Escape Magazine Issue 21

I'M FREE

TAKE ME HOME

21

50 CELEBRATING

1965 – 2015

YEARS OF COOK ISLANDS INDEPENDENCE

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CONTENTS Issue 21 April 2015

50

Up front

Tour of the Cook Islands

6

Introduction

11

An introduction to the Cook Islands

8

Contributors to this issue

24

Rarotonga

90

Aitutaki

104

Atiu

108

Southern & Northern Group Islands

Features 42 Fifty Years Young This year the Cook Islands celebrates not just independence but self-governance – the end of its life as a colony and the birth of today’s political system.

50 Gateway to the World The opening of the international airport in 1974 marked the dawn of a new era in Cook Islands history.

54 Celebrating Cook Islands Nationhood Each year our independence is commemorated with the Te Maeva Nui Festival, a week of cultural performances, sporting events, trade and food shows on Rarotonga.

64 Manihiki’s Black Gold Rachel Reeves experiences life on a Pearl Farm in Manihiki and brings us an in-depth look at how our precious black pearls are cultivated.

72 Raui in the 21st Century A raui is a ban on access to an area or resource for a set period of time. Discover how this ancient method of conservation is spreading throughout our islands.

77 Relax, Retreat, Revitalise Stand-up paddleboards, or SUPs, are still a fairly new sight on Rarotonga and Aitutaki. Jess Cramp tells how this sport and Yoga are becoming the new craze.

84 Making Time for Turtles We visit the beautiful island of Palmerston with a dedicated group of Marine Biologists to research the island’s turtle population.

96 TEAL’s Coral Route Stopover Relive the days of the 50’s when TEAL’s Solent flyingboats offered a touch of daring, swashbuckling allure.

106 A Two Islands Adventure We visit both Aitutaki and Atiu over five days, on what Air Rarotonga describe as their Two Island Adventure.

4 • ESCAPE

54

Regulars 12 Art Scene Reflecting on some of the key highlights and events on the Cook Islands art scene over the last 50 years.

16 Book Worms A review of topical authors and their books.

18 Raro Rhythm 2015 is a year to celebrate our journey in music and performance.

20

What’s in Store?

Taking a look in shop windows.

28

Island Cuisine We visit local restaurants and share their best recipes.

40 Village Life

Memories of life growing up in an island village brought

to us by well known artist and story-teller Joan Gragg.

112

Great Places to Stay A guide to some of Rarotonga’s best accommodation.

116 ‘The Bond’ Entertainment Guide

The inside story on the best clubs, island shows and nightlife.

120

What’s On? A calendar of events and holidays.

Front Cover: Members of the Mauke Dance Team performing at Te Maeva Nui Festival. Photo: Noel Bartley

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EDITOR'S Note Kia Orana!

publisher South Pacific Publishing Limited, Rarotonga editor Noel Bartley design Christina Thiele | Ultimo Group Auckland, New Zealand printed in Korea Tara TPS Ltd Seoul, Korea advertising director Noel Bartley regular contributors Rachel Reeves Glenda Tuaine Joan Gragg Alan Syme Florence Syme-Buchanan advertising sales rarotonga Noel Bartley Phone: (682) 23449 or 54449 Email: advertise@escape.co.ck advertising sales new zealand Phone: 09 419 6416 Email: scenix@ihug.co.nz distribution rarotonga Luana Scowcroft Phone: (682) 74875 distribution aitutaki Annie Bishop Phone: (682) 31009 Email: bishopcruz@aitutaki.net.ck Escape is published bi-annually by South Pacific Publishing Limited P.O. Box 3010, Rarotonga, Cook Islands Email: advertise@escape.co.ck All contents of ESCAPE magazine are copyright of South Pacific Publishing Limited. Any reproduction of any part of this magazine without prior written permission is strictly prohibited.

6 • ESCAPE

Celebrating the 50th anniversary of Cook Islands independence on August 4th is the big event of 2015.

Celebrating not just independence, but the end of Cook Islands life as a colony and the start of self-governance and todays political system. And as we party many of us will, no doubt, pause to reflect on the events of the past 50 years and perhaps even to consider what has been achieved during that time.

Turning to page 42 of this issue you’ll find our 50th anniversary story written by Rachel Reeves, where you can read about what is perhaps the essence of this year’s celebration… “to look with hope into the country’s future and to recognize with pride that 50 years after becoming a nation the Cook Islands is standing on its own two feet.”

Within these pages you will find a diverse selection of stories, some of which relate to our 50th anniversary, such as the story about the opening of the Cook Islands International Airport in 1974 (page 50), which triggered the growth of tourism – now our country’s number one income earner.

On page 54 Florence Syme-Buchanan brings us an insight into Te Maeva Nui. This week of festivities held in Rarotonga is the highlight event of the year, as many dance teams, some from our distant islands, gather to compete and celebrate nationhood. Performances on stage are truly outstanding, almost overwhelming, and a unique expression of Cook Islands culture. If you are in Rarotonga during the last week of July and first week of August, do not miss the opportunity to see these dance performances; they are unlike any you have witnessed before. And given that this is the 50th year of celebrations, they are likely to be even more spectacular than in the past.

Small island aficionados will find plenty to interest them with our stories about the Turtle Research on Palmerston Island, and the harvesting of Black Pearls in the beautiful lagoon of Manihiki, one of our northernmost atolls. Those stories, plus others in this issue, together with our regular columns are guaranteed to provide you with plenty of good reading whatever your interest.

Don’t forget! You can view past issues of our magazine on-line at www.escapemagazine.travel Ka Kite!

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CONTRIBUTORS Rachel Reeves Born and raised in California, Rachel Michele Teana Reeves has Atiu roots on her father’s side. She moved to Rarotonga three years ago to get to know her Cook Islands heritage, and fell in love with the island and island life.

This young and vibrant 23-year-old has a passion for writing and has also worked for Cook Islands News. Upon graduating from university, she taught English in Vietnam, Thailand and Nepal.

Rachel enjoys being active – running, swimming, oe vaka, windsurfing, snowboarding – and reading. She is grateful to the people of the Cook Islands, who have welcomed her with warmth and the spirit of aloha.

Jess Cramp Jess is an American scientist, surfer, diver and writer who arrived in Rarotonga via Tahiti, after being convinced by a group of Cook Islands voyagers that their country was the best in the Pacific. She spent the past two years as volunteer Programme Manager for Rarotonga-based Pacific Islands Conservation Initiative, helping to establish the shark sanctuary and falling in love with the people, landscapes and culture of the Cook Islands. She is an energetic marine conservationist who continues to research, educate and advocate for sharks, both throughout the Pacific and back in the US. When not working, Jess can be found at reef passes, either surfing or exploring underwater.

Florence Syme-Buchanan Cook Islands freelance journalist Florence Syme-Buchanan has been writing about her country for many years, as correspondent for various international news agencies and publications. She now lives in Auckland with her partner Tanara Buchanan and children Te Manava and Fe'ena, but is planning to return to her home in the Cook Islands this year.

Also Jason Brown, Mahiriki Tangaroa, Glenda Tuaine, Joan Gragg, Tina Weier, Katrina Bartley, Ewan Smith, Matariki Wilson – Cook Islands News, Julian Zeman, and Noel Bartley.

Special thanks To the Cook Islands Library and Museum Society, Howard Henry and Ewan Smith for the delightful historic photographs which helped us illustrate the 50th Anniversary stories.

8 • ESCAPE

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The Cook Islands

15 tiny islands in paradise, that a small nation calls home.

London Berlin Vancouver Rome Beijing

Seoul Tokyo Los Angeles Hong Kong Honalulu

Northern Group

Capetown

Perth

Sydney

Cook Islands Auckland

Southern Group

W

here would someone say, “may you live long,” upon meeting you for the first time, but in the Cook Islands.

The Cook Islands greeting Kia Orana, means exactly that, “may you live long.” It is a unique first gesture of friendship from a special Polynesian people, renown for their hospitality and warmth.

It is as if God chose his 15 most precious gems, and then sprinkled them over 2.25 million sq km of the Pacific to become the Cook Islands – an ei (necklace) of islands awaiting to embrace all visitors.

All the islands combined make up a land area of just 240 sq km. Each of the ‘gems’ is unlike the other and all have their own special features. From the majestic peaks of Rarotonga to the low-lying untouched coral atolls of the northern islands of Manihiki, Penrhyn, Rakahanga, Pukapuka, Nassau and Suwarrow.

The latter, inhabited only by a caretaker and his family, is a popular anchorage for yachts from all over the world.

The Southern Cooks is made up of the capital Rarotonga, Aitutaki, Atiu, Mangaia, Mauke, Mitiaro, Manuae, Palmerston and Takutea.

Takutea is an uninhabited bird sanctuary and managed by the Atiu Island Council. Manuae is the remaining uninhabited island.

Cook Islanders have their own Maori language and each of the populated islands a distinct dialect. It has a population of around

13,000. The Cooks has been self-governing in free association with New Zealand since 1965. By virtue of that unique relationship, all Cook Islanders hold New Zealand passports. The country is governed by 25-member Parliament elected by universal suffrage. The Cook Islands Parliamentary system is modelled on the Westminster system of Britain. The Queens Representative is Head of State. A House of Ariki (traditional paramount chiefs) counsels and advises government, as does the Koutu Nui, a body of traditional chiefs.

This is a delightful Pacific country where the ‘metropolis’ of Rarotonga offers a wide range of activities, accommodation and cuisine and visitors can choose to be as busy as they wish. A short inter-island flight away are the less developed southern group islands each offering something different.

Travelling to the isolated northern islands by inter-island flight or boat, one savours a South Pacific rarely seen by outsiders. Due to distance and infrequency of transport there are fewer visitors to the northern group islands.

But wherever you turn you see bright tropical colours and movement, whether it is the sway of palms and sea in the trade winds, or dancers entertaining at one of the many nightspots found on Rarotonga and Aitutaki. While you may nearly always hear the ocean, you will always feel the warmth of the people and their tropical paradise. The Cook Islands truly is a slice of heaven.

ESCAPE • 11

art scene

50 Surveying

YEARS story: Mahiriki Tangaroa

of Cook Islands Art In celebration of 50 years of Cook Islands selfgovernment this article reflects on some of the key highlights and events on the Cook Islands art scene spanning over the last 50 years.

Edwin Shorter

12 • ESCAPE

Englishman Edwin Shorter, both found their way to the shores of the Cook Islands. Both artists were the first commercial artists to stay on Rarotonga and to make their living from painting. The stereotypical exotic and sensual beauty of these islands and their peoples Pomani Tangata captured the imagination of both Welland and Shorter.

Viewed retrospectively, these t is a common enquiry as to what works previewed the eventual rise of defines the old from the new, the Western art practice in the Cook Islands. historic to the modern and traditional to the contemporary. Movements would Just over two decades later, in the occur sporadically over life’s timeline, mid-1980s, the first local arts collective distinguishing one period to the other. In established itself as the ‘Akatikitiki surveying the artistic developments that Association on the island of Rarotonga. have occurred within the last 50 years it The group comprised of artists Michael is quite apparent that progressive change Tavioni, Nga Teariki, Rennie Peyroux, Eruera originated from the synthesis between ‘Ted’ Nia, Joan Rolls (now Gragg) and Wilkie Cook Islands and Western culture.

Rasmussen. The collective successfully

I

An important starting point, (and of special significance in the year of selfgovernment), was the qualification of the first trained Cook Islands visual artist: Pomani Tangata (1941-2014). From the island of Atiu, Pomani graduated with a Bachelors of Fine Arts from Elam School of Fine Arts in 1965 and a Masters of Fine Arts from Hawai‘i in 1967.

During his art school years up to 1967 he was a highly prolific artist, producing some stunning abstract works that one would not immediately identify as “Cook Islands”. It was in 1968 that he returned to Rarotonga, however not to pursue his career in the arts, but to stand for the island of Atiu in the government’s second general election. It was in 1971 that he joined the Democratic Party and in the third general election he became a Member of Parliament for Atiu.

His work was celebrated in 2012, in the major Auckland City Art Gallery exhibition entitled “Home AKL” During this same decade, in 1962 American artist Rick Welland, and a year later

encouraged and promoted Cook Islands visual arts, and at this point in time the local community was formally introduced to the concept of the ‘art exhibition.’ The majority of this core group of artists have continued their practice and are today regarded as our senior art practitioners.

Following this vibrant surge in art initiatives, it was in 1987 that leading Cook Islands artist Tim Manavaroa Buchanan returned to Rarotonga. Being self-taught, Buchanan introduced to the local art scene captivating portrait paintings reminiscent of post-impressionist painter Paul Gauguin.

Over two and a half decades later his works have embodied poignant political, cultural and social statements. His period of capturing the buoyant lifestyle inherent to communal gatherings has become his much celebrated trademark.

A turning point for Cook Islands contemporary art was the travelling exhibition Paringa ‘Ou (Something Old, Something New), hosted at the Cook Islands National Museum in 1998.

Showcasing the work of New Zealand resident artists of Cook Islands origin, the works presented were a variety of diverse

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ESCAPE • 13

their work at galleries throughout New Zealand.

media and visual representations, many of which expressed and explored the topical subject of “cultural identity”.

Curated by Cook Islands artist, Ian George this exhibition looked beyond waving palm trees and sandy beaches, challenging audiences and artists to re-think what they perceived to be “art”. This landmark exhibition paved the way for a forthcoming group of emerging artists who looked to traditional Cook Islands motifs, legends and concepts as the key inspiration of their work.

Over the coming years, with the support of local and international sponsorship, a new collective style began to transpire.

Armed with confidence, a group of local artists began to create work that drew on the imagery, genealogy and stories their ancestral heritage.

In 2003, the first major exhibition of contemporary Cook Islands art was held internationally. Te Ata Ou, which translates as light from the darkness, travelled to Christchurch New Zealand, coinciding with the VII Pacific Arts Association International Symposium. Coming nearly 100 years after a Mangaian delegation had visited Christchurch (1905), this exhibition was not only a ground-breaking postcolonial initiative, but also a testimony that celebrated confidence and maturity achieved in the local contemporary art sector. Sponsored by Beachcomber Contemporary Art Gallery, several Te Ata Ou exhibitors secured representation of

14 • ESCAPE

On a regional level, the Cook Islands has made exceptional progress in the growth and exhibition of contemporary art. Recent exposure through Australia Art Mahiriki Tangaroa Monthly, the New Zealand magazines ArtNews and Spasifik, and exhibitions, has proven the viability, scope, and potential of cultural and creative activity. The local art community has been fortunate to secure private patronage and sponsorship, which has subsequently engendered international partnerships.

In 2010, the Manuia Exhibition was held at the American Indian Community House, New York City. Supported by the Cook Islands Ministry of Foreign Affairs, New Zealand Embassy in New York City, and Beachcomber Contemporary Art Gallery, Ben Bergman and Mahiriki Tangaroa travelled to New York to conduct market research and investigate the prospect of showcasing a Cook Islands exhibition.

At the invitation of the American Indian Community House, six artists’ works were displayed for two months. Art forms included painting, digital prints on PVC, photographic prints, sculpture, and video installation.

To conclude; within half a century of inspiring dynamic work, the Cook Islands received honorary

Over the coming years, with the support of local and international sponsorship, a new collective style began to transpire. attention at the major exhibition “Atua - Sacred Gods of Polynesia” which was hosted at the National Gallery of Australia in 2014. Among an exhibition of premissionary traditional art objects, the one and only inclusion of contemporary art was by local artist Eruera Nia. His two sculptures, “Akamata” and “Taputu” were key centre-pieces of this exhibition.

The contemporary Cook Islands art scene today may be viewed as comprising mostly of Cook Islands “returnees”; namely Eruera Nia, Ian George, Tim Manavaroa Buchanan, Loretta Reynolds and Mahiriki Tangaroa who have brought to the fore their ancestral heritage, inspiring an audience with the traditions and concepts that once governed the people of the Cook Islands.

This article wishes to acknowledge and thank local patronage for the support and development of the local arts community.

Tim Manavaroa Buchanan

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book worms

of a man’s character, and that he liked the shape of Darwin’s. This led some historians to speculate about how many years the theory of evolution would have remained unformulated had the nose not appealed.”

How many know that while living in Atuona, Paul Gaugin produced a subversive broadsheet entitled ‘Le Sourire’ (The Smile) and illustrated it with his engravings. Lay writes that Gaugin also “…encouraged the Marquesans to withdraw their children from French-run boarding schools and to refuse to pay taxes.”

In Search of Paradise Graham Lay The lives and times of 22 chroniclers, artists and writers in colonial South Pacific are beautifully presented in New Zealand author Graham Lay’s ‘In Search of Paradise’. Entertaining, informative and often humorous, Lay brings to life the adventurous spirit of these characters who ventured to the South Pacific looking for that perfect new place that would inspire their work.

Interestingly, Lay has also chosen to write about some characters who are often associated with the Pacific, but whose backgrounds are never really explained in historical journals. For instance, botanical artist Sydney Parkinson, the young Quaker who accompanied Captain James Cook, who “drew, painted and made detailed observations of local customs in his journal”.

There are many humorous personal observations Lay makes which are priceless, such as the chapter on Charles Darwin and how he came to be chosen

by Captain Robert Fitzroy to accompany HMS Beagle. “…Fitzroy was a follower of the theory that the nose was an indicator

16 • ESCAPE

rudder. Using patterns in the sea and the sky as map and compass, they navigated to Rakahanga, a tiny island more than 40 kilometres away.

In 2014, the board of the Cyclone Martin Charitable Trust, a not-for-profit organisation comprised of Manihiki people and Martin survivors, teamed up with Cook Islands News and its publisher to commission a book about Cyclone Martin.

Containing 246 superb illustrations, ‘In Search of Paradise’ gives brief, yet insightful accounts of the lives of the 22 characters. At the end of each chapter, Lay’s easy flowing style leaves the reader wanting to know even more about each chronicler, artist or writer. • Available from Bounty Bookshop, Rarotonga

Matini Rachel Michele Teana Reeves On a Saturday evening 18 years ago, waves tall as the coconut trees broke over Manihiki, a sea-level coral atoll in the northernmost reaches of the Cook Islands.

Cyclone Martin stole 19 people from a population of fewer than 700, and would become the most tragic natural disaster in the oceanic nation’s recorded history.

Locals survived by tying their bodies and boats to coconut trees or taking shelter in homes with high foundations. Four people, including an eight-year-old girl, drifted in an aluminium boat for three nights and two days, using a sleeping bag for a sail and a plank of timber as a

Journalist Rachel Reeves, whose paternal heritage derives from the island of Atiu, interviewed survivors in New Zealand and the Cook Islands and wove their stories into an illustrated book called Matini.

The 185-page book, expected to arrive in the Cook Islands mid-2015, is a harrowing account of what happened to Manihiki that night. It is a story of great pain, but also of incredible courage and strength. It is a story that will make you cry, renew your faith in humanity, inspire in you a great respect for the island people, and remind you to count your blessings.

Matini is also a roadmap for emergency responders. It points out where the Cook Islands government went wrong and catalogues the consequences of its failures. Today, as the world contends

ed and worke d rapher and e South Pacifi c Solomon onga, Samo a, ealand.

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the photograph y which has enticed ng the past two decades has been many visits to these island s. ng background quickly helpe d him of photograph ic books, calen dars, before he becam e enchanted with ic. During the past 20 years he has axed pursu it of photograph y, in a his many island friends. r most of the year, Noel’s main itor of award winning Escap e he chairman of BULA Fiji as “the e South Pacifi c”. ok Islands and A Journ ey through

To order a copy of Matini, contact the author at rmtreeves@gmail.com or the publisher at john@cookislandsnews.com, or drop by the Cook Islands News office in Avarua.

raroto ng

ook Islands in nal brochures

with a changing climate and scientists predict that the intensity of cyclones will increase, it is vital that disaster managers, and indeed all of us, pay attention to the lessons Matini teaches.

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Rarotonga & Aitutaki Noel Bartley One of the largest and perhaps the most comprehensive collections of Cook Islands photography has been built up over two decades by publisher and photographer Noel Bartley.

Noel, who also publishes award winning Escape Magazine, produced these pictorial books, one entitled Rarotonga, the other Aitutaki, using some of the stunning images from his vast collection.

culture, and island life. Escape Magazine’s main contributing writer Florence SymeBuchanan provides an informative introduction to each book.

These books rank amongst the best now available in terms of photographic quality.

Retailing at around $39.90 they would also be the best in terms of value for money and certainly make wonderful souvenirs of the islands.

Both titles are on sale at most retailers including CITC, Bounty Bookshop, Island Craft, Treasure Chest stores, Island Style, Beachcomber, Perfumes of Rarotonga and at some resorts.

Please support the advertisers in this magazine… they make it possible for you to read this for free.

Beautiful photographs leap out from every one of the 100 pages of each book, providing wonderful imagery of both Rarotonga and Aitutaki. Noel has captured well the country’s two most popular visitor destinations, the people,

ESCAPE • 17

raro rhythm

Celebrate Cook Islands!

Tarekareka! story: Glenda Tuaine

Left: Opera in Rarotonga stars Elisha Fai Hulton and Ridge Ponini

2

015 for all Cook Islanders is a time to reflect over the past 50 years as a self governing nation.

Not only do we reflect on what independence means to us this year but it is an opportunity to celebrate our community and what defines us.

2015 is a year to celebrate our journey in music and performance. From the traditional experience of our cultural performances to the contemporary music scene, we have a healthy and growing entertainment industry that can now be viewed regularly on Youtube, heard on overseas radio stations, and that has artists touring to New Zealand, Australia, Tahiti, and Europe.

The music industry in the Cook Islands is a richly woven tivaevae of artists who over the years have created a great mixture of styles and genres. From island music to hip hop, traditional drum beats to soul and reggae - Cook Islands music is a rising star. From our pioneers of music such as Pepe and the Rarotongans, Will Crummer, Jon Jonassen and of course Jake Numanga who greets and farewells our visitors; to contemporary musicians such as our leading lady Annie Crummer and our local stars the Short children (so worth seeing if you can), Katu Teiti and his Boys, Island Groove, Kahiki, Cre and Mii, Jaik Berg, soulful duo Trigger Fish comprising of Kura Happ and Mo Newport, who in 2014 knocked Stan Walker of the charts in Tahiti, and rising opera star Ridge Ponini to list just a few; Cook Islands music is on the world stage.

Our local scene is set for 2015 to be a great year, with an annual events programme that includes concerts with local and Pacific stars. Some events 18 • ESCAPE

to look out for are the Beach Day Out, Opera in Rarotonga and Arias in Aitutaki, as well as the Cook Islands Te Maeva Nui Celebrations.

On Easter Monday the popular “BEACH DAY OUT” will be held on Nikao beach, a family day with local musicians performing, local food on sale and children’s activities. Queen’s Birthday weekend brings the Opera event “Opera in Rarotonga” which is now in its sixth year and will showcase three of the Pacific’s rising Opera stars, tenor Kalauni Pouvalu,

baritone Benson Wilson and soprano Madison Nonoa Horsefield. They will also perform in Aitutaki at “Arias in Aitutaki” for one night only.

July brings Te Maeva Nui and the showstopper event of the year, where all our cultural dancers and performers meet for one week, celebrating our nation and the richness of our traditions, music and culture. Held at the National Auditorium over 5 days, the event brings all Cook Islanders together and is truly an event not to be missed.

