Warsaw Insider February 2014 #210

Movie Role Playing

Carnivore vs.

Vegetarian

page 18

Warsaw

page 22

An Amaro Love Story page 33

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LIGHTS, CAMERA, ROMANCE

Moliera 2, Warszawa tel.: +48 228277099, www.moliera2.com

to our readers

FEBRUARY 2014

WARSAW IN LOVE

A

nd there was me thinking we were going to have an English winter. January began in unexpected style: sharp sunshine, clear skies and not a fleck of snow in the air. For a brief moment, even my local newsagent cracked a smile. Of course, it was too good to last. Winter landed with a thud, bringing with it the standard tribulations: where the hell did I put that hat of mine? And who stole my gloves?

Warsaw has blossomed in recent years. What once looked like the glowering bastard child of Stalin has developed into a thriving, thrilling city. But, with the thermometer hovering somewhere around Minus Aaargh, the qualities of this town become harder to appreciate. Viewed through a film of mist, murk and muck, Warsaw doesn’t look too handsome. Certainly, this city is not the natural setting for a romantic blockbuster. Yet you know what, with Valentine’s in mind, we’ve done our best to do just that: adapting the world’s most famous romances to a Warsaw backdrop. See the results on page 18.

Elsewhere, we explore Warsaw’s growing passion for food, talking with vegetarian crusader Marta Dymek, and grilling chef Aleksander Baron on the joys of offal – because opposites attract, yeah? For the feminine touch, we’ve interviewed Agnieszka Amaro, one half of the partnership that created Poland’s first Michelin restaurant, and wrapping it up we have a collection of the most idiotic expat love stories we’ve yet to hear. In short, this issue is a cracker! So, enjoy, see you next time, happy Valentine’s, etc.

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.com

THE ONLINE INSIDER www.warsawinsider.pl

Officially recognized as Poland’s premier Englishlanguage magazine, the Insider is delighted to announce the launch of its new look website. Designed to reflect the nature of a dynamic and energizing capital, the Online Insider sails you through one of Europe’s most exciting cities. In a fast evolving city, the Online Insider opens the door to Warsaw’s secrets, stories and latest scoops. Don’t let Warsaw leave you behind: • Full restaurant, nightlife, café and shopping listings • In-depth picks, past and present • Features

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Warsaw’s best make out spot? Quite possibly. Inspired

by Woody Allen’s classic Manhattan, this issue we’ve got Most Poniatowskiego on the cover – for more iconic silver screen romances see page 18.

WARSAW INSIDER | FEBRUARY 2014

• Calendar • City Search • Blog • Newsletter blasts

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

on the cover

MONCLER RALPH LAUREN SALVATORE FERRAGAMO TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com

what’s inside

FEBRUARY 2014

LISTINGS

Culture

Restaurants

Cafes & Wine Bars

Nightlife

Shopping

Children

Lifestyle

07 Opener Fabio Cavallucci 08 Calendar Music, art and events around town 10 Museums

Listings 31 Insider’s Pick Bistro Pigalle 46 Insider’s Pick Wootwórnia

61 Insider’s Pick

Być Może

18

65 Insider’s Pick

Polonez

Found in Translation: a Warsaw love story

INfront

13 News in Brief

Strip club causes fury, serial killer

causes panic and Legia get in touch

with their LGBT side

adapted to a Warsaw backdrop

22 Opposties Attract: Vegetarian

Warsaw’s growing fascination

with the vegetarian lifestyle

16 City News

Saska and Keret house make headlines,

Warsaw’s iconic palm fights for its future

26 Opposties Attract: Carnivore

Totally offal! Getting to the meat

of the matter

30 Warsaw Foodie

Latest from the blog frontline

33 Love Story

Interview with Agnieszka Amaro

on life and love

FEATURES

18 Lights, Camera, Romance

The most romantic films you’ll ever see

Editor-in-chief

Art Director

Publisher Advertising Manager Key Account Manager Key Account Manager Key Account Manager Distribution Manager

88 Why Warsaw?

True tales of ex-pats in love

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Agata Torańska atoranska@valkea.com Agnieszka Kuczyńska akuczynska@valkea.com A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Karolina Kalinowska Michał Miszkurka Agnes Monod-Gayraud Ed Wight

71 Insider’s Pick

Agent Provocateur 75 Insider’s Pick

National Stadium

Ice Rink 79 Insider’s Pick

HOT_elarnia

Hotel & Spa 84 Street Index 85 Classifieds 86 Warsaw Map

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VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2014 Warsaw Insider.

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WARSAW INSIDER | FEBRUARY 2014

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Interview: Fabio Cavallucci 7

CULTURE

for more events visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

EVENTS 8 / MUSEUMS 10

Interview: Fabio Cavallucci

“ We need to pay attention so as not to lose the quality of Polish art and Polish culture”

art on display, however. We have music, cinema, performances, theatre, dance.

More accurately, we are a center for arts, plural, not art.

The Italian Job

For the last four years Fabio Cavallucci has acted as director of Warsaw’s acclaimed CSW gallery. This issue he speaks to the Insider about the state of Polish art.

BY KAROLINA KALINOWSKA

WI: What’s the current art scene like in Poland, and what’s it like in the global context?

FC: I think that the contemporary art scene in the last two or three decades has become one of the most interesting in Europe. After the fall of Communism, Polish contemporary art became a very important issue and helped in building the identity of the country. Artists came to discuss every possible theme in a very representative way, often controversially, and art became a point of discussion. If we were to choose two countries in Europe in which art is still important and the legacy of the contemporary art of the 90s continues it would be Poland and Great Britain.

WI: Compared to other places where you’ve lived and worked, how do you perceive Polish people’s attitude towards art?

FC: Here there is still an interest in it, much more than in other countries. Of course you have venues like MoMA, Tate Modern, Gugghenheim… tourist meccas visited by millions of visitors. But normal modern art museums get a bigger audience in Poland, in contrast to other countries.

WI: How does the CSW differ from other such institutions in Warsaw?

FC: Interestingly we tried a few years ago to start a discussion with other art institutions in order to divide our activities – but we didn’t succeed. We don’t just have visual

WI: How do such institutions in Poland fare on the European or global scale?

FC: In a way they are better because they have a greater specificity, based on the art that is here. They are not supermarkets – places where you find products that you find everywhere else. We are much better in terms of content but still need to improve promotion and other commodities that visitors are used to.

WI: How would you like to see modern art institutions changing or evolving?

FC: We need to pay attention so as not to lose the quality of Polish art and Polish culture and what is interesting and important here. However, we should try to improve communications with the visitors.

WI: Finally, what is your favorite thing about Warsaw?

FC: I never thought about it actually!

But here, things should be a little bit discovered. You can go through seemingly unappealing streets but feel an energy because there are things hidden inside.

This allows Warsaw to avoid slipping into superficiality.

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CULTURE 1 CONCERT Glasvegas 20:00, Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A This Glaswegian indie-rock band hit the big time in 2009 when their debut album Glasvegas was nominated for the Mercury Music Prize. While their latest album Later… When the TV Turns to Static was a commercial flop, they retain a cult following. Having signed to BMG last summer, the signs suggest the good times aren’t over. No ticket details at press time, so check for updates at: klubproxima.com.pl

DANCE High Contrast 22:00, Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 6 The Cardiff-born DJ, a.k.a Lincoln Barrett, is globally renowned for his drum’n’bass and liquid funk sound. Signed to Hospital Records, he’s headlined at Global Gathering, Coachella and the Electric Daisy Carnival, and has also collaborated with dance gods such as Tiesto. Tickets zł. 29.

2 CONCERT Warsaw Improvisers Concert 20:00, Klub Powiększenie, ul. Nowy Świat 27 A once-per-month initiative that collects a load of musicians on stage before letting them get on with it. The results are extraordinary. Tickets from zł. 10.

4 CONCERT Lucky Dragons 20:00, Klub Powiększenie,

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ul. Nowy Świat 27 This Californian act are known for their experimental performances that mix elements of audience participation with video projection and their trademark ‘post-song’ sound. Tickets from zł. 20-30.

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15-18

BALLET Midsummer Night’s Dream Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1 A classic with choreography

by John Neumier and music by Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy and Gyorgy Ligeti. See how the Polish National Ballet and Polish National Opera handle this grand production. Tickets from zł. 60-145, further info at: teatrwielki.pl

MUSICAL Le Rossignol (The Nightingale) Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1 A musical fairytale based on The Nightingale as written by Hans Christian Anderson. Catch the Polish National Opera as conducted by Modestas Pirenas.

Further info at: teatrwielki.pl

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5 CONCERT R5 19:30, Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A These LA pop rockers consist of siblings Ricky, Ross, Rydel and Rocky Lynch (really…), plus their mate Ellington Ratliff.

Nominated as Best Music Group in last year’s Radio Disney Awards, they’re riding high on the success of their debut album Louder. Tickets from zł. 69-79.

6 CONCERT Ellie Goulding 20:00, Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A Formally part of burgeoning power couple together with producer Skrillex, this criticallyacclaimed singer-songwriter first found fame in 2010 with her debut long play release Lights. Since then singles such as Anything Could Happen have made her a bona fide star on both sides of the Atlantic.

Chloe Howl supports. Tickets from ebilet.pl

WARSAW INSIDER | FEBRUARY 2014

MUSCIAL My Fair Lady 19:00, PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1 No introductions are necessary, surely? Dubbed ‘the perfect musical’, this international hit follows the story of chirpy cockney flower girl Eliza Doolittle and her elocutionary mentor Professor Henry Higgins. Tickets from ebilet.pl

18 CONCERT John Mayall 19:00, Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 The founder of The Bluesbreakers is one of the enduring legends of the jazz and blues circuit, with a CV that stretches back to the 60s when he used to perform with Eric Clapton. Success has followed him through his professional life, so expect a packed house for this performance. Tickets from zł. 121-134. For further info see: stodola.pl

14 CONCERT The Magic of Motown 20:00, PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1 A spectacular show that brings together the best of the Four Tops, Temptations, Jackson 5, Supremes, Stevie Wonder, Lionel Richie and many more besides.

Tickets from zł. 60-250, available at: ticketpro.pl

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19

DANCE London Elektricity 22:00, Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 6 This DJ incorporates styles as diverse as drum’n’bass, breakbeat and acid jazz, and will be supported by MC Wrec and Etherwood. No ticket details at press time, so keep your eyes on: artbasen.pl

CONCERT Bullet For My Valentine 19:00, Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 This Welsh heavy metal act have three million album sales to their name, not to mention the small matter of three Kerrang! awards for Best British Band. Considered giants in their genre, this night is going to be a banger. Tickets zł. 95-110. For further info see: stodola.pl

20 CONCERT The Bohemians 19:00, Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Lauded as one of the most entertaining Queen tributes around, The Bohemians land in Poland for

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS OR ARTISTS

EVENTS THIS MONTH

a night of pure high energy rock.

“They’re uncanny,” says Roger Taylor! Tickets from zł. 99-129. For further info see: stodola.pl

language and hilarious videos.

See what the fuss is about this month at Stodoła. Tickets from zł.

35. For further info see: stodola.pl

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22

CONCERT Garou 19:00, PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1 This celebrated Canadian singer has worked with Luc Plamondon, Michel Sardou and Celine Dion, and remains a huge hit on both sides of the Atlantic. His trip to Warsaw promotes his latest studio outing, Au Milieu de ma vie, not to mention several of his previous top-sellers. Tickets from eventim.pl

CONCERT Kitaro 19:00, PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1 A pioneer of New Age music, this Japanese artist has amassed a bevvy of awards, not least a Grammy and a Golden Globe.

Also known for composing the score for The Silk Road series, his arrival to Poland is widely anticipated by his army of followers. Tickets from ebilet.pl

CONCERT Gary Numan 20:00, Palladium, ul. Złota 9 A 70s and 80s icon best celebrated for his hit Cars, Gary Numan has continued to woo international audiences of loyal Numanoids. His Warsaw visit coincides with a promotional tour for his 2013 album Splinter (Songs From a Broken Mind).

Tickets from zł. 120-135, at eventim.pl

23 CONCERT Backstreet Boys 19:00, Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A This is not a boy band! Preferring instead to promote themselves as a ‘vocal harmony group’ you can still gamble on plenty of screaming teens. Around for 20 years, the original lineup comes to Poland to warble out the hits that have made them a global sensation. Tickets from zł.

170-699.

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21 & 22 CONCERT Bracia Figo Fagot 20:00, Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 This cult Warsaw collective is best known for their ironic (and iconic) disco polo beats, pithy lyrics, blue

CONCERT Steel Panther 19:00, Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A An L.A. based heavy metal parody act that relives the 80s with their OTT stage persona and lyrics that are celebrated for their profanity and wit. But this is no joke novelty act – they’ve toured with some huge names, among them Motley Crue, Guns’n’Roses and Def Leppard. Tickets from zł.

80-100, available at: eventim.pl

Box Office

The seventh annual Orange Warsaw Festival (June 13-15) will be the biggest to date, with organizers announcing the music festival will now cover the course of three days.

At press time confirmed acts included Snoop Dogg, Queens of the Stone Age, Florence and the Machine and Kings of Leon. Tickets start at zł. 199 and rise to zł. 1,789 and were made available at the end of Jan from: eventim.pl.

Media Patronage

February 12 Michael Zerang: An Evening of Experimental Music Pardon To Tu, Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, www.pardontotu.pl

F

or two years running Pardon To Tu was named in our Best of Warsaw issue as the Best Live Music venue in the city, and they’ve sure started the new year with a bang. In February the highlight comes in the form of ‘An Evening of Experimental Music’ featuring percussionist Michael Zerang, vocalist / violinist / percussionist Iwona Jędruch and Tadeusz Sudnik taking care of the electronics. Professionally active since 1976, Chicagoborn Zerang has over 80 titles in his discography and has toured over 34 countries. Known for his improvised music and free jazz, this prolific musician is guaranteed to provide a night to remember. For ticket details check their web closer to the event.

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CULTURE Car Museum ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), tel. 22 758 5067, www.muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl What looks like a cemetery of rust and a tangle of exhaust pipes unravels into Warsaw’s most underrated museum. Find vehicles of every description: Lech Wałesa’s Volvo (with 7cm bullet-proof windows), Gomułka’s ZIS limo, German wartime armor and a pretty-in-pink Buick Skylark – the type favored by Elvis and Marilyn. It’s incredible in its peculiarity, with the random layout, oily smells and dark, cobwebbed corners only adding to the sense of treading somewhere special.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, www.kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. Ongoing until March 30: Accelerating Science. This temporary exhibition poses the question, ‘how was the universe born’?

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Edward Dwurnik, Jenny Holzer, Annie Leibovitz, Wilhelm Sasnal, Andy Warhol).

The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Ongoing till Feb 2: Kolekcja Fragment. Highlights from the exhibitions of nine artists who’ve had their work presented at CSW in the last three years. Ongoing till April 21: Future Perfect, Contemporary Art from Germany. The works of 16 artists from the ‘middle and younger generations’ are presented, including those of Cyprien Gaillard, Dani Gal, Annette Kelm and Armin Linke.

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Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’

It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion.

chopin.museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before.

Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Jewish Historical Institute ul. Tłomackie 3/5, www.jhi.pl Officially opened in1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains art work, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past.

Ongoing until April: The Photographs of Yoram Gross.

An intriguing collection of photographs taken by filmmaker Yoram Gross in 2012 when he toured Poland to show his grandchildren the country of his birth.

Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, www.krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska.

Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, www.mhw.pl The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film titled, it details the powerful story behind the destruction of Warsaw.

Preludes of the Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6.

Slated to fully open in the 2014, this hugely impressive museum is already luring streams of onlookers eager to preview the temporary exhibits housed in the opening halls. Ongoing: Biographies of Things. A temporary display of items donated to the museum, among them toys, artwork, photos, religious items and everyday articles like travel trunks and clothing.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1,

WARSAW INSIDER | FEBRUARY 2014

Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl Situated in the picturesque park which once housed the residence of King Stanisław August this museum includes paintings and furniture from one of the most glorious periods in Poland’s history as well as temporary exhibitions of more modern work.

Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer,

Magdalena Abakanowicz, Miroslaw Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski.

From February 14: As You Can See – Polish Art Today. The most ‘up-to-date’ collection of Polish modern art to date, will apparently be, “critical, liberating, psychedelic, often brutal and perverse, dense and ambiguous.” From February 14: In the Near Future. Works from 47 artists demonstrating the social changes that occurred after 1989.

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl The very opposite of the new-fangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc.

Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Ongoing till Feb 2: Guercino. The Triumph of Baroque. A showcase of one of the most extraordinary Italian baroque painters.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), www.neonmuzeum.org A complete departure from the stuff museums in Poland are famed for, this long awaited project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS OR ARTISTS

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and occupation of Warsaw.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26.

What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation.

Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www.postermuseum.pl With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest

poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol.

Railway Museum ul. Towarowa 1, www.muzkol.pl Inside the museum contains an unimaginative formula of train models (including one charmingly outdated model displaying a crash!), uniforms and paintings depicting Polish rail travel through the passage of time. Outside it’s a different story – find an amazing collection of locomotives, including armored vehicles and Comrade Bierut’s luxury saloon car.

Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive

story of the Uprising. Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw.

Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk.

Maciejuk, Honza Zamojski.

Top and bottom. This joint exhibition is a culminating point for the two artists’ long friendship and collaboration. Ongoing until Feb 6: Map. Artistic Migrations and the Cold War. A reflection of the dynamic art world after the Second World War. Ongoing until Feb 23: Amore ódio à Lygia Clark (I Love and Hate Lygia Clark). A retrospective exhibition showcasing Brazilian artists of the younger generation.

Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera.

Ongoing until Feb 16: Robert

NEED TO KNOW Museum hours (and prices) change way frequently, so check indiviudal websites for the latest story. Note that many of these addresses close one day per week.

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INFRONT CITY NEWS 16 / CRIME 14 / LOCAL 13 / NATIONAL 14 / NEWS 14 / SPORT 14

LOCAL

Go-Go is a No-No

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX WEBBER

A Warsaw strip club has provoked outrage after opening on Krakowskie Przedmieście, one of the most historically significant streets in the country. Locals, clergy and war veterans were left incensed when Cocomo club announced their launch by illuminating all the windows at No. 55 in an Amsterdam shade of bordello red. “This isn’t Bangkok,” stormed one resident, “this is the route of monarchs. What will tourists think? It makes a joke out of the capital.”

In an apparent climb-down Cocomo hastily swapped the red lights for blue, though the move has done little to placate the critics. Churchgoers have been offended by the fleshpot’s proximity to a number of houses of worship, while a combatants association has also entered the fray citing the building’s role in the Warsaw Uprising – in 1944 a daring raid by the Home Army led to the capture of a German pharmacy at this address, thus providing urgent medical supplies needed by the insurgents.

Within a matter of days over 15,000 people bombarded City Hall with emails protesting against the strip club, though so far city officials have insisted that they are powerless to close the club. “The building isn’t owned by the city,” said Bartosz Miliczarczyk, a spokesman for City Hall, “so as long as what goes on inside is legal, the owner can rent it out to who he likes.” But Cocomo have found an unlikely ally in politician Robert Biedroń, who stirred further controversy by claiming Jesus would have visited. “He certainly wouldn’t have minded,” said Biedroń, “he’d have even gone along to see what was going on inside… maybe the priests are afraid of temptation.”

Cocomo isn’t the only go-go club to hit headlines in January. Plans to open a strip joint on Foksal 19 have also caused offence, with local residents left fuming that a historic building with links to some of Poland’s finest literary figures could serve such a function. Expect both stories to run and run… (AW)

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INFRONT

BRIEFING ED WIGHT’S NEWS BITES SNAPPED!

Charity Under Fire

Jerzy Owsiak, the front man of WOŚP, Poland’s most high profile charity, came under fire from Law & Justice MP Krystyna Pawłowicz who accused him of ‘brainwashing’ the public into making donations. Others called into question the January event, which raised zł. 35 million this year (a figure set to rise to zł. 50 million), accusing Owsiak of sitting on the money and spending just half of the funds collected. Pawłowicz had also claimed the Owsiak has been ‘indoctrinating the young with left wing ideology’ through his annual Przystanek Woodstock concert.

SPORT

Hello Boys!

Legia fans were incensed after a Facebook account purporting to be a LGBT supporters’ branch appeared online. The page replaced Legia’s iconic green, white and red crest with the colors of the rainbow, prompting fans to accuse the page’s admin of desecrating the club’s colors.

The story quickly went viral, leaving Legia’s macho, right wing element fuming at the perceived disgrace. The page was deleted within days, with pranksters from Lech Poznań taking credit for the hoax.

