Warsaw Insider July 2014 #215

The Age of the Food Truck page 20

Warsaw

Top Outdoor Dining page 14

Travel: Kazimierz Dolny & Beyond...

Moving?

page 26

July 07 price zł.10 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

(215)

2014

(VAT 8% included)

BALMAIN CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO MONCLER GAMME ROUGE RALPH LAUREN SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SIMONETTA RAVIZZA TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO

Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

JULY 2014 FEATURES

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

14 City Oasis

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

Every restaurant claims to have a garden, but the reality usually transpires to be a pair of chairs facing a bus stop. We sort the wheat from the chaff and present you with a handpicked rundown of the best of the bunch.

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Piers Bright Gill Boelman-Burrows Filip Dutkiewicz Karolina Kalinowska Vedika Luthra Michał Miszkurka Agnes Monod-Gayraud A. Julita Pryzmont Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

Demonstrating our appreciation for the finer things in life, the Insider goes undercover to bring you the story of Warsaw’s latest addiction – food trucks.

Swamping the city last summer and this, we bring you the ones to watch.

26 Travel

Many of the guidebooks list Kazimierz Dolny as something of a secret. Of course, it’s no such thing. But what of the towns around it. Ever heard of them?

Ever heard of The Magic Garden? Or the Museum of Drunkenness and Cycling? We reveal the real secrets of the region…

2

Back again, only this time there’s a few changes to forewarn you

of. We’ve used summer to do our spring cleaning and give the mag a bit of a dust down. That means a few nips and tucks to the design to bring you something that feels a little more ‘magaziney’ and less like a telephone directory – I hope you like it. Beyond tinkering under the bonnet, we’ve kept busy exploring the city to bring you the best dining terraces on offer. Now all we need is for the sun to keep his part of the deal and come out once in a while.

Also in store for you, a closer look at the food trucks that have come to define weekends in Warsaw. Finally, there’s a road trip like no other: one featuring a jungle of carrots and an old man in a tree – your typical out of town jaunt it is not. As always, enjoy, and see you next month!

LISTINGS

Restaurants 40 Cafes & Wine Bars 67 Nightlife 72 Shopping 80 Family 86 Health & Beauty 91 In the City 95

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2014

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

INFRONT

News 7 Trendspotting 10 Spotlight 12

INBACK

Classifieds 101 Map 102 Bar Spy 104

REVIEWS

Restaurants Gringo Bar 34 a nuż widelec 34 Temat Rzeka / Plażowa 37 L’enfant Terrible 38

Key Account Manager Agata Torańska atoranska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2014 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover

This issue we take a deeper look at Warsaw’s best summer dining spots. On the cover, our artist in residence has opted for the terrace of the stunning Polska Różana.

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

20 Food Trucks

TOM FORD TORY BURCH VALENTINO

this month...

CONCERT

Quartet and Milos Valent.

Every Sat @ Old Town Square

FILM

Jazz in the Old Town Running each Saturday throughout the summer, the 20th edition of Jazz in the Old Town will bring together a number of international artists to perform for free in the Rynek. Attracting audiences of up to 4,000 people, artists booked for July include the Joey Calderazzo Trio and the Urszula Dudziak SuperBand.

For info see: jazznastarowce.pl

COMEDY

Improv Sunday’s Every Sun, 20:00 @ Cafe Niespodzianka, ul. Marszałkowska 7

A theatrical English-language performance group with a focus on improvised comedy. They say: “we’re always looking for talented people to join us on stage.”

www.audioriver.pl

For more info: facebook.com/filmowastolica

ART

Cosmos Calling Jul 1 @ Zachęta Gallery, Pl. Małachowskiego 3

CONCERT

The free open-air concerts held by the Chopin Monument in Łazienki Park are a Warsaw summer staple. Attracting hundreds of people, it features some of Poland’s top pianists playing Chopin’s best known works.

For info see: lazienki-krolewskie.pl

FESTIVAL

Mozart Festival Until Jul 19 @ various locations

The 24th Warsaw Mozart Festival runs through July concluding on the 19th with an outdoor performance of The Magic Flute in the gardens of Wilanów Palace.

Leading up to this are numerous performances courtesy of the Warsaw Chamber Opera held in a medley of locations.

CONCERT

Quiet Zone Music Festival Jul 5, 6, 12, 13, 19, 20 @ Łazienki Park

This festival returns for a second year running, with a seriesofweekend concerts covering a varied range of genres: jazz, classical and ‘traditional’. Several world class performers have been confirmed, among them Paolo Pandolfo, Atom String Warsaw Insider | JULY 2014

A series of open air film screenings in scenic locations across the capital: among them the Copernicus Center, the roof garden of the University Library and a number of parks. The repertoire is as diverse as the locations.

Every Sun, 12:00 & 16:00 @ Łazienki Park, ul. Agrykola

For more info: operakameralna.pl

4

Throughout Jul @ various locations

Chopin in Łazienki

CONCERT

Where better to enjoy Poland’s premier dance festival but on a riverbank in Płock? Trentmoller, Little Dragon and LTJ Bukem are among the acts set to draw 25,000 people.

Filmowa Stolica

The opening of a new exhibition that explores the relationship between art and science in the 1960s. In their words, “the exhibition presents artists’ ambiguous ties, exploited by communist propaganda, with science, technology and industry.”

For info see: improve.pl

Editor pick: Audioriver

For more info, check: strefaciszyfestival.pl

For more info: zacheta.art.pl

Jacky Terrasson Trio Jul 4 @ Witold Lutosławski Concert Hall, ul. Modzelewskiego 59

Deemed by The New York Times as one of the 30 musicians that will shape the future of music, pianist Jacky Terrasson has performed with some of the top vocalists in the world: Betty Carter, Dianne Reeves, etc. His Warsaw concert marks the beginning of the Jazz in the Old Town festival.

Tickets from zł. 60 @ eventim.pl

FESTIVAL

22nd Street Art Festival Jul 4-6, @ various locations

The festival showcases abstract, often hilarious, street theater plays courtesy of troupes from the Czech Republic, Russia, Belarus, France and Poland. The festival aims to integrate art within the everyday landscape of the city, and as such you can expect events to take place in parks, subway passageways, squares and other public spaces.

For more info, check: www.sztukaulicy.pl.

ART

Victor Man. Zephir Jul 8 @ Zachęta Gallery,

Pl. Małachowskiego 3

The first individual exhibition in Poland of the work of Victor Man – the Romanian painter recently named Deutsche Bank’s Artist of the Year 2014. Aside from a retrospective of his work since 2006, also presented will be paintings not exhibited before.

For more info: zacheta.art.pl

EVENT

Bike & Fashion Fair Jul 6, 11:00 @ Temat Rzeka, under Most Poniatowskiego

Fixed gear bikes, cruisers, Dutch bikes, etc. And aside from all manner of bicycles to stare at and covet, find a number of stalls selling cycling accessories and fashion at this one-of-a-kind event.

For more info, check: tematrzeka.com

RECREATION

Night Skating Jul 10 & 31

Join thousands of roller bladers as they skate about Warsaw following a 15km route. Starting at 20:30, usually by the Copernicus Monument on Krakowskie Przedmieście, the mass skate usually concludes at round about 23:00.

For details see: nightskating.waw.pl

winding paths of the Morkie Oko Park.

Register online @ www.biegmorskieoko.pl

CONCERT

Katie Melua Jul 13, 20:00, @ Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN)

Georgian-born Melua visits Warsaw yet again, and once more you can anticipate another sellout concert. Lauded for her soulful voice and easy-listening style, the British-raised cracker will perform tracks from Ketevan, her latest album, as well as other hits in what will be one of the final concerts in Sala Kongresowa before it closes for renovation.

Tickets from zł. 115 @ eventim.pl

FITNESS

Zumba Marathon & Flash Mob Jul 13, 13:00 @ La Playa, Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5

An intensive, two hour zumba ‘marathon and flashmob’ led by some of the biggest names on the Polish scene. A turnout of hundreds, maybe thousands, is forecast.

For more info: laplaya.pl

CONCERT

Emiliana Torrini

FESTIVAL

Jul 16, 10:00 @ Palladium, ul. Złota 9

This Icelandic singer / songwriter is best known for performing Gollum’s Song in The Lord of the Rings: The Two Towers, though has also collaborated with names such as Kylie Minogue, Bjork and Paul Oakenfold.

Tickets from zł. 120 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Suzanne Vega Jul 23, 18:00 @ Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10

Immortalized by hits like Luka and Tom’s Diner, Suzanne Vega has eight albums to her name with the latest, Tales from the Realm of the Queen of Pentacles, released earlier in February.

Tickets from zł. 139 @ livenation.pl

EVENT

Warsaw Record Fair Jul 26, 14:00 @ Hybrydy, ul. Złota 7/9

A monthly record fair attracting traders and enthusiasts from as far afield as Kraków. Thousands of LPs and CDs on sale, including several of vintage variety, as well as record paraphernalia such as needles, brushes, etc.

For info see: hybrydy.com.pl

Sonisphere Jul 11, 10:00, @ National Stadium, Al. Poniatowskiego 1

Metallica, Alice in Chains and Anthrax are all booked for the latest installment of Sonisphere, which for the first time will take place in the National Stadium.

Insider Pick

Tickets from zł. 198 @ livenation.pl

FESTIVAL

Dimensions Jul 11, 22:00, @ Temat Rzeka, under Most Poniatowskiego

Prepare for a night of hip hop hosted by Dype and with Konstantin Sibold linedup to perform. He’ll be joined by Feelaz, MKO, Cyryl and Wants.

For more info: tematrzeka.com

RUN

3rd Morskie Oko Run Jul 12, 12:00 @ Morskie Oko Park

Challenge yourself and see how you measure up against novices and pros alike over five kilometers through the

CHOPIN IN THE PARK Oh, to have the magic chipolatas

of those pianists who perform… Listen to some of Poland’s top talents – young and old – recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre in the rose-rimmed gardens of Łazienki Park. For details see opposite.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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SPONSOR GŁÓWNY

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2014

in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town…

OBAMA’S VISIT IN NUMBERS

1

Billion Dollars

The figure pledged by Obama during his visit to bolster America’s military presence in Europe

47

Have you seen President Obama’s Marriott master class?

To date over 1.1 million YouTube users have: search for “Obama workout”.

All The President’s Men Warsaw went into shutdown mode in early June as Barack Obama joined a roll call of European leaders to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the elections that brought an end to Polish communism. Arriving on June 3rd, the US President’s two day trip was dominated by events in Ukraine, with Obama using the opportunity to promise increased military spending to ensure the security of the area covered by NATO. Speaking at pl. Zamkowy, the President heaped praise on Poland’s own previous struggles for freedom, before condemning the ‘dark tactics’ employed in the annexation of Crimea. To rapturous applause, the President concluded a stirring speech by thanking Poland for “its triumph of the human spirit.”

While Obama’s visit was deemed a resounding success, it made global headlines after footage emerged of the President working out in the Marriott’s gym. A spokesman, however, insisted that the video – believed to have been shot by a hotel guest – didn’t represent a breach of security. “Guests were not asked to refrain from taking pictures,” said Edwin Donovan, “it was no different than if the President visited a restaurant off the record.”

PHOTO COLLAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

The annual amount spent ensuring the President’s security

450

Thousand Dollars

The amount spent on hotel fees during Obama’s previous stay at the Warsaw Marriott

900

NATIONAL

Million Dollars

“Being here with you, it feels like home”

QUOTE BARACK OBAMA wins the crowd over at pl. Zamkowy while recalling

the kielbasa and pierogi of his hometown, Chicago.

People

Estimated as part of his traveling Warsaw entourage

139 Cars

Towed away in Warsaw after temporary parking restrictions were imposed for Obama’s visit

45 Cars

Estimated to have traveled in his Warsaw motorcade

5

US Presidents Have visited Poland

3

Polish Security Officers

Suspended for allegedly drinking on the job

www.warsawinsider.pl

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inFront

News

ARCHITECTURE

Building the Future

The Museum of the History of Polish Jews was named by the Association of Polish Architects as the best publicly funded building of 2013. Designed by Finnish architects Rainer Mahlamaki and Ilmari Lahdelma, parts of the Warsaw museum were opened to the public last year, with the core exhibition slated for completion later this year.

NATIONAL

Gone But Not Forgotten

POLITICS

Stop Bugging Me

Polish politics has been rocked after a tape was leaked revealing collusion between central bank governor Marek Belka and Interior Minister Bartłomiej Sienkiewicz. Recorded in Sowa & Przyjaciele restaurant, the explosive tape is one of many to have fallen into the hands of the press. Prime Minister Tusk has already conceded a snap election could be called if the crisis deepens. As for the source of the bug, many are suspecting a Kremlin attempt to destabilize Poland.

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2014

FROM TOP: KEVIN DEMARIA (2), WIKICOMMONS

Poland’s last communist leader, General Wojciech Jaruzelski, died at the end of May just days before the 25th anniversary marking the fall of communism. Seen by many as a Kremlin puppet, Jaruzelski will remain best known for ordering Martial Law in 1981 as part of a brutal crackdown on the Solidarity movement. His burial, at Powązki Cemetery, was gatecrashed by a large crowd of hecklers who whistled and chanted throughout the ceremony.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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inFront

Trendspotting

Get 10% off everything with the code “ WARSAWINSIDER”, till Aug 31st at mostrami.pl

Summer Style

Turn heads this summer by looking your best and accessorizing yourself with this season’s must have items…

1. Tomaotomo by Tomasz Olejniczak, zł. 1,500 @ mostrami.pl 2. High heels by Melissa, zł. 529 @ Lolly Pop Boutique, lollypop.pl 3. Peptide instant color rapid tan by Beauty Lab, zł. 105 @ Beauty Lab, beautylabpolska.pl 4. Anselme sunglasses by Mykita Mylon, zł. 2,000 @ Moko61, moko61.pl 5. Summer perfume by Mo61 Perfume Lab, 30ml zł. 149 & 50ml zł. 219 @ Mo61 Perfume Lab, mo61.pl

For more information on these stores, see page 80

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2014

“Senses is about being honest and emotional about the food.

Using the finest produce we are innovative and modern yet surprisingly familiar."

Andrea Camastra Chef de Cuisine

“Rediscover Your Senses”

12 Bielańska Street, Warsaw („Senator” building ) P: + 48 22 331 96 97 M: +48 733 390 000 @: restaurant@sensesrestaurant.pl www.sensesrestaurant.pl

inFront

Spotlight

BR

AC K

A

HOŻA

SKIE UJAZDOW

Whether you call it Pl. Trzech Krzyży, Three Crosses Square or just simple P3K, this corner of Warsaw has evolved into one of the capital’s most prestigious addresses

WIA ŻURA

MOKOTOWSKA

Stations of the Crosses

PLAC TRZECH KRZYŻY

SHOP

You won’t get from the independent designer labels of Mokotwska to the international names in Vitkac without wanting to first peer behind the boutique fronts of P3K: Zegna and Burberry both have a high profile presence, though for summer Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 offers complete, one-stop wardrobe solutions from Ralph Lauren, Valentino and more.

SEE

Splashed in the middle of Warsaw’s ‘Royal Route’, P3K has never been under-the-radar.

But a legacy of wartime destruction and communist town planning meant that for a while doom followed boom. Today a patchwork of curiosities, the area is a jumble of styles: a Tsarist lamppost, a gleaming Sheraton, grim Soviet concrete and grand pre-war buildings.

Dominating it all, the Neoclassical form of St. Alexander’s. Inspired by Rome’s Pantheon, the church has been pared down significantly since a remodeling by the Luftwaffe. Yet it remains one of the iconic sights of the city center, and has stories of its own – it’s said Allied spies once secretly convened here. Now flushed with boutiques and cafes and glinting commercial signage, the area ringing the church today teems with life and color.

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2014

Check the restored murals inside Starbucks: a stockinged good time girl applying lipstick, a pitchfork wielding devil and a come-hither mermaid. They’re a throwback to the addresses previous function as the commie era Lajkonik café, and the wall art the work of its famous former clients. Plastered over by previous owners in 2003, the doodles have since been heroically restored by the people at Starbucks.

SOCIALIZE

The area has always had a lively reputation for cafes and bars, and while this has diminished in recent times this summer’s launch of Plac Barcelona has given the area new impetus.

Designed in a Mediterranean white-on-white style, join a glam crowd in sipping cocktails and champers. For afters, the round-the-clock hours of nearby Szpilka ensure its abiding popularity with 5 a.m. drinkers. and sort through oodles of gear: from battered antiques to the latest technology.

CITY OASIS

Restauracja Polska Różana

The Secret Garden

There’s an abundance of al fresco dining options in Warsaw – but as soon becomes apparent, for each secret garden are flimsy tables planted right by the curb: is that SUV going to back into me, you splutter over coffee. We bring you a countdown of the Insider’s favorites…

Venti-tre

Restauracja Polska Różana ul. Chocimska 7

The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed.

Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center.

Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself.

Venti-tre

ul. Belwederska 23

Carefully shielded from the outside world by a phalanx of

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2014

greenery, Venti-tre feels slick and polished with its sail-like canopies and the glinting mirrored windows it looks onto. There’s a buzz to the place that goes beyond the half a million bees kept in the apiary on the rooftop, and that’s never truer than on a Sunday afternoon – swing by for one of Warsaw’s top brunches, before completing the weekend with an excursion to the Royal Park and gardens three minutes away.

Dawne Smaki

Dawne Smaki ul. Nowy Świat 49

You can tell those new to Warsaw: they’re the ones who sit on Dawne Smaki’s terrace, amid the hubbub of Nowy Świat. Of course, there’s nothing wrong with this, least not if you want to soak in the atmosphere. But their real attraction is a 360 sq/m garden through the back. Bursting with greenery, it’s an inner city oasis amid the clamor of outside – the perfect spot to enjoy a candle-lit dinner to remember.

Dom Polski

ul. Francuska 11

Walking up the pathway to Dom Polski one senses something special – and the hunch is soon confirmed. Greeted by bow-tied service, allow yourself to be led past gleaming chandeliers and aristocratic trimmings to the garden: secluded and still, it’s a riot of flowers and shrubs and a glorious spot for whispered trysts.

For good reason it’s regarded as one of the most romantic retreats you’ll discover in the city.

Dom Polski

Boathouse

Boathouse

ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389A

The name gives it away, doesn’t it? Situated in what is indeed a former boathouse, this venerable institution comes into its element each summer when the great and the good of Warsaw go riverside to dine at this restaurant. Set in three acres of manicured parkland, there’s something immensely satisfying about watching the sunset with a glass of wine in hand. Kids are welcome – as the bouncy castle indicates – but the layout of this place means that peace is assured.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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CITY OASIS

Talk of the Terraces

Gardens might be green and great, but there’s times when you want to sit ringside and appreciate the comings and goings of Warsaw outdoors. Behold, our pick of the bunch…

Papaya Papaya

ul. Foksal 16

There she goes – a tall, Slavic beauty with impossible heels. She turns onto Foksal – where else? – before carefully taking position on Papaya’s terrace. Since the world began this street has been drawing the bright and the beautiful like moths to a flame, but no-one does it better than Papaya itself.

Why not join her, on a glorious terrace deck that looks onto the action. Complimenting the air of urban sophistication is a panAsian menu of considerable merit.

Videlec

ul. Grójecka 194

Videlec

In the far off land of Ochota something special is brewing.

Presenting evidence of Warsaw’s culinary expansion to the suburbs are places like Videlec. With its commitment to fresh, local produce and informal style, it’s the neighborhood restaurant you wished was next door. The sentiment extends to outside, where a seasonal terrace allows for some starlit dining. True to spirit, a play area for kids is also included.

Delicja Polska

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64

Delicja Polska

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2014

For as long as they’ve been around (and that’s quite some time) Delicja Polska have enjoyed a reputation for doing things right. That means service – all pomp and splendor – that means food – all artistic Polish – and it also means design. Their new location fits the bill with an elegant terrace that’s befitting of this historic Royal Route.

SHOPPING AT THE HEART OF WARSAW While in Warsaw don’t miss The Golden Terraces (Złote Tarasy) shopping mall, which provides a tempting combination of the great deal commercial and entertainment offers as well as innovative architecture.

The Golden Terraces complex consisting of over 200 stores and boutiques, including VICTORIA’S SECRET BEAUTY & ACCESSORIES, Topshop, River Island and ZARA. The centre offers latest fashion trends, design novelties, most up-to-date gadgets as well as 40 restaurants and cafes, together with the famous Hard Rock Cafe.

The perfect location in the city centre just next to the Warsaw Central Railway Station makes it easily accessible by train or any other public transport services.

Enjoy the dose of emotions within the transmission of sport events on Golden Terraces Patio. Watch FIFA World Cup, Tour de France, Speedway and fancy many more attractions in the summertime of your centre of entertainment.

Warsaw, Złota Street 59 Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00 | Sunday 9:00-21:00

CITY OASIS

Central Park

ul. Belwederska 13 You’d never guess with that name, would you? Looking onto Morskie Oko, CP’s crowning glory soon becomes apparent: a wooden deck set on a lawn and fringed with upcycled crates. Not cut off in the same way as other terraces are, it’s boon is a very real sense of community: people dropping in and out, locals picnicking on the lawn and puppies larking about.

The menu – simple and natural – feels just right.

Central Park

“You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so” Ale Wino!

ul. Mokotowska 48

At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik.