Not on a musical note, but worthy of a mention, is the carving event which will be held for one week in June. It is supported by the New Zealand High Commission and

celebrates the 50 years of partnership between the Cook Islands and New Zealand. Six carvers and two weavers will work along-side Cook Island carvers and weavers in an ‘open to the public’ event that presents these visually engaging and story-telling artforms.

So whatever your plans, the Cook Islands is holding a year of great celebrations and we invite you to come and enjoy all of that with us.

For information on these events and more visit www.CI50th.com, www.motone.biz, www.facebook.com/motoneproductions , www.cookislands.travel

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Rito skincare contains effective active ingredients, selected and sourced from Oceania, for their proven benefits to your skin. Available from Rito Cook Islands in Tikioki and the Punanga Nui Market, Muri Beach Club Hotel & Spa and CITC Pharmacy.

What’s the buzz? From the newly released ‘Nature’ range, by Bergman & Sons comes this 18ct Gold “Buzzy Bee Brooch” featuring a stunning 17mm Black Pearl, Sapphires & Diamonds.

Bergman & Sons are at Cooks Corner in Avarua.

This Mangaian Ceremonial Adze, made by Allan Tuara of Mangaia has taken many painstaking hours of intricate and loving work.

Elaborately carved adzes, which are a rare and beautiful souvenir of the Cook Islands are sometimes available from the Moana Gems shop in uptown Avarua.

Strong colours and natures patterns mimic the vibrancy of our islands of Paradise in these fashion garments from Mareko. You’ll find them in the main shopping area downtown. Their very helpful staff can help you choose just the right unique garment for you.

The Escape Magazine 2016 Calendar features the very best of Cook Islands images captured by our photographers during the past year. Each calendar is individually shrinkwrapped and has a stiffening board plus envelope for ease of mailing. From most stores and souvenir outlets on Rarotonga and Aitutaki. $15.90

Cook Islands Calendar 2016

20 • ESCAPE

Scentchips is a unique idea that allows you to create your very own fragrance in safe soy-based waxes. Choose from 72 fragrances from a blending table and mix to their recipes or create your own unique blend. Visit the Goodlife Store in the Banana Court and have fun.

Beware when buying black pearls… When shopping for Cook Islands black pearls, always ask the sales assistant if the pearls are genuine Cook Islands pearls. Ensure that you are given a certificate of authenticity (with the name of the retail outlet you purchased from) guaranteeing exactly what you have been told you are buying. Be advised that there are other pearls on the market that look like authentic Cook Islands black pearls, but are not.

Professional Floral Service

Look for Ade’s Threads when you visit Aitutaki. Her shop is close to the entrance to Pacific Resort. Ade makes a great, colourful range of hats, bags and clothing for all ages.

Serving you for 72 years and proud to be part of our nations history

ESCAPE • 21

RAROTONGA a smorgasbord of South Pacific fun

There are few places in the world that equal this special emerald island in the Pacific - the largest of the Cook Islands.

A place where a visit is certain to capture the heart. And upon reluctant departure, will generously add to a lifetime of good memories.

22 • ESCAPE

From these cloud mountains, the early Polynesian settlers believed Rongo, the goddess of the land lived and watched over them as they fished, planted and lived a simple, but rich life.

Rarotonga is lush and carpeted with plantations that yield year-round fruits and vegetables. The largest of the 15 Cook Islands, it is 32 km around its main coastal road. An inland road and various tracks will further reveal a palette of dazzling tropical colours equaled by few other places.

Like other islands in the group, Rarotonga’s white beaches with sand as fine as powder stretch into clear blue lagoons around the island. Lagoons where children safely play are food cupboards for the local people, who live an unhurried lifestyle in a unique, unspoiled place in the Pacific.

Traditional Voyaging From these cloud mountains, the early Polynesian settlers believed Rongo, the goddess of the land lived and watched over them as they fished, planted and lived a simple, but rich life.

T

his is Rarotonga, named Tumutevarovaro by the first Polynesian settlers over a thousand years ago, who composed chants and songs in praise of her natural splendor.

Those ancient Maori people who navigated the Pacific in their ocean voyaging doublehulled canoes would have relished her fertile abundance and delighted in her safe anchorages and plentiful water.

The beauty of Rarotonga is still awesome.

Especially when viewed from the air on an Air Rarotonga aircraft. Or, from beyond the reef aboard one of several deep sea fishing boats available for charter, where you can behold the mountains rising majestically from the centre of the island, piercing blue skies and passing clouds.

There’s also a breathtaking view of Rarotonga from the ‘Needle” if you take the “cross island” walk which starts from Avatiu Valley. From this point you can see the necklace of white surf that forever pounds the reef enclosing this volcanic island. The cross-island walk is best done with a guide and does require some effort, so being of average fitness will help as will sturdy footwear. Guided sightseeing walks and learning about the island’s flora and fauna can be booked through your hotel or travel agent. Less strenuous than going across the island is the informative scenic walk offered by guides of the Takitumu Conservation Area (TCA). Covering 380 acres, the TCA is home to the indigenous Kakerori, (Rarotongan Flycatcher). Once on the critically endangered list, this tiny bird is now thriving well, thanks to the efforts of environmentalists and the TCA group to save the bird from extinction.

According to ancient mythology, Rarotonga was settled over a thousand years ago by Polynesians from an ancient land called Avaiki. They travelled in massive double-hulled ocean voyaging canoes, crisscrossing Te Moana Nui O Kiva (Pacific Ocean) in search of fertile, sheltered land. That traditional voyaging, navigating by the stars, has been revived in the Cook Islands and two traditional ocean going vaka built in the early 1990’s

ESCAPE • 23

n o i t c e l l o C a c fi Paci

by Brighouse

Polynesian motifs and designs from a life long ago are used to portray an image of romance and simplicity. Through the TSAVO brand, Brighouse has captured the essence of South Pacific culture and the allure of its islands.

Sole Cook Islands Stockist: MOANA GEMS Located Uptown Avarua | Ph: (682) 22312 Email: tsavojewellery@gmail.com | www.moanagems.co.ck

…craftsmen of contemporary elegance

LOOKING FOR THAT IDEAL SOUVENIR TO TAKE HOME? Pop in and browse through our extensive range. We specialise in locally made and Pacific made products and we are well known for our island souvenirs, wooden crafts, arts, island jewellery and apparel.

Look for the brightly decorated store opposite Avatiu Harbour.

Ph. 20942 24 • ESCAPE

have notched up thousands of nautical miles, travelling as far as Hawaii, New Caledonia and New Zealand. The vaka, Te Au O Tonga and Takitumu can be viewed at Vaka Village in Avana, Ngatangiia.

Avana channel is also the site where seven canoes Takitumu, Kurahaupo, Tokomaru, Aotea, Tainui, Mataatua and Te Arawa, departed Rarotonga for New Zealand over 700 years ago. A circle of stones and plaques bearing the name of each canoe commemorates that great voyage.

Shopping The capital of Rarotonga is Avarua and many shops offer a wide selection of goods and souvenirs. Possibly the best souvenir of the Cook Islands is a black pearl from the northern islands of Manihiki or Penrhyn. The Cook Islands is the second biggest producer of black pearls in the world.

Punanga Nui Marketplace on Saturday mornings is busy and colourful – stalls and small huts selling souvenirs, food and clothing. The market is the best place to buy a pareu (sarong) and handmade pearl shell jewellery, or to try some of the local delicacies. It is a lively meeting place for hundreds of locals each Saturday morning.

There’s often a live show by dance teams, or a local string band.

Water Sports With clear blue lagoons and a huge ocean at its doorstep, there is a good range of water sports to suit all ages. You can choose from skimming the lagoon on a windsurfer, kayaking, lagoon boat trips, scuba diving, deep-sea fishing, reef watching in a glass bottom ‘submarine’, or just swimming, snorkelling and sunbathing.

One of the best spots to snorkel is in Tikioki opposite the Fruits of Rarotonga Café where Mama Puretu makes delicious smoothies from local fresh fruit. A raui,

environment – take nothing but memories and leave nothing but bubbles.

Because Rarotonga is surrounded by clear waters, the visibility when scuba diving is excellent. All dive operators offer lessons for beginners in the safety of the lagoon before venturing out over the reef. Both Koka Lagoon Cruises and Captain Tama’s Lagoon Cruizes operate from Muri Lagoon, next to Rarotonga Sailing Club, offering visitors lagoon tours in glass bottom boats with loads of fun exploring the lagoon plus swimming, snorkeling, sunbathing and a barbeque lunch. Outrigger canoeing teams train on Muri lagoon and at Avarua wharf.

Watching the teams powering through the water in their six-man or single outrigger canoes is stirring. The annual canoeing festival, Te Vaka Eiva, is held every November with teams from all over the Pacific travelling to Rarotonga to race.

Sports

(a traditional ban on fishing and the gathering of seafood) protects the Tikioki lagoon, so it teems with fish and other marine life. Raui are also in place on other parts of Rarotonga’s lagoon coastline and these areas generally offer the best snorkelling. Look for the Raui signs around the island, but please protect our marine

Cook Islanders love their sports, with rugby and netball the top favourites. More often than not, a local will play several different sports during the year and be good at all of them. Saturday sees keen inter-village rugby, netball, cricket, tennis, soccer and rugby league games, depending on the season. Spectators are welcome, as is participation in after-match socials at village clubhouses.

Entry fee and drinks are cheap, the atmosphere is always lively, especially if teams are putting on a small show with lots of humour.

The Rarotonga Bowling Club in town has matches most Saturdays and a bar to relax in after games.

The Rarotonga Golf Club welcomes visitors to its 9-hole course at Black Rock and offers clubs and trundlers for hire.

Nightlife There’s always lots to do in the evenings.

Island nights staged by local hotels feature buffets of local food cooked in an umu or earth oven. Entertainment is provided by one of the islands’ professional dance groups and you are guaranteed a vibrant, sensual show and drumming that’s recognised as the best in the world - see our Entertainment Guide for more information. Guided night tours by bus to well-known establishments like the Banana Court, Trader Jacks and Whatever! Bar after the island show is also fun and there’s also the comfort of knowing one doesn’t have to drive home after several bar stops.

Rarotonga has numerous excellent restaurants that serve tempting food from around the world. One could eat out every night of the week and still not experience all the great food that’s available. The Tamarind House Restaurant in Pue (just out of Avarua) is a beautifully converted colonial house that once belonged to the Union Steamship Company. Situated close to the beach, the Tamarind looks over the ocean and meals can be taken in the garden under the stars. See our cuisine section for the pick of Rarotonga restaurants.

ESCAPE • 25

Perfumes of Rarotonga The home of unique island gifts and scents.

Visit our gift store at Cooks Corner, or Factory on the Main road in Panama. Phone 24238 www.perfumes.co.ck

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Takeaway meals also are available from outlets all around the island and excellent fish n’ chips are served up by the Flying Boat Grill located at the Cook Islands Game Fishing Club. Visitors are always welcome to join the locals at the club for a drink or a meal. The location of Aramoana Takeaways at Avatiu Wharf ensures that their fish is always freshly caught by local fishermen.

Rarotonga has a three-cinema complex with air conditioning, a big screen and surround-sound in Cinema 3. A good selection of recent movies is shown. For those wanting a quiet night in, there are several local video and DVD outlets, all with a comprehensive selection of classics and latest releases. Some outlets also hire TV’s and DVD players.

Other things to do

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Whale watching is possible in Rarotonga during the months of August and September. The humpback whales come from Antarctica to the warmer waters of the Cook group to mate and calf. The Cook Islands exclusive economic zone has been formally declared a whale sanctuary. The Whale Centre in Nikao is an interesting place to visit, to find out more about these magnificent ocean creatures.

Two libraries and museums just out of town are great for browsing. On the way to the “old library and museum” you’ll pass the Avarua Christian Church. The adjacent graveyard is interesting to wander through and of note is the bust of the late Albert Royale Henry, the first Cook Islands premier who was instrumental in guiding the country towards self-government in 1964.

Sunday After a busy Saturday night, relax on Sunday like the locals. Sunday is

26 • ESCAPE& local designers international

banana court – Phone: 25060

regarded as a day of worship and rest. A wonderful memory to take home is the singing in one of the islands’ Cook Islands Christian Churches. CICC coral limestone churches, hand built by the forefathers of Cook Islanders, are in every village and visitors are warmly welcomed to Sunday services. Morning tea is provided by the congregations.

Weddings Rarotonga has become a popular location for weddings and honeymoons. Wedding packages designed to suit each couples taste and budget are available from a number of operators on the island. The golden beach of uninhabited Koromiri islet in Muri lagoon is one of the most popular locations for weddings. Young coconut saplings planted by each newly wed couple line the beach and are testimony to the islet’s popularity.

Relax In the Cook Islands you’ll hear the phrase “island time” a lot. You are a long way from the hustle and bustle of the outside world, so…walk a little slower, savour every moment of your holiday in paradise and don’t worry about being a bit late for engagements. That is island time on Rarotonga.

Island Wear Creative Flair with a

Located in central Avarua P. (682) 20548 Find us on Facebook

Come in to view our extensive range of sarongs, island clothing, footwear and t-shirts. Rarotonga’s largest selection of souvenirs, crafts and gift ideas.

COOK ISLANDS Top Jewellery & Gift Store BEST PRICES • QUALITY • SELECTION • SERVICE

BLACK PEARL JEWELLERY - Avaiki Black Pearls Karen Walker Jewellery Polynesian Rings in Gold and Silver Wedding/Engagement & Dress Rings Gold & Silver Chains, Charms, Earrings Lladro • Amber • Jade • Coral • Opal

Mana Court, Avarua | Ph: 22325 Rarotongan Resort | Ph: 27325 Edgewater Resort | Ph: 28325 Pacific Village Muri | Ph: 21325

For the best deal in the Cook Islands come to

Goldmine, Main Road, Avarua

P. 24823 | F. 24824 | email: goldmine@oyster.net.ck www.rarotongablackpearls.com

treasure@oyster.net.ck ESCAPE • 27

island cuisine

SILVERSANDS

(at Muri Beach Club Hotel) Erika Bult knows food.

As soon as I’ve introduced myself, she launches into a passionate discourse about nutrition and how most of us are eating empty foods, foods that satiate but don’t satisfy. She talks with reverence about the healing powers of the ancient Polynesians’ diet – fish, fruit, and root vegetables – and about how each dish on the menu before us derives in some way from Pacific produce.

Erika manages the Muri Beach Club Hotel, and tonight she insists on joining me for dinner so she can talk me through optimising my tasting experience. She and

Happy hour everyday 4pm - 6pm Monday A la carte - Natua live music Tuesday A la carte - Surround sounds Wednesday Island Night Extravaganza by Akirata Performing Arts Troupe Thursday A la carte - Surround sounds Friday Pig & Prawn Night Soulful Sounds of Leilani Saturday A la carte - Surround Sounds Sunday Reef & Beef Night - Henzart & Destiny

Open Everyday Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner Ph: 23000 for reservations Located at Muri Beach Club Hotel 28 • ESCAPE

Waterline The

Restaurant & Beach Bar

I share a table at SilverSands Restaurant & Bar, a polished room with doors that open onto the sands of Muri Beach. We watch as the sun dips behind the horizon, leaving a silhouette of the motu – islet – across the reputed lagoon. In this dining room, it’s as if we’re straddling two worlds – in this simple, unpretentious paradise, we’re eating with multiple sets of cutlery and ordering from a menu created by someone who understands gourmet gastronomy.

Erika is proud of the menu she bills as “more than a menu” and a “culinary celebration”. It’s a labour of love, she explains – the product of innumerable hours New Zealand chef Jocelyn Ballantyne spent researching nutrition and experimenting with food. Jocelyn makes everything from scratch, Erika says, and 85 per cent of the menu is gluten- and/or lactose-free to accommodate travellers with food sensitivities.

Erika is an advocate of Pacific cuisine, but she is also a cosmopolitan connoisseur, having spent 35 years in the hospitality industry overseas. She knows the intricacies of flavour and how food interacts with wine on the palate; and in collaboration with Jocelyn, she was able compile a menu that also features wine recommendations alongside each dish.

The menu also encourages diners to sample more than one dish, offering each as an entrée, with a size and price to match. (Diners can ask for the dish to be served as a main instead, if they wish.)

Erika challenges me to articulate my preferences, and though I bumble through an explanation of my eating habits, she manages to choose dishes and wine that I enjoy immensely. First I inhale a salad featuring chicken, pistachios, citrus wedges, and the sweet, local lychee, all overlaid with a minty lime dressing. Next

is mahi mahi – this morning’s catch, moist and succulent and fresh – resting on a mound of risotto, flavoured with prawns and red peppers and an orange sauce derived from local papaya.

I’m full after two dishes, but the dessert menu beckons. I order caramelised figs, dolloped by cream flavoured with amaretto and mascarpone, flecked with chocolate and biscuit crumbs, the flavours ‘tweaked’ to perfection by a homemade hazelnut and honey semifreddo. It’s superb, and a rare treat – Rarotonga is a smorgasbord of tropical fruits, but figs aren’t readily available.

I leave the hotel satiated, not only by beautiful food and full-bodied wines from vineyards in New Zealand and Australia, but by an evening of thought-provoking conversation about food and a renewed appreciation for Polynesian produce and cuisine.

Situated on the beach at Arorangi – the perfect spot for a sunset cocktail and dinner.

Open 6 days per week for lunch and dinner (closed Mondays).

Come and enjoy a wonderful meal and live music on Wednesday evenings. Bookings recommended.

RR

SilverSands Restaurant & Bar is located at Muri Beach Club Hotel and is open every day for lunch and dinner.

There’s live music on Monday, Friday, and Sunday night, a cultural performance and Polynesian buffet on Wednesday night, and a “Reef and Beef” special on Sunday night.

The most romantic location for your sunset wedding.

Enquire now!

For more information, visit www.muribeachclubhotel.com/ the-restaurant Tel 23000 for reservations.

Phone +682 22161 beachbar@waterline.co.ck www.waterline-restaurant.com ESCAPE • 29

KIKAU HUT RESTAURANT Kikau Hut, a hexagonal restaurant on the island’s sunset side, has great food and a pleasant ambiance, but its tactical advantage is its staff. Its owners are Kiwi couple Kevin and Cathy Simkin, who both embody the hospitality and warmth that attracted them to Rarotonga in the first place.

The waitresses are friendly, polite and efficient; TripAdvisor reviews almost always include references to the friendly service.

The restaurant offers guests two-way transfers in his own mini-van so they can visit the Arorangi eatery after the buses have stopped running and so they aren’t tempted to drink and drive. He also makes it a point to introduce himself to every person that sits down to eat at Kikau

Hut. He even follows up, visiting tables to ensure occupants are enjoying their meals.

Kikau Hut invites diners to bring their own bottles of wine even though they have an excellent stock of NZ and Australian wines, and offers to filet and cook fish that guests may have caught aboard a fishing charter that very day. On some evenings local musicians entertain patrons with the sounds of the islands throughout dinner.

The restaurant is open and airy, with big expansive windows and a thatched-roof patio, but it’s still a small and intimate affair, a nice place to share a bottle of Merlot and dig into some flaky local fish or rich, creamy pasta. That’s what my two girlfriends and I did, anyway.

I ordered the catch of the day – juicy mahi mahi, dressed with a sweet chilli pawpaw salsa –with grilled bananas and a salad of fresh local vegetables. Two thumbs up – and this, from someone who consistently orders the fish.

Dine on the Beach with Pacific Resort Rarotonga

One friend had the pasta, smothered in a cream-based sauce and tossed with chicken, sundried tomatoes and mushrooms, and the other ordered the stuffed chicken breast. Both invited me to have a bite; instead I helped myself to several.

Early on we’d made a decision to sacrifice entrees in the interest of saving room for dessert, which proved to be a wise move; dessert was the jewel in the menu’s crown.

I had the chocolate wontons – yes, wontons for dessert – which were worthy of a postcard home. Served with berry couli and ice cream, the deep-fried pastry cracked open to reveal a warm, gooey mixture of white, milk and dark chocolates and banana.

One friend ordered the banoffi pie, which was also delicious – a rich combination of bananas, toffee and cream atop a base of butter and crumbled biscuits – and another the rich chocolate pudding with ice cream.

It would be a sin to eat at Kikau Hut and skip dessert. Go ahead – you’re on holiday. And if you’re too full to drive, Kevin or Cathy will drop you at your hotel.

RR

Sandals Beachfront Restaurant & Barefoot Bar Open 7 days for breakfast, lunch & dinner. Regular live entertainment.

Located in Muri at Pacific Resort Rarotonga.

Experience it for yourself!

www.pacificresort.com |

30 • ESCAPE

+682 20 427

Open 7 days for dinner from 6pm.

Tel 26860 for reservations (recommended).

TUORO LICENSED CAFÉ "Keep it small and do it well" says Michelle, and that is exactly what she and her husband Andy have done with this beautiful cafe situated high above Black Rock. Set in beautiful tropical gardens, with extensive views over the ocean, it is the perfect retreat for lunch on any day.

Attention to detail is paramount here and you can see it all around. A recently added covered area on the patio now allows you to dine out in all weathers. And on Sundays live music makes this the perfect spot to while away the whole afternoon.

After a warm greeting from Michelle, we were seated at our table and immediately served a bottle of cold water while we contemplated the menu and the ‘specials’ blackboard.

The menu is delightful and there is an excellent selection of tapas. We chose 4 tapas to share between the two of us and this proved to be sufficient, bearing in mind that we would finish with desserts.

We started with San Chow Bau - with minced chicken, ginger, garlic and finely chopped scallions, nestled in lettuce leaves …so yummy. We were then served with absolutely sublime fish wontons and a plate of sushi which was freshly made and filled with chicken and mango. But

our favourite dish proved to be the pork dumplings served with a lovely dipping sauce.

Then of course there are the desserts, and each proved to be tempting, but after much deliberation we settled for the flourless fudge cake with an amaretto twist, it proved to be the right decision as it was simply to die for.

Tuoro Licensed Café

Tuoro Cafe has a good selection of wines too - and they are licensed 7 days a week.

We chose a New Zealand Pinot Gris which was an excellent match for the tapas dishes we chose.

Jasmine Kee is the chef that came from New Zealand to work with Michelle and Andy and the menu that has been created by this trio will definitely excite most palates. I rate this cafe very highly and can't wait to return to try some more of their tempting and exciting dishes. Next time we will choose from their selection of interesting main courses.

KB

Tuoro Licensed Café is open from 11 am to 3pm but closed Saturday and Monday. Tel 21233

Great Food!

Great Views!

Great Service!

Lunchtime casual dining with a selection of flavoursome tapas & main dishes, all homemade using fresh local produce that will tantalise your taste-buds.

At very affordable prices.

Located in a tropical garden at Black Rock Villas with superb elevated views over the lagoon & ocean. Live music on Sundays.

