Warsaw Insider September 2012 #193

Essential Trends: Neighborhoods Burgers page 23

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Adventure Warsaw page 30

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to our readers

SEPTEMBER 2012

INSIDER’S TOP 3

New in town? Or welcoming someone who is?

Picking the right restaurant for that Welcome to Warsaw meal is a game of Snakes & Ladders there is no room for error.

The Insider picks three personal favorites.

TO NEW BEGINNINGS

T

raditionally speaking, September is a significant month for the Insider.

Marking a time when a fresh batch of ex-pats arrive to fulfill freshly inked contracts, it’s usual for us to kick-off with a disclaimer: something along the lines of, “cheer up, it isn’t that bad.” For the first time though, it feels like folly to do so. If membership of the EU in 2004 opened a new chapter in Poland’s story, the success of Euro 2012 announced a new volume.

Of course, in economic language 2004 will always be considered more seismic. But in wider terms it did little to dispel the international myth of Poland as a backward nation caught in a grey, wintry loop. You see, no matter how successful her trade figures were, Poland had a bit of an image problem. It took a football tournament to change that.

That it managed to do so went beyond a crafty marketing campaign and a catchy theme tune. For the first time Poland was afforded a chance to flaunt itself on a global stage, and it did so well – showing its true face as a gregarious, spirited country of warmth and hospitality. Newcomers: you’ll love it.

But while the rookies are taking their first baby steps around town, for the old hands among us September means something else… As the sun sets on summer it’s our one last window to enjoy it to the max. For that reason, the Insider has been busy hopping from one tram to the next as it endeavors to uncover the best Warsaw has. The upshot is our ‘Neighborhoods’ issue, an investigative peep into our six favorite areas.

Enjoy, and don’t forget to keep abreast of the hottest restaurant openings and bar launches in our weekly e-letter – do so by either hacking my mail or subscribing for free at: newsletter@warsawinsider.pl. Catch you next month.

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com

on the cover You are here! Whether you’re a newbie getting orientated or an ex-pat whose stagnated, this edition we explore six local neighborhoods to bring you the best they have to offer. Among them, the Old Town, which stars on the cover. See page 23.

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Atelier by Amaro ul. Agrykola 1 It’s got a waiting list, and price tags that give you vertigo. But pay heed: Atelier isn’t just the best Polish restaurant in Warsaw, it’s the best restaurant period. Tipped to earn Poland’s first Michelin star next year, the Atelier experience combines amuse bouche interludes with magnificent slow food and bespoke vodka. If ever there was a sign how far Warsaw has come, let Atelier be it. (AW)

Podwale Piwna Kompania ul. Podwale 25.

Whenever I welcome a friend or family member to Warsaw for the first time, I always include the usual Old Town sights ending with big beers and big food at Podwale Piwna. Last time my nephew had his birthday while visiting and I asked for only the waitresses to sing him Sto Lat. (KD)

Pierrogeria Pl. Konstytucji 2 Whenever my friends from abroad visit Warsaw, Pierrogeria is always on top of my to-do list. It’s not the best restaurant in Warsaw, but it’s hands-down the best place for pierogi. With a wide choice of sweet and savory, fried, boiled or baked, everyone is bound to find something they like; a great introduction to Poland’s culinary tradition. (ID)

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what’s inside

SEPTEMBER 2012

16

LISTINGS

Culture

Restaurants

07 O pener Marilyn Monroe’s Hollywood 07 Calendar Music, art and events around town 10 Museums Dates and shows 33 I nsider’s Pick Bacio

Cafes & Wine Bars

51 Insider’s Pick

Moments

INfront

FEATURES

80 Why Warsaw?

Joe Tunney of the BPCC

20 Architecture

Saski Palace

Editor-in-chief

Art Director

Editor

Editorial Intern

Publisher Advertising Manager Key Account Manager Distribution Manager

Insider’s Pick Bazar & Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra

Shopping

61 Insider’s Pick

Frenchy Store

13 News in Brief 23 Essential Neighborhoods

Polonia saved from death, OLT die, while Six of the best local districts

Warsaw’s palm lives on. Plus, news bites of Warsaw

from across the nation.

30 City Tour 16 Trends

Learning Warsaw’s secrets with

The search for the burger king

Adventure Warsaw 18 Relics of the PRL

Classics of Communism

Nightlife

55

Children

65 Insider’s Pick

Lalka Theater

Lifestyle

69 Insider’s Pick

Hot Dog Salon 77 Classifieds 78 Warsaw Map

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Iza Depczyk idepczyk@valkea.com Karolina Kalinowska Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Maria Pięta mpieta@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: Bartosz Bajerski Gill Boelman-Burrows Kit F. Chung David Ingham Michał Miszkurka Paula Rewald Agnieszka Le Nart Ed Wight

Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed with amichalik@valkea.com, tel. 22 678 9912

Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS tel. 022 783-6000

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2012 Warsaw Insider.

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WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Fully AirConditioned

Le Cedre

Lebanese cuisine

Le Cedre 61

Al. Solidarności 61 · Praga since 1997 Vis a vis Bears www.lecedre.pl Tel 22 670 11 66

Le Cedre 84

Al. Solidarności 84 · Centrum Centrum, Vis a vis Court Tel 22 61 88 999

Reviews: Marilyn Monroe’s Hollywood 7

CULTURE EVENTS 7 / MUSEUMS & GALLERIES 10

EVENTS THIS MONTH

Insider’s Pick

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AMERICAN FOOTBALL Europe vs America National Stadium If you are a fan of football (the American version), then this event pitches players from the Canadian Football League and NFL against their European counterparts.

Tickets from zł. 40, available at eventim.pl

CONCERT Japandroids Hydrozagadka, ul. 11 Listopada 22 Although originally meant to be a trio, this Vancouver act are now a garage-rock duet, with Brian King on guitar and vocals and David Prowse on drums and vocals.

Ticket price and availability unknown at press time, for info check out: hydrozagadka.pl

WORKSHOP Honeypicking at Warsaw Zoo Warsaw Zoo, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3 On September 1 the Zoo offers workshops on honey picking, followed by a class on the importance of bees!

UNTIL SEPTEMBER 7 EXHIBITION

Marilyn Monroe’s Hollywood by Milton Greene Stara Galeria ZPAF, Plac Zamkowy 8

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS OR ARTISTS

W

hile “Marilyn Monroe’s Hollywood” is but a small fragment of the vast amount of work shot by the prolific Milton Greene, the photographs on show capture the essence of Greene’s talent for revealing the private side of Hollywood’s “it” girls and boys. While these days his photography is touted as classic, back in the 60’s he was as cutting edge as they come, with his iconic images adorning the covers of Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue.

Sinatra, Hepburn, Minelli, Dietrich and countless other celebs have all posed for him, and while this exhibition features some of Greene’s other work, the core is anchored around Marilyn – catch it until September 7, after which this horde of photos will be auctioned off. On show are a fraction of photographs forfeited to Poland in the ’90s by an American businessman accused of defrauding the Republic.

While the Greene / Monroe relationship proved short lived, it was professionally fruitful. From their first meeting in ’53, when Monroe was just breaking out, right up until her marriage in ’57, the two collaborated on a number of projects: Monroe playing the role of muse and model, and Greene as the artist. This groundbreaking exhibition presents the two sides of this complicated legend: the international sex bomb and the vulnerable tortured soul. “The exhibition tells the story of Hollywood,” surmises curator Anna Wolska, “a factory of dreams for some, and a prison for others…” (ID) Free Admission. More info on www.zpaf.waw.pl

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FESTIVAL Festival of Jewish Culture: “Singer’s Warsaw” Aiming to recreate the pre-war spirit of Jewish Warsaw this annual festival is in its ninth year and climaxes early September. On September 1, theater: Just in Time to Pack a Few Things, 18:00 Pl. Grzybowski 12/16 and concert: Frank London & The Klezmatics, 20:00 Pl. Grzybowski. On September 2, concert: Michał Hochmann, 12:30 Club Mamele, Pl. Grzybowski 12/16 and the Grand Finale:

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CULTURE Frank London, Dawid Krakauer, Joshua Nelson, Theresa Towa, Matt Herskowitz, 19:00 Pl. Grzybowski, and finally A Lullaby to Remember, 22:30 Ghetto Heroes Monument, ul.

Zamenhofa. For the full lowdown, click: festiwalsingera.pl

CAR SHOW Inter Cars Motor Show Lotnisko Bemowo Much more than a car show, visitors can expect car stunts, drift races and concerts: including a performance by the talented Monika Brodka. Tickets from zł.

40, available from ticketpro.pl

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FOOTBALL TVN v Politicians Pepsi Arena ul. Łazienkowska 6 (Legia Stadium) Riding on the wave of the recent Euro 2012 tournament, the TVN foundation “nie jesteś sam” has organized a charity match between TV celebrities and politicians. Tickets from zł. 15, available at ticketpro.pl

WORKSHOP Painting Workshop Most artists will tell you that the

ability to paint is not something you can learn, rather something you are born with. Nothing more wrong than that, at least according to the art center Sztukarnia, which is organizing summer painting workshops. To learn or perfect your painting skills, apply at sztukarnia.pl. Four 3-hour sessions cost zł. 350.

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FESTIVAL Warsaw Swing Dance Festival Club Medyk, ul. Oczki 5 Rock and Roll, Lindy Hop and even some good old Boogie Woogie. The event will end with international dance stars William Mauvais and Maeve Truntzer shaking their thing. Tickets from zł. 10, available at swingevents.pl

WORKSHOP Kuduro & Afro Weekend with Czuza An entire weekend of intense kuduro & Afro workshops! A great chance to burn calories, get to know new moves and choreographies, and most importantly… have lots of fun!

Besides kuduro, there will be elements of other African dances, such as: coupe decale, kizomba, semba, funana, afro

house. For more information check: zoukizomba.pl.

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CONCERT Junior Boys 1500m2, ul. Solec 18 These boys mix everything from post punk, to disco, to techno to R&B and electronica – the list could go on. Tickets to the concert from zł. 40, available at muno.pl

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make it sound good. Support is provided by Ocean and Marina and the Diamonds. Tickets from zł. 165, available at livenation.pl

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CONCERT Jennifer Lopez PGE Arena, Gdańsk This hot latina will be performing for the first time in Poland, at the first concert ever at the PGE Arena. Tickets from zł. 99, available at ticketpro.pl

CINEMA Kino Muz National Museum in Warsaw The National Museum in Warsaw debuts its latest initiative: an on-site cinema screening art house films. Entry is covered in the museum ticket. For more info visit: www.mnw.art.pl

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Coldplay National Stadium This concert is part of the band’s international tour promoting Mylo Xyloto, their latest album.

Whether you rate this best-seller or not, the fact remains Coldplay could perform Crazy Frog and still

Redshape 1500m2, ul. Solec 18 Always wearing a red (rather scary) mask to protect his real identity, this dude is quite a mysterious character, so it’s clear to see why all the hip kids think he’s so cool. As for his music, it

CONCERT

CONCERT

Warsaw’s #1 English language magazine is now available on the go. Be the first to get the latest September edition: news, features, picks, listings and all you need for fast Warsaw living.

Free download, try it today! Scan the QR code on the cover, or visit the app store on your iPad.

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WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF ARTISTS OR ORGANIZERS

THE WARSAW INSIDER FOR FREE TODAY!

ARRIVING TO WARSAW IN LUXURY?

can best be described as dance influenced. For more info visit: 1500m2.com

you can write down your dreams and leave them by the new artistic installation Fantazja Mobile. A special jury will pick out the most creative one each week and will try and make those wishes come true at the open-to-all art workshops which take place in the last week of September. For more info check: facebook.com/OEM.LAZIENKI

OPEN-AIR FILM SCREENING

THROUGHOUT SEPTEMBER WORKSHOP Aerial Hoop workshops Free Art Fusion Dance Studio, ul. Miedziana 11 If you want to learn to float in the air on nothing more than a hoola-hoop attached to the ceiling then make sure to check out the Aerial Hoop workshop...

Admission starts from zł. 200.

For info contact: zapisy@ freeartfusion.pl, tel. 22 648 57 19.

WORKSHOP Fantazja Mobile Łazienki Królewskie If you want your wishes to come true, then visit the Królewskie Łazienki in September, where

Summer Film Capital Various Locations Enjoy enjoy films like “Milk”, “Desert Flower” or “Harry Potter” at various locations around Warsaw. If weather permits, most films will be screened outdoors. The first movie on show will will be “Tango” at 21:15 in Kępa Potocka on September 1. For a full schedule visit: www.filmowastolica.pl/ kalendarz/. Free admission.

EVERY SUNDAY CONCERT Chopin Concerts in Łazienki Every Sunday at 12:00 and at 16:00 you can come enjoy student and professional’s renditions of Chopin’s composition. Free admission.

EVERY WEEKEND DISCUSSIONS, WORKSHOPS Go Green at Jazdów The leading theme throughout these events will be ecology and the way to live a healthy and bal-

anced lifestyle. During weekends CSW guests will have the chance to take part in forums and discussions and all at the same table as artistic activist Rirkrita Tiravanija. For more information visit: csw.art.pl

WARSAW GOES TO THE DOGS

It seems September is filled with animalrelated events so the Insider has prepared a separate list of fun shows, exhibitions and competitions involving our furry friends.

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DOG SHOW Dog Chow Disc Cup Finale Pole Mokotowskie The Dog Chow Disc Cup Finale brings together ‘flying dogs’ from across Poland who will perform an array of music accompanied Frisbee tricks with their owners. The two day event also has a new category called ‘dog diving’ which entails fearless canines jumping into water.

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EXHIBITION Cat Exhibitions Exhibition Center in Hotel

Gromada, ul. 17 Stycznia 32 Whether you think your cat is a winner, or just like to look at cute, pretty animals, then check out this cat lovers dream. For more information check: kotyrasowe.org.pl

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SHOW JUMPING Royal Cup in Łazienki Królewskie Hipodrom in Łazienki Park One of Poland’s premier dressage events comes to be showcased in this historic park - the perfect backdrop to admire these beautiful horses. Free admission.

ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFFIC, GET ON THE OPEN ROAD AND EXPLORE POLAND WITH GREAT CAR RENTAL OFFER. Contact: +48 22 572 65 65 www.avis.pl

reklama W_INSAIDER_05_2012_v2.indd 1

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2012-05-18 11:19:37 facebook.com/warsawinsider

CULTURE MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Car Museum ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), tel. 22 758 5067, www.muzeum-motoryzacji.com.pl Approx. 300 vehicles all jumbled together like a broken jigsaw.

Highlights include the ’79 Pope Mobile, Stalin’s limo and cars used to ferry Marilyn and Elvis.

Other bits and pieces inc. vintage motors, a double decker bus and a US tractor from 1895. Mapped out with little rhyme or reason, it’s a hoarders heaven, with extra oddities numbering WWII debris, a 7TP tank, a red English phone box and a plane... Don’t make sense of it, just enjoy.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, www.kopernik.org.pl If you thought the Chopin Museum was space age then just wait till you visit this place. Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

September 1-9: Festival of Change. This festival focuses on people living in a city which is developing in a dynamic way, people who both observe and initiate constant changes happening in culture. Transformations are permanent elements of our daily lives and the artistic events of the festival will make it easier for us to get used to them… September 22-30: Science Festival - for more information, check the Science Center website closer to date (kopernik.org.pl).

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Annie Leibovitz, Yoko Ono, Wilhelm Sasnal, Andy Warhol). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals.

Ongoing until September 2: an

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exhibition of photographic work

by Tadeusz Rolke, Tavate, Luis Paredes, Malgorzata Potocka, and many others. Ongoing until September 2: “Battle of Berlin ’45”. A series of films showing battle scenes from Warsaw and Berlin. Ongoing until September 9: Retaliations. Video and site-specific installations which are designed to ‘provoke and disorientate’ the audience. Till 23 September: My Very Own Cinema, a retrospective exhibition featuring the multimedia works of Józef Robakowski, one of the leading neo avant garde artists of the 60s and 70s.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl A huge Insider favorite, the History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion – not least for the fab bookshop. While most titles are Polish language, there’s some fantastic photo books dealing with Warsaw’s past.

Ongoing until September 15: Janusz Korczak. An exhibition which aims to show the amazing work that Janusz Korczak did for Polish children of Jewish descent. Ongoing until September 16: White Eagles, Black Eagles: Polish and German football players in the shadow of politics, a photo exhibition. Ongoing until September 30: Poles by Choice. An exhibition focusing on families of German descent in Warsaw in the 19th and 20th centuries. Ongoing until October 10: In between the takes – The 1930s photography of Zofia Chometowska.

Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, www.mhw.pl The granddaddy of Warsaw

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film titled We Will Remember, it details the powerful story behind the destruction of Warsaw.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, www.chopin.museum.pl Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them his pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

The Great Football Exhibition Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 Aside from a seemingly random collection of shirts, pennants and scarves, the ‘great’ exhibition features such enigmatic plunder as ‘a plate with engraved signatures’, ‘a cup from the fans of Cambridge’, and, this is the best bit, ‘a shoe from the Croatian F.A., 2008’. No further explanations, nothing. Mystifying treasures aside, there’s a foosball table and a scattering of X-Box machines, not all of which are broken. Runs until 30 October.

Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113a, www.krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. After, check the sculptures set around the palace gardens. Ongoing: Skontrum: a collection of sculpture without titles or dates.

The idea is for viewers to form their own narrative. Ongoing until September 4: Sara Lipska:

In the Shadow of the Master. The exhibition presents the work of Sara Lipska, an extraordinary artist who expressed her artistic sensitivity through different fine-art forms. Most of her life was spent in Paris, and the avant-garde influences are clear; not least those of her icon and greatest love, Xavery Dunikowski.

Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com One for the lads. Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight).

Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide the visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl Celebrating its 150th birthday, the National Museum opens for business on the Night of Museums following a thorough refit. Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Ongoing till 23 September: The Dignified – from

the Pharaohs to Lady Gaga, is a great exhibition dedicated to the ‘iconography of power’.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), www.neonmuzeum.org A complete departure from the stuffy museums Poland is famed for, this long awaited projects brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city.

Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which dating from the 60s and 70s.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26 What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site.

Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Of interest, a brilliant interactive display of wartime Warsaw.

Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16 With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol.

Ongoing until 16 September, the 23rd International Poster Biennale. The four categories inc. social, cultural and advertising posters, as well as ‘golden debut’. View the works not only at the Poster Museums, but also in other Warsaw cultural spots.

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, www.muzeum-techniki.waw.pl The very opposite of the new-

fangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine.

Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Uprising. Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944.

And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk.

Zachęta National Art Gallery (Zachęta Narodowa Galeria Sztuki)

Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl One of the most famed galleries in the country, with a plethora of international and Polish modern art to peruse.

Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera. Until 28 August: Art Everywhere: showcasing the history of the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw, this exhibition aims to highlight that art really can be found everywhere – in shop displays, on matchboxes, at home etc.

NEED TO KNOW Museum hours (and prices) change way too frequently for our liking, so check indiviudal websites for the latest story. Note that many of these addresses close one day per week (usually Monday or Tuesday), and that an equal amount hold ‘visitor’ days once a week when admission prices are waived.

AMERICAN DREAM AT KLUBOKAWIARNIA GRAWITACJA The U.S. Embassy in Warsaw and Klubokawiarnia Grawitacja are pleased to invite you to a series of events devoted to American culture. The series will continue till 21st of September and will take you on a journey through the US to make your own American Dream come true.

The program includes: • Monday film shows (Sept 3, 10 & 17) • Sports and family picnics with BBQ (Sept 9) • Meetings with diplomats and experts (Sept 5, 12 & 19)

• Exhibitions “USA in your Lens” and “America on Screen” • American cuisine • Competitions with prizes • The “Los Sietes de Warsaw” Latin Jazz Band (Sept 8th)

Where?

Klubokawiarnia Grawitacja 6 Browarna Street (near The University Library) For more information visit: www.klubgrawitacja.com http://poland.usembassy.gov/

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A graduate of the prestigous Westminster College London, Botswanan born Joseph Seeletso needs little introduction.

A frequent fixture on Good Morning TVN, the celebrity chef opened Joseph’s last year, thereby achieving his ambition of having his own private space to create “heavenly combinations” of meals and wine. Set in a former warehouse, the cosmopolitan Joseph’s is the effortless epitome of ‘loft cool’, and has taken Warsaw by storm with a non-standard menu that reflects Chef Seeletso’s creativity. And it’s not just the level of Polish gastronomy that has been raised with the success of Joseph’s. Wine plays an equally key role, with sommelier Rafał Kiś on hand to aid with your wine choice.

• SUNDAY THEMED FAMILY DINNERS – UNIQUE MENU FROM DIFFERENT CUISINES OF THE WORLD CREATED BY OUR CHEF JOSEPH SEELETSO. • COOKERY CLASSES WITH JOSEPH SEELETSO • 700 WINE LABELS • WINE TASTING CLASSES WITH A QUALIFIED SOMMELIER • ON-SITE SHOP • LOYALTY PROGRAM Duchnicka 3 Street 01-796, Warszawa mob. 48 501 491 396, tel. 48 22 320 2988 duchnicka@josephwinebar.pl www.joseph.seeletso.com www.josephwinebar.pl

INFRONT ARCHITECTURE 20 / AVIATION 14 / CITY 14 / FOOTBALL 13 / NEWS 14 / PRL 18 / QUOTE 13 / TRENDS 16

QUOTE OF THE MONTH

GKS supporters protest potential merger with Polonia outside of Katowice's stadium.

FOOTBALL

PHOTOGRAPH FROM LEFT AGENCJA GAZETA, KEVIN DEMARIA

Back from the Dead

Fans of the capital’s oft neglected second team, Polonia Warszawa, have been through the mill in recent weeks, with fears that their side might crash out of existence coming within a whisker of reality. Back in 2006 the Black Shirts were bought by Józef Wojciechowski, the multi-millionaire owner of JW Construction, a move which many fans hoped would herald an era of success for Warsaw’s oldest club.

But it didn’t quite turn out that way, as like many football magnates before him it seems Wojciechowski was motivated more by greed and vanity than footballing success. In July, seemingly bored of his toy, he sold his stake in the club to Ireneusz Król, owner of southern Polish side GKS Katowice. This would, unbelievably, have allowed Katowice to take Polonia’s place in Poland’s topflight, with the Black Shirts set to be reformed in the fifth tier of Polish football. For some, this was viewed as karma coming full circle – Polonia, after all, played a similar trick on Dyskobolia Grodzisk Wielkopolski in 2008.