CRIME

Killer Bids for Freedom

A serial killer known as the Satan of Piotrków could be back on the streets if his appeal for parole is granted. Mariusz Trynkiewicz was apprehended in 1988, and sentenced to death after murdering four boys and then burning their bodies. But the pedophile PE teacher from Piotrków Trybunalksi had his sentence commuted to 25 years imprisonment after parliament declared an amnesty on death row inmates following the political changes of 1989. Medical documents obtained

by TVN claim there is a risk he will reoffend. If released, law enforcement officials have announced round-the-clock surveillance plans to trail the pervert.

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WARSAW INSIDER | FEBRUARY 2014

SNOT’S UP, DOC? A man with a rabbit had to be evicted from a doctor’s surgery after insisting the animal be treated for a cold. Simple Szymon Szymanski, 45, from Kraków had taken the distressed thumper to his local doc’s after noticing mucus dripping from its nose.

But rather than being shown in to see the doctor, startled Szymon was told to leave, and threatened with the police if he refused. “I assumed my rabbit had caught a cold and wanted the doctor to treat him,” he said. Staff at the surgery said: “He should have taken the rabbit to a vet’s, not a doctor’s surgery.”

COCK-A-DOODLE-POOH! A farmer had a rude awakening when he found his pet cockerel sitting on his head and defecating. Unlucky Franciszek Zalewski, 56, from Lublin, said: “I was woken up by him screeching at the top of his voice.

When I went to remove him from my head I felt something warm and unpleasant. That’s when I realised he’d pooped on me.” Farmer Frank added: “I don’t know how he got into the house, but I’ll be making sure his cage is secure from now on.”

PHOTOGRAPH NU SHUTTERSTOCK

NATIONAL

Amateur photographer Damian Miechowicz, 26, was dumped by his girlfriend when she snapped after seeing photos he’d taken of her plastered all over town. The wannabe paparazzo had secretly used a telephoto-lens to take candid shots of student girlfriend Asia, 25, emerging from shop doorways, walking with friends and drinking in pubs – without her knowing. He’d then photoshopped the blurry black and whites into 100 posters and pinned them up in pub toilets in his hometown of Wrocław, alongside the caption: “Beauty and the Best.”

Fuming Asia said: “First, he didn’t let me know he was doing this. Second, the pictures were crap. And third, the caption didn’t even make sense. The man is an imbecile.”

INFRONT

IN THE CITY A Tight Squeeze

Warsaw’s Keret House, thought to be one of the skinniest houses in the world, was recognized at the prestigious Urban Living Awards after it was nominated in the ‘Built Architecture’ category. Just 71cm at its narrowest point, the structure was designed by Jakub Szczęsny and fills a gap between two buildings in the courtyard of Chłodna 22.

Saska Woos the News

Facing Extinction?

One of Warsaw’s defining landmarks is under threat after the city announced hopes to turn the roundabout at Rondo De Gaulle’a into a crossroads. Such a move would leave the iconic palm tree that currently stands in the middle without a home. The installation was devised by artist Joanna Rajkowska and made its debut in 2002. After originally sparking dissent from traditionalists, the palm tree has since become a much-loved emblem of modern Warsaw. But before the city steams ahead with its plan, it must first survive a public debate on the matter that has been scheduled for January 27. Once all sides of the argument are heard, the city council will convene at a later date to vote on how to proceed next.

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Spanning an area of just 14 sq/m, the building was opened in 2012 by author Etgar Keret.

While plans to rent it to visiting artists and academics have been put on ice, the building has continued to attract global attention and local curiosity. First prize was eventually awarded to Daniel Dethier’s University Lecture Hall in Liege.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Warsaw’s favorite garden suburb, Saska Kępa, found itself the focus of a New York Times feature, prompting a swell of local pride in the Polish media. “The prestigious American journal raved about Saska Kępa,” wrote Newsweek Polska, before continuing, “the journalists appreciated the pre-war charm of the district, its architecture and restaurants.” According to the NYT, the average property price of zł. 8,900 per sq/m is attributable directly to the area’s appeal. “It is Saska Kępa that is credited with keeping the district’s prices as high as they are,” wrote Nick Foster, “and its appealing streets and family-style housing have produced a gentrification that continues to increase demand.”

PARMIZZANO’S – LITTLE ITALY IN WARSAW 45-minutowy lunch od poniedzia³ku do pi¹tku w godzinach 12:00-15:00 2 dania w cenie 55 PLN, 3 dania w cenie 65 PLN. Codziennie nowe menu.

45-minute lunch from Monday to Friday 12:00 AM-3:00 PM 2 courses at 55 PLN, 3 courses at 65 PLN. New menu everyday.

WARSAW MARRIOTT HOTEL Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 00-697 Warszawa Rezerwacje/Reservations: +48 22 630 5096 www.warsawmarriott.com, www.warsawmarriott.pl

VALENTINE'S DAY WARSAW ON SCREEN

FOUND IN TRANSLATION

With Valentine’s Day in the air, the Insider picked through its movie library for slushy film scenes that could be easily duplicated to a Warsaw background.

The results were a shocker… BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT | MODEL NATALIA HUBER

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LOST IN TRANSLATION

This quintessential 21st century love story explores themes of solitude, melancholy and culture shock to a neon Tokyo backdrop. Director Sofia Coppola’s delicate cinematography is a joy, with the choice of film locations directly reflecting the intended sense of disassociation. Throughout the film, screen siren Scarlett Johansson spends much of her time perched on the window sill of her hotel room, the megalopolis glinting below as she ‘dreamily gazes out of her gilded birdcage.’ Now Warsaw’s not short of giant, luxury hotels, but few can compete with the views and pampered glory of the InterContinental – with the toy town scurrying ant-like below, you feel you can almost lean out and push the Palace of Culture over. Certainly, from the top of the Inter-Conti, one feels, almost, as if on a different planet. As such, nowhere felt more suitable for that definitive Johansson pose, even if photographing it contributed to possibly the most sheepish moment in Insider history: with our shoot in full swing, a porter entered to restock the minibar only to find a half-dressed model and two sweaty bozos wrestling with camera equipment. “This is not what it looks like,” we babbled... As for the film’s other iconic image – Bill Murray staring blankly from a hotel bed – we opted for the photographer’s hotel, H15, primarily because in our embarrassment we’d forgotten to shoot that particular scene in the InterContinental the day before.

NOTTING HILL

Long before Hugh Grant became a paparazzi-thumping tough guy, he was best known as a ‘rom com’ darling. And where the rom com genre is concerned, you don’t get much bigger than Notting Hill. In it Grant plays bumbling Will Thacker, the tongue-tied owner of The Travel Book Shop, a dusty little store specializing in you-can-guess-what. It’s here he meets Hollywood star Anna in typically shambolic circumstances before embarking on a roller coaster romance marred by his own hapless bungling. Could such a scene be replicated in Warsaw? Sort of. While the city has a scattering of travel bookstores, none meet the creaky, curiosity shop criteria that define Thacker’s lair. Instead, you’re best off scoping out Kwadryga (Wilcza 29, kwadryga.com).

Entered through a courtyard, it’s a magnet for bibliophiles, and groans with antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless. But could we carry it off ourselves? No – the place had closed by the time we arrived.

WHEN HARRY MET SALLY

Even if you haven’t seen the film, you’ll be familiar with the scene – while bickering in a diner over whether men can tell if a woman is faking, Meg Ryan bursts into a staged, screaming orgasm while a nonplussed Billy Crystal stares down in shame. With Meg, erm, done, Estelle Reiner lets rip with the classic one-liner: “I’ll have what she’s having.”

It’s pure movie gold. Shot in Katz’s Delicatessen, New York, nowhere in Warsaw can match up to Katz’s history – opened in 1888, it’s been referenced in numerous other flicks, and is globally recognized for its signature pastrami.

In comparison, Warsaw is playing catch-up. But catching up it certainly is. The last couple of years have been characterized by a growing appreciation of ‘dirty food done right’: as such pimped up burgers, tacos and wings are available widely, but while many aspire to the authentic American

“S tay here with me.

We'll start a jazz band” - Lost in Translation

taste, none do so as convincingly as Burger Kitchen (Widok 8). Pair that with an interior that was inspired ‘by the kind of diners you’d see in American 70s cop shows’, and you get the perfect venue for that Meg Ryan moment.

And the food really is that good.

MANHATTAN

Forgetting his rather dubious and somewhat suspect personal history, there’s no doubting Woody Allen’s ability to pen a good yarn. And that’s what he does with Manhattan, a touching romance concerning an unfulfilled writer and his convoluted love life. Described by some critics as ‘a hymn to New York’, the film is packed with iconic scenes that use the city as a background. But it is the shot of the Queensboro Bridge that lingers longest in the memory. It is under this that Allen and Diane Keaton watch sunrise while sat on a bench, a scene later chosen as the image for the official film poster. Warsaw has no shortage of bridges, and some of them, if you’re drunk, even resemble the Queensboro job. For our part, we’d chosen Most Poniatowskiego to reproduce the moment. The reasoning was simple: while physical similarities were scant, no other bridge in the capital can match Poniatowski for its mysterious haunting beauty. And it’s got a cool story to boot: which other bridge do you know that’s been blown up twice, burned down once and collapsed another time. But how did our shoot go? It didn’t. Dawn in the middle of a Polish winter is no time to be canoodling on benches. facebook.com/warsawinsider

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VALENTINE'S DAY WARSAW ON SCREEN

PRETTY WOMAN

Hooker Vivian (Julia Roberts) is ‘the tart with a heart’, working her patch off Sunset Boulevard when, oh my gosh, Richard Gere happens to stop by for directions. Cue rocky romance, awkward social situations and zillions of halfbaked analogies involving Cinderella and her Knight in Shining Armor. Setting Pretty Woman to fit Warsaw posed a few problems – originally, the plan had been to get myself and Natalia, our model, to dress up accordingly and recreate the opening scenes on ul. Wspólna – a street where those who work in the oldest profession look like they’ve been at it since that profession was first invented.

The whole scheme was something that sat uncomfortably with us – what if Nat, dressed in a skirt that could be mistaken for a belt, was actually propositioned by a real life curb crawler? Worse, what if I was nicked for pimping her out? With these problems weighing on our minds, we cheated. So, instead, we shot the Pretty Woman poster in a hotel corridor. Easy.

SLEEPLESS IN SEATTLE

Plot: irritating pre-teen son convinces single father to find love via a radio call show, then proceeds to tag along on his first date to the observation deck of the Empire State Building. Of all the scenes we had in mind this was clearly the easiest of the lot – in the phallic shape of the Palace of Culture Warsaw has its own Empire State Building. In fact, if books are to be believed, architect Lev Rudnev ironically took inspiration from the New York landmark when designing the Stalinist showpiece. All we had to do was get up there, abduct a nine-year-old, and shoot the scene where a teddy-bear clutching Meg Ryan meets up with a

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“ I 'll have what she's having ” - When Harry Met Sally

funky-haired Tom Hanks. We had the backpack (note: see the film), we had the bear (note to the police: we didn’t get the kid), what we didn’t have was a photographer with his camera charged up. End result: failure.

TITANIC

It’s hard to fathom in hindsight, but when it was released Titanic was hailed by some mugs as the greatest film EVER made – if you needed evidence just how desperate the 90s were, well, there you go. But this aside, there’s no doubting that James Cameron’s blockbuster is one of the soppiest films ever released. As such, we simply had to feature it in this piece. But how? Unfortunately, Warsaw is not Sichuan, where if media reports are correct a US$195 million life-size replica is being built for a Titanic theme park (google it!). Finding a boat, any boat in fact, was a hard task – this being winter all of the little tugs that pootle up the Wisła were out of action. So, alas, the “I’m the King of the World” scene found itself scratched from our list.

And a good job – the test shots conducted in the hotel were a disaster… “You’re meant to look like you’re in love with her,” grumbled the photographer to me, “instead you look like you want to attack her.”

“W ell color me happy!

There's a sofa in here for two! �

- Pretty Woman

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IT'S EASY BEING GREEN

Author of the cult Jadłonomia blog, Marta Dymek talks to the Insider about her vegetarian mission. BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARTA DYMEK

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“E ven food critic Maciej

Nowak is starting to forgive vegetarians and goes the extra mile to understand us ” Something of an ambassador of vegetarianism, Marta Dymek runs the phenomenal Jadłonomia blog, from which she has been imparting her vegetarian recipes and wisdom since 2010.

Check for yourself at: www.jadlonomia.com

Have you tried veganism?

I only cook vegan! I can’t accept the way that dairy is produced nowadays: it’s so environmentally damaging and unsustainable. The livestock industry is a huge contributor to greenhouse gas emissions, and the mass production of milk and yogurt is one of the biggest ecological disasters ever. The dairy produced this way is of very low quality, full of antibiotics, and that’s before mentioning how the cows even live. Of course, there are small eco farms using ethical methods, but these are expensive and hard to find in groceries. So as a food blogger I decided to show that plant-based cooking can be a mouthwatering alternative.

Who are some of your culinary inspirations?

Israeli chef Yotam Ottolenghi. He published an amazing book Plenty focused just on veggies, lentils and grains.

Although he is a meat eater he treats veggies very seriously and he’s aware how important they are. I also appreciate British food writer Nigel Slater, who wrote an enormous tome Tender about fruits and vegetables – no-one can describe aubergine in such a beautiful way or understand the nature of the gooseberry as well as he does. But my ultimate and once in a lifetime inspiration is Amanda Cohen, a vegetarian chef from NYC who created brave new flavors using meat free ingredients. Think aubergine tiramisu and beet caramel. Everything is possible in her kitchen.

Where do vegetarians stand in Warsaw?

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Right now we’re fully satisfied! Last year was crucial; all of a sudden every cafe served soy milk, each restaurant had a vegetarian option for lunch, and there were a lot of new decent vegetarian and vegan spots, including vegan burger places – in particular, they’ve got great flavors and give you super powers! And they’re undeniable proof that being vegetarian doesn’t hurt. Even food critic Maciej Nowak is starting to forgive vegetarians and goes the extra mile to understand us! Meatless restaurants have also popped up in Poznań, Wrocław and Kraków, though vegetarians living in smaller towns have not been so spoiled.

What difficulties do they face eating out?

It’s very likely that if you go to a restaurant in a small town, a vegetarian dish might be understood to be chicken or fish.

If you’re lucky you’ll have pierogi with a salad of some sort, but you’d better forget about soup because as these are always cooked using a meat stock. Of course, it’s also much more difficult to buy specific ingredients, like vegetarian pate or soy milk.

Are you one of those Morrissey-style people who thinks meat is murder?

I’m not sure I speak the same language as Morrissey does, although I might agree with him on some points.

Morrissey’s field is public space, mine is the kitchen, so we use different methods to promote vegetarianism – he shocks the public with extreme and radical statements, while I work with meat-free products to extract the best taste. Both ways serve the same purpose.

What is the secret to a healthy diet?

For me the key is seasonal, local and unprocessed food.

To do so the best way is to follow the different seasons – in winter that means digging into root veggies and grains; in spring grabbing fresh leaves and herbs; in summer picking the ripest fruits and vegetables; and in the autumn once again looking into roots and bulbs. Easy, right?

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY ALEKSANDRA PAVONI

Where did your vegetarian path begin?

The tipping point was stealing my classmate’s lunch when I was 16! I was a picky teenager who hated steak, kiełbasa and even my grandmother’s schabowy. That lunch turned out to be the first thing I liked so much. I started asking my classmate about being vegetarian and immediately understood that this was my future. When I came home I announced, “mum, dad, I’m vegetarian.” That was a relief and the beginning of the greatest adventure of my life.

Aubergine Caviar 1 big aubergine 3-4 tbsp olive oil 2-3 tbsp lemon juice 3 tbsp chopped parsley 2 tbsp chopped dill 1 big garlic clove ¼ small onion • Preheat the oven to 200°C. Wrap the aubergine in aluminum foil and bake for 25-35 minutes.

• Cool baked aubergine for few minutes, cut the stalk and very finely chop. Mix with other ingredients, let it cool for at least 3 hours. Serve with good bread.

GOING GREEN The Perfect Falafel 00g 3 1 2 2

1 ½ ½ ½ ½ ½ 1

dry chickpeas small onion garlic cloves tbsp chopped parsley tbsp chopped coriander tsp ground cumin tsp ground coriander tsp ground cardamon tsp ground cinnamon tsp ground chili tsp baking soda tsp salt good quality frying oil

• Day before cooking pour the chickpeas into a large bowl and cover them with about 3 inches of cold water. Soak overnight.

Next day drain and rinse chickpeas well. Grind chickpeas, onion and garlic in a meat grinder, then mix with all spices, soda and 1 or 2 tablespoons of water. Cover and let it cool for 1 hour.

• Fill a skillet with oil to a depth of 3-5cm. Heat the oil slowly over medium heat, meanwhile form falafel mixture into small balls or patties: use a falafel scoop or your hands. Make sure that the balls are well shaped.

• Fry each falafel 2 minutes each side, then rotate and fry another 2 minutes. They should be golden brown and crisp. Fry all falafels in the same way: it should be enough for 2 or 3 batches. Let them drain on a paper towel, serve immediately with hummus, fresh veggies and good pita bread.

You wonder if they did it on purpose: opening right next to Meat Love. Whether that’s the case or not, by doing so W Gruncie Rzeczy (ul. Hoża 62) remind me of a bible basher standing outside a screening of The Exorcist.

“Don’t do it,” they seem to say, “take the virtuous path instead.” There is, however, nothing sanctimonious about their food. I’m a meat eater by nature. My stand, when it comes to food, is pretty straight forward: if it bleeds and makes noises then it’s welcome to my oven. W Gruncie Rzeczy haven’t changed that, but they’ve certainly come close. As the polar opposite of Meat Love next door, this vegetarian restaurant reinvents a lifestyle I’m still wary of. I had expected hipsters and tofu, rabbit food and idiots. Most of all, I expected to leave hungry. This didn’t happen. Instead, when I think of W Gruncie Rzeczy, I think of my tomato soup starter: lush and deep. I think of my main course - delicate pierogi with onions: the best I’ve ever had. Most of all, I think of my dessert.

A slice of chocolate cake so heavenly it felt almost dreamlike. A confirmed and committed meat eater I certainly am – but WGR present a brilliant case for a life less bloody.

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WE MEAT AGAIN

The Insider grills Aleksander Baron – proprietor and head chef at Solec 44 – on the meat industry. BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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“I want to eat animals that

have seen the sky, that have seen the grass.”

Aleksander Baron is head chef and owner of Solec 44, an eclectic meeting point that refuses to be defined: hangout, eatery and social hub, it’s become emblematic of the Powiśle style. Catch him at Solec 44, ul. Solec 44, www.solec.waw.pl

WI: You’re known for your love of meat. Has it always been that way?

AB: It all started in Scotland. I worked there for four years and fell in love with the country and its food. Before, I didn’t even see the difference between chicken and beef. It’s the best place I’ve eaten to be honest – I loved the lamb, and the Scottish Black Angus. The lessons I learned when I started working as a chef were very altruistic – that you can’t make something good out of something that’s crap, and as such the basis of all good cooking is good ingredients. So when I returned to Poland I asked myself where our own good produce was. Just two percent of our cow population was for meat, the rest were milking cows – which are fine for goulash but not much else. And it wasn’t just beef – I asked, where are our chickens, hens, geese?

So the produce was bad in Poland?

We’ve always had fantastic goose, great duck – but it was going straight for export to places like Germany. Instead we were getting lamb from places like New Zealand, our beef from Argentina – those are great, but they were crossing the world before ending up on our tables. I wanted to serve good Polish produce, so I started looking around, using markets etc. A lot of chefs were using cheap, low quality, wholesale meat, but my search led me to Grzegorz at Polna Market: nowadays he’s become something of a celebrity butcher!

You’re a crusader for free-range produce…

I believe there’s the right ‘energy’ in free range. I don’t want to eat unhappy animals. I want to eat animals that have seen the sky, that have seen the grass. I don’t touch mass-produced meat, it’s ugly. And I also believe in not wasting an animal. I’m big on nose-to-tail cooking; offal is my specialty.

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Do you have a favorite meat, a favorite cut?

I love all animals and I love all parts of them. You will not find more interesting flavors or textures than in the cheeks – it’s such a gentle meat. Ears are also interesting, so too sweetbread and mountain oysters. One thing I never serve is fillet steak, instead I want to teach people about other parts of the cow. Most people haven’t heard of things like buffet steak or white spider.

You sound like you’ll eat and cook anything. What’s the strangest thing you’ve eaten?

Rat. I was in China and there was a guy cooking rats up at a street stall and I thought why not. And you know what, it was nice. The meat was tender, it had a full flavor. Of course, I’d never serve that here as cooking rats isn’t part of Polish culture. If ever you found someone serving that here it’d just be for shock factor. But I have to try everything once. Thinking about it, the only meat I wouldn’t touch is human!