Bookings Advised Open for lunch from 11am Closed Saturday & Monday

ph. 21233

blackrok@oyster.net.ck ESCAPE • 31 www.blackrockvillas.com

FRESH FISH CAFE

c i t n e h t u A e n i s i u C Asian A TAST E OF ASI A

Sashimi & Carpaccio Ika Mata Seafood Platters Fish, Chips & Salad Gourmet Sandwiches

Fish N Chips $12.00

All day breakfast And heaps more Located: PUNANGA NUI MARKET, AVARUA

A short stroll east of town PH: 28830 or EMAIL: bamboojacks@gmail.com We also have an air-conditioned private room for dining & meetings (with conference facilities)

Ika Mata $8.00

Mon - Sat 8am - 4pm (Friday till 8pm)

P. 23 577

Phone orders welcome

SMOOTHIE

Mon - sat ~Healthy open & 7.30aM—3pM Delicious Smoot from • TROPICAL DELIGHT All-day Breakfast $12.50

Punanga nui market (next to playground) AVARUA phone orders welcoMe

phone 23575

Add Yoghurt Ice Cream or Spirulina $

• THE GREEN MACHINE

- Sat 7:30am - 4pm Add ProteinMon or Wheat Grass $8.00

SMOOTHIES P. 23blends 575 ~Healthy & Delicious Smoothie • PROTEIN POWER UP welcome Phone orders

• TROPICAL DELIGHT

Add Peanut Butter $8.00 $ 7

Add Yoghurt Ice Cream or Spirulina $8.00

• THE GREEN MACHINE

$7

• PROTEIN POWER UP

$7

• Banana Colada

$7

• Banana Colada

Add Protein or Wheat Grass $8.00

Add Protein $8.00

Add Peanut Butter $8.00 Add Protein $8.00

JUICE BOOST

JUICE BOOSTS

$7 • HANGOVER CURE $7 $7 • ENERGY UP $7 ~Freshly Squeezed—Add Vitamin Supplement $1.00 •GOURMET SUPER SKINNY SALADS & SUSHI ••POLYNESIAN BEEF SALAD $13 IRONMAN PUMP • THAI CHICKEN SALAD $13 • HANGOVER CURE • ENERGY UP • SUPER SKINNY • IRONMAN PUMP

$13 Vitamin Su ~Freshly Squeezed—Add

• SMOKED MARLIN SALAD • SUSHI PACKS (FRESH DAILY)

$13 Fresh Sushi

GOURMET SALADS Gourmet Salads

ESPRESSO RANGE Locally Roasted Espresso Coffee

MED

• SHORT OR LONG BLACK $4 • CAPPUCINNO • LATTE $4 • FLAT WHITE • MOCHACHINO $4 • HOT CHOCOLATE $4 $4 • POT OF TEA • ICE CHOCOLATE • COFFEE • MOCHA WITH CREAM • COFFEE & CAKE/MUFFIN/ECLAIR COMBO

LGE

Freshly squeezed • POLYNESIAN BEEF SALAD Juice Boosts • THAI CHICKEN SALAD Healthy & delicious SUSHI Smoothies • SMOKED MARLIN SALAD made fresh dail y from Espresso Coffee • SUSHI PACKS (FRESH DAILY)

try our

Pizza Shack eat in or take out

PH 26464 • info@traderjacks.co.ck 32 • ESCAPE

Wheelchair access available

$1.50

Located: PUNANGA NUI MARKET, AVARUA

$5 $5 $5 $8 $8

& Cake

ESPRESSO RANGE And heaps more

Locally Roasted Espresso Coffee

• SHORT OR LONG BLACK • CAPPUCINNO • LATTE • FLAT WHITE • MOCHACHINO • HOT CHOCOLATE • POT OF TEA • ICE CHOCOLATE • COFFEE • MOCHA WIT • COFFEE & CAKE/MUFFIN/ECLAIR COMBO

LITTLE POLYNESIAN

TRADER JACKS Trader Jacks is something of an institution in Rarotonga – the waterfront spot to meet for lunch, dinner, a pizza, or a drink or two. It would be rare indeed to find a local or tourist who has not enjoyed either lunch or an evening there.

“An icon,” is how manager Rosa Tauia describes the place. Rosa and Jack Cooper (owner – and after whom the restaurant is named), together with Chris Douglas, have run the business for 27 years.

The wonder of Trader Jacks is in its location, perched on the end of the wharf at Avarua Harbour, which has its obvious disadvantages come cyclone season. The building was demolished by one cyclone only six months after opening back in 1986, and then again in 2005.

Rosa says they have a great mix of locals and tourists, with many locals popping in to enjoy the seaside breeze and sunset while having an after work drink, and tourists making the most of the restaurant with its stunning views of the small harbour, which is always alive with activity.

Trader Jacks also has a vibrant bar scene, with the bar area full come evening until late, complete with live music on Friday and Saturday evenings.

We opted for a lunch-time visit on what was another perfect Cook Islands day.

There was plenty to watch across the water while we waited for our starters to arrive – swimmers and paddlers in their vaka venturing outside the reef, and the occasional trumpet fish floating through the shallows.

The lunch menu is also the dinner menu, with a range of options from something light to the more filling, and an emphasis on the freshest seafood. There is also a pizza bar on the ground level that serves food to the restaurant, as well as the bar area; the pizzas are of course also available to takeaway.

For my starter I shared the delicious salt and pepper squid, served with mayonnaise and one of the islands fresh juicy limes.

It was perfect washed down with a glass of Steinlager, which they have on tap and also bottled.

I chose to continue my lunch with more seafood, wanting to sample the home smoked marlin. Served as a salad, it was just as I had imagined – a generous amount of very tasty smoked marlin, set on a bed of lettuce, cucumber, julienned carrot, olives, radish and red onion, and dressed lightly.

My partner chose the grilled chicken sandwich, which proved to be a delicious combination of chicken, bacon, tomato, lettuce and avocado, set between grilled slices of homemade bread.

To end our lunch we shared the coconut key lime pie over two flat whites – great coffee and the dessert was so good we were fighting over the last mouthfuls.

fine dining breakfast & lunch from 8am tapa’s & cocktails from 4pm dinner from 6pm reservations recommended ph:24280 email:sales@littlepolynesian.com www.littlepolynesian.com Cook Islands Leading Boutique Hotel

Top 10 Hotels for Romance in the South Pacific

“ Where meals and memories are made...”

Relax and enjoy your Breakfast, Lunch, a cup of espresso coffee, an icy cold beer or your favourite drink while gazing out to the beautiful lagoon.

We serve authentic Thai food, tasty Mexican, burgers, fish and chips, home-made desserts and much more…

RS Mince Pork Salad

Hours: Monday to Saturday with lunch 11.30am – 2.30pm and dinner 6pm – 10pm.

The bar opens until 2am on Friday and midnight on Saturday with live music both nights. Tel 26464

Opening Hours Sunday to Thursday 9:00am – 2:30pm

Down south in Titikaveka

Tel.(+682)20020 S ALTWATER CAFE - R AROTONGA

ESCAPE • 33

BEACHFRONT MURI LAGOON

NEW iSOBAR beach bar

Exciting cocktails and Matutu beer on tap.

CAFÉ SALSA OPEN 7 DAYS 8am till late Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner Dinner Reservations Recommended Saturdays – Sailing Regatta Day Wireless Internet Available

It’s a humid summer afternoon, and we’re hiding from the sun at Café Salsa, seated at a picnic table shaded by a flame-tree with brilliant red flowers. We’re greeted by a local waitress, who offers a smile and a smoothie of freshly picked banana and papaya. Town is quiet, subdued by the heat, and a fruit smoothie in the shade is exactly what we needed.

We’re among several other late afternoon diners, regulars by the looks of it, who the servers know by name and who don’t need menus to order. Café Salsa’s owner waves from across the restaurant; he’s busy talking to someone, but makes sure to send over a platter of local fare our way before we’ve even looked over our menus. Our dining experience is off to a good start.

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PHONE • 27349 www.sailsrestaurant.co.ck www.theweddingguys.co.ck 34 • ESCAPE

The platter that arrives is a sampler of Cook Islands flavours – dishes made from local fish and vegetables. Everything is fresh and light and delicious. There’s ika mata – cubes of fresh yellowfin tuna and diced vegetables marinated in coconut cream, garnished with a sprig of coriander.

There’s a garlicky rukau, or young taro leaves cooked in coconut cream, and a flavourful kumara mash. There’s pan-fried parrotfish wrapped in bacon. Then there are some fusion dishes – crispy pizza flatbread, skewers of succulent broadbill smothered in a fresh hollandaise sauce that Salsa’s chefs made this morning.

We’re satisfied.

Café Salsa is among the most consistently good eateries on Rarotonga. Its loyal cus-

tomer base is a testament to that. I know people who eat lunch at Salsa almost every day.

From the breakfast menu, which is available all day, diner favourites include the smoked marlin hash, topped with eggs and hollandaise, the coconut pancakes with bacon and grilled banana, and the newly introduced fried potato hash with cheese and bacon. For the thrifty breakfaster, he notes, Salsa does eggs and toast for $8.

Lunch favourites include the strip-steak sandwich with egg and onion, creamy pastas, wood-fired pizzas, curried eke (octopus) and fish dishes – Salsa uses fresh, local parrotfish, broadbill, and mahimahi.

Salsa’s chefs make their own chicken pate and have their own wood-fired pizza oven, for baking pizzas that range from classic (Hawaiian) to meaty (seared beef and bacon) to tropical (smoked marlin, broadbill, and anchovies with tomato, capsicum, and capers). The café focuses on local produce and products, including local Vaima Water and Matutu beer. Either Gerard or his wife Erica is always onsite to make sure their staff delivers consistently good drinks and meals. So far, so good.

RR

Café Salsa is open six days a week (closed Sundays) from 7.30 am until about 3 pm. WiFi is available for purchase. Visit Salsa on Facebook (Café Salsa) or at salsa.co.ck. Tel 22215

local recipe Sue Carruthers is ingrained in the Cook Islands’ hospitality industry. The vivacious 65-year-old started up Italian restaurant Portofino in 1983 after noticing the dearth of restaurants in Rarotonga.

After leaving Portofino in 1988, she opened Flame Tree Restaurant in Muri, which she later sold. Today, with husband Robert Brown, she now owns popular Tamarind House Restaurant plus La Casita and Rickshaw, both located at Muri.

Sue’s popular recipe books are on sale at local shops and at Tamarind House Restaurant and with her kind permission we bring you this easy to prepare and tasty dish from one of her books.

Tamarind House Restaurant & Bar Dinner Monday - Saturday Lunch Thursday & Friday Tel 26487 for reservations (recommended)

PINEAPPLE PORK CHOPS SERVES 4 The pineapple and pork complement each other well in this recipe.

Serve with rice, steamed breadfruit or kumara mash and a green salad.

Ingredients

Method

TO FINISH

4 large pork chops

Combine the marinade ingredients in a

Mix the cornflour and ½ cup of water

4 sliced rings of fresh pineapple, cores

non-metallic bowl to fit the pork chops.

together until smooth. Using the same

removed (or 4 rings canned pineapple,

Season with salt and pepper. Marinate

pan in which the pork and pineapple were

drained)

the pork chops and pineapple rings in this

cooked, lower the heat, add the reserved

mixture for about 30 minutes to an hour.

marinade mixture. Stir in the teaspoon of

Heat the oil in a large pan, remove the

butter and the dissolved cornflour in water.

pork chops and pineapple from the

Add rum if using. Stir until glaze is smooth

marinade and reserve the marinade. Fry

and glossy.

2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil MARINADE ¾ cup pineapple juice (or juice from the can if using canned rings)

the pork chops and pineapple in the pan until the pineapple rings have begun to

4 cloves garlic, crushed

caramelise and are golden brown in colour,

1 tablespoon brown sugar

and the pork chops are cooked. Set the

2 tablespoons soya sauce

cooked pork chops and pineapple aside

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

and keep warm.

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper TO FINISH

TO SERVE Place the pork chops in a serving dish, or on individual dinner plates. Top each pork chop with a pineapple slice and spoon the pineapple glaze over the pork and pineapple. See photograph for presentation idea.

1 teaspoon cornflour ½ cup cold water 1 teaspoon butter 1 tablespoon rum (optional)

ESCAPE • 37

local recipe

THE ANCHORAGE

SALT CURED YELLOW FIN TUNA WITH AVOCADO SALAD SERVES 2 TO 4 Tony Bullivant is no stranger to the hospitality industry in Rarotonga. He owned several well-known restaurants before recently taking over the Anchorage Restaurant & Bar, which is located within the Sunset Resort complex in Arorangi. Since arriving he has attracted a good deal of patronage and interest from locals and visitors alike, with his inventive dishes. Escape Magazine would like to thank Tony’s very capable Executive Chef Jason Carmichael who created this dish for your enjoyment. So, either get along to Anchorage Restaurant and Bar to try it, or create it at home for yourself.

Salted Yellow Fin Tuna 250grm fillet of fresh yellow fin tuna 40grm sea salt 40grm white sugar 30ml gin ½ cup chopped fresh dill Pinch of chilli flakes (optional)

Method In a bowl combine all of the above ingredients except the tuna. Mix well and place half the mix evenly in the centre of a piece of glad wrap, then place the tuna fillet on top. Place the remaining mix evenly on top of the tuna and wrap tightly.

Store the wrapped salted tuna on a flat tray or plate in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days to cure.

After this time remove the tuna from the

38 • ESCAPE

glad wrap and rinse well under cold water, pat dry with a paper towel and slice thinly for use. Re wrap unused tuna and return to the refrigerator for later use. (The tuna will keep for up to 10 days refrigerated).

Avocado Salad

Method Combine all ingredients in a bowl and lightly mix until all the ingredients are coated in the olive oil and seasoning.

Arrange the avocado salad nicely in the centre of the serving plate or platter and top with thinly sliced salted tuna.

1 large ripe avocado cubed

Here at the Anchorage Restaurant we like

¼ red onion finely diced

to serve this dish with crispy fried maniota,

1 tomato seeded and finely diced

paw paw sauce and fresh mint.

½ yellow capsicum finely diced

This combination avocado salad is also

2 tablespoons of chives finely sliced

great served on bread or used on an

Juice of ½ a lemon

antipasto platter.

40ml of good olive oil Tabasco sauce to taste (optional) Salt and pepper to taste

Anchorage Restaurant & Bar, Arorangi Open 7 days for breakfast, lunch & dinner Reef & Beef night Tuesdays – live entertainment BBQ buffet Sundays – live entertainment Tel 23004 for reservations

village life

Where ever I Travel Story & artist: Joan Gragg

W

here ever I travel I notice what people are wearing on their feet. It’s a childhood thing that lingers with me.

We lived in Tutakimoa, the village in the centre of Avarua, where mainly Northern Islanders live.

Our feet took us everywhere. Our father had the idea that walking was good for us!

We never owned a car because he believed if we had a car we would not notice the changing colour of the mountains, the sea, or the changes in season. Talking about walking was one of his favourite subjects.

We didn’t have shoes for everyday wear, neither did many grownups, except for the government workers and our Dad who had such tender feet he could not walk on grass let alone kirikiri (coral pebbles).

Few people in the village had push bikes.

They were used more as a tool to carry heavy loads.

I had a bicycle to ride to Tereora (High School) when I was 13. I chose my bike from A B Donalds. They had only men’s bikes at the time and the next shipment was another month away. I persuaded my parents that I always wanted a man’s bike and I would not change my mind when the new ladies bikes came in. It was the best thing I ever had. The bar from the seat to the handle bars made it versatile.

A passenger could ride in the front sitting down on the bar, while another could ride at the back standing up on the fork that held the back wheel on. Once when my sister tried to ride on the back of a bike her foot slipped into the wheel. The skin and veins on the top of her foot were scrapped off her bones by the spokes of the wheel.

Her foot bled profusely and she turned

40 • ESCAPE

'Ambulance' white. We thought she was going to die. Luckily our Dad was close by to rush her to the hospital, sitting on the bar of his bike. She survived but still has a nasty scar.

There were road rules for bicycles. At night a light of some sort had to be carried; a torch, kerosene lamp or a dynamo. A bell was standard equipment. We used a torch but hardly ever rode at night. Four on a bike was quite acceptable.

We were very lucky living in Tutakimoa because we were in the centre of town close to the shops, harbour, post office, hospital, school and movie theatre.

On Friday nights we walked excitedly to the movies. We knew what was playing at the theatre because a truck would drive through Tutakimoa in the afternoon with four or five drummers on the back beating the drums, while a boy scattered cyclostyled pieces of paper advertising the movie. We collected as many as we could to take home.

I remember when the first Japanese soris, jandals made with rush soles, first came to Tutakimoa. Soon after jandals in plastic, rubber or leather became the rage for a fraction of the price of other shoes.

Suddenly jandals became a status symbol

'Jandals' and were worn even if we didn’t need to wear them.

All my younger sisters in turn enjoyed owning my bike when I went away to school in New Zealand.

While I was away huge changes took place, the Rarotongan Hotel was built and the Cook Islands became self-governing in free association with New Zealand. The airport was built and opened by Princess Anne and the Cook Islands

'Fasten your seat belt'

Playingof the Cardlsands

'Time to leave'

Cook Is National Art Trust dance team were invited to perform at the opening of the Sydney Opera House.

By the time I came home from school motorbikes, the Honda 50cc’s were king of the road, even our Dad had one. He was seventy years old and Carmena Blake, about twelve at the time, coached him while he rode around the orange plot until he was confident to go out on the road.

Motorbikes made getting around much faster than riding a push bike.

Today everyone in Tutakimoa has a motorbike or could borrow one. Even today they are ridden with confidence by young and old.

'Sunday Best'

Our feet took us everywhere. Our father had the idea that walking was good for us!

We never owned a car because he believed if we had a car we would not notice the changing colour of the mountains, the sea, or the changes in season.

To greet someone riding in the opposite direction, it is good manners to tilt your head up and raise your eyebrows in acknowledgement.

Today cars and double cab trucks are seen squeezed into garages next to our homes in Tutakimoa. Everyone has at least one pair of jandals. Sports shoes in all colours and sizes are available. Almost everyone has a motorbike, some have a car or truck as well.

Things have changed for the better.

Every day we are grateful we live on this beautiful island.

Novel, unique and appealingly attractive, this deck of cards features 54 art works by Joan Gragg. Joan’s art is influenced by everyday life in the Cook Islands. An ideal gift or souvenir!

Available from: Beachcomber Pearl Market • Bounty Bookshop • Island Craft • Island Living • Perfumes of Rarotonga • The Art Studio • The Gift Shop

See Joan’s artwork at The Furniture Centre

ES NOW IN STOR

ESCAPE COOK ISLANDS

2016 Calendar

The Escape Magazine 2016 Calendar features the very best of Cook Islands images captured by our photographers during the past year.

Each calendar is individually shrink-wrapped and has a stiffening board plus envelope for ease of mailing. From most stores and souvenir outlets on Rarotonga and Aitutaki. $15.90

Illustrations in this story are indicative of those on Joan’s Playing Cards of the Cook Islands. Packs of those cards are available from selected retailers. See the advertisement on this page. Joan’s art can also be viewed at The Furniture Centre.

Cook Islands 2016

Calendar

ESCAPE • 41

young

50 Years

Story: Rachel Reeves

The Cook Islands government is turning 50

Final day of the colonial era. Albert Henry speaking outside the Government administration block, Avarua, 1965. Seated behind is the last resident commissioner of the Cook Islands, Mr A.O. Dare; Governor General of New Zealand, Sir Bernard Ferguson and Lady Ferguson.

I

t's birthday party, fuelled by patriotism began when 2015 did. Over the course of the year, concerts have been staged, books written, coins minted, and dances choreographed in anticipation of 4 August, when the country celebrates not independence but self-governance – the end of its life as a colony and the birth of today’s political system.

42 • ESCAPE

A brief history Until 1965, the Cook Islands spent more than a century under some measure of external rule.

The story begins with the arrival of London Missionary Society evangelisers in the early 19th century.

The missionaries forbade warfare,

drastically changing the way chiefs acquired and maintained political power, triggering the breakdown of traditional governance. Soon after, trade networks were established, linking the Cook Islands to the world economy, and in 1888 the islands became a British protectorate with dominion status. The transition was largely peaceful, led by Rarotonga’s ariki, who worried about being overtaken by France the way Tahiti had been.

In 1901, New Zealand annexed the islands, ushering in a long period of colonial rule. The late Ron Crocombe, a professor who dedicated his life to studying and writing about Cook Islands history, postulated in a book entitled Cook Islands Politics that New Zealand’s rein began to unravel with the end of World War II. “But the Cook Islands were at the end of the line so far as world forces go, and almost nobody among either the colonizers or the colonized thought that these trends would have any significant impact there – except Albert Henry who was in New Zealand, where

he became aware of the coming changes while in close contact with the trade union movement, the Communist Party and the Labour Party there,” Crocombe wrote.

The end of the war marked a shift in consciousness, at least on paper. The United Nations formed the Special Committee on Decolonisation, which discouraged colonialism among its member states. In 1964, New Zealand’s Parliament responded by writing a new constitution for the Cook Islands. Many colonial administrators were hesitant; they worried about a law-making body with no experience controlling the Cook Islands’ financial future. But New Zealand was eager to comply with the United Nations’ decree, so “drafted the changes, promoted them and persuaded Cook Islanders to accept them”, Crocombe wrote.

charisma about how the time had come for Cook Islanders to reclaim their right to govern themselves.

“You could almost see the dust rising over Rarotonga as committees met, groups gathered, discussion raged,” Henry’s biographer Kathleen

Today, many people believe the agreement was reached in haste.

“We were dumped in 1965,” says Iaveta Short, a local lawyer, formerly a politician and diplomat. “There was no mass demand for independence.

Nobody knew what was going on.”

Amidst all the change, Albert Henry, who was to become the nation’s first premier, moved home with a head full of progressive political ideas. As he had done in New Zealand, he rallied support among his people, speaking with fervour and

Hancock wrote. “It was a time of ferment.”

The Cook Islands people were presented with four governance options, and after a half-hour of deliberation chose to enter into “free association” with New Zealand.

The nation would be fully autonomous,

though still tightly bound to its coloniser – Cook Islanders would remain New Zealand citizens with New Zealand passports, and New Zealand would retain responsibility for the country’s external affairs and defence.

(Today, New Zealand is still in charge of the country’s defence, but the Cook Islands government has a Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Immigration to mediate most of its international relations.)

Choosing full independence would have caused Cook Islanders to lose their New Zealand citizenship, and already their people were divided between the two countries – after World War II, Cook Islanders, having earned a reputation as a hardworking people, had been recruited to work on New Zealand’s farms, and in its factories and timber mills.

“Our people chose internal selfgovernment… That’s a choice that we made,” Iaveta says. “I think an important part of that choice was our people wanted

ESCAPE • 43

discouragement of local initiative, by lack of participation in government and by the pent-up feeling against the dictatorial attitude of the Resident Commissioner’s administration”.

to have the right to go to New Zealand because by 1965, a lot of our people had already left.”

On 4 August, 1965, the country staged its first elections. For the first time in modern history, the Cook Islands people were actors on their own political stage.

The constitution was enacted, a new Legislative Assembly was elected, and an independent judiciary was established.

Albert Henry – often hailed as the Father of the Nation – and his Cook Islands Party won by a landslide and moved in to fill the void New Zealand left when it surrendered colonial control.

On 4 August, 1965, the country staged its first elections. For the first time in modern history, the Cook Islands people were actors on their own political stage.

As has been the case throughout much of imperial history, the coloniser didn’t prepare the colonised for the changeover.