Polonia fans opted to overlook this, with a number of their faithful remonstrating outside JW Construction’s headquarters in central Warsaw. Luckily for them Katowice’s fans also weren’t too keen on the ‘merger’, and following demonstrations against the move Król was forced to reverse his decision. It’s unlikely this is the end of the club’s troubles, however. With a barebones squad, an empty transfer kitty and an owner with interests lying elsewhere Polonia are hot favorites to plummet out of the division. Still, the club survives, and as most football fans would agree having a club that rarely wins is always better than having no club at all. (DI)

“The government is repeating mistakes from communist times when public space was used for propaganda.

The government ignores cultural institutions in the name of money.

Dialogue with them is impossible and the illusion of any cooperation with artists is indeed an illusion” Joanna Rajkowska, designer of Warsaw’s palm tree

Warsaw’s palm tree on Rondo De Gaulle’a is looking bereft of leaves.

That’s actually a swipe at the commercialism the palm’s creator perceives has taken over town. During Euro 2012 a logo clad football was placed by it, and in protest activists stripped the leaves from the tree. At 10 a.m. on Sept 2nd it’ll be restored to its full glory following a procession. For info contact: palmawarszawska@gmail.com facebook.com/warsawinsider

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INFRONT

BRIEFING ED WIGHT’S NEWS BITES Come all ye Faithful More than 60 per cent of priests have a secret LOVER, a new study of clerics in Poland has revealed. And sociologist Professor Józef Baniak's report claims that up to 15 per cent of the country’s priests also have children. "Young priests have a very different attitude to sex and celibacy.

They don’t hold back when it comes to women," he explained.

It’s Moo-der

Crashed and burned Low-cost airline carrier OLT Express went to the wall at the end of July, leaving many Polish tourists stranded abroad and thousands looking for alternative connections. The airline had offered rock bottom prices and was a major hit with the paying public; but behind the scenes all was not quite above board, with the firm backed by the now disgraced lender Amber Gold.

And the face of both firms? None other than scheming 28 year old Marcin P., who in his previous guise as Marcin Stefański had been declared bankrupt following a conviction for defrauding zł. 174,000 from customers of his failed business Multikasy. (DI) CITY

Ride on time

Warsaw has joined the cycling revolution sweeping Europe following the unveiling of the new Veturilo city bike system. In return for a zł. 10 online registration fee anyone can now pick up a bike at one of 57 bike stations running from Bemowo in the north, down to Kabaty in the south. Prices rise depending on how long anyone spends on a bike, with the first 20 minutes free and the first hour costing zł. 1. There are currently 1,120 in circulation, with a further 1,000 set to be introduced in March 2013 when 70 extra docking stations will be opened. Losing one isn’t an option – that’ll cost you zł. 2,000.

More info at: veturilo.waw.pl. (DI)

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WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

Cock goes Bird-serk A jealous cockerel went BERSERK and put a farmer in hospital when it thought he was getting too close to its brood of hens. The 66-year-old poultry breeder from Łódź had been feeding his birds when the green-eyed rooster flew at him, slashing his hands and fingers to pieces with its razor-sharp beak and talons.

A local A&E medic said: “Cockerels can be very aggressive and this was one very angry bird. If I were the farmer, I’d turn him into soup.”

Bust-ed Hapless thieves who broke into a lingerie shop and made off with 70 bras and 20 pairs of knickers were A-BREASTED when police spotted them walking down the street with the lingerie sticking out of a backpack. “When questioned the men said they were presents for their girlfriends. But the lingerie was of all different sizes. It didn’t take long for them to confess,” said a police spokesman. The pair from Wronki now face 10 years in jail for aggravated burglary.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

AVIATION

A farmer who spent his life savings on 20 stud bulls has accused locals of murder after finding the entire herd dead from poisoning. The 60-year-old from Zbaszynek said: “They were fine went I went to bed, and dead when I woke up. The vet says they were poisoned. It doesn’t take a genius to work out what happened. Some folk around here are simply jealous but I’ll find out who did it and bring them to justice,” he said.

INFRONT

TRENDS

BY AGNIESZKA LENART

Burger Bites

I

t all started over the early summer with the opening of Burger Bar – basically a shack on a decrepit street in Mokotów. It was enough to launch a full-scale burger craze across the city, with a whole Facebook page devoted to the pursuit of the perfect burger. It is a delicate art indeed to serve up a perfectly grilled patty of premium meat on just the right bun, with a sliver of tomato or lettuce and a side of sauces, without getting too poncey about it. Simplicity is key, as is keeping the price just in the zł. 20 area – unless you’ve got a penchant for Wagyu and in that case, it’ll cost you at least another tenner. Coming up against usual suspects like Blue Cactus, the hipsters are showing everybody how it’s really done and lunch hasn’t been the same ever since.

Soon enough the mobile burger grills Bobby Burger, Soul Food Bus and Ma noże i może (Got Knives and

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WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

Skills) got the wheels going, bringing the most incredibly tender and delectable burgers to some of Warsaw’s most popular picnic spots.

Other trendy spots have picked up on the burger trend, including the super-cool Beirut hummus bar, which serves up a really decent signature version tucked into a pita. But the best burgers in Warsaw? My sources have divulged that the best of the bunch are to be found at Mr. Pancake (ul. Solec 50) and Lokal Bistro (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64) with its creative cod and camembert burgers. Others vote for Barn Burger (ul. Przeskok 2), while ‘opened at press time’ newbies like Charlie: Food & Friends guarantee the debate will run for some time. burgeryjemy.com www.facebook.com/burgeryjemy

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Ronald McDonald doesn’t stand a chance. In the space of a summer Warsaw burgers have gone from fast food quality to slow food standard.

INFRONT

PRL PAGE (’52-’89) Classics of Communism

SYRENA

PALACE OF CULTURE AND SCIENCE

MILK BARS

Poland’s original ‘peoples car’ is considered something of a rarity on the streets. Named after Warsaw’s iconic mermaid, production of the Syrena began in ’57, before finally being canned in 1983 – by which time half a mill had been built. Although the original models incorporated wooden frames and fire-engine water pumps, these little monsters won widespread acclaim; in the 60's driver Stanisław Wierzba snagged pole position driving one of these nifty little numbers in the qualifiers of the Monaco Grand Prix. Characterized by their trademark single lock (on the driver’s side), the Syrena remains fondly remembered by all nerdy enthusiasts.

Warsaw is getting increasingly tall, yet for all the towering corporate bastions the largest structure remains the Palace of Culture.

Completed in 1955 as a gift from Stalin first reactions tend to involve words such as “yeesh”. Standing 231 meters high, Poland’s tallest building features 3,288 rooms, including a special VIP zone built for Brezhnev.

Designed by Lev Rudnev, it’s a triumph of the socialist realist style and the 30th floor viewing platform is not to be missed. Loved and loathed in equal measure, nicknames for this formidable piece of real estate include The Elephant in Lacy Underwear, The Russian Wedding Cake and Stalin’s D**k.

Ost-algists the world over appreciate the phenomena that is the Polish milk bar. Usually distinguished by their foul, noxious aroma, these state subsidized canteens peaked in popularity during the PRL years. For the most part, they offer a predictable experience: on entry inhale a thick cloud of boiled cabbage, before ordering a lumpy dinner from the stern matriarchs peering through a hatchway.

Particularly popular with gnarled, wheezing oldies, the classic milk bar – or bar mleczny – has seen its star wane, though in recent years new-look privately run milk bars have made an appearance round town. Expect the same quality but none of the babbling mad people.

GAMES

Here’s something you didn’t expect – a board game inspired by queues and communism. Winner of the 2012 Board Game of the Year prize, the premise is thus: each player has a shopping list and the first to purchase all the items, wins. But, drat, if only it were that simple! Set in communist times, your quest for items such as Przemysławka aftershave is thwarted by limited stock and hazards such as ‘friends in government’ or queue jumping ‘mothers with small children’.

Originally issued by the National Institute of Remembrance, the games unlikely success has seen it translated into English, Spanish, German and even Japanese.

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WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Kolejka

INFRONT

ARCHITECTURE

BY ALEX WEBBER

Gateway to the Past

A

rchitecturally speaking Warsaw’s evolution has been dramatic and unpredictable, with influences ranging from the Luftwaffe to barmy Russian town planners. Had time-lapse photography been invented earlier, few cities would make more compelling subject matter than this place. The story of what is now pl. Piłsudskiego is especially gripping, and demands an active imagination.

Stepping out here one hundred years back you’d have been presented with a very different scene. For starters, planted bang in the square, you’d have found the Russian Orthodox Nevsky Cathedral: identified by five gold-plated onion domes and a 70 meter bell tower this was, at the time, Warsaw’s tallest building. Like the Palace of Culture in later years, it was also seen as a symbol of Russian dominance – when Poland regained its independence, it was one of the first things to go: between 1924 and 1926 over 15,000 detonations were fired off to erase this piece of Russia from the skyline.

Unbeknownst at the time, the explosive fate of Nevsky would also soon befall the palace that faced it. Once the private residence of the Morsztyn dynasty, Saski Palace was snapped up by Augustus II at the start of the 18th century with the King promptly issuing orders for its enlargement. Following the demise of the Polish monarchy the Warsaw Lyceum was established on its grounds, and the Chopin clan – Fryderyk et al – here.

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WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

Following WWI, a surge of patriotism ripped through Poland in the wake of her newfound independence. One of the results was an impromptu memorial commemorating soldiers killed in WWI and the Polish-Soviet war. Erected anonymously in 1923, outside the arcade that linked the two wings of the palace together, the Polish General Staff soon bowed to public pressure and took the decision to create a longer lasting Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.

The coffins of three unknown soldiers were exhumed from a military cemetery in Lvov and transported to Saski, and on November 2, 1925, a stirring ceremony marked the official inauguration of the tomb. By this time the palace was serving as HQ for the Polish Ministry of War, and it was here that German enigma ciphers were first cracked in 1932. Having sustained just light damage during the 1939 Siege of Warsaw, the conquering Wehrmacht soon utilized it for their own nefarious purposes. Alas, for the palace, the end was nigh. The 1944 Warsaw Uprising had infuriated Nazi top brass, and following its defeat they determined to leave the capital in a heap of bricks.

Saski Palace became an inevitable victim of the wholesale destruction, with only the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier surviving the dynamite. In recent times, plans to rebuild it have been mooted, with the zł. 200 million plan envisioning a Museum of Polish History on the site. That this project will ever be realized, however, looks increasingly unlikely.

PHOTO COLLAGE KEVIN DEMARIA. ARCHIVAL PHOTO AGENCJA FORUM

Poignant landmarks are plentiful in Poland; even so, the remains of Saski Palace are particularly symbolic of this nation’s discordant past.

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ESSENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS

OLD TOWN

POWIŚLE

PLAC ZBAWICIELA

MOKOTÓW

PRAGA

SASKA KĘPA

There’s a tendency for new arrivals to accuse Warsaw of being a bit ‘same-ish’. And true, there are whole ribbons of the city that are seemingly identical. The capital, however, is anything but one dimensional. It helps, perhaps, to think of Warsaw as a mansion of 500 rooms – some in disrepair, others in full glory, but all individual, and all worth exploring.

This issue, we pick out six such rooms, or neigborhoods, that merit introduction.

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23

ESSENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS

OLD TOWN

For those who think of Warsaw as a bleak, boring city, a visit to the Old (and New) Town is an eye opening event.

That it was rebuilt from scratch following near total devastation in WWII makes it all the more remarkable.

10:00 I’m a big kid at heart, as such you’ll find me arriving to Old Town one way and one way alone – up Poland’s first ever escalator. Depositing its human cargo load at the mouth of pl. Zamkowy, the ‘moving stairs’ as they’re known in local parlance, were completed in ’49 and still feature po-faced commie rules warning youths from repeatedly riding up and down.

With Old Town lying ahead, I recommend getting a bird’s eye view of it all by first climbing the 147 steps that lead to the terrace on top of St Anne’s Church (Krakowskie Przedmieście 6).

Hard work, but worth it.

10:30 The Royal Castle was obliterated during the war, and work to rebuild it was only completed in 1980 – you’d never guess. It’s interiors are worth a detour if you like gold brocade interiors and paintings of beardy nobility, but otherwise I suggest pressing on. Namely, make up the calories you’ve lost by popping into Sowa (Piwna 7), a candy store/ factory with rainbow colored lollies.

11:00 There’s a few galleries in Old Town, but most have their barrels aimed at tasteless tourists. Breaking the mold is ZPAF (pl. Zamkowy 8), a photographic gallery which will be showing a collection of Marilyn Monroe photos till Sept 7. They’re all up for auction, so you won’t necessarily be leaving empty-handed.

This page from top: luxury in La Regina, opulent St Anne's, shots away in Karmnik.

Opposite: the hightech Copernicus Center reinvents the tourist experience.

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12:00 Warsaw’s Old Town sq. is breathtaking. No other word for it.

With the clock chiming noon head into the Historical Museum (Rynek Starego Miasta 28) to view a 15 min film about the wartime annihilation of Warsaw. True, it lacks the oomph and the graphic wizardy of the City of Ruins presentation in the Uprising Museum, but it’s still hard hitting stuff. Unfortunately, much of the rest of the museum remains under renovation.

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

12:30 The 16th century Barbakan fortification connects the old town with the new, and it’s now possible to peer into its passages. By this time, the tummy is likely to be rumbling.

Get rid of awkward growling at Kompania Piwna (Podwale 25), a beer hall style space with portions that could be divided by ten and still leave you full. The food rarely extends beyond mediocre but it remains a must-visit rite of passage. Just avoid the bathroom scale for a few days.

13:30 A poignant memorial to child soldiers killed in the war lies around the bend, though having seen that wobble up Freta to peruse the antique stores and curiosity shops of Freta.

14:30 How about a spot of afternoon drinking? Most head back to the Rynek, though the real hero in this area is Karmnik (Piwna 4A). Choose from a hefty selection of Polish craft beers.

19:30 Dinner? Probably not after Kompania Piwna, though book into Fukier (Rynek 27) to view fairytale interors that have been enjoyed by the likes of Naomi Campbell and George Bush.

Prices are astronomic mind, and don’t necessarily correspond to the quality.

For a cheap dessert, join the (very long) line on the street for an ice cream at U Hodunia (Nowomiejska 7/9).

21:00 Walk off the booze by heading to the multimedia fountain park below New Town. The 30 min show includes lots of neon, music and weird things happening to the fountains. On the right night, you’ll find a crowd of thousands gathering for the spectacle.

22:00 Bed. And no-one does them better than the Regina (Kościelna 12), a boutique candidate for Poland’s best hotel. (AW)

POWIŚLE

Ever since they revamped the old railway terminal PKP Powiśle and turned it into a bar, Powiśle has been growing into the city’s hottest district for partying and straight chilling out.

The north side, just behind the University, has more of a cafécum-books student vibe, while Rozbrat’s leafy parks are home to a few of the most happening bars and clubs of the moment.

6:00 Just heading home from a wild night of dancing at Na Lato (Rozbrat 44), the latest watering hole on the party trail of Warsaw, located in the former Democratic Left Alliance HQ. It’s replaced Syreni Śpiew (Szara 10A) as the place to be. The walk home to Hoża is lovely at this time of the day, but it takes a while, especially if we’re stopping off at Plac Zabaw on the way to see if the DJs there are still rocking as the sun comes up.

13:00 Following the revelry of the night before I usually end up sleeping till about noon. Then I’ll cycle over to SAM (Lipowa 7) for lunch with friends so we can catch up on everyone’s weekend over some scrumptious organic eats.

15:00 We consider getting an ice cream at Lody na patyku (Lipowa

7A), but word around town that while these lollies may look pretty, they’re not actually all that tasty. I save my sweet tooth for a cone at Limoni later on in the day - I absolutely love the parsley and sesame with rosemary flavors. The best bet for a sunny day in Warsaw is a bike ride along the river, past the BUW rooftop garden and Copernicus Science Centre (Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20). If I’m thirsty I’ll get one of those all-natural colas at Cud nad Wisłą (between Śląsko-Dąbrowski and Świętokrzyski bridges) and admire the green bankside of Praga. On the way home I’ll swing by PKP Powiśle before making a much-needed detour at Limoni for that ice cream I’d been dreaming of all day long. Which only goes to show the magic of central Warsaw - everything is just a quick bike ride away, no matter where you start out.

17:00 No trip to Powiśle, however, can fail to overlook the former printing house on Solec 18/20. This is as creative as Warsaw gets, with design labels like celebrity favorite Reykjavik District and Love & Trade based here, as well as Ciech – a crazy bike store that specializes in making hybrid cycles using random different elements. Build your own bad boy!

Discuss your purchases in Sto900, a hangout with creaking floorboards and a diverse crowd of DJs, mom's and B-actors. However, this grubby looking graffiti layered building is principally famous as home of 1500m2. On Sunday afternoon, find this Blade Runner-style industrial space occasionally utilized for flea markets and fashion fairs. Otherwise, wait for evening to draw in to flail around to blippy electronica and other dance acts. (AL)

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ESSENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS PLAC ZBAWICIELA

I’m lucky enough to work just a thirtysecond walk from the big fat rainbow on Pl. Zbawiciela.

As Warsaw’s hippest roundabout, it’s chockfull of cafes, a few skips from Warsaw’s stylish boutique strip on Koszykowa and some of the city’s best parks Łazienki, Jazdów and Pole Mokotowskie 10:00 I hit up Charlotte really early in the morning when the hipsters are still snoozing and the croissants are piping hot out of the oven. I grab an Americano and a lemon-filled croissant to go and head to work at the Adam Mickiewicz Institute, the big yellow mansion on Mokotowska.

Mokotowska Street itself is the snazziest in the city, with all its ultrafancy boutiques and art nouveau townhouses.

14:30 Time for lunch and that’s always a tough choice between a sandwich at Charlotte (pl. Zbawiciela) or Karma (pl. Zbawiciela 3/5), a bagel at Funky (pl. Zbawiciela 2) or a Thai soup at Dong Nam (pl. Zbawiciela).

Usually it’s just coffee and a sandwich or freshly-squeezed juice at Ministerstwo Kawy (Marszałkowska 27/35) just behind the church. It’s my favorite of the whole bunch for two reasons - amazingly sweet staff and the delish flourless orange cake.

15:00 If the weather is nice I’ll stretch out my lunch break and head down

26

to Koszykowa to smell all the lovely scents at the Galilu (Mokotowska 26, enter from Koszykowa) perfume shop and see what’s new at the Frank A. boutique (Natolińska 3) or Bizuu (Koszykowa 1). If there’s a new exhibition on at the Centre for cont. art at Ujazdowski Castle I’ll make my way through the park and take a stroll through the galleries. I’m an art writer, after all, so I just chalk it up to research. Anything to avoid sitting at my desk. The Qchnia Artystyczna restaurant at the back of the museum is absolutely amazing if you have the entire afternoon to lounge away.

15:30 Eventually I’ll head back to work for an hour or two before I start getting antsy again. Then I take off for a bike ride to Pole Mokotowskie or I meet a friend for a cheap flick at Luna (Marszałkowska 28). This is probably

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

the stinkiest cinema in the city, but it’s definitely got the most charm. It was where I recently got a sneak peak of the new Polish surf documentary El Sueno. Of course, we’ll grab a shot at Warszawska (pl. Zbawiciela 5) on the way to start the evening off right.

18:00 By the time the evening rolls around the square is packed with people, particularly in front of Plan B (al. Wyzwolenia 18) and Charlotte. I’ll usually get a beer with some pals and see who else is around, swap some heated opinions about the Hollywood vs. the European indie movie scene.

I usually head home for dinner, but if I’m feeling too lazy to cook I’ll stop in at the new hot pot spot Shabu Shabu (Mokotowska 27) for some pho and stir fry. If I’m feeling rich I’ll head to Flaming & Co. for some Chablis and oysters (Mokotowska 28). Yum! (AL)

PRAGA

Warsaw’s east side is raw and uncompromising; not to say a pronounced contrast to the ivory towers many ex-pats hide in. Now in the grip of a radical renaissance, this once toxic suburb is home to a growing band of artists and creatives.

9:00 For me, Praga begins the moment I step off the tram at Targowa / Solidarności – the city looks and feels different; more Eastern, more Iron Curtain. The 19th century onion dome of the Orthodox Church is a nod to the former Russian influence, while on Pl. Wileński stands a military monument celebrating Polish / Soviet brotherhood.

9:30 No visit to Praga can start without first wandering through Bazar Różyckiego. Established in 1901 it’s a far cry from Warsaw’s glittery malls; here the 250 stalls sell everything from piping hot homemade pierogi to all kinds of goods of unverified origin – electrics, noxious aftershaves, plastic shoes and general junk that ranges from unwanted photo albums to sex shops signs.

10:00 The market backs out onto ul. Brzeska, (in)famously labeled as Warsaw’s most dangerous street.

At this time of day though problems are limited to bandit seven year old children screaming from courtyards.

I like this street though, not least for its weird wall art, its derelict, bombed out courtyards and the art studio at 17A. The owner has taken Amy Winehouse’s death hard, and his dusty, dilapidated studio is full of hand-crafted figurines of the departed songstress – from candle size, to life size!

10:30 I’ll head down to the new-look Wschodnia station, passing by the Sausage Dog – a 70s apartment block that’s achieved fame for being not just the backdrop for a Travis vid, but as the longest structure in Warsaw.

From here, it’s a cab to Soho Factory (Mińska 25).

11:00 This warehouse complex has been reinvented as Praga’s brain and hipster conscience. Home to

magazine offices, clothing labels and architects my reasons for dropping by are usually two-fold. First, to peruse the world of Cold War neon at the fantastic Neon Muzeum, and then to drop by the offices of my mates at Adventure Warsaw – it’s a crazy place full of communist debris.

12:30 Back in downtown Praga lunch is usually resolved with a flip of a coin – the Lebanese Le Cedre (Solidarności 61) or Porto Praga (Okrzei 23) for nouvelle Polish with an afternoon cocktail.