What do you think of vegetarians?

I respect them, I understand them. They’ve thought through their actions and made a conscious choice, which is a positive thing. Provided they’re not the sort of people who try and change me then I don’t have any problem with them.

Are you positive about where Polish cooking is going…

Under communism we lost our cooking skills – our culinary culture vanished and schabowy was king of the table. After the political changes we fell in love with things like Italian cooking, Turkish etc. We needed twenty years or so to grow up, to mature and start thinking of who we are and the value of Polish cuisine. And to be honest, these times have been great to be a chef – there’s been a revolution!

Veal Tongue with Burned Red Cabbage, Kale, Roast Lemon in an Acacia Honey & Pastis Cream

2 kg veal tongue

3 carrots leek celery root

4 onions head of garlic thyme, bay leaves, allspice, cloves few red cabbage leaves quarter of kale lemon

1 tbsp Acacia honey

2 tbsp melted butter 100ml cream 20ml pastis • Cover all the ingredients with water in a pot and bring to boil.

Simmer for 3 to 4hrs. Peel tongues. Cut them in thin slices and fry on butter. Soft inside and little bit crispy on outside.

• Cut lemon into slices, place on tray and pour honey. Roast in oven at 180°C till brown.

• Take whole cabbage leaves and grease with butter. Spice them with pepper, ginger, nutmeg, cardamom and salt. Roast briefly at 220°C. • Fry kale on butter – you can use same pan after frying tongues.

• Whip the cream with a touch of salt; add Pastis when cream is whipped. Place cabbage leaves on a plate, then kale, tongues, lemon and, at the last moment, cream.

Bone Marrow with Oat and Pepper Crumble

8 bone marrows – ask butcher to cut the bones lengthwise

50g butter

50g beef lard 150g flour

25g muscovado sugar

50g oat meal

1 tbsp of fresh thyme sprigs

1 tsp of freshly ground black pepper touch of salt Bunch of fresh chopped parsley • Mix all ingredients for crumble, bake on a flat tray at 180°C for 12 to 16 minutes.

• Roast bone marrow for 15 minutes at 180°C. • Sprinkle crumble and chopped parsley on roasted bones.

• Then serve with a quality, cold potato vodka!

A PLACE TO MEAT

It was, says owner Kamil PrandotaPrandecki, inspired by the artisan sandwich stops of New York and London. But make no mistake, Meat Love (Hoża 62) is not a simple cut-and-paste job. And that’s something you sense on entering, through a clattering door and down a steep set of steps. In the past, you could have described Meat Love as almost Middle Earth in spirit: all woodcutter crates and tight little spaces.

Now though, they’ve knocked a wall through next door, opening up the venue considerably. Why did they do this? They had to. It was simply too popular to continue as a snug little cave. In the past premium meat meant premium prices. Meat Love, however, have introduced top quality animals, followed a long-cooking process, and then stuck the results between fragrant, fresh baguettes. The quality is astonishing and the prices ever moderate. Forget the cardboard ingredients of Subway, instead enjoy blush-colored roast beef, sticky pulled pork and a range of seasonal options that include waffles with candied bacon. Conceived out of organic, free-range materials, what you find at Meat Love is as nature intended. As they say themselves, “the first art in the world was the art of meat.” And here, meat really is art.

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FOODIE NEWS A collaboration between two of Warsaw’s best known restaurant blogs (restaurantica.pl and froblog.pl), Warsaw Foodie has emerged as the No. 1 site for local food related stories. Featuring all the latest from the foodie frontline, the bilingual Warsaw Foodie promises the hottest news on what’s trending on the restaurant radar. For more info, check: www.warsawfoodie.pl/en

A Touch of France

Frenchman Alain Budzyk is behind Le Bistro Rozbrat (Rozbrat 44), a typically Gallic bistro that also touts a French head chef. On the menu are dishes such as pork cheeks in red wine, foie gras, rilletes, and Parisian-style beef tartar.

The wine list was sourced using Alain’s French vineyard contacts. A six course tasting menu (zł. 120) is available from 7 p.m. to 11 p.m.

A Green Bear

After several months of waiting Central Park Warsaw (Belwederska 13) finally opened its doors in January – with all windows facing Morskie Oko park, CPW features a great design and a European-slanted menu. In their own words, the dishes are ‘comfort food made using quality ingredients’. Amongst others, that includes beef carpaccio, chicken liver pate with wine jelly and tiger prawns with garlic. Open from breakfast onwards.

New Arrival: Przekąski u Romana Cult bar tender Roman Modzelewski has returned to action! Best remembered for his stint at Przekąski Zakąski, the shot bar which closed late last year, Modzelewski has struck out on his own with Przekąski u Romana (Ludna 2). Open 24/7, aside from the expected shots and beers, the menu is dominated by zł. 9 snacks such as beef tartar, potato salad and Warsaw-style cottage cheese. Also, check out the two course lunch menu for zł. 16.

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Set in the Center for Entrepreneurship, Kafe Zielony Niedźwiedź (Smolna 4) is the work of Zbigniew Kmieć, previously responsible for the gourmet online delicatessen Black Caviar. Open from 8 a.m., the ‘Green Bear’ prides itself on simple Polish cuisine made using fresh, local ingredients.

The menu changes frequently to reflect the commitment to natural produce: in the first few days of business that meant such delicacies as chicken soup with pigeon dumplings and beetroot cream or pancakes with apples.

New Style Polish

Polonez (Poznańska 44) is a modern Polish bar/cafe that proudly stresses the absence of thatched decorations, pork chops and sheepskins. Instead, this trendy spot prides itself on unusual Polish produce, including Koryciński cheese with rowanberries, not to mention a list of drinks that include birch juice, cocktails made using cabbage and juniper, regional beers and spirits and Łącka plum brandy.

PHOTOGRAPHS FACEBOO

New Arrival: Central Park

Reviews: Bistro Pigalle 31 / Wootwórnia 46 Plus:

* 11 updates

RESTAURANTS

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

AFRICAN 32 / AMERICAN 32 / ASIAN 32 / BALKAN & RUSSIAN 35 / BRITISH 35 / BURGERS 36 / CHEAP EATS 37 / COOKING SCHOOLS 60 / CUBAN 38 / FOOD SHOPS 56 / FRENCH 38 / GERMAN 39 /GREEK & TURKISH 39 / HOME DELIVERY 34 / INDIAN 39 / INTERNATIONAL 41 / ITALIAN 48 /JAPANESE & SUSHI 50 / LATIN 51 / MIDDLE EASTERN 54 / POLISH 54 / SCANDINAVIAN 56 / WHOLE FOODS60

Insider’s Pick

I’

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

ve seen plenty of changes over the years here, yet few fascinate me as much as the transformation of Poznańska. My memories – foggy as they are – are of a dark side alley of tumbledown tenements steeped in deep shadow. In winter, with mist rising from the manholes and snow drifts piled up, you had the feeling of treading through some forgotten film set.

Of course, it’s all changed now. There’s a vibrancy in the air. Cult venues like Kraken and Kaskrut have all contributed, as have H15 – Warsaw’s best hotel. But you sense this is just the beginning. Already this year we’ve seen two high profile openings on Poznańska: the wonderful Polonez and the highly awaited Pigalle.

Pigalle, it must be said, looks magic from the outside. Set on the corner of a grand pre-war building, it casts a warm, beckoning glow on the streets outside. Entering, I find a beautiful room of raw brickwork and high ceilings; chefs, resplendent in tall, white toques, clatter and clamor around an

open kitchen, creating a sense of culinary expectation.

To my disappointment, I am directed up some steps to a more formal dining room.

There are buckets of Moet, and a sign that quips, “Save Water, Drink Champagne.”

For all this, I note that the cream colored banquette is blotched with black smudges.

The wall, too, bears evidence of scuff marks.

The waiter reappears, and tells me they’ve been open one day, to which I respond, “Yes, I can tell.”

There is no menu. Looking at his notepad, the waiter reels off a list of available food. At times I have trouble remembering

my name, let alone making on-the-spot decisions for dishes dictated in a rush, so I play it safe and go with his recommendations – scallops for starters and steak for my main. Only when he leaves do I suddenly realize I have no bloody clue how much this all costs (as it transpires, there is a blackboard menu lurking downstairs). I have a momentary panic attack: what if my bank card gives out on me? Am I carrying enough cash? A grim vision of spending the night washing dishes enters my head.

But these gloomy thoughts disappear with the arrival of the scallops. There are only four, but they are plump in size and delectable in taste. For the time being I’m as happy as I’ve been in any Warsaw venue. What happens next sets me back to square one. I’ve ordered the steak medium rare, but it arrives red throughout. I’ve read too many cautionary tales involving sending steaks back, so I persist with what’s in front. Chewing is a chore, and the texture almost gel-like. For the first time ever my plate is unfinished.

You don’t get to be my size by sidestepping dessert, but that’s exactly what I do. The whole steak episode has left me defeated and deflated. Other irritants have also emerged: I’ve realized the same song has been on loop ever since I entered.

Each time it reprises I clench my fists ever tighter. The arrival of the bill brings mixed news: I have bought enough cash, but literally only just. The final score is something around zł. 150 for two courses and a glass of wine.

Pigalle, I feel, has been opened in a rush.

For sure there are positives (I’ve since heard the oysters are magnificent), but my overall impression is of a place that isn’t ready.

“What did you expect,” questioned a friend, “visiting so soon.” Honestly, that’s no excuse. Charge fine dining prices and you expect fine dining, Day One or not. (AW) Bistro Pigalle ul. Hoża 51 (enter from Poznańska) facebook.com/BistroPigalle

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RESTAURANTS KEY $ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

Best of Warsaw Award Winner 2013

AFRICAN Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, open 10:00-23:00, www.cafebaobab.pl Café

Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $ La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, open Mon 13:00-24:00; Tue-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.lamama.eu Sprayed with racist graffiti over summer, it was heartening to see the local community rally round in support of the owners. As for food, that’s an authentic rundown of dishes that include baked cow back and gizzard. Unfortunately, it’s just not to our taste: the goat stew felt like one big mistake. Judging by the repeat custom, not everyone shares our view. $$

AMERICAN Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel.

22 630 5119, open 12:00-24:00, www. champions.pl Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, www.hardrockcafe. pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri & Sat 11:0023:00; Sun 11:00-22:00, www.sioux.com. pl You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef. Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, open Mon-Thu 12:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www. someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that

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ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 22 653 8360, open Mon & Tue 11:00-23:00; Wed-Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.tgifridays.pl/ warszawa The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, and even the burgers can’t compare to Warsaw’s armada of burgeries. And the interiors are just as you’d remember: crass, vulgar and stuck in the 90s. Why do people bother? $$

ASIAN Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120, open 9:00-21:00 One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food.

Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $

Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:3023:00; Sun 12:30-22:00, www.cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes to an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.chinagarden.pl Bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts. Goose jaws.

Stewed bull’s penis with radish. Ah, these are meals for the brave. Allegedly the first Jiangsu restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes here are indeed unique. The China Garden isn’t the Imperial Palace, but the décor of straightbacked chairs and densely constructed wood tables casts an aura of formality. No lounging about here; serious eating is afoot! On the whole the dishes are delicate and delicious, and there are more cautious choices.

Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 447 2424, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-22:00 A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem

LOVE STORY

AMOR Y AMARO

With the spirit of cupid in the air, the Insider speaks to Agnieszka Amaro, wife of chef Wojciech Modest Amaro, and the brain behind their award winning restaurant Atelier…

How did you two get together?

I went to dinner with a friend from Corsica and Modest was working in the restaurant as chef. My friend owns a Michelin restaurant, so I always say Modest and I have had stars with us from the beginning! It was love at first sight – I was so smitten with him I don’t even remember the food.

How did your first date go…

The next day he left Warsaw for a week but we were calling each other the whole time. We decided on the phone to spend the rest of our lives together! Within five days I went to visit him and we’ve been together ever since!

How did Wojciech propose?

With perfect timing! I wanted to tell him I was pregnant but he proposed before I was able to do so. He calls me ‘my little flower’, so the ring was flower shaped.

What’s the way to a woman’s heart, and is there a gift that stands out as particularly romantic?

The only way to a woman’s heart is through true love. As for the most romantic gift – well, Modest played me an Ive Mendes song: “look at the stars, look how they shine for you.” Next he gave me a certificate for a real star and said, “you’re my only star!”

You’re both lead high pressure lives. How do you make the relationship work?

We’re lucky to have each other, and it’s great we work together. We also travel everywhere. Even if Modest is away, he’ll always try to come back to sleep at home – we just can’t live separately. We enjoy every moment, and that’s what inspired the name of our menu in Atelier: ‘Moments’.

Atelier won Poland’s first Michelin star last year – tell me more!

Wow, every time I think about that day I’m so happy – and even more so for Modest, for his hard work, passion and dreams. It was his fixation, and nobody except me believed it was possible. On the day we celebrated with the whole team, renting an English bus and driving around Warsaw screaming and laughing. It was the most amazing day of our lives. Of course, we’re waiting for the 2014 announcement, but we’re in the middle of so many other projects like the Forgotten Fields Festival. Modest made history, but that doesn’t mean he’s going to stop.

How is your cooking? And if you were to cook a romantic meal at home, what would you serve?

Over the past few years my knowledge and experience in relation to food has grown enormously. I’ve had the chance to eat in some of the best restaurants in the world, and also discover native cuisines in other countries. My palate has changed, and I’m now keen to try different things and draw inspiration from them in my own cooking. As a mother I cook frequently and my favorite influences are Asian. As for a romantic meal, I’d prepare a cod marinated in miso with banana leaves.

What’s Warsaw’s most romantic street?

I was born here, and I really love my city. There’s so many fantastic places, but nothing beats the street Atelier is on: ul. Agrykola. It’s surrounded with trees from the Royal Park, and shrouded with the kind of mists you see in Sherlock Holmes. It’s the only street with gas lanterns, and they’re lit each night by a lamplighter just like in 1856. The warm glow creates such a special, timeless atmosphere… facebook.com/warsawinsider

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RESTAURANTS Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option.

Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0000, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland.

Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24hr pizza delivery options also available.

Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl.

Deliver to over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers.

Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory.

Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl.

Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts).

Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus. Restaurants covered by this mob Home of as theRain Thursday inc. players such

by India Curry, Curry Club Osteria, Warsaw Papaya and Sakana.

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filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ InAzia (E5) ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Hotel), tel. 22 450 6705, open Mon-Sat 17:00-23:00; Sun 12:30-16:30, www.restauracja-inazia.pl The Sheraton has a rich history of serving some of Warsaw’s best Asian food, with chef Marcin Sasin creating a menu that draws on influences as diverse as Indonesian, Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese. Popular with Thai diplomats and hushed hotel guests, the experience is worth the quite considerable splurge. $$$ Natara Old Town (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501, open 11:00-23:00, www.natara.pl Set inside the Old Town walls, the setting is magical – from the outside. Inside, it’s all dowdy brown and plastic plants. Service, if you can call it that, teases patience to the max, but the food is fantastic. Everything we’ve tried on the menu goes right, not least the fiery red curry duck.

Highly recommended. $$ Naam Thai ul. Saska 16, tel. 505 110 100, open 12:0023:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 Not to be defeated by the closure of Sunanta, Bangkok chef Chanunkan Dunagkumma makes a quick return to this cookery lark with Naam Thai. While spices have been blanded down to fit the local palette, it’s been a promising start. Look for the roast duck soup – made according to a closely guarded secret family recipe. $$ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, open 12:0024:00, www.papaya.waw.pl A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya have softened the interiors a little, giving the aesthetics a less rigid look. The menu is a considerable success and includes sushi, kobe beef and a much talked about Peking duck. Our advice, however, is to check out Poland’s best teppanyaki grill. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot (D6) ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750, open 12:00-22:30. shabu-shabu.pl Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were

WARSAW INSIDER | FEBRUARY 2014

served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $ Silk & Spicy (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012, open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-2:00, www.silkandspicy.pl If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” $ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.suparomthaifood.pl Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II al. Wilanowska 309, tel. 22 853 3087, open 10:00-21:00, www.suparomthaifood. pl Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming.

Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, open 12:00-23:00, www.thaithai.pl Sanad Changpuen, a man widely credited with popularizing Thai food in Poland, returns to Warsaw with predictable results: the food is a hit. And what a space this acclaimed chef has been blessed with: gold vaulted ceilings lend a muted glow to a largely black-on-black space; from the walls, serene looking Buddha’s peer on diners down below. At once, the soothing interiors ease guests into a state of inner peace while Sanad does the rest. $$ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307, open Mon-Fri 9:30-21:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-21:30 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00,

www.whythai.pl A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the levels one expects. $$ Yummy (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 797 830 639, open 10:00-21:00, www.restauracjayummy.pl The Insider’s favorite budget Asian eatery, even if the empty tables suggest dark forces at work in the kitchen. Modern and minimal, the lemon chicken is delicious and the pad thai is a sure bet. $

BALKAN & RUSSIAN Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.banjaluka.pl Numerous meaty dishes from Serbia and Croatia are served inside Banja Luka, a Warsaw stalwart who’ve moved with the times and... moved. The new, central location is as pleasing as the last, with lots of

clunky timber and imported ceramics. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366, open 12:00-22:00, www.babooshka.pl Looking intimate and woodsy Babooshka serves up dollops of simple Russian food to a budget conscious crowd. The bacon and tomato scented solyanka soup is a thick broth best suited for Warsaw’s long, windy nights. $ Gemo ul. Minska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 22 468 1876, open 12:00-22:00, www.gemorestaurant.pl At last, a Georgian restaurant without gnarled furniture and peasant fabrics. Located inside Soho Factory, Gemo has a severe, industrial style accented further by steel lights and exposed pipework. The menu is modestly priced, yet includes several dishes to return for: the szaszlyk, for one. $ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, open Mon 11:30-20:00; Tue & Wed 11:30-21:00; Thu & Fri 11:30-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00;

Sun 12:00-21:00, www.umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices that all bank accounts can support. On a grim sleety day, chef Gabor’s signature goulash makes winter not just manageable, but welcome! $

BRITISH The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsummer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open

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RESTAURANTS Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest, www.legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

BURGERS Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; 13:00-21:00, www.barnburger.pl What finished summer 2012 as Warsaw’s most talked about burger has seen its stock nosedive somewhat.

Even so, you’ll still find several people out there who remain fiercely loyal to their quite considerable offer. On our part, the Insider remains partial to the occasional Muppet Burger: a messy affair loaded with salsa, jalapenos and BBQ sauce. By the time you’ve finished with it, the wooden board it’s served on will look like Jack the Ripper has just passed through town. $

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Bobby Burger (C4) ul. E. Plater 47, tel. 785 833 603, pen 12:00-22:00, bobbyburger.pl Perplexingly popular with hipsters who wouldn’t know a good burger if their skinny jeans depended on it. Now sporting a new location (the old one on Żurawia also continues, alas), this bottom feeder continues to prove popularity isn’t always a measure of quality. $ Brooklyn Burgers & Wings (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 270 2144, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 There are those out there who claim Brooklyn to be the best burger in Warsaw – and we’re not talking about hipsters on longboards, but American ex-pats who really know the score. And yes, what you get with Brooklyn is something very good indeed – maybe not the best, but in a city with quite probably 70-odd burger bars, it’s certainly Top 3. That’s largely thanks to Alan, a young American chef wholly dedicated to his job. Homemade sauces, wings, ribs, strips and beer (inc.

Sam Adams!). $

WARSAW INSIDER | FEBRUARY 2014

Burger Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Wed 7:30-23:00; Thu-Fri 7:30-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-20:00, www.burgerkitchen.pl Opened at a time when most burgeristas had already sworn allegiance to their favorite, the opening of Burger Kitchen surprised everyone. Celebrity chef Tomek Woźniak clocked 64,000 kilometers checking out global street food trends, and his painstaking research is evidenced in Warsaw’s best burgers. Indestructible in architecture, these blighters come in brioche-style buns and with own-brand ketchup that utilizes 24 different Italian tomatoes. It’s the undisputed No. 1 in town, and also notable for steaks, shakes and brilliant breakfasts. $ Bydło i Powidło (A5) ul. Kolejowa 47, tel. 22 400 48 44, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00 Set in a modern glass prism, here’s a place that’s

realized you can’t get away with just serving burgers anymore (though here, they’re very good indeed). Unfortunately, the steak part of the menu just isn’t there yet. Ćwierćfunciak (C1) ul. Andersa 30, tel. 799 328 822, open Mon-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 Hidden in the gastronomic wasteland of Muranów, the impossibly named Ćwierćfunciak impresses with slathers of gloriously fresh ingredients, not to mention complimentary sides of hand-cut chips.

