Page 1

winter 13/14

Magic Formula of 3.0. Markup as a Saviour /// Anarchy on the Web. Online Turns Exclusivity on its Head /// The Future of Fashion Trade Shows. Shake Hands or Do Business? ///

# 1.2013

style in progress

"Trade Fairs Are Essential!" Ralph-Michael Nagel, Markus HĂśhn

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008 editorial

Everything's New, Nothing's Different

From the very beginning the "style in progress" described our agenda in many respects. At the very least it expresses our understanding of how the magazine must continue to move forward. The broadening of our content was a welcome opportunity for our Art Director Elisabeth Prock-Huber to explore new visual horizons. For us this process is not a "relaunch"; it is "style in progress". And for a brief moment in time, we are completely satisfied. Cover Photo: Julian Hentzler

113 style in progress

Welcome to these lines. May we just borrow the introductory words used by Markus HĂśhn, Managing Partner at Lodenfrey? "We didn't seek to renovate because the old concept was no longer successful but because we wanted to take the next step. And that has been, I believe, very successful", he says in the style in progress Longview (from Page 082). style in progress has also undergone a renovation. From this issue onwards, the content, editorial department and staff of our magazine will be fused with its big sister - or small brother if you prefer - x-ray. Not because the old concept was no longer successful but because we simply want to take the next step. And because dividing content no longer reflects the reality of the market. So, from now on you will reading style in progress for all the information, background and sophistication from both worlds that, in reality, is only one. The style in progress world and the x-ray world. Or even: The Premium World (Ten-Year Underground Anniversary, from Page 158) and the Bread & Butter World (People expect Visions from Us, from Page 148). That a divide runs between the two worlds is just an anachronism nowadays. In Isabel Faiss and Nicoletta Schapers tradeshow discussion (Why Do Brands Need Tradeshows, from Page 136) it becomes abundantly clear - fashion today is a successful combination of both worlds. The new mix provides plenty of interesting reading material: In this vein, Odessa Legemah had the opportunity of talking with denim-hunter Brit Eaton (Indiana Jones Would Pale, from Page 162). And in his efforts to reach the precious denim, he even climbs abandoned mines. And there he finds the stuff that has turned into a cult object in many of the stores presented by style in progress - especially in the new 14 oz. (Homage to Berlin, from Page 196). With this bold confession of faith towards the speciality retail sector and its uncompromising sophistication, we are opening up a whole series of portraits on those shops that make our hearts beat faster. Brave, uncompromising ideas in Constance, Stuttgart, New York, Berlin, Hamburg, Bozen,

Vienna, Munich and Zurich. More than a sign of life from an industry that thinks its in crisis. Sonja Ragaller illuminates just how important and right it is when companies invest in satisfied employees, in other words, in people, especially today (A Life for the Company, from Page 100). And companies such as RenĂŠ Lezard show just how much others like to invest in companies like these (Investment in Growth, from Page 134), and whose SME loan was sold out in a very short space of time. Others can also score points with healthy growth: Whether it's the one-man company Valentino de Luca (Laugh and the World Laughs With You, from Page 122), proud SMEs such as Harald Heldmann (Fashion Can Only Move Forward, from Page 120) or impassioned captains of industry like Luca Caprai (A Clover Leaf for Every Desire, from Page 126). Those who haven't found their position in the market don't need to sit up and beg. But not all boundaries are so clearly placed: Nicoletta Schapers background report shows that the aquarium often turns into a shark's tank in the online world (Online Anarchy, from Page 106). But "old hands" like Mario Eimuth the founder of Stylebop knows: "Territorial Protection Is Not Possible on the Internet." (from Page 112). And so, we wish you no protection, no rules and no boundaries instead to have the freedom to see fashion for what it is again: A great business opportunity, a beautiful one at that! Enjoy the read, Your style in progress team


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010 CONTENT

The Longview 082 "Multi-Brand Needs to Be More Exciting" style in progress talks with the two Lodenfrey Managing Directors Ralph-Michael Nagel and Markus Höhn

What´s the story 090 Good Deals Are high markups the solution to every problem? 082

096 Italian Luxury Houses Move into “Fashion Valley” The Swiss canton of Ticino as a haven for tax and quality 100 A Life for the Company The Human Factor takes centre stage 106 Online Anarchy? The internet is changing all thoughts of exclusivity 112 “Territorial Protection Isn’t Possible on the Internet” Mario Eimuth on the difficulties involved in brand management in e-commerce 120 “Fashion Can Only Move Forward“ Harald Heldmann's silent success 122 Laugh and the World Laughs with You Valentino de Luca’s happy one-man-show 124 Fortes Fortuna Adiuvat Rockstars & Angels have faith in the L.A. style

114

126 A Clover Leaf for Every Desire Cruciani: Forging ahead with lace 130 Goosey, Goosey, Gander Duvetica: Unconditional quality instead of many words 132 The Self-Made Man Michael Boveleth makes a precision landing with Blonde No.8 134 Investment in Growth René Lezard breaks away from the past and gets ready for the future

The Talk 136 Why Do Brands Need Tradeshows? Shake hands or do business? 147 Bad-Mouthing it to Death A commentary by Martina Müllner 136

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148 “People Expect Visions from Us” Karl-Heinz Müller on the new position of the Bread & Butter


BER L IN BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN 1 5 .  1 7. J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 3 / A I R P O R T B E R L I N T E M P E L H O F URBAN SUPERIOR / HALL 2 / BOOTH H6.10

S H O P AT J O O P. C O M


012 CONTENT

152 “I´m not New Here, You Know“ Alexander Gedat is keeping Marc O’Polo on its true course 154 We’re Winning Market Shares WP Lavori’s 30-year anniversary looks to the past and to the future 158 Ten-Year Anniversary Norbert and Anita Tillmann were right

164

162 Indiana Jones Would Turn Pale A visit to Brit Eaton, the best denim-hunter in the world

Fashion 164 172 180 188

Dog Days Are Over Let’s Get Up, Let’s Get DOWN The Girl Is a Lady Urban Forest

In Store 196 A Homage to Berlin 14 oz. in the House Cumberland 200 Bright Sparks on the Back Burner Meindl Authentic Luxury, Munich 202 Good Stories Ecke 32, Constance 180

204 Dressing Up Is Not What We Do Bel Étage by Bungalow, Stuttgart 206 As She Likes It Five Story, New York 208 From the Heart of West Berlin Amorph Black, Berlin 210 Confessional and Padded Cell Stoffsüchtig, Hamburg 212 A Question of Passion Maximilian, Bozen 214 New Double Act in Vienna Arnold’s & Paarladen, Vienna

188

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Standards 008 Editorial 018 Right Now 064 Want it! 216 Editor’s Letter/Imprint


GERMANY: Matthias Schwarte Textilagentur +49 (0)89 3580576 • SWITZERLAND: Cagol Fashion Company +41 (0)43 9608888 • AUSTRIA: Gunther Grebe Modeagentur +43 (0)699 11340535 • YOUNG COLLECTION: Germany, Switzerland and Austria - Grimmer & Sommacal Diffusion +49 (0)89 8563820


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Der berg ruft!

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Messetermine: 15. - 17.01.2013 PREMIUM Berlin Halle 3 Stand H3-E 13

03. - 06.02.2013 Ispo M端nchen Halle B1, Stand 322

01. - 03.03.2013 Tracht&Country Salzburg Halle 4, Stand 718


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this is how we work ...

have a greaT 2013!

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018

RIGHT NOW Diesel+Edun

DENIM COLLECTION OUT OF AFRICA

Making Africa strong (from left to right): Founder of Edun U2 singer Bono and his wife Ali Hewson with Diesel mastermind Renzo Rosso.

A joint collection by Diesel and Edun will be appearing in February. The idea arose when Diesel founder, Renzo Rosso, and Edun founder, Ali Hewson, and her husband, U2 singer Bono, travelled to Africa together in January 2012 to visit Diesel's Only The Brave Foundation Project in Dioro, Mali and Edun's Conservation Cotton Initiative (CCI) in Uganda. The collection from Ugandan cotton is completely sourced and produced in Africa. The aim is to continually support development of the African textile industry. Renzo Rosso: "We bundled the expertise of Edun's experience in Africa with Diesel's know-how and coverage in order to create something that has never been done before: To produce denim in Africa that is to be delivered to the entire world. This project should show consumers and the industry that is truly possible to generate a future-oriented business in Africa." www.diesel.com/diesel+edun

The FTC SeaCell® Cashmere will be showcased for the first time at the Bread & Butter in Berlin from 15th to 17th January 2013 in Hangar 5, Stand 21.1 and is launched onto the market in seven colours and nine colour combinations.

FTC

Se(a)e Even More Comfort New York City follows in Los Angeles' footsteps: Closed opened its second branch in the US.

Closed

A Global Sense of Home

In the direct vicinity of Levi's and the Fashion Institute FIT, Closed set up camp in New York City last September and opened a showroom and press office between 7th and 8th Avenue. With its second branch in the US, along with its activities in Asia, the Hamburg denim label wants to give a clear signal that underscores its success in the premium segment. It is essential to develop a global understanding for the language of the brand. It is clear from the way the showroom is furnished that they are still attached to their homeland: The markedly simple furniture was shipped from their German homeland. While the presentation of the jeans collection in the Closed Denim Bar in Los Angeles at the end of August was very well received, similarly euphoric feedback is now expected on the East Coast too. www.closed.com

113 style in progress

Take: Fresh brown algae from the cool waters of the Icelandic fjords, dry and pulverise them and mix the powder with a cellulose mass and then spin this into a fibre. This is how the SmartFiber company patented the SeaCell® fibre. After one-and-a-half years of research into an entirely unique combination of SeaCell® and cashmere, Jutta and Andreas Knezovic, who for ten years have been setting new standards in the cashmere world with Fair Trade Cashmere (FTC), have mixed a vegetable and animal fibre together. “We wanted to present an additional product that would clearly set us apart from other cashmere manufacturers”, explains Andreas Knezovic who is proud of having secured exclusive rights to the process a very long time ago. A new collection has emerged which contains wellness trousers, sweaters, jackets and tops and has been christened FTC SeaCell Cashmere (prices: from 199 euros to 399 euros). The dedicated entrepreneurs gave themselves a present for the company’s 10year anniversary as well as a gift to customers - “the wellness cashmere”. “SeaCell® Cashmere isn’t aimed at any specific type, it’s for everybody who is aware of how special this product is. SeaCell® Cashmere provides additional feel-good features with added protection for the skin.” Because: Algae are rich in minerals, proteins, trace elements and vitamins. When wearing the refined cashmere, algae properties are constantly delivered to the skin through the active climate exchange between skin and fibres. This effect only diminishes after 80 wash cycles. Knezovic’s choice of SeaCell® has another background: The algae is consciously only harvested from above its growth zone, allowing it to regrow and this was a important factor for the businessman who’s well-known for his commitment towards sustainability. They are completely untreated and retain their biological value. www.ftc-cashmere.com


020 RIGHT NOW

Guess

Old Age, New Thoughts

Autumn has been all about big decisions at Guess. In October, a new flagship store was opened in Theatinerstrasse 12 in Munich, at the very centre of the Fünf Höfen. A further milestone in the retail expansion strategy of Guess in Germany. Plans to open eight more new stores in Germany and Austria are already in the pipeline for the coming year. The brand marked the opening of the Munich store in combination with the success of its exclusive capsule collection by throwing a launch party on the 15th November with DJ and producer Tiësto. Paul Marciano, CEO and Creative Director GUESS curated this collaboration, which was launched in October in the form of a limited menswear and womenswear collection. At the same time, Guess Management announced extensive changes to the management team, including the appointment of Gilles Bariguian as the new Managing Director for Europe, the Middle East and Africa. Michael Prince, previously COO, Dennis Secor, previously Senior Vice President and CFO left the company at the end of the year. Nigel Kershaw is the interim CFO. www.guess.com

Replay Social Denim

Pocket Communication

"Social Denim" was launched in the summer of last year - in December 2012, it celebrated its first "interactive" jeans première in retail. The idea works like this: A small device fitted inside the vinyl watch pocket of the jeans connects to a social network device at the click of a button, informing the wearer's friends exactly where he is so they can meet up for a night on the town. Or he can select an icon to show his current mood. A meeting of direct and electronic communication. Replay Social Denim is available for men and women in blue and black denim, both in two different fits and different washes. The models have a retail price between 149 and 189 euros, available at key accounts and in own stores. A broad-based digital campaign on the social network sites accompanied market launch. www.replay.it

Guess opened a flagship store in the Fünf Höfen close to Munich's Marienplatz.

Roy Roger’s

Bespoke Jeans Service

Founded as a denim label in 1949, Roy Roger's has initiated its new retail strategy by launching a mono-brand store in Florence. According to Niccolo Biondi, CEO of the parent group Manifatture 7 bell, the decision is a "natural step in strengthening the brand whose product categories are evolving towards a total look." Since November 2012, the capsule and cruise collections together with accessories have been presented beside the existing main lines in the retail area covering 120 square metres. The spearhead of the concept is a newly-created service: "Customers can put together their own customised jeans from a wide selection of fabrics, different threads, studs and buttons", says Guido Biondi, Creative Director of Manifatture 7 bell. Additional stores are in the pipeline for Milan and Rome, as well as outside Italy in France, England and the United States. www.royrogers.it With immediate effect, Roy Roger's is presenting its complete collection in Florence.

113 style in progress


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022 RIGHT NOW

Superdry

Two Brits, One Shoe

The traditional English shoe house of Joseph Cheaney & Sons headquartered in Northamptonshire, the tradition-steeped epicentre of English shoe manufacturers, has partnered with the Superdry brand to design a classic shoe collection. The line consisted of three classic models with a modern twist such as the brogue shoe, brogue boot and the Chelsea boot, each pair sporting Goodyear welted soles. The capsule collection was exclusively available from the Superdry store in Regent Street in London and from the online store. The Superdry team were positively surprised by the unexpectedly fast sales of the models, so much so that even though they are not planning on continuing the cooperation they are actively thinking of anchoring the Future Classics theme into the shoe collections more firmly in future. So far, the Superdry shoe collections have a significantly lower status than the clothing collection and a correspondingly lower volume, which should balance out somewhat in the future. www.superdry.com

Superdry and Cheaney & Sons had little in common, apart from their homeland - England. And, since 2012, a shoe collection.

Tenue de Nîmes

Women to the Left, Men to the Right

Menno van Meurs and Rene Strolenberg are already listed in the Valhalla of international denim reference addresses with their store Tenue de Nîmes in Amsterdam. Last October, they opened a second store in Amsterdam's Haarlemmerstraat. The new 300 square metre Tenue de Nîmes is similar in content and style and divided into four areas for men, women, denim and a special double RL Ralph Lauren shop corner. Two seemingly separate entrances to the store clearly indicate from the outside the division of the different style worlds. Interior design was conducted by the owners in conjunction with the architect Pim van Lingen, interior designer Jacob Roeland and art director Joachim Baan. The heart and soul of the store is the elaborately staged Denim Wall, made from old wooden beams dating from the 19th century. www. tenuedenimes.com

Presenting a collection on an iPad promises great technical progress.

Order Book

Bye Bye Excel

No expensive and sometimes incomplete sample collections anymore, no limited presentation options anymore, no excel spreadsheet charm anymore. The OrderBook presents a digital alternative to traditional showroom or tradeshow orders. In practice, the programme works like a kind of virtual showroom. Using an iPad, 360° views and 3D effects of entire collections can be seen and thanks to its high resolution look very similar to a real sample. There are additional functions such as the option of direct order by signature on the iPad and calling up clear, visual warehouse information. The Smart View 360 AG based in Hamburg, is behind OrderBook and includes Lyle & Scott and Aquascutum as well as Gardeur as its reference customers. www.smartview360.com

113 style in progress

The new Tenue de Nîmes Store in Amsterdam already separates "Mesdames" and "Messieurs" at the front doors.


milano - via santo spirito, 22


024 RIGHT NOW

Red Wing Shoes

A New Model with a Wool-Felt Lining This season, Red Wing Shoes is including a new 6 inch round-toe model made of soft, salt-resistant and waterrepellent ottertail leather in its collection. The leg of the ice cutter boot is lined with natural wool-felt, which is manufactured in the US. The breathable wool-felt sole can be removed and washed. Another highlight is the black Vibram TC-4 Plus Profile Sole which promises the best traction on snow and ice. The boot for cold winter days is available in black (2930) and maple red (2931). In addition, for autumn/winter 13/14, there are about 15 other new styles, like e.g. the classic 875 and 877 made of new Oro Legacy leather, the Chelsea Rancher boot also made, for the first time, of Hawthorne Muleskinner leather or the Brogue Ranger made of Velva Retan leather in the new colour option, light brown. www.redwingheritage.eu

C.P. Company

New Peaks for Design Team

In February 2010, the Italian fashion label C.P. Company was taken over by Enzo Fuscos Industry SpA in Padova and now its creative team has been further boosted by two experienced designers: Alexander Pungetti, who previously worked as a designer for the C.P. Company, and Paul Harvey, who was previously responsible for design at Stone Island. The two designers' main task is to further promote the international focus of the collection. In 2012, nearly 70 per cent of the label's turnover - totalling around 15 million euros - was generated abroad. www.cpcompany.com

A new addition: the Ice Cutter made of ottertail leather.

Stetson Europe

100th Anniversary

Happy Birthday: Stetson congratulates FWS GmbH on its 100th birthday with an anniversary collection.

