Escape Magazine Issue 26

TAKE ME HOME

I'M FREE

26

Manihiki Magic Pacific Tatau Dance Island Style Weaving with Kikau The Art of Voyaging

FIND US ON FACEBOOK: Cook Islands Escape Magazine

www.escapemagazine.travel

One unforgettable Day

“The view of the island from the plane was just spectacular.”

“I think we’d all forgotten how to relax, the cruise fixed that.”

“This tour was the highlight of our trip. We loved every minute of it.”

LM/SD 2023017

“Once they found the fish the boys snorkelled for hours.”

Flights depart daily (except Sundays) from Rarotonga Airport at 8.00am. Returns 5.30pm.

For more information please call our reservations centre (Mon-Sat) on 22888 or email bookings@airraro.com

www.airraro.com

Aitutaki Cruising, swimming, snorkelling, relaxing over a barbequed relaxing over a barbequed lunch of freshly caught fish lunch of freshly caught fish as you explore Aitutaki’s asbeautiful you explore Aitutaki’s lagoon.

Cruising, swimming, snorkelling,

beautiful lagoon.

AIR RAROTONGA’S DAYTOUR INCLUDES: A I R R A R O T O N G A’ S - Aitutaki DAY T O U Risland I N C Ltour UDES:

THE VAKA CRUISE - Island hopping T H E VA K A C RU I S E - Delicious barbequed lunch • Island hopping served on-board • Delicious barbequed lunch - Complimentary served on-boardtowels and snorkelling equipment • Complimentary towels and - Bathroom facilities snorkelling equipment Round trip facilities airfares from • - Bathroom Rarotonga Round trip airfares from • Aitutaki island tour

•

Rarotonga

All inclusive costs:

FFROM RO M $493 $459 PPER E R PERSON PERSON

Adults $493 (incl. VAT) Child $246.50 (2-11 yrs) Infants FREE (under 2 years)

CONTENTS Issue 26 January 2018

40

Up front

Tour of the Cook Islands

6 8

11 An introduction to the Cook Islands 22 Rarotonga 78 Aitutaki 84 Atiu 86 Our South Pacific Home – Southern & Northern Group Islands

Introduction Contributors to this issue

Features 40 Manihiki Magic Tim Meyer describes his time spent in Manihiki on a lagoon cleaning trip and tells us about pearl farming.

48 The Ways of Weaving Rachel Smith talks to local weaver Ruta Pirangi about weaving with kikau (coconut palm leaves) and her passion to pass her skills and art on to the next generation.

50 A Pharmacist in Rarotonga Local pharmacist Shannon Saunders tells us about her times and experience working in Rarotonga.

56

Regulars 12 Art Scene Our writer Joan Gragg talks about her early childhood memories of playing games.

16 Book Worms A review of topical authors and their books.

18 What’s in Store?

Taking a look in shop windows.

52 Tatau -A Language of the Pacific

Local writer Glenda Tuaine talks to three local tatau (tattoo) artists about their passion for the artworks they perform and share some of their designs.

20 Raro Rhythm Read about Tuaine Papatua a Cook Islander who has returned home to share his singing talents, and can be found playing around Rarotonga most nights.

56 Pushing Against the Tide – Te Mira Ura Read about local young dancers and their performances to keep the art of Cook Islands song and dance alive.

28

62 Grow Your Own Local Brian Tairea talks to Rachel Smith about his efforts to encourage the school children of the Cook Islands to start growing their own food.

Island Cuisine We visit local restaurants.

38 Phillip Nordt on Food Learn how to prepare and serve short billed marlin or spiafish as they are called locally.

58 Great Places to Stay

A guide to some of Rarotonga’s best accommodation.

64 Marumaru Atua: Under the Protection of God Writer Amelia Borofsky tells us about the history and experiences of the vaka Marumaru Atua and how you may be able to help keep history alive.

90 Culturally Significant Plants and Animals In this issue find out about the pandanus or ara and the giant clam.

67 Waste Not: The Recyclable Art of Sabine Janneck Read about the “garbage lady” and her efforts to recycle plastic in Rarotonga.

92 ‘The Bond’ Entertainment Guide The inside story on the best clubs, island shows and nightlife.

68 Cook Islands Tourism Rebranding Cook Islands Tourism tells Rachel Reeves the reasons they went through a rebranding of their advertising to attract tourists to this little bit of paradise.

96

What’s On? A calendar of events and holidays.

70 Cook Islands Takes Centre Stage The Cook Islands appear at the Polynesian Cultural Center in Hawaii.

Front Cover: Kiani Hand - Pushing Against the Tide- Te Mira Ura Photo: Chiavanni Le’Mon

4 • ESCAPE

EDITOR'S Note Kia Orana and welcome to the Pacific Paradise of the Cook Islands and issue 26 of Escape magazine.

publisher RD Pacific Publishing Limited editors Margaret and Steve Woulfe design Christina Thiele | Ultimo Group Auckland, New Zealand printed in New Zealand Webstar a division of Blue Star Group (New Zealand) Ltd, Auckland. advertising director Margaret Woulfe regular contributors Rachel Reeves Glenda Tuaine Joan Gragg Rachel Smith Kirby Morejohn Amelia Borofsky advertising sales Rarotonga Steve Woulfe Phone: (682) 23449 or 57298 Email: advertise@escape.co.ck distribution Rarotonga Phone: (682) 57512 Email: advertise@escape.co.ck distribution Aitutaki Annie Bishop Phone: (682) 31009 Email: bishopcruz@aitutaki.net.ck Escape is published bi-annually by RD Pacific Publishing Limited P.O. Box 3010, Rarotonga, Cook Islands Email: advertise@escape.co.ck All contents of ESCAPE magazine are copyright of RD Pacific Publishing Limited.

Any reproduction of any part of this magazine without prior written permission is strictly prohibited.

6 • ESCAPE

While some of you are sitting on a beach or relaxing by the pool in Rarotonga, Aitutaki or one of the other Cook Islands. Others of you will be reading this, sitting in an Air New Zealand Koru lounge in Auckland or even the Qantas or Strata lounges while waiting to go away on holiday or having picked up a copy from a Flight Centre Expo are planning already where to go and stay while over here. Hopefully this gives you a small taste of what the Cook Islands have to offer. When you ae thinking of that next trip away, this is the place to visit.

Now we have three airlines flying to Rarotonga – Air New Zealand, Jetstar and Virgin it is easier and more affordable than ever to come over for a week or two or more. With daily flights from New Zealand to Rarotonga and easy connections to Air Rarotonga, all the Cook Islands are in easy reach.

In the next 12 months there are lots of events and experiences to be had in the Cooks.

From traditional dancing and singing to running or cycling around Rarotonga (if you dare?) to rugby sevens to swimming in the blue waters or even running around Aitutaki in May for the inaugural Aitutaki marathon there are activities for all the family. For more information on Whats on see pages 92 to 100 or call any of the Cook Island Tourism offices listed on page 98.

We have accommodation from high end resorts and hotels to backpackers for the budget conscious to self-catering holiday homes, there is something here for every budget, so check out some of the best places to stay both in Rarotonga and Aitutaki later in this issue. For those who like to dine out we showcase the best of the best restaurants and cafes in Rarotonga and Aitutaki.

We hope that everyone finds something to enjoy in this issue and welcome any feedback you may have either via email or on our Facebook page – Cook Islands Escape Magazine. Don’t forget if you are on Facebook to please like our page and follow our page to keep up with events and people in the Cook Islands. Don’t forget to mention Escape magazine when you book or use any of our advertisers as some are offering a discount for name dropping.

To all visitors please take this magazine home with you and share with your friends so they too can come and experience our little piece of paradise.

Kia Manuia Margaret & Steve

T H E WOR L D S BE ST K E P T SE C R ET Our resorts are an independent, character infused family of hotels in our little paradise of the Cook Islands, filled with local, colourful characters who go above and beyond. At Pacific Resort, we believe the magic of travel is in discovering something different. Something local, valuable and authentic. pacificresort.com

STAY CONNECTED WITH BLUESKY WHILE IN THE COOK ISLANDS

CONTRIBUTORS Rachel Reeves

WiFi HOTSPOT For fast internet connections on the go, Check out our Hotspots.

There are over 300 Bluesky WiFi HOTSPOTS in Rarotonga and Aitutaki giving you easy internet access to your family, friends and Social Media.

MOBILE Grab a $49 Bluesky VISITOR SIM card. Available from any of our Bluesky Outlets and our Airport Kiosk. Our VISITOR SIM card is preloaded with 3GB of data, 30mins of calling and 300 TXT to anywhere in the world*.

INTERNATIONAL CALLING Get talking with INTERNATIONAL CAPPED CALLING. Our one-hour capped calling rates are some of the best under the Pacific sun. For up to an hour pay $5.00 to call New Zealand and $10.00 to call Australia, Fiji, UK, USA and Canada.

Born and raised in California, Rachel Michele Teana Reeves has Atiu roots on her father's side. She moved to Rarotonga when she was 21 to get to know her Cook Islands heritage and fell in love with the island and island life. Rachel has been writing for Escape Magazine for six years. She has also worked as a reporter and columnist for Cook Islands News and a reporter for a newspaper in Los Angeles. In 2014, she was commissioned to write a book about the impact of Cyclone Martin on the atoll of Manihiki ; Matini was published a year later. Rachel is grateful to the people of the Cook Islands, who have welcomed her with warmth and aro'a.

Dr. Amelia Rachel Hokule’a Borofsky Dr. Amelia Rachel Hokule’a Borofsky grew up in Pukapuka and Hawai’i. A global traveler, she has visited 42 countries, but Cook Islands remains her favorite place for prayer, play, food, and family. Her ideal day involves talking to people and then writing their stories. She also wears hats as a community psychologist, storyteller, voyager, and avid surfer. She is currently at work on a New Book of Pukapuka and completing a documentary Homecoming: A Film About Pukapuka. She speaks fluent Spanish and has written for the Atlantic, New Zealand Geographic, and Cook Islands News.

Rachel Smith Rachel is a freelance writer who has recently returned to live in Rarotonga. It was a love for the relaxed island pace of life, and the beauty and warmth of the Cook Islands and its people, which made it an easy decision to move back after three years of living in Christchurch, New Zealand. Her freelance and fiction work has featured in a number of online and print magazines, and she now combines freelance, fiction and policy writing with family life. http://rachelmsmithnz.wix.com/ rachel-smith

Kirby Morejohn Born and raised in California, Kirby Morejohn is a marine biologist who is currently based in the Cook Islands, where he and his partner, Jess Cramp, are studying sharks. Kirby enjoys photography, diving, freedive hunting, and cooking wild caught and locally harvested foods.

Glenda Tuaine Visit us at any of our Bluesky Outlets in Rarotonga and Aitutaki

Glenda has lived in Rarotonga since 2005 when she returned to be the Marketing Director for Cook Islands Tourism after working in the New Zealand Arts industry as a Festival Director, Producer, Writer, sometime Radio and TV Presenter and all round arts advocate. Now Glenda and her husband Mo run the successful creative company Motone focusing on Music and Performing arts development in Rarotonga and Aitutaki. Glenda is of Aitutaki and Rarotongan descent and when not working on a myriad of projects can be found at the beach with her daughter Ruby and dog Nemo.

Also Joan Gragg, Jess Cramp, Ewan Smith, Alan Syme, Thomas Koteka, Tim Meyer, Nick Henry, Margaret Woulfe and Steve Woulfe.

Learn our language & culture. Download the Hika Kia Orana app today from the App Store & Google Play store.

8 • ESCAPE

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Experience a nostalgic tropical evening dedicated to the1950’s world famous Coral Route on Aitutaki’s fabled lagoon; includes dinner, drinks & entertainment.

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www.airraro.com • ESCAPE Aitutaki10 © Ewan Smith

The Cook Islands

15 tiny islands in paradise, that a small nation calls home.

London Berlin Vancouver Rome Beijing

Seoul Tokyo Los Angeles Hong Kong Honalulu

Northern Group

Capetown

Perth

Sydney

Cook Islands Auckland

Southern Group

W

here would someone say, “may you live long,” upon meeting you for the first time, but in the Cook Islands.

The Cook Islands greeting Kia Orana, means exactly that, “may you live long.” It is a unique first gesture of friendship from a special Polynesian people, renown for their hospitality and warmth.

It is as if God chose his 15 most precious gems, and then sprinkled them over 2.25 million sq km of the Pacific to become the Cook Islands – an ei (necklace) of islands awaiting to embrace all visitors.

All the islands combined make up a land area of just 240 sq km. Each of the ‘gems’ is unlike the other and all have their own special features. From the majestic peaks of Rarotonga to the low-lying untouched coral atolls of the northern islands of Manihiki, Penrhyn, Rakahanga, Pukapuka, Nassau and Suwarrow.

The latter, inhabited only by a caretaker and his family, is a popular anchorage for yachts from all over the world.

The Southern Cooks is made up of the capital Rarotonga, Aitutaki, Atiu, Mangaia, Mauke, Mitiaro, Manuae, Palmerston and Takutea.

Takutea is an uninhabited bird sanctuary and managed by the Atiu Island Council. Manuae is the remaining uninhabited island.

Cook Islanders have their own Maori language and each of the populated islands a distinct dialect. It has a population of around

13,000. The Cooks has been self-governing in free association with New Zealand since 1965. By virtue of that unique relationship, all Cook Islanders hold New Zealand passports. The country is governed by 25-member Parliament elected by universal suffrage. The Cook Islands Parliamentary system is modelled on the Westminster system of Britain. The Queens Representative is Head of State. A House of Ariki (traditional paramount chiefs) counsels and advises government, as does the Koutu Nui, a body of traditional chiefs.

This is a delightful Pacific country where the ‘metropolis’ of Rarotonga offers a wide range of activities, accommodation and cuisine and visitors can choose to be as busy as they wish. A short inter-island flight away are the less developed southern group islands each offering something different.

Travelling to the isolated northern islands by inter-island flight or boat, one savours a South Pacific rarely seen by outsiders. Due to distance and infrequency of transport there are fewer visitors to the northern group islands.

But wherever you turn you see bright tropical colours and movement, whether it is the sway of palms and sea in the trade winds, or dancers entertaining at one of the many nightspots found on Rarotonga and Aitutaki. While you may nearly always hear the ocean, you will always feel the warmth of the people and their tropical paradise. The Cook Islands truly is a slice of heaven.

ESCAPE • 11

art scene

e g a u g n the la of the T

oday in our village of Tutakimoa in the centre of Avarua you will hear people speak English but when we grew up in the forties and later, people spoke the northern Cook Islands Maori dialect. As I wrote before the people in the village came from the northern Cook Islands, Manihiki, Rakahanga, Penrhyn and Pukapuka although Pukapukans lived mainly in Pue, a village a little further out of town.

Our family spoke English at home to our parents and Manihikian to our grandmother. At school English was the language of instruction however our maternal grandmother who had a huge influence on us, lived with us and she spoke Manihikian Maori and Palmerston English. We were always encouraged to speak Maori at home but at school we were not allowed to speak Maori.

The Maori language was ignored. Most of our relatives who lived in the village

12 • ESCAPE

spoke to us in Maori but our Palmerston family who lived in Kakirori spoke in Palmerston English. The only language we wrote in was English.

A curious child survived and competed in a village environment by learning the language of the village. The reason I learned to speak Maori was because if I didn’t, I lost my marbles. All the game rules were in Maori and you had to be able to defend the rules against smarties who wanted to bend them. There were ditties and chants to be learned. Glass marbles were the only marbles accepted when you played Pata rave, keeps. If you didn't want to chip your marbles you could use puka seed marbles which were seeds collected from the beach where puka trees grow.

There were always lots of them under the trees but they needed to be cleaned and polished until they shone. Cleaning them is a tedious business. The bark had

Story: Joan Gragg

to be cleaned from the seed by rubbing it against a rock until it was completely removed. To polish it another seed had to be broken and the oil from the kernel rubbed on the cleaned seed and polished on the hem of your school uniform. The problem with puka marbles was they were comparatively lighter than glass marbles. It wasn’t much fun if someone played against you with a glass marble because they were much heavier and could blast you right out of the playing area. The main marble arena was on the corner of Tutakimoa Road and St Joseph Road outside Mama Nio’s house. It was the Olympic stadium for marbles. The playing field was approximately three yards square that had been patted down by hands to form a firm flat smooth surface.

After school during marble season the young kids played first until the older kids turned up and took over the arena.

There were some games we played that we could make from the trees and bushes around us. We made stilts from thick au sticks. When au is cut from the tree it

Tivaevae Collectables.com has a slimy bark that is difficult to work with so it is best to make stilts after the dance teams had made their costumes and the au sticks and kiriau were dry. Au is wild yellow hibiscus. Kiriau is the bark of Au. Hula skirts are made from the bark by scraping the skin from the bark and soaking it in the lagoon or stream for about three weeks. It is then dried ready for use. The hardest part in making stilts was to attach the foot piece to the stilt shaft. If the only nails available were too big they would weaken the shaft and break it. Tying kiriau over the nails sometimes held the foot piece together for longer. Most of our time was spent making toys to play with and little time using the toy before it broke.

Ipanapana was a popular game.

It needed three sticks with a diameter of about one inch, two sticks ten inches long, called tokini and one two feet long called teka. They could be cut from a hibiscus or panex hedge using a bush knife. An open area was used to play on. Any number of players could play. To choose the first player one-person chants as she points to each player. (eni meni mini mo) Piti piti patoro a tore tore romi e ia romi tai rua toru a.

The first player is where ‘a’ ends up.

At one end of the playing area an elongated shallow hole is scratched in the ground, eight inches long, two inches wide and one and a half inches deep. The first player places one tokini across the hole and stands behind the hole facing the fielders. All other players become fielders.

The player places the point of the long stick, teka, in the hole under the tokini. The idea is to flick the tokini as far as possible away from the hole without being caught by a fielder. If it is caught the player is out.

All players chant, Tokini tokini kare a au re. (tokini tokini you haven’t won or you are out) and the next player comes in. If it lands safely, the distance from the hole to the tokini is measured using the teka by turning it end to end counting the turns.

The second challenge is set up as the first, (tokini across the hole) the second tokini is placed with one end in the hole and the other end resting on the first tokini but protruding above the first tokini (across the hole) by about five inches. The player moves to the side of the hole and with the teka strikes the tokini jutting out of the hole (leaning on the first tokini) sending it into the air. With the teka the tokini must be flipped up again so it can be struck again to send it further away. If it is not caught and the task is uncompleted, everyone sings and dances Tokini tokini kare a au re. (tokini tokini you are out) If the task is completed the distance from the tokini to the hole is measured. The third challenge is set up the same as the second challenge but player has to flip the tokini twice when in the air before sending it into the field. If this is achieved the count is made using the tokini from where it landed to the hole. Measuring can be tricky. Some players keener than most to win can quickly start measuring by getting a count of three or four when it should only be one or two. Each person has to remember their own score. This is the basic game but it does have many forms.

We played pinipini ta’ae. Hiding from the devil. Another name for hide and seek.

Pere toka, a game similar to drafts or snakes and ladders was made on the spot.

The grid was drawn on a flat surface and stones or seeds in two colors found.

Porenga was a chasing game. It was usually played with two people. You had to be the last one to touch your friend and say porenga before you ran away. It was an exhausting game because of the running and laughing. Sometimes it took a

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Cook Is

Novel, unique and appealingly attractive, this deck of cards features 54 art works by Joan Gragg. Joan’s art is influenced by everyday life in the Cook Islands. An ideal gift or souvenir!

Available from: Beachcomber Pearl Market Bounty Bookshop • Island Craft • The Gift Shop The little Red Gallery • Perfumes of Rarotonga

See Joan’s artwork at The Furniture Centre

ESCAPE • 13

long time to get home because each one wanted to say the last porenga.

We always went home after school except on the odd time when we were highjacked by the sea. After school when we walked past the harbour on very hot days and no ships were in port, strange things would happen. The waves rippling and glistening on the sea called out to us and said, “Come, dip your feet in the tide before you go home”. We of course thought that was a good idea so we would cautiously walk into the water but the waves would splash our clothes until they were wet. Once

this happened we were in the grip of the sea. We totally forgot about going home.

Forgot the promise we made never to go swimming at the wharf without telling our parents. We raced each other swimming to the ladder to climb onto the wharf. It was fun time. Diving in at the deep end.

Swimming under the lighters moored five abreast. Running along the wharf gaining momentum to launch oneself off the end of the wharf as far out as possible.

Every kid had a scary experience at the wharf when they thought they might die or someone else thought they might die.

My experience was when I dove under the lighters racing one of my sisters when I came up under a moored lighter. It was pitch black and I didn’t know which way was up or down, luckily a shaft of light came through when the lighters moved and I saw the light on the surface of the water. I did not tell anyone about it until I was sure I was still alive.

One of our friends once dove off the end of the wharf into a dinghy. We thought she

was dead for sure but she only hurt her pride. We laughed about it for days. She laughed too. We were all relieved because that could have put a stop to swimming at the wharf forever.

Besides swimming, the wharf always had food. Delicious copra! Copra is dried coconut. Copra from broken sacks collected between the sleepers that held a rail system that trucked the produce for New Zealand on flat bed trollies from the storage sheds to the lighters that took the cargo out to the ships anchored beyond the reef. Cold, hungry, water logged kids with blue lips and wrinkled fingers could pry out pieces of copra caught between the sleepers and enjoy the delicious snack.

Oddly enough copra did not taste so good if you were not at the wharf.

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14 • ESCAPE

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26

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Be sure to check out our website.

You can access Escape Magazine on-line, read the entire content, read back issues and link directly with our advertisers. And it’s free!

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RAROTONGA BUS SCHEDULE Clockwise/Day/Night Schedule Bus Stop COOK’S CORNER BUS TERMINAL Paradise Inn Fishing Club/Club Raro Kiikii Motel Super Brown/Ariana Bungalows Matavera Village Traders Sunrise Beach Bungalows/Avana Condos Aroko Bungalows Muri Beach Club Hotel Pacific Resort Muri Beachcomber/Muri Beach/Sails Muri Beach Resort/Nautilus Fruits of Rarotonga Raina Beach Apartments/Charlie’s Cafe Little Polynesian/Maire Nui Garden Moana Sands Motel Royale Takitumu Villas/Bella Beach Sea Change Villas/Saltwater Cafe Palm Grove Lodges Wigmore’s Superstore/Waterfall Rarotongan Beach Resort/Sanctuary Lagoon Breeze Villas International Backpackers/Black Pearl Aro’a Beachside Inn Sunhaven/Rarotonga Backpackers Castaway Beach Resort Manuia Beach Resort Crown Beach Resort Edgewater Resort & Spa Sunset Resort/Cook’s Oasis Rarotonga Golf Club/Social Centre 21.3 Vaiana’s Bar Rarotonga International Airport/Islander Hotel CITC Supermarket Punanganui Market COOK’S CORNER BUS TERMINAL

Anti-Clockwise Day Schedule Mins Past Hour 00 02 05 06 07 09 11 13 14 15 16 17 18 18 19 20 21 22 25 26 30 31 33 34 35 36 37 38 40 42 43 44 45 48 49 50

The Clockwise bus departs Cook’s Corner Bus Terminal on the hour, every hour. Monday to Saturday - 7:00am to 11:00pm

Bus Stop COOK’S CORNER BUS TERMINAL Punanganui Market CITC Supermarket Islander Hotel/Rarotonga International Airport 21.3 Vaiana’s Bar Rarotonga Golf Club/Social Centre Cook’s Oasis/Sunset Resort Edgewater Resort & Spa Crown Beach Resort Manuia Beach Resort Castaway Beach Resort Rarotonga Backpackers/Sunhaven Aro’a Beachside Inn Black Pearl/International Backpackers Lagoon Breeze Villas Sanctuary/Rarotongan Beach Resort Waterfall/Wigmore’s Superstore Palm Grove Lodges Saltwater Cafe/Sea Change Villas Bella Beach/Royale Takitumu Villas Moana Sands Motel Little Polynesian/Maire Nui Garden Charlie’s Cafe/Raina Beach Apartments Fruits of Rarotonga Te Manava Villas Nautilus/Muri Beach Resort Muri Beachcomber Pacific Resort Muri Beach Club Hotel Sokala Villas/Kura’s Kabana/Tangaroa Cove Aroko Bungalows Avana Condos/Sunrise Beach Bungalows Tropical Sands Super Brown/Ariana Bunglows Kiikii Motel/Club Raro COOK’S CORNER BUS TERMINAL

Mins Past Hour 30 32 33 35 36 37 38 40 42 43 45 46 47 48 49 50 53 55 58 59 00 00 01 02 02 03 04 05 07 08 09 10 12 15 16 20

The Anti-Clockwise Bus departs Cook’s Corner Bus Terminal at 30mins past the hour. Mon- Fri - 8:30am to 4:30pm. Saturdays from 8:30am to 1:30pm

Sunday Schedule (April – Nov) – 8:00am to 12:00 midday and from 2:00pm to 4:00pm. There are no Sunday anticlockwise or night buses.