You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch.

Ale Wino!

Milanovo

ul. Kostki Potockiego 24G

It’s no surprise to learn that affluent Wilanów is awash with gardens and terraces. Pushed to pick a favorite it’d be Milanovo. Sitting in the midst of the district’s social hub, while this might appear as a ten-a-penny terrace, its atmosphere is one that speaks of convivial times and family celebration. And afterwards, you’re right on the doorstep of Poland’s best garden: that of Wilanów Palace.

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2014

Milanovo

Come and enjoy the first and most prestigious golf course in Poland (Top 3 in Eastern Europe) Green fee price 50 Euro/weekdays 75 Euro/weekend 25km from city center Pro Shop/Rental/Transportaion

www.fwgcc.pl Telephone: 530 577 477

FOOD TRUCKS

GIMME FOOD (trucks)!

You wouldn’t want to tell someone lining up for his welfare check, but the economic devastation brought about by the ‘credit crisis’ did have a silver lining: from these desperate financial ruins the food truck was born – and now, it’s rolled into Warsaw…

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www.warsawinsider.pl

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FOOD TRUCKS

Japadogi

THOUGH SO-CALLED ‘ROACH COACHES’ – slopping out simple tacos at construction sites – have existed in America for decades, it was the financial meltdown of the 00s that saw the food truck go mainstream.

With the economy in nosedive, and restaurants tanking, unemployed chefs sought a low-cost way to get back in business. At the same time, the penny-pinching public wanted good food but at affordable prices.

Boom: you got the food truck revolution.

Szerdelek

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2014

And while it all originated in the States, the concept of meals on wheels soon spread abroad: London, especially.

And as we all know, if it happens in London it’ll happen in Warsaw – just a couple of years down the line. And what began here as a side street curiosity soon morphed into an armada of food trucks trundling through the streets.

Summer 2013 will be remembered, in Warsaw’s culinary history, as the year these battle buses went viral. A year on, their popularity has grown unchecked.

Embraced by an exotic coterie of people – from hipsters with Victorian-era beards to media types who wear yellow trousers at the weekend – the trucks have become big news. Weekend meets, publicized on social media, have become de rigueur for a cross-section of people…

“ what began here as a side street curiosity soon morphed into an armada of food trucks...”

‘Japanese pancake’ unit – even the staff are dressed in weird violet outfits. Japanese pancakes, by the way, mean lots of whipped cream, fruit and chocolate sauce – great if you’re six.

Pizza z Zuka

facebook.com/PizzaZZuka West Coast on Toast

Slices of pizza served out the back of a Żuk van adorned with graffiti squiggles.

All things considered, it’s better than most high street chain pizzas.

Soul Food Bus

facebook.com/soulfoodbus

All trends begin somewhere, and Soul Food Bus can lay claim to being Warsaw’s original food truck. Enjoying something akin to cult status, this mob specialize in ace burgers sold from a truck and, also, a shipping container…

Szerdelek

facebook.com/szerdelek

Home cooking goes mobile! This truck eschews burgers, wraps and traditional food wagon eats, and instead serves traditional Polish comfort food: kaszanka, goose breast and old-fashioned, homemade fruit compote.

Waffiezz

facebook.com/Waffiezz

Owned by Jurgen, a native of Arnhem, Wafiezz specialize in Dutch stroopwafels and mini pancakes (poffertjes) with fresh fruit and whipped cream. Sweet and completely delicious!

West Coast Toast

facebook.com/westcoasttoastpl

Burger Station

Grilled toasted sandwiches filled with a variety of ingredients that include gorgonzola, rucola and chanterelles, and extras like mint sauce. An interesting homage to the humble toast.

Wheel Meal Gold Digger

authentic, but then what did you expect.

Highly decent, nonetheless.

When Gold Digger arrives at an event everyone knows about it – it looks a beauty. The burgers are pretty good as well, making it one to watch out for (not that you’ll miss it).

Car City Burger

facebook.com/pages/gold-digger-foodtruck

Japadogi

facebook.com/JapadogWarszawa

An interesting concept this: kimchi hot dogs with wasabi mayo, teriyaki and sweet chili sauce. The execution isn’t the most

facebook.com/carcityburger

Voted by Aktivist magazine as the king of food trucks! You can tell they’re serious about their ingredients, and added points go to a flip-down table that allows you to eat off the van itself.

Pepe Crepe

facebook.com/pepecrepe

Hello Kitty meets Manga at this bizarre

facebook.com/wheelmealpl

Burritos, tacos and chimichangas from a truck sprayed with trippy Day of the Dead faces. Good heat factor, and a standard that most of Warsaw’s Mexican eateries could learn from.

Wurst Kiosk

facebook.com/WurstKiosk

Plugging themselves as the ‘best of the wurst’, it’s a great ambassador for the growing Wurst Kiosk outlet: sourcing genuine German sausages it’s very much the real deal. Also on sale, authentic Belgian frites. www.warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL KAZIMIERZ DOLNY... AND BEYOND

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a river runs through it The Wisła isn’t just an ugly brown river that splits Warsaw in half: head down it and you’ll find it flanked with secrets both open and hidden. text: alex webber | photos: ed wight

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1. Kazimerz Dolny has talent 2. Church of St. John the Baptist & St. Bartholomew, Kazimierz Dolny 3. All is not what it seems in… The Magic Garden 4. I’m a celebrity… get me out of here!

The Magic Garden 5. The halls of the Czartoryski Palace, Puławy 6. Of ruins and rapture, Janowiec Castle 7. Mr Majewski and his wheels of fortune, Gołąb

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Gołąb

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top! Stop right now!!” I’m usually quite reserved when sat in the passenger seat, but this was different. It was two years ago, and the girlfriend and I were driving back from Kazimierz Dolny. “Did that sign really say what I think it did?” I asked, my voice breaking into an excited squeak. It transpired it did: The Museum of Drunkenness & Cycling.

In the event, we didn’t stop: my enthusiasm cut down by a stony glare. “But I’m only interested in the bikes,” I protested.

Still, no dice. Deflated, but not defeated, I filed a mental note to visit posthaste. Two years later, my chance came about.

It was one of those days: a replenished bank account, no looming deadlines and an itch to skip town. Over the course of the years, I’ve accumulated all sorts of tourist junk: books, bumph and atrocious souvenirs. A fair proportion of these were directly acquired in Kazimierz D., but practically nothing from its satellite sights. Recruiting a photographer, we sketched a plan that, keeping in mind the aforementioned museum, would use Kazimierz as HQ but also take in the surrounding area. This was to be a road trip of discovery around a Poland that, in many guidebooks, exists in name alone.

Take Puławy, for instance. Given no more than a cursory mention in anything other than industry magazines, it’s a town that goes largely unnoticed. But with the Warsaw-Lublin train running through it, it’s the best start point for those beginning the journey by rail. While on the surface it’s mistaken as a mere transit point, a quick background check reveals so much more: e.g., the Trzy Korony, a riverside hotel with a brewery on-site.

“Maybe,” it is cautiously suggested, “we should stay there a night.”

Checking in, we are instantly impressed. “How has this hotel only got three stars,” asks the photographer. Over the course of the next 24hrs this will become clear. For now though we’re happy with the lodgings and our trip has started well. Buoyed by that ‘just left Warsaw’ buzz, we immediately set to work.

The Museum of Drunkenness and Cycling is in a village called Gołąb. We are in Puławy. This is a problem because while I had mooted this as a road trip I can’t actually drive, and the photographer refuses. So taxi it is. Little over 10 kilometers sepa

The Magic Garden

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rates A from B, but it says a lot about Puławy that our cab driver is bamboozled by our instructions. He stares, mouth agape, as if we’ve just asked to go to Brussels. The drive is slow and silent, almost like he’s expecting us to change our minds any moment.

We don’t.

The museum is everything I imagined. We are dropped off beside a ramshackle barn, and as we have a furtive smoke by the gate a cheery man approaches us speaking at a million miles per minute. This is Józef Konstanty Majewski, creator of the museum. Ignoring the fact I’ve already told him my language skills are nil, he leads us into his inner-sanctum pointing at pictures and lecturing us in Polish. Nothing makes sense, and from what we can make out the museum is, in fact, a collection of rusting junk. But we love it.

As a howling tribe of school children enter the premises, he takes turns bringing out bikes of all size and description: they are hilarious contraptions, and he demonstrates each by tearing around like a man with dynamite down his trousers. There are flies the size of bats circling around us, but they go unnoticed. All eyes are on Majewski and his nutty machines – the kids are spellbound and shriek with delight. We do as well. Facilitating our enthusiasm is Part 2 of the ‘museum’. Unlocking a garage door, Majewski reveals the Museum of Drunkenness. It sounds grand, yet in fact is an assemblage of his empties. But they are beautiful, glimmering under the cobwebs like a hoard of precious stones.

As we leave our goodbyes are warm and sincere.

Back in Puławy the cabbie drops us outside the Czartoryski www.warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL KAZIMIERZ DOLNY... AND BEYOND

Fancy a tree-some? The Magic Garden

Palace. It is the town’s principal point of interest, a handsome residence where peacocks stroll the lawns. We’re just in time for a look about, and take stock of the interiors: the displays are of scant interest – the death mask of Zofia Czartoryska along with her beauty set; portraits of nobility; and collections of silver – yet there’s a real sense of charm. We walk in hushed reverence through Gothic-style halls and up intricate iron stairwells, trailed the whole time by a supervisor that’s a vision of grace.

“We should be following her,” leers the photographer, worrying me slightly. Outside, away from the temptress, the surrounding park presents a pastoral scene: thick woodland interspersed with aristocratic whims – a Roman-style temple with stone lions gifted by Tsar Alexander I. The sun has rolled past the yardarm, but Puławy feels sleepy.

Returning to the hotel, we retreat to the terrace and its Wisła views. Enjoying the brewing facilities – but not the food – we idle the evening away as the skies turn maroon. The state of inner bliss is shattered the next morning: the new day is announced by the din of Disco Polo coming from the bar, and the fierce clack of bowling balls from the alley right below. Checking my messages, the photographer also has mishaps to report. Message 1: “no toilet paper in my room, I need to borrow yours.” Message 2: “too late.”

Check out: we lug our bags to the cab, this time with Kazimierz as the destination. Again, a short journey, and again, a look of bewilderment from the man behind the wheel. But the drive is beautiful, and takes in scenery swiped straight from fiction: it’s all cute cottages with smoke puffing out the chimneys, and the vivid, vibrant greens of the woodland all around.

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Everyone, it seems, loves Kazimierz Dolny. Unfortunately, that’s part of the problem. While tourist hubs like Kraków absorb visitors, a town of 4,000 can’t. At times, you think Kazimierz Dolny will collapse into a sinkhole caused by the sheer weight of tourists. It seems though today we’ve struck lucky. It’s Friday afternoon and the square all but empty. Traders stand around scratching their heads. It’s not that the neon hula hoops and pirate hats that they hawk are rubbish, it’s just the demand isn’t there. I’ve never seen Kazimierz so quiet. For the first time I enjoy it.

Confined by the Wisła on one side and a steep gully on the other, there’s no questioning the majesty of Kazimierz. Once a prosperous merchant town, evidence of its heyday is relayed by her architecture. Burgher houses line the Rynek, the most elaborate of which is Kamienice Przybłów. Completed in 1615, its façade is adorned with renaissance reliefs. Exploring the cobbled side streets we stop at the former synagogue, which today houses an evocative exhibition dedicated to the town’s once sizeable Jewish population.

But it’s not all gentle meandering. We hike up past the flamboyant Parish Church and to the castle ruins that are perched on the hill. The views are magnificent, and matched only by those at Three Crosses Hill. Standing 90 meters over the Rynek, the site is reputed to be an ancient burial ground, with the three crosses installed ever since the town made a miraculous recovery from an 18th century plague.

Slicked with sweat and pinched by mosquitoes, we recover the vestiges of our humanity at the Vincent hotel. A Provence-style pensjonat, we spend the rest of the evening dining on the terrace, sampling a menu devised by a protégé of Warsaw’s Wojciech Amaro. In between courses, Josefina, a bushy Maine Coon, prowls around the tables like a haughty princess. All is good.

But while the castle ruins of Kazimierz are well-visited, those of Janowiec, across the river, are not. We are bright-eyed the next day, and make the journey there. First though, we stop at the remains of the Jewish cemetery. Set on a steep slope, the gravestones lean at awkward angles long set by time. Zigzagging among them, one feels a sense of serenity and sadness. It’s a feeling that’s repeated at Janowiec.

Built in the 16th century, the cadaverous castle is eerie and still.

Distant voices echo in the background and there’s an otherworldly feel as we walk through the shadows. While a program of restoration has been embarked upon, one can’t help but suspect it’s a misguided project – shouldn’t emblems of history be left in their natural state? It’s a question we ponder as we taxi it back to the start point: Puławy station.

But if the idea for this trip was born from spotting a signpost, it comes full circle as we near its conclusion. Belting it down narrow roads the taxi screeches to a halt on the command of the snapper. “Stop, stop, stop!” He’s seen something. A sign.

“Magiczne Ogrody” it declares. The Warsaw train can wait, what the photographer has seen warrants investigation.

The Magic Garden, we learn, is Poland’s latest theme park.

Flashing our press cards, our efforts to enter for free meet pointblank refusal. Grudgingly, we fork out the zł. 29 entrance and are rewarded by a Mad Hatter world of freaky flowers and oversized carrots, old men in trees and giant Furbys in tunnels.

For a moment I wonder who spiked my tea. As we roam amid the absurdities, each stranger than the last, we struggle to recall the reality of Warsaw.

LISTINGS RESTAURANTS 40 CAFES & WINE BARS 67 NIGHTLIFE 72 SHOPPING 80 FAMILY 86 HEALTH & BEAUTY 91 IN THE CITY 95 Perfect Sundae at Ciepłe Zimne

In Cafes & Wine Bars: Ice Cream Shops When Warsaw gets sweaty reach for relief with the traditional local cure: ice cream.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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REVIEWS Red Hot Find

A saucy love affair with spicy tacos

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always keep an eye out for new Mexican restaurants in Warsaw to fulfill my longing for the tasty tacos I left behind in the States.

While I may sound overdramatic about something as simple as a taco, you wouldn’t question me if you’ve tried the real thing.

And the real thing is hard to come by in a country where it’s hard to get the proper ingredients. Alas, I’m forever hopeful that someone with the same love for these delicious folded pockets of succulent, spicy, saucy treasures will do the right thing and go the extra mile.

It was on my return from the States – with a check-in bag loaded with more Mexican ingredients than clothes – that a friend told me about Gringo. Considering I’d just made him combust from my trademark salsa verde, I figured he must be aware of my standards. I was there within a shot.

As I approached Gringo Bar, a tell-tale sign that the owner had indeed gone the extra mile glowed in the window like a precious gem: Jarritos soda! Any element of homesickness vanished as the waft of tortillas being cooked on a grill settled in the air. And the first bite? Can only be described like meeting an old friend: the right trimmings, moist chicken and habanero sauce (as hot as hot should go while still tasting great) did their magic and without barely knowing it I’d soon finished three.

In fact, another round was contemplated until I noted a guy eating a burrito. That must be tried, I said to myself, tomorrow… (KD)

Gringo Bar

Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, open Mon-Sat 12:00-20:00; Sun 11:00 – 20:00

m Can it Cut it?

The knives (and forks) are out at A nuż widelec

y first visit to A nuż widelec hadn’t gone to plan – I’d been assisting on a photo shoot on a blazing hot day and just wanted a beer in the shade: and pay for it with plastic. But it wasn’t going to happen. “We’ve only been open a week,” apologized the owner, “so no cards and we’re still waiting for our alcohol license.” Aha. But in spite of this wobble I’d seen enough to know I’d be back.

You see, it’s a place that makes an immediate first impression. Or more pertinently, the garden does: a magical multi-layered terrace of white-painted timber, cutesy flowerpots and colorful cushions. Unfortunately, by the time Visit No. 2 came to be the sky was as grey as a pair of wet y-fronts. But you don’t need good weather to enjoy Widelec.

The charm extends indoors, to a small dining room decked out with wooden tables, patches of brickwork and potted herbs.

Then there’s the blackboard menu, adjusted to the whims of the chef and the vagaries of the weather. With this in mind, the ginger and carrot soup is a good call, soaking up my excesses of the evening prior.

Deliciously deep, it’s given subtle complexity with the addition of raspberry sauce, coriander and a pinch of sunflower seeds. Next is a main of grilled pork served on carrots. There’s nothing smarty pants about it, rather it’s cooking you understand and appreciate. It’s something a doting mother would make. And finally, dessert, a gooey wave of sweetness comprised of blueberries, strawberries and cream. The serving is generous but never overwhelming, while the tastes are exceptional.

There’s a simplicity and truth to this cooking, not to mention a personalized touch. They haven’t tried to rewrite the rule book, instead you sense a place that contents itself by putting out food made with love. (AW)

A nuż widelec

ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 507 367 520, open 12:00-22:00

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In Restaurants: Hummus

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Bye bye burgers, cheerio craft beer: it’s hummus that’s set to be the summer trend that rocks the city.

p. 46 Taking hummus seriously at Laflaf

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Moon River Yay, the Wisla! Not the most majestic of rivers, but a river nonetheless. And one that’s come a long way in a short time. Unloved and underdeveloped, it’s not that long back you’d have mistaken it for the city’s official sewer. Now though, the wild riverbank has been transformed into a social hub, a must-visit for night owls and sun seekers.

True, attempts have been made before to inject it with some (night)life, and those who remember the 00s will recall the wooden beer huts that would mushroom on the Wisła’s edge each summertime. But this was territory contested by roaming psychos and Mr. Muscle thugs. In contrast, the river today is positively inclusive.

Temat Rzeka was the sensation of last summer, with nowhere else in Europe having more internet checkins. And the success of last year has once more been revived by a busy calendar of events. But to catch the moment, visit Plażowa nearby. Based around a sleek, oblong structure that sits in the glow of the National Stadium, it’s the see and be seen space of July. Who cares if much of the beer tastes like it could have been siphoned from the river, many just turn up with their own carry-outs to enjoy a moonlit drink on the sands outside. With rugged scrub on one side, and Warsaw’s party people on the other, it’s a heady mix that defines summer in the city. Photograph by Ed Wight Temat Rzeka & Plażowa Under Poniatowskiego Bridge

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REVIEWS

s

Child Prodigy

This L’enfant Terrible makes a mark on Mokotów

hort of a magic money plant being abandoned on my doorstep, I can’t think of a way 2014 could get any better.

Everything, it seems, is going right for Warsaw, and that’s particularly true of its restaurant scene. I’ve lost count of the number of greats that have opened, but in terms of potential none can match L’enfant Terrible. In a nutshell, it’s going to be huge.

The menu doesn’t faff about – it is strong, silent and absent of adjectives: dishes are surmised using one word, in some cases two, imparting an element of suspense. In such cases, it feels prudent to just order the tasting menu, which is exactly what we do: five courses, zł. 170.

Now tasting menus are something of a risk – they are the preserve of top chefs, cooks whose kitchens are a laboratory of innovation.

To have one is a statement, a declaration of skill, and frankly there’s a couple Warsaw restaurants that really shouldn’t bother.

L’enfant Terrible is not one of these. With firsthand experience gained in two and three star kitchens, chef Michał Bryś is qualified to brag. Even so, there is a note of suspicion hanging heavy in the air. Food critic / prophet Jay Rayner describes tasting menus as ‘itsy bitsy food doodles’, and I’m inclined to agree. As we await the first act I forsee a plate that’s all vain swirls and cocky posturing. But I am wrong.

We are served baby beetroot, salmon snow, trout foam and mackerel ice cream. As an opening gambit it is a success, even if I fundamentally disagree with the idea of piscine ice cream. And the serving is anything but ‘itsy bitsy’. What chance of completing five courses if they’re all as large as this?

Round 2 sees the turn of fawn tartar, served in a crispy tube and with all manner of extras – there is lovage ice cream, chanterelles, sour cucumber jelly and a cooked egg sitting on burned eggplant. What happened to the maxim that less is more? Undeterred, we plug on, mixing and matching the different bits and bobs. With so much going

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on there’s an assumption that all the different tastes shouldn’t hit it off – yet strangely they do.

But this just can’t compete with what arrives next. Titled ‘tomatoes, tomatoes’, Chapter Three is immense in its flavor. There is tomato water jelly, crispy compressed tomato, tomato ice cream, a praline with powdered tomato and a few blobs of tomato emulsion (“better known as ketchup,” smiles the waitress). It is stunning in originality and tastes – some subtle, others big, it’s a course that turns our table into a panting orgy: “oh yes,” I swoon, “oh yes, yes,” returns my friend.

This is nothing if it is not a spectacular song for the modest tomato.

With the starters completed, it is the turn of mains. For my dining partner, that means pork belly cooked sous-vide and served with a donut filled with cheese and rose petal jam. But with its porter beer sauce and dollop of black pudding it is decried as ‘a dish for winter, not steamy summer’. I fare better with slow-cooked veal tenderloin and a variety of sweet and sour radishes. There is not a moment I don’t enjoy.