The late Mana Strickland, the country’s first deputy premier, wrote in the 1970s that when the Cook Islands became selfgoverning the community wore a “thick crust of apathy which was forced upon us by the strong arm of direct rule, by

44 • ESCAPE

Political contention characterised succeeding decades, as the parliamentary system clashed with cultural values and traditional social structures. “We struggled in the first 30 years as we governed with the Maori Polynesian experience of tribal governments, or government of the family, supported by the family, for the family, at the national level,” says Makiuti Tongia, one of the Cook Islands’ most prolific political scholars and writers, an ethnologist and lecturer who now teaches at Papaaroa College. “We imposed a village level government at the national level and naturally had nepotism, corruption, transparency issues, [and] conflicts of interest, as expected of family governments. Some of these issues are still haunting us today. But in ‘65, no one really understood what these issues meant – not from a national government perspective anyway.”

Suddenly the families, villages, and tribes on islands spread over nearly two million

kilometres of ocean were a sovereign nation, united under one flag, anthem, currency, and government.

The present Much has been achieved since 1965 – this 50-year milestone demands that we reflect on, and remember, the people who cared deeply about the Cook Islands’ future and worked hard to better it.

Their efforts give us plenty of reasons to celebrate.

After attaining self-governance, the country escaped coup and civil war, unlike some of its Pacific neighbours in the postcolonial era. It achieved an increased life expectancy and a higher standard of

Albert Henry and the first Government of the Cook Islands, following self-government on 4th August 1965. Left to right: Albert Henry - Premier and Minister of Finance; Dr. Manea Tamarua - Minister of Health; Mana Strickland - Minister of Education; Julian Dashwood - Attorney General and Post Office Minister; Apenera Short - Minister of Agriculture and Tiakora Numanga - Minister of Public Works.

living than most other small island states. Elections are democratic and regular.

Newspapers, television, and radio are privately owned.

In 1965, there were about 20 local businesses; now there are more than 2000.

Under colonial rule, people were discouraged from starting businesses, but today, as Makiuti points out, “many are no longer ‘akama or shy to stand by their stalls next to the road and sell their nu, tomatoes, pawpaws and other agricultural produce”.

The weekly markets in Avarua, Muri, and Arorangi are a reflection of that.

ESCAPE • 45

and tertiary education… It was the official policy of the colonial office to keep us uneducated,” Makiuti says. Tereora College was closed in 1911, and didn’t reopen until 1955 – a decade before the country attained autonomy and needed lawmakers. Today, though, education is free through the secondary level and the government offers tertiary scholarships via the Ministry of Education.

Tourism has exploded as an economic mainstay.

Before the airport opened in 1974, about 1000 visitors arrived each year; today, there are 18 international flights a week and more than 120,000 tourists a year. Travellers come from around the world, and most of them return.

Movies, magazines, and celebrities have heightened the Cook Islands’ profile. Recently TripAdvisor named Aitutaki as one of the 10 most beautiful beach destinations in the world.

Fifty years ago, there were only about a half-dozen local people with tertiary qualifications. “[New Zealand] was in fact anti-secondary and -tertiary education for our people, with the effect that our first leaders in 1965 had no secondary

46 • ESCAPE

Free of colonial condescension, the Cook Islands people have reclaimed their cultural pride. Dance and performing arts, traditional titles, and vaka voyaging are enjoying resurgence. More people are speaking out about the importance of reclaiming the native tongue that colonial administrators attempted to extinguish.

In the 1980s, Maori linguist and professor Dr Patrick Hohepa referred to the Maori being spoken by Cook Islands youth as Maroro Maori, or the Maori of the flying fish, because they were slipping in and out of Maori and English in the same sentence.

Today, Makiuti points out, we have technology with the potential to spread the reach of Maori instruction.

There are countless reasons to celebrate the postcolonial Cook Islands, but they are not the whole story. Because like every historic account, the Cook Islands’ tale of self-governance depends on who’s telling it. Today some prominent thinkers are disillusioned; they believe self-governance has failed. They cite the country’s gravest problem – depopulation – as the only piece of evidence they need. Today, the number of Cook Islanders living overseas is more than six times the number of those living at home. Cook Islanders, who hold New Zealand passports and can live and work in New Zealand and Australia, have for decades been leaving in search of greener political and economic pastures, and foreign workers are moving in to fill the labour gaps.

“Are we better off now than we were in ’65?” asks John Herrmann, one of the Cook Islands’ leading thinkers and educators. “I’m not so sure.”

The locals’ reasons for leaving are many.

Like any country, the Cook Islands is not without its share of problems – the cost of living is high and the minimum wage is low, lending rates are prohibitive, the land tenure system is unwieldy. There are other serious cracks in the system besides – political patronage, misuse of public funds, neglect of outer islands constituencies, a costly and complex electoral system, and a lingering colonial hangover.

“Are we better off now than we were in ’65?” asks John Herrmann, one of the Cook Islands’ leading thinkers and educators. “I’m not so sure.”

Even the Cook Islands Christian Church – a nucleus around which the community revolves – isn’t so sure. Church secretary Nga Mataio says party politics have been a “destabilising and divisive force” amongst families and households – a foreign concept that doesn’t mesh with Polynesian ideals of loyalty to family and tribe. Self-governance, in Nga’s view, exacerbated depopulation and bled the country of its most valuable asset – its people.

The future Still, Makiuti says, there are signs that the Cook Islands will enjoy a prosperous future – the proliferation of small business, locals finding innovative ways to make a living and stimulate the economy. He’s also hopeful about the future of politics. He believes that as time passes people, especially the younger generation, are becoming more tolerant and accepting of other viewpoints – a departure from the fierce loyalty to family and party that has characterised politics for decades.

ESCAPE • 47

The essence of this year’s celebration… to look with hope into the country’s future and to recognise with pride that 50 years after becoming a nation, the Cook Islands is standing on its own two feet.

Fifty years after becoming a nation, the Cook Islands is still breathtakingly beautiful, blessed with bounty and steeped in the spirit of aro’a. Fifty years after becoming a nation, it’s still paradise.

The challenge, now and into the future, is to keep it so.

“As a nation, as a people, we have to value the country that we have with all the resources it has,” John Herrmann says.

“Whatever you have, if you treat it as gold, you’re more likely to get the best out of it.”

48 • ESCAPE

Still, Makiuti says, there are signs that the Cook Islands will enjoy a prosperous future – the proliferation of small business, locals finding innovative ways to make a living and stimulate the economy. He’s also hopeful about the future of politics. He believes that as time passes people, especially the

younger generation, are becoming more tolerant and accepting of other viewpoints – a departure from the fierce loyalty to family and party that has characterised politics for decades.

ESCAPE • 49

d l r o W Gateway TO THE Story: Rachel Reeves

Rarotonga welcomes its first jet aircraft

50 • ESCAPE

Queen Elizabeth II and Albert Henry at the official opening of the International Airport

In 1965, the Cook Islands held its first elections.

Upon entering office, the country’s new lawmakers found themselves saddled with some big decisions.

Suddenly they were responsible for their own destiny. Suddenly they were in charge of charting a new nation’s course.

Already the islands were depopulating. To hold onto its people, the government needed to resuscitate the economy. There was talk of using the Cook Islands’ natural beauty to attract tourists, and using commercial aviation, which was expanding rapidly around the world, to bring them here.

In 1968, the Cook Islands’ Legislative Assembly struck a deal with the New Zealand government, which agreed to fund a $6 million international airport in exchange for landing rights. The agreement heralded probably the most drastic change wrought in the last half-century, opening the country to a new industry that would become the backbone of its economy.

Before self-governance, about 1000 people were visiting the Cook Islands each year.

They came on periodic ships, the New Zealand Air Force Hercules, or monthly flying boats operated by Tasman Empire Airlines Ltd. In those days, tourist accommodation was sparse.

When local businessman Harry Napa built the KiiKii Motel in 1968 – six years before the airport opened – people laughed at him. No one, including Harry, could have foreseen the rate of growth tourism would experience in succeeding decades.

ESCAPE • 51

Below: Air New Zealand DC8, one of the first aircraft providing regular services to Rarotonga from New Zealand.

People fall in love with this place. Those who visit usually return. Some tourists come every year, for as long as their visas will allow, enticed by the sun and the sea and the warm island spirit.

The first aircraft to land on Rarotonga’s tarmac arrived on 5 September, 1973.

Locals carpeted the floor of the terminal, waiting to witness history. Four months later, Queen Elizabeth II flew to Rarotonga to bless the airport, making an historic visit that Premier Albert Henry called the crowning moment of his political career.

The opening of the airport symbolised the partnership forged by the Cook Islands and New Zealand governments – Albert called it “a very special relationship which I think most of the world has found difficult to understand” – and marked the dawn of a new era in Cook Islands history.

“To us Cook Islanders this airport promises to be a stepping stone in our journey to economic self-sufficiency but we realise that we will have to meet new pressures and new challenges to change our way of life,” the premier told Queen Elizabeth. She responded with levelled optimism about the change the airport would invite.

“This international airport will bring

52 • ESCAPE

changes to the Cook Islands, some good, some bad,” the queen said. “You will have better communications with the outside world and many people from other countries will come here and this will bring you closer together… But it will also bring influences on a predictable way of life, which needs to be treated with caution. I know that your way of life is something which is very precious to you all and I am confident that you will be able to reap the benefits and avoid the pitfalls of modern communications.”

Once the airport was operational, the country poured resources into nurturing the growth of tourism. The Ministry of Social Services set up a cultural division in 1974. “This division can do much in greatly assisting the realisation of our main aim – building a nation,” Albert Henry told a Cook Islands News reporter.

The same year, the government organised a tumukorero conference, or a meeting of cultural experts and teachers in order that

they could exchange ideas and talk about ways to market and share Cook Islands culture with the world.

Word of the destination spread throughout the international community, and by the end of 1975, the number of tourists had jumped to 11,000 per year. Four years Below: Cook Islands Airways provided the first domestic services to outer islands. The photo shows the first aircraft to land at the Mangaia airstrip.

COOK ISLANDS

Your preferred rental car company

Original staff at The Rarotongan hotel

later, The Rarotongan hotel opened in Arorangi, with a financial injection from the New Zealand government. The hotel was tasked with teaching Cook Islanders new skills required for a burgeoning hospitality industry. That year marked a 58 per cent increase in visitor arrivals. By 1990, more than 34,000 people were visiting each year.

Today, Rarotonga gets 18 international flights a week from New Zealand, Australia, Los Angeles, and Tahiti; in 2014, more than 121,400 tourists visited the Cook Islands.

Though its visitor numbers lag behind those recorded by Fiji and Tahiti, the Cook Islands has the highest number of tourists per capita in the region. Halatoa Fua, chief executive officer at Cook Islands Tourism Corporation, says the Cook Islands is a destination “uniquely distinguished by the ease of getting around Rarotonga and Aitutaki, its accessible white-sand beaches, its vibrant culture and friendly people”. That’s just the industry’s way of saying the Cook Islands are heaven on earth.

People fall in love with this place. Those who visit usually return.

Some tourists come every year, for as long as their visas will allow, enticed by the sun and the sea and the warm island spirit.

They come, and the locals go, in search of jobs and better money and a taste of city life. Both the incoming and the outgoing pass through the international airport, a symbolic institution that wrought changes both good and bad, just as Queen Elizabeth predicted.

Unlimited Kilometres Airport Pick-up & Drop-off Afterhours Roadside Assistance

LOCATIONS Downtown Avarua Pacific Resort Muri Rarotonga International Airport RESERVATIONS Phone: (682) 22833 Email: reservations@aviscookislands.com

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www.aviscookislands.comESCAPE • 53

T

he Cook Islands is a country divided by ocean, a 1.8 million square kilometers mass of water separating each of the 15 islands. But each year in a special event, that vast distance ceases to exist, when the far flung islands come together for a festival to celebrate nationhood.

Puaikura Dance Team Pe'e

54 • ESCAPE

Te Maeva Nui - celebrating Cook Islands nationhood

ESCAPE • 55

T

he Cook Islands gained independence in 1964. That historical event is commemorated with the Te Maeva Nui Festival, a week of outstanding cultural performances, sporting events, trade and food shows on Rarotonga, with each island showcasing their uniqueness.

Held at the beginning of August, the northern and southern islands travel to Rarotonga to participate in Te Maeva Nui, with new performances especially prepared to fit in with the annual festival theme, set by the Ministry of Cultural Development (MOCD).

MOCD secretary Sonny Williams says it’s the annual theme that keeps the festival standard exceptionally high, to the point that locals believe they get better each year, something that he stopped saying “a long time ago”.

“I think people should realize that because there is a new theme every year, all the performances are new, there’s always a new focus which makes it different and people see this as being better.”

Sonny adds: “To me there is always the same high standard that teams come up with every year, because we focus on a different theme and a different area of our culture.”

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Visitor’s come away feeling elated to have experienced outstanding indigenous cultural performances and locals leave proud of their culture.

The performances are held in the National Auditorium which has seating for 2000, but with capacity crowds every night MOCD squeezes in more seating at ground level. Each night the audience experiences stunning, resplendent costumes made from natural fibres, dancers and singers who exude vibrancy and pure joy to be performing before their people, and legendary Cook Islands drumming.

Visitor’s come away feeling elated to have experienced outstanding indigenous cultural performances and locals leave proud of their culture.

There are six different categories of cultural performances: the fast, upbeat ura-pau or drum dance, it is electrifying to hear the pulsating rhythms and watch the sheer energy and stamina of dancers.

Next is the kapa rima, an action song which is slower and showcases technique and grace.

The pe’e section is where the main male performer will lead with a traditional chant which is followed by a theatrical performance, usually based on a wellknown legend or theme that falls in line with the overall festival theme.

The ute or chant is when the entire group is on stage, with women sitting in a U-shaped formation and the men standing behind – as the ute progresses, it becomes livelier with members breaking into dance.

The imene tuki is the traditional hymn sung with gusto and passion – it is unlike any other church hymn. Women

Without a doubt, Te Maeva Nui has developed over the years into a stunning festive occasion for an entire island nation...

Without a doubt, Te Maeva Nui has developed over the years into a stunning festive occasion for an entire island nation, and one that is gaining international repute as an extraordinary event to witness. But it wasn’t always like that says Sonny.

Ewan Smith

reach incredibly high pitches with bass backing by men. This also gets very lively and performers express their joy with impromptu performances throughout the hymn.

A separate drumming competition, the tangi kaara, is also held during the festival.

This is a thrilling event that is just pure Cook Islands style drumming.

Previously known as the Constitution Celebrations back in the 70s and 80s, it was more of a political celebration – the government of the day reveling in being in power and rewarding outer islands who had helped vote them into office, by bringing festival teams to Rarotonga entirely made up of supporters. That,

Ewan Smith

says Sonny, resulted in the songs and dances being composed praising the ruling party or politicians in power. “It was very divisive.”

“It was a celebration of a particular government being in power, when it should’ve been a celebration of nationhood whatever government

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ESCAPE • 57

“The idea is that if we are selective in these themes, in 20 or 30 years time we will have a complete historical account of our communities, where none exists at the moment. The important thing is to bring it out and teach it to the young people – when these young people perform a legend, a song or a drum dance, it sticks in their mind and they learn their culture and history.” happened to be in power.” He adds: “Those factors affected the morale of the communities and there was a lot of anger in those days, so we decided on setting an annual theme to change it to a truly cultural event, one where people would focus on our culture rather than being sidetracked into politics.”

It was a decision that brought excellent results for the commemorative festival.

“All of a sudden people starting looking into their own island culture, to research

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their specific history,” rather than focusing on political praise to earn kudos from a government.

Sonny explains that he chose to start the theme at the very beginning hence “Te Kapuanga o Toku Mata Kainanga” – the creation of my homeland. Subsequent themes like “Te Aka’nooanga o Toku Mata Kainanga” – the settlement of my homeland, have followed each year, allowing for performances to express the progression and development of each island from ancient times to present day.

“The idea is that if we are selective in these themes, in 20 or 30 years time we will have a complete historical account of our communities, where none exists at the moment. The important thing is to bring it out and teach it to the young people – when these young people perform a legend, a song or a drum dance, it sticks in their mind and they learn their culture and history.”

With that positive change at work, performances began peaking in 2004 at a time when the competition was “really

cut throat, because it was based on the first past the post system, teams were just busting themselves to win the big first prize,” says Sonny.

“There were some amazing things in those years which set the level for the following years.” Today that level is consistently outstanding with teams putting in months of practice to fine tune their performances and costumes, most of which are truly works of art. ”But the fairness of the first past the post judging system came into question, causing MOCD to devise the grading format which was successfully piloted in 2010.

With many teams performing, the logistics and expense of bringing hundreds of performers to Rarotonga is a huge annual undertaking for successive governments and the country, where strings on the national purse are always tight. The likelihood of every island being subsidized

to allow participation, on an annual basis in the future, is very much in question.

Chartering a ship to bring teams to Rarotonga puts a considerable dent into the annual budget of this small Pacific island country. However, many believe because the festival brings the country together celebrating independence from colonialism, showcases some of the best talent, improves the quality of cultural performances, records and teaches culture and history, it’s well worth the cost. As Sonny puts it, “the focus is always on the future, but also maintaining a theme ensures there will continue to be an historical account of our cultural heritage documented.”

He also makes the point that by engaging so many individuals in the festival, by bringing in outer islands teams each year, is a sort of “mass preservation of our culture – this is the idea - keeping all the

... the festival brings the country together celebrating independence from colonialism, showcases some of the best talent, improves the quality of cultural performances, records and teaches culture and history...

ESCAPE • 59

Ewan Smith

islands and as many people as possible involved ensures this.” The DVDs of the Te Maeva Nui performances produced each year by MOCD is a good backup record that gets distributed through sales, “our people overseas use them to teach their young ones.”

After the 2011 festival we asked Sonny what he saw as the highlights. He said that it had to be the island of Mitiaro who earned some merit award for island patriotism. While the island could not send a team to compete in the festival, Sonny was approached by a small group of six mamas and a papa, who pleaded to come to Rarotonga as they had prepared a lot of craftwork for sale at the Trade Day.

The sheer joy on the faces of the dancers, singers, drummers and actors while on stage performing their culture before their people, is proof that Cook Islanders have always, and will continue to cherish their performing arts.

Bringing the small group to Rarotonga proved an investment for MOCD. “They were able to get the Mitiaro people living on Rarotonga to come together, and they put together an imene tuki, a float entry, they also joined the ute and they put a team in the tangi kaara in the last day – a

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great effort.” says Sonny. That is truly the spirit of Te Maeva Nui.

MOCD is pleased with the overall outcome of the festival. The success of the Trade and Food Day with the “Buy Local” theme has also reassured its continuation and management by the Business Trade and Investment Board.

“We were very pleased with the outcome because a lot of people benefitted – a lot

AL

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the owners, “and that is reflected in the amount of interest from travel agents and travel journalists and, more importantly, from the travelling public who are showing great interest in our resort – with the proof in the level of reservations to date.”

It’s easy to see why.

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autilus Resort is the newest resort development on the famed Muri Lagoon. It officially opened the doors to its 4 ½ star accommodations on October 1st 2014.

The dream-child of long time Rarotonga residents Paul & Jane Pearson, its opening marks a new level of comfort, service & luxury with the added benefit of also being eco-friendly and child friendly.

The resort boasts 17 Polynesian inspired 1, 2 & 3 bedroom Are’s (Are’ is Cook Island Maori for home) each with its own private salt-water plunge pool set in an expansive deck with outdoor furnishings for your comfort, a huge bathroom with freestanding bathtub, spacious living area

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and state of the art entertainment system all set in a cool, elegant, Polynesian-chic surrounding. There are thoughtful touches throughout – the outdoor shower with direct access to the beach to stop the sand getting into your Are’, Nespresso Coffee machines in each are’, nightly turndown service with homemade treats and canopied beds.

Upon arrival your gaze is immediately drawn to the green lawn leading to the infinity pool and the impossible turquoise of the Muri Lagoon beyond. It’s a view that never fails to amaze and ticks every box on the ‘romantic guide to a south seas paradise’ list. If the Cooks Islands – as according to the Sydney Morning Herald Travel Guide – is in the top 10 destinations for 2015, then Nautilus is the first choice of the discerning traveller coming to Rarotonga.

“There’s definitely an excitement and an anticipation building around the travel industry about this new addition to the Cook Island accommodation portfolio,” say

From the Reception you are shown to your Are’ by one of the friendly Guest Service Attendants – everyone already seems to know your name as a welcoming ‘kia orana’ calls out from each passing staff member – that’s when you know you’ve made the right choice. To sit on your own private deck with a complimentary bottle of Nautilus wine and look out upon the crystal clear waters of Muri Lagoon, is truly an experience to be cherished. Or perhaps a wander around the resort’s gardens to discover a range of local fruits that are there for your enjoyment – experience local produce straight of the tree – as nature intended it.

As is the resort’s Polynesian influenced restaurant!

Opened in May 2014 under the calming guidance of Executive Chef, Mike Fosbender, Nautilus Restaurant has already had an impact on the Rarotongan dining scene. Pacific Rim fare with an emphasis on fresh, local, organic ingredients, the restaurant is open from 7.30am for breakfast which drifts through to lunch and a mouth-watering all day

Indulge Yourself… menu and then slides effortlessly through Nauti Hour (aka Happy Hour) and into dinner. House favourites range from Citrus Duck Salad and Rukau & Feta Agnolotti to Crispy Skinned Mahi Mahi and Fragrant Steamed Parrot Fish.

Talking of favourites, you can’t visit Nautilus without trying the famous Nauti Mojito! Arguably the best Mojito on the island with a couple of secret ingredients and a sugar cane swivel stick… it is, as they say, Nauti & nice!

The restaurant and bar are open to the public, so you don’t have to be a guest at the Resort to sample the great dishes coming out of the kitchen or the wicked cocktails from the bar – it’s worth making a booking though; this place gets busy.

And becoming increasingly rare in Rarotonga, we are a family friendly resort. “Just because you have children, doesn’t mean you have to compromise on comfort or service,” say the resorts’ owners who are parents of 4 young children. “We travel a lot ourselves and what we wanted to create is somewhere that we’d be happy to take our children to.” And with the resorts Kids Concierge service the children can experience Rarotonga in a fun way while learning about life on the island and some traditional skills. This supports the resorts philosophy of offering a cultural experience while in luxury surroundings.

If you’re not totally content lazing by the pool pondering your next meal, there are complimentary kayaks, Stand Up Paddle boards and snorkelling equipment for all guests. If that sounds too active, try a massage in the on-site Day Spa. Alternatively, the Guest Service Attendants will happily organise anything else for you – car hire, restaurant reservations, activity bookings – nothing is too much trouble.

“We like to surprise & delight,” says General Manager, Ben Plummer, “We’re a 4 ½ star property offering 5 star plus service.

We strive to anticipate all our guests’ needs – if you need to ask, we feel like we’ve let you down a little.”

One thing you won’t feel about a visit to Nautilus, whether as an in house guest or a diner at the restaurant, is let down. This place is setting new standards in the islands and should be on everyone’s Cook Islands holiday bucket list.

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black gold MANIHIKI’S

Story: Rachel Reeves Photos: Noel Bartley & Tina Weier

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I

t’s a typical island house – modest, weather-worn, doorless, louvres in the windows – except that outside there’s no yard and no neighbour.

The house is built on a patch of coral reef called kaoa, and it’s surrounded by cerulean sea. It’s a speck in the middle of a lagoon 10 kilometres wide, a body of water bounded by a thin ring of coral atoll – the island of Manihiki, nicknamed Island of Pearls and located more than 1200 kilometres north of Rarotonga.

