATRONAGE

FIVE FLAVOURS FILM FESTIVAL

November 16-23 Kinoteka (PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1) & Kino Muranów (ul. Andersa 5) piecsmakow.pl

The only overview of cinema from South and South-East Asia in Poland, the 10th edition of the Five Flavours includes a category devoted to New Asian Cinema. Other festival highlights include a looks at the films of Sion Sono, one of the most original contemporary Japanese directors around. Furthermore, the ‘Warriors’ category sets the spotlight on martial arts movies, while another chapter will be devoted to the cinematic output of North Korea. As always, expect workshops, seminars and Q&A sessions with directors to pad out the festival’s schedule.

ROADS / ANTALIS

November 18 Sen Nocy Letniej (ul. Oleandrów 5)

The Antalis brand connect two separate worlds: that of fine paper and exciting perfume. This event presents their work whilst also demonstrating how paper and perfume have become cornerstones of the modern world. The evening will also show how – through their scent and ability to create memories – the two are also more closely linked that you’d have ever thought. Admission is free with the event scheduled to start at 6 p.m.

JASINSKI & FRIENDS November 29

Amaristo Galeria Przy Teatrze (Pl. Teatralny 3)

For the fifth year running the Amaristo Gallery opens its doors to represent upcoming artists. “It’s the perfect opportunity to familiarize yourself with modern Polish art while also meeting the artists in person,” says the organizers. This annual project aims to support and showcase Polish art as well also build bridges between the worlds of art and business. The exhibition will run through until January 2017.

LIFE IN THE MIDST OF BEAUTY. THE WORLD OF A CHINESE SCHOLAR Ongoing until January 8, 2017 The National Museum in Warsaw (Al. Jerozolimskie 3)

On loan from the National Museum of China in Beijing, this selection of superb artefacts will be presented in Poland for the first time. Highlights include a terracotta statue, exquisite calligraphy, and porcelain dating from the Ming and Qing dynasties. Poland’s first-ever thematic exhibition devoted to the life and creative pursuits of the Chinese literati is a rare chance to see an assortment of some of the most precious Chinese artefacts in existence; works of art typically out of reach for Polish audiences.

www.warsawinsider.pl

7

in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town CZARNY PROTEST IN NUMBERS

450,000

The number of signatures…

Gathered by pro-life campaigners to ban abortion

100,000 Estimated number of Polish women…

Who seek abortions abroad per annum

1993

The year the current law…

Was passed – it remains one of the strictest in the world

970

The number of…

Abortions carried out in Poland in 2014

352

The number of MPs… That rejected the bill

143

Towns & cities…

ILLUSTRATION BY MARIA MILEŃKO

Power to the People

Warsaw was thrust into the international spotlight in October after an estimated 30,000 people took to the streets to protest against changes to the law that would have seen an outright ban on abortion – even in cases of rape, incest or severe fetal abnormality.

Dubbed the Czarny Protest, it’s understood as many as seven million women missed work as part of a nationwide strike aimed at highlighting their displeasure at the motion.

The original proposal would have made abortion punishable by up to five years in prison with sentences also handed to those assisting in the abortion process.

Despite heavy rain lashing the nation, the inclement weather did nothing to deter tens of thousands of protestors gathering on the streets of Poland’s major cities. Others unable to make the various marches taking place across the country registered their solidarity by wearing black to work. The cause also gathered support from abroad, with vociferous demonstrations held internationally, most notably outside the HQ of the European Commission in Brussels. Seemingly stunned by the mutinous reaction provoked by the bill, members of the ruling party, PiS, voted to reject the motion amid “screams and chaos” in Parliament. (AW)

Estimated to have taken part in the protest

58

The number of MPs

That voted in favor of the bill

50

The total number of countries…

In which abortion is only permitted to save a woman’s life

6

The total number of countries…

In which abortion is banned www.warsawinsider.pl

9

inFront

news

Fuel For Thought A three-tiered petrol station due to be built in Warsaw next year has been shortlisted as a finalist in two categories of the World Architecture Festival to be held in Berlin in November. Designed by Maciej Jakub Zawadzki of the KAMJZ studio, the Shell station will not only incorporate futuristic technologies and environmentally friendly solutions, but also feature a rooftop park. Although construction costs are estimated to be double those of a regular petrol station, the project has already been hailed for introducing several energy efficient innovations such as a carwash that will use rainwater collected from the top-floor gardens.

Poland Mourns

Out Of The Blue

A technology firm based outside of Warsaw has seen its latest project go viral after their work was picked up on by digital platforms such as Reddit, Bored Panda and the Daily Mail Online. Designed by TPA Instytut Badań Technicznych, their 100-meter long solar powered bike lane, unveiled close to the northern town of Lidzbark Warmiński, has won a host of admirers. Made from suncharged luminophores, just 30-60 minutes of daylight is enough to keep the blue pathway glowing for up to eight hours to ten hours. Although the technology is still in its early testing stages, designers are hopeful that their idea will be a hit.

10

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2016

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP; PRESS MATERIAL (2), SHUTTERSTOCK

Award-winning film director Andrzej Wajda has died at the age of 90. In a career spanning 60 years, the prolific filmmaker churned out over 40 films, four of which were nominated for Best Foreign Film at the Academy Awards. In 2000 Wajda was recognized with an Oscar for his outstanding contribution to world cinema.

inFront

just landed

A Flying Start

Advice from the inside: each month we swoop on a native know-it-all or expat expert to give you the lowdown on the Warsaw you need to know when you’ve just landed…

Sightseeing

It’s almost an obligation to take visitors to the Rising Museum and the top of the Palace of Culture. Being frank though, sightseeing isn’t something I do much of – I’ve always said you learn most about a culture by visiting the local bars!

For that Dom Wódki is a smart-looking spot filled with all kinds of new and ancient vodkas. The bar staff know their stuff to such a degree that at times it feels like you’re getting a history lesson for no extra cost. Beat that for culture!

Eat

Left to Right: Bar & Books; View from PKiN

The tasting menu at Senses has real energy and invention. You can lay down big, big money here, but it’s definitely the one to keep in mind if you need to pull a rabbit out of a hat and really impress someone.

I’m also a big fan of Stixx: it’s east to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it work.

With the design there’s a healthy balance between corporate and cosmopolitan, and with the Spire

towering above it’s the kind of restaurant I’d take any first-timer who still thinks Poland is backward.

Drink

Tom Tanner

Fund manager and longterm expat

“Warsaw sometimes takes time to love, but you know, i’ve never known an expat who did not regret leaving. This city is an addiction: you might well leave Warsaw, but Warsaw will never leave you! ”

I sometimes think that Warsaw’s cocktail bars were designed by teenagers and with teenagers in mind. Bar & Books breaks from the norm with a mature, classic atmosphere and phenomenal cocktails – and you can smoke! For wine, I reckon nowhere has given Warsaw a bigger buzz this year than Dekant: it’s a great place to schmooze in. And as a Brit, I was made up when BrewDog opened in the city center. It’s everything a BrewDog should be with raw, atmospheric interiors and kick-ass beer from the original punk brewers!

Shop

Chopin Airport is never going to vie for the title of the world’s best, but I’m happy with the opening of Premium Foodgate in the departures terminal – it’s a brilliant spot to bag up on quality Polish produce, spirits and beer to deal out to friends and family back home. But for something truly personal I’d point people to Mo61, a perfume ‘lab’ which allows you to create your own scent: classy and thoughtful.

In November

Keep your head down!

The Independence Day parades on November 11th always attract a few numbskulls and while last year’s passed relatively peacefully, that was something of an exception. On a brighter note, I’m going to put my neck on the line and say that the newly-opened Hala Koszyki is going to become the social hub of the year!

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2016

Family Lunches with Kids’ Entertainment

Party the Night Away with DJ's & Live Music

Unforgettable Christmas Parties and Corporate Events

A Night to Remember New Year’s Eve Party 2016/2017

Contact us now

Book your tickets now

EverySat SatSun 13.00 13.00-17.00hrs Every & Sun - 17.00 hrs

STIXX Bar & Grill Plac Europejski 4A 00-844 Warsaw

Every Every Thu,Thu-Fri-Sat Fri & Sat night

Mon - Thu Fri Sat Sun Tel. (22) 340 40 40/41 www.stixx.pl facebook.com/StixxBarGrill

07.30 - 24.00 hrs 07.30 - 02.00 hrs 09.00 - 02.00 hrs 09.00 - 23.00 hrs

inFront

what’s up with that?

The Sleepers

On A Pedestal

A six-meter tall yellow, Styrofoam monument has caused a stir after being unveiled in October in the courtyard of the Academy of Fine Arts. Drawing parallels to the ‘Four Sleepers’ monument celebrating Polish-Soviet ‘brotherhood in arms’, the parody has been revealed to be the work of Kaisu Almonkari. However, rather than adorning the sculpture with figures of soldiers like the original, the artist has chosen to crown her version with positive role models such as a family unit, as well as Pope John Paul II, ski jumper Adam Małysz, scientist Marie Skłodowska Curie and poet Wisława Szymborska. Speaking to TVN Warszawa, Almonkari said that she hoped her work would draw attention to both the state and fate of Warsaw’s monuments. “I don’t think the Four Sleepers monument should ever have been removed,” said the artist, “while I realize many people thought it was a controversial installation, we can’t rewrite history – we shouldn’t remove monuments just because they make us uncomfortable.”

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2016

PHOTOGRAPH LEFT KEVIN DEMARIA, RIGHT WIKICOMMONS

Erected in 1945, the Monument to Brotherhood in Arms depicted the Polish-Soviet military struggle against the Nazis and stood in Praga at the intersection of Dworzec Wileński.

Removed in 2011 due to work on the second metro line, it’s been held in storage ever since. It became known locally as the ‘Four Sleepers’ not just because of the docile posture of the soldierly sculptures, but also because of the Red Army’s inaction during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. While the removal of the work was greeted with widespread approval, a growing number of people are demanding the statue is rehoused in a museum or a similar cultural institution.

The recently opened restaurant and bar Mokotowska 69 is a perfect place for those who enjoy refined food and excellent wine.

The restaurant offers classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, delicious steaks and a wide range of wine from all over the world.

Mokotowska 69 was designed for those who enjoy Polish cuisine and those who would like to try classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, such as Mazurian crayfish in rowan brandy cream sauce, roasted catfish with pearl barley and beets or roasted duck with pears and blackcurrant. The restaurant also specialises in steaks made from American Black Angus (certified prime grade by the USDA), Scottish Aberdeen Angus and the highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu cattle, “Kobe-style”: class 5, marbling 9+. ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48 22) 628 73 84 / (+48 22) 627 20 33, www.mokotowska69.pl

The restaurant and wine store Merliniego 5, located vis-à- vis the main entrance to the Warszawianka Aqua Park, is the ideal place for those who love good food and fantastic wines. Merliniego 5 specialises in seafood dishes and steaks made of American Black Angus (prime beef USDA certified), especially selected from the New York-based OTTOMANELLI & SONS butchery. The restaurant also serves steaks made of the Aberdeen Angus and top quality Japanese beef from Tajima cattle, “Kobe style” (grade 5A/BMS 9+). Further, menu offers seasonal and traditional Polish cuisine dishes. At the end of 2011, the readers of Gazeta Stołeczna granted us the prestigious title of Knajpa Roku 2011 (Eating Establishment of the Year 2011). Since 2013 we have also been listed in the Michelin Guide. ul. Merliniego 5, tel. (+48 22) 646 08 10 / (+48 22) 646 08 49, www.merliniego5.pl

EXPAT CHAT KOREAN

The Expat Epicurean

Kicking off a new series exploring the ethnic restaurants of Warsaw, the Insider invites expat Ian Yoo to guide us through the highlights of Korean cuisine…

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2016

Ian, we’re in your hands – what’s the lowdown on Korean food…

The grill is vital, so too are ‘shared’ dishes. In a restaurant we’ll judge a place firstly on the standard of kimchi, and secondly on how many ‘shared’ side dishes they’ll bring out at the start. Here, we’ve got four: fried seaweed, bean sprouts, tofu and kimchi.

You can immediately tell the freshness of the kimchi. In Poland people bring out the starters, then maybe a soup, and after the main course. In Korea we’re more likely to eat everything at the same time so you can really enjoy the different combinations.

Food is a very important part of our culture: if you’re going out drinking, there will always be food involved.

Hang on, let’s get back to the grill…

We’ve got that coming up: kongnamul bulgogi – pork with squid, soybean sprouts, vegetables and a spicy sauce.

The idea is to cook it around the table, using scissors to cut the food. I actually find it funny that Europeans don’t use scissors so much in the kitchen: they’re often the best thing to cut with.

What are we drinking here?

I’m always interested to see what people say about Makkoli wine: you’ll either love it or hate it. It’s a rice wine with a milky texture and sweetish taste. In the countryside back home it’s become popular to mix it up with 7-Up – it tastes great at the time but will give you a hangover to remember!

Poland is the first place I’ve worked where you end up making friends with the locals

Sounds brill, so why aren’t people drinking it so much?

I’m not an expert, but I’d blame the Westernization of Korea for that.

Traditions are dying out. For instance, there’s a number of Koreans who place more value on speaking English than being able to speak their own language properly.

Is there a food you miss?

Chicken feet, pig skin, eel, chicken gizzards… You can buy those in Poland but they’re never the same – they’re prepared completely differently. Ideally, back in Korea you’d pick them up from a small, smoky street stall as a side dish to go alongside alcohol on a night out.

Changing the subject. Ian’s not a particularly Korean-sounding name?

My Korean name is Yen, but all Koreans will have an English name that they’ve had since school. Originally I was called John but my teacher in Ireland changed this to Ian 12 years ago. In Korea Ewan McGregor is called Ian McGregor so I was fine with that.

Even my friends back in Korea call me Ian now!

This is great – tastes like fizzy Bailey’s! Anyhow, what’s your hangover cure then…

I’ve noticed there isn’t really the same culture of hangover food in Europe. If you were in Korea I’d recommend two things: either a spicy / salty bean sprout soup, or this special soup we make from dried Pollock.

Doesn’t tea feature prominently on Korean tables?

Not so much anymore, which is a shame. It looks almost like jam, so if I’m giving any to a foreigner I’m always careful to tell them not to spread it on their bread. It’s almost like a jelly with lots of honey and sugars.

How have you adapted to Poland?

I’ve had a few incidents, like kids shouting ‘ching, chang, chong’ and other stuff at me, but in general I think people are actually more open here. I lived in Dublin for six months and found it impossible to make Irish friends. Poland is the first place I’ve worked where you end up making friends with the locals. I get the idea that the Poles like working with foreigners, it’s fun for them. They don’t speak English as a mother tongue either, so we’re more on the same level.

What’s the Korean community like?

Korean life in Poland is mainly centered around Warsaw and Wrocław.

A lot of Koreans in Wrocław prefer to have their wife and kids in Warsaw because the schools are better, which

means that the restaurants there tend to be very good: because their wives are living in Warsaw, you find more Korean men are willing to go out in Wrocław!

What restaurants do you rate in Warsaw?

I like Polish food, but given the choice I’ll always have Korean – I prepare a Korean lunchbox each day for work. For Korean then Arirang on Nowogrodzka is good while Mei close to the Korean Cultural Institute is well-known for its grill and is really popular with the Koreans working close by. If you’re spending a bit more then this place, Sora, is great. I think their kimchi is the best.

Any other Asian foods you recommend?

There’s so many ‘fake’ Asian restaurants in Warsaw selling ‘Kuchnia Azjatycka’. You’ll order something and find it served with a white Polish salad. But there are good places: Pekin Duck for Chinese, I also like Duza Mi Ha for Vietnamese. The noodles in Uki Uki are also great. They’re a bit expensive for what they actually are, but they’re always very decent.

Have Poles taken to the tastes of Korea?

Those who’ve tried it love it! They’ll happily eat kimchi with a shot of vodka and a little kiełbasa.

No regrets about moving out here…

I know a few Koreans who are going mad out here: too many bars shut at midnight, there’s no 24-hr delivery services, etc. But one thing I’ve noticed is that Korea has a very strong group culture. What ‘the group’ does is more important than ‘the individual’. I think maybe I’m a little more individual so maybe that’s why I enjoy living here so much.

The Insider dined at Sora (ul. Wronia 45, restauracjasora.pl) www.warsawinsider.pl

17

INTERVIEW CHEF

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2016

EATING THE AUTUMN

Renowned for his celebration of the seasons, chef Andrzej Polan speaks about the culinary glory of the Polish autumn…

Every chef loves autumn, right?

Obviously, I can’t speak for other chefs, but for me autumn is completely spectacular. Artists have a spectrum of colors to work with come autumn, and I think in a similar way chefs do as well. You’ll often hear Polish chefs referring to it as ‘Golden Autumn’, but that’s not just because of the colors you’ll see, but because of the depth and richness of the harvest – chefs have an enormous range of ingredients to choose from at this time of year.

What problems does a chef face when designing an autumn menu…

The weather is the big enemy. One moment you have temperatures every bit as hot as Spain, and then the next week it’s cold and rainy. When you’ve got conditions like that it becomes hard to plan ahead when you don’t know which products are going to be good. That’s why menus need to be flexible: you need to be able to switch an ingredient out and replace it with something else. Other dishes are only around for two or three weeks. But the plus side is the sheer number of ingredients you’ll find in autumn. There’s always something to play with.

So you’re not really going to know what’s on your menu till the last moment?

You’ll often find me in the farmers’ markets of Warsaw shopping for fruit and vegetables: that’s not because I don’t trust other people to do the shopping, it’s just the best way to see what’s available, what’s good. I don’t look on the chefs I have working as some kind of ‘hired help’, more as students. They’re the future. That’s why once I’ve got the ingredients we’ll often brainstorm as a team about what to do with them. I like to push people to be creative. 98% of the time the dishes will work, others will need a couple of weeks before we’re truly happy.

Do you have any favorite things you look for in autumn?

Different regions do different things at different times of year. Take early spring for example: I love the sheep’s cheese you get up in Kashubia. Because the grass is so fresh you can really taste the difference in the cheese.

I travel a lot to source produce and it’s very much a journey of discovery. Mass production kills taste so I’m always looking for small farms and suchlike. You fall in love with different areas: central Poland for apples, Biesczady for mushrooms, bison meat in Białowieża…

What do you look forward to seeing in autumn?

‘Kapusta kiszona’ – or fermented cabbage – always works for autumn. Then you’ve got goose, which is one of the tastiest, healthiest meats you’ll ever get on a table.

Root vegetables and beans are also great. It’s amazing how something like quince or mountain ash can change an otherwise standard dish.

Polish cuisine has undergone a revolution in recent years. What’s happened?

You just have to look at the TV or in a bookshop to see that culinary fashions have changed. Even the diners themselves have changed. People are more aware than ever about what they eat, but they’re also looking for new tastes. When a diner goes to a restaurant he or she doesn’t want to order kotlet schabowy, they want something more surprising.

Some people are calling this new movement ‘modern Polish’…

I don’t like that description, but there’s definitely a new face to Polish cooking. A lot of chefs are drawing inspiration from old recipes, using these as their base, and then modernizing them. Not everyone wants the heavy food of old, they want something lighter, so chefs are getting creative and giving a new look and style to these traditional dishes. It’s important, though, not to play too much with a dish, otherwise it loses the intended taste. You can’t get too complex, there needs to be a balance. I see some chefs using all of these foams and gels and I feel confused: I have to really wonder what’s going on inside their heads sometimes!

Polish food hasn’t enjoyed the best reputation in the past, so what do visitors need to know…

There’s such a choice of local ingredients that it’s my favorite cuisine to work with. We’ve got produce here that’s really special and I want to demonstrate that, to show the wide palette of tastes that we have. You see those tourist restaurants aimed at big groups but they take the taste away from the produce. Thank God we’ve got some real gems when it comes to restaurants now doing a good job with Polish ingredients.

Mała Polana Smaków ul. Belwederka 13, polanasmakow.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

19

HISTORY U.S. PRESIDENTS IN POLAND

THE PRESIDENTIAL VISIT

With the American election set for November, we turn back the clock to remember previous Polish excursions by U.S. presidents…

BY STUART DOWELL

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2016

SEVEN U.S. PRESIDENTS have made a total of

thirteen visits to Poland. During all of those visits, the U.S. head of state spent time in Warsaw with the exception of George Bush’s in-and-out trip to Jurata in June 2007 when he met Lech Kaczyński.