13:30 Having done my bit for the beltline I love a good nose around the backstreets; Praga’s never short of random, ‘ooh, what’s the moments’, whether they be the surviving Nazi bunker at Panieńska / Jasińskiego or the monument to the Praga band (Kłopotowskiego) which lights up in disco colors at night.

15:00 The essence of Praga is bottled on Ząbkowska, a street announced by a collection of Smurf-colored angels that sit by the crossroad. Nip into the courtyards to view elaborate courtyard shrines to the Virgin Mary (seen as impromptu places of worship during the war) and don’t miss cult, Boho bars like W Oparach Absurdu (Ząbkowska 6) and Łysy Pingwin (Ząbkowska 11).

16:30 The former Koneser Vodka Factory (Ząbkowska 27/31) is my finish line. A great example of Tsarist industrial architecture, this complex features the vodka bar Czysta Ojczysta, the weird art installations of Dorum Art (glowing, stained glass elephant, anyone?) and stores like Ceylon Bazaar, whose offer runs from handmade leather bags to vases made from boots. Across the road, finish off the day with a steaming curry at Himalaya Momo (Ząbkowska 36). (AW)

This page from top: Orthodox onion domes, courtyard shrines of Praga, Warsaw's favorite sausage dog.

Opposite: a view of Plac Zbawiciela from Mokotowska.

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ESSENTIAL NEIGHBORHOODS

SASKA KĘPA

Even the high rises on its periphery fail to put spoilers on Saska Kępa. Regarded as Warsaw’s ‘garden suburb’ its leafy back streets, classicist architecture and elegant prewar mansions make its postcode the most enviable in town.

11:00 Where to find Warsaw’s best view is a hot topic. Personally though, I’m championing Stacja Balon (stacjabalon.pl) by the National Stadium.

Costed at zł. 35 for adults, and zł.

25 for sprogs, the stationary balloon rises 120 meters in the air and stays there for 15 mins. Eye level views of Warsaw’s star touching skyscrapers await, as well as the opportunity to feel like Phileas Fogg.

11:30 Back on ground level and a detour to Park Skaryszewski is in order. In the old days Skaryszewski was, erm, scary, with lots of strange panting noises coming from the bushes. Today it’s been cleaned up, and is one of Warsaw’s most family friendly parks. A walk around the English style gardens takes in features like ponds and lakes, and not least a stack load of monuments: memorials to Poles who perished in 9/11, to an RAF plane shot down during the Uprising, etc. Finish your summer stroll with tea and cakes in Misianka, a former public convenience whose confectionary is legend.

13:00 Some refer to Saska as a ‘village within the city’ and a walk down ul. Francuska – the area’s principal high street – brings to mind small town Europe. Café culture reigns here, and I normally pop by Prosta Historia (Francuska 24) for a munch on their burgers: these guys had mastered them long before Burger Bar showed up in town.

This page from top: street food Saska style from Efes, gourmet burgers from Prosta Historia, modernist architecture on Katowicka. Opposite: Breakfast of champions at Śniadaniownia.

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14:00 Feeling flush? Then it’s Dom Polski (Francuska 11) for lunch. Expect swooning service in an elaborate looking villa. For a less formal occasion, the Italian food at Rucola (Francuska 6) is held in high esteem.

15:00 Browsing Saska’s little stores is a must, not least if you have culinary pretensions. To this end, I

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

never leave the area without a hunk of lamb from Le Diplomat (Meksykańska 6). Run by a one time Lebanese diplomat, this butcher store has assumed an almost mythical standing.

15:30 The architectural appearance of Saska sets it apart from the rest of Warsaw, and nowhere is this better appreciated than on streets like Obrońców and Katowicka. Lined with functionalist buildings, I traditionally lurk suspiciously by Katowicka 11A. Designed by Bohdan Lachert, it’s a brilliant piece of real estate clearly inspired by the back-to-basics philosophy preached by Le Corbusier.

16:00 Stop for drinks in Passe Partout (Zwycięzców 21). Interiors here look as exciting as a business class waiting lounge, but the garden is something else – for starters, it really is a garden, not some tables and chairs chucked onto a pavement.

17:00 Not that pavement eating is discouraged in snobby Saska.

Zwycięzców street provides enough evidence of this with holes-in-the-wall dedicated to a genuine German-style Wurst Kiosk (Zwycięzców 17), Tex Mex street food (Zwycięzców 11) and what’s commonly lauded as Warsaw’s best kebab: Efes (the corner of Zwycięzców / Francuska).

18:00 Drinking culture has evaded Saska, but that’s not to say it doesn’t exist. It does, and it can be found by following the hipsters to Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska (Zwycięzców 49).

Drink in obscure regional beers while lapping up foreign arty films and other cerebral happenings.

20:00 Tie in an event at the National Stadium (Poniatowskiego 1) and you have the perfect Saska tour. Holding 58,000, the basket shaped arena looks like it got zapped in from space. (AW)

MOKOTÓW

Few areas of Warsaw get cheered as loudly as Mokotów, and there’s a good reason for the fan club.

Preserved pre-war buildings mix with more modern efforts, plentiful greenery and bountiful shopping opportunities. Really, you need never enter the center.

10:00 You’d be forgiven for thinking Warsaw doesn’t eat breakfast – barring the obvious café mega-chains, the lack of decent venues can be alarming for early birds. Filling the gap are Śniadaniownia (Dąbrowskiego 38), with a pick-me-up menu that includes fried bananas with Nutella.

You’ve a long day ahead so you’d be certified mad if you missed it.

11:00 There’s oodles of oddities to browse in and out of, and these include the vintage comic store Centrum Komiksu (al. Niepodległości 148), and Grzelak (Puławska 36) – run by Jerzy, this antique watch/clock store is one-of-a-kind. Fans of vintage vinyl are catered for at Grubanuta (Łowicka 50), a cult record store that also features modern club sounds.

12:00 Newcomers don’t tend to think of Poland as a design conscious nation. Well, think again. I love thumbing through all the retro pieces at Reset (Puławska 48), admiring the film posters and checking out the new stuff they carry from upcoming names in the home design world.

12:30 Getting peckish? Where to begin. Restaurants inc. the ex-pat bastion Blue Cactus (Zajączkowska 11) and while the food isn’t always on point the surroundings never fail: order up a margarita on their sun kissed terrace. For something defiantly cliché check Galeon (Huculska 1), a crazy eatery where the maritime design extends to inside and out.

Personally speaking, I’m more inclined to head for a bagel at Bułkę przez Bibułkę (Puławska 24), but if you forgot to lock up the rug rats at home then pop by Kalimba (Narbutta 27A). Functioning as both a café and toy shop, this colorful haunt is a must for the family.

13:30 Back to the shops, and more examples of Polski design can be had at Fafarafa (Chodkiewicza 8) and Moomo (Chodkiewicza 7).

14:00 For some physical exertion puff your way up Kopiec Powstania Warszawskiego (ul. Bartycka). Built from rubble leftover from the Warsaw Uprising, this 31 meter mound is crowned with a memorial. Whether this is the highest point in Mokotów is open to question though – I used to love sneaking into the abandoned ski jump on ul. Czerniowiecka a bizarre derelict tower dating from the ’50s.

15:00 Alternatively, watch others do the exercise. A day at the Warsaw

races (Puławska 226) is the Polish equivalent to a day spent at Aintree.

18:00 In the form of Magiel (Stępińska 4) Mokotów has a truly iconic café/restaurant/bar hybrid that should figure on every exploration of this area. Set in a former launderette, its eclectic decorations hint at this past. The seasonal menu is a creative collection of slow food done well, and gets added points for an excellent selection of beers and wines 19:30 Live sounds are seriously underrepresented in this city, so a good music bar is handled as carefully as an archaeological discovery.

Looking sleek and cosmopolitan, Absurd 228 (Puławska 228) offers up a menu of diverse jazz and soul tunes. The results are often remarkable, even if the service isn’t always.

21:00 Functioning long before Warsaw got in touch with its alternative side, the red-lit Regeneracja (Puławska 61) has a retro, flea market look that attracts an easy mix students, ex-pats, hipsters and professionals. Lasting way into the night, the ride terminates only once an advanced state of drunkenness is accomplished. If that’s not your bag, check out Mozaika nearby (Puławska 53). Something of a communist relic, swing by on Saturday night to dance to Polish 60s hits – it’s a hoot! (AW) facebook.com/warsawinsider

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CITY EXPLORATION

SECRETS OF THE CITY

Sightseeing in Warsaw gets a new spin with Adventure Warsaw – think you know it all? Think again. BY ALEX WEBBER

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raditionally I’ve given guided tours a wide swerve.

But that’s because traditionally, sightseeing in Warsaw has been monopolized by Snore Tours and other somber bore fests. Recently though, a growing number of people have recognized that tourism shouldn’t be about ticking boxes off an itinerary, and more about fun – about bringing history alive through meeting real people, with real stories; about looking under the covers and searching out the obscure.

One such believer is Rafał, the pioneering brain behind Adventure Warsaw. “Look, four years ago I thought there was nothing to see here,” confesses Rafał. “But then I began an urban planning course and wrote my thesis on how the city would have developed had it not been for communism.” To cut a story short, the more he researched the city, the more it fascinated him. “At first I found myself telling friends about Warsaw, driving them about pointing out secrets of the city. After a while, I figured why not do this for a living.”

Why not indeed. And to meet this end Rafał has a few secret weapons up his sleeve. First out of the trap, is a

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WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

fleet of knackered 1980s vans once used by the Militia.

Rolling about town in one of these big bruising babies is worth the price alone. Then there’s his office, found in a derelict looking warehouse in Soho Factory. “I call this our museum,” quips Raf, and it’s not hard to see why. What looks like a cobwebbed, shabby garage from the outside transpires to be a Bat Cave of retro gadgets and gizmos: posters, soda bottles, police batons and radio sets. But that’s the tip of the iceberg. Among the loot, Rafał is proud to reveal a wooden cabinet that fulfills a secret function as a vodka stash, as well as a series of magazines and albums celebrating the past – among them, a 1950s guide to the Palace of Culture. “On occasions,” Rafał adds, “we beam black and white propaganda movies onto the wall.”

Usually, tours with Adventure Warsaw kick-off on pl.

Grzybowski, an architectural crossroads that takes in the Palace of Culture, as well as patchwork of old and new Warsaw. This time though, Raf has arranged to start in Praga, partly to sell what he rates as Warsaw’s most exciting part: “I like it so much I’ve moved down the road.”

His focus on human interaction is immediately appar-

ent with the first stop being a delicatessen on Brzeska.

Once reputed to be Warsaw’s most dangerous street the welcome the owner affords him is one usually reserved for an all-conquering hero; within seconds, I’m weighed down by strings of complimentary kiełbasa and a plastic bag sloshing with stinky gherkins.

It’s not just here that he gets the superstar treatment.

We shortcut through decrepit, abandoned courtyards, before arriving to Bazar Różyckiego – an open-air market retailing everything from wedding dresses to, apparently, pistols and passports. In normal circumstances I’d bring a tin of tear gas to a place like this, but with Rafał you know there’s no need. “Witam,” yells out one of Raf’s contacts, a leathery-looking old geezer draped in Mr T. medallions.

Another trader joins in the banter, showing off her latest stock of Red Army issue hats. “Of course it’s not what it once was,” confesses Rafał, “but even so you’ll still get real characters working this market – you know, once some bloke offered to sell me it for €200,000.”

Back in the van, we pootle past other areas of Praga; bullet-scarred neighborhoods with sketchy characters lurking in the shadows. We pass preserved wooden houses, elegant churches and courtyard shrines, before heading to the center, Rafał delivering his expert commentary without stumbling once. Finally stopping on Emilii Plater, it’s here Rafał really excels himself, revealing sides to Warsaw I never knew existed – the graffiti work of a famed Belgian artist, for instance. The best though, that’s saved for ul.

“ What looks like a cobwebbed, shabby garage from the outside transpires to be a Bat Cave of retro gadgets and gizmos” Lwowska, in particular a secret palace found through the courtyard of No. 13.

“People visit all these Warsaw palaces that were rebuilt after the war,” says Rafał, “without ever thinking about this one. But this one is authentic – it survived intact.”

Built in 1912, it was in turn used by the Gestapo and then as an insurgent field hospital during the Uprising. Thanks to Rafał’s quick talking the conservationists restoring the building allow us to wander unmolested through its interiors, and we shuffle awestruck through dazzling chambers home to frescos and reliefs – even a 19th century Turkish bath. “To see the real Warsaw,” Rafał concludes, “You need to get off the beaten path. You need to get under its skin.” How right he is.

Adventure Warsaw ul. Mińska 25, tel. 606 225 525, www.adventurewarsaw.pl

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BROUGHT TO YOU BY: ENOTEKA

Outstanding Amarone from Le Salette

WARSAW INSIDER READERS CAN CHOOSE FROM A SELECTION OF THESE THREE OUTSTANDING WINES:

My visit to the Le Salette winery will live in my memory forever thanks to enormous hospitality, a great dinner and a fantastic Amarone Pergole Vece 1993! by maciej bombol, owner of enoteka

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alpolicella is a historical area, north west of the town of Verona and close to lake Garda. The name Valpolicella is derived from a mixture of Latin and Greek as means, “the valley of many cellars”. The Valpolicella area is famous mostly for Valpolicella, Recioto and Amarone wines which are made from autochthonic grapes such as Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella.

Azienda Agricola Le Salette is owned by the Scamperle family, one of the historical winemaking families of Valpolicella. The story of the Scamperle family tells us about decades of love for the land as well as a passion for making wine. Indeed, for generations the Scamperle family has dedicated itself to growing grapes, and to gradually increasing the number of grapevines. Today the family owns twenty cultivated hectares, situated among the most renowned places of the Valpolicella Classico DOC area.

The vineyard has grown slowly and carefully, always respecting the local technique which is sensitive to nature and has followed nature’s rhythm to bring out the originality and characteristics of the grapes. The Scamperle family have followed their own production philosophy and consequently have assigned a sort of "birth certificate" to every type of grapevine. Their goal has always been high quality.

The most famous wines from the Valpolicella zone are Amarone, which are made from selected superior whole bunches, which are dried or raisined in special drying lodges or chambers. Amarone wines from Le Salette (Amarone Classico La Marega and Amarone Pergole Vece) are greatly appreciated by the world’s critics. La Marega and Pergole Vece regularly receive 92-96 points from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. At a Decanter panel tasting in April 2012 Amarone Pergole Vece 2007 was only one of eight Amarone wines (out of 91 tasted) awarded the five star “Decanter Award”.

The importer of these wines is Enoteka Polska, ul. Długa 23/25, Warsaw tel. 22 635 55 10, www.enotekapolska.pl Enoteka is one of the best restaurants in Warsaw, ranked at 8th position amid 650 venues in Warsaw by TripAdvisor

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Valpolicella Classico DOC 2010 (a value for money Valpolicella priced at only zł 43.50)

Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso I Progni DOC 2009 (a dense, creamy Valpolicella Ripasso priced zł 67.50)

Amarone Classico Pergole Vece DOC 2007 (a top Amarone, 94 Robert Parker for zł 237.75 – cheaper than in Italy)

Reviews: Bacio 33 / Plus:

* 2 updates

RESTAURANTS

AFRICAN 33 / AMERICAN & TEX-MEX 33 / ASIAN 34 / BALKAN & RUSSIAN 36 / BRITISH 36 / FRENCH 36 / FOOD SHOPS 50 / GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN 37 / HOME DELIVERY 36 / INDIAN 37 / INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 38 / ITALIAN 42 / JAPANESE & SUSHI 46 / JEWISH 46 / LATIN 46 / POLISH 47 / SEAFOOD 50 / STREET FOOD 40

KEY

Insider’s Pick

$ zł. 30 (per main)

BOW 2011 Winner.............

Breakfast menu .............

Business meetings.......... $$$ over zł. 55 Child friendly...................

Insider writers do Delivery............................. not accept any Free wifi.............................. form of payment in Map location pg. 78 ...... (A1) return for favorable Romantic.......................... reviews.

Vegetarian friendly........... $$ zł. 30-55

AFRICAN

PHOTOGRAPHS: THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPPOSITE PAGE COURTESY OF ENOTEKA

Bacio ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, www.bacio.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00.

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ometimes what is befitting of a Venetian brothel isn’t appropriate for a restaurant.

That was the case with Bacio, a fine Italian eatery, but one whose gilded ornamentation was often louder than the food. Embellished with cherubs and vines, birdcages and plants, the sensory overload hung heavily over final impressions. So, how about this: the artwork has gone (on a bonfire, hopefully), and the restaurant stripped bare to its brickwork.

And with these simplified aesthetics, this ailing giant has recovered much of its balance.

True, other factors have contributed, not least the installation of Marcin at the front of house. A charismatic conversationalist, his presence alone ensures the smooth running of the evening. Even so, I opted to ignore Marcin’s recommendation for starters (caramelized fig), choosing instead the salmon tartar. Served on a (very) generous bed of avocado, this was exactly what was needed on a steamy Warsaw night. My sidekick, an Italian/American, was left equally convinced by eggplant and cheese served in a rich tomato sauce. Mr Soprano’s main – tagliatelle with asparagus and sun-dried tomatoes on rucola – won similar approval.

Now back in June the new management held a ‘re-launch party’ for select members of the ex-pat world; the event was a resounding success. It wasn’t just the mischief that was memorable though, so too was the duck. But how would the chef handle this tricky bird on a less glorious occasion? The answer surprised me – it was even better than before. Complimented by a rich red wine risotto, he’s mastered a sensational main that warrants big marks.

One aspect of cookery he has yet to master, however, is self-control. Yes, it really is possible for a restaurant to serve too much food. I know for fact that the panna cotta here is sublime, but this time it didn’t get a look-in. Bigger than enormous, the mains left me debating which wall to knock down to enable me to leave – forget a doggy bag for leftovers, a body bag would be better. But with a bit of fine-tuning on the portions, consider Bacio as one of the best. (AW)

La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. The exteriors don’t go beyond some tribal paintings and exotic lamps, while parts of the menu will frighten the life out of you – baked cow back, for example, sounds like a cooked spinal cord.

Our beef/tomato stew was excellent, but the goat meat saw plenty of tactical napkin use.

And good luck with the gizzard. $$

AMERICAN & TEX-MEX Amigos American Steakhouse (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 22 629 3969, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00.

Sometimes, all you need is a good steak to make everything okay. This is not the place to find one. Usually disappointing, occasionally catastrophic, this Wild West eatery gets nil points for style, and even fewer for service. $$ Barn Burger (D4) ul. Przeskok 2, tel. 512 157 567. Open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00. From the outside Barn Burger looks like just the low-rent eatery you’d do well to avoid. Whatever you do, don’t.

Pandering to Warsaw’s newly discovered appetite for burgers, the menu includes the scary looking ‘heart burger’ and something called a ‘muppet burger’ – filled with salsa, jalapenos and BBQ sauce. Hereford rib eye steaks and chunky chips served in a metal

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RESTAURANTS pot lend weight to growing claims this is Warsaw’s top burger joint. $ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$ Dos Tacos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, www. dostacos.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:0024:00. Warsaw’s newest Tex Mex outing has been earning perfect 10s from the Insider’s who’ve visited. $ Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00.

Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, this leviathan touts excellent burgers and a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls. Rock’n’roll swag numbers Joplin’s blouse, Prince's guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, www.jeffs.pl.

Open 10:00-24:00. Warsaw’s best breakfast aside, head to Jeff’s for megasize portions of American classics of the burger-ribs variety. Find their twin branch in Galeria Mokotów, along with an identical roadhouse design of blinking neon. $ Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, www.sioux.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00. You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef.

Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. After a summer sabbatical, SPE are back, touting a new edgy look that makes use of concrete colors and exposed pipes. The spicy, sizzlin’ Tex-Mex is fab, and added incentive provided by the rousing rock bands. $$

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Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory. pl. Open 12:00-last guest. The habanero salsa looks and tastes like molten lava, and is just right when paired with their hefty burritos. But it’s more than Warsaw’s premier Tex Mex joint; a firm ex-pat bastion, the barometer goes off the scale at weekends when live bands entertain a mixed bag of jiggling foreigners and hot locals. $$

ASIAN Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120.

Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Bar Sajgon (D4) ul. Bracka 18. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00.

A cult budget eatery once found in the defunct Russian Market. Two years after the original went pop they’re back with a neat looking effort on Bracka. Decorated with palms and mint colors, this double decker restaurant gains particular approval for its pho dishes. $ Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. ul. Twarda 42 (off Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$

The spring rolls may “taste Polish,” but more authentic are the Cantonese loin in oyster sauce, the Tshingis Chan Mongolian Grill (all-you-can-eat for zł.65) and the succulent Peking Duck. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, www.chinagarden.pl. Open daily 12:0022:00.Allegedly the first Jiangsu cuisine restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes at the China Garden are indeed unique. On show here is everything from bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts, goose jaws and stewed bull’s penis with radish – I dare you. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. Another Vietnamese joint, this one notable for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers.

At 2 zlot per pop, there’s no excuse to miss it. $ Little Thai Gallery (D3) Pl. Dąbrowskiego 2/4, tel. 22 827 4410, www.littlethaigallery.pl . Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. High gloss violet interiors and cute elephant candle holders lend this place no shortage of style.

The food can be a hit and miss affair, though the curry dishes are usually every bit as good as they sound. So too the green tea ice cream. $$ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, www.lovinghut.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. $

Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:0022:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system.

Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster.

The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$

Natara (B3) Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 666 101 500.

Open 10:00-22:00. With a few wilting orchids and some symbolic pics of Buddha this bi-level restaurant won’t be in the running for any style prizes. The food is spot-on though, and after a brief panic during which we considered ordering everything – it all sounds so good – the Insider settled for duck in wine and a classic green curry. The results were outstanding: rich, velvety flavors and complex tastes. $$

Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00.

The Oriental (E5) The Sheraton Hotel, ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 18:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

16:00 (brunch). Dark, intimate and very quiet hotel restaurant serving Thai, Philippine, Singaporean and Japanese dishes. The waiters are well versed in what the menu offers, so trust their recommendations. $$$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Sunday Brunch” Winner Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00.