ESCAPE • 15

book worms

Rarotonga was a tropical paradise for Helen, Hugh and their family of four sons and one daughter. The lifestyle was a far cry from the sheltered upbringing of Auckland, where family and friends were only a phone call away. They struggled to make ends meet, but every day was a new challenge and adventure. Together they created a home where their two cultures and traditions intertwined. Above all, their household resonated with love, laughter and chaotic carefree days, as they brought up five barefoot children.

My Kotuku of the South Seas Helen Henry Helen Henry, daughter-in-law of the late Sir Albert Henry, Cook Islands’ first prime minister after the country became self-governing in 1965, publishes her remarkable life story, in My Kotuku of the South Seas.

Helen’s memoir depicts a simple life in a much simpler time. Helen’s memoir is rich in her descriptions of friendship, harmony and love. She weaves a simple tapestry of the life of her family as they follow their dreams and aspirations.

Helen grew up in a sheltered and happy home in a leafy suburb of Auckland, New Zealand. She was only 15 years of age when she fell passionately in love with Hugh, a Pacific Island boy, at a time when multi race marriages were frowned upon.

Hugh’s father, Sir Albert Henry, advised Helen of the problems and disillusionment she might encounter, but she was not deterred. In fact they were both more than ever determined to continue their relationship. Their romance blossomed and in 1961 they married.

16 • ESCAPE

There were moments of drama when they were caught up in the political turmoil of a small nation forging its own destiny. Helen experienced deep sadness and despair when Hugh suddenly and unexpectedly passed away. She was left to continue her journey alone. Out of the blue, Helen finds a second love and marries John Hay, an environmental scientist and Nobel Peace Prize winner. They share a love of traveling to exotic and exciting places around the world. However, most of all they enjoy relaxing on the verandah of their home in Rarotonga.

My Kotuku of the South Seas is one woman’s remarkably inspiring journey with strong threads of family, harmony and unity. In all her trying times, Helen finds constant solace in the appearance of ‘The Kotuku’ the beautiful bird she loved as a child and which she now recognizes as a symbol of enduring comfort.

Available from Bounty Bookshop, Avarua, or log on to: www.helenhenryraro.com for more information about this book.

The Art of Tivaevae Lynnsay Francis When Cook Islands writer Lynnsay Francis’ The Art of Tivaevae won the lifestyle section of the prestigious Montana New Zealand Book Awards back in 2002, she saw it more as a triumph for all Cook Islands women.

This is an attractive book with superb photographs by John Daley, it contains charming narratives from 23 women who relate the role tivaevae has in their lives and how they learnt the traditional art of making the magnificent traditional bed covers.

The Art of Tivaevae is a book that one will first flick through, until the stunning photographs and delightful real-life stories gradually draws one in. An interesting introduction gives the background of tivaevae and its role in Cook Islands.

Useful reference material for anyone wanting to learn more about the unique bed covers, are the three pages covering tivaevae making techniques.

Francis and the 23 women profiled deserve to be proud of this book. As Cook Islands scholar Rangi Moeka’a writes in his foreword, “The womenfolk here have not only taken the art of tivaevae making to the pinnacle of excellence, but

subconsciously expressed their innermost feelings of love and appreciation for their environment.” That statement is verified by the many exquisite works portrayed by Daley.

The book is dedicated by Francis to her five daughters and “the many women of the Cook Islands whom I have met who constantly inspire me.”

Hailing from New Zealand, Silk charts humble beginnings, to their inter-island heydays, until both boats, the Manuvai and the Mataora, ended up on outer island reefs, the fate of most traders.

His comments on Tahiti apply equally to all the islands: “People say Tahiti is not like it used to be. People are saying it now, they were saying it then, and Captain Cook said as much on his second voyage. I believe any time is the best time to see Tahiti. The sooner - the better! For it certainly won’t be the same again, ever.”

Pa and the Dolphins Jillian Sobieska A True Story of Pa, Rarotongan Hero and his Journey to Tahiti This spellbinding tale of one of Rarotonga’s most loved characters (the same Pa that escorts you on the Cross Island Walk) will delight children and adults alike.

From Kauri Trees to Sunlit Seas Don Silk Shoe-string shipping in the South Pacific For a light read, turn to Don Silk’s popular book From Kauri Trees to Sunlit Seas.

It’s like having a seat at the captain’s table; many are the salty yarns about leaks and creaks of inter-island shipping in the ‘70’s. Silk and his cargo crony Bob Boyd were a household name during the 1970’s and sometimes criticized; but this book exposes the exasperating realities of their lives and the challenges of their occupation, with good humour and compassion.

Well written and beautifully illustrated by Jillian Sobieska, a renowned Cook Islands artist, it tells the true story of Pa swimming in Tahiti and being hassled by a shark.

Believing his life to be in danger he prayed for help – and was rescued by dolphins.

Well that’s enough detail… do buy the book, its a little treasure.

Available from Jillian Sobieska: Tel 21079, or Bounty Bookshop

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ESCAPE • 17

what's in store Looking for that eco present then call into the Dive Centre and see Sabine’s recycled plastic rubbish bags, wallets, coin holders and more. The Dive Centre (the Big Fish) is located at Aro’a Beach on the western sunset side of Rarotonga.

See their advert on page 27.

For a selection of Cook Islands souvenirs from t shirts and caps to paddles and coasters call into any one of Treasure Chests 4 stores around Rarotonga. See their advert on page 26.

The famous “red oil” everyone asks for. Monoi oil is the perfect gift or fragrant keep sake that helps you keep your holiday tan. Available at CITC Pharmacy from $5.90. Sizes from 50ML to 1L and gift packs also available. See their advert page 50.

Tivaevae Collectables shop is located in their house opposite the weather station in Nikao. There you’ll find a great range of these marine quality ‘Sunbrella’ canvas cushion covers at $120.00. See their advert on page 13.

18 • ESCAPE

Perfumes of Rarotonga

Handmade

Island Perfumes and Gifts Come into Pacific Weave today to experience and learn about traditional culture through the beautiful art of weaving. Learn with our inspiring Artist & Traditional Weaver Nanave Taime using ‘Rito’ – a fibre made from the young coconut tree leaves. Visit Pacific Weave located in Panama next door to Perfumes of Rarotonga today to make an appointment or call us on 27535. Pacific Weave – Passing traditional knowledge to the next generations. See our advert on page 19.

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From Bergmans bespoke Nature Range – Blue Starfish Lariat, set with Sapphires, Diamonds and Cook Islands Black Pearls on an 18ct White Gold Chain. Call into Bergmans in downtown Avarua and see their advert on the back page.

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Cooks CoRneR, avaRua Phone: 24238

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Traditional jewellery that is ART. Volcanic rock pendants “ti’a Mangaia” from the southernmost island of the Cook Islands, Mangaia. Exquisitely hand carved pieces created by master carver Allan Tuara.

Exclusive to Moana Gems Pearl & Art Gallery. See their advert on page 45.

Great Cultural Experience!

PACIFIC WEAVE

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Rito Hat, Cook Islands handmade

Visit our factory:

For personalized gifts see Island Craft who make a variety of wooden gifts to order, from 21st keys to jewelry boxes. See their advert on page 14.

Handmade local Crafts products for your skin & Woven from around hair, island perfumes, the gifts and Pacific and Mauke Miracle Oil, Cook Islands 120 ml: souvenirs.

hand cooked oil with skin healing qualities.

Just before Airport - Panama, Call: Perfumes of Rarotonga: 25238, Pacific Weave 27535, Opening Hours: Mon-Fri 9:00 -ESCAPE 4:30, Sat 9:00-1:00, • 19 Onlineshop: www.perfumes.co.ck, www.facebook.com/PerfumesRaro

raro rhythm

a u t a p a P e n i a Tu

- The Music Man Story: Glenda Tuaine

As I arrive at the Assembly of God Church in Titikaveka I hear music playing interspersed with voices of young girls giving each other instructions.

Entering the hall and I come across the girls working through some choreographed moves and over on the other side of the room Tuaine Papatua, the man I am here to interview busying himself with cleaning. The room is set up with instruments, microphones and sound equipment and you can see at this Church music plays a large part in how they worship.

I call out to Tuaine who gives me a wave and I head over to him only to discover the singer that I am going to have a chat with has lost his voice due to cheering on his local footie team the day before.

The comedy of this not lost on me and my temptation to whisper back to him is immense but I control that urge and suggest we go and sit in a quiet space so I can capture his whisperings.

Tuaine Papatua arrived back in Rarotonga just over a year and half ago from Melbourne, and very quickly established himself on the music circuit, playing at a variety of locations around the island. He has a smooth easy listening style that appeals to a broad cross section of the market and when I ask him about that and

20 • ESCAPE

what he likes playing he responds, “Here I play a good range of popular music.

Tourists like to hear the songs they are familiar with, so when I play I look around and bring out the songs that can relate to them, but you know, in saying that I like to make songs mine, give them my style”. Indeed, that is what Tuaine enjoys doing, he loves to be an entertainer, and playing in Rarotonga he has plenty of opportunities to do what he loves.

As a musician and singer Tuaine started late explaining “In Australia I realised music was a part of me. I was going to a church that had a great Musical Director so I introduced myself and sat right behind him and sang my heart out! I was in my late 20’s. I thought this is me, this is my passion and I was hungry to learn”. From that point onward, he started building up his equipment and began volunteering for an Australian Charity “Helping Hands”, that assist people who are struggling by

providing food packs, clothing and support twice a year, once before winter hits and at Christmas time. Tuaine became a lead volunteer in the organisation and thrived in the multicultural environment playing music in parks, school grounds, shopping malls and carparks, wherever the Helping Hand event was he would play! Tuaine begins playing in Restaurants and Cafes in Melbourne mixing up his repertoire with Jazz, Blues, Rock and easy listening. When I ask him what he prefers to play a twinkle appears in his eye and he whispers, “I really like the Blues, blues is it for me but hey smooth funk and jazz with a full band I can do that too” he laughs.

It is during this period in Melbourne that he also sets about helping young people with music “I had a group of kids just jamming in a factory area we found. One of the managers from a shopping centre heard about us and gave us a building to practise in. That was when I made

in one last question. What is the dream?

“The dream is to finish my album, it is all my music, originals. I recorded some of it in Melbourne and am working on having it completed by mid next year; then I want to build a recording studio so I can help these kids with a music career. “ Tuaine Papatua is a great entertainer and a great community man so make sure you get along to see him I promise his voice will be fine, so long as his local football team play well!

Tuaine plays at the following venues: the decision that I wanted to study and become certified to teach music.”

Talking or should I say whispering with Tuaine you can tell his inner commitment to music, developing communities, especially youth, to have the skills to be great singers and musicians is what drives him. He has a gentle and warm manner and he engages with his audience and

his students in a way that is welcoming, open and caring. He now performs around the Island most nights and when he is not playing at a resort or bar he is usually booked for a wedding or birthday. He is a busy man with a music mission.

I realise that maybe we should wind up the interview after I notice the whisper is getting a little less audible but sneak

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ESCAPE • 21 Office Locations on Rarotonga — St Joseph Road | Downtown | Muri | Aroa | Edgewater | Rarotonga International Airport Flights Only

Rarotonga, the most populous of the Cook Islands, captivates about 120,000 hearts a year. Whether you’ve been here once or have been returning annually for decades, you know Rarotonga as paradise, an escape from the drudgery of traffic and consumerism, a window into a simpler past.

e s i d a r Pa Rarotonga – a pacific

O

nce you’ve visited an outer island, your perspective changes; you notice the modern conveniences available on Rarotonga, the trucks and supermarkets and nightclubs, but still you appreciate the pace of life. Still you notice that there aren’t any stoplights and the same musician greets every flight.

You notice that people wave at oncoming traffic. You notice there are only two bus routes: clockwise and anti-clockwise.

You notice that on Rarotonga, time slows down.

Photo: Kirby Morejohn

22 • ESCAPE

When there’s nothing on either television channel, when you don’t have easy access to Wi-Fi, you learn to be outside, smell the flowers, taste the fruit, appreciate the sun and stars, and commit to memory the natural beauty that’s been seducing travelers for centuries.

The first visitors to Rarotonga were the Māori people who came, depending on who you believe, from either Avaiki – the mythological centre of Polynesia – or East Asia or South America. Some continued on to settle New Zealand – you can read

Story: Rachel Reeves

about their canoes on plaques at Avana, the site of their departure – but others were hooked. They had travelled over thousands of kilometres, searching for islands, navigating not with GPS but by reading the stars, swells, and skies. They were migratory people, comfortable at sea, but on Rarotonga they built homes of coconut trunks and fronds, planted crops, and created a society in which everyone had enough to eat. Rarotonga’s inhabitants split into three villages – Takitumu, Te Au O Tonga, and Puaikura, each with its own governing chief.

Centuries later the Europeans arrived, and were also entranced by the island’s breathtaking beauty. A book written in 1842 documenting early missionary work describes Rarotonga this way: “its hills and valleys are rich in the fruits of the earth: mighty trees overshadow the land, and grow down to the very borders of the sea; not in a dense unwholesome forest, shutting out the light of the sun; but scattered here and there among the green hills, and affording a delicious shade; some are covered with beautiful flowers and some with light foliage, waving like plumes in the wind.”

Nearly 200 years later, Rarotonga’s splendour continues to make this kind of impact. Despite the luxury resorts and 24hour petrol stations that have since sprung from its soil, the island is still the kind of beautiful that makes your heart swell. You can’t watch an Arorangi sunset or climb one of Rarotonga’s mountains without feeling awestruck by the beautiful world we live in. You can’t drive a motorbike around the island, with the wind in your face and the salt on your skin, past coconut palms, banana and papaya trees, and remain undecided about whether you love this place.

Rarotonga might be just 32 kilometres around, but she is versatile, with creeks and swimming holes and waterfalls some locals don’t even know about. Take a walk or ride a scooter along the back road or into the mountains; hear the air get quieter and the birds get louder. Watch the bush get thicker. You won’t get lost if you remember to use the sound of the waves as your compass.

From the air The best way to see all of Rarotonga is from the air. If you miss the view when the plane lands, and if you’re willing to shell out the money, Air Rarotonga does private

aerial tours in a small Cessna. A cheaper option is to hike one of the island’s many peaks. Most require a tour guide, but a hike to The Needle, and across the middle of the island, is manageable and clearly marked. You’ll need good fitness and good shoes. Locals are friendly; ask anyone how to get to the start of the “cross-island walk” in Avatiu and they’ll point you in the right direction.

The first visitors to Rarotonga were the Māori people who came, depending on who you believe, from either Avaiki – the mythological centre of Polynesia – or East Asia or South America. Some continued on to settle New Zealand – you can read about their canoes on plaques at Avana, the site of their departure – but others were hooked.

The ascent is steep, but the view from the top makes the trudge worthwhile.

From The Needle, one of Rarotonga’s tallest mountains, you can see every shore, ringed by a translucent lagoon, the white foam of waves crashing on the reef, and the yawning blue Pacific. It’s the kind of view that makes you feel tiny and insignificant, but also like you rule the world.

Descending down the other side of The Needle will lead you to Wigmore’s Waterfall, one of the locals’ favourite swimming spots.

For a more informative cross-island experience, book a tour with Pa, a traditional healer who grew up climbing

ESCAPE • 23

cycling, quad, or buggy tours that go around the island; or hire bicycles (either manual or electric) to explore the side and back roads.

You can take photos of the abandoned Sheraton – a hotel that was never finished because its developer, who had links to the Italian mafia, disappeared. If you believe the local legend, a curse on the land stalled the project. In Titikaveka, you can visit Maire Nui gardens, a sprawling, carefully manicured jungle with a quaint café. There are several art galleries around the island, and you can buy handcrafted mountains and studying the medicinal properties of plants. Pa takes tourists across the island six days a week.

From the water To behold Rarotonga from the sea is to channel the joy its settlers must have felt. They would have been at once weary from the long voyage and awestruck by the dramatic mountains and white-sand beaches of their new home.

There are dozens of ways to experience this view.

You can spend the day on a fishing charter, casting for deep-sea fish under the tropical sun, or you can take a ride on a glass-bottom boat. Both Captain Tamas Lagoon Cruizes and Koka Lagoon Cruises make daily trips to Koromiri, a motu (islet) off Muri Beach. Each tour features a local string band and a barbecued lunch of freshly caught fish. At low tide, the Muri lagoon is shallow enough to walk to the motu with a picnic lunch and a towel.

Dive shops hire out snorkeling gear, and the best place to see marine life is in an area protected by a ra’ui – a traditional ban on fishing and collecting seafood, imposed and lifted by chiefs. Signs mark the ra’ui; most snorkelers prefer the ra’ui at Fruits of Rarotonga in Tikioki and at The Rarotongan Resort & Spa in Arorangi. If you’re a certified SCUBA diver – or if you want to get certified – visit one of the three dive shops on the island.

24 • ESCAPE

You can rent kayaks, take yoga classes on stand-up paddleboards or sign up for a kitesurfing lesson. You can swim to The Boiler – what’s left of the SS Maitai, shipwrecked in 1916 – and then jump off it into the sea.

If you prefer to stay on the shore, engage with the sea by watching an outrigger canoe race, held weekly during the sport’s season. In November teams arrive from all over the world to compete in Vaka Eiva, an international paddling competition and Rarotonga’s largest sporting event.

Between the months of July and October, be on the lookout for whales. You can learn more about them at the Whale & Wildlife Centre in Atupa.

And if you’re a surfer, you know the drill: respect the locals. It’s their wave.

On land There’s always something to do on Rarotonga. There’s sport to watch – on Saturdays, village clubhouses host rugby, rugby league, netball, cricket, lawn bowling, and soccer matches, depending on the season. They also throw socials afterward, with cheap drinks and low entry fees.

There’s a nine-hole golf course in Nikao, with a bar and eatery inside its clubhouse, and two miniature golf courses in Arorangi.

There’s also a driving range in Vaimaanga.

You can play paintball and laser tag; take

ukuleles from inmates at the Arorangi Prison.

The Punanga Nui marketplace on a Saturday morning is an essential itinerary item. For locals, it’s a social outing; everyone goes. From 6 a.m., you can visit the open-air market to get your fresh nu (coconut water) and local fruits and vegetables. You can also buy cooked food, both international – the crepes and waffles are popular – and local delicacies.

There’s something for every eater, from smoothies to stir-fry to sausage rolls. The Punanga Nui market is also a one-stop souvenir shop. You can buy everything from island music to large handmade quilts to coconut oil to hand-painted pareu (sarongs). Mamas sell hats and bags woven out of coconut fibre. Pearl farmers sell their black pearls, cultivated and harvested on the island of Manihiki, 1100 kilometres north of Rarotonga.

If you miss the Punanga Nui market, there are souvenir shops around the island, most of them in Avarua, where you can pick up something for friends and family members who had the great misfortune of not joining you in paradise.

A special way to immerse in the island culture is to attend a Sunday service at the Cook Islands Christian Church. The Cook Islands, like much of Polynesia, readily embraced Christianity; though the missionaries ruled in authoritarian ways,

imposing outrageous fines and penalties on the disobedient, their gospel stuck. Church is a pillar of any Cook Islands community, both at home and overseas. Congregations are welcoming if you dress modestly, behave respectfully, and take some gold coins for the offering plate. The power of the imene tuki – a blend of traditional chanting and Christian hymns – will stir your soul.

Two museums in Avarua – the government-run National Museum and the private Cook Islands Library & Museum Society – are excellent resources for those seeking more information about Rarotonga and its history. The latter hires out books, or you can buy beach reads at Bounty Bookshop in Avarua.

For beautiful food to suit any palette, try one of Rarotonga’s many restaurants; more information is available within the pages of this magazine. Whether you’re in the mood for freshly caught fish, a burger, pizza from a wood-fired oven, French fare, or Asian fusion, Rarotonga’s got a restaurant for you.

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From your seat Celebrations of culture occur almost nightly. Attending an “island night” a must during a holiday to Rarotonga. You get a chance to watch local dancing, energetic and sensuous, and hear local drumming, reportedly the best in the Pacific. If you dread the limelight, beware the ura piani, when dancers recruit tourists of the opposite sex for a number.

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At an island night, you’ll also get to try local food. Dishes like ika mata (fresh raw fish in coconut cream), rukau (taro leaves in coconut cream), taro, and poke (arrowroot and coconut cream with a pudding-like texture) are available at some shops and restaurants, but at an island night you can have them all, buffet-style.

Hotels and cultural centres offer island nights for a range of budgets; talk to your accommodator about your options.

Come in to view our extensive range clothing, Comeofinsarongs, to view island our extensive footwear and t-shirts.

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If you’re on Rarotonga in August, you’ll get to experience the ultimate celebration of Cook Islands culture. A bit of background: Rarotonga’s chiefs consented to becoming a British protectorate in 1888; all of the Cook Islands were later handed over to colonisers from New Zealand. In 1965, the country became self-governing, and every August, Rarotonga holds a festival to celebrate. Called Te Maeva Nui, the weeklong event features a parade of floats decorated with local foliage and a spectacular nightly show at the National Auditorium, in which villages and islands compete in singing, dancing, and drumming.

Weddings Rarotonga is a popular spot for destination weddings; hundreds of tourists get married here each year. On-island wedding planners can design a special ceremony on the beach, and liaise with hair and makeup artists, caterers, a celebrant, and photographers/videographers before you arrive. All you have to do is bring your loved ones and prepare mentally for a wedding you won’t soon forget.

Cook Islanders are notoriously generous people, some of the most hospitable in the world. They will make you feel welcome, as long as you treat them with respect, the way you would anyone who invites you into her home. Be mindful of the fragile island environment also; as the travel adage goes, take nothing but photos and leave nothing but footprints.

But above all, enjoy yourself and a place that makes you feel a little bit more alive.

When you leave, you will join the ranks of hundreds of thousands of people around the world who think often of, and talk often about, Rarotonga, who dream of the day they’ll return.

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At the beautiful Aroa Marine Reserve look for: ESCAPE • 27

island cuisine

AQUA CAFÉ Muri Beach Resort A hidden treasure tucked away on the tranquil southern end of Muri Beach, Rarotonga’s only eco-friendly resort, Muri Beach Resort, offers affordable luxury.

This relaxed and laid-back boutique resort is absolute beachfront on Muri Beach in Rarotonga. With 20 newly refurbished modern beach bach style villas, you will feel like you are at your home away from home. And at the same time, you will be supporting the resorts eco-friendly initiatives to reduce your carbon footprint and the environment that we exist in. The resort has its own power supply with an extensive solar system, operating off the grid – a unique resort being the only one in the Cook Islands to operate like this.