EISENHOWER Dwight Eisenhower, who became president in 1953, came to Warsaw for a four-hour visit in 1945 when he was the commander in chief of Allied forces in Europe. He expressed his great shock at the utter destruction he saw around him as he toured the Old Town then jumped in his staff car and sped to his waiting plane.

NIXON Richard Nixon was the first serving U.S. president to visit Poland when he arrived direct from Iran to a chilly Okęcie in 1972. The visit came amid a thaw in U.S.-Soviet relations in the early 1970s. Perhaps the most surprising aspect of Tricky Dicky’s Warsaw layover was that it hadn’t been agreed by local apparatchiks with their overseers in Moscow. Party boss Edward Gierek kept his head over the visit but others rolled and Moscow shored up their presence in Warsaw by sending in a KBG heavyweight to keep an eye on their errant Poles.

Back in those days, visiting kings and presidents were accommodated in specially arranged apartments in the north wing of Wilanów Palace. Charles de Gaulle was an earlier visitor. Great efforts were made by staff at the palace to find a bed big enough for the improbably tall French leader. Eventually, a super-sized antique was found in Kraków, hastily knocked into shape and sent to Warsaw.

Nixon and his wife got their shuteye on the same bunk and it remains in the palace today.

FORD Gerald Ford’s visit in July 1975 also took place in

the warming waters of East-West détente. Just days before, Apollo and Soyuz spacecrafts had made a clunky embrace in orbit, and it was in a similar spirit of friendship that Ford came to Warsaw bearing gifts. On a previous trip to Washington, Ford had turned down Gierek’s request for a licence to produce U.S. color televisions on the grounds that they didn’t want to give up American hi-tech wizardry. By now he had changed his mind, and any readers who rented a flat in Warsaw in the 1990s with an old Soviet-made colour TV will know what a big issue this was for Poland.

CARTER Jimmy Carter’s visit two and a half years later was notable in one respect. It was the first time a Western leader had appeared uncensored on live Polish television.

The televised press conference took place at the recently opened Victoria Hotel, an oasis of style and elegance that showcased the socialist dolce vita. No earth-shattering statements were made and the talk focused on economic issues and future cooperation, but Carter left Warsaw as the last U.S. president to visit People’s Poland.

BUSH (SENIOR) George Bush senior visited Warsaw in July 1989 like an alpha dog sniffing around a new territory after chasing off the old pack, and when he came back in 1992 he quite literally brought a bone with him – bones in the form of the ashes of Ignacy Jan Paderewski, world-renowned classical pianist and prime minister of Poland in 1919, which Bush brought from Arlington and now rest in Warsaw’s St. John’s Cathedral.

Perhaps the most surprising aspect of Tricky Dicky’s Warsaw layover was that it hadn’t been agreed by local apparatchiks with their overseers in Moscow CLINTON When Bill Clinton first came to Poland in July 1994, even his easy American charm couldn’t brush aside Polish concerns about possible delays in joining NATO. On Slick Willie’s second visit, the mood was much different. The euphoria that gripped the eager crowds on Pl. Zamkowy couldn’t be quelled even by The Comeback Kid himself. It was only when the castle tower bell chimed that order was restored, upon which Bill looked up and saluted, uttering a votive thank-you to the helpful campanile.

BUSH (JUNIOR) George W. Bush’s three visits to Poland were all about smoothing Poland’s path into NATO and bunging cash to get rid of missile defence problems.

He also managed to stop the clocks and bells at Wawel in Kraków and misunderstand Golec u Orkiestra’s line about turning wheat stubble into San Francisco.

OBAMA Barak Obama has visited Warsaw three times, most recently for the NATO summit earlier this year. On his visit in 2014, Barry was famously filmed by a guest at the Marriot in the gym doing bicep curls. The filmmaker was saved from a hail of bullets as the secret service said that the president’s security was never in danger. As if to underline the point, Big B was snapped again in the same gym during the NATO summit, this time moving from a treadmill to a spinning cycle.

TRUMP? Several years ago, Donald Trump was invited to give a motivational talk to thousands of entrepreneurs at the National Stadium. His demand for a one-milliondollar fee might have been workable, but his Trump-sized additional requirements sunk the project. The lighting and sound for the event were to be rented from a Trump-nominated company, he wanted the costs of his private jet, a security detail covered by the organizers and a 40-milliondollar insurance policy was to be taken out with a U.S. insurer. Maybe soon though, the people of Warsaw will be able to see The Donald cruising in the Beast on his way to the Presidential Palace. Or will it be Hillary in the car?

Either way, a new chapter in the story of U.S. presidential visits to our city will be written. www.warsawinsider.pl

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HOTELS PRESIDENTAL SUITES

Suite dreams

As America heads to the polls, join us for a look at the suites and penthouses fit for a Commander-in-Chief… BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

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Photos this spread: the high life on Floor 40 of the InterContinental.

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necdotal? Maybe. A good story? Certainly. Repeated with such frequency as to now be presumed a fact, it’s said that the term ‘Presidential Suite’ was coined under the administration of Woodrow Wilson. A man of exacting standards, his requirements when traveling on official business were considered fanciful at the time and demanded that his hotel lodgings be equipped with an en-suite bathroom and a walk-in closet. Soon, regardless

of whether a President had ever actually stayed there, hotels had assigned the title Presidential Suite to the best room in the house.

It was around about Wilson’s tenure that Warsaw’s best known suite came to prominence. The Bristol Hotel was opened in 1901 and funded by a consortium that included the pianist Ignacy Jan Paderewski. Eighteen years later, when Paderewski became Prime Minister, the first session of www.warsawinsider.pl

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HOTELS PRESIDENTAL SUITES

“Most famous, however, has been the hotel’s association with the U.S. leadership: to all intents and purposes, the Marriott is the residence of the President”

This page: beautiful views guaranteed in the Marriott.

Parliament was held here. Of the hotel’s many chambers, Paderewski’s apartment was recognized as the most luxurious and is, to this day, the hotel’s star attraction: featuring crystal chandeliers and Paderewski’s original gilded writing desk, Michael Jackson was said to be so enamored by the place he offered to buy it outright.

Under communism the standard of Warsaw’s hotels declined radically, and while Robert Kennedy, Indira Gandhi and The Rolling Stones stayed in the Europejski (now under scaffolding as it prepares to relaunch next year as a luxury hotel managed by Raffles), global leaders such as Nixon found themselves shuttled to special accommodation arranged in Wilanów Palace. It was not until 1974 that the first ‘Western’ quality hotel was built, the sand colored Forum (nowadays, the mist grey Novotel). Because the Poles lacked the relevant technology to build a skyscraper of this nature, a team of Swedes were brought in to do the job. Two years after completion, more Swedes turned up:

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ABBA’s visit in 1976 was a sensation that took the city by storm and is still fondly recollected by those who excitedly mobbed the hotel’s entrance.

The opening of the Marriott in 1989 wrote a new chapter in Warsaw’s hotel history. Expats and moneyed locals thronged the hotel’s bars and restaurants, while visiting VIPs made full use of the split-level Presidential Suite on the 40th floor: Joan Collins, Chris de Burgh and the King of Sweden all slept here, and so too Michael Jackson who allegedly switched here from the Bristol to flee the zoom lenses of the paparazzi. Most famous, however, has been the hotel’s association with the U.S. leadership: to all intents and purposes, the Marriott is the residence of the President.

It’s certainly a hotel that makes a statement: past liveried doormen and through a revamped reception lobby, it’s as if everything has been designed to awe. Nothing more so than the Presidential Suite: set across two floors that

This page: crisp, cool and classy in H15.

span a total of 150 sq/m, it’s thick with plush touches and corporate glitz – a pianoforte, a spiraling staircase, a bar area and staggering views of the capital below. All yours for zł. 5,000 net.

Warsaw’s growing stature in the world led to the addition of more global chains in the 00’s, among them the Westin, Radisson, Hilton and InterContinental, and it’s inside the latter we find ourselves for a photo shoot. A place of neutral colors and tasteful furnishings, this 40th floor suite is big on wide open spaces and natural light. Swishing the blinds open, the Palace of Culture is just a tightrope walk away.

Escaping the international giants, the success of smaller, boutique operations has been a sign of Warsaw’s maturing market, and none impress more than H15. Once the interwar Soviet Embassy, this address has been repackaged as a deluxe hotel that frequently entertains models, musicians and assorted celebrity sirens: while professional discretion prevents the staff from revealing anything more,

local rumors suggest guests have included Joanna Krupa and Patricia Gucci.

The top-floor penthouse, it transpires, has been a recent addition. Just one week old when the Insider visits, we’re informed it’s hosted only one guest prior. Designed by the award-winning Mariola Tomczak, it’s as if every square inch has been thought about, rethought and then finally perfected. The attention to detail is delicious: bathrooms of Italian Calacatta marble, kitchen appliances by Miele, granite surfaces of Zimbabwean Nero Assoluto… More than a penthouse, it’s a labor of love. Artwork by Rita Zimmerman and lighting by Tom Dixon work cohesively alongside highly personal touches such as hand restored 50s armchairs and selected hardback books covering the works of Warhol and Saudek. Covering 140 sq/m (plus a 137 sq/m three-sided terrace), it’s a physical embodiment of new Warsaw. The only problem comes with checking out – you really don’t want to. www.warsawinsider.pl

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NEIGHBORHOOD PROWL PLAC UNII LUBELSKIEJ

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Uni Days

The Insider takes a personalized journey through the streets round Plac Unii...

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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epending on which November day you read this, it was 15 years exactly that I moved to Bagatela. Number 11 was my address, an elegant building then smudged with smears. I lived in an attic, up a narrow stairwell smelling of rats and rot. Creaking my way to the top, I’d hear snatches of old Polish ballads from behind closed doors. Who was playing them, I never found out. Regardless, the atmosphere was intoxicating.

Then, as now, Pl. Unii Lubelskiej around the corner was a bit of a mess with tramlines tangling overhead as if they were wire-framed coat-hangers. It hadn’t always been like this. Formerly known as Pl. Keksholmski, what we now call Pl. Unii Lubelskiej – so named in 1919 to celebrate the 350th anniversary of the Union of Lublin, a pact that united Lithuania with Poland – once marked one of the key entry points to the city. In organized fashion, travelers would pass in and out of Warsaw via a pair of toll houses painted in wedding cake colors. Completed in 1818, both still exist: one as a sushi stop and the other as an empty shell awaiting investment.

The junction began its modern transformation the following century with the construction of the tall tenements that hug its periphery. Largely due to its awkward dimensions, Kamienica Kacperskich is the most visible.

Eight floors tall, when it opened in 1913 it was the talk of the town. Ranked the second highest structure in Poland, notable aspects included three crystal-clad elevators, rubbish chutes and central heating. Although its glory has faded since, it’s triangular form still bears a passing resemblance to New York’s Flatiron Building. Further, unknown to many, it’s home to the smallest internal courtyard in the whole of the city: a thumb-sized space of 2x4x8 meters.

In the past, those living in Kacperskich would have opened their curtains to see one of Europe’s first monuments dedicated to aviation. Designed by Edward Wittig, a student of Rodin, it was demolished by the Nazis in 1944: today, an exact replica stands on ul. Żwirki i Wigury.

This is not the only loss experienced by Pl. Unii Lubelskiej. Back when I was living in the area, I’d make furtive midnight stops for a Big Mac and fries. McDonald’s sat in the corner of a disintegrating building called SuperSam which, unbeknownst to me at the time, was actually a legendary piece of architectural history. Launched in 1962, SuperSam touted a pioneering bow-shaped roof that was regarded so experimental that it was awarded a prize at the 1965 Sao Paolo Biennale. The natives, though, appreciated it for other reasons. Swarmed by thousands when it opened, this wasn’t just Poland’s biggest ever supermarket,

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but also the first self-service one of the post-war years. Such was the stampede the historian Jerzy Majewski writes that “scared shop assistants jumped to hide behind the shelves.”

The hordes had ample reason to converge en masse: selling exotica like lemons and bananas, SuperSam was an antidote to the empty stores that were familiar to most.

Of course, the outdated Sam could never survive in the post-communist reality, and in 2006 it was flattened for good.

From its rubble rose a new icon, the 90-meter Plac Unii tower.

Designed by the Stefan Kuryłowicz, it’s rumored that the late architect took inspiration from the original plans for this plot.

Prior to the war, the site had been earmarked as the future home of Polish radio and television. Bohdan Pniewski was put in charge, and his design envisaged what would have become Europe’s tallest skyscraper. Alas, in the same year as the first foundations were being dug the Germans invaded and put an end to the scheme.

The impact of the Nazi occupation was felt especially keenly in this neighborhood. Al. Szucha, one of the roads splintering from Pl. Unii, was designated the official police district and renamed Strasse der Polizei. High ranking officials and officers were housed in the numerous villas though the street achieved notoriety for far darker reasons. No. 25, which before the war had served as the Ministry of Religion and Public Education, was requisitioned by the Gestapo and became their regional HQ. With the basement converted into an interrogation center this was arguably the most feared address in the city. Transports filled with suspected members of the resistance arrived nightly from Pawiak Prison, and for thousands this was to be their final stop. Stark and shocking, the cellars now function as a small but sobering museum. Of the messages scratched onto the walls by detainees, one has gained particular distinction: “It is easy to speak about Poland, it is harder to work for her, even harder to die for her, and the hardest to suffer for her.”

Exiting back into the daylight, Szucha’s buildings feel ominous and oppressive. By comparison, Bagatela with its Parisian-style apartments looks classy and continental. At least it would were it not for the invasive form of the one-time British Ambassador’s residence at No. 5. This squat, black box shape was conceived by Eric Bedford, a man principally known for changing London’s skyline with the striking Post Office Tower (now the BT Tower). Erected in the 60s, workers recall how the Ambassador himself took a personal interest in the building’s development. “Each Saturday,” remembers one worker, “the Ambassador would arrive in a Rolls-Royce, inspect the site and then drive off leaving us with two bottles of Johnny Walker and several cartons of Chesterfield cigarettes.”

Having been told that Polish laborers traditionally held ‘topping out parties’, the kindly Ambassador went one step further and organized platters of sandwiches and ten crates of vodka for the workforce. Word spread like wildfire, and before long this corner of Bagatela had been transformed into something of a spontaneous street party. In the wake of the 9/11 attacks, security concerns prompted the British to close the ugly looking compound once and for all. Yet despite the structures unsightly gait, there’s still a few local old timers who look back at the British presence with misty-eyed fondness.

So yes, architecturally speaking the area around Pl. Unii is something of a mess: handsome townhouses with intricate reliefs stand shoulder-to-shoulder with plops of madness and inexplicable concrete. But like the stories connected to the area, the incongruous aesthetics are rich and varied and at times quite eccentric: as microcosms go it’s more special than most...

“The Ambassador would arrive in a Rolls-Royce, inspect the site and then drive off leaving us with two bottles of Johnny Walker and several cartons of Chesterfield cigarettes...” www.warsawinsider.pl

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What a dish!

Served up at Północ Południe

EAT & DRINK AROUND PL. UNII Być Może ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Some call it an imitation of Charlotte, but while the concept is similar they’ve improved upon it with superior breads and a far more pleasant crowd. During daytime it fulfills the function of a makeshift office for Mac-tapping locals.

Summer is the peak time for Esencja, when crowds spill out on their terrace to the side. But worries that this concretelooking restobar is a little too stark for winter are unfounded. Surprisingly warm and intimate, it becomes all the more lively when the theater next door dispatches its audience.

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia. waw.pl With Warsaw’s tap bars all falling over each other to stock the latest tap beers, your options are frequently similar from bar to bar – which is when a good fridge becomes important. Not only can you actually see into Chmielarnia’s, you’ll find it housing the most exciting brews trending around the globe: from the edgy Bermondsey breweries to the Scandinavian giants.

Broaden your horizons!

Falafel Plus ul. Marszałkowska 6 This bright and breezy Mediterranean themed joint pushes forward Warsaw’s growing mania for falafel while also bringing to the table several Greek inspired choices. Light and fresh, this is cuisine that sets you up for the rest of the day.

Delikatesy Esencja ul. Marszałkowska 8, delies.pl

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Północ Południe ul. Bagatela 10, pn-pd.pl There are many things to like about Północ: a long bar to belly-up to after a day in the office, chilled glasses for your Belgian beer, and a thoughtful design with shades of NYC cool. The menu lifts

the experience yet higher, with a broad range of dishes that the chef understands well. Even in an area now blossoming with options, this is a venue that twinkles brighter than all.

Prasowy ul. Marszałowska 10/16 Delicate diners shun milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon – with its history rooted in communism – has been embraced by a new generation. The food is bland and basic, but the interiors – sensitively updated from 1954 – are worth looking around.

Tarabuk ul. Marszałkowska 7, tarabuk.pl “I come here to escape Warsaw,” confides one Insider. And yeah, there’s a quality to Tarabuk that allows one to do just that.

Heaving with books and raggedy furniture, it’s a place in which to order an eco-tea, maybe a slice of cake, open Chapter 12 and then let the hours slip away.

REVIEWS

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSTIE COURTESY OF POŁNOC PULUDNIE

RESTAURANTS 42 CAFES & WINE BARS 75 NIGHTLIFE 79 SHOPPING 84 FAMILY 93 HEALTH & BEAUTY 99 IN THE CITY 105

ON THE MARKET

Freshly resurrected after years of disruption and destruction, the much-awaited Hala Koszyki opened for business at the tail end of October. Originally completed in 1908, this historic market hall has had a patched history that’s seen it wrecked and remodeled over the passage of time. Although only a couple of authentic facades remain, such has been the developer’s engagement to the project that you wouldn’t automatically tell. Integrating old with new, the rebooted version of Koszyki presents a rollcall of top tenants such as Gringo Salsownia, Port Royal Fish & Oyster Bar, Bar Centralny Koszyki, Weranda Bistro and the celebrated return of the Bazar Koszyki food market.

Hala Koszyki ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com

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Flavor of the Month Platter serves up the goods…

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

REVIEWS

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irless and anodyne: that’s the reputation Warsaw’s hotel restaurants are unfairly lumped with. True, the balance tips towards sterile, stifling boxes serving blandness to the masses, yet likewise, it’s remiss to overlook those that are doing something special.

Their number is few, but there’s a noisy minority that are cooking with style. The InterContinental have been doing just that ever since pressganging Karol Okrasa to serve as the figurehead chef at their flagship restaurant. It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of Okrasa with accuracy and passion.

The menu is big – not in terms of the actual items that are listed, but by its sheer size. It’s not just a paper plane you could make out of it, but a whole paper air force that could block out the sun. As an opening statement it’s a grand thing to look at and is completely in sync with an upmarket interior that resounds to slick city types wearing monogramed shirts and personalized cufflinks: looking around is like soaking in class.

Having congratulated yourself with the choice of the surroundings, order first the marinated tuna. It’s a scintillating dish with subtle distractions: a green pea puree finished with celery root and a tomato / chive salsa that’s gentle and fresh.

Next come two pierogi filled with beef cheeks and buckwheat, a little submerged in a dainty, beefy broth. In theory, it’s a dish that could easily be big and overwhelming but instead its defined by sophisticated tastes that never overpower.

The show rolls on with a pristine halibut served on a sour cabbage consommé. In discussing its merits, words like ‘complex’ and ‘elegant’ are mentioned in passing. Even the palate cleanser, a dab of lemon sorbet, has been finely tuned to a precious thing of virtue.

So where does Platter by Okrasa go wrong? Desperately, somewhat, we search for an answer but none is forthcoming.

If anything, Łukasz Pielak turns up the volume on the experience with a deer in plum sauce. There’s an imperial, velvet richness to this, one cleverly offset by a baked potato with a sour cream sauce. Presented separately in a jar swirling with smoke, the wax-like quality of the potato causes a swoon. It’s a dish of many details that have all been well-connected with balance in mind.

Warsaw’s fine dining haunts are in the dangerous habit of cocking up dessert. Many chefs give up at this point: “I’ve done my bit,” they seem to say, “now I’ll go for a pint and leave you with some pastry chef just out of college.” Clearly, this is a crime. Fortunately, it’s not a crime that Platter is guilty of. Further highs are reached on the presentation of dessert: cheesecake with raspberry powder and white chocolate; a baked apricot; and chicory / coffee crème brulee. Should you see for yourself? Take a guess… (AW) Platter by Karol Okrasa

ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), www.warsaw.intercontinental.com www.warsawinsider.pl

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Summer’s Back

Flip back the calendar at U Rysia…

here’s nothing more that says summer in Poland quite like weekends in Mazury. Not the tourist epicenters, but the eco-stay farmsteads and castle hotels. Reaching them alone is a joy in itself: down twisting forest roads and past glistening lakes. Pit stops and detours to little, lakeside fish cabins are all part of the trip. Right there, in these rickety sheds, you’ll find the true taste of summer.