Papaya’s uncluttered, contemporary club-style space is classy with hints of luxury imparted by the strategically placed, top-notch cognac and sparkling wine. The Pan-Asian menu favors Thai and Japanese, but there’s also Chinese

dim sum and Peking Duck. $$ Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, www.sunanta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Small but perfectly formed interiors and a menu that’s widely hailed by Thai devotees. The green beef curry is outstanding. $$

Suparom Thaifood II ul. Wałbrzyska 40, tel. 22 853 3087, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$

Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$

Tien-Tien (C2) ul. Długa 29, tel./fax 22 635 3888. Open daily 10:00-22:00. A stained and seedy haunt that will look immediately familiar to readers who’ve strayed before inside Warsaw’s Vietnamese joints. Some rate the food - we don’t. $

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RESTAURANTS Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option.

Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0000, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland.

Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24hr pizza delivery options also available.

Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl.

Deliver to over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers.

Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sense, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory.

Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl.

Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts). Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus.

Restaurants covered by this mob inc. players such as India Curry, Na Zielnej, Osteria, Papaya and Sakana.

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Yummy (D5) ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. The Insider’s favorite budget Asian eatery, even if the empty tables suggest dark forces at work in the kitchen. Modern and minimal, the lemon chicken is delicious. $

BALKAN & RUSSIAN Banja Luka (E8) ul. Puławska 101, tel. 22 854 0782, www.banjaluka.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00.

The summer’s creeping back, and with it one of the best gardens in the biz – if that’s full though, enjoy numerous dishes from Croatia and Serbia inside interiors typical of the hunter’s hut style. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040, www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00.

This is one of those places that you enter knowing straight away that you want more.

Try the bacon-and-tomato-scented Solanka soup and the pielmieni “Moskiewskie.” The no-frills interiors buzz with vodka tinged high jinks. $ Gemo ul. Minska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 22 468 1876, www.gemorestaurant.pl. Open 12:00last guest. At last, a Georgian restaurant without gnarled furniture and peasant fabrics. Located inside Soho Factory, Gemo has severe, industrial style accented further by steel lights and exposed pipework. The menu is modestly priced, yet includes several dishes to return for: the szaszlyk, for one. $ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, www.umadziara.pl. Open 11:00-21:00.

Looking at it you wouldn’t expect much, but there’s a reason the homely U Madziara has won the applause of Maciej Nowak – Poland’s toughest food critic. That reason is Gabor, a top chef who’s happy to join customers for a drink… but only after he’s done the biz in the kitchen. The salmon tartar is a great starter, but nothing compared to his signature goulash. Good luck finding a better deal in Warsaw. $ Varna (D6) ul. Lwowska 4, tel. 22 468 8792. Open 12:00last guest.There’s a few Bulgarian joints in town, but none that look this good; decorated with rich, ruby colors and Balkan embroidery

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the interiors are primed for an all-singing Balk-fest. The menu is cheap and cheerful, with the full list of hearty, homey classics. The musaka is peerless. $

BRITISH

The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub. pl. Open 8:00-1:00. The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsummer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team.

What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

FRENCH Bistro de Paris – Michel Moran (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 0107, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00. Bistro de Paris has always won the highest accolades from reviewers ranging from the Insider to Michelin. Here the food is exquisite, dynamic and flawless; whilst the service itself shines through all on its own. Perfect for dinner with the boss or wining and dining clients. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www.larc.pl. Open 10:00-last guest. An elegant white/black eatery with elaborate plate presentations and crustaceans lurking in the water tank – the house specialty is lobster, and they’ve got it to a tee. $$ Saint Jacques (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. 22 620 2531, www.saintjacques.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Warsaw’s had a long liaison with France, yet the cuisine remains under-represented. This bistro plays the right notes with an intimate interior sprinkled with street signs and life-size black and whites of distant day Paris. $$

Willa Borówka Hotel & Restaurant (Milanówek)

ul. Królowej Jadwigi 5, tel. 22 425 3881, www.willaborowka.pl. Restaurant opens Mon 17:00-last guest; Tue-Sun 12:00- last guest. A wonderland outside of Warsaw. This beautifully-restored manor offers a wonderfully rich atmosphere and wonderful Belgian and French cuisine with delicious beers like the Blanche de Namur. $$

GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN El Greco (B3) ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. 22 654 0458. Open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. The grapevine was right – there’s a new Greek in town and it’s the best of the bunch; the souvlaki are ace and the interiors modern, intimate and a pleasant departure from the Greek caricature.

Plate smashing allowed and encouraged. $$

Le Cedre (F1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl.

Open daily 11:0023:00. With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$

Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, www.lecedre.pl. Open 11:00-23:00.

Legendary Le Cedre have a new venture, and this one looks even better than the original over the river. Deep plum colors work well inside, and we recommend turning up with a group of friends and splitting the Baalbak (six cold starters) or Byblos (six hot starters) menu. Aside from a candid A-Z of this cuisine, it’s a great opportunity to cover the tables with fancy little plates before causing a right mess amongst you as you share and share alike. $$ Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067. Open 12:00-23:00. Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$ Samira (C7) Al. Niepodległości 213 (behind the National Library), tel. 22 825 0961, www.samira.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00.

If you make the effort to find it, you’ll spot ambassadors, celebrities and artists scarfing down their excellent Lebanese kofta. Here you will find chickpeas, tahini paste, bulgar wheat, grape leaves, rose and orange flower water. Fresh cheese (Lebanese and Bulgarian) can be bought by weight from the deli counter. $

Santorini (Saska Kępa) ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Forgetting the rather dubious exterior, Santorini – decorated like a Greek fishermans tavern – remains one of the top restaurants of its ethnic class. The lamb chops are fab, but for a real plate licking experience order the milfei as dessert. $$ Tawerna Patris Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 22 357 11 11, www.tawernapatris. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

Looking dusty and disheveled from the outside, Tawerna surprises everyone who visits. Decorated with white plaster walls and pics of Greek harbor towns, the seafood starters are something else. It’s impossible to judge what’s better: the mussels in tarragon or the marinated octopus. With prices this moderate, we suggest you order both. $$

INDIAN Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777.

Open 11:00-23:00. A definite applicant for Poland’s best looking Indian, and instantly superior to Warsaw’s more shabby curry houses. The tikka masala is love at first bite, though the spice lever on the Madras needs jacking up. $$

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RESTAURANTS Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $

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Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774. Impossible to locate and rather seedy looking, this remote Indian impresses nonetheless with red hot Madras and delicious tikka masala. If only they could move closer…

Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. When the service isn’t clanking around, dropping things or misplacing orders, they’re weaving between tables delivering what’s a definite candidate for Poland’s top curry. Inconsistencies abound, but the Madras is superb and the interiors chic, dark and moody. $$ Ganesh Express (A4) ul. Grzybowska 61, www.ganeshexpress.pl.

Open 10:30-22:30. Dinky, readymade portions aimed for a lunch-on-the-run crowd. Yes, the meals are pre-cooked, but the standard has been raised, alcohol introduced and the prices moderated. $ Himalaya Momo (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 36. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-21:00; Fri-Sun 10:00-22:00. Tiny Indian puppets hang from indigo walls inside what some term as Warsaw’s best Eastern food. The point is moot, but nevertheless disappointments are rarely found on the Tibetan/Indian menu. Only four tables, so don’t linger. $ ul. Żurawia India Curry (D5) 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www.indiacurry.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Under new management, Warsaw’s most upmarket Indian restaurant is the corporate choice for when suits want it hot.

Never short of excellent, the prawn curries are something else. $$ Maharaja India (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily, unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is amongst the best in the city. $$

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Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 Whether the Madras is Poland’s hottest curry is a moot point (we say not). What isn’t up for debate is its popularity. Keen portions ensure you’ll be leaving with a doggy bag, and while we’ve yet to have anything outstanding, neither have we experienced anything under par. Internet ordering and delivery through their India Express catering service. $ Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl.

Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $ Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, www.saffronspices.pl.

Open 11:00-23:00. Set on two floors Saffron has a menu more limited than most, though they have at least finally introduced alcohol.

The murgh makhani is fiercely inconsistent, and the chicken, in the words of one reader, ‘strange’. Nonetheless, we like it – when the chef does get it right, this place scores well. $$

INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 12 Stolików (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 519 151 504. Open 9:0023:00. Affecting a chichi style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles and autumn leaves. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that embraces the credos that cooking should be theater. The menu comes chalked up on a board, and while the alio olio was a little overcooked, the big guns were out for the steak – fabulous. Definitely one to watch. $$ Bagno Food & Wine ul. Bagno 2, www.bagno2.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00. With its huge windows and stark style you can’t help but think Bagno would work best in summer; all it takes is a grey Warsaw day to cloak this place in gloom. Which is a shame,

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as the food (and wine) really work here.

Our steak was nicely done, with a flavorful mushroom sauce and thick baked potatoes on the side. $$ Bio 33 ul. Grzybowska 61, tel. 22 409 9605, www.bio33.pl. A space age looking restaurant in the Platinum Towers complex next to the Hilton. Making use of organic products, the premise is simple: three salads, three soups, three fish dishes, three meat etc. The results are marvelous, but the prices are daft. Zł. 26 for tomato soup!? $$ Bistecca ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www.bistecca.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

A warm and welcoming meat-themed restaurant, featuring one of the largest pieces of steak we’ve ever seen. But if you don’t fancy being chef for the night, stay away from the mixed grill – after a few moments of confusion we realized we were meant to finish the cooking process ourselves; a novel idea, but not what we had in mind when we went out for the evening. $$ Bistro Warszawa (B1) ul. Jezuicka 1, tel. 22 635 3769, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00.

The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini.

The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw crowds from across the city. $$ Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of riverside parkland – perfect for lazy Sundays with family and friends. Freshly re-opened after a winter break, during which time Chef Luc has traveled the Mediterranean sourcing the best ingredients and snooping out new recipes. $$ Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel 523 749 160. Open 12:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-6:00; Sun 14:00-24:00.

With white tiles, an artsy carpentered bar and draftsman desk lamps hanging from the walls, Bufet certainly gets points for design.

The Hungarian fish soup is delicious, while the chocolate soufflé is airy, gooey and all things nice. But choice diminishes quickly – get there early to order the ribs. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www.butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. A year on and this is still the restaurant everyone is talking about.

Having scooped the award for Gazeta Wyborcza’s restaurant of the year, reservations are essential. Served on wooden boards by staff in butcher’s aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach. $$ C.K. Oberża (D4) ul. Chmielna 28, tel. 22 828 4585, www.ckoberza.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. A wood-looking eatery where towering plates of food present considerable challenge to carnivore appetites – come hungry. All the basic culinary needs are covered, while the Cesarska Deska Mięs features practically every animal to ever come out the wrong end of an abattoir. $$

Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373. Open 12:0023:00. Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac luxury department store, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct, five course set lunch menus from zł. 50. Modern designer dining rarely gets better. $$$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Appealing to the serious spender, the US Longhorn (a cool zł. 185) is utterly unforgettable. Try it with orange whiskey sauce. $$$ Etno (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 564 5780,

www.etnoerestauracja.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Looking rather sterile and anonymous, it’s no surprise to find Etno’s scattering of customers consisting of the grey-looking number crunchers from the offices upstairs. While it’s not exactly light on the wallet, the lunch deals make it more than worthwhile – a selected starter and main for 20-something zlots. $$ Flaming & Co. (E6) ul. Chopina 5, tel. 22 628 8140, www.flaming-co.com. Open 7:30-24:00.

A superb eatery seemingly styled by Ralph Lauren. Winning rave reviews across the board, find a strong international offering and even a small playground in the park that it views. $$ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com.

Open 12:00-last guest. Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the

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RESTAURANTS Street Food Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing.

Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Cheng Way (D4) ul. Chmielna 10, tel. 22 899 1626.

Open 11:00-20:00. Imagine a Franco/ Vietnamese translation of Subway and you have Cheng Way. Loaded with generous Asian fillings and sauces, the baguettes here are spot on. $ Okienko ul. Polna 22, tel. 603 771 483.

Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00. Food through a hatch with pride of place going to fantastic Belgian-style fries served with a comprehensive choice of sauces (top marks to the jalapeno). Large portions are zł. 10, and do just the job on post-pub munchies. $ Soul Food Bus Corner of Mazowiecka & Świętokrzyska.

Open Fri & Sat 22:00-4:00. You can’t miss this place: it’s a big red truck/ bus. Their m.o is simple enough.

Eleven types of burgers, and seven quesadillas, served from late until even later. Note they do move around and the open hrs are subject to change – Facebook them for their latest GPS. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, www.chinskapierogarnia.pl. Open 10:00-21:00. Set in a ropey looking pavilion To Tu excels when it comes to dim sum. The kim chi soup is pretty special as well. $ Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134.

Open 11:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-19:00. Authentic German sausages served through a holein-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh bread. The currywurst is fabulous, and there’s also Belgianstyle fries. $

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filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ Groole (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, www. groole.pl. Open 12:00-20:00. You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry. A revelation! $ Kaprys (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2232, www.restauracjakaprys.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Like their service, Kaprys have had a slow start. We had a five minute wait for the menu, in spite of being the only customers.

The design looks formal and unimaginative, and the menu includes a bit of everything – it’s hard to define the cuisine. Our beef carpaccio was tasty, but sea bass – served with head, eyes et al. – was off-putting, and the potato wedges almost certainly from a bag. $$ Kultura (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 22/23, tel. 784 044 051. Open 11:00-23:00.

An initiative from the connecting artsy cinema. Looking slick and polished, creative effect is added by the use of colorful umbrella-style lights, while away from the frontline find the hard work done by the former chef at Dyspensa. And yes, it’s a dream team in the kitchen, with desserts and cakes fixed by those who made Café Misianka the legend it is. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com.

Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. Incorporating ‘French techniques, Polish products and Italian influences,’ chef Pawel Oszczyk has created one of the top dining rooms in Warsaw, a comfortable space that’s both intimate and plush without ever appearing over-indulgent. The the tuna tartar is a magnificent starter, and the venison faultless.

Enhancing the chef’s talents is Andrzej Strzelczyk, one of Poland’s top ranked sommeliers. $$$ Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. Open

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Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This former bath house is adorned by columns and handpainted glazed ceramics. A fine menu of fusion fare with an ‘artsy flair’ is guaranteed, with creative desserts to follow with. Over 300 Italian wine labels (not to mention tipples from Spain, France and Austria), as well a selection of cigars make Concept a number one choice for that all important meal. $$$ Masz Gulasz ul. Piękna 15, tel. 22 370 2550. Open MonSat 11:00-22:00. Magda Gessler continues her campaign to takeover Warsaw with the opening of Masz Gulasz, a warm looking midmarket eatery whose menu comprises chiefly of thick stews and goulash.

Merliniego 5 (E10) Restaurant and Wine Bar, ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. $$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 794 16 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00last guest. Mere steps from Wilanów’s 18th Century church, this former blacksmiths passes muster with excellent steak and a cocktail list invented by Richard Winkler – former mastermind of Paparazzi and Porto Praga. The fish too is fantastic and fresh, meaning even without their clincher – the summer garden – it’s very much a destinaBEST WAWA 2011 “Kid tion to follow. $$ Friendly” Winner Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www.passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. The diverse, international menu has in its number some delicious ribs in BBQ sauce. The interiors are pleasant and non-offensive, though pale in comparison when put head-to-head with the garden; a lush sanctuary, it’s one of the best around. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant,

Frida Restaurant - but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Porto Praga (F1) ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:001:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00.

Bathed in rich, ruby shades and Art Deco swirls, PP looks classy and elegant yet never too formal. Different species of Warsaw life happily co-exist here, enjoying a revamped menu courtesy of chef Marcin Wojtczak.

The cocktails are amazing as well – Bloody Mary is our standard bar-ometer, and here it passes the test with flying colors. $$$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl.

Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$ BEST WAWA 2011 “First Date” Winner

R20 (F5-6) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295. Open 7:3022:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. This top-notch, casually elegant restaurant offers a concise, tantalizing selection of food with signature recipes from the head chef. Strongly recommended is the mouth-watering baked duck with orange and homemade ravioli. $$

The cooling concrete interiors buzz throughout the day, with touches like communal tables well suited to the ascetic style. Owned by the same lot in charge of 6/12, there’s a similar commitment to good, healthy eating employed here. $$

Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www.restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:00-23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The feeding trough of the business class. Back sporting a futuristic look, 99 have been pleasing diners since opening in the 90’s. The good news is they’re better than ever, with a modern international menu that includes one of the finest steaks in town, and the perfect margarita. $$

Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec.waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a Swiss-Polish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $

SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 600 806 084. Bistro, bakery, hangout. However you choose to label SAM, it’s the talk of the town. Noisy Charlotte won all the press last summer, this time round its SAM.

Soul Kitchen ul. Noakowsiego 16, tel. 519 020 888, www. soulkitchen.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The lack of customers suggests Not a Soul Kitchen

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RESTAURANTS would be a better name. Set over two dining rooms the design is elegantly uncluttered: raw brick and vanilla colors. The menu is concise, but failed to impress us last issue – we’ll be back soon to see if they can improve on the ‘magnificent presentation, minimal taste’ that we faced. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. With a location looking at the Chopin Museum you may assume this place is all about boring food at tourist prices. Wrong. Chic and shiny, and with a cool glass frontage, chef Robert – a veteran of the El Bulli kitchen – does the rest with delicate dishes that could pass for art. $$ U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00.

Literally translated as ‘with the cooks’, you find yourself in the thick of the action here, with diners planted in the kitchen area of the former Hotel Europejski. There’s a great atmosphere of orchestrated chaos here, with food served straight from the pots. Some are calling this the best meal in Warsaw, and it’s certainly up there…. even if the cocktails BEST WAWA 2011 “Restaurant aren’t. $$ Design” Winner Ye Goode Foode ul. Zamiany 12, tel. 22 254 4025. Open 11:00-last guest. YGF are back, this time in an off-center location in the middle of the ’burbs.

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Making use of unrefined oils and organic produce these guys take their cooking seriously – even the soups are made from spring water. The menu might not be as extensive as before, but it’s not a bad shout if you’re in the hood. $$

ITALIAN Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 22 635 8377, www.restauracjaarsenal.pl. Open 10:0023:00. It’s been years since we heard great words about Arse, and while the food remains fine there’s a distinct impression that their finest hour has long since passed.

A great play area for kids, it’s still not a bad option if you’re heading from Old Town with accompanying bambinos. $$

seconds to notice that something is very, clearly wrong – the tables are full and the diners having fun. There’s two reasons for that, and they’re called Luca and Lorenzo. Luca is the showman and waiter supreme, while Lorenzo the culinary master behind this much talked-about venue. Fish is their forte, with deliveries from Italy arriving Tuesdays. $$$ Doppio (E4) ul. Gałczyńskiego 3, tel. 22 622 1330. www.doppio-senso.pl. Open Tues-Sun 13:00last guest. Some might call the red and white interiors a little lame – they certainly do little to suggest the greatness in store. While there’s a good scattering of pasta and mains, the real deal is the pizza; top in the town’s pecking order claim their expanding band of fans. $$

Bellini (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. 22 831 0202, www.restauracjabellini.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Queen of cuisine Magda Gessler brings her magic to the realm of Italian cooking with this spacious, enigmatic cellar restaurant just a few doors down from U Fukiera. Brilliant pizzas, especially the signature white pizza, with fresh mozzarella, provolone, rucola, pear slices and pine nuts. $$

Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$

Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www. delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00.

Scene of this Insider’s meal of the year, circa 2010. Unassuming at first sight, it takes

La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. On the right day you’ll find the ex-pat proprietors of Warsaw’s more refined Italian eateries using this for their pizza fix. It

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

might not look like much, but its reputation speaks for itself. $ La Tomatina (D4) ul. Krucza 47. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00. Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from splendid pizzas served in a modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. The spicy tiger prawn spaghetti is also great, even if the presentation looks like a student cooked it. $ Mezzo Italian Steakhouse ul. Sienkiewicza 5 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 756 3343. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00. Tucked at the tip of Konstancin’s park, Mezzo’s wood-burning brick pizza oven constructed in the garden gets all the thumbs up. Also novel to the community is a chance to enjoy top-notch beef – using filet from Poland and T-bones from Irish Hereford cattle, Mezzo’s newly designed kitchen uses a lava grill to ensure excellence each time. $$ Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Design doesn’t figure highly here, instead the onus is on food – the salads are good, but the pizzas even better; maybe even the best in the city. Who says so? Only about a zillion Italians who order from here. $ The Olive (E5)

Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706.

Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, lunch 12:00-16:00; Sat & Sun 7:30-10:30, lunch 12:30-16:30.

Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30. Hot and cold buffet for zł.90. $$$ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00.

The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Pomidoro (Konstancin-Jeziorna) Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 22 702 8777.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. An authentic Italian restaurant located in a renovated paper mill. Chef Ricardo whips up some of the best pizzas, pastas and steaks you’ll find in this city. Try the spaghetti alle vongole or the bistecca alla fiorentina for a real taste of Tuscany. $$ Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, www.puntaprima.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. A formal looking space with wood walls and important chests and cabinets.

Start with a glass of prosecco before being blown over by mains like guinea fowl with truffle puree and caramelized beetroot – even better than it sounds. $$

Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$ Rusticoni Restaurant (C4) Złote Tarasy, tel. 22 222 0550, www.rusticoni. pl. Italian specialities, right in the heart of Warsaw. Choose from a wide variety of pizzas and pastas, as well as an assortment of meat and fish dishes, and a range of desserts, including home-made tiramisu. $ Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 574 4357, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00.

Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side. The M.O is very much the same, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $ VegeMiasto ul. Chmielna 9A, tel . 607 031 114. Open 12:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. A giant red mural flags VegeMiasto, making it impossible to miss. Acting as flypaper for student types, the menu is a vegan, largely gluten-free affair. Even staunch meat eaters should visit

Le Cedre 61

Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Vis a vis Bears Tel 22 670 11 66

Le Cedre 84 NEW

Al. Solidarności 84, Centrum Vis a vis Court Tel 22 618 89 99

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SPONSORED FEATURE

An Audience with the Chef For something special this September, how about a private dinner in the thick of all the action with the Marriott’s star chef.

BY ALEX WEBBER

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WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

O

pened just as the communist system took its last dying breath, the launch of the Warsaw Marriott redefined the local hospitality sector.

In its two decades of operation the Marriott has become firmly established as one of the top hotels in town, scooping a haul of awards for its services to travel. Of course, it’s so much more than just a hotel, and that’s a point emphasized by its hefty choice of restaurants and bars.