These spacious and very well-appointed self-contained villas and apartments, are scattered over 2.5 acres - some beachfront, others set amongst tropical gardens – all with the mod cons of air-con, kitchenettes and with the unique feature of a Jacuzzi spa bath in each villa. Need we say more? This is perfectly styled for those who like the ‘comforts of home’ – and when you want to leave the cooking to others, there is the trendy little Polynesian style cafe & cocktail bar overlooking the swimming pool, and a stunning awardwinning restaurant next door in the stylish sister hotel Nautilus Resort.

Aqua Café Bar – the resorts trendy al fresco café and cocktail bar, located overlooking the resorts centrally placed swimming pool, will welcome you home from a day of exploring the island with a happy hour daily. You will be enticed to wind down with one of the local staff’s famous COD’s – cocktail of the day! Be surprised and delighted daily with a new concoction each day – often served in a pineapple glass! Compliment your daily

28 • ESCAPE

cocktail with a selection from our chef’s irresistible tapas menu. Or perhaps you would like to share a pizza or a range of inventive tacos – all the rage! With the kitchen and bar open from 3pm daily, afternoon snacks with friends can flow through to dinner by the pool. The light and fresh menu serves a selection to suit the tastes of virtually everyone, as we do cater for those with special dietary needs too. Soak up the serenity of the relaxed poolside dining while savouring the flavours of the chef’s gourmet delights available to eat in or take away. Famous for our Tacos – our crew of international chefs have created a taco menu to set the taste buds off, with creative combinations of local and imported meats and salads or vegetables - you have to try the tacos filled with slow cooked pulled pork and island slaw, chicken popcorn with pineapple salsa or locally caught fish with salsa verde. And a must try is the Chocolate & Banana dessert pizza to finish the night! Using the freshest of local ingredients, and our fish of the day is straight off the boat, the tantalizing flavours are sure to have you coming back for more.

Open from 3.00pm for afternoon snacks and dinner. Meeting with friends for a cocktail or wining and dining with that someone special in your life, Aqua Cafe can cater for your needs.

Getting married? This venue provides a wonderfully intimate location to host a wedding celebration. Muri Beach Resort and Aqua Café are the perfect location – with the stunning beachfront location for your ceremony and to kick off the celebrations with a cocktail party overlooking the lagoon as the sun sets

then a short 30 sec stroll to the poolside venue for dinner, dancing and fun! The resort specialises in co-ordinating elegant, intimate and romantic island weddings.

With the beachfront location, the beachfront deck or the resorts white sandy beach have both proved very popular, having a stunning backdrop of the tropical palm-fringed Ta'akoka Islet and the crystal turquoise waters of Muri Lagoon. A photographers dream! Then carry on the celebrations with family & friends in the Polynesian style reception space to finish off the perfect day. This venue caters for weddings and wedding receptions of up to 60 guests. Experience the Polynesian flare for your island celebration with your family and friends and make your special day a truly memorable one. Your hosts will take care of everything for you – accommodation for the bridle couple and their group, ceremony arrangements, reception, entertainment, and any other services you need on the day, right down to the last details. Wedding & Reception packages available.

Aqua Café • Ph 22779

Located at PUNGANA NUI MARKET (BESIDE THE PLAYGROUND), AVARUA

c i t n e h t u A e n i s i u Asian C A TAST E OF A S I A

Sashimi & Carpaccio Ika Mata Seafood Platters Fish, Chips & Salad Gourmet Sandwiches

Fish N Chips $13.00

All day breakfast And heaps more

A short stroll east of town | Phone - 28830 Now with online menu - www.bamboojacks.net

Ika Mata $10.00

Mon 8am – 4pm Tues – Fri 8am – 9pm Sat 8am – 2pm

Fishermans Platter $18.00

We also have an air-conditioned private room for dining & meetings (with conference facilities)

P. 23 577 Phone orders welcome Mon – Sat 6:30am – 4pm

P. 23 575 Phone orders welcome

No.1 ! for seafood Fresh Sushi Cabinet food daily Freshly squeezed Juice Boosts Healthy & delicious Smoothies Espresso Coffee & Cake And heaps more

Located beside the playground Punanga Nui Market, Avarua

try our

Pizza Shack eat in or take out

Best chocolate brownie in Raro!

PH 26464 • info@traderjacks.co.ck

tortilla, that famous fresh fish, and packed to the brim with crisp local salad - we were impressed to say the least.

What says “The Islands” more than nu (coconut water)? It is said that Nu is full of electrolytes which hydrate you faster than water. We ordered a couple of sweet, chilled nu, served in the coconut. A good option after a morning in the sun. Fresh juices and espresso coffee are also on offer and the “Body Fuel” half of the café serves a tasty array of smoothies and health drinks.

BITE TIME Punanga Nui market When you ask the locals where to eat and everybody says the same place, you know you’re in for a treat. That is how we stumbled across Bite Time Café in the centre of Avarua (town) nested in the middle of the row of little market shacks next to the reclaimed land at the Punanga Nui market.

An impressive display of acrobatics by a passing by humpback whale just metres from our table really worked up our appetite. The reef is close enough here so that you can see the whales from your table if you’re lucky enough to be there when one is passing.

We were torn between ordering the sashimi or their famed fish wrap - both made with outrageously fresh fish (caught literally hours before) - so of course we ordered both! The sashimi, with an oily sheen (we are told only visible on the freshest fish) was smothered in a mixture of olive oil, garlic, ginger and herbs, making a tropical take on carpaccio our new favourite dish. The fish wrap is a healthy alternative for the religious fishand-chip-orderer, made with a warm, soft

30 • ESCAPE

The food was quick, healthy, and delicious, which of course meant room for dessert.

After perusing the chiller cabinet, we decided it was only fair to sample a chocolate brownie. Still warm from the oven, this was the perfect way to top off a cracking meal. There are usually a few options for dessert – all homemade – including ginger slices, muffins, pies, and cakes. My suggestion though is go for the brownie – a huge sticky chocolaty slab that’s big enough to share.

Whilst lunch time is popular with both locals and visitors to the island, Bite Time now opens two nights a week for the die-hard fans. Friday’s menu is a mixture of the daytime favourites plus a seafood chowder, steak, and pork dishes. Tuesday nights celebrate the Filipino culinary fare, a hit among the growing Filipino population of the Cook Islands.

It would be remiss not to mention the eco-initiatives this little café with the big reputation has implemented in recent months. They were the first café on Rarotonga to reward coffee drinkers for bringing their own cup, with $3 espresso coffees. More recently, they have partnered with local environmental NGO Te Ipukarea Society to replace plastic straws with paper, biodegradable ones. They plan to have replaced all plastic packaging with more earth-friendly alternatives by the start of 2018. It’s great to see local businesses taking the lead in protecting this little paradise and their booming tourism industry.

Bite Time • Ph 23577

Tapas at

Tuoro Licensed

Great Food!

Great Views!

Great Service!

Lunchtime casual dining with a selection of flavoursome tapas.

All homemade using fresh local produce that will tantalise your taste-buds at very affordable prices. Black Rock Lager on tap.

Located in a tropical garden at Black Rock Villas with superb elevated views over the lagoon & ocean. Live music on Sundays.

Bookings Advised Wednesday to Friday 12 - 3pm Sunday 11 - 3pm

ph. 21233

blackrok@oyster.net.ck ESCAPE • 31 www.blackrockvillas.com

OCEANS RESTAURANT Crown Beach Resort Oceans Restaurant & Bar is situated on the beachside of Crown Beach Resort & Spa in Arorangi. This is a must visit dining option while on holiday in Rarotonga.

Enjoy a meal in our Polynesian designed restaurant or on the beach overlooking the crystal-clear lagoon. We cater 7 days a week for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Start your day off with our breakfast buffet while looking out over the beautiful Pacific Ocean. We feature a full tropical breakfast accompanied with cooked options and an a la carte egg menu.

Breakfast is open to anyone and is from 7.30am – 10am.

Stop by for lunch and enjoy some of the Cook Islands favourite dishes such as the mouth-watering Ika Mata and fresh Sashimi. Our lunch menu caters for everyone! Whether you are looking for something nice and light or are completely famished, it is guaranteed you will find something tasty on our menu.

Oceans Restaurant is a local favourite for dinner. We offer our a la carte menu Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday nights.

Our menu is a mix between local and traditional European cuisine where our chefs use fresh, local produce in every dish possible. This menu is also tailored to suit several dietary requirements. The atmosphere at Oceans is friendly and fun with 4 all you can eat themed nights a week.

32 • ESCAPE

To kick off the week we have a Sunday Night Roast buffet. This is a traditional all you can eat American meal with ham, lamb, and beef roasts accompanied with fresh made bread rolls and a mix of local and traditional vegetables.

a perfect place to either start your day with breakfast or finish it off with the sand between your toes and a cocktail in your hand! Come visit our friendly staff and watch the sun set across the horizon of the beautiful Pacific Ocean.

All you can eat seafood is Tuesday nights with our Seafood Buffet. This buffet has everything imaginable on it! We have freshly caught local cooked and raw fish.

We also have local octopus, scallops, calamari, the iconic Ika Mata (raw fish marinated in coconut cream), prawns, arrays of seafood salads, and more! This buffet is a must for any seafood lover, local or tourist!

Oceans Restaurant • Ph 23953

Thursday nights we host our famous traditional Island Night Buffet and Show.

Serenading the evening is some of Rarotonga’s best local artists. Dinner is an all you can eat buffet that showcases Rarotonga’s traditional local dishes and locally grown and caught foods. Even though the food is to die for, make sure you save room for dessert; for the dessert buffet is almost as big as the dinner buffet!

The desserts are mixes of traditional island desserts and classic European desserts. After the food we introduce one of Rarotonga’s best traditional dance troupes, Akirata. These young men and women show off our Islands history and culture within their beautiful dancing and mesmerizing handmade costumes.

On Friday nights we serve some of the best grilled meats around with our Steak, Fish, and Ribs night. You can choose one of three meats which is cooked fresh to order and delivered to your table accompanied with tarragon potatoes or French fries. To either tide you over until your meat arrives or accompany the mouth-watering dish, we have an all you can eat salad buffet.

Our chefs prepare fresh local salads for our patrons that enhance any of the meat dishes you decide to order.

We host a daily Happy Hour from 4pm – 6pm with $2 off all drinks! Throughout the day we also have $20 beer buckets and $10 cocktails. Oceans Restaurant is

MURI VILLAGE

Casual and friendly Asian street-style café

Fresh flavours of Mexico for dinner, plus fresh fish, pizza, vegan, and gluten free.

Vietnamese, Indonesian, Chinese, Malaysian, Thai

Open for Dinner from 5.30pm Closed Thursdays

See you there amigo!

P. 20693 or 26487

TAMARIND HOUSE

RESTAURANT & BAR

Open for dinner from 5.30pm Closed Sunday

Muri Village

Phone: 22232 or 26487

Fresh tropical cuisine

Unique al fresco dining in town

LUNCH: TUES – FRI 11.30 AM – 2 PM (CLOSED MON AND SAT LUNCH)

Extensive choice of vegan and fish dishes

DINNER: MON – SAT FROM 5.30 PM SUNDAY BRUNCH: (APRIL – OCTOBER) FROM 9 AM – 1.30 PM

A beautiful heritage colonial house, located on the seafront, just 3 minutes from the town centre.

Dine by candlelight in the peaceful seclusion of a romantic tropical setting.

Delicious food to suit all tastes

WOOD FIRED WOOD FIRED WOOD FIRED &

MO & &RE

M E R MO E O R OPEN OPEN 6 DAYS DAYS LUNCH • DINNER

66

LUNCH • DINNER OPEN DAYS OPEN DAYS FAMILY PRICES FAMILY PRICES LUNCH LUNCH •• DINNER DINNER

PRICES EAT IN AWAY EATFAMILY IN OR OR TAKE TAKE AWAY FAMILY PRICES LUNCH MENU LUNCH MENU LUNCH MENU Assorted salads Assorted salads Assorted Salads EAT • INChoice OR TAKE AWAY of wraps Choice of wraps • Choice of Wraps Pizzas Pizzas Pizzas • Woodfired

EAT IN OR TAKE AWAY LUNCH LUNCH MENU MENU Assorted salads DINNER MENU DINNER MENU Assorted salads DINNER MENU Pizzas & sides Choice of Pizzas & sides Woodfired Pizzas & Sides Choice of wraps wraps Pizzas Pizzas

Lunch Tuesday to LunchTUESDAY Tuesday TO to Friday Friday LUNCH FRIDAY 11am – 2pm 11am–- MENU 11am 2pm DINNER

DINNER MENU Pizzas & Dinner Monday to DINNER MONDAY TOSaturday SATURDAY & sides sides DinnerPizzas Monday to Saturday 3pm 9pm 4pm ––- 9pm 3pm 9pm

THE PERFECT VENUE FOR YOUR WEDDING OR PRIVATE FUNCTION

EMAIL tamarind@oyster.net.ck www.tamarindrarotonga.com

Open early morning until late Mon to Sat

PHONE 26487

Ph 22279 or 22299

newplace@oyster.net.ck

Lunch Tuesday to Friday Located the Markets Lunch Tuesday toNui Located opposite opposite the Punanga Punanga NuiFriday Markets (next to the Bond Liquor store) (next to the Bond Liquor store) 11am – 2pm 11am – 2pm

PH PH 23336 23336 •• MOB MOB 53330 53330 Dinner Monday Dinner Monday to to Saturday Saturday 3pm ESCAPE 3pm –– 9pm 9pm • 33

TRADER JACKS BAR & GRILL Trader Jacks is an institution in the Cook Islands, located right on the water in the heart of Avarua Harbour.

The Vaka bar is open throughout the day serving ice cold beers including their own locally brewed ‘Island Time’ lager alongside a huge range of reasonably priced and tasty cocktails, mocktails, spirits and wines.

The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner, but make sure you book for this busy dining destination.

“Many of our friends had told us that Trader Jacks was a ‘must do’ experience but we had no idea what to expect when we walked in on a lazy Friday afternoon.

We were greeted at the bar by a polite and friendly young man who produced the very comprehensive drinks menu.

We were too early for dinner, but it was a stunning afternoon and we were ready for a drink. We were informed that if we were hungry or just needed a snack to tide us through, the pizza shack was open all day. Our barman pointed out some of the most popular cocktails including one that they served directly from the beer taps!

My husband had to try the local draught produced only five minutes away; an easy drinking, light lager, perfect to cool and refresh on a spring afternoon. I opted to work my way through some of the cocktail selection, the first cocktail served in a coconut – the perfect way to start the holiday in a tropical paradise.

Sitting right beside the ocean, with delicious drinks in hand, life couldn’t get much sweeter, and then the whales started to jump! Breaching right out of the water only 50 metres past the reef, it was like they were putting on a show just for the Trader Jacks’ guests.

After a good sampling of the drinks selection, it was time to move up to our table on the deck for dinner. The manager escorted us to our seat overlooking the beach and guided us through the huge range of specials and Traders’ favourite dishes. Our waitress had worked at Trader Jacks for over ten years; she was friendly, knowledgeable and great for a laugh. We took her up on her recommendation for the seafood platter for two but started with a mozzarella and basil flat bread. The pizza dough is rolled to order with basil pesto, garlic butter and mozzarella cheese.

We were so impressed that it lasted about thirty seconds and we considered ordering another.

Then came the platter, it was massive and included a great range of fresh seafood.

We were served ‘Ika Mata’ (a local raw fish and coconut delicacy), oysters, prawns, smoked marlin, grilled mai mai, crumbed calamari, tuna sashimi and sushi, soft shell crab and topped with a stunning crayfish tail. This was truly ‘food heaven’. It was such an amazing dish. There was no way to fit in dessert so we ordered a delicious sticky toffee pudding to take away.

Now it was time for a nightcap but the band had started to play so we decided

34 • ESCAPE

to move back to the Vaka bar. They were incredible and read the crowd perfectly allowing us to dance off our huge meal.

By the end of the evening we were contemplating moving in and living permanently at Trader Jacks. The staff were open, warm and professional, the atmosphere was relaxed and the view over the ocean, stunning. In our two week holiday, Traders became our local. We can easily see why it has developed into such an icon in Rarotonga; truly a jewel in the Cook Islands.”

Open Monday to Saturday from 11am – late. Restaurant serves lunch 11.30am – 2pm & dinner from 6pm. Pizzas run all day and into the night.

Ph 26464 www.traderjackscookislands.com

c

on

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r

ne

in a

t ai

Casual Beach Side Cafe Authentic Thai food, tasty Mexican, burgers, fish and chips, coffee home-made desserts + we’re fully licensed.

Opening Hours Sunday to Thursday 8.30am - 2.30pm Ph 20020 Find us on your map at the halfway mark down South at Titikaveka...

SALTWATER CAFE - RAROTONGA 2013 & 2016

ESCAPE • 35

www.themooringfishcafe.com

La Chaine des Rotisseurs Cook Islands and JCR “Young Chefs of the World” – Frankfurt, Germany, September 8th 2017

T

he Chaine des Rotisseurs Cook Islands organized the JCR “Young Chef of the Nation” competition for young chefs in Rarotonga.

The finalist and winner was 22-year-old Puka Pukaborn Ngmatua (Tua) Ngaro Tariau from OTB On The Beach Restaurant at Manuia Beach Resort.

This is the first time in history a Cook Islander took part in the most prestigious, and internationally recognized as the most difficult competition in the world. The winning finalists from around the world compete with little more than their knife set. Other basic cooking equipment will be provided by the host country.

Competitors are given a secret magic box with ingredients to write a menu, prepare, cook and serve a fine dining 3-course menu for 4 persons. Once the first course is served, each following course must be served within 15 minutes.

36 • ESCAPE

According to the Bailli Délégué (President) of the Cook Islands Chaine chapter, Phillip Nordt, the Cook Islands is purposely increasing its profile as a sought-after destination for travelers who enjoy culinary experiences on their vacations.

21 nations were competing at the IB Hotel Competition Salon in Frankfurt. Countries like the USA, Canada, France, Germany, Norway, Singapore, Australia, Switzerland, Netherlands, Sweden, Norway, Finland, Malaysia and now the Cook Islands.”

Only places 1-3 are awarded and the winner takes home a price package of around $ 30, 000.00, including a Scholarship at the prestigious “Le Cordon Bleu” in Paris. Every competitor was gifted pure silver equipment and jewellery from Wempe Jeweler Frankfurt and Mr. Wuesthoff from Trident personally handed the newest Trident chefs knife to every competitor.

The winners emerged as first place being Malaysia, second place Netherlands and third place Australia. While the Cook Islands were not placed in the top three, just qualifying for this event is an honour and a great once in a lifetime achievement.

The competitor can only enter the international competition once.

Cook Island Tourism part-sponsored the event and we thank them very much, as without their assistance we could not have competed. The Cook Island competitor made his country proud and received a standing ovation for his great efforts.

“Ultimately, we are trying to bring the young chefs of the world competition to the Cook Islands sometime in the future.

That would certainly put the Cook Islands on the culinary world map!

“Overall we want to encourage visitors to come here for the food – another good reason to enjoy the Cook Islands!”

With 25,000 members worldwide, the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is represented in over 80 countries bringing together enthusiasts who share the same values of quality, fine dining, the encouragement of the culinary arts, and ‘the pleasures of the table’.

CAFES & RESTAURANTS

Bamboo Jacks, Taputaputea Ph 28830

Please support these advertisers for making it free for you to take your copy home.

The New Place, Avarua Ph 22279 or 22299

RAROTONGA

Bite Time/ Body Fuel, Punanga Nui Ph 23577/ 23575 La Casita, Muri Village Ph 20693 OTB, Arorangi Ph 22461 Shipwreck Hut @ Aro’a Beachside Inn Ph 22166 Trader Jacks, Avarua Ph 26464 Oceans @ Crown Beach Ph 23953 Tumunu, Arorangi Ph 20501

Kai Pizza, Punanga Nui Ph 23336 or 53330

Nautilus Resort, Muri Village Ph 25125 The Rickshaw, Muri Village Ph 22232 Club Raro, Tupapa Ph 22415 Little Polynesian, Titikaveka Ph 24280 Silver Sands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel Ph 2300

CAFES & RESTAURANTS AITUTAKI

Deli Licious, Muri Village Ph 20858

Aitutaki Village @ O’otu Beach Ph 31526

Pacific Resort, Muri Village Ph 20427

Rumours Café @ Aitutaki Escape Ph 31906

Flambe @ Crown Beach Ph 23953

Boatshed @ Popoara Ph 31479

The Yellow Hibiscus @ Palm Grove Ph 20002

Koru Café Ph 31110

The Mooring Fish Café, Avana Ph 25553

Tamanu Beach Restaurant Ph 31810

Tuoro Café @ Black Rock Villas Ph 21233

Pacific Resort Aitutaki Ph 31720

Saltwater Café, Turoa Ph 20020

Check out our ‘all-day’ breakfast menu and join us for awesome coffee, friendly service and great home style cooking.

Try our custard square and cheesecake – local favourites!

Open Sunday – Friday 8.00am – 3pm Located on the main road at Muri Village.

Wifi available.

P. 20858

Aqua Restaurant @ Muri Beach Resort Ph 22779 Kikau Hut, Arorangi Ph 26860 Tamarind House, Tupapa Ph 26487

ESCAPE • 37

gone fishing Story: Phillip Nordt

The short-nosed Marlin or SPIA as it is locally called, is better eating than its larger cousin the Marlin, but only insiders know that this fish has intricate big flavours when properly prepared. The texture of the meat is also more tender and it should be cooked to medium. SPIA is often smoked and used in fish pies, but today we are looking for a much more elegant way to serve this interesting Fish. Because of its robust flavours and firm texture, I will apply Italian and Mexican preparation methods and we will showcase 3 outstanding dishes.

SPIA

1 tsp Cajun spice mix, `1 teaspoon ground coriander, pinch of Cinnamon 1 x Habanero chilli, deseeded and sliced into julienne (matchsticks) 1 x Pablamo chilli roasted, 1 x red pepper roasted, deskinned, both pounded into a paste 6 Kaffir Limes or other limes, juice and zest of 1 lime, julienne of lime leaf 2 Red Peppers, slice julienne 4 green Onions, sliced julienne 1 red onion sliced julienne Cos Lettuce, sliced Julienne Arugula pulled 4 tbsp Extra Virgin Coconut Oil (RITO) Salt Pepper to taste Method

3 Ways

(serves 4 people)

1/

© Marlin Queen

Ceviche of Blackened Spia,

Heat non-stick pan to high heat, mix spice mix and lightly coat the Spia slices, pan

folded 4 x green onions 1 x coriander pulled 2 x tomato, de-seeded, sliced in strips 1 x chilli de-seeded julienne thinly sliced 1 x local lime juice 1 x iceberg lettuce chiffonade sliced 4 x tbsp guacamole 4 x tbsp sour cream Method Season and grill the fish fillets and set aside

Lettuce in bottom, top with tomato, onions,

into 1 cm and place in a bowl.

add fish, top with lime juice guacamole &

the lime and the other 3 limes

coconut oil, kaffir lime zest juice and

Add the Lime juice to the Fish slices and

leaves, salad of herbs, cos lettuce, 1 x

marinate for 2-3 minutes

rocket/arugula

Make a Salad of the other ingredients and dress with Olive Oil then toss in the fish slices Use 4 large Cos leaves for presentation and serve the ceviche in the Cos leaves

38 • ESCAPE

4 x large, soft corn taco shells, toasted and

Start assembling with toasted tacos, add

peppers, fresh green onions, bush basil,

thick slices

4 x 75 g Spia fillets

dark brown, set aside to cool, then slice

Grate 1 Lime, slice the leaf thinly, then juice

300 g fresh Spia or Marlin, sliced into 1 cm

Ingredients

sear each slice ½ minute on each side until

habanero & pablamo chilli, local

Ingredients

Spicy Spia

2/ Fish Taco

sour cream garnish with Coriander & chilli

3/

Char-grilled Spia

Pre-heat large frying pan, add ½ the coconut Oil, then add onions and garlic and whole

roasted Upo (local squash), Phillips fresh

chillies, sweat until transparent, drain the

Island style Tomato Sauce

tomatoes and add to onions, sauté and cook down, seasoning while doing

Ingredients 4 x 200 g fresh Spia Fish or Marlin

Add the remaining coconut oil season to taste and cook for another 15 minutes,

1 x Peeled Upo, cut into 3 cm thick slices

stirring occasionally

1 kg ripe but firm local tomatoes

Season the Upo slices well and fry from both

1 White Onion cut into Brunoise, fine dice

sides until nicely browned and slight soft and

1 Garlic Bulb, separate cloves, crush and

cooked.

finely slice

Season fish well with coarse black Pepper

2 x Birds Eye Chilli

and sea salt and char-grill to medium rare,

100 ml Extra virgin Coconut Oil 1 tbsp sugar 1 tsp salt 1 Bunch fresh Bush Basil Maire Method – Phillips fresh Island style Tomato Sauce De-skin and de-seed Tomatoes, cut into fine dice set aside

when set aside warm this fish will continue cooking until medium Plating Take 4 warm plates, place the Upo in the centre of the plate and set the Spia fish on top, season again, then lace with tomato Sauce and Garnish with the Bush Basil.