Ranked in the Insider’s Top 5 best burger joints, that the resident beers are sourced from Pinta earns this friendly local a few extra points. $ Między Bułkami (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 23, tel. 22 126 0159, open 11:00-23:00 You want to yell, “stop opening burger joints!” But ‘Between the Buns’ is one of those additions we really don’t mind: there’s nothing original about the menu, nor the presentation, but the quality is a solid 8/10. $

Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Sat 12:0020:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.warburger.pl Forget Year of the Dragon, 2012 was Year of the Burger – or more specifically, Year of the WarBurger. Edging the competition (at least till Burger Kitchen came along), this diminutive little cabin wins eulogies across the board for base-level prices, super friendly service and pimped up burgers that use gourmet ingredients. $ Queen Burger (E5) ul. Hoża 1a, tel. 733 142 492, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00 A new face over summer, and one joyously received

by Warsaw’s burger aficionados. The look screams US roadside diner, but inside it’s all young city style mavens. The choice extends to house specialties such as gringo, teriyaki and femiburger, though our advice to meatheads is to simply stick to the classic cheeseburger: it’s a towering stack of ultra-satisfaction.

We’ve experienced nightmarish waiting times, but like WarBurger, that’s just added proof they’re doing something very right. $

CHEAP EATS Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580, open daily 11:00-21:00. ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel. 22 898 3001, open daily 11:0022:00 So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $

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Diner 55 (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 Set in a dark, industrial basement, they’ve clearly got the younger 20s crowd in mind – from the speakers hip hop thugs brag about putting caps in your “mother f@ck!ng n!gga’ ass.” But the menu, an alliance between Pan Burger, Rico’s Tacos and Mr. Pancake is fabulous, with the tacos our major highlight. $ Fabryka Frytek (D4) ul. Złota 3, tel. 505 671 334, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. ul. Waryńskiego 9, tel. 505

CARPACCIO ul. Nowy Świat 36, 22 692 47 26

Classic Italian cuisine: the delicious, honest tastes of a true trattoria

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RESTAURANTS 671 334, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.fabrykafrytek.pl Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $ Groole (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:0020:00, www.groole.pl You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry. A revelation! $ Justyna’s Secret Recipes (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 138, open Mon-Fri 7:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00. www. jsecretrecipes.com We’re told Justyna was inspired by the Pret-a-Manger chain. Whatever the case, you just can’t fault her sandwiches which are fixed using proper imported bacon, organic sundries, and the freshest of bread.

The delivery service is highly recommended for desk-bound officebots. $ Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753, open Sun-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:0023:00, www.manekin.pl Originally founded in Toruń, this pancake house chain is a national phenomenon – at times, queues for a table snake outside. The menu touts dozens of pancake options served in sweet

and savory form (there’s even a spaghetti version…), and most agree they’re worth the ridiculous waiting times - waits in excess of 20 minutes (and considerably more) are the norm. $ Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.meatlove.pl An eco-minded sandwich stop, this intimate basement has a smart wooden look and friendly staff notable for their daring body art. The home-baked baguettes are the star, and come with a range of organic ingredients complimented with thick cuts of top quality animal. Roast beef, pulled pork and porchetta are just a few of your options. $

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Mr Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, open MonSat 11:00-10:00; Sun 12:00-8:00, www.mrpancake.pl You’re just going to love their pancakes, with their fun, wacky look and creative toppings (M&Ms, funny faces traced with icing sugar, and lots of chocolatey stuff).

They’re the sort of pancakes you’d get if Bart Simpson got stoned and decided to make some food – brilliant. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, open 11:00-20:00, www.chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike

being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia.

And that’s a good thing! $ Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-19:00 Imported German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh buns to go with them.

The currywurst is just like the one you had at Berlin Hauptbahnhof. $

CUBAN El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994. Open Mon-Thu 12:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:30-1:00; Sun 12:30-22:30 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

FRENCH L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, open 10:00-last guest, www.larc.pl French food just hasn’t broken through in Warsaw in the way other European cuisines have.

So Francophiles are indebted, somewhat, to the existence of L’Arc, a place of considered elegance, subtle decorations and monochrome colors. They’re especially noted for

Le Cedre 84

Le Cedre 61

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99 lecedre84@lecedre.pl

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66 lecedre@lecedre.pl

Taste the Exotic

www.lecedre.pl

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WARSAW INSIDER | FEBRUARY 2014

their obsessive attitude to seafood (pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing), inventive mains and desserts that are heaven. $$

reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

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GREEK & TURKISH

Le Bistro Rozbrat ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 22 881 7808, open 12:0024:00. The signs suggest that Powiśle is set to mature in 2014, making the transition from hipster haunt to restaurant breeding ground – and here is Exhibit A. Owned by Frenchman Alain Budzyk, the interiors are contemporary casual, with talking points saved for the food.

The concise menu has token nods to Spanish cuisine, as well as a steak bavette that’s being raved about on the blogs. $$

GERMAN Adler (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00, www.adlerrestauracja.pl Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in

Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, open 12:00-last guest, www.paros-restauracja.pl Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look.

Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages.

The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply

treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milefi dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 On the design front it’s almost a straight plagiary of Charlotte: white brickwork, blackboard, communal table. So the surprise here is the food – Turkish. And not just any Turkish, but brilliant Turkish!

It’s nothing fancy, but there’s a real honest quality to the moussaka and lamb and beef in tomato sauce. And the desserts are a real spoiler as well. $

INDIAN Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, open 11:00-23:00, www.bombajmasala.pl Ringed by offices and five star hotels, Bombaj Masala thrives in its role as an upmarket Indian restaurant – and yes, it’s nice to see

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REstauRants RESTAURANTS Indian restaurants moving away from the santa’s Grotto grotto look. For for all that, most agree Santa’s bombaj is over-priced and over-rated. $$ Bombaj

their vindaloo – a macho dish that provokes be warned: no spontaneous combustion. Be beer. $

as the burning euphoria subsides, you’re fire. As left basking in that blissful, euphoric glow all hotheads will know. $

chmielarnia (B4) Chmielarnia ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 11:00not only 24:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl Not chmielarnia house some of the world’s does Chmielarnia nightlife), but also – as the best beers (see Nightlife), shrine by the door may suggest – a very good sure, you’re eating in a dark and restaurant. Sure, loud beer cellar (to us that’s a bonus), but nepalese chef Ram ram knows what he’s the Nepalese and aside from Indian and Nepalese nepalese doing. And staples, there’s a menu tailor-made for the beer swiggers. $

Himalaya Momo Himalaya Momo ul. Ząbkowska 36, tel. 22 297 2100, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00there’s 21:30, www.himalayamomo.com There’s the size only four tables here, so don’t linger. The means several staples have been cut from the menu, among them naan bread – there’s no space for a tandoor oven, you see. What kind of Indian restaurant forgets a tandoor oven? In this case, a very good one. What tibetan / Indian menu is does appear on the Tibetan usually delicious. $

Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 22 428 44 54, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-21:00, www.mandalaklub. com or www.indiaexpress.pl Keen, supersize portions and an efficient home delivery service (indiaexpress.pl) have made this not dissimilar lot something of a bookmark. Not from the curries you may have survived on as a student, Mandala are cheap and decent, though several rungs below the top curries in town – it’s a ok means to an end. $

curry House Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774 & al.

Ken 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open daily 11:00a primitive design 22:00, curryhouse.com.pl A (port-a-loo toilet, barred windows) and curry far-flung location have not hindered Curry house one bit. It’s a legend, not least for House

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Madras 536 335 333, Al. Solidarnosci 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open 11:00-22:00. While it looks cheap, cramped and rather claustrophobic Madras no. 1 source of has been installed as our No. there are curry since opening late last year. There softer options available, but for a proper winter tickler then look no further than the vindaloo: even your hair will feel like it’s on

Mr india Mr India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. opened by the creators of Curry curry mrindia.pl Opened house, Mr India touts the same menu but House, an interior that’s a substantial upgrade to its as with the original, the spicy older sibling. As dishes could floor an elephant. It’s become a brits shipwrecked in Ursynów. $$ lifeline for Brits

From12:00-23:00 12:00-23:00 (kitchen), From (kitchen), andon onFri Friand andSat Sat 1 a.m.! and tilltill 1 a.m.!

Baropen opentill tillthe thelast last man drops!

Bar man drops!

TraditionalIndian Indiancuisine, cuisine, contemporary Traditional contemporary cocktailsand anda range a range of sheesha pipes! cocktails of sheesha pipes!

Nightclubdownstairs! downstairs!

Nightclub

Now Świat58!!!

58!!!

NOWopeN OPENoN ON Nowy NOWY ŚWIAT

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WarsaW InsIder WARSAW INSIDER | FEBRUARY FEBRUARY 2014

Namaste India (D1 & D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, tel. 22 635 7766, open 10:30-23:00, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 357 0939, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:30; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.namasteindia.pl A ferociously loyal customer base proclaim this as their favorite curry in town. Highly recommended, find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $ Parivar al. Waszyngtona 75, tel. 22 393 4104, open 11:00-22:00, www.parivar.pl The squid sizzler has the taste and texture of that chewing gum you found stuck under the bus seat, while the vindaloo is cunningly disguised as a bowl of red water with some chicken floating about. “I get better curry on the oil rigs,” opined the Insider’s official balti boy.

For all of that, the biggest disappointment is Parivar’s apparent success. $ Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, open

Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.rain.pl Ray Bridgeford, the former owner of the legendary Sense, is the man behind the miraculous resuscitation of India Curry. Fresh contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy aesthetic, but it’s the menu that’s become the talk of the expats. Our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in ANY Indian restaurant, but that’s not all… lending this place serious credentials as Warsaw’s best Indian are a feisty vindaloo and initiatives such as the Thursday night Rain Curry Club (zł. 69 for curry, breads and starters), and their zł. 25 Tiffins lunch deals. $$ Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 622 9410, open 12:00-23:00, www.saffronspices.pl Set on two floors Saffron has a menu more limited than most, though they have at least finally introduced alcohol. The murgh makhani is inconsistent, and the chicken, in the words of one reader, ‘strange’. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22 825 2375,

open 12:00-22:30, www.tandoor.com.pl The legendary Tandoor Palace is dead! From the ashes, rises Tandoor. It’s not just the interiors that have been modernized, but the menu – start with the pea and basil soup, a thick warming broth, before moving to the chicken sholay kebab… coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table. For mains, the murgh duo is equally artistic and even better in taste. Traditionalists will approve as well: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable chicken tikka butter masala. $$

INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 4/Czwarte ul. Piaseczynska 71, tel. 22 100 3139, open daily 9:00-21:00, www.4czwarte. pl 4/Czwarte sits smack in the middle of Warszawianka’s 29 tennis courts. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, it can be rather motivating to eat and drink to the plop of the tennis balls. Chef Kinga Araucz brings a fresh eye to food in Warsaw, and her modern menu combines well with the pleasantly congenial

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RESTAURANTS atmosphere and sharp interior. $$ 12 Stolików ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 795 373 815, open 9:00-23:00 Affecting a boutique style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that promotes cooking as a form of theater.

The menu is chalked on a board, and while the aglio e olio was overcooked, the big guns came out for the steak: a very decent piece of meat. Enjoyable enough, though nothing particularly memorable. $$ Akademia (E9) ul. Różana 2, tel. 22 828 99 11, open MonSat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www. restauracjaakademia.pl The most high profile launch of 2013, with whole sections of the street blocked off to keep the beautiful people from being molested by the public. But while the prevailing attitude is snooty, chef Grzegorz Nowakowski has done an excellent job on an artfully simple menu that fits seamlessly with the white-on-white interiors. $$

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Bel 8 ul. Sułkowicka 2/4, tel. 883 648 888, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. A sizeable restaurant that shows Warsaw’s appetite for the finer things is growing at a pace. The design was inspired by modern Milan, and it shows in fancy interiors that make use of hardwood floors, transparent backed chairs and beautiful lighting. The menu is ‘global’ with Italian accents, and numbers dishes like filet mignon marinated in 12 year old Balsamic. Expect to be hearing a lot about them in the coming year. $$$

Bistecca Bistro ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.bistecca.pl It happened so suddenly. Warsaw went from meat loser to meat lover in the space of a year. Bistecca, opened over 2 years ago, was one of the early pioneers, and to date remains one of the best.

That people travel from well outside Wilanów to sample its delights speaks volumes. Pride of place goes to their signature Bistecca steak: a one kilo T-Bone shaped joint with strip steak on one side and tenderloin on the other. For the thrill of DIY tableside cooking, order one of their ‘various kinds of meat grilled over volcanic stone’.

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Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3223, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00- 18:00, www.boathouse.pl For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of parkland. The menu is Mediterranean in style with strong hints of Italian, though how they fare having lost their French chef Luc remains to be seen. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.brasseriewarszawska. pl A posh looking bistro whose credentials are supported by crisp shirted staff, gleaming surfaces and zinc mirrors. The Fine de Claire oysters on a bed of fennel are outstanding, but what catches the attention of the ex-pats is the English influence of an owner who once managed The Grill at London’s Dorchester Hotel. The Friday fish & chips win emphatic approval. The Sunday roast lacks gravy and consistency, and you may find yourself asking for extra red wine sauce to moisten the Yorkshire Pudding – but it’s worth the chance; when everything goes right it’s utterly victorious. $$$ Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel 532 749 160, open Mon-Thu 11:30-2:00; Sat 15:00-5:00, www. bufetcentralny.pl With white tiles, an artsy carpentered bar and draftsman desk lamps hanging from the walls, Bufet certainly gets points for design. The Hungarian fish soup is delicious, while the chocolate soufflé is airy, gooey and all things nice. But choice diminishes quickly – get there early to order the ribs. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www. butcheryandwine.pl Has it really been that long? Opened to wide acclaim in 2011, Butchery & Wine stirred Warsaw’s appetite for quality red meat. Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach and the wine list suited to the meat fest in front. Many hail this as Poland’s best steak, and you can definitely see where they’re coming from. $$

WARSAW INSIDER | FEBRUARY 2014

By The Way Bottega Kulinarna (E3) ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. 22 692 7239, open 12:00-22:00,

www.bytheway.com.pl Everything here looks fantastic – the pared down interiors with their concrete greys and houndstooth touches, and the food. Oh yes, the food. There’s about five mains to hover on, the highlight being the duck breast. The meringue dessert is heaven, as well. $$ Bydło i Poidło (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 Filled with rawhide and industrial undertones, this grown-up version of Bydło i Powidło (see Burgers), has its accent on more high-end meats: and by that we mean steaks. Hopefully, they’re an improvement on the ones served by their sister – we’ll be visiting soon to see. $$

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Central Park ul. Belwederska 13, tel. 22 400 8048, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00, www.centralparkwarsaw.pl Looking out across Morskie Oko park, this eagerly awaited eatery buys into the trend of natural, quality produce with items such as 30-day-matured Polish Angus, not to mention a range of cheaper, lighter bites that suit all hours of the day. We’re heading there for next issue’s pick, so keep your eyes peeled. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac luxury department store, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct: five course set lunch menus from zł. 50, served between 11:00 and 16:00. Modern designer dining rarely gets better. $$$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, open 12:0024:00, www.derelefant.com A Titanic-sized restaurant with a disorganized menu that appears to have been devised by throwing darts at a cookbook: Mediterranean mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc. But if the menu is blurry, the cooking isn’t: it’s average/ acceptable to very good. The interiors are a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles, and frequently pack out to the rafters with families and other unwieldy groups. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745, open Mon-Fri for Breakfast 6:30-10:00; Sat 6:30-11:00,

BROUGHT TO YOU BY PERŁA

WITH PERŁA IN THE CAPITAL

The winter outside the window triggers the onset of the winter blues. The days are getting shorter and the evenings ever longer… take advantage of it! It’s the perfect time to discover interesting places. We have chosen a few venues where you can have a great time drinking the unique beers from the Lublin region…

P

erła - Lublin Breweries SA is a regional brewer which has found its place in the hearts of many residents of Warsaw. Enjoy our flagship brand Perła Chmielowa, the slightly younger Perła Export, flavoured beers like Perła Summer, Perła Winter and Perła Miodowa (honey flavour) and the traditional Perła Niepasteryzowana. There are also new products which appeared on the market last autumn that are worth mentioning. The first is Perła Koźlak – a dark beer with an exquisite taste that combines delicate sweetness with the bitterness of the hops. Another one is Zwierzyniec Pils: a unique proposition for beer gourmets of classic Pils.

So why not go on a trip around Warsaw in search of interesting places where one can drink Perła? The places you’ll find us will surprise you by their diversity! First up there’s Norma restaurant located on ul. Wierzbowa 9/11.

The thrilling design is filled with large format water colors

by Walton Ford, but the art isn’t just on the wall, it’s on the plates as well! The carefully planned menu is the work of Kuba Korczak, a passionate culinary artist who thrives on exploring flavors. Perła beer is the perfect fit for the place.

Another place worth visiting is Rain by India Curry on ul. Żurawia 22. The Indian cuisine and seafood are a perfect

match with the Pearl of the East - Perła. Whether it’s business or leisure, it’s a top choice for a water pipe and a Perła beer! And how about Latawiec café on Armii Ludowej 12.

It’s a great meeting place that offers a delicious and healthy food during the day, and cultural experiences such as concerts, art openings and film screenings in the evenings.

We love it, and so too Na Lato on Rozbrat. Formerly the HQ of the Polish Social-Democratic party, during the day it’s a superb restaurant, while at night it transforms into a casual hangout that’s brilliantly matched to listening to music with friends. The inspirational menu is the work of chef Michał “Magiel” Myszkiewicz who learned his craft in London. The place, just like Perła, works well in all seasons.

More and more places in Warsaw are offering beers from regional breweries. Perła has earned its popularity due to its special, secret recipe and unique taste. Restaurants try to attract customers not just with a fancy cuisine, but also with magic beverages. We look forward to adding more distributors in future: places that don’t just offer excellent cooking, but our brilliant beers from Lublin as well.

www.perla.pl facebook.com/warsawinsider

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RESTAURANTS 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 12:0016:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00, dinner 18:00-23:00 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don't for one moment assume the offer ends with cows.

Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$ Duchnicka Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, duchnickawinebar. com Michał Budnik, a rising star with a bright future ahead, excels in this loft-style warehouse. His menu includes cappuccino soup, and a totally triumphant rack of lamb. $$ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, open Mon-Fri 7:30-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. grill-co.com Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides.

Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ The Harvest (L12) Domaniewska 34A (Ambassador Office Building), tel. 660 750 600, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri Sat 12:00-last guest, www. theharvest.pl A muted design of charcoal

colors and concrete surfaces sets the scene for an upmarket experience exclusively enjoyed by the suit and tie brigade. Despite the corporate circle jerk, some of the food is bewilderingly good – the filet Rossini is pure luxury. True, you get the idea that chef Robert Trzópek (formerly El Bulli, Noma), has been told, “look bud, no crazy stuff out there,” but the lack of innovation is a minor quibble.

We’ve been told once this newbie settles a bit to expect a more creative tasting menu. $$$ Hoża by Mondovino (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00 Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Jasna 24 (D4) ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 447 24 41, open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0020:00, www.jasna24.pl Slick, modern and loungey in look, Jasna 24 has a creative menu that include the use of deliciously unexpected combinations. Roll up on Wednesday’s if you prefer your dinner served with a slice of live music. $$ Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, open Mon-Sun 12:00-15:00, 17:00-23:00, www. facebook.com/dwichlab Referred to by some

as the “poor man’s Atelier Amaro”, this haunt has a high communal seating plan and a hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food. The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks – sometimes faster. The chef is known for his trial-and-error attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut. Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine. Go there. $$ BEST WAWA 2013 "Casual Design" La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6070, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 7:00-11:00,12:0023:00, www.leregina.com Truly, one of the standout dining rooms of Poland. Many have commented on the Michelin quality of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s restaurant, and you may consider the lack of a star one of the puzzles of the modern world. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and is built for superlatives: the slow-roasted rack of Welsh lamb was one of our highlights of 2013. Find Oszczyk ably supported by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier, and wonderBEST WAWA fully charismatic staff. $$$ 2013 "Chef" Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, open MonSat 12:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-18:00, www. magielcafe.pl Set with gingham tablecloths, antiques and launderette detritus, Magiel is

A fresh taste of Italy in the heart of Poland

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1 | FEBRUARY 2014 44Insider_VP.indd WARSAW INSIDER

UL. Taśmowa 7 TeL: +48 22 356 10 50 warszawa@vapiano.pl

aL. jerozoLimskie 63 (róg z e.PLaTer) TeL: +48 22 852 49 65 warszawa2@vapiano.pl

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24/10/13 12:26 PM

as charming as they come. But don’t let the café part of the name fool you – the cooking here demands attention. Specializing in eco-minded slow food produce, the everrotating menu is fresh, natural and packed with taste. $$ Muu Muu (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 465 1553, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.muumuu.pl The place is sparky, fun and engaging: small in size, décor comprises of soft colors and light woods, not to mention a bar adorned with blackboard slogans such as ‘Eat Meat’ and ‘Love Bacon’. The heart of their act is meat, and steak appears in a variety of its forms: there’s T-Bone, bison, wagyu, etc. If you’re a vegetarian (or for that matter, a cow), run.