113 style in progress

This year, Stetson, the headgear specialists, will be celebrating a 100 years of the Friedrich W. Schneider GmbH & Co. KG founded in 1913. To mark the occasion, Stetson Europe has designed an anniversary collection under the motto of "A Century of Headwear". Fedoras and caps will be trimmed using genuine leather instead of the cross-grained ribbon and elaborately lined with all the different versions of Stetson crests spanning the last century. The collections will be divided into four eras: Widebrimmed hats made from rabbit hair, with high crowns and broad band trims as well as multi-panelled Newsboy Caps have been inspired by the spirit of the '20s and '30s. The '50s style will have Baker Boy caps, slim pilots and flat caps made of wool partly with leather peaks, complemented by Trucker Caps in raw woollen materials and plaids in original "American fabrics" as well as larger Worker Styles and Driver Caps in tweed checks and herringbone. The '60s and '70s will be represented by small trilbies made of felt or fabric and large floppy hats with colourful or geometric designs. The fourth era brings shrunk wool combined with polyurethane-coated cotton into flat caps, trilbies and 5-panel caps. The pieces in the anniversary line will be elaborately made by hand in Germany or Europe and start with a retail price of 89 euros and be showcased with the Classic Collection at the Bread & Butter. www.stetson-europe.com


026 RIGHT NOW

Antony Morato

270 Per Cent Growth

Even if Amsterdam heads the alphabet, launch of the new Liebeskind store in the Dutch capital only came about after Graz, Paris and New York.

The Italian menswear label Antony Morato is continuing its strategy for international expansion and this year has plans in the pipeline for more new stores to open in London, Berlin and Munich. The Antony Morato Deutschland GmbH with headquarters in Munich was founded in 2011 and is increasingly focusing on the German market where, in 2012 alone, growth reached 270 per cent - whilst total growth of the label from 2012 with its first figures of 4 per cent didn’t reach a two-figure number. Before these three new stores, Antony Morato already had 40 stand-alone flagship stores and around 3,000 customers in more than 50 countries. Yearly turnover for 2012 was estimated at 80 million euros in the autumn. One of the biggest goals the team surrounding the three young label founders and the Raffaele siblings, Giovanni and Tania Caldarelli and Managing Director Manlio Massa has set themselves for the current year, is to adapt the corporate structure to meet the rapid growth of the label. The label took a further step towards internationalisation through their store offensive in 2012 with new stores in Tripoli, Hilversum, Amsterdam, Porto, Valencia, Madrid and Paris as well as entering the market at the same time in the Philippines, in Panama, Uzbekistan and Russia. Regarding its home country of Italy, Manlio Massa aims to restructure distribution in order to remain suitably positioned in its so far strongest Antony Morato market (42 per cent of the company’s turnover). This year, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia and Montenegro are also to be added. www.morato.it

The Italian menswear label Antony Morato is conquering the international market in record time. Now, it’s time for healthy growth.

Liebeskind Berlin

From A to Z

A touch of Berlin has also been blowing through Amsterdam and Zürich since November 2012: Liebeskind Berlin is continuing its triumphant rise with two new locations in European capitals. With the recent addition of Graz, not only was another letter added to the alphabet but this also signalled the launch of the fourth mono-label store in Austria. Following an additional branch in Paris in the spring of 2012, the Berlin accessories and fashion label ventured into the US market in the August. The store opened in the trendy Soho district of New York and with its 100 square metre retail area, is a lot more spacious than the European newcomers. While bags, leather accessories and womenswear are to be showcased over 90 square metres in Zürich, Amsterdam will have about 70. Graz and Paris have been allocated a smaller floor with 40 square metres each. www.liebeskind-berlin.com

Canada Goose is one hundred per cent produced in Canada, “the cold here is part of our identity”, is the company’s philosophy.

Canada Goose

Strategy of Superlatives

The outdoor specialist Canada Goose was founded in 1957 and makes jackets, coats, gilets and accessories to keep women, men and children warm in the coldest places on earth. They use the most lightweight down and have the coolest “Goose People” who trial their gear around the globe in extreme weather conditions. The “Snow Mantra” model is - according to their own claims - the warmest jacket in the world. So it’s no little wonder that CEO Dani Reiss, Canada’s “Entrepreneur of the Year 2010” who runs the family-owned business in its third-generation, also only looked for the best Sales Director for Germany and Austria. And finally found him - the candidates were brought back to the company headquarters in Toronto just like a casting - in the person of Christian Stoll, ex-Puma manager for Sailing/Outdoor who is presenting the label in a new showroom in Munich’s Lodenfrey-Park. Other areas of Europe are also being painstakingly restaffed by the fastest growing company in Canada, agencies and partners had to undergo a thorough selection process. Meanwhile, Canada Goose is now available in more than 40 countries worldwide. Examples of retail prices: Jackets and parkas from €625 to €1,900, accessories from €50 to €325. www.canada-goose.com

113 style in progress


FINE ITALIAN JACKETS SINCE 1936 MABRUN.IT


028 RIGHT NOW

Floris van Bommel

Manufacture Close-Up

In November 2012, the Dutch shoe manufacturer van Bommel opened the newly-designed headquarters in the Dutch town of Moergestel. The foundations were laid back in the '50s and the area of more than 6,000 square metres now houses the design department, offices, warehouse and production. The company still produces around 35 per cent of its collection on site, the remainder is made in Portugal. Reason enough to celebrate the re-opening properly: From spring 2013, consumers will be able to visit the company and take a professional factory tour that will demonstrate how the shoes are manufactured close-up. Insights into the history of the shoe dynasty domiciled in Moergestel since 1835 and spanning nine generations can be found in the company museum . The company looks back over nearly 300-years of history and today is run by the Reynier brothers, Floris and Pepijn. They are also responsible for the new design of the company headquarters. www.florisvanbommel.com, www.vanbommel.com New light shines on the past: the redesigned company headquarters of van Bommel.

Centraal Museum Utrecht

350 years of Blue Jeans

Individual appointments can also be booked via the Mountain Force service hotline.

Centraal Museum in Utrecht is currently presenting the Blue Jeans exhibition: 350 years of indigo history. Blue Jeans shows the experimental and creative side of denim through the ages: from workwear in the 17th century, to modern lifestyle garments and high fashion articles. Special attention is reserved for the role of denim in (inter)national subcultures. The highly polluting production processes and sustainable alternatives, such as ‘zero water waste’, are also part of the exhibition. The time line presents iconic garments - including old Levi’s and Lee jeans – as well as high fashion denims by Chanel, Maison Martin Margiela, Marithé + François Girbaud and Yves Saint Laurent. Exclusive Japanese and Italian denims are represented by a.o. Momotaro, Atelier Tossijn and Rapha. http://centraalmuseum.nl/

Mountain Force

Bespoke Ski Trousers

The high demands placed on ski trousers are further multiplied by the desire for a perfect fit. Until now, options open to sports enthusiasts were limited. “Thanks to Mountain Force, this will no longer be a problem this winter and I’m very proud to be able to say so. We are the first to bring bespoke ski trousers into our programme because, for skiers, finding perfect fitting trousers has always been extremely difficult”, says Roman Stepek, CEO Mountain Force. The specialists for Swiss premium ski clothing used the professional sports field as a model to develop their own special service which will also offer custom-made ski trousers to the leisure sports sector. The idea was first introduced for the 2012/13 autumn/winter season in the form of special events taking place at selected premium retailers such as Reyer in Hallein or Ertl/ Renz in Munich. At the events, customers could have measurements taken by the Mountain Force tailors. These measurements were then sent to KTC, wellknown manufacturers of high-performance wear, where a small, trained team were standing by to carry out the bespoke tailoring. The article was delivered six weeks later. Prices for the models start at 800 euros. Roman Stepek announced that the bespoke service will be expanded in the future. www.mountainforce.com

113 style in progress

Iconic pieces, rough utility wear, high fashion denims...it goes without saying that Blue Jeans is a must-see for every denim lover.


Katharina von Garzuly-hohenlohe www.habsburG.co.at


030 RIGHT NOW

IQ+ Berlin

Deluxe Distribution

More Women‘s Expertise with Minimum

Icy Pastels and Coyote

To further promote the success of the Minimum collection, the Danish label who are represented by Berlin's Agentur Deluxe Distribution in Germany and Austria, are focusing on realigning and expanding their women's collection. "Through this, we are following the wishes of the trade and exactly hitting the mark with our top houses and online senders", says Ilya Morgen of Deluxe Distribution. The share of the women's collection has been increased to 35 % and expanded by 130 items made from premium materials and with attractive pricing. In terms of the new direction of design and cutting techniques and in addition to the essential basic silhouette, focus is on commercial block colours as well as picking up on important trends such as neon and camouflage. The new direction is also reflected in a bigger booth at the Bread & Butter and a new position in the Urban Fashion Hall 1. Labels: Eucalyptus/Friday on my Mind, Minimum, Moods of Norway, Skunkfunk, United Nude Deluxe Distribution, Berlin/Germany, www.deluxe-distribution.de

In the current trade fair season, the German specialist for indoor and outdoor jackets IQ+ Berlin is appearing for the first time at the Premium in Berlin, but also at the Tranoi Preview in Paris and the Vision in Copenhagen so as to move further along the path towards international expansion. At a product level, IQ+ Berlin stays true to its line and, with its first line, primarily relies upon its expertise in the areas of design and fit. The collection, which concentrates on 65 to 70 pieces for autumn/winter 2013, presents highlights like a light down wool parka with a hood made of coyote fur, a biker vest made of layered polished leather or Raglan parkas in a colour palette featuring icy pastels. However light, down-nylon jackets in new colours are also in the product range for delivery in June. www.iqfashion.de

Casually-cut parkas with coyote fur are among the new additions at IQ+ Berlin.

The Minimum women's collection is being relaunched.

Handstich

Round

3

With the sale of its autumn/winter 2013/14 collection, the Handstich brand is already entering its third season. The publicly accessible part of the homepage has also had new images from the spring/summer 2013 campaign added to it for the occasion. The imagery, just like the collection, is a commitment to Handstich’s expertise in the area of artisan production and to the place between progressive design and reliability, where the brand positions itself. The sales team has also seen growth. In Germany, two new agencies have recently been added, and together with Austria, Switzerland and the Benelux states, an agency in Eastern Europe has also signed up. Justin Beachus, as sales manager, is responsible for sales and distribution. In addition, Handstich will present its autumn/winter 2013 collection at its own stand at the Premium in Berlin for the first time. www.handstich.de

113 style in progress

Handstich’s autumn/winter collection uses artisanal tributes in a modern way.


032 RIGHT NOW

Schott NYC

10 by 10 is 100

Schott NYC celebrates its 100th anniversary this year. The family business, now being run by its third and fourth generation, used this anniversary as an opportunity to be represented by two stands at the Bread & Butter, one in Hall 2 and one in the L.O.C.K. Area in Hangar 7. One stand is dedicated to the special edition Schott NYC 100 series, which presents reinterpreted jacket classics from the firm’s own history. At the centre of this are six historical models in new colours, including the Schott NYC’s trademark, the Perfecto leather jacket. They became a cult item thanks to its wearers, the likes of James Dean and Marlon Brando. The second stand presents the brand’s cooperation with the French brand American College, entitled Schott x American College. The capsule collection displays 18 new colour variations of the model MA1, nylon pilot jackets for men and women. Schott NYC is also celebrating the appearance of the book “100 Years of an American Original” at the Bread & Butter,” which vividly describes the history of the brand. www.schott-bros.com

Schott NYC is the creator of the cult Perfecto biker jacket, which has accompanied the business over the past 100 years.

Pantone

Language of Creativity

Creative people know Pantone as a brand for colours, whether in fashion, architecture or industrial design. Now Fashion Factory is partnering with Panorama Distribution in distributing licensed products from Pantone Fashion with T-shirts, sweaters and beachwear and Pantone cases. "There can't be a more successful combination of fashion, design, art and lifestyle", says Mark Grütters, Managing Director of Fashion Factory. "Pantone is a code, a secret language of design freaks. Transferring this into the world of fashion is a unique challenge for me." So far, there is Pantone beachwear and Pantone cases for iPhone, iMac or iPad in the MOMA New York and TATE London, for example, as well as at The Corner Berlin and Pool Munich. Distribution is now to be carefully expanded. The "World of Pantone" will be presented at the Pitti and the Bread & Butter. www.pantone.com, www.ffbymg.de

Pantone is known as a brand for creative people.

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Ludwig Beck promoted its charity campaign on Dienerstrasse in Munich using a huge poster.

Ludwig Beck

Engaging on the Streets

The quality of the service staff at Ludwig Beck in Munich is a primary concern for the board of management. So last September, the “Store of the Senses” began an unprecedented staff training campaign called the Beck Black Label Training Series 2012. Selected employees took part in a total of five workshops based on different themes. A highlight was a training unit on the bustling pedestrian zone of Munich’s Dienerstrasse. In a charity campaign, the 34 course participants sold roses to passers-by at the highest possible revenue in aid of the Munich Children’s Hospice. After just three hours, the total sum of donations reached 5,786.55 euros and was increased to 10,000 euros by Ludwig Beck. “Our employees have seen that honest engagement with people is very challenging and is the foundation for good contact with customers. Only then can expertise in the field of sales dialogue have effect,” explained the director of the staff division, Pedram Taghizadeh. The campaign was also advertised using huge posters entitled “We bloom for you.” www.ludwigbeck.de


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G-LAB

Further North

Björn Gericke has set himself the goal of driving G-LAB's international expansion. "Our successes in the Canadian market, for example, which is our strongest market, even before Germany, have shown us how important international presence is for G-LAB. Therefore, this season, we will begin cooperating with the importer RedFox from St. Petersburg, and our first step will be to exhibit at the CPM in Moscow at the end of February. We have also found a suitable partner in Norway in the form of Brand-Box in Oslo, whose co-owner is the former CEO of J. Lindeberg," explains Björn Gericke. In addition, we have also found a strong partner for the Swiss market in the BollagGuggenheim Fashion Group in Zurich. The success story from Canada, where G-LAB is already serving over 40 retail locations only two years after entering the market, was proof for him of how important cooperation with professional and committed partners on site is. Thus, along with Canada, the US, Switzerland, Austria, Germany and Denmark, G-LAB will also be represented in Norway and Russia in the future. One of the next projects is to appoint an importer for the Benelux countries and England in the near future. www.g-lab.com

G-Lab is entering unchartered territory with its new collection for autumn/winter 2013/14.

Converse

Weatherproof

Not just a summer shoe - at colder times of the year too, Converse has a host of options in its line for the coming season. New to the premium segment is the JP Duck Boot, a weatherproof high-top with concise seams and pull tabs. The models from the "Wheaterized" series are based on famous silhouettes that are made winterproof with materials like washed leather or suede, felt, tweed, wool or patchwork. Winter and shearling boots with warm Thinsulate lining underscore the shoe's functionality. The Jack Purcell series presents itself in a sophisticated way with its rubber cap in brushed leather, in a canvas or camouflage model. As a source of inspiration for the line, John Varvatos introduces premium leather qualities, snake skin styles and elaborate stud and zipper details. www.converse.com

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Parajumpers are bringing a small exclusive series of new fleece and knitted jackets onto the market in autumn 2013/14.

Parajumpers

Expanding knitwear and fleece

Parajumpers designer Massimo Rossetti is a perfectionist - and not just in terms of the high-quality jackets of the premium sportswear label from Italy. This great attention to detail is also highlighted in the new fleece and knitwear project. The small, fine series of functional, knitted jumpers lined with nylon and fleece jackets with removable fur hoods uses popular materials such as wool, heavy jersey and nylon. This combination is what makes the product so current. The comfortable, soft tops have a hand-crafted design and are full of detailing such as special buttons, hooks and linings. Prices for the exclusive series for men and women range between 70 and 130 euros wholesale. The collection will be showcased for the first time at the Pitti tradeshow in Florence, then at the Premium in Berlin as well as at the showrooms of the distribution agency Schwarte . The same thing goes for the new high-end premium series “Upper Class”. The highly-functional jackets were specially developed for extreme climatic conditions and winter sport activities and are designed in a restrained, clean manner which is still perfectly suitable for the city too. The super-light, inner down jacket for men is removable, the functional outer jacket is windproof and waterproof. www.parajumpers.it


BREAD & BUTTER. 15TH – 17TH JANUARY 2013. AREA: AIR FIELD . BOOTH No. A22


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Firma Brand Loyalty In January, Carl Tillessen and Daniela Biesenbach, owners of the design label Firma Berlin, opened a second Berlin store in Charlottenburg, in Bleibtreustrasse 13. "Many of our customers live close to Savignyplatz and rarely come to Berlin Mitte", says Tillessen. "We were on the lookout for a location for a long time and we've found one right here that is in keeping with our style." The shop stands almost completely by itself and has the classic, modern character of a pavilion. The interior was designed by the architect Maria Tillessen in the typical, Firma style only concentrating on the essentials. "It's important to us to have our own shops in order to show how much potential is in our brand", says Daniela Biesenbach, "Everybody who visits one of our own stores will have a much closer tie with the brand than they had before." www.firma.net

Marlino

New Rhythm, New Distribution

The collection by Etiqueta Negra has been newly represented by the Hinterhofagentur since December.

Etiqueta Negra

Promising Restart

The Munich Hinterhofagentur has already started cooperation with the Etiqueta Negra label for the coming buying season for Germany and Austria. This particular challenge for agency owner Dominik Meuer was mainly in newly placing the label and winning back customer trust again. The brand was only recently represented for a short period on the German market and had a few teething problems at the onset. This in turn made sales difficult. The Hinterhofagentur now wants to rectify this bad start. "The Indas S.r.l. company has presented us with an ambitious and persuasive investment plan", says Dominik Meuer. The focus is to be on communication of the brand, investment in the product and customer service. Besides a new showroom in Munich there will also soon be an own store in the Bavarian capital. Communication of the brand lies in the capable hands of Think Inc.. Print ad campaigns are planned, which will mainly highlight the origins and core competencies of the brand in the field of polo sports and the historic motor racing world. In line with this, Etiqueta Negra is also presenting a capsule collection as a homage to the racing legend Tazio Nuvolari. This will be showcased at the Premium in Berlin together with the main collection in a 60 square metre booth. www.etiquetanegra.eu

Rustic, masculine parkas are the highlights of the autumn/winter collection by Marlino.