Hard as it is to recreate that feeling in landlocked, foggy Warsaw, U Rysia somehow manage. The simplicity of the design helps: devoid of frills it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Perch chips please with each satisfying crunch; zander, its skin nicely crisp and baked with precision; whilst trout tartar is a victoriously take on a Mazurian classic. As cold rain drums down outside, in U Rysia the sensation is of revisiting the summer.

U Rysia ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl

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Jarred goodies at Bazar Kocha

Craft Masters

With umpteen billion breweries to now choose from, a visit to the tap bar can be a little overwhelming. It’s good to know that Browar Artezan aren’t just a failsafe, they’re regarded as pretty much the best in the business. So news that they’ve taken the plunge and opened their own bar has sent beer geeks into a frenzy. Occupying the ground floor of an office block, it lacks the worn-in, boozed-out look of its rivals, with the bright design feeling like a breath of fresh air. Unmistakably though, it’s the beer that’s the magnetic force with eight taps blasting out pacesetter tipples such as Pacific and Białe IPA.

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA, EXCEPT BAZAR KOCHA COURTESY

Artezan Pub ul. Moniuszki 1A

Jarring Experience

Maybe not yet, but soon, the great winter struggle will begin once again. With the abundant ingredients of the past months nothing more than a distant dot in the rear view mirror, the search is on for adequate replacements. Sure, these aren’t exactly times of chronic deprivation, but frequently you’ll be settling for over-priced, bruisedlooking imports that haven’t traveled well. Yet viable and often superior substitutes exist and arrive in the form of jarred preserves.

Time has taught the Poles well, and over the course of history they’ve become adept at jarring food and preserving its goodness. Neither are examples of this just limited to farmers’ markets such as Fortecca and Bio Bazar. A growing band of restaurants are making the jars they rely on available to their customers, the most notable being Bazar Kocha, Słoik, Weranda and Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź. www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS

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Some Like It Too Hot Dancing with fire at Dos Tacos…

ho doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. It’s an action that promises something illicit and hidden: a forbidden fruit savored only by those with a taste for the taboo.

In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means enquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. Today’s secret poison is a strawberry salsa that, on first taste, is as sweet and innocuous as jam.

Then, in seconds, it hits you, a flush of fire ripping through the body before tingling around the mouth in persistent waves: pain and joy both at once.

Dos Tacos isn’t the first place to design sauces with hardcore hotheads in mind, but it is unique in local terms for looking beyond just heat alone. “Salsas shouldn’t only be about their kick,” says the owner / manager Michał, “but also taste.”

Growing his own chilies at his parents’ greenhouse down in the south of Poland, Michał has sourced some of the deadliest chili peppers knows to man, with the results ending up on the kitchen table of his Mexican-born chef, Isabel Balderas. “She’s our star,” says Michał, “our secret weapon.”

You understand why. Aside from the novelty of their heart-

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jolting salsas are milder ones designed with more than the minority in mind: zingy pineapple salsa, peppery red tomato salsa and a habanero orange that sends subtle prickles down the spine. So exceptional are the tastes of these many forget the nachos, choosing instead to scoop the salsas up and eat them straight like that. That’s no problem, but while Dos Tacos are justifiably proud of these house sauces, their reputation has other strong foundations, that being the exceptional cooking of the Pueblo-raised Balderas. This is food filled with the bright, bold tastes of Mexico, refreshingly clean and with no shortage of zap. It’s food that helps you block out the outside world and the whistling winter winds. Most of all though, it’s food that you return to time and time again. Mexican has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that it is the old guard sometimes know best. (AW) Dos Tacos ul. Jasna 22, dostacos.pl

Partner News The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers…

Autumn Tastes

Autumn has a special taste and, above all, a wonderful aroma: mushrooms, apples, ginger, cinnamon, cardamom and cloves.

This year, our chef is looking to pamper your palate with wild boar stew in fig sauce, velvety cream of pumpkin soup with a hint of coriander and coconut milk, pumpkin pasta in a creamy sauce and his signature pumpkin cheesecake…

Add to that the fragrant aroma of spiced, mulled wine, warm cider with cinnamon and hot chocolate with roasted almonds…

Loft ul. Złota 11, restauracjaloft.plw

Sawa Live! For one night only Sawa Bistro (ul. Grzybowska 5) will showcase the mesmerizing vocal talents of Małgorzata Nakonieczna alongside Marcin Czyżewski (known for Must Be The Music and The Voice of Poland) and the popular beatboxer / MC Sebastian ‘Sajmon’ Samsonowicz. Make a date for 8 p.m., Nov 18th, at Sawa!

For reservations, call: tel. 22 793 5353.

Modern Thai

Our restaurant answers the question Why Thai by being the first in Poland serving modern interpretations of Thai cuisine: we guarantee an exotic culinary adventure like no other. Voted Warsaw’s best restaurant in 2013, we’re looking forward to surprising our guests with our new autumn menu. Our central location and elegant décor complete your reasons for visiting us this November!

Why Thai ul. Wiejska 13 (Next to the Sheraton Hotel on the Royal Route), whythai.pl

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In Store

Rafał Kołomański discusses his storage mission and philosophy…

How would you introduce Więcej Miejsca?

We take the ‘self’ out of self-storage. Ours is a complete door to door service that’s stress and hassle free. We’ll deliver however many storage bins you need for your belongings and even pack them for you if that’s what you want. After all, we’re experts at it.

What are you able to store?

Anything from books, clothes, cutlery and kitchen appliances to larger items such as furniture and sports equipment.

Smaller goods are stored in the extra-strong, waterproof bins we provide, while the bigger items are properly secured in protective material: basically, everything we take will be returned in exactly the same condition as it left you.

What innovations do you offer?

Every item we take is photographed and then cataloged along with a description. Every ‘bin’ and each bulky item has its unique bar code: people have a tendency to forget what they store, so this system allows customers to log into their account and check what we’re keeping for them in our warehouse. It’s like having a virtual closet.

How safe are my possessions?

Firstly, our bins are very solid: they’re not going to break easily. Secondly, they’re then secured with tamper-proof seals that have unique numbers: that gives you confidence that your box will not be opened during storage. Our warehouse is guarded 24/7 and is also equipped with CCTV. On top

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of that, warehouse access is limited only to our staff so only a few people even know where it is. I think it says a lot about our credibility that our biggest investor is Helene Zaleski who, until March 2016, was the chairwoman of the supervisory board of Alior Bank. In short, you can trust us.

Who are your clients?

People moving in or out of homes who find themselves caught short in terms of storage space. But we’re also used by people that are renovating their homes, as well as people with small living spaces: if you’ve got loads of winter or summer clothes and struggle to store them all, then we can help. We also deal with students, especially international ones who don’t want to fly back with loads of suitcases every time term finishes, not to mention a large number of ex-pats: in fact, so far we have had clients from approximately 25 countries.

But storage isn’t the only service you offer?

Not at all. We also deal with removals and can help individuals and companies. We handle both local and international moves, and only recently finished relocating people both to and from Paris and the U.K. Because we’re capable of both removals and storage we’re ultra-convenient: customers don’t need to head to a DIY store to buy tape and boxes, we’ll do everything for them. Likewise, we’ll supply bins and the relevant equipment for those that prefer to conduct their big move themselves.

Więcej Miejsca wiecejmiejsca.pl

Wilanów

neighborhood THINGS TO DO

Muffle up against the chill and head to Wilanów’s impeccable gardens for an evening with an illuminating twist...

LIGHT RELIEF

With months of vile weather lying straight ahead, brighten up the Autumn and visit Wilanów’s Royal Garden of Light. Illuminated by over 150,000 colored diodes, this dreamlike installation riffs on surreal themes that leave everyone enchanted...

Wilanów Palace Gardens ul. Stanislawa Kostki Potockiego 10/16, open daily 4 p.m. till 9 p.m. (closed Nov 1), admission from zł.

5-10 (children under 7 free)

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BROUGHT TO YOU BY KUCHNIA OTWARTA

neighborhood / wilanów

Royal Treatment

Royal Wilanów gets the restaurant it deserves...

To think, before it opened there were those who questioned the validity of Royal Wilanów – did the area really need it, they asked? The answer has been a resounding yes, and that’s comprehensively thanks to dining options that have pulled in more than just locals. Kuchnia Otwarta have been integral in that, creating a swell of excitement that’s rippled way beyond Wilanów. Why? Plotted out by Michał Molenda, the menu is a sincere work based around regional, seasonal produce: nothing contrived, nothing forced, it’s a card that roots out the best that Poland has to offer – Kashubian goat’s cheese, served

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warm in a salad of kale and honey mustard sauce; a pearbased cream soup with leek, potato, roast beef and sorrel leaves; and, in a cast iron pot and a hunk of bread to mop it all up with, a boar stew with porcini mushrooms, dried plums and bacon. When Warsaw is slate grey outside, this is food that goes further than nourishing the soul. This is food that makes you feel human again.

Kuchnia Otwarta ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), kuchniaotwarta.pl

neighborhood / wilanów eat & drink The Beer Store Al. Rzeczypospolitej 14 In an area where bar options are thin on the ground, The Beer Store is a veritable lifeline. Cult international beers and Polish craft ales served to a very grateful audience.

should not be forgotten either: there’s 400 beers to pore over, with the range including a number of progressive breweries.

and black Angus beef available, plus organic chicken and pork. While you’re there, pick up a bottle of wine for movie night.

Butchery & Wine Shop ul. Klimczaka 5/88 A collaboration of two legends: ‘celebrity butcher’ Grzegorz Kwapniewski and Daniel Pawełek of the downtown Butchery & Wine restaurant. Hereford, red

Delikatesy Gusto ul. Klimczaka 5/89 Craft beer, impressive wines and soft drinks from brands like Belvoir.

And to think, that’s just the drinks. Also on sale, western sugar highs to local eco-produce.

Gorący Pies Al. Rzeczypospolitej 10 Artisan burgers, creative hot dogs and local ingredients: this is street food with an upmarket Wilanów twist – you’ll hear no complaints from us.

Kuchnia Otwarta ul. Klimczaka 1, kuchniaotwarta.pl A restaurant with serious ambitions to be the best in the area: a beautiful layout that’s modern and open is complemented by a varied menu by Michał Molenda with something for all ages and tastes.

Naturel ul. Klimczaka 1, naturel7.pl Overseen by Marcin Jabłoński, one of the rising stars of Polish gastronomy, the menu is a celebratory observance of natural local produce.

Plato ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), restauracjaplato.pl Created by the same team behind the Michelin-starred Senses restaurant, Plato has less of the formality and theater but plenty of thrills and talking points. Mediterranean-inspired, the menu has been curated by Michał Gniadek, a graduate of the Senses kitchen.

BEST MEX FOOD & COCKTAILS Live Music•Events•Delivery Service•Open Late Wilanów, Klimczaka 1, phone 728 456 883, yeye.waw.pl

YeYe Mex Food & Music Bar ul. Klimczaka 1, yeye.testa. com.pl Mexican food hasn’t imported well to Poland, but the kitchen team here have changed that with a simple menu that makes it look easy. Some are calling it the best Mexican in the country and the margaritas are not too shabby either.

delis The Beer Store Wilanów Al. Rzeczypospolitej 14 While many locals rightfully claim The Beer Store to the best bar in the district, it’s original function as a shop

Al. Wilanowska 67e/ D1/3 tel. 602 720 077 www.agijensen.com

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restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED 2015 Best of Warsaw Award Winner BEST OF WARSAW 2015 KEY WINNERS Fine Dining Senses Casual Dining Bibenda Newcomer MOD Chef Sebastian Wełpa (Ale Wino) Modern Polish (Opasły Tom) Foreign Chef Martin Gimenez-Castro (Salto & Ceviche Bar)

VIET STREET FOOD BISTRO (ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/vietstreetfoodpl) The undisputed surprise of the summer. Yet what started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu reveals steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens. Definitely worth tracking down.

PLATO (ul. Klimczaka 1, Royal Wilanow, restauracjaplato.pl) Created by the same team behind the Michelin-starred Senses restaurant, Plato has less of the formality and theater but plenty of thrills and talking points. Mediterranean inspired, the menu has been curated by Michał Gniadek, a graduate of the Senses kitchen whose previous history also includes a stint at the Michelin endorsed Galvin at Windows.

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african american balkan & russian british burgers & street food chinese cooking schools cuban fine dining french georgian greek & turkish hungarian indian international italian japanese & sushi jewish korean latin & spanish mexican middle eastern pancakes polish russian scandinavian seafood specialty food shops steak houses thai uzbek vegan & wholefood vietnamese

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listings / restaurants african Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $

american Amigos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, restauracjaamigos.pl Mentored by George Bush’s former private chef, the cooks at Amigos have mastered a comprehensive menu that’s nothing if it isn’t a roll-call of true Texan tastes: steaks, ribs and other dishes befitting of the Dodge City saloon-style surrounds. Neither is the south of the border forgotten, with cameo appearances from Mexican mainstays such as burritos and fajitas. $$ Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, brooklynbw.eu Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks. This means fresh tacos not to mention the best-selling ‘Mito’s Beef Ribs’.

The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.

22 630 5119, champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – with TVs positioned all over the place you won’t miss a kick. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Dwa Woły ul. Rozbrat 8, tel. 22 409 00 86, dwawoly.pl Beef, bbq and burgers play a sizeable role at

Dwa Woły in more ways than one: the double burger is an almost obscene, secret pleasure.

Also notable are their pastrami sandwiches and Tex Mex deals. With the summer closing out, enjoy the last rays of sun of their seasonal terrace. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live concerts and zippy Tex Mex food. $$

balkan Ba Adriatico (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible.

But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril.

Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. $$ Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka. pl Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. $$ Yugo (B4) ul. Sienna 83 (enter from Żelazna), tel. 694 109 379 You feel alive just being here: big on Colgate white colors, vintage tourist agency posters and bright stickers, Yugo is just about the cheeriest eatery you’ll come across on a dour Warsaw day. Presenting the food of the former Yugoslavia, this Balkan bolt

hole specializes in meaty dishes served in traditional bread. $

british British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, bbpub.pl The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsomer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Ę Rybę (E4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl Warsaw’s has done fish and chips before, yet nowhere has managed to capture the unique taste of the British seaside as convincingly as this place.

Forget the grey and greasy offerings the city has previously volunteered, here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Doused with malt vinegar, and a couple of dollops of tartar sauce, here’s food that cuddles and comforts those Brits who miss home. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but massive steps have been taken to ensure that the food angle isn’t overlooked. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$ Pik’s Fish & Chips ul. Grójecka 17B You wait years for a fish and chip shop and then two come along at once. But most of the Brits are converging on Ę Rybę in the center, and there’s a reason for that: entered into a head-to-head and there’s one clear winner. It’s not Pik. Comparisons to E Rybę are both inevitable and unfavorable: smaller portions and tastes that are just not quite there. $

burgers & street food Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger. pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their American-style eating competitions / greed-fests. $

Created by Jarosław Voitiuk, our menu is influenced by seasonal produce and it is mostly based on fresh fish and seafood delivered daily from Spain. Find a classic cuisine with a modern twist and a beautiful game of colours and form matched with award-winning wines and unique cocktails

Beef’N’Roll (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 531 707 070, beefnroll.pl If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required.

Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. $ Bez Ości (D5) ul. Hoża 51, bezosci.com Those lamenting the loss of Warsaw’s first artisan sandwich stop – MeatLove – have been given hope by the opening of a new venture across the street. Specializing in fish-based sarnies and baguettes, the choice includes deboned catches fresh from a stint in the smokehouse served in bread baked in traditional brick ovens. The cod with horseradish choice is a particular bestseller. Find it occupying a tiny, converted space inside a former vodka distillery. $ Burger Bar ul. Puławska 974/80 & ul. Krucza 41/43 Warsaw’s first legitimate burger spot was the talk of the town when it first opened up in 2012, only to have its thunder stolen when 100 copycats opened in their trail. But this lot have kept plugging away, sticking to their guns with little song and dance. Intimate and unassuming, it’s for good reason they’ve retained a loyal core of fans – if the words masterpiece can be applied to a burger, then their green chili burger is just that. $ Diner 55 (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 Young? Broke? Try Diner 55. Set in a dark, industrial basement, this spot fills with skater types showing off their first tattoo. The menu is born of an alliance between Pan Burger, Rico’s Tacos and Mr. Pancake, and is good enough for a quick fix solution. $

ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 516 995 690, www.zmianaklimatu.pl

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Fabryka Frytek (D4) ul. Złota 3 & ul. Waryńskiego 9, fabrykafrytek.pl Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $

Okienko (D7) ul. Polna 22 Belgian-style frites served in paper cones right from out of a street-side hatch. Yes they’re good, but they’re bettered by the sauces that are written up in marker pen on the wall tiles. With money exchanged, do your eating on the upturned crates left on the side of the curb. $ Pogromcy Meatów (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. $ SAS Duck & Chicken (D5) ul. Piękna 54, fb.com/sasduckandchicken Although SAS Duck & Chicken feels reminiscent of the ‘hipster pop-up’ we first saw three or four years back, they’ve taken a tried and tested format and hit refresh. A small and simple space it might be, but this kitchen crew have won hearts and minds with an understandable menu that presents comfort food at its glorious best: BBQ hot wings, duck confit burgers, chicken skewers and turkey in a big, buttery brioche. These are simple pleasures refined for a picky palette. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. $ Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

chinese Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707,

listings / restaurants cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ Pełną Parą (B4) ul. Sienna 76, pelnapara.pl The Thai soup

with lemongrass and chicken is fragrant, deep and nourishing, but it’s the Chinese dim sum they’re famous for mind, with eight variations thereof. Find yourself knocked sideways by these beautiful pouches of meaty goodness: the duck, orange and Sichuan pepper is a particular favorite.

Impossible to get tired of, these are of a standard that bring to mind London’s Chinatown. $

Pełną Parą na Nowo (D6) ul. Nowowiejska 10, pelnapara.pl A good gauge of Pełną Parą’s swoon-worthy offerings is the Dim Sum Mix: find a duo of Chinese dumplings (pork/shitake & bamboo/shrimp) plus a spicy kimchi-style cucumber salad topped off with some fried wontons and spring rolls. Appetites, however, may suffer if you sit too close to the manager, a person who sees nothing wrong with barking orders at the staff in the manner of a bulldog. $$ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town.

Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! $

cooking schools Akademia Kulinarna Whirlpool ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), akademiakulinarnawhirlpool.pl Run by two Italians, find a gleaming kitchen inside a vast warehouse space inside Soho Factory. Mediterranean workshops are the primary foundation, though wine tasting and Polish cooking courses are also available.

A PLACE IN WHICH WINE PLAYS THE FIRST CHORD IN HARMONY WITH WHAT APPEARS ON THE PLATE…

Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress.

Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work.

Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, schelleracademy.pl Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

cuban WE WELCOME YOU

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El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994, el-caribe.pl Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking

listings / restaurants left to a Cuban exile, this bubbly spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

fine dining Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. You know all the chefs we bang on about in this mag? Bottom line, the good ones came through via this kitchen.

But this is more than a training ground for future stars, it’s a place that remains on the cutting edge in spite of its seemingly straight look. Positioned inside a majestic villa, the food is pure contemporary Poland, and well deserving of its Michelin nod. For that, thank chef Robert Skubisz. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques,

with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro (who, unfortunately, nowadays is a rare sighting in his restaurant). Regardless, in the hours you’re here the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel.

22 531 6070, leregina.com A gloriously seductive dining room, Poland’s champion sommelier, and a chef that many recognize as being Michelin potential: put those three together and you have one of the finest experiences to be enjoyed in a Warsaw dining room. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and in October that meant – for this diner at least – tuna with beetroot and yuzu, and a main of beef fillet: electrifyingly good. $$$

Our take on modern Polish cuisine is something more than freshness of seasonable local produce. We serve our passion and joy which you can savor with every bite.

L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl Chef Michal Brys might look like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, but his flair for experimentation is second to none: expect a menu that marries local produce with the latest tricks and techniques. The tasting menu (six courses for zł. 199) is a brilliant insight into the mind of a chef who likes to experiment and push boundaries. With all the hype you expect this place to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but.

Again, credit for that goes to Brys and his front-of-house staff. $$$ N31 (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl One of the original pioneers of modern Polish cooking returns with renewed vigor.