Enjoy & Bon Appetit with today’s Fish SPIA

with Why come fishing

us?

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• Half & Full Day Charters • Three boats available • Shared or Private charters • Top quality Shimano gear P. +(682) 55202 or +(682) 20683 E. fishing@marlinqueen.co.ck | www.marlinqueen.co.ck

Rarotonga’s best known & most trusted local crew ESCAPE • 39

i k i h i n a M c i g a M Story & photos: Tim Meyer

T

he endless azure horizon, the omnipresent sound of waves crashing onto the reef, a light breeze gently moving the coconut palm fronds and the sun dipping everything in vibrant, tropical colours. On a normal quiet Sunday afternoon on Manihiki, a black tip reef shark is patrolling the shallow reefs as I am writing this story, sitting in the shade of my favourite Tauhunu Tree – behind the Manihiki Cyclone Centre.

40 • ESCAPE

Manihiki is the pearl of the Northern Group of the Cook Islands. Located 1,000 km north of Rarotonga and roughly 1,350 km south of the equator, the hidden gem of this country is world famous for its Black Pearls. The lustre that the Manihiki pearl farmers are producing is second to none on this blue planet. With the earth being made up of two thirds water and one third land, Manihiki takes the term blue planet to a whole other level. The tiny little atoll in the middle of the Pacific is only half a meter above sea level and is a mere spec of sand in the vastness of the Pacific Ocean. Toddlers learn how to fish before they can properly walk! Manihiki is as close to paradise as you can get to on this planet.

The main sources of income for the people in Manihiki are Black Pearl farming and government positions. With very few visitors finding their way this far north due to limited access, tourism is not part of the economic development of this beautiful island.

I found myself on Manihiki through my involvement in the Lagoon Clean-Up Project generously funded by the New Zealand Government and operated

by Pacific Divers. The project assisted with the removal of abandoned farming material in order to help protect this pristine lagoon. For the last five months, I was fortunate to work alongside some of the best and most experienced pearl farmers that have operated in this incredible lagoon, namely Trainee Samson, Pepe Makira, James Brown, Jack Pokipoki, Joe Hiro, John Mehau and one of the most experienced divers of the atoll Rino Mareko. A second-generation farmer Tamuela Karaponga and his mother Nga Karaponga from Manihiki Pearl Tech have invited me to spend a day out harvesting with them and their crew to show me the beautiful and technical side of farming.

This once in a lifetime opportunity gave me the chance to appreciate the hard work, time and patience that is behind the stunning Black Pearl of Manihiki.

A day in the life of a pearl farmer Pearl farming is a year-round affair and during the harvest that lasts between one to three weeks, days start before sunrise and end after sunset.

Today, Tamuela Karaponga's team from Samuela Pearl Service consists of his brother Kaina Karaponga, Koa Arii, Alex Samson and myself. We leave the wharf at 5.45am to arrive on the farm before sunrise. The 10 minutes boat ride in itself was worth waking up at dawn on a Saturday. The sun is still down, the water is calm, and the warm breeze sets

up the mood for a very early dive. Our first job is to harvest oysters off the lines.

So, we have to get into the water in total darkness, an eerie feeling. The light breeze and tiredness give me a chill, the tiny waves slap gently against our aluminium hull and the sound resonates into the darkness. Tamuela stops all conversation and says a prayer in Maori asking for protection while being in the water. The boys gear up with mask, snorkel and gloves and disappear into the deep. All of a sudden, I feel very alone while putting on my own gear knowing that there is nothing between me and the lagoon floor but 18 meters of indifferent ocean water.

Nga Karaponga looks at me and says:” Look, the horizon, it will be getting lighter soon.” I take her word as encouragement and glide off the boat into the 28°C water that swaddles me like a warm blanket. My heart starts jumping as soon as I open my

ESCAPE • 41

...and glide off the boat into the 28°C water that swaddles me like a warm blanket. My heart starts jumping as soon as I open my eyes underwater. There are biofluorescent plankton all around us.

eyes underwater. There are biofluorescent plankton all around us. As we stroke to swim towards the lines, the water lights up green right in front of our eyes. Looking past this beautiful spectacle, I see Koa and Kaina diving down to the oysters and the harvest begins.

There are three different types of lines to be found in the lagoon.

A - The spat collectors or Haru Haru lines that are catching the spawn from the oysters in the water to produce new shells.

B - Double chaplets that are used to grow the oyster to seeding size.

C - The chaplets.

These lines hold the actual nucleated oyster, which have been seeded with a nucleus. The nucleus is a fresh water

42 • ESCAPE

pearl that will be coated by the mantle tissue of the black lip oyster (Pinctada margaritifera) with nacre thus creating the beautiful black pearl. The process from catching the spat to collecting the actual pearl takes four to five years. In this extensive period of time, many things can happen to destroy the harvest: severe weather, diseases, El NiĂąo. The pearl farmers need to constantly check their lines, clean the shells and truly look after them like their own children. Only the best caretakers harvest the true unspoiled beauty of a round pearl with rousing lustre.

There are two men free diving and one on the boat pulling up the heavy loads of shells. A main line is full of chaplets. Each

chaplet holds oysters in strings of 10 every meter for a full line length of 220m, which means in theory 220 chaplets and 2,200 oysters per line. First, we tie an anchor float to the line to make it rise closer to the surface and to hold the boat in place. We then untie the chaplets and bring them up to the boat. The chaplets are tied to the lines with a clove hitch tied as a slipknot that is strong but can easily be undone. I need both hands to handle a chaplet. The pros and strong locals untie with one hand, swim to the next, untie and bring two chaplets up to the surface. Kaina and Koa are incredibly skilled divers and manage an average of four chaplets per dive. All of that on one single breath of air.

On the boat the shells are taken off the chaplets and stored in grey plastic baskets, at three chaplets per basket.

A full shipment of 100 chaplets will be transported to the seeding house. This process needs to flow and time is of the essence since the shells are put under enormous stress by being out of the water.

Once the boat arrives at the seeding house a team of four workers is starting to prepare the shells for the technician. The baskets are being hung from a wooden platform with stainless steel hooks to

very adequate considering how much endurance and perseverance the locals need to live this lifestyle in harmony with their surroundings, and considering how long it takes to produce the beautiful Black Pearl. The mood is good, it was a successful day. It is now time for a BBQ. The puru, coconut husks are collected for firewood. Nothing beats the smoky flavour of fish grilled over coconut husks. We sit there watching the flames kiss our fish, a cold drink in our hand, chatting away while overlooking the endless lagoon of Manihiki.

We know that out there, the re-seeded oysters that we have put down earlier that

The layers of nacre in the Cook Islands Black Pearl creates iridescent colours in various shades of black, purple, green, silver, gold and white. float in the lagoon water. This prevents the shells from overheating which would eventually cause their demise. Part of the team starts cleaning them from organic growth such as barnacles, sponges and other living organisms. This process facilitates the handling of the oyster and is an important step towards a healthy growth. The oysters mouth is then opened with a wooden pin and placed onto a wooden tray ready for the quick operation to extract the stunning Black Pearl.

The technician's table resembles a dentist’s workbench, with all the tiny long handled stainless-steel tools that are needed to harvest the pearl from the oyster’s pearl sack called gonad. The oyster is placed onto the shell stand and opened with a wooden wedge shell opener.

A small insertion is made and then the technician removes the black pearl with the pearl ring. Using the nuclei inserter, he then replaces the black pearl with a

day are resting on the line, producing one of the most beautiful gems nature has created. Sam looks at me with a proud smile as I thank him for showing me his world. The team sits together around the fire, talking about the next harvest, how it will be more plentiful, more beautiful than the last.

new similar sized nucleus to prompt the oyster to continue covering the now new pearl with its natural black nacre from the mantel tissue. An interesting side note on the nucleus used in pearl farming is that they are actual fresh water pearls. They come from the Mississippi region and can only be produced there. The industry has tried all sorts of other material but has not yet found a substitute. A black oyster can go through up to four breeding cycles of 12 months so each time the pearl gets a little bigger to a diameter of up to 14 mm.

This explains why the big round pearls are more expensive than the rest. Though it is worth the wait as they are a result of true dedication and love from the farmer as it takes a period of seven years or more to produce one single 14 mm Black Pearl!

We are heading back to Sam's seeding house located in the village of Tukao. The boys explain to me that Tukao translates into ‘stand and grow’. I find this meaning

ESCAPE • 43

Black Pearls are worn around the world.

The pearl has become a symbol of wealth, power and the purest form of beauty.

Creating Beauty But there is more, there is always more.

Manihikians are very resourceful, probably because they cannot just pick up the phone and call “the guy”. Here in the far north people have to help themselves and this is exactly what the community does at all times. In this aspect, it was just a matter of time before the local pearl farmers started adding value to their product by producing stunning jewellery.

Black Pearls are worn around the world.

The pearl has become a symbol of wealth, power and the purest form of beauty.

For us voyagers and visitors to these beautiful islands they are a means of taking a little piece of paradise home with us as a reminder that this lush tropical life really exists. It is out there that the dream continues. My black pearl reminds me of Manihiki’s beauty and I lose myself looking at its lustre and sheer perfection.

The next morning, I meet Mama Nga in her family home, surrounded by her grandchildren. She is sitting under the sunroof, overlooking the lagoon. In front of her, she has a large white velvet cloth on

44 • ESCAPE

which are spread pearls of different sizes and colours. The layers of nacre in the Cook Islands Black Pearl creates iridescent colours in various shades of black, purple, green, silver, gold and white. The particular necklace she is working on is an order from the Cook Islands government as an official gift to the people of Samoa. The Prime Minister will present this necklace to Samoa’s First Lady on the upcoming state visit.

This necklace is the apex of Manihiki craftsmanship and shows in one piece how remarkable its peoples’ skills are. It reflects on a strong tradition of resourcefulness, sustainability and culture that is rooted in the past and ready for a bright future.

Nga’s grandchildren are seeking an education overseas but they are very eager to learn. They are closely observing their grandmother’s craft. In my opinion, Nga has created a true piece of art: the traditional rito necklace with its white cream colour is the perfect canvas for the black keshi pearls she is using on the outer rim, leading the view to the centre piece, a cluster with 14 black pearls. This piece of

jewellery is worthy of a queen! This is one of the many gifts from Cook Islands people to the world!

When you want to get yourself a little souvenir from the Cook Islands you’ll find a number of fine jewellery shops in down town Avarua, around the harbour area and Saturdays at the Punanga Nui market.

The Cook Islands Pearl Association is the umbrella organization for Black Pearls in the Cook Islands and when you buy a pearl from one of their retailers it will be issued with a certificate of authenticity to verify that you are buying a real gem of the north from Manihiki. Take a little piece of this paradise home and let it guide you through the cold winter days, looking at the black pearl, dreaming of the long white sandy beaches of your favourite tropical getaway. Aere ra – see you next time.

For more information on Manihiki and how to get there: Cookislands.travel Airrarotonga.com Azurecoconut.blogspot.com

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The Ways of Weaving Story: Rachel Smith

T

he tools for weaving kikau (coconut palm leaves) are simple – a knife, kikau and skilled hands. And it needs to be beautiful kikau, as weaver Ruta Pirangi describes it: leaves that are a good size, a fresh green and without any damage from wind or insects.

Ruta can be found weaving most days at her stall in Kavera. Coconut trees grow nearby and there is comfort to be found working in the shade of her beach hut, open to the cool sea breeze.

“I’ve had my market stall for 10 years now,” she says, selling fruit from her garden in beautifully woven bowls. The stall is easy to spot, decorated in her weaving as well as plastic and glass bottles that Ruta cleans up from the beach and repurposes.

It was at her other fruit stall, near her home on the back road in Arorangi, that Ruta first made the decision to take up weaving and turn her back on plastic bags – a simple moment when a truck drove past and all her plastic bags went flying. As she watched them go Ruta decided that she would make her own from kikau instead.

“I start making my own bowls to put fruit in to sell – I don’t want to waste my money on plastic,” Ruta says. “I try to do something for me.”

Raranga, or weaving, means to braid, weave or plait, with most kikau weaving having the same basic steps as its base. Jean Tekura Mason describes this best in her chapter on weaving, ‘Warps & Wefts of Life – Raranga in the Social Context of the Cook Islands,’ in Cook Islands Art and Architecture (2015).

Raranga is a “…system of firmly placing a series of parallel threads (the warp) and then passing loose threads (the weft) over then under the stretched threads at right angles... This gives the product strength and shape.”

Predominantly women’s work, raranga was traditionally used in all aspects of life – just one of the important roles of the coconut tree, or the tree of life. Kikau weaving was used in house construction, house contents such as sitting mats and wall screens, containers for food preparation including fishing baskets, kete (baskets or bags), sunhats, sun visors, and bracelets and balls as toys for children.

Drive past any event on the island and you will see kikau weaving decorations on display. It was, and still is, a feature decorative element at special events including baptism, marriage, haircutting, funerals, investitures of traditional leadership and other ceremonies.

As with any skilled work Ruta makes it look easy. Ruta says she never paid much attention to women weaving while growing up in Rarotonga – she never sat down beside them to learn how to do it herself.

“I don’t know how I learnt – I just do it. I get this skill from myself,” she says. “And there is a good feeling when you make it - I love weaving.”

Weaving is in her blood though. Her mother was born in Rakahanga, with family connections to both there and nearby Manihiki. Her grandmother used to weave from rito (coconut fibre), a speciality of the Northern Pa Enua (outer islands). Ruta is teaching her three daughters and her granddaughter to weave, wanting to share

48 • ESCAPE

with them the skills that she worked so hard to develop.

Unlike kikau weaving, other types of Cook Islands weaving take days or weeks of preparation. Rito is made from the new leaf of the coconut tree. Strands of fibre from the midrib of the coconut leaf, are scraped, boiled, scraped again and then draped to dry for 2-3 days. Dyed or left in its natural shade, the fine fibre of rito allows for more delicate and detailed weaving, as seen in the beautiful decorative hats that are worn for church. Paired with black pearls or shell it is made into jewellery such as necklaces and earrings.

Pandanus weaving utilises the leaf of the Rau ‘Ara (pandanus) plant. The leaf is cut, plaited and dried for three weeks, before being flattened out and rolled into a ball. Typically less fine that rito weaving, pandanus is used for floor mats, fans and hats.

Now a full time weaver, Ruta can put her hand to any type of weaving. She travels to find the resources she needs – rito from her family in Manihiki and pandanus from Mitiaro. Her fine rito work is used in costumes, such as those she designed for Aitutaki’s drum dance and action song performances in Te Maeva Nui this year.

She and the Aitutaki dancers made the costumes together, Ruta teaching the young women how to work with rito in the process.

At Cook Islands Tertiary Training Institute’s community classes Ruta teaches those who are new to weaving to make raurau (plates) and rangokere (food carrying baskets). While raurau weaving uses 2-4 small sections of coconut leaf and is a relatively simple task to hands that are new to weaving, rangokere is more of a challenge. Rangokere is woven with the main rib of the coconut leaf kept intact, the rib split open only as the last step in creating the basket. The design is strong and able to hold large amounts of heavy food.

Ruta knows exactly what the finished product will be when she is weaving something simple, such as a rangokere or

a bowl. For her decorative work it is quite different - she simply starts weaving and sees what it becomes.

“It is good to weave something different,” she says, constantly challenging herself with new designs and ideas, all finished off with a signature look. Her beautiful decorative work is well-known across the island, mixing woven fresh leaves with dried pieces that are designed to last for many years and spray painted to add colour.

Ruta has big plans for her stall in Kavera, plans to share her love of weaving with visitors and locals on the island. Next year she intends to host an event to showcase her weaving, set up a museum of weaving which will include a mix of rito, kikau and pandanus pieces, as well as establishing her beachside hut as a wedding venue that will of course be decorated with her stunning woven kikau designs.

At the heart of it all is something quite simple though – a return to making and using woven kikau as part of everyday life, before the import of cheap plastic products became common place. As an environmentally sustainable product it doesn’t get any better – coconut trees are plentiful, there are no costs involved, and the end result is both beautiful, practical and completely biodegradable.

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“Everyone used to be able to weave, now not so much,” she says. “It is something easy for people on the island to make – to stop bringing in plastic.”

Reference • Cook Islands Art and Architecture. Editors – Rod Dixon, Linda Crowl, Marjorie Tuainekore Crocombe, USP Press, 2015

The

Spa ESCAPE • 49

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Inspired by traditional Cook Islands medicine

A Pharmacist in Rarotonga Story: Shannon Saunders MPS

On a holiday in Rarotonga in 2008 I called into CITC Pharmacy in Avarua to see the pharmacist, who I knew from pharmacy circles in New Zealand. Despite it raining most of my holiday, there was something about this place that sparked my interest. Imagine what it would be like to work here!

I couldn’t believe my luck when a few months later I saw the job advertised.

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I learned that CITC Pharmacy started in 1974, the year Rarotonga International Airport was opened. Initially the pharmacy had been a joint venture between Cook Islands Trading Corporation Limited (CITC), a well-established merchant, and a retail pharmacy in NZ. That had enabled CITC to establish a modern dispensary with access to the full range of pharmaceuticals available through the Pharmacy Guild of NZ. Subsequently the pharmacy became 100% owned by CITC. I also learned that CITC Pharmacy was the only retail pharmacy in the Cook Islands that employed a NZ-registered pharmacist, a standard that had been maintained since opening. This is one of many attributes that has contributed to CITC being a highly respected company. I felt comfortable that notwithstanding the laid-back lifestyle of

Rarotonga, I would be in an environment that was conducive to maintaining professional standards. I was stoked to accept the position of CITC Pharmacy Manager offered to me six months later.

That was eight years ago. Since then, both Rarotonga and CITC Pharmacy have exceeded all my expectations.

Our pharmacy provides a full range of professional pharmacy services not available at other pharmacies on Rarotonga, including the dispensing of controlled drugs, consultations for Pharmacist-only medication such as emergency contraceptive pill, Sildenafil and antibiotic treatment for uncomplicated infections including UTI and conjunctivitis.

One quickly makes friends in Rarotonga.

The friendly, open nature of Cook Islanders translates easily into relationships, including professional ones. I have been invited to functions and met people who I never would have dreamt of meeting, coming from a small rural town in the Bay of Plenty.

We have kept our strong link with New Zealand suppliers. This provides us with brands familiar to visitors such as L’Oréal, Manuka Doctor, Aloe Up, Go Health NZ, Clinicians, QVS, Via, Tommee Tippee, Huggies, Muscle Pharm and R-Line. You could mistakenly think you had walked into a pharmacy in New Zealand.

The increase in visitor numbers over my eight years has been amazing. We now have 150,000 visitors a year, with that number still growing. Visitors add another dimension to living and working in the Cook Islands. Although predominantly from NZ, they come from all over the world. They often compliment us on the standard of our pharmacy; many are surprised to find such a high standard of presentation and services. Hearing comments such as “wow, it’s like a real pharmacy” makes me both proud and laugh.

We also stock island favourites including Te Tika and Rito (from Rarotonga) and the famous Monoi Oil (from Tahiti). These are hugely popular with visitors as souvenirs and gifts.

Our staff at CITC Pharmacy are a lot of fun. They absorb training enthusiastically and are keen to advance their knowledge.

They are a pleasure to work with. They love the interaction with customers and build relationships with our returning visitors that last year after year.

When I travel overseas for holiday or work purposes, I don’t find it hard to find a locum pharmacist to fill in for me. But at no time soon will you be seeing the full- time job advertised.

Airfreight services from New Zealand to Rarotonga are excellent and make life so much easier now for obtaining nonstandard medication as special orders for customers. Similarly, Air Rarotonga provides very good airfreight services from Rarotonga to the outer islands.

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u a t a T

A Language of the Pacific

Story: Glenda Tuaine

I

enjoy looking at people’s tattoos and have done since I was a kid when my Uncle Pop showed me his Panther that moved when he clenched his calf muscle. From that memory to now my attitude towards Tattoo has always been one of intrigue and interest. I am a blank canvas, meaning I have no tattoo’s, my husband on the other hand has many that represent and signify people and moments in his life. Each line, marking, and motif tells a story of who he is and he 52 • ESCAPE

has been very careful as to whom he has engaged to permanently draw on his body. For him it has been all about connection.

In Rarotonga, the Cook Islands and broadly across the Pacific the tattoo or tatau conversation is all about understanding the person who will be tattooed, the significance and story of the markings that will be placed on the body and the relationship you will have with the art once tattooed. It is a much deeper artistic and creative experience than the days of old when sitting in a parlour, picking a picture you liked and walking out later with a random or token image on your body was how you got your tattoo! In recent decades tattoos in western society have often been labelled the markings of troublesome people, naive

Stormy

thinking, but one that needless to say does exist. The assumption being, a tattoo was not about pride but more about rebellion and in some cases that is true however, if you take a look at the history of tattoo the true purpose emerges. It is an ancient art form that has signified many different things for many different cultures, western included. Talking with some of Rarotonga’s artists, I came to have a much better understanding of how the language of tattoo is real and viable and how each artist translates the individuals’ reasons for getting a tattoo into a marking of purpose and personal meaning. This niche arts business is in high demand here with our artists creating world class work that is sort after by many tourists. So is a tattoo the new contemporary souvenir?

“Demand is huge, I don’t advertise and I haven’t for years” says Ti Pekepo one of the Cook Islands leading tattooists who is also a well-respected carver, artist,

Raniera

“The story on one’s body should come from a sense of their own place” This profound and eloquent sentence flows from Ti as he continues to design a tattoo on his 11.00am appointments’ calf muscle whose session I have gate crashed. traditional vaka builder and voyager.

“People shop around. Apparently they find me on Trip Advisor now and through word of mouth!” Ti is one of the foundations of the industry here. He was in Rarotonga when tattooing was in its infancy. In 2015, Ti was asked to do a talk at Te Papa, the National Museum of New Zealand, on Tatau. Preparing himself for his presentation he decided to go around the island visiting the tattooists that he knew of to see their work with the intention of promoting them while in New Zealand.

In his words he was “blown away” at how many tattooists were in business.