This house on the kaoa is the mainstay of a pearl farm, where oysters are cultured to produce the black pearls that consumers everywhere recognise as a symbol of exotic Polynesia and its resplendent natural beauty. Manihiki’s lagoon is dotted with them – some are large enough to accommodate permanent residents, but most are small like this one.

Inside the building are a couple of wooden tables, a desk, some chairs, and a kitchen bench. Outside there’s a long-drop toilet made of cement, and below, on lines anchored by rocks and supported by buoys, hang hundreds of Pinctada margaritifera – black-lip pearl oysters.

In the corner, a technician from Japan concentrates into the lamplight. He stares intently at the shell mounted before him.

Steadily, he makes his cut. With one tool he incises the oyster’s flesh, and with another he retrieves a black pearl, then plunks it into a blue Tip-Top container filled with water.

Outside, workers are seated at a wooden bench, killing the oysters that have failed to produce pearls and extracting their korori – meat – to be eaten. If unhealthy oysters are allowed to live in the lagoon, they will consume oxygen and nutrients that would be better spent on their pearlproducing counterparts.

THE PROCESS Farmers catch wild oysters when they’re young by hanging haruharu – submerged ropes or branches, places for floating spat to settle, during biannual spawning periods in April and October.

Once they are large enough the young oysters are seeded, or implanted with a nucleus – a yellow bead made of pearl shell from the Mississippi river – and a piece of tissue from the mantle of a donor oyster. The cultured oyster reacts to the presence of the foreign object, creating a cyst to heal itself, and filling the space with nacre – the building block of a black pearl, the colour of which is influenced by the tissue from the mantle.

During the months of gestation, farmers concentrate on keeping the submerged shells healthy. Regularly bringing them up and scraping them of marine buildup is said to yield larger, rounder pearls.

Recently the practice of cleaning shells while they are still in the water hanging on

ESCAPE • 65

Clockwise form left: Kaoa; Cleaning oysters underwater; Oysters pegged open awaiting seeding; Small slices from mantle of selected oysters, included with seeding, help determine colour of pearl; Seeding the oyster.

their chaplets, is said to cause the oysters less stress.

After 18 months, they prepare for the harvest. Several locals are trained in the art of culturing pearls, but most farmers employ technicians from overseas.

But the story begins about a century before that. In the 1800s, locals were collecting wild shells and selling them to colonial traders on Rarotonga or passing ships. The colourful oyster shells were in demand by button manufacturers.

Technicians grade the pearls based on their shape, size, lustre, surface, and colour, according to the criteria outlined by the Cook Islands Pearl Authority.

In the 1950s, an English scientist named Ron Powell teamed up with Tekake William, a local who had proven himself as a skilled diver in the years he spent collecting pearls from the floor of the Penrhyn lagoon. In 1960, he set a record for diving 38 fathoms – nearly 70 metres – without a tank. Together Ron and Tekake devised a way to attract oyster spat seeking somewhere to settle and grow. They hung branches from the ngangie tree, and the young spat came. Using haruharu enabled them to monitor the oysters as they grew, and then to harvest their pearls all at once.

HISTORY The black pearl launched the remote atoll of Manihiki into the global economy in the 1980s. At its peak, the industry was earning an annual $18 million, and the tiny islands of the northern group were becoming recognised on the international stage.

In the 1970s, a man named Peter Cumming, formerly the manager of an Australian pearl company, landed on Rarotonga with a plan. He’d heard about the sprawling lagoons of the northern atolls, and he wanted to experiment with cultured pearl farming, the way other entrepreneurs had in French Polynesia. Peter procured

During harvest time, technicians and farmers are on the kaoa from sunrise to sunset. Divers retrieve submerged chaplets, and farmhands wedge the shells open and line them up for the technician, who extracts the pearls that survived the incubation period. Some of the oysters will have failed to produce pearls, but there are the successes, and these will sell.

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Right: Extracting the pearl.

a licence from the government to farm pearls, and Manihiki Pearls Limited was born, heralding the growth of a hugely profitable industry.

Later a Chinese-Tahitian entrepreneur and pearl magnate named Yves TchenPan arrived in Manihiki, an island to which he had ancestral ties. He’d heard that Manihiki’s lagoon was full of wild shells, but he knew the island had no airport.

He wanted to go for the adventure. Yves

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Returning a chaplet of oysters to the lagoon.

Opposite page top: Waterfront at Tauhunu.

Opposite page bottom: Life on a Kaoa.

took 3000 bags of cement from Fiji and materials to build a farm and a hangar for his plane. He began his own operation, employing locals to dive for shells and providing technicians to seed them, and everybody split the profits.

But, like all good things, the period of unbridled profit came to an end. The industry weathered several major storms; today it continues to produce high-quality pearls, but it is a shadow of its former self.

In 1997, Cyclone Martin hit Manihiki, causing $3 million worth of damage to farming equipment and infrastructure.

By a miracle, most oysters escaped unscathed; low air pressure had caused the sea level to rise, creating distance between anchored lines and the waves that flattened the atoll’s two villages.

The greatest loss was in labour. After the cyclone, the government evacuated more than half the atoll’s population, and many people never went home. Still, farmers may

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have been able to bounce back were it not for two additional disasters.

The summer of 2000 was unusually hot. A warm, chock-full lagoon created conditions ripe for a Vibrio harveyi outbreak, or the proliferation of a naturally-occurring bacterium so drastic that it choked 70 per cent of Manihiki’s cultured oysters.

“The Vibrio affected everybody,” says Yves Tchen Pan, who still has a farm in Manihiki’s lagoon and travels annually to the Cook Islands. “It took years to recover.”

Farmers had no choice but to kill their infected shells and wait for the next harvest. The neighbouring islands of Penrhyn and Rakahanga closed their industries for good. Many Manihiki farmers shut the doors of their seeding houses for the last time, and moved overseas. For the farmers that chose to hold on, things would only get worse. The global financial crisis shrivelled big buyer markets, and the price of pearls fell drastically.

French Polynesia, which has regular flights to consumer countries and atolls with larger lagoons, stepped in to supply the international demand, and Cook Islands farmers fell behind. More farms folded.

Some held on, emerging bruised and battered but buoyant. Today, a core of Manihiki farmers continue to supply

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Quality Cook Islands Pearls From our very own Manihiki Island Farm

Rarotonga’s shops and the Cook Islands’ export markets with black-lip pearls. About 21 farms are actively producing pearls.

Resilient farmers are working hard to nurse the industry back to robust health.

“I’ve learned a lot from the past,” says Kora Kora, a pearl farmer and president of the Manihiki Pearl Farmers Association. “I think we should’ve had a form of management plan in place during the early days but I think the community and the industry didn’t see a need at the time because they were fetching $200 a piece so why worry about that then?... Today I’m doing something different.”

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Today, the Ministry of Marine Resources employs a pearl biologist to live on Manihiki and monitor and facilitate pearl production.

A Lagoon Management Plan governs all farming activity, and improved technology makes

information about sea temperatures and oyster health more readily accessible.

In 2011, the New Zealand government donated $1.7 million to Manihiki’s pearl industry. Many farmers and retailers are confident the industry can recover. They believe the glory days aren’t over yet.

“I’ve never reached where I am today in the past,” Kora says. “That’s telling me I can actually overcome the past. We can take it to another level, beyond where we were in the 80s.”

Raui IN THE 21ST CENTURY

A

s weather patterns change and the oceans acidify and forests begin to disappear, people around the world are recognising the urgent need to care for nature’s bounty.

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Industrialised countries are discovering what Polynesians have known from time immemorial: that as stewards of our natural resources, we humans are responsible for protecting them and ensuring their sustainability. In ancient days, the island people observed a natural resource management practice called raui – a chief would declare certain areas within his district or island off-limits, or protected, to allow for the regeneration of food stocks.

What is a raui?

A raui is a ban on access to an area or resource, either land- or sea-based, for a set period of time. A chief announced a raui within his inherited tapere for one of several reasons. Some were imposed during spawning seasons so as to allow a species to propagate in peace. Some were declared in anticipation of special

occasions or the arrival of visitors, in order to ensure there would be enough food. Some were imposed during times of scarcity following a cyclone.

The chief who declared the raui and his people set its timeframe. There were two main types of restrictions – raui mutukore – a perpetual ban, or the raui ta tuatua – a ban lifted when appropriate. Certain villagers were chosen to tiaki te raui, or to monitor the area, and those who violated the raui were punished according to the severity of the breach. In the old days, for some violations the penalty was excommunication from the village; for others, death.

Back then, survival depended on a common respect for conservation of resources. As time went by, modernity eroded the old ways, and the ancient practice of raui lapsed, perhaps because people believed the bounty of nature would never run out or because they believed traditional ways were oldfashioned.

Revival of raui Then, in the late 1990s, the sentiment toward raui changed. The government ministries responsible for environmental and marine protection began to notice a decline in fish and shellfish resources.

Tourism authorities were concerned, and so were the traditional leaders in the House of Ariki and Koutu Nui; their reasons differed, but they united under the banner of a common goal.

A report was commissioned that proposed reviving the raui, and upon its release the World Wide Fund for Nature agreed to help out. Plans were prepared, media campaigns were organised, and signs were erected around Rarotonga. The raui received widespread support. Local people respected their traditional leaders, and

they could also see that their resources were at risk. Ciguatera – fish poisoning – was on the rise.

Change always elicits resistance, and the raui was no different. Some people worried they wouldn’t be able to feed their children if they couldn’t fish off their own beaches, but those championing the practice reminded them that if they didn’t conserve their resources, there would be none left for future generations.

Rarotonga accepted the raui, and three years later, Aitutaki followed suit. In Rarotonga, raui sites have been declared at the Nikao Social Centre and Avatiu harbour; the lagoons adjacent to Little Polynesian, Raina Apartments in Tikioki and from Avana harbour to Pacific Resort in Muri. The lagoons adjacent to The Rarotongan Beach Resort and Spa and Edgewater Resort are also under traditional raui.

Today the raui remains the purview of the traditional leaders in combination with the Island Councils in the Southern Group.

It has been adapted to meet modern demands. On the island of Aitutaki, some raui sites are used for the sake of eco-tourism – an example is the catchand-release policy that governs kiokio (bonefish) fishing in the Aitutaki lagoon.

Marae Moana Another dramatic change occurred in 2012, when the Cook Islands government declared more than half of its nearly two million square kilometres of ocean a marine-protected area. In doing so the government pledged its commitment to the ideals of sustainability and conservation.

Several international environmental foundations – among them Oceans5 and International Union for Conservation of

No taito te peu ka rave aki te ra’ui.

It is from ancient times that the practice of raui was carried out.

Nature (IUCN) agreed to help with the creation of the marine park, which has been named the Marae Moana.

The House of Ariki and Koutu Nui were granted funding from the International Union of Conservation and Global Blue to identify and document raui in the islands for inclusion in the mapping of the marine park.

The funding paid for a small delegation of traditional leaders to visit four of

the southern islands in order to hold community meetings and raise awareness of the importance of raui. The leaders of other islands responded positively to the message about raui. Chiefs in the outer islands shared with the delegation their concerns about the delicacies that have all but disappeared and voiced their support for returning to the raui.

“We have encouraged the traditional chiefs of the pa enua to revive the raui in their own islands, just as has been done in Rarotonga and in Aitutaki,” says Noeline Browne, who acts as the raui project coordinator. “They were very receptive to our message and acknowledged that it is a practice that our forefathers have always used, nor do they feel that there is a hidden agenda as the chiefs and their people will decide for themselves which areas they want to raui.”

During their visit to Atiu, the ui ariki – high chiefs – of Atiu and one of the mataiapo tutara declared two brand new raui sites at special blessing and dedication ceremonies with the Rarotonga-based chiefs as observers. On Mitiaro, the ui ariki and people of the island have recently declared

ESCAPE • 73

a raui of their itiki (eels) in preparation for a big event in two years’ time. And in Mangaia, the recent consultations reawakened enthusiasm for raui. The Are Ariki of Mangaia has undertaken to declare some raui sites in early 2015 after they have discussed the matter with their people.

The northern islands are also on the delegation’s agenda, but budgetary and time constraints have prevented them from visiting just yet. However, a group funded by Oceans5 went to the north several years ago, and reported it was clear that raui is still being practised there.

Reminiscing Maria Henderson, the parekura of the Koutu Nui, remembers the raui as part of village life growing up in Aitutaki in the 1930s. When her church congregation would prepare to host visitors from other

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What are we doing about these riches?

If everyone looked after their own part, wouldn’t the world be a beautiful place?” islands, the chief imposed a raui on certain fish species. She remembers how integral a part of life the practice was. Today she feels passionately about reviving that ancient wisdom and lost art.

“It’s ingrained in our minds as a Christian family that in the beginning the good Lord made heaven and earth and all the riches for us,” Maria says. “What are we doing about these riches? If everyone looked

after their own part, wouldn’t the world be a beautiful place?”

Maria knows that the Cook Islands, and indeed the rest of the world, must prioritise conservation now, because soon it will be too late.

The traditional chiefs of the Cook Islands respectfully ask visitors and residents to honour the sanctity of the raui.

Appropriate signage has been put up to identify raui areas. If you have questions about the raui call the raui secretariat on 51671.

Guidelines for an enjoyable time at the beach and in the lagoon…

Coral is a living organism! It takes hundreds of years to develop a reef like ours and you can harm the reef just by standing on it; many steps may kill it.

What you can do to help…

• Make sure your gear fits properly, is comfortable and adjusted, before you go in the water. If you need to make adjustments, find a sandy area on which to stand, or swim to the shore.

•

If there is a RAUI (protected marine area) in place, please respect it and leave everything in the lagoon that belongs to it.

•

Observe animals exhibiting their natural behavior rather than stimulating them to entertain.

•

Please do not harass or touch protected species, such as turtles, giant clams and fragile corals.

•

There is no need to feed the fish. To attract them closer just bang two little stones together.

They will come.

•

Please take your rubbish with you when you leave the beach.

Thank you for looking after our lagoon.

Take nothing but memories – leave nothing but bubbles…

Photos: The Dive Centre & Jim Gariu

There are few places in the world that equal this special emerald island in the Pacific - the largest of the Cook Islands.

A place where a visit is certain to capture the heart. And upon reluctant departure, will generously add to a lifetime of good memories.

Photo: Justin Bastien

76 • ESCAPE

"

When my eyes open, there isn’t a ripple on the turquoise water. With a clearer mind, I rise slowly, again, to my feet. I grab my paddle and take a few hard strokes toward the little island, or motu, in the distance. I ponder for a moment, the expanding possibilities for both relaxation and exercise now available on Rarotonga. On this day, I will choose more than one -beginning with this stand-up paddleboard.

"

Relax

Retreat

Revitalise Story: Jess Cramp

ESCAPE • 77

It’s 11am on a Tuesday and I am supine, sunkissed and smiling. With the exception of my fingertips lightly tapping the surface of the water, I lay motionless, focused only on the sound of the waves breaking outside the reef.

T

he gentle current from the incoming tide is a quiet reminder that the lagoon and big ocean are connected - even though from my floating, balanced position on that lagoon right now, it is difficult to imagine.

78 • ESCAPE

Photo: Justin Bastien

When my eyes open, there isn’t a ripple on the turquoise water. With a clearer mind, I rise slowly, again, to my feet. I grab my paddle and take a few hard strokes toward the little island, or motu, in the distance. I ponder for a moment, the expanding possibilities for both relaxation and exercise now available on Rarotonga. On this day, I will choose more than one -beginning with this stand-up paddleboard.

Stand-up paddleboards, or SUPs, are still a fairly new sight on Raro. Although for centuries various cultures have used oars, poles, boards and boats to propel themselves through water while

standing, it seems our modern form of stand-up paddleboarding – SUPing came from Hawaii. Inspired by an iconic video of Hawaiian surfing legend Duke Kahanamoku riding an Australian surf ski, Hawaiian surfers Laird Hamilton and Dave Kalama took it to new levels by riding big waves on SUPs, which gained a ton of media attention. They revolutionized the design and versatility of the SUP and right around the year 2005, the sport’s popularity exploded.

It was also in Hawaii that SUPing in Rarotonga would get a boost. Charlotte Piho, the Cook Islands’ first certified SUPYoga instructor, was on holiday in Hawaii

The when she first saw people paddling and riding waves on SUPs. She was enamored.

“I thought it was such a beautiful sport, such an island sport,” said Charlotte, who was living in Australia at the time. She was determined to combine her love for the water with her passion to show people where she came from, the Cook Islands.

Paddleboarding seemed the perfect fit. “It was my destiny,” she exclaimed.

Since then, she racked up the necessary credentials and developed a series of retreats she has termed “Workout on Water.” During the retreats on Rarotonga and Aitutaki, she teaches yoga on standup paddleboards and mixes in the culture of the islands she calls home. “I can’t wait to try it,” I thought. Now a certified master SUP-Yoga trainer, she has built a local and international following for her unique retreats in paradise. “SUP-Yoga maximizes your core workout,” she said. “It’s a bit more like Pilates because you have to use your core to stay on the board.”

Charlotte is quick to discern, however, that SUP-Yoga isn’t all about strength and balance of your body. “Yoga is really about trying to build a strong mind.”

She admits that she can only meditate properly on a paddleboard and that while some folks feel more comfortable practicing yoga on land, the Cooks are the perfect place to give yoga on water a go. “I’ve paddled all over the world and still, the Cook Islands are the best place.

It’s clean, it’s calm and it’s beautiful.” She continued, “Being on the board is quite a spiritual experience. You look up and see all the mountains, you are on the ocean and the whole thing just makes you really happy.” With my view of the island right now, I’d have to agree.

Spa

As I paddle through the lagoon in Titikaveka, I see a small family laughing while testing their paddleboard balance in the shallows. It appears that SUPing makes them happy too. Not part of a class, this family rented their boards from Charlie’s Café and Beach Rentals nearby, one of the newer establishments capitalizing on the growing demand for SUPs on the island.

Three years ago, stand-up paddleboarding was the fastest growing sport on the planet. Last year, it remained at the top of the charts and for good reason, just about anyone can do it. SUPs are extremely versatile. You can paddle past the outer reef with a mask and snorkel.

You can ride waves. You can workout or leisurely paddle on the lagoon with friends.

Here on Rarotonga, you can practice yoga on the boards and even take dogs for a ride. SUPing, like paddling in a canoe, allows for a different perspective on the beauty of these islands.

Further south near Muri, a few kite surfers come into view. “I’m going to catch

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ESCAPE • 79

you,” I mumble to myself, determined to sprint the final 500 meters to the motu, signaling the end of my workout. I bend my knees a bit more, spread my toes and grip the board hard. With each stroke, the board planes better than the last. As I pick up speed, a few strokes feel great, a few not quite right at this pace. I wonder why it seems difficult to stay in a straight line. “Is there a current? Am I leaning to one side?”

My confidence drops a smidge and I decide that after this paddle, it’s time to go see Brynn.

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80 • ESCAPE

Brynn Acheson is a SUP instructor, a Pilates instructor, a kitesurfing instructor, and fitness coach extraordinaire. She is the co-owner of KiteSUP Cook Islands and she is going to fix my technique, of this I am certain. I end my paddle just in front of Koka Lagoon Cruises where KiteSUP hires boards and windsurfers. Brynn and her partner Ina are always working so I am surprised when I don’t find her; perhaps she could be teaching a lesson or guiding a tour on boards around the Muri lagoon.

I waddle up to their shop on the main road in Muri, my board in tow, and then it dawns on me that it’s late in the day and most shops are closed. Realizing I’ve still got a solid paddle back to my house in Vaimaanga, I stop on the beach for a quick stretch. If I was really tough, I might continue my paddling tour by jumping onto one of Ariki Holidays’ new night SUP excursions down in Avana. Jules & KT’s new venture includes a LED lighting system on the bottom of the paddleboards, revealing the wonders of the lagoon’s nightlife. It is said to be a relaxing night on the lagoon and easy enough for kids, but it will have to wait for another evening as my tired body begs me to get home.

On the beach, I muster a few sun salutations - the motions lengthening tight muscles on my back, legs and neck. My

body is begging for a session on the yoga mat after this colossal paddle. Luckily, there are now a number of different yoga styles taught on Raro. Depending on how I feel in the morning, I have the option of a gentle or more rigorous practice.

Before I knew much about yoga, I envisioned it as something a group of folks, unlike me, would do in a meadow or on a mountaintop, chanting and breathing heavily.

It was certainly not for me or anyone who didn’t fit the stereotype I had built in my mind. I was, of course, so wrong.

Yoga practice was brought to the Western world by Indian gurus, but its origin predates written history in Hindu and Buddhist cultures. Since the 1980s, its popularity as a universal form of physical, mental and spiritual exercise has continued to grow. A style and level of yoga exists for nearly everyone and like most brilliant discoveries, its emergence on Rarotonga came from an unexpected place - a Catholic church.

Father Tony from St. Mary’s Catholic Church in Arorangi practiced yoga religiously. Members of the church, curious about what he was doing, asked Father Tony to teach them. Stating that he was not a yoga instructor, he instead invited the inquisitive few to practice Ashtanga yoga with him at the church.

In 2003, Victoria Dearlove attended one of his ‘classes’. She was a city girl from New Zealand who had never done yoga and, she hated it. “I couldn’t move!” she said, remembering that first class. But something in her wanted to stick with it. Ashtanga yoga is described as quite dynamic, requiring a focus on the same series of poses, which at a glance seems to focus only on the strength and flexibility aspects of yoga.

Intent on improving her practice, Victoria and a few others got together more frequently in the basement of the church.

In time, Victoria became quite attached to her practice.

She became the first certified yoga instructor on Rarotonga. She invites international guest teachers to host yoga workshops here and even spent time in India last year to further her studies.

Victoria jokes that due to the physicality of Ashtanga, it seems to appeal to “type A” personalities. “People go into it for the physical aspects, but then they appreciate the other benefits.” But what is made clear in her description is that anyone can have a go. She most certainly did not have the background she thought was necessary to practice, let alone teach yoga.

Something I find a refreshingly common theme amongst yoga teachers on Raro is that there is no “better” style of yoga.

Each encourages newcomers of every shape and size. And each instructor brings their unique personality and history to their teaching style. An example of which, I learned through my first class with another of Rarotonga’s yoga instructors - Maya Carroll, or Yogi Maya, as she is affectionately known as on the island.

ESCAPE • 81

Like Victoria, Maya was a city girl who came to yoga as a bit of an accident. Her first class was in high school and when it finished she thought “Where has this been all my life!?” But it wasn’t until she was a full time marketing professional in Chicago that she realized her stress levels were getting the better of her. “Something had to change” she said.

Maya began practicing yoga more often as a way to let go of stress and eventually that meant letting go of her full time job and life in the States as well. While she teaches private, therapeutic lessons, as well as Power Vinyasa to the sounds of sweat inducing beats, most of her classes focus on a slower, gentler yoga she calls “Mindful Vinyasa.” She grounds her students in the fundamentals of the poses and weaves in philosophy to help them let go of stress and to relax.

Excited by the options available to improve my mind and body in this environment, I turn the board sharply toward the setting sun, take a few slow, deep breaths and begin the long paddle home.

Our grateful thanks to Charlotte Piho, Maya Carroll, Julian Zeman and Justin Bastien for the photos.