That’s Robert Sowa, and his N31 restaurant has already made a massive splash with an upmarket, showbizzy crowd enjoying complex cooking amid a luxurious interior of pristine linen and glinting tableware. $$$

33/35 Mokotowska Str., Warsaw, +48 22 102 20 70 www.bazarkocha.pl

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listings / restaurants Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$

Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl For those who think Argentine chef Martin Gimenez-Castro is just about steak, then they haven’t been to Salto. The tasting menu is the best way to view his full oeuvre, and on our visit included ceviche with Portuguese corvina; a dainty tranche of cavala mackerel; and Porcini ice cream served in the shape of a mushroom.

It’s a brilliant demonstration of the chef’s passion and personality, but most of all, it’s BEST WAWA just bloody brilliant. $$$ 2015 “Foreign Chef”

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Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl A spectacular experience from start to finish: begin by walking through a flame-lit tunnel, and then conclude the night with an edible cigar: a grand tobacco flavored pastry infused with whisky and cinnamon. In between our night includes beetroot bread with a teat pipette of apple essence; a beef rib that’s a big blast of smoke and crunch; and a shellfish goulash that’s rich and rough and rolling in flavor. Perfectly paced, expertly portioned and bristling with invention, their newly acquired Michelin star makes bookings recommended. $$$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Fine Dining” Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, tamka.43.pl Ground floor: upmarket cafe serving Chopin

fans. Upstairs: a fine dining restaurant in which the seasonal menu sets the natural flavors of Poland against the culinary know-how of tomorrow. It’s easy to drop serious money here, but you’ll still feel it’s worthwhile. $$$

french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings.

It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic but there is potential: if the other courses were a disappointment then the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a well-executed orange and caramel sauce. $$ Bistro la Cocotte (D6) ul. Mokotowska 12, tel. 664 906 000 With access through a shadowy courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself. Presenting itself in a riot of red and white gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen and the atmosphere of home. The menu is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jour.

listings / restaurants L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, larc.pl Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. No-one complains, however. Pick from numerous types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. $$ La Cocotte Saska (H4) ul. Walecznych 68A Already well regarded on account of a highly successful venture just off Pl. Zbawiciela, La Cocotte have spread their wings to set up shop in scenic Saska. A typical French-style bistro / wine bar, the offer includes a brief but largely brilliant menu whose main strength is its mussels. The wine list is substantial and French-focused. $$ No Comment (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, fb.com/nocommentwarszawa Set inside one of those momentous towers that support Most Poniatowskiego, you don’t feel like you’re in a restaurant, you’ll feel like you’re in a film – something weird by Aronofsky or Lynch.

Seating is small and tight, set around glasstopped tables that favor form over function.

But there’s a reasoning behind this which soon becomes apparent. No Comment is all about intimacy, about bending over platters for surreptitious slurps of New Zealand oysters. It’s about decadence, about clinking glasses and toasting the moment. Most of all, it’s about authentic French style. $$

Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming winter mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. That said, it’s never a surprise to find diners ordering up bottles of Georgian vodka before proceeding to share their way through the menu. $ Rusiko (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko. pl Vodka shots at the ready! Rusiko finished 2015 voted Gazeta Wyborcza’s Knajpa Roku, a very public endorsement of all they’ve done right. The food is the equivalent of a warm cuddle on a cold day – it makes you feel good in the heart and soul – and when it comes to hospitality they’re in a league of their own.

Live music lends the weekends a goodhumored twist. Note: closed Monday. $$

greek & turkish Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel. 22 898 3001 So it’s best known as a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to

sample the smattering of Turkish grill food and salads. $ iGrek (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 28 (enter from Pl. Przymierza), tel 22 114 00 06, i-grek.pl Modernizing the whole concept of how Greek restaurants look and feel, iGrek have also made this cuisine extremely accessible: if you’re on the move, choose from a number of readymade cold dishes. One source of pride is their stock of olive oils imported from Crete. $ Kumpir House (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 59, tel. 723 101 111 Ensconced inside an inviting, raw brick room Kumpir’s warming aura has as much to do with its food and drink as it does its design. Sip fragrant Turkish coffee while picking through loaded jacket potatoes that bring to mind the street stalls of Istanbul. $$ Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, parosrestauracja.pl Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy. pl/santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and

georgian Chinkali (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Signposted by a Georgianlanguage shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. $ Klukovka (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, klukovka.pl Jana

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listings / restaurants tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$

two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures, though the service can come across as distracted and inattentive. $

in a murky, muggy basement. The Indian food that accompanies it is generally successful without being memorable – the beer snack menu though is great, with big points going to the spicy, chili ribs. Now also boasts a more salubrious location on Marszałkowska 10/16. $$

Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us. Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in. $

indian

Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curry-house.pl It’s not been a distinguished year for the Indian scene, with a few old favorites slackening and newcomers failing to make a mark. But hail Curry House for their continued, ceaseless brilliance. That includes the hottest vindaloo for hundreds of miles!

Evolving from a glorified hut out in far-flung Bielany (which is still going strong), they’ve recently upgraded and opened a new venue bang in the city center. $$

Taverna Patris (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel 22 357 11 11, tawernapatris.pl This Greek restaurant is not about sophistication and finesse, it’s about truth and taste. Likewise, the interiors have no airs and graces: there’s a rough and ready style that’s apt for noisy celebrations and familial occasions. Tawerna Patris is not about shallow details or surface appearances. Instead, it’s a place of depth, a place of integrity, a place of joy. $$

hungarian U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl One of the best looking Indian restaurants in Warsaw, but the food rarely pokes above average. For a cuisine that prides itself on rich, intense tastes, Bombaj gets remembered for bland, oily dishes that only sometimes get finished. Yet business remains brisk, thanks in part to a combination of location and general culinary ignorance. $$ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, chmielarnia.waw.pl Find some of the world’s greatest beers (see Nightlife) served

Loft is the perfect place to pause for a moment for a coffee, to meet with friends for lunch or a late dinner – most of all, it’s a chance to escape the city bustle while remaining in the heart of Warsaw. ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 restauracjaloft.pl

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House of Curry ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine death-by-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. $$ Karma (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, restauracjakarma.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look that’s leagues ahead of Warsaw’s other Indian restaurants. The food is largely impressive,

listings / restaurants with fresh ingredients and an expansive menu, though it does lack the extra punch you maybe looking for. If there’s a complaint, then it’s thus: a little timid for more robust tastes, a few extra spices in the pot wouldn’t go amiss. $$

but the madras is something else: filled with sharp, punchy tastes that leave a lasting impression. While you get the idea it’ll never challenge the more established Indian restaurants in Warsaw, it’s the kind of place you’d be very happy to live next door to. $$

Mandala ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 & ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9, tel. 22 428 44 54, mandalaklub. com or indiaexpress.pl Celebrating their 10th birthday this year, Mandala is well on its way to becoming a Warsaw institution. But rather than resting on their laurels, the management are using this landmark anniversary as an opportunity to rejig the menu and update their offer. Using the freshest ingredients, Mandala is characterized by its blitzing big spices and a vindaloo capable of giving the sweat glands a work out. For something calmer, the creamy mutton methi malai is a masterpiece. $$

Rani Al. KEN 48/10, tel. 729 247 400, rani. com.pl Mere steps from Metro Natolin, this restaurant’s catchment area goes beyond just Ursynów. Owner Samir is a self-confessed foodie, and his vision includes a contemporary Indian menu that features pan-seared cod with turmeric, tomato salsa and mint chutney – wonderful. Rani will also please the traditionalists, with everything from creamy kormas to vindaloo’s that leave your ears blowing smoke rings. $$

Mr. India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia. pl Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying. Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion.

Undoubtedly one of the best regarded Indian restaurants in this town. $$ Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. Consistency, however, has become a problem. Whilst we rated a recent butter chicken as the best we’ve had for years, another Insider blasts the Madras as being, ‘the worst curry ever served!’ Good luck. $$ Om (B4) ul. Sienna 86 Indian restaurants are popping up like toast, which isn’t a problem for most ex-pats. Catering to the more budget end of the market, Om’s Nepalese chefs know their way around the kitchen. The chicken tikka masala is satisfying if nothing memorable,

Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen the interior modernized and brightened. Has the food suffered? Not a jot. The chicken tikka butter masala is as formidable as ever. It’s no longer the self-styled, ‘the best Indian restaurant in Poland’, but it’s deservedly retained a loyal core of customers. $$

Finest Authentic Indian Cuisine in Locations Around Warsaw

WWW.HOUSE-OF-CURRY.PL

PATRIOTÓW 11A, FALENICA 512 533 415

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international Aioli Inspired by Mini (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Such is the success of this venue, there are moments when the scrum at the bar threatens to spill into blood sport. The huge neo-industrial interior packs out with a young, lively demographic sinking ‘tank’ beer and powerful cocktails over a menu that chiefly encompasses pizza and burgers. $$ Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$

HOŻA 54

536 443 771

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81 508 870 774

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listings / restaurants Ale Wino (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous. As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, BEST WAWA 2015 “Chef” Oliver.

Bazar Kocha (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’.

The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. $$ Bez Tytułu (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com There’s a beauty to this restaurant that causes guests to stop a moment and soak it all in. Classy yet discreet, the interiors set art and photography against rehabilitated brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a soft light downwards.

The classic cooking has French and Polish accents and has so far won glowing reviews – not least from Froblog, one of the country’s most trusted restaurant sites. $$

Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl With its weathered brickwork and a long wavy bar occupying a significant chunk of the entrance, you don’t get much more casual than Bibenda. ‘True food’, their menu calls it, before expanding to rattle on about ‘fresh, seasonal ingredients and home-style techniques’. On our visit that involved a potato salad with red onion and parsley: basic stuff, but delicious when mushed together; next, soft duck thigh placed on top of a tangy red cabbage reduction and served with charred parsnips; and dessert, a pink beetroot cake that was gobbled in seconds. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Casual Dining” Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it.

At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors.

Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles.com.pl Occupying a small, square

PRESENTING THE MOST BEAUTIFUL RESTAURANT IN POLAND

Al. Ujazdowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl

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room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. $$

Bułkę przez Bibułkę ul. Zgoda 3 & ul. Puławska 24, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl When Bułkę przez Bibułkę was opened the idea was simple – to create a boutique version of Subway: a high quality sandwich shop people would value. But after they started serving breakfast, the whole thing snowballed into a more bistro-style offer. Now there’s a second venue on Zgoda, it’s not just the quality that’s contributed to the success, but the atmosphere as well. $$ Casablanca Biały Kamień ul. Żaryna 2B, casablancawaw.com.pl From the same team behind Na Lato comes Casablanca, a versatile venue that muddies the lines between café, restaurant, wine bar and hangout. Equally comfortable in each of these roles, it’s a place that feels fresh and cosmopolitan, not to mention completely in

listings / restaurants tune with the swank, glass surrounds. More to the point, it’s given wings to a part of Mokotów that before felt quite sterile. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$

Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking. Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. $$ Dyletanci (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with

green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps.

The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does. The design is surreal to say the least,

The Cool Cat (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 Our visit featured a musical standoff between two waiters arguing over possession of the laptop, and a genuine piece of plate art that was as delicious as it looked: beautiful deer surrounded by creative ingredients.

Small menu and a fashionable crowd, but an immensely enjoyable place that adds further oomph to Powiśle. $$

Dekant Wine Bar (F5) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Not just a contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, but also Warsaw’s best new restaurant! The tuna tartar comes with the added ka-boom of a nose clearing wasabi, while the filet mignon (a snip at zł. 79) is simply astonishing.

The surprise are the ash-cooked potatoes, beautiful things with a char that wows. The desserts are few in number but equally outstanding: we fell in love with a passion fruit semi-freddo with strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier. $$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant. com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone.

Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. $$

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listings / restaurants Original Indian Cuisine

and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. $$ Joseph’s Bistro & Wine (B1) ul. Inflancka 4, josephs.pl Spacious and smooth on the eye, Joseph’s has the feel of a place where good things happen: and indeed they do. For starters there’s a visually enticing tuna tartar, not to mention gherkin with rhubarb and cheese. It’s frankly remarkable with all sorts of tastes popping out thanks to a marinade that involves passionfruit, chili, vinegar and maple syrup. As a main, don’t miss the duck breast: a simple thing of beauty that’s given extra vigor with a star anise demi-glace. $$ Bistro Kaskrut (D5) ul. Poznańska 5, fb.com/bistrokaskrut Innovative as ever, a summer rebrand has seen Lili Filipiak (of Top Chef fame) installed as the driving force in the kitchen, the introduction of natural wines and a new focus on gastro excellence. Maintaining a hip, buzzy feel, look on Kaskrut’s evolution as a progressive sign of their growing maturity. At zł. 99, the 4-course tasting menu is remarkable value. $$ La Brasserie Modern (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light.

The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. $$

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Loft (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. $$

MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8 Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean upbringing.

The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and spicy cranberry chutney. Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top donut store, so visit at night for their proper menu. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Newcomer”

Mokotowska 69 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class.

Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. $$ Momu.Gastrobar (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu. pl Back open after a revamp and a rethink, the biggest talking point has been the star addition of a wood smoker imported from the States. Allegedly the only one of its kind in Poland, the menu has been adjusted accordingly to play to this strength – with this in mind, the ribs are a must-have. $

Nowa Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 10, nowaprozna.pl Where once Próżna was symbolic of Warsaw’s urban decay, today it’s been rebooted as a swank street of brasseries and bistros. Nowhere captures the zeitgeist with the same élan as Nowa Próżna, an intimate corner unit that feels representative of the change. Dishes to watch for include young rooster in an intense

listings / restaurants pool of jus and a zander encircled in a forest of greens: powerful stuff that leaves those assembled in a state of joy. $$ The One @ Francuska 3 (H4) ul. Francuska 3, theonefrancuska3.pl Vast in size, the eclectic interiors are complemented by a long, narrow garden that’s set to become a seasonal sensation, while the cooking is gaining recognition for its verve and precision. Choose from a menu that involves the likes of cod soup with crab ravioli, and veal tongue with celery puree. $$ Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. The good news is capped by a wine list selected

by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with a heavyweight reputation. $$

Północ Poludnie (E7) ul. Bagatela 10, pn-pd.pl Besides the food being colorful and inventive there is a restaurant concept that works here. It has a visible kitchen, which at times is a little noisy, a beautifully designed interior, not to mention an attentive wait staff that are familiar with what they serve. $$

reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu. $$

Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, prostahistoria.com Informal-looking with its simple white finishes and stripped wooden floors, Prosta fills a ‘catch-all’ role of cafe/restaurant/bar/meeting point. And it does all the aforementioned very well indeed, thanks to a skilled chef, a good drinks offer and a continental terrace that sees plenty of action. $$

Sawa Bistro (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5, sawabistro.pl An unpretentious ride through largely Mediterranean cuisine with standouts including ‘Galicianstyle octopus’ and an Italian tartar with olive powder, shallots in port and balsamic vinegar and a smoked egg. The interiors are stripped to their original concrete and feature an eye-catching mosaic designed in the PRL style, as well as floor-to-ceiling windows and cheerful blue flashes. $$

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Al. Jazdów 2 (Zamek Ujazdowski), tel. 22 625 7627, qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit

Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, secado.com.pl Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been close to culinary gold, and

www.focaccia.pl tel.: +48 22 829 69 69, ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia

New Menu

Aperitivo Bar

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listings / restaurants that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and the roast beef. $$ Soul Kitchen Bistro (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc. The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. $ ŚRD / PŁD (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 17, srdpld.pl From the same lot behind Powiśle’s Mr. Pancake, so already you know you’re getting yourself into a place that makes a big deal of being zany.

So it proves: Coca Cola sausages and burger soup are a couple of dishes that immediately flash up. Beyond this, and the slightly jarring baby pink and powder blue colors, it’s an exciting detour from the culinary norm. We enjoyed the ‘chicken salsa’. $ Stixx (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx. pl A quite extraordinary concept that stands out as Warsaw’s most ambitious gastronomic project for years. Shoehorned between the Hilton and the dazzling Warsaw Spire, the first thing to strike visitors about Stixx is its size: immense. Despite that, an intelligent design means intimacy is never short in supply. The menu is bold, featuring elements of Polish, Asian and Italian cooking, an idea that sounds absurdly risky – so it speaks volumes for the kitchen staff that even in their first infant days it looks like a success story in the making: already, a few people are asking if it’s the best Indian food in the city… $$ Stółdzielnia (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, stoldzielnia.pl A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with odd-shaped tables and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. $$

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Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl There’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service. What a refreshing change. Chef Jarosław Walczyk favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. $$$ Warbuger Na Żelazna (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62 The easiest mistake one can make is to think this is a burger joint – in part it is, but the whole truth is that it’s so much more. A complete upgrade from their original joint in Mokotów, the real attraction is an enticing page of more-ish, meaty mains: oxtail, beef cheeks and other snips of bits and offal. $$ Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285 The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs. And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion.

But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere.

Matching international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $

italian Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, avepizza.pl The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $ Da Gusto ul. Przemysłowa 31/33, tel. 22 498 11 10, dagusto.com.pl A high-performing neighborhood joint with open, industrial interiors and a menu that feels classically Italian. The thin crust pizzas are a big deal here and have a solid local following. $$

listings / restaurants Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia. com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010.

Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist. $$ Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494 An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$ Enoteka (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl This L-shaped space feels completely correct: tall ceilings, big windows, marble floors and an overwhelming sense of light and sun. The mood is good. Food matches the serious wine list and includes a rich topinmabur soup, creamy Agnolloti pasta and a hearty steak. These are not attempts at a kitchen revolution, rather a concentrated focus on a menu that makes sense. $$ Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl The Insider’s visit went something

w

like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess.

The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one.

This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. $$ La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86, tel. 22 654 3277 Not long back this was the go-to place for Italian expats looking for pizza. Recent trips reveal a kitchen that hasn’t so much rested on its laurels as died on them. $ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custommade oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes.

Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. $ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, sanlorenzo.pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill.

The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. Now also on Żurawia 6/12, only with a more modish design clearly targeted at a slightly younger audience. $$ Sexy Duck (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 400 3737 Marketing themselves as a ‘craft Italian kitchen’, Sexy Duck make a song and dance about artisan this and that while never justifying their own hyperbole. Were they not so keen to tell you otherwise, you’d mistake the food as being something from a mid-market high street chain enterprise. But if their pizza never goes beyond ordinary, that’s done nothing to keep trade from being brisk. Inside interiors filled with aged, raw materials, find a new generation of diners making the most of the low, low prices. $ Si (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115 From the makers of Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails.

Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. $$ Trattoria Murano (B1) ul. Pokorna 2, tel. 516 754 300, trattoriamurano.pl Boosted by a number of new real estate projects, Muranów is in the midst of an unlikely renaissance. A direct

The award-winning Enoteka Polska is back, this time with a new location in the heart of Warsaw’s historic New Town.

A perfect combo of restaurant, wine bar and wine store, aside from offering excellent Italian cuisine, we are a renowned importer with a portfolio of prestigious wine labels from across Europe. Our direct import policy allows guests to enjoy outstanding value for money.

Rynek Nowego

Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl

tel. 882 048 012

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listings / restaurants knock-on has been the birth of numerous restaurants, though few can compete with Trattoria Murano. Looking dapper with its zigzagging brick patterns and circular lights, the good mood is further enhanced by a highly credible menu that scores well on the Italian classics. $$

japanese & sushi Benihana (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills.

These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics.

Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. $ Omami (D5) ul. Mokotowska 29 (enter from Krucza) Sushi has been side-lined and ramen is rising.

Opened a few months ago, Omami promise four types of ramen, not to mention steamed buns and other budget-minded Japanese options. $ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul.

Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement?

That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot (D6) ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750, shabu-shabu.pl Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $$ Shoku (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl In local terms, this has to be amongst the most blogged about restaurants of the year thus far. While it actually opened several months back, it’s only

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now that the place is gathering steam and getting recognized thanks to word-of-mouth.

In truth, it’s not hard to see what the fuss is about: occupying a cool, almost industriallooking spot not far from the Rising Museum, Shoku offers an excellent menu of Asian-style tapas and small plates inside a buzzy background that’s never short of custom. The tuna steak is recommended. $$

Korean restaurant in town. Set in a piece of slightly garish new build, the menu here is as close too authentic as you’ll find in Poland, and includes a fiery kimchi salad, and an interesting bibimbap: a vegetable mix served in a spicy sauce. $$

Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be one of the No. 1 ex-pat choices.

Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$

Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, casapablo.pl “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this.

With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. $$

Uki Uki (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. $$

jewish Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. $

korean Miss Kimchi (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg. The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi.