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Until now only in Berlin Mitte, now also in Berlin Charlottenburg: the second Firma store in the city.

The jacket brand Marlino‘s product portfolio was originally set-up as a unisex range of jackets. For the autumn/winter collection 2013/14, this has for the first time been divided into a women‘s and a men‘s collection. The main differences between the women‘s and men‘s models principally lie in their silhouettes and the cut but also in the materials and skins used. For women this also includes figure-hugging blazers, light down jackets and lambskin coats, for men the focus is on rustic, masculine parkas and anoraks. Delivery is organised according to demand with two delivery dates, the first at the beginning of July for the between-seasons jackets and autumn models and the second in August for the winter parkas and anoraks. A small stock programme for shortterm re-order options is also new and there are new distribution partners, in Germany (Connect & Cares, Marion Hoferer, Munich and Düsseldorf), Austria (Clothing Concept, Erwin Kronawettleitner, Salzburg) and Switzerland (Beckers GmbH, Stefanie Beckers, Glattbrugg). So, Marlino is supplementing its international network that also has distribution partners in Norway, Sweden and Holland. This January, the brand will be showcasing at the Premium in Berlin at the Marion Hoferer booth. www.marlino.de


www.deyk.com


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Modeagentur Holas

Agentur Schwarte

Family business

Heel, Toe, Swing the Leg

“We believe in relatively top-quality, off-beat products with a high degree of fashion and are extremely pleased that our manufacturers are going along with us on this”, says Matthias Schwarte. The conceptual orientation of his agency will be gearing itself towards an even higher degree of fashion in the coming season with two new additions, Felted and Myths. “Myths introduces a very special trouser collection, completing our repertoire of top fashion products.” Agentur Schwarte is handling the German-speaking market for the first time for the jacket collection by Felted, which is very well positioned internationally with reference customers such as United Arrows in Tokyo or Raspini in Florence. Logistics and handling are guaranteed to run smoothly thanks to the close cooperation with Ape & Partners, co-owners of Felted along with the Parajumpers brand since 2011. The Parajumpers collection has also grown massively, particularly in knitwear and sweats, extending with a line of tops. “This has also strengthened the brand’s fashion statement.” Labels: Armani Jeans, Alp-n-Rock, Annalisa Bucci Cashmere, Benson N.Y., Felted, Hell is for Heroes, Kieselstein Cord, Myths, Parajumpers, Sundek, Sundek by Neil Barrett, Vintage 55 Agentur Schwarte, Matthias Schwarte, Munich/Germany, www.agentur-schwarte.de

Agency owner, Markus Holas, announced his son Martin Holas was entering the agency in the autumn. Martin Holas will be responsible for the Austrian market with the newcomers to the portfolio, Codello. New additions beside Codello are the women’s collection from Soccx and the Camp David label. The agency will be further expanding its strategic focus on the Austrian and South-East European markets (Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Macedonia, Montenegro). The collections will therefore also be shown in a 320 square metre showroom in the Hoto-Centar of Zagreb. In line with the expansion plans, father and son have also expanded the Salzburg showroom in the M1 (opposite the Fashion Mall) from 1,200 square metres to 1,500 square metres so that in future all the agency’s labels can be shown under one roof, from ground floor to the fourth floor. The agency has also taken a new decision to hand Visual Merchandising of all brands and franchise partners to specialised service providers in future. Peter Jakob joined the team on 1st November 2012 as a new sales manager and expansion representative for retail space partnerships and partnership stores. Labels: Baldessarini, Camp David, Codello, Creenstone, Eterna, Gaastra, Guess by Marciano, Mexx, Pierre Cardin, Ragman, Soccx, Stones Modeagentur Holas, Salzburg and Vienna/Austria; Strmec Samoborski/Croatia, www.holas.net

The fashionable trousers collection Myths is new to Agentur Schwarte.

Hoferer

Just like 1,001 Nights

Martin Holas will be pressing ahead with the expansion of the agency together with his father Markus Holas.

Every season, Agentur Hoferer keeps new and tried-and-tested products at hand for their customers. These include brands such as Blaumax and Zoe Karssen, great for T-shirts with cheeky slogans. B.Belt captivates with belts and bracelets, handmade in Germany, from soft, buttery leather with studs and Swarovski stones Marion Hoferer is still Managing Director of the Agentur Hoferer and has also set up her own agency independently under the name of Agentur Marion Hoferer Connect & Cares for the current season. "In doing this, small fashionable themes that allow retailers to play around with them and can turn his shop into a brand, are important to me", says Marion Hoferer. She also places value on service and quick, flexible responses. A new addition to her programme is furniture covered with oriental carpets enabling retailers to freshen up their interior design and are available within a few weeks in a variety of different colours. Also new are B.Belt bags with a canvas shopper for example and soft leather belts decorated with copper and rosé-gold studs, wholesale from 169 euros. Also in the programme: the Montgomery label with gloves, leather jackets for indoors and outdoors and seasonal must-haves along with upmarket parkas from Marlino for men and women at around 1.200 euros/retail. Labels: Blaumax, B.Belt, Liebeskind Limited, SassiCara, Zoe Karssen Agentur Hoferer GmbH, Munich/Germany, www.modeist.com Labels: B.Belt Bags, Marlino, Montgomery Agentur Marion Hoferer Connects & Cares, Munich/Germany und Düsseldorf/Germany, www.modeist.com Trendy carpeted furniture from the Agentur Hoferer programme.

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Welcome to my room with a view

“Sustainable Luxury Is Our Motto”

This season, the agency room with a view is rationalising and focusing on very select brands, to which they want to dedicate the appropriate space and time to allow them to develop. The agency has made itself a little smaller and more focused. “Out of the 19 brands in our portfolio, only three produce in China and all but one are family owned. Our credo is, in future, to only work with brands where we can identify with what they stand for, how they implement these values, those behind the brand and where they come from,” explains Christian Obojes, owner of room with a view. In accordance with this, the only newcomer is the brand Canada Goose, which Christian Obojes and his team want to place in the premium sportswear segment. “Initial feedback from our new clients is incredibly good. The brand has very positive associations and high levels of recognition.” Labels Austria: 7 for all mankind, AI Riders on the Storm, Aglini, Bleulab, Canada Goose, Hunting, George Gina & Lucy, Giorgio Brato, HTC, My T-Shirt, New Balance, Peuterey, Pomandére, Swiss Chriss, Szen, T-Kees, Tyoulip Sisters, Warm-ME, Zoe Karssen; Labels Switzerland: 7 for all mankind, add, AI Riders on the Storm, Aglini, Bleulab, Drakewood, George, Gina & Lucy, Giorgio Brato, Gwynedds, HTC, Pence, Pomandére, Swiss Chriss, Szen, Tyoulip Sisters, Warm-ME, Zoe Karssen. Welcome to my room with a view, Salzburg/Austria, Zürich/Switzerland, office@roomwithaview.at, www.roomwithaview.at

Canada Goose is the promising newcomer of the room with a view agency.

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Agentur Best of 19

The Pleasant Things in Life

"We are very attached to our customer service, we have fantastic brands and actively work with our customers", says Gabriele Frantzen from the Best of 19 agency. Focus is on four particular brands, including Utzon, made in Scandinavia with a strong programme of leather and fur, which appeals to customers such as Eickhoff and Apropos. Market represent T-shirts from San Francisco, ranging from basics to extraordinary volume shirts made in USA, now with new prints. Gabriele Frantzen has had an own-name jewellery line since 2009. This has been well received by Harvey Nichols or Saks on 5th Avenue, for example, where the name and jewellery have been adorning a Christmas display window since November. Necklaces with small watch elements and flower cameos are also new, as well as Carrée scarves with photo prints. Best of 19 Accessories also include retail gimmicks such as fun bracelets and practical bag-inbags for keeping shoes in, for example. Labels: Best of 19 Accessories, Gabriele Frantzen, Market, Utzon Best of 19 GmbH, Munich/Germany, www.bestof19.com, www.gabriele-frantzen.com

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The outerwear collection of Pajar, the Canadian Outdoor specialists: new at CP Fashion.

New Performance Fashion

Classy in leather: The Utzon label by agency Best of 19.

For the new year, CP Fashion from Bad Säckingen states that concentration rather than expansion is the way to go. “We are concentrating on core segments of our agency. This includes established brands such as 1921 Jeans, Silver Jeans Co., Michael Stars or Robin’s amongst others”, says Eric Oberstein. The Pajar label from Montreal/Canada is an additional newcomer. The jacket collection by Pajar combines the functional aspects and fashionable influences within the diverse performance fashion line for men and women and is a further specialist in CP Fashion’s field that will be incorporated into the portfolio. All jackets are water-repellent and have a fill-power of 675 goose down. At the same time, the agency is also realigning its contextual focus towards Performance and Outdoor. Labels: 1921, Blood & Glitter, Jaggy, Joe’s Jeans, Michael Stars, Notify, Pajar, Rising Sun, Robin’s Jeans, Silver Jeans Co., Yummie CP FASHION, Bad Säckingen, Düsseldorf, Munich/Germany, www.cpfashion.de


ACO MODEAGENTUR INFO@ACOMODE.DE TEL +49 211 542 563 0

PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO CENTRAL PAVILLION, GROUNDFLOOR, STAND A1


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d-tails coppolecchia-reinartz GmbH

Three Italian Newcomers

The Munich agency d-tails coppolecchia-reinartz GmbH is expanding its brand portfolio for the order season autumn/winter 2013/2014. The Italian label Hache, which was founded in 1995, brings a naturally feminine collection to the ladies outerwear product range, which is characterised by the use of flowing materials and geometric patterns, as well as unusual silhouettes. A special feature is the fact that all Hache pieces and accessories are “made and designed in Italy.” Just like the bags by the second newcomer, O Bag by Fullspot. A basic body, which comes in 20 different colours and, thanks to its changeable handle design and inside lining, can be personalised on demand. The third newcomer is the Venetian It label Memento, which made its way into selected fashion stores with its cult product “Me in a glass” – handmade glasses in a futuristic design – and which will top off the portfolio of d-tails coppolecchiareinartz GmbH in the coming season. Labels: Duvetica, Hache, Happiness is a 10$ Tee, Memento, O Bag, Serafini, Siviglia, Pollini by Nicholas Kirkwood d-tails coppolecchia-reinartz GmbH, Munich/Germany, www.d-tails.de

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One of the newcomers that are “designed and made in Italy”: Hache.

With Menil, Panorama is reinterpreting classic jacket models with an innovative new design.

Panorama Distribution / Fashion Factory, Düsseldorf

"We bring colour into the game"

Felix Staeudinger, owner of Panorama Distribution, sees the comeback of the classic dufflecoat and quilted traditional-style jacket with a new contemporary twist and a variety of different colours as one of the key elements for the 2013/14 autumn/winter season. And there is plenty of potential for innovations, for example, as a quilted blazer in 16 different colour combinations by Menil. Colours to die for is also the motto for the Espadrij l’Originale and Rivieras shoe collections. They are offering a special programme for new clients for the spring/summer season with an immediate package of five to seven models in up to six different colours. The wide range of colours continues into the Schott jacket collection. "We are celebrating a 100-year anniversary with Schott this year. We will be presenting a special limited collection in Berlin to mark the occasion with classics from the last 100 years in fresh, new colours," says Mark Grütters from Fashion Factory. Labels: Bailey of Hollywood, Espadrij l’Originale, Gudrun & Gudrun, J. Keydge, La Botte Gardiane, Menil, Nupkeet, Orcival, Rivieras, Schott NYC, TST Panorama Europe GmbH, Düsseldorf/Germany, www.panorama-distribution.eu Sales: Fashion Factory, Düsseldorf/Germany, mg@ffbymg.de, www.ffbymg.de

Moderaumfischer

Fresh start in Munich

Lars Fischer is pursuing a new agency concept with Moderaumfischer.

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At the end of October, Lars Fischer, who had until then been one of the owners of "Die Hinterhofagentur" in Munich, turned freelance with a new concept. Moving with his Moderaumfischer agency into Lodenfrey Park's Building F in January, he presents the two labels, Lucky de Luca and Fratelli Rossetti, in the 110 square metres new showroom. "The framework I have in mind should mainly be part of a sustainable development process. Lucky de Luca has written a plus of 60 per cent in the last season alone. So, it is now especially important to structure distribution and to expand selectively, while giving it one hundred per cent personal attention. I aim to to firmly anchor both labels in the retail sector," says Lars Fischer who is responsible for distribution in Germany and Austria. Lucky de Luca is planning to have its own stand in Hall 3 at the upcoming Premium tradeshow in Berlin and plans to have a temporary showroom or booth in Düsseldorf are also in the pipeline. Labels: Fratelli Rossetti, Lucky de Luca Moderaumfischer, Munich/Germany, www.moderaumfischer.de


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Agentur Treibstoff

Women in the Spotlight

Brands from the Treibstoff portfolio will be showcasing a variety of new lines at the Bread & Butter: Red Wing Shoes is launching an accessory line and the knitwear specialists from GRP are showing a women's collection for the first time. Nigel Cabourn is also presenting a first-time12 to 18-piece collection for women, too. Filson is planning a Made in USA apparel line in cooperation with Maurizio Donadi who used to be the vintage clothing mastermind at Levi's. The latest coups from Fred Bschaden are an accessory label under the name of Banditbloggers and watches from Horween horse leather. Labels: Buttero, Dukes, Fairbault Mills, Filson, Gitman Vintage, GRP, Johnson Motors, Nigel Cabourn, Red Wing Shoes Agentur Treibstoff, Munich/Germany, www.agenturtreibstoff.com

The Hinterhofagentur

Building on Good Partnerships

For the forthcoming season, the Hinterhofagentur wants to expand its existing brands even further. Handstich, the young jacket and shoe label, is extremely persuasive at the moment with successful sales figures. “Feedback from the first season in stores and also through the direct end consumer surveys has been overwhelming”, says agency owner Dominik Meuer. “The customers are rewarding the mix of materials and precise, detailed work on the jackets and shoes. The Handstich pieces are surprisingly different without being loud.” The fashionable knitting line Wool & Co are focusing on still higher quality yarns and are focusing on the diverse shapes and special treatments. The sportswear and trousers provider Modfitters have been offering a complete 5-pocket programme since the summer as well as new fits for chinos and new varieties of material. The Jey Coleman collection is continuing to focus on the “tinto in capo” dyed and softwashed jackets theme with matching trousers. Details such as AMF stitching, open buttonholes and contrasting under-collars accord the pieces with their own note. For the first time, the complete sweatshirt programme of Tortuga Academy, the surf label, is also being expanded by a line of technical fleeces for autumn/ winter. “We are really looking forward to a new, thrilling and exciting autumn/winter season 20113/14!” Labels: Handstich, Jey Coleman, Jfour, Mc Alson, Modfitters, Take A Way Clothing, Tortuga Academy, Tramarossa, Wool & Co Die Hinterhofagentur, Munich/Germany, www.diehinterhofagentur.de

Nigel Cabourn is also available for women from autumn/winter 2013/2014.

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Agentur Ventrella

Exclusively Made in Italy

With four new collections, Agentur Ventrella is underpinning the current season’s focus on “Made in Italy”. The Objet de Desir knitwear collection presents feminine and elaborately decorated cardigans with appliquéd gemstones, fur trims and appliquéd pearls (70 to 90 euros wholesale. Just as feminine and detailed are the approximately 10 pieces in the extensive fur collection by Giovi with small mink jackets and Chanel jackets made from Persian lamb in the latest winter colours. Brooches, knitted stoles and capes with fur trim and small fur accessories complement the collection (500 to 1,800 euros wholesale). The blouses by Guglielminotti from the house of Camiceria Giemme (45 to 60 euros wholesale) in pure black or white provide a radically reduced colour contrast and a predominantly black leather collection Au Revoir also complements the range (220 to 260 euros wholesale). Models range from biker styles to Chanel jackets and small modern blazer shapes, partly with appliquéd gemstones and a top-quality brocade lining. Labels: 813, Altea, Au Revoir, Avant Toi, Bark, Caliban, De’Hart, DNL, Femme, Ghold, Giovi, Guglielminotti, History Repeats, Leather Crown, Le Sarte Pettegole, London Ink, Monocrom, Monocrom Skrits, Move, Mr. & Mrs. Furs, Mr. Wolf, Objets de Desir, People, Raparo, Rue de Mathieu, Tagliatore, Tintoria Mattei, Très Chic Sartorial, Unfleur Agentur Ventrella GmbH, Munich/Germany, www.agentur-ventrella.de Studio Ventrella Düsseldorf: Düsseldorf/Germany, Agentur Ventrella‘s recipe for success is Best of Italy. For example Très Chic Sartorial.