He discovered 14 artists were thriving in Rarotonga at that time with studios having 3 -4 people working in them, I asked Ti about his business and how he approaches the art of Tatau.

“The story on one’s body should come from a sense of their own place” This

profound and eloquent sentence flows from Ti as he continues to design a tattoo on his 11.00am appointments’ calf muscle whose session I have gate crashed. “In 2001 we had a conference at the Christchurch Polytech set up by Rick Manuel. It was during the workshops I began to notice women wearing Moko Kauae of their ancestors. Other women wanted artists to do their ancestors Moko Kauae on them, I started talking about it saying I didn’t think it was right.”

The reason for Ti’s reaction to that is part of his own story and practise as a tattoo artist. A tattoo should be relevant to the person who will wear it and as Ti explains “Those women’s ancestors had to go through certain testing and duties to wear that tattoo, just wanting it does not mean you have the right to wear it”.

Ti practises what he preaches, he is well researched in the language of Polynesian Motifs and will listen to and develop the

tattoo drawing on symbols that re-tell an individual’s story. Ti was introduced to Maori and Polynesian patterns on Marae in New Zealand in his younger days when the stories and meanings were explained to him. In the 1980’s he moved back to Rarotonga and the first book he was given was ‘The Arts and Crafts of the Cook Islands’ by Te Rangi Hiroa or as others may know him Sir Peter Buck, it is with all these designs and the community around him that Ti realised these patterns all had stories and meaning but more importantly that he was starting to understand.

Stormy Kara who is Ti’s niece and also a well-respected tattooist carver, artist and sometime Facebook commentator on life’s curve balls also relates to the sense of a hidden language. Stormy owns and operates Kareha studio. Her experience

Raniera

ESCAPE • 53

Stormy

really important we give them the best advice. I always say to ask questions.”

Says Stormy. “Tattooing is falling back into the hands of the artists especially in the Cook Islands, we do a lot of freehand work so many of us have arts backgrounds. It is about applying it to the body and making it fit” Each artist obviously has a passion and for Stormy memorial work is close to her heart. “We have a lot of people come in who would never have a tattoo until someone they love has passed away. Over here we are lucky that we have designs that can mean many things, there is no limit to tattoo aesthetically and culturally”.

“Tattooing is falling back into the hands of the artists especially in the Cook Islands, we do a lot of freehand work so many of us have arts backgrounds. It is about applying it to the body and making it fit” understanding the language of patterns and motif she likens to being dyslexic and then finding a language you can read and understand. Stormy is also very clear that she needs art. It is as much a part of her life as breathing is so coming from a family of athletes she is forever grateful to her mother who realised her daughter’s passion lay in pens, paper and drawing not in track and field! Stormy learnt to tattoo from her Uncle Ti, she then studied in New Zealand and has carved a reputation that like her Uncle sees many people seek her out. In this industry reputation is the business card. Each artist has their own code or process on how they work and that is what draws people to them.

The business of tattooing is incredibly personal, creatively draining and one that requires a confidence in oneself to deliver on the dreams of others. It is intense at times and work that requires great skill, patience and people skills to soothe the way in the transformative journey that

54 • ESCAPE

takes place. Be the job big or small each job requires respect and counsel for the person about to be inked and what they may go through. I know having sat in on some of my husband’s tattoos where he had to go to a place in his mind where he had control and calmness to cope with the hours that stretched ahead for the work to be completed let alone the pain element.

Stormy lets me in on some of the funnier stories she has of people bolting out of the chair and having to be calmed down but also of people wanting work done that really is quite impossible to do in the areas of the body that they want. Her Uncle Ti also pointed out to me that he does not do certain jobs because he knows that with exposure to the sun or the placement of the tattoo on certain areas will mean it will look good for a time but then degrade or the lines will blow out.

“People come here to the Cooks and they feel inspired and they want a tattoo, it is

Emerging artist Raniera Ellison began his interest in tattoo five years ago and has been a dedicated tattoo artist for the past two, when he started Akairo Creative his own label that he now operates out of Kareha Studio. Like Ti and Stormy he too is a carver and artist whose background in wood and shell carving lead him to tattoo which he believes is an extension

Ti

Ti

Stormy

of carving just the medium is different.

For Raniera it all feeds in to one another.

“Wood carving helped me understand patterns more and I think shell carving helped me develop the motor skills needed to create pieces of work with fine detail.” He is another artist who has been mentored along the way by Ti Pekepo acknowledging that Ti was the person who started him off; letting him breakdown and clean machines and then moving on to tattooing fruit, obviously better to make a mistake on an orange than someone’s arm! From those early days to now he is building a reputation that sees him, like the others, work long hours to meet

the demand. “90% of my market would be tourists who are on holiday and feel the urge to get a tattoo. Some of them because it is a souvenir of their trip or they have been thinking about it and are happy, relaxed and think yeah I am going to do it, but for a good number of them it is for a lot heavier or more significant reasons. That is really special, people trust you enough to create those art pieces to represent those memories. Sure, we still do lots of turtles and flowers and you know it might be our 1000th flower tattoo, but you have to humble yourself and remember it is often their first tattoo for many and to put as much energy into that as if it

With demand for tattoos increasing and many more artists returning or opening up around Rarotonga it is fair to say that the Cook Islands is a destination that has a thriving tattoo industry, They are a vital part of the rise of this countries creative economy. was the first time I was doing one, you create something you would be proud to wear yourself”. Raniera tells me it is about respect and how marking someone for life is one of the greatest privileges.

With demand for tattoos increasing and many more artists returning or opening up around Rarotonga it is fair to say that the Cook Islands is a destination that has a thriving tattoo industry, They are a vital part of the rise of this countries creative economy. The standards are high, every artist I spoke to reinforced the levels of hygiene and care that must be taken during a tattoo, and strongly advised for the tattoo hunter to ask questions and to shop around making sure they have the artist they want. So am I ready to get my souvenir? At some stage of my life yes, however for the moment I still enjoy looking at other peoples, marvelling at the detail and how well certain pieces suit them. As Stormy put it “Tattoos are a luxury item that you earn for yourself,” and I agree with that. They are a marker of something special in your life and I know our artists are some of the best for translating that private story into body art.

Ti

ESCAPE • 55

PUSHING AGAINST THE TIDE

Te Mira Ura Story: Chiavanni Le’Mon & Thomas Wynne Photos: Ministry of Culture & Chiavanni Le’Mon

F

or the Cook Islands and Cook Islands diaspora globally, there is nothing that reflects our culture, our identity and who we are more, then our penchant for song and dance. Each year young ones gather in Rarotonga for what it can only be described as the pinnacle of song and dance, Te Mira Ura, or the dancer of the year competition, and for weeks prior to Te Mira Ura, families gather in front rooms, and halls, and prepare their sons and daughters for this auspicious event.

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horeographers, costume makers and parents gather in houses and in small communities to support and encourage young dancers, as we have done for centuries, to perform songs that resonate a time past and a time slowly slipping away as a globalised world fills more and more the minds and hearts of our young ones. If there was anything we can do as a people to actively work against this globalisation then Te Mira Ura, or dancer of the year is it. Our culture, working steadily in the hearts and minds of our youth, pushing against the incoming tide of technology.

Eleven year old Kiani Hand is one of those young people. Surrounded by family and his support team he now stands in the place as many of his ancestors did learning the oratory, and the language of song and dance, and in that ensuring its life and survival. This year, Kiani who attends Titikaveka college represented Vaka Takitumu. His traditional chant or pe’e training was with his uncle Tokoa Tairea with Uncle Tokoa giving Kiani a beautiful traditional chant that their ancestors used to cite in days gone by.

This traditional chant (pe’e) was about a certain crab, only found in Mauke traditionally called, “Papaka Tuapukupuku”

(Hump-backed Shore-Crab) and the “Papaka Toetoe” (Flat Rock-Crab). Kiani’s performance was choreographed by Marlina Nicholas and local dancer Jarves Aperau, with his costume designed and lovingly made by hand by his grandmother Vouvou Nane Tauu. And as one can see his performance is a work of art woven by the many strands of his family, young and old, celebrating the stories and culture of our people.

Te Mire Ura, or the Dancer of the Year competition is the pinnacle event for developing Cook Islands performing artists, drummers, singers, and dancers.

Held every year in the month of April, it is the most highly anticipated event for performers, their families and the local and wider Cook Islands community. It is a competition that prides itself on being

family friendly, and with an open-door policy, where all people are welcome to come and experience the timeless tradition and spectacular of Cook Islands dance.

those still with a dance in their heart and in their bones to show that you are never too old to dance, and in fact talent only improves with age.

Hosted by the Ministry of Cultural Development in the National Auditorium known as the ‘Are Karioi’, the event draws thousands of people and supporters who come to witness and support the best of the best. But not only is this a chance to see the best of our dance performers, as with everything we do in the Cook Islands, it is a time to catch up with family and friends and share the love of our culture and our pride in those that take the stage.

The junior and intermediate sections have a similar program where dancers are required to perform two items. The action or slow beat and the fast beat. The slow beat for both the male section and the female section is timed, dancers are required to dance within two and a half minutes. The females are to perform an action song, followed by a slow drum beat, composed by the Ministry of Cultural Development. The male dancers are to perform a traditional chant (pe’e) giving them the opportunity to display their warrior-like characteristics followed by the same slow drum beat.

For the dancers, the event is the culmination of years of hard work, passionate commitment and unswerving dedication to bring their best to the national stage. Hours upon hours are spent in composing, costume designing, teaching, rehearsing and organising the talented dancers. Dancers can compete in five different sections, the Junior section, dancers aged from 10 years old and up to the age of 14 years old. The intermediate section, dancers are required to be aged 14 years old up to 17 years old. The Senior section is for dancers aged 17 years old plus. The last two categories are for dancers in the Golden Oldies category and the Papa’a or tourist section, which always brings the house down with roars of laughter and support for our non-Cook Islanders game to give it a go.

The Junior and Intermediate sections focus heavily on developing the dancers while the Senior section is where our expert dancers compete to show what time and effort can produce on centre stage, demonstrating what is always the best of the best, dancers in the Cook Islands.

And last but not least, and in honour of so many of our past performers, past singers and dancers, the Golden Oldies allows

The second section is the fast drum beat section, where dancers take to the stage for thirty-two seconds and must only dance fast, they are judged on their endurance, fitness and their ability to keep in time with the beat.

In 2017 Kiani and Nekola Christian from the Island of Aitutaki were champions on the night, with each winning in all categories and taking home the Prizes: Best Slow Beat, Best Fast Beat, Best Costume and First placing overall for male and female dancers. Nekola proudly represented her home island, Aitutaki (Araura Enua) where she attends Aitutaki College.

So, if you are looking to experience the Cook Islands culture at its finest, to see Cook Islands dance, culture, and costumes at their utmost best, then ensure to book your next holiday during the dates below so that you too can attend Te Mira Ura and enjoy this captivating event.

Te Mira Ura finals in 2018 will be from 27th April to 10th May

ESCAPE • 57

great places to stay

Aroa Beachside Inn

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elax by the pool with a tropical cocktail, soak up the sun, rejuvenate your soul, and luxuriate in the warmth of a romantic evening under the stars, with exotic foods and fine wine. Whatever your Cook Islands holiday dream consists of, you can be sure there is a style of accommodation to suit your taste and attentive staff to make all those dreams come true. From deluxe beach resorts to simple budget facilities, you can choose your own standard or quality and plan according to your budget. Here on these pages, we bring you some of the nicest places to stay on Rarotonga.

happy holidays!

Look for this symbol‌ The Cook Islands Tourism Accreditation Scheme is designed to set minimum standards. It will assist you in your choice of where to stay, what to see and what to do.

Wherever you see this logo you can be sure that the accommodation establishment, restaurant, retailer, tour or activity operator has met minimum requirements to assure you of good service, good facilities, safe practices and of course friendly Cook Islands hospitality.

We highly recommend that visitors use their services.

For a full list of all accredited businesses please refer to our website:

www.tourismindustry.co.ck

YOUR PRIVATE PIECE OF PARADISE! Idyllically set on the shores of a sheltered lagoon this intimate beachfront resort enjoys stunning sunsets.

Beachfront and garden bungalows | Onsite restaurant and bar Personal wedding co-ordinator | Rarotonga’s quiet southern coast PO Box 23, Rarotonga, Cook Islands email: beach@palmgrove.co.ck phone: +682 20002 www.palmgrove.net

35 spacious self-catering studios and suites are situated either on the beachfront overlooking the lagoon or beside either of the two swimming pools amid lush tropical gardens. The resort features an open-air restaurant open for breakfast, lunch and dinner 7 days a week.

Phone: (682) 28028 Email: welcome@thesunsetresort.com www.thesunsetresort.com

WATER SAFETY IN RAROTONGA

Avarua

RAROTONGA HAS A BEAUTIFUL LAGOON with many safe swimming, snorkelling and kayaking areas.

However, THERE ARE AREAS THAT ARE UNSAFE in certain conditions and these should be avoided for your safety.

DANGER!

ACHTUNG! DANGEREUX! PELIGRO! PERICOLO!

Arorangi

LOCATIONS

Avana

Vaimaanga Avaavaroa

EMERGENCY CALL 999 CONDITIONS IN THE PASSAGES CAN CHANGE QUICKLY and a passage that appears safe can become dangerous with just a small change of the tide.

DO NOT SWIM, SNORKEL OR KAYAK IN OR NEAR PASSAGES

24 self-catering air conditioned villas set amongst tropical gardens and across the road from its own stunning beach and reserve. Ideal for couples and families.

Reconnect with life at our Romantic Island Hideaway. Enjoy child-free tranquillity in a perfect beachside setting.

P: (682) 28465 E: sunhaven@beachbungalows.co.ck www.mysunhaven.com

Situated in the heart of popular Muri Beach, our 22 tastefully furnished spacious units & villas are air-conditioned & self-catering.

Complimentary kayaks, SUP’s, snorkelling gear, transfers. Friendly staff ensure you of a memorable ‘Rarotongan’ experience.

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r u o Y w Gro Own Story: Rachel Smith Photos taken at Avarua Pre School

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t’s not your typical class at school. For starters, this one is outdoors in the sunshine. There are muddy hands, much laughter, a bush knife or two, and some snacking on snake beans.

Today Brian Tairea, Extension Officer at the Ministry of Agriculture, is working with Year 9 Horticulture students from Nukutere College, alongside their teacher Toakarawa Kabuta. Together they are developing a vegetable garden - planting seedlings of cucumber, corn, watermelon and tomato that the students have grown from seed. A bush knife is the standard multi-use tool, perfect for digging holes for seedlings and chopping up banana tree leaf and stem to use as mulch.

“Horticulture’s a very important industry in our country,” Brian tells the students. “You can be a teacher, doctor or lawyer but you still need to eat.”

The students are clearly enjoying themselves. It is the practicality of the work that they are drawn too, with most having planted at home with grandparents or parents, and those who haven’t are keen to take their newfound knowledge back home with them.

at the Global Forum for Regional Advisory Service’s (GFRAS) 8th Annual Meeting held in Australia in September.

“We have been getting comments that our young ones aren’t really interested in horticulture,” says Brian. “But with guidance and making the subject more interesting, that mode of thought is changing. It’s encouraging that there are now a few more under 30-year olds going full-time and making this into a business.”

Hosted by the Secretariat of the Pacific Community (SPC), PIRAS provides an informal network for extension officers across the Pacific – a chance to share their successes and their challenges.

Brian says that youth development has been their recent focus, with work ranging from farming for those with hearing disabilities, to providing life changing opportunities through women’s groups on Papua New Guinea and for youth in Vanuatu.

For most, farming is part-time work to provide a secondary income and typically the work of older males. In recent years, those students who were interested in horticulture were criticised by their parents for it being a low-income source of employment.

Brian says this attitude is noticeably shifting with parents and grandparents now happy that their child is considering the area as a career. It is a change in perception – an understanding that farming is more than manual labour and recognition of the exciting opportunities it can offer in both science and engineering.

Nowhere was this more obvious than on Brian’s recent travels to Fiji as part of Pacific Islands Regional Advisory Service (PIRAS), and

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What captures the students’ attention the most though, is Brian’s talk of recent innovations discussed at GFRAS, which he attended as the representative of PIRAS. He regales them with talk of new technology used at grassroots level such as drone operated fertilizer distribution and a RIPPA™ (Robot for Intelligent Perception and Precision Application) solar weeder.

“As the next generation you can stick to traditional methods or you can create your own style of farming,” he says. “It’s something for you to think about.”

Brian’s role as Extension Officer means he is rarely found indoors at his desk. One day may see him at a school, the next out and about in the community working with women’s groups, village growers’ associations and helping individuals on their farms. Tomorrow he is helping a farmer prune his oranges, while last month he was assisting in the setup of composting systems.

“I have the best job on the island – I visit farms and schools and other countries,” he says, a role which provides a connection between the local community and research at a national, regional and global level.

Born in New Zealand, Brian moved to Rarotonga when he was 8 years old, with connections to Mauke through his father.

Living with his grandparents, planting was a standard daily task. After school he would be out on their Ngatangiia plantation working with his grandfather Paara Maoate, until dark. Brian was taught the old school way including ploughing land with a horse and plough, growing similar plants to those of today.

With this early immersion in planting and growing produce, it seems only natural that he was drawn to horticulture as a career. His long history of working for the Ministry of Agriculture in Research and as an Extension Officer, was interspersed with gaining a Bachelor of Tropical Agriculture through University of the South Pacific and a stint teaching at Tereora College.

While Brian enjoyed his time teaching it also reinforced his desire to work with the whole community - to influence horticulture in the Cook Islands on a larger scale.

“I like what I do,” Brian says. “And I like the challenge – in the Tupapa area close to the coast, soils are very low in nutrients. So, introducing composting, mulching working with nature is on-going.

and discussing methods of prevention, in future classes. When a student asks how they can control the insects without using insecticides, Brian tells them he will provide some organic alternatives for them to use.

Organic farming is an area that the Ministry of Agriculture has recognised as one of increasing importance. Working with farmers to promote alternatives to standard pesticides and insecticides, Brian is also the Ministry of Agriculture’s representative on Natura Kuki Airani, a newly established group formed to assist with organic certification in the Cook Islands. As of September, ten farmers had been certified organic by the group, meaning they had met the Pacific Organics Standard set by POETCom (Pacific Organic & Ethical Trade Community) through SPC. More farmers are in the process of working towards certification, all of which means that Organic Pasifika branded produce will soon be available in Rarotonga.

Some plant pests are more difficult to control though – the many chickens and mynah birds who love to feast on tender seedlings and nearly ripe vegetables such as tomatoes, corn and watermelon. Brian has a solution for that too - placing rocks around the base of seedlings, fencing gardens or even hanging old CD’s around the garden as a visual deterrent.

Partnerships between the Ministry of Agriculture and fellow Health and Education Ministries, means that Brian is often visiting schools. Vegetable gardens have been setup at many schools around the island, with preschool and primary school students all learning the basics of planting. The rewards are obvious in the armfuls of bok choy and other produce that students then take home to their family.

As break time begins, a few students hang around to finish up tasks. There is talk of what subjects they will take next year, with some thinking to continue their study of horticulture. They know there is much more to learn with exciting opportunities available for tertiary study.

“I want to get more young farmers involved,” says Brian. And it seems that he is.

Nukutere College’s new hydroponic setup was funded by the Ministry of Health as part of their Non-Communicable Disease (NCD) programme, which also looks to promote home gardening as a physical activity and for healthy nutrition. The hydroponics will be run by the Year 9 and 10 students, another tool for growing that they can add to their skills.

In the Nukutere garden, newly planted seedlings have been tucked into the garden beds with banana leaf blankets and tomato plants secured to stakes.

Students will be assessing plants for signs of insect damage, identifying insects

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u r a m u r a M : a u t A Under the Protection of God

Story: Amelia Rachel Hokule’a Borofsky

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he sails as an iconic symbol of the Cook Islands. Her mast stretches to the heavens. Her double ochre hulls swing forward like frigate bird wings. Her lofty traditional sails balloon in the wind. Her deck holds a star map etched into her deep earth stained wood. Her solar panels soak up the sun. Voyagers call her “our beloved mama," a traditional sailing canoe, or vaka, known as Marumaru Atua. You can see her silhouette on the side of Te Ara Museum in Muri and her poster on the wall outside of BCI bank in Avarua. If you have the opportunity to sail on her, she will forever etch herself into your memory.

Marumaru Atua stands proud.

Her story begins long ago when Polynesians first sailed across the Pacific Ocean as if on a modern motorway. For thousands of years, navigators looked to

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the ocean as a point of connection. Tongan and Fijian writer Epeli Hauo’fa wrote, “Oceania is vast, Oceania is expanding, Oceania is hospitable and generous…

Oceania is us. We are the sea. We are the ocean.” Travel across the seas is a birth right. Kiribati writer Teresia Teaiwa wrote, “we sweat and cry salt water, so we know that the ocean is in our blood.” Every major Polynesian language has the same word for ocean, moana. The vaka pulls the islands together across the moana.

For thousands of years, vakas (canoes) and traditional navigation techniques allowed Polynesians to explore uninhabited islands.

Navigators learned the art through oral tradition from master to apprentice. They learned the way the tides move and the swells of the sea. They learned to smell land before they could see it. They learned

the directions of the wind. They learned the star compass and how to read the sky like a sextant. These Polynesian navigators, known as wayfinders, led the way to unknown lands.

Many do not know that Tahitian navigator Tupaia helped Captain James Cook navigate the Pacific Ocean. Tupaia’s grandfather and father had passed on the knowledge of the major islands of Western Polynesia and the knowledge to sail to Fiji, Samoa, and Tonga. Tupaia had knowledge of 130 islands within a 2,000-mile radius of his home island of Ra’iatea. Navigators like Tupaia marked these oceans long before European explorers came.

With colonization and modernization, the science of navigation and the use of traditional sailing vakas was lost. The

“Oceania is vast, Oceania is expanding, Oceania is hospitable and generous…Oceania is us. We are the sea. We are the ocean.” knowledge all but died out. The revival did not return until 1973. Within the social milieu of a cultural renaissance, a group of academics in Hawai’i wanted to test different theories of Polynesian migration.

They set up the Polynesian Voyaging Society and built a double-hull canoe based on ancient drawings. Although these canoes had not been seen for more than 600 years, a committed group came together and built Hōkūle‘a, star of gladness. No living Hawaiian, however, knew how to navigate across the open seas.

Plus “Mau” Pialug came from Micronesia to teach the Hawaiians. He spent considerable time with Nainoa Thompson who became the first master navigator outside of Pialug’s native Stawal.

Concerned that the practice would die out with Western acculturation, he travelled to Hawai’i to share his knowledge. He taught Thompson non-instrument wayfinding as his Pacific ancestors had practiced for thousands of years. This knowledge has now spread across the currents of the sea.

In 1976, Hōkūle‘a made her maiden voyage to Tahiti. This historic and celebratory voyage returned a sense of pride to the Pacific. Her journey showed that Hawaiians had not drifted to these islands, but sailed intentionally with great knowledge and skill. In arriving at Pape’ete Harbour, over half the island’s people, more than

17,000 strong came to see the traditional Polynesian voyaging vaka. For the first time in hundreds of years, they saw their brothers and sisters sailing into their harbor using traditional methods. Hōkūle‘a became the iconic symbol of a cultural renaissance, birthing a resurgent interest in these timeless vessels.

In 1992, the Hōkūle‘a sailed to Rarotonga as part of the 6th Pacific Arts Festival.