This is replenishment in its truest form. $ Sora (A4) ul. Wronia 45 Usually bubbling with South Korean customers, their reassuring presence affirms Sora’s growing reputation as the top

latin & spanish

Ceviche Bar (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Created by the award-winning Martin Gimenez Castro, Warsaw’s first specialist ceviche bar serves up various interpretations of this classic raw fish dish: the corvina is an explosion of peppy, citrusy tastes and leaves you in no doubt why some are tipping ceviche to become as big as sushi. Try for yourself inside a contemporary space in which the dining area merges seamlessly with a kitchen decorated with a mural of Maradona. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Foreign Chef” Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness.

Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy tomato sauce. Just amazing. $$ Restaurante Bunuel (H4) ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 798 659 554, bunuel-restauracja.com Spanish-owned Bunuel has left many in raptures. Simple interiors focus attention on the food, which in this case involves a crisp gazpacho that gets you missing summer, and grilled meats

AU T H E N T I C P O L I S H C U I S I N E

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, Warsaw Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 47 70 email: info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl Reseva7ons:

listings / restaurants that leave many in a swoon. $$

Isabela Balderas. $$

mexican Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, this landmark is committed to local produce and fresh flavors, the previous chef’s finest moment was hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Note: not all recent reports have been positive, with service issues cited as a particular complaint. $$

Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, gringobar.pl A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. $

Dos Tacos (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl Dos Tacos finally have a venue worthy of the food. Featuring lots of Mexican lizard art and psychedelic, Day of the Dead touches, find the interiors busy with a lively crowd enjoying an exciting range of salsas and authentic Mexican recipes as cooked by

La Sirena (D5) ul. Piękna 54 Apparently inspired by the ultraviolent films of Danny Trejo, the design finds a middle ground between a traditional cantina and El Chapo’s jail. The menu includes creamy Kermit-colored guacamole, cocktails that are both vicious and delicious, and ‘drunken beans’ full of heart and vim.

Does it get better? Yes, particularly with the ‘short ribs burrito’ and a readjusted ‘almost death’ salsa that’s finally learned to say POW. This is the best Mexican food Warsaw is ever likely to see. $$ Urban Burritos (D6) ul. Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl It’s here, in this unassuming subterranean world, that people gather for what is being hyped as Warsaw’s top burrito. Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom, wraps come expertly constructed and served with salsas that sing with gusto. Set within shouting distance of the US Embassy, peak times see Urban Burritos fill to the seams with America’s finest. $

middle eastern Falafel Bejrut (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15 Light, bright and buzzing with custom, this cheerful venture has a small scattering of seating and an expanded menu

La Brasserie Moderne is a modern interpretation of traditional brasserie designed to bring the taste of the French art de vivre right to your table. Discover a seasonal menu skillfully composed by chef Maciej Majewski by combining the finest culinary traditions of France with local flavors and a modern twist.

Our open kitchen will complement your dining experience by creating a sense of participation in a live culinary show.

La Brasserie Moderne, visit us Mon.-Sat. noon-midnight | Królewska St 11 | 00-065 Warsaw | Tel. +48 22 657 83 82 | Email: brasserie.moderne@sofitel.com | www.facebook.com/brasserie.moderne

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listings / restaurants whose talking point is award-winning falafel.

The hummus, too, is pretty amazing. $ Falafel Bejrut Moliera 8 (D2) ul. Moliera 8 So what would you prefer – an underperforming steakhouse or what’s commonly regarded as the best falafel Warsaw has ever seen? In all truth, polls are closed on that one. Taking the place of the defunct Muu Muu restaurant, Falafel Bejrut have grown from life as a ‘food bike’ outside Hala Mirowska, to a runaway juggernaut in the heart of Warsaw. Both the falafel and hummus are exceptional, and you’ll find their latest venue also serving artisanal vegan ice cream from Vegestacja. $ Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across

the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl It says a lot for Warsaw’s developing tastes that it can now house a successful Yemeni venture. Bathed in chatter and chaotic kitchen sounds, Sokotra is an informal place with Indian twists on the menu, and a card that encourages plenty of plate sharing. $$

pancakes Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753, manekin.pl Originally founded in Toruń, this pancake house chain is a national phenomenon – there are times when queues for a table snake outside. The menu touts dozens of pancake options served in sweet and savory form (there’s even a spaghetti version…), though not everyone agrees they’re worth the often silly waiting times. $ Mr. Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, mrpancake.

pl You’re just going to love their pancakes, with their fun, wacky look and creative toppings (M&Ms, funny faces traced with icing sugar, and lots of chocolatey stuff).

They’re the sort of pancakes you’d get if Bart Simpson got stoned and decided to make some food – brilliant. $

polish

Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead?

Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave.

Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, bazyliszek.waw.pl Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $

NOVEMBER PROMOTIONS! Monday

Order one of our set menu and we give you 2 bottles of house wine for the price of 1

Tuesday

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66

Le Cedre 84

Order set menu Le Cedre and get the water pipe for free

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99

Wednesday

www.lecedre.pl

-30% for all set menu

Lebanese Restaurant Le Cedre 61

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listings / restaurants Chłopskie Jadło (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717, chlopskiejadlo.pl A nationwide chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements.

And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t too bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics and soup presented in bread. Most Poles cringe at such a representation of their country, but there’s no denying it: it’s an accurate caricature of a mountain-slope karczma. $

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl Shush! Big Brother is watching in the Red Pig, but the beady-eyed tyrants who stare down from the portraits do little to impede the sense of revelry. A cheeky celebration of days of yore, this commie-themed restaurant

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is always great fun. The menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the proletariat and the dignitary. Another vodka, comrade, and the first secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer just to see it. The menu sees Polish dishes modernized while being treated with competence and respect. Recommended: deer steak. $$

Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen)

but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion.

Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking.

When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$ Dom Polski Belwederska (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The

listings / restaurants air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. $$

RESTAURANT &

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

VODKA

AT E L I E R

Elixir by Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl The dashing interior causes you to stop, look and touch.

On one side, a gleaming bar with twinkling bottles, and on the other, a smart series of rooms whose ash-colored tones are punctuated with dashes of copper. The menu has a traditional heart yet a contemporary style, and includes golonka to make the heart flutter: slow-cooked meat alongside horse radish ice cream and a creamy cabbage mousse. The vodka pairing menu is essential! $$

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Be honest, sometimes all you want to do is slather lard on a big hunk of bread before surrounding yourself with little shots of ice cold vodka. You wouldn’t call it cultivated, but there are occasions when a good kneesup around a rough wooden table is exactly what’s required. And while you’re there, why not add platters of meat to the scene, a crackling fireplace and a mountain band. Folk Gospoda do all that making them the default favorite for a traditional night out. $$ Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, kafezn.pl Exceeding all expectations in their second year, the Green Bear has turned into the mothership for all things relating to slow food: if in doubt, check the menu, an ode to provenance that comes complete with detailed biographies of their suppliers.

Using creative techniques, this restaurant modernizes Polish food and rolls it out inside a stylish building popular with people who look like they might well be famous.

Incidentally, the sea buckthorn cream was our top dessert of 2015. $$ Kieliszki na Próżnej (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the

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rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. $$ Kmicic (D1) ul. Piwna 27, kmicicrestauracja.pl Aiming to evoke the spirit of pre-war Warsaw, Kmicic is something of a veteran on the Old Town circuit, and as such a perennial favorite of passing tourists. The menu leans heavily towards traditional and is noted for its game including pheasant, venison and boar. $$ Mała Polana Smaków (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night.

And the food: exceptional. Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. $$ Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, kregliccy.pl Sneaked off a lively street, guests duck down into a chain of two narrow-ish chambers that, whilst not exactly casual, feel comfortable and familiar. Agata Wojda’s cooking is sublime, and on our latest trip include a gentle goose confit rested on pumpkin puree and prune sauce and a smoked trout mousse full of unexpectedly vivid flavors. It’d be easy to write this off as just simple stuff done well, but you know that’s not the case: if it really were that straightforward, BEST everyone would be pulling it off. $$ WAWA 2015 “Modern Polish” Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Bartek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats: order

listings / restaurants the beef rib. It’s a massive, brutal instrument that could be used to club someone to death. Fall-off-the-bone good, this Flintstone monster is seriously memorable. Other courses are more sophisticated, and include a knee trembling, lipstick red strawberry tartar. $$

Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, podgigantami.pl The wine list impresses, as do the elegantly fairytale turn-of-the-century interiors. The menu, meanwhile, is almost ambassadorial in its representation of Polish food: you feel, almost, that these are dishes of the pre-war aristocracy with aesthetically updated to suit the moden world. $$$ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225 The

rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist.

Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. $$ Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditional-sounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you.

This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $

Smaki Warszawy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, www.smakiwarszawy. pl Well-known on the Warsaw scene as a delightful Polish restaurant, Smaki Warszawy is also renowned for its cakes. Smiling staff pour amazing lattés and serve up slices of to-die-for pistachio cream cake. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, solec.waw.pl Beaver tail one month, carp heads the next.

Combing the farms and forests of Poland for his ingredients, chef Aleksander Baron’s menu is a daring exploration of his nose-totail philosophy with many of his methods reprising extinguished traditions. It’s a real experience, and one that’s enjoyed inside a spontaneous looking, cut-price interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games. $$ Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a

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listings / restaurants favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$ Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, varso-vie.pl Despite the concrete color palette Varso Vie retains a good buzz. It helps that on one side guests

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are flanked by punchy bursts of modern art, and on the other, an open kitchen that’s all clamor, commotion and general rumpus.

The menu is modern Polish: duck stomachs in a flaky puff pastry with a thick smear of thyme sauce; Baltic trout served on a pinkish mush of red lentils and mint; and a coveted meringue mousse with mascarpone and passion fruit jelly. Exemplary. $$

types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, zapiecek.eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty

russian

Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. In summer, head instead to their glorious garden across the street in the park: adding a sophisticated twist to the holy grill, the skewered lamb is to die for. $$

Skamiejka ul. Ząbkowska 37, tel. 512 123 967, fb.com/ skamiejka As a social point, this family-run restaurant works incredibly well. Located at the far end of Ząbkowska, it’s a place filled with assorted clutter and Russian bits and pieces: album covers, books, jars of pickles and jumble sale finds. The welcome is

listings / restaurants second-to-none, while beverages include a wide range of vodka and beer from the former Soviet-bloc nations. The food though is a bit of a massacre. Take the zharkoe: what should be a thick and hefty pot roast is limp and placid and empty of taste.

seafood L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, larc. pl You sometimes suspect Warsaw doesn’t give seafood the respect it deserves. But the city’s shortcomings are atoned for by L’Arc. Choose from the lobsters swimming on Death Row, then settle back for a meal to die for.

Likewise, the oysters, crab and mussels never disappoint. $$ Lokal na Rybę (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/lokalnarybe Seafood doesn’t play a particularly distinguished role in Warsaw’s culinary history, so the opening of a good fish restaurant tends to get the locals talking. But Lokal isn’t just good, it goes several steps beyond. Open just three days a week (Thu-Sat, evenings only), the rotating menu presents a handful of daily choices against a simple, no pretence interior that’s often packed solid – reservations come recommended, as do the mussel dishes. $$

Zmiana Klimatu (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, zmianaklimatu.pl An interesting looking restaurant that affords diners the chance to climb up some steps and eat inside a boat. The food, frankly, is a different league: a thick, throbbing lemon soup poured carefully over a dust of crayfish; two slithers of seabass layered onto a creamy black risotto; and steak served under a glass dome billowing with Cherrywood smoke.

Everything we tried was stunning. $$

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with

shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. And don’t miss a chat with the nation’s most celebrated butcher: Pan Grzegorz of Crazy Butcher.

Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994.

Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend.

Forteca Kregliccy ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul.

Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, marks-and-spencer.com.pl Visit the flagship Marszałkowska branch to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes early. Aside from baked goods find a widely appreciated frozen food section that include British sausages, bacon and microwave curries.

For An Authentic Polish Experience Visit Us...

Piwna 27 Stare Miasto (old town) tel. 22 635 3121

Mojo Picon (D5) ul. Poznańska 3, mojopicon.pl Mojo Picon specializes in vending Spanish groceries, expressly the produce of the Canary Islands.

A creditable charcuterie section is enhanced by an array of cheese, wine and jarred exotica.

Samira ul. Powsińska 64A, tel. 22 825 3363, samira. pl Now in bigger and better premises, this Lebanese supermarket offers a comprehensive rundown of imported goods that ranges from spices, preserves and rubs to nuts, olives, teas and soft drinks.

Steak Club Online orders: steakclub.pl Online meat portal that will deliver the kind of beef www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants usually only available to the top restaurants straight to your door. Expat owned and run, the repertoire has recently been extended to include other meats such as turkey.

Targ Śniadaniowy Al. Wojska Polskiego, targsniadaniowy.pl The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must.

Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town. Now also present in three other locations: check their web for details.

steak houses Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745 There’s now a

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few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. $$$ Ed Red Warszawa Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl Already famed for their steaks in Kraków, the opening of a branch of Ed Red in Warsaw has been greeted with hysteria. You understand why just looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, blood sausage with onion preserve, and mountain oysters with smoke white chocolate sauce. But for all that, the center stage belongs to the steaks, many of which are made using dry-aged meat for optimum taste. Full review soon. $$$ Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, hoza. warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, merliniego5.pl A classic looking steakhouse

that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses.

The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. Simply amazing. $$$

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better.

During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Foreign Chef”

thai Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888,

listings / restaurants suparomthaifood.pl Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II Al. Wilanowska 309, tel. 22 853 3087, suparomthaifood.pl Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Thai Me Up (E4) ul. Foksal 16, thaimeup.pl Taking the spot once occupied by Papaya, Thai Me Up offers up a far more informal experience than the former, something understood by one glance at the interior: gone are the gloss finishes of yesteryear, replaced by something far more casual, fun and cluttered (check the monkey lights!). As for the food, that succeeds in bringing the fresh, snappy tastes of Asia to Foksal. The wok dishes are a forte and deserve special attention. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below.

As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and dynamic

colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! $$ Thaisty (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty. pl The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day. $$

Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai. pl A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. $ Wi-Taj (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 4 Despite the name, it’s actually the cuisine of Vietnam that is the dominant entity in this restaurant. There is the odd moment of madness (glazed cherries

appearing at random), but in general Wi-Taj does a grand job of representing a kitchen that hasn’t always enjoyed the greatest publicity in Warsaw. The crunchy, perky nem are a fine way to start, but it’s the steaming bowls of pho that have this Insider promising to return. As for prices, these rarely climb north of zł. 30.

uzbek Manty (C3) ul. Elektoralna 24 Even with its colorful throws and woodsy knickknacks Manty’s high ceilings and wide open spaces mean intimacy is in short supply. Instead, people talk about the food, which in this case means ultra-cheap piles of Uzbek goodies: delicate manty dumplings with a cream dip and chili kick, or the more substantial lamb plov – a warming heap of rice, mutton, carrots and peppers.

Chances are you’re going to love it. $

vegan & wholefood Edamame Vegan Sushi (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing belowpar fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc.

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listings / restaurants The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. $$ Krowazywa (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 881 777 894 ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl Packed with girls wearing skating clothes and moon boots, this burgery makes a big boast that their whole menu is 100% plant-based and their food compiled using ‘the best, freshest, unprocessed and full-balanced ingredients.’

The Warzywex, a burger composed of marinated and grilled slices of local veg, is an absolute winner. $ Lokal Vegan Bistro (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. $ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, lovinghut.waw.pl What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. Now also found downtown on Waryńskiego 3. $

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Mango Vegan Street Food (D4) ul. Bracka 20 Everything vegan that you’d actually like to eat: veggie burgers, fries, falafel, soup, a fruit salad – here, obviously a mango salad. Especially recommended is the hummus with sun-dried tomatoes – a nice twist on a simple, classic dish. $ Organitheka (C4) ul. Twarda 1, fb.com/organitheka Seasonal, fresh, organic: Organitheka is all these and more. Raw, plant-based meals are their principal claim to fame, though these are accompanied by a selection of cold pressed juices, raw chia desserts, coconut yogurts and other surprises: the tiny dining room belies the depth of choice and flavor. $$ Vegan Pizza (D5) ul. Poznańska 7 While the place lacks effort on the design front, the pizza is pretty good.

There’s 24 to pick from, and while it’s not love at first bite, there’s a tendency to get strangely hooked by the new tastes and alien sensations. Definitely an interesting departure from the high street pizzerias.

Recommended: Italian Madness – melty cheese and herby bursts of pesto. $ Veg Deli (E3) ul. Radna 14 An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that nearly always hit the spot. The tacos are a bit of a disappointment, but the quinoa burger is

fabulous, and the homemade Russian pierogi an absolute highlight. Even committed meat eaters recognize there’s something special going on here. $$ Vurst (G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A Who in their right mind opens a tiny, little joint in the back streets of Saska and then fills the interior with a life size Darth Vader and a board that asks customers to: “Stay Tuned and Praise Our Lord Satan”? Specializing in vegan hot dogs, the dawgs themselves are small and soggy: the kind of damp disappointment you buy at the gas station. $ Youmiko Vegan Sushi (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg Already wellestablished in Kraków, Youmiko enter Warsaw’s vegan sushi market hot on the heels of Edamame on Wilcza nearby. There’s definitely more of a hipster, ‘urban guerrilla’ feel to Youmiko, but the sushi is every bit a success. Often better than ‘the real thing’. $

vietnamese Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) multiple locations, duzamiha.pl A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $

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Ristorante & Cocktail Bar Si - Marszałkowska 115, Bank Square, Warsaw, phone: +48 507 099 190 e-mail: kontakt@restauracjasi.pl. For more info go to facebook.com/ RestauracjaSi

cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTABLE

bakeries Aromat (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/piekarnia.aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page.

Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around.

DOBRO & DOBRO (ul. Puławska 11, fb.com/dobrocafe) Measuring in at just 6 sq/m, Dobro’s claim to be Poland’s smallest cafe looks pretty irrefutable.

But while their dinky size has won them plenty of publicity, this is more than just some novelty act. Run by a cool Ukrainian couple, this little diamond offers great coffee, homemade soup of the day and dinky-sized Ukrainian treats and sweets. If you’re feeling nice, buy a ‘suspended coffee’: i.e. a coffee for the next person that comes in but can’t afford their own.

Charlotte (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl.

Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out.

Krucza 23 Café & Bakery (D5) ul. Krucza 23, fb.com/krucza23 There’s lots of organic activity on the menu, plus an exciting spread of eco-coffee from far-flung nations. Find all this done in a post-industrial interior that makes use of lots of concrete and natural light.

Paul Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in the capital following their debut last year.

BRUNET (ul. Miodowa 23) A friendly cafe with floor-to-ceiling windows that allow for plenty of light to slant into the smart, brick-walled interiors. The drinks come from alternative brands such as Moon Brothers and John Lemon, though their main selling point is a cast-iron oven that’s used to cook-up jacket potatoes heaped with a choice of fresh ingredients.

Petit Appetit (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45 The smell of freshly-baked loaves often wafts into the street, leaving passers-by with no option but to peer in – sweet temptation. And sweet is the right word: aside from divine baguettes check the pastries and brioches.

Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that’s worthy www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars of the rave reviews. Aside from baguettes, muffins, croissants, etc. this smart corner unit has a superb wine list and a smattering of main courses that include flat iron steak.

Zdrowa Konkurencja (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, zdrowakonkurencja.pl Aside from piping hot, fresh wheels of bread, visitors are popping in to collect readymade bagels and sandwiches loaded with pulled pork, pastrami and other quick bites.

desserts Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19 Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake? If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level.

Kępa, watching pastry chef Piotr Chylarecki at work is to witness a mix of magic and science: you’re not sure which. Calculated precision and intricate methods collide with passion and understanding for the products at hand, themselves sourced from afar afield as Madagascar and the Dominican Republic.

The denouement is a selection of pralines and cakes that cause you to stop and stare at these intricate baubles.

La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22 Thick with the scent of icing sugar, La Vanille’s big boast are cupcakes that will make you swoon. Find them lined up in precise formation under a glass counter, and don’t forego the cakes in the display case to the right. It looks chic and glossy, but most get the cupcakes packed up to go.

Cukiernia Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, restauracjastarydom. pl A beautifully elegant confectionary that evokes memories of Old Poland. Flock wallpaper and checkered floors add to the high tea ambience, as do the lines of glinting bottles and a counter stocked with temptations. Pastry chef Mariusz Palarczykow is a king in his field.

Le Chocolat (D5) ul. Żurawia 26, lechocolat.pl This chic emporium is the realization of one couples desire to offer top-quality chocolates that challenge the palate of the discerning fan.