And with that, it’s dessert: cookie crumbs, a wafer of dehydrated milk, cubes of butter milk, ice cream and elderflower. It takes three minutes for my plate to be emptied – I am timed – and there’s not one fault I find. The meal has been an upward curve, starting confidently and ending with a bang. But I am not alone in enjoying it. My dining companion is a fussy man, to the point he’s given up on Warsaw restaurants because, in his words, “nothing beats Amaro”. Yet even his flinty heart has thawed, and as we settle up the bill he makes a booking to return later in the week. If he looks carefully, he’ll notice that I have as well. (AW) L’enfant Terrible ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, open Mon-Fri 12:30-15:30, 18:30-22:00; Sat 13:00-15:30, 18:30-22:30

The many shades of summer, Pingle Optyk

In Shopping: Summer Splurge Add a dash of flash to your look this summer with the essential accompaniments to your holiday suitcase.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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restaurants KEY $ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 Best of Warsaw Award Winner 2013 New listings are highlighted in RED

FOR THE PERFECT PICNIC BAZAR OLKUSKA (Olkuska 12) Assuming a starring role in this boutique covered market are I Love Hummus, the cheeses of La Petite France, Mediterranean dips from Damas plus lots of fresh fruit and veg.

Nearest park: Królikarnia MERCATO (Próżna 7) A restaurant operating a sideline as a deli – the slant is Italian, with wines, cheese, hams and olives playing a prominent part. We love the products from Panettone. Nearest park: Saski SAMIRA (Niepodległości 213) Give your picnic a Lebanese twist by stocking up on hummus, jams, sausages and more. Fresh cheese (Lebanese and Bulgarian) can be bought by weight from the deli counter.

Nearest park: Pole Mokotowskie SOLERA (Wilcza 26) Recognized above all for its wine, there are nonetheless other reasons to be dropping by Solera: Mediterranean produce with a Spanish emphasis. Recommended for its olives, cheeses, bread and hams. Nearest park: Ujazdowskie PICCOLA ITALIA (Francuska 11) With over 2,000 products on sale, browsing here can become a dangerous sport, not least if you like cheese. Often quoted as the best source of Italian produce in the city.

Nearest park: Skaryszewski

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African American Asian Balkan & Russian British Burgers Cheap Eats Food shops French German Greek & Turkish Indian International Italian Japanese & Sushi Jewish Latin Middle Eastern Polish Scandinavian Seafood Whole Foods

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Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

african Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, open 10:00-23:00, www.cafebaobab.pl Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $ La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, open Mon

listings / restaurants 13:00-24:00; Tue-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-23:00, www. lamama.eu Things we like: African Star beer and the traditional stews. Things we don’t like: the goat meat. But that’s not a criticism of the cooking, rather an admission we don’t like goats in general – dead or alive. Those who don’t fancy experimenting with gizzards and heads make do with dishes like yam porridge or sweet and spicy coconut rice. It’s the very definition of casual, and something of a focal point for Warsaw’s African community. $$

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00 Upstairs it’s a burger joint, one of Warsaw’s best. Downstairs, a modern American restaurant overseen by Jan Piecuch – former chef of Signature. Offering a different menu to the lunch-on-the-run options of upstairs, the monthly card is serious in its intent (there’s even a 5-course tasting menu), with well-marbled 21-day Hereford steak, dainty crab cakes and creative soups. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel.

22 630 5119, open 12:00-24:00, www. champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, www.hardrockcafe. pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450

6710, open Mon-Thu 12:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www. someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 22 653 8360, open Mon & Tue 11:00-23:00; Wed-Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.tgifridays.pl/ warszawa The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, and even the burgers can’t compare to Warsaw’s armada of burgeries. And the interiors are just as you’d remember: crass, vulgar and stuck in the 90s. Why do people bother? $$

asian Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120, open 9:00-21:00 One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food.

Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Basil & Lime (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, open 11:00-23:00, www.basil-lime.pl Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo.

Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? $$

Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel.

22 827 9707, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00, www. cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of

dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.chinagarden.pl Bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts. Goose jaws. Stewed bull’s penis with radish. Ah, these are meals for the brave. Allegedly the first Jiangsu restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes here are indeed unique. The China Garden isn’t the Imperial Palace, but the décor of straight-backed chairs and densely constructed wood tables casts an aura of formality. No lounging about here; serious eating is afoot! On the whole the dishes are delicate and delicious, and there are more cautious choices.

Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 447 2424, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-22:00 A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers.

The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $

Hanoi Pho (B3) Al. Solidarności 117, tel. 729 447 968, open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; 11:00-22:00, www. hanoipho.pl The cuisine of Vietnam is prolific in its representation in Warsaw, but by in large its food you wouldn’t feed a dog. In fact, in some cases you suspect that’s what the food is made of. Bucking the trend is Hanoi Pho, a light and modern eatery whose principal claim to fame are the excellent pho soups not to mention numerous noodle dishes, a few Thai surprises and their own-made tropical juices. $ InAzia (E5) ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Hotel), tel. 22 450 6705, open Mon-Sat 17:00-23:00; Sun 12:30-16:30, www.restauracja-inazia. pl “Blindingly good,” declares one reader, and indeed the pho soups and noodle dishes are of a high standard. Vietnamese cuisine doesn’t have the best reputation in this country, but Hanoi redresses the balance. The exhaustive menu also involves Thai dishes, which while unusually heavy represent value for money. $$$ www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants Natara Old Town (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501, open 11:00-23:00, www.natara.pl Set inside the Old Town walls, the setting is magical – from the outside. Inside, it’s all dowdy brown and plastic plants. Service, if you can call it that, teases patience to the max, but the food is fantastic. Everything we’ve tried on the menu goes right, not least the fiery red curry duck.

Highly recommended. $$ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, open 12:00-24:00, www.papaya.waw.pl A place of

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya has a varied menu that uses influences from all over Asia, though particularly Thailand. But the star attraction is Preecha Wongsomboon, a Thai chef who fuses cookery with cabaret from behind a teppanyaki grill – his skills draw gasps. But between the honking horns and nifty knife work it becomes clear this is no novelty show: the food is top notch. $$

Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl The center pin is a semi-circular bar, above which lamps hang from a ceiling made out of old Coca-Cola crates. There’s palm fronds, mismatching seats, cheerful colors, exposed pipes and industrial chains. Sacks of Haruka rice adorn one end, and on the other there’s floor-to-ceiling windows. It feels right, as does the food – a confident combination of sushi and Thai. We ordered fried beef, and were dealt a generous portion full of pleasing, punchy tastes, sticky rice and a deep, aromatic sauce. Just as good is the green tea ice cream, both cleansing and delicious. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot (D6) ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750, open 12:00-22:30. shabu-shabu.pl Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny.

We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.suparomthaifood.pl Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, open 12:00-23:00, www.thaithai.pl Sanad Changpuen, a man widely credited with popularizing Thai food in Poland, returns to Warsaw with predictable results: the food is a hit. And what a space this acclaimed chef has been blessed with: gold vaulted ceilings lend a muted glow to a largely black-on-black space; from the walls, serene looking Bud-

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dha’s peer on diners down below. At once, the soothing interiors ease guests into a state of inner peace while Sanad does the rest. $$ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307, open Mon-Fri 9:30-21:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-21:30 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.whythai.pl A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the notes one expects. $$ Yummy (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 797 830 639, open 10:00-21:00, www.restauracjayummy.pl A naff name and empty interiors are enough to deter some people – don’t join their ranks.

Dishes here are uncomplicated but never cease to impress in that classic comfort food way. We swear by the orange chicken. Looking modern, minimal and a cut above the other budget Asian eateries, it’s a decent choice for an informal meal. $

balkan & russian Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.banjaluka.pl Numerous meaty dishes from Serbia and Croatia are served inside Banja Luka, a Warsaw stalwart who’ve moved with the times and... moved. The new, central location is as pleasing as the last, with lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics. $$ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, open Mon 11:30-20:00; Tue & Wed 11:30-21:00; Thu & Fri 11:30-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it two days to decorate.

No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures. $

listings / restaurants british

A collaboration between two of Warsaw’s best known restaurant blogs (restaurantica.pl and froblog.pl), Warsaw Foodie has emerged as the No. 1 site for local food related stories. For more info, check: www.warsawfoodie.pl/en

British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsummer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team.

What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest, www.legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; 13:00-21:00, www.barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entrance on the burger circuit, the quality just doesn’t seem there anymore. The quantity is though, with BB entertaining eating competitions and serving Warsaw’s biggest burgers. $ Bobby Burger (C4) ul. E. Plater 47, tel. 785 833 603, pen 12:00-22:00, bobbyburger.pl Perplexingly popular with hipsters who wouldn’t know a good burger if their skinny jeans depended on it. Now sporting a new location (the old one on Żurawia also continues, alas), this bottom feeder continues to prove popularity isn’t always a measure of quality. $ Brooklyn Burgers & Wings (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 270 2144, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 People come here in droves, lured by a menu finessed by American / Polish chef Alan Bohinski. Not here meat and ketchup explosive devices that detonate all over your trousers, instead find neatly formed burgers made with prime Polish beef that’s ground onsite. And while you won’t need them, it’s a nice touch that they come served

BAZAR OLKUSKA (above) Open six days a week, Bazaar Olkuska (ul. Olkuska 12) brings together Polish and international produce in a revitalized building just off Puławska. A joint initiative between the owners of Burger Bar and Winkolekcja (also on the street), find retailers such as La Petite France, Damas, Happy Fish and Confectionery Nanette, plus independent sellers. Linking them all is the quality of the produce.

BOMBAJ MASALA

The second restaurant under the Bombaj Masala banner, their latest launch finds itself on Marynarkska 21 in Mokotów. Here, Indian cooks prepare traditional dishes based on Polish produce and Indian spices.

Open from breakfast, the menu includes Indian tandoor specialties and also several vegetarian and vegan dishes.

MERCATO

Following on from the success of their location on Próżna, Mercato have now launched a second location on Piękna 15. Featuring a delicatessen dominated by wine as well as groceries from niche Italian producers, there’s also a snack menu of pasta, risotto and soups. For summer, a substantial terrace has also been installed.

SUSHIMANIAK

The color palette is a direct referral to sushi: white for rice, green for wasabi and black for nori. The owners of Sushimaniak (ul. Cybernetyki 19b) claim their sushi has surprised many a skeptic, while the restaurant has been quick to draw custom on account of its lunch sets, home / office delivery and happy hours specials from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m.

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listings / restaurants with disposable gloves. Delicious homemade sauces, ribs and wings add to the draw. $

Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Wed 7:30-23:00; Thu-Fri 7:30-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-20:00, www. burgerkitchen.pl Formerly Burger Kitchen, the recent name change indicates a conscious shift towards other cuisines. Not that they’ve forgotten what it was that made them famous in the first place. Poland’s No. 1 burgers are still here, and widely acclaimed for their indestructible architecture, brioche buns, homemade ketchup and fine meat. $ Bydło i Powidło (A5) ul. Kolejowa 47, tel. 22 400 48 44, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00 Set in a modern glass prism, here’s a place that’s realized you can’t get away with just serving burgers anymore (though here, they’re very

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good indeed). Unfortunately, the steak part of the menu just isn’t there yet.

service and pimped up burgers that use gourmet ingredients. $

Ćwierćfunciak (C1) ul. Andersa 30, tel. 799 328 822, open Mon-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 Hidden in the gastronomic wasteland of Muranów, the impossibly named Ćwierćfunciak impresses with slathers of gloriously fresh ingredients, not to mention complimentary sides of hand-cut chips.

Ranked in the Insider’s Top 5 best burger joints, that the resident beers are sourced from Pinta earns this friendly local a few extra points. $

Queen Burger (E5) ul. Hoża 1a, tel. 733 142 492, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00 A new face over last summer, and one joyously received

by Warsaw’s burger aficionados. The look screams US roadside diner, but inside it’s all young city style mavens. The choice extends to house specialties such as gringo, teriyaki and femiburger, though our advice to meatheads is to simply stick to the classic cheeseburger: it’s a towering stack of ultra-satisfaction. We’ve experienced nightmarish waiting times, but like WarBurger, that’s just added proof they’re doing something very right. $

Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Sat 12:0020:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.warburger.pl Forget Year of the Dragon, 2012 was Year of the Burger – or more specifically, Year of the WarBurger. Edging the competition (at least till Burger Kitchen came along), this diminutive little cabin wins eulogies across the board for base-level prices, super friendly

Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735, open MonSat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 The use of artisan bread and burgers based primarily on rib-eye make this newcomer a standout.

We’re promised more additions to the menu, including ribs. Watch this space.

listings / restaurants cheap eats Fabryka Frytek (D4) ul. Złota 3, tel. 505 671 334, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. ul. Waryńskiego 9, tel. 505 671 334, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. fabrykafrytek.pl Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $ Groole (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.groole.pl You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry. A revelation! $

Justyna’s Secret Recipes (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 138, open Mon-Fri 7:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00. www. jsecretrecipes.com We’re told Justyna was inspired by the Pret-a-Manger chain.

Whatever the case, you just can’t fault her sandwiches which are fixed using proper imported bacon, organic sundries, and the freshest of bread. The delivery service is highly recommended for desk-bound officebots. $

23:00, www.manekin.pl Originally founded in Toruń, this pancake house chain is a national phenomenon – at times, queues for a table snake outside. The menu touts dozens of pancake options served in sweet and savory form (there’s even a spaghetti version…), and most agree they’re worth the ridiculous waiting times - waits in excess of 20 minutes (and considerably more) are the norm. $

La Farine Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 793 929 210, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, lafarine.pl Traditional-style Lebanese flat breads cooked to perfection inside a narrow little space which many passers-by confuse with a kebab shop – whatever you do, don’t do that yourself. Instead, think of it as Lebanese style pizza, only better. $

Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.meatlove.pl Not ones to stagnate, Meat Love have expanded in size, meaning there’s now plenty of room to sample their artisan sandwiches – the roast beef will make your knees tremble. But with this weather, most head to the shaded pavement terrace. Do so as well, and with a craft beer for company. $

Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753, open Sun-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-

Mr Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, open MonSat 11:00-10:00; Sun 12:00-8:00,

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listings / restaurants www.mrpancake.pl You’re just going to love their pancakes, with their fun, wacky look and creative toppings (M&Ms, funny faces traced with icing sugar, and lots of chocolatey stuff). They’re the sort of pancakes you’d get if Bart Simpson got stoned and decided to make some food – brilliant. $

A Good Sense of Hummus It’s been statistically proven that if you can get 50 locals liking something, the rest of Warsaw will like it as well – at least for the summer. As a feeble slave to trends, the latest culinary wave to wash over Warsaw is hummus, with the fad threatening to submerge the city much the same way burgers did in 2012 and food trucks the year after.

Once exclusive to a smattering of Middle Eastern restaurants (i.e. the consistently magnificent Le Cedre shown above), the global love affair with the chickpea dip breached the Polish capital this summer, and has so far seen numerous little outlets spring up across hipster frontlines such as Powiśle and Poznańska.

While yet to embrace international flavor twists like Thai coconut, peanut butter or jalapeno hummus, a broadening local palette makes the next big step a matter of time. So far a cult amongst the creative classes (beards, green trousers, silly body ink), whether hummus breaks through and achieves the mainstream adulation as burgers and food vans will be decided over summer. In the meantime, keep your eyes trained on the trendsetters: Beirut ul. Poznańska 12 BeKef ul. Hoża 40 HummusBar ul. Żelazna 64 / Topiel 19 I Love Hummus ul. Olkuska 12 (Bazar Olkuska) LafLaf ul. Marszałkowska 68/70 Mezze ul. Różana 1 Pan Szama ul. Chłodna 47

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To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, open 11:00-20:00, www.chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! $ Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-19:00 Imported German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh buns to go with them. The currywurst is just like the one you had at Berlin Hauptbahnhof. $

french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732, www. stalowa52.pl, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:30-22:00 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings. It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic – our vol au vent starter was dry and devoid of taste, while the chocolate ‘cream’ dessert was a runny, ugly looking disappointment. But there is potential: the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a wellexecuted orange and caramel sauce. $$ Bistro La Cocotte ul. Mokotowska 12, tel. 664 906 000, open 10:00-23:00. With access through a shadowy courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself. Presenting itself in a riot of red and white gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen and the atmosphere of home.

The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jours. Over two visits we’ve enjoyed both the beef carbanade and moules mariniere.

Bistro Pigalle (D5) ul. Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska), tel. 881 000 182 They say it takes six months for a restaurant to find its feet: Pigalle needs that six months for our first visit was a disaster – smeared, smudged fittings and steak so undercooked you could hear it moo. But we’re already hearing of improvements and fixes being made so there’s hope yet for this newborn restaurant. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, open 10:00-last guest, www.larc.pl A place of considered elegance, subtle decorations and monochrome colors. They’re especially noted for their obsessive attitude to seafood (pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing), inventive mains and desserts that are heaven. $$

Le Bistro Rozbrat ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 22 881 7808, open 12:00-24:00.

The signs suggest that Powiśle is set to mature in 2014, making the transition from hipster haunt to restaurant breeding ground – and here is Exhibit A. Owned by Frenchman Alain Budzyk, the interiors are contemporary casual, with talking points saved for the food. The concise menu has token nods to Spanish cuisine, as well as a steak bavette that’s being raved about on the blogs. $$ Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria), tel. 22 657 8332, open Mon-Sat12:00-24:00, www.sofitel-victoriawarsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look

listings / restaurants at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. Always leave room for dessert, especially the ‘pear trio’ – delicate and refreshing and with the right hint of sweet.

german Adler (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00, www.adlerrestauracja.pl Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

greek & turkish Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, open 12:00-last guest, www.paros-restauracja.pl Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.

php Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milefi dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 On the design front it’s almost a straight plagiary of Charlotte: white brickwork, blackboard, communal table. So the surprise here is the food – Turkish. And not just any Turkish, but brilliant Turkish!

It’s nothing fancy, but there’s a real honest quality to the moussaka and lamb and beef in tomato sauce. And the desserts are a real spoiler as well. $

indian Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, open 11:00-23:00, www.bombajmasala.pl A position on the doorstep of Warsaw’s financial quarter keeps business brisk, but while Bombaj Masala thrives on its reputation as an upmarket Indian restaurant, the food lets it down. We’ve repeatedly been disappointed by the food, which is unanimously decried as both over-priced and over-rated. $$

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri&Sat 11:00-24:00, www.buddha. info.pl The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is a favorite of ours though the real plus here is the consistency: it’s always a solid bet. $ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 11:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl Not only does Chmielarnia house some of the world’s best beers (see Nightlife), but also – as the shrine by the door may suggest – a very good restaurant. Sure, you’re eating in a dark and loud beer cellar (to us that’s a bonus), but the Nepalese chef Ram knows what he’s doing. And aside from Indian and Nepalese staples, there’s a menu tailor-made for the beer swiggers. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774 & al. Ken 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open daily 11:00-22:00, curryhouse.com.pl A primitive design (port-a-loo toilet, barred windows) and far-flung location have not hindered Curry House one bit. It’s a legend, not least for their vindaloo – a macho dish that

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl Cesarski Palace has thrived in Warsaw for 18 years – from the outset we were the first to offer authentic Chinese dishes, including our signature Peking Duck which comes baked in a custom-made oven and served with pancakes, cucumbers, por and a special sauce.

Expect personalized service and special attention from the chef inside a restaurant sensitive to Feng Shui requirements. There’s nothing comparable to our perfect tastes!

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listings / restaurants provokes spontaneous combustion. Be warned: no beer. $ Ganesh (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 416 4162, open 12:00-24:00, www.ganesh. pl Vast and usually empty the new Ganesh lacks the intimacy of the previous outpost on Wilcza and already looks a little scuffed and tired. While other Indian giants such as Rain and Tandoor have reinvented and rebooted themselves Ganesh plug away with an old menu of standard (and occasionally sub-standard) dishes. With excellence assured in Tandoor round the corner, you wouldn’t bet on Ganesh filling their million vacant tables. $$ Madras Al. Solidarnosci 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open 11:00-22:00.A swirl of rumors surrounded Madras this summer, buoyed in part by an ad announcing the sale of the place. Rest assured it remains. Rated as the Insider’s No. 1 source for curry, while it looks cheap, cramped and claustrophobic Madras continues to earn its spurs for marvelous food. There are softer options available, but for a proper near death experience order the vindaloo: even your hair will feel like it’s on fire. As the burning euphoria subsides, you’re left basking in that blissful glow all hotheads will know. $ Namaste India (D1 & D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, tel. 22 635 7766, open 10:30-23:00, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 357 0939, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:30; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.namasteindia.pl A ferociously loyal customer base proclaim this as their favorite curry in town. Highly recommended, find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $

Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.rain.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look, while the shaded courtyard garden is one of the best about town. The real credit for Rain’s resuscitation though belongs to the kitchen: our curry expert rates the

starters as the best he’s had in any Indian restaurant. And the mains continue the form with a magnificent lamb tikka masala.

The tiffins lunch deals are outstanding as well. $$ Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 622 9410, open 12:00-23:00, www.saffronspices.pl Set on two floors Saffron has a menu more limited than most, though they have at least finally introduced alcohol. The murgh makhani is inconsistent, and the chicken, in the words of one reader, ‘strange’. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22 825 2375, open 12:00-22:30, www.tandoor. com.pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen not just the interior modernized, but the menu – start with the pea and basil soup before moving onto the chicken tamarind or the chicken sholay kebab. Coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table. Traditionalists will also approve: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable chicken tikka butter masala. After a couple of years in the doldrums, Tandoor is back with a bang. $$

international

that fits seamlessly with the white-on-white interiors. $$ A Nóż (D9) ul. Różana 30, tel. 608 386 388, open daily 9:00-23:00, www.anoz.pl ‘A Jack of all trades, master of none,’ you might think.

