Warsaw Insider November 2015 #231

Around Plac Teatralny

Wine Tasting

By The Glass

page 20

Warsaw

page 28

Wine and Food

Pairing

Interview: Ballet Casanova

page 30

page 16

November 11 price zł.10 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

(231)

2015

(VAT 8% included)

IN DEPTH Wine, Arts & Culture

NOVEMBER 2015 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

INFRONT

Opener 7 News 8 Public Art 10 Photography 12 Ballet 16 Fine Arts 18

FEATURES

Plac Teatralny 20 Trends: Ceviche 26 Glassware 28 Wine Pairing 30

2

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

LISTINGS

Restaurants 44 Cafes & Wine Bars 71 Nightlife 76 Shopping 83 Family 86 Health & Beauty 91 In the City 95

REVIEWS

Kopytko Mamuta 32 Merliniego 5 34 La Galerie Parisienne 36 Kieliszki na Próżnej 38

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

PARTNER NEWS

The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers… 40

INBACK

Map 102 Looking Back 104

Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com ey Account Manager K A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Agata Sobkiewicz asobkiewicz@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAFTel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2015 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover In recognition of our recurring themes this issue, our cover artist has plumped for Teatr Wielki as seen through a glass of Blue Nun. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

Things to love about a Polish November? Let me think about that one. But while I do, allow me to reel off a few things to dislike: there’s the annual Nov 11th riot (“I know, let’s celebrate Independence Day by setting fire to our capital!”), the first numbing frosts, and those despondent steel skies that fill everyone with doom. On the heels of an Indian summer and (largely) glorious October, November’s the month when reality sets in: at times, you question what you’re doing here in the first place. Which is why, this issue, we’ve got active and chosen to explore the cultural side of this city: the ballet, the theatre, the fine art and the wine. And hinged around that lot, we’ve taken a deeper look around Pl. Teatralny. Do so yourself and you too stand to discover a city of artistic depth. With a bit of perseverance, it doesn’t take long for Warsaw to rip open her bodice and reveal herself to be wearing a dazzle of color under her grey, somber robe. Enjoy.

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN GIANVITO ROSSI MEN KENZO MARC BY MARC JACOBS MONCLER RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TOM FORD TORY BURCH

BABY DIOR DOLCE&GABBANA KIDS DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

this month...

FILM

Jewish Film Festival 2-8 Nov @ Polin Museum Founded in 2003, the Warsaw Jewish Film Festival was created to reawaken Warsaw’s Jewish past. Growing in scope by the year, this edition of the WJFF will see screenings of narrative and documentary films.

For further info, see: wjff.pl

EXHIBITION

Dinosaurs Live 5 Nov @ National Stadium Running till February, this internationally-acclaimed traveling exhibition presents over 40 life-size dinosaurs!

For further info, see: dinozaurynazywo.pl

FILM

Sputnik Nad Wisłą 5-14 Nov @ Kinoteka & Iluzjon Promoting Russian culture in Poland, the 9th Sputnik Film Festival aims to ‘overcome differences and debunk stereotypes dividing Poles and Russians’. Good luck on that one then.

For info, see: sputnikfestiwal.pl

DANCE

David Morales

One to Watch Nahawa Doumbia Listen to the pentatonic sounds of Southern Mali as interpreted by the beautiful voice of Nahawa Doumbia…

25 Nov, Pardon, To Tu, pl. Grzybowski 12/16

10 Nov, 22:00 @ The View, ul. Twarda 18 The Grammy-winning DJ and producer is the hottest ticket in town this November – they’re all gone to our knowledge so you’ll be relying on foul means to get hold of one.

Tickets: good luck!

RUN

Independence Run 11 Nov, 11:11 @ Al. Jana Pawła II Starting at 11:11, the 26th Independence Day Run follows a 10 kilometer route around north and central Warsaw.

To register see: aktywnawarszawa.waw.pl

COMEDY

Dylan Moran 14 Nov, 19:00 @ Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Irishman Moran is recognized as one of the finest stand-up comedians of recent times, with his numerous achievements including the 1997 Perrier Award at the Edinburgh Fringe, and a pair of BAFTA

4

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

awards for the achingly magnificent sitcom Black Books.

Tickets from zł. 100 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Roisin Murphy 16 Nov, 19:00 @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A Celebrated for her groundbreaking personal style, iconic voice and role in Moloko, Roisin Murpy returned from a hiatus last year with her 2014 album Hairless Toys. Her appearance in Warsaw is long overdue!

Tickets from zł. 120 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Uriah Heep 17 Nov, 20:00 @ Progresja Music Zone, Fort Wola 22 With over 40 million album sales under their belt, to dismiss these rockers as a cult would be an understatement. Aside from their greatest hits, they’ll be playing material from their latest album: a work being released three days after this gig!

Tickets from zł. 110 @ ticketpro.pl

CONCERT

Marcus Miller 18 Nov @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A One of the biggest attractions in modern jazz. Known as one of the top bass guitarists in the world, his Warsaw concert is part of a wider tour to promote sounds from Afrodeezia.

Tickets from zł.180 @ www.ticketpro.pl

CONCERT

Machine Gun Kelly 21 Nov, 20:00 @ Hala Kolo, ul. Obozowa 60 The acclaimed Cleveland rapper arrives in Warsaw with a promise to play material from his 2015 album General Admission.

Tickets from zł. 120 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Zaz

24 Nov, 20:00 @ Hala Kolo, ul. Obozowa 60 Recognizable by her quirky nickname ZAZ and jazzy hit “Je Veux”, this charming French singer will grace Warsaw as part of a promotional tour for her November album, Paris.

Tickets from zł. 160 @ eventim.pl

in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town THE OCTOBER ELECTION IN NUMBERS

39

Billion złoty…

Earmarked for public spending by the new PiS government

2005

The last time…

PiS were in government

1989

The last time…

One party held a majority

242 Seats…

won by PiS

231 Seats…

Needed for a majority LOCAL

ILLUSTRATION BY MARIA MILEŃKO

Kicking Up A Storm

Residents of Warsaw’s Grochów suburb found their neighbourhood in the international spotlight after global news outlets reported on a black-clad ninja roving the streets. Armed with a 19-inch bokken sword, the masked warrior was revealed to be 21-year-old Cezary Roman, a security guard with a lifelong fascination with Japanese culture. Yet despite complaints from startled locals, the police have declared that they won’t be apprehending the ninja anytime soon. “He’s well-known to us,” said a police spokesman, “and he’s not violent.”

In part, this lack of action has been down to the efforts of councillor Damian Paczkowski, who successfully lobbied the mayor to guarantee the ninja’s right to roam. Largely, however, it’s been down to Roman’s acceptance as something of an icon. Speaking to the Daily Mail, one native hailed the ninja as a crime deterrent: “He might not solve crimes,” said Olek Szczepanski, “but I think his presence on the streets stops people from committing them.”

Having first started training at 17 after he was mugged, the self-taught martial arts fanatic has, however, occasionally been called into action. “I’ve been attacked since,” says Roman, “but that time I managed to kick the bastards’ asses – my new sword worked miracles.”

Now with a 3,000 strong Facebook following, the Grochów Ninja is on his way to becoming a fully-fledged Warsaw hero… (AW)

133 Seats…

Won by the outgoing PO party

50

Per cent

Economic expansion under the PO party since 2005

0

Seats…

Won by the Polish communists – the first time since free elections were held. www.warsawinsider.pl

7

bits n’ pieces

PETS

ETIQUETTE

Fundraising attempts are underway to raise finance for Warsaw’s first cat café. Hoping to provide shelter for eight to ten cats, Miau Café aim not just to sell you coffee, but also a cat should you wish! With over half of their zł. 45,000 target raised so far, the November 14 deadline for donations is fast running out – to do your bit check: wspieram.to/miaucafe

President of Poland Andrzej Duda came under fire after it was revealed that the King of Belgium was served a zł. 50 bottle of wine during a state visit to Poland in October. Speaking to Le Soir, the internationally acclaimed sommelier Erich Boschman led the criticism of the decision to serve 2011 Tauzinat l’Hermitage Saint-Émilion Grand Cru at an official banquet. “I don’t have anything against this wine, in fact, it’s good value and good fun to drink,” sniffed Boschman, “but one must remember the occasion, for entertaining the King and Queen of Belgium is not the same as having an old friend around for dinner.” Others, however, have defended Duda, claiming that the choice of wine demonstrated thoughtfulness – not least to the taxpayers footing the bill.

A Cat’s Cradle

Whine & Dine

RESTAURANTS

Blind Spot

Upmarket pizza chain Trattoria Rucola caused outrage after refusing to serve a blind and handicapped guest who tried to enter their Miodowa locale along with his guide dog.

Faced with a furious backlash online, Rucola’s management found themselves forced into a sheepish public apology. With the incident reported in numerous papers, Rucola’s efforts to avoid a complete PR disaster included packing all of their staff off to Warsaw’s Niewidzialna Wystawa – an award-winning exhibition in which visitors learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind.

8

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

PHOTOGRAPH TOP LEFT FACEBOOK, SHUTTERSTOCK, WARSAW INSIDER

inFront

Restaurant DomPolski

We invite you to our two locations.pl ul. Francuska 11 Ph. 22 616 2432 ul. Belwederska 18 A Ph. 22 840 5060 francuska@restauracjadompolski.pl belwederska@restauracjadompolski.pl www.restauracjadompolski.pl

public art

STATE OF THE ART At last, the Cosmopolitan Tower has unveiled the final piece in its swank-looking jigsaw: an installation by a world-renowned artist…

10

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

Art buffs have traditionally sneered at Warsaw’s public installations. Ever since Joanna Rajkowska first erected a 15-meter plastic palm tree on Rondo De Gaulle’a in 2002, the city has been treated to bursts of controversial art: from an outsized paper boat moored on the Wisła, to a giant inflatable teddy bear that moved fleetingly around town in 2013. And who can forget the rainbow that, until recently, stood defiantly on pl.

Zbawiciela – certainly not the religious nutters and hooligan headcases that habitually attacked it.

Even the less divisive works have had their problems – viewed as little more than playful distractions, that sense of being wacky for the sake of it has often outweighed any artistic merit. But in a city of gaudy gimmicks, Eran Shakine’s You & Me stands out as a work that’s both sophisticated and mature.

Unveiled in October, the eight-meter-tall installation depicts a man and woman standing precariously on opposite ends of a see-saw-style beam that swings slowly in the breeze – the idea, says the artist, is to show the fluctuating relationship people have with their partner. Wedged into the ‘Patio’ restaurant / recreation area of the Cosmopolitan Tower, it’s already achieved that rarest of triumphs by being hailed by both Joe Public and the critics. Assuming it hasn’t already blown down in a gale, judge for yourself by visiting ul.

Twarda 2/4.

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

inFront

Benihana, the world famous teppanyaki restaurant, is now open in Warsaw!

Benihana offers a truly unique dining experience. The idea of chefs juggling knives and exchanging witty banter originated in New York in the 60’s, and since then the Benihana culinary experience has been enjoyed by over 100 million diners worldwide. Each table has its own individual chef that will prepare light, delicious, and varied Japanese

teppanyaki meals in front of your eyes while entertaining with samurai knife skills and a stream of charming patter.

Choose from several kinds of steak, chicken, or seafood and let the chef take care of the rest. Meals in Benihana are terrific fun for families, groups of friends and work outings, not to mention first-dates!

The smart, minimalist dĂŠcor

is modern Japanese. The service is charming and, if sushi is vital part of your Japanese meal, Benihana’s raw fish is an excellent example of authentic Japanese cuisine.

Find us in the heart of Warsaw in the prestigious Cosmopolitan Tower on ul. Twarda 4.

Warsaw- Behinhana ul. Twarda 4 (Cosmopolitan Tower), tel. 22 370 26 20, benihanapoland.com

inFront

photography

Eye In The Sky

Celebrated for his stunning aerial images of Warsaw, the Insider meets Maciej Margas, the man behind the camera taking photography to new heights...

Do you have a favorite place to shoot from?

I like places where you don’t get many people, places like the riverbank or Siekierkowski Bridge. In the city center I just feel that there’s always something missing from my pictures – with the way the city has developed, there’s always some building blocking another and suchlike. I did enjoy shooting from the top of Złota 44

12

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

when it was under construction, but even from there it’s impossible to get everything you want into one frame.

You’re known for your rooftop photography – how do you get up that high?

I have my secret ways! I never use illegal means, so gaining access to rooftops can be a massive problem.

Getting permission is a long, complex process with several considerations: these are dangerous places, with the rooftops covered in cables and all kinds of things, and you’re just not going to be allowed up unescorted.

The building’s owner will want someone accompanying you, which of course is a cost to them. It’s unrealistic to expect people to just say yes to you. Of course, now that people know me as a photographer the process has become easier: I’ve even had people inviting me to shoot from their offices or homes.

Once you’re up there, what problems do you face?

People aren’t flexible with dates, so as soon as you’ve set one then you just have to hope the weather turns out okay – otherwise it’s back to the beginning. But say the weather is fine, you’ve still got hard decisions

PORTRAIT BY BLOGUSZ

Your time lapse film, Heart of Warsaw, went viral last year.

Tell us about it…

I’d seen the time lapse movies you get in America and figured why not give that a try. I remember thinking it’d be nice if a couple of thousand people viewed it, I never really dreamed it would have such an impact on my career, on my life even. After the film, I was suddenly getting emails from places like Canada. Poland doesn’t have the best PR globally, so it was amazing to find people using my work to demonstrate to the world that Warsaw is a proper European city. On a more personal level, I found it thrilling to watch the city come alive in this way: I kept imagining Warsaw 70 years ago, with the city in ruins, and it felt so exciting to see what the city has become.

PHOTOGRAPHY to make: you’ve got one camera so you need to decide what you’re going to do with it: a time lapse film, a virtual tour, photos, etc. Even finding the right vantage point, one that doesn’t show bits of the building, can be difficult. From a more practical point, there’s been times when I’ve carried heavy equipment up 40 floors only to find I haven’t taken any food or drink with me.

What’s the most dangerous place you’ve shot from?

People expect me to say a skyscraper, but actually it’s the lower buildings like the ones on Jerozolimskie. What’s amazing is that all of these old constructions are interconnected; you feel almost like you’re walking across the neighbourhood from above – but with their sloping roofs these old buildings are the most dangerous.

What do you hope your photography gives to people?

You hear Warsaw being criticized all the time – people going on about how the architecture doesn’t fit, how it’s an ugly town, etc. But when I view the city from above I realize that’s not the case. I want to share that. As a country we have a tragic history, and sure, we still have plenty of problems, but I want to say to people, hey, look at this capital, we’ve got something to be proud of here.

If the time lapse vid was your big project in 2014, then 2015 was defined by your night flight over Warsaw. What was that about…

I had to rely on crowdfunding to raise the zł. 10,000 needed for the flight, and the target was reached in three days. One moment I’m leaving home and see the figure is at 25% of the total, the next one of my friends is calling me saying, hey, Maciej, you’ve got 90%. I couldn’t believe it happened so fast. Hopefully that’s because people realized I hadn’t stood still since the time lapse film, and they trusted me because of that.

And yes, it was important to be completely honest from the start about what the money was for, where it was going and what I wanted to do. There were no lies, and I’m sure that must have helped.

How did it feel to accomplish that target so quickly?

I attach a great prestige to being trusted in this way, though it also came with great pressure – I’d been handed this responsibility not to fail the people who had funded me. All of a sudden months of planning rested on three hours up in the air. It was fantastic to meet expectations and execute the project correctly.

What’s next?

I’m working on an exhibition of my aerial photography that will launch in November and I’d love to see those photos published as an album. In the longer term, I want to continue doing much the same but in other cities across Poland. Ultimately though the dream is to make a one-hour film showing a time lapse of Poland: the cities, the villages, coastline, etc.

Maciej’s exhibition launches on November 20th on the 35th floor of the Warsaw Trade Tower and will run for two weeks. For more info on his work, check his portfolio at: maciejmargas.pl

14

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

inFront

ballet Is there a difference between audiences here and in Britain?

I think audiences in Europe are much the same. Where I’ve really noticed a difference is the US. We toured New York once and the crowd was incredible – they get very involved with lots of cheering and whooping. Obviously, as a performer, it’s great to have your work appreciated in that way.

Do ballet dancers live in a gilded cage?

There’s a misconception that we’re very prim and proper. Workwise, of course, we’re very regimented; I mean from 11 years old you’re training every day, taking direction and doing what you’re told. There’s a lot of self-discipline involved. But once you leave the theatre you’re like everyone else. Working in ballet is very intense, and a very closed off environment, so mentally it’s important to have outside interests.

The Insider speaks to British ballet dancer Robin Kent, currently appearing as Casanova at Teatr Wielki...

How does a British ballet dancer end up in Poland?

The way the ballet industry works is that all companies hold their audition periods at the start of the year – I was working in Singapore at the time and missed this window, though found a couple of companies in Finland and Poland that let me audition in May. I already had a friend living in Poland, so when the company offered me a contract to start in 2012 I thought why not.

What’s the difference between ballet in Poland and the UK? The training style in the UK is based around British technique which is all about quick footwork and clarity of body movement. In Poland I’d say there’s more of a Russian style, which means lots of big jumps and pirouetting. That said, while every ballet company is unique you’ll find a lot that share the same techniques. Here, I think we’re very international: our director is the resident choreographer of the Dutch Ballet, and we do a good mix of classical and more contemporary ballet.

16

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

What’s the reaction when people hear you’re Casanova!

Though the feedback is always positive, I actually wait as long as possible to reveal what I do. That’s just a habit after years of hearing people go, ‘ooh, that’s really cool’, when they find out what I do for a living. I mean, to us it’s just a normal job.

What does ballet mean to you?

For me it’s all about performing, and ballet happens to be the medium I use.

That’s why I do this job. I love to dance and ballet is pretty much the basis for all dance forms. As a child I’d always be dancing around whenever music came on. My family doesn’t have any history of ballet or anything like that, they just couldn’t stop me from moving so sent me to classes when I was six! It went from there.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Leaps & Bounds

What’s the best thing about your job…

The adrenaline of being on stage. I love getting into a character. I think some performers get too caught up in technicalities. But when you’re performing in something like Romeo & Juliet it’s about the story – you have to concentrate as much on your character as on your technique. People don’t just want to see dancing, they want to see acting.

That’s not something we’re taught at ballet school, so in itself that’s a great learning experience.

www.warsawinsider.pl

17

inFront

fine art What process do you follow when preparing for a new exhibition?

MB: There is no set process as each object is treated individually and comes with its own unique challenges.

But let’s take our current pastel exhibition: we assess the state of preservation, conduct microbiological tests, clean dirty surfaces, replenish any defects to the substrates (e.g. the paper, the parchment), as well as conduct minor retouches aimed at merging colors.

Finding appropriate ‘sealed housing’ for a pastel is vital once it has been treated, and this we did for 195 objects in the exhibition – the remaining 55 didn’t require our intervention in this respect.

What’s it like working so closely to the art?

DN: We’re in constant contact with significant works of art and that fires enthusiasm while at the same time allowing us to develop ourselves as real connoisseurs.

Unlike visitors to a gallery, we’re not distanced from the art and that allows us to experience a full range of emotions: seeing something like fingerprint or a small smudge left by the artist lends a real physicality to the work. You can almost feel the artist’s temperament coming through, it’s something that’s impossible to ignore. On top of that, we get to discover things – a drawing on the reverse side of a canvas, or a previously unnoticed signature or date…

With the National Museum set to unveil their latest exhibition, we talk to Magdalena Borkowska and Dorota Nowak about the work of the Conservatory Department…

Mistakes must happen?

DN: Our job requires tremendous concentration, good decision-making, plus a lot of self-restraint and caution. Our motto is ‘first do no harm’. We work as a team, so if there are any doubts we discuss the situation first before going further. Of course, we’ve had some items have surprised us by their sensitivity to technology and suchlike. Our job is to deal with such surprises.

MB: We only perform work that is absolutely necessary.

In our field we use materials that are reversible and harmless, so any mistakes are easily removed. Our most challenging cases actually involve the correction and removal of mistakes made before the work reached us.

Does the conservation of art ever change its meaning?

MB: A responsible conservator would never allow for the reinterpretation of a work. Maintaining a piece well won’t change the value of the artistic content of the artwork.

18

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF MNW

Down To A Fine Art

What other discoveries do you make…

MB: It’s not unknown to uncover things related to the artist’s working methods, techniques, materials, etc.

For instance, when we removed the frame from Leon Wyczółkowski’s ‘Wdowa po Giewoncie’ we noticed some maroon pastel strokes which had been previously covered. So other parts of the picture actually should have been maroon but had turned white over time after being exposed to light. Basically, what the artist had intended us to see was completely different to what we had been viewing all of these years.

IN FOCUS PLAC TEATRALNY

THEATER OF DREAMS

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK, OPPOSITE PAP

Heavily peppered with operatic twists and tragic turns, the story behind Warsaw’s Pl. Teatralny is every bit as thrilling as the drama in its theatre…

20

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

1965

1940s

A shell of what it once was, it would take decades for Pl. Teatralny to be returned to anything like its current state...

ust imagine, an area steeped in history and culture with a car park as its center piece. Now you don’t need to think hard, because that’s what awaits at Pl. Teatralny. But aside from the concrete wilderness in the middle, Warsaw’s theater square is every bit as compelling as the dramatics played out on stage.