Inspired by the chocolate boutiques of Paris, over twenty different brands from a dozen countries are available. Handmade pralines and truffles, displayed almost like jewels, come in a rainbow of fillings, from coconut to cherries, mint to almonds.

Deseo (H3) ul. Angorska 27, deseopatisserie.com Conducting operations from a glassed-off laboratory at Deseo’s mothership in Saska

MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8 A place full of everlasting love for the humble donut. Inspired by their travels to New York, owners Kamila and

Patrycja have filled a hole in the market by creating a cool spot that’s committed to natural ingredients and the artisan process.

Those glistening technicolors you see are down to the use of fresh fruit and dried flowers! Soft and chewy, enjoy dazzling flavors such as mango or hibiscus.

Odette (D4) ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl Almost holistic in its ambience, the obstacle-free interior utilizes aspects of space and light, causing attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that sweet creations glimmer behind glass like precious little gems.

cafés Blikle (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35, blikle.pl There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100-year history. Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who swore by their donuts.

Bubbleology (D4) ul. Chmielna 26, bubbleology.pl Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café. But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. Warsaw’s original bubble tea stop offers an arsenal of fruit flavors concocted by zany-looking lab-coated staff.

Bułkę przez Bibułkę ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3, tel. 794 000 634, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

Life Is Too Short For Bad Coffee!

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Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, bycmoze. com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal.

listings / cafés & wine bars Cophi (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60 Deviating away from ‘the Warsaw look’ (i.e. concrete, pipes, etc.), Cophi is the kind of place you actually want to stay in: homey and intimate but at the same time light and modern. You can sense the thought and passion behind this operation from the staff – find them using Aeropress, Chemex, siphon and drip methods with almost scientific precision in their quest to serve you what some are already claiming to be Warsaw’s best coffee.

Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital.

on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants.

Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt.

Kos (D4) ul. Chmielna 9A Kos is a place intent on stitching the neighborhood together. That much is made clear by a diverse events calendar that features a panoply of activities: yoga courses to weekend brunches via the occasional kid’s improvisation class. As commendable as these social actions are, it’s the basics that Kos do so well. Drenched in natural sunlight, perch on the windowsill and enjoy swift wifi, award-winning coffee and a menu of homemade snacks and bits. Find it inside the Jewish Community Center.

Filtry Café (A6) ul. Niemcewicza 3, filtrycafe.pl Filtry Cafe’s got great coffee, fruit shakes, cakes, and light breakfasts combined with a funky fleapit atmosphere that attracts hipster art lovers.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy. pl Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers

MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen

that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day.

And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall.

Monsieur Leon (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 5 Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets.

Here, simplicity is the name of the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur.

With wine tipping down and conversation wafting around this compact, casual space, it doesn’t take a giant leap of imagination to think yourself in France.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Odette Tearoom (C4) ul. Twarda 4, odette.pl If you thought those living in Warsaw’s swankiest residential tower – the Cosmopolitan – had it tough, then you’ve got one more reason to envy them: the ground floor Odette Tearoom.

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listings / cafés & wine bars Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul. Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere.

Przystanek Powiśle (E3) ul. Browarna 6 Of the many things to like about Przystanek, it’s probably the desserts that swing it: homemade cakes and flans that cause all life to pause. Perfectly poised overlooking Park Kazimierzowski, it’s a popular spot to explore their small range of niche beers and wine. Outside of night time hours, many sing the praises of their creative range of tapas and snacks.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Resort (C2) ul. Bielańska 1 The main talking point here is a design that utilizes shopping trollies and street signs to serve as chairs and tables, and a pile of second-hand books to form the bar – there’s even a sofa constructed from a bathtub! Themes of recycling are taken to the limit in Resort, yet for all that it never looks junky or cheap.

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik.

You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so.

One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch

Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history,

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2016

the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. And the wine choice is prodigious: offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls.

Charlotte (D6) ul. Aleja Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl.

Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Apple technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar.

Dekant Wine Bar (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace.

Dyletanci (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl Often filled to capacity with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, join them on green banquettes illuminated with Tom Dixon lamps. The wine list is fitting of the A-list, and aside from exceptional international choices, also includes interesting wines from the proprietor’s own label – a frankly superb Polish brand called Dom Bliskowice.

Enoteka (D1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl It’s the wine bar New Town has been waiting for ever since… the old Enoteka closed. The eagerly awaited return brings with

it a new location – right on the corner of New Town Square and a wine list from curated by importer Maciej Bomboł.

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire.

Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool.

Mielzynski Wine Bar (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: the concise menu is never too complex while the exciting wine choice presents over 500 labels. This vibrant warehouse-style space promises much.

Wine Taste by Kamecki (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, winetaste.pl Run by Piotr Kamecki, President of the Polish Association of Sommeliers, this beautiful glass-fronted unit functions both as a wine bar and store offering expert advice, cellar design and tastings.

Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, winosfera.pl Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy.

Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk. Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, zurawina.eu Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve earned a staunchly loyal following that includes high flying types and Paris Hilton wannabes that carry yappy dogs in their bag.

nightlife NEW & NOTABLE

QUFEL BEER PARK (ul. Górczewska 124, Wola Park) This tap bar comes with a difference, that being its definite slant towards sport: aside from screens aimed at armchair fans, the propensity of pool tables and darts machines appeals to the more active pub sportsman. For everyone else, that means an atmosphere that’s louder and livelier than most bars of this ilk. Outside of these surface details, the main attraction is a well-policed beer choice set out across 15 taps.

SKETCH W TEATRZE WIELKIM (Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, sketch.pl) Hitherto better known as an upscale tap bar aimed at glam stylists and models with sleeve tattoos, Sketch have shown they’re getting serious about the kitchen aspect with the appointment of Sebastian Olma as chef. Known for his work at Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź, not to mention winning the second series of Top Chef, Olma has been hailed as one of the brightest culinary talents of recent times.

bars & pubs Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd.

What has remained constant is the energy.

Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

Ceska (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl Having promised to never return following an incident with a nincompoop waiter, we’ve done exactly the opposite… and become regulars! Views of scantily-clad shoppers wiggling down the street are one attraction, though the biggest is the Czech ‘tank’ pouring system. Order the mliko, a beer that’s all creamy froth that you can sink down in seconds.

Hard Rock Cafe (C5) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe. pl Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn

by Madonna.

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, fb.com/KrakenRumBar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl Legends is slowly achieving legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while autumn sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoey, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.

Stixx (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx. pl It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle down.

clubs

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Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl Feeling naughty?

Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

No Comment (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego Found in one of the towers that prop up Most Poniatowskiego, a ‘sense of unknown’ manifests itself inside this weekend’s only club, a bi-level area whose small size adds to the air of mystery and exclusivity. Away from the prying eyes of Joe Public, find glittery, local celebs getting down and naughty.

The View (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club has reinvented the whole concept of going out in Warsaw.

A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. No other club nails the champagne lifestyle with quite the same panache.

cocktails 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Taking its lead from the New York fad for covert bars, the 6 adventure begins in front of a heavy arched gate. Ring the bell, await the buzz of approval and then find yourself summoned into a rambling apartment that feels sultry and sensual.

Complete with a shadowy smoking lounge and a whirlpool tub in the bathroom, it’s the best secret in Warsaw. To enjoy the bespoke cocktails yourself, message them on Facebook and await your invite…

Bar & Books (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Seen through a thin THE MOST autumnal mist, this white townhouse radiates REFRESHINGLY CIVILIZED PLACES TOlights MEET glimmer, piano music tinkles. warmth: CIGARS & WHISKY and lined with leather-bound Wood-paneled ≈ WINE & there’s CHAMPAGNE a sense of dignity that’s tomes, ≈ COCKTAILS CUSINE unique to&Warsaw’s cocktail scene. There’s ≈ TASTINGS humor, as well, courtesy of portraits of ≈ PRIVATEtogged EVENTS out like 18th century gentry. chimps ≈ LOCATION Similar toSaHOOTS members’ only Mayfair bar, find ‘classic twist’ cocktails mixed and PODWALE Bwith AR AND Ba OOKS Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw muddled by the sort of charming bartenders Tel.: +48 225.599.199 you’d trust serving Bond. While bills can TM

listings / nightlife become weighty affairs, no one regrets the spend – plus, you can smoke here as well!

Bar Wieczorny (D8) ul. Wiśniowa 46, barwieczorny.pl The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.). Further, you’ll find it’s the right products in the right hands – the staff really know their game.

Fokim (D5) ul. Krucza 24/26 To like is an edgy interior that includes a neon that urges customers to ‘eat, drink, dance, riot’ and an Asian-inspired drinks list that features sake on-tap, shots with names like Karate Kid, and cocktails with proper verve: e.g., the Marry Me, a bonkers, bastardized version of the Bloody Mary that’s actually better than the real thing.

Karowa 31 (D3) ul. Karowa 31, warsawbarproject.com Warsaw’s original speakeasy grants access

via a retractable door disguised as a VHS collection – how cool is that!? Maze-like in layout, the retro-looking Karowa 31 unravels to reveal a series of chambers concealed in shadow, though for all that the cocktails are the real draw: masterful creations composed by a dreadlocked Dane called Bram.

Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, there are times in Kita Koguta where sitting at bar level is like watching Dexter’s Laboratory: the staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned: on our last visit, a basic Bloody Mary was turned into an alcoholic carrot flavored fizz.

The Roots (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11 Like the food and beer sector before it, Warsaw’s cocktail scene has been ripped and reinvented by the artisan movement. With a riveting cocktail list that

demonstrates the full scope of the staff’s talent, The Roots is the latest in a string of bars to adapt to the times. Sip up inside a delicious interior furnished with glistening collectibles that tell the story behind the arcane craft of mixology.

Weles (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals.

At weekends this place rocks when DJ Trent gets onto the decks.

Woda Ognista (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition

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listings / nightlife era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes.

Zorza (D4) ul. Żurawia 6/12, zorzabistro.pl Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work. Do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction.

craft beer Beerokracja (D5) Marszałkowska 99/101, beerokracja.pl You can forget that it’s just opened, the subterranean Beerokracja isn’t far removed from the student union bars you may have frequented 20 years back: Nirvana and Hendrix posters, live bands, a big screen for football and lots of shouty background din. But despite looking like it was rustled up in a day the place works faultlessly: find a great line-up of new wave beers served

by a staff who prefer to pour your beer first than answer the phone that’s ringing in their pocket.

BrewDog Warszawa (D4) ul. Widok 8 First things first: BrewDog’s beers begin at zł. 17. On learning this there are some who scatter, others who scoff, but the let’s get the facts straight – you’re unlikely to find a cheaper pint of BrewDog in the world! Hailed as one of the top artisan breweries on the planet, quality is the name of the game here: this is a place where the interiors rock and the beers go BOSH. No pub will do a better job this year.

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshing contemporary.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six

or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers.

Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

Jabeerwocky (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl Even in an area bulging with bars, Jabeerwocky has become a point of pilgrimage for beer aficionados. If the creative line-up of guerrilla breweries wasn’t enough, then there’s the management’s readiness to roll their sleeves up and even brew their own beer. Add to that an atmosphere of general hubbub and you have our favorite tap bar of all time!

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage.

Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code.

Same Krafty (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, samekrafty.pl Set across two small, rugged rooms, Same Krafty gets populated by an organic combination of tourists, couples and beer enthusiasts.

There’s ten taps from which to choose, and a fridge with several interesting international beers. The Old Town doesn’t have much to shout about when it comes to nightlife, so Same Krafty is more than welcome.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, spiskowcy.pl The ground

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listings / nightlife floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink.

And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

gentleman’s club Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”).

Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

live music Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35 Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and

ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 22 258 1441

industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger.

Eufemia (D3) Krakowskie Przedmieście 5 (enter via ul. Niżyńskiego), klubojadalniaeufemia. blogspot.com Eufemia unwraps into a series of side rooms furbished with VHS tapes, student artwork and furniture looted from your grandparents dining room. The claustrophobic atmosphere lends itself well to intimate gigs that see everything from improvised instrumentals to bands called Graveyard Drug Party.

Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats,

Come and visit our cocktail bar inspired by Warsaw’s nightlife from the 1920’s and 30’s, combined with the soul of modern city.

Unique atmosphere, craft cocktails, regional and seasonal cuisine.

Our doors are open 7 days a week!

tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks. Now featuring a new, separate side room that’s way more chilled out.

vodka Bar Warszawa (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, barwarszawa.pl Thick with alcoholic fumes and the sound of drunken tantrums, Bar Warszawa excels in its role as a late night dive bar. Split on two levels, upstairs is where most head to flop around a retro lounge interior filled with nostalgic decorations that tempt kleptomaniacs.

The cut price shots and pints do their bit in facilitating slurred conversations with a variety of strangers. Not surprisingly, evenings often extend beyond the advertised closing time of 4 a.m.

Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise.

Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible.

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shopping accessories Bursztynek Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co The largest amber jewellery store in Warsaw, though in addition to that visitors can also purchase unique amber-related souvenirs as well as more classic gifts associated with Poland.

Calvin Klein ul. Mysia 3 Poland’s first Calvin Klein concept store is dedicated to watches, jewelry and assorted beautiful shiny things that everyone covets.

FOR THE KITCHEN COOKOFF BY BOOKOFF (ul. Żelazna 91, bookoff.pl) Aspiring home chefs to full-on foodies gather at Cookoff, a beautiful store filled with specialist food titles printed in their original lingo: cook books, restaurant guides, kitchen memoirs and everything else in between.

MAKUTRA (pictured) (ul. Oleandrów 5, makutra.com) Looking for a Born to Grill apron? Or maybe the latest cookbook from Thomas Keller? Or how about pots and pans from Riess? Installed as one of the top kitchenware stores in town, Makutra has the lot. As owner Magdalena Raczkowska says: “It’s for people who love cooking and love beautiful things.” Exactly.

NAP (ul. Mysia 3, nap.com.pl) Bedtime accessories are the bread and butter here, but there’s also several bits for the kitchen as well: coffee makers

by Tom Dixon, posh pans from Baumalu, arty saltshakers from Menu and tableware from Muubs. A true treat for any kitchen.

SCANDINAVIAN LIVING (ul. Wiertnicza 155, scandinavianliving.pl) Representing upcoming Swedish, Danish and Finnish designers as well as several truly iconic names, Scandinavian Living presents such finds as tablecloths from Lazy Linen, ceramics by Bloomingville, and fun tableware from Muminki.

Both the style and scope of the offer are immensely impressive.

DŁUGA SHOWROOM (ul. Długa 8/14, dlugashowroom.pl) Decorative plaster materials from Novacolor and porcelain from Visa Alegre (the official china of the White House and Buckingham Palace) are a couple of reasons to go here for spending. Alternatively, go Polish by going for the designer tableware of Bartek Meyer.

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Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, chiara-online.pl You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry.

Church’s Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14 A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes. di Trevi Boutique Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestigious brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic interior that exudes luxury.

Frey Wille ul. Nowy Świat 37, frey-wille.com You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Vienna-based jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals.

Glamourous Pochette tel. (+48) 798 089 959, Glamorous-Pochette. com Leave an unforgettable impression with stylish pocket squares made from the finest,

listings / shopping hand selected Moroccan raw silk. So they say: ‘each one tells a story, or carries strong ties to a particular place or moment – when you wear one of our pocket squares, you take these stories and transform them into your own’.

Puppy Star ul. Niecała 7, puppystar.pl You know those glam girls who carry yappy dogs in their handbag? This is premiumpriced salon and boutique is where they shop for their pooch.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsaw-stamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look.

Schubert ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter?

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3 The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula.

Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, lilou.pl Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista.

Minty Dot ul. Bracka 5, mintydot.pl Top quality Polish jewelry composed using gold, silver and natural stone. Contemporary in style, these are accessories that radiate class and craftsmanship while at the same time exuding a subtle sense of timeless romance.

Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, mo61.pl Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space.

Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40 A collection of hand-selected eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris.

books Books For Cooks ul. Inżynerski 1, booksforcooks.pl Just guess what the specialty here is? And if the Praga address deters you, then click to their web to find a hefty offer of original language cook books, memoirs, restaurant guides and assorted foodie must-haves.

Czuły Barbarzyńca ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl A cafe / bookstore hybrid that you’d imagine doing well in Paris.

The Polish-language choice is broad, and whilst the number of English-language could be extended everyone finds the atmosphere irresistible.

Fundacja Bęc Zmiana ul. Mokotowska 65/7, beczmiana.pl A small curiosity shop selling trendy trinkets and a fair amount of art and architecture books with an accent on modern Warsaw.

Księgarnia Bullerbyn ul. Chmielna 10, bullerbyn.com.pl A supremely cheerful bookstore peddling everything from pop-up books and fairytales to history and legends. The ace up their sleeve is a sizeable selection of English-language literature: and that includes The Gruffalo!

Moda Na Czytanie ul. Bracka 25 Some brilliant Warsaw-focused coffee table books, as well a half-decent collection of English-language books that range from classics to contemporary fiction.

Radio Telewizja ul. Andersa 29 Radio Telewizja stock a range of literature that cover topics from local art and architecture to contemporary history.

Tinged with a retro 60s atmosphere, their

offer isn’t just based around Polish and English-language reading material, and extends further into quirky gifts and black/ white photos that capture the era.

Super Salon ul. Chmielna 10, supersalon.org Filled with beautiful titles, Super Salon dedicates itself to books, magazines and albums covering weighty subject matter such as photography, design, erotica and architecture. Represented publishers include Phaidon, Gestalten and Steidl.

fashion Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Balthazar ul. Mokotowska 64 (Plac Trzech Krzyży), balthazar.pl An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728. di Trevi Boutique ul. Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestige brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic interior that exudes luxury.

Dream Nation ul. Kopernika 8/18, dreamnation.pl Founded in 2011, Dream Nation is a label committed to sustainable fashion. Find colorful dresses and original prints spruced up by the designer’s wild, personal twist. All garments are made using organic cotton.

EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years.

A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories.

Frank A ul. Natolińska 3, franka.pl The interior is painfully chic and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major www.warsawinsider.pl

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BAG THAT!

In 2009 Swedish expat Mikael Malton joined forces with Jan Kielman, a Warsaw-based leather workshop and store with a history dating to the 19th century. Specializing in bespoke bags and accessories, the resulting collaboration, Malton & Kielman, has gained widespread recognition for its bold ideas and impeccable finishes: none more so than their 2016 ‘Tattoo’ collection…

WI: What is your approach to producing luxury products?

MM: I wouldn’t call us luxury in the typical sense of the word. Our products certainly don’t stick out in the same way as traditional luxury items. We offer something more discerning and discreet. I’d say in this way our style is more influenced by the British and Italian way of doing things. When you look at the UK and Italy, both countries have a great tradition of craftsmanship that oozes with style and quality; these are certainly inspirations we like to mix into our own identity.

Our products place a real emphasis on the craft of leather. We’re very keen on maintaining traditions and I think that’s why we differ from more mainstream luxury brands.

To us, luxury is more about creating quality bags that will last for generations.

Where did the idea for Tattoo come from?

Even though we have a heritage that stretches back to 1883 we always look to create something new. With the Tattoo range we wanted to reach another level of personalization; to create something that went beyond clients just choosing their own leather. I think we’ve achieved that by offering the public the chance to tattoo their own bag.

Did you ever see forging ahead with Tattoo as a risk?

Tattooing leather required a considerable amount of experimentation with regards to establishing which leather to use. But the concept itself never seemed in doubt: once we came up with the original idea we believed strongly in it. Of course, when releasing a new collection you never really know what the market’s reaction will be, but the feedback has been positively surprising.

Explain the tattoos…

There are so many great motifs that deserve to be inked. We like to think about figures and legends that you perhaps wouldn’t consider getting inked onto your own skin but would work on something that you’re not permanently attached to.

For instance, we have the Warsaw mermaid, Medusa and Pegasus in the range - even Jimi Hendrix.

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What do you think your bags say?

They’re a form of expression and a powerful way of reflecting what a customer likes. For example, one client got his family portrait tattooed inside a wallet. Another had jazz musician John Coltrane tattooed onto his bag. And we recently made a bag for Quincy Jones on which he got a tattoo of another music legend and friend, Clifford Brown. So much like the tattoos you see on somebody’s skin, these are intensely intimate things that allow you a glimpse into someone’s personality.”

Have you ever rejected an idea?

Tattooing a bag is an expensive business so each design is discussed in-depth before we go ahead and execute it. There are times a customer needs a little guidance, but at the end of the day the tattoo design is completely their choice. Generally speaking the project has been immensely fun due to the level of creativity it has involved.

“SO MUCH LIKE THE TATTOOS YOU SEE ON SOMEBODY’S SKIN, THESE ARE INTENSELY INTIMATE DESIGNS”

Who is behind the art?