New it might be, but there’s a quiet assurance about Muu Muu: the proprietor knows he’s on a good thing, and he very well is. $$ Momu.Gastrobar (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, www.momu.pl Tapas-style portions of experimental-looking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket. A new concept for Warsaw, it’s been a case of so far so good for Momu. $ Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00,

www.nolita.pl A swank center restaurant anchored on the skills of Jacek Grochowina – a young talent who honed his skills at the London Ritz. Looking chic and high end, advance bookings are recommended if you wish to enjoy this top-class experience.

Some of the tastes and sensations are utterly unexpected, with the Insider left speechless after enjoying the tuna tartar (zł.49) and aged beef fillet (zł. 97). The nine-course tasting menu is said to be out-of-this-world, and one of the reasons why some are rating this as Poland’s next Michelin hope. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 "Fine Dining"

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Norma ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 828 0130, open 12:00-23:00, www.restauracjanorma.pl Diners step in to find neutral, natural colors offset by Walton Ford paintings depicting wild, tethered animals, and warm lighting provided by way of bare bulbs wrapped around the rafters. But what of the menu. That’s been conceived by chef Kuba Korczak, a familiar name to slow food enthusiasts. His food is an inventive presentation of natural, local produce, and includes subtle influences from both Italy and Asia. The kaszanka is deep and rich but the biggest success is the cod with apple puree: rolling in strong, unique flavors it’s completely astonishing. $$

Piękna 56 (D6) ul. Piękna 56, tel. 22 412 0656, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.piekna56 The line between restaurants and wine bars

is increasingly blurred, and here’s another opening that greys those boundaries further.

Well considered interiors feature a tree (!), nude art and stacks of wine bottles strategically planted around this warm womb-like space. The menu is light and creative, with the biggest spend being a five star roast beef. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734 or 22 328 8730, open Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 17:30-23:00, www.platter.pl The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed.

An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Po Prostu Zachęta (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.poprostuzacheta. pl Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables nestled beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean.

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22

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RESTAURANTS

Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.restaurant99.com Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit. No longer the top dog for business wining / dining, it nonetheless remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$ Rozbrat 20 (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295, open Mon-Fri 7:30-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last

guest, www.rozbrat20.pl Everything a restaurant should be – modern, but not too excessive, as well as traditional at the same time. Elegance emanates from everything and class glints off the silver champagne bowl and tasteful crockery. The menu is a contemporary, international affair, much like the crowd who appreciate it. $$

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Salto ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto Hotel). Fresh from winning the esteemed Top Chef TV program, Argentinean Martin Gimenez Castro returns to cooking fronting Salto, the new anchor restaurant in the Rialto Hotel. Details were non-existent at press time, but we’ve been told to expect an early February opening.

Judging Castro by his CV, expect Poland’s best steak to play a prominent role.

SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. 600 806 084, open

Insider's Pick Wootwórnia ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 696 259, www.wootwornia.pl.

Open 10:00-22:00.

S

et on a residential side street, and accessed round a back garden, Wootwórnia feels like a private little secret – you get the sensation not of visiting a restaurant, but of visiting a friend. Of course, a lot of places claim to have a ‘garden’, but what they actually mean is a stretch of concrete with a couple of Żywiec branded parasols. At Wootwórnia though, the garden actually is a garden: one with a trampoline, a shed and a black and white cat snooping in the bushes. The whole scene reminds you of home. Inside, it’s equally engaging. The place is small and intimate, with a blackboard menu and shelves built from upcycled crates. The colors are neutral and subtle, while floor-to-ceiling windows allow for the watery, winter

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Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00 Bistro, bakery, hangout. The cooling concrete interiors buzz throughout the day, with touches like communal tables well suited to the ascetic style. Owned by the same lot in charge of 6/12, there’s a similar commitment to good, healthy eating employed here. $$ Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, open 12:00-23:00, www.signaturerestaurant.pl ‘Kilian who?’ people asked when Wojciech Kilian was installed as head chef. But this young talent has had the last laugh: set to be Poland’s next big chef, his cooking is extraordinary and presents true fine dining at bargain prices. Kilian’s cause is complimented by a beautiful design described by one reader as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’.

Think: friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and

sunlight to slant through the glass and cast a warm glow.

Yet the dominant element is the counter – it’s here co-owner Agnes Woo showcases her stock of homemade preserves (e.g. carrot chutney with ginger), not to mention own-baked cakes and imported drinks from the Juiceology brand. As the clues suggest, Wootwórnia place significance on ‘natural’ and ‘organic’. Sourcing ingredients from small-scale local farms, here is a menu designed to nourish the soul. And it does just that.

I start with a tomato soup (zł. 12), its thick warming flavors enriched by hints of orange, aniseed and cinnamon. Forget soup of the day, this is my soup of the year – I speak only to repeat the words, “my God, it’s amazing”. My one complaint: a humble hunk of bread could have made it even better. After such an impressive opening salvo, the main event has a lot to aspire to. Waiting time is a little drawn-out, but here’s a place where you don’t really mind.

Sitting window-side, we bask in the sunlight while following the movements of the prowling cat – we’re in no hurry and life feels good. When the mains do finally make it out, we recognize them for what they are: a labor of love.

For me it’s a duck confit served with chicory, lentils and a sprinkle of pomegranate (zł. 37). The duck’s skin is crisp and well-browned, while below the meat is tender and surprisingly moist. It feels good, though the serving is possibly too much – I want to try the partner’s lamb with carrot puree (zł. 45), but my body refuses. Instead, I settle for hearing all about it: words like ‘fabulous’ are liberally used.

With that, we’re ready to go – but as I order the bill the owner slides an ace out of his sleeve: “maybe you want to try our cheesecake – we made it yesterday.” It’s a sly, sneaky sucker punch of a sales pitch: and, of course, it works. Surrendering to greed, we settle back into our chairs and loosen the belt. Dessert is a delight: rich, fluffy and a true slice of pleasure. Much like the other dishes we’ve tried, it’s straight and simple, yet there’s a real magic in evidence: this is ‘food from the heart’. As a final act, it doesn’t get much better. (AW)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX WEBBER

625 7627, open daily 12:00-22:00, www. qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$

original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. You feel a millionaire just being here. $$ BEST WAWA 2013 "Restaurant Design" Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. www.solec.waw.pl With all the hipsters mincing about it sure doesn’t look like a restaurant: diners line-up at the counter to order, before sitting down in a spontaneous looking interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games.

Chef Aleksander Baron is an absolute star, and his daily changing menu (hourly changing, even), presents soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients. His eye for good meat is undisputed, making it the best alternate dining experience you’ll see for a while. $$

ingredients. It’s pretty wonderful, though the prices are ambitious. $$$ Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 400 1122, open daily 11:30-22:30, www.taste.pl To leave a restaurant fortified is to be expected; to leave delighted is the mark of quality. With a clever L-shaped interior, a natural terrace and a gleaming white ceramic kitchen it looks good, but it’s the food that earns the plaudits.

Dominik Moskalenko, the executive chef who cut his teeth on Amber Room has been a central part of this creation from the beginning and the fruits of his labor are mouth-watering.

Fish sit prominently on his menu and account for an astonishing 60% of sales. And rightly so: they’re phenomenal. $$ U Chłopaków (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 115 9710, open 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00 Chłodna’s renaissance continues. Formerly a decrepit grocery store of the same name, Chłopaków is all exposed brick, sprigs of greenery and overhanging lamps. It’s a casual stop, but the cooking is not a throwaway – the menu is heavily slanted towards Eastern European, and has winning pierogi and wonderfully thick goulash.

Sowa & Przyjaciele (G8) ul. Gagarina 2, tel. 795 505 152, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www. sowaiprzyjaciele.pl It really looks the part, with warm lighting, soft colors and bare bulbs hanging from overhead cables. The positive impressions are further underlined by a sommelier with a sixth sense and a barnstorming menu that catches the attention. Sowa is one of the biggest names in Polish cooking, and you may fear he spends more time on TV than in his kitchen: with that in mind, we’re happy to report the main man emerging from the kitchen to share backslaps and bear hugs with the regulars who return. $$$ Stółdzielnia (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, open daily 13:00-22:00 www.stoldzielnia.pl A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with odd-shaped tables and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, open Mon-Sun 10:00-23:00, www.tamka.43.pl There is an inspiration here which causes guests to linger over their meal, explore it and wonder at it. Food isn’t the background; it is the centerpiece. While Robert Trzópek has left the kitchen, he’s been ably replaced by Rafał Hreczaniuk – his menu pitches modern techniques against traditional, primarily root

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RESTAURANTS Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, open Mon-Fri 12:00 -22:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-23:00, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl There’s a real elegance to Villa Foksal, an upscale restaurant whose floor plan and garden have made them a favorite for corporate bashes and brand launches. The Vichyssoise with truffles is a prelude to mains like filet mignon in red wine sauce. $$$

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Wilczy Glód ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 502 771 447, open 9:0022:00. Opened just as we were packing our bags to go to press, so apologies, you’ll have to wait till next month for the full SP. From their appearances at Warsaw’s various food markets, expect a place that pins itself round organic produce from family farmsteads. We know already it’ll be a winner. $$ Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 2500, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera.pl You may think wine is the main talking point here, but actually, it’s the chef: Jakub Adamczyk, an upcoming star who studied his trade in Michelin mainstay The Square.

His menu is scintillating: ordering the beef tenderloin is a must, as is the rhubarb parfait.

You’ll be happy to pay the heavy handed prices. $$$

ITALIAN

Carpaccio (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 692 4726, open daily 12:00-last guest The Italian influence looms heavy here: the Italian owner patrols the restaurant floor, while Carmelo, a Sicilian, ensures nothing but excellence exits the wood-fired pizza oven. The quality of the hams is undisputed, as a try of the Parma ham bruschetta immediately proves. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www.delizia.com.pl The reasons for Delizia’s success are twofold: Luca and Lorenzo. Luca’s the front man, a charismatic chap and natural showman. In his hands, you’ll feel like a star. Then there’s Lorenzo, the chef out the back. Between the pair of them they’ve turned this tiny little venue into Warsaw’s most convincing Italian enterprise. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, tasteful interiors and brilliant food: what more do you need? $$ Enoteka ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00, www.enotekapolska.pl The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$

Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, open 12:00-22:00 A dark and dimmed space – fashionably sparse – with white wall tiles and eclectic wallpaper climbing to the exposed pipes above. The menu is a simple laminated affair with eleven ‘pizza rosse’ and eight ‘pizza biance’, as well as a scattering of other Italian dishes. Cooked up by Lino and Fabio, the result is Warsaw’s most extraordinary pizzas: yep, the place is even endorsed by the city’s notoriously picky Italian community. $

La Tomatina (D5) ul. Krucza 47A, tel. 22 625 1047, open SunThu 10:30-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:30-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.latomatina.pl Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from good pizzas served in modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. Our spicy tiger prawn spaghetti was also okay, even if the presentation looked like a student had cooked it. $

Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.bacio.pl New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$

Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-20:00 When Michelin starred chef Wojciech Amaro pops in with his family you know something is going right. Here the statement piece is a Stefano Ferrara Napoli oven, used to maximum effect to create pizzas which have come to be considered amongst Warsaw’s best. Import ingredients like Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and Caputo

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flour add to the authenticity, and there’s a medley of other ‘staples from Naples’. $ Mamma Marietta (C9) ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071, open 12:00-22:00, www.mammamarietta.com A scattering of tables make reservations recommended in Mamma Marietta, an informal looking restaurant with lugubrious interiors and solemn service. But the food, created by head chef Andrea, has an authenticity that’s rare in a city whose enthusiasm for Italian food isn’t always reflected by quality. The tomato soup starter, is deliciously thick and almost worth the trip itself. $$ Mezzo Italian Steakhouse ul. Sienkiewicza 5 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 756 3343, open daily 12:00-22:00 Tucked at the tip of Konstancin’s park, Mezzo’s wood-burning brick pizza oven constructed in the garden gets all the thumbs up. Also novel to the community is a chance to enjoy top-notch beef – using filet from Poland and T-bones from Irish Hereford cattle, Mezzo’s newly designed kitchen uses a lava grill to ensure excellence each time. $$ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306, open 12:00-23:00 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant.

Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, open 12:00-last guest, www.sanlorenzo.pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price. It’s in here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$ Superiore (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34, tel. 506 404 059, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00, www.superiorewinebar.pl A hybrid wine shop, deli and restaurant, with an owner who prefers to think about the enjoyment of your dining experience rather than his cash till. The veal pasta is the bestselling dish here for very good reason. $$ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450

The Perfect SUSHI

Visit Sushi Zushi to try our fantastic new sushi sets on the menu this February. And, especially for Valentine's Day, we've got a range of special sushi set specifically for that day!

For the Perfect DATE NIGHT www.sushizushi.pl ul. Ĺťurawia 6/12 tel. 22 420 3373

buiro@.sushizushi.pl

RESTAURANTS 6706, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat & Sun 6:30-11:00 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$ Vapiano Al. Jerozolimskie 63 (Lipinski Passage), tel.

22 356 10 50, open Mon-Thu 9:00-23:00, Fri 9:00-1:00; Sat 11:00-1:00, Sun 11:00-22:00 & ul. Taśmowa 7 (Marynarska Business Park) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) www. vapiano.de/pl Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094, open 6:30-23:00 The high class confines of the Hyatt are the home of Venti Tre, a contemporary restaurant with an open kitchen, and a Mediterranean inspired menu constructed using carefully sourced ingredients from local suppliers. The results are befitting of one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$

JAPANESE & SUSHI Hana Sushi al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 22 331 7518, open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hanasushi.pl Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating

elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$

aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$

Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 & ul.

Biały Kamień 4, tel. 22 424 0055, open MonThu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.izumisushi.eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$

Sushi Club (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 114 1414, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:0023:00, Sun 12:00-22:00, www.sushi-club. pl A couple of dining rooms to choose from, including one found in a restorative salt cave.

The lack of English on the menu may leave you bamboo-zled, but the overall quality is rewarding. We return for the salmon nigri and tuna hosomaki. $$

Ryż i Ryba (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, open Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, www. ryziryba.pl The art of sushi is given a new lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30, Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sakana.pl If there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, it was Sakana. Many claim it’s the best in the city, a stand that’s hard to dispute.

Practice nimble chopstick moves among other

Sushi Marina-Mokotów ul. Warowna 1, tel. 22 493 0302, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.sushimarina.pl Since its heyday in the 00s sushi has been in decline in Warsaw – well, no-one told Marina-Mokotów, and it’s a good job as well.

Completely creative in its offer, this isn’t just another Wa-wa sushi joint. Elaborate rolls are built with forensic precision using the freshest of ingredients. In a place like this, it’s easy to fall in love with sushi all over again. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold and creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl Cesarski Palace has thrived in Warsaw for 18 years – from the outset we were the first to offer authentic Chinese dishes, including our signature Peking Duck which comes baked in a custom-made oven and served with pancakes, cucumbers, por and a special sauce.

Expect personalized service and special attention from the chef inside a restaurant sensitive to Feng Shui requirements. There’s nothing comparable to our perfect tastes!

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Tekeda Sushi & Wok (D1) ul. Freta 18, tel. 600 351 818 & ul.

Meissnera 1/3, tel. 606 236 050, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.sushitekeda.pl In an area plagued by tourist rip-offs, Tekeda get it right with a good balance of sushi and wok dishes. The grilled maki is particularly pleasing. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.tomo.pl Excellent.

While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$

JEWISH Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, open 10:0023:00, www.podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them engaged in something akin to war with the people they serve. $

LATIN & MEXICAN Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, open Sun-Thu 9:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00, www.aioli-cantine.com A jaunty Mediterranean space with hanging hocks of ham and long communal tables. Aioli’s breakfast, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas all seem decent enough, but you can’t help wonder why it’s struck a chord with the public – it’s fine as an evening out, but nothing hugely memorable. $$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.bluecactus.pl The Cactus has been around for years, but such was its fall from grace people had started referring to it in the past tense. Enter new executive chef, Californian Patrick Hanna. Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of

Northern Mexico, Hanna has Blue Cactus on the up. $$

Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, www.casapablo.pl While increasingly well represented in the capital, Spanish food has been pointed in a new direction by Casa Pablo. Breaking away from hackneyed clichés, the eclectic interior (tartan colors, crates, a century old mirror) is reflective of a menu that places equal importance on flair, quality and elements of fine dining. Based on the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, find the likes of pork ribs in hoi sin and honey sauce introduced, not to mention cod cooked at 45 C and served with pigs trotters. You’ll be amazed. $$ Dos Tacos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.dostacos.pl Found high up in the increasingly naff-looking Millennium Plaza, Dos Tacos is adorned with Aztec murals and cartoonish finishes. A growing number of Americans can be found making their way to Floor 5 of the Millennium, and that’s to sample an exciting range of salsas and a solid menu of Mexican staples. $

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 hoza@mondovino.pl Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

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La Fiesta Tequila Bar (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 829 8560, open 12:00-3:00, www.lafiesta.pl What was once a pretty diabolical Mexican joint has, apparently, experienced a dramatic volte face. The sombreros and crap have been replaced by a psychedelic, Day of the Dead-style featuring skeletal Mariachi men, not to mention no shortage of tequila bottles. But the real gossip is reserved for the kitchen: gone are the fraudsters who used to work here, and in their place is Jorge Martinez – no guessing where he’s from. Is his menu up to scratch?

Absolutely no idea. We left after having a run-in with the worst service experienced since the Cold War ended. $ Ole Tapas (E5) ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. ole-restaurant.pl A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$

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RESTAURANTS Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Dogged by failed ventures, this prime location has been gagging for a success story – and it’s got one. The food is good, which has to count for something: from light bites like tortillas, to pots of fresh mussels, everything we’ve tried in this Hispanic-themed spot has been culinary gold. Hanging hocks of ham come scattered around casual, intimate interiors, and further brownie points are gained for a smoking room that doesn’t choke you as well as hilarious toilets (lads, see if you measure up…). $$ Spoco Loco ul. Sarmacka 10, tel. 887 447 447, open 11:00-21:00, www.spocoloco.pl It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain begins and doesn’t retreat until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect. But this causal eatery is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are the real deal, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment.

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, open 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Freshly made tortillas and salsas that make you howl are just two reasons WTF continue to attract such a faithful following. But don’t think of it as just a mere restaurant, this is an ex-pat ‘have-itall’, as proved by evenings that get particularly rowdy when live sports or live bands (or sometimes both) enter the picture.$$

MIDDLE EASTERN

Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$

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Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, open 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$

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Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.sokotra.pl A Yemeni restaurant with a brief menu full of recognizable Eastern dishes like hummus and grilled halloumi. And one of the big boons is the discovery that Indian influences also fall under the compass of Yemeni cuisine – the madras leaves you puffing smoke rings.

Find all that in a casual interior composed of chattery locals and mysterious concrete additions – e.g. a telegraph pole squeezed amid the tables. $$

POLISH Akademia Smaku ul. Oboźna 9, tel.

22 828 9901, open 12:00-24:00, www. akademia-smaku.com.pl Something of a side street surprise, Akademia connect contemporary, neutral interiors with a menu that’s best described as modern/ international. That might sound vague and anonymous, but the results are anything but.

Beautiful presentation and simple, seasonal ingredients combine to make Akademia a high-scoring venue. $$ Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, open

WARSAW INSIDER | FEBRUARY 2014

Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure.

Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, open Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30, www. aterlieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier has no rival – this is the best restaurant in the country, bar none. Find a tasting menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 "Outstanding Achievement" Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, open daily 12:00-24:00, www.bazyliszek. waw.pl Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $ Belvedere Restaurant (F8) ul. Agrykola 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.belvedere.com.pl Set in an atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold and black interiors. $$$ Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, open 12:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00); Sun 12:00-22:00, www.bialages.pl For that elegant touch of Zhivago-era class, it’s got to be Biała Gęś. Interiors conjure images of a countryside manor; you imagine rolling up here after a day shooting foxes. Yet it’s

not those blighters on the menu, but geese.