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1000 MILE BOOT CORDOVAN NO. 8


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Reinhard Haase, agency owner at Unifa: „We are denim special­ ists, we have a lot of market experience, from which our clients also benefit.“

Unifa

The Jeans Specialists

"Denim is back. What was perhaps merely wishful thinking before, is now evident in the market," says Reinhard Haase, owner of the agancy Unifa, who bases his statement not only on sales figures at More Jades as well as his True Religion stores. "Beautiful washes, slim and straight cuts and boyfriend styles are popular once more, while the theme of colour is quietening down for autumn/winter 2013/14." The Düsseldorf agency's motto is to be more selective. In recent years, it has focused on a few high-turnover brands. These include names like Hudson, Dr. Denim, J Brand, Mother and True Religion, which is trading under the name of True Religion Brand Jeans GmbH. Reinhard Haase has opened six mono-label stores with True Religion Brand Jeans in the German-speaking market. He is increasingly counting on between collections for his retail clients. So, for example, the True Religion collection has six delivery dates and therefore provides the best conditions for new images at the PoS. Labels: Amor & Psyche, Dr. Denim, Ella Moss, Equipment, Hudson, I love my moments, J Brand, Juicy Couture, True Religion, Snowmass, Splendid, Wildfox, Wildfox Jewelry Unifa Fashion GmbH, Düsseldorf/Germany, www.unifa-fashion.com

CCT Collectionen Christian Teufl

Concentration

Agency owner Christian Teufl has streamlined his company's portfolio for the coming autumn/winter 2013/14 season. "Owing to the economic situation and the related payment difficulties of several suppliers, we have separated ourselves from some companies." They are now focusing on existing partnerships where cooperation has been particularly good. "Collections that are on point with the associated service, reliable quality and delivery, these are all essential ingredients in joint success. These also include the labels 0039 Italy, Furla and FTC Cashmere who we count as stable partners with whom we can generate a very good turnover and even increase considerably. Lauren Moshi and Michael Lauren are evolving into high-fliers in the premium shirt sector. Bikkembergs and Hunter complement our shoe segment perfectly. Hunter has expanded the collection, we are now also showing the classic rubber boot in leather, with corresponding down jackets and matching bags. Lua Accessories can show a particularly high-quality customer base through the reliable and stylish collection and can do this several times a season. 120% Lino was able to produce a successful start for the spring/summer 2013 season and is now appearing with gorgeous dresses in cashmere-linen quality for the first time. "And our young label, Witty Knitters, is successfully evolving into a total look. In cooperation with the Adventure fashion agency we have found a perfect logistics provider with good service and reliability," says Christian Teufl. New to the agency's portfolio since the autumn are the brands Cruciani bracelets & bags, Craft Jeans, The Royal Pine Club down coats and Napapjiri Accessoires for Germany and Austria. Labels: 0039 Italy, 120% Lino, Belstaff, Bikkembergs, Cruciani, Craft Jeans, Furla, FTC Cashmere, Hunter, I Blues, Lauren Moshi, Lua Accessoires, Marella, Michael Lauren, Napapijri Accessoires, Stefanel, The Royal Pine Club, Witty Knitters Agentur Teufl, Salzburg/Austria, www.teufl.cc

One of the newcomers to the Agentur Teufl's portfolio: The Royal Pine Club.

Caption In the Aco agency‘s portfolio: innovative menswear by Phil Petter.

Aco

Having the End Consumer in Mind

"In selecting its collection, Aco Austria's focus is on the end consumers," says Rudolf Kail, owner of the agency. "And because these are increasingly in the form of Eastern European, Arab and Chinese tourists, demand is also changing." Brands like Versace Collection, Just Cavalli and Trussardi Jeans each have 25 selected customers in Austria. For two seasons now, Ice Iceberg has been included in this; with a casually straight men's collection and a feminine women's line. "With these collections, Aco doesn't just cover demand in Vienna and other tourist hotspots, but it also expands directly into neighbouring countries in the East," says Rudolf Kail. The best example of this expansion is Napapijri. Within the past three years, 15 stores and about 40 corners have emerged in Austria and Eastern Europe, for which Aco is also in charge of merchandising. Last but not least is the brand Steffen Schraut, which is new since last season, and, according to Kail, is also impressing with its ability to supply. Labels: Cappopera, Cinque, EAN 13, Etiqueta Negra, Etoile du Monde, Frankie Morello, Gimos, Herzensangelegenheit, Horo, Ice Iceberg, Iceberg, Just Cavalli, Maliparmi, Napapijri, Panama Jacket, Phil Petter, Pianura Studio, Pinko, Riani, Rossoforte Acc, Steffen Schraut, Sundek, Trapper Queens, Tru Trussardi, Trussardi Jeans, Versace Collection, Versace Jeans, Who’s Who Aco Modeagentur GmbH, Salzburg/Austria, www.acomode.at

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www.stetson-europe.com Pitti Uomo, Florence: 8-11 Jan. 2013, D/14 Centr. Pavillon Bread & Butter, Berlin: 15-17 Jan. 2013, L.O.C.K., H 7.32 Première Classe, Paris: 19-22 Jan. 2013 Pure, London: 10-12 Feb. 2013 CPM, Moscow: 26 Feb.-1 March 2013

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Aco

Brands to the Forefront

Michael Schulz of the Düsseldorf fashion agency Aco knows that brands are becoming more and more important. "Brands do particularly well in times of crisis because they have a higher level of trust," says the agency manager. In this respect, Just Cavalli and Versace Collection, are the strongest collections, followed by Ice Iceberg and Pinko, trendy and good value for money according to Michael Schulz. What makes them special is also their delivery rhythm, which is determined by need, so there are three collections per season and fashionable immediate action programmes. Including a current charity project for Ethiopia, with typical Pinko bags with African designs. "These special programmes are a huge opportunity for retail to improve sales figures at once," says Schulz. New additions include Dsquared Underwear and the relaunched collection by Pirelli P Zero for outerwear and shoes. And the colourful and strong women's collection Parosh from Milan, which has taken on the agency as a promoter. Labels: 2nd Day by Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Bikkembergs Underwear, Bun Accessories, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Della Ciana, Dsquared Underwear, Frankie Morello, Geospirit, Hardy Amies, Ice Iceberg, Just Cavalli, LJung, Love Moschino Accessoires, Maison Du Posh, Moschino Underwear, Parosh, Pianura Studio, Pinko, Pirelli P Zero, Versace Collection, Who’s Who, Yves Salomon Uomo Aco Modeagentur, Düsseldorf/ Germany, www.acomode.de The Agency Aco Deutschland relies on brands, like Just Cavalli here.

agen cies

Komet & Helden

Olive Oil and Wine

Since January, the agency Komet und Helden has occupied the position of marketing manager for the first time. "We are delighted that Michael Prues is reinforcing our team and taking on the task of liaising between the customer and the brand and of being the first point of contact here," says Floran Ranft, who runs the agency together with Henrik Soller. "We are growing steadily, and in doing so we want to continue to provide a good service." This also means new fashion additions for the agency, which has specialised in a few strong brands, complemented by some small, yet sophisticated collections. For example, You Footwear and Diemme, two technically accomplished and high-quality labels. And the most prominent newcomer at Komet and Helden is C.P. Company. "The brand fits in perfectly with our portfolio," says Henrik Soller. "Now we want to further expand the German market." Also new is the leather label Stewart, with leather bomber jackets for men and women. Behind it is a Florentine company that places great importance on high-quality, traditional leather processing; for example, the leather is softened using natural materials like olive oil and wine. An extensive archive, with original military clothing like, for example, aviator jackets from the last century, provides inspiration for the particularly authentic style. Blauer USA, the strongest brand in Komet und Helden's portfolio after Woolrich, also relies on authenticity. American cops' uniforms originate from Blauer USA, and a successful, licensed Italian fashion collection has developed from this. Now there is also a new campaign for the spring/summer season, shot by photographer Peter Heck at Venice Beach in a way that embodies its image. Labels: AG Adriano Goldschmied, Baracuta, B.D. Baggies, Blauer USA, Bowery, C.P. Company, Chevignon Heritage, Chevignon Togs Unlimited, Diemme, Gilded Age, Hartford, Liis Japan, Pence, Preventi, Riccardo Forconi, Stewart, Superdry, Wally Walker, Worn Free, Woolrich, You Footwear Komet und Helden, Munich/Germany, www.kometundhelden.de

Henrik Soller, Owner of Komet und Helden: "We also want to maintain our quality standards in the future and we want to pro­ vide the best possible service." 113 style in progress

Agentur Griesinger

Specialists Only

„We‘re looking for specialists“, Martin Steckel, General Manager of Internationale Mode GmbH Rolf Griesinger describes the Munich trade agency‘s selection criteria for brand newcomers. „We are also looking for labels that are clearly distinguishable and suppliers that offer a good service.“ After all, the agency has been in the business for 30 years and its focus on womenswear continues to be successful. The portfolio consists of knitwear, jackets, coats, trousers, blazers, shirts and blouses and can be ordered in the showroom in Munich or at the tradeshows in Berlin and Düsseldorf. „We have found a trouser specialist in Kubera 108 who showcase their expertise with an excellent fit and beautiful detailing“, says Martin Steckel pleased. The newcomer‘s models are exclusively produced in Italy and can be ordered via Internationale Mode GmbH Rolf Griesinger from the autumn/winter buying season. Labels: Bloom, FFC, Flowers for Friends, IQ+Berlin, Kubera 108, Neve Nera Agentur Griesinger, Munich/Germany, www.griesinger-mode.de


Every skiing jacket goes through countless quality checks. We do the first 600. You and the mountains do the rest.


fairs 050 RIGHT NOW

Munich Fabric Start

Optimism Prior to the New Season‘s Kick-Off The right exhibitors, the right visitors: The Bread & Butter relies on its focus.

Bread & Butter

Smaller, finer, more inspirational

This time around the Bread & Butter is presenting a new face with around 10,000 square metres less and a reduced number of exhibitors. The event's concept has also been reorganised. "It's not enough to streamline the hall areas, the concept of the entire fair needs to be reconsidered, just as the market redefines itself", says Müller. The biggest change can be seen in the former Denim Base which will be known as Urban Base in future. The halls were originally dominated by giant stands and are now being set up in a mix and match type system. Major exhibitors such as G-Star or Tommy Hilfiger, Strellson and Marc O’Polo will be standing at the sides of the hall, smaller stands will be in the middle, featuring accessory manufacturers from the Treasury and gastronomy. This should energize regular paths. The Urban Superior halls will remain the same but will no longer be sub-divided into men's and women's in future. L.O.C.K and Fire Department will also remain virtually unchanged. New names and a new constellation are also being given to Urban Fashion (formally Fashion Now) and Upper Street (formally Sport & Street). New exhibitors to the portfolio are Barbour Ladieswear, Flathead, Rocky Mountain Featherbed along with the returnees such as G-Shock, Roeckl, Lindebergh, FTC, Gestuz, Schott, Napapijri and Pendleton. 15th to 17th January 2013, www.breadandbutter.com

While the industry is excitedly looking towards Berlin and the new round of tradeshows, the Munich Fabric Start is ready for the kick-off to the spring/summer fabric season 2014. The feedback for the round of tradeshows in September 2012 were more than positive - with a record number of over 860 exhibitors and 18,000 visitors - the Munich Fabric Start is also forecasting unbroken positive feedback and increasing numbers of exhibitors for the next edition from 5th to 7th February 2013 in Munich’s M.O.C. Numerous events such as a major trend summit and lectures and discussions concerning issues of sourcing and sustainability round off the spectrum of information again. Besides the numerous new segments successfully introduced at previous events such as the Shirtings premium platform for shirt fabrics, the creative workshop design studios or ready-made solutions for the purchase of finished goods, the Blue Zone denim tradeshow has been firmly anchored in the jeans industry for years and will again be taking place in parallel to the Munich Fabric Start in the neighbouring Zenith Hall (5th - 6th February 2013). Around 55 exhibitors are hoping to boost the comeback of denim with their innovative products. 5th to 7th February 2013, www.munichfabricstart.de

Pitti Uomo 83 and Pitti W 11

Two brands, four heads

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have succeeded in breathing new life into the Kenzo name. They are appearing with the label at the Pitti Uomo.

113 style in progress

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have succeeded in breathing new life into the Kenzo name. They are appearing with the label at the Pitti Uomo. The ChineseKorean fashion duo Humberto Leon and Carol Lim will be providing a multi-cultural guest appearance along with the French music producer Gildas Loaëc and the Japanese architect Masaya Kuroki. Lapo Cianchi, communication and event manager or Pitta Immagine is impressed by the creativity of the four artistic minds. He describes Kenzo as "one of the most interesting and amusing phenomena of the modern age" while Loaëc and Kuroki are blessed with appreciative words: "The first presentation of their womenswear collection is a powerful event. Maison Kitsuné represents a chic, contemporary look of fine materials embellished with expert tailoring and fine detailing. We are also certain that the womenswear collection will also fit perfectly into the line." 8th to 11th January 2013, www.pittimmagine.com


052 RIGHT NOW

fairs

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin

A Universal Date in Berlin for a Stop

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in the fashion centre of Berlin.

Anita Tillmann and Norbert Tillmann are celebrating the X factor - the tenth anniversary of the Premium.

Already in its twelfth season, the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week will be taking place in January 2013. At the same time as the fashion shows in the German capital this time around. The IMG event organisers have announced that the shows will be running from 15th to the 18th January. The location remains the same: Strasse des 17. Juni at Brandenburg Gate. 15th to January 2013, www.fashionweek-berlin. mercedes-benz.de

ISPO Munich

Renewed Growth

The ISPO Munich 2013 reports a slight increase in net exhibit space to more than 104,000 square metres. At the upcoming event, around 2,000 exhibitors will be presenting their news from the sporting goods segment of Outdoor, Ski, Action and Performance Sports and will include returnees such as Quiksilver again. The ISPO is considered a driving force in the industry. Numerous side-events will be accompanying the main event. For example, the ISPO Award, the ISPO Brand New, a Snow Ice & Rock Summit, seminars and lectures on a wide variety of topics such as textile trends, e-commerce or cross-channelling. Three weeks following the Munich event, the Asian ISPO Beijing will be starting in the China National Convention Centre in Peking. All the signs here are also pointing towards growth. In 2012, there were 500 exhibitors and 24,500 visitors, around 600 exhibitors are expected for 2013 including Adidas Outdoor, Mammut and Haglรถfs. ISPO Munich: 3rd to 6th February 2013, ISPO Beijing: 27th February to 2nd March. www.ispo.com

Premium

The Tenth Year

Congratulations, Premium celebrates its tenth anniversary this January. "After having created a successful base for high-quality fashion in Berlin in recent years, we look to the future with positivity and power, so as to maintain and further build on the level of quality," says Norbert Tillmann, owner and CEO of Permium Exhibitions. It will be celebrated with a Premium & Friends Party in the place where it all began: the U-Bahn tunnel on Potsdamer Platz on the 17th January. Furthermore, on the occasion of its anniversary event, the trade fair is boosting its commitment to vulnerable children with several charity campaigns. About 900 exhibitors will present their collections at the Premium, including creative newcomers and established brands. Also taking part is an array of denim brands like Current Elliott, True Religion, Koral Denim, Silver Jeans and Paige Denim. 15th-17th January, www.premiumexhibitions.com

113 style in progress


054 RIGHT NOW

SUPER

Discussion on the Starting Date for the New Tradeshow

The new tradeshow in Milan has been announced for months. A new tradeshow for Prèt-á-Porter collections and accessories will be taking place in Milan's exhibition grounds from 23rd to 25th February 2013. The initiative was taken by the Florentine tradeshow organiser Pitti Immagine and Milan's tradeshow Fiera Milano in cooperation with the city of Milan. "This is more than an alliance between two fashion organisers, it concerns an innovative exhibition that combines the capacities of two well-known fashion shows into one" says the director of Fiera Milano, Enrico Pazzali on the initiative. The focus is on innovation and quality. The choice of name fell on SUPER. "Nothing can possibly go wrong with such an ambitious name", says Raffaelo Napoleone, head of the Pitti Immagine tradeshow. For months, he's been pressing to discontinue and replace the three order platforms organised by Pitti Immagine in Milan (Touch, NeoZone and Cloudnine). Incorporating the avant-garde White tradeshow into "Nothing can possibly go wrong with such the new event was also considered originally. This an ambitious name", caused a certain amount of disappointment and Raffaelo Napoleone, slight scepticism regarding the new tradeshow on CEO Pitti Immagine the part of Mario Boselli, the president of Milan's fashion chamber. White wants to go it alone in its current form. Boselli had indeed been pushing for a new fashion tradeshow, but he demanded the show's dates be brought forward. The Milan SUPER should have been taking place in January at the same time as the men's fashion weeks. This was the only way the Milanese could pip the Paris competition at the post. Since, according to Boselli, buyers order "long before Milan's Prèt á Porter shows". These will take place between 20th and 26th February 2013. Tradeshow director Napoleone and the CEO of the Milan Trade Fair are of a different opinion and are convinced that the fashion trade will be placing orders during the Prèt à Porter shows. The Question of Timing. The SUPER aspires to be a "useful and creative forum for exhibitors and buyers". Prèt-à-Porter collections and accessories in the premium segments will be shown at the fair. According to Napoleone, they will be an Italian-international mix consisting of strong traditional brands, upcoming labels and young designers. Official silence reigns over the number of exhibitors as acquisition only started at the beginning of November. Tradeshow circles are expecting between 150 to 200 exhibitors. Location is Hall 3 in the historic exhibition building of Fieramilanocity (entrance Piazza 6 Febbraio). "It was time for a courageous cut", says Managing Director Raffaello Napoleone of the step. SUPER is not to be in any way an alternative or complement to the Pitti Immagine. The new tradeshow is to be exactly what Milan needs at the moment, in order to keep its international significance and to further expand, says Managing Director of the Milan Tradeshow, Enrico Pazzali on the decision. However, for the time being, the Prèt-à-Porter tradeshow Mipap organised by the FierraMilano will continue to be held in parallel with the "SUPER" in the neighbouring premises of the Via Gattamelata. 23rd to 25th February in Milan, www.fieramilano.it The historic building in Milan's traditional exhibition grounds, Padiglione 3, is the location of the new "SUPER" fashion show.