The most high profile of these is Parmizzano’s, a venue considered not just one of the top Italian restaurants in Warsaw, but the whole of Poland. Even so, competition for this title is cutthroat, and you need something pretty special to stay ahead of the pack. Well, in the form of ‘The Chef ’s Table’, special is what the Marriott have come up with.

The concept is simple: book in advance and you’ll be treated to a dining experience like no other – dinner with Executive Chef Gavin Baxter. And, if that’s not enough, wait till you find out where it is: his personal domain, the kitchen itself!

Eating amid the clank and clamor of a top kitchen is exciting enough, but when it’s in the company of a star Ozzie chef whose featured on Al Jazeera and TVP1 you just know you’re in for a memorable night.

And so it proved: the starters set the benchmark, with a huge seafood platter dripping with mussels, calamari, scallops and

SPONSORED FEATURE

Opposite: wined and dined backstage in the kitchen; this page, clockwise from top: the painstaking preparation of a seafood platter, Executive Chef Gavin Baxter surveys HQ, pappardelle con carciopfi seconds before being demolished.

CHAT WITH CHEF

prawns. My favorite though, that was the octopus, a maritime victory when paired with remoulade sauce. Even nowadays, quality seafood in Warsaw is a rare, sensual sight – the Marriott, clearly, have got it sussed.

Things improved further with the pappardelle con carciopfi (artichokes, sun-dried tomatoes and chanterelles), a delicious dish that saw table manners go out of the window. Not that anyone seemed to notice; buoyed by ample wine, the atmosphere was lively and festive, with Chef Gavin the target of determined interrogation.

The last time I dined in Parmizzano’s I was treated to the finest lamb I’ve ever had; I’m pleased to announce, their supplier is still on form. The grilled rack of lamb was, without doubt, the star of the show, with the table left fighting toothand-nail over the scraps at the end. Put simply, it was out of this world. But, then and again, so was the whole night, one nicely concluded with a choice of desserts. Would I recommend it? Wholeheartedly. How would I rate it? Somewhere off-the-scale.

Chef’s Table Marriott Hotel (al. Jerozolimskie 65/79), tel. 22 630 5096 Guests can either choose from the Parmizzano’s menu, or work out a custom-made menu in advance.

What do you keep in your fridge?

GB: A variety of fresh vegetables, and a variety of meat marinating - at this time of year there is nothing quite like a BBQ outside. Then there’ll be fresh organic eggs from the market, milk, yoghurts, a selection of cheeses. I’m a fan of cheese fondue so there is always some cheese on standby. I also always have a selection of Polish and Italian cold cuts, olives, sun-dried tomatoes, a nice bottle of champagne and white wine.

At this moment, what are your favorite local ingredients?

Fresh chanterelle and porcini mushrooms – they’re so accessible here in Poland, and of course berries and honey.

What’s the most exotic food you’ve eaten?

Kudu and impala from South Africa and much, much more. The one thing which sticks in my mind is grilled grasshoppers – they were definitely a one off.

Restaurants in Poland - where are they right now?

The top end restaurants are still in transition, but standards are increasing. The improvement in quality in the last two years has been impressive and it’s great to see the bar being raised.

What’s your biggest kitchen disaster?

When I was working the cruise ships we ran out of roast potatoes on Christmas Day for some of the passengers. Why? Because, shall we say, a large number of portions went to the crew and officers on the ship and had already been consumed.

Your last meal – what is it?

A mixed fresh seafood plate for starters, fresh crab bisque, wild berry sorbet with a dash of cassis liquor, Osso bucco with gremolata and yes, a very English ‘trifle’ (with a splash of sherry and brandy) with quality vanilla bean ice cream.

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RESTAURANTS for the smoothies and shakes. $ Venezia (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 622 1537, www.venezia.com.pl. Open noon-23:00.

What happens when a restaurant hits the skids? They call Magda Gessler, or more specifically her Polski version of Kitchen Nightmares. Reinvented under her guiding hand, Venezia are back with an exciting menu and an informal design that includes Venetian murals and a stone lion. Can Venezia reclaim their reputation? The grilled sirloin with chili says yes. $$ Vera Italia (Ochota) ul. Sąchocka 5, tel. 22 823 8380, www.veraitalia.pl. Open 11:30-23:00.

Where Warsaw’s Italian and other expats craving the real thing gather for Italian food.

Note that its popularity makes booking ahead a must. $$

JAPANESE & SUSHI Akashia (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767; Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0333, www.akashia.pl. The glory years are over, especially if a visit to the Złote Tarasy outpost is anything to go by. We like our duck to be crispy, but this could have been blowtorched – we didn’t need chopsticks, we needed a chisel. The W.C could benefit from a lick of paint and all. $$ Besuto (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 828 0020, www.besuto.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. After years trading in one of the grubby pavilions behind Nowy Świat, Besuto have upped chopsticks and moved onto Nowy Świat itself. The sushi is as good as ever, only now so are the views. You’d have expected the prices to climb north to reflect the change in address: they haven’t. $$ Hana Sushi (A1) al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), www.hanasushi. pl. Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955.

Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00).

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Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. $$$ Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu.

Open 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$ Kaizen ul. Świetlicowa 7/9 (Konstancin), tel. 607 128 840. Open 12:00-22:00. Dark woods and orchids warm the characteristically minimal Japanese design. The traditional sushi is delicious; however they also step in uncommon directions as they cater to Western tastes, with additional sauces, innovative inclusions and elegant plate ensembles. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. If there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, it was Sakana. Many claim it’s the best in the city, a stand that’s hard to dispute. Practice nimble chopstick moves among other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ Sushi 77 (B4) ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 22 890 1811, Al. KEN 49, ul. Polna 48, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, C.H. Skorosze, ul. Gen. F. Sławoja-Składkowskiego 4, www.sushi77.com. Open 12:00-23:00. Not the best in town, but definitely the best deal in town. Prices have been slashed 40%, meaning you’ll get a highly acceptable sushi fix for an economy class bill. $ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00.

The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle.

Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ Tomo (D5)

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$

JEWISH Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00.

Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them frequently at war with the people they serve. $ Rambam ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 243 2693, www.rambamrestaurant.pl. Open Sun-Fri 11:30-23:00. Kosher-certified, though by no means the exclusive domain of the Israeli coachloads who tour the district. A chic look with Middle Eastern accents is paired off with exotic dishes that include a lamb burger with red onion chutney and mint sauce. $$

LATIN Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

A lasting legend and something of a favorite for after-work informal drinks, though recent reconnaissance has revealed plenty of deficiencies – our burrito was tiny, and not so much over-cooked as blowtorched: if it’d been human, you’d have needed dental records to identify it. Service can be calamitous, making the 10% added to the bill the subject of hot debate. $$ El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 2340. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is consistently inconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$

El Toro Steakhouse ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, www.eltororestaurant.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Decked with stone cladding, wooden supports and a mural of a Mexican desert scene, El Toro is a valuable discovery for meat loves out there.

There’s seven steaks to saw through, and they reach a hefty zł. 157 for the Porterhouse. A whole lot cheaper are the delicious Louisiana Hot Wings, though for fans of the Mex part of Tex-Mex the authenticity is open to discussion. $$ Frida Nowy Świat (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. 691 343 434. Open SunThur 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-02:00. They’ve sussed the design and the location, but the food is more Pol-Mex than Tex-Mex. Bland flavors and tame salsas don’t encourage return visits. $$ Ole Tapas ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, www.ole-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t

let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for.

Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$ Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, www.portucale.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ Sol y Sambra ul. Grzybowska 2, tel. 22 404 7011. Open 12:00-laste guest. The third tapas bar to try its luck at this very address – what’s that about?

Winning blanket approval across the board, Sol y Sambra will be hoping for better fortune than previous tenants. The food is fresh, simple and unfailingly successful. $$ Taqueria Mexicana (D4) ul. Zgoda 5, tel. 22 556 4720/22, www.taqueriamexicana.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-

22:00. This little slice of Mexico serves great fajitas and even better Caesar Salad. Stick with the guacamole. $$ The Mexican (E4) ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 22 826 9021, www.mexican.pl. Open Sun-Thur 11:0024:00; Fri and Sat 11:00-01:00. Style-wise this place is fab, complete with an adobe courtyard and Corona chandeliers. But the authenticity crashes into calamity with the food, which frequently appears as a mysterious gloop served with mashed cabbage.

The locals love it. $$

POLISH Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

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RESTAURANTS Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E5)

Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.kprb.pl/amber. Open for lunch MonFri 12:00-15:00, dinner Mon-Fri 18:00-22:00, Sat 19:00-22:30. The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, www.aterlieramaro.pl. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30. Nigel Slater recently called Atelier, “the most extraordinary meal of the trip,” and The Guardian’s gastro guru has hit the nail on the head. Find a menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques (e.g. blasts of nitrogen), with each course interspersed with occasionally bizarre molecular interludes – you bet we didn’t expect to be served a fizzy aloe leaf. This is Poland’s finest restaurant, and a real contender for the nation’s first Michelin star.

Bookings essential. $$$ Belvedere Restaurant (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold BEST WAWA and black interiors. $$$ 2011 “Business Venue” Winner Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www.bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese. And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 460 for four). As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re

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after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics. $ Cuda Wianki ul. Przekorna 15 (Powsin), tel. 22 498 1508. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. Standing at the foot of Kabaty Forest, the interiors here are simply adorable, and heavily influenced by folk art. Co-owned by a tennis pro and his parents, this family have sought to develop their own menu, based on standard Polish fare, but with twists and turns they have gathered through prior experience. The results are excellent. $ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Dyspensa (E5-6) ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 22 629 9989, www.dyspensa.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Back after a refit, Dyspensa now looks altogether sharper, cosmopolitan even.

There’s great people watching to be had from the raised window seating, and a menu of fine Polish fare with international accents. $$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight.

If it’s the all-singing, all-dancing village experience you’re after then consider this place. Clad in wood and rural debris the food is what you expect: bulky portions of farmyard kill. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest.

Delicious traditional Polish dishes such as golonka, żurek, karkówka and kaszanka, served in hearty portions in very eclectic interiors. $$

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

Honoratka (C2) ul. Miodowa 14, tel. 22 635 0397, www.honoratka.com.pl. Open daily 12:00last guest. This place has been around since 1826 and has played host to many famous guests, including Chopin. Honoratka serves delicious traditional Polish dishes and international courses. Live music every day from 18:00. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00. Bathed in red banners and propaganda paintings the Red Hog is your one stop shop for some socialist socializing. The menu is comically split between dishes for the proletariat and those for the dignitaries: the final result though is middle-of-the-road stodge. People – us included – return for the atmosphere rather than the food. $$ Lokal Bistro ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64. Open 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-1:00. Dentist colors and voluminous ceilings lend an austere but pleasant look to this Polish-style burger bar.

Sit outside at the woodchip tables (oww! watch for splinters…) to enjoy burgers that incorporate Polish Red Angus, Baltic cod and mountain cheese. Our tip: order a towering double burger with red onion marmalade and homemade ketchup. Delivered on a thick wooden board it’s completely delightful – if not a little messy. By the end of the meal the table will look like you’ve just given birth. $ MG Eat Gessler (D4) ul. Chmielna 32. Open 10:00-23:00.

Now MG is not your signature Gessler venture; lacking the OTT interiors and flamboyant prices this is a clear departure from what we’re used to. In fact, you couldn’t even call it a restaurant, more a bio café/deli. The ciabbattas are great, and the FroYo outstanding. $ Na Zielnej (C4) ul. Zielna 37, tel. 22 338 6333, www.nazielnej.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; 12:00-22:00. Earning plaudits from all corners of the press is Na Zielnej, a dining diva which sources only the finest Polish produce.

Split into a restaurant and (marginally cheaper) bistro, the menu has had foodies raving, and includes divine dishes such as pheasant’s breast. And the interiors hit the mark as well – making use of the space vacated by KOM, Na Zielnej touts an edgy, engaging design of bare bricks and violet BEST WAWA 2011 flourishes. $$$

“Address to Impress” Winner Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Polka ( D2) ul. Świętojańska 2, www.restauracjapolka.pl, tel. 22 635 3535. Open 12:00-23:00. Colorful pastel interiors inspired by Polish folk art set the tone for this place. The servings are small, but the food is top notch. $$ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Despite being judged worthy of a

recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00last guest. It isn’t just the impressionable tourists and new-in-town expense account communities that are swept away by Różana’s charms. It features starchy white table linen, floral pieces, flickering candles and live piano solos to a posse of attentive waiters. The prices are fair and the menu is a thoughtful selection of dishes from “Old Poland.” $$ Rialto’s Restaurant (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto Boutique Hotel), tel. 22 584 8771. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-22:30; Sat-Sun 7:00-22:30. Bathed in toffee and vanilla hues, the restaurant in this Art Deco hotel has a solid claim as one of the top

meals around. The pan-seared duck breast with honey pumpkin and figs is every bit as inspired as it sounds. $$$ Słony (D5) ul. Piękna 11, tel. 22 629 0364. Open Mon-Wed 8:00-23:00; Thu-Fri 8:00-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-23:00. The design is kitsch but classy, with mirrored touches and striped wallpaper set against upside down lamps and nudes of Josephine Baker. Polish canapés costing zł. 8 are stored behind glass counters here, and make for great bargain snacking – the eggplant is delicious. And yes, it’s got Magda Gessler’s name stamped on it. $ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians.

Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$

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RESTAURANTS U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www. uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. The place is named after a tubby fictional Czech soldier, but the grub is hearty Polish, XXXL portions at bargain prices. At zł. 15 per litre of beer, the mugs are constantly refilled to wash down the feast of sausages, ribs and pork knuckles. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Wańkowicza 1, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, ul.

Podwale 1, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, www.zapiecek.eu. Open 11:00-22:00. Six Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

SEAFOOD Osteria (D5) ul. Koszykowa 54 (at ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 1646, www.osteria.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. An intimate restaurant with marine-inspired décor and the best seafood in Warsaw, t’s ideal for an energetic business lunch or romantic late-night supper. You can also pick up your seafood to go from their neighboring shop. $$

SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www.biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00.

Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. Cash only, with a second branch in Wilanów (Konstancin, Old Paper Mill, ul.

Wojska Polskiego 3, open Sat 10:00-15:00).

British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804.

British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items inc. Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc.

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www.lafromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Thur 9:0020:00; Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun

11:30-16:00. Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, grourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl. Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready BEST meals, confectionary and preserves.

WAWA 2011 “Gourmet Grocery” Winner

Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, coffee from Florence and Olives from Puglia. And not just Italian: find a range of foods from both Spain and France.

Polna Market ul. Polna 13, Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West. And it’s still known as something of a shoppers paradise, with a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butchers, and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables.

THE VERY BEST

of ITALY! ITALIAN RESTAURANT

FROM 1 1 .00 AM to 1 1 .00 PM ZŁOTE TARASY, PIAZZA, LEVEL - 1 , ENTRY FROM Emilii Plater STREET tel.: 22 222 05 50 email: restauracja@rossopomodoro.com.pl

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WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

Reviews: Moments 51 / Plus:

* 1 update

CAFÉS & WINE BARS CAFES 51 / WINE BARS 54

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Insider’s Pick

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CAFÉS 5.29 (D4) ul. Krucza 51 (corner of Widok). Open Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Stuffed in an area of 5.29 sq/m, here’s a candidate for Poland’s smallest café. Maybe the world’s. But there’s not just great espresso to knock back while standing, but a great oven knocking out foccacias, bagels and fresh French pastries.

Moments ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, www.tastylife.pl. Open Mon-Thur 7:30-22:00; Fri 7:30-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KAROLINA KALINOWSKA

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eja vu? Quite possibly. Moments, opened just moments ago on the busy crossroads of Nowy Świat and Jerozolimskie, seems to have borrowed all the best bits of all the best places in Warsaw: the bread and jam basket (and wine) of Charlotte, the modernity of Moderna, the cosy second floor of my’o’my, the secluded basement and retro neon of Towarzyska, and of course all the staple extras: coffees, Ciechan’s and tasty tartes. Yet the student has now become the master. It occupies a prime location in the ingenious construction of a two-storey glass prism under the Financial Center’s arcades.

So forget the gloomy, dusty corners of Warsaw’s cafes and immerse yourself inside a sleek space bathed in light that comes streaming through all four walls. Moments knows many incarnations and slides with ease between cosmopolitan cafe, modern eatery and communal wine bar.

Those following this column know that I never fail to order a latte. This time: iced (holding on to the last bits of summer). Yet, to my surprise, this wasn’t your typical iced latte with ice cubes bobbing about and watering down the coffee. Success lies in the details and nothing, I repeat, nothing in Moments is overlooked. What arrived was a delightfully frothy, milky and cold concoction but sans the offending ice! Best I’ve ever had. How do they do it? One can only guess. It’s a miracle definitely worth stopping in for. And that’s just the beginning. The orange creme meringue torte (the name itself tells you you’re in for a lavish treat) is to die for - it’s so decadent. And you might need another mouth to help you out as the portions certainly put other places to shame.

Life has sure been breathed into this part of Centrum, beginning with the muchneeded rejuvenation of Moment’s next-door-neighbor: the National Museum. So why not reserve an afternoon and treat yourself to both. (KK)

Antrakt (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 827 6411.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. Intellectuals and playwrights gather in Antrakt, a quirky cafe that groans with antiques and artwork.

The presence of the theater next door keeps the IQ level high.

Aroma ul. Krucza 6, tel. 22 376 5475, www.aromaespressobar.pl. Open 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-20:00. An attractive Israeli owned spot with white painted walls and a busy café atmosphere – hissing coffee contraptions and lively sounds. The sandwiches are nice enough, but we like this place for their other offerings: cinnamon twisters, Belgian waffles and chocolate croissants.

Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest. There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100 year history. Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who had a fondness for their donuts.

Bubbleology ul. Chmielna 26, www.bubbleology.pl.

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS Open 11:00-23:00. Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café.

But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. ‘Bubble Tea’ is the beverage here, with an arsenal of fruit flavors made by zany lab coated staff.

Café 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333,

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www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00.

Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better.

Or looked better for that matter; still very much the choice haunt for the in-team.

BEST WAWA 2011 “Cafe Culture” Winner Café Galeria Sztuki (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 13, tel. 22 619 8109, www. caffee.stanowski.pl. Open 9:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. Located in a restored tenement, Sztuki is defined by raw brick, whitewashed walls and antique furniture… with price tags attached. Yes, if you like the chair you’re sitting on, feel free to buy it. The summery iced lattes are divine.

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Słony Magda Gessler invites you for the best breakfast in Warsaw in the morning and for snacks served with wine and ‘shots’ of lager in the evening and night.

We recommend:

• “Sznytki” - small canapès with spreads (also available for takeaway and catering) • The best white sausage in Warsaw • Herring served in different styles • Viennese specialties: leberkäse, debreciner and Frankfurter sausages • Breakfast sets and breakfast à la carte.

On the weekends served till 4 p.m.

• Wide selection of gluten-free dishes Słony, 11 Piękna St. (crossroads of Piękna St. and Krucza St.) Tel. 22 629 0364; 506 052 093 www.slony.pl; slony@slony.pl

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Café Lorentz Al. Jerozolimskie 3. Open Mon 10:00-20:00; Tue-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Set at the front of the National Museum this place has a nice indoor area with high ceilings and minimalist decorations and a green outdoor area populated by wickers chairs and hammocks. As is the rage in Warsaw, the menu is light, natural and healthy.

Café Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 22 620 3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:0023:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00. Ignoring the fact that most of this street looks ready to fall down, the artsy-looking Próżna comes with a chic, ice white look, and a stack of hard-back tomes to compliment the homemade desserts. Even better at night, when soaked in the glow of dozens of candles.

Café Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115.

Open daily 6:30-24:00. A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from almond croissants to delicate brioches.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 10:00-last guest. Once known for its battered look and antiestablishment attitude, C25 has undergone gentrification. It all began with losing their alcohol license. Now, all the dreadlocks, piercings and second hand furniture are a

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

distant memory, replaced instead by a middle class crowd and a cleaned up look. On this occasion, change has not been for the better.

Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, www.coffeekarma.eu. Open Mon-Fri 7:3022:00; Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00.

Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. But to see Coffee Karma at her best, wait for the spring terrace.

Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Dobra 31, tel. 22 826 3294, www.czulybarbarzynca.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. A very charming bookstore and café in one.

Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 22 881 8677. Open Mon-Sun 12:0021:00. Dziurka serves an ambiguous role as a bar, restaurant and cafe. Curious doors sit embedded on the wall, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside.

Flowers, plant pots and violet splashes give it a cheerful spin, while the Italian inspired menu isn’t short on creative flair.

Haagen Dazs (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 826 3052. Open 10:00-20:00. While Starbucks have struggled to replicate their Western form, Haagen Dazs haven’t. The mango sorbet is out of this world, albeit served inside generic, showroom interiors.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822, www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses.

Kawiarnia Ogrody (D2) ul. Mariensztat 21A, tel. 22 826 2898, www.kawiarniaogrody.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-20:00.

The black and white decor manages to strike a perfect balance between grungy and chic. Kawiarnia Ogrody is located on the beautiful, old-timey Mariensztat, and serves a selection of coffee drinks, shakes, snacks and pastries. Watch out, the ‘large’ coffee is

actually huge!

Klubo Kawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, www.klubokawiarnia.net.

Open 9:00-last guest. Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors.

Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, screenings and art happenings have launched it into local conscience.

La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, www.lavanille.pl. Open 8:00-20:00. In much the same way Charlotte is so much more than a bakery, La Vanille is definitely more than your standard confectioners. Thick with the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that acts as a magnetic force, and it’s here you’ll find fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in precise military formation. The coffee is pretty good and all.

Limoni Canteri 1952 (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 52. Open 8:00-22:00. What appears as a run-of-the-mill high street cafe is anything but. The ice cream here is sensational, with unconventional flavors that deviate from the norm – really, have you ever ordered a cone of tomato and beer flavored ice cream? Italian run, it’s a must in the summer.

Lody na Patyku (E3)

ul. Lipowa 7A. Open 10:00-23:00. One of our favorite openings of the summer; selling ice lollies of every shape, size, flavor and color, this unexpected project is an initiative of the guys who run Warszawa Powiśle and Syreni Śpiew. Looking clinical and white, it’s a star of the summer.

Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders.

Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired influenced by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for estoreric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com, tel. 22 828 5417. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. One of Warsaw’s enduring legends, and as popular at night as it is during the day; media types love it, and you’ll find them pecking on quesadilla type snacks inside a hip, white interior.

Ministerstwo Kawy ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 512 091 840, www.ministerstwokawy.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Were it not for the fact MK opened after voting had closed, you’d have bet your bottom zlot this would have romped home with our ‘best café’ award.

Decorated sparingly with white wall tiles and wooden floors, this newbie numbers some ace fruit drinks amongst its greater glories. Find a painfully vogue crowd comparing boutique buys over gourmet coffee.

MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 2 629 0815, www.mito.art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; 9:00-23:00. Café, gallery, bookstore. Sure, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by modern art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel.

Petit Appetit (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, www.petitappetit.pl. Open 6:30-23:30. Cartoon murals, brickwork and that must for the season – a communal table – all contribute to marking Petit Appetit as something of a winner. Their real success though is as a bakery: loaves, baguettes, pastries are produced to expert standard.

Piaskownica (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A. Open 9:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest. During daylight it’s a coffee bar; come nightfall beer becomes the choice of the people. Popular with college kids, find announcements like ‘Tofu Attack’ chalked on the blackboards.

Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30.

An attractive Saska café decked with pale white colors, and steel lights overhead.

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS Service can be frustrating, and some call the food overpriced, factors which are offset by a high street location: perfect for a spot of people watching.

Przystanek MDM ul. Waryńskiego 9/1, tel. 509 031 062. Open 7:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00. A retro themed café with its feet firmly planted in the 50s – check out the gaudy PRL armchairs and the giant black and white of pl. Konstytucji.

The range of unfiltered local beers makes it that bit more than just a café.

Saint Honore (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 20/22, tel.

508 143 987, ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers), www.saint-honore.pl.Open 8:0021:00. Accept no imitation, here’s the best bakery around. And aside from fresh baguette sandwiches, find authentically French cakes, croissants and pastries. Śniadaniownia ul. Dąbrowskiego 38, tel. 507 513 502. Open 8:00-15:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-17:00. A bright looking breakfast bar with pale woods and pot plants to offset any early morning trauma.

The day’s breakfast sets are scrawled up on a blackboard, and usually involve a number of healthy living options to kicks start the day.

Socjal (E4) ul. Foksal 18, tel. 601 318 966. Open 9:00-4:00.

Looking raw, industrial and refreshingly ascetic, the principal feature of Socjal is the long communal table – who you end up talking to is down to the dice. There’s few better places to order the Prosecco and act oh so continental.

Sto900 (E3) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 787 696 241. Open 9:0022:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. A fabulous café/restaurant with a spontaneous design that jumbles bricks and wood with mismatched furniture. From the outside, this place looks like the entrance to a squat, so be surprised to learn it’s not just the atmosphere that’s ace. The menu changes daily, but usually involves commendable burgers (with a daring but successful addition of beetroot) alongside more unexpected dishes: e.g. eko-falafel.

Tel Aviv (D5) ul. Poznańska 11, tel. 22 621 1128, www.tel-aviv.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:30-22:00; Fri 8:30-midnight; Sat 10:00-midnight; Sun 10:00-22:00. One high-profile Jewish

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visitor described the food as ‘vile’. So maybe leave the humus to others, enjoy instead a cool, indigo-colored, pop-art style space with Israeli music and hard-to-find beers.

WINE BARS Charlotte (D6) pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open MonFri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:0022:00. Further proof of Zbawiciela’s rising star is Charlotte, a trendy boulangerie/wine bar. With seating spilling out underneath the colonnades outside, this was easily the hit of the summer. Pandering to the hipsters and trendies, you’d expect this sort of place BEST WAWA 2011 in Hoxton, London.

“Newcomer & People Watching” Winner Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-midnight; Sun 14:0022:00. Located just outside the Old Town, this minimalist wine bar is a great place for a date.

Wines from top European wine makers are impressive and the prices are very decent.

Esencja Smaku (D9) ul. Odolańska 10, tel. 22 845 0944, www.esencjasmaku.pl. A small bistro characterized by a casual décor and a laidback atmosphere. Includes a seasonal menu of light dishes.

Joseph’s Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, www.josephwinebar.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This newlyopened restaurant, bar and wine shop features great atmosphere and amiable staff. Don’t come here for a quick dinner. Instead, come here to drink the wine and savor the rich and inventive meals. Service is slow, but rightly so, leaving guests with just enough time to regain their appetite for seconds. Being firmly tucked away from the center in a renovated factory allows you to easily whittle away the hours.

Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine bar on ul. Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, café-style chic. The locale offers

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

daily specials that feature two four-course menus. The shops’ wines are sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

The summer courtyard garden is a particular standout feature.

Les Secrets de Vin ul. Wałęcznych 68, tel. 780 578 571, www.secretsduvin.pl. Open Sun, Tues-Thurs 11:00-20:30; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00. A small enterprise run by a pair of wine lovers – one of them, a certified graduate from l’Universite du Vin. The menu comprises of tapas snacks, and they also run wine tasting classes and Mediterranean language courses.

Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Some call it the best wine bar in Warsaw, others the best in Poland.

Either way, this place hits the right notes with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu, old and new world wines and a chic warehouse design filled to bursting with crates and boxes.

Vinoteka 13 + Wine Bar (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7407, www.vinoteka13.pl.

Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This premium wine shop and bar is tucked away in the beautiful Likus Concept Store. It sports a wide selection of fine wines from Italy, France, Austria and Spain, along with some stronger spirits and Cuban cigars at a varied price range. Also serves a tasting menu of cheeses and deli meats.

WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 8, tel. 22 646 8742, www.winkolekcja.pl. Open 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. You can’t pick your neighbors...

In WinKolekcja’s case, that means a kebab shop opposite and a bottle bank with a constant stream of street bums. But in spite of the curious location, this new wine bar/ store looks set to thrive; the wine choice is comprehensive, and the food excellent. The design has the routine look of a club class lounge area; even so, it’s a timely addition to an area not rich in options.

Reviews: Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra/Bazar 55 Plus:

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NIGHTLIFE BARS & PUBS 55 / CLUBS 58 / GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS 60

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BOW 2011 Winner.............

Food Served....................

Free wifi..............................

Live Music..........................

Map location pg. 78 ...... (A1) Romantic..........................

BARS & PUBS BarKa (D1) ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 31/33.

Like Plac Zabaw, this place is a summer offshoot of Plan B. The difference is, it’s a boat! Deckchairs and canvas canopies are the order of the day on this barge, with regular live music drawing crowds from over the city.

Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra ul. Jagiellońska 22, tel. 501 048 471, www.po2stronielustra.com. Open 12:00 to last guest.

Bazar ul. Okrzei 22, tel. 508 321 264. Open 10:00 to last guest.

W

hen the original Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra closed its doors it felt like the heart had been ripped from Praga. Dark and dusty, it was the seminal local experience, with its appeal baiting characters that ranged from ‘they’ll be famous soon’ DJs to oldies wearing flat caps. That they had six fridges stuffed with rare European beers only magnified the charm. Now, they’ve returned, only this time to pastures new on Jagiellońska. Accessed down a stairwell lined with bottle tops and coasters, the new look PDSL is everything the previous wasn’t: hygienic, sanitized and, completely devoid of the unpredictable energy of Version 1.0. Yes, the fridge(s) still contain a devastating choice of lager, but you get the impression they’ve failed in their mission. As a sequel, it just doesn’t click at all.

That’s why I wasn’t sticking around. Instead, I found myself drawn to a place across the road: Bazar. Bazar is pseudo-industrial with features that include asphalt colors and pipes insulated with shiny, shimmery material. And, just to emphasize their urban credentials, there’s scores of wine bottles lining the wall.

Not that people visit for the wine: this place takes inspiration not from Warsaw’s Praga, but the real Praga – that little Czech place 600 clicks south. That’s evidenced not just by the street signs on the walls, but the brews on tap: Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen. The Czech accent is lent added weight by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Center: ‘disco’ nights, film screenings and booze promotions. It’s during events such as this that the party spills downstairs, into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints.

Of course, there are modifications I’d welcome: I’d like to see more of everything – more cocktails, more food, and more to the point, more beer. Compared to the seventy odd stocked by Czeska Baszta, the offer here is scant. But unlike Czeska Baszta, you won’t leave smelling like inside of The Marlboro Man’s pants (really, you may as well set your clothes on fire after exiting the Baszta). All in all, a welcome – nay, celebrated – variation to Warsaw’s right bank. (AW)

Bar Tektura (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 22 702 9647.

Open 12:00-last guest. Here’s a hyper cool haunt with a look anchored by brick and cardboard as the main decorative element (check the ornamental bison’s head), with additional touches including taps for coat hangers and Banksy-style wall art. And creativity is encouraged among the regulars – find pencils and papers on each table.

The ‘Polski tapas’ are great, yet not nearly as good as the Estonian cider.

Bastylia (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 825 0157. Open 8:00-23:00. Before Zbawiciela became The Center of the World, Bastylia was an unassuming pancake shop with a militant lesbian following. Smelling money it’s done a 180 turn and been reinvented as a champagne bar with whitewashed brickwork and mandarin sofas. For all the effort it just doesn’t feel right – and the staff get plenty of big red crosses.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest.

One of the hits of 2012, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary film posters and some token pics of military hardware (pointing at Tel Aviv Cafe across the road). Androgynous staff deal out Lithuanian beer and Lebanese starters from behind a sandbag bar in this standout café-bar.

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NIGHTLIFE Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia). Open 11:00last guest. It’s been five years since Bierhalle tapped their first beer, and in those five years they’ve nailed the market. Fantastic Pils served in a boozy, Bavarian atmopshere, and a decent menu to iron out any hunger issues.

Browar de Brasil (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 76/80, tel. 534 600 990, www.browardebrasil.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Four house lagers served by sexy soccerettes dressed in tight Brazil tops. Featuring blood rose colors and deep, dark woods (a glass floor, even!), the interiors combine

well with the copper brewing vats. The food though is amateurish, and at times inedible.

The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub. pl. How fickle this city can be. Two months ago we were proclaiming the launch of the Bulldog as one of Warsaw’s finest moments – then, inexplicably, the ownership got shot of the manager who’d made it the success that it was. Cue outrageous service, an ex-pat boycott, and a future that looks grim.

Browarmia (C3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An industrial looking microbrewery filled with mysterious pipes, valves and gauges. The summer terrace is great, making it one of the best places around for a brew with a view.

Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 523 749 160. Open 12:00-5:00 With its harsh lights, white tiles and collapsible tables this could pass for a school canteen – at least it would if the customers weren’t too cool for school. There’s serious posing going on in between drinks, and you’re clearly a no-mark if you weren’t at the launch. Still in their infancy, prepare for teething problems: e.g., running out of lager.

Café Colombia (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, www. colombiabar.pl. Open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Vast windows, vibrant colors and wide open spaces make it the polar opposite of the covert cocktail dens we usually like.

But my God, the drinks here are special. The Chili Manhattan Dream is outstanding, and the Espressotini to die for – and after ordering eight we nearly did. Also on the roster, a range of impressive international beers.

Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754.

Open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest.

Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good.

Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river.

Cud nad Wisłą (E2) ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie, tel. 533 649 561, www.cudnadwisla.pl. Open 10:00-last guest.

What summer drinking should be about. Deck-

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chairs and cushions abound in this riverside spot, and it excels at night when twinkly lights reflect off the inky black waters. The live music does its bit to ensure it’s never a quiet night.

Czeska Baszta Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego. Open TuesThurs, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00.

Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary. Bathed in a yellowish glow, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk! There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

Czysta Ojczysta (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-4:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00.

Here’s a turn up for the books: a Praga bar that doesn’t look infected. Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo.

Dorum Art (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, tel. 601 220 895, www. dorumart.pl. Open 10:00-last guest. Entered through a clunky set of metal doors, this space is everything you expect (iron posts, rough plaster, raw concrete) as well as a lot that you don’t. Fulfilling a joint function as an art space, interiors glitter and glow with the illuminated stained glass pieces of Katarzyna Czajka – horses heads, an elephant and a throne. It’s like waking up in a David Lynch film.

Flaming & Co. Champagne Bar (E6) ul. Mokotowska 43. Open 12:00-23:00.

Checkered floor tiles, pristine whites and classic pictures of the rich and famous announce Flaming. The guys look like Bond villains and the gals just like Bond girls, but don’t think it’s a closed shop. With glasses of Moet starting below zł. 50 it’s accessible to all.

But forget the champagne, it’s their cocktails we love. Order oysters and let the night take its course.

Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 502 070 916, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. Open MonThur 18:00-1:00, Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00.Even in an area known for its dive scene Hydrozagadka stands apart as something a little different.

Competition is cutthroat in Praga, but even so this place wins the gong for most dismal interior – congrats. Looking like it’ll fall apart at any given signal, The H earns plaudits for weekends that whizz past in a blur of hedonism. immy Bradley’s (C4) Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 654 6656, www.jimmybradleys.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. Ex-pat Warsaw hit meltdown earlier this year when it was announced that landlord Kevin Bradley had left the pub bearing his name. Along with the new man come plenty of promises for more music, more TVs and a more family friendly atmosphere. We don’t care if they let serial killers in, as long they keep serving Poland’s best Guinness.

Karmnik (D1) ul. Piwna 41, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00-last guest. Complimented by soft, lazy grooves, conversation comes fuelled by a fridge filled to bursting with diverse labels from Łomża and Gniewosz. Rounding out the art-mosphere, find a tubby looking dog nosing happily under tables. Decorated with birdhouses and wobbly plastic seats, it’s further proof that Praga cool has penterated mainland Warsaw.

Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Dwarfish in size, Kwadrat offers a magnificent selection of quirky beers from the lesser known breweries of backwater Poland. Arty in spirit, but never pretentious, it’s the neighborhood bar you wished you lived next to.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640.

Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background.

Lolek (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), tel.

22 825 6202, www.lolekpub.pl. Open daily 11:00-03:00. A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a park-centered location.

Strangers squish together on shaky benches

while sausages grill over an open fire, inside this classic rough-and-ready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged.

Lorelei (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 605 066 775. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-01:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-05:00. A brill place with black and white interiors touched up with cool lighting and walls layered with comic strip pics. The real plus are the people, an approachable bunch always happy to practice their English.

Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. Open 17:00-last guest.

Lots of middle aged hipsters wearing Teletubby t-shirts here, but they’re easy to ignore after beer No. 5. Touting sixty regional beers, the design doesn’t evolve beyond jam jars for lights and a blackboard for prices – it doesn’t need anything else to work; similar to a backstreet New York dive, it’s got an effortless cool and a permanent buzz.

Meta na Mazowieckiej (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 16/22. Open 11:00-6:00.

Filled with Breznev-era leftovers the latest venue from the Meta brand is a larger version of the Foksal original. Posters and vinyl (even a motorbike) from the PRL years decorate the walls, with the bulk of the action taking place in the smoking room in the back.

Molly Malone’s (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 41, tel. 693 333 954, www.mollymalone.pl.

Open 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00. You’re not going to miss it: standing on street level, an elderly gent in top hat and tails waves customers in. Resist. Set over two floors, ground level features a narrow wood carved bar, while upstairs find music paraphernalia, benches and, in our case, a band called Gangbang rehearsing for later. Forget the name, it’s a Polish pub for local students.

Na Lato ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 692 280 094. The former HQ of the SLD political party now finds itself utilized as a bar. Their success though is largely due to the shaded park outside. Filled out with deckchairs, it’s come to resemble a giant, beery picnic.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze

of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps.

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl.

Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00. An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a well-to-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open 9:00-last guest.

Engage in suicidal cocktail consumption alongside high rollers and genetic miracles.

Slick and smooth, Poland’s original cocktail chain continues to set the bar high with formidable cocktails (Pimm’s included!) and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16. Open 9:00-last guest.

Decorated in voluptuous Bordeaux colors, the design involves mismatching seats and tiled lampshades, and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives, musicians and other fringe dwellers. A big friendly dog loafing around and improvised music nights round out this Insider legend. And when they say they’re open to last guest, they really do mean it.

Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A. Open 11:00-last guest.

Featuring gun-metal grey colors and cool catwalk sounds, this courtyard bar shares space with a design store of the same name: the kind which sells animal print deckchairs and lamps made from Jesus statues. The cocktails are fixed using mad scientist, molecular techniques and include the excellent vodka foam Dr. Collins Killer.

Pijalnia (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19A, tel. 796 110 000. Open 24hrs. For a contrived look at what drinking was like in Warsaw, circa 1980, a trip to Pijalnia is a must. Bow tied staff serve vodka shots and pickles from behind a tiled bar, to a crowd that gets younger as the day grows older. In design terms it’s the polar opposite of Sense next door, but claims a similar crowd as the night hits fever pitch. In quieter times, checks the newspapered walls to read up on commie sports reports.

Plac Zabaw ul. Myśliwiecka 9 (Park Agrykola). Open 12:00-

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NIGHTLIFE 4:00. Owned by the same dudes behind Plan B, the name translates as ‘Playground’. With a low-key, open air set-up in the wooded bit under Trasa Łazienkowska, from an aesthetic point there’s little to write home about. Even so, with summer in song you’ll find it rocking into the wee, early hours.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Plan B is a byword for everything that’s hip and happening in Warsaw. Design doesn’t even come into the equation in this grubby upstairs bar, but the free spirits can’t get enough of it.

Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 22, tel. 501 048 471. Open 12:00-last guest. A collective groan was issued when their premises on Ząbkowska closed, so it’s three cheers to learn they’re back at a new address. Looking more sanitized than the shabby original, the standout feature of this dark-looking, brick-ceilinged haunt is what ranks as Warsaw’s best collection of craft beers.

Porto Praga (F1) ul. Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 12:001:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00.

Some of Poland’s finest cocktails knocked up by a crew who learned their trade in some of the world’s top bars. Looking ruby red and vaguely art deco, Porto is a one stop destination: a top restaurant and bar shaken into one.

Resort (C2) ul. Bielańska 1, tel. 535 350 997.

Open 12:00-last guest. One of the best designs of 2011, with pretty much all interior features made from reusable materials: seats from shopping trolleys, tables from street signs and a bar from books. Shame about the one dimensional beer choice, therefore.

Sketch (E4) ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch. pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00; upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. Cool, sophisticated and fun. The international spread of beers is impressive, practically unbeatable in fact, and served inside edgy minimalist interiors.

SomePlace Else (E5) ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton), tel. 22 450 6707.

Open Mon 12:00-24:00, Tue-Thur 12:00-2:00, Sat 16:00-2:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. SPE have a

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new cosmopolitan look that makes use of a glowing bar, Minsk grey colours and exposed piping. Certainly the hippest of the hotel gang, live music and expert cocktails make sure it draws more than the lodgers upstairs.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49. Open Sun-Thur 15:0023:00; Fri-Sat 15:00-1:00. The intimate layout makes use of wobbly antiques, sofas covered in velvety fabrics and weird extras like a mannequin donning a Russian hat with furry, flappy ears. Nights typically involve lots of yet-to-be-famous beers (e.g. Stare Misto from Ukraine), while the lamp-lit toilet, seemingly built into a pre-war fireplace, is like stepping through the looking glass.

Spotkanie ze Szpiegiem (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.

You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a small, rotund room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit.

Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, www. syrenispiew.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 17:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00. Brought to you by the creators of Warszawa Powiśle you’ll find this place housed in a hideous concrete monster born in the 70s. An over 21 door policy and over 80 types of whisky lend it a mature, affluent look. The interiors are cool and retro, much like the people. The prices, though, aren’t so much modern as they are totally futuristic – bring plastic.

Szparka (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16A, tel. 22 621 0370. Open 24hrs. A highly generic looking bar whose location and opening hours are enough to warrant it a place on any Going Out list.

Recovering addicts might not appreciate the toilets – they’re decorated with fake lines of sniff.

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open SunThu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00.

More than just a Tex Mex joint, this is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

action from across the world.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.Located in a former ticket shack, this place is all PRL concrete and peeling signage. Looking cheap and chipboard, visual diversions are limited to frayed posters promoting upcoming bands.

Instead, the eye candy comes in the form of the people.

Znajomi Znajomych (D5) ul. Wilcza 58A. Open Sun-Thurs 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-5:00. We’re not sure what kind of design they’ve opted for on the ground level, but either way it doesn’t work. Head upstairs instead to join the hipsters spread across a host of (smoking) rooms. It’s here Zna Zna comes into its own, with a set of chambers decorated in eclectic retro style – including one room which some would describe as a Ron Jeremy orgy room. Things get hot and sticky on their weekend club nights.

CLUBS 1500m2 (F4) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. Set in a former printing factory, 1500m2 has been central to the rise of Powiśle. The industrial space has a real Berlin edge to it, and events range from weekend flea markets to teeth shattering, dusk-tilldawn electro events.

Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl. An extravagant dance space with sparkly chandeliers, regal staircases and a modern Moscow, over-the-top style. Mark the Hed Kandi events in your diary.

DeLite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub.com.

Open Fri-Sat 21:00-last guest. Exposed brick pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror set-up in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, pretty-in-pink, spaceship interiors. Joining the top table of Warsaw’s other ‘uber klubs’ De Lite gets even better once access to the VIP room is scored.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:004:00. Enklawa borders its glitz on kitsch but every weekend, it manages to draw in big

crowds with its lineup of club and pop hits.

The dance floor is always packed, even on weekdays, and it’s a surefire winner as the top Wednesday in town.

The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open Wed-Fri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last guest. Beauty and booty come first in The Eve, a blinged up offshoot of Platinium nearby. A cutthroat door policy ensures plenty of egos crash and die at the door, and it’s got a Bac-

chanalian reputation for champagne popping high jinks. Observe them through the one way mirror in the VIP room.

Klubokawiarnia (D3) ul. Czackiego 8, www.klubo.pl. Open daily 21:00-last guest. If you ignore the latent fire hazard presented by this basement dive club then a Warsaw stalwart awaits. Writhing like a can of sweating worms, find a mid-20s party crowd enjoying house sounds inside a scabby looking space with flea bitten pics of Lenin & Co. Enter via a side door in the courtyard

gateway and let the battle begin.

La Playa ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, www.laplaya.pl.