An old friend of mine from Sweden, Frederik Thorsén, does the inking.

Originally he studied traditional renaissance art in Italy before steadily moving into tattooing.

What work goes into each bag?

First we need to prepare the leather after which it’s sent to Frederik in Sweden. Once he’s completed the tattoo the bag is returned to us for finalization: it needs to be sewn, colorized, and finished with creams and suchlike. In all, the whole process involves three people and takes eight weeks.

Have you seen a growing trend towards the debonair look in Poland?

People are definitely thinking more about style. Quality products create an impact. As more and more people look to establish their own ‘look’, these quality products have become more significant. That doesn’t just apply to Poland though, but the world in general.

What would you say to a desperado looking for style tips?

I’d advise to always start with the shoes because they can really deter

mine your style at a glance. I’d also encourage people to break some dressing rules every now and then to make their style more individual.

Isn’t style all about personality, really? That’s the great thing with bespoke bags: they can really help someone create their own personal style.

What next for Tattoo and what next for Malton & Kielman?

The Tattoo range is actually a constantly developing collection, as we try to make every bag one-of-a-

kind by not reproducing exactly the same tattoos twice. The collection is growing organically as both customers and us come up with new ideas. We’re also working on a new project that will be revealed at the start of the year. Although the design is based on the Tattoo bags, I’d say that what we have next in store will be much more minimalistic and discreet.

Malton & Kielman ul. Chmielna 6, maltonkielman.com www.warsawinsider.pl

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1. Silvia Suspension by Vita, from zł. 225 2. Ikono small lamp by Normann Copenhagen, zł. 688 3. Amp Lamp by Normann Copenhagen, zł. 449 4. Chouchin

by Foscarini from zł. 1,249 5.

WAVE LAMP by Studio Snowpuppe zł. 678 6. Cage Mic Suspension Lamp by Diesel, zł. 1,925

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Daylight Savers

With the clocks turned back for daylight savings time (you did remember, didn’t you?), and the emphasis back on home life, the time is right to update your digs with a fancy new timepiece and the right light for winter. Clock a load of these… (available at fabrykaform.pl)

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7. Cage wall clock by Umbra zł. 378 8. Company wall clock by NeXtime from zł. 349 9. Bold wall clock by Normann Copenhagen, zł. 258 10. Dot wall clock by Lemnos, zł. 390 11. Wood Small table clock by NeXtime, zł. 349 12. Classy Round wall clock by NeXtime, zł. 229

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COLLECTION PREVIEW

The latest collection from Anna Krzyzanowska introduces sensuality and femininity to everyday clothing.

The highest quality natural wool, leather, silk and fur have been combined to fit the colors of the golden Polish autumn. Though despite being the must haves of the season, the timeless elegance of Krzyzanowska’s pieces also mean you’ll be taking them out of your wardrobe for years to come.

For further details, see: annakrzyzanowska.pl

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listings / shopping brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Sweeney, perfectly fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch.

L’Aura ul. Mokotowska 26 Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho.

Likus Concept Store ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), likusconceptstore.pl The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Lolly Pop Boutique Al. Jerozolimskie 169 lok 45A (C.H. Blue City, level 1), lollypop.pl Latest fashion from See

by Chloe, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Melissa, UnitedNude, Bronx and many more.

For online shopping, check: sklep.lollypop.pl Madox ul. Browarna 4, madoxdesign.com Best known for the baggy crotched trousers that took Warsaw by storm a couple of years back, Damian Nowacki’s fashion store juxtaposes urban street casual against unisex ideas.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com Brands: Alexandre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Anya Hindmarch, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

Mostrami.pl mostrami.pl Known to insiders as the ‘Polish Net-a-porter’, the online Mostrami portal showcases a whole breed of Polish fashion talent: Blessus, Justyna Chrabelska, Łukasz Jemioł, and Zuo Corp, as well as the rock stars of the local scene such as Kupisz, Zień and Plich. Around 100 designers to choose from,

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with prices straddling the wide spectrum of purchasing power.

Pan Tu Nie Stal Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit.

Pinko Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, Nowy Świat 1, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), pinko.it Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Dsquared 2, Christian Louboutin, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, Mr& Mrs Italy, One Teaspoon, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. Childrenswear: Burberry Children, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), robertkupisz.com One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner.

Redford and Grant Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, redfordandgrant.pl This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada.

Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Sabotage ul. Burakowska 5/7 Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo.

Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique. Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200?

Sen Nocy Letniej ul. Oleandrów 5A, sennocyletniej.pl A perfume concept store in which the sacred meets the profane. Sophisticated yet wearable scents are crafted using traditional methods and are displayed alongside luxurious cosmetics and aromatic candles. These are products that connect soul the spirit, mind and body.

Teresa Rosati Al. Witosa 31 (Panorama), teresarosati.com. pl Elegant cocktail dresses, gowns for special occasions and beautiful fabrics from one of Poland’s best-known designers. Ready-towear and custom-made services at discreet location in Sadyba by appointment.

Van Thorn ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 243 7377, vanthorn. pl Bespoke and made-to-measure suits as well as custom-made shirts and a range of accessories from ties and pocket squares down to shoes and cufflinks. The attention to detail, the quality and craftsmanship are staggering.

Viola Śpiechowicz ul. Kolejowa 55 (Łomianki), vsstore.eu/ violaspiechowicz.com Viola Spiechowicz is an inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative fashion designer who has cultivated her own original and inimitable style since

listings / shopping her 1992 debut. Her designs are the result of a long search for the perfect form, texture and color scheme, lending each project its own unique style: be it fashion, upholstery fabrics or accessory design.

Wake Up The Bear ul. Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz. Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes.

Wearso.organic ul. Boya- Żeleńskiego 2, wearso.com If you love extravagant forms and monochromes this is the place is for you. Designers use only natural materials. Aside from clothes and fashion accessories you’ll also find several items for home.

Zaremba ul. Nowogrodzka 15, zaremba-krawiec.pl Originally inspired by the Savile Row style, Zaremba have been fitting out gentlemen of

Warsaw since 1898. Under Maciej Zaremba, the brand has moved forward to take into account global trends while also respecting its past. Bespoke jackets start from zł. 5,900.

home 3F Studio ul. Nowolipki 28b, 3fstudio.com.pl Offers furnishings and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide.

The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients.

Apteka Sztuki Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5 Apteka Sztuki is an art gallery that features collections by up-andcoming contemporary artists, preferring promising unknowns to big names. The exhibits, which rotate on a monthly basis, include a variety of media created by artists from all over Europe (although the focus is on Poland).

Ceylon Bazaar ul. Ząbkowska 27/31 (Koneser Factory) A remarkable collection of refurbished antiques, PRL gadgets, posters, T-shirts, handmade bags, etc. It’s an astonishing assembly of raw kitsch and cool bits and pieces. In their words: “pop in and become the owner of completely useless but indispensable things!”

Cotton Ball Lights ul. Chmielna 27/31, cottonballlights.pl Offering 40 different varieties and colors of cotton-wrapped bulbs, these simple lights stand to transform your living space with their soft, gentle glow. Highly adaptable, and capable of slotting into any context, overhauling the whole mood of your home has never been easier…

Coqlila ul. Lentza 20 (Wilanów), coqlila.pl Home products with a marked provincial French style. Among the offer are fabrics, fragrances, furniture and kitchenware.

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listings / shopping Dado Design ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), dadodesign.pl ‘Beauty, modernity and functionality’. It’s on these foundations Dado’s philosophy is built.

Touting brands such as Bruhl, Gaber, Slide and Infiniti, this design store carries pieces chosen for their style and originality. Find it all from sofas and tables to picture frames and salt shakers. Your flat will thank you.

Galeria 2 Deco ul. Wilcza 71, 2deco.pl A small yet concise collection of brilliant home furnishings that combine the classic with contemporary at fair prices. Special orders and consulting also available.

Le Pukka ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver.

noon/noon ul. Pańska 98, noonnoon.pl Well-balanced as a coffee bar / showroom where you can interact and experience the functionality and quality of the furniture first hand.

Pies Czy Suka ul. Szpitalna 8A, piesczysuka.com Husband and wife team Beata Konarska and Paweł Konarski push the boundaries of creativity in a home design store that’s heavy with statement pieces: life sized moldings of animals, illuminated Jesus statues, edgy art, etc.

graffiti, this shop is filled with unconventional keepsakes that include canvas prints, Warsaw-themed mugs and one-of-a-kind postcards.

malls & department stores Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, arkadia.com.pl Atelier Mokotowska 63 ul. Mokotowska 63 Four levels of high end fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini, Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all represented.

Intimate, discreet and above all luxurious.

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, galeriamokotow.com.pl

Lipova Showroom ul. Lipowa 7A, lipova.pl Products from Bolon, Vitra and Philips take center stage in Lipova, an edgy store that will reinvent your home / office. From Bolon, find unique 3D flooring, from Vitra, modern Swiss furniture pieces and from Philips, Lumiblade OLEDs and other innovative lights.

Reset Point ul. Puławska 48 sklep.resetpoint.pl A treasure trove of renovated antique furniture, vinyl clocks, 70s style handle-less PRL mugs and modern art prints of legendary landmarks such as Dworzec Centralny and the Palace of Culture. Plenty of pieces and curios from upcoming and established domestic design studios.

Magazyn Praga ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), magazynpraga. pl A visit to this home design store is guaranteed to transform your apartment.

Showcasing emerging Polish talent, the items here are not without humor: ceramic French bulldogs are particularly popular.

The Warsaw-themed photo montages by artist Katarzyna Osipowicz are riveting, and a surefire conversation starter.

Secret Life (of Things) ul. Dąbrowskiego 15A, secretlife.pl An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. And it’s the multi-colored tins that greet you at the door, all of them crying out ‘drink me’. Check the prestigious porcelain by Kristoff, stock up on Madara cosmetics, or snap up a pair of handmade shoes.

Maison Creative Mokotowska 45, maisoncreative.com.pl Deck out your pad in flouncy French style with simply extraordinary furniture from the Mis en Demeure brand. If you really want to push the boat out, then the interior design solutions of Dorota Kowalczyk are inspired.

SH Studio ul. Wilcza 44, s-h-studio.pl Art, interior design and furniture are married together inside a tiny store stacked with beautiful antique and retro pieces that have been refurbished and redesigned to lend them a contemporary edge. An amazing place with surprisingly modest prices.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13.

Wawa Bla Bla ul. Dobra 15 A gift store with a difference: showcasing the working of Poland’s upcoming ‘street artists’, not to mention the British proprietor’s own photos of Warsaw’s

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.

Makutra ul. Oleandrów 5, makutra.com To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware.

Nap ul. Mysia 3 This two floor shop is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist. Downstairs there’s a broader selection of bed frames, couches and mattresses.

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Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500 klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, mysia3.pl Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more.

family activities Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

Fundacja Atelier ul. Foksal 11, 22 826 8813 or 22 826 9589, open Mon-Fri 10:00- 20:00, Sat 9:30-20:30, atelier.org.pl Situated in an atmospheric 19th century building this foundation organizes affordable/flexible workshops to develop and inspire art education and creative skills (painting/drawing/sculpture/art history) for children, young people and adults.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

THE KID-FRIENDLY DEBATE

I was once waiting to board a plane back to New York when a baby started howling as its mother picked it up. The guy next to me puffed loudly and announced it was time kid-free flights became a reality. While I nodded in acceptance out of casual courtesy, I walked back thinking what a douchebag thing to say. We are all in this thing together and kids are a part of some people’s lives as much as dogs, stinky food or extra check-in bags are for others. I mentioned this to my wife some time later and she acknowledged his douche-baggery with an additional piece of information: not only are airlines proposing child-free flights, but some restaurants are thinking of following suit in the US and UK. Frankly, the thought of kid-free restaurants horrifies me. My wife and I love eating out as much as we love taking our daughter with us. While I understand the political problems relating to babies in restaurants, the idea that kids should be banned outright is crass and inhumane.

Neither do I understand why I should limit myself to those places that specifically flag themselves as ‘kid-friendly’. Part of the point of eating out is to enjoy foods you would otherwise not be able to make at home, it’s also about learning and exploring new tastes and sensations. The benefits of taking children to restaurants are manifold, but there’s also a kickback for restaurants as well: by teaching kids to appreciate food, they are building for a future and doing their own bit to sustain the culture necessary for restaurants to flourish. With this in mind, I’m thrilled that a core of Warsaw restaurants are doing their bit: Santorini, Shoku, Der Elefant, Bibenda, Rusiko, Mąka i Woda. All these and more are playing a far-sighted game, one that could ultimately benefit all. High time they got the recognition for it. (KD)

Gym Generation ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Centrum Olimpijskie, floor 4), tel. 502 092 695, gymgeneration.pl A professionally developed curriculum that offers your child a range of experiences, providing new and exciting activities each time and engaging them in physical challenges, a variety of games and team puzzles. There’s a maximum of 15 kids to a class, with one instructor for every five children.

Guitar Classes Tel. 732 860 825, arekniezgoda@hotmail. com Private guitar lessons either at your place or in a private studio in Wilanów.

Classic, acoustic and electric guitar taught by Arek, a 35-year old teacher who covers most styles from classic to pop/rock. Previous work experience includes teaching in private music schools in California and at The British School of Warsaw. Both kids and adults are welcome.

Hangar 646 ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl Children with excessive energy levels should head to Hangar 646. Located in a former airport hangar, the 2,700 sq/m of trampoline space includes a swimming pool of sponges.

Children from three years old are welcome www.warsawinsider.pl

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BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE LITTLE GYM

POWIŚLE WONDERLAND

It’s not only tots and toddlers that thrive at The Little Gym. More than just a place for kids to burn off energy, Warsaw’s most versatile family spot includes an attractive basement area complete with a Batida patisserie and cafe and a playroom for munchkins outfitted with a climbing wall: watch the kids’ disappear into its depths and then sit back with coffee and a paper for some parental downtime. Then there’s Atelier Powiśle, a multi-purpose function room used for art and theater workshops, the organized chaos that is a child’s birthday party and, even, the occasional press conference. The Little Gym ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 45, thelittlegym.eu

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listings / family to let off steam, with instructors available to teach acrobatics and suchlike; or you can just bounce off walls!

The Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56 & ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 45, tel. 22 842 0728, thelittlegym.eu Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

Mums & Tots mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless.

For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web.

Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 9600,

open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00, zacheta.art.pl Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

education preschools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through ageappropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our

school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.

JOIN US FOR 1 DECEMBER 3:30 - 6:30 P.M. Płyćwiańska 14a

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listings / family pl, thebritishschool.pl The Early Years Foundation Stage is where a lifetime of learning begins. The British School, Warsaw provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old).

Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000 all children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School

have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

International Trilingual School of Warsaw ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, and formerly known as Ecole Antoine de Saint Exupery, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French.

Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China.

(multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu. pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini

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The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:0016.00, theenglishplayhouse.com The English

Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów.

The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:15, ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The

listings / family school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate.

Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits

enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool.pl, thebritishschool.pl Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Programme.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu.pl Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School are set to open their Erdkinder Montessori Middle School as of September 2016. Located at Tatrzańska 5A they promise an extraordinary opportunity for study, work and for daily living. Guided

warsaw montessori school

by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges.

The English Primary ul. Rzodkiweki 18, tel. 784 037 808, jnowak@tep.edu.pl ul. Rzodkiweki 18, tel. 784 037 808, jnowak@tep.edu.pl The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. The school is a member of Council of British International Schools (COBIS).

The Canadian School of Warsaw Elementary School ul. Bełska 7, tel.

692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, canadian-school.pl

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School accepting applications

for all our locations and programs: Infant & Toddler: age 1-2.5, Casa: age 2.5-6 Contact Ela: tel. 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl Elementary: age 6-9, 9-12 Contact Sylvia: tel. 606 276 112 sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Warszawa: Szwoleżerów 4, Badowska 19, Tatrzańska 5a, Izabelin-Hornówek: Szkolna 16

"Erdkinder" Middle School: age 12-15 Contact Małgosia: tel. 604 137 826 malgosia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

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listings / family The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Middle School ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 885 420 044 / 885 620 066, secretary.olimpijska@canadianschool.pl, canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of PREIB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email. Also home to the Non-Public Psycho-Pedagogical Counseling Centre ‘Olimpia’ (tel. 885 620 066) which examines the level of mental, emotional, auditory and visual-motor functions’ development, and conducts individual and group pedagogical therapy, as well as individual psychotherapy..

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International Trilingual School of Warsaw ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, and formerly known as Ecole Antoine de Saint Exupery, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China.

Willy Brandt Schule Warschau Św. Urszuli Ledóchowskiej 3, tel. 22 642 2705, wbs.pl One of the city’s best renowned schools offers a kindergarten as well as primary and secondary education conducted to a German curriculum.

shops Kopytko Mamuta ul. Boya-Żeleńskiego 2, kopytkomamuta.pl The creation of Kopytko Mamuta plugs a gap in the market, with beautifully cobbled shoes that are, in the words of the owner Agnieszka,

‘the essence of Parisian chic’. Specializing in trendy kicks from the likes of Mercredi Apres Midi, it’s the ultimate spoiler for your budding style maven and her little Prince Charming.

Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, muppetshop.pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects. On top of that expect a wealth of other design products (kitchen accessories, decorations, toys, bags, books etc.) from carefully selected brands.

Pieluszkarnia ul. Topiel 12, ul. Mandalińskiego 25, tel. 22 713 8275, pieluszkarnia.pl This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and personalized Martello blankets for birth.

Rebel Angel ul. Klimczaka 13 (Miasteczko Wilanów), tel. 501 541 038, rebelangel.pl The draw here is a wide offer of Mayoral clothing, a Spanish brand that has outfitted the children of Ronaldo and the Spanish royal family.

Priding themselves on their level of service, Rebel Angel has become the one-stop shop for those looking to dress their kids.

health & beauty gyms

Artis Wellness Club ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub. pl And so here we have a contender for Warsaw’s best gym. Found in Royal Wilanów, this state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. Personal training and deluxe spa facilities also available.

SQUASH SILVA SPORT (ul. Puławska 531, silvasport.pl) Although tennis is the principal sport of choice at Silva (ten courts with clay, hard and artificial surfaces), visitors also heap praise on the two ASB squash courts. Prices range from zł. 45 to zł. 60 per hour.

SINNET CLUB (ul. Gołkowska 2, sinnet.pl) Enjoying a reputation as Warsaw’s most exclusive sports club, Sinnet has three ASB squash courts to ensure optimum playing conditions. In addition to squash, this members-only club has a 25-meter pool, gym facilities, four full-size indoor tennis courts and two external courts.

SQUASH CITY (Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (Blue City) & ul. Malborska 51/53, squashcity. pl) Book your court online and then either rent by the hour (from zł. 40 upwards) or buy a longer-term pass. Courts are air-conditioned and both clubs stage regular competitions and cups as well as offering classes for all age and skill levels (both group and individual).

SQUASH ODLEWNICZA 7 (ul. Odlewnicza 7, odlewnicza7.pl) Prices from zł. 40 per hour, with 10-visit cards available from as little as zł. 350. The club has five courts, a fully-equipped store, training options for 1-3 people as well as what they claim is the largest squash league on the right side of Warsaw.

KAHUNA (ul. Zawodzie 26, kahuna.com.pl) Spread over 2,000 sq/m, Kahuna have eight squash courts, three badminton courts and two table tennis tables. Prices begin at zł. 40 per hour, with 4- and 8-hour passes also available from zł. 150 to zł. 280.

Pr1me Fitness & Wellness at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning.

Holmes Place Energy ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www.holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland.

Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern www.warsawinsider.pl

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BROUGHT TO YOU BY QUANTUM

The New You

RESTORE AND REPLENISH BOTH MIND AND BODY IN QUANTUM CLINIC, A LUXURY AESTHETIC CLINIC AND MEDICAL SPA THAT’S JUST MOVED THE BAR HIGHER…

VISION

Quantum Clinic was founded with the intention of setting new standards with regards to full-spectrum skin and body care using the latest technological advances and an emphasis on patient safety: to deliver superior patient results in an inviting, contemporary environment.

MISSION

Karolina Tomys and her staff are committed to providing comprehensive and unparalleled aesthetic medicine care in a welcoming and engaging environment. Quantum seeks to make each patient experience unique by combining superior patient safety and privacy standards when treating dermatological and cosmetic concerns. We strive to combine state of the art medicine with the latest advances in research and technology when formulating individualized treatment plans to achieve unique, desired, and aesthetically-pleasing results.