113 style in progress

GDS

Star Squad

The GDS is showing plenty that is new and famous at its upcoming event in March. Including the shoe line by Michael Kors as well as the collection See by Chloé, Inès de la Fressange and Hester van Eeghn, which stand for an unusual style. In addition, the sneakers by sisters Angela and Vanessa Simmons enhance the Düsseldorf trade fair, known from the US series Run‘s House and Daddy‘s Girls. Newcomers show their programmes at the Design Attack under the motto Snow TV, while the whole kids‘ area has a completely new look. Lectures and seminars top off the trade fair programme, the focus is on trends for autumn/winter 2013/14 and relevant industry issues. For example Modeurop‘s fashion forecast, the German Shoe Institute‘s fashion pool and a wellness round table. 13th -15th March, www.gds-online.com

fairs


strong people, strong portfolio, strong business ---------------

a very strong show! --------------heritage signature brands & authentic contemporary newcomers sharing their passion for craftsmanship, precision & quality, united at one place, one platform, one tradeshow:

the L.O.C.K. BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN Januar y 15–17th, 2013 w w w. b read and bu tter.c o m /lo ck


056 RIGHT NOW

Munich Fashion Company

A Confession of Faith...

... towards the two Munich and Düsseldorf locations and the future of tradeshows. After the Munich Fashion Company had extended their lease for the B1 in Düsseldorf in October of last year, the total area in Munich was expanded in December by House 1 in the MTC which was leased for ten years. In addition to the previous order tradeshows Munichfashion WoMen and Supreme, the company is also taking on the tradeshow Dessous Paradies and MTC Kindermoden this year. "We came to a good arrangement in terms of taking over both the order tradeshow and the other events from the MTC World of Fashion GmbH and are very pleased about this big step. No doubt in future several other new, creative and unique events will develop in the MTC," says Managing Director Hartmut Schade. The coming tradeshows Supreme in Düsseldorf (from 2nd to 5th February) and the Munichfashion WoMen in Munich (from 16th to 19th February) will take place as usual, contact partners within the tradeshow teams have not altered either. The tradeshow presentation of the two additional events Dessous Paradies and MTC Kindermoden (both from 25th to 27th January) will be adapted to the style of the Munichfashion WoMen and will therefore be presented this January with a new look. www.munichfashioncompany.com Even if there isn‘t an airport, then at least there‘s fashion in Schönefeld. The Panorama Berlin is celebrating its première.

Panorama Berlin

PREMIERE IN SCHÖNEFELD

The first edition of the Panorama Berlin will be taking place in the ExpoCenter Airport of the not yet opened BBI airport in Schönefeld under the motto of "Innovation and Inspiration". Panorama wants to close the gap between young avant-garde and the premium collections with its exhibition portfolio as well as offering a platform to streetwear and sportswear brands. Women's and men's collections, shoes and accessories will be shown in the style of an upscale department store over 20,000 square metres. The three A, B and C halls of the ExpoCenter are divided into sectors: "Aesthetic", "Best" and "Casual". 350 collections and 30,000 visitors are expected. A complimentary shuttle bus service will take visitors to the Schönefeld and Tegel airports and to other fashion hotspots in the city. 15th – 17th January 2013, www.panorama-berlin.com

The Munichfashion WoMen extends its tradeshow range in Munich and the total amount of space in the MTC.

fairs

Tranoï Preview

A New Platform for Womenswear

At the same time as the Tranoï Homme the Preview is taking place for the first time, a selective order platform for 100 women‘s collections.

113 style in progress

With the Tranoï Preview in Paris, the trade fair season will gain another ‚must‘ date in its calendar at the beginning of next year. The focus is on the women‘s collections of about a hundred designers, as well as a fashion show where such labels as Paul and Joe, April 77, Les Prairies de Paris and Acne will be presented. The Tranoï Preview is happening in the Gabriel Delorme Halle des Carrousel du Louvre at the same time as the Tranoï Hommes. Those attending the Tranoï Homme in the Palais de la Bourse are given free entrance to the Tranoï Preview with their tickets, and vice versa. A shuttle service will operate between the two trade fair venues. With the selection of young, upcoming designers, the trade fair, which was created by Tranoï boss Armand Hadida, is expected to complement the Tranoï Femme which will follow in March. The founder of the L’Eclaireur concept stores is one of the greats of the industry. 19th to 21st January 2013, www.tranoi.com/preview


Bei uns laufen die Models das ganze Jahr

Š Alle Bilder aus Jolie Runway 01/2013

Nicht nur zur Fashion Week-

www.bm-brandmedia.de


058 RIGHT NOW

The Gallery

Düsseldorf in the Spotlight

Following its launch last year in the summer, the next The Gallery Düsseldorf will be taking place from the 1st to the 4th February. The established location, the "Botschaft" in Cecilienallee, provides a platform for contemporary fashion, design and accessories. The historic building exudes a special atmosphere but what's more, it also scores points with its central location and proximity to the showrooms on Kaiserswerther Strasse. The exhibitors also profit from the new site: They can win customers back or generate new customers. The Gallery is booked out in February too, with more than 200 collections. New designers such as Joanna Hawrot or Peter O. Mahler as well as labels like Derhy or Sulu enhance the individual tradeshow concept. 1st to 4th February 2013, www.the-gallery-duesseldorf.com

Show & Order

HIGH TENSION IN THE KRAFTWERK

The Show & Order is fully booked up for the start of its third episode in the Kraftwerk on Köpenicker Straße in Berlin-Kreuzberg. Having started with 100 labels as a new international order platform for premium collections as part of the Berlin Fashion Week in January 2011, the tradeshow in its impressive location provides a fine and selective presentation area for what have now become 200 labels, including around 60 newcomers. The most important change: On Wednesday, the tradeshow's second day, opening times have been extended until 9 p.m.for the exclusive "Late Night Orders". Verena Malta, Managing Director and initiation of the Show & Order: "Our exhibitors are in favour of the concentrated extension of the opening times and we hope that many buyers and visitors will take advantage of this option. This new time frame offers a unique opportunity to enjoy the ambience of the Kraftwerk far from the hustle and bustle of the tradeshow and to make new contacts, continuing the order dates within a relaxed atmosphere of insider talks. This now meets with the wishes for optimal business conditions and creates more space for intensive business. The demand has been amazing and we are very pleased about this as well as all the recommendations from dealers. There are many exciting collections to see and numerous exclusive labels including Tibi NY, Malvina, Cashmere by Tania, Lareida and St. Emile who are all new additions and add great value to our successful Show & Order concept. To do this, Verena Malta is placing the focus on the high aesthetic demands of the international brands and designers on the collection presentation and the opportunity to react to the wishes and needs of their exhibitors and visitors both on a personal and individual level. Other newcomers also include: 1921 Jeans, Aigner, Appartemento 50, Barbed, Elizabeth and James, Ginette NY, Gustav, Habsburg Kleidermanufaktur, Maison Passage, Michael Stars, Nickelson, Ottod`ame and Saint Noir. 15th to 17th January 2013, www.showandorder.com

fairs Verena Malta can be happy: The Show & Order has grown to 200 brands.

113 style in progress

Novomania

Has Moved into Summer

The Chinese tradeshow Novomania has moved its date to the summer. The event in Shanghai will be taking place from the 17th to 19th July 2013 instead of in March. The reason for moving the date is to adapt to the international tradeshow calendar - between the European events and the American trade fairs in the US. "The Novomania Shanghai 2013 will be an entry point into the Chinese market where the future of the fashion industry in China is defined", says Guilherme Faria, General Manager of Novomania. After a brief spell on the former Expo grounds, the tradeshow is moving to the Shanghai Mart. This provides a much greater and direct involvement with consumers and retail stores in the pulsating metropolis. The last Novomania in March 2012 had almost 13,000 visitors who were presented with around 150 labels from Asia, Europe, and the United States, including Superdry, Calvin Klein, Replay and Mango. 17th to 19th July 2013 , www.novomania.com.cn


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München

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Salzburg

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064 Meindl Authentic Luxury

want it Meindl Authentic Luxury

At the Top

"This one step further towards the top is really only a logical step" - Markus Meindl uses these words to describe the new model for his Meindl Authentic Luxury Collections, which he will be presenting in his Munich store at the same time as the Munich Fashion in February of this year. The exquisite selection of women's and men's jackets shouldn't however be seen as a standalone or completely separate line of the brand it is more about using the designs to showcase the absolutely high level of the collection. To do this, the high quality of the materials are processed and interpreted taking a completely new perspective. Leather is laminated with Loden, baby calfskin with felt. This results in a look all of its own and generates new characteristics whilst appearing at the same time to be more wintry than the usual creations. For this reason, the themes seasonally focus on spring, autumn and winter and provide the perfect alternative to lightweight lambskin. A higher materials usage, the craftsmanship perfected over many years and the use of the latest technology are reflected in the models that are aimed at customers who understand these matters and the Zeitgeist of the line. Meindl Authentic Luxury, Meindl Bekleidung GmbH & Co.KG, Kirchanschöring/Germany, T 0049.86.85985-0, laden@meindl.de, www.meindl-fashions.de Meindl Authentic Luxury, Internationale Mode GmbH, Rolf Griesinger, Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.24295120, office@griesinger-mode.de, www.griesinger-mode.de

Delikatessen

Capsule collection by Michael Kampe In 2009, Andrzej Lisowski and Stephen Hartog founded their menswear label Delikatessen. Every year since then, two collections appear, the key pieces featuring high-quality tailored shirts. In addition, Michael Kampe is designing a capsule collection in summer 2013. The 24-year-old German designer has designed three shirts, one sweater, one parka and a raincoat for this, all exclusively made from Italian and Japanese fabrics. Delikatessen is available in selected shops in Japan, Germany and the Netherlands, including Trüffelschwein in Berlin, Man aan de Gracht in Amsterdam and Tomorrowland in Tokyo. Purchase prices are between 50 and 180 euros, calculated with a markup of three. Distribution runs via the Turbot B.V. headquarters in Amsterdam. A market entry in the US, France and South Korea is in the pipeline. Turbot B.V. / Andrzej Lisowski, Amsterdam/ Netherlands, T 0031.20 528 73 25, andre@delikatessen.jp, www.delikatessen.jp

113 style in progress

Delikatessen

Doimoi Berlin

Clean, rough, stylish Steven Tran and Lara Meier have been bringing two collections to market every year since founding their progressive menswear label Doimoi Berlin in 2011. Stylistically, they pick out clean Scandinavian lines and raw British elements. The collections each consist of 20 different styles in three or four colours and are made in Hong Kong from Japanese and Korean fabrics. So far, Doimoi Berlin is only available in selected stores such as AIDA in London, Trüffelschwein and Le Gang in Berlin and RSRV in Brussels. Following its successful launch in Germany, Belgium and England, market entry for Italy and Spain is in the pipeline for 2013. Purchase prices are between 15 and 80 euros and are still distributed by the designer duo directly with a markup between 2.8 and 3.0. Doimoi Berlin/Steven Tran and Lara Meier, 10178 Berlin/ Germany, T 0049.30.2938 1016, info@doimoi-berlin.com, www.doimoi-berlin.coml

Doimoi Berlin


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066 WANT iT

Maska

AD.M 200 euros. Retail trade margins move between 2.5 for Europe and 2.7 for Sweden. Maska, Maria Svensson, Gothenburg/ Sweden, T 0046.702.178828, maria@ maskaknits.com, www.maskaknits.com

Home

Home

AT HOME EVERYWHERE Eddy and Jacques Dousse and Steve Harris. Three skater friends have a plan. And it‘s working out. While still in school, they open their first firm, do what they want, as long as the quality is top notch. Swiss watches are a good example, precise and perfectly handcrafted. At first it‘s T-shirts that the Dousse brothers create. And people buy them from them. And then they give in to their curiosity and discover the world of watchmakers, and out of this come cult items. There are now belts, caps, more T-shirts, more watches. 27 points of sale in Switzerland, ten in Austria and five in Germany. Mostly shops where surfers and boarders feel comfortable. The home guys travel, board, work their experiences into their collection pieces. The firm is their home, no matter where in the world they actually are. home timelab, Freiburg/Switzerland, T 0041.76.32754 35, www.whereishome.com

Maska

Uncompromising Knitwear In 2009, when Maria Svensson and Lisa Leierth from Sweden founded their knitting label Maska Knits in Gothenburg, their initial strategy only envisaged sales via their own online store. But the two young entrepreneurs quickly reached the limits of their technical expertise in e-commerce and interested customers were also getting in touch at the same time, principally Making

113 style in progress

AD.M

The Work.Life Polo Shirt

Things from Zürich, whose simple, but high-quality knitwear collection had made an impression on the two of them. So, a business was born from the idea. Maska’s design approach is based on the use of wool, cotton and silk. Uncompromising high standard with no added synthetic fibres. The designs have strong Scandinavian overtones, are kept simple and targeted towards a younger audience than most of their other knitwear competitors. Without wanting to be too classic, the collection focuses on Slow Fashion, as a result there are no classic seasons in the two collections per year. The label is already represented outside Sweden, with a total of 18 customers in Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Japan and includes such stores as Elfinger in Berlin, We Bandits in Vienna and Rivera in Basel. Prices of tops and accessories range between 100 and 350 euros, whereby the core retail price ranges between 180 and

Aren’t there more than enough polo shirts? Zürich’s René Karrer and Andreas Steiner, who are actually from the advertising and marketing sector, say not. The thing that was missing was the “WORK.LIFE POLO”, a polo shirt that looks cools when you’re off duty but with a few sophisticated details such as an extra-stiff collar, looks good enough to wear under a jacket. The initial experiment with the first collection in a pop-up store generated great interest, so now it’s time to hazard a go with their own shop. The numbered short-sleeved and long-sleeved polos shirts (from 99 to 189 CHF) are now carried by six boutiques across Switzerland, and the trend is growing. As well as the polo shirts, jackets and jeans by Tabacchi and U-NI-TY are also available over 70 square metres in the flagship store in Zürich’s old town. The polo shirt makers are expecting to attract a great deal of attention with their Special Editions, the online shop should also attract more customers, too. AD.M Zurich AG, Andreas Steiner, Zürich/Switzerland, T0041.43.8173178, steiner@the-polo.com, www.the-polo.coml


068 WANT iT craftsmanship and emerging trends a platform with the scarves. Every scarf is hand-rolled and justifies the retail prices ranging between 59 and 149 euros. The majority of sales are made via their own online store but Larogy is also aimed at selected stores such as Nfive, Boutique Weiss and Nägele & Strubell in Vienna and Quartier 206 in Berlin. Asal Shirvani and Manuel Egger from Versus Design, Sophie Liebich, Katharina Maria Schaffer and Judith Sönnicken were all protagonists of the first collection. Roco GmbH, Vienna/Austria, T 0043.650.9442299, service@larogy.com, www.larogy.com

Stutterheim

Handmade Raincoats from Stockholm

Larogy

Larogy

Art in the Carré Precisely folded around the head, elegantly draped around the neck or loosely fluttering from a handbag. Larogy, the Viennese scarf label presents at total of 12 different ways to wear the artfully printed silk scarves on its website. Focus is on the prints which are each designed by four different artists. Each design is limited to 150 scarves. When these have been sold, a new artist steps up to the plate. Martina Rogy, founded Larogy in 2011, aiming to provide art,

Stutterheim

113 style in progress

Alexander Stutterheim has declared war on rain. Inspired by his grandfather's oilcloth raincoat, he established the outdoor label Stutterheim, which consists exclusively of classic, clean rainwear, away from the broad range of sportswear. Its key piece is the unisex raincoat "Arholma," which is complemented by the "Stockholm" and "Arvid" variations. Starting in the coming season, there will also be rubber boots in the '60s look and a rain cape for women. All products are made by hand in Sweden. At the same time, the windproof and waterproof coats work without GoreTex thanks to its sealed seams and laminated cotton. Purchase prices begin at 50 euros for rubber boots and go up to 895 euros for the "Arvid" model. The creations are available in up to

Wommelsdorff

six colours at Voo Store in Berlin, 290 SQM in Amsterdam or Trunk Clothing in London. The Wunschnaht agency is responsible for its sale and distribution in Germany and Austria. Wunschnaht, Offenbach / Germany, T 0049.69.977 665 70, info@wunschnaht.de, www.stutterheim.se

Wommelsdorff

Anything but Old Hat Wommelsdorff sounds typically Old German. And that’s intentional, because the designer Anne Schramm sees her collection of knitwear accessories as a homage to traditional craftsmanship and her grandmother Maria Wommelsdorff. Anne Schramm started her career as a fashion designer at Christian Dior in Paris, moving to the larger fashion houses in London, New York and Munich and finally founding her label in Berlin. Attention is drawn to the essence of the chunky knitwear accessories for men and women through the use of its minimalistic style. The materials used, such as cashmere, mohair, raffia and leather, are exclusively made in Berlin by freelance knitters. Wommelsdorf made its début in 2008 on the Runway Show by Martin Grant in Paris. Each men and women’s collection has around 25 to 30 pieces and two collections a year and went from there directly to addresses such as Barney’s in New York, Opening Ceremony in L.A., Bon Marche in Paris and Quartier 206 in Berlin. Wholesale prices depend on material and style and start at 50 euros for a virgin wool hand-knitted hat upwards to 250 euros for large cashmere scarves. Over the long-term, Anne Schramm plans to expand the collection with ponchos, boleros and knitted jackets which were partly made in 2011 as individual pieces for the Cabinet de Curiosités at Browns in London. Wommelsdorff Berlin, Berlin/Germany, T 0049.30.28886568, info@wommelsdorffberlin.de, www.wommelsdorff-berlin.del