Dominated by the looming shadow of Teatr Wielki, the square was initially mapped out in 1818, with the theater itself added fifteen years later. Designed – inevitably almost – by Antoni Corazzi, the prolific architect of the time, it opened to a performance of the Barber of Seville in 1833. With Warsaw an outpost of the Russian Empire, naming it the National Theater wasn’t on the agenda, so the Wielki (Great) it was. Over the following decades it

would see seismic premieres, among them Halka and The Haunted Manor, both penned by Stanisław Moniuszko.

In an era when Poland was subjugated under foreign rule, the patriotic succor provided by these productions can’t be underestimated.

Heavily bombed during the 1939 Siege of Warsaw, the building faced further catastrophe five years later when the Warsaw Uprising broke out. Intense fighting left it little more than a shell, with the Nazis executing scores of prisoners in the rubble and ruins. Bohdan Pniewski, a man responsible for many of Warsaw’s pre- and post-war gargantuan constructions, was placed in charge of the rebuilding and expanded on the original. Reopened on November 19th, 1965, Pniewski’s redesign was well worth the wait: featuring the biggest theater stage in the world – www.warsawinsider.pl

21

IN FOCUS PLAC TEATRALNY

Where there’s now a car park once stood a park! The battle to return the square to its best remains ongoing…

at least at that time – the revamped Wielki was lauded as state of the art. But… it wasn’t fireproof. In 1985 a blaze swept through it, and with the nation in financial meltdown it would take another eleven years for repairs to be concluded.

Supplanting that blip was the struggle to add the Quadriga envisioned in Corazzi’s original plans. His sketches had included a triumphal horse-drawn chariot bursting from the façade, but Tsar Nicholas I personally intervened to forbid such an addition. It wasn’t until 2002 that Apollo’s Chariot was finally unveiled: the Wielki was complete!

The war left Pl. Teatralny a wreck, but while many of the buildings framing it were reconstructed straight after, the town hall wasn’t. Really, if you think that ornate edifice with the pointy white tower is a little pristine, that’s

22

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

because it is: work on resurrecting it only began after the collapse of communism. Prior to that, unbelievably almost, this was little more than a blank space occupied by an 11-meter statue of the bare boobed Nike. Unveiled in 1964, the sword-wielding Goddess stood there until 1997 before being carted to her current location by the W-Z tunnel nearby.

So, what of the elegant looking building that displaced her? First finished in 1785, it served as the City Hall up until the war. It was here that the mayor, Stefan Starzyński, led the defense of the city and recorded fire and brimstone speeches that rallied the population. Arrested in a Gestapo swoop following the city’s surrender, he was murdered soon after while in Nazi captivity. A cobbled walkway passes right through the tower, and it’s

PHOTOGRAPHS PAP

1920s

1970s

Now you see her, now you don’t! The statue of Nike is just one of Pl. Teatralny’s vanishing elements…

here you’ll find a stone tablet honoring his role. That’s joined by the outline of a former well, and numerous warrelated plaques of the ‘they fought and fell here’ variety.

Subtly illuminated at night, this narrow thoroughfare feels aptly solemn.

This air of sobriety is maintained in the church next door. Some sources claim it to be the smallest house of worship in the capital, though you wouldn’t guess reading its grandiose name: Kościół Środowisk Twórczych pw. św.

Andrzeja Apostoła i św. Brata Alberta. Replacing a wardamaged church that was eventually torn down in 1953, this tongue twister was unveiled in 1999 and promptly consecrated by Pope John Paul II. Popping in through the glass doors, don’t be startled to stumble upon chitchatting spinsters engaged in a coffee morning.

THE FUTURE

Staining an area that could otherwise become one of the calling cards of Warsaw, that car park has a lot to answer for. For years, architects have fantasized about taming this tundra, among them Aleksander Krauze and his colleague Nina Wójcicka. Speaking to the Insider, Krauze reveals the thinking behind his radical visualization of the Teatralny of the future: “Warsaw needs a comprehensive rethink with regards to how its downtown functions – while redesigning Pl. Teatralny, we wanted to show how public space could look like in a city so dominated by cars. We wanted to demonstrate that an area currently used as a giant car park could become a sleek, modern space that complements the historical buildings around it. www.warsawinsider.pl

23

IN FOCUS PLAC TEATRALNY When analyzing the square we found it to be very large – perhaps too large. In reorganizing it we delicately divided it into smaller fragments: in the middle, we positioned a ‘free space’, a convenient square in front of the National Opera that would allow for the organization of outdoor events. On the eastern and western part of the square there are elements of greenery, water and urban furniture. Then, in the central part, there’s an underground car park – its area is limited so that trees can grow naturally in the ground.

We decided that public space should speak the language of modern aesthetics. In Warsaw, when talking about the revitalization of historic areas, stylized fixtures and flooring always appear. We wanted to change that.

In our opinion a minimalist, elegant design is the best background for historical, monumental buildings.

Why did we pick Pl. Teatralny for our project? Put simply, it’s a very important square in the overall structure of the city. It’s the home of the National Opera, which in the evenings attracts visitors from all over the city.

But theatergoers approach it from the side to get to the entrance, even though only a few people park on the square in front. We dreamed of creating a vibrant place with a distinctively elegant and artistic atmosphere suited to the Opera.

Of course, our project is to some extent a dream; a condition that we would like to see achieved. But the improvement of public space in Warsaw requires coordinated action throughout the city center and, perhaps, even more broadly. I’m afraid that the square will remain in its current state for a long time: I’m afraid that the entrance to the National Opera will continue to be a parking lot hemmed in by a three-lane street. I’m afraid we’ll continue to look at shoddy pavements dotted with accidental flower pots. In brief, I’m afraid that nothing will change…”

24

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

“We dreamed of creating a vibrant place with a distinctively elegant and artistic atmosphere suited to the Opera” Architects Aleksander Krauze and Nina Wójcicka envisage a Teatralny free from cars and busy with greenery and discreet details…

Sakana

ul. Moliera 4/6, sakana.pl Brush shoulders (literally, it’s tiny) with Warsaw’s pretty things in what remains known as one of the top sushi spots about.

Senses

ul. Bielańska 12, sensesrestaurant.pl Some speak of it as a Michelin star in the waiting, and after trying Andrea Camastra’s innovative cooking you’ll understand why. Reservations (and an expense account) are recommended.

Sketch

Elixir by Dom Wódki

The Present

You wouldn’t expect less: Warsaw’s theater quarter is generously represented by high-end stores, flashy restaurants and architectural nuggets. Raise the curtain for our personal highlights…

Eat & Drink Bubbles

Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl A snug champagne bar that never feels overly snooty. Enjoy the best raclette in the city amid an intimate interior best suited for winter.

Elixir by Dom Wódki

ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Turn right to enjoy 250 artisanal vodkas both in their raw form, or in cocktails mixed by genuine bar talents. Or go left, for the restaurant, a place that modernizes Polish cooking with sensational results.

El Popo

ul. Senatorska 27, kregliccy.pl Standing since the 90s, El Popo remains a benchmark for Mexican restaurants around town. Buzzing at night, don’t be surprised to find ballad-singing Mariachi men appearing at your table.

Jamon

ul. Wierzbowa 9, jamon.pl Styled like a rustic Spanish tavern, the ground floor restaurant has had plenty of positive publicity. Lesser-known, the downstairs gets British (and Spanish) football beamed in by Sky Sports.

Opera

Pl. Teatralny 1, operaclub.pl A labyrinthine club filled with seductive private chambers. It’s a while since it was regarded as cream-of-the-crop, but the audience is attractive and international.

Resort

ul. Bielańska 1 With a design that incorporates salvaged shopping trollies and street signs, the recycling theme is taken to the limit in this popular bar.

Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, sketch.pl Warsaw’s snottiest tap bar draws an immaculate and occasionally obnoxious crowd that’s a complete contrast to the craft beer bars downtown. The prices are inflated, but most have fun.

Thai Thai

Pl. Teatralny 3, thaithai.pl Authentic tastes with plenty of fire and thunder inside classy deep black interiors punctuated with peaceful, gleaming Buddha’s.

Shopping Kondrat

ul. Wierzbowa 3, marekkondrat.pl Created by celebrity vintner Marek Kondrat, his flagship store rates as one of the city’s top ‘wine boutiques’.

Metropolitan

Pl. Piłsudskiego 3 Too numerous to list individually, the Metropolitan building is a goldmine for the luxury shopper: from designer clothes to statement watches to fountain pens that cost more than a small car – find them here.

Moliera 2

ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com Regarded as one of the top fashion stores in the city, with an updated stock that includes

the latest lines from the likes of Valentino, Louboutin and Marant.

Puppy Star

ul. Niecała 7, puppystar.pl You know those glam girls who carry yappy dogs in their handbag? This premium-priced salon and boutique is where they shop for their pooch.

Sawart

ul. Moliera 8, sawart.com.pl This bookstore specializes in music, with sheet music, books, CDs, DVDs and audiobooks amongst their comprehensive offer. Chopin is awarded special attention here.

Odds & Ends Metropolitan

Pl. Piłsudskiego 3 Designed by Sir Norman Foster, the donut-shaped Metropolitan building is a great example of modern Warsaw’s architecture: loved by some, loathed by others. Even the detractors agree the courtyard fountain is a cool, little feature.

National Theater

Pl. Teatralny 1, teatrwielki.pl The seat of both the National Opera and the National Ballet.

Compared to Western levels, the prices are ludicrously affordable: even if you’re not the traditional ‘theater type’, at least visit once.

Senator

ul. Bielańska 10/12 Marrying history to the modern, this gleaming office compound is connected to a bullet-pitted building that was once the Warsaw branch of the Imperial Bank of Russia. Several original details can still be spotted.

The Wave

ul. Moliera 8 Sneak into the courtyard to view one of socialist Warsaw’s wackiest apartment blocks.

Resembling a 3D version of Tetris, this 70s residential complex is one of the city’s true courtyard secrets. www.warsawinsider.pl

25

TRENDS CEVICHE

In The Raw

Having already left a trail of millions of addicts the world over, Poland is the latest country to fall under the spell of Latin ceviche‌

26

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

I

t had to happen – and it has. After burning through Western Europe, ceviche has continued its journey around the globe and checked into Poland. And that’s good news for all of us hopelessly hooked on this South American delicacy. For the rest, say those who’ve been shipwrecked on a rock the last year, this latest world food fad is as basic as they come: raw fish marinated in a mash of citrus juice and spice. The result is an irresistibly addictive rush of fresh, spiky flavors that explode in the mouth in a shower of zing: such is the effect, everyone remembers their first time.

Granted, ceviche has been appearing on an increasing number of menus lately, but it’s only now the country can boast its own dedicated ceviche bar. And it’s called, Ceviche Bar. Short on innovation that might be, but you understand why – with an epidemic of ceviche bars expected to follow, it seems sensible that head chef and proprietor, Martin Gimenez Castro, has marked his territory with a name that suggests ‘we were the first’. “For sure I’m expecting ceviche bars to take off,” says Gimenez Castro, “so I really wanted to get this place off the ground as soon as possible – I didn’t want to be the second, to be seen as copying someone else.”

Already celebrated for his fine dining Salto restaurant, his latest venture has, to some extent, been the realization of a dream: “In Salto,” he says, “we experiment, we create surprises; but here it’s the reverse. It’s simple, ceviche isn’t something that I’ve invented. This cuisine is something like 1,000 years old, so I’m not surprising anyone with magic tricks – there’s no foam or caviar, it’s just about the flavors.” Most of all, it’s about Gimenez Castro being himself: “I felt like I needed somewhere like this to explore my Latin emotions. It’s commonplace in many countries for the top chefs to have a second restaurant, like a small tapas bar where they go and have fun after work, and that’s kind of the idea here – while Salto is all about precision and concentration, here I wear jeans and a t-shirt, there’s a DJ, people are drinking cocktails, it’s a place where I’m myself.”

And gosh, that appears to have struck a note with the public. Regularly packed to bursting, it’s taken off in a way that’s had some bloggers tipping ceviche as the next sushi-style trend. “I’m not a huge fan of that comparison,” says the chef, “really, I find sushi a little bit boring: there’s too many places in this city and not enough that are actually any good. Everywhere feels the same, and that’s no surprise because most of them are using the same importers. And, of course, you just can’t compare the taste of sushi to ceviche – you really feel something with ceviche!”

A proud Argentinean – as the mural of Maradona might suggest – Gimenez Castro is quick to extract

The result is an irresistibly addictive rush of fresh, spiky flavors that explode in the mouth in a shower of zing

himself from the patriotic tug-of-war that ceviche has inadvertently caused: “it’s not an Argentinean dish, ceviche, and you won’t find us fighting over it like the Peruvians, Chileans and Bolivians do: each of them think they invented it. The truth is, ceviche bars are fantastic wherever you go in South America: it’s harder to find a shitty place than a good one.”

And here lies the key to both Ceviche Bar and the ideology of the chef: “ceviche doesn’t belong to any one nation, and neither am I trying to represent a particular one,” says Gimenez Castro. “I’ve had Peruvians say to me, hey, how come you make salmon ceviche, we don’t do that in Peru – and I say, well, I’m not a Peruvian restaurant. There’s many Peruvians living out here, and if they want Peruvian food then they should open a Peruvian restaurant! I don’t want people to think I represent a country, because I don’t, what I want to do is represent South America.” And that, given the praise being heaped his way, is something that Gimenez Castro has been successful in doing.

Ceviche Bar ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

27

WINE GLASSWARE

A Glass Act

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Jaded by your more typical wine tastings, the Insider discover a course that’s in a glass of its own…

28

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

L

et’s be honest, we’ve all done it: ended up at a house party chugging back wine in the style of a student – from a paper cup or a broken-handled mug with coffee rings on the bottom. Remember how it tasted? Depending on the high jinx, probably not, but it wouldn’t have been good. Quite possibly, it may have put you off wine for life. Put simply, the vessel matters, and it’s a point that goes further than just using a well-polished glass that cost a pretty penny. Finally, though, Warsaw is starting to take note, and to that extent a degree of gratitude is owed to Piotr Kamecki.

President of the Polish Association of Sommeliers since 2005, it’s at his latest venture, Wine Taste by Kamecki, that the Insider meets him. A chic spot, operations are directed from a stylish room that houses the biggest selection of Bordeaux wines in the country: both in number and depth. Yet this is not simply a shop. While customers searching out a good bottle for dinner are welcome, Kamecki is clear that his target group are those looking to fulfil more extravagant orders – and for him that doesn’t just involve sourcing big batches for ambitious oenophiles, but also designing cellars. “Last year,” he recalls, “that included a 5,000 bottle cellar for a private enthusiast.” It also means education.

“I want this to be seen as a tasting showroom,” he emphasizes, “which is why the focal point is the table.” But while traditional tastings feature heavily, it’s the ‘glass tastings’ that have become the must-try. “I aim to show what a glass can give or take from a wine,” says Kamecki. “I hear people complaining that they didn’t enjoy a certain Pinot Noir, and of course, sometimes that’s because it’s a bad wine, on other occasions it’s because it’s been served at the wrong temperature, but mostly the fault lies with the wine glass – you’ll see that here.”

Taking around 40 minutes, the tasting involves pitting regular plastic cups against glasses produced by the Austrian manufacturer Riedel. “There’s around 10,000 grape varieties,” says Kamecki, “and I realize that’s beyond the comprehension of most customers, so we usually run with three different wines that most will be familiar with.”

These include Pinot Noir (“a thin-skinned grape responsible for delicate and demanding wine”), a Cabernet or Merlot (“a thick red wine, very dry with a heavy aroma”), and then something in between those two like a Syrah or a Shiraz.

It’s here that the games begin, with the wine poured first into the plastics and then into the three glasses, each of which has been individually designed to enhance varying types of wine. For skeptics, like myself, it doesn’t take long to realize that this glass business isn’t rooted in hocus pocus snobbery. “Pinot Noir needs the perfect glass,” asserts Kamecki. “Without it, from the plastic cup, straight away it tastes acidic, bitter, there’s no smell. But in the good glass you notice its delicacy, its fragrance; you pick up the spices in the mouth. The shape of the glass is

such that drinking the wine you avoid the acidity receptors on the tongue.”

And so it goes, with different glasses pronouncing subtle and not so subtle differences all connected with clever-sounding things like molecules and receptors. “If it sounds complex,” says Kamecki, “that’s because it is – but that’s why these classes place the onus on tasting, not talking.” Perhaps the biggest surprise is yet to come, for it’s not just wine that finds itself affected by the glass it’s served in.

“We can do tastings with spirits, water, champagne,” says Kamecki, “take Bollinger for instance. That’s based on the Pinot Noir grape, so if you drink it from a flute you’ll get a completely contrasting taste. It actually needs space, a big glass, otherwise I can best compare it to fitting an XL-sized man into a tight little waistcoat.” In fact, there’s even a Coca Cola test to experiment with.

As someone who drinks more Red Bull than red wine, a fizzy drink challenge is immediately appealing. With a bottle acquired from around the corner, Kamecki wheels out another Riedel glass, this one developed last year specifically for the soft drink giant. “From the plastic cup Coke is filled with gassy bubbles, but this glass cuts those out. You can even find a faint aroma of orange peel and milk chocolate.” What next, I think, will the Kamecki pull a card trick? Sensing my disbelief he’s quick off-the-mark: “Don’t think of Riedel as a magician,” he states, “it’s all down to physics.”

With the tasting complete, and my mind scrambled by the impossibilities of it all, comes the last, parting shot. “If you want to enjoy top wine, you need a top glass,” says Kamecki, before delivering the mortal blow to tightwads all over: “and remember,” he says with a smile, “a good glass won’t make a bad wine good.” It’s not magic after all…

Visit Piotr at Wine Taste by Kamecki on Twarda 2/4, tel. 506 012 040 www.warsawinsider.pl

29

WINE FOOD PAIRING

What A Pair!

Wine merchant Robert Mielżyński talks to the Insider about the complexities of matching wine not just to food, but the person…

30

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

if you’re cooking at home for people then you need to get a wine you like, not a wine you think others will enjoy...

I

could natter all day about food which, given that a substantial part of my job involves doing just that, isn’t a bad thing. But ask me a question on wine and you might as well be asking a tortoise. If there’s one moment I dread when eating out, it comes with the presentation of the wine list – even worse, dinner at home and being put in charge of the wine. Times like that I hit the local Piotr & Paweł, chuck something moderately pricy into the basket and hope for the best: pay and pray.

As it turns out, I’ve been doing it all wrong. That much I gather talking to Robert Mielżyński, a man many regard as Warsaw’s top wine broker. “Buy wine in a hypermarket and you’re just guessing,” he warns, “a specialty shop on the other hand will be able to give you a proper, personal consultancy. In our case, my boys will ask you clearly what your budget is, and if it happens to be just zł. 40 that’s fine, they’ll try and work with that. We don’t get it right 100% of the time, but we’re definitely not far off – at the end of the day, if you have a memorable dinner, and our wine plays its part, you’ll come back to us. It’s in our interests to find the wine that fits your night.”

So go on, what does that mean with Thanksgiving coming up. “You’ll be having white meat, maybe some kind of pie,” he muses “so white is usually the answer, but a red could also work, nothing too heavy of course, so a nice Pinot Noir. For the white, definitely think about a barrel fermented Chardonnay, or something slightly heavier like a Sauvignon. A New Zealand would fit well, it’s quite tropical with hints of mango so that’s a good match.”

Budget is key throughout. “Sure,” he says, “if you’re having wild boar then a nice Barolo or a big Burgundy would be good, but sometimes you just don’t have the money for that, especially if you’re cooking for a group.”

In such a situation, forget about the others and instead think of yourself. “Marketing people might tell you otherwise,” says Mielżyński, “but if you’re cooking at home for people then you need to get a wine you like, not a wine you think others will enjoy. Why? Because sometimes other people just don’t know what they like. And remember, very large groups aren’t bothered about expensive wine, they just want a nice easy drinking wine. Anything more is a waste.”

Mielżyński ul. Burakowska 5/7 & ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

31

LISTINGS RESTAURANTS 44 CAFES & WINE BARS 71 NIGHTLIFE 76 SHOPPING 83 FAMILY 86 HEALTH & BEAUTY 91 IN THE CITY 94

Goody Two-Shoes

Finding footwear in Warsaw that’s both practical and stylish is hard enough for adults. As for kids? Forget it.

At least that was the case. The creation of Kopytko Mamuta plugs a gap in the market, with beautifully cobbled shoes that are, in the words of the owner Agnieszka, ‘the essence of Parisian chic’. Specializing in trendy kicks from brands like Mercredi Apres Midi, Beberlis and Emel, it’s the ultimate spoiler for your budding style maven and her little Prince Charming.

Kopytko Mamuta

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

ul. Boya-Żeleńskiego 2, kopytkomamuta.pl

32

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

Goose that seduced: Mała Polana Smaków

WHAT WE ATE:

Alex (editor) Lucky me: two trips to La Rotisserie this month, with the undisputed highlight being a fillet of beef that left no doubt in my mind this is one of Warsaw’s top venues.

Julita (sales) Mała Polana Smaków is definitely one of the discoveries of 2015. Not only was the goose exceptional, the kitchen staff gave my dog a bag of leftovers!

STEAK OUT With much of Poland’s top meat earmarked straight for export, a noteworthy butcher remains a rare find. Launched by Hubert, an Austrian / Pole, and Adam, his American business partner, Steak Club is quickly acquiring something of a following amongst its growing band of clients. “We live in a country with worldclass beef,” says Hubert, “but these are sad times with most of this amazing product unavailable on the home market: our philosophy is to get the kind of beef that’s only available abroad – or in the top restaurants and hotels – to the everyday home cook.” It’s a promise that’s as literal as it sounds: all orders are delivered straight to your door. And with Thanksgiving approaching, the duo have also got their hands on a batch of Mazurian farmed turkeys.