QUANTUM HIGHLIGHTS

For body slimming and firming we recommend the ThermiSmooth® treatment. It can also be used for non-invasive face and eyelid lifts. Gentle heating using temperaturecontrolled radiofrequency energy stimulates collagen re-

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modeling. ThermiSmooth® Body is performed by targeting the areas under the skin, providing a reduction of cellulite from the eyes to thighs. There are a series of treatments that take around 6-8 weeks which patients often liken to receiving a warm massage.

Cellulite and localized fat reduction, stretch marks (striae), acne scars, skin laxity and wrinkle reduction are the most common aesthetic indications for treatment with Carboxytherapy. Treatments are generally performed on the face, neck, arms, abdomen and thighs. Carboxytherapy uses a series of small injections with a thin needle attached to a tube which delivers tiny quantities of medical grade carbon dioxide below the skin’s surface in a controlled flow and dose via a specially designed machine.

As an alternative to traditional laser skin resurfacing we highly recommend ClearLift™, formerly known as Pixel QSwitch. It is a comfortable and non-ablative protocol. Using 1064 Q-Switched laser technology, patients enjoy fast, effective treatments with visible results and no downtime.

Alma’s technology delivers a controlled dermal wound without harming the overlying epidermis. Therefore, all stages of healing and skin repair occur under the intact epidermis. Because ClearLift heats deep beneath the skin (up to 3mm in depth) no numbing is required prior to the

BROUGHT TO YOU BY QUANTUM

treatment and all skin healing happens without damaging the outer layer of skin.

Aesthetic gynecology is currently one of the most rapidly developing medical specializations in the world. Aesthetic gynecology improves the woman’s physical and mental wellbeing, increases their sense of attractiveness and restores psychological comfort. Among the most popular non-invasive aesthetic gynecology procedures are labial reduction, vaginoplasty and vaginal rejuvenation. At our clinic we offer treatments performed with the use of a FOTONA laser, which is the market leader in the production and development of the most advanced laser systems in the world.

TECHNOLOGIES

Harmony Pro XL Laser Fotona 4D Spectra Laser Pollogen Fractional RF Surgeon Endermologia LPG

Quantum

Thermi Smooth LED Light Therapy Carboxytherapy Soprano Ice – Painless Hair

Removal

ul.Piękna 15 Warsaw klinika@quantumpiekna.pl, quantumpiekna.pl, tel. +48 885 580 053; +48 22 115 3879

“Our mission is to always adopt a completely individualized approach that best meets each client’s needs. We wish to help you pursue your dreams, expectations, and desires. The Quantum Clinic Team prepares for you a long-term individual treatment plan based on the knowledge and experience of our aesthetic medicine physicians, cosmetologists, and state-of-the-art technology.

Of no lesser importance to us is that everyone who visits our clinic feels relaxed and refreshed afterwards. Our holistic approach to the patient is key: our goal is to keep you looking beautiful for years to come!

Your precious time is combined with our energy and commitment to produce that perfect, youthful appearance you have always dreamed of. All you need to do is entrust yourself in the hands of our aesthetic medicine professionals: that is, aesthetic dermatologists, cosmetologists and bodycare specialists, who, guided by a holistic approach to the patient, will offer you a range of options. We will motivate you to apply the necessary changes in your lifestyle and fix what has been neglected.

We will examine your skin problems with care and precision, and offer a range of modern treatments designed with you in mind that will improve the condition of both your skin and body.

And all that will take place in an exclusive, safe environment, where the privacy and comfort of the patient are treated with utmost respect and reverence.” - Karolina Tomys (co-owner) www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Englishspeaking, as well.

McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month.

Quantum Fitness ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl Snuck to the side of a glamorous slab of residential new build, Quantum takes the keep fit business to new levels. A place of quiet, understated luxury, equipment is state-ofthe-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience.

Ride Warsaw ul. Karolkowa 30, ridewarsaw.com Around twice a day this small studio opens up to the public with group cycling classes overseen by a team of English-speaking instructors. This is not a leisurely Sunday pedal, but a high energy workout with a banging soundtrack and constant interaction with the trainer in charge.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a

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complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

dental clinics Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

DeClinic ul. Bernardyńska 16A, tel. 22 112 0400, declinic.pl Regarded as one of the most modern clinics in Europe, amongst other innovations DeClinic have swapped the traditional drilling process in favor of abrasive sandblaster – perfect for kids or those afraid of the dentist.

Odent ul. Nowoursynowska 145E (entry from ul.

Rosoła) & ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 405 4430, odent.pl Dubbed ‘the clinic with a heart’, Odent’s personal approach is complimented by expert staff and the latest and most advanced treatments and equipment.

English-speaking service also available.

spas & salons Bali Spa ul. Nowy Świat 22, bali-spa.pl Let the Balinese therapists pamper you with authentic Balinese and Thai massages, full body rituals, facials, hot stone treatments, etc. inside sensual interiors filled with the mystical spirit of the East.

Barberian Academy & Barber Shop ul. Emilii Plater 25 Away from the black clouds of metrosexuality, Barberian is where men gather to celebrate being men. Lauded as the local champion of male grooming, this stand out has a rebel chic layout and barbers who are experts in their field.

Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.”

BROUGHT TO YOU BY SANTE STUDIO CITY SPA

ul. Jagiellońska 55A, Warsaw An address worth remembering!

A SPA & Wellness centre inspired by the wisdom of nature: it’s unique on a European scale!

S

tudio Sante City Spa is an exclusive wellness and therapeutic space in the heart of the Polish capital. The relaxing music, dim lights and intimate ambiance of the clubstyle interiors create an unforgettable atmosphere of a place emanating positive energy.

This is the only SPA in Poland where Revitalised Water is used in all pools. It also includes one jacuzzi with Himalayan salt and magnesium and one with silicon water. Ganbanyoku is a unique treatment – you can lose up to 1,200 calories within 45-60 minutes spent in this Japanese stone sauna. Goldarium is a rest bay, the only one in Poland lined with 22-carat gold.

Our guests can also use the steam bath with Revitalised Steam Water, a Finnish bio-sauna with aromatherapy, salt chamber, the safe-tanning Sunny Meadow and skin-rejuvenating collagen lamps. Revitalised Water is also available for drinking – free of charge and volume restrictions!

The Beauty Zone offers exclusive rejuvenating treatments: CACI, Yonelle Medesthetic, drepotherapy, relaxing massages and lavish body rituals.

The Treatment Room Zone offers state-of-the-art diagnostic technologies: SCIO, STRD, Tanita, Scenar Cosmodic, and manual therapies: craniosacral, myofascial, reflexology.

The Sante Studio City Spa is definitely a place worth visiting!

POWER MAN

A treatment set for modern men who like to take care of themselves: a relaxing massage alleviates muscle tension in the entire body; sauna rituals, including a peeling in the steam bath with Revitalised Water and steam treatment in a Finnish sauna, stimulate the regenerative processes in the body. They reduce fatigue, and improve the quality of sleep as well as thelibido. The complex regeneration treatments inside Sante Studio are guaranteed to proote relaxation and well-being. POWER MAN is an excellent recreation choice to recharge the batteries with positive energy!

The offer includes: • a relaxation massage • unlimited time in the saunas and Revitalised Water pools • complimentary snacks • free beer!

Yonelle Medestetic – the Secret of Younger-Looking Skin

Yonelle Medestetic are multiphase rejuvenating treatments which immediately improve the condition of the skin. They nurture and replenish its deepest layers. Moreover, they reduce wrinkles and tighten the skin, making it more supple, smooth and soft. They trigger natural regeneration processes that last for weeks after the treatment.

• Infusion Superlift – intensive lifting and wrinkle reduction. Restores the youthful suppleness of the skin, making it moisturised and smooth.

• Progressive Revital – offers a delightful “new skin” effect on your face and hands. Reduces wrinkles and makes the pores less visible.

• H20 Infusion Express – revitalises the skin in a flash. Reduces wrinkles, while making the skin moisturised and supple.

Studio Sante Uzdrowisko Miejskie ul. Jagiellońska 55A, Warsaw tel. 691 603 611, 605 130 152 www.studiosante.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160 or 784 677 618, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-15:00, www.bodyclinic.pl Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414.

A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country.

ouch!

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch! ul. Belwederska 32, 22 240 87 67; ul.

Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 12, ouch.pl Experts in waxing, Ouch! Aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. High quality waxes, including fast and accurate epilation treatments whose effects last up to four weeks. Wax treatments for the whole body.

as the possibility of hosting baby showers and bachelorette parties. Open from 9-8 during the week and 9-5 on Sat (with the Mokotowska branch also welcoming visitors on Sunday from 10-4).

Quantum Clinic ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl Using first class, pioneering methods and technology, the Quantum Clinic surpasses the norms that Warsaw has become used to. For the full Hollywood treatment, restore and replenish the body at a luxury spa devised to enhance the body and mind.

Rostowski Barber Shop ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles.

Sante ul. Jagiellońska 55A, studiosante.pl The dry and wet steam room left the Insider impressed, but not as much as the ‘mood rooms’ – imagine a lunar landscape chamber with a salt-covered floor. The other, meanwhile, comes clad in minerals with recliners hewn from heated tiles. As you stare at the mantra above the mind lets go and you feel almost as if your body is moving. Amazing.

sport O Yes Massage ul. Nowolipki 27, tel. 22 400 11 44, oyes.pl Thai & Balinese massage packaged in a European way. The Thai and Balinese therapists represent the heart of this chilled out spot, while the inexpensive prices (starting from zł.

99) and attentive service mark it out amongst others. Buying four massages upfront earns clients a further discount.

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, tel. 22 240 62 90; Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 10; ul. Mokotowska 56, tel. 22 298 10 10, pardonmyfrench.pl Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! Free wifi and coffee, as well

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Hangar 646 ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl So named due to its previous incarnation as a place where aeroplanes sleep, Hangar 646 touts 50 interlinked trampolines, a ping pong zone, ball pools and even a snowboard slide where visitors hurtle down a ramp before splashing down on an inflatable mattress.

Hash House Harriers Billing themselves as ‘the drinking club with a running problem’, the Warsaw chapter of the Hash House Harriers meets every couple of weeks and welcomes runners and walkers of every level. Post-run drinks are part of the attraction. Search for them on Facebook for further details and await further instruction from their overlord, ‘The Witch Doctor’.

Squash City Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (Blue City), tel. 22 499 6466, squashcity.pl Considered one of the

top squash clubs in the country, Squash City covers an area of 1,000 sq/m, with six air-conditioned courts, shop, bar, etc.

Warsaw International Triathlon Club warsawtriclub.com Serving the needs of the athletic community, the WITC is open to all interested in the disciplines of swimming, cycling and running. For more details, check: warsawtriclub.comľ

yoga & pilates Bikram Yoga Al. Jana Pawła II 61 lok. 305, tel. 888 204 020 A new, modern studio equipped with lockers, showers and the requisite hot room.

Practitioners of all levels – from newbie to old hand – are welcome.

Diamond Pilates ul. Powsińska 106, tel. 22 331 4495 The first professional Pilates studio in Poland continues to be the pacesetter. Offers group and individual training, the latest equipment, dietary consultations and workshops for instructors.

Padma Studio ul. Wilcza 32/100, tel. 22 625 1217, padmastudio.pl A 60 sq/m studio offering classes in dynamic yoga, Afro Latin dance, Samba, Tai Chi and body / mind awareness.

Pilates (Private Classes) Tel. 608 499 666. A private studio in Wilanów with classes for one to four people that guarantee 100% attention from Laura, your instructor.

Yoga Medica ul. Racławicka 28, tel. 22 409 0354, yogamedica.pl Using hatha yoga as the basis, the individualized approach to exercise comes from the founder’s background as a physiotherapist. Tailor-made programs ideal for those recovering from injury or health issues.

Yoga Republic ul. Śniadeckich 18 lok. 1, tel. 790 805 853, This studio combines the old school with the new, plus a nice dash of prewar charm with a touch of the east. Yoga Republic offers classes for pregnant women in addition to a full schedule of four other types of yoga to suit experience and expectations (Mysore, Ashtanga, Vinyasa and Beginner’s).

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

in the city

ON INSTAGRAM #warsawinsider

If the temperature has cooled, then at least Warsaw’s hasn’t. For your daily dose of hot city happenings, join us on Instagram and discover the quirky side of the Polish capital.

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listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

4-Star Hotels

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.com.pl Hampton by Hilton ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl

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Hotel Reytan ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www. warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc.

MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

B&B

Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu

Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com

Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www.bedandbreakfast.pl

Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com

Chmielna Guesthouse ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, www.chmielnabb.pl

Warsaw Plaza Hotel ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, www. warsawplazahotel.pl

car rental

3-Star Hotels

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl Castle Inn Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl Golden Tulip ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500.

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, www.hiexpress.com

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl

Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000

Avis tel. 22 572 6565, Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel.

22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul.

Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360.

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, www.sixt.pl Trust Rent a Car ul. Marynarska 14, tel. 22 843 0580, www. trustrentacar.pl

listings / in the city useful numbers Foreign Assistance Tel. 608 599 999 / 22 278 7777 Information in English, German and Russian available from June 1st to September 30th from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. seven days a week.

Tourist Information ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (airport), Rynek Starego Miasto 19/21/21A, Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel. 22 194 31, warsawtour.pl

RESIDENTS relocation companies Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com

relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.).

services Domestina domestina.pl New to Warsaw, Domestina offer four-hour maid solutions ranging from zł. 129-142. Offering full premium service, they’ll make your bed to match the standard of a five-star hotel, and clean every corner till your flat is spotless! Order and pay online via their English-language website.

storage Więcej Miejsca Tel. 733 002 014, wiecejmiejsca.pl/en Offers innovative, convenient, door-to-door storage & moving services. Order via their website or phone and the company’s driver will deliver sturdy plastic, tamper-proof bins for storing items such as clothes, books, documents, etc.

They’ll also store larger items, including furniture, and organize local, national and international moves.

polish for foreigners

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, www.interdean.com Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

Relo Planet ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet.com International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual

Cup of Polish cupofpolish.com, tel. 508 700 508 Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com

community Anglican Church in Warsaw ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 62, tel.

880 580 628, anglicanchurch.pl English language services follow the order of the services of the Anglican Communion and are conducted by Rev. David Brown. Services are

held each Sunday at 10:30 and 16:00.

International Christian Fellowship ul. Puławska 326, icfwarsaw.org Interdenominational services in English (10:30am, Sunday). Facilities, programs and community activities for all ages: children, students and adults.

InterNations internations.org Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s social and corporate circuit, their monthly meetings have become Must Do events on schedules round town.

International Women’s Group of Warsaw iwgwarsaw.eu Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are held on the second and fourth Monday of the month.

Professionals in Warsaw meetup.com/Professionals-in-Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted

by Professionals in Warsaw. Natives and foreigners of all backgrounds and professions are welcomed – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. Search for them on facebook.

St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year.

Taste of the Classics www.fnok.pl A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations.

The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English.

Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine.

Toastmasters International www.toastmasters.org.pl Toastmasters is the international organization for improving public speaking and presentation skills. The local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00.

Guests are always welcome without any obligation apart from a short introduction. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / in the city museums Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroquestyle castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion and one of the city’s top secrets.

The Heritage Interpretation Center ul. Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl Beginning with a gigantic tapestry of Warsaw circa 1873, this little known venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction. Walking over a glass floor, beneath which lies smashed masonry and columns recovered from the ruins, a series of then-and-now slides and pictures document Old Town’s annihilation. If the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination

is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed.

saw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past.

Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, mhw.pl The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film that details the depressing story behind the destruction of Warsaw.

Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before.

Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, his last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Invisible Exhibition Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar.

Jewish Historical Institute ul. Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in War-

Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, lazienki-krolewskie.pl Situated in the picturesque park which once housed the residence of King Stanisław August this museum includes paintings and furniture from one of the most glorious periods in Poland’s history, as well as temporary exhibitions of more modern work.

Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, legia.com Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 70’s super star Kazimierz Deyna.

Museum of Communist Life ul. Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), tel.

606 225 525, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life

Get 12 issues for the price of 6 (60 zł) WARSAWPASS & CHOPINPASS Valid for 24, 48 and 72-hour periods, the Warsaw Pass enables holders to hop on and off a bus ploughing the main tourist routes, as well as free entry (and the ability to ‘skip the line’) to numerous attractions including Polin, the PKiN viewing platform, Royal Castle, Copernicus Science Centre and many more besides. Discounts for tours and restaurants are also part of the package.

For full details, see: warsawpass.com

SUBSCRIBE AND SAVE! Email: insider@warsawinsider.pl

108 Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2016

Also, be sure to pick up the ChopinPASS, a package that includes admission to the Chopin Museum and to the birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin in Żelazowa Wola, as well as direct transportation between these two institutions. For details, see: ChopinPass.com

listings / in the city brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family. A must see!

the park consists of only eight 1:25 scale models of some of the most beautiful and important buildings from Warsaw’s past, the zł. 12 admission is certainly worth it. Brilliant details abound in this Lilliputian world, with helpful English explanations accompanying the models.

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical interwar Jewish Warsaw street.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26 What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation.

Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16 With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those

by Dali and Warhol.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city.

Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

Park Miniatur ul. Bracka 25 (Dom Jabłońskich, level -1), pl.miniaturymazowieckie.com Although

The Warsaw Amber Museum Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co Part of Bursztynek, a dedicated amber shop, has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. For panoramic views of Warsaw check the view tower.

Wola Museum ul. Srebrna 12, mhw.pl An unexpectedly amazing museum that’s been turned around thanks to its ambitious, young staff.

Once a dank, dusty space, the reinvention includes ‘the room of one object’, whose single exhibit changes each month. There’s the New Varsovians exhibition, dedicated to the young students who arrived to Warsaw in the 1860s and 70s, and the Wola Laboratory, a multimedia exhibition with a focus on the district.

Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera.

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

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Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

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www.warsawinsider.pl

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Soul Dance

As the people of Warsaw descend on the city’s graveyards to celebrate All Saints’ Day, we take a look at the story behind the local burial plots… BY STUART DOWELL

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hey cover hundreds of hectares of the city and shout with a louder voice about Warsaw’s rich, multi-cultural and multi-faith past than any museum or institution. Warsaw’s cemeteries are a repository of great art, sculpture and beauty and are best appreciated on foggy, early-November evenings, embraced by the warm flames of remembrance candles.

The city’s dead were not always taken to the cemetery for burial. The rich would be slotted into catacombs under parish churches, while the less affluent would make do with a plot in an adjacent graveyard. Only prostitutes, criminals, beggars and… actors(!) were interred outside the city. Over time, a greater awareness of the cause of disease and complaints by residents about the fetid stench rising from fresh graves prompted the city’s aldermen to find new accommodation for the recently departed. Świętokrzyski Cemetery opened for business in 1783 on land acquired from the Koszyki manor on a plot enclosed by today’s

112 Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2016

Marszałkowska, Nowogrodzka, Emilii Plater and Wspólna streets.

Not everyone was pleased.

Outraged mourners are said to have dug up their relatives at night and dumped them outside the Holy Cross church on Krakowskie Przedmieście, believing that burials outside the city were an impiety. When it closed in 1836, memorial stones from the catacombs were used to build the walls of St. Barbara’s church, which stands on the site today, and it is said that the bones of those who were buried still remain to the east of the church on the stretch of land that runs up to Marszałkowska.

To handle the needs of the growing population, a cemetery was laid out in Powązki in 1792 on a 2-hectare plot. Now covering 48 hectares, Powązki is Warsaw’s premier burial site and holds the remains of around one million souls, including many well-known and eminent Poles: soldiers, writers, poets, scholars, artists, philosophers, doctors, lawyers, industrialists and clergy. To the west lies the Military Cemetery, which can be read like a book of Polish tragedies with memorial sites for the victims of Katyń, the Warsaw Uprising and the post-war security ministry as well as a special area memorialising the Smoleńsk tragedy unveiled earlier this year.

Acting as witnesses to Warsaw’s multi-cultural past are two protestant cemeteries to the south of Powązki and the Muslim cemetery to the west, and of course the Jewish cemetery. Locked in an eternal embrace by an almost kilometre-long wall with its Christian sibling, it is the second largest kirkut in Poland, the largest being in Łódź, and holds the remains of around 200,000 of Warsaw’s Jews.

Bródno Cemetery in Praga is Warsaw’s largest. With around 1.2 million souls covering an area of 113 hectares, it is one of the largest burial sites in Europe. But the most tragic interment site must be the Uprising Cemetery in Wola, which holds the mass graves of Warsaw’s citizens who were murdered and burned in the first days of the struggle.

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

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