070 WANT iT

nowned Designer for Tomorrow Award in 2011. Having completed her studies at the Weissensee Art Academy the previous year, the designer won over the jury with her timeless fashion according to the modular principle: Her dresses, skirts, trousers and jackets are constructed within a modular cutting pattern, making them seasonindependent and giving customers the ability to combine different models. The motto for spring 2013 is "Support your local heroes" - Kiesel combines the decorative print illustrations designed by art friends with impressionistic colours. Purchase prices for dresses range between 91 - 110 euros, jackets for 110 to 123 euros, trousers from 91 to 110 euros with a markup of 2.5. Bags and accessories complement the collection. It is already available in stores such as D&G Milan, Experiment Store Bucharest, Deutsche Designer in Freiburg as well as Konk in Berlin. Kiesel, Berlin /Germany, T 0049.30.95594553, info@alexandra-kiesel.de, www.alexandra-kiesel.de

Monsieur Lacenaire

Simón Ese

The rest is good too

Simón Ese

Alexandra Kiesel

Monsieur Lacenaire

Knitwear for Nonchalant Dandies Monsieur Lacenaire, the young Parisian men‘s knitwear label and now in its fourth season, is expanding its product range. Following the successful launch of Norwegian jumpers and knitted college jackets, dandy pullovers and preppy cardigans in 2011, the range is to be expanded by trousers and shirts from summer 2013. In line with the rest of the collection, each of the new product groups will be in several colours made from fine, super-soft yarns such as baby alpaca and with a special twist. One of

113 style in progress

the people in charge of this is Head Designer Garance Broca who has previously worked for Hermès, Balmain and Joseph. So far, the cool styles by Monsieur Lacenaire are available in France, Spain, Germany, Belgium, Italy, Russia, Japan and Korea, including selected shops such as Soto in Berlin, Colette in Paris and Hunting and Collecting in Brussels. Purchase prices range from 80 to 150 euros with a markup of 2.5. Distribution runs via the Monsieur Lacenaire headquarters in Paris. Monsieur Lacenaire, Paris/France, T 0033.62.7256511, sales@monsieurlacenaire.com, www.monsieurlacenaire.com

Alexandra Kiesel

Modular System In a career that is still only just beginning, Berlin‘s Alexandra Kiesel has already achieved a great deal: The Esmod lecturer won the re-

No Waste Design. Simón Ese is a German-Mexican trio consisting of Andreas Bernhard, who manages distribution in Munich, Bernhard Wagner and Veronica Mora who live in Mexico City and are responsible for design, production and logistics there. All pieces from the Simón Ese collection are produced from offcuts from fabric production in Mexico City and are made of 100 per cent recycled materials. The project initially started with a test run of the spring/summer collection 2011 in the Buttermelcherstrasse shop in Munich. Simón Ese was presented to the international trade at the Premium fair in Berlin in January 2012, where the women‘s collection Simón Esa was also showcased for the first time. Stylistically, the collection is influenced by current streetstyles with a strong leaning towards the electric scene. Ties with Mexico are reflected in ethnic-Indian patterns in the detailing, such as borders on T-shirts. The collection is priced between 15 and 52 euros wholesale with a markup between 2.8 to 3.0 for retail. The pieces can be ordered classically via preorder, however, short-term re-ordering is also possible. Andreas Bernhard, Munich/Germany, T 0049.179.4564926, andi@simonese.de, www.simonese.del


VISIT US

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072 WANT iT

Live 2 Be Free

Loud Rebellion After reading this article, anyone still complaining that the youth of today have lost their desire for rebellion between iPads and the G8 simply doesn't get it. The political manifesto of the brand Live 2 Be Free from New York reads a bit "old school. They feed their blog with lines like "What is freedom to choose, when your choices have been screened, processed and preselected?" Their trademark is the gas mask, which is the logo on all T-shirts, their graphics provide symbolic explosives. Behind this, is the Creative Director Set Free Richardson, owner of the design and marketing agency, The Oval Company, who works for customers such as Adidas, Nike, Vans, PF Flyer and Nixon or for Universal Music and Mos Def, among others. On Independence Day, on 4 July 2012, the brand was launched. It was sold on their own online shop up until then. The sales team for national and European retail is being developed at the moment. Live 2 Be Free, Liza Goncalves, New York/USA, T 001.917.8193099, info@live2befree.com, www.live2befree.com, www.theovalcompany.com

Zirkeltraining

Dörr, the bag father Bernd Dörr from Mülheim in the Ruhr region found that there is a lack of suitable, exclusive bags in retro-sporty fashion. And when he came across a mountain of disused gym mats, the idea for the label was born. Since their première in 2007, the products, made from used sports leather and discarded mats, have won several prizes. Customers are quite willing to wait several months for their bag, made from a disused pommel horse. So that it doesn‘t get boring, Dörr has designed belts made of the leather from discarded vaulting boxes. The „body belt“ has the potential to sell as far away as Japan, just like its bag-shaped friends. As well as this, Zirkeltraining is also to be found in the German-speaking countries and Scandinavia. The hype is easy to explain: all pieces are unique, there aren‘t even that many old gymnastic apparatuses anymore. Prices: between 29 and 350 euros retail price, from accessories to travelling bags. Bernd Dörr Recycling Goods, Mülheim/Ruhr/ Germany, T 0049.203.4557936 www.zirkeltraining.biz

Live 2 Be Free

Tom and Hawk

Tom and Hawk

Colourful Knitwear for Young Guys Sharing a fondness for knitwear, the two sisters, Annette and Susanne Wirz, founded the menswear label Tom and Hawk in August 2011. Whilst their winter début collection was mainly composed of heavy cardigans along with the rough shirts, the summer collection included delicate knitted pullovers and soft shirts. Essential design features of the collection include ethnic and colourful designs of the '80s. The sisters use a CMS knitting machine to make the unusual

113 style in progress

Zirkeltraining

patterns. The purchase price for a T-shirt is around 15 euros, for a heavy cardigan around 100 euros, with a markup of 2.6. So far, creations are available in Germany, the Netherlands, Great Britain, Denmark, Japan, Canada and the Czech Republic in selected stores such as Stierblut in Munich, Le Bon Marché in Paris or Restored in Amsterdam. Other countries following from next season are Italy, Australia, the US, France, Russia, Greece and China. Tom and Hawk / Annette Wirz, Aalen/ Germany, T 0049.17.661190286, annette@tomandhawk.com, www.tomandhawk.coml


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074 WANT iT Turina

Shush

Shush

PSST! A new accessory label is about to launch! The first private label from best of retail GmbH in Cologne hasn’t hit the market as quietly as its name would suggest. Quite the opposite, in fact. Customers were ecstatic about the new scarves and bags at the ordering fairs for SS 2013. Both collections are designed in a patchwork style. The bags are made from cowhide with canvas (wholesale price ranges from 15.90 to 123 euros), the scarves in particular, made from silk and cotton, were a big hit (wholesale price 14 to 44 euros). Company boss Hans Matthijsse draws on the experience of professionals: The extraordinary bright colours provide a graphic contrast and yet the design itself has an extremely harmonious effect and originate from stylist and designer The first collection has been in stores since mid-November. Push: Matthijsse was able to win Miss Germany 2010, Anne Julia Hagen, as a model. Best of Retail GmbH, 51063 Cologne/ Germany, T 0049.221.33774500, e.pospiech@best-of-retail.com, www.shush-fashion.com

Turina

A different kind of jewellery A playful approach with unconventional materials - this acts as the catalyst for Sandra Turina with the experimental jewellery creations she has been producing in her Amsterdam workshop since 2010.

113 style in progress

The White Briefs

The White Briefs

More than just white underpants

Following several years conceptual work in design offices, the Dutch designer not only wants to provide decorative ornaments with her pieces - made using hardened straws, pleated paper tissue and folded brass strips amongst other things - she also want to provide a source of fascination and joy. In collaboration with the graphic designer Lena Steinborn the ABC collection was born - pendants in the shape of letters. Each section of the alphabet was assigned a certain character to inspire the wearer. Retail prices range from 29 euros for earrings and 54 euros for necklaces. Besides concept stores, museum shops and fashion boutiques in Amsterdam, Den Haag, Hamburg, Berlin, DĂźsseldorf and Paris, the jewellery is also available from its own online store at www. turinajewellery.com. Turina, Sandra Turina, 1011 Amsterdam/Netherlands, T 0031.6293.55992 contact@sandraturina.eu, www.sandraturina.eu

The White Briefs was founded in December 2009 by Henriette and Peter Simonsson in Mossbystrand on the southern coast of Sweden. Since then, the lingerie label has been providing men, women and children with super-soft basics made from wool and pima cotton, the cuts range from fitted to casually-loose and are always designed for comfort. Unlike the brand name suggests, The White Briefs also offer more than just white underpants. There are 35 styles, ranging from longsleeve tops to tank tops to homewear trousers, all available in three different colours. These permanent sellers are also complemented by two seasonal main collections a year, each available in 14 styles and four colours. The clean and modern cut of the lingerie creations are available from Edition Populaire in ZĂźrich, Amicis in Vienna or Pool in Munich, amongst others. Wholesale prices range between 11 and 25 euros with a retail price between 25 and 100 euros. The White Briefs HQ, Mossbystrand / Sweden, T 0046.70.48 20 670, sales@thewhitebriefs.com, www.thewhitebriefs.coml


EI N g u t Es h Emd b EgIN N t

m i t e i n e m s t i c h .

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076 WANT iT the opportunity of selecting own colour combinations. Houses such as Hirmer in Munich, Schnitzler fashion house in Münster or Pohland chain stores already have Drei Gürteltiere in their product range. The web store is also set up for international distribution. The belts have a retail price of 39 euros with a retail markup of 2.4. The Drei Gürteltiere have also started to produce Weekenders (170 euros), travel bags (220 euros) and laptop bags (95 euros) made from canvas with leather trim. Drei Gürteltiere GbR, Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.32404317, die@dreiguerteltiere.de, www.dreiguerteltiere.de

Thomas Rath Trousers

Trousers with Celeb-Appeal Cici Peel

Cici Peel

They’ve Got What it Takes! Every heard of low-pressure plasma technology? We’re not about to do a chemistry lesson here, but the results anyway are materials finished with metal. Gold, silver or platinum are applied to textile fibres, nowadays it’s more environmentally friendly and twenty-times thinner than in the past so that the textiles remain flexible. Cici Peel is using this process in his very first commercial collection, notably one where the surface plays a major functional role - skiwear. Women’s and men’s outfits, fur hats and a ski boot model were created this way. The company designs and produces in Switzerland and has found no less than one of the oldest Swiss ski boot brands, Heierling from Davos, as their cooperation partner. The bespoke shoe outfitters from Didier Couche & Co are considered to be one of the key players in the industry. The Cici Peel Heierling Edition will be expanded in the future, during the ISPO from 3rd to 6th February in Munich there will be a supplementary programme (in a showroom) which will include such elegant pieces as a lambskin coat. Retail prices: From 1,300 euros for trousers and shoes, up to 1,500 euros for jackets. Cici Peel, Dablooze Sagl, Mendrisio/ Switzerland, www.cicipeel.com

are made by hand in a charitable sewing studio which acts as a funding body for the long-term unemployed and physically-handicapped people in Munich. All the belts are made from pure cotton and have a fleece lining machined onto the inside to make them particularly hard-wearing. Part of the customer service the local production provides are very flexible re-order options, fast delivery times and

Drei Gürteltiere

Drei Gürteltiere

600,000,000 different ways There isn’t a collection in the traditional sense. With a total of 600 million combination options, that would be utopian. Drei Gürteltiere is a start-up by Christian Jürgens and Henrik von Wehrs who have been manufacturing colourful fabric belts since October 2009. The belts

113 style in progress

Thomas Rath Trousers

On the lookout for a designer for a premium trouser line, Gardeur CEO Gerhard Kränzle came across Thomas Rath, famous as a jury members on Germany's next Top Model. "When we met, it was as though we'd known one another forever", says Gerhard Kränzle. "After an hour, we were in the middle of the collection and at the end of the evening it was clear that we would be conquering the women's trousers market in the premium segment together." First prototypes were shown to a selected trade audience in November; now the entire collection is being showcased at the Berlin Show and Order as well as at the Thomas Rath Fashion Show in Baerensaal. High-quality materials, good fit and lovingly embellished details create the basis of the collection consisting of around 90 pieces and retailing between 159 and 279 euros. "Gardeur is my absolute ideal partner when it comes to trousers, the company melds tradition and perfect craftsmanship like no other", says Thomas Rath. Gardeur GmbH, Mönchengladbach/ Germany, T 0049.2161.8160, info@gardeur.de, www.gardeur.del


078 WANT iT

Mabrun M

Urban Mountaineers "Freedom is important to the creative process", says Thorsten Stiebing, Managing Director of the Italian premium label Mabrun putting it into a nutshell. Motivated by the great success of the last two years, Stiebing granted his design team all the freedom in the world in developing "Mabrun M", a small consciously top-notch capsule collection. The core of the concept is an exceptional mix of materials combined with the highest standards of technical perfection. Nylon meets Loden, lambskin meets down, the look moves between mountaineer romantic and urban utility. "Mabrun M is an incredibly exciting challenge for us. In many ways, we can tread new paths. At the same time though, we also want to reach new customers with this high-end product", says Stiebing, extremely pleased with the result. There are 15 pieces in both the men and women's collections and will be shown at the Pitti Uomo for the first time in January 2013. Première in Germany will be at the Premium Berlin. Mabrun S.p.A., Bassano del Grappa/ Italy, T 0039.04.24887311, info@mabrun.com. www.mabrun.com

Koral Los Angeles

Peter Koral‘s Latest Coup After 7 for all Mankind, its founder Peter Koral, together with his son David and art director Marc Atlan, launched his new denim label Koral in Los Angeles. The début collection consists of 52

Mabrun M

authentic styles including cigarette, skinny, pencil, bootcut and simple cut in different washes, which in some cases are made of denim materials developed specifically for Koral. One highlight is the "Lived in Length" line with eight washes. Another highlight is the palette of coloured models like avocado, black metallic or merlot. So far, Koral Los Angeles is available in Belgium, France, Italy, Switzerland, Spain, Great Britain and the Netherlands. Currently in Germany, in select shops, such as Jades in Düsseldorf, F95 in Berlin, or Tutto in Frankfurt. Wholesale prices range between 65 and 110 euros with a retail price of between 165 and 230 euros. Koral Deutschland, Jörg Nürnberger, 40221 Düsseldorf/ Germany, T 0049.16.33331112, nuernberger@m-jn.de, www.korallosangeles.com

Luis Trenker

Originality meets Functionality

Koral Los Angeles

113 style in progress

"Luis Trenker Berg" is the name of the line being presented for the first time as part of the winter collection 2013/14, and the line with which the South Tyrolean fashion label would like to occupy a niche that comes from demand: "The Mountain Collection is for those moments when we haven‘t so far been able to suitably dress our customers. Alternating between relaxing in a beautiful hotel in the mountains and activities in the open-air when one wants to be casual yet stylish." explains the owner Luis Trenker, Michi

Luis Trenker Klemera. Despite having its own message and a logo that is clearly different from the main collection, "Luis Trenker Berg" still places great value on tradition. The complete collection has 14 women‘s and 13 men‘s pieces and also highlights Loden materials from the Schladming-based company Loden Steiner. The collection includes Primaloft jackets, fleece vests and Loden, softshell knickerbockers. With the subtle combination of originality, design and function, international markets like Russia, Asia and the US are moving within its reach. Luis T S.r.l, Michi Klemera, Bozen/Italy, T 0039.0471.633022, vertrieb@luistrenker.com, www.luistrenker.coml


PREMIUM BERLIN 15.1.-17.1.2013 STANDNR. H7-D45 CPH VISION 31.1.-2.02.2013 LOKOMOTIVVÆRKSTEDET OTTO BUSSES VEJ 5A DK - 2450 COPENHAGEN SV STANDNR. 094 CIFF 31.1.-3.02.2013 BELLA CENTER CENTER BOULEVARD 5 DK - 2300 COPENHAGEN S STANDNR. E 019 DÜSSELDORF 2.02.-5.02.2013 UNITED FASHION RATHER STR. 49E, 2 OG. 40476 DÜSSELDORF

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082 LONGVIEW

"Multi-brand needs to be more exciting" Lodenfrey is a slice of Munich tradition. Despite empirical growth forecasts for multibrand retail, some more verifiable than others, they are a long way away from international expansion plans. The family business has already seen a relaunch of content, which has also brought the Lodenfrey brand closer to the younger generations. Because the philosophy of the company is based on: always continuing to grow within itself. The two Lodenfrey Managing Directors RalphMichael Nagel und Markus Hรถhn explain how that works in an interview with style in progress. Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Julian Hentzler

Stephan Huber: What was the biggest challenge for restructuring Lodenfrey, which was completed almost three years ago now? A department store like this almost develops a soul of its own over the decades, and this should be preserved.

Ralph-Michael Nagel: Our biggest challenge was to modernise the company and at the same time to make it known that Lodenfrey is, as ever, a Munich establishment. It was a lengthy process involving the whole design team. We finally managed to modernise and still hold on to existing features like, for example, the mahogany ceilings on the ground floor, as a style feature creating a warm atmosphere and the Munich flair in the store. Markus Hรถhn: It was basically about conserving the soul of the store mentioned above, while still bringing Lodenfrey into the next century. We didn't work on restructuring because the old concept was no longer successful, we simply wanted to take the next step. And I believe it has gone very well. SH: And what happened to the legendary wooden slide?

RN: That was actually very important to us because many customers really associate it with us. The new wooden slide is even more fun because we could make it steeper thanks to the new slope of the stairs. We consciously conserved features like the wooden stairs or the striking doors at the entrance of the store because they represent the tradition that lives on in our store. They are also part of this city. 113 style in progress

SH: Tradition is an essential keyword. What does Lodenfrey stand for in very differential and, to put it mildly, challenging market conditions?