For details check: steakclub.pl

Top Lunch Deal!

There are times that bills at Nolita make you gulp: but whilst the zł. 285 nine course tasting menu is worth the spend, even a speed-eater won’t fit it into their afternoon break. Instead, check the lunch menu: zł. 79 for two courses, or zł. 89 for three. Click to nolita.pl for the latest options.

www.warsawinsider.pl

33

REVIEWS

Raising The Steaks…

i

f there’s one thing that I’ve learned, it’s that there’s never a bad time to visit Merliniego 5. But, paradoxically, there is a best time. And for me, that’s autumn, with pumpkin-colored foliage falling from gaunt-looking trees. Muffled from the first early chill, there’s something instantly gratifying about entering the place: a low-key warmth that emanates from the cherry wood finishes and buffed brick walls. Then there’s Andrzej, the owner.

In more ‘conventional’ countries I find the proprietor’s presence an encouraging sign. In Poland, mind, you’ll usually find the holders of the purse strings dallying in the shadows spying on the waiters. Rarely do they do anything more than unnerve their staff – and clients. Andrzej is cut from a different cloth, an old school host who adds more than just knowledge. Personalizing the whole dining experience, his is a welcome that’s open and sincere: genial and peppered with wisecracks delivered in a Polish / New Yawk accent. You’d love to see him on Letterman.

Above all though, it’s his passion for food that shines through – and in particular, meat. Speaking about sourcing his steaks, he talks as if he were buying fine art and in a way, he is: only the end results are far more enjoyable – after all, have you ever tried eating a painting? From the comprehensive meat choices, there

34

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

are certainly some that weigh in at gallery prices: for instance, the Class 9+ Tajima-Gyu Kobe beef. But does anyone complain?

No, this level of product supersedes critique.

We’ve elected to go for a filet mignon as well a Black Angus rib-eye. The latter is a stonking chunk of cow, purchased direct from New York’s Ottamanelli & Sons and seeping with massive, manly tastes. The former, meanwhile, is so soft it cuts like butter.

If there is a surprise, it’s that the surf matches the turf. Our starters are Brittany oysters, fat big fellows with a seaside aroma.

While my colleague gulps, I bite into them giving full release to the beautiful meat. Grilled Spanish octopus is equally pleasing, with this thick coil of sea monster satisfying all. There are condiments to jazz up each dish, but all are surplus to the situation.

I think it was March, my previous trip. That time I left Merliniego prattling praises like ‘the steak of a lifetime’. Well, I feel like the man who lived twice, for this visit was just as good, maybe even better. Go. Merliniego 5

ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, merliniego5.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

The Insider finds wizardly magic on Merlin street…

Wine Pairings

Handpicked by wine expert Sławomir Kojło, Merliniego’s wine offer covers all bases: from big night wines to simple tipples, not to mention a number of organic wines unique to the restaurant.

For Surf: Gruner Veltliner, Alram ‘Hasel-alte Raben’, Kamptal, Austria 2012 Chardonnay, Casa Silva, ‘Angostura’ Colchagua, Chile 2013 Riesling, Fritz Haag, ‘Brauneberger’, Mosel, Germany 2013 For Turf: Primitivo di Manduria, ‘Dunico’ Puglia, Italy 2010 Malbec, ‘Colome’ Reserva, Salta, Argentina 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, ‘Robert Mondavi’, Reserve, Napa Valley, USA 2007 Nebbiolo, ‘Sito Moresco’, Gaja, Pidmont, Italy 2010

www.warsawinsider.pl

35

REVIEWS

Created by Kashka and Jean-Marc, this eclectic store feels like a breath of fresh air. With about two thirds of the stock sourced from France (and the rest from Britain), there’s a sense of originality about the imaginative items: from reclaimed antiques to quirky odds and ends to beautiful jewelry, it’s the ideal place to personalize both your look and home. Most of all, it’s the kind of irresistible shop that turns browsing into buying.

Le Galerie Parisienne ul. Wilcza 8, lagalerie.pl

36

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

The French Accent

BOTTLE WATCH:

Piotrek z Bagien Pumpkin Ale

The Brewery: an off-shoot of Torun’s Jan Olbracht – a standard restaurant / brewery operation – Jan Olbracht Browar Rzemieślniczy was formed last year in Piotrków Trybunalski to create brews that were altogether more artisanal. Known for racy labels that involve peasant wenches and randy kings, the craft arm of this brewery has scored some significant hits, not least from their Piotrek z Bagien range.

The Beer: perfect for the season, this new pumpkin ale comes with a pleasingly herby aroma, dark copper appearance and frothy white head – a beer you can imagine coming in from the cold to. Slightly bitter and with a long, lingering finish, it’s one of the more successful pumpkin ales you’ll find on the market. Extra points for a label featuring a scary pumpkin face and some bear-like monster emerging from the woods!

The Big Breakfast

i

The most important meal of day is now all day

n the States, McDonald’s have decided that since everyone loves breakfast so much that they would start serving it all day. There have even been reports of rogue Burger King branches going against company policy and following suit.

I doubt though you’d ever see that here. Whether it’s McDonald’s or something else a little greener, Poles have traditionally opted to eat the first meal of the day at home. However, recently there’s something out there that’s got them going out in the morning breaking bread with friends rather than eggs at home. Na Wspólnej is one of the new wave of breakfast joints that have opened, only their trick isn’t to just serve the most important meal of the day in the morning, but also all day.

Found on the intersection of Parkingowa / Wspólna, I can admit to quickening my pace when I saw the cheapish-looking awning. Redolent of a New York deli, I’d hoped to find inside a big grill with sizzling home fries and crispy bacon. Of course, no such luck. Entering, you’re greeted with a Polish aesthetic (liberal use of white paint, banquettes and a refrigerated glass display case). But the welcome was warm and I wasn’t going to go anywhere after being told that Polish or ‘international’ breakfast came free with a zł. 10 coffee.

Arriving promptly, it was a good effort as well, with eggs, salad, kielbasa and cheese: all composed with good, hearty ingredients that made me think that maybe Poland does have breakfast potential after all...(KD) na Wspólnej

ul. Wspólna 37/39, facebook.com/ nawspolnejbistro www.warsawinsider.pl

37

REVIEWS

The Second Coming

i

f ever I want reminding just how much Warsaw has changed, I need only run the word Próżna through my laptop’s search function. There it is, evidence aplenty: scores of pieces I’ve written that describe the street as a ‘rare, rotting relic of bygone times,’ or a place of ‘eerie, empty tenements’. ‘At night,’ I once wrote, ‘you can almost hear the ghosts’. Nowadays, of course, the only spirits you’ll be coming across are the ones you can drink. The street’s transformation has been swift and dramatic – from desperate dereliction to thriving social hub in the space of a couple of years.

First came the builders, rehabilitating the area in a way no-one could have imagined. Then came the restaurants. The latest, to

38

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

that effect, is Kieliszki na Próżnej (Glasses on Próżna), so named because of the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. I know this not because I’ve counted them, but because the waiter reads my mind and answers my question before it’s even asked. An impressive trait.

As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian: the temptation is to follow the artist’s captivating wildlife scenes from one end of the room to the other. Bugger the other diners, do it, and once you’re done, then you can settle.

The menu isn’t the toughest reads there is, with a changing offer that – on my visit – features just four mains, seven appetiz-

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

A new venue leads the renaissance of Próżna street…

ers and a similar number of small plates. But I’m fine with that; it’s a menu that slots in well with that whole downtown bistro vibe. From the starters we order foie gras pate with a toasted brioche. Thick and brilliantly spreadable, its bold, deep flavors are perfect for the moody autumn weather.

There’s a separate plate of brawn, with this slab of pig flesh served with pink pickled radish and a lustrous parsley olive sauce. Taken on their own, the separate components would feel one dimensional. Put together, the combination is complete seasonal comfort: a hearty dish that insulates the soul. And where would we be without the herring? This thick slither of Baltic fish comes adorned with clever curls of beetroot, pinches of potato and a welcome dab of cream. Approval is unanimous.

In terms of ordering, that’s the others done. I’m on my own for mains, and I’ve gone for cod with chives, fennel and lemon.

The plating won’t win any pageant’s, but in this case the beauty lies within. It’s as good a fish as I’ve tried in recent times: delicate, soft and moist, the kind of dish that compels you to post to Instagram together with infantile hashtags that say things like #foodgasm. The others don’t know what they’re missing.

A generous chunk of my life has been spent eating dessert, so there’s just no way a groaning belt buckle will stop me at this stage of dinner. Plums with bitter chocolate is the order, and it’s a good call of mine – a dish filled with sweet, sour tastes balanced out by a soothing scoop of vanilla cream cheese. To call this a convincing conclusion would be a gross injustice: it’s more than that, it’s a modest piece of excellence.

And that, I think, is a good way to describe the cooking.

Kieliszki na Próżnej is not a venue that places fads on a pedestal – the interiors might be ‘now’, but the cuisine is a truthful work that relies on high quality ingredients cooked by high quality people; they know what they’re doing and don’t go for needless complications. Próżna is beeping loudly on the foodie radar, but that’s no guarantee for the restaurants that have appeared – some will fade, and others will die. But with such a solid philosophy behind them, don’t expect Kieliszki to be one of them. (AW) Kieliszki na Próżnej

ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

39

Partner News The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers…

Star Turn

It was Amber Room that won the honor of hosting the 2015 Winicjatywy Gala, a glittering dinner that gathered over 100 of the top chefs and sommeliers in the country. The event included a wine tasting, as well as a menu devised by Mateusz Wichrowski (Brasserie Warszawska), Paweł Oszczyk (La Rotisserie) and Robert Skubisz (Amber Room) Amber Room Al. Ujazdowskie 13

French Connection

Having opened their first Polish outpost over summer, French bakers Paul are set to expand their operations in Warsaw with the launch of a new venue in the revamped food court at Central Station. Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, expect their latest project to open sometime in November.

Paul Dw. Centralny

40

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

In Season

A new season means new items on the menu of Delicja Polska. Visitors can now expect to see the likes of roast goose with homemade potato dumplings making their debut, as well as carpaccio of goose foie gras with raspberry vinaigrette, not to mention saddle of venison with red cabbage, pumpkin and elderberry sauce.

Delicja Polska Krakowskie Przedmieście 64

Thai Tastes

To coincide with autumn Bangkok-born Chanunkan Duangkumma will be introducing a new seasonal menu to Thaisty – among the new additions, traditional family recipes handed down the generations but specially adjusted for the Polish climate. That’s on top of a menu that’s already wowed Warsaw with its fire, spice and street food inspirations.

Thaisty Pl. Bankowy 4

SHE’S GOT THE LOOK

The first bitter winds are no excuse to lose your svelte silhouette. Fresh from the world’s top fashion houses, swat up on this season’s must haves at Moliera 2.

Moliera 2 ul. Moliera 2, tel. 22 827 70 99, www.moliera2.com

5.

1.

6.

4.

2.

7.

3.

1. Valentino heels zł. 3,010 2. Victoria Beckham sunglasses zł. 1,780 3. Valentino purse zł. 5,755 4. Yves Salomon fur coat zł. 9,785 5. Tory Burch necklace zł. 1,140 6. Christian Louboutin purse zł. 7,760 7. Valentino gloves zł. 1,465

www.warsawinsider.pl

41

Pa N rtn ew er s

The Scent of the Sea…

Looking for the best lobster and oysters in Warsaw? Then only l’arc Varsovie will fulfil your desires… Visit us on Puławska 16...

F

ound in Mokotów, we opened our restaurant three years ago to reflect our love of seafood and French cuisine. Our motto, ‘les saveurs de France’ (the ‘tastes of France’), captures our philosophy and our dedication to providing diners with nothing but the best of French cuisine: and in particular, it’s world famous seafood.

The misconception in Poland is that oysters and lobster cost immense sums of money. Yet this is a mistake, with a plate of six oysters amounting to as little 35zł in l’arc Varsovie. Lobster, meanwhile, is available from 99zł. Open seven days a week, our diners especially enjoy our 119zł ‘all you can eat’ menu on Saturday. Our seafood is always fresh and delivered ‘to order’ from France and the Netherlands using our own transport.

Our restaurant serves five, sometimes six types of oysters, and not always just straight from the sea – at times, we’ll also serve them baked with Bayonne ham.

Our lobster is also prepared in a variety of ways, with our methods including serving it in cocktail sauce, lemon sauce, baked with béchamel, and – especially

42

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

popular with gourmands – with sturgeon caviar.

The menu also features fish, mussels, meat dishes and soups, while for dessert you won’t want to miss our crème brulee or our white chocolate cheesecake. And if you’ve never tried lobster or oysters before, our staff are happy to tell you all you need to know about enjoying this fine food.

Of course, to maximize your enjoyment of the cuisine of France one must also explore its links with quality alcohol: at l’arc Varsovie we can boast a wonderful collection of French wine, and we’re also the only place in Warsaw that serves delicious New Zealand white wine such as Sliding Hill. We’re also proud of our collection of Armagnac (Castarede), Calvados (for instance, Chateau du Breuil) and cognac (e.g. Hennessy). We look forward to welcoming you… l’arc Varsovie

ul. Puławska 16, tel. 22 465 1358, 519 000 050, larc.pl Open from 10 a.m. till last guest. Credit cards accepted.

www.warsawinsider.pl

43

restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED Best of Warsaw Award Winner

NATUREL (ul. Klimczaka 1, naturel7.pl) Down in the Royal Wilanów development, early signs suggest that Naturel could well become the restaurant the upscale Miasteczko housing compound has needed from Day 1. Overseen by Marcin Jabłoński, one of the rising stars of the Polish food scene, the menu is a celebratory observance of natural local produce: items like watercress cream soup for starters and rabbit with carrot puree for mains. The end product has left critics raving.

african american asian balkan & russian british burgers cheap eats cuban french georgian german greek & turkish indian international italian japanese & sushi jewish latin & mexican middle eastern polish scandinavian specialty shops steak houses thai whole foods

44 45 45 46 46 46 47 47 47 47 48 48 48 49 54 55 56 56 58 59 66 66 68 69 70

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

MEAT INN (ul. Nowogrodzka 15) Nowogrodzka’s position at the heart of Warsaw’s craft beer movement has attracted a steady stream of food ventures. Late weekend opening hours (till 4 a.m.), a set-up next to umpteen beer bars and a blackboard menu presenting New York hot dogs, pulled pork sandwiches and honey-glazed ribs all but guarantee pushing crowds of swaying night owls. But this is not merely food for the drunk and disorderly: the quality is such some reckon it’s Warsaw’s best burger.

44

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

african Abyssinia (B1) Rynek Nowego Miasto 2, abyssinia.pl As it transpires, there’s one way of serving the mains, and it’s truly ingenious: on injera, a spongy flatbread that’s used to scoop up the food. Basically, you eat the plate.

Brilliant. And yes, the Ethiopian choices are marvelous: meat and fish dishes served in

listings / restaurants curry-like sauces with heaps of onions, garlic and ginger. The tastes are strange, alien and immediately addictive. $$ La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, lamama.eu Things we like: African Star beer and the traditional stews. Things we don’t like: the goat meat. But that’s not a criticism of the cooking, rather an admission we don’t like goats in general – dead or alive. Those who don’t fancy experimenting with gizzards and heads make do with dishes like yam porridge or sweet and spicy coconut rice. It’s the very definition of casual, and something of a focal point for Warsaw’s African community. $$

american Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the transAtlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries.

Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$

breakfast pancakes before taking you past a tidy series of burgers and wings – amongst them an ‘Ultra Hot’ version smothered in Mad Dog sauce. We ordered the roast beef and found it fine if nothing special. While it might not be the BBQ restaurant that Warsaw’s waiting for, it’s a decent enough addition to the neighborhood. $

asian Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ Choila ul. Zajączka 25, choila.pl Perhaps not the most convenient location, but that hasn’t stopped this Żoliborz eatery earning rave reviews from the off. Chef Samika Thapa presents the dishes of Nepal and the Himalayas, with her Mo Mo stuffed dumplings earning real recognition. Look out as well for the Choila – grilled pieces of pork with onion and coriander in a spicy sauce that’s heavy with pepper and garlic. $$ Onggi (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Onggi’s problem? That’s the

food. Those expecting strong Korean flavors, big spices and plenty of bite and crunch come away disappointed by an offer that’s limited to bland and claggy dishes kept sweating in buffet containers: pay zł. 45 for all you can eat. In an area bristling with highly individual eateries, this feels little more than a merely adequate feeding trough, which is a great shame considering the considerable expense involved in the modern oriental design. $$ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, papaya. waw.pl A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya has a varied menu that uses influences from all over Asia, though particularly Thailand. But the star attraction is Preecha Wongsomboon, a Thai chef who fuses cookery with cabaret from behind a teppanyaki grill – his skills draw gasps. But between the honking horns and nifty knife work it becomes clear this is no novelty show: the food is top notch. $$ Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, patera.com.pl The center pin is a semi-circular bar, above which lamps hang from a ceiling made out of old Coca-Cola crates. There’s palm fronds, mismatching seats, cheerful colors, exposed pipes and industrial chains. Sacks of Haruka rice adorn one end, and on the other there’s floor-to-ceiling windows. It feels right, as does the food – a confident combination of

Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$ Sticky Fingers (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 4, tel. 880 763 617, stickyfingersbbq.pl The menu, that’s printed on some crinkly brown paper, and starts with

ul. Nowy Świat 36 tel. 731 001 002 beefnroll.pl facebook.com/beefnroll.burgers

BEST BURGERS /WINGS /HOT-DOGS www.warsawinsider.pl

45

listings / restaurants sushi and Thai. We ordered fried beef, and were dealt a generous portion full of pleasing, punchy tastes, sticky rice and a deep, aromatic sauce. Just as good is the green tea ice cream, both cleansing and delicious. $$ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $

balkan & russian Ba Adriatico (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52 As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. $$ Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. $$ Papalina Al. KEN 53, tel. 608 921 404, papalina. pl A warm, wood-heavy space with regional cheeses and sausages alongside grilled meats, wine from the Krauthaker vineyard and a particularly good choice of seafood.

This is Croatian food cooked exactly as you remember it from holiday. $$

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures. $

british British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, bbpub.pl The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsomer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640,

46

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either.

The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their American-style eating competitions / greed-fests. $ Barn Smoque (D4) ul. Zgoda 5, barnsmoque.pl Okay, so 2015 won’t be remembered as the year of the grill house, but Warsaw is getting there. From the owners of Barn Burger comes Barn Smoque, a casual eatery decorated with number plates and… portraits of pigs dressed for the office.

The menu is all about meat and fire, with dishes like wings, ribs, steaks and brisket.

Don’t leave without sampling the Fuck Crack Bacon: grilled bacon in beer batter with a side of jalapeno / BBQ salsa. $ Beef’N’Roll (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 531 707 070, beefnroll.pl If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required.

Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. $ Fuddruckers ul. Górczewska 124 (Wola Park), tel. 22 533 4000, fuddruckers.com Not ones to keep quiet, the American Fuddruckers chain claim to build ‘the world’s best burger!’ A big claim, but on early evidence they can certainly claim the Warsaw leg of this title. In an added plus, a buffet stand lets you throw as many addons (jalapenos, salsa, etc.) onto your food as possible. Full review coming up! $ Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery

listings / restaurants Seduces with the taste Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

cheap eats Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, meatlove.pl Not ones to stagnate, Meat Love have expanded in size, meaning there’s now plenty of room to sample their artisan sandwiches – the roast beef is a best seller. While some claim it’s no longer the benchmark venue of old, it’s still a consistent performer. $ Pogromcy Meatów (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Remember when Meat Love opened? Remember how the city went crazy for it? Expect those scenes to be repeated with Pogromcy Meatów, a dashing, glass-fronted spot with chessboard colors and gleaming surfaces. But no one is here to admire the interiors, they’re here for a selection of to-die-for, meaty sandwiches: find piles of beef cheek and veal tongue leaking out of artisan buns slathered in homemade, top secret sauces. Think of it as the best thing to ever happen to Koszykowa! $

cuban El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

french L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, larc.pl A place of considered elegance, subtle decorations and monochrome colors. They’re especially noted for their obsessive attitude towards seafood (pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing), inventive mains and desserts that are heaven. $$ Le Bistro Rozbrat (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 22 881 7808 The signs

suggest that Powiśle is set to mature even further this year, making the transition from hipster haunt to restaurant breeding ground – and here is Exhibit A. Owned by Frenchman Alain Budzyk, the interiors are contemporary casual, with talking points saved for the food.

The concise menu has token nods to Spanish cuisine, as well as a steak bavette that’s being raved about on the blogs. $$ Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne (D3) ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria), tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw. com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. Always leave room for dessert, especially the ‘pear trio’ – delicate and refreshing and with the right hint of sweet.

Modern take on Italian Cuisine Mediterranean starters, seafood, pasta, pizza and Italian desserts Free car park for restaurant guests

Petit Appetit (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27,tel. 22 826 44 61, petitappetit.com.pl A bit of French you say?

Step in. There’s an atmosphere here that melts regulars and tourists into one. An easy coexistence that reveals a lot about the very soul of the place: café, hangout, bistro. Small choice but good results. $$

georgian Restauracja Gruzja (D4) ul. Chmielna 5, tel. 729 460 761, smakigruzji.pl After a red hot debut there’s been murmurs that Gruzja’s kitchen has suffered a few hiccups. Nonetheless, the chinkali – every Georgian’s favorite doughy purse of broth and meaty goodness – remains worth the visit. $ Rusiko (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628 The great location helps, with its nice evening light and people watching opportunities, but it’s the interiors that make it: rugs hanging on the wall, classic tables and contemporary lights. You feel right at home, which we guess is what the owners had in mind from the

www.focaccia.pl tel.: 22 829 69 69, Senatorska 13/15 Warsaw/Old Town

www.warsawinsider.pl

47

182854_REKLAMA_INSIDER_Focaccia_46x206mm_Black.indd 2015-08-18 1 10:20:21

listings / restaurants start. Find them hopping between tables, eating, chatting and going the extra yard. Full of warmth, love for food and live music at the weekend, this is the raucous, good-humored Georgia you want to know. Note: closed Monday. $$

german Adler (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, adlerrestauracja.pl Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large.

Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

greek & turkish Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, parosrestauracja.pl Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/

santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 Slowly but surely it seems the Turkish influence has been eroded in favor of a pedestrian menu of burgers, pasta and other things available on every corner. But this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in. $

indian Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl One of the best looking Indian restaurants in Warsaw, but the food rarely pokes above average. For a cuisine that prides itself on rich, intense tastes, Bombaj gets remembered for bland, oily dishes that

only sometimes get finished. Yet business remains brisk, thanks to location and general culinary ignorance. $$ Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, buddha.info.pl The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and topdrawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is a favorite of ours though the real plus here is the consistency: it’s always a solid bet. $ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, chmielarnia.waw.pl Find some of the world’s greatest beers (see Nightlife) served in a murky, muggy basement. The Indian food that accompanies it is generally successful without being memorable – the beer snack menu though is great, with big points going to the spicy, chili ribs. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774 & al.

Ken 47, tel. 22 213 0689, curryhouse.com.pl A primitive design (port-a-loo toilet, barred windows) and far-flung location have not hindered Curry House one bit. It’s a legend, not least for their vindaloo – a macho dish that provokes spontaneous combustion. Be warned: no beer. $ Madras (B3) Al. Solidarnosci 129/131, tel. 536 335 333,

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl At Cesarski Pałac our aim is to showcase authentic Chinese cuisine by using excellent and experienced chefs from China. Established in 1994, our 60-seater restaurant also has an additional 14-seater private room for meetings and functions.

The elegant interiors and excellent cuisine are considered hallmarks of our top class restaurant.

Especially recommended is our Sechuan goulash, beef served from the hot plate and Peking Duck.

Our waiters are happy to ensure that the wine you choose matches the dish.

48

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

listings / restaurants Even before you enter, you smell Madras: a pungent aroma that wafts gloriously over gloomy Solidarnośći. Looking humble, unassuming, and even a little seedy, this microscopic venue is as far removed from refined as it gets. For all that, those who love Indian food refuse to go anywhere else for their curry – full of intense flavors and bold spicing, the vindaloo is a near death experience: even your hair feels like it’s on fire. As the burning euphoria subsides, you’re left basking in that blissful glow all hotheads will know. Newsflash: now serving Grimbergen on tap! $ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 22 428 44 54, mandalaklub.com or indiaexpress.pl Remember the cheap curries you once scoffed as a student? Well Mandala offers something similar. Immense portions, low prices and an efficient delivery service ensure plenty of custom, but the food is, at best, nothing more than ordinary. On a bad day, you might feel a little queasy. $ Mr India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling.

No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying.

Then there’s the vindaloo – could be hotter for some, but good enough for most. $$

Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste found themselves losing their way somewhat. Now back on track – and with a newly expanded upstairs section – one Insider correspondent goes so far as to claim a recent trip as his ‘favorite Indian for years!’ $$ Parivar al. Waszyngtona 75, tel. 22 393 4104, parivar.pl The squid sizzler has the taste and texture of that chewing gum you found stuck under the bus seat, whil e the vindaloo is cunningly disguised as a bowl of red water with some chicken floating about. “I get better curry on the oil rigs,” opined the Insider’s official balti boy. For all of that, the biggest disappointment is Parivar’s apparent success. $ Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, rain.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look, while the shaded courtyard garden is one of the best about town. The real credit for Rain’s resuscitation though belongs to the kitchen: our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in any Indian restaurant. And the mains continue the form with a magnificent lamb tikka masala. The tiffin lunch deals are outstanding as well. $$ Rani Al. KEN 48/10, tel. 729 247 400, rani.com.pl

Mere steps from Metro Natolin, this restaurant’s catchment area goes beyond just Ursynów. Owner Samir is a self-confessed foodie, and his vision includes a contemporary Indian menu that features pan-seared cod with turmeric, tomato salsa and mint chutney – wonderful. Rani will also please the traditionalists, with everything from creamy kormas to vindaloo’s that leave your ears blowing smoke rings. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen not just the interior modernized, but the menu – start with the pea and basil soup before moving onto the chicken tamarind or the chicken sholay kebab. Coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table. Traditionalists will also approve: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable butter chicken tikka masala. After a couple of years in the doldrums, Tandoor is back with a bang. $$

international Aioli Inspired by Mini (D6) pl. Konstytucji 5, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Fans of the original we might be, but this latest venture brings to mind one of those anonymously formulaic Times Square

• The best quality USDA Black Angus prime beef, Wagyu 9+ Kobe steaks and Scottish prime beef.

• Outstanding seafood menu with oysters, mussels, octopus and calamari and seasonal, traditional Polish dishes.

• The largest selections of global wine in Poland. ul. Merliniego 5 (across from the Warszawianka water park) tel. 22 646 0810/22 646 0849

www.warsawinsider.pl

49

listings / restaurants eateries where tourists convene for the ‘fake’ New York experience. There are moments when the scrum at the bar threatens to spill into blood sport, while the despondent staff only make matters worse. You’d think the Pilsner beer tanks would serve as a point of redemption, but here foul glasses make what should be Warsaw’s freshest beer into the capital’s worst. $$ Ale Wino (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season. Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous. As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver.

Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl If it’s informal dining you want, then Bibenda nails it: here the warm design incorporates a popular bar area filled with a young, chattery crowd. The seasonal menu makes use of market vegetables and farmyard produce, and is built on pillars of quality and simplicity. $$

Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3223, boathouse.pl The name gives it away, doesn’t it? Situated in what is indeed a former boathouse, this venerable institution comes into its element in warmer weather when Warsaw goes riverside to dine at this restaurant. Even out of season, the Mediterranean standards have stood the test of time and keep this venue busy. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$

50

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$ Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 The simple name implies exactly what it is: a restaurant in a house. Set in a pre-war home complete with a lawn and garden, this little secret isn’t all that secret. When the Insider visited it was packed, prompting staff to make some adjustments and put together a table. We’re glad they did. Their menu changes frequently, and on our visit included homemade focaccia, beef risotto and gravlax with lime foam on top of a mini-pancake. You won’t want to leave. $$

Dwie Trzecie (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 605 589 588 Undeterred by the departure of chef Marcin Jabłonkski, the new guy in the kitchen, Grzegorz Nowakowski, has stamped his own mark with a seasonal menu that’s high on creativity: on our visit that meant guinea fowl accompanied with splotches of emulsion and smears of coffee puree. Pleasingly, you get the idea that it’ll work in all seasons: raw enough for summer, yet intimate for winter. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does. The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. $$ Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, facebook. com/dwichlab This haunt has a high communal seating plan and hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food.

The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks. The place is known for its trial-and-error attitude: combinations

that don’t work get binned before making a public debut. Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine, and new chef Piotr Ceranowicz already looks like he’s adapted well to Kaskrut’s high standards. $$ Kieliszki na Próżnej (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl A hugely succesful wine bar / bistro with attractive interiors based upon a snazzy wall mural and a stack of 1,116 glasses suspended from the ceiling! The food is a winner – see p. 38 $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6070, leregina.com A gloriously seductive dining room, Poland’s champion sommelier, and a chef that many recognize as being Michelin potential: put those three together and you have one of the finest experiences to be enjoyed in a Warsaw dining room. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and in October that meant – for this diner at least - tuna with beetroot and yuzu, and a main of beef fillet: electrifyingly good. $$$ L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl Pitting local produce against modern techniques the tasting menu (five courses: zł. 170) is sensational: the duck hearts will live long in this Insider’s memory. With all the hype you expect it to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but: the design is smart but non-threatening, and the front of house staff are due plenty of credit. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Newcomer”

Loft (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, cafeloft.pl Entering Loft isn’t far removed from stepping inside a pop art painting: lots of vibrant colors and weird lights inside strings of bubbles. A bi-level venture, the best spot to enjoy the menu is on the upstairs terrace, a sunny place befitting of options with names like Ding Dong Soup and Embarrassed Chicken. $$ Lokal 14 (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 827 5480 Having served his apprenticeship at Tamka

listings / restaurants 43, you’re right to expect good things from upcoming chef Filip Kosiń. He doesn’t disappoint with his artful menu of modern European “author’s cuisine”. Topping his skills off is a pleasing environment that’s big on light, wood and metalwork. Getting used to being more than a construction site, the opening of Lokal 14 is positive news for this stretch of Świętokrzyska. $$ Między Ustami (E5) ul. Mokotowska 33/35, tel. 530 323 325, The design joins elements of classic Prague bordello against a London Soho bar, while the international menu features a decent steak nicely enhanced by a silky drizzle of demi-glace. You get the idea both the cooking and artisan cocktails need a little fine-tuning, but fundamentally this newbie is looking in the right direction – certainly one to keep a watch for. $$ MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8 Hugely famous in Kraków, chef Tristan has set about conquering Warsaw with an intriguing menu that mixes French and Asian influences into something unforgettable: don’t miss out on the ramen.

Although only open a couple of months, people are already openly calling it one of the best casual eateries of 2015. $$ N31 (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl One of the original pioneers of modern Polish cooking returns anew. Forced to close his previous

venture after a government scandal, Robert Sowa hopes to rebound with this latest effort: opened at press time, we’ll be back next issue to see if he’s succeeded. $$$

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 BEST WAWA 2014 “Fine Dining “Chef” Nowa Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 10, nowaprozna.pl Amazing to think that a few years ago this street looked like it was about to fall down. With Próżna’s restoration nearly complete, along comes the task of filling its ground floor units – consider this venture a successful pacesetter. Founded by the owners of the recently closed R20, the European menu here is a work of flair and modernity. Like the food, the slick white interiors feel just right. $$

Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents come paired with a wine list selected

by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with an immense reputation. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, platter.pl The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Północ Poludnie (E7) ul. Bagatela 10 Besides the food being colorful and inventive there is a restaurant concept that works here. It has a visible kitchen, which at times is a little noisy, a beautifully designed interior, not to mention an attentive

Slow food and a slow life philosophy inside an urban interior and a luxury wine and spirits list. Our kitchen uses only high quality regional and ecological produce. tel. 22 623 02 90, www.dwietrzecie.waw.pl

52

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

listings / restaurants wait staff that are familiar with what they serve. The sliders are worth exploration: they don’t just consist of beef, but also salmon, egg and chicken. $$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$ Renoma (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A, tel. 22 692 7239, bistrorenoma.pl Here’s a venue that suits all purposes at all times of day. Most of all, it’s a place that feels positive, a place where heart and mind work seamlessly together: that means breakfast to evening options – many of them gluten-free – including fab lunch deals and 60-day aged steaks. Great for afternoon ‘me time’ or a dinner date with a beautiful stranger, Renoma’s intimate style and soothingly stark interiors work with the personalized approach. $$

Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl For those who think Argentine chef Martin Gimenez-Castro is just about steak, then they haven’t been to Salto. The tasting menu is the best way to view his full oeuvre, and on our visit included ceviche with Portuguese corvina; a dainty tranche of cavala mackerel; and Porcini ice cream served in the shape of a mushroom.

It’s a brilliant demonstration of the chef’s passion and personality, but most of all, it’s just bloody brilliant. $$$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799 Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and roast beef. $$ Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl The entrance alone is a thing of fancy and accessed through a long open-air corridor, one side flanked by

the office block, the other by bullet grazed brickwork. Flickering flames dance on either side, the tall walls disappearing into the night sky above. Recommended is the six course tasting menu (zł. 230), which on our visit included eel, smoked at the table, duck with onion chutney and pepper mousse and swordfish served amid billowing ‘sea essence’. Comparisons to Atelier Amaro are inevitable, and speak volumes for the innovation and talents of chef Andrea Camastra. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Foreign Chef”

Original Indian Cuisine

Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, solec.waw.pl Chef Aleksander Baron is one of the big characters on Warsaw’s foodie circuit, and his love of nose-to-tail food always ensures surprises on the monthly changing menu: October, for instance, saw a tasting menu based around beaver. Using fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, this is one of the best alternate dining experiences around.

Diners order at the counter before sitting down in a spontaneous looking, cut-price interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games. We’re huge fans. $$

Soul Kitchen Bistro (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc. The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish

club

www.warsawinsider.pl

53

listings / restaurants presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. $ Szklarnia ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 690 511 020, restauracjaszklarnia.pl The cuisine is influenced by the season, which means plenty of light summer dishes presented with real aplomb. Recognizable by the dazzle of neon and greenhouse outside, this is a restaurant that seamlessly fits with the Soho surrounds. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www. tamka.43.pl The design is upscale but in a quiet, dignified manner, with the principal talking point being the view: there it is, right in front of you, the Ostrogski Palace. For date night, book the peacock’s perch, a table for two that juts out from the rest of the glass frontage. Chef Rafał Hreczaniuk has finessed a menu that stands out as one of the best in the city, with a seasonal tasting menu that on our visit featured beautiful zander with horse radish powder, Irish beef cheek with plenty of oomph, and a wild garlic panna cotta. Consider it one of the Poland’s elite restaurants. $$$ Tapage (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 5 It’s best to think of Tapage as a testing ground for experimental ideas.

Opened by the same team behind Kaskrut, it’s split into three distinct areas: a terrace,

a snug white-tiled bar, and an upstairs nook up some spiral stairs. The menu (scheduled to change every couple of weeks) is brief with dishes presented like proud little artworks.

We tried everything (!), and particularly loved the salmon served with sriracha and a bed of diced pineapple. The overlapping tastes form a perfect combination leaving diners stunned. $$

Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, bacio.pl New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$

italian

Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia. com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010.

Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. $$

Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, avepizza.plThe argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community.

Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $ Ave Pizza Piękna 56 (D6) ul. Piękna 56,tel. 22 412 0656, avepizza.pl After experiencing landslide success in Powiśle the Ave team have listened to the market and expanded to the center.

While pizza still plays a prominent role, their newest location is more serious and sophisticated in its culinary intent. Dishes like prawns in parma ham win blanket approval, while the semifreddo stop you in your tracks. $$

Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside.

Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$

Our atmospheric restaurant specializes in seafood, presented and prepared using our unique methods. The tastes ensure that it’s regulars and returnees that make up the core of our custom: join them!

15% discount with this issue, and a free glass wine with your main course!

Papalina Al. KEN 53, tel. 608 921 404, www.papalina.pl

54

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

listings / restaurants Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl You will find people ordering pizza, but they’re missing out on a marvelous menu that includes a great big octopus served with lemon mousse, and a simply stunning beef tenderloin in madeira sauce.

This is seriously talented cooking inside a fresh and light restaurant that reflects the nature of the food. $$

sanlorenzo.pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill.

The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. Now also on Żurawia 6/12, only with a more modish design clearly targeted at a slightly younger audience. $$

Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes.

Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20 minute waiting times for a table alone. Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $

The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$

Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616,

Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094 There’s a hum and a buzz to the place that goes beyond the half a million bees kept in the apiary on the rooftop, and that’s never truer than on a Sunday afternoon – swing by for one of Warsaw’s top brunches, and don’t miss the terrace – carefully shielded from the outside world by a phalanx of greenery. The Mediterranean menu has been carefully constructed using local ingredients, with the results befitting one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$

japanese & sushi Benihana (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com So the

sushi is good, but it’s the teppan grill(s) that people are raving about. Full of theatricals, sit back and watch chefs flipping shrimp tails into their hats whilst cracking wise with their captive audience. Putting the fun back into dining, there’s something immensely enjoyable about eating quality beef amid leaping flames and whooping customers. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul.

Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement?

That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo.pl Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops

www.warsawinsider.pl

55

listings / restaurants gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Uki Uki (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl Depending on how busy they are, Uki Uki will prepare your Udon noodles fresh within 15-30 minutes. The electric pasta maker, imported from Japan, is a Godzilla of a monster, compressing and even cutting the udon dough into chunky, chewy noodles that provide a solid foundation for a richly satisfying meal. Every now and again a restaurant comes along that makes Warsaw’s dining scene all the more complete – Uki Uki is one of those. $$ Wabu (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 628 9274, wabu.pl The food is a masterpiece: immaculate futomaki rolls that look like little artworks,

ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 cafeloft.pl

56

exquisite butterfish and glorious tuna gunkan that flashes with freshness. Soon enough it all becomes a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. The details don’t seem to matter, what does is that Wabu blow the competition out of the water, even if it does leave the credit card streaming smoke. $$$

jewish Galil (C3) ul. Zielna 36, tel. 731 492 634, galil-restaurant.pl There’s been a few Jewish restaurants opened in the last couple of years, and they’ve all quickly folded. Already though, there’s the impression Galil might last the distance, a point underlined by the rather good food. We started with a zesty tabouleh before moving on to grilled chicken breast with dates and a syrup glaze. Set inside a rambling, tiled interior, this labyrinthine space already looks like

its snaring big-spending groups. Kosher certified, as well. $$ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them engaged in something akin to war with the people they serve. $

latin & mexican Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, bluecactus.pl It’s been around for so long that people had started referring to the Cactus in the past tense. Enter executive chef Patrick Hanna, a man who has revitalized and revived the place in a way no-one could have imagined. Combining the barbecuing

Loft’s unique atmosphere is helped by its position on ul. Złota, a historic street now presented in modern form – it’s here you’ll find our oasis from the usual restaurants.

Our restaurant’s philosophy is founded on the words of Salvador Dali: ‘You might not eat everything, but you should never eat badly’.

Our menu presents creative global flavors and yet is underlined by its strong Polish accents. The chef, meanwhile, introduces principles of physics to the kitchen, which is why you’ll find strawberry snow, dusts, kale chips with caviar, smoked strawberries and fruit foam all on our menu.

Additionally, our daily lunch deals (Mon-Fri noon till 4 p.m.) are available for just 19.90zł. Join us in our two floor restaurant, or on our seasonal terrace.

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

listings / restaurants techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, Hanna has reawakened this sleeping giant.

Committed to local produce and fresh flavors, his finest moment has been hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Say it loudly: the Blue Cactus is back! $

Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, casapablo.pl “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this.

With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. $$

Ceviche Bar (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Created by the award-winning Martin Gimenez Castro, Warsaw’s first specialist ceviche bar serves up various interpretations of this classic raw fish dish: the corvina is an explosion of peppy, citrusy tastes and leaves you in no doubt why some are tipping ceviche to become as big as sushi. Try for yourself inside a contemporary space in which the dining area merges seamlessly with a kitchen decorated with a mural of Maradona. $$ Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523 A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is by far the best of the bunch: fiery, fresh and full of zing.

Newly expanded, meaning diners no longer

engage in games of Twister while grappling with their burrito.

Jamon (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9, tel. 22 692 4223, jamon.pl The place looks the biz – custom made artwork presents swirling senoritas against an interior that’s based around a naval color palette and reclaimed wood touches.

Perfect for ‘hot dates’. There’s an onus on authenticity, and that’s evidenced by the four Spaniards found in the kitchen. We could find no weak point, meaning complete enjoyment of the tranche of black Alaskan cod, bulgyeyed Huelva prawns and slow-roasted lamb shank. The desert – white chocolate cream – is worth a prize. $$ Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first

CHRISTMAS DINNER AT LE VICTORIA BRASSERIE MODERNE

CHRISTMAS BRUNCH AT KITCHEN GALLERY

Enjoy a 5-course Christmas dinner reflecting the beauty of Polish Christmas culinary culture and the unique “Art de Noel” of French tradition.

December 24-26 | Price: PLN 150 Reservations: Tel.: 22 657 83 82 Email: brasserie.moderne@sofitel.com

Gourmand Christmas culinary experience for the whole family. Enjoy a unique family Christmas gathering at Sofitel Warsaw Victoria.

Date: December 25 | Price: PLN 175 Reservations: Tel.: 22 657 82 62 Email: kitchen.gallery@sofitel.com

MAGNIFIQUE FESTIVE SEASON AT SOFITEL WARSAW VICTORIA Discover the art of celebrating Christmas and enjoy a sparkling New Year’s Eve Cabaret Revue at Sofitel Warsaw Victoria.

NEW YEAR’S EVE AT SOFITEL WARSAW VICTORIA

Welcome the New Year in a cabaret style and enjoy a spectacular revue show prepared by Małgorzata Potocka and the Sabat Theatre.

Date: December 31 | Price: PLN 690 per person (beverages included) Reservations: Tel.: 22 657 82 89 | Email: H3378-CR@sofitel.com

SOFITEL WARSAW VICTORIA KRÓLEWSKA 11, 00-065 WARSAW, POLAND TEL.:+48 22 6578011 - E-MAIL: H3378@SOFITEL.COM

reklama_art_de_noel_insider_144x102_swv.indd 1

www.warsawinsider.pl

57 2015-10-12 11:49:10

listings / restaurants class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness.

Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy BEST tomato sauce. Just amazing. $$ WAWA 2014 “Casual Dining” Restaurante Bunuel (H4) ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 798 659 554 Spanish-owned Bunuel has left the public in raptures. Simple interiors focus attention on the food, which in this case involves a crisp

gazpacho that gets you missing summer, and grilled meats that leave many in a swoon. $$ Spoco Loco (H4) ul. Francuska 8, spocoloco.pl It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect. But this tiny eatery (it’s essentially one bench) is not founded on gimmicks. The

burritos and quesadillas are decent in the comfort food kind of way, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. $

middle eastern Falafel Bejrut (C2) ul. Senatorska 40 Originally born as a food cart outside Hala Mirowska, this venture steams with the heat of the deep fryer, not to mention all those people squashed-up

The Biggest selection of Lebanese wine in the world!