82 • ESCAPE

Something I find a refreshingly common theme amongst yoga teachers on Raro is that there is no “better” style of yoga. Each encourages newcomers of every shape and size.

And each instructor brings their unique personality and history to their teaching style

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n this year of Cook Islands celebrations, it’s great to see products like Te Tika Skincare which are bringing time-honoured Cook Islands traditions into the modern era. CITC Pharmacist Shannon Saunders, who sells the skincare range and uses it herself, says “I love Te Tika because it works and TeTika has such a great story, everyone falls in love with it”.

In 2003, Cook Islander Dr Graham Matheson was given permission by the Koutu Nui (Cook Islands' elders) to investigate the scientific properties of some traditional medicinal plants. With assistance from the UNSW (Australia) a decade of research led to some amazing skin and bone regeneration results, a PhD, and the patenting of BioActive Cook Islands oils.

The president of the Koutu Nui at that time, the late Te Tika Mataiapo Dorice Reid, was fully supportive of this fusion of Maori medicine and science. For her, and for Matheson, that was the most exciting part of the project – its affirmation that today’s

extracts, antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and natural actives to create maximum skin benefits.

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ESCAPE • 83

A Time for

turtles ON PALMERSTON ISLAND

Story: Jess Cramp Photos: Tina Weier, Noel Bartley & Sandra Paterson, Aerial photo: Ewan smith

84 • ESCAPE

"T

HERE’S SOMETHING…really big in the water,” came an excited call from one of our team members. Running to the back of the boat, I saw her, our symbol of safe passage. Contrasting with the deep blue of the surrounding sea, the whale’s belly appeared to radiate ultraviolet light as she rolled playfully, just off the stern of our overloaded charter vessel.

We carried a month’s supplies and a team of seven, as part of a research expedition to study sea turtles with Rarotonga-based Pacific Islands Conservation Initiative (PICI). We could hardly wait to meet our unique Polynesian hosts and explore the vast turquoise lagoon of our remote destination.

We were sailing to Palmerston Island, the only true atoll in the southern Cook Islands. It lays approximately 500km northwest of Rarotonga and is sparsely populated; only 30-50 residents are on the island at any given time. With less than one square mile of total landmass,

We were sailing to Palmerston Island, the only true atoll in the southern Cook Islands.

It lays approximately 500km northwest of Rarotonga and is sparsely populated; only 30-50 residents are on the island at any given time. there is no runway. There are also no stores, eateries, hotels, or hospitals. The island hadn’t even seen a supply ship in over ten months and because of limited communication, we weren’t even sure they knew of our imminent arrival.

But at dusk, almost three days after leaving Rarotonga, we anchored. It was

too late to navigate a dinghy through the narrow passage in the reef to the islets—or motu—to get acquainted with our home for the next four weeks. Papa’a, or folks of European descent, have been welcomed on passing boats for over a century, but it’s uncommon for teams to stay for long periods, as we planned.

We had the islanders’ special permission, along with research permits, a little grant funding, transportation, a keen sense of adventure, and most importantly, time.

First discovered by Captain James Cook in 1774 on a passing voyage, the island was named after Lord Palmerston. Almost a century later, in 1863, an English barrel maker and ship’s carpenter named William Masters settled on Palmerston with his two Polynesian wives. After adding a third wife to the mix, three distinct Marsters (as the name is now spelled) family lines were born, creating governance as colorful as their history. And because of the unique settlement by William Marsters, the first language of the island is English, rather than Cook Islands Maori.

ESCAPE • 85

I struggled to keep my excitement at bay as night quickly fell. The scenery was exactly what I’d imagined of a remote atoll in the South Pacific, with the moonlit glow of breaking waves misting silhouettes of densely packed palm trees on a flat horizon. There were no car headlights. No signs, streetlights, or flickers from airplane wings soaring above. Just a blanket of stars, a few planets, and the single light from our mast swaying back and forth with the gentle rocking of the sea.

After months of planning and anticipation, we had arrived. I couldn’t wait to get ashore and settle in.

The bell began to ring in rapid succession, marking the day’s first church service.

Mama Aka, one of the few elderly women on Palmerston, led the congregation into a polyphonic hymn, sung in Cook Islands Maori. Her voice was indistinguishable as it traveled through the pre-dawn light and ricocheted around the rusty, corrugated steel walls of our island abode: an open room with four beds and a concrete floor, which housed our seven-person research team and all of our supplies.

86 • ESCAPE

I gradually awoke, fumbled for the opening in my mosquito net, and tiptoed my way past friends who managed to sleep through the joyous crescendo of the local men singing “heyyyyy-yah-HEY!” It was Wednesday, day 10 of 30. The local islanders were devout Christians.

Church services also happened on Friday mornings and three times on Sunday, a day of strictly enforced quietude where no working, playing, or even swimming

With the morning sun beginning to cast pink blankets over the meticulously raked, white sand that surrounded us, the gentle humming of the generator could be heard in the distance. was allowed. Our team learned to really love Sundays. We vowed to try to keep the tradition when we returned to our busy lives.

It had rained hard last night and I wondered how Tina, a photographer and coral reef biologist, fared in her hammock under the ramshackle gazebo near the water. She wanted the quintessential rustic island experience and chose to sleep outside. I was ready for breakfast.

Crossing the wet, cardboard footpath which connected our sleeping quarters to the kitchen, through the remains of the far wall I saw our Chief Scientist sitting quietly near a coconut palm, the steam from his instant coffee getting lost in his long, grey beard. He was always the first one up.

With the morning sun beginning to cast pink blankets over the meticulously raked, white sand that surrounded us, the gentle humming of the generator could be heard in the distance. The island had a limited diesel supply and could only afford power for 6-10 hours per day. Cargo ship delays are not uncommon in the outer islands of the Cooks and how well the locals adapted surprised me. They planned well, rationed everything, and shared with each other without question, even chores.

We had the opportunity to rebuild the school roof one day during an island “working bee” where everyone on the

island participated—everyone. Assisting your neighbors on Palmerston wasn’t a subtle suggestion or the mark of an overly kind person; it was a way of life.

Despite cargo delays, no one seemed too bothered about dwindling food supplies, they would never starve with a lagoon full of fish and coconuts in the trees. In fact, we were often greeted with fresh donuts and cakes from our generous neighbors.

Diesel was the main worry for more than one good reason. Before supply ships were scheduled to arrive, most freezers were stacked with tightly wrapped fillets of parrotfish, the community’s primary export. The power supply was just enough to keep fillets frozen if doors were kept tightly shut during off hours. As razor blades dulled and beards grew, life continued at the island’s meaningful pace.

There was no choice but to relax and adapt to the idiosyncrasies of life on this remote atoll.

The rising sun and roosters caused the rest of the group to stir. With our daily routine now fairly well defined, we inhaled our breakfast, slathered on sunscreen, and readied the research gear for another day searching for sea turtles under the warm South Pacific sun.

We walked barefoot down the sand road to the lagoon and in a human chain, loaded our gear. We pushed off while the

ESCAPE • 87

sun was still low so that David, one of our local research assistants, could spot the numerous, expansive coral heads that peppered all 7km across the lagoon. In a borrowed aluminum boat, we wanted to take every precaution not to run it aground. A few coconuts bobbed along in our wake. The color of the lagoon changed from turquoise to violet-blue as we passed through deeper water.

“Turtle!” yelled Jason, our bearded Kiwi captain who took a month-long vacation from his teaching duties to experience life on this remote atoll, researching sea turtles. He quickly put the engine at idle, and as quietly as possible we floated on the glassy lagoon; equal parts savoring the tranquility of the moment and observing the creature, whose head was poking out for a breath.

We sputtered slowly toward Tom’s motu, whose uninhabited, white sandy beaches were the definition of desert island dreams. Today, we would be surveying the paradisiacal island for sea turtle tracks and signs of nesting. If any nests were found, we’d mark them with a GPS, a tree branch, and a piece of duct tape from the roll which now lived around my bicep. The oldest ones would be excavated to help us calculate hatchling (baby turtle) success rates.

The turtle work was repetitive and tiring, but rewarding. We spent the mornings circumnavigating motu and digging up nests, sometimes until our fingernails bled; the entire time working alongside research assistants from the island who were eager to share their local knowledge.

88 • ESCAPE

Afternoons were much more enjoyable to me, we snorkeled large sections of the lagoon searching for sea turtles, identifying various habitats and of course, getting excited by the curious sharks. When it came time to rest, we would excitedly wade in the crystalclear shallows of the lagoon or eat lunch under the shade of a pandanus tree, never forgetting how lucky we were to be here. Not only because were felt as if we’d arrived in paradise and hit the pause button on the “real world”, but because we were welcomed into a tight-knit community—something that needed to be experienced to be fully understood and appreciated.

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ESCAPE • 89

Big, blue, warm, and full of harmless life, the lagoon is not only disarmingly beautiful, but it’s also an invaluable asset for the Aitutaki community.

Story: Rachel Reeves Photos: Noel Bartley

blue

THE BIG

LAGOON

M

y cousin is spellbound, his eyes fixed on the turquoise lagoon spreading from beneath our little boat, his mouth open in awe.

90 • ESCAPE

“This is unreal,” he says, with intentional stress on the final syllable. He saw this lagoon once, when he was a child, but hazy memories left him ill prepared for its electrifying beauty.

This lagoon has a reputation for being one of the loveliest in the Pacific. Even on off days, during rare periods of overcast skies, the water retains a strikingly vivid colour.

“No artist’s palette could ever conceive of a more perfect, more luminescent turquoise than that of the lagoon of Aitutaki, arguably the most beautiful in

the world,” Steve Davey writes in his travel anthology entitled Unforgettable Places to See Before You Die. The lagoon covers nearly 70 kilometres of area, and in its centre sits Aitutaki – an atoll except for one volcanic mountain, rumoured in legend to have been stolen from Rarotonga by Aitutaki’s early warriors. A coral reef encircles the entire Aitutaki lagoon, keeping the ocean at bay and protecting the main island and 15 other motu, the local word denoting tiny, flat, uninhabited atolls.

Without a doubt, Aitutaki’s sprawling lagoon is its foremost tourist attraction. Big, blue, warm, and full of harmless life, the lagoon is not only disarmingly beautiful, but it’s also an invaluable asset for the Aitutaki community. Local people creatively maximise its tourism potential.

Signs near the airport advertise day tours, fishing trips, kiteboarding lessons, snorkeling charters, and bonefishing guides.

There are SCUBA dives, spearfishing excursions, wakeboarding trips, boats for hire, water taxis.

For a waterbaby, Aitutaki is the prototypical playground. Trust me on this one. Through a SCUBA mask I ogled at fleshy, blue-lipped clams as big as truck tyres. I went wakeboarding behind a speedboat; lunched on a buffet of fresh fish and fruit aboard a double-hulled canoe; paddled in a six-man canoe against the backdrop of a setting sun; and glided across the lagoon’s placid surface on a stand-up paddleboard.

I watched kitesurfers hit ramps in high winds and anglers creep up on the elusive bonefish. Many an afternoon I spent splayed out on a sandbar, half-submerged in water clear as glass and warm as a bath. I had my passport stamped at One Foot Island and spent hours reading on islands inhabited by palm trees and little else. I never tired of playing in this vast marine park.

There are, of course, things to do on Aitutaki itself – cultural tours, evening crab hunts by the light of a bright moon, Sunday morning services at the Cook Islands Christian Church, farmers’ markets, dance and drum shows.

For bookworms, there are hammocks strung between two coconut trees. For the indulgent traveler, there are seaside bars serving cocktails, fresh fish, and breadfruit chips. For the adventurous, there are undeveloped atolls, home to a cluster of palms and brilliantly white sand, free of footprints, fringed by the lagoon.

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www.bishopscruises.com ESCAPE • 91

This is the stuff of fantasy, the picture of a holiday destination conjured by anyone who’s been overwhelmed by traffic or paperwork or monotony, and dreamt of escape.

The landscape hearkens back to a Polynesia of old. This is the Rarotonga of yesteryear – some roads are charmingly unpaved, the airport is an airy, one-room building, and signs warn us to SLOW DOWN as we proceed at less than 20 km/ hr. People wave, cheerful and genuine, happily welcoming us onto their island. My cousin wonders aloud whether they might be waving at someone else, or because we’re driving a car that belongs to our hotel manager. “Or are they really just that friendly?” he muses. Then, he answers his own question: “Wow.” This air is fragrant and the sky, seamlessly blue. Everywhere there is greenery,

punctuated only by the vivid pinks, reds, and purples of frangipani, hibiscus, and bougainvillea. The main road is lined with homes, their front yards immaculately raked and planted with flowering trees that cast shade onto well-maintained, white graves. As in Rarotonga, the local people bury their relatives in the yard – a solution to the problem of limited cemetery land, and a means of keeping ancestral spirits near.

Local homes are unpretentious, with slatted louvers for windows and pareu fabric standing in for doors. Across verandahs, sheets and clothing line-dry in the gentle breeze. There are a substantial number of empty homes scattered about.

For decades the Cook Islands has grappled with the challenge of mass outward migration, but Aitutaki’s depopulation in particular accelerated in 2010, when Cyclone Pat devastated scores of homes.

Now, nature has grown around those concrete building frames whose occupants have departed. Green vines coil themselves around deserted manmade structures, as if to reclaim them.

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92 • ESCAPE

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As we drive, the paved road ends and a sandy path begins, leading into a thick jungle that tumbles into an ever-present lagoon.

Green presses against our car – the large leaves of purau (yellow hibiscus) trees and the wispy tentacles of toa (ironwood). Banana trees spring like fountains from the earth.

It is increasingly common to meet travelers who reserve most of their time in the Cook Islands for Aitutaki, and use Rarotonga as a point of transit rather than a destination.

One couple I met on Aitutaki was visiting for 13 nights. “We were a bit nervous that would be too many nights and we’d run

out of things to do,” said an English fellow named Richard, who was preparing to enjoy the final day of his honeymoon. “But we haven’t been bored. Not at all, have we?” he said, turning to his bride, who offered an enthusiastic shake of her head.

Next to Rarotonga, Aitutaki is the most visited of the Cook Islands. But while it lags behind Rarotonga in terms of tourist numbers, its international profile has always rivaled the capital island’s. Indeed, Aitutaki has a unique modern history.

For one thing, it was the first of the Cook Islands exposed to Christianity. Willingly, the people of Aitutaki embraced the gospel introduced in 1821 by John Williams of the London Missionary Society (LMS), who brought with him two Tahitian converts named Papeiha and Vahapata. They remained on Aitutaki even after their mentor departed, and within the decade, Aitutaki and the other Cook Islands had adopted the LMS religion.

Then, a century later, the island was again a point of intersection between the Cook Islands and the rest of the world. During World War II, American soldiers chose Aitutaki to be a South Pacific outpost, as it was strategically located between the United States and Japan. They arrived

ESCAPE • 93

Tony Wheeler, who co-founded the travel guide Lonely Planet, called Aitutaki the world’s most beautiful island. British news agency Reuters even named it one of the 10 best places to survive a breakup or divorce.

As Aitutaki’s profile expands, its tourism industry becomes more fully developed – not as an offshoot of Rarotonga’s, but in its own right. The main island has several resorts, one of them fivestar, and the only over-water bungalows in the Cook Islands.

Customer service is surprisingly attentive.

The perfect lagoon-side setting for breakfast, Some shops are even open on Sundays – a rare circumstance in much of the post-missionary South Pacific.

Still, this concerns some locals, and particularly those who meet unfailingly every Sunday near the runway to protect the operation of commercial flights on the Sabbath. They are living proof that despite Aitutaki’s expanding tourism infrastructure, the island retains old-school airs. They are proof that Aitutaki still belongs to Aitutaki, to Polynesia, to what Steve Davey wholeheartedly believes is the most beautiful lagoon in the world.

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amanu Beach Welcome to your own island paradise!

A white sand beach, a turquoise lagoon, a choice of accommodation styles & dining options.

Two swimming pools, kayaks, masks & snorkels, bicycles, hammocks & daybeds.

Ph. (682) 31810 Fax. (682) 31816 reservations@tamanubeach.com AitutAki • Cook islAnds

www.tamanubeach.com

Coral Route TEAL'S

Stopover at Aitutaki Aitutaki was heaven on earth for passengers from Solent flying boats

96 • ESCAPE

Story: Jason Brown

Flying 33,000 feet above sea level, as is normal these days, it’s a bit hard to spot sharks, especially when cloud covers the Pacific Ocean far below.

I

magine flying at less than 7,000 feet, for hours on end, wave tops thrillingly close underneath, beams of glowing sunlight lancing down from the heavens through gaps in the clouds overhead.

“Flying over the boundless blue Pacific in the 1950s still had a touch of daring, swashbuckling allure, especially when you were low enough to see the sharks,” says enthusiast Stewart Haynes. “Pilots were demigods in RayBans. Hostesses were angels in nifty uniforms,” he says.

TEAL being Tasman Empire Airways Limited, was the forerunner to Air New

Zealand and a trademark from a colonial era which focused towards Australia and the northern hemisphere, rather than islands in the south. Back then, bemused passengers were advised to bring a change for swimming, unusual advice even then.

TEAL themery can still be found at the Flying Boat Beach Bar & Grill at the Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa and at the TEAL Lodge located on the old flying boat islet of Akaiami. “The lodge has been rebuilt on the exact spot where the original terminal stood,” says lodge host Tearuru Carl Marsters.

“Here the well-to-do of the fifties, including movie stars John Wayne, Cary Grant and the like, stopped for a few hours, or even overnight, while the planes were serviced or waiting for weather to clear.”

Bare backed labourers wrestled 44 gallon drums down a stone jetty, remnants of which were rebuilt by the lodge and can still be seen today. Passengers would swim in warm lagoon waters around the grandly

ESCAPE • 97

DIVE AITUTAKI

M. (682) 53919 | P. (682) 31537 bubblesbelow@aitutaki.net.ck | www.diveaitutaki.com

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From automatic fullyscooters to , choose loaded cars suit your a vehicle to eeds l a individu n rge la r u o from fleet…

Our well-maintained and modern fleet includes Small 4 door hatchback cars | 8 seater MPV’s 15 seater vans | Automatic scooters

Phone: (682) 31379 | Email: fishing@aitutaki.net.ck www.popoaraoceanbreeze.com WATER TAXI • WHALE WATCHING • KITE BOARDING • TUBE RIDES • WATER SKIING

D WIL WEBOTAT& CHARTERS For an awesome holiday experience!

P: 31651 or 31657 M: 56558 or 75980 E: wetnwild@oyster.net.ck www.wetnwild-aitutaki.com

SNORKELING • SITE SEEING • SPEAR FISHING • WAKE BOARDING • GAME FISHING

98 • ESCAPE

named terminal building, shower outdoors under the coconut palms and eat lunches of crisply cut sandwiches and fresh tropical fruit. In other words, passengers on TEAL’s Short Solent flying boats had a front row pew in the cathedral of nature — filled with celestial glories and earthly delights.

“The Solent ambled along un-pressurised at about 220 knots - 400 kilometres per hour,” says Haynes. “Human fascination for flight was at an all time high in the forties and fifties. Travellers who could afford luxury air travel were to be envied and admired. The world seemed enormous, fragile, newly reborn after the war and flying was a wonder,” says Haynes, an unusualy poetic chronicler for a Kiwi. “Passengers were always treated to fabulous scenery as the maximum cruising height was only 3000 metres and the pilot often dipped well below this restriction to take full advantage of the view below.”

Starting in 1952, TEAL flew the Short Solents on the Coral Route until September 1960. When flying boat services were finally stopped, the coral route was the last of its kind in the world’s new jet age.

Airfare for the coral route was about 30 pounds, six times the average wage. About NZ$3,500 or US$2,500 in today’s money.

A few residents flew from the islands to New Zealand. That was even more expensive. “Carrying about 45 passengers, the aircraft with luxurious two deck surroundings were more like high-class restaurants, complete with silver service, tables with linen tablecloths and powder rooms,” says Haynes. “An onboard chef cooked meals to order.”

Coral Route flights were the domain of the wealthy, including rich tourists from the United States and Europe and the occasional movie star, he says. “Flying

“Pilots were demigods in RayBans. Hostesses were angels in nifty uniforms,” was seen to be very glamorous back in the 1950's. To add to the occasion passengers dressed in their finery with women in their hats and furs, men in suits and neckties. On rare occasions, when children accompanied their parents, they wore their Sunday best.”

AITUTAKI LAGOON RESORT & SPA • COOK ISLANDS

To Aitutaki with Love!

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Our accommodation was the best we have ever had in every aspect.

Thank you for everything.”

Love, Kevin & Tammy

The most important ingredients for your summer honeymoon, wedding, milestone birthday or anniversary celebration? LOVE + LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION! 5-star adults-only Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa offers the world’s best lagoon views, exclusive Overwater Bungalows and unique private island location with just the right balance of seclusion and proximity to all Aitutaki attractions and adventures. Multi-million dollar makeover! Make your treasured memories together at The Most Romantic Place on Earth, Aitutaki!

EMAIL US NOW at info@aitutakilagoonresort.com or info@rarotongan.co.ck for your amazing FREE NIGHT STAY5/PAY4 deal at our sister resorts: • Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa (5 star Adults-only)

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• The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa (Iconic 4 star Full-service) ESCAPE • 99

“Flying was seen to be very glamorous back in the 1950's. To add to the occasion passengers dressed in their finery with women in their hats and furs, men in suits and neckties. On rare occasions, when children accompanied their parents, they wore their Sunday best.”

Haynes and many others have described Aitutaki as being the most romantic spot in the South Pacific. So what makes it so adorable?

Today, most visitors to the Cooks arrive via Rarotonga on the TEAL successor, Air New Zealand. Aitutaki is still superlative, a breathtaking lagoon arrangement of tropical turquoise and topaz, fringed with white breakers and moistened with thousands of green swaying palms. No sharks in the lagoon, but, if you watch closely as you come into land at Aitutaki on Air Rarotonga, you should just catch a glimpse of the little islet of Akaiami, a legendary location of the south seas.

When flying was smokin’ Ciggies were OK, but no pipes or cigars aboard your fifties flying boat “Welcome to TEAL service. We look forward to having you with us. Your comfort and convenience are our business. We believe in the finer points that make good service excellent.”

Much of the language in Trans Empire Airways Ltd pamphlet sounds surprisingly familiar. Some doesn’t.

“This pamphlet,” explains TEAL, “is designed to provide answers to questions about TEAL travel.”

Explaining what a pamphlet is for seems charmingly old world in today‘s multimedia blizzard. Other hints include the careful way words like “aircraft” and “plastic” are used, revealing the exotic rarities both items were just half a century ago.

“Cigarettes only” means no smoking pipes or cigars onboard. Cultural motifs used in the pamphlet bear small resemblance to anything we would recognise today. This is before the plastic tiki of Air New Zealand fame during the seventies and eighties. Boarding procedures, often slept through, had to be spelt out. Post-war air tourism, after all, was still dewy fresh, a new frontier.

Welcome aboard, indeed, to a peek back into another era of aviation, with a selection of the finest TEAL pamphlet moments…

Meals and refreshments In flight, meals are served with the compliments of TEAL. Drinks, light refreshments, cigarettes and souvenirs are also available. Upon request before the flight, any special infant foods required will be provided. Magazines, games, children’s toys and a hundred and one other items from safety pins to writing paper are also carried. There are wash room facilities on TEAL aircraft and spacious interiors provide plenty of room to walk about and talk with your friends.