MH: As always, it stands for trust, continuity, quality, service, and for several years now, for fashion and trends too. RN: And for good style. And for the belief that when I shop there I am properly dressed and receive honest advice. This isn't just an issue of purchasing, choosing the appropriate products, it's also about the service. Lodenfrey is a safe bet. SH: Nowadays, Lodenfrey serves several generations of customers at the same time. This is a huge challenge. How have customers' expectations of your store changed over the years?

MH: It's natural that our customers who travel abroad a lot are becoming more demanding

and more informed every year. When a competitor presents a new idea, it is almost expected to become standard by the next day. We provide a very broad range for customers looking for the aforementioned fashion, service and quality. Thanks to the completed relaunch, we have increased our number of younger customers in particular. In this segment, we carry a completely new range of brands. In the area of young and progressive trends, Lodenfrey is definitely perceived differently today than it was before the relaunch. For us, it was a reaction to the expectations of our different customers, and that doesn't only effect the very young generations. RN: The relaunch of content has boosted our credibility in lots of areas. But this doesn't just attract young customers. We also use it to focus on long-standing regular customers, who look specifically for trends and so definitely revert to younger silhouettes. It's also perceived in this way on the market. And another very important point is that Munich as a location has naturally changed too.

SH: Have customers' high expectations had an impact on the price levels in the product range? We automatically associate high demands with increased prices.

RN: By intensifying the product ranges in the premium segment, we underwent a certain development in prices but, in general, no, I wouldn't say that. These expectations are more reflected in the service than in prices. SH: But the level of prices in the premium segment as a


LONGVIEW 083

Ralph-Michael Nagel and Markus Hรถhn represent the successful balance of tradition and the modern age at Lodenfrey.

style in progress 113


084 LONGVIEW

whole has risen markedly over the past 10 years.

MH: Of course. That's clear. If today we are successful with Brunello Cucinelli or with Dolce & Gabbana and Tom Ford, then of course we are bound to the appropriate price level of these brands for the German market. But I believe that, in our message, we have also adopted a clear position on this, particularly in recent years. SH: Lodenfrey is a truly strong brand. International too. Considering the brand's strength, were you ever tempted to expand beyond Munich?

RN: (laughs) I would be, if you provided us with the capital. MH: Of course expansion towards more internationalisation is always appealing. But I am convinced that our concept is tailor made for Munich. This starts with our property and includes our neo-German "unique selling proposition" with our Trachten expertise. This can't be transferred to other cities. At the same time, in other cities at the moment there is a very different situation as regards competition in high fashion than there is here in Munich. SH: Stores also move from other cities to Munich...

"In the field of young and progressive trends, Lodenfrey is definitely perceived differently today than it was before the relaunch." Markus HĂśhn

RN: And they find it difficult.

SH: For me, in this respect, this raises the general question: growth at any price?

RN: There are famous exam-

ples of Munich stores that tried to duplicate their concept in another city and that couldn't withstand the huge pressure. It becomes clear within one or two years. As a family business, and with Markus HĂśhn as a partner, we prefer to pay homage to the maxim of being number one in Munich and developing synergies with some select partners. But we don't think much of duplicating our concept. MH: First we want to do our homework here in Munich. This process is a long way off completion. First and foremost, we want to get ourselves into a stable position for the future at home. Who knows what will happen in ten or twenty years?

SH: Nobody in our industry would dare to guess.

MH: Exactly.

SH: Which means we should look even more critically at DĂźsseldorfer Team Retail Excellence GmbH's current study, which predicts a 50% drop in sales for multi-brand retailers like Lodenfrey by 2020?

RN: It's so unrealistic that it's almost not even worth discussing. I find it laughable. Also, in the context of the investments we have made in Lodenfrey in the past three years, I am well versed in the future of the multi-brand retail profiled. In my opinion, multi-brand retail even has the opportunity to grow successfully through profiling and differentia-

tion in the coming years.

SH: Despite my obvious opinion of such studies, I also have to to say that in the past 20 years in our industry, we have seen a huge redistribution of sales figures. And this was primarily at the expense of the specialist trade. What is your strategy to combat such a prediction? Why are stores like Lodenfrey essential for the so-called consumer 2.0?

MH: You're right, the market has changed. And the specialist trade has to meet much higher requirements, by means of brand stores on site among other things. Brand stores are now doing a much better job than they have for years. Despite this, I believe that multi-brand retail is still incredibly interesting for the end consumer. If the customer shops specifically, then, of course, he will find the one dimensional offers in mono-label stores good, but it's still more exciting to go into a well-run store and be seduced by the complete product range, the whole depth and range of what's on offer. And indeed presented in a well chosen preselection, as we do it. I am absolutely convinced of this. RN: It's about being able to offer the customer the opportunity to inform themselves in a manageable space, to let them see what Lodenfery has selected or what is cool at the moment. That has to

"Lodenfrey is a safe bet. This isn't only an issue of purchasing, choosing the appropriate products, it's also about the service." Ralph-Michael Nagel

113 style in progress


www.marlino. de

Alda is wearing pArkA StArlet


086 LONGVIEW

"Being able to inform yourself within a manageable space at a multibrand retailer has to be more appealing than a mono-label store, and has to remain so." Ralph-Michael Nagel

oped a private label collection which we now run at Lodenfrey. And we will soon bring Off & Co from Schwabing into the city centre because we believe in the concept. RN: With Off & Co, we attract a completely different type of customer to those we attract with Lodenfrey. At the same time we also have the effects of synergies between both stores. Completely different things are possible in the product range at Off & Co, but some results can be carried over to Lodenfrey.

SH: Shortly after this acquisition, Lodenfrey got its own online store. Put directly: do you make a profit from it? I only ask because it would simply surprise me after just two years.

be more appealing than a monolabel store, and has to remain so.

SH: How important is the Excel sheet with the sales figures in the selection of a brand, or when making a decision on whether a brand partner shall remain? How much scope is there in Lodenfrey for "nice to have" brands?

MH: The bottom line is that the numbers have to add up. Naturally, we keep a very close eye on this. However, I believe it is one of the ways that we stand out most markedly from our competitors, with this "nice to have" culture, we give opportunities to brands that don't appear in all stores. People know that these don't bring in the big numbers, but give prestige. And it's cool to have them. RN: Yes, so Tom Ford is now part of the men's section. "I am convinced that our concept is tailor made for Munich." Markus Hรถhn

SH: As we are speaking about high fashion: in 2008, Lodenfrey took over Off & Co, a topclass designer fashion store in a very difficult phase. Are you happy with its development?

MH: The initial situation was definitely as you described but we didn't provide any support back then. For us, Off & Co should be seen as a small outpost for trend scouting, a sort of experimental laboratory, if you like. Since the takeover we have invested a considerable amount, we went online and have devel113 style in progress

MH: Yes. If I take into account that, in the first year that we were represented online, our physical store grew disproportionately. Which we trace back to the fact that we were being perceived differently thanks to our online presence. SH: Does this reap rewards?

MH: Absolutely. And it's actually traceable. Customers who surf online get their bearings online before they buy in the physical store. RN: The possibility of preinformation on the internet is very important, especially for the female target group. MH: This had really huge effects on our store, for many end consumers it's still not clear today exactly what Lodenfrey provides. Its presence online makes that clear. And so this has a huge effect on trade in the physical store. SH: A change of subject. What role do trade fairs play for you today? The function of a trade fair has changed hugely in the past 15 years.

RN: Definitely.

SH: I know you are a very dedicated fair visitor, Mr Hรถhn.

MH: To be honest, it would be strange if I didn't appear at the trade fairs. They are the homework that we need to do, we have to inform ourselves at the fairs about products that we will buy later. Our buyers aim to be skilled points of contact. How could you do that if you didn't inform yourself at the trade fairs? RN: We are represented at


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088 LONGVIEW

Let there be light! The "new" Lodenfrey has a radiantly bright, spacious and light-filled appearance. Without denying its roots.

every trade fair from A to Z, as exhausting as it is, it's our job. MH: Basically, I believe that our channels of procurement in retail have generally improved. Therefore, the discussion about the legitimacy of trade fairs is also justified. However, for me, at least at the moment, a trade fair is irreplaceable. And at the moment we are still speaking about a unique trade fair location, Berlin. Both the Premium and the Bread & Butter are doing an excellent job. And it's ahead of Florence for men's fashion, and as the kick-off event of the season. SH: Do you have any suggestions for improvement, or requests?

MH: Yes, I think that, just like us, like the trade and the industry, the trade fair must also constantly reinvent itself. In these fast-moving times, I always expect fresh momentum from a trade fair.

SH: What momentum? Because Berlin as a trade fair location, has, much faster than expected, become involved in a discussion, which to some extent, I don't find particularly meaningful.

MH: That's right, Honestly, when I look back at the development of Berlin, I don't completely understand it either. Basically, we now finally have what

we all wanted. We have the most exciting fairs in the most exciting city in Germany, and the fairs are also of international significance. But it's also true that when you speak to the retailers, the mood tends towards a different direction. Karl-Heinz M端ller is currently taking measures to turn this around and always reinvents himself. And that is the right way to do it.

SH: I believe that there is a huge desire in our industry to talk things to death. Often unfairly. Where do you stand on the current discussion on the Berlin trade fairs?

MH: For Lodenfrey, we tend more often to find the product range that we display in our store at the Premium. There, we have the opportunity to speak directly with 70 percent of our brands and to get a sense of the collection. That's why it's our trade fair. But that's not meant as a value judgement. We simply don't serve the jeans market. In this respect, we are naturally more interested in the Premium. Having said that, and this is thanks to M端ller, we still attend the Bread & Butter. Because we see it as a trade fair for inspiration. Mr M端ller, like Mr Tillmann, has understood the commercial considerations of a trade fair and both made the mistake that they commercialised

too heavily and they no longer worked out their actual main area of expertise clearly enough. Karl-Heinz M端ller is the first to now correct the mistake that he made, and I think that's good news.

SH: That's the good news. However, I see a problem there, that the trade fair that advertises the location internationally, that shows a lot of commitment and is organised to the best standards is only seen as a platform of inspiration.

MH: I have great respect for how the Bread & Butter performs as a whole. But, as I said, it naturally has to continue to live up to its own standards and to continue to re-invent itself. We also have to do this. SH: With what requirements are the buyers sent to trade fairs?

MH: Our buyers' task is to always find something special. As Lodenfrey, we need to stand out, from our national competitors too. And we have to design our product ranges in such an exciting way that we can always show our customers that we are on the lookout for very special things. And that along with Armani, we also source smaller brands. That can sometimes just be a unique shoe or a special bag. They are the icing on the cake of the product range. We find it in Paris or in Milan and then we try it out. SH: The bottom line is that the trade fair is essential for Lodenfrey?

RN: Essential. MH: Absolutely. For an informal overview and for a personal impression. But also for direct communication with the industry. SH: A nice conclusion. Thank you for speaking to us!

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090 WHAT'S THE STORY

The price is right! When discussing the order, markup and special conditions play a big role. Today more than ever.

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WHAT'S THE STORY 091

Gooddeals Sales drives and discounted prices inevitably cause higher mark-downs. This calls for retail market to make higher mark-ups in the order. How do the brands deal with these demands, what does the manufacturer come up with to improve conditions for the retailer? Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Illustration: Andrea Kizmanich

At first, it looked like a big, fat minus. Or at least, that was what Marcus Bässler was expecting for the sportswear jacket manufacturer Hetregó for the 2011 summer season. But he had worked with Hetregó to put together a special offer for retailers: A programme of young, fashionably-commercial down jackets called 90/10 at a markup of 3 with a minimum order of 60 units. This was well received by the retail market, so well in fact, that a few even followed suit with merchandise because supply and demand fitted together so perfectly. "Instead of having a 30 per cent minus at the end of the season, we had a 28 per cent plus", says Marcus Bässler, owner of the Düsseldorf agency of the same name. "That was an absolute eye opener." Buffer Wanted

But markup and special conditions aren't just topic of today in terms of orders. But it is especially important today. Retailers demands have risen - proportionately to the demands placed upon them. Shop rental, merchandise and staff costs are just the tip of the iceberg. A good retailer has regular customers with certain expectations, he must offer a special service and has, perhaps, even established a second online income so that he can meet the expectations in this area accordingly. Plus, there are the short sales periods when the full sale price can be attained before the

next wave of price reductions start again. Furthermore, market conditions themselves are changing rapidly. Big names, that were fast-sellers in the retail market two years ago, don't reach the desired targets nowadays, instead sales are spread over several small collections. This has the result that overall business has become more unpredictable. "Many retailers are convinced that markup in the high-quality sportswear segment needs to be at least 2.7 so that they still have a buffer", says Marcus Bässler. Because there is a great danger that merchandise will be left hanging on the rail at a later date. Especially given the minimum quantities, common practice with many manufacturers. "It makes no sense for a retailer in Hinterupfingen to order merchandise for 10,000 euros, if he already suspects that he is only going to get 7,000 euros coming through the door", says Bässler. "You then need an excellent markup in order to still earn anything." Early Bird

Getting a volume discount again on larger orders, is mainly a matter for the big dealers. "For many retailers nowadays, it's all just about conditions and higher margins, too little attention is paid to the selection of the collections in the process", this is the impression Florian Ranft from Komet und Helden has, his agency distributes brands such as style in progress 113


092 WHAT'S THE STORY

Woolrich, Blauer USA and Superdry. Practically every supplier gives discounts, volume discounts are only discussed with bigger buying amounts, of course. Different rules apply for dealers who don't want or aren't able to take on such large quantities. The tendency here being, the dealer wants to keep his risk as small as possible. And the manufacturer clearly wants advance payments for this. Companies such as Mac Mode offer six pre-order collections with 22 delivery dates and there is a strong NoS programme. "The dealer doesn't need to make massive pre-orders, he can simply follow it up", says Eveline Schönleber, Managing Partner of Mac Mode. "When a theme is due, whether it's a colour or a style, we issue it as a "Best of" again. Customers have become considerably more interested in this." Stefan Reiter, Managing Director of Q1, a small fashionable shirt manufacturer, is also structuring with NoS more. "In the past, it was easier for us to sell basics, even in the pre-order collection, as plain coloured shirts that we also carry in our

Eveline Schönleber, Managing Partner of Mac Mode: "It's not entry margin that's important, it's the markup generated afterwards. So, it's about keeping markdowns as low as possible and we can do this with an outstanding product."

NoS programme. Instead, we have shifted to offering more fashionable designs in NoS so that we can relieve the pre-order limits." A service for the dealers - and figures that make sense to the entrepreneur. "Practically no other competitor in this segment offers so much fashion in the NoS programme", says Reiter. "Our success proves us right, we have shown a 15 per cent increase every year." Mason's customers benefit from a kind of early bird discount. "Things for us are moving increasingly more towards precollection", says Ben Botas who runs the 113 style in progress

Marcus Bässler, owner of the Bässler agency: "The markup is really just a springboard, it's the overall package that counts: Reliable product quality, delivery date, solution-oriented service and how the product is distributed on the market."

label with his Ben-and agency on the German market. "Because, those who order the pre-collection in November, December, for example, for delivery in May, June, get a further ten per cent discount and improve their overall markup from 2.7 to 2.9 up to 3.0." So, the proverbial early bird is rewarded with a higher profit margin. The producer benefits as well: Through the early order he is better able to plan and schedule - and can already estimate what direction the main collection will be heading in. At the same time, Mason's own production plants benefit as they make the company more flexible. This is why instead of having NoS, Mason's also

has a lot of fast fashion merchandise. Last autumn, for example, cord and gaberdine trousers in mustard, green and petrol shades were in demand. "That was very successful", says Ben Botas. "But, to make sure that such investments don't miss their targets, we keep in very close contact with the trade. As a result we are close to the need and are able to respond quickly." Margin-Waiving Dealers

Customers of Closed also appreciate more collections during the year, each with a collection per season. Spring and autumn are also important for new models and fabrics,

Florian Ranft, owner of the Komet und Helden agency: "The real problem is the high mark-downs. If, in the end, half the collection is markeddown by 30 or even 50 per cent, a mark-up of 3 is meaningless."

so that the dealers can recognise the fast sellers at an early stage and follow suit accordingly. In future, though, Closed will be varying these fast sellers, for example, with new washes or colours. "At this point, we are moving a little away from the pure re-order system, we are more pro-active than simply retro-active", says Til Nadler, Managing Director of Sales. "This underlines our fashionable expertise and the dealer has a fresh image in his store again. We also guarantee this with our six delivery dates a year." Markup also plays a role in the order process here too. "We feel the dealer's pressure and need to deal with it", says Til Nadler. "We increased entry markup by half a point a year ago for this reason, so as to create new impulses and to deliver a good markup for the entire collection." At the same time, however, retail price in the sensitive marketplace should still remain at the same level so that the merchandise doesn't have a slower turnover. This means manufacturers waiving their margins. But how can you compensate this


094 WHAT'S THE STORY

Til Nadler, Managing Director of distribution at Closed GmbH: "Continuity in product quality and delivery cycles makes us a reliable partner, this is a key argument in times of crisis."

margin-waiving? Those who need a greater profit margin, need to sell more. In the case of Closed, this means stronger expansion abroad where the brand has been very successful. And not to save money on the product, the strategic decision made by the Closed makers. "We rely 60 per cent on our two main producers in Europe, one of then is our denim specialist in Italy who's been working for Closed since we established the brand in 1979", says Til Nadler. "It is expensive, but it pays off in terms of quality. We also remain a dependable partner with these suppliers; it's important that delivery dates are met. Continuity in product quality and delivery cycles makes us a reliable partner. Building on quality is also Eveline Schön­ leber's concept for Mac Mode. "It is basically very simple: We make a product that sells really well, because the generated markup is ultimately more important than the entry markup", says the Managing Partner of the trouser specialists. "It stands and falls with the right product. In addition, there's the service." On this point, demands from manufacturers and suppliers have also become disproportionately greater. In the case of Mac, this support can take the form of a small special programme that includes decoration material, and can be supplied to