Le Cedre 61

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66

Le Cedre 84

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99

www.lecedre.pl

Dear Guests!

We invite you to experience an exotic and mysterious adventure full of seasonal aromas and the unforgettable flavours of traditional Indian cuisine.

Curry, coriander, turmeric, cinnamon, ginger, cumin: these aromas mean it’s impossible to pass Buddha without stepping in.

Enjoy the atmosphere of Indian life, food, music and happiness.

Buddha Indian Restaurant ul. Nowy Swiat 23 +48 22 826 35 01 / 725 111 222

58

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

listings / restaurants trying to decipher the menu. We’re converted to their hummus falafel which comes with jalapenos and a little kick of hot sauce.

The secret ingredient here is an extra pinch of cilantro and parsley, which helps this pocket of pleasure come together in a whirr of freshness. $

Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl It says a lot for Warsaw’s developing tastes that it can now house a successful Yemeni venture. Bathed in chatter and chaotic kitchen sounds, Sokotra is an informal place with Indian twists on the menu, and a card that encourages plenty of plate sharing. $$

Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$

polish

Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Meza Beirut (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 692 7555, mezabeirut.pl God knows how many restaurants have chanced their luck in this location, though Meza Beirut look a better bet than most to break the hex. Lebanese-run, the menu here is comprehensive with all the requisite hot and cold mezze and grilled and skewered meats. Early feedback has been largely positive, with decent prices and fresh flavors doing their bit to stir local interest. $$ Samira ul. Powsińska 64a, tel. 22 825 3363, samira.pl There was something a little seedy about Samira’s old location, but that’s all forgotten in their new digs on Powsińska. Find this great Lebanese supermarket filling a dual role as an authentic restaurant serving authentic dishes such as kafta and shawarma. $$

Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead?

Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave.

Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. You know all the chefs we bang on about in this mag? Bottom line, the good ones came through via this kitchen.

But this is more than a training ground for future stars, it’s a place that remains on the cutting edge in spite of its seemingly straight look. Positioned inside a majestic villa, the food is pure contemporary Poland, and well deserving of its Michelin nod. For that, thank chef Robert Skubisz. $$$

ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s only Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Presentation” Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, bazyliszek.waw.pl Some parts of Bazyliszek www.warsawinsider.pl

59

listings / restaurants hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant.

Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Regarded as one of the great names on Warsaw’s culinary carousel, this restaurant never ceases to impress: set in a imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with Adam Komar’s menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial

depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. $$$ Bistro Warszawa (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. 22 635 3769, bistrowarszawa.pl The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw people city-wide. $$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717 A nationwide chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics and soup presented in bread. Twenty-something Poles cringe at such a representation of their country, but there’s

no denying it: it’s an accurate caricature of a mountain-slope karczma. $

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl Now everyone is rich and happy, it’s easy to forget communism was a pretty dire experiment. Which explains the playful nature of this commie themed restaurant. Dining is done under red banners and paintings of nasty political activists, while the menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the dignitary and proletariat – all details that saw it names as one of the Top 25 Unique Restaurants in the World. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20,

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

60

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

listings / restaurants dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer just to see it. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$

Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski. pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$ Dom Polski Belwederska (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl See in Autumn amid curling pathways and bursting shrubs, or sit inside in an interior that conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. $$

RESTAURANT &

VODKA

AT E L I E R

Elixir by Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl The dashing interior causes you to stop, look and touch. On one side, a gleaming bar with twinkling bottles, and on the other, a smart series of rooms whose ash-colored tones are punctuated with copper. The menu has a

traditional heart yet a contemporary style, and includes golonka to make the heart flutter: glorious slow-cooked meat alongside horseradish ice cream and a creamy cabbage mousse. The vodka pairing menu is essential! $$

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Be honest, sometimes all you want to do is slather lard on a big hunk of bread before surrounding yourself with little shots of ice cold vodka. You wouldn’t call it cultivated, but there are occasions when a good knees-up around a rough wooden table is exactly what’s required. And while you’re there, why not add platters of meat to the scene, a crackling fireplace and a mountain band. Folk Gospoda do all that making them the default favorite for a traditional night out. $$

Newly opened location of Soul Kitchen Bistro.

Modern, classic Polish cuisine

Halka Restaurcja po polsku (E9) ul. Puławska 43, tel. 509 593 305, restauracjahalka.pl Named in honor of one of Poland’s best known operas, Halka offer a glimpse of old school Warsaw. Having relocated from downtown Pańska, the new address is a cut and paste of the former location: lots of glinting surfaces, ornate crockery and pink flower arrangements. Innovation is surrendered for a menu that deals in classic interpretations of upmarket Polish food: rabbit, goose, duck and other animals shot on country estates.

Jaś & Małgosia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Back from the dead!

An institution dating from the 60s, Jaś & Małgosia have reopened after a three year hiatus. Updated they might be, but the design (concrete floors, exposed brickwork) features several nods to the past – not least a replica of the famous neon that once crowned the roof. The menu was designed in collaboration with Aleksander Baron, and while unglamorous and uncomplicated is food that represents all that’s good about the Polish kitchen: thick soups, fresh vegetables and hefty meat. Most of all, it makes you feel good on a wet, windy day. $ Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006 The Smolna

ul. Nowogrodzka 18A tel. 519 020 888 www.soulkitchen.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

61

listings / restaurants address is a bit misleading – in reality, you’ll be traipsing down into the park under the ‘hammer head’ tower before reaching this park-based restaurant. But you’ll be glad you did. The menu includes a full appendix of their suppliers and is all organic this and acorn-fed that. This is a happy marriage where traditions are turned on their head using creative techniques and precise presentation. And don’t forget dessert:

the sea buckthorn cream being served in October turned out to be our favorite sweet of the year so far. $$ Mała Polana Smaków (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the

inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional.

Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. $$

Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Bartek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats: order the beef rib. It’s a massive, brutal instrument that could be used to club someone to death.

Fall-off-the-bone good, this Flintstone monster is seriously memorable. Other courses are more sophisticated, and include a knee trembling, lipstick red strawberry tartar. $$ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, podwale25.pl Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $ Przystawki (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 299 1619, przystawki. com Welcome to Muranów: the black hole of local gastronomy. But change is in the air – first came the opening of Jaś i Małgosia, and now comes Przy Stawki. Both keep it simple, gunning for a straight forward menu that presents the kind of cooking you’d like to see at the in-laws: local ingredients cooked with care. In a nutshell, this is Polish home

62

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

listings / restaurants cooking at moderate prices. More places like this, please. $ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center.

Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc.

Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves.

Find natural Polish produce and traditionalsounding dishes treated with a careful and

contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. It helps that their cocktails are on point as well.$$

Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market

Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$

Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, varso-vie.pl Despite the concrete color palette Varso Vie retains a good buzz. It helps that on one side guests are flanked by punchy bursts of modern art, and on the other, an open

Spanish owner, Spanish chef… SPANISH SOUL! ul. Grzybowska 63 (next to the Hilton Hotel) 00-844 Warszawa +48 22 251 1310 www.tapasgastrobar.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

63

Restauracja Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104 / 106, 02-620 Warszawa

tel.: (+48) 22 646 42 08 www.restauracjastarydom.pl

Restauracja Zielnik ul. Odyńca 15, 02-608 Warszawa tel.: (+48) 22 844 35 00 www.restauracjazielnik.pl

Restauracja PAPU

Al. Niepodległości 132/136, 02-554 Warszawa

tel.: (+48) 22 856 77 88 www.restauracjapapu.pl

listings / restaurants kitchen that’s all clamor, commotion and general rumpus. The menu is modern Polish: duck stomachs in a flaky puff pastry with a thick smear of thyme sauce; Baltic trout served on a pinkish mush of red lentils and mint; and a coveted meringue mousse with mascarpone and passion fruit jelly.

Exemplary. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, zapiecek. eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. And then the food arrives: dainty veal dumplings, and

tender braised veal that’s good for the chills.

You leave knowing you have eaten honestly and well. $$

scandinavian Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. And don’t miss a chat with the nation’s most celebrated butcher: Pan Grzegorz of Crazy Butcher.

Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994.

Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend.

Bio Bazar (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Wed, Fri & Sat (see website for details), biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

British Shop (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804 British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items like Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc.

Forteca Kregliccy ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene

THE ONLY MODERN SOUTH AMERICAN CUISINE IN WARSAW

73 Wilcza Street, tel. (22) 58 48 771 W W W.SALTORESTAUR ACJA .PL

64ADWIhorizontal.indd Warsaw Insider1| NOVEMBER 2015

5/14/15 6:40 AM

listings / restaurants perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów.

Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912 Some people use Heritage as a wine bar, while others see it as more than that. And so it is. Peruse the Italian hams and cheeses in their fridge, olive oils, sauces and of course wine. Lots and lots of wine.

Kosher Shop (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream.

Krakowski Kredens Various locations across town, check their website for details: krakowskikredens.pl Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region.

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, kuchnieswiata.com.pl The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

La Fromagerie (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, lafromagerie.pl Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, gourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more.

La Petite France (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, lapetitefrance.pl Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France.

Le Targ ul. Mińska 25 (SOHO Factory), tel. 603 051 116 Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves, Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however.

Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, littleindia.pl The definitive Indian store though it doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available.

Maho al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, maho.com.pl An excellent German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butcher: halal certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul.

Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, marks-and-spencer.com.pl Visit the flagship Marszałkowska branch to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes early. Aside from baked goods find a widely appreciated frozen food section that include British sausages, bacon and microwave curries.

Traditional Polish cuisine Best venison and lamb in Warsaw Live music Regional wine, beer and spirits Grand Kredens - 18 years full of tradition

Martin’s Good Meat ul. Przejazd 4/7, tel. 797 866 131 Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef, not to mention lamb, veal and seasoned steaks. A candidate for Warsaw’s best butchery, no less!

Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries.

Ostra Kuchnia ostrakuchnia.pl A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service.

Samira ul. Powsińska 64A, tel. 22 825 3363, samira. pl Now in bigger and better premises, this Lebanese supermarket offers a comprehensive rundown of imported goods that ranges from spices, preserves and rubs to nuts, olives, teas and soft drinks.

Targ Śniadaniowy al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891,

Aleje Jerozolimskie 111 tel. +48 22 629 80 08 Mob. +48 697 900 000 kredens@kredens.com.pl www.kredens.com.pl Follow us on Facebook www.warsawinsider.pl

65

listings / restaurants targsniadaniowy.pl The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town.

steak houses Beef n’Pepper (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 731 307 377 A social space that encourages friends to gather and make merry over big meaty courses. Served on heavy tree stump plates, steaks here use Polish Angus aged for a 28 day period. If you’re into the concept of sharing with your fellow man, then the Beef n’Pepper plate offers a pile of everything: wings, ribs, steak. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118,

68

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

butcheryandwine.pl The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows.

But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, merliniego5.pl A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses. The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime.

Simply amazing. $$$

listings / restaurants Muu Muu (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 465 1553, muumuu.pl A life-size cow with a menu chained around its neck stands outside as if to say: “turn back now, vegetarians.” Looking sparky, fun and engaging the décor is composed of light woods and soft touches, not to mention blackboard slogans such as ‘Eat Meat’ and ‘Love Bacon’. The heart of their act is indeed meat, and involves T-bone, rib eye, chateaubriand not to mention a few burgers.

The standard is high, but so too the prices.

Our otherwise excellent sirloin was spoiled somewhat by limp, soggy chips that came at zł. 10 extra. $$ Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu

is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$

662 742 901 While the menu lacks standard Thai dishes (no noodles!?), the tastes are thoroughly authentic and a credit to the chef. The caramelized spicy chicken wings are so good you’ll think about ordering them twice. $$

thai

Naam Thai ul. Saska 16, tel. 505 110 100 An anonymous design and out-of-town location never stopped guests flocking here.

But that stands to change after the departure of chef Chanunkan Duangkumma. What was Warsaw’s best Thai now finds itself facing the biggest challenge of its existence. $$

Basil & Lime (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, basillime.pl Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked.

Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo. Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? $$ my’o’tai (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter on Górskiego), tel.

Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below.

As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and vibrant colors.

The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish

www.warsawinsider.pl

69

listings / restaurants broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! $$

Thaisty (C2) pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day.

Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the notes one expects. $$

whole foods Jamniczek (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 68/70 This small duallevel nook specializes in vegan hot dogs and healthy non-alc cocktails. Foregoing factory floor snips and tails, principle fillings include millet, tofu and spinach. Taste-wise it does

70

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

well, but you can’t help but feel they’ve got the proportions all wrong: heaps of salad, massive baguettes, but only a thin little ‘dog’ in the middle. $ Krowarzywa (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 516 894 767 Even committed meat eaters concede there’s something special here. This is a burger bar with a difference: the stuff between the bun is vegan – and way superior to the majority of ‘proper’ burger bars. Very popular with the local hipsters, so anticipate bewildering fashion statements and eccentric hair. $ Lokal Vegan Bistro (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122, The interior looks a little like a New Age milk bar, the kind that’s left the design down to IKEA, but looking at the above-counter menu you soon realize there’s more to this place than meets the eye. While you can’t say the food is ‘meat imitation’ the schabowy is a whole lot better than some of the chops we’ve had in our time. And then there’s the kebab, seasoned with seitan, that goes some way to proving fast food doesn’t need to be junk food. $ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, lovinghut.waw.pl What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. $

Mango Vegan Street Food (D4) ul. Bracka 20 Everything vegan that you’d actually like to eat: veggie burgers, fries, falafel, soup, a fruit salad – here, obviously a mango salad. Especially recommended is the hummus with sun-dried tomatoes – a nice twist on a simple classic dish.

Totomato (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34, totomato.pl A one-time contestant of the Top Chef program, chef Marcin Piotrowski grabs the limelight once more with his reemergence at Totomato.

Branded a ‘deli, bistro and culinary academy’, this standout champions ideas of slow food and healthy living: the Mazurian farmed snails are exceptional. $$ Vegan Pizza (D5) ul. Poznańska 7 While the place lacks effort on the design front (a plain room with local radio piped around), the pizza is pretty good. There’s 24 to pick from, and while it’s not love at first bite, there’s a tendency to get strangely hooked by the new tastes and alien sensations. Definitely an interesting departure from the high street pizzerias. $ W Gruncie Rzeczy (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 692 464 489 In culinary terms it’s the polar opposite of neighbors Meat Love, though the patrons are much the same: local hipsters and cool kids. For those who treat their body like a chapel, the vegetarian menu is a gateway to a balanced diet. And it’s tasty, which always helps.

cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTEWORTHY

ODETTE TEAROOM (ul. Twarda 2/4, odette.pl) If you thought those living in Warsaw’s swankiest residential tower – the Cosmopolitan – had it tough, then you’ve got one more reason to envy them: the ground floor Odette Tearoom. Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul. Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere.

bakeries Aromat (C4) ul. Sienna 39 We’re told the interiors were purposefully kept neutral to keep the focus on the product – and crikey, what bread.

French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. Some claim it’s the best bakery in Poland, and we’re not arguing.

Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to linger.

Petit Appetit (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45 The smell of freshlybaked loaves often wafts into the street, leaving passers-by with no option but to peer in – sweet temptation. And sweet is the right word: aside from divine baguettes check the pastries and brioches.

SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, sam.info.pl A central, communal table is flanked by smaller satellite tables for parties of two to four while perky seasonal blooms and potted herbs lend a spark of freshness. Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired by Raymond Blanc.

cafés CZEKOLADOWY (ul. Bagno 2, czekoladowy.eu) First launched in Lublin in 2011, expanding to the capital was always on the cards. Set in a modern, glassfronted unit, Czekoladowy has won blanket praise for its stunning cakes, pralines, truffles and chocolate. Demonstrating a fine eye for detail, the creations of Jakub Przysucha are pure luxury and the perfect antidote to a chilly Warsaw day.

Bar Studio (C4) Pl. Defilad 1 The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs.

It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace that looms above.

It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. www.warsawinsider.pl

71

listings / cafés & wine bars Bułkę przez Bibułkę (E8) ul. Puławska 24, tel. 794 000 634, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, bycmoze. com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25 Maybe resurrecting a legend wasn’t such a good idea after all. People once traveled from all across Warsaw to meet here, but after several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management it’s a mere shadow of what it once was. Shame. A place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, it just needs people to stir it into life.

Cophi (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60 Deviating away from ‘the Warsaw look’ (i.e. concrete, pipes, etc.), Cophi is the kind of place you actually want to stay in: homey and intimate but at the same time light and modern. You can sense the thought and passion behind this operation from the staff – find them using Aeropress, Chemex, siphon and drip methods with almost scientific precision in their quest to serve you what some are already claiming to be Warsaw’s best coffee.

Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19 Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake? If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level.

Cukiernia Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, restauracjastarydom. pl A beautifully elegant confectionary that evokes memories of Old Poland. Flock wallpaper and checkered floors add to the high tea ambience, as do the lines of glinting bottles and a counter stocked with

72

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

temptations. Pastry chef Mariusz Palarczykow is a king in his field.

Cupcake Corner (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, cupcakecorner.pl Having made their name in Kraków, the Americaninspired Cupcake Corner arrive in Warsaw ready to go head-to-head with cupcake giants La Vanille. Creations here include chocolate chip cookie, peanut butter cup, and Oreo, with muffins and homemade ice cream (sweet carrot!) also available. ‘We bake happiness,’ they proclaim, and indeed they do.

Czuła Buła (D8) ul. Narbutta 16 With its whitewashed bricks and potted greenery Czuła Buła looks just about like every other café that’s opened this year. Exceedingly pleasant as a summer spot, hats get tipped for their sandwiches, desserts and fruit concoctions. If you’re in the ’hood, why not check it out.

Czuły Barbarzyńca ul. Dobra 31, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling.

Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital.

Drop Juice Bar ul. Sienna 81 (enter from Żelazna), drop. waw.pl mWhether your body is a temple or a dustbin, squeeze in a visit to the Drop Juice bar (enter through the slidey door leading to the MD Clinic). Specializing in cold pressed juices, smoothies and superfoods, they make a point of using natural products only. Expect no artificial additives, no pasteurizing and no water cheating its way into your drink.

Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural.

Filtry Café (A6) ul. Niemcewicza 3, filtrycafe.pl Filtry Cafe’s

got great coffee, fruit shakes, cakes, and light breakfasts combined with a funky fleapit atmosphere that attracts hipster art lovers.

Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30 An attractive modern cafe whose primary talking point is the terrace: a colorful affair shaded by dozens of umbrellas dangling from above.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt.

Kawiarnia Fabryczna ul. Fabryczna 28/30, open 7:30-22:00, www.kawiarniafabryczna.pl Penning your memoirs? Here’s the place to do so. With its natural wood floors, muted lighting and retro style chairs, Fabryczna is just about the definitive Powiśle café. Order an Ethiopian drip coffee and get that notepad out.

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, klubokawiarnia.net Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors. Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, screenings and art happenings have made it into something of local cultural mainstay.

Krucza 23 Café & Bakery ul. Krucza 23 They didn’t spend much time thinking about the name, that’s a given, but that’s not to say creativity is entirely absent.

There’s lots of organic activity on the menu, plus an exciting spread of eco-coffee from far-flung nations. Find all this done in a post-industrial interior that makes use of lots of concrete and natural light.

Latający Obiekt (D7) Oleandrów 3, “I like Frisbee, I like beer – that’s why I created this place,” so says Piotr, the owner. Made in Canada Frisbees come in all colors and shapes (even mini-size for mutts), and are complimented by regional beers and homemade biscuits. A bizarre find

listings / cafés & wine bars in Poland – likely the first of its kind.

Legal Cakes ul. Chłodna 2/18, legalcakes.com ‘No need to cheat’ chirps their motto. Proclaiming to be the first of its kind in Poland, Legal Cakes specialize in gorgeous cakes and assorted desserts – the difference being these are all made from completely natural and healthy ingredients. Occupying a pinkish, feminine space just off Chłodna street, their own-made chocolate / fruit ‘batons’ are an essential takeout item.

Limoni Canteri 1952 (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1 & ul. Zwycięzców 49 Appearing as a wooden cabin in an overgrown park (someone, clear it up please), Limoni get noted for Italian gelato that’s too good for words – join the line for tastes like cherry, plum and redcurrant, or go edgy and experimental with flavors such as salmon, tomato or basil.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy.pl Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe.

BEST WAWA 2014 “Coffee” MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day.

And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall.

MOD ul. Oleandrów 8 A place full of everlasting

love for the humble donut. Inspired by their travels to New York, owners Kamila and Patrycja have filled a hole in the market by creating a cool spot that’s committed to natural ingredients and the artisan process.

Those glistening technicolors you see are down to the use of fresh fruit and dried flowers! Soft and chewy, enjoy dazzling flavors such as mango or hibiscus. my’o’my (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), myomy.pl Slightly rustic in design, with wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor.

The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Odette ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl Almost holistic in its ambience, the obstacle-free interior utilizes aspects of space and light, causing attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that Piotr Chylarecki’s sweet creations glimmer behind glass like precious little gems.

Constructed in the adjoining ‘food lab’, these are desserts fit to grace fine dining moments.

Odette Tearoom ul. Twarda 4, odette.pl If you thought those living in Warsaw’s swankiest residential tower – the Cosmopolitan – had it tough, then you’ve got one more reason to envy them: the ground floor Odette Tearoom. Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul.

Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere.

OSiR ul. Tamka 40 OSiR’s manifesto declares it a ‘cycle culture’ café, which means incoming guests should brace for all kinds of bike related props in this urban, raw and ready www.warsawinsider.pl

73

listings / cafés & wine bars hideout. Beyond the cycling propaganda, there’s much to recommend: rare find beers, street-style hot dogs, and a cool, tranquil crowd that livens up for DJ sets at the weekend from the likes of London Massive and Kool & the Funk.

Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while autumn sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait.

The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Resort ul. Bielańska 1 The main talking point here is a design that utilizes shopping trollies and street signs to serve as chairs and tables, and a pile of second-hand books to form the bar – there’s even a sofa constructed from a bathtub! Themes of recycling are taken to the limit in Resort, yet for all that it never looks junky or cheap. Concerts and comedy nights keep business ticking on quieter days.

Secret Life ul. Słowackiego 15/19 You might already be familiar with Secret Life of Things, a fab design store on the other end of town. Now the same minds have expanded their offer to include this café, a delightful spot that opened in summer. The deckchairs outside may have gone but the hype lingers on: an eclectic design marries a Scandinavian look to an eccentric spirit, while unpasteurized beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu do the rest.

Sok Bar ul. Tamka 22/24, sokbar.com The star turn belongs to the juices and smoothies, which you’ll find served in a variety of ways: including 50ml shots. Look out for the ‘Hangover’,

74

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

a combination of orange, gherkin, apple and lemon juice – it really is capable of healing after-party maladies.

Square 5 (C2) Pl. Bankowy 3/5 Square 5 comes as a pleasant surprise amidst the desert that is Pl. Bankowy. Combine their extensive blackboard menu with a countertop heavy with freshly-baked goods from their own oven and you newcomers may be positively overwhelmed. As for their coffee, that’s premium Ionia il Caffe, and it comes in all forms: from the traditional cappuccino to more daring coconut macchiato.

Stor ul. Tamka 33 Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café. Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about.

Sueño Café & Tapas Bar ul. Oboźna 9/100 The simple décor, inspired by a traveller’s way of living, provides a casual yet lively atmosphere. Surfboards and beach photographs decorate the walls and hammocks hang from the ceilings. The owners, kite surfers and avid travellers, have combined ideas from various different countries – evident not only in the décor but also in the menu.

Tarabuk ul. Browarna 4, tarabuk.pl “I come here to escape Warsaw,” confides one Insider. And yeah, there’s a quality to Tarabuk that allows one to do just that. Heaving with books and raggedy furniture, it’s a place in which to order an eco-tea, maybe a slice of cake, open Chapter 12 and then let hours slip away.

Think Love Juices ul. Francuska 14, thinklove.pl Nutrition nut and supermodel Anna Jagodzińska reveals the secrets of her diet in this white-clad, summery-looking Saska café. As the name indicates, juice plays a massive part in that, with the rotating choice presenting a range of drinks that run from watermelon water all the way up to complex concoctions that ignore any shortcuts. The daily changing lunch deals are superb, but leave you in no doubt just why models are so skinny.

Waff-Love (E4) ul. Senatorska 28, wafflove.pl Upon entering

the petit premises the homey waft of sweet crispy batter hits your senses, and while the waffles are less sweet than your traditional Belgian product, after a mountain of toppings you’d be hard pushed to notice. Kiss dietary resolutions goodbye...

WakeCup Café (C1) ul. Franciszkańska 14, wakecupcafe.pl A superb discovery landed in the no-man’s land that straddles New Town and Muranów.

WakeCup don’t believe in taking coffee shortcuts (recommended: raspberry frappe), and have a fiendish obsession with beans from Brazil. Also notable and noteworthy for their fruity cocktails, pastries and energetic café buzz.

Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16 Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’. It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

Wrzenie Świata ul. Gałczyńskiego 7 Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its book-lined interior.

Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars.

Znak Zapytania (E9) ul. Puławska 42 Zap is the kind of place you wished you had next door: lively, a little hidden and carefully decorated: bricks walls, contemporary sofas and zippy graphics. Drinks include the botanical tastes of Fentimans, homemade lemonades and artisan beers, and to go with those there’s a daily menu big on seasonal produce.

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the

listings / cafés & wine bars Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch. BEST WAWA 2014 “Wine Bar” Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking points aren’t limited to the interiors alone. The wine selection was personally overseen by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most esteemed wine importer in the country. And the choice is prodigious.

Offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls.

Charlotte (D6) ul. Aleja Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl.

Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Mac technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar.

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds.

Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, jungilecker.pl Some think of this as a neighborhood wine bar – they’re clearly privileged, because if everyone had a Jung & Lecker next door it’d be a kind world indeed. While the courtyard garden is a highlight, even in the sub-zero season there’s reason to swing by. Offering an intimate atmosphere and a strong menu, the finishing touch is provided by way of wines sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 The gentrification of Zbawiciela continues with the appearance of Heritage, a place of tap wines, cobbled

floors, and simple, well-thought interiors.

With its crates, boxes, cans and tins, Heritage fill a binary role as a deli/wine store for an ascendant new money crowd.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire.

Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool.

Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, zurawina.eu Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:0018:00. Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve earned a staunchly loyal following that includes high flying types and Paris Hilton wannabes that carry dogs in their bag.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: a concise menu that’s never too complex and an exciting wine choice that presents over 500 labels. This vibrant space promises much, not least on account of an inner terrace deck that you know is going to be the talk of this summer.

Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, portucale.pl The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ VinoTrio ul. Marszałkowska 76, vinotrio.pl Specializing in French, Spanish and Italian wine, VinoTrio touts price points that appeal to all incomes – bottles begin at zł. 30. Despite the small footprint the choice is extensive and the ambiance congenial.

French Bistro Cafe Bakery Nowy Świat 27 Phone: 22 826 44 61 www.petitappetit.com.pl Open Mon - Sun 8:00 - 23:00

Wejman ul. Zgoda 4, wejmanwinebar.pl The owners cooperated closely with acclaimed importer Guillaume Deliancourt to assemble a stock list dominated by Southern European – especially French – and New World wine. Try before you buy at this hotly trending wine bar.

WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, winkolekcja.pl The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge. www.warsawinsider.pl

75

nightlife NEW & NOTABLE

BAR GEMBA (ul. Wilcza 50/52) Despite occupying the bottom corner of an office development Gemba isn’t short of character: that is, at least, if you measure character by the number of thrift store armchairs and vintage extras. Furbished with lampshades, luggage and varying odds and ends, it’s the kind of dark, debauched bar that trended amongst artsy Poles in the early 00s. Replacing the downcast Jedna Trzecia, Gemba slots in well amongst the other post-hipster bars in the area.

bars & pubs 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Taking its lead from the New York fad for covert bars, the 6 adventure begins in front of a heavy arched gate. Ring the bell, await the buzz of approval and then find yourself summoned into rambling apartment that feels sultry and sensual.

Complete with a shadowy smoking lounge and a whirlpool tub in the bathroom, it’s the best secret in Warsaw. To enjoy the bespoke cocktails yourself, message them on Facebook and await your invite…

Bar & Books (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Seen through a thin autumnal mist, this white townhouse radiates warmth: lights glimmer, piano music tinkles. Wood-paneled and lined with leather-bound tomes, there’s a sense of dignity that’s unique to Warsaw’s cocktail scene. There’s humor, as well, courtesy of portraits of chimps togged out like 18th century gentry. Similar to a members’ only Mayfair bar, find ‘classic with a twist’ cocktails mixed and muddled by the sort of charming bartenders you’d trust serving Bond.

Bazar (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13 There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

LAB THE LIVE ACT BAR (ul. Bracka 25, barlab.pl) There’s an ad hoc nature to Lab, and that begins with the decor: geometric floor patterns, a breezeblock bar and retro-style tables and chairs. This individualistic temperament is further enhanced by various events that range from yard sales to concerts.

But it’s as a club that Lab has gained attention, with its management pursuing a music policy that renounces the mainstream.

76

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Berlin-Warszawa Express (D5) Most Poniatowskiego (corner of Krucz-

listings / nightlife kowskiego and al. 3 Maja) Set up a flight of stairs, a concrete footbridge at the top links the two bars either side: Berlin and Warszawa. It’s a Matrix moment, the red pill or the blue? Berlin’s the better, with industrial cage lights, and salvaged DDR memorabilia. Surveying the scene, it’s all wobbly tables, sticky surfaces and tight little alcoves fitted into impossible spaces. A great dive bar, the friendly nature of Berlin gets even friendlier after a few craft brews.

Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd.

What has remained constant is the energy.

Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), ul. Nowy Świat 64, ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, bierhalle.pl Having tapped their first beer six or seven years back, their microbrewery have morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All three Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins.

British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, bbpub.pl In terms of aesthetic it’s the most accurate replica of an English pub you’ll find. And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager. Judging by the poor standards of beer and food, you might want to follow their example. What could have become an expat legend is, in essence, a big wet plop of disappointment.

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl

Browarmia (D3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, browarmia.pl A brewery first and foremost – and an average one at that – full of pipes, valves and mysterious gauges. They still do their own brewing, but conscious of the shift towards artisan beer they’ve now also added around twenty taps to their offer. The choice is a little more pedestrian than the competition, but is nonetheless a pleasant sign of changing times. That it looks, feels and smells like a brewery makes it all the more welcome.

Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:0024:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, bubbles.com. pl Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles.

Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland. Some

www.warsawinsider.pl

77

listings / nightlife come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29.

Fourpure. Less nerdy than their original, expect the latest Chmielarnia to hoover up bearded custom from nearby pl. Zbawiciela.

Ceska ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl Having promised to never return following an incident with a nincompoop waiter, we’ve done exactly the opposite… and become regulars! Views of scantily-clad shoppers wiggling down the street are one attraction, though the biggest is the Czech ‘tank’ pouring system. Order the mliko, a beer that’s all creamy froth that you can sink down in seconds.

Coctail Bar Max (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, barmax.pl Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word?

In this case, it’s a resounding yes. With its light wood touches and fruity montages Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with an alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in a miniature form. The only problem? By their very nature, cocktails aren’t concocted in two minutes flat – if it’s busy, waiting around is like Death by a Thousand Cuts.

Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), chmielarnia. waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager.

While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls.

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia.waw.pl With the tap war at its height, Chmielarnia hope to raise the stakes with their latest venture. Twelve taps and umpteen bottles comprise the offer, with a range of domestic and international players represented: among them Beavertown, Hoppin’ Frog and

Column Bar ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol) Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead.

For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is peerless. In summer, enjoy your drinks out in the beautifully tranquil courtyard.

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with

the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so new wave beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers.

Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary.

Bathed in a yellowish murk, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk!

There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

Dandys Bar & Art Kafe (D6) ul. Piękna 15, dandysbar.pl Dandys brings together the cream of Warsaw’s social scene inside a split-level bar that smacks of good times and high living: this is a place created with ‘super sexy’ in mind. The top quality cocktails are befitting of the people and philosophy.

Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl The vodka bar concept gets a new lease of life inside this glam and gleaming bar / restaurant. Find 250 artisan brands and a bar staff with the know how to improve the drinks further still: the cocktails are unmissable. It’s places like this that make you fall in love with Warsaw.

Elephant Belgian Pub (C1) ul. Freta 19 Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer

78

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

listings / nightlife kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all.

Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

Hard Rock Cafe (C5) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn

by Madonna.

Heritage Birreria Artigianale ul. Tamka 9 A new twist on the multi-tap concept: ten taps here, with the hook being the slant towards Italian (and British) breweries. Occupying a small corner unit, the atmosphere is such you don’t want to leave: big windows, nice staff, cool design – this lot have it licked.

Hoppiness (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31 You’re in good hands here – opened under the patronage of the Pracownia brewery, this small-scale operation goes beyond merely offering the beers of its sponsor. There’s 12 taps in all, a decent fridge to geek over, an ace burger and beer-based ice cream – hooray!

Hopsters (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45 (enter from ul. Nowolipki) You get the idea they could have done a bit more with the interior, though the tendency is to overlook this. After all, any bar that goes to the trouble of fitting twenty taps deserves a bit of leeway. And fine things they are, these taps of theirs. There’s usually a couple of foreign guests on the day-to-day menu (Mikeller, Lindemans), but the main draw is undoubtedly from domestic brew houses like AleBrowar and Artezan, not to mention rising stars such as Doctor Brew and Podgórz.

Jabeerwocky (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl Prices go from affordable all the way up to, ‘bloody hell, how much!?’ Find a staggering choice on pump, tap and in the fridges, with the international selection accrued by true aficionados: the beers are brill, and so are some of the beards. We’re still awaiting the promised garden, so in the meantime enjoy an appealingly coarse interior that features original tilework over 100 years old.

Karowa 31 (D3) ul. Karowa 31, warsawbarproject.com Warsaw’s original speakeasy grants access via a retractable door disguised as a VHS collection – how cool is that!? Maze-like in layout, the retro-looking Karowa 31 unravels to reveal a series of chambers concealed in shadow, though for all that the cocktails are the real draw: masterful creations composed

by Bram, the former manager of the London Cocktail Club.

Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, there are times in Kita Koguta where sitting at bar level is like watching Dexter’s Laboratory: the staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned, but that’s part of the thrill – for a failsafe, order the Viterbo Breakfast: it looks like something that came out of a drainpipe, but it’s delicious!

THE MOST REFRESHINGLY CIVILIZED PLACES TO MEETTM CIGARS & WHISKY

≈

WINE & CHAMPAGNE

≈

COCKTAILS & CUSINE

≈

TASTINGS

≈ PRIVATE EVENTS ≈

LOCATION SHOOTS PODWALE BAR AND BOOKS Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 225.599.199

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage.

Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code.

Visit Our LOcatiOns in new YOrk and Prague

www.barandbooks.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

79

listings / nightlife Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.legendsbar.pl Legends is slowly achieving legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Most of all though, the success is down to the sense of community fostered over long quiz nights, shouty karaoke competitions and Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut.

Miłość Kredytowa 9 ul. Kredytowa 9 Firstly, there’s the bar. It’s stunning: concrete slabs, a vertical wall of greenery and a DJ platform that doubles as a kitchen on weekends. The upstairs mezzanine is the best spot for voyeurs, and it’s here that a series of rooms unravel revealing a bookstore, deli and a lumbersexual barber shop. It is ultimately the bar that is the center force though, and it’s here you’ll find one-of-a-kind bottled cocktails that use natural ingredients, not to mention the full offer from Perła.

Multitap Bla Bla ul. Nowogrodzka 22, blabla.com.pl Looking murky and in need of a good scrub (and that’s just the glasses), you feel Bla Bla is simply here to suck up overspill from its more high-profile neighbors. Ten taps here, usually carrying beers you know inside out. But you will find a seat and there’s a kebab shop next door.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Oleandrów 3 (D6) ul. Oleandrów 3 Exploring themes of decadence and fallen splendor, this new opening cements Oleandrów’s status as one

80

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

of Warsaw’s rising streets. Looking dark and disheveled, this busy nightspot is already earning a name for libertine shenanigans.

The blackboard menu touts an unlikely combo of ‘hot dogs and champagne’ – watch others follow suit.

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a well-to-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, patera.com.pl Patera fill a binary role: first as an Asian eatery, and second as a cocktail bar. And my, what cocktails. Offering several classics, and a few modern creations, the Ginger Peach Collins became our cocktail of choice during summer 2014. The reopening of Świętokrzyska should lead a few more people through the door – they’ll like what they see.

Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul.

Parkingowa), open 24 hrs We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells and queue scrum. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an end-of-term street party.

Piw Paw na Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 16, piwpaw.pl If the original Piw Paw was marketed as a ‘hyper tap’ then what’s their sister on Foksal? There’s 97 taps (!!) though one gets the sense its more about numbers than quality – we’ve seen Beck’s, for Pete’s sake. Getting service can be a nightmare, and while there’s a smoking

room, it’s got the warmth and ambience of a night down the police station.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Pociąg do Piwa ul. Dereniowa 2 Jumping onto the multi-tap bandwagon is Pociąg do Piwa, a smallish locale whose one design element is a steam engine traced into the wall using bottle tops.

There’s 12 taps in all, and they primarily distribute cult Polish beers from the likes of Pinta and AleBrowar.

Polonez (D5) ul. Poznańska 24 Sparse milk bar chic is set against plenty of oddities (black and white Cybulski films, a set of antlers, hordes of junk), but the cool aesthetics only tell a part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio drinks and regional tipples. The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative.

Same Krafty (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10 Set across two small, rugged rooms, Same Krafty gets populated by an organic combination of tourists, couples and beer enthusiasts. There’s ten taps from which to choose, and a fridge with several interesting international beers. The Old Town doesn’t have much to shout about when it comes to nightlife, so Same Krafty’s debut is more than welcome.

Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66 Most part restaurant, bit part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally hangout – not always in that order. And as for the drinks, they’re really very good. Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of must-try cocktails.

Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, restauracjasloik.pl Słoik looks bright, loud and vibrant, so it’s no surprise to learn their cocktail maestros specialize in maverick creations. A source of particular

listings / nightlife pride are drinks that celebrate Poland: we’re talking about vodkas infused with juniper and vanilla, then mixed with marmalades and other exotica like pickled cucumber juice. The tastes are unique and leave you bandy-legged and shouting for more.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

restaurant decorated with art that’s both sensual and suggestive. Behind the bar, homemade syrups, seasonal ingredients and high caliber alcohol are all present, but so to the most important component: the staff who can handle them. Try the Polish Colada: involving Bols Natural Yogurt, Pawlina vodka, pineapple, lemon and sprinkling of chocolate, it’s a superb drink that does a grand job of rehabilitating a largely derided classic.

The View ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/ club looks set to reinvent the whole concept of going out in Warsaw. A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. The look you need is sleek and stylish.

Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, syrenispiew.pl Set in a beautifully restored piece of PRL concrete, Syreni Śpiew’s lasting popularity has proved the doubters wrong. This is not some one season wonder, rather a place that has gone from strength to strength. Primarily known for its hefty whisky offer (which is divided into regions of Scotland, Ireland and Japan), the cocktails also stand up to scrutiny on account of their consistent quality. A genuinely unique drinking experience with cool elements of retro chic.

W Oparach Absurdu ul. Ząbkowska 6 Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests.

Varso Vie Pl. Konstytcuji 2, varso-vie.pl A cool bar /

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl

Warsaw’s premier sports pub: and it’s not just the extent of their sporting offer that elevates WTF, but the atmosphere. Whether it’s international rugby, or Bristol City on a Tuesday night, the tension, camaraderie and horseplay are unmatched. On the occasions when there is no sport, swing by for live bands and a lively atmosphere fueled by a heady mix of ex-pats, international students, and natives of all ages.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as a hipster Center of Power, you’ll know if you belong.

Weles (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11 A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals.

Zamieszanie ul. Nowy Świat 6/12 Cuda Na Kiju have built on their continuing success by adding this

www.warsawinsider.pl

81

listings / nightlife spot in the glass block next to their tap pub.

Here though it’s cocktails that are the draw.

Pre-bottled in a secret room downstairs, meaning none of the ad-libbed artistry of other cocktail bars, and tastes that are closer in line to 90s alcopop drinks than anything else. That doesn’t stop a young crowd from swamping the place come the weekend.

clubs Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, enklawa.com Forget

GREAT FOOD AMAZING COCKTAILS FREQUENT LIVE PERFORMANCES WONDERFUL SERVICE ROCK’N’ROLL EXPERIENCE ON SATURDAYS 10:00pm-2:00pm

OLD SCHOOL

DANCE PARTY THE BEST OF 50’S & 60’S ALONG WITH GREATEST HITS OF ALL TIME:

ROCK’N’ROLL, SOUL, R’N’B, POP, ROCK FREE ENTRANCE

10% unt* disco

WARSAW | ZŁOTE TARASY | UL. ZŁOTA 59 TEL. +48 22 222 07 00

*Show this advert and get 10% discount on food, nonalcoholic beverages or merchandise**.

Valid till December 31th, 2015. ** For purchases over 150 PLN.

82

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost.

Klubo ul. Czackiego 3/5, open Weds-Sat 22:007:00, klubo.pl There are those places that try to be edgy, and those that just are. Klubo falls into the latter. Dark and vibrant, there’s an irresistible energy here that manifests itself in unforgettable nights that culminate at dawn. Leave inhibitions at the door, and writhe with the rest in a series of deep reddish rooms banging out disco, house and R&B. Check their web for their numerous deals and offers.

Level 27 Al. Jerzolimskie 123 (Millennium Building), level27.pl Set on the 27th floor of the Millennium Building, Level 27 promises a world class clubbing experience with open air views of the city down below. In more ways than one, you’ll rarely feel closer to the stars.

gentleman’s clubs Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”). Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

Sofia (D6) ul. Polna 13, klubsofia.pl A.k.a The Bulgarian Embassy, Sofia have rebuilt the reputation earned during their city center heyday in the naughty noughties. Sure, the atmosphere is more restrained than in their former location, but the dancers aren’t.

live music

Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl Feeling naughty?

Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river: check their facebook for a full schedule. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now.

Klub 12/14 ul. Piwna 12/14 Sometimes you’ve got to ask, just where are all the jazz bars? Well, at last the void has been filled with the entry of Klub 12/14 on the market. A schedule of daily evening concerts, a decent uncomplicated menu and a smart white design make it a welcome addition to the Old Town.