You’d be wrong. Burgers, pastas, Asianinspired salads, and pizzas are represented, and while some dishes require fine-tuning, the overall impression is positive. Paired with a cool, typically Warsaw interior (white, white, white), the owners have a real success story on their hands. $ Autorskie Bistro & Cafe ul. Św. Wincentego 95/3, tel. 531 510 460, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Tue-Sun 10:0022:00 You can tell Warsaw’s in the midst of a foodie revolution when even far flung Targówek has a restaurant of note. In charge of the kitchen is Piotr Wielgo, former head chef at the US Embassy, and his menu is a modern, international affair (with several Polish touches) that celebrates local, seasonal ingredients. The sirloin is a standout, and served inside a light, chic interior dotted with images of old Targówek. $$ Bistecca Bistro ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.bistecca.pl It happened so suddenly.

Warsaw went from meat loser to meat lover in the space of a year. Bistecca, opened over 2 years ago, was one of the early pioneers, and

12 Stolików ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 795 373 815, open 9:00-23:00 Affecting a boutique style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that promotes cooking as a form of theater.

The menu is chalked on a board, and while the aglio e olio was overcooked, the big guns came out for the steak: a very decent piece of meat. Enjoyable enough, though nothing particularly memorable. $$ Akademia (E9) ul. Różana 2, tel. 22 828 99 11, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www.restauracjaakademia.pl The most high profile launch of 2013, with whole sections of the street blocked off to keep the beautiful people from being molested by the public.

But while the prevailing attitude is snooty, chef Grzegorz Nowakowski has done an excellent job on an artfully simple menu www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants to date remains one of the best. That people travel from well outside Wilanów to sample its delights speaks volumes. Pride of place goes to their signature Bistecca steak: a one kilo T-Bone shaped joint with strip steak on one side and tenderloin on the other. For the thrill of DIY tableside cooking, order one of their ‘various kinds of meat grilled over volcanic stone’.

Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3223, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00- 18:00, www.boathouse.pl For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of parkland. The menu is Mediterranean in style with strong hints of Italian, though how they fare having lost their French chef Luc remains to be seen. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl A posh looking bistro whose credentials are supported by crisp shirted staff, gleaming surfaces and zinc mirrors. The Fine de Claire oysters on a bed of fennel are outstanding, but what catches the attention of the ex-pats is the English influence of an owner who once managed The Grill at London’s Dorchester Hotel. The Friday fish & chips win emphatic approval. The Sunday roast lacks gravy and consistency, and you may find yourself asking for extra red wine sauce to moisten

the Yorkshire Pudding – but it’s worth the chance; when everything goes right it’s utterly victorious. $$$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, open MonSat 12:00-22:00, www.butcheryandwine.pl Has it really been that long? Opened to wide acclaim in 2011, Butchery & Wine stirred Warsaw’s appetite for quality red meat.

Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach and the wine list suited to the meat fest in front. Many hail this as Poland’s best steak, and you can definitely see where they’re coming from. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac luxury department store, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct: five course set lunch menus from zł. 50, served between 11:00 and 16:00. Modern designer dining rarely gets better. $$$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, open 12:00-24:00, www.derelefant.com A Titanic-sized restaurant with a disorganized menu that appears to have been devised by throwing darts at a cookbook: Mediterranean mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc.

But if the menu is blurry, the cooking isn’t: it’s average to good. The interiors are a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles, and frequently pack out to the rafters with families and other unwieldy groups. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745, open Mon-Fri for Breakfast 6:30-10:00; Sat 6:30-11:00, 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 12:0016:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00, dinner 18:00-23:00 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$ Dwie Trzecie ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 605 589 588, open 12:00-24:00 They’ve taken on a reputedly cursed location, but chef Marcin Jabłoński looks like a man capable of breaking the hex.

Think author’s cuisine with a Mediterranean twist and plenty of surprises along the way – edible flowers, nitrogen blasts, etc.

The hangar steak scores big points, while the mid-market prices belie the high standard.

Pleasingly, you get the idea Dwie Trzecie will work in all seasons: raw enough for summer, yet also intimate for winter. $$

Le Cedre 84

Le Cedre 61

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99 lecedre84@lecedre.pl

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66 lecedre@lecedre.pl

Taste the Exotic

www.lecedre.pl

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listings / restaurants Hoża by Mondovino (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00 Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows.

A red blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, open Sun-Mon 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.facebook.com/dwichlab Referred to by some as the “poor man’s Atelier Amaro”, this haunt has a high communal seating plan and a hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food. The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks – sometimes faster. The chef is known for his trial-and-error attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut. Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine. Go there. $$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Casual Dining” Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Wed 7:30-23:00; Thu-Fri 7:30-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-20:00, www. burgerkitchen.pl What was once Burger Kitchen has had a name change to reflect a new direction that encompasses Italian polpo and handmade ravioli, an aged meat selection, not to mention a few Middle Eastern and Asian influences inspired by chef Tomek Woźniak’s global travels. Outstanding quality, a casual ambience and an avowed commitment to natural ingredients make it a must. And, FYI, Warsaw’s best burgers will remain on the menu.

La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel.

22 531 6070, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 7:00-11:00,12:0023:00, www.leregina.com Truly, one of the standout dining rooms of Poland. Many have commented on the Michelin quality of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s restaurant, and you may consider the lack of a star one of the puzzles of the modern world. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and is built for superlatives: the slow-roasted rack of Welsh lamb was one of our highlights of 2013. Find Oszczyk ably

supported by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier, and wonderfully BEST WAWA 2013 charismatic staff. $$$ “Chef” Momu.Gastrobar (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, www.momu.pl Tapas-style portions of experimental-looking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket.

A new concept for Warsaw, it’s been a case of so far so good for Momu. $

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel.

22 292 0424, open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00, www.nolita.pl A swank center restaurant anchored on the skills of Jacek Grochowina – a young talent who honed his skills at the London Ritz. Looking chic and high end, advance bookings are recommended if you wish to enjoy this top-class experience. Some of the taste and sensations are utterly unexpected, with the Insider left speechless after enjoying the tuna tartar (zł.49) and aged beef fillet (zł. 97). Privately, many have been left bewildered by the lack of Michelin star. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Fine Dining”

A modern, urban cocktail bar, which in addition to the full range of spirits and exotic composition drinks and cocktails will delight with its sophisticated sushi and delicious Thai cuisine.

An attractive location in the center, right by Rondo ONZ, makes us an easy platform for lunch meetings, business dinners and evening visits.

Our casual atmosphere, industrial design and professional, friendly service guarantees a great time. ul. Świętokrzyska 36 patera.com.pl tel. 535 333 123

Norma ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 828 0130, open 12:00-23:00, www.restauracjanorma.pl Diners step in to find neutral, natural colors offset by Walton Ford paintings depicting wild, tethered animals, and warm lighting provided by way of bare bulbs wrapped around the rafters. But what of the menu?

That’s been conceived by chef Kuba Korczak, a familiar name to slow food enthusiasts. His food is an inventive presentation of natural, local produce, and includes subtle influences from both Italy and Asia. The kaszanka is deep and rich but the biggest success is the cod with apple puree: rolling in strong, unique flavors it’s completely astonishing. $$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, open 12:00-last guest, www.nowakuznia. pl A mere step from Wilanów’s 18th century church, this onetime blacksmith passes www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants muster for excellent steaks and fresh salads practically plucked from a garden. In season, the summer terrace is magical, and the place even touts a faux beach complete with diggers and slides for the kids. $$ Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, open 12:00-23:00, restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft

wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents come paired with a wine list selected by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with an immense reputation. $$

rity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed.

An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$

Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734 or 22 328 8730, open Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 17:30-23:00, www.platter.pl The hotel has roped in celeb-

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, open daily 12:00-22:00, www. qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.restaurant99.com Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit. No longer the top dog for business wining / dining, it nonetheless remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$ Rozbrat 20 (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295, open Mon-Fri 7:30-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last guest, www.rozbrat20.pl Everything a restaurant should be – modern, but not too excessive, as well as traditional at the same time. Elegance emanates from everything and class glints off the silver champagne bowl and tasteful crockery. The menu is a contemporary, international affair, much like the crowd who appreciate it. $$

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel.

22 584 8771, www. saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$

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listings / restaurants Senses ul. Bielańska 12, tel.

22 331 9697, open Mon-Fri 12:00-14:30, 17:30-22:00; Sat 17:30-22:00, www.sensesrestaurant.pl The entrance alone is a thing of fancy and accessed through a long open-air corridor, one side flanked by the office block, the other by bullet grazed brickwork. Flickering flames dance on either side, the tall walls disappearing into the night sky above. Recommended is the six course tasting menu (zł. 230), which on our visit included eel, smoked at the table, duck with onion chutney and pepper mousse and swordfish served amid billowing ‘sea essence’. Comparisons to Atelier Amaro are inevitable, and speak volumes for the innovation and talents of chef Andrea Camastra. $$$ Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, open 12:00-23:00, www.signaturerestaurant.pl ‘Kilian who?’ people asked when Wojciech Kilian was installed as head chef. But this young talent has had the last laugh: set to be Poland’s next big chef, his cooking is extraordinary and presents true fine dining at bargain prices. Kilian’s cause is complimented by a beautiful design described by one reader as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’.

Think: friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed

Milton Greene. You feel a millionaire just being here. $$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Restaurant Design”

Skandal (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 4, tel. 22 350 0444, open Mon-Fri 7:30-24:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00, www.skandalbistrobar.pl Skandal’s look is light and clear headed with the ground floor statement piece being a collection of cool hanging lights all bunched together. Beautiful. There’s only six or so mains to choose from, but they’re a triumph: the sous-vide duck was a dish of real merit and worth well in excess of the zł. 39 price. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. www.solec.waw.pl With all the hipsters mincing about it sure doesn’t look like a restaurant: diners line-up at the counter to order, before sitting down in a spontaneous looking interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games.

Chef Aleksander Baron is an absolute star, and his daily changing menu (hourly changing, even), presents soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients.

His eye for good meat is undisputed, making it the best alternate dining experience you’ll see for a while. $$

Soul Kitchen (D6) ul. Noakowskiego 16, tel. 519 020 888, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.soulkitchen.pl Chef Andrzej Polan has masterminded a beautiful, modern menu whose highlights include cod with spearmint yogurt. While the interior is the definition of urban chic, you’re urged to take advantage of the garden: complete with grass and tooting musical neighbors. $$ Sowa & Przyjaciele (G8) ul. Gagarina 2, tel. 795 505 152, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.sowaiprzyjaciele.pl Rocked by its involvement in a government bugging scandal, Robert Sowa has moved fast to reassure customers that all is well in his restaurant. And we can as well. Looking the part with its soft colors and warm lighting, positives are underlined by a sommelier with a sixth sense and a barnstorming menu that merits attention. Sowa is one of the biggest names in Polish cooking, and you may fear he spends more time on TV than he does on his kitchen: we’re happy to report on all of our visits we’ve seen him emerge from the background, sharing backslaps and bear hugs with his regular clientele. $$$ Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00, www.

“Casual fine dining in the heart of Warsaw” ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita.pl. For reservations: rezerwacja@nolita.pl Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00

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listings / restaurants restauracjastrefa.pl Just what were they thinking ignoring the form book like that?

No communal tables, no pipes and no rough-hewn bricks. Instead, there’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service.

What a refreshing change. The chef favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, open Mon-

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Sun 10:00-23:00, www.tamka.43.pl There is an inspiration here which causes guests to linger over their meal, explore it and wonder at it. Food isn’t the background; it is the centerpiece. While Robert Trzópek has left the kitchen, he’s been ably replaced by Rafał Hreczaniuk – his menu pitches modern techniques against traditional, primarily root ingredients. It’s pretty wonderful, though the prices are ambitious. $$$

a restaurant fortified is to be expected; to leave delighted is the mark of quality. With a clever L-shaped interior, a natural terrace and a gleaming white ceramic kitchen it looks good, but it’s the food that earns the plaudits. Dominik Moskalenko, the executive chef who cut his teeth on Amber Room has been a central part of this creation from the beginning and the fruits of his labor are mouth-watering. $$

Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 400 1122, open daily 11:30-22:30, www.taste.pl To leave

Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285, open Mon 9:30-20:00; Tue-Thu 9:30-22:00; Fri 9:30-

listings / restaurants 23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs.

And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere.

Pairing international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $

Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.bacio.pl New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$

Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 2500, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera.pl Everyone enjoys the food, and Jakub Adamczyk’s seasonally adjusted menu is indeed a thing of greatness: the beef tenderloin is a must, while the rhubarb parfait a dessert of distinction. The prices reflect the quality of the kitchen, but certainly not that of the wait staff – a year after opening, and Winosfera still haven’t ironed out issues such as front-of-house staff who greet guests with an ‘Uh’. $$$

Chianti (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 828 0222, www.kregliccy.pl, open 12:00-23:00 Contemporary, pared down interiors and a menu devised and mastered by chef Samuele Mariani have seen Chianti return to its best. Making use of local produce and imported ingredients, this modern interpretation of Italian cuisine is championed by numerous Italian expats.

You can’t say fairer than that. $$

Wootwórnia ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 696 259, open 10:00-22:00, www.wootwornia.pl.

Accessed round a back garden, Wootwórnia feels like a private little secret – you get the sensation not of visiting a restaurant, but of visiting a friend. The dominant element is the counter, from which co-owner Agnes Woo showcases her homemade preserves and own-baked cakes. Sourcing ingredients from small-scale local farms, here is a menu designed to nourish the soul. And it does just that. The tomato soup, enriched with hint of orange, aniseed and cinnamon isn’t soup of the day, it’s our soup of the year.

Genuine ‘food from the heart’. $$

italian Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, open 12:00-22:00 A dark and dimmed space – fashionably sparse – with white wall tiles and eclectic wallpaper climbing to the exposed pipes above. The menu is a simple laminated affair with eleven ‘pizza rosse’ and eight ‘pizza biance’, as well as a scattering of other Italian dishes. Cooked up by Lino and Fabio, the result is Warsaw’s most extraordinary pizzas: yep, the place is even endorsed by the city’s notoriously picky Italian community. $

Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www.delizia.com. pl The reasons for Delizia’s success are twofold: Luca and Lorenzo. Luca’s the front man, a charismatic chap and natural showman. In his hands, you’ll feel like a star. Then there’s Lorenzo, the chef out the back. Between the pair of them they’ve turned this tiny little venue into Warsaw’s most convincing Italian enterprise. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, tasteful interiors and brilliant food: what more do you need? How about a recommendation from Michelin… $$ La Tomatina (D5) ul. Krucza 47A, tel. 22 625 1047, open Sun-Thu 10:30-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:30-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.latomatina.pl Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from good pizzas served in modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. Our spicy tiger prawn spaghetti was also okay, even if the presentation looked like a student had cooked it. $ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-20:00 When Michelin starred chef Wojciech Amaro pops in with his family you know something is going right. Here the statement piece is a Stefano Ferrara Napoli www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants oven, used to maximum effect to create pizzas which have come to be considered amongst Warsaw’s best. Import ingredients like Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and Caputo flour add to the authenticity, and there’s a medley of other ‘staples from Naples’. $ Mamma Marietta (C9) ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071, open 12:00-22:00, www.mammamarietta.com A scattering of tables make reservations recommended in Mamma Marietta, an informal looking restaurant with lugubrious interiors and solemn service. But the food, created by head chef Andrea, has an authenticity that’s rare in a city whose enthusiasm for Italian food isn’t always reflected by quality. The tomato soup starter, is deliciously thick and almost worth the trip itself. $$ Nonna Rita (C1) ul. Freta 41/43, tel. 884 903 488, open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest, nonnarita.pl Traditional Roman carbonara, pizza cooked in a stone oven and authentic produce are a

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couple of boxes that Rita has ticked. Matched with a scenic New Town location and you have a spot that invariably woos the summer tourist crowds. $$ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306, open 12:00-23:00 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant.

Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, open 12:00-last guest, www.sanlorenzo. pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price. It’s in here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$

Superiore (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34, tel. 506 404 059, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00, www.superiorewinebar.pl A hybrid wine shop, deli and restaurant, with an owner who prefers to think about the enjoyment of your dining experience rather than his cash till. The veal pasta is the bestselling dish here for very good reason. $$ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat & Sun 6:30-11:00 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$ Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 575 457 & ul.

Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, open daily 12:00-22:00 & ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 465 1836, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.trattoriarucola. pl Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side to cover Old

listings / restaurants Town and the center. The M.O is replicated in all venues, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $ Vapiano Al. Jerozolimskie 63, tel. 22 356 10 50, open Mon-Thu 9:00-23:00, Fri 9:00-1:00; Sat 11:00-1:00, Sun 11:00-22:00 & ul. Taśmowa 7 (Marynarska Business Park) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) www.vapiano.de/pl Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype.

Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1094, open 6:30-23:00 The high class confines of the Regent Hotel are the home of Venti Tre, a contemporary restaurant with an open kitchen, and a Mediterranean inspired menu constructed using carefully sourced ingredients from local suppliers. The results are befitting of one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$

japanese & sushi Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 & ul. Biały Kamień 4, tel. 22 424 0055, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.izumisushi.eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking.

Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$ Robata by Akashia Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767, www. akashia.pl, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 Upstairs is raw and red and black, while downstairs is more calming, though no less interesting: it’s like stepping into a Manga comic, what with the Godzilla graffiti and industrial format. Even the staff look like they’ve been ordered to dress up like Tokyo cool kids. The star here though is the robata grill. We opted for a ‘spray and pray’ approach: ordering lots of little dishes in the hope something would come up trumps. In the event, everything did. $$

Ryż i Ryba (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, open Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, www.ryziryba.pl The art of sushi is given a new lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, Mon-Sat 12:0022:30, Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold and creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 hoza@mondovino.pl Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Tekeda Sushi & Wok (D1) ul. Freta 18, tel. 600 351 818 & ul.

Meissnera 1/3, tel. 606 236 050, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.sushitekeda.pl Tekeda get it right with a good balance of sushi and ramen dishes. The grilled maki is particularly pleasing. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.tomo.pl Excellent.

While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Wasabi Pl. Piłsudskiego 2, tel. 22 314 6963, open www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-19:00, restauracjawasabi.pl A humdrum design shouldn’t be allowed to detract from what’s rated as the best value for money deal on sushi you’ll find in the city. The sets are a phenomenal deal, and the crowd a welcome step back from the preening posers of Sakana nearby. $$

jewish Galil (C3) ul. Zielna 36, tel. 731 492 634, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Sun 14:00-23:00, www.galil-restaurant.pl There’s been a few Jewish restaurants opened in the last couple of years, and they’ve all quickly folded.

Already though, there’s the impression Galil might last the distance, a point underlined by the rather good food. We started with a zesty tabouleh before moving on to grilled chicken breast with dates and a syrup glaze. Set inside a rambling, tiled interior, this labyrinthine space already looks like

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its snaring big-spending groups. Kosher certified, as well. $$

latin & mexican Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, open Sun-Thu 9:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00, www.aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good.

This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.bluecactus.pl It’s been around for so long that people had

started referring to the Cactus in the past tense. Enter executive chef Patrick Hanna, a man who has revitalized and revived the place in a way no-one could have imagined.

Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, Hanna has reawakened this sleeping giant. Committed to local produce and fresh flavors, his finest moment has been hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Say it loudly: the Blue Cactus is back! $$

Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, www.casapablo.pl While increasingly well represented in the capital, Spanish food has been pointed in a new direction by Casa Pablo. Breaking away from hackneyed clichés, the eclectic interior (tartan colors, crates, a century old mirror) is reflective of a

listings / restaurants menu that places equal importance on flair, quality and elements of fine dining. Based on the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, find the likes of pork ribs in hoi sin and honey sauce introduced, not to mention cod cooked at 45 C and served with pigs trotters. You’ll be amazed. $$ Dos Tacos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.dostacos.pl Found high up in the increasingly naff-looking Millennium Plaza, Dos Tacos is adorned with Aztec murals and cartoonish finishes. A growing number of Americans can be found making their way to Floor 5 of the Millennium, and that’s to sample an exciting range of salsas and a solid menu of Mexican staples. $ Ole Tapas (E5) ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.ole-restaurant.pl A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a

Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Dogged by failed ventures, this prime location has been gagging for a success story – and it’s got one. The food is good, which has to count for something: from light bites like tortillas, to pots of fresh mussels, everything we’ve tried in this Hispanic-themed spot has been culinary gold. Hanging hocks of ham come scattered around casual, intimate interiors, and further brownie points are gained for a smoking room that doesn’t choke you as well as hilarious toilets (lads, see if you measure up…). $$ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, open 12:00-last guest,

www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Howling hot salsas and freshly made tortillas give WTF a head start on other restaurants, but there are other strings to their poncho: the menu has been slimmed and continues to be tinkered with, while the introduction of zł. 19 lunches – served on Alcatraz trays – present one of the best deals in town. We’ve enjoyed the burritos here for years, and score them as the best in town. $$

middle eastern HeyooDubai (B2) Al. Jana Pawła 45/54, tel. 535 075 770, open 11:00-23:00, tagine.pl Any doubts you have about a restaurant trying to cover the cuisine of Morocco, Pakistan and the Gulf states is immediately dispelled by the thick, rich aromas that pour from the traditional Mandi oven. The couscous is stalwart, and

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if you mention the Warsaw Insider

Authentic French Bistro ul. Rozbrat 44A 00-419 Warszawa +48 22 881 78 07 +48 788 95 97 97 www.lebistrorozbrat.pl www.facebook.com/LeBistroRozbrat

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listings / restaurants the charcoal grilled chicken a dish of real standing. Affordable and casual, Heyoo is the real deal. $$

Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, open daily 11:00-23:00, www. lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, open 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri Sat 12:00-23:00;

Sun 12:00-22:00, www.sokotra.pl A Yemeni restaurant with a brief menu full of recognizable Eastern dishes like hummus and grilled halloumi. And one of the big boons is the discovery that Indian influences also fall under the compass of Yemeni cuisine – the madras leaves you puffing smoke rings. Find all that in a casual interior composed of chattery locals and mysterious concrete additions – e.g. a telegraph pole squeezed amid the tables. $$

dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$

Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, open Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30, www. aterlieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier has no rival – this is the best restaurant in the country, bar none. Find a tasting menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 “Outstanding Achievement”

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure.

Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish

Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, open daily 12:00-24:00, www.bazyliszek. waw.pl Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant.

Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $

polish

Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, open 12:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00); Sun 12:00-22:00, www.bialages.pl For that elegant touch of Zhivago-era class, it’s got to be Biała Gęś. Interiors conjure images of a countryside manor; you imagine rolling up here after a day shooting foxes. Yet it’s not those blighters on the menu, but geese.

That’s the house specialty, and you’d do well to find better. A whole bird for four is yours for zł. 490. $$$

Exotic Moroccan Tajines & Couscous Mandi Oven + Charcoal Grill Enjoy the unique taste from Morocco and the Arab World HeyooDubai Restaurant Al. Jana Pawla 45/54 Tel. 535 075 770 Open daily 11:00-23:00 www.facebook.com/heyoodubai; www.tagine.pl

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Bistro Warszawa (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. 22 635 3769, open daily 12:00-24:00, www.bistrowarszawa.pl The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds

TR A D I T I O N A L P OLISH CUISINE

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 Polonia House in Warsaw tel. +48 22 826 47 70 e-mail : info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

listings / restaurants of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw people city-wide. $$ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00, www.dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer just to see it. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, open daily 12:00-last guest, www. delicjapolska.pl It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjadompolski.pl Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, open

daily 12:00-midnight, www.folkgospoda.pl To quote an unknown source, traditional Polish food is a celebration of ‘heritage, culture, singing and vodka.’ But snooty Warsaw doesn’t do traditional, at least not in the same way tourist havens like Kraków do. So it’s a joy to find Folk Gospoda. Good humored and filled with gnarled furniture and mountain songs, it’s a place where warm memories are made. Mains are a manly affair (solid, meaty and generous in size) and arrive courtesy of waiters dressed as Zakopane tinkers. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, open daily 12:00-24:00 (kitchen to 23:00), www.czerwonywieprz.pl Now everyone is rich and happy, it’s easy to forget communism was a pretty dire experiment. Which explains the playful nature of this commie themed restaurant. Dining is done under red banners and paintings of nasty political activists, while the menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the dignitary and proletariat – all details that saw it names as one of the Top 25 Unique Restaurants in the World. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$ Kafe Zielony Niedwiedz (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, open 8:00-23:00. The Smolna address is a bit misleading – in reality, you’ll be traipsing down into the park under the ‘hammer head’ tower before reaching Zbyszek Kmieć’s restaurant. But you’ll be glad you did. The

Authentic Portuguese cuisine with an excellent selection of wine ul. Merliniego 2 tel. 22 898 0925 restauracja@portucale.pl www.portucale.pl

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menu has hints of Atelier Amaro in its fiendish attention to natural Polish produce: the cream of beetroot soup is peerless, and the boar ragout gains similar approval. This is a happy marriage where traditions are turned on their head using creative techniques and precise presentation. At the same time, be warned the scene here might not appeal: it’s very stars in your eyes as Polish celebs – both major and minor – swan about while their acolytes simper. $$ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, open MonSat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www. podwale25.pl Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate.

Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic.

Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00 Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $

Chef José Costa Invites you!

listings / restaurants with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, open 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjarozana. com.pl Touting a refined, baronial setting, Rożana has starchy white linen, floral pieces and flickering candles, giving off plenty of classic charm in the best possible taste.

With indulgent mains such as farmhouse duck with apple and cranberry, or saddle of venison with homemade pickle, this is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table.

U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, open 12:00-last guest, www.ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is paired by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.uszwejka.pl Named after fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, open 11:00-23:00 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, open 10:00-22:00, www.zapiecek.eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional,

scandinavian Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www. nabocafe.pl The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food?

There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$

seafood Seaside Bistro (D5) ul. Wilcza 26, tel. 607 562 122, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:0021:00 Who doesn’t like being greeted at the door by a hearty buongiorno? That comes from Mario, a chef who insists on flying his ingredients daily from Italy. The seafood is the best we’ve had in Warsaw: huge shrimps, and mussels served in an invigorating white wine sauce that’s both salty and spicy. The interior is a simple fisherman’s cabin space, and it’s easy to overlook details such as scraggy tables and obnoxious expats with slicked back hair and big, chunky watches: with food like this, who cares? $$

Nominated as Best New Restaurant 2012 by Gazeta Wyborcza and Warsaw Insider Named Best New Restaurant 2012

by Froblog Seasonal Polish Cuisine Summer Garden Live Music on Fridays and Saturdays ul. Noakowskiego 16 tel. 519 020 888 www.soulkitchen.pl

specialty food shops African Shop ul. Andersa 27, tel. 507 247 292, open MonSat 10:00-20:00, www.afroeuro.eu Beans, beverages, flour and soup thickeners. Hair products and cosmetics also available, and they promise to be bringing in Abyssinian coffee in the near future as well. ‘’Excellent,’’ gushes one Zimbabwean connection.

Bazar Olkuska ul. Olkuska 12, open Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00; Sat 7:30-16:00 Filling the void left by the

Chef Andrzej Polan www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants departure of Hala Koszyki, Bazar Olkuska garners together an array of top suppliers for your grocery wants and needs: stalls include those of I Love Hummus, La Petit France, Crazy Butcher and Damas. Ethnically varied, the principle narrative strand connecting them all is the quality.

Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, www.befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this

operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’.

Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend.

Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items like Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc.

New to Warsaw!

Outdoor cooking classes with a pair of crazy Warsaw guides!

Presenting Polish cuisine in a way never seen before, Marcin and Adam will give you a trip to remember…

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

Le Targ ul. Mińska 25 (SOHO Factory), tel. 603 051 116, open Sat 10:00-15:00 Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves, Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul.

Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves.

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Martin’s Good Meat ul. Przejazd 4/7, tel. 797 866 131, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00 Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef, not to mention lamb,

veal and seasoned steaks. A candidate for Warsaw’s best butchery, no less!

Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service.

Targ Śniadaniowy al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.targsniadaniowy.pl The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must.

Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town.

whole foods Krowarzywa (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 516 894 767, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00 Even committed meat eaters concede there’s something special here. This is a burger bar with a difference: the stuff between the bun is vegan – and way superior to the majority of ‘proper’ burger bars. Very popular with the local hipsters, so anticipate bewildering fashion statements and eccentric hair. $ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.lovinghut.waw.pl What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. Now also found downtown on Waryńskiego 3 $ W Gruncie Rzeczy (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 692 464 489, open 10:00-23:00 A vegan haven whose menu is heavily slanted towards local produce. The offer includes a number of vegan pastes, sandwiches, beetroot burgers and soups (e.g. cream of pumpkin with coconut milk). The presence of equally hip Meat Love next door is something of a foil, with the two neighbors naturally complimenting each other. $

cafes & wine bars cafés Blikle (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35 (check website for other locations), tel. 22 826 6619, open Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-last guest, www. blikle.pl There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100 year history.

Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who swore by their donuts.

Bułkę przez Bibułkę (E8) ul. Puławska 24, tel. 794 000 634, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-16:00, www.bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place.

Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

THE FAMOUS FIVE: ICE CREAM BUDKA Z LODAMI (Francuska 30) This innocuous wooden cabin has become a summer staple for Sunday Saska strollers. Natural ingredients and creative flavor combinations have installed it as a legend.

CIEPŁE ZIMNE (Wilcza 17) Looking every inch the cliché ice cream parlour, Ciepłe Zimne don’t have many surprises up their sleeve, but they do score heavy points. Their watermelon ice cream is a treat.

LIMONI CANTERI 1952 (various locations, inc. Dąbrowskiego 1) An artisan Italian gelato stop. The Venetian-born owner thrives on experimentation, with traditional flavors matched by the inclusion of oddities such as cucumber, beer and, even, ice cream for your dog!

LODY NATURALNE (Mokotowska 12) Little more than a hole in the wall, this street-side nook has a modest offer that’s offset by complete quality – you can feel the purity. Insider favorite: mango.

MALINOVA (Al. Niepodłegości 130) Some argue this is the best ice cream in the city, it’s certainly one of the most famous. Opened in 2001 – vintage by Warsaw standards – there’s an old-school feel to this cult classic.

Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, open 7:0023:00, www.bycmoze.com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in this industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal.

Café 6/12 (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.612.pl Famous for dispensing complex fruit and vegetable super smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; the cavernous interiors are still very much the choice haunt for on trend 30 something’s.

Café Iluzja (C9) ul. Narbutta 50A, tel. 698 423 738, open daily 11:00-22:00, www.cafeiluzja.pl Bathed in white and black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black and white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a cult socialist era cinema.

Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115, open Sun-Thu 6:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 6:30-1:00 Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat.

But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to linger.

Chłodna 25 ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 604 614 287, open MonFri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:0022:00 It’s back! Under new management, this Warsaw legend has been reclaimed from the hipsters and given over to the creative classes. A place of creaking floorboards, retro armchairs and bookshelves in the process of being filled, that this neighborhood hangout draws more than just neighbors is evidence of its greatness. And the really good bit?

They’ve now got beer (Bojan, Lwówek and Goralskie) – let joy be unconfined!

Christian’s Bakerhouse (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 628 6345, open daily 9:00-21:00, www.bakerhouse.pl “Our chef places great emphasis on quality,” confided our waitress, and that’s no word of a lie. Numerous national breakfasts are represented, from nutritious kick-starters to a full British fry-up – which we’ve yet to see bettered by anywhere in Warsaw. The pet project of celebrity chef Krystian Zalejski – and not some nutty religious order as the name might suggest – the offer extends beyond breakfast to good Italian staples cooked with a twist.

9:00-16:00. With its whitewashed bricks and potted greenery Czuła Buła looks just about like every other café that’s opened this year.

Exceedingly pleasant as a summer spot, hats get tipped for their sandwiches, desserts and fruit concoctions. If you’re in the ’hood, why not check it out.

Dr. Kava (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 601 615 327, open Mon-Fri 7:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00 Looking dynamite red, Dr. Kava was one of the success stories of 2013 – some go as far as to say it’s their favorite coffee in the city.

Coffee from Chicco d’Oro and chocolates and confectionary from pedigree producer Leone signal this doctor’s dedication to his clientele.

Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21, tel. 791 096 725, open Mon-Thur 8:00-22:00; Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural.

Filtry Café (A6) ul. Niemcewicza 3, tel. 507 815 204, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.filtrycafe.pl Filtry Cafe’s got great coffee, fruit shakes, cakes, and light breakfasts combined with a funky fleapit atmosphere that attracts hipster art lovers.

Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30, tel. 504 975 370, open Mon-Thur 8:00-23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-22:00 An attractive modern cafe whose primary talking point is the terrace: a colorful affair shaded by dozens of umbrellas dangling from above.

Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, open Mon-Fri 7:30-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.coffeekarma.eu Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel. 22 826 0822, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. kawiarnia-kafka.pl Floor-to-ceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses.

Czuła Buła ul. Narbutta 16, tel. 668 134 736, open Mon-Fri 7:30-20:00; Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun

Kava i Vino (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 692 7314, www.kavaivino.pl The standout feature

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is an unconventional interior designed by renowned architects Dobek, Wojcickiego, Białobrzeska, Boczko. Over 1,200 pieces of wood hang from the ceiling, creating a beautiful visual effect. The short menu features wine, cold meat platters, cheese bruschetta, wraps, salads and sandwiches, as well as a few daily specials – the results are fair to good.

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, tel. 22 270 2179, open 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. klubokawiarnia.net Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors.

Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, screenings and art happenings have made it into something of local cultural mainstay.

La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, open 10:00-20:00, www.lavanille.pl Thick with the scent of icing sugar, La Vanille’s big boast are cupcakes that will make you swoon. Find them lined up in precise formation under a glass counter, and don’t forego the cakes in the display case to the right. It looks chic and glossy, but most get the cupcakes packed up to go for private indulgence.

Le Chocolat (D5) ul. Żurawia 26, tel. 22 114 26 42, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-16:00, www.lechocolat.pl This chic emporium is the realization of one couples desire to offer top-quality chocolates that challenge the palate of the discerning fan. Inspired by the chocolate boutiques of Paris, over twenty different brands from a dozen countries are available. Handmade pralines and truffles, displayed almost like jewels, come in a rainbow of fillings, from coconut to cherries, mint to almonds.

Magiel Café (F8) ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, open Tue-Thu 12:00-22:30; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 10:30-17:00, www.magielcafe.pl Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 828 5417, open Mon-Wed 10:00-23:00; Thu 10:00-23:00;

listings / cafés & wine bars Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun14:00-23:00, www. miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been.

Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 503 080 906, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www.ministerstwokawy.pl Ranked 16th in the WORLD, you can put your faith in the house barista. Using Arabica from Colombia, Kenya and Guatemala, rave reviews are both standard and appropriate.

The backdrop muddles pristine wall tiles with comfy chaises and uber-cool lighting, with the ambience never too commercial, nor too hipster – rather, just right.

Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www. myomy.pl Slightly rustic in design, with wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor.

The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; SatSun 9:00-19:00 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.

MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00, www.mito.art. pl Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day.

And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall.

Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9446, open 9:00-24:00, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while spring sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.

my’o’my (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), open

Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 22 870 13 25, open

Mon-Wed 12:00-22:30; Thu-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 Informal looking with its clean white finishes and stripped wood floors, it’s an ideal spot for a lazy weekend – few places in Warsaw feel so naturally continental. The food, it needs to be said, is very good indeed, with hefty steaks, multiple burgers and some fine desserts.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-18:00 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Square 5 Pl. Bankowy 3/5, tel. 504 914 773, open Mon-Fri: 7:00-22:00, Sat 8:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00 Square 5 comes as a pleasant surprise amidst the desert that is Pl. Bankowy. Combine their extensive blackboard menu with a countertop heavy with freshly-baked goods from their own oven and you newcomers may be positively overwhelmed. As for their coffee, that’s premium Ionia il Caffe, and it comes in all forms: from the traditional cappuccino to more daring coconut macchiato.

AUTHENTIC ITALIAN CUISINE PREPARED BY REAL ITALIANS

address: Freta 41/43, Warszawa e-mail: info@nonnarita.pl open hours: Tue-Sun: from 12:00 to last client

Nonna Rita recommends: Pinot Grigio “Dama d’Oro”, Marchese Adorno

www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars Sueño Café & Tapas Bar ul. Oboźna 9/100, tel. 22 826 8317, open Mon-Thu 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 The simple décor, inspired by a traveller’s way of living, provides a casual yet lively atmosphere.

Surfboards and beach photographs decorate the walls and hammocks hang from the ceilings. The owners, kite surfers and avid travellers, have combined ideas from various different countries – evident not only in the décor but also in the menu.

WakeCup Café ul. Franciszkańska 14, tel. 503 113 240, open Mon-Fri 7:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 8:00-21:00, wakecupcafe.pl A superb discovery landed in the no-man’s land that straddles New Town and Muranów. WakeCup don’t believe in taking coffee shortcuts (recommended: raspberry frappe), and have a fiendish obsession with beans from Brazil.

Also notable and noteworthy for their fruity cocktails, pastries and energetic café buzz.

Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 796 880 822 or 793 567 125. open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00 Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’.

It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon-Tue 10:00-22:00; Wed-Sat 10:00-24:00, www.alewino.pl Warsaw is increasingly devoted to megalith wine worlds. In comparison, Ale Wino is small fry, Lilliputian even. Yet there’s a real charm that wins over all. Covertly stashed inside a courtyard, that Ale Wino’s! neighbors include fashion Tsar Robert Kupisz announce this place as the frontline of cool – as if to qualify this, find furnishings by the celebrated design brains at Studio Rygalik. Stocked with wines from 16 countries, place your trust in sommelier Adrian Litkowicz for a taste of something special.

Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44. open 12:00-23:00 Effortlessly evoking a real

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sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking points aren’t limited to the interiors alone.

The wine selection was personally overseen

by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most esteemed wine importer in the country. And the choice is prodigious. Offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls. BEST WAWA 2013 “Wine Bar” Charlotte (D6) ul. Aleja Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl.

Zbawiciela), tel. 22 628 4459, open Mon-Thur 7:00-24:00; Fri 7:00-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-22:00, www.bistrocharlotte.com It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Mac technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar.

Hoża by Mondovino (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, tel. 515 037 001, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hoza.warszawa.pl Successfully establishing themselves over summer, you’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak.

But what is meat without wine? Complimenting the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. They’re the personal selection of actor / owner Tomasz Budyta, a successful wine importer for the last 23 years.

Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, open Mon-Thur 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.prawdziwewina.pl Some think of this as a neighborhood wine bar – they’re clearly privileged, because if everyone had a Jung & Lecker next door it’d be a kind world indeed. While the courtyard garden is a highlight, even in the sub-zero season there’s reason to swing by. Offering an intimate atmosphere and a strong menu, the finishing touch is provided by way of wines sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, open Mon-Fri 9:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22); Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:30-21:00 (kitchen closes at 17:00), www.mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire.

Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates with city casual cool.

Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, open 11:00-23:00, www.portucale.pl The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, tel. 22 542 8031, open Mon-Sat 12.00-23.00; Sun 12.00-20.00, www.winkolekcja.pl You can’t pick your neighbors... In WinKolekcja’s case, that means a kebab shop opposite and a bottle bank with a constant stream of street bums.

But in spite of the curious location, this new wine bar/store looks set to thrive; the wine choice is comprehensive, and the food excellent. The design has the routine look of a club class lounge area; even so, it’s a timely addition to an area not rich in options.

Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 25 00, open MonSat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera.pl Lending a lift to a sad stretch of Chłodna is Winosfera, a huge wine bar with all the requisite crates and industrial fittings – there’s even a cinema. The upside is true fine dining, and a flawless wine selection. Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 521 06 66, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00 Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve already won a staunchly loyal following.

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nightlife bars & pubs Bazar (F1) ul. Okrzei 22, tel. 508 321 264, open 12:00last guest There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints.

On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, open daily 12:00-4:00, www.beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

THREE TO WATCH: CRAFT BEERS FOR SUMMER DEEP LOVE (Ale Browar & Nogne O) A Polish / Norwegian collaboration that signals a return to form for Ale Browar. Marketed as a Belgian rye IPA, this dark copper beer comes with an earthy taste, frothy head and long finish. Less cloying than their other summer outing – Crazy Mike – this complex bevvy gets the Insider’s thumbs up.

DOCTOR BREW AMERICAN WEIZEN (Browar Bartek) The work of an upcoming Wrocław brewery, this malty beer is defined by its thin head, banana aroma, citrusy undertones and a bitter finish that contributes to a long, lingering aftertaste. Supremely refreshing, you imagine glugging it back while watching the sunset from your balcony.

WOJTEK (Beartown Brewery) Named after a Syrian brown bear that served alongside Polish troops in WWII! Following the success of an earlier run this year, Wojtek returns for summer, though good luck finding him anywhere but on Jana Pawła’s Piwomaniak. A deep, gold lager with a dry finish of citrus and juniper. Perfect BBQ drinking!

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Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), open 11:00last guest Having tapped their first beer six or seven years back, Bierhalle have morphed into a national chain. All three Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins. The beer is good, but Warsaw now has much better and in less formulaic surrounds.

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, www.bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd.

What has remained constant is the energy.

Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The most

listings / nightlife faithful replica of an English pub you’ll find.

And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager.

Judging by the standard of their beer, you might want to follow their example.

Browarmia (D3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.browarmia.pl An industrial looking microbrewery filled with mysterious pipes, valves and gauges. The summer terrace is great, making it one of the best places around for a brew with a view.

Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 22 890 77 05, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream garbage. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus an outdoor wooden terrace that’s largely superior to anything in the area.

Coctail Bar Max (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 691 710 000, open daily 11:00-15:00, www.barmax.pl Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, it’s a resounding yes. With its light wood touches and fruity montages Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with an alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in a miniature form. The only problem? By their very nature, cocktails aren’t concocted in two minutes flat – if it’s busy, waiting around is like Death by a Thousand Cuts.

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106, open 10:00-2:00, www.cudanakiju.pl Warsaw’s multi-tap revolution started here!

This sleek space comes drenched in sunlight that slants through the four glass walls, while the shaded courtyard is a summer must and frequently utilized for various one off events.