Former Prime Minister and Sailor Sir Tom Davis became inspired and brought a group together to build a distinctly Cook Islands vaka. With a group of committed people, he established the Cook Islands Voyaging Society Inc. as a non-profit organisation. On the 12th of March 1992, Cook Islanders carried the 72ft voyaging vaka Te Au o Tonga out of the mists of Takuvaine valley and down to Avarua Harbour. Current Cook Islands Voyaging Society President Ian Karika remembers the day vividly, “we literally carried her on our shoulders.” He laughs, himself not believing the memory. Te Au o Tonga went on to sail to Tahiti, Hawai’i, Samoa, Tonga, New Caledonia, and Aotearoa all using traditional non-instrument navigation. Te Au o Tonga now berths in Aitutaki.

Be captivated and charmed

by Cook Island’s only Semi-Submersible Avatiu Harbour 5 min walk (west) from Punanga Nui Market

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Hōkūle‘a is the mother of Te Au O Tonga, and Te Au O Tonga is the mother of Marumaru Atua. After seeing and sailing on Te Au O Tonga, the Okeanos Foundation asked the people of the Cook Islands if

Tours leave 9am, 11am, 2pm and 4pm (sea conditions dependent) Bookings essential for 9am and 4pm tours

ESCAPE • 65 Please arrive 10 minutes prior to departure time

“The trip changed me. I’ve had two major turning points in my life. The first was motherhood.

The second my voyage on Marumaru Atua.” they could replicate seven ocean voyaging vaka based on her design. Salthouse Boatbuilders in Auckland built seven vaka, with the help of Cook Islands traditional boat building experts. The first vaka built was Marumaru Atua so named so that wherever she sailed she and her voyagers felt safe under the protection of the heavens.

Marumaru Atua sailed from 2010-2012, one of seven vaka on the Te Mana o Te Moana (The Spirit of the Ocean) voyage across the Pacific ending in July 2012 at the Festival of Pacific Arts in the Solomon Islands.

Since her return, Okeanos gifted the vaka to the people of the Cook Islands under the custodianship of the Cook Islands Voyaging Society. For the past five years, Marumaru Atua has continued to voyage in the Cook Islands and throughout Oceania.

The Cook Islands Voyaging Society invites visitors and school groups to come on the vaka for Saturday sails and experience the power of the moana and the ancestors that sailed before. “Each person that touches the vaka brings their mana (power) to her,” said voyager Alex Olah.

Voyagers describe the vaka transforming them. On a sail to the uninhabited island of Suwarrow, voyager Erena Young shared that she learned about her own

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strength. “We battled the elements,” she said, “The trip changed me. I’ve had two major turning points in my life. The first was motherhood. The second my voyage on Marumaru Atua.” Voyager Sam Timoko describes the same. “The MUA voyage to Australia allowed me to connect to my ancestors.”

Marumaru Atua has a long legacy. She represents both the past and the future.

The Cook Islands Voyaging Society is active in giving talks in the schools about the vaka, hosting visiting groups for sails, and voyaging throughout the Pacific returning the vaka to her rightful place in history. With a small grant, the Voyaging Society aims to take struggling youth and train them as the next generation of voyagers. Partnerships with environmental groups also allows the vaka to provide marine education on a zero-emissions vessel. The vaka belongs to all Cook Islanders who come to see her as a national cultural treasure. For a small fee, visitors can sail on her for day-long Saturday sails and learn her stories.

Her future changed on Saturday the 2nd of September when a fire broke out on board. Volunteer firefighters spotted the blaze and it took several hours for them to put it out. She sustained significant

damage to the hull. The Cook Islands Voyaging Society writes “It is difficult to see our once proud mama vaka in such bad shape…we need a massive repair job and refit to get her seaworthy again to continue our voyaging legacy.” So far, eleven thousand has been raised from various individual donors and other voyaging societies. Around two hundred thousand is needed. The Cook Islands Voyaging Society is asking everyone to donate five dollars through their Give a Little campaign (https://givealittle.co.nz/ cause/helpmarumaruatua) so that the proud vaka can sail again. She awaits the next generation of Cook Islanders and visitors to sail her to new horizons. Master navigator Nainoa Thompson of Hōkūle‘a said, “The stakes are very high, sailing into the future to protect the earth without our vaka is not an option, it’s a deep responsibility to ancestors and children not born. I would be afraid to face the future without the vaka.” Her past is strong. Her future rests on Cook Islanders and visitors uniting together to return the proud Marumaru Atua to the moana.

work on another ultramarine handbag, but she needs more plastic Anchor powder milk bags. Sabine is the only person in the Cook Islands recycling plastic garbage into woven creations.

Waste Not:

The Recyclable Art of Sabine Janneck Story: Amelia Borofsky

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alk past the wall with the image of a grumpy scarlet stone fish, past the oxygen tanks, and past the snorkeling equipment to discover Sabine Janneck’s colorful recyclable creations. Rainbow colored iridescent cushions accent a plain couch and a handbag in different shades of ocean blue hangs next to a poster of tropical fish. These colorful creations decorate the back wall of The Big Fish Dive Centre in Ara Tapu, Rarotonga. It takes careful investigation to realize that these works of art all come from plastic garbage.

“They call me the garbage lady,” Sabine laughs, “garbage is my baby.” People drop off garbage to Sabine regularly. Right now, she is awaiting a critical mass of browngreen-white Nescafe packets to weave her next handbag.

To the right of Sabine’s desk lies a side room overflowing with the garbage gifts that strangers bring. This “garbage room,” has yellow yum-yum noodle wrappers, orange surf washing powder bags, and Nescafe packets piled up high in different plastic bags. “Washing, cleaning, and stripping the plastic takes the most time,” says Sabine. Watching her work, the process of colour sorting and prepping

the garbage for weaving is both time consuming and obsessive. Once she cleans, cuts, and color coordinates the plastic strips she can weave using Cook Islands weaving techniques. “I enjoy every aspect of the process,” she says.

The weaving process she learned from one of the local mamas in 2014. She wondered to herself if strips of dried pandanus leaves could create beautiful woven creations, why couldn’t strips of plastic? She experimented with different designs and made lots of mistakes.

Eventually, she created templates for her coin purses, handbags, laptop covers, and even a hat for her beloved dog Mr. Patch. “It takes forever,” says Sabine, “I can not even calculate the hours and hours and hours.” After sorting, cleaning, and stripping the plastic garbage she must colour coordinate, weave, and stitch her creations together. She doesn’t like parting with them, but she does sell select items to those that appreciate the labour of love and environmental message. Each item has a story. The coin purses each have a Cook Islands lucky penny hidden inside.

Each item bears her “signature,” a bright silver triangle weave on a corner of the finished piece. Currently, she is hard at

As the owner of The Big Fish Dive Centre in Ara Tapu, Sabine understands the importance of minimizing garbage and keeping our oceans clean. She serves on the board of the local environmental NGO Te Ipukarea Society and helps head their waste management programme. In this role, she has gone into schools and shared her technique for turning garbage into woven art. It is a Cook Islands way of looking after our environment. She also promotes the Mana Tiaki (authority of a caretaker or guardian) campaign, which urges visitors to look after our environment by donating to Te Ipukarea Society, using re-useable bags, and avoiding plastic water bottles. Posters promoting the campaign grace her desk. For Sabine, it is as much about the environmental message, as the finished product.

Sabine Janneck’s works of recyclable woven art can be found at The Big Fish Dive Centre or on her Facebook Page Cook Islands Recycling Creations Living Environment (C.I.R.C.L.E.). If you’re wondering what to do with your plastic rubbish at the end of your holiday, drop it off to Sabine.

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with a place beyond the boundaries of a resort. Those tourists who gave the Cook Islands high praise upon departure were of all ages and demographics, but shared an interest in adventure and experience.

The next step for the Tourism team was to think carefully about a brand that would communicate the Cook Islands’ unique strengths, appeal to adventurous travellers, and gain traction within the digital space.

Love a Little Paradise Story: Rachel Reeves

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n 2015, the team at Cook Islands Tourism Corporation took stock of its situation. The bureau’s brand was more than a decade old. Its satellite offices overseas were disseminating mixed messages about the Cook Islands. Tourism bureaus in other Pacific Islands were more effectively leveraging the power of the internet.

All members of the team knew they were selling a desirable product. They knew what anyone who’s been here knows: that the Cook Islands exudes charm, freedom, adventure, and stunning natural beauty.

The problem was communicating the spirit of the place to markets inundated with advertisements for other Pacific destinations.

And so began a comprehensive and expensive rebrand, which a year later is still in progress but already yielding real results.

Cook Islands Tourism’s first step was to identify their product’s comparative

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advantages, or what those in the industry call its unique selling proposition. To do so, the Tourism team looked inward.

“In times past we’ve gone out and contracted expert companies to tell us what we are,” says Karla Eggelton, Cook Islands Tourism’s director of sales and marketing. “This time it was different. We thought, this brand is going to be what our people want. We know the Cook Islands.

We are Cook Islanders. Who better to consult?”

Following a series of community meetings and in-house discussions, Tourism staff outlined the Cook Islands’ assets as a destination. Beyond the obvious ones like beaches and sunshine, they noted the place is small, relatively undeveloped, and accessible to international travellers; they also noted locals are remarkably friendly.

Then, using three years’ worth of data collected from departure cards filled out at the airport, the Tourism team identified its target consumer: the “soft explorer,” or the kind of traveller who wants to engage

Staff realised the brand needed to catch up. No longer were brochures and leaflets their most effective marketing tools; they needed to shift focus. They needed images and video content for social media campaigns. They needed memorable, funny.

With the help of a consultant, the team developed a new logo – hot pink, playful, hibiscus flower, sunshine – and a resonant tagline – Love A Little Paradise. Both now feature on the Cook Islands Tourism website and social media profiles.

The tagline has become an oft-used hashtag.

“The words were chosen very carefully and each of the key words has meaning,” Eggelton says of Love A Little Paradise.

“The first thing that we needed to focus on was awareness. A lot of people don’t know the Cook Islands, so our tagline needed to answer the question what are you?

Paradise is an important word because as soon as you start saying that, it helps people to understand the Cook Islands is a nice, warm, sunny destination. A second advantage we have is accessibility. It’s easy to get around Rarotonga. In other destinations, you get a resort holiday – you go to a hotel and eat three times a day in the same resort and go to the beach and do your activities in the same resort. Here, Rarotonga is your resort.

We want you to go out and experience everything the island has to offer, because here you have the freedom and accessibility to be able to do that. And the reason we’re so accessible and have this sense of freedom is because we’re little.

So rather than little having a negative connotation, we own little. There is no other destination like ours; because of our size we can offer so much.”

The rebrand’s most visible success was the Katu Kanga project, a series of short videos featuring two cheeky Avarua School students, stunning filmography, and engaging humour.

“We wanted to trial some video content that was fun, that was useful, that was energetic,” Eggelton says. “We didn’t want to portray the Cook Islands as sleepy or soporific. We’re more than the destination where you come in white linen and sip cocktails on the beach.”

Conceived and created by a top-notch filmographer who had recently moved to Rarotonga, the series went viral and received ample international media attention. Within weeks, the first Katu Kanga video garnered 100,000 views. The internet sensation made Cook Islanders feel proud and viewers all over the world feel like booking flights.

Cook Islands Tourism has plans to this year produce videos with subtitles in German, Spanish, Italian, and French.

A year after its rebranding exercise began, Cook Islands Tourism offices in eight overseas markets – New Zealand, Australia, North America, the UK, Italy, Germany, China, and Japan – disseminated updated marketing material.

Tourism managers are projecting growth in visitation as a result of the rebrand.

“We just stayed true to our destination,” Eggelton says of the rebranding journey.

“If you stay true to your destination, you really can’t go wrong.”

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s he watched the show, William Numanga felt pride well up in his throat. He sat in a packed amphitheatre at the Polynesian Cultural Center, a place where he and many other Cook Islanders had worked to pay off their tuition at the school next door, Brigham Young University—Hawai’i. They had taken tickets and guided tours and danced on stages in the Tahitian village or the Hawaiian village, but until the summer of 2017 had no village or show of their own. Their country’s only presence has been a flag between the carpark and the entrance.

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or Numanga, who relocated to O’ahu’s North Shore to take at job at BYU in 2011, the familiar dances and drums felt comforting. Exciting, too. He saw an opportunity.

Cook Islands takes centre stage Story: Rachel Reeves

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The PCC is a live museum and cultural village—lush gardens and waterfalls, shops and restaurants, demonstration huts connected by a system of waterways, an amphitheatre spread over 42 acres.

Visitors go there to eat a Polynesian feast and learn how to play Polynesian games and perform Polynesian dances. They go on canoe tours through the waterways that weave through seven villages representing the cultures of Sāmoa, Aotearoa, Fiji, Hawai’i, Marquesas, Tahiti, Tonga, and Rapa Nui. They visit the restaurants, shops, and cafes hawking Polynesian crafts, clothing, jewellery, and treats, and then they watch a 90-minute show featuring more than 100 dancers. The PCC, established by the Mormon church in 1963, consistently ranks among Hawai’i’s top tourist attractions.

Numanga was not the first to consider the marketing potential of a partnership with the PCC. In the 80s, Jon Jonassen—the first Cook Islander to be employed by the PCC—put together a proposal to build a Cook Islands village at the center, a project estimated to cost $2 million. It was a big investment. The plan stagnated.

In April of 2016, the Cook Islands’ Deputy Prime Minister Teariki Heather stopped in Honolulu on his way home from Guam.

Numanga organised for Heather to tour the PCC and meet with the institution’s president, Alfred Grace, and BYU-Hawaii president John Tanner.

Grace was frank: There weren’t enough Cook Islands students to justify the cost of building a village. But he suggested a compromise—an exhibition of Cook Islands culture during the Hawaiian summer, which is peak season for the PCC, an institution that gets hundreds of thousands of visitors a year. The special item might draw tourists, and those tourists, mostly North Americans—many of whom have never heard of the Cook Islands—might book tickets to paradise.

“He said look, why don’t we look at a short-term presence and then we can see

what it would be like, the costs etcetera, and whether it will generate interest in the Center,” Numanga recalls.

In weeks following the meeting, the PCC and the Cook Islands government collaborated to work out the details.

Anthony Turua, secretary at the Ministry

of Cultural Development, saw it as an investment that would pay dividends, and maybe even lead to a permanent presence for the country at Hawai’i’s top attraction.

“PCC does not recognise the Cook Islands as part of the Polynesian region and always groups the Cook Islands as part of

ESCAPE • 71

Tahiti or French Polynesia,” he says now, explaining why government saw this as a worthwhile opportunity. “We need to showcase our cultural identity and a clear separation from French Polynesia. This is our only opportunity to recognise and showcase our cultural identity [so we can] establish a village base at the PCC in later years.”

A month after Heather’s meeting, dates were set. The PCC appointed William Mahoni, who is married to Cook Islander Tania Sadaraka and works at the PCC, to liaise with the Cook Islands government.

He helped to draft a Memorandum of Understanding. Under it, the Cook Islands government agreed to sponsor travel and accommodation for a team of dancers and drummers. The PCC agreed to provide the venue, a nightly meal, and marketing support.

Mahoni recalls apprehension from both sides.

Adds Numanga: “Nobody really knew what to expect.”

In the Cook Islands, the Ministry of Culture and dance troupe leader Tiko Tapurau worked together to select members of the team from a pool of talented performers, including former winners of Dancer of the Year and a former Miss Cook Islands.

In June, eight dancers and five drummers arrived in Honolulu, along with leaders and

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weavers and shopkeepers selling rito hats, fans, TAV dresses, pearls, Te Tika products, and noni juice. They had in their luggage large volumes of brochures produced by Cook Islands Tourism Corporation.

For six weeks, the team performed three shows a day, sometimes more, at the PCC’s Hawaiian and Tahitian villages, and several evenings a week in the center’s main marketplace. Every show was packed. Numanga saw people who watched one show and came back for a second and third in the same day.

Local entertainer Danny Mataroa emceed and told tourists about the islands each performance came from, about the flat atolls and stunning lagoons of the north and the dramatic mountainscapes of the south. At every show Danny talked about the direct flight from Los Angeles to Rarotonga.

There were weaving demonstrations and drumming classes and traditional medicine-making demonstrations and booths selling products.

Though the MOU only required them to perform at the PCC, the group agreed to do overtime in other venues. They danced for thousands of people at a night market in Honolulu and for a crowd of about 600 at the Royal Hawaiian shopping center in Waikiki—a beach Forbes Magazine called

For six weeks, the team performed three shows a day, sometimes more, at the PCC’s Hawaiian and Tahitian villages, and several evenings a week in the center’s main marketplace.

Every show was packed.

Numanga saw people who watched one show and came back for a second and third in the same day. the number one travel destination in the world. Shopping centres around the island wanted them, but there wasn’t time.

“That’s one of the things we talked about if we do another exhibition—bringing in more dancers,” Numanga says. “Our dancers were doing six days a week, three shows a day, and it’s hot in the summer.

The advantage of having more people is that they can rotate. PCC is also wanting to push for more road shows in Waikiki

and other parts of O’ahu; if we can have a steady presence in Waikiki we can draw crowds to the PCC to see more.”

Teuira Napa, a member of the team who now works at PCC and is working toward a degree in Pacific Islands Studies at BYU, remembers being exhausted. When she complained of being tired, her father Piltz, also a BYU alum, would remind her she was part of a team making history, trailblazing for other Cook Islands students, marking a special moment for so many Cook Islands students before her.

As far as reactions from viewers, Teuira says: “People loved us… I can not express how many compliments we received after performing not only from the guests but from the community and staff of the cultural center. They were blown away by our energy and our passion.”

Numanga vouches. “People were so interested,” he says. “They had two main questions: Where is the Cook Islands, and how do we get there? The biggest selling point was the culture itself. They never asked about the beaches, lagoons, hotels – they were intrigued by the culture. It was—it is—so alive and vibrant.”

On the day of their final performance, the team danced on three canoes through the waterways of the PCC, stopping at each Polynesian village as if to announce their arrival at long last.

The crowning event was a free show for the community on the team’s final night, staged in the PCC’s amphitheatre, which seats about 3000 people. The show, which included a 20-minute fashion show sponsored by local label TAV, was a gesture of gratitude to the PCC. Mahoni says the exhibition exceeded the expectations of the PCC.

“We were hoping that it would turn out okay and benefit us,” Mahoni says. “It absolutely did. The group actually set a standard which, really, to be honest, was incredible. We were very impressed with their level of performance. Quite impressed.”

He says PCC tour guides have said unanimously that the Cook Islands show was the most popular attraction for the six weeks the group was there.

“Everyone, even the PCC staff, were saying when you go to the other villages it’s more entertainment but the Cook Islands stuck to the basic culture,” Numanga says. “It wasn’t the jokes or the making fun of tourists, that kind of thing. It was the culture itself. Simple. PCC staff were saying the Cooks is bringing us back to what we used to be 40 years ago and we

need to go back to that. The culture is the entertainment. You don’t have to dilute it or sugarcoat it or add jokes. You just have to stick to the basics, and people will come.”

Piltz Napa, who travelled with the team on behalf of the government, said that while it may take some time, he is “very confident” that one day there will be a Cook Islands village at the Polynesian Cultural Center.

The Polynesian Cultural Center and the Cook Islands government are in discussions presently about putting on another exhibition during the summer of 2018. To learn more about the PCC, visit Polynesia.com.

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Prison s e l e l u Uk Story: Amelia Borofsky

D

riving on the main road through Arorangi the flame trees light up the sky with bright vermilion. From Avarua town, take a left onto the back road and follow the signs to Prison Services. Why look for the only prison in the country while on holiday?

Because it boasts the finest ukuleles.

Walking into the front office, an array of ukuleles brightens the newly renovated arts and crafts shop. Made of iron-wood, mahogany, or native hibiscus, prisoners produce these works of art as part of their rehabilitation programme. They craft each one by hand and then paint brightly colored sunsets, palm trees, or traditional motifs to adorn the musical instrument.

The Prison Arts and Crafts Shop sells two kinds of ukulele. The larger Tahitian version sells for $100 to $150 and is entirely made out of wood with eight strings. The smaller Cook Islands version sells for $50 to $100 and is made out of a coconut shell and wood with four strings. Both play beautifully. For the quality and craftsmanship, no other place on Rarotonga sells a more affordable ukulele.

The ukulele first came to Polynesia from the Portuguese and Spanish immigrants that landed on these shores. The Portuguese and Spanish guitar transformed into the four-stringed ukulele.

The word ukulele actually means jumping (lele—Hawaiian; rereRarotongan) flea (uku—Hawaiian; kutu--Rarotongan), so named for the plucking strum method and movement of the player’s fingers. Today, fingers all over the world pluck at the lightweight well-travelled instrument. Relatively easy to learn, the ukulele

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deserves to be played. Its island melodies provide joy, a salve, and a memory.

The Prison Arts and Crafts Shop is part of the prison’s larger rehabilitation programme.

Prisoners learn plumbing, building, electrical wiring, catering, cooking, agricultural, husbandry, entrepreneurship, reading, writing, and other skills that can help them contribute to the community after they finish their sentences. Visitors with an interest in learning more about the social issues in these islands can sit under the mango tree and talk stories with the prison guards. The prison uses a Maori model of family. Wardens see themselves as brothers and fathers to the thirty-odd people serving time there.

They want to help prisoners integrate into society when they leave and often continue to support former inmates on the outside. Buying a ukulele from the prison means you help the prisoners earn a small income, support the prison rehabilitation programmes, and learn a little about social issues facing the Cook Islands.

Arorangi Prison Arts and Crafts Shop: Ph 29457 Open 8.30am – 3pm Monday – Friday

INAUGURAL AITUTAKI MARATHON 2018 PROGRAM FOR THE WEEK MONDAY 30 APRIL PASTA NIGHT & RACE BRIEFING

A Pasta Dinner held at Tamanu Beach Resort for all runners and supporters will commence at 5.30pm. There will be a full race briefing and the opportunity for final race registrations to be completed.

TUESDAY 1 MAY

RACE DAY

All 3 distances will start at 0600am from Ootu Point. Complimentary busses will be available to pick up participants in the morning to get you to the start line by 0500.

Busses will run from 0430am. Pick up locations and times to be advised at race briefing. Race Numbers and final check in will be conducted from the Race Control Marquee prior to the race. At the finishing of the race, there will be complementary coconut juice, water, light snacks and tropical fruit for all runners & supporters.

Feel free to join us at the Boatshed Bar and Grill for “Finish line” drinks from 5pm onwards.

WEDNESDAY 2 MAY

LAGOON/REST DAY - PRIZE GIVING DINNER

What better way to recover from the previous days running than a day out on the stunning Aitutaki Lagoon. For many years our people have sat and soaked in the waters of Aitutaki Lagoon as a way of easing the aches and pains in our muscles and joints. The Official Prize Giving Ceremony and Dinner will begin at 6pm. At the Aitutaki Game Fishing Club.

THURSDAY 3 MAY

RUNWAY 5KM FUN RUN

Another first for Aitutaki, with our Runway Fun Run. Run will start at 1700 (after the planes have left) heading south to the end of the runway and back. Afterwards those inclined are invited back to the Aitutaki Golf Club for a couple of cold ones.

FRIDAY 4 MAY

INTERNATIONAL STAR WARS DAY HASH HARRIERS RUN

If you’re still bemused…. “May the 4th be with you” gives rise to the 4th of May being International Star Wars Day so what better way to celebrate than with a Space Themed Hash House Harries Run. Run starts 5pm from the Aitutaki Game Fishing Club. International Hash House Harriers Rules apply.

CONTACT DETAILS Turama Pacific Travel Group Destination Management Cook Islands (DMCK) Telephone: + 682 – 23026 Mobile: + 682 – 74685 Email: events@dmck.co.ck Website: www.dmck.com

an old potter who unfortunately left Tim quite disheartened and uninspired with the Arts. Despite this there was still a drive to pursue this talent and slowly he developed his portfolio of work. Life was to give him another turn.