Sen Pszczoły ul. Grochowska 301/305, senpszczoly.pl Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out. Check their website for a detailed rundown of events.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

shopping accessories Agent Provocateur ul. Mokotowska 59, tel. 22 273 6162, agentprovocateur.com The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. And if that’s not enough, they’ve got sexy stockings, silk robes, perfume, satin gloves, a blindfold and nipple tassels…

INSIDER PICK: WAWA BLA BLA To think, it all began with Facebook. Back in 2013, Gill Boelman-Burrows set up the page Wawa Bla Bla to document her love of the street art found on the walls of Warsaw. Unbeknownst to her at the time, this decision would shape her life – spurred by the positive reaction to it, a book followed last December, quickly becoming a cult collector’s item and coffee table must-have. Now, the biggest step of them all has been made: a small gift store (“my own little fishbowl!” says Gill) in funky Powiśle.

“What I wanted to do,” says the Brit, “was to depart from the traditional gift store idea, and instead present gifts ‘from the streets’ while also promoting those young artists who want to show their work.” The result is a comfortable nook where passers-by can pop in and browse the treasures on display over coffee (sometimes even wine!). These include Gill’s own framed photos of Warsaw’s graffiti, but also items from the artists themselves: silkscreen prints from trending names like Scandalist, stencil and spray work courtesy of Maniac, canvases from Dawid Majgat and the brilliantly quirky map prints of Valeria Lenner. You’ll even find the occasional piece from the internationally recognized NeSpoon (in fact, you’ll find one of her works adorning the wall outside). “Above anything else,” says Gill, “we want to support those young, brave artists that are changing Warsaw.”

And it’s not just bits of art. The whole gift store concept means the shop is peppered with unconventional keepsakes that range from cool paper bags to postcards with a difference to Warsaw-themed coffee cups. Highly affordable, personal and defiantly eccentric, this creative space puts the ‘pow’ into Powiśle. Check for yourself at: ul. Dobra 15 (facebook.com/wawa.blabla).

Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów)The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections.

Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances.

Batycki (various locations), batycki.pl Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite.

BeautyLab Polska beautylabpolska.pl Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care.

Calvin Klein ul. Mysia 3 Poland’s first Calvin Klein concept store is dedicated to watches, jewelry and assorted beautiful shiny things that everyone covets.

Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, chiara-online.pl You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry. www.warsawinsider.pl

83

listings / shopping Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3 The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula.

Le Galerie Parisienne ul. Wilcza 8, facebook. com/lagalerieparisienne The kind of store Warsaw needs more of: sourced by a French / Polish couple, the imaginative items include beautiful jewelry and hand-painted brooches, all the way to antique design pieces to individualize your home.

Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, mo61.pl Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space.

Stetson ul. Mysia 3, stetson.pl Head to the second floor to find this purveyor of quality Americana. Hats and caps in abundance, not to mention rereleased classics to coincide with the firm’s 150th birthday.

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range. For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

fashion American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia) & ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style.

EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, emcashmere.pl Available

84

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years.

A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsaw-stamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com Brands: Alexandre Vauthier, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Pierre Balmain, Ralh Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

Pan Tu Nie Stal Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands: Christian Louboutin, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Valentino, Yves Salomon, Pierre Balmain, Beach Bunny, Kotur, Marc by Marc Jacobs, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Victoria Beckham.Kolekcje dla dzieci: Baby Dior, Dolce&Gabbana Kids, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Premiere Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72 The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace.

Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both

emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka.

Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, www.reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique. Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200?

Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28 Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a onestop shop to re-boot your wardrobe.

Teresa Rosati Al. Witosa 31 (Panorama), teresarosati.com. pl Elegant cocktail dresses, gowns for special occasions and beautiful fabrics from one of Poland’s best-known designers. Ready-towear and custom-made services at discreet location in Sadyba by appointment.

Fashion Van Thorn ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 243 7377, vanthorn. pl Bespoke and made-to-measure suits as well as custom-made shirts and a range of accessories from ties and pocket squares down to shoes and cufflinks. The attention to detail, the quality and craftsmanship are staggering.

Viola Śpiechowicz ul. Kolejowa 55 (Łomianki), vsstore.eu/ violaspiechowicz.com Viola Spiechowicz is an inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative fashion designer who has cultivated her own original and inimitable style since her 1992 debut. Her designs are the result of a long search for the perfect form, texture and color scheme, lending each project its own

listings / shopping unique style: be it fashion, upholstery fabrics or accessory design.

Wake Up The Bear ul. Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz.

Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes.

malls & department stores

home

Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl

Le Pukka ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver.

Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, tel. 22 389 8600, open Mon-Thur 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. kencenter.pl

Magazyn Praga ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), magazynpraga.pl A visit to this home design store is guaranteed to transform your apartment. Showcasing emerging Polish talent, the items here are not without humor: ceramic French bulldogs are particularly popular.

The Warsaw-themed photo montages by artist Katarzyna Osipowicz are riveting, and a surefire conversation starter.

Makutra ul. Oleandrów 5, makutra.com To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware. noon/noon ul. Pańska 98 (enter from ul. Prosta), noonnoon.pl Well-balanced as a coffee bar / showroom where you can interact and experience the functionality and quality of the furniture first hand.

Product Placement ul. Leszczyńska 12, polishdesignnow.com Anyone doubting Poland’s growing reputation in the world of home design hasn’t been to Product Placement. Ceramics, furniture, textiles, kitchenware, bags and gadgets – everything is worth a look.

Reset Point ul. Puławska 48 sklep.resetpoint.pl A treasure trove of renovated antique furniture, vinyl clocks, 70s style handle-less PRL mugs and modern art prints of legendary

landmarks such as Dworzec Centralny and the Palace of Culture. Plenty of pieces and curios from upcoming and established domestic design studios.

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00,

placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, mysia3.pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, fashion from Nenukko and more.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13.

Wola Park (Wola) ul. Górczewska 124, tel. 22 533-4000, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.

gifts for him - professional advice for a highly personalized gift - unique best quality ties, flies, cufflinks and scarves - Gift Cards for all items ul. Sienna 39 tel. 22 243 7377 www.vanthorn.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

85

family activities Barwy Muzyki ul. Niecała 14, tel. 22 188 18 27, www. barwymuzyki.pl This informal music school, with highly qualified teachers experienced in the Colour Strings program, acknowledges not every child will be a professional musician but that playing, listening and singing to music is an asset to their development. Group or individual lessons on piano, violin, guitar, cello and flute for 6-12yrs.

VAN GOGH LIVE EXHIBITION (vangoghalive.pl) This multimedia exhibition promises to really put you in the picture, igniting all the senses and redefining the museum tour experience! Pulsating color images and moving lights will intensify the signature brush strokes and guide the visitor through the turbulent life of Van Gogh; go crazy under that Starry Sky in Saint-Rémy de Provence, explore the artist’s bedroom in the Auvers-sur-Oise asylum, wonder at his earless self-portrait or sniff the fabled Sunflowers. Running from 14th November until Valentine’s Day 2016, tickets are available from zł. 25.

Online reservations are recommended.

CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL PKIN (pictured) Charlie Bucket eat your heart out: for three days the Palace of Culture will turn into a mecca for sweet lovers and chocoholics. This International Festival of Chocolate promises to tickle our taste buds as well as make eyes bulge… and t ummies too. Exhibitors include the well-known Wedel, Pernigotti, Karmelkowo, La Vanille and many others, all of whom will present classics as well as unique works of art made from chocolate. There will be workshops for children, chocolate fashion shows, Europe’s largest chocolate model railway, cake decorations and tasting sessions. Runs from November 13th until November 15th with tickets costing from zł. 10.

MAPPING WILANOW PALACE (wilanow-palac.pl) For several years now Wilanow Palace and it’s impeccable gardens have been host to a three-dimensional show combining light, images and sound. The façade of the Palace and other architectural elements are used to create jaw dropping illusions. This year’s show ‘Tale of the Royal Snatch’ takes a walk in the Magic Garden of the King. Open daily from 4 p.m. till 9 p.m. Tickets zł. 5/10 (under 7’s free). (GBB)

86

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

Fryzjerkowo ul. Foksal 12/14, tel. 22 827 2744, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00, www.fryzjerkowo.pl This 100% child friendly hair salon with jungle theme interior will guarantee no tears! Whilst having their locks chopped children sit in a toy car and watch a favorite DVD. Mum can peruse the retro toys and classic books on sale. Owner speaks excellent English. Advance booking recommended.

Fundacja Atelier ul. Foksal 11, 22 826 8813 or 22 826 9589, open Mon-Fri 10:00- 20:00, Sat 9:30-20:30, www.atelier.org.pl Situated in an atmospheric 19th century building this foundation organizes affordable/flexible workshops to develop and inspire art education and creative skills (painting/drawing/sculpture/ art history) for children, young people and adults.

Gym Generation ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Centrum Olimpijskie, floor 4), tel. 502 092 695, gymgeneration.pl A professionally developed curriculum that offers your child a range of experiences, providing new and exciting activities each time and engaging them in

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

ESSENTIAL EVENTS!

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, www.kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

listings / family physical challenges, a variety of games and team puzzles. There’s a maximum of 15 kids to a class, with one instructor for every five children.

Hangar 646 ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl Children with excessive energy levels should head to Hangar 646. Located in a former airport hangar, the 2,700 sq/m of trampoline space includes a swimming pool of sponges.

Children from three years old are welcome to let off steam, with instructors available to teach acrobatics and suchlike; or you can just bounce off walls!

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728 Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

Manufaktura Cukierów ul. Tamka 49 (enter from Ordynacka), open Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-17:30; Sun 13:00-17:30, tel. 692 888 751, www.

manufaktura-cukierkow.pl Sweet making courses in a confectionary factory! Lessons are conducted in Polish, though enthusiasm is more important than a mastery of the language.

Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless.

For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web.

HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 74 00, open Mon-Tue 12:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-4:00; Sun 10:00-24:00, www.hulakula.com.pl Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools.

Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu.

Little Chef ul. Bałuckiego 30/1, tel. 501 093 691, www.littlechef.pl (visit for more information) Cooking classes for children age 3-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook and eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English and Polish, Mon-Sat.

American School of Warsaw is hosting an Open House for prospective families.

Come experience us in action!

• Tour the school • Interact with administrators, faculty and students • Receive admissions information AUGU ST

SEPT EMBE R

NOVE MBER

26 30 25 20 Bielawa, ul. Warszawska 202 05-520 Konstancin Jeziorna, Poland www.aswarsaw.org

ASW open house.indd 1

MARC H

JANUARY

November 25th

9:00–11:00

2

APRIL

MAY

13 18

R.S.V.P. admissions@aswarsaw.org

14.07.2015 14:1787 www.warsawinsider.pl

listings / family education preschools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/ or to visit our school, contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, www.bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate.

Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. Currently, admission is offered to children between 2 and 9 years old for 2015/16.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel.

22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.pl,

88

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 30 months to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

The British School of Warsaw in Wilanów ul. Hlonda / Ledóchowskiej, tel. 781 988 000, bsww.pl The school is affiliated with University of Cambridge International Examinations which mandates the educational program, qualifications and examinations for pupils up to 19 years of age. Currently admission is offered only to children between 2 and 7 years old (Nursery and Reception, Year 1 levels) for 2014/15. Older children are encouraged to submit application for 2015/16 or 2016/17.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000 all children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.ecolemontessori.pl The preschool is located in the Saska Kępa district and provides a Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 18 months to 6 years old.

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:0016.00, www.theenglishplayhouse.com The

listings / family English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old.

For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com The English Primary ul. Rzodkiweki 18, tel. 784 037 808, jnowak@tep. edu.pl An English primary school designed to prepare children for their next steps in education and life in a friendly, caring and nurturing environment. Following the English curriculum in a truly English primary school setting we take children from the international community through the key learning stages so they achieve to their best ability through a fun learning experience.

the opportunity to participate in gymnastics, music, art and drama classes. IPW serves the international community and prepares children for international education.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Elementary School ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, www.canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only schools authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual The International American School of education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, Preschool of Warsaw international staff, challenging materials and Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal ul. Kalatowki 24, (Konstancin-Jeziorna), setting for the highest standard of education. tel. 22 843 0964, ipw.edu.plIPW is located in tel. 22 702 85 00, www.

Extra-curricular activities include visual a residential area of Mokotów, within walking aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegearts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, distance of Królikarnia as well as both tram preparatory international school that offers art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, and metro lines. Children from 2.5 to 6 years a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, old are welcome. English is the language Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, spoken and breakfast, lunch and snacks are inspired and challenged every day by experiPolish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and CHILD PREMIUM EDUCAprovided during the day. Children alsoGIVE have YOUR enced and dedicatedA teachers, who provide more.

TION

GIVE YOUR CHILD A PREMIUM EDUCATION

www.thebritishschool.pl

founded in 1992

www.warsawinsider.pl

89

listings / family The Canadian School of Warsaw Middle School ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 885 420 044 / 885 620 066, secretary.olimpijska@canadian-school.pl, canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of PREIB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment.

For further info, tours and school visits call or email. Also home to the Non-Public PsychoPedagogical Counseling Centre ‘Olimpia’ (tel.

885 620 066) which examines the level of mental, emotional, auditory and visual-motor functions’ development, and conducts individual and group pedagogical therapy, as well as individual psychotherapy..

939 001, open Mon-Sat 10.30-19:00, Sun 11:00-19:00, www.figazmakiem.edu.pl One of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys section while your little ones romp in the kids room.

couple and its light and minimalist interior – designed by those who created R20 – lends itself to every occasion. But aside from its tasty and seasonal dishes, it’s the children’s corner that is causing the biggest commotion.

Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, tel. 692 448 112, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00, www.fikumikucafe.pl This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children. The focus is on films and creative workshops. Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection. Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children aged from 3 to eleven years old in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers.

Kalimba ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 22 839 75 60 or 501 183 953, open Mon-Fri 9:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00, www.kalimba.pl Kalimba café caters to Warsaw’s boho-chic community. Relax with long latte’s or nibble healthy snacks whilst kids climb a spiral staircase to the indoor tree house, role-play in the kitchen area or join creative workshops. The shop, with original handmade toys is tempting, but it’s the pick’n’mix candy that’s unavoidable!

Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, muppetshop.pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects (from 0 to the first-owned apartment). On top of that expect a wealth of other design products (kitchen accessories, decorations, toys, bags, books etc.) from carefully selected brands such as Quax, Lodger, Chispum, Shnuggle, Collegien, Jielde, Gubi and many more besides. It all serves to make it the No. 1 spot for your youngsters shopping.

cafes Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, tel. 512

90

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www.nabocafe.pl Nabo is run by a Danish

shops

Pieluszkarnia ul. Topiel 12, ul. Mandalińskiego 25, tel.

22 713 8275, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. www.pieluszkarnia.pl This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and Martello blankets personalized for births etc.

health & beauty cycling stores & service AveBmx ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 828 0213, avebmx. pl Cult BMX store in the hip Powiśle district.

Staffed by true enthusiasts who live the BMX lifestyle, it’s the No. 1 spot in Warsaw for those who see BMX as the only way to cycle.

Bikeman Al. Wyzwolenia 14, bikeman.pl On-road, x-road and off-road bikes, with brands including Alpina, Burley, Ergon and Giant.

Accessories include helmets, gloves, backpacks plus everything you need to revive your bike if it passes out.

5 OF THE BEST: ECO STORES BIOORGANIKA (pictured) (numerous locations, bioorganika.pl) Natural cosmetics and soaps from brands such as Logona, Make Me BIO, Hesh and Dabur – celebrated purveyors of Ayurvedic herbal products.

ECO ESTHETIQUE (ul. Gryzbowska 30, eco-esthetique.pl) Eco Esthetique specialize in beauty care products aimed at the conscientious modern man, woman and baby! Over 90% of the stock is nature-based, with the shelves touting items such as organic wrinkle creams, luxurious bath oils and kid’s toothpaste. Internet ordering available.

ORGANIC FARMA ZDROWIA (numerous locations inc. Złote Tarasy, Galeria Mokotów & CH Arkadia, organicmarket.pl) Nationwide chain which, whilst best known for its groceries, also carries a number of other products including organic facial wipes, Aloe Vera based cosmetics, natural hair oils and Manuka honey toothpaste.

TRAWA (Pl. Grzybowski 10) A tight little store whose surprisingly copious food offer (which includes fresh fruit and veg from local markets) is complemented by all kinds of natural unguents, balms, oils and suchlike including those from the celebrated Lavera brand. Highly recommended.

U FRANCISZKA (numerous locations inc. Pl. Wilsona 4, Francuska 10A & Koszykowa 30, ufranciszka.pl). ‘What nature has given the body and soul’ is the motto, so anticipate a comprehensive package of healthminded goods: L’Orient, Aleppo, Wardi Shan and Monoi Tiki are just a few of the brands present. Keep an eye out for the algae masks, floral waters, Arabic medicines and bath oils. Amazing!

Galeria Sztuki Rowerowej ul. Widok 10, tel. 507 202 572 Glorious bikes, many of them vintage, and many of them in colors that’ll make you the talk of the town. Not just affordable prices, they also promise to fix your bike for free should it suddenly conk out.

Wygodny Rower Various locations, tel. 888 498 498, wygodnyrower.pl Bike store and service center chain dealing with city bikes, fixed gear, single speed and road bikes. A huge range of bikes, running from Abus to Zefal via manufacturers such as Pashley, Fuji and Adriatica.

gyms Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning. www.warsawinsider.pl

91

listings / health & beauty Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel.

22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland.

Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun.

McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59 (floor 3, opposite McDonald’s), tel. 22 379 7777, open Mon-Fri 6:00-22:30; Sat 8:00-22:30; Sun 8:00-21:00, www. jatomifitness.pl The largest and fastest growing fitness chain in Poland currently has 35 locations and 117,000 members across the country. All clubs have new generation machines, innovative forms of group activities (Booiaka, Hot Yoga, Pure Pump, Pure Fire and Wah Gwan Dancehall) and professional personal trainers schooled in nutrition and the healthy lifestyle.

92

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Zodiak ul. Widok 26, tel. 22 100 3400, open 24hrs, www.jatomifitness.pl Poland’s fastest growing fitness chain has been recognized for excellence after being named SCF Leisure & Fitness Retailer of the Year 2014. Other Pure Jatomi clubs in Warsaw include: Blue City, Galeria Renova, Sadyba Best Mall, Promenada and Targówek.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

dental clinics ArtDental ul. Łucka 18, tel. 22 654 3006, artdental.pl Well-known among expats, ArtDental’s service is widely praised for its honest service and moderate prices. English speaking and moderately priced.

Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

DeClinic ul. Bernardyńska 16A, tel. 22 112 0400, declinic.pl Regarded as one of the most modern clinics in Europe, amongst other innovations DeClinic have swapped the traditional drilling process in favor of abrasive sandblaster – perfect for kids or those afraid of the dentist.

DentaLux ul. Racławicka 31 & Puławska 257, tel. 22 787 878, dentalux.pl Englishspeaking service available, as well as 24hr emergency consultations.

EuroDental Various locations, tel. 22 380 7000,

eurodental.pl English-speaking dentists on request. Lacking the ‘boutique’ charm of some of Warsaw’s more modish clinics, the service here is both efficient and moderately priced.

Elektoralna Dental Clinic ul. Elektoralna 28, tel. 22 620 2140, elektoralna.pl State-of-the-art dental clinic featuring Poland’s first dental tomograph.

Languages spoken include English, German, Spanish and Arabic.

Malo Clinic Domaniewska 37 (3rd floor), tel. 22 393 6333, www.maloclinics.com/polska This world class dental clinic incorporates five dental offices, an operating room, two recovery rooms and a state-of-the-art diagnostic center.

Odent ul. Nowoursynowska 145E (entry from ul.

Rosoła) & ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 405 4430, odent.pl Dubbed ‘the clinic with a heart’, Odent’s personal approach is complimented by expert staff and the latest and most advanced treatments and equipment.

English-speaking service also available.

medical clinics Damian Medical Center Various locations, see website for details: damian.pl Established in 1994, Damian offer a wide range of medical services in their hospital and five outpatient clinics. English spoken widely.

Lux Med Medical Clinics Various locations, see website for details: www.luxmed.pl Medicover Various locations, see website for details: medicover.pl Hugely popular amongst ex-pats, Medicover offer a wide range of membership schemes for both private and corporate clients. The jewel in their crown is a state-of-the-art hospital in the Wilanów district.

Therapy Warsaw ul. Filtrowa 69/13, tel. 601 532 319, www.therapywarsaw.com English-speaking therapy for couples and individuals dealing with relationships, eating disorders, trauma, stress and much more besides.

listings / health & beauty Warszawskie Centrum Zdrowia ul. Nowogrodzka 76, tel. 22 857 3014, www.wcz.waw.pl Specializes in the prevention, early detection and treatment of cardiovascular disease.

22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

spas & salons

Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-last guest, www.haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

Barberian Academy & Barber Shop ul. Emilii Plater 25 & ul. Koszykowa 9 Away from the black clouds of metrosexuality, Barberian is where men gather to celebrate being men. Lauded as the local champion of male grooming, this stand out has a rebel chic layout and barbers who are experts in their field.

Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.”

Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404 A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. Also on Elektoralna 24.

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160 or 784 677 618, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-15:00, bodyclinic.pl From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage.

The Hermit Barber Shop pl. Bankowy 1, thehermit.pl You know those London barber shops you see in 1930s film reels? That’s Hermit, a thrilling throwback right down to the barber’s pole and checkered flooring. But don’t be fooled, this is as upmarket as it gets, with top quality products and even some 16-year-old whisky with which to pair the experience.

Izar Repechage ul. Moliera 1, tel. 604 209 900 or 22 827 7195, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 8:00-14:00 A gorgeous city spa with a range of treatments for the whole body.

Komiks ul. Radna 12, tel. 881 436 056, komiks.waw. pl You know those weird haircuts that people like David Bowie and Lady Gaga have?