Find 15 taps dispensing regional and craft

brews as well as quirky imports from Czech, Belgium and beyond.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), tel. 505 695 512, open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.czesc.waw.pl Some say it’s more of a café – we say, check the fridge. Despite its diminutive size Cześć have one of the most adventurous alcohol offers in the city, with a steady stream of British cider (Sheppy’s, Weston’s, Old Rosie), Polish lagers (Artezan, Pinta) and other international names (Grimbergen, Crabbies). If there was an award for best neighborhood hangout, they’d breeze it.

Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, open Tue-Thu, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www. czeskabaszta.pl Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary.

Bathed in a yellowish murk, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk!

There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

Czysta Ojczysta ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, open Mon-Fri 18:004:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00 Here’s a turn up for the books: a Praga bar that doesn’t look infected. Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo.

Dubrovnik (D4) ul. Nowogrodzka 22, tel. 885 835 885, open 11:00-last guest, www.dubrovnik.waw.pl Yes, Dubrovnik is a restaurant. And yes, it’s a restaurant that doesn’t promise much – set with woodsy features and mock-rustic details, it looks cheap and tacky and one to avoid.

But guess what, it’s one of the first tankovy pubs in Poland! A Czech innovation, the storing system preserves the beers freshness, and even takes away the usual gassy, belchy taste of Tyskie.

Elephant Belgian Pub (C1) ul. Freta 19, tel. 532 742 400, open 11:00-22:00 Signposted by a jolly, dancing

elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all.

Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855, open MonFri 13:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00, www.goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

Haka (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 515 967 123, open MonWed 10:00-24:00; Thu-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00 Big things are happening in this small little room. Under the stewardship of Kevin Bradley this ex-pat hit has now added Guinness and live sports (it’s the rugger bugger favorite) to their offer to go alongside a fab menu by Kiwi chef Shane. An intimate space clad in brickwork and metal, Haka gets further applause for adding Arnie – Warsaw’s favorite cocktail king – to their staff lineup.

Kameralna (E4) ul. Foksal 11, tel. 887 878 731, open 12:00-24:00 With a militia truck outside, and interiors that feature cutlery by Społem and 70s newspapers on the walls, you’d be right to think we’ve got another venue that celebrates the past. Looking vast and comfortingly cluttered, Kameralna is both a restaurant and a nightspot – brewing their own beer, the house lagers elevate it above the competition.

Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 512 307 284, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat 16:00-2:00 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, it’s the kind of cocktail bar that Warsaw’s been waiting for.

Find innovative cocktails fixed by fun, playful staff, not to mention unexpected surprises such as a bike with antlers and prizes (a www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife yo-yo!) for anyone who can make an origami paper cock out of the menu (as in a rooster, not something naughty).

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 791 334 606, open daily 12:00-4:00 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218, open Mon-Thu 14:00-2:00; Fri 14:00-4:00; Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00, www. kufleikapsle.pl Ten tap and two pump beers offer a magnificent spread of daily changing beers, and the good news continues with the choice in the fridge: there’s 120 beers down there, so gamble on a rather jolly night. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the building, and are already thick with noise, clamor and the welcome scent of beer and spillage. BEST WAWA 2013 “Beer Bar” Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, open Mon-Fri 16:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest, www.kwadrat. waw.pl Nights get blurry in Kwadrat, one of the first bars in town to spread the gospel

of regional and new wave beer. Enjoy it alongside an amiable, late 20s crowd.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.legendsbar.pl A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background.

Leniviec (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, open Mon-Thu 7:30-24:00; Fri 7:30-2:00; Sat 9:00-2:00; Sun 9:0024:00, www.leniviec.pl Poznańska? More like Pose-nańska. Join the bright and the beautiful inside Leniviec, a hip haunt that’s shed its cafe roots and returned to earth as a cocktail bar. And a good one. Place your faith in Patryk the bar maestro.

Lolek (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), tel. 22 825 6202, open daily 11:00-03:00, www. lolekpub.pl A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a park-centered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over an open fire inside this classic rough-and-ready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged.

Na Lato ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 692 280 094, open Mon 8:00-23:00; Tue-Thu 8:00-1:00; Fri 8:00-5:00; Sat 10:00-5:00; Sun 10:0024:00. Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd that’s all glinting watches and logo-clad bags. The expanse of greenery outside has installed it as one of Warsaw’s principal seasonal drinking zones.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest condensation of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 6306, open Mon-Sun 18:00-2:00, www.panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a wellto-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, tel. 691 472 969, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00;

Restauracja / Bar / Klub

ul. Nowy Świat 58, Warszawa | Al. Jana Pawła 9-11 (Aleja Topolowa), Gdynia www.bollywoodlounge.pl / Polub nas na Facebooku

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listings / nightlife Sun 10:00-23:00, www.paradox-cafe.pl Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf.

Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl Patera fill a binary role: first as an Asian eatery, and second as a cocktail bar. And my, what cocktails. Offering several classics, and a few modern creations, the Ginger Peach Collins is already installed as our cocktail of choice for summer 2014.

Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 83 73, open

Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul.

Parkingowa), open 11:00-1:00 Dubbing themselves to be Warsaw’s first ‘hyper tap bar’, Piw Paw have an armory of 57 tap beers, about ten tables and two toilets – do you see the problem? Designed more for carry-out custom, it’s an ambitious project though one that doesn’t feel entirely thought out. And in spite of the offer, it’s nothing more exciting than the other multi-tap choices. A good start point, nonetheless.

Plac Barcelona (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 501 988 768, open Sun-Thu 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-1:00.

Those who think this area’s star has waned need look no further than Plac Barcelona, a pristine bar with a star studded clientele. The interiors feature stark white colors and an interesting multi-level seating arrangement.

Most, however, prefer to give themselves maximum exposure and do both their sipping and sitting outdoors.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976, open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. www.planb.pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Polonez (D5) ul. Poznańska 24, tel. 604 942 169, open

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listings / nightlife Sun-Wed 10:00-1:00; Thu 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-3:00. Sparse milk bar chic is set against plenty of oddities (black and white Cybulski films, a set of antlers, hordes of junk), but the cool aesthetics only tell a part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio drinks and regional tipples. The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative.

Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799,

open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Most part restaurant, bit part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally hangout – not always in that order. And as for the drinks, they’re really very good. Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of must-try cocktails. Try their best seller: the Bloody Hell. Using Chopin vodka infused with horse radish, pirri pirri and basil, this pimped out version of the Bloody Mary incorporates chili syrup and wasabi in a high octane drink BEST WAWA 2013 that kicks like a mule.

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HARDROCK.COM

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Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 796 671 950, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

Sztuka i Sztucki (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 468 00 00, open Sun-Thu 12:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 18:00-last guest, www.sztukisztuczki.pl Visitors negotiate a maze of narrow corridors, nooks and corners, with meanderings to the leviathan, boat-shaped bar taking in concrete floors, naked brickwork and vaulted ceilings. The beer list offers a jumble of exemplary brews, among them the outstanding Grimbergen, while cocktails are novel and largely ravishing. And of course, it helps that enjoyment of them is done on ultra-cool seats designed

by Pierre Favresse. Rather than attracting gurning wannabe’ Latino dudes and plastic models the music attracts a diverse range of peeps: that’s thanks to a schedule that encompasses everything from jazz tributes to club nights. BEST WAWA 2013 “Late Night” Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622, open Mon-Sun 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Warsaw’s premier sports pub: and it’s not just the extent of their sporting offer that elevates WTF, but the atmosphere. Whether it’s international

rugby, or Bristol City on a Tuesday night, the tension, camaraderie and horseplay are unmatched. On the occasions when there is no sport, swing by for live bands and a lively atmosphere fueled by a heady mix of ex-pats, international students, and locals bewildered by it all. The recent addition of boutique beverages such as Brew Dog and Thistly Cross has gone down a treat.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, tel. 22 474 40 84, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last guest, www.warszawapowisle.pl The prime months for this former ticket-booth are in summer when the deck chairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as the hipster Center of Power, a collective bout of outrage saved them from council threatened closure last year. Not just a bar, they’re now filling a dual role as Warsaw’s one billionth burger joint.

clubs 1500m2 (E3) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412, open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00, www.1500m2.com This former printing works has been central to the rise of Powiśle, and with its ragged Berlin edge its proven a fine venue for everything from weekend hipster markets to one-off dusk-tilldawn electro and DJ events.

Basen ul. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 696 058 944, open Fri-Sat 21:00-6:00, www.artbasen.pl Warsaw’s first municipal swimming pool has been handed a new lease of life as one of the premier alt. music venues in Poland: Tricky, DJ Shadow and The Fratellis have performed in the past, and this summer promises more cult names such as serial bad ass DJ Snoopadelic.

De Lite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. 792 014 166, www.deliteclub.pl This place definitely figures highly in the ‘bubbles and beauties’ stakes. Scantily clad dates bop along sipping on martinis, flirting and dancing, while exposed brick and pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror setup in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, spaceship interior.

Element (D4) ul. Jasna 1, tel. 22 667 435 363 or 22 692

listings / nightlife 42 42, open Thu-Sat 22:00-7:00, www. elementclub.pl With door control negotiated, clubbers slip downstairs into a blue-lit labyrinth heaving with slick, polished finishes and a thumping sound system. Marketed at the higher end of the clubbing world, there’s no shortage of temptresses gyrating around in a dense cloud of perfume.

Fri 21:00-last guest, www.theeve.pl Beauty and booty come first in The Eve, a blinged up offshoot of Platinium nearby. A cutthroat door policy ensures plenty of egos crash and die at the door, and it’s got a Bacchanalian reputation for champagne popping high jinks. Observe them through the one way mirror in the VIP room.

nefarious reputation as something of a dodgy den of illicit pharmaceuticals and libertine behavior. Looking grim and grotty, this after party legend gets going at about 4 a.m. when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the final touches to their zonked out stare. For the full tilt, rib rattling electro experience it’s pretty hard to beat.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, open Wed-Sat 22:00-4:00, www.enklawa.com Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost.

Foksal XVIII (E4) ul. Foksal 18, open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00 Composed using chandeliers, bricks and velvet this classy space has gone head to head with The Eve as Warsaw’s flashest venue: breathe deep and smell the money.

Cardboard animal shapes hang from the bar, adding some surreal humor to the seriously competitive air.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 694 413 439, open Thu-Sat 21:00-6:00. www.platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now.

The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 604 145 462 or 22 827 5242, open Thu-

Luzztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, open Wed-Thu 22:00-10:00; Fri-Sat 24:00-14:00, www. luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a

Shot Bars Afera na Szpitalnej (D4) ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 509 777 797, open 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 24hrs Looking light and bright this place appeals to more than just hardened alcoholics – a point proved by spot-on food home cooked by the owner’s mum. It’s young, fun and lively in swagger.

Bar Warszawa (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, tel. 504 320 497, open 24hrs Creak upstairs to find a womb-like space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations like vintage radios, pics of old stars and black and white images of bare-breasted ladies. Run as a side hobby by a TV producer, the opening hours meet with full approval.

Meta (D3/E4) ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21, open 11:00-6:00 Affecting the style of a PRL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to the chains of bog paper.

Pijalnia (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, open 24hrs Bow-tied staff serve vodka and pickles from behind

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a tiled bar to a crowd that gets younger as the day gets older. In quieter times, check the newspapered walls to read up on 1980s sports reports.

Przekąski u Romana (F4) ul. Ludna 2, tel. 660 525 777, open 24hrs. When Warsaw’s original shot bar, Przekąski Zakąski, closed last year the gasps were audible. But fear not, the cult hero you’d have found serving the shots, the bow-tied, debonair Roman Modzelewski, has gone and opened his own venue. Expect the same formula (cheap beer and vodka, traditional Polish boozy bites) inside a background dominated by a giant picture of the Palace of Culture.

Przekazki Zakaski (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 44, open 24hrs.

Warsaw’s first shot bar has upped sticks and moved from the Europesjski Hotel to an all-weather marquee behind the rotunda. Lacking the atmosphere of the original, it feels like a pointless attempt to trade on old glories. And not even city hall want you here: not until owner Adam Gessler pays off the millions he owes them.

Sen Pszczoły ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, tel. 530 360 060, open Tue-Wed 18:00-2:00; Thu-Sat 18:005:00; Sun 18:00-2:00, www.senpszczoly.pl A dive club of legend. Amid the heavy industrial background expect bunk bed frames, a dentist’s chair and no shortage of neon painted weirdness. Concerts are a mixed bag, and range from didgeridoo performances to inter-war songs to full-on techno.

for gentlemen Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, tel. 794 007 000, open 21:00-4:00, www.playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”).

Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

jazz Bistro na Pięknej (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.jazzone.pl A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace. Popular with a

listings / nightlife smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts.

Nu Nu Nu (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 621 8989, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00.

For something a little educated take a date to Nu, a high-ceilinged effort with slick urban dashes and regular piano. The Żurawia location marks it out as a popular spot for a high-end crowd.

Tygmont Jazz Club (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl, open daily 16:00-4:00 For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics.

live music 1500m2 (E3) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412, open Fri-Sat 22:00-6:00, www.1500m2.com Set in a former printing factory, 1500m2 has been central to the rise of Powiśle. The industrial space has a real Berlin edge to it, and events range from weekend flea markets to teeth shattering, dusk-till-dawn electro events.

Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754, open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good.

Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student

art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. 513 191 641, open 10:00-4:00, www.pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

Basen (E5) ul. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 696 058 944, open Fri-Sat 21:00-6:00, www.artbasen.pl Get this, you’ll be doing your dance steps in what was formerly Warsaw’s first public swimming pool. Featuring a line-up of live bands and some of the top electronic acts around, this is definitely one to add to the watch list.

park & beach bars Cud nad Wisłą (E2) ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie, open 10:00last guest, cudnadwisla.pl What summer drinking should be about. Deckchairs and

cushions abound in this riverside spot, and it excels at night when twinkly lights reflect off the inky black waters. The live music does its bit to ensure it’s never a quiet night.

La Playa ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, www.laplaya.pl Mix-up surf inspired cocktails, lager in plastic glasses, a volleyball net, lounge chairs and some spontaneous samba, and you get the most unexpected beach party you’d ever imagine. If you’re feeling particularly daring, go skinny dipping in the murky, muddy Wisła.

Plac Zabaw (F6) ul. Myśliwiecka 9 (Park Agrykola), open 12:00-4:00 Owned by the same dudes behind Plan B, the name translates as ‘Playground’. With a low-key, open air set-up in the wooded bit under Trasa Łazienkowska, from an aesthetic point there’s little to write home about. Even so, with summer in song you’ll find it rocking into the wee, early hours.

Plażowa (G3) Underneath Most Poniatowskiego, open 12:00-last guest They either complement Temat Rzeka next door, or steal their thunder – your choice. Set in and around a swanky new complex standing under the National Stadium, points are scored for a music stage, an open air top floor VIP platform, and toilets you aren’t terrified of entering. No word of a lie, in terms of nightlife, it’s the biggest thing to happen to Warsaw this summer.

Dear Guests!

We invite you to experience an exotic and mysterious adventure full of seasonal aromas and the unforgettable flavours of traditional Indian cuisine.

Curry, coriander, turmeric, cinnamon, ginger, cumin: these aromas mean it’s impossible to pass Buddha without stepping in.

Enjoy the atmosphere of Indian life, food, music and happiness.

Buddha Indian Restaurant ul. Nowy Swiat 23 +48 22 826 35 01 / 725 111 222

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shopping accessories Agent Provocateur ul. Mokotowska 59, tel. 22 273 6162, www.agentprovocateur.com The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. And if that’s not enough, they’ve got sexy stockings, silk robes, perfume, satin gloves, a blindfold and nipple tassels…

Bagatt ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 622 0015, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.bagatt. pl A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Pl. Trzech Krzyży.

Prepping for a stylish summer break can be a challenge in any city, but Warsaw often seems especially tough on that front. So we’ve compiled a checklist of shops where you can be sure to score the best in holiday basics - a slick pair of shades, snazzy sandals and a sexy swimsuit. Bon voyage!

MY PARIS (Mysia 3, Level 2) The shoes it carries, mostly from Mellow Yellow, are delightful: neutral leather thongs with snazzy bow accents, chic pastel flats in a sumptuous suede, upgraded with a dash of silver leather, and artsy espadrille-inspired sandals available in two versions - flats or platforms. The shop is best known perhaps for its Baglerrinas: foldable ballet flats that fit into the most minuscule of purses.

AGENT PROVOCATEUR (ul. Mokotowska 59) For the statement suit of the century, it gets no sexier than Agent Provocateur. That daring mix of elegance and playfulness in lingerie translates to their swimsuit line too. The overall vibe is Rihanna-cum-Real Housewives, with everything from cut-out bondage style one-pieces to tiny bikinis in bright emerald green and turquoise satin.

PINGLE (Hoża 40) A collection of hand-selected eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris. (AMG)

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Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections.

Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances.

Batycki (various locations) Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite.

Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, tel. 22 611 3814, open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat Sun 10:00-20:00. www.chiara-online.pl You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

SUMMER STOCK-UP

listings / shopping Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry.

Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), tel.

794 689 090, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00 Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 625 0881, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-15:00, www.mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3, tel. 884 867 518, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-18:00. The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula.

Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 403 19 19, open Mon-Fri 11:19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00, www.lilou.pl Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionistas.

Moko61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 22 622 8002, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, moko61.com Reputed to be the best eyewear store in the city, brands include Cheap Monday, Lindberg, Massada, Cutler and Gross, Mykita and many more. The cup of coffee supplied while you browse is on the house, and typical of their attitude to service.

Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, mo61.pl Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space.

Oficyne 904 ul. Wilcza 3, officine904.pl Beautiful bags handmade in Florence from Italian calf

leather. From clutch bags to market bags, this discreet walk-in offers uncompromising quality and craftsmanship characterized by its ‘purity of form’ and ‘utilitarian simplicity’.

Old Silos ul. Hoża 35, oldsilos.pl Relive the glory years of the 80s British ‘football casual’ in Old Silos, a sneaker store specializing in retro classics and Adidas originals.

Pracownia Szczotek ul. Poznańska 26, khaja.pl Opened in 1952, this bespoke brush store has been passed down from grandfather to father and then onto son. On offer: everything from paintbrushes to moustache combs to hairbrushes.

And the owner is a character as well: “I don’t have time for Facebook,” he says, “it would get in the way of my tango lessons!”

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 665 625 618, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel.

22 541 4141, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range.

For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

antiques Kolo ul. Obozowa 99, www.gieldastaroci.waw.pl What looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armor. Half-junkyard, half treasure trove, it’s an experience in itself.

Kwadryga ul. Wilcza 29, www.kwadryga.com Entered through a courtyard, it’s a magnet for bibliophiles, and groans with antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is

timeless. The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an amazing insight into the past.

Lamus ul. Nowomiejska 7, tel. 22 831 63 21, www. lamus.pl Another antique bookstore that comes filled with leather-bound tomes, regal looking scrolls and elaborate maps. Also known for their pre-war prints and paintings of Warsaw before it was knocked down.

Lapidarium ul. Nowomiejska 15/17, tel. 509 601 894, www.lapidarium.pl Cavalry swords, pre-war Judaica, Orthodox icons, books, scrolls, helmets, cameras, chess sets, jewelry…

Lapidarium is possibly one of the most famed antique stores in the capital, and presents the opportunity for endless rummaging.

Prima Porta Antiquities ul. Moktowska 71, www.primaportaantiquities.com At the top end of the scale the German-run Prima Porta specialize in pieces from ancient Rome, Greece, Egypt, Mesopotamia and Asia. Formidable pieces from tiny little Egyptian clay hippos from the 12th Dynasty, all the way to one and half meter statues of Buddha from the Third Myanmar Kingdom.

Victoria Galeria ul. Żytnia 15 lok. 4, open daily 10:00-18:00, www.antykivictoria.pl Sourced from the auction houses of London, with deliveries arriving each month, the offer is overwhelmingly English, though not exclusively so – there are oriental pieces, French, and more.

Refreshing in its bright, clean style, Victoria is a magnificent environment to shop for that statement piece every living room requires.

books American Bookstore Various locations, www.americanbookstore. pl Now a nationwide chain with seven outlets alone in Warsaw. The offer is overwhelmingly commercial with a strong emphasis placed on international bestsellers. There is, however, a very decent section dedicated to Polish history and tourism.

Bookoff Ogrodowa 7, tel. 22 253 6286, www.bookoff. pl A cult bookstore filled with trendy fashion and design bibles, photography albums, on-trend cookbooks and grown-up comics. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / shopping You could potentially end up spending really rather heavily.

Centrum Komiksu al. Niepodległości 148 Enter the realm of scifi, superheroes and Manga inside Centrum Komiksu, an unabashed geek-fest that draws not-at-all-creepy enthusiasts sifting through a classic collection of comics and collectibles.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl Look no further for books on modern Polish / Warsaw history. Of particular note are the picture heavy coffee table tomes that focus on Poland’s immediate pre-war, occupation and socialist years. Boffins are happy to spend hours browsing.

Fundacja Bęc Zmiana ul. Mokotowska 65/7, www.beczmiana.pl A tiny curiosity shop retailing hipster t-shirts, trendy trinkets and a fair amount of arty books with a strong slant towards contemporary Warsaw.