Mix-up surf inspired cocktails, lager in plastic glasses, a volleyball net, lounge chairs and some spontaneous samba, and you get the most unexpected beach party you’d ever imagine. If you’re feeling particularly daring, go skinny dipping in the murky, muddy Wisła.

Luzztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luzztro.pl. Open

NIGHTLIFE Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty?

Then check Luzztro, a grim, grotty den where rules don’t apply. Embedded in folklore, this after-party legend really kicks off at around 5am, when troglodyte club creatures emerge

Shot Bars Bar Warszawa (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, Tel. 504 320 497.

Open 24hrs. A new bar inspired by old times. Creak upstairs to find a womb-like space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations like vintage radios, pics of old stars and black and white images of bare-breasted ladies.

Run as a side hobby by a TV producer, the opening hours meet with full approval.

Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21.

Open 11:00-6:00. Affecting the style of a PRL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to chains of bog paper that commonly retailed.

The menu, designed by TV chef Robert Sowa, is exactly what you’d have found in the old days, and best enjoyed with a cold nip of voddie. $ Pijalnia Bow-tied staff serve vodka and pickles from behind a tiled bar to a crowd that gets younger as the day gets older. In quieter times, check the newspaperd walls to read up on 1980s sports reports.

Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open 24 hours. Shots of vodka and plates of Polish stomach liners are dispensed inside a mirrored environment with droopy plants. It’s an after club must, with stern service guaranteed from agitated oldies dressed in tuxedos. Packed to the brim come three, four even five am.

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Warszawska (D6) Pl. Zbawiciela 5, tel. 600 121 240. Open 24hrs. When Plan B closes the hardcore head here. Little more than a grey concrete room, this newbie is winning the war as the city’s favorite shot bar.

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to put the finishing touches to their saucereyed stare. Your No. 1 choice for electro and minimal, it’s the full-tilt clubbing experience. Your head will hate you.

Miasto Cypel ul. Zaruskiego 6, miastocypel.eu. Open Mon-Thur 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-6:00; Sat 12:00-6:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Located in a forest clearing near the banks of the Wisła, this miniature creative community includes a campsite and flea market. Visit late on a weekend to find the marquees and open-air stages jumping to diverse sounds enjoyed by a varied crowd. Greeting sunrise here can be an ethereal experience, though a tolerance to mosquitoes and other hungry critters is required.

Opera Club (D2) Underground of Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 828 7075, www.operaclub.pl.

Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. A labyrinth of passageways and chambers await in Opera, a subterranean club located underneath the National Theater. Touting an exotic, far eastern look, it’s one of the best designed clubs you could imagine.

Space Club (A5) ul. Kolejowa 37/39, tel. 606 617 228, www.club-space.eu. Open Fri-Sat 23:006:00. A true techno club with crazy lights, a great sound system, big name DJs, and lots of room to waggle about and enjoy Ibiza flashbacks.

Utopia (D3) ul. Kredytowa 9. Formerly of Jasna, Warsaw’s first club to bring in serious door selection is back, and this time within a throw of the main party drag. Flying under a pseudo pink banner, it’s a love or loathe venue full of A-Z list stars and their hangers on.

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Watch Me ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, www.watchmeclub. pl. Open 19:00-4:00. Watch the lack of customers, more like. Seen as a glass block from the outside, Watch Me unravels into a multi-level club space, one with a sunken dance pit and a neon stripped stairwell.

When the Insider visited, staff outnumbered the guests.

GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS

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Organza ul. Mazowiecka 12, www.kluborganza.pl.

Open Wed-Sat 19:00-4:00. The layout is basic: set over two floors lit in Organza’s signature orange/black colors, there’s not much to comment in terms of design – it’s shiny and new and all things Warsaw.

The crowd though likes to party and lacks the airs and arrogance of neighboring establishments.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, www.platiniumclub.pl. Open Wed-Sat 20:00-6:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/ Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Silk Pl. Powstańców 2. Open Fri-Sat 20:00-6:00.

There’s a sense of the exclusive about Silk, what with its black canopied entrance and blinged up crowd. Inside exposed pipework and glittery pillars fit along nicely with the pop art murals and hip hop sounds – the dance floor is an extrovert’s arena.

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

New Orleans ul. Zgoda 11, tel.

22 826 4831, www. neworleans.pl. Open 21:00-4:00. High rollers looking to clinch a deal in unusual surrounds should consider doing so in New Orleans: a gentleman’s club with a seriously VIP dining area. Cheaper snack and sandwich options available should you prefer to spend your money on the real reason you’re here…

Playhouse Al. Solidarności 82A, www.playhouse. com.pl. Housed in a former bomb shelter, would you believe it. Now though the talk is of bombshells, namely the 57 they’ve got on their books. Like most clubs, this place features a distinctly Slavic lineup of Poles, Russians and Ukrainians.

Sin ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, www.sinclub. com.pl. One of the biggest and best dance stables in town offers a pleasingly international line-up that demonstrates a serious recruitment drive. You won’t find a more central strip club in town.

Reviews: Frenchy Store 61 Plus:

* 1 update

SHOPPING ACCESSORIES 63 / FASHION 61 / SHOPPING MALLS 64

Insider’s Pick

FASHION Ania Kuczyńska (E5) ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs.

The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Bizuu ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 609 888 363, www.bizuu.pl. A gorgeous, feminine collection from two talented Polish designers – including, the must need pastels of the coming season.

Frenchy Store ul. Wspólna 27A, tel. 500 541 473, www.frenchystore.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-17:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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ff the beaten boutique path that is Mokotowska and Koszykowa, this hip, urban fashion store breathes a little bit of Paris into this stretch of Warsaw. Located opposite the out-proportioned Ministry of Agriculture, this unique spot looks the part, with a crisp, stark design that would slide seamlessly into the 11th arrondissement. With that in mind, it’s no surprise to learn the operation is the baby of French-born Patrick Stanisławski, and his partner Agata Wasiljev. Together they’ve pooled their eye for fashion and design to create something of a home for ‘streetwear glam’. Offering a compelling combo of Parisian hipster staples and upcoming indie labels, the choice is anything but pedestrian. “The range is aimed at those who appreciate originality,” confides Patrick, “the people who want to stand out but also care for high quality products.”

On the footwear front the offer includes the latest chunky contributions from Nike Sportwear, Vans, New Balance and Onistuka Tiger. The clothing angle is covered by Risk.

Made in Warsaw, a successful attempt by local designers to mimic wider global street fashions. Other designs have been kept in-house, and as such Frenchy Store retail their own brand t-shirts and bags. It’s the variation and diversity of the offer that impresses though. So the clothes don’t do it for you? Fine, check out the accessories then. Like, for instance, the smart leather strap watches and distinct eyewear from Komono. Those who carry money, check out the Mighty Wallet range: available in a slew of interesting designs that range from a London tube map to a crime scene tape.

Warsaw girls have been adorning themselves with Lilou bracelets for ages now – it’s old hat. Check out instead the range of Candy Crystal bracelets (in over 100 colors) or kit out for the forthcoming autumn with scarves from the SiS Colourful range. All aspects of a hipsters existence are covered, and that’s emphatically proved by the multicolored suitcases, statement headphones and the bike in the window.

Blind Cafe Concept Store (D6) ul. Mokotowska 63/100 (courtyard).

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 13:00-18:00.

This eclectic 50’s-style place is well-stocked with unique pieces for women and cool gadgets for men. A perfect place for those who are looking for something more than a mall for a style fix.

Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00.

A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander. The current collection is a true tribute to S/S 2012 - bright colours, florals, platform heels and wedges.

Clue (E3) ul. Solec 101, tel. 22 695 7897, www.cluefashion.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Clue stocks items from Moschino, ASOS, DKNY, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Cavalli, Steve Madden, Armani, as well as up-and-coming designers, and a number of children’s brands.

Designer Secret Al. Witosa 31 (1st floor, outlet 119), CH Panorama, tel. 506 051 048, www.designersecret.pl. High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with women and men’s apparel from the 2008-2010 collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price.

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SHOPPING Ermenegildo Zegna (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7000, www. zegna.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Everything for the well-dressed man, from suits to belts, and sportswear.

Flaming & Co. (D6) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 629 0545, www.flaming-co.com.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00.

This concept store, now re-opened on ul.

Mokotowska after renovation work, brings a fresh seaside breeze to Warsaw. Also checkout the branch of Flaming & Kids on ul. Mokotowska.

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Follow Me ul. Okrąg 1, tel. 669 295 567. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-19:30; Sat 11:00-15:00. A superb footwear store with Italian import brands such as Mauro Leone.

Justyna Chrabelska (by appt) (E6) tel. 502 437 200, info@justynachrabelska. com, www.justynachrabelska.com. One of Warsaw’s most talented designers runs her own showroom in the center solely by appointment. With stylish, feminine dresses or funky contemporary dresses each season, this is the place to score the perfect dress, whether you’re a celebrity or just want to dress like one.

L’Aura (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.

Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho.

Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 (courtyard), tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Lilla Moda (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, Klif www.lilla.com.pl.

Here you’ll find exclusive Italian clothing brands, including Versace Jeans, Just Cavalli, GF FERRE, D&G, EXTE and Liu Jo. Loding Shoes and Shirts (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, 1st Floor, tel. 22 541 3774, www.loding.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. The respected French shirtand-shoemaker recently opened its first shop in Warsaw. The place to go for top-of-the-line shirts, cufflinks and made-to-order dress shoes for the well-dressed man.

Loft Fashion ul. Burakowska 5/7 (2nd floor), tel. 22 636 0255, www.loft-fashion.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Everything the businessman requires: suits, shirts, shoes and cigars. Impeccable tri-lingual service in a top location. In July you can enjoy a summer clearance with 70% off.

Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759 ul. Żurawia 2, tel. 22 628 2217 snob@snobissimo.pl, www.snobissimo.pl

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WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

Deha, Gianvito Rossi, Sona Rykiel, Les Copains, Paule Ka, Jimmy Choo, Giuseppe Zanotti, Wolford, Sergio Rossi

Luxury & Liberty (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. Once a bar, its fashion counterpart managed to come back in style with a sprawling new boutique in the Promenada shopping centre. While the location’s a bit inconvenient, the selection of quality designer gear at L&L and other shops makes it well worth the trip.

Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of

the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom.

Max Mara ul. Nowy Świat 1. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Poland’s first Max Mara mega store, with interior designed by Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Find all the latest from Max Mara Runway and the Max Mara Atelier coat collection, as well as Sportmax Runway and a growing range of in-house accessories.

Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, office@ moliera2.com, www.moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, store@ plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo.

Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories.

Premiere (A2) Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710. The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48 (courtyard), tel. 690 021 787, www.robertkupisz.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00. One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner, and Kupisz’s latest collection is a tribute to Americana: think disheveled cowgirls flouncing on the prairie.

Redford and Grant (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, www.redfordandgrant.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00.

This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate

destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada.

Reykjavik District (F4) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, www.reykjavikdistrict.com. Open Tues-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Rodrigo de la Garza (Ochota) ul. Bema 65, suite 6; www.delagarza.it.

Opening hours: by appointment. Rodrigo de la Garza is an eponymous menswear label started up by an ambitious young man from Mexico who’s happened to opt for Poland as his home base. The designer’s speciality is custom-made, or bespoke suits, ideally cut and in all the styles and patterns you could possibly conjure up.

See Me Boutique ul. Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 629 0404. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Major pieces from American and European designers, including Paul & Joe, as well as the Elizabeth and James line from the Olsen twins.

Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, www.snobissimo.pl. Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a onestop shop to re-boot your wardrobe.

ACCESSORIES 400 Rabbits (E6) ul. Mokotowska 24, tel. 22 629 2636, www.rs-store.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. This is more than just a sneaker shop. Art, sport and fashion unite in this funky space.

Bagatt (E6) ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 621 9144.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.

Bagatt features Italian-made footwear. A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Pl. Trzech Krzyży.

The only organic market in Warsaw

Fresh fruit and vegetables Dairy products, free range eggs Bread and pastry Meat, poultry and cold meats Wine and beer Cosmetics and cleaning products

CERTIFIED ORGANIC PRODUCTS Warszawa Żelazna 51/53 (former Norblin factory) every Saturday 8:00-16:00 ECO EVENTS! EVERY FIRST SATURDAY OF THE MONTH WE EXCHANGE ELECTRO WASTE FOR ECO GIFTS! payment in cash or by card (on selected stands) free parking for clients

JOIN US ON FACEBOOK UNDER THE PATRONAGE OF:

Batycki (various locations) ul. Zgoda 9 & ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Bristol Hotel), tel. 22 828 2167,

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SHOPPING www.batycki.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00. Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite.

Church’s (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00.

A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes.

Frey Wille (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503, www.frey-wille.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-

19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Viennabased jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, www.mokotowska63.com.

Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Kate & Kate (D5)

ul. Wspólna 50A/20, tel. 501 021 841, www.kateandkate.pl Open Mon-Fri 13:0019:00; Sat 10:00-14:00 This shop is so tucked away, you’d never find it without heads up from a friend or fellow Insider. But once you do, be prepared to enter a world of brilliant accessories.

Pracownia Czasu ul. Wiejska 14, tel. 622 12 12, www.pracowniaczasu.pl. Luxury watches from brands like Corum, Vulcain, Ulysee Nardin, Magellan and Fortis.

SHOPPING MALLS Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 Blue City (A6) Al. Jerozolimskie 179, www.bluecity.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Fashion House Outlet Centre (E8) ul. Puławska 42E, www.fashionhouse.pl

“The clothes are chic, cut well and there is a bit of everything for everyone” - WARSAW INSIDER

“It’s a good place for fashion lovers and those who like to experiment” - GAZETA WYBORCZA

“reykjavik district delights with simplicity, high end fashion and anoriginal look to the shop. It’s a really nice alternative for men” - ZWIERCIADŁO MAGAZINE

Boutique: ul. Solec 18/20 Tue- Fri 13:00-19:00 Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00 +48 505 499 669 www.reykjavikdistrict.pl

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Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15. Open Mon-Thurs 9:0021:30; Fri 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, www.klif.pl. Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Promenada (Saska Kępa) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, www.promenada.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00 Vitkac Wolf Bracka Wolf Center, ul. Bracka 9, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Gucci, Bottega, Yves Saint Laurent, etc…

Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

Reviews: Lalka 65

CHILDREN ACTIVITIES 65 / CAFES 66 / EDUCATION 66

Insider’s Pick

ACTIVITIES Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, www.kopernik.org.pl. A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

Little Chef Cooking classes for children age 4-16.

Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cookand-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English, French and Polish, Mon-Sat. Visit www.littlechef.pl or call 0501 093 691 for more information.

Lalka Pl. Defilad 1 (Palace of Culture), tel. 22 620 49 60, www.teatrlalka.pl.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

A

fter books I think theatre is possibly one of the best places to touch a child’s imagination and arouse curiosity – and it’s never too early to start. Warsaw is home to several children’s theatres; my favorite is certainly Teatr Lalka. A trip to this theatre is a treat for the whole family, but for a child the sense of occasion really begins when faced with the theatre’s imposing, four-columned façade and the looming presence of the Palace of Culture, with its glaring statues towering skywards. Once inside there is space to drop off coats, grab a program or refreshment and immerse yourself in the buzz of theatre followed by the excitement of finding your seat.

My daughter and I have been privvy to several regular productions at Lalka; Tigers (Tygryski), is a simple, fun and colorful 50 minute stage adaptation of the poem Read to me Mum’ by Joanna Papuzińska, perfect for those aged 3+. The story of Noah’s Ark told in The Ark of the Eighth (Na Arce o ósmej) requires some explanation before taking your seat. Be prepared for an inquisition from your offspring: the dilemma of three penguins, as opposed to the ‘two by two’ rule, leads to some rather melodramatic scenes. Hansel and Gretel (Jaś i Małgosia), a story known the world over, is performed with a Polish avant-garde twist. But as the curtain rises on Warsaw’s 2012/2013 Arts and Entertainment season, I’m anticipating the production of Homer’s epic poem The Odyssey, albeit with some trepidation!

An ancient Greek mythological story told in Polish sounds nerve wrecking enough; add the fact that the Polish, given a microphone, are rather partial to the odd monologue, one might rethink purchasing tickets altogether. But with the knowledge that the performance (+8yrs, no interval) runs for a manageable 70 minutes and not the ten years it took Odysseus to return to Ithaca, I feel confident our limited Polish will cope – so two front seats in the house for us. (GBB)

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.

Over 300 locations worldwide, with the first one in Poland opened last November. Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

EDUCATION PRESCHOOLS

Bilingual French – Polish Preschool “Trampoline” ul. Zakopiańska 12a (Saska Kępa) and ul. Skrzetuskiego 17 (Mokotów),mob.

502 355 919, www.trampoline.edu.pl.

This preschool has a lingual profile and offers bilingual teaching with French and English.

They received the European Label Certificate for innovative foreign language teaching.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel.

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CHILDREN 22 646 7777; ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Primary, Secondary, IB Diploma program), tel. 22 842-3281; www.thebritishschool.pl. The British School provides special classes from the pre-nursery group – including children from preschool through secondary school.

Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool (C11) ul. Kalatówki 24, tel. 22 898 3139, 697 979 100. The pre-school branch of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides both Polish and International 3-5 year olds with the perfect setting for their first encounters with English and French in an inquiry based classroom.

Here, every task relates to real life experience and skills. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: preschool@canadian-school.pl.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3

green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age.

Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de SaintExupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16, tel./fax: 22 616 1499, www.saintexupery.pl. Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 2½ years old.

The English Playhouse (F12) ul. Płyćwiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, www.theenglishplayhouse. com. The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The preschool follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@theenglishplayhouse.com.

English-run preschool Authentic Montessori curriculum Unique music program Natural playground Healthy nutrition

ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46a (entrance from ul. Rotmistrzowska)

tel. +48 531 599 444 www.mapletreemontessori.pl

English-run preschool Authentic Montessori curriculum Unique music program Natural playground Healthy nutrition

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International Schoolhouse Warsaw

ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46a (entrance from ul. Rotmistrzowska)

tel. +48 531 599 444 www.mapletreemontessori.pl

Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 427 3767, mob. 697 060 504, www.hmh.com.pl.

The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46a (entrance from ul. Rotmistrzowska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl.

Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by an Orff/ Kodály-based music syllabus. Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a International Schoolhouse Warsaw

quiet street. Their program, which is designed for three to six year-olds, is devoted to the intellectual, emotional, social and physical development of children.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów) ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), tel. 502 315 022, www.monte ssoriacademy.eu. An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

Tequesta ul. Przejazd 24, tel. 603 919 096/535 400 033, info@tequesta. pl, www.tequesta.pl. Polish and English language groups for children aged from six months to six years, as well as a wide range of extra-curricular activities.

Oznaczenie koloru:

staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provides for an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

Extra-curricular activities include pottery, dance, ballet, capoeira, karate, emotional intelligence, art studio and tennis. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: secretary@canadian-school.pl.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 20,

tel. 697 977 600, 697 979 300.

The Middle and High unit of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 11-19 year olds. With both Canadian and Polish curricula content students are given the opportunity to choose between Polish Matura or IB Diploma exams.

International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: mid.high@ canadian-school.pl.

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American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 702 8500, fax 022 702 8500, admissions@aswarsaw. org, www.aswarsaw.org. The American School of Warsaw provides comprehensive programs and facilities based on a US system of education for ages 4 to 18.

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The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw with comprehensive programs and facilities based on the British system of education.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School Unit ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646 9289, 697 970 244.

The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 6-10 year olds. Highly qualified, international

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CHILDREN Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) Established in 1994, the Antoine de SaintExupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children two to eight years old (3rd year of primary school) in a welcoming family atmosphere.

Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers.

www.kidsacademy.com.pl. A Private English Polish School which provides an excellent early educational program for children from ages 2.5 - 5 years old and at the Primary School, from Grade 0. Combining elements of both the Polish and British curriculum, the focus is on creating a positive and vibrant learning environment. They’re also proud of their large playground and variety of healthy foods.

Lycée Français de Varsovie

Kid’s Academy Primary & Pre-School ul. Arbuzowa 33D (Wilanów), ul. Łąkowa 38 (Konstancin), tel. 501 205 080,

ul. Walecznych 4/6, tel. 22 616 5400, www.lfv.pl. French school admitting students from the age of two years old. All instruction is in French. Languages offered : Polish, English, German, Spanish, Latin. Also, a wide variety of after school activities (sport, arts, extra-curricular instruction).

Warsaw Montessori School (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

COME AND JOIN US! www.thelittlegym.pl

Parent/Child Classes

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Pre-school

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

Primary School Gymnastics

Holiday Camps

Birthday parties

Reviews: Hot Dog Salon 69 / Plus:

* 2 updates

LIFESTYLE

ACCOMODATION 69 / COMMUNITY 75 / HEALTH & BEAUTY 72 / MEDICAL 73 / TRANSPORTATION 71

ACCOMODATION

Insider’s Pick

HOTELS IN WARSAW 5-star hotels

Hilton Warsaw (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, www.hilton.com. Single and double room €95-125 (weekend), €135 (weekdays).

Excellent services and amenities in a world-class hotel and conference centre.

Holmes Place Lifestyle Club offers premium fitness facilities.

Hot Dog Salon ul. Śniadeckich 18, tel. 502 616 766, info@e-hotdog.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-19:00 (by appointment).

M

y puppy is a handful. She’s a wild thing, desperate to roam free, rather than patiently wait for me to finish picking up some things at the shop. I’m always in pursuit of the ideal new harness, hardy enough to withstand those prickly little teeth. It was along this pursuit that I discovered the sweetest little pet salon just behind Pl. Konstytucji.

I was perusing the selection of designer leashes, jackets, sweaters, beds, toys and treats when a young woman walked in with a rather shaggy pooch named Gina. Gina was clearly in desperate need of a trim and we began chatting about pet primping. Turns out this miniature schnauzer absolutely loves getting pampered and it’s only after a visit to Hot Dog that she truly exemplifies all the traits that make a designer dog just that. “People turn their heads when Gina trots by straight after her trim and treatment, I’m not joking,” her owner confides. For the first time I start to regret that my sweet little mutt has the type of fur that needs absolutely no trimming whatsoever, but that’s certainly not the case with my sister’s mangy little half-breed schnauzer who always looks like she’s just been hit by lightening and then doused with a bucket of water.