Story: Nick Henry

Tim Buchanan Artist in residence – Tamanu Beach Resort Aitutaki

T

he Tamanu Beach Resort as a part of their recent bungalow refurbishment program has commissioned Cook Islands (Aitutaki) Artist Tim Buchanan to complete a set of artworks for the new look bungalows.

Owners Michael & Kuraono Henry have insisted on a distinct Aitutaki feel and character in the bungalows with a blend of sunset and lagoon colours throughout.

Maintaining this Aitutaki flavour all workers contracted on the year-long project are from Aitutaki and they built using locally milled Tamanu timber bench tops and local timber furniture and fittings.

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To put in the finishing touches the “piece de resistance" so to speak we have sought help from our family - Tim Buchanan.

Renowned Cook Islands artist Tim Buchanan grew up in the village of Ureia, just down the road from the Tamanu Beach resort. Tim Buchanan was an artist before he started school sketching away on whatever paper and pencils he could find.

Passion. As a young boy Tim did most of his artwork schooling via correspondence in an old "shed" that doubled as the rugby clubhouse on the weekends.

As a teenager Tim continued to pursue this passion at Wairarapa College in Wellington, New Zealand. His teacher was

Before the days of mobile phones ...Tim was calling his girlfriend from a phone booth and in his excitement left his portfolio of work in the booth never to be found again. This led to a job interview and a 9-year career in banking.... but still the desire to express his imagination in art form burned strong.

A man of many talents Tim enjoyed playing guitar on the Blues Tuesdays a concept he launched when managing the famous watering hole, the Banana Court in Avarua. Tuesdays would rock with these jam sessions with "unexpected" local personalities including tall John McFadzien, Tere Davis, Alastair from treasury and Rahui Vaka on drums - when he wasn't sweeping the floors.

Even the famous BC could not escape the brush of Buchanan. With the Vaka bar inland side being painted green with brown timber furniture representing the land and the lagoon blue walls and sand white furniture on the seaside representing the coast of Rarotonga. The Blues Night that Tim started was also the launch-pad for

A I T U TA K I • CO O K I S L A N D S

Tamanu Beach

Tamanu Beach CASUAL LUXURY

Rahui Vaka now known as "Brother Love" and his famous track "Ruketekete e Mama e".

Life after the BC... Tim was working at the Ministry of Cultural development back in 1994 and he was tasked to encourage local artists and try and secure sponsorship from the private sector. During this exercise he approached several prominent local businessmen seeking their support. When he met with Brian Baudinet - Brian said "yeah sure I will support a local artist how about you - I saw a piece you did some years back and I thought it was pretty good" Tim says, "Brian supported me for 2 years to get me started... I worked long hours and researched various traditional methods in an effort to form a distinct Cook Island style. My sources were our carving, tapa and our tivaevae designs. I get my inspirations from nature and then abstract their natural form - as our taunga did 100’s of years ago”.

Tim has created artwork for the Tamanu Beach resort in the past - with a series of 3D images depicting a unique look at our Ariki of Aitutaki. Tim’s work is also featured in the Tamanu Beach Restaurant in a large canvas of Vaka sails telling the story of the young Henry family of Aitutaki. It was especially fitting that Tim be asked to return home to complete a brand-new series of imagery for our bungalows.

Tim has been back home now for the past 2 months working on the concept of a set of dramatically new "abstract" images of Aitutaki Island. Like most artists Tim prefers not to display his work until it is complete - a set of 15 pieces of Art. For those of you who wish to purchase his art please contact Tim on Ph +682 77363

Takurua Island Night

EVERY THURSDAY RESERVATIONS ESSENTIAL

Ph. 31 810 W W W.TA M A N U B E AC ESCAPE H . CO• 77 M

i k a t u t i A

a little slice of heaven

K

ia Orana!

Aitutaki is 220 kilometers north and an easy 45-minute flight from Rarotonga, the capital of the Cook Islands. Considered one of the most magnificent lagoons in the world with small uninhabited islands on its surrounding reef, it is unquestionably the most picturesque of the Cooks southern group islands.

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... a visit to the Cook Islands is not complete without visiting Aitutaki. It is a place of unsurpassed natural beauty and simple tranquility, providing a rejuvenating tonic to sooth away the pressures of the outside world.

Many visitors to the Cook Islands take the opportunity to discover Aitutaki’s beauty by taking a day trip from Rarotonga, which usually includes a cruise on the lagoon. However, the luxury of a little extra time fully reveals the stunning palette of a tropical retreat unsurpassed anywhere in the world; and a welcoming and friendly local populace who live life at an easy, relaxed pace. So, if you’re

considering a visit - stay over a night or two, or preferably longer; you will not be disappointed.

And certainly, a visit to the Cook Islands is not complete without visiting Aitutaki. It is a place of unsurpassed natural beauty and simple tranquility, providing a rejuvenating tonic to sooth away the pressures of the outside world. The breathtaking allure

of its crystal clear turquoise waters and sparkling white beaches confirms that it is “one of the places to visit while you are still on this earth”.

From the air this island paradise has to be one of the most beautiful sights in the South Pacific. Aitutaki is made up of a triangular-shaped reef encompassing an aqua lagoon in which three volcanic and

ONE INCREDIBLE DESTINATION ... Aitutaki Escape. Journey to the very heart of Polynesia.

ph. (682) 31906 mob. (682) 55755 reservations@aitutakiescape.com www.aitutakiescape.com

ESCAPE • 79

twelve small coral islands nestle. A small island is known locally as a motu.

The best thing about Aitutaki is undoubtedly its lagoon. They have taxis here, but rather than those normally found on land, these are small fast boats equipped with outboard motors. They can take you to your own private island where you can spend the day snorkeling, sunbathing or having a picnic, and then pick you up after several restful, sun-filled hours.

There are also numerous lagoon tours, which last almost an entire day. Lunch, refreshments, snorkeling gear, and towels are always provided and nearly all tour operators can pick you up from the airport, or your hotel. Possibly the most well-known is Air Rarotonga’s day tour onboard Titi-ai-Tonga, a large double hulled vessel that cruises languidly in the lagoon. Sit down meals are served by friendly staff, and after snorkeling in the lagoon visitors are taken to One Foot Island (Tapuaetai).

The highlight of Aitutaki is her lagoon and a visit is not complete without joining us for a fun filled day cruising this spectacular wonder.

Explore the incredible marine life while snorkeling and swimming. We offer a range of tours and lagoon taxi services, hotel transfers, snorkeling gear, beach towels and BBQ lunch on the famous One Foot Island.

We are also ‘Island Wedding’ specialists.

Tel: +682 31009 Email: bishopcruz@aitutaki.net.ck Visit our website to discover more...

www.bishopscruises.com 80 • ESCAPE

Bishops Cruises is perhaps the lagoon’s most experienced and they offer a choice of cruises to various islands. And you can opt for a smaller boat with a more intimate and personal tour if you wish. After a wonderful morning of snorkeling and feeding the fish, lunch is usually served at One Foot Island which boasts what could be the world’s smallest Post Office. Don’t forget to take your passport with you; because you can have it stamped here, making a great souvenir of your visit.

This vast lagoon was once a stopover for the TEAL (Tasman Empire Airways Limited) Short Solent flying boats traveling the renowned ‘Coral Route’ through the South Pacific. TEAL is the former name of Air New Zealand and TEAL themery can be found in a small lodge on Motu Akaiami. The lodge has been built on the exact spot where the original terminal stood and remains of the original base and jetty are still visible today. Here the well-to-do of the fifties, including movie stars John Wayne, Cary Grant and the like, stopped for a few hours or even overnight, while planes were refuelled, serviced, or waiting for weather to clear. Passengers would

The runway has recently been completely rebuilt.

Charmingly small, quaint even, Aitutaki airport is the busiest it’s been since the war days. swim in the clear warm waters in the bay, shower outdoors under the palms and eat lunches of crisply cut sandwiches and local pawpaw, before re-embarking.

Aitutaki has an interesting aviation history. It was 1942 when the construction juggernaut that would soon become known as the Seabees came ashore and began constructing what many feared would be the last line of defence for allied forces fighting the Japanese. The airport at Aitutaki was constructed as part of operation Bobcat. With their slogan” we build – we fight”, the Seabees soon had the island air-base operational; just in time to see them move from this part of the Pacific, as they pursued the Japanese further to the north and west. The runway has recently been completely rebuilt.

Charmingly small, quaint even, Aitutaki airport is the busiest it’s been since the war days.

Back further in time; the first European discovery was by Captain Bligh sailing on the Bounty in 1789. He sighted the island just 17 days prior to the infamous mutiny.

Bligh returned later to Aitutaki and is said to have introduced the pawpaw which, like other varieties of tropical fruit, grows in abundance all over the island.

50 years later the first missionary, the Reverend John Williams of The London Missionary Society, introduced Christianity to Aitutaki and the Cook Islands Christian Church, down by the wharf at Arutanga, became the very first Church built in the Cook Islands. A grand old lady with coral

walls, stained glass windows and ornate ceiling decorations, she is a constant inspiration to locals and a reminder that Aitutaki was the first of the nation’s islands to embrace Christianity.

Delving further into the islands past is local archaeologist Ngaakitai Pureariki. On a four-acre site in one of Aitutaki’s bush-clad valleys Nga’a is uncovering remnants of his peoples’ ancient past on a site strewn with large obelisk-like stones. Carbon dating of samples reveal that the Marae at Paengariki was established around 1000

AITUTAKI

From automatic fullyscooters to oose ch , rs ca loaded it su your a vehicle to needs l ua individ rge from our la … et fle

Our well-maintained and modern fleet includes 4 door cars & hatchbacks, soft tops and automatic scooters

Phone: (682) 31739 | Email: rentals@popoara.co.ck www.popoaraoceanbreeze.com ESCAPE • 81

Scuba diving is excellent in clear, warm waters and there is a choice of accredited operators who will show you a great time and a memorable underwater experience.

A.D. Warriors met here before and after battle; sacred feasts and coming-of-age ceremonies were celebrated and human sacrifice took place. This is a fascinating place to visit for the Aitutaki Cultural Tour at Punarei.

Visitors will find a wide range of accommodation options available on the main island; from award-winning resorts to less expensive clean and comfortable motels and backpacker operations. The best way to see the

Aitutaki mainland is by hired car or motor scooter. A winding road criss-crossing the island and lots of small tracks, lead to interesting, unexpected places and a number of local villages. A short drive up Maunga Pu provides a fantastic 360 degrees’ lookout of the entire vista – whichever way you turn. Several guided tours are available on the main island, visiting ancient sites, burial grounds and major points of interest. Most serve light refreshments or lunch.

game and sport fishing beyond the reef and there is always the call of the elusive bone-fish within the lagoon. On the waterfront near the wharf at Arutanga, is the Aitutaki Game Fishing Club which has a bar inside a shipping container; this is a good place to make contacts for deep sea fishing enthusiasts. Scuba diving is excellent in clear, warm waters and there is a choice of accredited operators who will show you a great time and a memorable underwater experience.

Island nights with cultural shows are on throughout the week.

Experiences not be missed are the island nights at Pacific Resort Aitutaki, Aitutaki Village and Tamanu Beach. Some of the best meals using local produce are to be savoured at Tamanu Beach and Aitutaki Escape on the western side of the island and at O’otu Beach you will find The Boatshed, Koru Café and the Blue Lagoon Restaurant and Bar. All are great places to visit whether you want lunch or dinner or just a drink and to relax and to take in the Islands atmosphere.

Hot sun, white sands, swaying coconut palms, a stunning turquoise lagoon and romantic sunsets - Aitutaki is blessed with them all; and friendly, laughing people that make you feel very welcome – all the time.

Fishing aficionados will be in heaven on Aitutaki, as several operators offer

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the only g

l a s s b o t t o m b o a t i n A it ut a k

i

Relax with a cold drink while you enjoy the cool breezes and ocean view.

Enjoy a simple all-day menu, or a-la-carte dinner menu featuring local seafood.

We are the restaurant of Popoara Ocean Breeze Villas.

P. 31479 | Email: boatshed@popoara.co.ck www.popoaraoceanbreeze.com

Ph (682) 31322 or 56170 or 70281

www.lagooncruisesaitutaki.com ESCAPE • 83

Atiu Be different, come to Atiu, our little Garden of Paradise

Enua Manu

T

here are few places left in the world like Atiu, an island with just over 500 people and acres and acres of untouched rainforest and coastal bush.

There are no western bars (apart from the small one at Atiu Villas), bright neon lights or busy roads. For travellers searching for an island paradise, Atiu is it.

Most overseas visitors to Atiu lament on departure that they wish they’d organised a longer stay on this unspoiled island gem, full of captivating history, scenery and friendly people.

The Anatakitaki Cave walk is the perfect offering for visitors who want an unforgettable nature experience. On the

... an island with just over 500 people and acres and acres of untouched rainforest and coastal bush. day we went, we were guided by Marshall Humphreys. Married to Atiuan Jeanne, Marshall is proud of Atiu conservation and how the locals “always leave a bit for the next day, like when they go fishing and catch just enough to eat.” He’s also impressed with the way the island works as a community.

Reasonable fitness and covered shoes are needed for the trek through tropical forest that resembles a fantastically overgrown garden. Regarded by environmentalists as a national treasure, Anatakitaki Cave is home to the Kopeka bird, a swallow unique to Atiu, which like a bat, navigates its way in the pitch black caverns using sonar.

The towering limestone caverns contain cauliflower coral, proving that the caves

u i t A las l i V

Atiu is an exciting eco island adventure you shouldn’t miss. Make this a prime destination or stop off on your way to, or from Aitutaki for a little extra airfare. Stay in comfort at Atiu Villas, the island’s most experienced hosts. Amenities and services include a licensed restaurant and bar, swimming pool, tennis court, tour packages, rentals and free Wi-Fi.

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BOOK ONLINE AT: www.atiuvillas.com Ph. (682) 33 777 | Email. roger@atiuvillas.com | www.atiu.info

were once beneath the sea, as these coral formations only occur underwater. There are huge stalactites reaching to the cavern floor and massive stalagmites sparkling as though they are embedded with millions of diamonds. The magnificence of the caverns is breathtaking.

Another tour takes you to Rimarau Burial Cave that includes visits to age old marae and “walking the dramatic route taken by hundreds as they went to meet their death in ancient times.” If beaches, historic sights and panoramic scenery also appeal, opt for an island tour. It offers contrasting scenery, drives through shady roads and forest thick with ancient trees to coastal tracks and points of interest including the coral garden, sinkholes and fabulous little beaches ideal for shell collecting or leisurely lolling in the warm, pristine sea.

For travellers searching for an island paradise, Atiu is it.

George Mateariki, better known as Birdman George, takes us on his morning tour – first stop is to catch a glimpse of the endangered Kakerori bird. We are a bit startled as George begins loudly beeping his car horn as we near the nesting ground. He explains that being inquisitive birds, Kakerori are drawn to unusual noises. He calls to them, walking through the picturesque bush and making kissing noises. The birds do not disappoint, replying with their call sounds. To see Kakerori so close is a real treat, as they were once on the brink of extinction.

Along the way, George points out medicinal plants and how they are used to treat various ailments. “I love my history and everything I know about Atiu was taught to me by my grandfathers,” says George.

A fun experience is a visit to one of the legendary Atiu tumunu – ‘clubs’, where local men gather to drink homebrew and chat about island affairs, with clear rules about conduct. Often there’s a stringband for added entertainment. Visitors are always welcome to stop in, partake of a cup of the local brew and meet the locals.

“There’s money in the land,” says Mata Arai, pointing to her coffee bushes laden with ripe berries. Mata is an industrious Atiuan woman who produces the 100 percent Atiu Island Coffee using a technique she learnt from her grandmother as a child. It’s a process all done by hand. Atiu Island Coffee can be purchased from Mata’s home, in Atiu stores, or supermarkets on Rarotonga.

fact file: Atiu is a 45 minute flight north-east from Rarotonga and there are regular scheduled flights. Alternatively, why not consider an Air Rarotonga ‘Two Island Adventure’ which includes two night’s accommodation at Tamanu Beach Resort in Aitutaki and two night’s accommodation at Atiu Villas on amazing Atiu. Local tours are optional and extra. Available from April to October, flights depart Rarotonga on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.

Book through Air Rarotonga Tel: (682) 22888 | www.airraro.com

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c i f i c a P h t u o S Our

Home

a

sprinkling of island gems on an indigo blue ocean... The Cook Islands combined make up a land area of just 240 square kilometers. They are scattered far and wide in the vast expanse of the South Pacific Ocean, covering a total area of 2.25 million square kilometers. Each of these ‘gems’ is unlike any other; all having their own special characteristics and every one offering a warm welcome to visitors.

The Southern Group Atiu See our story on page 84.

Takutea Just a few miles off the coast of Atiu lies the uninhabited island of Takutea.

Numerous seabirds thrive on this pristine island that has been declared a bird sanctuary by the Atiu Island Council. Only they can give permission for visitors to land there.

Mauke The garden island of the Cook group, Mauke is 18 kilometres around. It is surrounded by makatea (fossilised coral) with a volcanic plateau in the centre. Parts of the foreshore are dotted with isolated white sandy coves and caves that one can swim in. Inland there are fresh water caves and the famous Motuanga Cave

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that has galleries reaching beneath the reef. The reef is so close to the foreshore that crashing white breakers are visible from most of the unsealed coral road that runs around the island. Do visit the “divided church” built where the villages of Ngatiarua and Areora meet. Shared by the two villages, it has two separate entrances and sitting areas. There are clean and comfortable places to stay in Mauke - try Ri’s Retreat or Tiare Holiday Cottages.

They can also organise cave, reef and forest tours. Be sure to obtain a garland of the fragrant maire, a creeper that grows along the makatea. Mauke is picturesque, unhurried and tranquil – a wonderful tonic for frayed nerves.

Mitiaro Of the cluster of islands in the southern group called Nga Pu Toru, Mitiaro would be the least visited by tourists. Not because

it is any less beautiful than sister islands Atiu and Mauke, but simply that it is the least known. In the centre of Mitiaro are two lakes full of itiki, freshwater eels.

Mitiaro itiki are considered a delicacy in the Cook Islands. Tilapia (bream) are also abundant in the lakes. The lakes are from time to time protected by a traditional raui, a prohibition on all fishing to preserve stocks. At its widest point, the island is 6.4 km across and private gardens in the village are beautifully kept and neat.

Community activities include fishing, sports, handicrafts and uapou, or village singsongs. Pretty and unspoiled, life on Mitiaro is refreshingly uncomplicated.

Mangaia Imagine visiting a fairly large island where you and maybe a handful of others are the only tourists. Mangaia is an island of incredible, serene beauty – from

Right: Mangaia Previous page: Manuae

its rugged coastline to the lush, green interior. It is peaceful beyond belief for those accustomed to the constant rush and haste of the outside world. This is a place where one can trek for miles along the coast or in the interior and not meet another soul or hear a vehicle. Nor see any dwellings; just lots of well-tended plantations of pineapples, vegetables, taro, kumara and other crops.

Deep-sea fishing excursions are available – just ask your host, who can also steer you in the right direction for guided tours that include caving, reef/lagoon walks, bush walks and bird watching. Check out the market on Friday mornings in the ‘town’ centre and the craftwork by the skilled Mangaian women. The shell necklaces and woven pandanus bags are labour intensive and sold for very reasonable prices. Mangaia is the destination for those who love the outdoors, appreciate peace and quiet and want to experience a friendly island that’s not in the least “touristy.”

Palmerston Made famous by Englishman William Marsters, who settled there in 1863 with three wives. He later married and raised a large family. Marsters’ modern day descendents are scattered all over the world. About 60 still remain in Palmerston, which has six motu or islets in a big blue lagoon about 11 km across. The family exports fish, supplying in particular, parrot fish to Rarotonga restaurants. Palmerston hosts the occasional cruise ship and yachts frequently call in. The island also boasts one of the world’s most isolated bars, where thirsty yachties can enjoy a “cold one” and hear tales being regaled by the islanders. It is 500 km NW of Rarotonga.

Manuae Manuae is an uninhabited nature reserve and an important seabird and turtle breeding ground. Its two islets in a large shallow lagoon make-up this incredibly beautiful island, situated about 100 km SE of Aitutaki. Many Aitutakians can claim traditional land rights to parts of Manuae.

Once inhabited by work gangs of Cook Islands men who produced copra, it is now only occasionally visited by Aitutaki fisherman for its rich fishing grounds outside and within the lagoon. It is possible to view Manuae from the air, on a flight from Atiu to Aitutaki.

Ever wanted to run away?

To get lost on a deserted island?

To hide out with a group of friends and stay as long as you want?

Why not charter your own plane and explore the magnificent outer islands of the Cooks.*

Plaonur y

LM/SD 2022123

own

Call our Travel Centre on 22-888 and we’ll help you escape!

Optional extras include:

Inflight catering Experienced tour guide Ground tours & sightseeing Overnight adventure accommodation in the far north to luxury resorts on breath-taking Aitutaki

* We also offer charters

Island E scape

to Niue and Tahiti

www.airraro.com

Left: Pukapuka Next page: Suwarrow

writer Robert Dean Frisbie settled there in 1924 and immortalised Pukapuka in the books he wrote about life on the island. The now uninhabited area where he lived with his Pukapuka wife and children is one of the most beautiful – an untouched white sandy beach with palm trees reaching out to tease the clear blue lagoon.

According to legend, almost 500 years ago the Pukapuka population was almost entirely wiped out during a catastrophic storm that struck the island.

Fourteen people survived, from whom Pukapukan’s today are said to descend.

The Northern Group Suwarrow Suwarrow is one of the few "untouched" sanctuaries left in the world where existing endangered species can survive.

The Suwarrow National Park is the first National Park in the Cook Islands - international environmental groups recognise the group of tiny atolls as an untouched haven and breeding area for turtles, sea birds and crabs. Because of the lack of human intervention, Suwarrow is acknowledged as one of the most important sea bird breeding areas in the Pacific. A caretaker and his family live on Suwarrow during the cyclone off-season, between April and November each year.

Yachts often visit the island during these months. Suwarrow was made famous

by New Zealand hermit Tom Neale, who lived there during the early 1950’s and

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again in the early 1960’s. He wrote about his experiences in his book “An Island to Oneself.”

Pukapuka Lying northwest 1150 km from Rarotonga, Pukapuka is one of the most isolated islands of the Cook group. One interisland flight from Rarotonga about every six weeks and irregular shipping has kept Pukapuka one of the most untouched and secluded places in the Pacific. Its remoteness has also kept the traditions and culture of Pukapuka largely unchanged for centuries. Islanders speak the distinct Pukapukan language as well as Cook Islands Maori. According to legend, almost 500 years ago the Pukapuka population was almost entirely wiped out during a catastrophic storm that struck the island. Fourteen people survived, from whom Pukapukan’s today are said to descend. The late American

Nassau Access to this tiny island of about 80 Pukapukans can only be gained by interisland boat. Regarded as the sister island of Pukapuka, a voyage from Rarotonga takes about three days. The islanders are adept at surviving an isolated lifestyle that remains unchanged year after year.

Nassau was hooked up to the country’s telephone system only in 2001 and many of the people had never used a telephone before. Just 1.2 sq. km in size, where families live in kikau thatched cottages.

Manihiki The cultured black pearl capital of the Cook Islands. Quality black pearls become centrepieces for fine jewellery that are worn by women and men all over the world. In 1997, the island survived one of the worst cyclones in Cook Islands history.