That’s the house specialty, and you’d do well to find better. A whole bird for four is yours for zł. 490. $$$ Bistro Warszawa (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. 22 635 3769, open daily 12:0024:00, www.bistrowarszawa. pl The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw people city-wide. $$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 A nationwide chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food

isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics and soup presented in bread. Twenty-something Poles cringe at such a representation of their country, but there’s no denying it: it’s an accurate caricature of a mountain-slope karczma. $ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00, www.dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer just to see it. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, open daily 12:00-last guest, www. delicjapolska.pl It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient

and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjadompolski.pl Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, open daily 12:00-midnight, www.folkgospoda.pl To quote an unknown source, traditional Polish food is a celebration of ‘heritage, culture, singing and vodka.’ But snooty Warsaw doesn’t do traditional, at least not in the same way tourist havens like Kraków do. So it’s a joy to find Folk Gospoda. Good humored and filled with gnarled furniture and mountain songs, it’s a place where warm memories are made. Mains are a manly affair (solid, meaty and generous in size) and arrive courtesy of waiters dressed as Zakopane tinkers. $$

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RESTAURANTS Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, open daily 12:00-24:00 (kitchen to 23:00), www.czerwonywieprz.pl Now everyone is rich and happy, it’s easy to forget communism was a pretty dire experiment. Which explains the playful nature of this commie themed restaurant. Dining is done under red banners and paintings of nasty political troublemakers, while the menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the dignitary and proletariat. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$

has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate.

Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic.

Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $

Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00 Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found Kluska Polska (D4) popularity with a new generation. Sure, the ul. Szpitalna 4, tel. 602 550 786, open Mon- food is an acquired taste and best described Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00, www. using words like ‘basic’ and ‘honest’, but kluskapolska.pl The crazy black and white Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s design has you thinking you’ve stepped into seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $ a cartoon cutout, so for the love of God, don’t Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) take any funny little pills before you enter.

The menu is simple and traditional, with hefty Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.podgigantami.pl dumplings the dominant entity. Cheap and cheerful, all the signs suggest a success story Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod in the making. $ Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only Kuchnia Funkcjonalna (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16 (enter from ul. Estońska), satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as tel. 512 893 898, open Mon-Thu 11:00do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century 23:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00 Snuck inside one interiors. $$$ of Saska’s definitive modernist buildings, Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) the opening of Kuchnia has made slow food ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, open accessible to all wallets. Venison from the 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjarozana.

Bieszczady Mountains, dairy products from com.pl Touting a refined, baronial setting, Jersey cattle milk, and the use of goose fat Rożana has starchy white linen, floral pieces instead of butter are just a few noteworthy characteristics; the frequently changing menu and flickering candles, giving off plenty of reflects the commitment to nature. The ascetic classic charm in the best possible taste. With indulgent mains such as farmhouse duck with design is softened by a cast-iron stove and moody lighting, giving the restaurant a warm, apple and cranberry, or saddle of venison with homemade pickle, this is a Polish dining seasonal glow. $$ extravaganza served from the top table.

Pierrogeria (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. 22 743 7644, U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00, Square), tel. 22 831 1013, open 12:00-last www.pierrogeria.eu Pierogi: the pride of the guest, www.ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking Polish pantry… Pervasive in their presence, to get a grasp of local cuisine have many no other dish features so heavily on local options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera menus. Even so, the search for perfect is definitely in the big spend category, but pierogi can lead only to one door: and you’ll visitors come away with a common sense of find that particular portal on pl. Konstytucji. wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting Through their use of unconventional fillings and natural ingredients, Pierrogeria elevate a interiors that have guests exploring twinkling standard, staple food into a class of its own. $ chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) backdrop is paired by a grand menu of duck, ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, open Mon- venison, veal and lamb. $$$ Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.

U Szwejka (D6) podwale25.pl Set through a courtyard that pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, open replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale

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Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.uszwejka.pl Named after fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, open 11:00-23:00 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, open 10:00-22:00, www.zapiecek.eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

SCANDINAVIAN Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www.nabocafe.pl The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$

SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS African Shop ul. Andersa 27, tel. 507 247 292, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, www.afroeuro.eu Beans, beverages, flour and soup thickeners.

Hair products and cosmetics also available, and they promise to be bringing in Abyssinian coffee in the near future as well. ‘’Excellent,’’ gushes one Zimbabwean connection.

BROUGHT TO YOU BY PAPAYA

VIEW TO A GRILL

Outside the growing clutch of lurid TV programs, cooking as a form of entertainment remains an unfamiliar concept in Poland – but entertainment is what you can expect in Papaya...

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to jump back in surprise. But Preecha is only just warming up. There are gasps as he juggles and throws ingredients in the air, splitting an egg mid-flight. He blasts off a honk of his horn as another plops perfectly into his hat. This is pure entertainment – you want to applaud, cheer even. But don’t be fooled: this isn’t just some novelty show – the cooking is as extraordinary as the showmanship. Papaya’s teppanyaki menu ranges from the simple (chicken and mushroom) to the sublime (aged US beef, Australian Kobe, lobster), though in truth, whatever the budget the results will dazzle.

Papaya ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya.waw.pl

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

ike the best theaters, there is a sense of anticipation as Preecha Wongsomboon assumes his position at the center of a horseshoe-shaped dining arena.

Resplendent in a scarlet neckerchief, a holster tied tightly round his waist, he is the epitome of Asian hospitality: all warmth and big smiles. But for this gunslinger, the tools of his trade are not the pistol and lasso, but a set of knives and a ruddy big horn. Bangkok-born, the Thai chef is Papaya’s latest recruit, and not to detract from their other skilled chefs, he is the star attraction.

Fusing cookery with cabaret, Preecha’s medium is the teppan, a huge flat hotplate from where he makes magic.

It is from the teppan flames fire into the air, causing diners

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RESTAURANTS Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, www. befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994.

Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend.

Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free

ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items like Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc.

people use Heritage as a wine bar, while others see it as more than that. And so it is.

Peruse the Italian hams and cheeses in their fridge, olive oils, sauces and of course wine.

Lots and lots of wine.

Food & Joy ul. Nowy Świat 7, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-17:00, www.foodandjoy.eu An upmarket deli chain from the same team behind Krakowski Kredens and Alma.

Krakowski Kredens Various locations across town, check their website for details: www.krakowskikredens. pl Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region.

Hala Koszyki ul. Koszykowa 63, tel. 533 331 588, open Tue-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 12:00-1:00; Sat 12:00-1:00 This charming neo-Gothic pile of bricks hosts one of the quaintest little bazaars Warsaw’s ever seen. There’s a fantastic butcher’s, the freshest import fruit out back, cold cuts, Greek seafood, cheese, a juice bar and Warsaw’s best cakes. Repeat after me: Warsaw’s best cakes.

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

Heritage ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912, open Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Some

La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, open Mon-Wed 9:00-20:00; Thu-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www. lafromagerie.pl Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several

ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20 www.dawnesmaki.pl

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other countries. Also, gourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more.

La Petite France ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, open Mon-Sat 10:30-18:30, www.lapetitefrance. pl Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France.

Le Targ ul. Mińska 25 (SOHO Factory), tel. 603 051 116, open Sat 10:00-15:00 Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves, Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however.

Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, www.littleindia. pl The definitive Indian store though it doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils,

beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available.

and Limousine beef, not to mention lamb, veal and seasoned steaks. A candidate for Warsaw’s best butchery, no less!

Maho al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.maho.com.pl An excellent German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butcher: halal certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry.

Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.namasteindia.pl Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul.

Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves.

Martin’s Good Meat ul. Przejazd 4/7, tel. 797 866 131, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00 Angus, Hereford

Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service.

Targ Śniadaniowy al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.targsniadaniowy.pl The idea is a bit different as it is out in the

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RESTAURANTS open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town.

COOKING SCHOOLS Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, www.cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work.

Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 663 040 800, www. jospehseeletso.pl A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailor-made courses for individuals and groups are held

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in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself.

WHOLE FOODS Krowarzywa (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 516 894 767, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Even committed meat eaters concede there’s something special here. This is a burger bar with a difference: the stuff between the bun is vegan – and way superior to the majority of ‘proper’ burger bars. $ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.lovinghut.waw.pl What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re

WARSAW INSIDER | FEBRUARY 2014

that way inclined. $

Pestka

Pestka (D4) ul. Bracka 6/8, Organic Bistro tel. 691 706 900, open Mon-Fri 8:0020:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.organicbistro-pestka.pl A simple, soothing space of sparing decorations, light modern finishes and plenty of natural light that gushes through the windows. Eschewing the fat and lard that used to feature so prominently in local living, Pestka is all about organic: consider it a gateway to sensible living and a balanced diet. Even the fish is tested for high metal content. $

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W Gruncie Rzeczy (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 692 464 489, open 10:00-23:00 A vegan haven whose menu is heavily slanted towards local produce. The offer includes a number of vegan pastes, sandwiches, beetroot burgers and soups. The presence of equally hip Meat Love next door is something of a foil, with the two neighbors naturally complimenting each other. $

Reviews: Być Może 61 / Plus:

* 3 updates

CAFÉS & WINE BARS CAFES 61 / WINE BARS 63

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

Insider’s Pick

Być Może ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, open 7:00-23:00, www.bycmoze.com.pl

his place is good, very good. They describe themselves as a French bistro/bakery but Być Może is much more than that. In a time when cafés are popping up like crazy and everything seems to have been done before, this comes as a nice breath of fresh air because here, it’s done right – it’s clear someone knows what they’re doing.

The stars of the show are the various breads, their motto being “everything with bread and bread with everything”. Dishes are characterized by seasonal fare and a departure from a cookie-cutter attitude towards food. You can grab an artisan breakfast, a dailychanging two-course lunch deal or even casual dinner with wine. As an added bonus for those like me who could eat breakfast fare all day long, their breakfast menu is served from morning until night. Don’t be discouraged by what seems like just another café menu – the warm sandwich I had was marvelous, in a large French bread roll, and the salad original.

The interiors are done in the fail-safe industrial style complete with a communal table and floor-to-ceiling windows which lend to people-watching and bathe the space in natural light. However, the definite attribute lies in its spaciousness – tables are relatively far apart so waiters and guests don’t hit you on the head when walking through.

If that wasn’t enough, its location is optimal. The place technically sits on a corner of Plac Unii Lubelskiej, the location of the swanky new (albeit still empty) shopping mall.

Plac Unii has finally been reclaimed as a destination and not just a place of transit on the Mokotów-Centrum axis, a hopefully soon-to-become hip area, especially bearing in mind its stone’s throw location from Plac Zbawiciela etc. Even though the name “Być Może” can be interpreted as either “maybe” or “can do” – this place is neither and well worth a visit. (KK)

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CAFÉS Bar Studio (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 603 300 835, open SunThu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:45 The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions.

Bułkę przez Bibułkę (E8) ul. Puławska 24, tel. 794 000 634, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-16:00, www.bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

Café 6/12 (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00 www.612.pl Famous for dispensing complex fruit and vegetable super smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; the cavernous interiors are still very much the choice haunt for on trend 30 something’s.

Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115, open Sun-Thu 6:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 6:30-1:00 Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat.

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to linger.

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Chłodna 25 ul. Chłodna 25. Warsaw’s original hipster bar was gearing up to re-open at press time, hopefully for good – ongoing battles with nosey neighbors have seen this place close more times than we can count. From what we can tell the new look will feature a neo-retro style, and no doubt plenty of skinny-trousered media types splashed on the seats with Mac books at hand. No word yet if there’ll be alcohol.

Christian’s Bakerhouse (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 628 6345, open daily 9:00-21:00, www.bakerhouse.pl A top quality bakery/café/restaurant owned not by some creepy religious order, but by TV chef Krystian Zalejski. Fixed up in rustic style, the ever changing menu round at Christian’s is mostly filled with Italian staples – but with a twist. Think pappardelle with roasted duck slices and rosemary. And look out for their breakfasts, which include a noble attempt at a traditional British fry-up.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (though the side passage), tel. 505 695 512, open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.czesc.waw. pl Located down a gusty tunnel underneath a modern residential/office compound, you might not expect much. But this small room is a treasure: one with Artezan Pacific and British cider on tap, Rwandan drip coffee, mountain vodka and boutique cakes made with love. Changing art adorns the walls, and there’s no shortage of eccentricities – upcycled crates as shelving, and a toilet with a Space Invaders theme. A versatile place, it’s the café everyone needs next door.

and cafe. Curious doors sit embedded on the wall, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Flowers, plant pots and violet splashes give it a cheerful spin, while the Italian inspired menu isn’t short on creative flair.

sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that is the magnetic force: here you’ll find fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in precise military formation – try the Red Velvet.

Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21, tel. 791 096 725, open Mon-Thur 8:00-22:00; Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 828 5417, open Mon-Wed 10:00-23:00; Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun14:00-23:00, www. miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been.

Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

Kava i Vino (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 692 7314, www.kavaivino.pl The standout feature is an unconventional interior designed by renowned architects Dobek, Wojcickiego, Białobrzeska, Boczko. Over 1,200 pieces of wood hang from the ceiling, creating a beautiful visual effect. The short menu features wine, cold meat platters, cheese bruschetta, wraps, salads and sandwiches, as well as a few daily specials – the results are fair to good.

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, tel. 22 270 2179, open 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. klubokawiarnia.net Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors.

Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, screenings and art happenings have made it into something of local cultural mainstay.

Dr. Kava (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 601 615 327, open MonFri 7:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00, www. drkava.pl Looking dynamite red, Dr. Kava was one of the success stories of 2013 – some go as far as to say it’s their favorite coffee in the city. Coffee from Chicco d’Oro and chocolates and confectionary from pedigree producer Leone signal this doctor’s dedication to his clientele.

Koszyki (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, tel. 533 331 588, open Tue-Fri 10:00-2:00; Sat 9:00-2:00; Sun 10:00-24:00. Not just Warsaw’s best urban market, but also a very decent café. Set in the ceramic tiled entrance of Hala Koszyki, there’s some fabulous food squiggled on the blackboard, and that definitely includes the boeuf bourgignon and pots of mussels. At night, pop in to take languid sips of Aperol Spritz, Arrancello and other ‘drinks of the moment’.

Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, open Mon-Sat 12:00-21:00; 12:00-21:00 Dziurka serves an ambiguous role as a bar, restaurant

La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, open 10:00-20:00, www.lavanille.pl Thick with the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and

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Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 503 080 906, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www.ministerstwokawy.pl Just the chicest little café you’ll see for a while: pristine white wall tiles and Edwardianstyle furnishings combined with a funky contemporary lamp, and simple tables, chairs and comfy chaises. Neither too commercial nor too hipster, the place is known for weekly drip coffee specials, and also freshly squeezed juices.

MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 22 629 0815, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00, www.mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore.

Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall. my’o’my (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), open Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www. myomy.pl Slightly rustic in design, with wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor.

The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17, tel. 664 844 439, open Mon-

Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt.

Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spread and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9446, open 9:00-24:00, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while winter sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-18:00 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

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Square 5 Pl. Bankowy 3/5, tel. 504 914 773, open Mon-Fri: 7:00-22:00, Sat 8:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00. Square 5 comes as a pleasant surprise amidst the desert that is Pl. Bankowy. Combine their extensive blackboard menu with a countertop heavy with freshly-baked goods from their own oven and you newcomers may be positively overwhelmed. As for their coffee, that’s premium Ionia il Caffe, and it comes in all forms: from the traditional cappuccino to more daring coconut macchiato.

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Waff-Love ul. Senatorska 28, tel. 502 635 222, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00, wafflove.pl Upon entering the petit premises the homey waft of sweet crispy batter hits your senses, and while the waffles are less sweet than your traditional Belgian product, after a mountain of topping you’d be hard pushed to notice. Kiss dietary resolutions goodbye...

WINE BARS Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon-Tue 10:00-22:00; Wed-Sat 10:00-24:00, www.alewino.pl Warsaw is increasingly devoted to megalith wine worlds. In comparison, Ale Wino is small fry, Lilliputian even. Yet there’s a real charm that wins over all. Covertly stashed inside a courtyard, that Ale Wino’s! neighbors include fashion Tsar Robert Kupisz announce this place as the frontline of cool – as if to qualify this, find furnishings by the celebrated design brains at Studio Rygalik. Stocked with wines from 16 countries, place your trust in sommelier Adrian Litkowicz for a taste of something special.

Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44. open 12:00-23:00 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking points aren’t limited to the interiors alone. The wine selection was personally overseen by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most esteemed wine importer in the country.

And the choice is prodigious. Offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls. BEST WAWA 2013 “Wine Bar” Charlotte (D6) ul. Aleja Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl.

Zbawiciela), tel. 22 628 4459, open Mon-Thur 7:00-24:00; Fri 7:00-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-22:00, www.bistrocharlotte.com It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Mac technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar.

Hoża by Mondovino (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, tel. 515 037 001, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hoza.warszawa.pl Successfully establishing themselves over summer, you’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak.

But what is meat without wine? Complimenting the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. They’re the personal selection of actor / owner Tomasz Budyta, a successful wine importer for the last 23 years.

Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, open Mon-Thur 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:0023:00, www.prawdziwewina.pl Some think of this as a neighborhood wine bar – they’re clearly privileged, because if everyone had a Jung & Lecker next door it’d be a kind world indeed. While the courtyard garden is a highlight, even in the sub-zero season there’s reason to swing by. Offering an intimate atmosphere and a strong menu, the finishing touch is provided by way of wines sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, open Mon-Fri 9:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22); Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:30-17:00 (kitchen closes at 17:00), www.mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates with city casual cool.

Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 25 00, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera. pl Lending a lift to a sad stretch of Chłodna is Winosfera, a huge wine bar with all the requisite crates and industrial fittings – there’s even a cinema. The upside is true fine dining, and a flawless wine selection. Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 521 06 66, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00 Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve already won a staunchly loyal following. Get your week off to a galloping start and visit on ‘Jazz Monday’s’. You’ll be joining the most beautiful people in the city.

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Reviews: Polonez 65 / Plus:

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NIGHTLIFE

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BARS & PUBS 65 / CLUBS 69 / GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS 70 / JAZZ CLUBS 70 / SHOT BARS 70

“ If you thought Beirut up the road was cool and quirky, then Polonez have gone the extra yard”

Insider’s Pick

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PHOTOGRAPH BY IAN FERGUSON

s a self-confessed creature of habit, my January’s have something of a repetitive look: without fail they begin with a croaked yawn, a splash of Alka Seltzer and the steely intention to never drink again. As a rule such promises last about a week, sometimes even longer, before ending, somewhat inevitably, with me falling out of a pub belting Bristol City songs about cider and beating Rovers – general prattery, basically.

This time round, however, I didn’t even manage a week of good behavior, and for that I blame Warsaw. Usually, come this opening month, the city settles into a post-party torpor: there’s a sluggish sense of suicide as everyone buckles down to grind out and survive until spring. But lo, the snow arrived behind schedule this time, meaning the year started off in a jaunty style: people were out, new places opened.

Count Polonez in that number, a compact bar whose discreet entrance opens into a room that mixes elements of raw industrial-

ism with touches of milk bar chic: black and white Zbigniew Cybulski films project onto one wall, while on another, potted shrubs hang off rattling metal room dividers. The look is urban and sparse, yet maintains an intimacy and warmth that leads guests to settle. If you thought Beirut up the road was cool and quirky, then Polonez have gone the extra yard.

But there’s more. Further on, a separate bar area features added eccentricities, among them a pair of antlers and a horde of junkyard findings – everywhere one

looks, new oddities are revealed. From a design perspective it impresses for both creativity and functionality, though in truth, the aesthetics are just a part of the story.

This is not a place that has gone for quick-fix sponsorship from the bland brand breweries. Instead, the fridge is a showcase of beers from Pinta and Ursa; other beverages arrive in the form of obscure nalewki, bio-drinks and regional tipples that have been carefully sourced. And this approach extends to the snacks and nibbles, which embrace the concept of home preparation and natural produce from the meadows of Poland.

And be in no doubt, Polonez is nothing if it is not a celebration of Poland. Yet for all that, you can’t box it off as a theme bar nor as a cliché. While there are heavy hints of nostalgia (the toilet, a clanky pull-chain affair, goes so far as to parp out golden oldie tunes from the PRL), it’s more a celebration of the good things Poland has to offer: both old and new, traditional and contemporary.

In that it’s a bold, fresh project, and can’t be compared to any bar in town.

Most importantly, it preserves the spirit of Poznańska: their audience is open and internationally minded, and the staff likewise.

If, in these thorny diplomatic times, a bar could represent Poland, I’d have no second thoughts about nominating Polonez to serve as its ambassador: it’s that good. (AW) Polonez ul. Poznańska 24, tel. 604 942 169.

Open Sun-Wed 10:00-1:00; Thu 10:002:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-3:00.

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NIGHTLIFE BARS & PUBS Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, open daily 12:00-4:00, www.beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The big fail of 2012. Forget that it’s the most accurate replica of a traditional British pub around, and consider instead the heinous service, fried aromas and a deserved ex-pat boycott traced to the dismissal of the original British manager.

Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 22 890 77 05, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl A subterranean space that can get loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky. Featuring a ‘tomb’ of mainstream beers, Chmielarnia may look a little basic, but it’s definitely the real deal.

A peerless selection of craft beer sees 40 lagers rotated on 15 taps, and even more rare finds in the fridge: among them BrewDog, Lindemanns, and of course a comprehensive choice of experimental Polish brews. Look out for stocks of Thistly Cross.

Coctail Bar Max (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 691 710 000, open daily 11:00-15:00, www.barmax.pl Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, it’s a resounding yes. With its light wood touches and fruity montages Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with an alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in a miniature form. The only problem? By their very nature, cocktails aren’t concocted in two minutes flat – if it’s busy, waiting around is like Death by a Thousand Cuts.

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106, open 10:00-2:00, www.cudanakiju.

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pl Warsaw’s multi-tap revolution started here! Marketed at normal people – not just hipsters, for a change – this sleek space comes drenched in sunlight that comes slanting through the four glass walls. Could it be too basic? No – anything else would detract from the main attraction: the beer.

About 15 taps dispense regional brews, cult indy productions as well as quirky imports from Czech, Belgium and beyond.

Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, open Tue-Thu, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www. czeskabaszta.pl Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary.

Bathed in a yellowish murk, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk!

There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

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Delirium ul. Freta 19, tel. 532 742 400, deliriumwarszawa.pl Due to open around press time Delirium promises to put a new slant on the multi-tap trend. We’re told to expect about 20 tap Belgian beers, along with a choice of 50 bottles (rising to 200 in the future). Named after the infamous and highly toxic ‘pink elephant beer’, this could yet be the best launch of the year – aspirin at the ready! Full review next issue.

Flaming & Co. Champagne Bar (E6) ul. Mokotowska 43, tel. 22 625 0818, open 12:00-23:00, www.flaming-co.pl Checkered floor tiles, pristine whites and classic pictures of the rich and famous announce Flaming. The guys look like Bond villains and the gals just like Bond girls, but don’t think it’s a closed shop. With glasses of Moet starting below zł. 50 it’s accessible to all. But forget the champagne, it’s their cocktails we love. Order oysters and let the night take its course.

Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855, open MonFri 13:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00, www.goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking

WARSAW INSIDER | FEBRUARY 2014

a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

Haka (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 515 967 123, open Mon-Wed 10:00-24:00; Thu-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00 Big things are happening in this small little room. Under the stewardship of Kevin Bradley this ex-pat hit has now added Guinness and live sports (it’s the rugger bugger favorite) to their offer to go alongside a fab menu by Kiwi chef Shane. An intimate space clad in brickwork and metal, Haka gets further applause for adding Arnie – Warsaw’s favorite cocktail king – to their staff lineup.

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 791 334 606, open daily 12:00-4:00 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodsy Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218, open Mon-Thu 14:00-2:00; Fri 14:00-4:00; Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00. www.kufleikapsle.pl Ten tap and two pump beers offer a magnificent spread of daily changing beers, and the good news continues with the choice in the fridge: there’s 120 beers down there, so gamble on a rather jolly night. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the building, and are already thick with noise, clamor and the welcome scent of beer and spillage. BEST WAWA 2013 “Beer Bar” Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 790 010 088, open Mon-Fri 16:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest, www.kwadrat.waw.pl Chilled out and downtempo, owners Zosia and Michał have created a legend out of this dinky two room affair. There’s too many beers to recommend, though the Rowing Jack diminishes quickly for a reason.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.legendsbar.pl A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking

NIGHTLIFE chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps.

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 6306, open Mon-Sun 18:00-2:00, www.panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a wellto-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, open daily 18:00-last guest, www.paparazzi.com. pl Engage in suicidal cocktail consumption alongside high rollers and genetic miracles.

Slick and smooth, Poland’s original cocktail chain continues to set the bar high with formidable cocktails (Pimm’s included!) and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. 513 191 641, open 10:00-4:00, www.pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

THERE’S ONLY ONE THERE’S ONLY ONE LEGENDARY BURGER LEGENDARY BURGER IN WARSAW! IN WARSAW!

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Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 83 73, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul.

Parkingowa), tel. 534 734 500, open 11:00-1:00 Dubbing themselves to be Warsaw’s first ‘hyper tap bar’, Piw Paw have an armory of 57 tap beers, about ten tables and two toilets – do you see the problem?

Designed more for carry-out custom, it’s an ambitious project though one that doesn’t feel entirely thought out. And in spite of the offer, it’s nothing more exciting than the other multi-tap choices. A good start point, nonetheless.

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Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976, open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. www.planb.pl Bottled then packaged in Plan B (pl. Zbawiciela) is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Przychodnia (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 827 8356, open 12:00-24:00 Erm, so, here’s a bar themed around communist hospitals. Are you sure that’s a good idea? Order test tube shots from staff dressed like docs, before settling into an interior equipped with operating room lights, surgical utensils and a smoking room designed like a toilet. What were they thinking with this one? No idea, but it’s certainly a novelty.

Pure Sky Club (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Skylight Tower), tel. 22 250 1111, open Mon-Fri 7:00-23:00; Sun 12:0017:00, www.pureskyclub.com Slotted on the top floor of the 22-storey Sky Tower, Pure Sky Club offers a slice of the high life (literally and otherwise) to high society looking to mix business with pleasure inside this ‘private club’ – this is where the Top Gear lads went for their after show party. Friday is the highlight though, with their weekly London Calling event drawing dressy ex-pats looking for live entertainment. For membership, check their web.

Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Most part restaurant, bit part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally hangout – not always in that order. And as for the drinks, they’re really very good. Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of must-try cocktails. Try their best seller: the Bloody Hell. Using Chopin vodka infused with horse radish, pirri pirri and basil, this pimped out version of the Bloody Mary incorporates chili syrup and wasabi in a high octane drink BEST WAWA 2013 that kicks like a mule.

“Cocktails” Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 796 671 950, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.spiskowcy.pl The

ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

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Sztuka i Sztucki (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 468 00 00, open Sun-Thu 12:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 18:00-last guest, www.sztukisztuczki.pl Visitors negotiate a maze of narrow corridors, nooks and corners, with meanderings to the leviathan, boat-shaped bar taking in concrete floors, naked brickwork and vaulted ceilings. The beer list offers a jumble of exemplary brews, among them the outstanding Grimbergen, while cocktails are novel and largely ravishing. And of course, it helps that enjoyment of them is done on ultra-cool seats designed by Pierre Favresse. Rather than attracting gurning wannabe’ Latino dudes and plastic models

the music attracts a diverse range of peeps: that’s thanks to a schedule that encompasses everything from jazz tributes to club nights.

BEST WAWA 2013 “Late Night”

provide ample opportunity for the city’s young to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as the hipster Center of Power, a collective bout of outrage saved them from council threatened closure last year. Not just a bar, they’re now filling a dual role as Warsaw’s one billionth burger joint.

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622, open Mon-Sun 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Warsaw’s premier sports pub: and it’s not just the extent of their sporting offer that elevates WTF, but the atmosphere. Whether it’s international rugby, or Bristol City on a Tuesday night, the tension, camaraderie and horseplay are unmatched. On the occasions where there is no sport, swing by for live bands and a lively atmosphere fueled by a heady mix of ex-pats, international students, and locals looking bewildered by it all.

1500m2 (E3) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412, open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00, www.1500m2.com Set in a former printing factory, 1500m2 has been central to the rise of Powiśle. The industrial space has a real Berlin edge to it, and events range from weekend flea markets to teeth shattering, dusk-till-dawn electro events.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, tel. 22 474 40 84, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last guest, www.warszawapowisle.pl The prime months for this former ticket-booth are in summer when the deck chairs outside

De Lite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. 792 014 166, www.deliteclub.pl This place definitely joins the ranks of Platinium and Foksal XVIII in the ‘bubbles and beauties’ stakes. Scantily clad dates bop along sipping on martinis,

CLUBS

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NIGHTLIFE flirting and dancing, while exposed brick and pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror setup in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, spaceship interior. Of the top end uber clubs, this is becoming our favorite, with a wild night of excess virtually guaranteed.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, open Wed-Sat 22:00-4:00, www.enklawa.com Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost.

Foksal XVIII (E4) ul. Foksal 18, open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00 Composed using chandeliers, bricks and velvet this classy space has gone head to head with The Eve as Warsaw’s flashest venue: breathe deep and smell the money.

Cardboard animal shapes hang from the bar, adding some surreal humor to the seriously competitive air.

The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa),

tel. 604 145 462 or 22 827 5242, open ThuFri 21:00-last guest, www.theeve.pl Beauty and booty come first in The Eve, a blinged up offshoot of Platinium nearby. A cutthroat door policy ensures plenty of egos crash and die at the door, and it’s got a Bacchanalian reputation for champagne popping high jinks.

Observe them through the one way mirror in the VIP room.

Luzztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, open Wed-Thu 22:00-10:00; Fri-Sat 24:00-14:00, www. luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a nefarious reputation as something of a dodgy den of illicit pharmaceuticals and libertine behavior. Looking grim and grotty, this after party legend gets going at about 4 a.m. when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the final touches to their zonked out stare. For the full tilt, teeth rattling electro experience it’s pretty hard to beat.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 694 413 439, open Thu-Sat 21:00-6:00. www.platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per

Shot Bars Afera na Szpitalnej ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 509 777 797, open 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 24hrs Looking light and bright this place appeals to more than just hardened alcoholics – a point proved by spot-on food home cooked by the owner’s mum. It’s young, fun and lively in swagger.

Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21, open 11:00-6:00 Affecting the style of a PRL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to the chains of bog paper.

Pijalnia ul. Nowy Świat 19, open 24hrs Bow-tied staff serve vodka and pickles from behind a tiled bar to a crowd that gets younger as the day gets older. In quieter times, check the newspaperd walls to read up on 1980s sports reports.

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Przekąski u Romana ul. Ludna 2, tel. 660 525 777, open 24hrs. When Warsaw’s original shot bar, Przekąski Zakąski, closed last year the gasps were audible. But fear not, the cult hero you’d have found serving the shots, the bow-tied, debonair Roman Modzelewski, has gone and opened his own venue. Expect the same formula (cheap beer and vodka, traditional Polish boozy bites) inside a background dominated by a giant picture of the Palace of Culture.

Warszawska Pl. Zbawiciela 5, tel. 600 121 240, open 24hrs When Plan B closes the hardcore head here. Little more than a grey concrete room, this newbie is winning the war as the city’s favorite shot bar, and it is a good spot to watch the latest rainbow fire.

WARSAW INSIDER | FEBRUARY 2014

sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. BEST WAWA 2012 “Rich & Pretty Club” Winner

GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS Coyote (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 505 469 056, open Mon-Sun 21:00-5:00, www.coyotebar.eu Coyote Bar marks the start of the Mazowiecka, err, strip, and features a small bar in front and then a larger room with more intimate acts of friendship taking place behind the curtain.

New Orleans (D4) ul. Zgoda 11, tel. 22 826 4831 or 600 063 667, open Mon-Sun 16:00-4:00, www. neworleans.pl High rollers looking to clinch a deal in unusual surrounds should consider doing so in New Orleans: a gentleman’s club with a seriously VIP dining area. Cheaper snack and sandwich options available should you prefer to spend your money on the real reason you’re here…

Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, tel. 794 007 000, open 21:00-4:00, www.playhouse.pl Housed in a former bomb shelter, would you believe it.

Now though the talk is of bombshells, namely the 57 they’ve got on their books. Like most clubs, this place features a distinctly Slavic lineup of Poles, Russians and Ukrainians.

JAZZ Bistro na Pięknej (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.jazzone.pl A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace. Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts.

Nu Nu Nu (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 621 8989, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00.

For something a little educated take a date to Nu, a high-ceilinged effort with slick urban dashes and regular piano. The Żurawia location marks it out as a popular spot for a high-end crowd.

Reviews: Agent Provocateur 71 / Plus:

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SHOPPING

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

ACCESSORIES 72 / FASHION 71 / HOME DECOR 73 / SHOPPING MALLS 74

Insider’s Pick

FASHION American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 605645289, open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style.

Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 22 622 02 76, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Agent Provocateur ul. Mokotowska 59, tel. 22 273 6162, www.agentprovocateur.com

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nybody who knows their lingerie knows that Agent Provocateur is the good stuff. It is among the best of the bunch, the Jaguar of frilly underpinnings, its cachet recognized all over the world. So it did come as a bit of a surprise to see a flagship boutique in little old Warsaw. And yet the location on the swankier strip of Mokotowska makes perfect sense, just a few steps away from the hoity-toity Zień boutique. It’s a tiny shop, but it makes the most of its limited square footage with sex appeal from floor-to-ceiling. My mouth began watering as soon as I walked in at the sight of so many sumptuous bits of strategicallyplaced satin and lace. It felt like Christmas again with all those bows and ribbons. These pieces are – if you can imagine such a thing – tastefully sleazy, respectably risqué. They’re the sort of thing you’d imagine the sexiest cast members of the Real Housewives of Beverly Hills wearing underneath their Chanel and Valentino.

The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. The color palette ranges from the classic blacks, reds and nudes to full-on fluorescent lime and juicy grape. My favorite number must be a tasseled peek-a-boo one-piece that looked like what you might wear to do a bit of Gatsby-esque role play with your very own financier. Then there’s the tiny green bikini with a sparkling strawberry charm between the boobs and the bondage bikini that Rihanna made famous last summer. If you’re looking for a statement swimsuit, this is definitely the place to get it. Of course, it’ll cost you at least four figures – in zlotys, mind you, so that should soften the blow somewhat. And if that’s not enough, they’ve got sexy stockings, silk robes, perfume, satin gloves, a blindfold and nipple tassels.

Try it all on if you dare in the sweet little fitting room decorated in cherry blossom wallpaper.

Bringing sexy back couldn’t be sweeter… (AMG)

Bizuu ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 727 425 352 or 609 888 363, open Mon-Sat 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-16:00, www.bizuu.pl A gorgeous, feminine collection from two talented Polish designers – including, the must need pastels of the coming season.

Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00, tel.

22 611 3814, pl. Uni Lubelskiej, tel. 22 647 0394, open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat Sun 10:00-20:00, www.chiara-online.pl A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander. The current collection is a true tribute to S/S 2012 – bright colours, florals, platform heels and wedges.

Designer Secret ul. Mokotowska 39 (courtyard), tel. 506 051 048 or 511 649 493, open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-15:00, www.designersecret.pl High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with women and men’s apparel from the previous years’ collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price.

Frank A ul. Natolińska 3, tel. 22 424 79 79, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00,

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SHOPPING www.franka.pl The interior is painfully chic and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Sweeney, perfectly fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch.

Gosia Baczyńska (Praga) ul. Floriańska 6/11, tel. 516 133 507, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; 12:00-15:00. www.gosiabaczynska.com.pl This elegant boutique on the other side of the river features gorgeous, unique designer pieces.

Joanna Klimas ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, ul. Puławska 2 (CH Plac Unii), open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.joannaklimas.com One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion.

L’Aura ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00 Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho.

Likus Concept Store ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), tel. 22 310 73 13, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 519 000 049, open Mon-Sat 11:00-19:00, www.zien.pl A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom.

Marks & Spencer Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 206 4370, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00. ul.

Marszałkowska 104/122 (DT Wars & Sawa), tel. 22 206 4353, open 9:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00, Al. Jerozolimskie 179, tel. 22 206 4386, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00, Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0653, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun

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9:00-21:00, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl The popular British brand’s new Warsaw store sells menswear, womenswear and children’s clothing, as well as various beauty products, groceries, wines and spirits. This is its newest and largest store in Poland to date.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, www.moliera2.com Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain.

Muji ul Mysia 3, tel. 502 264 091, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www.muji. com.pl Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store.

Pinko Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4616, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00, Nowy Świat 1, tel. 22 629 1773, open Mon-Sat 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-19:00; Sun 11:00-16:00, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 22 541 3862, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00, www.pinko.it Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories.

Premiere Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), tel.

506 170 801, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00;

WARSAW INSIDER | FEBRUARY 2014

Sat 11:00-14:00, www.robertkupisz.com One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner, and Kupisz’s latest collection is a tribute to Americana: think disheveled cowgirls flouncing on the prairie.

Redford and Grant Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00, www.redfordandgrant.pl This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada.

Reykjavik District ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, www.reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Sabotage ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 887 1056, open Mon-Sat 10:00-19:30 Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo.

Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, open Mon & Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a one-stop shop to re-boot your wardrobe.

Teresa Rosati (Sadyba) Al. Witosa 31 (Panorama), tel. 609 433 343, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00, www.teresarosati.com.pl Elegant cocktail dresses, gowns for special occasions and beautiful fabrics from one of Poland’s best-known designers. Ready-to-wear and custom-made services at discreet location in Sadyba by appointment.

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Vintage Store ul. Dobra 56/66 (Level 1, University of Warsaw library), tel. 501 301 742, www. vintagestore.pl Since its inception the store has grown in many ways – now, used brands

HOTEL**** GNIEW CASTLE

SHOPPING like Burberry, Barbour, dresses from the ’70s, Hermes scarves, snakeskin handbags, or original Adidas sweaters from the ’60s and ’70s (the owner is an avid collector) are not an uncommon find in the shop.

ACCESSORIES Bagatt ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 622 0015, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.bagatt. pl A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Pl. Trzech Krzyży.

Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), tel.

794 689 090, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00 Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line.

Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections.

Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 625 0881, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-15:00, www.mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Batycki (various locations) Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite.

Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, tel. 22 611 3814, open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat Sun 10:00-20:00. www.chiara-online.pl You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry.

Church’s Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00 A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes.

Frey Wille ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00.

www.frey-wille.com You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Viennabased jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals.

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Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 403 19 19, open Mon-Fri 11:19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00, www.lilou.pl Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista.

Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, tel. 22 389 8600, open Mon-Thur 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.kencenter.pl Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Bomi supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www. mysia3.pl Hip and high-end department store with units such as NYCity (DKNY, Donna Karan), Berries & Co. (Ice Watch, Triwa, Ike Milano), UEG, My Paris and Take a Nap selling great pieces from both established and upcoming designers.

Targówek (Praga) ul. Głębocka 15, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.atrium-targowek.pl

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 665 625 618, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel.

22 541 4141, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range.

For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

SHOPPING MALLS Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl

WARSAW INSIDER | FEBRUARY 2014

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Gucci, Bottega, Yves Saint Laurent, etc…

Wola Park (Wola) ul. Górczewska 124, tel. 22 533-4000, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.wolapark.com Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www. zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

Reviews: National Stadium Ice Rink 75

childRen

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

activities 75 / cafes 78 /education 76

insider’s Pick

activities Barwy Muzyki ul. Niecała 14, tel. 22 188 18 27, www. barwymuzyki.pl This informal music school, with highly qualified teachers experienced in the Colour Strings program, acknowledges not every child will be a professional musician but that playing, listening and singing to music is an asset to their development. Group or individual lessons on piano, violin, guitar, cello and flute for 6-12yrs.

copernicus science centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, www.kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

National stadium ice Rink Al. Poniatowskiego 1, www.stadionnaradowy.org.pl (open until February 20th)

PhOTOGrAPh By GILL BOELMAN-BurrOWS

i

live with a football fanatic whose second home is a stadium, and through preference I steer well clear. But when the National Stadium announced it would transform to an indoor ice rink, I was lured by the thought of experiencing that adrenaline rush footballers get when stepping onto the pitch. Getting tickets online proved challenging so I opted for purchasing in advance from a helpful lady at the stadium reception (adults zł. 10, kids zł.

6). As we pulled up in the free parking area for our 16:30 slot the adrenaline kicked in.

There, towering over us in the dusk, with its patriotic flashing light display weaving around the structure, stood the impressive stadium. Fifty something steps later we were inside…

I had anticipated rather tight security, but with one flash of our tickets we were in the basement wrestling with helmets, gloves and trying to avoid slicing off body parts with our keenly sharpened blades. Everything else – and everyone else – was calm. People rented skates (zł. 10) and helmets (zł. 5) in an orderly and efficient manner the like of which I’ve never seen at Stegny.