Well, here’s the place to make that ultimate fashion statement and get one yourself.

Henna art, manicure / pedicure also offered.

La Perla multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla.pl Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. For summer the right spa/salon/clinic is key. La Perla’s all three in one!

open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 9:00-16:00.

This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, tel. 22 240 6290, pardonmyfrench.pl The equipment here is state-of-the art, particularly the massage chairs for indulgent pedicures. While gel tips and all that hybrid stuff is all the rage now, it might be more prudent to get a classic mani/pedi to avoid beauty emergencies when you’re drifting in the middle of the Mediterranean on P. Diddy’s yacht.

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, tel. 22 241 3000 or 505 828 688, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.pedicure-place.pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Rostowski ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles.

Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers.

Spearside ul. Grzybowski 63, spearside.pl A male spa / salon offering massage, manicure, scrubs, physiotherapy and a range of treatments aimed at improving your ‘quality of life’. More modern-looking than the rest, hair and grooming solutions are provided by Maciej, a barber of exceptional talent.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414.

A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country.

La Plata ul. Wielicka 42, tel. 517 576 667, laplataspa.pl Manual and mechanized massage in a relaxed space inspired by Buddhist philosophy. Treatments include herbal stamp Thai massage and hot coconut oil massage amongst others.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00, www. jejijego.pl Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent, level -1), tel.

Le Spa ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428,

You & You Maciej Wróblewski ul. Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), www.warsawinsider.pl

93

listings / health & beauty tel. 606 994 226, youandyou.eu Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of.

sport

Warsaw International Triathlon Club warsawtriclub.com Serving the needs of the athletic community, the WITC is open to all interested in the disciplines of swimming, cycling and running.

BGZ Arena / Velodrome ul. Andrzeja 1 (Pruszków), tel. 22 738 8394, bgzarena.com Bring a cycling helmet and you too can take a spin around the velodrome in Pruszków. Bike hire possible, with spins priced at approximately at zł. 40 per hour. For further details enquire directly.

W Pionie ul. Nowowiejska 37B, wpionie.pl An 11 meter climbing wall founded by two mountaineers. Considered one of the most advanced facilities of its kind in the country, English-speaking instructors can be rustled up on request.

Frogs & Co. warsawfrogs.com While it originated as an expat team, Warsaw’s only social rugby club welcomes all: supporters, players, young, old, men and women. The rugby is taken seriously, and so too is the social side.

swimming

Hash House Harriers Billing themselves as ‘the drinking club with a running problem’, the Warsaw chapter of the Hash House Harriers meets every couple of weeks and welcomes runners and walkers of every level. Search for them on Facebook for further details.

Hobby Kicker Expat football team that meets each week on the 3G pitches at Centrum Futbolu Warszawianka (ul. Merliniego 2). All nationalities and levels of skills welcome. Search for Hobby Kicker – Warsaw on Facebook for details.

Sinnet Club ul. Gołkowska 2, tel. 22 550 3400, www. sinnet.pl An exclusive members sport club featuring full-size indoor tennis courts, two external courts, three squash courts, a 25 meter swimming pool plus spa and gym facilities.

supporters are welcomed – for details check their website.

Aquapark Wesolandia ul. Wspólna 4 (Wesoła), tel. 22 773 9191, wesolandia.pl Features a recreational pool, kids pool and a 25 meter pool for more serious swimmers. Also on-site, a water tube, Jacuzzi, tennis and fitness facilities.

Holmes Place Premier ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel.

22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, holmesplace. pl All the ‘premier’ outposts of Holmes Place tout swimming pools, though most agree it is the one in the Hilton branch that’s the best.

Enquire direct about membership fees.

Private Coaching Tel. 512 517 013, anthonypst.wix.com/ anthonypst Ozzie Anthony offers one-onone swimming classes conducted at your venue of choice. Fully qualified, he offers tailor-made lessons for all ages and all levels of proficiency: from total beginners to competitive swimmers.

Squash City Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (Blue City), tel. 22 499 6466, squashcity.pl Considered one of the top squash clubs in the country, Squash City covers an area of 1,000 sq/m, with six air-conditioned courts, shop, bar, etc.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel.

22 328 86 40, riverview.com.pl Another members only pool, and this one is really worth the membership cost – it’s the highest pool in Europe. Stunning views of Warsaw make this a swim to remember.

Warsaw Cricket Club ul. Romatyczna 3 (Panorama Country Club), warsawcricketclub.pl The oldest cricket club in the country is mainly comprised of Brits, Poles and South Asians. New members and

Wodny Park ul. Merliniego 4, tel. 22 854 0130, wodnypark.com.pl When looking for a pool, most look no further: on-site find an Olympic swimming pool, recreational pool complete

94

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

with artificial river, slides and tubes, a Russian ‘banya’ zone, not to mention other attractions like bowling and squash courts.

yoga & pilates Astanga Yoga Studio ul. Gałczyńskiego 4, tel. 22 465 8810, astanga.pl Established in 2005, this studio specializes in ashtanga and also offers physiotherapy, Hawaiian massage, reflexology and kalari chikitsa.

Bikram Yoga Al. Jana Pawła II 61 lok. 305, tel. 888 204 020 A new, modern studio equipped with lockers, showers and the requisite hot room.

Practitioners of all levels – from newbie to old hand – are welcome.

Diamond Pilates ul. Powsińska 106, tel. 22 331 4495, diamondpilates.pl The first professional Pilates studio in Poland continues to be the pacesetter. Offers group and individual training, the latest equipment, dietary consultations and workshops for instructors.

Padma Studio ul. Wilcza 32/100, tel. 22 625 1217, padmastudio.pl A 60 sq/m studio offering classes in dynamic yoga, Afro Latin dance, Samba, Tai Chi and body / mind awareness.

Pilates (Private Classes) Tel. 608 499 666. A private studio in Wilanów with classes for one to four people that guarantee 100% attention from Laura, your instructor.

Yoga Medica ul. Racławicka 28, tel. 22 409 0354, yogamedica.pl Using hatha yoga as the basis, the individualized approach to exercise comes from the founder’s background as a physiotherapist. Tailor-made programs ideal for those recovering from injury or health issues.

Yoga Republic ul. Śniadeckich 18 lok. 1, tel. 790 805 853, www.yogarepublic.pl This studio combines the old school with the new, plus a nice dash of prewar charm with a touch of the east.

Yoga Republic offers classes for pregnant women in addition to a full schedule of four other types of yoga to suit experience and expectations (Mysore, Ashtanga, Vinyasa and Beginner’s).

in the city

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

CITY PROWL: PL. UNII LUBELSKIEJ

Originally christened Pl. Keksholmski after the nearby Tsarist military barracks, what we now know as Pl. Unii Lubelskiej – so named in 1919 to celebrate the 350th anniversary of the union between Lithuania and Poland – once marked one of the key entry points to the city. Distant they might be, but reminders of these days can be found by way of two ornate tollhouses that were completed in 1818. The junction began to assume its current look at the start of the following century, principally through the construction of the teetering tenements that ring it. Of these it’s Dom Kacperski that’s most striking, thanks largely to its outsized dimensions and vague similarity to New York’s Flatiron building: trivia buffs never fail to point out it’s home to the smallest internal courtyard in the city. Before the war center stage was afforded to Edward Wittig’s ‘aviators’ monument, which was destroyed during the Nazi retreat and subsequently rebuilt on ul. Żwirki i Wigury. Also now absent is the legendary SuperSam store. Built on a site that had once been earmarked to become Poland’s answer to Radio City, its architectural detail was deemed to be so sensational it won a prize at the 1965 Sao Paolo Biennale. Demolished in 2006, it’s now been replaced by a new icon of sorts: the 90-meter Plac Unii tower. www.warsawinsider.pl

95

listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

4-Star Hotels

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.com.pl Hampton by Hilton ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl

96

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

Hotel Reytan ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www. warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc.

MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

B&B

Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu

Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com

Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www.bedandbreakfast.pl

Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com

Chmielna Guesthouse ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, www.chmielnabb.pl

Warsaw Plaza Hotel ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, www. warsawplazahotel.pl

car rental

3-Star Hotels

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl Castle Inn Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl Golden Tulip ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500.

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, www.hiexpress.com

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl

Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000

Avis tel. 22 572 6565, Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel.

22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul.

Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360.

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, www.sixt.pl Trust Rent a Car ul. Marynarska 14, tel. 22 843 0580, www.trustrentacar.pl

listings / in the city useful numbers Foreign Assistance Tel. 608 599 999 / 22 278 7777 Information in English, German and Russian available from June 1st to September 30th from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. seven days a week.

Tourist Information ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (airport), Rynek Starego Miasto 19/21/21A, Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel.

22 194 31, warsawtour.pl

RESIDENTS relocation companies Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl

Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, www.interdean.com

AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/28, tel. 22 670 4280 or 502 216 606 www.duxconsulting.com.pl Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3535, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl

Relo Planet ul. Lwowska 5, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet.com International and domestic removals, transport and logistics solutions including office and individual moves, diplomatic posts, small shipments, storage and artwork.

MEDIA PATRONAGE

KLUBO

Through Nov ul. Czackiego 3/5, klubo.pl On Nov 7, win prizes by searching out the mushrooms hidden around the club! With DJ Albin, Divine Stykowski, Brother and Pit; Nov 13, celebrate the birthday of Fuck Bad Luck, with a “double order” available for those wearing clothes from their FBL collection; Nov 14, music from DJ Amaletto & Archi, Pit, Brother, plus an additional performance from a mystery old favorite! And on Nov 28: Gypsy Will Tell The Truth. Celebrate St. Andrew’s Eve with DJ Archi & Amaletto, Boski Stykowski and Albin.

WARSAW ART BOOK FAIR

Nov 27-29 Museum of Modern Art, ul. E. Plater 51, artbookfair.pl The mission of the WABF is the creation of a space where big publishing houses and independent initiatives cooperate together to promote printed design and art books.

The event will feature over 40 Polish and international exhibitors, among them publishing houses from Germany, Great Britain, and Switzerland, who will present the most interesting books and printed works on topics such as art, photography, and architecture.

Meetings, discussions and workshops are also scheduled.

CINEMAFORUM

Nov 25-29 Kinoteka Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), cinemaforum.pl Regarded as one of the most important independent film festivals in Poland, the Cinemaforum celebrates underground films of all genres. Workshops and lectures will accompany many screenings, as well as concerts, retrospectives and other events.

The festival culminates with the presentation of the Polish Independent Film Awards.

And in a final boon, admission is free!

www.warsawinsider.pl

97

SPONSORED ARTICLE

MASTERS of Pastel

From Marteau to Witkacy, the collection of the National Museum in Warsaw presents the finest artists to ever dabble with pastels…

O

n October 29th an exhibition devoted to the pastel – an extremely refined, visually attractive and at the same time tremendously demanding artistic technique – opens at the National Museum in Warsaw. The display will include 250 pastels from the Museum’s collection, which – owing to their delicate nature and susceptibility to mechanical damage – have never been loaned or exhibited on a permanent basis.

The presented works will include pastels by true masters of this technique, such as Stanisław Wyspiański, Teodor Axentowicz, Leon Wyczółkowski and Stanisław Ignacy Witkiewicz (Witkacy), who often abandoned oil paints in favour of crayons, as well as pastel works created by outstanding painters, e.g., Olga Boznańska, Anna Bilińska-Bohdanowiczowa and Władysław Ślewiński. This exceptional, three-month temporary exhibition will be the first display of pastels

98

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

of such magnitude in Poland – and at the same time a unique opportunity to discover a part of the National Museum in Warsaw’s collection which is usually not on view.

The display at the National Museum in Warsaw will depict the history of the pastel, from its beginnings in the 16th century to the first half of the 20th century, highlighting the role of this medium in Polish art history. Apart from the most renowned Polish pastellists, visitors will be able to view works by artists who enjoyed considerable popularity in the eyes of critics and audiences during their lifetime, yet nowadays have fallen into oblivion. These include Emilia DukszyńskaDukszta, regarded as the pioneer of female art in Warsaw in the late 19th century, ‘the belated Romantic’ Witold Pruszkowski, and the exquisite portrait painter Kazimierz Mordasewicz.

One of the major highlights of the display will be

SPONSORED ARTICLE

T.Axentowicz, Portrait, 1905; L.Wyczolkowski, Pink Azaleas, 1903; L.Wyczolkowski, White orchids and begonia 1910; St.Wyspianski, Mallows design murals for the church in Biecz, 1896; J.Rembowski, Banks Soap in 1918; L.Wyczolkowski, Self-Portrait in a Chinese straitjacket, 1911

the Wawel Treasury series, created in 1907, which was last exhibited in interwar Poland. This is a completely unique series – in Poland and Europe alike – which represents a pastel ‘inventory’ of the treasures held at the Kraków cathedral. Wyczółkowski, or ‘Wyczół’ as he was called by his friends, emerges as a true master of the pastel, and the praise of the art critics of his time, who wrote about his work “exploring the limits of possibilities,” becomes fully understandable for the contemporary viewer.

The exhibition will also showcase a set of pastels by exceptional European artists. The represented names include Christian Wilhelm Ernst Dietrich, Élisabeth Louise Vigée-Le Brun, Jean-François Millet, Pierre Puvis de Chavannes, Adolph Menzel and Max Liebermann. The display will be ordered based on chronology and subject matter, emphasizing themes such as female art, high society art and portraiture. It will be

supplemented by a presentation of the pastel’s reception in the graphic arts – a subject the broader public might not be familiar with. This refers to the search for techniques that could convey the artistic effects of pastel painting, which was associated with the 18th century ‘fashion for pastels’ and the expectations of collectors in the 19th and early 20th century.

The Museum has also prepared a varied programme of educational events with numerous lectures and meetings accompanying the exhibition allowing visitors the chance to find out more about the pastel’s history and the most outstanding Polish and European masters of this technique. The workshops will enable participants to discover, also in practice, the secrets of creating pastel paintings.

The National Museum in Warsaw Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

99

listings / in the city storage Wiecej Miejsca Tel. 733 002 014, www.wiecejmiejsca.pl A new storage service that will even go so far as to pick up your items for you and transporting them to their guarded warehouse.

They’ll also the supply the storage bins which typically fit 90 books, 100 t-shirts, 25 jumpers. Larger items like bikes, suitcases can also be left with them.

Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are held on the second and fourth Monday of the month.

Professionals in Warsaw meetup.com/Professionals-in-Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted

by Professionals in Warsaw. Natives and foreigners of all backgrounds and professions IN JANUARY E-LEARNING FOR FREE!are welcomed – all you have to do is buy your Contact us for more details. own drinks. Search for them on facebook.

polish for foreigners

POLISH LANGUAGE SCHOOL FOR FOREIGNERS

Klub Dialogu Y JANUAR ul. OrdynackaIN13/5, ING E-LEARN ! tel. 664 788 004, E FOR FRE www.klubdialogu.pl www.klubdialogu.pl Contact us tails. de info@klubdialogu.pl for more for Outstanding programs tel. 664 788 004 foreigners living in Poland offer a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu.

TAILOR-MADE individual and minigroup courses - intensive - regular - weekend at the school or at your place First Lesson Free Free conversation classes

community Anglican Church in Warsaw ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 62, tel.

880 580 628, anglicanchurch.pl English language services follow the order of the services of the Anglican Communion and are conducted by Rev. David Brown. Services are held each Sunday at 10:30 and 16:00.

International Christian Fellowship ul. Puławska 326, icfwarsaw.org Interdenominational services in English (10:30am, Sunday). Facilities, programs and community activities for all ages: children, students and adults.

InterNations www.internations.org Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s social and corporate circuit, their monthly meetings have become Must Do events on schedules round town.

International Women’s Group of Warsaw iwgwarsaw.eu Unites expat women in

100 Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year.

Taste of the Classics www.fnok.pl A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations.

The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English.

Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine.

Toastmasters International www.toastmasters.org.pl Toastmasters is the international organization for improving public speaking and presentation skills. The local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00.

Guests are always welcome without any obligation apart from a short introduction.

museums

experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals.

The Heritage Interpretation Center ul. Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl Beginning with a gigantic tapestry of Warsaw circa 1873, this little known venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction. Walking over a glass floor, beneath which lies smashed masonry and columns recovered from the ruins, a series of then-and-now slides and pictures document Old Town’s annihilation.

If the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before.

Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, his last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Invisible Exhibition Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar.

ChopinPASS The Fryderyk Chopin Institute, together with CityInfo, have launched a direct connection between Warsaw and Żelazowa Wola as part of an initiative called ChopinPASS. This package includes admission to the Chopin Museum and to the birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin in Żelazowa Wola, as well as direct transportation between these two institutions. Priced at zł. 99, visitors can purchase the pass at PKiN, the Chopin Museum as well as at: chopinpass.com

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Glucha, tel. 606 225 525, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family. A must see!

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of

listings / in the city local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical interwar Jewish Warsaw street.

to the younger generation, there’s a selection of vintage phones and laptop computers that hipsters would give their life for.

Museum Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, artmuseum.pl Ongoing: Zofia Rydet. Record 1978-1990.

Rydet’s ‘Sociological Record’ comprises around 20,000 photographs from more than one hundred villages and towns located mainly in the Polish regions of Podhale, Upper Silesia and Suwałki area. Ongoing: Julius Koller. “?” One of the most important Slovak artists of his generation. The exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw presents a new appraisal of this iconic figure of postwar European art. Ongoing: Cybernetic Serendipity. The landmark exhibition curated

by Jasia Reichardt in 1968 will be celebrated at the Museum of Modern Art with a display of documents, installation photographs and press reviews.

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl Following a maze-like route in the Palace of Culture, there’s curios aplenty: a Viennese calculator dating from 1898 that’s still in working order; a glowing ‘glass lady’ that lights up to demonstrate the inner workings of the body; communist era sports cars; a WWII Enigma machine. More pertinent

Museum of Warsaw Praga ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumpragi. muzeumwarszawy.pl Newly opened at press time, the Praga Museum covers a variety of subjects relevant to Warsaw’s right bank, and includes a ‘hall of disappearing professions’, gallieries, exhibitions and a cafe specializing in delicacies specific to this suburb.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city.

Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Park Miniatur ul. Senatorska 38, pl.miniaturymazowieckie. com A small number of 1:25 scale models of some of the most beautiful and important buildings from Warsaw’s past. Brilliant details abound in this Lilliputian world, with helpful English explanations accompanying the models.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. Don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. For panoramic views of Warsaw check the view tower.

Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl Probably the most famous gallery in Poland, this Zachęta has a thrilling, and at times controversial repertoire that makes it a must for modern art buffs.

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

5% DISCOUNT with this ad

Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

+48 500 033 414

www.warsawinsider.pl

101

Stadion Narodowy

1

5

4

2

9

11

6 8 10 7 3

1

2 RESTAURANT &

3

4

5

6

7

8

Chodk iewicza

Biały K amień

Żaryna

Kulskiego

9

10

11

VODKA

AT E L I E R

LOOKING BACK

Stuck In The Middle With You

T

he location of the Polish Independence Museum, which showcases Poland’s struggle to regain its sovereignty, in the baroque Przebendowski Palace on Al. Solidarności 62 is symbolic of Poland’s interwar 2nd Republic: isolated as it is between two carriageways of Trasa W-Z, buffeted and bookended by two turbulent counter forces.

The symbolism continues post-war, when, like Poland itself, the palace had its wings clipped and emerged in an emasculated form to house the Lenin Museum from 1955 to 1990. The palace was originally built for the Crown Treasurer Jan Jerzy Przebendowski, who, being a man without a strong aristocratic pedigree, needed an impressive residence to bolster his reputation. The design of the palace didn’t let him down with its seductive front oval projection, rich decoration and fashionable mansard roof.

While noted for its splendour and exotic masked balls in the eighteenth century, the nineteenth was a period of decline for the palace. At different times it was home to the Hotel de Hamburg, a waxworks display, a metal factory, a Bavarian brewery as well as a host of magicians, conjurers and illusionists. The list of residents included a handless woman who could do extraordinary things with her feet, a foreigner who sold sea birds and a German who could “whistle on the guitar”.

104 Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2015

The building was heavily damaged during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944, finding itself on the front line protecting the right flank of Bank Polski, which the insurgents held for the whole of the battle. The palace, though, was taken and retaken four times. When the Poles seized it on 23 August, the then owner Prince Radziwiłł, who had been hiding with his family in the basement, emerged to greet his liberators and invited them to breakfast.

The next morning at six o’clock, a fifty-kilo bomb smashed into the building partly destroying it. Luckily, the prince’s family survived, but the palace ended up again in German hands. This time, the Radziwiłłs were taken to Berlin for interrogation, but were allowed to return shortly after. The family was arrested by the NKVD after the war and sent to the USSR, where the prince’s wife died.

The prince returned to Poland in 1947 and agreed to hand over his ruined palace to the new authorities in exchange for a two-bedroom flat. Given the prevailing attitude towards aristocratics at the time, it was a remarkably fortuitous turn of events. If you visit the Independence Museum, or the excellent Apolonia cinema that operates in the palace, keep an eye out for the ghost of a fat, hashish-smoking Chinese globetrotter that is said to peer out of one of the windows.

You’ll be lucky if you do spot him though, as he has only been seen two or three times in the last thousand years.

PHOTOGRAPH PAP

Caught between two busy roads, it’s easy to pass the Przebendowski Palace without a second thought – but doing so would be a mistake… BY STUART DOWELL

Always something new Tables: +48 694 413 439 platinium@platiniumclub.pl 6, Fredy Street, Warsaw www.platiniumclub.pl /platiniumclubpl Door selection Dress code: casual elegant