Seating Seats on TEAL aircraft are reclining, rubber-foam armchairs. Smoking (cigarettes only) is normally permitted in all cabins.

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Tipping Gratuities are not required. We’re glad to be of service.

Baggage Free allowances are: First Class - 66 lbs. for adults and children paying half fare.

Tourist class - 44 lbs. For adults and children paying half fare. Don’t worry about carrying suitcases - we do the lifting.

Baggage and clothing hints For swimming in tropical waters, bathing shoes are often required: many travellers carry a pair of light sandals to use as beach shoes, bathing shoes and slippers.

Brushes, shoe trees, coat hangers, bottles. Warm dressing gowns (light, uncrushable gowns save space, weight and ironing). Leather containers for toilet gear.

Tropical travelling In tropical climates, easily washable frocks are the best. Seersucker and nylon are particularly suitable. When arranging male wardrobes, remember that closely woven gaberdine is not cool and that on many Pacific Islands there are no dry-cleaning facilities. It is always wise to select dual-purpose garments.

TEAL Coral Route passengers When flying over the Coral Route, you may wear light, completely informal clothes. Prior to take-off the temperature of aircraft cabins is high, falling rapidly immediately you are airborne.

If you are travelling on a TEAL aircraft calling at Aitutaki (Cook Islands) you should remember that through passengers’ baggage is not available at this stopping point. Soap and towels are provided at the TEAL rest house but we suggest you carry the following in your overnight bag: Toilet gear. Change of clothing (if likely to be required).

Bathing suit. Beach towel. Sun glasses.

Bathing shoes.

Luxurious Dining

with Pacific Resort Aitutaki

Rapae Bay Restaurant Creative contemporary cuisine with an island flavour. Regular live entertainment.

Island Night on Wednesday. Casual diners welcome. Bookings essential.

Experience it for yourself!

www.pacificresort.com |

Your unique opportunity to interact and discover Aitutaki’s ancient culture, art, legends and the traditional ways of our ancestors. Help prepare a traditional lunch, cooked in an umu at our Cultural Village.

Bookings essential Monday, Wednesday & Friday from 9am

+682 31 720

s ’ o n i R

LS

NTA E R & L E MOT

P: 31757 or 50877 • E: culture@aitutaki.net.ck

www.aitutakiculturetour.com

t e r c e S e h T Garden

AITUTAKI

A journey of discovery and delight! Enjoy the sights and scents of exotic flowering trees, bushes and vines from throughout the tropical regions of the world.

Guided tours last approx 2.5 hours. Daily 9am to 2pm.

Owner and creator Bill Tschan will pick you up. ph: 31010 • mb: 57517 tarai@aitutaki.net.ck

WHITE SAND BEACH • SEA VIEWS • SPECTACULAR SUNSETS Beachfront or Garden Bungalows with kitchens, en-suite bathrooms, daily servicing and some with private balconies. Plus the largest fleet of rental vehicles on the island, at competitive rates. Airport pick-up service. Rino’s will add a personal touch to your vacation!

P: (682) 31 197 | M: (682) 55 839 | Email: rinos@aitutaki.net.ck

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Neil Mitchell’s

Aitutaki Scuba Scuba & Snorkel Tours

30 years of diving Aitutaki guarantees you the best dives • PADI Instructor #452677 • NAUI Instructor #8812

Ph: (682) 31703 or 31103 Mob: (682) 56103 Email: scuba@aitutaki.net.ck

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Escape Cook Islands

2016 Calendar lendar

nds Ca Cook Isla 2016 102 • ESCAPE

The Escape Magazine 2016 Calendar features the very best of Cook Islands images captured by our photographers during the past year. Each calendar is individually shrinkwrapped and has a stiffening board plus envelope for ease of mailing. From most stores and souvenir outlets on Rarotonga and Aitutaki. $15.90

l a r u m A

FOR OUR STAFF A

t the beginning of 2014, year 11 students of Nukutere College in Rarotonga hatched a plan to present the schools staff with a mural at the end of year. The concept was the idea of Reynold Akaruru and during the following months he, together with several other students, worked in secret to achieve that goal.

The mural depicts the Principal and Deputy Principal on 2 vaka (canoes) guiding the school. The stars symbolize the teachers at the college. The female face symbolizes the Catholic – Christian- Special character of the college. And the central section represents the boys of the college and all that happens there.

Year 11 students Reynold Akaruru, Jonathan Samuela, Jayde Areai, Rino Rimatuu and Naboua Taoro presented to a very surprised Principal, George Rasmussen and elated staff members, this magnificent work of art at the college’s farewell, end of year dinner.

It will go on display in a new school building sometime in 2015.

Escape Magazine, together with Kikau Hut Restaurant donates $250 to schools in a joint sponsorship to encourage students to showcase something special that they have created, be it art, poetry, writing or telling of a legend. If your school is interested in participating in this project contact Cathy Simkin at Kikau Hut Restaurant (tel 26860) or Noel Bartley at Escape Magazine (tel 23449).

Students Reynold Akaruru & Jonathan Samuela

R E S TA U R A N T • Fully licensed • Open 7 nights for dinner from 6pm • Gluten free, vegetarian & children catered for

• Live music some nights • Reservations appreciated • Transfers by arrangement • Seafood platter for one – a menu favourite

Kevin, Cathy & staff welcome you | Phone: +682 26860 | Email: kikauhut@oyster.net.ck Situated on the main road at Arorangi (500 mtrs from Edgewater Resort – towards town)

ESCAPE • 103

Atiu

Enua Manu Re-discovering nature and solitude on ‘the island of birds’.

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impressed with the way the island works as a community.

Most overseas visitors to Atiu lament on departure that they wish they’d organised a longer stay on this unspoiled island gem, full of captivating history, scenery and friendly people.

Reasonable fitness and covered shoes are needed for the trek through tropical forest that resembles a fantastically overgrown garden. Regarded by environmentalists as a national treasure, Anatakitaki Cave is home to the Kopeka bird, a swallow unique to Atiu, which like a bat, navigates its way in the pitch black caverns using sonar.

The towering limestone caverns contain cauliflower coral, proving that the caves were once beneath the sea, as these coral formations only occur underwater. There are huge stalactites reaching to the cavern floor and massive stalagmites sparkling as though they are embedded with millions of diamonds. The magnificence of the caverns is breathtaking.

here are few places left in the world like Atiu, an island with just over 500 people and acres and acres of untouched rainforest and coastal bush. There are no western bars (apart from the small one at Atiu Villas), bright neon lights or busy roads. For travellers searching for an island paradise, Atiu is it.

The Anatakitaki Cave walk is the perfect offering for visitors who want an unforgettable nature experience. On the day we went, we were guided by Marshall Humphreys. Married to Atiuan Jeanne, Marshall is proud of Atiu conservation and how the locals “always leave a bit for the next day, like when they go fishing and catch just enough to eat.” He’s also

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Another tour takes you to Rimarau Burial Cave that includes visits to age old marae and “walking the dramatic route taken by hundreds as they went to meet their death in ancient times.” If beaches, historic sights and panoramic scenery also appeal, opt for an island tour. It offers contrasting scenery, drives through shady roads and forest thick with ancient trees to coastal tracks and points of interest including the coral garden, sinkholes

and fabulous little beaches ideal for shell collecting or leisurely lolling in the warm, pristine sea.

George Mateariki, better known as Birdman George, takes us on his morning tour – first stop is to catch a glimpse of the endangered Kakerori bird. We are a bit startled as George begins loudly beeping his car horn as we near the nesting ground. He explains that being inquisitive birds, Kakerori are drawn to unusual noises. He calls to them, walking through the picturesque bush and making kissing noises. The birds do not disappoint, replying with their call sounds. To see Kakerori so close is a real treat, as they were once on the brink of extinction.

Along the way, George points out medicinal plants and how they are used to treat various ailments. “I love my history and everything I know about Atiu was taught to me by my grandfathers,” says George.

A fun experience is a visit to one of the legendary Atiu tumunu – ‘clubs’, where local men gather to drink homebrew and chat about island affairs, with clear rules about conduct. Often there’s a stringband for added entertainment. Visitors are always welcome to stop in, partake of a cup of the local brew and meet the locals.

“There’s money in the land,” says Mata Arai, pointing to her coffee bushes laden with ripe berries. Mata is an industrious Atiuan woman who produces the 100 percent Atiu Island Coffee using a technique she learnt from her

and the desire to preserve traditional knowledge and skills, plus creating jobs for local women. Today, Atiu Fibre Arts Studio has developed into an enterprise that produces world class textile art, drawing students for workshops on Atiu from far afield.

For travellers searching for an island paradise, Atiu is it. grandmother as a child. It’s a process all done by hand. Atiu Island Coffee can be purchased from Mata’s home, in Atiu stores, or supermarkets on Rarotonga.

connoisseurs should take Juergen’s informative tour of plantations and factory, ending with a tasting on the verandah of their home at Atiu Fibre Arts Gallery.

For someone who “never wanted to be a coffee grower” Juergen Manske produces Atiu Coffee, some of the finest coffee to be found in the region. He and artist wife, Andrea Eimke settled in Atiu some 23 years ago. Discovering acres of coffee plantations, Juergen took 20 kilos to Europe to have it checked out. The verdict – “terrific coffee,” says Juergen.

“We established that it is arabica coffee with very low caffeine content.” Coffee

The Atiu Fibre Arts Gallery is definitely on the ‘to visit’ list when on Atiu. Andrea Eimke’s exquisite technicoloured tivaivai (quilting) is displayed, along with other textile art. Completing an embroidery apprenticeship before settling on Atiu, then seeing what local women were doing “the dies were cast, I was hooked” says Andrea. And so it all started with one sewing machine, a lot of inspiration

birdman GEORGE

A unique island. A unique guide.

Let George show you the highlights of Atiu. Explore the ancient trails, discover the birds, learn the uses of many plants, visit a burial cave, verify the recovery of the near extinct Kakerori bird and picnic island-style at a secluded beach.

Atui’s most popular guide!

Phone 33623

Email: atiu@ihug.co.nz or bmateariki@gmail.com

u i t A las l i V

Atiu is an exciting eco island adventure you shouldn’t miss. Make this a prime destination or stop off on your way to, or from Aitutaki for a little extra airfare. Stay in comfort at Atiu Villas, the island’s most experienced hosts. Amenities and services include a licensed restaurant and bar, swimming pool, tennis court, tour packages, rentals and free Wi-Fi for emails.

Book online at: www.atiuvillas.com • 105 Ph. (682) 33 777 | Fax. (682) 33 775 | Email. roger@atiuvillas.com | ESCAPE www.atiu.info

A Islands Adventure Story: Noel Bartley

O

ur hostess Tevai is serving refreshments as we sit comfortably cradled in leather seats on board Air Rarotonga’s Saab 340. I hear several different languages and accents from our full flight of passengers; it sounds a bit like a mini United Nations delegation.

We are heading to a remote island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean; it’s a beautiful clear day, with just a few fluffy whites floating over an indigo blue ocean. Some of us will travel further and take in two islands over a period of five days, on what Air Rarotonga describe as their Two Island Adventure.

As we near the conclusion of our 50 minute flight, previously hushed suddenly become more animated as passengers catch their first glimpse of Aitutaki’s stunning turquoise lagoon, languid in the morning sunlight. The lagoon, dotted with its small motu’s, smiles back at them, just as it did in the photos that enticed them here, and all expectations are fulfilled.

with Air Rarotonga

We are greeted at the airport, adorned with floral ei’s and then transferred to our accommodation at Tamunu Beach Resort on the sunset side of the main island. Our garden room is inviting and comfortable.

The resort has a good location on the island and we soon discover all its amenities including a swimming pool and the restaurant, which is located near the beach. A-la-carte dining is available each day for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Sunday is reserved for a sumptuous barbeque buffet, and Sunday for an Island Night.

Shortly after lunch we are off on a tour of the island with Aitutaki Safari Tours, to get our bearings and familiarise ourselves with the island. Owner Ngaakitai Pureariki is our guide and we are quickly absorbing all the fascinating details and history of Aitutaki. A spectacular view from an elevated position on Maungapu, just 124 metres high, enables us to see most of the amazing lagoon and its fringing motu’s.

The highlight for me however is a visit to the ancient marae of Paengariki. This

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sacred place, looking a bit like a mini Stonehenge in a bush-clad valley, is the first site to be systematically excavated in the Cook Islands and our guide, a trainee archaeologist, is the driving force behind this remarkable venture.

The next morning we are off on a lagoon cruise aboard the vaka Titi-ai-Tonga. The colours in the lagoon are simply amazing.

We stop off to visit Akaiami, the old Coral Route flying boat base, before heading off to our snorkelling spot. The boat cleverly anchors in water you can stand up in, but close enough to deeper waters with coral heads, myriads of colourful fish and clams.

It’s stunningly beautiful.

We are hungry after our snorkelling, but right on cue the crew are serving a lunch of barbequed fresh fish and refreshing

a

Our South Pacific home

sprinkling of island gems on an indigo blue ocean... The Cook Islands combined make up a land area of just 240 square kilometers. They are scattered far and wide in the vast expanse of the South Pacific Ocean, covering a total area of 2.25 million square kilometers. Each of these ‘gems’ is unlike any other; all having their own special characteristics and every one offering a warm welcome to visitors.

The Southern Group Atiu See our story on page 104.

Takutea Just a few miles off the coast of Atiu lies the uninhabited island of Takutea.

It is a key breeding ground for seabirds of the Pacific, with notable populations of tavake (red tailed tropicbirds), kota’a (frigatebirds), and brown boobies.

A designated bird and wildlife sanctuary, the island is owned by the people of Atiu. Periodically, the trustees of Takutea permit visitors to go ashore.

Mauke The garden island of the Cook group, Mauke is 18 kilometres around. It is

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surrounded by makatea (fossilised coral) with a volcanic plateau in the centre. Parts of the foreshore are dotted with isolated white sandy coves and caves that one can swim in. Inland there are fresh water caves and the famous Motuanga Cave that has galleries reaching beneath the reef. The reef is so close to the foreshore that crashing white breakers are visible from most of the unsealed coral road that runs around the island. Do visit the “divided church” built where the villages of Ngatiarua and Areora meet. Shared by the two villages, it has two separate entrances and sitting areas. There are clean and comfortable places to stay in Mauke - try Ri’s Retreat or Tiare Holiday Cottages.

They can also organise cave, reef and

forest tours. Be sure to obtain a garland of the fragrant maire, a creeper that grows along the makatea. Mauke is picturesque, unhurried and tranquil – a wonderful tonic for frayed nerves!

Mitiaro Of the cluster of islands in the southern group called Nga Pu Toru, Mitiaro would be the least visited by tourists. Not because it is any less beautiful than sister islands Atiu and Mauke, but simply that it is the least known. In the centre of Mitiaro are two lakes full of itiki, freshwater eels.

Mitiaro itiki are considered a delicacy in the Cook Islands. Tilapia (bream) are also abundant in the lakes. The lakes are from time to time protected by a traditional

Left: Mauke Below: Mangaia

raui, a prohibition on all fishing to preserve stocks. At its widest point, the island is 6.4 km across and private gardens in the village are beautifully kept and neat.

Community activities include fishing, sports, handicrafts and uapou, or village singsongs. Pretty and unspoiled, life on Mitiaro is refreshingly uncomplicated.

Mangaia Imagine visiting a fairly large island where you and maybe a handful of others are the only tourists? Mangaia is an island of incredible, serene beauty – from its rugged coastline to the lush, green interior. It is peaceful beyond belief for those accustomed to the constant rush and haste of the outside world. This is a place where one can trek for miles along the coast or in the interior and not meet another soul or hear a vehicle. Nor see any dwellings, just lots of well-tended plantations of pineapples, vegetables, taro, kumara and other crops.

Deep-sea fishing excursions are available – just ask your host Jan Kristensson of Ara Moana Bungalows or Ura, who manages Babe’s Motel. They can also steer you in the right direction for guided tours that include caving, reef/lagoon walks and bush walks. Check out the market on

Friday mornings in the ‘town’ centre and the craftwork by the skilled Mangaian women. The shell necklaces and woven pandanus bags are labour intensive and sold for very reasonable prices. Mangaia is the destination for those who love the outdoors, appreciate peace and quiet and want to experience a friendly island that’s not in the least “touristy.”

Palmerston Made famous by Englishman William Marsters, who settled there in 1863 with three wives and raised a large family.

Marsters’ modern day descendents are scattered all over the world. About 60 still remain in Palmerston, which has six motu or islets in a big blue lagoon about 11 km across. The family exports fish, supplying in particular, parrot fish to Rarotonga restaurants. Palmerston hosts the occasional cruise ship and yachts frequently call in. The island also boasts one of the world’s most isolated bars, where thirsty yachties can enjoy a “cold one” and hear tales being regaled by the islanders. It is 500 km NW of Rarotonga.

See our Palmerston story on page 84.

Manuae Manuae is an uninhabited nature reserve and an important seabird and turtle breeding ground. Its two islets in a large shallow lagoon make up this incredibly beautiful island, situated about 100 km SE of Aitutaki. Many Aitutakians can claim traditional land rights to parts of Manuae.

Once inhabited by work gangs of Cook Islands men who produced copra, it is now only occasionally visited by Aitutaki fisherman for its rich fishing grounds outside and within the lagoon. It is possible to view Manuae from the air, on a flight from Atiu to Aitutaki.

Come discover the island of Mangaia with

A Unique Holiday Experience Six newly established, stylish Polynesian Villas perched on the north-western shoreline, affording stunning views of the ocean and spectacular sunsets.

Ph.(682) 29882 | villas@mangaia.net.ck | www.mangaiavillas.com

Left: Suwarrow Below: Manihiki Opposite page: Penrhyn

The Northern Group Suwarrow Suwarrow is one of the few "untouched" sanctuaries left in the world where existing endangered species can survive.

The Suwarrow National Park is the first National Park in the Cook Islands - international environmental groups recognise the group of tiny atolls as an untouched haven and breeding area for turtles, sea birds and crabs. Because of the lack of human intervention, Suwarrow is acknowledged as one of the most important sea bird breeding areas in the Pacific. A caretaker and his family live on Suwarrow during the cyclone off-season, between April and November each year.

Yachts often visit the island during these months. Suwarrow was made famous

by New Zealand hermit Tom Neale, who lived there during the early 1950’s and again in the early 1960’s. He wrote about his experiences in his book “An Island to Oneself.”

Pukapuka Lying northwest 1150 km from Rarotonga, Pukapuka is one of the most isolated islands of the Cook group. One interisland flight from Rarotonga about every six weeks and irregular shipping has kept Pukapuka one of the most

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untouched and secluded places in the Pacific. Its remoteness has also kept the traditions and culture of Pukapuka largely unchanged for centuries. Islanders speak the distinct Pukapukan language as well as Cook Islands Maori. According to legend, almost 500 years ago the Pukapuka population was almost entirely wiped out during a catastrophic storm that struck the island. Fourteen people survived, from whom Pukapukan’s today are said to descend. The late American writer Robert Dean Frisbie settled there in 1924 and immortalised Pukapuka in the books he wrote about life on the island. The now uninhabited area where he lived with his Pukapuka wife and children is one of the most beautiful – an untouched white sandy beach with palm trees reaching out to tease the clear blue lagoon.

Nassau Access to this tiny island of about 80 Pukapukans can only be gained by interisland boat. Regarded as the sister island of Pukapuka, a voyage from Rarotonga takes about three days. The islanders are adept at surviving an isolated lifestyle

that remains unchanged year after year.

Nassau was hooked up to the country’s telephone system only in 2001 and many of the people had never used a telephone before. Just 1.2 sq. km in size, where families live in kikau thatched cottages.

Manihiki The cultured black pearl capital of the Cook Islands. Quality black pearls become centrepieces for fine jewellery that are worn by women and men all over the world. In 1997, the island survived one of the worst cyclones in Cook Islands history.

It claimed 19 lives after a tidal wave swept men, women and children out into the huge, raging lagoon. Pearl farms dot this remarkable lagoon. Villagers use small outboard boats to travel between Tukao and Tauhunu – two villages on separate

Manihiki is astonishingly beautiful and those who have been fortunate enough to visit the island, have never been disappointed.

great places to stay

r

Club Raro

elax by the pool with a tropical cocktail, soak up the sun, rejuvenate your soul, and luxuriate in the warmth of a romantic evening under the stars, with exotic foods and fine wine. Whatever your Cook Islands holiday dream consists of, you can be sure there is a style of accommodation to suit your taste and attentive staff to make all those dreams come true. From deluxe beach resorts to simple budget facilities, you can choose your own standard or quality and plan according to your budget. Here on these pages, we bring you some of the nicest places to stay on Rarotonga.

happy holidays!

Look for this symbol‌ The Cook Islands Tourism Accreditation Scheme is designed to set minimum standards. It will assist you in your choice of where to stay, what to see and what to do.

Wherever you see this logo you can be sure that the accommodation establishment, restaurant, retailer, tour or activity operator has met minimum requirements to assure you of good service, good facilities, safe practices and of course friendly Cook Islands hospitality.

We highly recommend that visitors use their services.

For a full list of all accredited businesses please refer to our website:

www.tourismindustry.co.ck 112 • ESCAPE

t n o r f h c a e b e m Pri location!

18 self-catering air conditioned villas set amongst tropical gardens and across the road from its own stunning beach and reserve. Ideal for couples and families.

Five star location in the heart of popular Muri Beach.

Relax and unwind in one of our well-equipped units/villas with free use of kayaks, SUP’s and snorkel gear. Friendly staff ensure a memorable ‘Rarotongan’ experience.

P. 682 21 022 | beachcomber.co.ck muri@beachcomber.co.ck

phone: +68 2 22020 fax: +68 2 22021 reservations@lagoonbreezevillas.com www.lagoonbreezevillas.com

Welcome to the new Club Raro Resort

With stunning lagoon views from the sun drenched decks, a fantastic swim-up pool bar, International cuisines DQG FRFNWDLOV ZLWK D IXVLRQ RI ORFDO ÀDYRXUV &OXE 5DUR 5HVRUW RIIHUV IULHQGO\ 3RO\QHVLDQ KRVSLWDOLW\ DQG H[FHSWLRQDO YDOXH IRU PRQH\ IRU \RXU QH[W WURSLFDO LVODQG KROLGD\

“Arrive as a guest...leave as a friend�

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*Industry rates available for all members at 20% off rack. Book now for travel and receive industry rates for • 113 you and your friends travelling with you. Quote ESCAPE14ALL when you enquire. Conditions and proof of industry will apply. Contact our team forESCAPE more details.

www.muribeachclubhotel.com RAROTONGA COOK ISLANDS

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YOUR PRIVATE PIECE OF PARADISE!

Absolute Beachfront Sanctuary for 18yrs and over Premium Wedding Specialists Delightful Polynesian Cuisine at SilverSands Restaurant & Bar Onsite Beauty & Spa

P. (682) 23 000 info@muribeachclubhotel.com

114 • ESCAPE

Beachfront and garden bungalows | Onsite restaurant and bar Personal wedding co-ordinator | Rarotonga’s quiet southern coast PO Box 23, Rarotonga, Cook Islands email: beach@palmgrove.co.ck phone: +682 20002 www.palmgrove.net

entertainment guide

Drums of our Forefathers cultural show at Highland Paradise

Take in the sunset with a cocktail near the water; catch an Island Night Show with beautiful

dancers, & get down to live Cook Islands music & dancing around town.