Super Salon ul. Chmielna 10, tel. 22 468 1619, open Mon-Sat 11:00-19:00, www.supersalon. org The sort of titles you find in a cool New York magazine store: Apartmento, Elephant, The Gourmand, Kinfolk, Cereal, Aperture, and Gather. And check out the amazing art books published by the likes of Steidl, Mack, Gestalten and Powerhouse.

fashion American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 605645289, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style.

22 611 3814, pl. Uni Lubelskiej, tel. 22 647 0394, open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat Sun 10:00-20:00, www.chiara-online.pl A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander.

Designer Secret ul. Mokotowska 39 (courtyard), tel. 506 051 048 or 511 649 493, open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-15:00, www.designersecret.pl High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with ladies and mens apparel from the previous years’ collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price.

Frank A ul. Natolińska 3, tel. 22 424 79 79, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.franka.pl The interior is painfully chic and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Sweeney, perfectly fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch.

Joanna Klimas ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, ul. Puławska 2 (CH Plac Unii), open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.joannaklimas.com One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion.

Likus Concept Store ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), tel. 22 310 73 13, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 22 622 02 76, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Lolly Pop Boutique Al. Jerozolimskie 169 lok 45A (C.H. Blue City, level 1), lollypop.pl Latest shoes and bags from from Chloe, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Melissa, UnitedNude, and many more.

For online shopping, check: sklep.lollypop.pl

Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00, tel.

Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 519 000 049, open Mon-Sat 11:00-19:00, www.zien.pl

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A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultimate designer showroom.

Marks & Spencer Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 206 4370, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00. ul.

Marszałkowska 104/122 (DT Wars & Sawa), tel. 22 206 4353, open 9:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00, Al. Jerozolimskie 179, tel. 22 206 4386, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00, Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0653, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www.marks-and-spencer.com. pl The popular British brand’s new Warsaw store sells menswear, womenswear and children’s clothing, as well as various beauty products, groceries, wines and spirits. This is its newest and largest store in Poland to date.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, www. moliera2.com Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Isabel Marant, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch and Balmain.

Mostrami.pl www.mostrami.pl Known to insiders as the ‘Polish Net-a-porter’, the online Mostrami portal showcases a whole breed of Polish fashion talent: Blessus, Justyna Chrabelska, Łukasz Jemioł, and Zuo Corp, as well as the rock stars of the local scene such as Kupisz, Zień and Plich. Around 100 designers to choose from, with prices straddling the wide spectrum of purchasing power.

Muji ul Mysia 3, tel. 502 264 091, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www.muji. com.pl Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store.

Pinko Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4616, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00, Nowy Świat 1, tel. 22 629 1773, open

listings / shopping Mon-Sat 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-19:00; Sun 11:00-16:00, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 22 541 3862, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00, www.pinko.it Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Tom Ford, Valentino, Tory Burch, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo.

Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories.

Premiere Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48/204, tel. 506 170 801, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00, www.robertkupisz.com One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner.

funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo.

She’s a Riot ul. Mokotowska 24, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-16:00, shop. shesariot.com A fashion-forward label for grownups – women who hover between a rock-inspired, whimsical twist on a retro Mad Men silhouette.

Two Can Play ul. Wilcza 32, two-can-play.com For those who value individuality in fashion owner Michał has created a progressive concept store that looks to promote brands that you’d struggle to find here: nat & nin, Denham, Eleven Paris, White Tent and much more besides.

Vintage Store ul. Dobra 56/66 (Level 1, University of Warsaw library), tel. 501 301 742, www. vintagestore.pl Since its inception the store has grown in many ways – now, used brands like Burberry, Barbour, dresses from the ’70s, Hermes scarves, snakeskin handbags, or

original Adidas sweaters from the ’60s and ’70s (the owner is an avid collector) are not an uncommon find in the shop.

home decor 3F Studio ul. Nowolipki 28b, tel. 22 651 5644, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.3fstudio.com.pl Offers furnishings and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide. The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients.

A&A Bath ul. Chmielna 12, tel. 883 310 201, open Mon-Fri 12:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00 Inspired by their travels, and appalled at the lack of bath stores in Warsaw, two best friends decided to put their design and business skills to the test and launch A&A Bath. Featuring a New England summer cabin aesthetic, many of the products are designed by the owners, even so you’ll find imports from Denmark and Sweden as well.

Apteka Sztuki Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5, tel. 22 622 0421, open

Insider Pick

Redford and Grant Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00, www.redfordandgrant.pl This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada.

Reykjavik District ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, www.reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Sabotage ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 887 1056, open Mon-Sat 10:00-19:30 Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy

MAKUTRA To know and not to cook, is not to know. This recently opened shop on Oleandrów has everything a master chef seeks in kitchen supply stores about town: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered.

ul. Oleandrów 5, www.makutra.com www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / shopping Tue-Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-17:00 Apteka Sztuki is an art gallery that features collections by up-and-coming contemporary artists, preferring promising unknowns to big names. The exhibits, which rotate on a monthly basis, include a variety of media created by artists from all over Europe (although the focus is on Poland).

Bo Concept ul. Młocińska 5/7, tel. 22 636 7770, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Lovely, clean lines make this one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for the home.

Coqlila ul. Lentza 20 (Wilanów), tel. 22 651 6884, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-16:00, www.coqlila.pl Home products with a marked provincial French style. Among the offer are fabrics, fragrances, furniture and kitchenware.

Galeria 2 Deco ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 22 621 2420, www.2deco. pl A small yet concise collection of brilliant home furnishings that combine the classic with contemporary at fair prices. Special orders and consulting also available.

Mokotowska 71 ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 22 629 0511, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00, www.mokotowska71.pl Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style.

MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, tel. 22 360 4389, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.moomo.pl Fun furniture styles and innovative products. There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian nd European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm.

Numero Uno ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, www. numerouno.pl Exclusive furniture and fittings with brands including Poggenpohl, Presotto Italia, Calia Italia, EGO zeroventiquattro, Masiero, Bang & Olufsen and Porsche.

Red Onion ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339, open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-18:00, www.

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redonion.pl Their new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget.

Red Poppy ul. Lekarska 9, tel. 516 894 4306, www. redpoppy.pl. (open by appointment only) Being the first hand-printing design studio in Poland, they focus primarily on making one-of-a-kind wallpapers as well curtains, lampshades, and cushions. And a good product it is: a series of Justyna Medoń’s patterns won the 2012 Must Have Prize at the Łódź Design Festival.

Secret Life (of Things) ul. Dąbrowskiego 15A, tel. 600 486 582 or 509 852 617, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.secretlife.pl An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. And it’s the multi-colored tins that greet you at the door, all of them crying out ‘drink me’. Check the prestigious porcelain

by Kristoff, stock up on Madara cosmetics, or snap up a pair of handmade shoes.

SH Studio ul. Wilcza 44, s-h-studio.pl Art, interior design and furniture are married together inside a tiny store stacked with beautiful antique and retro pieces that have been refurbished and redesigned to lend them a contemporary edge. An amazing place with surprisingly modest prices.

Take a Nap ul. Mysia 3 This two floor shop is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist. Downstairs there’s a broader selection of bed frames, couches and mattresses.

Velt ul. Próżna 12, www.velt.pl Beautiful familyrun glassware store whose pieces include the Leda lamp, awarded an honorable mention in the prestigious 2012 Red Dot Awards.

shopping malls Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl

Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, tel. 22 389 8600, open Mon-Thur 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.kencenter.pl Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www. mysia3.pl Hip and high-end department store with units such as NYCity (DKNY, Donna Karan), Berries & Co. (Ice Watch, Triwa, Ike Milano), UEG, My Paris and Take a Nap selling great pieces from both established and upcoming designers.

Targówek (Praga) ul. Głębocka 15, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.atrium-targowek.pl Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, etc…

Wola Park (Wola) ul. Górczewska 124, tel. 22 533-4000, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.wolapark.com Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www. zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.

Sale%

Free concierge service: shopping assistance, taxi booking, flowers delivery, table booking in restaurant and cafes. Call and order: +48 22 531 45 00.

family activities Barwy Muzyki ul. Niecała 14, tel. 22 188 18 27, www. barwymuzyki.pl This informal music school, with highly qualified teachers experienced in the Colour Strings program, acknowledges not every child will be a professional musician but that playing, listening and singing to music is an asset to their development.

Group or individual lessons on piano, violin, guitar, cello and flute for 6-12yrs.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, www.kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

ROPE PARK: there are four levels – the higher the level the higher into the tree tops you go. Being my husband’s first time he plumped for level 3, the adrenaline rush rope trail. My daughter and I watched and giggled as wannabe Tarzan precariously wobbled like a drunken trapeze act from tree to tree. Only the very thorough harness safety checks, prior to his ascent, gave me reassurance he would make it back alive!

RELAXATION: the first thing I did was grab the price list and make a run for the La Perla Spa. Here you really do have to book in advance, but I did not leave totally disappointed. Whilst my mob took a swim in the warmish pool (Jacuzzi / sauna included) I had a summer manicure that pampered my hardworking keyboard battered tipsys!

THE HOTEL: to really maximize the experience and enjoy the variety of recreational facilities an overnight stay is advisable (excellent family room deals), but for the day tripper the facilities at the hotel are very accessible and bookable online, individually or as packages (sport day package, ropes, mini golf and swimming at zł. 49 for children and zł. 99 for adults). (GBB) Holiday Inn Warszawa Józefów ul. Telimeny 1 (Józefów), tel. 778 3000, holiday.aquila.pl

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HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 74 00, open Mon-Tue 12:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-4:00; Sun 10:00-24:00, www.hulakula.com.pl Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools.

Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu.

Little Chef ul. Bałuckiego 30/1, tel. 501 093 691, www.littlechef.pl (visit for more information) Cooking classes for children age 3-16.

Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cookand-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English and Polish, Mon-Sat.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GIL BOELMAN-BURROWS

DAYTRIP: JÓZEFÓW

Fundacja Atelier ul. Foksal 11, 22 826 8813 or 22 826 9589, open Mon-Fri 10:00- 20:00, Sat 9:30-20:30, www.atelier.org.pl Situated in an atmospheric 19th century building this foundation organizes affordable/ flexible workshops to develop and inspire art education and creative skills (painting/ drawing/sculpture/art history) for children, young people and adults.

listings / family Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www. thelittlegym.pl Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

Mon-Sun 9:00-21:00, www.golfparkspoland. pl Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. There is a weekly junior hour (5-15yrs), ladies hour and fun mini-golf course.

to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

Manufaktura Cukierów ul. Tamka 49 (enter from Ordynacka), open Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-17:30; Sun 13:00-17:30, tel. 692 888 751, www. manufaktura-cukierkow.pl Sweet making courses in a confectionary factory! Lessons are conducted in Polish, though enthusiasm is more important than a mastery of the language.

Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 9600, open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.zacheta. art.pl Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org

education preschools

Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless.

For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web.

Teatr Guliwer ul. Różana 16, tel. 22 845 16 76/77, box office open 9:00-17:30, www.teatrguliwer. waw.pl Well worth a visit, even for non-Polish speakers. An exciting colorful premises with creative costumes make this the choice place to introduce the kids to theater.

Teatr Lalka Pl. Defilad 1 (Palace of Culture), tel. 22 620 4960 or 22 620 49 50, open Mon-Sat 11:0017.30; Sun 11:00-15:00, www.teatrlalka. waw.pl This puppet theatre stages a variation of productions suitable for children aged 3 +. Scenery, props and costume design are impressive but Polish dialogue is challenging! Losing the plot to Hansel and Gretel can happen - prepare to improvise! Tip: organize a backstage birthday party.

Warsaw Zoo ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. 22 619 4041, open Mon-Sun 9:00-18:00, www.zoo.waw.pl The hippopotami now have an indoor and outdoor pool, the gorillas a new pavilion, and the arrival of a shark means it now has an ‘aquarium’.

Wilanów Golf Driving Range/ Ekberg Golf Academy ul. Vogla 19, tel. 22 424 7083, open

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listings / family ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/ or to visit our school, contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

from Ogródek Jordanowski. All children are welcome, though available space is limited.

For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel.

22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 30 months to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Unit ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English.

The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000, they’re now found on new premises 100m from Mokotów’s Dreszera Park and 300m away

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.ecolemontessori.pl The preschool is located in the Saska Kępa district and provides a Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 18 months to 6 years old.

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:0016.00, www.theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@ theenglishplayhouse.com.

Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, open 7.30-17:00, www.hmh.com.pl The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/

été, verano, sommer, estate, lato, summer Join us! warsaw montessori school

Casa dei Bambini, Warsaw Montessori School invites all children for a special summer program from July 7th to August 8th.

All lessons conducted in English|Field Trips|Special Visitors| Art|Cooking|Gardening|Animals, nature and more...

Accepting applications for both our summer and fall programs from 2,5-5 and 6-12 Location: Casa dei Bambini (behind Sielecka 52), Warsaw For the reservation please contact: tel. 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl

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listings / family Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

Primrose Bilingual Preschool ul. Bernardyńska 16A lok U7, tel. 22 415 8500, primrose.edu.pl Following the ‘immersion’ method, each class has two teachers – one Polish-speaking, the other English. Through this children have all-day contact with different languages, absorbing them in everyday situations. In accordance with the hands-on methodology, children also take part in daily workshops ranging from kitchen science to art and craft classes.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 600 247 655, www. canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of IB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), open Mon-Fri 7:30-18:30, tel. 517 872 682, www.3languages.pl The only trilingual preschool and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion.

All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www. aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Primary School ul. Bełska 7, tel.

692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, www. canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.saintexupery.pl Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children aged from 3 to eleven years old in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers.

International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649 1440, 649 1442, Open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:00, www.ias. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / family edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl The International American School of Warsaw provides pre-Kindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization.

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www. warsawmontessori.edu.pl Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

cafes Kid’s Academy Primary & Pre-School ul. Arbuzowa 33D (Wilanów), tel. 510 077 979 or 603 798 297, open 7:30-18.00, ul. Łąkowa 38 (Konstancin), tel. 506 021 038 or 501 205 080, Open 7:30-17:30, www. kidsacademy.com.pl A Private English - Polish School which provides an excellent early educational program for children from ages 2.5 - 5 years old and at the Primary School, from Grade 0. Combining elements of both the Polish and British curriculum, the focus is on creating a positive and vibrant learning environment. They’re also proud of their large playground and variety of healthy foods.

Vancouver School ul. Globusowa 38, tel.

887 808 266, vancouverschools.pl The teaching system here combines the best practices and aspects of the Polish and Canadian education systems, with daily classes in English conducted in accordance with the proven method of ‘immersion’ using modern Canadian and British materials.

Kolonia ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 661 064 944 or 605 084 804, open 9:00-20:00, www.kolonia-ochota.pl Not just an excellent cafe, Kolonia is aslo equipped with a garden/ playground. Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials and a staff that always welcomes you with a smile.

Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561, open 10:00-20:00. www.kredkafe.pl The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows.

The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space.

Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30,

www.nabocafe.pl Nabo is run by a Danish couple and its light and minimalist interior – designed by those who created R20 – lends itself to every occasion. But aside from its tasty and seasonal dishes, it’s the children’s corner that is causing the biggest commotion.

shops Bimbus ul. Wilcza 69, tel. 22 628 5140, open 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-14:00. www.bimbus.com. pl Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, and Theophile & Patachou.

Endo www.endo.pl Endo is the original home of quality children’s wear that embraced great design by Polish artists. Much of the materials used are organic, hardwearing and wash well. .

Lullaby Multiple locations, www.lullaby.pl Jam packed with funky design and quirky gifts for your little ones. However, the exquisite clothing and designer labels do come with a hefty price tag.

Mimbla ul.Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 629 3065, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00.

Exclusively for kids on Warsaw’s most exclusive shopping street it’s an Aladdin’s cave of quality toys and Polish/English books. Get your gift wrapped here and both mum and child will be happy even before opening it.

Pieluszkarnia ul. Topiel 12, ul. Mandalińskiego 25, tel.

22 713 8275, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. www.pieluszkarnia.pl This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and Martello blankets personalized for births etc.

Smyk Multiple stores, tel. 22 462 7250, www.smyk. pl Smyk is Poland’s answer to Mothercare; from bottle sterilizing kits to pencil cases, early learning toys to Disney classics and a wide range of seasonal clothing, this store will take you from childbirth to high school!

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health & beauty cycling stores & service AveBmx ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 828 0213, avebmx. pl Cult BMX store in the hip Powiśle district.

Staffed by true enthusiasts who live the BMX lifestyle, it’s the No. 1 spot in Warsaw for those who see BMX as the only way to cycle.

Galeria Sztuki Rowerowej ul. Widok 10, tel. 507 202 572. Glorious bikes, many of them vintage, and many of them in colors that’ll make you the talk of the town. Not just affordable prices, they also promise to fix your bike for free should it suddenly conk out.

ESSENTIAL SUMMER PRIMPING Prepping for a much-deserved summer holiday isn’t just about packing the right suit and sunnies. Whether we’re heading to Hel or the French Riviera, we really want to feel our best among all the bikini babes on the beach.

Women and men alike tend to hit the salon pre-break for a bit of primp and polish from head to toe.

HAIRCOLOGY (ul. Rozbrat 44A) A hair salon that feels like a mega-indulgent eco-spa, from the décor to the luxurious organic products they use.

Even before you get to the cutting, there’s a full treatment of washes and rinses infused with mint, rosemary, lemon and nettle: all meant to purify and add shine. A top choice for a pre-holiday cut.

PARDON MY FRENCH (Belwederska 32) The equipment here is state-ofthe art, particularly the massage chairs for indulgent pedicures. While gel tips and all that hybrid stuff is all the rage now, it might be more prudent to get a classic mani/pedi to avoid beauty emergencies when you’re drifting in the middle of the Mediterranean on P. Diddy’s yacht.

LA PERLA (multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel) Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. For summer the right spa/salon/clinic is key. La Perla’s all three in one! (AMG)

Kettler ul. Okopowa 56, tel. 22 826 3541, pl.kettler. net The world-renowned Kettler brand brings the full extent of their offer to Warsaw. On the bike front that means mountain bikes, city and their innovative e-bikes. This being Kettler, find also numerous other products to contribute to your active lifestyle.

Plumbike ul. Puławska 67/69, tel. 690 005 415, plumbike.eu More of a bike boutique than a standard old bike store. Assembled by hand by the Plumbike team, the models here are beautiful, and range from choppers to cruisers in eye-catching colors.

Wygodny Rower Various locations, tel. 888 498 498, wygodnyrower.pl Bike store and service center chain dealing with city bikes, fixed gear, single speed and road bikes. A huge range of bikes, running from Abus to Zefal via manufacturers such as Pashley, Fuji and Adriatica.

gyms Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning.

Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premier ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel.

22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland.

Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premier’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Englishspeaking, as well.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59 (floor 3, opposite McDonald’s), tel. 22 379 7777, open Mon-Fri 6:00-22:30; Sat 8:00-22:30; Sun 8:00-21:00, www. jatomifitness.pl The largest and fastest growing fitness chain in Poland currently has 35 locations and 117,000 members across the country. All clubs have new generation of machines, innovative forms of group activities (Booiaka, Hot Yoga, Pure Pump, Pure Fire and Wah Gwan Dancehall) and professional

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personal trainers schooled in nutrition and the healthy lifestyle.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Zodiak ul. Widok 26, tel. 22 100 3400, open 24hrs, www.jatomifitness.pl Poland’s fastest growing fitness chain has been recognized for excellence after being named SCF Leisure & Fitness Retailer of the Year 2014. Other Pure Jatomi clubs in Warsaw include: Blue City, Galeria Renova, Sadyba Best Mall, Promenada and Targówek.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

dental clinics ArtDental ul. Łucka 18, tel. 22 654 3006, artdental.pl Well-known among expats, ArtDental’s service is widely praised for its honest service and moderate prices. English speaking and moderately priced.

Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

DeClinic ul. Bernardyńska 16A, tel. 22 112 0400, declinic.pl Regarded as one of the most modern clinics in Europe, amongst other innovations DeClinic have swapped the traditional drilling process in favor of abrasive sandblaster – perfect for kids or those afraid of the dentist.

DentaLux ul. Racławicka 31 & Puławska 257, tel. 22 787 878, dentalux.pl Englishspeaking service available, as well as 24hr emergency consultations.

EuroDental Various locations, tel. 22 380 7000, eurodental.pl English-speaking dentists on request. Lacking the ‘boutique’ charm of some of Warsaw’s more modish clinics, the service here is both efficient and moderately priced.

Elektoralna Dental Clinic ul. Elektoralna 28, tel. 22 620 2140, elektoralna.pl State-of-the-art dental clinic featuring Poland’s first dental tomograph.

Languages spoken include English, German, Spanish and Arabic.

Malo Clinic Domaniewska 37 (3rd floor), tel. 22 393 6333, www.maloclinics.com/polska This world class dental clinic incorporates five dental offices, an operating room, two recovery rooms and a state-of-the-art diagnostic center.

medical clinics Damian Medical Center Various locations, see website for details: damian.pl Established in 1994, Damian offer a wide range of medical services in their hospital and five outpatient clinics. English spoken widely.

Ren Clinic Al. Gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok.

12A, tel. 22 414 2222 or 501 126 108, www.renclinic.pl Surgical care, cosmetics, medical dermatology, aesthetic medicine and more.