As a surprise I took little Lola (whom we call LOLkers because of her funny looks) for one of Hot Dog’s signature treatments, which consists of a bath, mani/pedi, ear cleaning, conditioning, brushing and trim. I stuck by just in case because she’s not the most easygoing dog, but she was in absolute heaven getting all the attention she so craves. I left her for the remaining hour-and-a-half to indulge in pet bliss. When I returned, she had been transformed into a sleek little pooch that could hold her head high as she trotted the Warsaw pavement (all for just about zł. 100), leaving my sister in shock when she saw this devilish dog turned into an absolute angel. (AL)

Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, www.warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. Venti Tre Italian Restaurant, Q Club Restaurant and Bar, Club Oasis Fitness Centre, indoor swimming pool, spa & massage services. Offical base of Poland’s Euro 2012 football team.

InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Single & double rooms: €95-155. Riverview Wellness Centre and swimming pool on top floor.

Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com. Single room: €129-159, double room: €139-169.

Fitness centre, gym, swimming pool, sauna.

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com. Muffle up for an evening prowl around old town, before spoiling yourself inside the desginer confines of this boutique masterpiece. Prices start from approx. €115, but it’s well worth your time browsing their ‘romantic break’ and ‘just married’ packages.

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Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306,

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LIFESTYLE www.warsawmarriott.com. Prices from: zł.

231 (weekends), zł. 528 (weekdays). Gym and swimming pool. Central location only 20 minutes from the airport. All rooms with panoramic view.

The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Top-class boutique hotel in the centre of Warsaw. Single room: €140, double room: €170, apartment: €220.

24-hour fitness centre for guests only.

Sheraton (E5) ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw,

tel. 22 450 6100. Single & double rooms: €77126. Fitness centre, aerobic studio, sauna.

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Single & double rooms zł. 420-490 (weekend rate from zł.250). First Class Fitness Centre.

Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €95200. Swimming pool now open to the public.

Westin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw. Single & double rooms: €77-126. Gym and sauna.

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3-star hotels

Hotel Belwederski (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl. Single room: zł. 240, double room: zł. 280. On weekends 20% discount (Fri-Mon). Breakfast included.

Castle Inn (D1) Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl.

Single & double rooms (Standard castle view): zł.190-290. Deluxe apartments: zł. 279-430. Breakfast: zł. 20. Artsy boutique accomodation on the castle square. For cheaper alternative, check their downtown hostel branch, the Oki Doki

4-star hotels

Radisson Blu (B5) pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl. Single & double rooms €60-94. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.

Golden Tulip (B5) ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500. Single & double rooms: Mon.-Fri. zł. 369, weekend: zł. 299, breakfast (buffet): zł. 32. Sauna, jacuzzi, fitness room.

Holiday Inn (C4) ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com. Single room: €100 (weekend), €124 (weekdays), double room: €120 (weekend), €144 (weekdays). Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.­

Warsaw Gromada Hotel Airport ul. 17-ego Stycznia 32, tel. 22 576 4600, warszawa.airport@gromada.pl. Single & double rooms: zł. 250-420 (weekdays), single & double rooms: zł. 200-330 (weekends). Sauna, gym, free for hotel guests.

Mercure Grand Warszawa (D4) ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl.

Single & double rooms: €78-112.

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki, www.hiexpress.com. Three minutes from the airport, the Express chapter of Holiday Inn is opening on 30 November and already accepting bookings. Check web for further details.

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Single & double rooms: €135 (weekdays), €99 (weekend).

Chopin Airport. Single & double rooms: €155, €123 (weekdays). Single & double rooms: €70-80 (weekends). Jacuzzi, sauna, tennis courts, and gym.

Novotel Warszawa Centrum (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com.

Single and double rooms: zł.265-480.

Wellness centre and sauna.

Hotel Reytan (E8) ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www. reytan.pl. Single room: zł. 360 (week), zł.

250 (weekend). Double room: zł. 390-550 (week), zł. 270-390 (weekend). Breakfast included.

Polonia Palace Hotel (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com. Single & double rooms: €60-235. 24-hour fitness centre for hotel guests only.

Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000, nov.airport@orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €120-135. Swimming pool, jacuzzi, tennis court, Finnish sauna, power plate.

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.pl. Airport Hotel Okęcie is located 800 m from Warsaw Frederic

APARTMENTS

WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

Central Apart ul. Łucka 2/4/6 m.45, tel. 22 357 0975, www.wawahotele.pl. Apartments for one

to four people in locations across town.

Prices from zł. 190.

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com.

Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc.

MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana. A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

P & O Apartments ul. Kasprowicza 91, tel. 22 636 8699, www.pandoapartments.com.pl.

Top One Apartments ul. Graniczna 4, tel. 608 205 769, www.topnoclegwarszawa.pl.

TRANSPORTATION CAR RENTAL

Avis (C5) tel. 22 572 6565, fax 22 572 6566, Fredrick Chopin Airport, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 650 4872/3.

Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl.

Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360.

Reservations: tel. 22 500 1620, 800 143 789.

AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702-1072, fax 022 702-1077.

Besto Relocations ul. Kłobucka 8 /127, tel. 22 847 8878, mob. 514 643 286, warsaw@bestorelocations.com, www.bestorelocations.com.

High-quality international relocation services to and from Poland for corporate and individual clients.

CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com.

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, fax 22 511 1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, fax 022 650 2032, www.sixt.pl.

Crown Relocations ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 894 5929 or 22 578 2093, www.crownrelo.com.

Trust Rent a Car (C12) ul. Konstruktorska 4, mob. 0602 475 355, www.trustrentacar.pl.

DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/17, tel. 22 670 4280, www.duxconsulting.com.pl.

RELOCATION COMPANIES

Express Relocations

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LIFESTYLE ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com.

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, moving@euromove.pl, www.euromove.pl.

Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, fax 22 701 7177, warsaw@interdean.com, www.interdean.com. With 120 relocation service centres and employs 3,150 international relocation services staff across Europe and EMEA, and over 600 alliances worldwide.

Move One Relocations tel. 22 630 8160, poland@moveoneinc.com, www.moveoneinc.com. Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. Award-winning service from a company that’s been active in the field since 1992.

HEALTH & BEAUTY SPAS & SALONS

AcuMed Asian Therapies ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355 100, www.tuina.pl. Qigong – Daoyin – Meditation in small groups. Also offers special exercises for improving physical & mental health and increasing energy.

Beauty Secret/Spa/Retreat ul. Nowowiejska 38, Józefów,

tel. 22 789 2016, www.beautysecret.pl.

Located about 20 km outside of Warsaw, Beauty Secret is the place to go and recharge your batteries, relax and get pampered.

B&B Clinic ul. Grzybowska 3, tel. 22 403 65 72, www.bbclinic.pl. An array of body and beaity treatments inside pristine five star facilities.

Whether you want to slim down using the latest technologies, rejuvenate the skin or relax during a massage, there’s few better qualified. 10% for Insider readers.

Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Koszykowa 31, tel. 22 621 1404, www.nailspabiosis.pl. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries.

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160, www.bodyclinic.pl. Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

Club Oasis Spa Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel.

22 851 0563, www.cluboasis.pl. Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw. Amazing Clarins body firming and rejuvenating treatments, facials, reflexology and wide range of massages at the beauty center round out a healthy lifestyle.

The Cutting House – Exclusive Hairdressing (E5) ul. Wiejska 20, www.cuttinghouse.pl, tel. 22 622 6362. The Cutting Salon has an elegant polish on a contemporary design and a wide variety of celebs, diplomats and your run-ofthe-mill fashionista dropping in for a trim or a manicure. You will not be disappointed.

Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session.

Going futher East, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage, as well as all the other more typical spa services.

Dior Institute and Dessange Beauty Salon Metropolitan Building, pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 22 331 0808, www.diorinstitut.com.

This sleek boutique offers a state-of-the-art treatment room and professional staff for all your pampering needs.

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DS Instytut Al. Ujazdowskie 24, tel. 22 622 13 81, www. dsinstytut.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 8:00-16:00. Different treatments: some relaxing, some energizing, some both! The latest player on the block has set its cards on technology, packing a pretty penny into stateof-the-art machines that deliver Hollywood results.

Fabryka Próżnosci ul. Cecylii Śniegockiej 8 lok.101, tel. 22 312 1909, www.fabrykaproznosci.pl. Has a full suit of facials, massages (all the main schools are represented); competitive prices, and plenty of English-speaking therapists.

Fish Spa ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 22 414 3737, www.fishspainstytut.pl. Let 200 Garra Rufa fish do the work on your pedicure and manicure. Alternatively, enjoy more traditional (ie. less fishy) facials and body massages – all at reaonable prices in the heart of the center.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414, www. fiuufiuu.pl. A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products.

Hair Club Warsaw ul. Kruczkowskiego 6, tel. 22 828 0288, www.hairclubwarsaw.pl. Hair Club dispense with the farce and make your hair look great.

They also provide manicures and pedicures and even throw in a decent free coffee.

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Izar Repechage ul. Moliera 1, tel. 22 827 7195, www.repechage.net.pl. A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatment for the whole body.

Le Spa (E5) ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428.

This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

Multico Wellness & Spa ul. Bitwy pod Rokitną 1 (in Old Żoliborz), tel. 22 869 9631, www.multico.pl. A modern fitness center and gorgeous pool make this a chic place to work out and relax.

Now offers spa services and great massages.

Pearl Spa at the InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, 43 floor, tel. 22 328 8643, www.pearlspa.pl. This bright and full of windows spa has an eclectic menu of “body rituals” such as the Maghreb ritual and Ayurvedic massages.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, www.jejijego.pl. Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

com/warsaw. Fitness center, aerobic studio, sauna. Price: zł. 3,420/year.

classes. The view from the pool offers a glorious panoramic view of the city.

Holmes Place Lifestyle Club at the Hilton Hotel (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 630 6306, www.holmesplace.pl. Premium fitness and leisure centre that offers a wide and diverse range of activities, top quality training equipment and expert staff. Holmes Place also operates two more Energy Clubs in Galeria Mokotów and Arkadia.

World Class Health Academy (B4) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, www.worldclass.pl.

Mon-Fri 6:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 8:00-21:00.

Situated inside Warsaw’s Marriott hotel, this gym offers all the fitness services you need.

RiverView Wellness Centre at the InterContinental Hotel (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8640, www.riverview.com.pl. Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small

AcuMed Asian Therapies – Traditional Medicine Clinic ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355 100. www.tuina.pl. Holistic treatment of spinal, headaches, stress, pains, allergies.

MEDICAL MEDICAL PRIVATE CLINICS

Ren Clinic is a modern clinic specializing in the field of surgical care cosmetics, medical dermatology and aesthetic medicine.

Sungate Beauty & Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 22 582 9474, 517 012 880, www.spasungate.pl.

Open 10:00-24:00. A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments as well as a VIP room for couples.

FITNESS CLUBS

Club Oasis Fitness Centre & Spa (E8) Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 22 851 0563, www.cluboasis.pl. Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw, with state-of-the-art machines, great pool and Zen-like ambiance.

Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel (E8) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Fitness club, swimming pool, sauna, gym, group classes in one of Warsaw’s best five stars. zł.100 per day.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel (E5) ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.

We offer: • Laserotherapy

• Removal of stretch marks • Shallowing acne and traumatic scars

• Wrinkle removal using a Palomar Star Lux 500 • Closing deep vassels • Laser hair removal • Endermology • Aesthetic Medicine

- Special offer AndreZadozda: - 50% for Endremolit face treatment and body treatments including an hour-long body massage al. gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok. 12A tel. 22 414 2222, www.renclinic.pl

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LIFESTYLE Austria-Dent-Center (B4) ul. Żelazna 54, tel. 22 654 2116, www.austriadent.pl.

The OMC doctors offer acupuncture, acupressure, herbal medicines, and medical massage for complete health.

Centrum Pomocy Profesjonalnej (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 80, floor 21, room 129, Babka Tower, tel. 22 637 4080; ul. Puławska 257 (floor 1, suite 71), Melody Park, tel. 22 241 2444, www.cpp.eu.

Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl. Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

Dentalux ul. Racławicka 131, tel. 22 823 7222, ul.

Puławska 257, tel. 22 256 8010, pulawska@ dentalux.pl.www.dentalux.pl.

Margaret Rybak, Psy.D. ul. Lipska 27/24. US-trained doctoral level psychologist. APA member. Specialises in individual psychotherapy for adults and children. For more information: www.mrybak.waw.pl, mob. 606 518 151.

Ren Clinic Al. Gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok. 12A, tel. 22 414 2222, www. renclinic.pl. Surgical care, cosmetics, medical dermatology, aesthetic medicine and more.

Well Now Dental Clinic (Wilanów) ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 2A, tel. 22 403 8800, www.wellnow.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-20:30, Sat 9:30-14:30.

PRIVATE CLINICS

ARUMED Arumed Oriental Medical Center, ul. Noakowskiego 8, tel. 22 825 93 96.

Centrum Damiana ul. Wałbrzyska 46, ul. Foksal 3/5, al. K.E.N 103, tel. 22 566 2222, www.damian. com.pl.

Enel-Med Medical Centre Atrium Plaza, Al. Jana Pawła II 29; Arkadia (A1), Al. Jana Pawła II 82; Blue City, Al. Jerozolimskie 179; www.enel.pl For an appointment: tel. 22 311 7777.

Eurodental ul. Nowowiejska 37, tel. 22 857 0088, www.eurodental.pl.

tel. 22 332 2888, www.luxmed.pl.

Medicover Center Atrium, Al. Jana Pawła II 27, ul. Inflancka 5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. 18, ul. Domaniewska 37, ul. Puławska 278, ul. Poligonowa 3. Hotline: 19 677 or 500 900 500, Medicover Hospital on Al. Rzeczypospolitej 5 in Wilanów tel. 500 900 900, www.medicover.com.

Vertebralia ul. Postępu 6, tel. 22 449 2828, www.vertebralia.pl. A clinic specializing in the integrated treatment of all kinds of spinal illness. With 20 years of experience, they perform innovative treatments with state-ofthe-art equipment.

24-HOUR PHARMACIES

Al. Jana Pawła II 52/54 Al. Solidarności 149, tel. 22 620 0818. ul. Wilcza 31, tel. 22 834 5804. ul. Puławska 39

POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS

Lim Medical Center Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (C5), ul. Domaniewska Academia Polonica (C5) 41, ul. 17-ego Stycznia 49, Al. Jana Pawła II 78, Al. Jerozolimskie 55 loc.15, tel. 22 629 9311, www.academia-polonica.com.pl. Offering a tel. 22 458 7000, www.cmlim.pl. choice of special programs such as: Polish in Lux Med Medical Clinics Business, General Polish Language, Polish for ul. Racławicka 132b, ul. Chmielna 85/87; Academics and Polish for Professionals. ul. Puławska 15; ul. Kopernika 30 (E4); Akademia PFF (H4) ul. Szernera 3; Al. Jerozolimskie 162; 24hr ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11, hotline: 801 800 808, for mobile users:

POLISH LANGUAGE SCHOOL FOR FOREIGNERS Tailor-made INDIVIDUAL and MINIGROUP courses - intensive - regular - weekend at the school or at your place First Lesson Free Free conversation classes

tel. 664 788 004 info@klubdialogu.pl www.klubdialogu.pl

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tel. 501 299 338, www.pff-warsaw.com, email: info@ pff-warsaw.com. Akademia PFF offers a wide range of Polish courses for foreigners at low cost in-company or other convenient locations. Professional and friendly tutors with effective teaching styles.

Professionals in Warsaw Hosts meetings in the city to link up professionals, those new to Warsaw, or those here for the long haul. For more info contact Andy (mob. 691 535 566) or the group page on Facebook.

Taste of the Classics A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, Edu & More fine art and dinner entertainment, held ul. Marszałkowska 87 lok. 81, tel. 22 622 regularly in prime locations. The events 1441, www.eduandmore.com. Business & alternate between formal and semi-formal everyday Polish. Full-time courses and innova- dress and are held in English. Attendance is by tive courses of Polish online. Experience, invitation and includes dinner and wine. good location & price friendly. Students of For further info: please contact Richard Berkefull-time courses get online course for free. ley: berkeley@fnok.pl or tel. 502 965 353.

Toastmasters International (E5) Toastmasters Polska club invites all to the weekly meetings, to master the art of Public Speaking and presentation skills. Meetings every Wednesday at 19.00 in the Warsaw Stock Exchange, Catalyst room 1st floor, ul. Książęca 4. More info at toastmasters.org. pl or ring Etan at tel. 696 292 451.

The Warsaw School of Photography Offering photography courses in English for beginners and intermediate. With facilities including studios, classrooms, a computer center, a darkroom and an art gallery For more info: www.wsfoto.art.pl/english.

Klub Dialgou ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13/156, tel. 664 788 994, www.klubdialogu.pl. Individual and group courses held either on-site or at the venue of your choice. Tailor-made packages inc. both intensive and weekend courses.

Lingua Polonica Lingua Polonica offers general Polish language classes, Polish for business and Polish for diplomacy. Individual learning programs are tailored to the needs of individual clients. Private and small-group classes available on a variety of levels for competitive prices. Professional, friendly and dedicated instructors. They even offer a free trial lesson for beginners.

Info: www.linguapolonica.com.pl. Email: linguapolonica@linguapolonica.com.pl.

Modern.edu School of Language Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19 lok.21, tel. 22 881 85 14, biuro@ modern.edu.pl, www.modern.edu.pl. A wide range of Polish classes and customized courses at attractive prices - either in small groups or private classes.

COMMUNITY American Friends in Warsaw AFW offers a variety of social activities, family events and ‘hands-on’ outreach programs supporting vital needs in our host country.

For more information: info@afw.waw.pl.

Frogs & Co. Warsaw’s expatriate men’s rugby team, trains Saturdays from 12:00 at Skra Stadium, ul. Wawelska 5. For more information: Christian, mob. 502 198 782.

EXCLUSIVE DAY SPA IN THE HEART OF WARSAW OFFERING A WIDE RANGE OF BEAUTY AND BODY THERAPIES INCLUDING MASSAGE THERAPY, FACIAL, MANICURE, PEDICURE FOR WOMEN AND MEN CENTRUM LIM (Behind the MARRIOTT Hotel) level -1, shop 20 (In the direction of the Central Station) tel. +48/22/630 64 70 mobile 883 529 791 www.oasisbeautydayspa.pl OPENING HOURS: Monday to Friday 8.30-20.30 Saturday 9.00-17.00 Sunday for special order

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STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

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Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2

imprezy firmowe oprawa muzyczna

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ZOUKIZOMBA PRODUCTION

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Over 750 students enrolled Over 50 different nationalities Outstanding IB and I/GCSE results Superb facilities in the heart of Warsaw High quality teaching provided by committed British, International and local staff A complete education from 2,5-18 years Following the English National Curriculum Wide range of extracurricular activities

Tel: +48 22 702 10 72

l. Limanowskiego 15 u 02-943 Warszawa T: +48 22 843 81 31 F: +48 22 842 81 65 E: admissions@thebritishschool.pl W: www.thebritishschool.pl

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11-08-24 08:35

Stadion Narodowy

Żaryna Żaryna

Kulskiego Kulskiego

ChoCdhkod łyiaKłyam kieicwzaic BiaB iew Kaiem za ńień

WHY WARSAW? ber the old system and the old way of doing things. But economically the country has avoided recession for twenty years, and it’s known as a low-risk market.

THE BPCC is celebrating its 20th year in Poland, and so too are you. What was Day 1 out here like?

A shock. It was a cold, grey November and I really thought, “what have I done?” I was in the Forum Hotel and I remember this weird quilt contraption with an oval hole containing the blanket stuffed inside; a hotel bar where “the ladies” outnumbered normal customers; and the hotel restaurant where the waiter asked me if I wanted to buy a car radio before the meal even arrived.

And work?

I was with a pharmaceutical company at the time and on the first day I was cast as villain; I had to sack a sales rep who I caught fiddling expenses – from zł. 10,000 to zł.

100,000. It was easy to follow his trail, he’d just added a zero using a different colored pen!

Twenty years is a long time, even by ex-pat standards.

What keeps you here?

Family, friends... Whenever I come back from any trip I know I’ve returned home. And I’m proud to call it home.

I love watching this country developing into something better all the time, and I love that I’m living in a country which is, to all intents, the cradle of modern history – from Solidarity to the war. It’s fascinating.

First arriving to these shores twenty years back, Joe Tunney is on the board of the British Polish Chamber of Commerce. The Insider catches up with him to talk about his time out here.

So Joe, what does a chamber of commerce do anyway?

We’re a membership organization whose mission is to foster and support bilateral investment between Poland and Britain. We liaise with ministers, connect people and get them talking. We’ve all sorts of members, and it’s not just limited to big industry players. For example, the Wieliczka Salt Mine by Kraków is a member: 70% of their tourist traffic is British.

What problems are there with conducting business here?

People are frightened off by things like red tape. Many areas have seen dramatic changes, but some haven’t, like public office.

It sounds bullish, but I feel some departments suffer from a generational problem and need to employ younger people who don’t remem-

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WARSAW INSIDER | SEPTEMBER 2012

Tell us about the restaurants?

In all my time I’ve never had a bad meal in Casa Mia, and of course Bacio is a must. But in general there’s such a burgeoning social scene. When I arrived there really wasn’t a concept of restaurants. I remember a place in Old Town, Świętoszek, whose big boast was Robert De Niro had eaten there. Well, I’m not surprised he ate there, there was literally nowhere else.

Do you have a favorite street out here?

I love Karowa - the little helter skelter street behind the Bristol Hotel; you don’t expect that. Poznańska has developed brilliantly with its café and bar scene, and I love shooting down the Wisłostrada highway: at times, what with the forest either side, it feels like you’re deep inside the country. For sheer change, then Jerozolimskie represents Poland’s progress; not long back the far part of it was just fields.

For more info on the BPCC and their mission in Poland check: www.bpcc.org.pl

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

BRITS ABROAD

You have to entertain visitors all the time – where do you take them?

It looks a bit Hollywood, although the Old Town is a must, so too is listening to Chopin in Łazienki. There are also so many important reminders of what has happened historically: the former Ghetto area, etc. But, I’m ashamed to say, I’ve yet to visit the Uprising Museum – the queues are outrageous. Instead, I prefer to take people to real, living places.

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