Raro’s night life is special – you can have a great night out whether you’re on your own, or with friends. 18 or 80 years old, it doesn’t matter, everyone just gets together. And you’ll feel welcome wherever you go.

Island Night Shows are a must for every visitor. There is nothing better than seeing our beautiful men and women, adorned in flowers and local costume, dancing to the wonderful pate (hollowed wooden drums), ukulele, guitar, and full voiced singers. It is a joyful, sensual and exuberant experience.

Check out our Island Night Shows Guide on these pages to find a venue that suits you.

During the week On Monday night at the RSA (or “Razza”), just opposite the Airport, DJ MacDad gets a great crowd going at around 9pm till 12 midnight.

A number of Rarotonga restaurants feature live music during the week - refer to our Night Life Guide for details of what’s on, when and where.

It’s great to wander into some of our smaller local bars too - the Game Fishing Club is right on the water; meet the locals and play some pool. Chillies Bar is great for a cold beer and occasionally some footie watching on their big screen. Both of these bars are just east of town. The Nu Bar is a wonderful little local bar/restaurant near the airport, serving great value food and a nice selection of music. Also try Hideaway Bar in Cooks Corner, for a more eclectic feel. On the eastern side of the island, the Avana

For tim es when time doesn ’ t mat ter When good company and great conversation come together, afternoon fades to evening, evening 116 • ESCAPE turns to night and life feels good. What better times to enjoy our much-awarded Marlborough wine.

If you’re staying around the Muri or Titikaveka area, try Silver Sands Restaurant at Muri Beach Club Hotel, Sails Restaurant, Flame Tree Restaurant for a la carte dining and some local music, or perhaps Pacific Resort for their Island Night show. For casual ambience, check out the Asian street-style food at The Rickshaw, or mouthwatering Mexican dishes at La Casita.

s r a l l e c 1 . o Your N

Remember that it pays to make a reservation if visiting a restaurant, to avoid disappointment; and if you want music with your meal, ask who their resident singer is that night.

Check the local paper or ask your resort what’s happening at the local sports clubs – join in for some good live music, cheap drinks, and great company.

Local women enjoy dressing up, and the men prefer comfortable shorts, shirt/t-shirt and sandals, but dress code is open.

Friday Night Friday night is party night, as clubs and bars can open until 2am, unlike every other night, which is 12 midnight. Downtown Avarua is a great place to start: First up is a sunset cocktail at either Trader Jacks, Café Salsa, or Whatever Bar where there’s always a nice mix of locals and tourists.

After a couple of hours, walk across the road to the Garden Bar at the BC (Banana Court), known all over the Pacific. BC’s Garden Bar features local bands from 4pm to 9pm and then its inside for some raw local music and dancing. Trader Jack’s ‘Boogieman’ band, with some of our best musos on the island, starts around 8pm.

Hidies Bar, located in Cooks Corner, has a big open-air dance floor, great drinks, a true island flavour and is Rarotonga’s iconic local hangout, with live bands and resident DJ. Open Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights, Hidies famed ‘Happy Hour’ runs Friday from 4-7pm.

Later in the night it’s back to Whatever Bar for some dancing, or perhaps try Rehab (near Whatever Bar), for some of the latest hip hop, R’n’B, and techno sounds. The great thing about this town is that the bars are only minutes away from each other. It’s safe and people are friendly and will give you directions. Remember to organise a dedicated driver or taxi if you’re drinking.

An organized Nightlife Tour is another great way to enjoy your Friday night and you won’t need to do the driving. The Edgewater Resort & Spa and The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa both run their own legendary ‘Pub Crawls’. Be sure to book in advance to avoid disappointment.

ra n g e … e g u h r u o t u Check o Over 600 wines, all popular brand spirits, liqueurs, beers, RTD’s, mixers, ice, etc. Wedding and special occasion catering, party-hire, we deliver!

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In central Avarua, opposite Punanga Nui Marketplace Open Mon - Thur 9 to 5 | Fri & Sat 9 to 7 ESCAPE • 117 Phone: 21007 Email: trish@thebond.co.ck

entertainment guide

Rarotonga night-life guide

Keep our roads safe if you’re drinking:

MONDAY

Dial a driver: 55580 / 55512 / 55515 Taxis: Refer to yellow pages and book homecoming fare before you go out.

Clockwise Bus: Evening bus departs Cook’s Corner clockwise only, every hour Monday to Thursday and Saturday from 6pm to 11pm. Friday evenings from 6pm to 10pm and 12 midnight to 2am.

Island Night Shows – Quick Guide Crown Beach Resort & Spa Pacific Resort Rarotonga The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa

23953 20427 25800

Tuesday Edgewater Resort & Spa Te Vara Nui Village Samade on the Beach, Aitutaki

25435 24006 31526

Wednesday Beaches @ Manuia Beach Resort 22461 Highland Paradise 21924 The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa 25800 SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel 23000

Thursday Crown Beach Resort & Spa Staircase Restaurant & Bar Te Vara Nui Village Tamanu Beach, Aitutaki

23953 22254 24006 31810

Friday Club Bana Bistro Highland Paradise Pacific Resort Rarotonga Pacific Resort, Aitutaki

23236 21924 20427 31720

Saturday Edgewater Resort & Spa Te Vara Nui Village

RSA (“The Razza”): Local DJ Pumping dance music from 9pm

25435 24006

now, on ‘Island Time’, so relax and enjoy!

118 • ESCAPE

Hidies Bar: Open for lunch 12pm – 2pm Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel:Live music with the sweet sounds of Cathy on keyboard

Edgewater Resort & Spa: Tok 6:30-8:30 Great Classic tunes, jazz, pop, rock

Pacific Resort: Leilani & Co on keyboard & guitar Originals, classics & soulful r’n’b

SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Live island music | Nooroa & Soko on island strings Pacific Resort: A la carte dining and live local artist Fred Betham Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Fire Dance and Island BBQ @ $49 pp + Karaoke

Aro’a Beachside Inn: Garth Young on keyboard Great beachside BBQ and classic tunes Bluewater Grill @ Sanctuary Rarotonga-onthe-beach: Live entertainment with Tara Kauvai Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live Band A la carte menu with live entertainment Edgewater Resort & Spa: Ta’akoka Dance Troupe | Island NightBuffet and Cultural show SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Live music with Ephraima on keyboards Pacific Resort: A la carte dining & live music with guest artist Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Spices of Asia Mongolian BBQ @ $36 pp + crab racing and Karaoke Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and Over Water Night Show &Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & island/western fusion buffet

WEDNESDAY

Beaches Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort: Interactive island experience, with cultural activities, dancing, island buffet, and fire show Edgewater Resort & Spa: Local Band A la carte Seafood menu with local entertainment Hidies Bar: Open for lunch 12pm - 2pm, Evening 8pm -12am SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel:Island Night Extravaganza | Top Akirata Dance Troup Pacific Resort: A la carte dining & live music with guest artist

Remember you’re in Raro

Edgewater Resort & Spa: Ru & Boys A la carte menu with great local sounds

Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights

Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: Seafood Night with entertainment

Monday Phone

Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Akirata dance troupe | Island Night Show & Dinner

Garden Bar - Banana Court: Live Entertainment

Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Te Rau Maire dance troupe | Island Feast and Cultural Show

TUESDAY

(Bookings are recommended)

Aro’a Beachside Inn: Sunset cocktails with live music by Rudy Aquino

Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: ‘Legends of Polynesia’ Island Night UMU Feast & Drum Dance Show @ $49 pp + Karaoke Whatever Bar: Local string band 7-9pm

THURSDAY

Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: Pub Night menu with live entertainment

Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and Over Water Night Show & Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & island/western fusion buffet Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Reef & Beef night @ $36 pp with mellow musical accompaniment by Andre Tapena.

Windjammer Restaurant: First class dining with piano by Garth Young Whatever Bar: Great value meals with local music

FRIDAY

Beaches Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort: Enjoy the sounds of Manuia Beach Resorts famous string band with Natua and the boys Cafe Salsa: Live entertainment with great music & fabulous food Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live Band T-Bone Steak Night with live entertainment Edgewater Resort & Spa: Tok 6:30–8:30 Dining with great local music + Edgewater Resorts “Nitelife Tour” Garden Bar - Banana Court: Great local & upbeat music with bar snacks available Hidies Bar: Open all day 12pm – 2am (Happy Hour 4pm – 8pm) Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights Pacific Resort: A la carte dining & live local artist Kahiki Tehaamatai Rehab: Boogie night with local DJ. Hip-hop, R’n’B, Techno SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Pig & Prawn Night | With live music by Lei Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Flame-Grilled Steak Night @ $36 pp + The Rarotongan’s famous Friday Funbus Nitelife Tour @ $25 pp.

Trader Jacks: Boogieman - rock classics & seafood, steaks & pizza Whatever Bar:Live Band &DJ T. Bone steak, fish, burgers

SATURDAY

Aroa Beachside Inn: Great Seafood Beachside BBQ & the island music of Papa Jake Numanga Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live Entertainment A la carte menu with local & classic tunes

Edgewater Resort& Spa: Island Night Buffet & Cultural Show with Orama Dance Group Hidies Bar: Open evening 8pm-12am Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights Pacific Resort: A la carte dining & live local artist Kura Happ Rehab: DJ. Hip hop, R’n’B’, dance night Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Fire Dance Show & Island BBQ @ $49 pp + Karaoke Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and Over Water Night Show & Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & island/western fusion buffet Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Firedance Show & Island Barbeque + Karaoke Whatever Bar: Scrumptuous menu with live music by local string band

SUNDAY

SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Beach Flying Boat Beach Bar & Grill @ Aitutaki BBQ Grill Night from $25 pp + live music with Lagoon Resort & Spa: Live entertainment with Papa Jake Numanga.

Greig Mose

Pacific Resort: Island Night - South Pacific Pacific Resort: A la carte dining & live local cuisine and performances by local dancers artist Rudi Aquino

The Boatshed Bar & Grill: Check out this Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach popular restaurant any day of the week. A-laResort & Spa: Sunday Carvery Roast @ $36 pp carte menu for lunch & dinner. Great cocktails! with Tok on guitar

THURSDAY

Aitutaki night-life guide MONDAY

Bounty Brasserie @ Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa: Fire dance show, a la carte dinner & crab races Tupuna’s Restaurant: Great a-la-carte dining with the freshest local foods in a relaxed garden setting. Mon-Sat from 6pm

Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: TUESDAY BBQ with live entertainment

Aitutaki Village: Island buffet and Bluewater Grill @ Sanctuary Rarotonga-oncultural show on the sandy beach at Ootu the-beach: Live entertainment with Tara Kauvai

Club Raro: BBQ night with local string band WEDNESDAY

Aitutaki Game Fishing Club: A good evening Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Roast Night with to visit and meet the locals. Where else would live entertainment you find a bar in a 20 foot container?

Edgewater Resort & Spa: Ru & Boys -local string band

Tamanu Beach: Island Fire & Dance Show on the beach. Fantastic entertainment with a great selection of food

FRIDAY

Aitutaki Game Fishing Club: One of the most popular local bars to visit for a sun-downer Coconut Crusher Bar: Entertainment and party the night away with your host Ricky Flying Boat Beach Bar & Grill @ Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa: Live entertainment with Greig Mose. | Funbus Nitelife Tour @ $35 pp Pacific Resort Aitutaki: Island Night & Show With great local entertainment and food Puffy's Bar: Island Night Floor Show & Buffet

SUNDAY

Aitutaki Village: Barbeque with great entertainment Tamanu Beach: Sunset Barbeque Night with great local entertainment and island food

Prices or schedules are subject to change at any time.

ESCAPE • 119

what's on

t

hroughout the year we find many reasons to celebrate and have fun, and there’s always plenty to do and see on Rarotonga and her sister islands. As most Cook Islanders are willing sports participants, you’ll find a multitude of sports codes and clubs active throughout the islands, where you are always welcome to visit. As for festivals and celebratory events, it is certain that you will always find something of interest taking place.

April Aperira

Thu 2nd School Term 1 complete – School Holidays begin

Wed 3rd BTIB Winter Fest Night Market Fri 5th World Environment Day

Fri 3rd Good Friday – public holiday

Sat 20th Town v’s Country Rugby 10’s

Mon 6th Easter Monday – public holiday

Sat 20th Rugby 15’s season commences (all grades)

Tue 7th – Sat 11th Youth Kia Orana Football Festival

Dates TBC Rugby Union 7’s Festival Black Tie Gala Dinner Scotty’s Rarotonga Amateur Golf Open

Fri 17th Tinman Triathlon

Sat 8th Manihiki Gospel Day – public holiday Manihiki Mon 10th School Term 3 begins Sat 15th Rakahanga Gospel Day – public holiday Rakahanga Date TBC Tangi Kaara Drumming Competition

September Tepetema Sun 6th Fathers Day

Mon 20th School Term 2 begins

July Tiurai

Sat 25th ANZAC Day Air New Zealand ANZAC Golf Tournament (date TBC)

Fri 3rd ‘Ra o te Ui Ariki’ – public holiday

Sat 12th Rarotonga Rugby Club 15’s Grand Finals

Tue 14th LBV Restaurant Bastille Day celebrations

Date TBC National Tennis Championships

Fri 17th School Term 2 complete – School Holidays begin

Thu 17th – Wed 23rd Island Car & Bike Hire 38th Round Rarotonga Road Race events

May Me

Sun 19th Atiu Gospel Day – public holiday Atiu

Fri 1st Te Mire Ura – National Dancer of the Year Open Senior National Finals Venue - National Auditorium Mon 4th School Term 2 begins Mon 4th – Thu 7th Golden Oldies Rugby Festival Fri 8th International Triathlon Week Commences With Trader Jack’s Boiler Swim Sat 9th Air New Zealand Rarotonga Triathlon Sun 10th Mothers Day Triathlon Awards Dinner Thu 14th Matutu Mile fun run Dates TBC Turtles ‘Tour de Raro’ Cycle Race Opera in Rarotonga – Arias in Aitutaki Te Aito Cook Islands (canoeing) Cook Islands Art Exhibition

June Tiunu

Mon 1st Queens Birthday – public holiday Kumete Sports (athletics)

120 • ESCAPE

Fri 25th Atiu Island Tumunu Tutaka Festival

Tue 21st Mitiaro Gospel Day – public holiday Mitiaro

Dates TBC International Kitesurfing Competition, Aitutaki Canoeing National Distance Series

Wed 22nd Mauke Gospel Day – public holiday Mauke

OCTOBER Okotopa

Thu 23rd Te Maeva Nui Official Opening

Fri 2rd School Term 3 complete – School Holidays

Fri 24th Te Maeva Nui Float Parade

Mon 12th School Term 4 begins

Tue 28th – Mon 31st Aug Te Maeva Nui Market Trade Days

Fri 23rd – Thu 29th Cook Islands Squash Open Tournament

Tue 28th – Mon 6th Aug 50th Anniversary Squash Open Tournament

Sat 24th LBV Okotopa Festival (beer & kai)

Dates TBC Taekwon-Do Championships Ministry of Education Careers Expo 2015 Cook Islands Bowls Carnival Miss Cook Islands 2015 Sailing – National Class Championships Aitutaki

August Aukute

Sat 1st – Sat 8th Cook Islands Games - CISNOC Tue 4th 50th Anniversary, Self Governing Commemorative Day – public holiday Te Maeva Nui closing ceremony & awards

Sun 25th Aitutaki Gospel Day Mon 26th National Gospel Day – public holiday Dates TBC Te Maire Tama 2015 @ the National Auditorium Miss Tiare pageant & Young Warriors competition Cook Islands Food & Drink Festival N.B. Dates and events are provided courtesy of Cook Islands Tourism Corporation and are subject to change without notice. Visitors are advised to confirm event dates with the Visitor Information Centre – phone (682) 29435, or by email: Lydia.Nga@cookislands.gov.ck

6

EVENTS THAT YOU SHOULDN’T MISS… MAY Te Mire Ura – Dancer of the Year Poetry in motion is a euphemism made literal in Polynesia, no truer than when the annual Dancer of the Year competition is held each April. Dozens of dancers in three age groups, junior, intermediate and open, take to the stage at nightspots on Rarotonga and the outer islands. Finals are then held at the 2,000 seat national auditorium in Rarotonga under the direction of the Ministry of Cultural Development.

An entertaining evening watching the finals at the auditorium sees a mingling of locals and tourists filling the place up, packed out with kids - every dancer of the year is every kid’s idol until the next year.

Winners are chosen on criteria like costume, choreography and degree-of-difficulty.

This is always a most entertaining and enlightening spectacle for visitors.

JULY / AUGUST Te Maeva Nui – Celebrating the 50th anniversary our nation’s independence Every year from June to August about 2000 people on Rarotonga and on the outer islands put their lives on hold to prepare for Te Maeva Nui, the national culture and dance festival. It is a week-long cultural marathon held around the date of August 4th, which is the birthday of the Cook Islands as an independent nation.

As 2015 marks the 50th anniversary, the celebrations this year are guaranteed to be a super spectacular event.

Te Maeva Nui Float Parade

Whilst each year in April, solo dancers compete for the title of ‘Dancer of the Year’, it is the big dance teams from different islands and districts who challenge each other during Te Maeva Nui. It is an intense competition, which requires energy and dedication from a large percentage of the Cook Islands population. For five nights the exuberant performances become a vibrant testimony of the passionate commitment Cook Islanders have to their dance and culture.

Islands Tourism, will manage this big event which has catapulted the Cook Islands on to the international stage as a desirable kite surfing destination. 2011’s inaugural event generated immense support for the association and this year marks the 5th such competition on the stunning waters of Aitutaki Lagoon.

The dynamic drum dance is the favourite of most locals and visitors, but each team competes in four disciplines in total: Ute (song-chant), Pe’e (chant and theatre), Kapa Rima (action song) and Ura Pa’u (drum dance). And, it is the thrill of anticipation that excites the local audience – what new dances, costumes, songs and chants are in store?

7’s in Heaven

You may have seen cultural dance shows around the island, or perhaps in your resort, but you haven’t seen anything that even closely resembles the vibrancy and passion of the finals at Te Maeva Nui, held in the National Stadium. This is the cultural highlight of the Cook Islands year; the only people who are ever disappointed are those who miss it.

SEPTEMBER International Kite surfing Competition

NOVEMBER

The Cook Islands International Rugby 7’s Tournament which is also known as ‘Sevens in Heaven' has become one of the most sought after 7’s competitions in the Pacific.

During the past 10 years, the Cook Islands international ‘Sevens in Heaven’ tournament has not only grown to include age grade matches and women’s teams – it has also developed a real festive atmosphere.

Although it’s not the Wellington or Hong Kong sevens, where hundreds of thousands flock to the games in colourful eye catching attire, here in paradise, the party and dress up atmosphere is very much island style!

After all – playing sports and having a good time is something the people of the Cook Islands know how to do, and do well.

Vaka Eiva

In September some of the biggest names in kite surfing will head to the Cook Islands to vie for the top spot at the international kite surfing competition on Aitutaki.

Hundreds of paddlers and their supporters hit Rarotonga’s shores in November each year for the Steinlager Vaka Eiva; an exciting and fun outrigger canoeing festival, which is now the largest sporting event in the country.

The Cook Islands Kite surfing Association, in conjunction with the events team at Cook

While the rugby 7s festival generates plenty of excitement in these rugby mad islands,

ESCAPE • 121

there’s no doubt the influx of paddlers and supporters to the island hypes things up even more for the exciting week of Vaka Eiva activities; and oe vaka is fast establishing itself as one of the largest and most popular sporting codes in the country.

What makes it even more special, is that outrigger canoeing is one of the few traditional Polynesian sports that have survived the test of time, plus it has strong cultural significance and roots in the Pacific islands. Vaka Eiva is a festival promoting both competition and the culture of oe vaka.

Held annually since 2004, Vaka Eiva has established a reputation as a hugely enjoyable week of racing, culture, and festivities, and attracts crews from throughout the world.

There’s an air of festivity on the island the whole week long, from the opening ceremony, throughout the week of racing and social activities, to the wrap up paddler’s party at Trader Jack’s waterfront bar. Trader Jack is one sponsor who has been involved from the start and this is the hangout of choice for paddlers and

spectators throughout the week, giving close views of the start and finish of the ocean races.

DECEMBER Te Mire Tiare Flower Festival

Sevens in Heaven

This happy and colourful festival features competitions for the best floral decorated shops, schools and government buildings, each one on a different day of the week long festivities. Locals also vie for the honour of making the best head or neck ‘ei (garland), best pot plant and much more.

The glamorous focal point to the week is undoubtedly the ‘Miss Tiare’ competition which sees attractive young ladies competing for this prestigious title. The first appearance of the contestants is usually at the Punanga Nui marketplace on the first Saturday of the festival; the weeks wraps up with a colourful float parade and crowning of Miss Tiare on the following Saturday.

Downtown Avarua Next to the ANZ Bank We’re here to help you! Advice on accommodation, tours, restaurants, activities, entertainment and travel to our sister islands. Phone or call in to see us.

Open: Monday to Friday 8am - 4pm Saturday 10am - 1pm Phone: (682) 29435 Email: headoffice@cookislands.gov.ck 122 • ESCAPE

For more information and to confirm event dates, visitors are advised to contact the Visitor Information Centre – phone (682) 29435, or by email: Lydia.Nga@cookislands.gov.ck

Rarotonga (Head Office) P.O. Box 14, Rarotonga, Cook Islands Phone: (682) 29435 Fax: (682) 21435 headoffice@cookislands.gov.ck

Aitutaki P.O. Box 3, Aitutaki Cook Islands T: (682) 31767 tourism.officer@aitutaki.net.ck

New Zealand 91 St Georges Bay Rd, Studio 11, Level 3 Parnell Auckland 1052 New Zealand T: (64) 9 366 1106 nzmanager@cookislands.travel

North America canadamanager@cookislands.travel usamanager@cookislands.travel

Australia Shop 38, Niecon Plaza, Mezzanine Level, 17-19 Victoria Ave Broadbeach, QLD 4218 Australia T: (61 ) 7 5504 5488 info@cookislandstourism.travel

United Kingdom ukmanager@cookislands.travel

Atiu T: (682) 33435 tourism@atiu.net.ck

Northern Europe europemanager@cookislands.travel Southern Europe southerneurope@cookislands.travel

China chinamanager@cookislands.travel Japan japanmanager@cookislands.travel

www.cookislands.travel

Celebrating 50 years of Cook Islands independence We have a wide variety of vehicles to choose from: • Hatchbacks • Convertibles • Vans • Toyota Rav4 Jeeps 6 convenient locations Main Office, Avarua Ph: 29227 Downtown, Avarua Ph: 26227 Edgewater Resort Ph: 23227 Aroa (across from the Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa) Ph: 25227 Muri Beach Ph: 24227 Airport (international flights only) Ph:21039

Phone 29227 Roadside Assistance (8am to 10pm) Ph 54325 Email: reservations@polynesianhire.co.ck

www.polynesianhire.co.ck FIND US ON FACEBOOK

Best rates on the island - Just call us!

Easy to get around. Beat the heat.

• Yamaha Cygnus 125cc - fully auto • Yamaha Exon 115cc 2 seater - fully auto • Mountain & Beach Cruiser Bicycles

Phone 29227 www.polynesianhire.co.ck

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www.bergmanandsons.com