We trudged toward the open expanse and for a moment its sheer vastness did evoke a buzz. But it was short lived as it became obvious only a third of it was an ice rink. The remaining area was dedicated to rollerblading/skateboarding, badminton and a café that, admittedly, served a pleasant hot chocolate. The rink was divided into two sections, one for toddlers and novices, the other for everyone else. Disco music played but was drowned out by the Polish chap with a microphone who amused himself by talking about peoples ‘freestyle’ and every 15 minutes got us to turn and skate the other way – thus causing plenty of pile ups.The large screen hanging above us mainly filmed the scantily dressed wannabe figure skaters. Our moment of fame came as I attempted a signature move and landed on my knees. After that I made a graceful lunge for the exit and then some nifty footwork toward the café. In all, it’s a bargain, an adventure and experience we won’t forget. (GBB)

cukier Lukier ul. Emilii Plater 10, tel. 605 660 005, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 10:0018:00, www.cukierlukier.pl Confectionary making courses and displays that attract kids of ALL ages.

Fryzjerkowo ul. Foksal 12/14, tel. 22 827 2744, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00, www.fryzjerkowo.pl This 100% child friendly hair salon with jungle theme interior will guarantee no tears! Whilst having their locks chopped children sit in a toy car and watch a favorite DVD. Mum can peruse the retro toys and classic books on sale. Owner speaks excellent English. Advance booking recommended.

Fundacja atelier ul. Foksal 11, 22 826 8813 or 22 826 9589, open Mon-Fri 10:00- 20:00, Sat 9:30-20:30, www.atelier.org.pl Situated in an atmospheric 19th century building this foundation organizes affordable/flexible workshops to develop and inspire art education and creative skills (painting/drawing/sculpture/ art history) for children, young people and adults.

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cHiLdReN HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 74 00, open Mon-Tue 12:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-4:00; Sun 10:0024:00, www.hulakula.com.pl Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools. Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu.

Little chef ul. Bałuckiego 30/1, tel. 501 093 691, www.littlechef.pl (visit for more information) Cooking classes for children age 3-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook-and-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English and Polish, Mon-Sat.

of the language.

three tiger cubs born in Feb.

Mums & tots www.mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless.

For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web.

Wilanów Golf driving Range/ ekberg Golf academy ul. Vogla 19, tel. 22 424 7083, open Mon-Sun 9:00-21:00, www.golfparkspoland. pl Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. There is a weekly junior hour (5-15yrs), ladies hour and fun mini-golf course.

teatr Guliwer ul. Różana 16, tel. 22 845 16 76/77, box office open 9:00-17:30, www.teatrguliwer. waw.pl Well worth a visit, even for non-Polish speakers. An exciting colorful premises with creative costumes make this the choice place to introduce the kids to theater. teatr Lalka Pl. Defilad 1 (Palace of Culture), tel. 22 620 4960 or 22 620 49 50, open Mon-Sat 11:0017.30; Sun 11:00-15:00, www.teatrlalka. waw.pl This puppet theatre stages a variation of productions suitable for children aged 3 +. Scenery, props and costume design are impressive but Polish dialogue is challenging!

Losing the plot to hansel and Gretel can happen - prepare to improvise! Tip: organize a backstage birthday party.

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www. thelittlegym.pl Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

Manufatura cukierów ul. Tamka 49 (enter from Ordynacka), open Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-17:30; Sun 13:00-17:30, tel. 692 888 751, www.manufaktura-cukierkow.pl Sweet making courses in a confectionary factory!

Lessons are conducted in Polish, though enthusiasm is more important than a mastery

Warsaw Zoo ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. 22 619 4041, open Mon-Sun 9:00-18:00, www.zoo.waw.pl The hippopotami now have an indoor and outdoor pool, the gorillas a new pavilion, and the arrival of a shark means it now has an ‘aquarium’. This year though, all eyes are on

Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 9600, open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.zacheta. art.pl recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

educatioN

PRESChOOlS

american school of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW provides an American-styled educational program to

Open House March 5, 2014 9:00 - 10:30 a.m.

The American School of Warsaw is hosting an Open House for prospective families. We invite parents and children to come and see what’s happening at ASW during the school day.

RSVP: admissions@aswarsaw.org

The Open House starts at 9:00 a.m.

RSVP: admissions@aswarsaw.org ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna

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www.aswarsaw.org

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students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities.

For further information and/or to visit our school, contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

the British school early Years centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 30 months to 6 years old.

Children at the Early years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15. the canadian school of Warsaw – Preschool school unit ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The preschool branch of The Canadian School of Warsaw offers a bilingual environment based on the International Baccalaureate Program PyP for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities.

They’ve served the Warsaw community since 2000. CSOW have a new home 100 meters from Mokotów’s Dreszera Park and 300 meters from Ogródek Jordanowski.

All children are welcome, though space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

ecole antoine de saintexupéry ul. Nobla 16, tel./fax: 22 616 1499, www.saint-exupery.pl Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 2½ years old. the english Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:00-16.00, www.theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up C to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@ M theenglishplayhouse.com.

Y

Happy Montessori House CM Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, MY open 7.30-17:00, www.hmh.com.pl The happy Montessori house offers part-time and CY full-time places for children aged between 2 CMY to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered K around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising. i love montessori ul. Pląsy 39, tel. 500 501 105, www.ilovemontessori.pl I love montessori is an ecological preschool, located in a green and quiet area in ursynów.

casa dei Bambini & toddler school (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori school ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Maple tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a music and art program. Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

Their program, which is designed for those aged 1.5 to 6 years old, is devoted to the intellectual, emotional, social and physical development of children.

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cHiLdReN Międzynarodowa szkoła Podstawowa argonaut ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, open Mon-Fri 7.30-18:00, www.argonaut.edu.pl This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.

Montessori academy for international children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:15, ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, www.montessoriacademy.eu An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “three Languages” center ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), open Mon-Fri 7:30-18:30, tel. 517 872 682, www.3languages.pl The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

the British school ul. limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system. the canadian school of Warsaw – Middle and High school unit ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 600 247 655, www. canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuation of IB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

the canadian school of Warsaw – Primary school ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, www.canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuation of IB (International Baccalaureate)- based education for 6-11 year olds. highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra- curricular activities include visual arts (ceramics/pottery, art studio), music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer club, swimming, therapeutic gymnastics), foreign languages (Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

SChOOlS american school of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier college-preparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/or to visit our school contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

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ecole antoine de saintexupéry Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children two to eight years old (3rd year of primary school) in a welcoming family atmosphere. highly qualified native French-speaking teachers. international american school ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649 1440, 649 1442, Open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:00, www.ias.edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl The International American School of Warsaw provides

WarsaW InsIder | feBRuaRY 2014

pre-Kindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization.

Warsaw Montessori school ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www. warsawmontessori.edu.pl Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

caFes

Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, tel. 692 448 112, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00, www.fikumikucafe.pl This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children. The focus is on films and creative workshops. Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection. Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties.

Kosmos Kosmos ul. Koszykowa 55, tel. 535 558 552, open Sun-Tue 11:00-23:00; Wed-Thur 11:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest. The design fuses retro with rock, while the children’s area comes with a handmade puppet theater, cardboard castle and enticing kids menu. ‘Fun workshops’ take place at noon each Saturday.

Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561 or 502 683 246, open 10:00-20:00. www.kredkafe. pl The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows.

Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space.

Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www. nabocafe.pl The latest hot-spot on the family map, Nabo is run by a Danish couple, and its light and minimalist interior – designed by those who created r20 – lends itself to every occasion. But aside from its tasty and seasonal dishes, it’s the children’s corner that is causing the biggest commotion.

Reviews: HOT_elarnia Hotel & Spa 79

LIFESTYLE

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

ACCOMMODATION 79 / HEALTH & BEAUTY 81 / MEDICAL 82 / POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS 82 / TRANSPORTATION 81

ACCOMMODATION

Insider’s Pick

HOTELS IN WARSAW 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl H15 Boutique Apartments ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, www.h15boutiqueapartments.com

Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 or 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com

HOT_elarnia Hotel & Spa ul. Morenowa 33, Puszczykowo, tel. 61 898 3781, www.hotelarnia.pl

O

ut of the blue, my husband took it upon himself to singlehandedly plan a spa getaway for the three of us (baby too) over the New Year holiday. He was exhausted with work, I was pooped taking care of our little boy so he came up with the following criteria: no effort, relative luxury, proximity to some natural landscape and an easy commute.

Now Poland’s got its fair share of swanky spas, but decent roads are much harder to come by. So in choosing the dubiously dubbed HOT-elarnia, the expressway connecting Warsaw to Poznań was one of the most alluring promises. Located just outside of the city, the quaint farmhouse-inspired hotel is in a village right along a picturesque wood, but close enough to Poznań for some retail therapy.

We spent ten days at HOT_elarnia. Ten marvelous days of no cooking, instead indulging in unexpectedly top-rate meals at the restaurant: steak, venison and fondant galore. Ten days of no housework in a spacious, well-designed apartment. Ten days of skipping along the cosmic underground passage that mysteriously links the hotel to the spa. We each had three spa treatments spread over our stay as part of our room package. I couldn’t wait. My sleep-deprived body longed for a rubdown. My first treatment was a proper Balinese massage performed by a sturdy Asian woman who was strong enough to pry the tension from every knotted muscle. It was that sort of marvelous pain that leaves you begging for more.

My next treatment was a Hindu revitalizing massage, performed by a man who was, yes, from India. It was a pretty good massage but nothing really beats the Balinese – especially as the Hindu treatment involves a potent healing oil that leaves you smelling like a proper curry. Lucky for me, my husband doesn’t mind a wife as spicy as a Rogan Josh. Ten days later, we were so relaxed we could hardly stand it and perfectly able to face the new year in Warsaw with an open mind, supple body, happy belly and plenty of courage. (AMG)

Hyatt Regency Warsaw ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www.mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

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LIFESTYLE ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com Sofitel Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl

Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

3-Star Hotels

4-Star Hotels

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.com.pl

Castle Inn Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl

Radisson Blu pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl

Golden Tulip ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500.

Mecure ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl Novotel Warszawa Centrum

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, www.hiexpress.com Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000 Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl Hotel Reytan ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc. Prices ca. €290.

MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

Vision Apartments Al. Jerozolimskie 81/22, tel. 22 292 8888, www.visionapartments.eu Founded in Switzerland, Vision specialize in the rental of high-quality furnished apartments and are known for their commitment to service and style. Having evolved into Switzerland’s market leader in furnished living, the company is now in the process of establishing footholds throughout Europe with a presence in Berlin, Geneva, Munich, Warsaw and Vienna. Find their Warsaw apartments in Platinum Towers on Grzybowska.

B&B

Between Us Bed & Breakfast

BROUGHT TO YOU BY BIKRAM YOGA WARSAW

P

oland’s first official Bikram Yoga Studio is now open on Jana Pawła – a great joy for both you and the Baby New Year! Come in and feel what everyone is talking about – get on a great sweat and ditch the remnants of last year while you get ready for the one ahead! Up your natural electricity quotient in the healthiest and most sustainable way around.

A Bikram class is a series of 26 asanas lasting 90 minutes at 41 degrees Celsius. When it’s over, you’ll be floating!

Bikram Yoga Warsaw offers full locker room amenities including showers and locked, personal storage spaces. There are yoga matts and towels for rent or purchase.

Please visit our website at bikram.pl for a host of special offers to meet your every need.

Bikram Yoga Al. Jana Pawła II 61 lok.

305, tel. 888 204 020, www.bikram.pl

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ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www. bedandbreakfast.pl Chmielna Guesthouse ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, www. chmielnabb.pl

TRANSPORTATION CAR RENTAL

tel. 22 328 86 40. www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel, ul. Grzybowska 24, tel.

22 321 8888 Fitness club, swimming pool,

sauna, gym, group classes in one of Warsaw’s best five stars. zł.100 per day.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701 or 22 450 67 11. www.sheraton.com/warsaw Fitness center, aerobic studio, sauna.

Holmes Place Lifestyle Club at the Hilton Hotel ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 313 1221, www. holmesplace.pl Premium fitness and leisure centre that offers a wide and diverse range of activities, top quality training equipment and expert staff. Holmes Place also operates

Avis tel. 22 572 6565, fax 22 572 6566, Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360.

Reservations: tel. 22 500 1620, 800 143 789.

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, fax 22 511 1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, fax 022 650 2032, www.sixt.pl Trust Rent a Car ul. Marynarska 14, tel. 22 843 0580, mob. 602 475 355, 605 331 425, www. trustrentacar.pl

HEALTH & BEAUTY FITNESS

Holmes Place Premier ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841. www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland. Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area.

Their latest outpost in the Marriott also has a pool and has been updated accordingly to fit the HP quality check. For prices enquire direct.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental),

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LIFESTYLE two more Energy Clubs in Galeria Mokotów and Arkadia. Arkadia: tel. 22 351 9037, Galeria Mokotów: tel. 22 541 3333.

options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

Holmes Place Lifestyle Club at the Hyatt Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 22 851 0563, www.holmesplace.pl Not just for hotel guests, Holmes is one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw, with state-of-the-art machines, great pool and Zen-like ambiance.

Le Spa ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 9:00-16:00. This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

SPAS & SALONS

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, tel. 22 241 3000 or 505 828 688, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.pedicure-place.pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-last guest, www.haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel, level -1), tel.

22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite of the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing expert staff and top-quality products.

Sungate Beauty & Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 517 012 880, open daily 10:00-24:00, www. spasungate.pl A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments, manicure and pedicure, as well as a VIP room for couples.

Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404, open 10-22, sb 9-18. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries.

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160 or 784 677 618, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-15:00, www.bodyclinic.pl Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual

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MEDICAL MEDICAL PRIVATE CLINICS

Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

Ren Clinic Al. Gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok.

12A, tel. 22 414 2222 or 501 126 108, www. renclinic.pl Surgical care, cosmetics, medical dermatology, aesthetic medicine and more Lux Med Medical Clinics Various locations, see website for details and locations: www.luxmed.pl Malo Clinic Domaniewska 37 (3rd floor), tel. 22 393 6333, www.maloclinics.com/polska This world class dental clinic incorporates five dental offices, an operating room, two recovery rooms and a state-of-the-art diagnostic center.

Melitus ul. Słowackiego 12, tel. 22 833 7438, mob.

603 060 621, biuro@melitus.pl, www.melitus.pl Specializing in dermatology, surgery, phlebology, endocrinology, gynecology and internal medicine. The clinic is equipped with the latest and most innovative medical equipment and employs several renowned clinicians.

POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS Edu & More ul. Nowogrodzka 44 / 7, tel. 22 622 14 41,office@polishonlinenow.com, www. polishonlinenow.com Polish Language School incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable prices. Intensive & regular Polish

WARSAW INSIDER | FEBRUARY 2014

courses for beginners. Business & everyday Polish. Preparatory courses for the state exam as well as for the international ECL certificate in Polish. Morning, afternoon & evening classes.

Frog ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, tel. 22 403 7872 or 517 459 418, www.frog.org.pl Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish.

COMMUNITY Alcoholics Anonymous for Foreigners Meetings take place on ul. Radna 14 and ul.

Poznańska 38, tel. 725 204 904 buzzer #3.

Group meets Mon - Thu 18:30; Fri 20:30; Sat 9:30 and 11:00; Sun 13:30, www.warsawaa.org Amnesty International ul. Piękna 66a, apartment no. 2, (1st floor), www.amnesty.org.pl The Ex-Animo Foundation An organization that helps care for young cancer patients at the Children’s Memorial Health Institute - the largest children’s oncology center in Poland. www.exanimo.pl.

Expats-in-Poland.com Forum, news, free legal advice, extensive information and services for foreigners including immigration, work permits, driving licences, renting and buying properties, healthcare, education and more. For more information: www.expats-in-poland.com Food Banks All thirty food banks operating in Poland deliver food aid to those in need – as many as 5 million people. To donate food or get involved go to www.bankizywnosci.pl International Rotary Club The only English speaking Rotary Club in Warsaw. Visiting Rotarians are welcome to join the weekly meetings held at the Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45.

For info: tel. 601 897 731.

International Women’s Group of Warsaw Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings aheld on the second and fourth Monday of the month. For more info email iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com.

BROUGHT TO YOU BY CENTRUM GOLF

THE BEST GOLF COURSES IN THE WORLD… ARE IN WARSAW CITY CENTER! GOLF IS BECOMING MORE POPULAR IN POLAND: there are more golfers

and a growing number of high quality golf courses. Adding to that number is the indoor golf course at Warszawskie Powiśle, just a five minute walk from Warsaw City Center.

An indoor golf center is a great place to improve your golf, start your affair with it, introduce your friends to it or simply for some company or team building.

The Centrum Golf indoor golf center (2golf.pl) is located right in the center of Warsaw. You can enjoy a game on the most famous golf courses in the world, such as Pebble Beach, Torrey Pines, Troon North or Bay Hill, through the use of our incredible HDGolf simulators. HDGolf technology guarantees the best experience of playing golf, all year round. Players have a wide range of cutting edge technologies that support them in improving their game such as shot data, club fitting, and swing analysis with player locker. The center hosts winter golf tournaments and the only open golf league in Poland. This is a great opportunity to meet new people and have some fun. HDGolf technology guarantees the best all year round golfing experience.

And if you’re with the family, then there’s a restaurant next door for your enjoyment.

To book your tee time just visit us online or ring our call center at: tel. 22 428 88 84 Centrum Golf – Sklep & Symulatory Golfowe ul. Solec 18/20, www.centrumgolf.pl

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STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

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Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

Wa r sINSIDER a w I n s|i dFEBRUARY e r : 0 1 – 2014 3 1 M a r ch 2 0 1 1 WARSAW

Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2

CLASSIFIEDS

Uwodziciel Reżyseria: Katarzyna Warnke Występuje: Anuszka Konieczna 6-8 lutego 20.00 Bilety: 25-40 zł

Pożar w burdelu odc. 14 Degeneracja albo śmieci Warszawy Reżyseria: Michał Walczak 13-16 lutego 20.00 19 lutego 21.00 20-23 lutego 20.00 Bilety: 40-60 zł

Nowy Teatr Madalińskiego 10/16 22 379 33 33

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Patroni

Tel: +48 22 702 10 72

Stadion Narodowy

Żaryna Żaryna

Kulskiego Kulskiego

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WHY WARSAW?

LOVE FACTUALLY

Joseph, Music Industry For Valentine’s this year, we’ve decided we’re going to do exactly what we did when we first met – have a few drinks where we had our first date: Paparazzi. We’d met over the internet and arranged to hook up there. It’s a cracking place with a great selection of cocktails. Unfortunately, back then I was a bit of a lad and went OTT on the drinks. The wife, as she is now, did her best to keep up but ended up drunker than I was and puked in the loo. I was too drunk to even realize and thought she’d left, so having already fallen off my seat twice I went home and left her in the toilets. The next day I phoned her but she was fuming and hung up. It took quite a few text messages from me before she spoke to me again. This time round, we’ll try and be a bit more measured in our alcohol intake.

Jason, Real Estate Negotiator I met Magda at a leaving party for a mutual friend. I was being sick off a tenth floor balcony, yet that didn’t stop her from speaking to me after. Apparently she loved the English accent. The romance was pretty straight forward, though I did give her a honeymoon to remember. We were in Paris, and don’t ask me why, but I was bouncing up and down on the bed with her knickers on my head. Suddenly, bang, I hit the ceiling and knocked myself clean out. Next thing I know, and I’m waking up in hospital. As I was being discharged the next day, this stern female doctor stopped me, arched her eyebrows and held out the knickers: “and these I believe, are yours.” I’ve never been so embarrassed.

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WARSAW INSIDER | FEBRUARY 2014

Simon, IT Consultant I was married to a Pole long before I ever came here. In those days I was in the British Army and we had been moved to a new base in Germany. First night and we’re invited to an officers’ ball, so I’m there in my pristine whites, looking dapper and a bit like James Bond. Iwona, being one of those Polish women who frowns on heavy drinking, left early. I stayed on with the lads, getting a bit tipsy in the process. So much so, I couldn’t remember where I lived. My commanding officer took me outside and pointed in the distance. “That’s where you live, just across that field, but...,” he added, “do not cross that field – just follow the road around.” Ignoring his advice I decided to go across it, bursting into a sprint when I realized I was desperate for a, urm, No. 2. So I’m running full pelt when crash, I collide head on into a barbed wire fence. I was catapulted back and landed head first into a cow pat. Worse, I realized I’d ripped my nipple off and had had an accident inside my trousers. A major one. I staggered home, covered in blood and brown stuff, opened the door, only to find Iwona had put it on the latch. She was already half-way down the stairs, screaming at me for being a drunken pillock and how she wasn’t letting me in: “you can stay with those bloody friends of yours!” So, thinking on my feet, I yelled: “I’ve been shot.” She opened the door panicked at all the blood at which point I added, “only joking.” We divorced soon after. Twenty years on and I find myself in Warsaw, her hometown – we haven’t met, but I’m dreading the day I turn the corner and bump into her...

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

This month the Insider speaks to three ex-pats about being in love with a Pole.

Names have been changed to protect the innocent… and the guilty.