Lux Med Medical Clinics Various locations, see website for details: www.luxmed.pl Medicover Various locations, see website for details: medicover.pl Hugely popular amongst ex-pats, Medicover offer a wide range of membership schemes for both private and corporate clients. The jewel in their crown is a state-of-the-art hospital in the Wilanów district.

Melitus ul. Słowackiego 12, tel. 22 833 7438, mob.

603 060 621, www.melitus.pl Specializing in dermatology, surgery, phlebology, endocrinology, gynecology and internal medicine.

The clinic is equipped with the latest and

listings / health & beauty most innovative medical equipment and employs several renowned clinicians.

Therapy Warsaw ul. Filtrowa 69/13, tel. 601 532 319, www.therapywarsaw.com English-speaking therapy for couples and individuals dealing with relationships, eating disorders, trauma, stress and much more besides.

Warszawskie Centrum Zdrowia ul. Nowogrodzka 76, tel. 22 857 3014, www.wcz.waw.pl Specializes in the prevention, early detection and treatment of cardiovascular disease.

spas & salons Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.”

BeautyLab Polska ul. Belwederska 20/22, beautylabpolska.pl Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of cosmetics available online range from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care.

Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404.

A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries.

A beautiful historic setting compliments the experience. Also on Elektoralna 24.

guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Izar Repechage ul. Moliera 1, tel. 604 209 900 or 22 827 7195, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 8:0014:00, www.repechage.net.pl A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatments for the whole body.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel, level -1), tel.

22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing expert staff and top-quality products.

Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-last guest, www.haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00, www. jejijego.pl Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

Sungate Beauty & Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 517 012 880, www. spasungate.pl A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments, manicure and pedicure, as well as a VIP room for couples.

Le Spa ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 9:00-16:00.

This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, tel. 22 241 3000 or 505 828 688, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.pedicure-place.pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors

sport BGZ Arena / Velodrome ul. Andrzeja 1 (Pruszków), tel. 22 738 8394, bgzarena.com Bring a cycling helmet and you too can take a spin around the velodrome in Pruszków. Bike hire possible, with spins

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160 or 784 677 618, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-15:00, www.bodyclinic.pl Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage.

DAILY GUIDED TOURS IN ENGLISH WWW.SEGWAYCITYTOURS.PL Booking +48 600 310 320 www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty priced at approximately at zł. 40 per hour. For further details enquire directly.

Centrum Golf – Sklep & Symulatory Golfowe ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 22 428 88 84, 2golf.pl A great way to introduce yourself to the game, Centrum Golf offers HDGolf simulators that will take you to the world’s most famous gold courses. The center is home to the only open golf league in the country.

First Warsaw Golf & Country Club ul. Golfowa (Jabłonna), tel. 22 782 4555, firstwarsawgolf.com Found 25 kiometers from Warsaw, this golf club features a par 71, 18-hole championships golf course, all year driving range, club house and a stunning backdrop to which to enjoy it all.

Frogs & Co. warsawfrogs.com While it originated as an expat team, Warsaw’s only social rugby club welcomes all: supporters, players, young, old, men and women. The rugby is taken seriously, and so too is the social side.

Golf Park Jozefów ul. Telimeny (Józefów), tel. 22 778 3090, holiday.aquila.pl A six-hold course plus a floodlit driving range and mini-golf.

Golf Parks Poland ul. Vogla 19, www.golfparkspoland.pl. Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish.

Hash House Harriers Billing themselves as ‘the drinking club with a running problem’, the Warsaw chapter of the Hash House Harriers meets every couple of weeks and welcomes runners and walkers of every level. Search for them on Facebook for further details.

Sinnet Club ul. Gołkowska 2, tel. 22 550 3400, www. sinnet.pl An exclusive members sport club featuring full-size indoor tennis courts, two external courts, three squash courts, a 25 meter swimming pool plus spa and gym facilities.

Squash City Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (Blue City), tel. 22 499 6466, squashcity.pl Considered one of the

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top squash clubs in the country, Squash City covers an area of 1,000 sq/m, with six air-conditioned courts, shop, bar, etc.

with artificial river, slides and tubes, a Russian ‘banya’ zone, not to mention other attractions like bowling and squash courts.

Warsaw Cricket Club ul. Romatyczna 3 (Panorama Country Club), warsawcricketclub.pl The oldest cricket club in the country is mainly comprised of Brits, Poles and South Asians. New members and supporters are welcomed – for details check their website.

yoga & pilates

Warsaw International Triathlon Club warsawtriclub.com Serving the needs of the athletic community, the WITC is open to all interested in the disciplines of swimming, cycling and running.

W Pionie ul. Nowowiejska 37B, wpionie.pl An 11 meter climbing wall founded by two mountaineers. Considered one of the most advanced facilities of its kind in the country, English-speaking instructors can be rustled up on request.

swimming Aquapark Wesolandia ul. Wspólna 4 (Wesoła), tel. 22 773 9191, wesolandia.pl Features a recreational pool, kids pool and a 25 meter pool for more serious swimmers. Also on-site, a water tube, Jacuzzi, tennis and fitness facilities.

Holmes Place Premier ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel.

22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, holmesplace. pl All the ‘premier’ outposts of Holmes Place tout swimming pools, though most agree it is the one in the Hilton branch that’s the best.

Enquire direct about membership fees.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel.

22 328 86 40, riverview.com.pl Another members only pool, and this one is really worth the membership cost – it’s the highest pool in Europe. Stunning views of Warsaw make this a swim to remember.

Wodny Park ul. Merliniego 4, tel. 22 854 0130, wodnypark.com.pl When looking for a pool, most look no further: on-site find an Olympic swimming pool, recreational pool complete

Astanga Yoga Studio ul. Gałczyńskiego 4, tel. 22 465 8810, astanga.pl Established in 2005, this studio specializes in ashtanga and also offers physiotherapy, Hawaiian massage, reflexology and kalari chikitsa.

Bikram Yoga Al. Jana Pawła II 61 lok. 305, tel. 888 204 020, www.bikram.pl A new, modern studio equipped with lockers, showers and the requisite hot room. Practitioners of all levels – from newbie to old hand – are welcome.

Diamond Pilates ul. Powsińska 106, tel. 22 331 4495, diamondpilates.pl The first professional Pilates studio in Poland continues to be the pacesetter. Offers group and individual training, the latest equipment, dietary consultations and workshops for instructors.

Padma Studio ul. Wilcza 32/100, tel. 22 625 1217, padmastudio.pl A 60 sq/m studio offering classes in dynamic yoga, Afro Latin dance, Samba, Tai Chi and body / mind awareness.

Pilates (Private Classes) Tel. 608 499 666. A private studio in Wilanów with classes for one to four people that guarantee 100% attention from Laura, your instructor.

Yoga Medica ul. Racławicka 28, tel. 22 409 0354, yogamedica.pl Using hatha yoga as the basis, the individualized approach to exercise comes from the founder’s background as a physiotherapist. Programs ideal for those recovering from injury or health issues.

Yoga Republic ul. Śniadeckich 18 lok. 1, tel. 790 805 853, www.yogarepublic.pl This studio combines the old school with the new, plus a nice dash of prewar charm with a touch of the east.

Yoga Republic offers classes for pregnant women in addition to a full schedule of four other types of yoga to suit experience and expectations (Mysore, Ashtanga, Vinyasa and Beginner’s).

in the city 11:20

a.m.

Reopened after a zł. 15 million restoration, the newly preened Krasińskich Gardens have been made more userfriendly than ever with 200 benches, classical concerts, weekend yoga classes and plenty of shaded corners in which to slouch off with a Kindle.

JUST A PERFECT DAY

Take 24hrs and a small section of the city and the Insider brings you a perfect day…

I

t’s not often my day begins at daybreak – hey, those are the perks of being ‘funemployed’ – but on the occasions it does then WakeCup Café (Franciszkańska 14) is the first point of call: pristine pastries, ballsy Brazilian coffee and a constant café clatter give it an edge over the others. With the essential morning duties wrapped up (Facebook updated), it’s time for some chill down in the nearby park – Krasińskich.

I figured City Hall had dropped a clanger when they announced the felling of 300 trees as part of its restoration, but not at all – what they’ve done is mold an overgrown tangle of Warsaw into a secret garden full of water features and Wimbledon perfect grass. Find a shaded spot, crack open the Kindle and you’ve got a fabulous way of losing some time. But looking at all those ducks can make you hungry, in which case, take the short walk into New Town for lunch. La Rotisserie remains one of the top restaurants in town – no argument – and Paweł Oszczyk among my favorite chefs. His menu is pure luxury, and perfectly adjusted to the blazing hot summer.

What happens next? With lunch complete then a browse of the antique stores of Freta is a must – mostly tourist tat and artsy junk, sure, but I’ve still made some top finds there before. There is a better way to spend your cash though, and one of them is on Elephant: as in the Belgian pub, not the big African animal. Found on Freta 19, I’ve done my best to try a different beer every day for the last six weeks and I’ve still barely made a dent in their collection. That’s not something that makes the girlfriend happy, so it’s an idea to diffuse any issues down at the fountain park below New Town. If that doesn’t work, then turn back to where you began and pick up a film at Kino Muranów.

It remains a trailblazer in terms of edgy art house films. (PB)

1:00

p.m.

5:15

p.m.

Paweł Oszyczyk’s leadership of the La Rotisserie restaurant is one of enduring delights of culinary Warsaw.

Twinned with the advice of Poland’s top sommelier, Andrzej Strzelczyk, you have a restaurant that’s amongst the best in the country.

Beer o’clock in the Elephant Belgian Pub! 180 bottles peer up at you from the fridge, and they’re ably supported by a cast of 21 tap beers. Not just beer, the imported mussels are arguably amongst the best you’ll find in Warsaw.

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listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl

H15 Boutique Apartments ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com

Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com Hotel Regent Warsaw ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw-hotel.pl InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888,

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

4-Star Hotels

MEDIA PATRONAGE COLIN STETSON

July 22 @ Pardon, To Tu, Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, www.pardontotu.pl There’s been some high praise directed at Colin Stetson, not least from Alex Green: “Stetson is like the Roger Federer of avant-garde instrumental music,” writes the critic, “while the Swiss tennis player has changed the way we think about tennis, Stetson is redefining the possibilities of woodwind and brass instruments.” Having recorded with the likes of Tom Waits, The National and Sinead O’Connor, the Warsaw appearance of this Michigan-based saxophonist / multi-reedist carries great expectations. For ticket details check Pardon, To Tu’s website closer to the event.

WARSAW SUMMER JAZZ DAYS 2014 July 9-13 @ ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory)

July is definitely the Jazz Month of Warsaw, the highlight of which is the Summer Jazz Days festival, dating all the way back to the 90s. Spread over multiple locations and with multiple styles and interpretations, this festival is your answer to jazz in the city. Keep an eye out for SBB Michał Urbaniak, the Gerald Clayton Trio, Dave Holland’s Prism, the Warren Wolf Wolfpack, the Gregory Porter Band and many more besides. For further info, check: www. adamiakjazz.pl. Tickets @ ticketpro.pl

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Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.com.pl Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com

3-Star Hotels

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl Castle Inn Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl Golden Tulip ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500.

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, www.hiexpress.com Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000 Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl Hotel Reytan ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www. warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short

listings / in the city stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc.

MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

B&B

Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel.

22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul.

Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360.

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, www.sixt.pl

Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu

useful numbers

Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www.bedandbreakfast.pl

Foreign Assistance Tel. 608 599 999 / 22 278 7777 Information in English, German and Russian available from June 1st to September 30th from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. seven days a week.

Vision Apartments Al. Jerozolimskie 81/22, tel. 22 292 8888, www.visionapartments.eu Founded in Switzerland, Vision specialize in the rental of high quality furnished apartments.

car rental Avis tel. 22 572 6565, Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79

(Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl

Tourist Information ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (airport), Rynek Starego Miasto 19/21/21A, Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel.

22 194 31, warsawtour.pl

RESIDENTS relocation companies Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539,

www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com Besto Relocations ul. Kłobucka 8 /127B, tel. 22 847 8878, www.bestorelocations.com CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/28, tel. 22 670 4280 or 502 216 606 www.duxconsulting.com.pl Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3535, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, www.interdean.com Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160,

www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / in the city www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

polish for foreigners Edu & More ul. Nowogrodzka 44 / 7, tel. 22 622 14 41, www.polishonlinenow.com Polish Language School incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable prices. Intensive & regular Polish courses for beginners.

Business & everyday Polish. Preparatory courses for the state exam as well as for the international ECL certificate in Polish.

Morning, afternoon & evening classes.

Frog ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, tel. 22 403 7872 or 517 459 418, www.frog.org.pl Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish.

Klub Dialogu Gałczyńskiego 4, lok 903, tel. 664 788 004, www.klubdialogu.pl Individual and group courses held either on-site or at the venue of

your choice. Tailor-made packages inc. both intensive and weekend courses.

community InterNations www.internations.org Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s social and corporate circuit, their monthly meetings have become Must Do events on schedules round town.

International Women’s Group of Warsaw iwgwarsaw.eu Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are held on the second and fourth Monday of the month.

Professionals in Warsaw meetup.com/Professionals-in-Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted

by Professionals in Warsaw. Natives and foreigners of all backgrounds and professions are welcomed – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. Search for them on facebook.

St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl The Irish Ball, held on the

Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year.

Taste of the Classics www.fnok.pl A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations.

The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English.

Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine.

Toastmasters International www.toastmasters.org.pl Toastmasters is the international organization for improving public speaking and presentation skills. The local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00.

Guests are always welcome without any obligation apart from a short introduction.

museums & galleries Car Museum ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), tel. 22 758 5067, www.muzuem-motorzyacji.com. pl What looks like a cemetery of rust and

CITY SECRET

Staring at bits of rock and fossils isn’t everyone’s idea of fun, but a visit to the Museum of the Earth (Al. Na Skarpie 27) isn’t necessarily a snore. The building itself is magnificent, and considered “one of the best achievements of contemporary Polish architecture as far as decorative stone is concerned.” The real curiosity, however, is the patch of blood left by an unknown soldier during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. The stain has survived to this day, and can be found in the stairwell leading down to the basement. Entrance, incidentally, is free.

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listings / in the city a tangle of exhaust pipes unravels into Warsaw’s most underrated museum. Find vehicles of every description: Lech Wałesa’s Volvo (with 7cm bullet-proof windows), Gomułka’s ZIS limo, German wartime armor and a pretty-in-pink Buick Skylark – the type favored by Elvis and Marilyn. It’s incredible in its peculiarity, with the random layout, oily smells and dark, cobwebbed corners only adding to the sense of treading somewhere special.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, www.kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Edward Dwurnik, Jenny Holzer, Annie Leibovitz, Wilhelm Sasnal, Andy Warhol). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals.

Ongoing till August 31: Nightmares. A broad presentation of the works of Grzegorz Drosz – from sculpture and paintings to plants and video installations. Expect a marble owl with laser eyes, hallucinogenic plants and other weirdness!

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion.

Ongoing till August 31: Three Times in Poland. American photographer John Vachon visited Poland in 1946, 1956 and 1963, and this exhibition of his photographs provides a fascinating insight into a country struggling to come to terms with the fallout of war and its new social order.

The Heritage Interpretation Center ul. Brzozowa 11-13, www.mhw.pl Beginning with a gigantic tapestry of Warsaw circa 1873, this little known venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction. Walking over a glass floor, beneath which lies smashed masonry and columns recovered from the ruins, a series of then-and-now slides and pictures document Old Town’s annihilation.

If the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed.

Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, www.mhw. pl The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film that details the depressing story behind the destruction of Warsaw.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Invisible Exhibition Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, www.niewidzialna.pl Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering

a drink in a bar.

Jewish Historical Institute ul. Tłomackie 3/5, www.jhi.pl Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains art work, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past.

Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, www.krolikarnia.mnw. art.pl Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, www.lazienki-krolewskie. pl Situated in the picturesque park which once housed the residence of King Stanisław August this museum includes paintings and furniture from one of the most glorious periods in Poland’s history as well as temporary exhibitions of more modern work.

Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find

THE ROYAL CASTLE in Warsaw

Plac Zamkowy 4 tel. (+48 22) 35 55 170 www.zamek-krolewski.pl informacja@zamek-krolewski.pl

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listings / in the city a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight).

Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 70’s super star Kazimierz Deyna.

Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6. Slated to open in the coming months, this hugely impressive museum is already luring streams of onlookers eager to preview the temporary exhibits housed in the opening halls. Ongoing: Biographies of Things. A temporary display of items donated to the museum, among them toys, artwork, photos, religious items and everyday articles like travel trunks and clothing.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Miroslaw Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski. Ongoing: As You Can See – Polish Art Today. The most ‘up-to-date’ collection of Polish modern art to date will apparently be, “critical, liberating, psychedelic, often brutal and perverse, dense and ambiguous.”

Ongoing till Sept 14: In the Near Future.

Works from 47 artists demonstrating the social changes that occurred after 1989.

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl Following a maze-like route in the Palace of Culture, there’s curios aplenty: a Viennese calculator dating from 1898 that’s still in working order; a glowing ‘glass lady’ that lights up to demonstrate the inner workings of the body; communist era sports cars; a WWII Enigma machine. More pertinent to the younger generation, there’s a selection of vintage phones and laptop computers that hipsters would give their life for, not to mention hilarious TVs from days of yore.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc.

Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

Ongoing till August 10: Aleksander Gierymski 1850-1901. The works brought together for this event comprise almost the entirety of Gierymski’s surviving oeuvre – approximately

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120 paintings and oil sketches, 66 drawings, and one sketchbook.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), www. neonmuzeum.org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26. What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation.

Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www. postermuseum.pl With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol.

Railway Museum ul. Towarowa 1, www.muzkol.pl Presented in scale model form, in here find hundreds of trains detailing the development of the Polish rail network. Not interested? Then maybe the three model railway villages will stir childhood memories or how about learning about WARS – Polish rail’s buffet division? Outside, stroll around a remarkable collection of beasts outside. These include a 1942 German armored train – apparently the only one of its type surviving in Europe – not to mention the personal carriage of Bolesław Bierut (Poland’s post-war leader), the rusting carcass of a 60s train and interwar steam engines straight out of Thomas the Tank Engine.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Uprising. Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. For panoramic views of Warsaw check the view tower.

Wola Museum ul. Srebrna 12, www.mhw.pl An unexpectedly amazing museum that’s been turned around thanks to its ambitious, young staff.

Once a dank, dusty space, the reinvention includes ‘the room of one object’, its single exhibit being a 1930s sugar bowl by Julia Keilowa. In keeping with this year’s theme of modernity, it is almost space age in design. There’s the New Varsovians exhibit, dedicated to the young students who arrived to Warsaw in the 1860s and 70s, and the Wola Laboratory, a multimedia exhibition with a focus on the district. All this new wave gadgetry is to be augmented by real objects on the first floor, not to mention an archive of amateur film – the first such archive in Poland Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art. pl Featuring in the collection are works

by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera. Ongoing until Aug 31: Anemona Crisan: Installation for the Interior. Ongoing: Monument. The Architecture of Adolf Szyszko Bohusz. Considered one of the most important architects of Poland’s Second Republic, this exhibition explores themes of mythmaking via architecture, the quest for style forms and the use of modernism as ‘style dressing’ for the political regime.

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BAR SPY

Talk of the Town

Our eavesdropping mascot returns from the bars of Warsaw with more tall tales of ex-pat high jinks and horseplay. Sneaking behind pillars and posts, the Bar Spy reveals a world where truth and fiction exist side-by-side.

“Ages ago I was working in a café in Edinburgh – there was this woman who’d always come in with her kid in a pram.

Always scribbling away in a notebook, she was. I got talking to her one day and asked her what she was doing. ‘I’m writing a book about a boy wizard called Barry Potter,’ she replied. ‘Nah, that’ll never work,’ I answered, ‘you need to call him something snappy, something like Harry.’ I don’t want to claim credit for a global phenomenon, but you know the rest.”

“I’m one of these paranormal geeks – I was visiting Poznań for the weekend so got in touch with their Tourist Information people and asked them if there were any ghost hunts I

104 Warsaw Insider | JULY 2014

could go on. ‘We’ve got the most famous ghosts in Poland,’ came the reply, ‘we’ll organize a tour with a local expert.’

Brilliant. I was so thrilled I got together a small group of us from Warsaw to go down with me. Turns out she’d misunderstood me and thought I was talking about those stupid mechanical goats that are on display in the Poznań clock tower... I’ve never been on such a boring tour in all my life.”

“Had a work trip to the south of Poland not long back – with my meetings done I picked up a takeaway curry from Kraków and then checked into my hotel for the night in Nowa Huta.

So I’m up in my room, it’s been a long, hot day so I take off my clothes and chill out a bit. It’s only when I’m settled naked in the bed, eating my vindaloo, that I realize there’s a suitcase in the room that isn’t mine. Within seconds it’s dawned on me I’ve somehow ended up in someone else’s room. I’ve never got dressed that fast in my life – imagine coming back to your room and finding a naked stranger sitting in your bed with an onion bhaji…”

ILLUSTRATION BY FILIP DUTKIEWICZ

“I was in a queue to board a plane the other month, behind Robert Lewandowski. In the next queue, a woman told her elderly mother that there was a famous footballer opposite.

The old dear took one look at me and said, ‘are you sure kochanie, that man is way too fat to be a footballer’.”