It claimed 19 lives after a tidal wave swept men, women and children out into the huge, raging lagoon. Pearl farms dot this remarkable lagoon. Villagers use small outboard boats to travel between Tukao and Tauhunu – two villages on separate islets – or to their pearl farms set up on coral outcrops. Some of the pearl farms are sophisticated operations jutting out of the deep blue lagoon, complete with small gardens and poultry farms that help support workers who live in modern quarters. Manihiki women have made history for entering what was once a male dominated vocation. A number of women own and manage their own pearl farms, diving, seeding and cleaning the oyster

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Suwarrow was made famous by New Zealand hermit Tom Neale, who lived there during the early 1950’s and again in the early 1960’s. He wrote about his experiences in his book “An Island to Oneself.”

Unlimited Kilometres shells all year around. The women are also renowned for their finely woven craftwork. Manihiki is astonishingly beautiful and those who have been fortunate enough to visit the island, have never been disappointed.

Rakahanga Sister island of Manihiki and 42km north-west. Visits to Rakahanga are only possible by boat from Manihiki or inter-island vessel.

There are two main islands and seven islets in the Rakahanga lagoon. The island is picturesque and unspoiled.

Penrhyn Penrhyn (or Tongareva) is the most remote of the Cook group, lying 1365 km NNE of Rarotonga. It has a remarkable blue water lagoon measuring 233 sq km. A 77-km coral reef encircles the islets in the extraordinary lagoon. The villages of Tetautua and Omoka are on different islets that are barely visible to each other. Penrhyn island women make the finest rito craftwork in the Cook Islands. Hats, bags, fans and mats made in Penrhyn are amongst the best to be found anywhere in the world.

Airport Pick-up & Drop-off Afterhours Roadside Assistance LOCATIONS Downtown Avarua Pacific Resort Muri Rarotonga International Airport RESERVATIONS Phone: (682) 22833 Email: reservations@aviscookislands.com

Find us on Facebook

www.aviscookislands.com ESCAPE • 89

plants & animals

Here we try to shed some light on the background and existence of a culturally significant plant and animal.

Story: Kirby Morejohn

Giant Clam

Pa'ua

Tridacna species

H

ere in the Cook Islands, pā’ua, as giant clams are locally known, are a prized food source that are targeted by local fishers. They’re generally harvested

Ara

Pandanus

P

Currently, there are four species of giant clams that can be found in the Cook Islands, of which two of them are native to the Cooks. The native clams grow to about the size of a rugby ball, while the non-native species grow much larger.

One of the introduced, non-native clam species is Tridacna gigas. It is the world’s largest clam and can grow to well over a meter in length, weighing over 200 kilos.

Several T. gigas clams can be seen in the Aitutaki Lagoon and their native relatives can even be viewed at the Aitutaki Marine

Station at the pā’ua hatchery, When the pā’ua open their distinctively wavy shells, their brilliantly colored mantles (the clam’s visible tissue), are exposed in shades of blue, green, red, yellow and brown.

Pā’ua are long-lived slow growing, with some exceeding 100 years in age. These life history traits make them extremely vulnerable to overharvesting. In fact, all species of giant clams have global trade protections because they have been severely depleted in most oceans.

Depending on your home country, even importing empty giant clam shells can violate international laws, so when in the Cooks, it is best to take photos but leave shells where you found them.

pendulous flowers can be smelled from great distances.

Pandanus species

andanus trees are beautiful, resilient and boast many local uses, traits similar to other significant trees in Polynesian culture. Locally known as ara, “pandanus” is both the genus and the English name for a large group of shrubs and small trees. They are easily identifiable by their tubular shaped ‘prop roots’ that form a pyramid that emerges from low on the trunk. These characteristic stabilizing roots aid in the tree’s growth in loose, sandy soil. Leaves, which are most often green but sometimes with yellowish hues, spiral out of the ara’s multiple leafy heads. Often times, fruits that resemble pineapples in size and shape are buried within the spiky foliage. When in bloom, the pandanus tree’s sweet white

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on low tides in shallow waters by wading or snorkeling, and enjoyed either on site or back at home with a bit of fresh coconut cream. Clam recipes vary from family to family and from island to island. Once the meat is eaten, the beautiful white, wavy shells are often repurposed in the home as soap dishes, door stops and display pieces.

Because pandanus seeds are capable of resisting salt water for long periods of time, they colonized many Pacific islands long before humans arrived. However, because of the plant’s utility and resiliency, it was of vast importance to Polynesians and therefore, preferred varieties were carried by voyagers en route to new lands.

In the Cook Islands, the leaves were woven into thatch, mats and clothing. Timber from the prop roots and trunks were used in building construction, and the fruits occasionally eaten. Although still cherished

by Cook Islands culture, as access to modern building materials increases, the use of the pandanus tree has drastically decreased. The trees however remain very common, specifically on the outer islands and on sandy atolls.

Today in the Cooks, the most common use of the ara is in ei construction where they are often paired with tiare teina and tiare Māori flowers. Their brilliant red, orange, yellow and green fruits give off a wonderful sweet smell and are worn proudly by locals and tourists alike.

Guidelines for an enjoyable time at the beach and in the lagoon…

Coral is a living organism! It takes hundreds of years to develop a reef like ours and you can harm the reef just by standing on it; many steps may kill it.

What you can do to help…

• Make sure your gear fits properly, is comfortable and adjusted, before you go in the water. If you need to make adjustments, find a sandy area on which to stand, or swim to the shore.

•

If there is a RAUI (protected marine area) in place, please respect it and leave everything in the lagoon that belongs to it.

•

Observe animals exhibiting their natural behavior rather than stimulating them to entertain.

•

Please do not harass or touch protected species, such as turtles, giant clams and fragile corals.

•

There is no need to feed the fish. To attract them closer just bang two little stones together.

They will come.

•

Please take your rubbish with you when you leave the beach.

Thank you for looking after our lagoon.

Take nothing but memories – leave nothing but bubbles…

Photos: The Dive Centre & Jim Gariu

entertainment guide to live local Cook Islands music and dancing all around town.

Take in the sunset with a cocktail near the water; catch an Island Night Show with beautiful dancers, and get down

Raro’s night life is special – you can have a great night out whether you’re on your own, or with friends. 18 or 80 years old, it doesn’t matter, everyone just gets together. And you’ll feel welcome wherever you go.

Island Night Shows are a must for every visitor. There is nothing better than seeing our beautiful men and women, adorned in flowers and local costume, dancing to the wonderful pate (hollowed wooden drums), ukulele, guitar, and full voiced singers. It is a joyful, sensual and exuberant experience.

Check out our Island Night Shows Guide on these pages to find a venue that suits you.

During the week A number of Rarotonga restaurants feature live music during the week - refer to our Night Life Guide for details of what’s on, when and where.

It’s great to wander into some of our smaller local bars too - the Game Fishing Club is right on the water; meet the locals and play some pool, this bar is just east of town.

If you’re staying around the Muri or Titikaveka area, try Silver Sands Restaurant at Muri Beach Club Hotel, or for a la carte dining and some local music the Pacific Resort, also well known for their Island Night show. For casual ambience, check out the Asian street-style food at The Rickshaw, or mouth-watering Mexican dishes at

No

w a an vai d p lab rem le a ium t Th ou e Bo tle ts nd

A taste of Marlborough IN THE COOK ISLANDS

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La Casita. Take a walk downtown and call into The New Place for great al fresco dining. For a meal and music down south, don't forget The Yellow Hibiscus at Palm Grove.

s r a l l e c 1 . o Your N

On the sunset side, you have great choices from Shipwreck Hut at Aro’a Beachside Inn for casual dining, to OTB at Manuia resort for beachside dining, to Flambe or Oceans at Crown Beach or Kikau Hut especially on Mondays for live music.

Remember that it pays to make a reservation if visiting a restaurant, to avoid disappointment; and if you want music with your meal, ask who their resident singer is that night.

Check the local paper or ask your resort what’s happening at the local sports clubs – join in for some good live music, cheap drinks, and great company.

Local women enjoy dressing up, and the men prefer comfortable shorts, shirt/t-shirt and sandals, but dress code is open.

Friday Night Friday night is party night, as clubs and bars can open until 2am, unlike every other night, which is 12 midnight. Downtown Avarua is a great place to start: First up is a sunset cocktail at Trader Jacks, where there’s always a nice mix of locals and tourists. After a couple of hours, walk across the road to Boogies Bar at the BC (Banana Court), known all over the Pacific. Boogies features local bands from 4pm to 9pm and then its inside for some raw local music and dancing.

Hidies Bar, located in Cooks Corner, has a big open-air dance floor, great drinks, a true island flavour and is Rarotonga’s iconic local hangout, with live bands and resident DJ. Open Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights, Hidies famed ‘Happy Hour’ runs Friday from 4-7pm.

Later in the night it’s back to Rehab for some dancing, or perhaps for some of the latest hip hop, R’n’B, and techno sounds.

The great thing about this town is that the bars are only minutes away from each other. It’s safe and people are friendly and will give you directions. Remember to organise a dedicated driver or taxi if you’re drinking.

An organized Nightlife Tour is another great way to enjoy your Friday night and you won’t need to do the driving.

Remember you’re in Raro now, on ‘Island Time’, so relax and enjoy.

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entertainment guide

Rarotonga night-life guide

Keep our roads safe if you’re drinking:

MONDAY Taxis: Refer to yellow pages and book homecoming fare before you go out.

Buses: Clockwise Bus: Evening bus departs Cook’s Corner clockwise only, every hour Monday to Saturday from 6pm to 11pm.

Times are subject to change so contact the i Site 29435 to confirm.

Island Night Shows – Quick Guide

Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live music Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights Edgewater Resort & Spa: Tok 6:30-8:30 Great Classic tunes, jazz, pop, rock SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Live island music Nooroa & Soko on island strings Pacific Resort: A la carte dining and live local artist Fred Betham

WEDNESDAY Wednesday Edgewater Resort & Spa: Local Band The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa 25800 A la carte Seafood menu with local entertainment Muri Beach Club Hotel 23000 31720

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OTB Bar & Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort: Live entertainment (transfers available)

SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Live Thursday music with Natua and then Island Night with Te Vara Nui Village 24006 Akirata Dance Group Crown Beach Resort & Spa 23953 Crown Beach Resort& Spa: Live music

Friday Highland Paradise Culture Centre

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Captain Andy’s: Tara Kauvai - Mustonen

THURSDAY

Saturday Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: Pub Night menu with live entertainment The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa 25800 Te Vara Nui Village 24006 Shipwreck Hut at Aro’a Beachside Inn: Sunset The Edgewater Resort & Spa 25435 cocktails with live music

Remember you’re in Raro

Edgewater Resort & Spa: Tok 6:30–8:30 Dining with great local music + Edgewater Resorts “Nitelife Tour” Garden Bar - Banana Court: Great local & upbeat music with bar snacks available

Pacific Resort: Tamariki Manuia A la carte dining and live local artist Kahiki Tehaamatai SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Pig & Prawn Night with live music with Rob & Roy Te Vaka Restaurant @ The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa: Flame-Grilled Steak Night @ $36 pp + The Rarotongan’s famous Friday Funbus Nitelife Tour @ $25 pp.

Trader Jacks: Kura every Friday lunch Friday night Rere and the boys - rock classics & seafood, steaks& pizza Yellow Hibiscus: Music every Friday night -Tara Kauvai - Mustonen or Tani & Rose alternate.

Captain Andy’s: Tara Kauvai – Mustonen alternate Fridays

SATURDAY

Shipwreck Hut at Aro’a Beachside Inn: Great beach BBQ with live music Edgewater Resort & Spa: Island Night Buffet & Cultural Show with Orama Dance Group followed

by Tara Kauvai - Mustonen Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights OTB Bar & Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort: Live entertainment (transfers available)

Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live music followed

by Island Night Show

Pacific Resort: Tok 6:30-8:30 A la carte dining and live local artist Kura Happ

Edgewater Resort & Spa: Ru & Boys A la carte menu with great local sounds

Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and Over Water Night Show & Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & island/western fusion buffet

now, on ‘Island Time’, so

Garden Bar - Banana Court: Live Entertainment

relax and enjoy!

Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights

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Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Live Band Steak / Ribs Night with live entertainment

OTB Bar & Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort: Live entertainment (transfers available)

Edgewater Resort& Spa: Ta’akoka Dance Troupe. Island Night Buffet and Cultural show Tuesday followed by Tara Kauvai - Mustonen Te Vara Nui Village 24006 Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and The Islander Hotel 21003 Over Water Night Show & Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & Aitutaki Village, Aitutaki 31526 island/western fusion buffet The Edgewater Resort & Spa 25435

Highland Paradise Culture Centre

FRIDAY

TUESDAY

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Pacific Resort Aitutaki

Sanctuary, Rarotonga: Tara Kauvai - Mustonen

Kikau Hut Restaurant: Great a la carte dining 7 nights a week. Live music some nights

Shipwreck Hut at Aro’a Beachside Inn: Live music on the beach Monday Highland Paradise Culture Centre

Te Vara Nui Village: Cultural Village Tour and Over Water Night Show & Dinner. Spectacular “Dances of Legends” cultural performance & island/western fusion buffet

Captain Andy’s: Tara Kauvai - Mustonen

Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: Seafood Night with entertainment

(Bookings are recommended)

OTB Bar & Restaurant @ Manuia Beach Resort: Live entertainment (transfers available)

Trader Jacks: Music with Tok Watch out for “Brews & BBQ” and special guests monthly at Trader Jacks.

Aitutaki night-life guide

SUNDAY

Anchorage Restaurant @ Sunset Resort: BBQ with live entertainment Club Raro: BBQ night with local string band Crown Beach Resort & Spa: Sunset roast starts at 6pm with live entertainment Edgewater Resort & Spa: Ru & Boys -local string band SilverSands @ Muri Beach Club Hotel: Reef & Beef night with live music with Henry & Destiny

Pacific Resort: A la carte dining and live local artist Rudi Aquino Sanctuary Rarotonga: Tara Kauvai - Mustonen

MONDAY

Bounty Brasserie @ Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa: Fire dance show, a la carte dinner & crab races Tupuna’s Restaurant: Great a-la-carte dining with the freshest local foods in a relaxed garden setting. Mon-Sat from 6pm

TUESDAY

Aitutaki Village: Island buffet and cultural show on the sandy beach at Ootu

WEDNESDAY

Aitutaki Game Fishing Club: A good evening to visit and meet the locals. Where else would you find a bar in a 20 foot container?

The Boatshed Bar & Grill: Check out this popular restaurant any day of the week. A-lacarte menu for lunch & dinner. Great cocktails!

THURSDAY

Tamanu Beach: Island Fire &Dance Show on the beach. Fantastic entertainment with a great selection of food

FRIDAY

Aitutaki Game Fishing Club: One of the most popular local bars to visit for a sun-downer Coconut Crusher Bar: Entertainment and party the night away with your host Ricky

SUNDAY

Aitutaki Village: All day barbeque with great entertainment Tamanu Beach: Sunset Barbeque Night with great local entertainment and island food.

Pacific Resort: Island night South Pacific cuisine and performances by local Aitutaki song and dance troupe

Prices or schedules are subject to change at any time.

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what's on

t

hroughout the year we find many reasons to celebrate and have fun, and there’s always plenty to do and see on Rarotonga and her sister islands. As most Cook Islanders are willing sports participants, you’ll find a multitude of sports codes and clubs active throughout the islands, where you are always welcome to visit. As for festivals and celebratory events, it is certain that you will always find something of interest taking place.

JANUARY TIANUARE Mon 1st New Year’s Day – public holiday Tue 2nd Day after New Year’s Day – public holiday Mon 29th School term 1 begins

FEBRUARY PEPERUARE MARCH MATI Thu 8th Te Mire Atu – Cook Islands Maori Composers competition Tue 13th Penrhyn Gospel Day – Public holiday Penrhyn Sat 17th St. Patricks Day Fri 30th Good Friday - Public holiday

APRIL APERIRA Sun 2nd Easter Sunday Mon 3rd Easter Monday – Public holiday Fri 6th to Sun 15th League Masters Mini Fiesta – Rarotonga and Aitutaki Fri 13th School term 1 ends Mon 23rd St Georges Day Wed 25th ANZAC Day – public holiday

Thu 27th Te Mire Ura Golden Oldies, ex-Pats and visitor finals @ The Islander Hotel Mon 30th School term 2 begins

JUNE TIUNU Fri 1st to Sat 2nd Opera in Rarotonga @ The Islander Hotel Mon 4th Queen’s Birthday – public holiday

MAY ME

Fri 15th

Tue 1st Pursuit in Paradise – Aitutaki marathon race starts at 6am

Mangaia Gospel Day - public holiday in Mangaia

Thu 3rd Te Mire Ura Juniors & Intermediate Grand Finals @ The National Auditorium

JULY TIURAI Fri 6th ‘Ra o te Ui Ariki’ (Ariki Day) – public holiday

Cook Islands International Triathlon Week Commences with Trader Jack’s Boiler Swim

Fri 14th

Aitutaki 5km runway Fun Run starts at 5pm

Thu 19th Atiu Gospel Day – public holiday in Atiu

Sat 5th Air New Zealand Rarotonga Triathlon – @ Titikaveka triathlon site race start 1.30pm

Fri 20th School Term 2 complete – School Holidays begin

Sun 6th Triathlon Awards Dinner

Sat 21st Mitiaro Gospel Day – public holiday in Mitiaro

Mon 7th Hash House Harriers Fun Run and Island Feast next to Sunset Resort Tue 8th Turtles Tour de Raro Cycle race International Red Cross Day Thu 10th Te Mire Ura Senior Open Grand Finals @ The National Auditorium Sun 13th Mother’s day Thu 25th Palmerston Gospel Day – public holiday in Palmerston

Bastille Day

Mon 23rd Mauke Gospel Day – public holiday in Mauke Fri 27th to Sat 4th Aug Te Maeva Nui celebrations

AUGUST 'AUKUTE Mon 6th Constitution day observed Wed 8th Manahiki Gospel Day – public holiday in Manahiki Mon 13th School term 3 begins

All events take place on Rarotonga, unless stated otherwise. Dates and events are provided courtesy of Cook Islands Tourism Corporation and were correct at time of publication, but subject to change without notice. Visitors are advised to confirm event dates with the Visitor Information Centre – phone (682) 29435

96 • ESCAPE

APRIL 6TH TO 15TH League masters Mini Fiesta Rarotonga Fri 6th to Wed 11th Aitutaki Thu 12th to Sun 15th The Cook Islands Rugby League Masters Association was established in 2009 in Rarotonga, Cook Islands. It has more recently been affiliated with the New Zealand Rugby League Masters Association.

The movement focuses on providing opportunities for league players 35 years and older to be able to continue the sport they enjoy. The Cook Islands Rugby League Masters Association is made up of Rarotonga based League Clubs as well as the Aitutaki League Club in the Outer Islands. The Cook Islands Masters 'international' team is known as the Turtles, with the motto of Slow and Steady mimicking the movement of the wise turtle that is a revered icon in Cook Islands Culture. This has served the international touring side with great accolades of sportsmanship as well as camaraderie with fellow players within the Masters movement. For more information see www.cirugbyleaguemasters.com

APRIL 27TH TO MAY 10TH Te Mira Ura Te Mire Ura is an annual event held for individual dancers from the ages of 10 years old right up to 60+. The competition is between male and female dancers according to their categories. They are judged by their performances in the areas of choreography, stage presentation and upper and lower body movements in the different age groups.

During this time of the year we have

6

Events That You Shouldn’t Miss…

dancers joining from the main island of Rarotonga and also some from the outer islands.

The female dancers get to dance a solo to their choice of Cook Islands Maori songs and drumbeat while the male dancers’ memorise a chant and dance to a drumbeat.

The drumbeats are split in two sections: slow beat and fast beat about 1.5 minute long. This is a popular event being run by the Ministry of Culture and happens every end of April to early May

APRIL 30TH TO MAY 4TH

MAY 4TH International Triathlon The main sporting event is the triathlon however the week generally kicks off with Trader Jacks Boiler Swim – about 800m out from Trader Jacks and around the remains of the SS Maitai. There follows on the Saturday the main event with 2 other main events to held later in the week – the Turtles Tour de Raro cycle race and the Matutu Mile Fun Run. If you after something different and laid back then this event is for you and caters to all ages and levels of competition. For more details check out: www.rarotri.com

Pursuit in Paradise Aitutaki marathon This inaugural event will run annually and we believe it will become an icon event for marathon junkies and runners from around the world as well as locals.

We expect around 250 visitors for this event each year. This event will be an international event spanning over 5 days and will be run to international guidelines.

Turama Pacific Travel Group is the event organizer and has engaged the services of a professional event team Destination Management Cook Islands to help in the coordination and running of the event.

For any question, email events@dmck.co.ck

JULY 27TH TO AUGUST 4TH Te Maeva Nui – Celebrating our nation’s independence Every year from July to August about 2000 people on Rarotonga and on the outer islands put their lives on hold to prepare for Te Maeva Nui, the national culture and dance festival. It is a week-long cultural marathon held around the date of August 4th, which is the birthday of the Cook Islands as an independent nation.

You may have seen cultural dance shows around the island, or perhaps in your resort, but you haven’t seen anything that

ESCAPE • 97

NOVEMBER Vaka Eiva Hundreds of paddlers and their supporters hit Rarotonga’s shores in November each year for the Vaka Eiva; an exciting and fun outrigger canoeing festival, which is now the largest sporting event in the country.

Held annually since 2004, Vaka Eiva has established a reputation as a hugely enjoyable week of racing, culture, and festivities, and attracts crews from throughout the world.

even closely resembles the vibrancy and passion of the finals at Te Maeva Nui, held in the National Stadium. This is the cultural

highlight of the Cook Islands year; the only people who are ever disappointed are those who miss it.

VISITOR

INFORMATION CENTRE DOWNTOWN AVARUA NEXT TO ANZ BANK

For more information and to confirm event dates, visitors are advised to contact the Visitor Information Centre – Phone (682) 29435 All dates correct at time of going to print.

RAROTONGA (HEAD OFFICE) PO Box 14, Rarotonga Cook Islands (682) 29435 headoffice@cookislands.gov.ck

NORTHERN EUROPE cookislands@global-tourism.de

AITUTAKI PO Box 3 Aitutaki (682) 31767 tourism.officer@aitutaki.net.ck misepa.isamaela@cookislands.gov.ck

UNITED KINGDOM ukmanager@cookislands.travel

ATIU (682) 33435 mareta.atetu@cookislands.gov.ck NEW ZEALAND Studio 11, Level 3 91 St George Bay Road Parnell, Auckland 1052 +64 (9) 366 1106 nzmanager@cookislands.travel

Advice on accommodation, tours, restaurants, activities, entertainment and travel to our sister islands.

Phone or call in to see us.

OPEN: Monday to Friday 8am – 4pm | Saturday 10am – 1pm 98 • ESCAPE (682) 29435 headoffice@cookislands.gov.ck

AUSTRALIA Suite 129, Level 14 5 Martin Place Sydney, NSW 2000 Australia +61 282 091 658 NORTH AMERICA usamanager@cookislands.travel canadamanager@cookislands.travel

SOUTHERN EUROPE southerneurope@cookislands.travel

CHINA chinamanager@cookislands.travel JAPAN japanmanager@cookislands.travel

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300 TXT

anywhere in the world

Your minutes & TXT can be used worldwide. 4G data is available in Rarotonga and Aitutaki only and requires a 4G capable device. Visitor SIM lasts for 15 days from activation. Once you have used up your preloaded data, minutes and TXT you can eCharge top-up at any of our resellers and Bluesky Outlets on casual rates at 20c per MB, 20c per TXT and 99c per minute. Check out our website for more information on Bluesky 4G mobile data network and for VISITOR SIM details at www.bluesky.co.ck. Effective June 2017.

cook islands black pearls

Cooks Corner, RAROTONGA | Pacific Resort, AITUTAKI p +682 21 902 e luke@bergmanandsons.com w www.bergmanandsons.com