Stefan Reiter Managing Director of Q1 Manufaktur GmbH: "NoS is 90 per cent resistant to markdowns. A basic piece doesn't have a season. So, we have the best figures of all with NoS.

the top 100 customers in the middle of the season. Without tying up the dealer's liquidity, whereby unsold trousers can be returned. This could be a dedicated window for George Gina & Lucy customers, a sales drive in the 113 style in progress

Ben Botas, owner of the Agentur Ben And GmbH agency: "Service, reliability and speed, these are the key points that matter in retail today. But you can't just have all the risk on one side though. The ratio needs to be based on partnership."

display window for customers, an initiation jointly conducted by Marcus Bässler with the manufacturer. "The measures can be individually tailored, they need to be suitable for branding and the position of the dealer and need to be worth it for both sides", says Bässler, emphasising the point. "The exact conditions are then agreed as partners." Support for retail's day-to-day business also comes into play and is now a full-time job. It's not for nothing that distribution agencies such as Komet und Helden have invested in a well-organised customer service designed to create closer links with dealers. For example, merchandise exchange or offering a good warehousing service, ultimately in order to optimise sales quotas in the retail market. Chicken and the Egg

A good product with a good markup has the best opportunities. But is it really right to start with the markup? "It's not the markup that's the real problem, it's down to having

mark-downs that are too high", says Florian Ranft on the subject. "If, in the end, almost half the collection is marked-down by 30 or even 50 per cent, a markup of 3 is meaningless." But it is extremely difficult to turn the clock back on the extremely early and high price reductions in the retail market. "We have merchandise that is only out on the floor for four to six weeks before it's reduced", says Florian Ranft. So, the pieces have no chance of being sold in a normal way. The demand for early delivery is growing all the more. The problem is even bigger in the summer because the sales period is much shorter." If you want to survive in retail today, you have to be an expert - and concentrate. "Dealers should customise their orders a little more and try to stand out from their competitors in this way", says Florian Ranft. "It's probably no bad thing to have a little room for manoeuvre with re-orders. A lot of retailers can't react to trends quickly during the season because they've already spent 100 per cent of their budget in the pre-order." Because they don't want to rely on remaining warehouse stock. Marcus Bässler knows that the retail market's first priority is security. "It's become very difficult nowadays for a dealer to choose exactly the right thing. But does he really have to offer everything? There are some very successful high-class sportswear retailers nowadays; but they also have to consider very carefully what they buy. Nowadays, you need to be extremely professional as a dealer, you need to have great merchandise management and sure instincts - and be consistent." In this instance, less is sometimes more. "If there was a little too little at the end of the season, then that's exactly right", says Florian Ranft. Of course, it's good for the retailer if he's sold ten more jackets. But perhaps it also does him good to send away the customer who has come too late again. The implied message here is that he should buy earlier in the season next time.


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096 WHAT'S THE STORY

The desertion of the Italian luxury manufacturer: In Swiss Tessin taxes aren´t the only thing that is considerably lower. Exceptionally trained professionals, often Italians who commute across the border, are another attraction.

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WHAT'S THE STORY 097

Made in Italy d n a l r e Switz Italian Luxury Houses Move into "Fashion Valley"

One of the reasons why the Italian luxury industry has come through the euro and financial crises relatively unscathed is down to relocation into the Swiss canton of Ticino. More and more fashion houses are shifting production or administration and logistics to Ticino and taking advantage of the lower taxes there. This pioneering trend was started by the prestigious tailor Ermenegildo Zegna. Text: Thesy Kness-Bastaroli. Photos: Sakis Lallas

Mendrisio, canton Ticino. 7.41 a.m.. Signora Paola and her friend climb out of the local train connecting the Italian border town of Como with Mendrisio and Lugano in Ticino. Paola has been working for the prestigious tailor Zegna in Mendrisio for five years. Her friend Clara is employed by Giorgio Armani in Mendrisio. The Italian fashion industry has invested around 40 million euros in Ticino in the last few years. Nearly all the staff employed by the eight fashion designers who have built their factories in the canton of Ticino in the south of Switzerland are Italian. Because the textile districts from Como (silk weavers) and Busto Arsizio (fabrics) are in crisis. Thousands of workers have been let go. In Ticino, they found their new El Dorado. "It's great living in Italy and working in Switzerland", Paola says happily. Because wages are higher and taxes are lower. "The Only Risk Is the Currency"

"The only risk lies with the currency, the strong Swiss Francs", says the CEO of the men's fashion company Ermenegildo Zegna, Gildo Zegna. The weaker the euro, the more expensive production is in Switzerland. But this doesn't really make a style in progress 113


098 WHAT'S THE STORY

difference to the bottom line. Because the tax advantages are remarkable. In Italy, companies must pay up to 50 per cent tax to the treasury in Rome, top figure in Switzerland is 25 per cent. Switzerland also has logistic benefits, too. Transport and administration costs are lower, infrastructures such as the Gotthard train tunnel or even the Malpensa airport in Milan are barely 40 kilometres from Mendrisio. Leaving aside the fact that fuel prices and motorway toll charges are lower than in Italy, even rail freight transport is better developed. In short, Zegna wants to continue expanding production in Ticino. To just what extent the new fashion valley in the south of Switzerland will rival the fashion capital of Milan will be revealed in the next few years. Mario Boselli, president of the Milan Fashion Chamber, appears relaxed about it. "There is no danger of a decline in Milan's importance as a fashion centre", he attempts to play down the issue. What is apparent though is that Swiss Ticino has advantages that don't exist in Italy. Gucci Is Investing 40 Million Euros into the South of Switzerland

The Florentine fashion house Gucci is currently investing 40 million euros in a logistics centre at the northern tip of Lago Maggiore in the Ticino village of Sant

Antonino. Work started the previous summer, completion of the centre covering 320,000 square metres is projected for mid-2013. More than a hundred new jobs will be created here. Asian and American Gucci boutiques as well as customers in Europe and overseas will be served from here. For Gucci, it isn't all about shipping. "A further focus is production control", says a management spokesman. "Ticino is located in the heart of Europe and provides the best conditions for efficient transportation by rail, road and, with the Milan-Malpensa hub nearby, by air, too". A host of other Italian and international fashion houses have also settled here. The Milan fashion czar Giorgio Armani opened his new commercial centre in Mendrisio, on the former industrial site of the Solsi company. The company's entire global activities in the clothing and accessory sectors will be coordinated from there by Borgo 21, the company founded for this purpose. Hugo Boss Ticino has built its new competence centre less than 10 kilometres away from Mendrisio, in Coldrerio. Marzotto, the Italian textile giant, is a major stockholder in Boss. The building designed by architect Matteo Thun is a prime example of modern industrial architecture. This is the most important offshoot of the headquarters in Metzlingen, Swabia. Besides production, the competence centre has a 400-strong team whose activities also include development and management. Personalised Suits Are Experiencing a Boom at Zegna

One of the pioneers of the Italian fashion houses in Ticino is without a doubt Ermenegildo

" After the Italians brought their capital into Switzerland, they are now beginning to outsource production and logistics there." Mario Boselli. President of the Fashion Chamber

Zegna. The founder's grandson and present CEO of the fashion label with its 7,000 employees, already built a factory in Switzerland 20 years ago. Men's coats and jackets along with tailored men's suits were made in the two production plants. "A market niche which is experiencing a boom", says Gildo Zegna. This is how the company boss reports the growing importance of the Chinese market and its predilection for tailored suits. "It's the Chinese customers providing the stimulus. On average, they are ten years younger than our European customers and are, therefore, demanding a young style". Zegna's recipe for success is in contrast to the standard recipe of all advisers: The fashion makers do everything themselves - from purchasing raw materials to fabric production over to design and sales of the finished collections.

"We export 90 per cent of our revenue, 70 per cent of this in non-European countries. Therefore, we feel well armed for any euro crisis." Gildo Zegna, CEO Ermenegildo Zegna

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In Mendrisio, Hand-Crafted Is Written in Capital Letters

In addition to designing the patterns for the tailored suits, the production plant in Mendrisio is also responsible for cutting the models. Numerous details are still sewn by hand here. Quality control is rigorous. This is also the reason why fashion labels such as Tom Ford, Gucci and Versace have their men's suits made at Zegna's in Mendrisio. Other fashion companies like Guess or The North Face have also created a site in the south of Switzerland. "Bureaucracy isn't a brake here, instead it helps companies, legal processes aren't an odyssey as they are in Italy and there is great reservoir of manpower", says Franco Cavadini, President of Ticino's fashion association "Ticino Moda" as he explains the new phenomenon. But it isn't only lower taxes and less bureaucracy. "We took inspiration from the Italians as to how an industrial district functions and have created a "Fashion Valley" in Ticino." Cavadini points out other advantages: Since Switzerland isn't part of the EU, clothing made for the Italian label and imported from Asia is not subject to duty. There are a total of 4,000 workers employed in the new Ticino Fashion Valley with an annual turnover of 10 billion euros.


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100 WHAT'S THE STORY

A Life for the Company How visionary fashion companies are already adjusting to demographic change and not just offering employees a job, but a home too. Text: Sonja Ragaller. Photos: Drykorn, Gerry Weber, Lodenfrey, Parajumpers, Pinko

It hasn't quite got as far as the astronomical transfer fees paid for footballers yet. But owing to the demographic change, people are noticing that good team players in the fashion industry are slowly becoming a rare commodity. Industry and trade are increasingly having to make great efforts to get and keep hold of qualified, reliable staff. Nirvana for workers? Not by a long chalk, especially since the shortage of skilled workers in fashion isn't nearly as pronounced as in the so-called MINT professions (Maths, IT, Natural Science, Technology). But the tide is beginning to turn. Large, and even some small, companies all with visionary abilities are now increasingly investing in their employees. As a result, there are a number of measures in place at Italian medium-sized business such as Parajumpers or Pinko as well as at Drykorn - for example, attractive offers of further training, Work-Life-Balance measures, childcare facilities or even workplaces with added aesthetic and ergonomic appeal. Environmental Protection as an Expression of Modern Corporate Values

The family-run business Ape & Partners has taken a lot of effort in constructing a new company building in line with environmentally- and employeefriendly criteria in Segusino in the Veneto. The headquarters, which manages premium sportswear label Parajumpers amongst others from here, has become a successful model in terms of environmental protection and sustainability. "We have always held particular values important; good relationships with customers and suppliers, our staff's community ideas and a feel for the environment", says owner and managing director Ermanno Paulon. This appreciation is expressed in the new light-flooded 113 style in progress

building covering an area of 6,000 square metres and which houses 250 members of staff. Top priority in its construction was to waste as little energy as possible by means of new technology. Specially insulated doors,

windows and walls keep thermal losses down, as does sensible use of energy in the building and an efficient heating system. Climate control is regulated by a central computer which monitors 30 different rooms. A solar system


WHAT'S THE STORY 101

Compatibility between family and profession is a top priority at Gerry Weber. "Kidsworld" has just been launched at Gerry Weber. This daycare centre has 95 places, large outdoor facilities and bilingual care.

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102 WHAT'S THE STORY

"The greatest motivation comes when employees are free to make decisions and act for themselves." Marco GĂśtz, CEO Drykorn

catapults the building into the top energy class A - an exception in Italy. Lifelong relationships have become a rarity, both in private life and the workplace. Open communication and a comfortable environment are key aspects for an intact relationship. Pinko, the premium Italian label, also backs this by following the concept of a "green factory" with its new company headquarters. The courtyard lies at its centre, which is typical for the Emilia Romagna region. All the offices and production halls are grouped around it. Exchange and interaction are promoted in order to create teamwork and synergy effects, according to CEO Pietro Negra: "An open working environment is extremely important to me. I regularly ask my staff to be proactive and make suggestions on improvements or further progress that affects the whole business process." Nestling

in the broad expanse of the Mediterranean landscape, the new building promotes vision and influences staff creativity, which is the architect Guido Canali's goal. Ecological sophistication can be seen in the planted roof terrace which acts as a thermal filter, regulating the climatic conditions inside the building in both winter and summer. Not only does it look pretty, it also has an important role to play in leaving the smallest possible CO2 footprint behind. The Way to a Man's heart Is Through his Stomach

Bad food in Italy? A sacrilege, yet it is usually price before quality that provides the rationale in German canteens. During the course of renovations on the Munich trading company Lodenfrey, emphasis was placed on physical well-being - not that of the customers, but that of the staff. Personnel are able to eat healthy

Lodenfrey is investing in the physical well-being of its staff with an organic-certified canteen.

113 style in progress

food in the new organic-certified staff canteen. Money well spent say management. Adidas has long had the physical well-being of its staff in mind. In Herzogenaurach, at the headquarters of the sports article manufacturers where nearly 3,500 people are employed, the campus-like grounds has a variety of sports facilities on offer which can even be used by staff during working hours. Work-Life-Balance is in the foreground. Flexible working hours in the form of part-time and job sharing models see to this, as does prevention training against Burnout Syndrome and the offer of sabbaticals. The Potential of Women

Adidas has also recognised the potential of women. In 2012, the cornerstone for a new childcare facility was laid in Herzog­ enaurach and is to offer 110 care places by the end of 2013. The facility replaces or supplements the so-called Parent-ChildOffices, offices with play areas, nursing rooms and conference rooms that young mothers are able to use today. "These measures are our response to the scarcity of skilled workers, even if we are not as affectedly this as the automotive industry, for example", says company spokesperson Simone Lendzian, "But demographic change is out there and we know that we have to do something. We recruit on an international scale, which is why it is so important to be an attractive employer." This has long been an accepted practice in other industries and


104 WHAT'S THE STORY

With a new firm headquarters, Pinko is pursuing the “green factory” concept.

"An open working environment is extremely important to me." Pietro Negra, CEO Pinko

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large companies such as Siemens and is standard in Scandinavia, the fashion industry is now moving in a similar vein in Germany too. "Kidsworld" has just been launched at Gerry Weber. This daycare centre has 95 places, large outdoor facilities and bilingual care in close proximity to the company headquarters in Halle. "Around 80 percent of our 1,000 strong workforce in the corporate headquarters are women", says Gerhard Weber, Chairman and CEO of Gerry Weber International AG, "With our daycare facility we are sending a clear signal to improved compatibility between family and profession." Drykorn in the Lower Franconian town of Kitzingen is also an example of how even smaller investment measures can lead to lower staff turnover and higher motivation amongst employees. "My mission statement has always been the welfare of my employees. Achieving this isn't always just a question of money, we do this by integrating them into decision-making processes", says CEO Marco Götz. Drykorn trained and developed most of its employees itself, many have been with the firm from its onset and strongly identify with the fashion company. "The greatest motivation comes when employees are

free to make decisions and act for themselves. That has much more value than anything else", says Götz. This only works because of clear structures, he says modestly about the now 120-strong company. He walks through the departments on a daily basis, talking to his staff, exchanging ideas and in this way remains involved in work processes. An elaborate but obviously effective style of leadership which he enhances further with community activities such as summer and Christmas parties and trips out together. One trip that everybody in the company was allowed to go on was to the fashion fair in Berlin. "You have to fill the abstract with images. That is great motivation for the employees who normally don't get around as much", says Götz. A train ticket to Berlin, a sympathetic word in everyday life - these are the little things that can create the strongest company

bond in his opinion. So, in this respect he is relaxed about the future. Other large companies in the vicinity have to put in more effort in attracting qualified staff to remote locations. Efforts towards a positive corporate culture are exactly that: Socially or strategically motivated measures, by investing in the human factor, staff and company benefit alike.

Gerry Weber is promoting compatibility between family and profession with a new, large kindergarten.


www.impressionen.de

Berlin PREMIUM 15.01. – 17.01.2013

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Paris TRANOI PREVIEW 19.01. – 21.01.2013

www.iqplusberlin.com

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Copenhagen VISION 31.01. – 02.02.2013


106 WHAT'S THE STORY

Cut-throat competition: The online market is like a shark's tank with its own laws.

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WHAT'S THE STORY 107

Online ? A

narchy

The subject of exclusivity for top quality brands is already a thorny one in the bricksand-mortar retail trade. But the dynamics online are a different matter altogether, one that turns all the previously valid principles right on their heads. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Illustrations: Andrea Krizmanich

At the launch of his online shop, Karl Reyer had a massive stroke of good luck. He was the first person in Austria granted rights to exclusively sell bags from George Gina & Lucy on the internet. "You could say, that we more or less floated onto the online market", says the premium retailer. "Moncler also gave us great support from the start too. So, we had two strong labels consumers were specifically targeting on the internet." That was three and a half years ago. The market has evolved rapidly since then. Nowadays, exclusively carrying a major label online is not quite so simple for a small retailer. There's likely to be more of a no holds barred attitude to fighting for shares. Store Check

In comparison to the online market, the offline situation appears comparatively simple. The bricks-and-mortar retail trade is all about location, the distance to the next retailer with the same brand and whether the shops are on the same level. All criteria which can't readily be transferred onto the virtual market. "Online is not about what kind of a brand world the labels are being offered in", says Ricardo Meyer, Sales Manager of the CP Fashion agency. "Whether Escada is next to G-Star is totally irrelevant, it doesn't interest the consumer. It's more of a 1:1 situation here; every label stands in its own right. From the supplier's side, presentation still plays an extremely important role in this. "We want to have a uniform corporate image", says Robert Stรถckl, Regional Vice President EMEA from Lacoste Footwear. "We are working with our heritage and through our images and appropriate supplementary information would like for this to come over online." Similarly, the Lacoste sales office also checks whether the online shop fits in line with the brand. This is done by evaluating the first impressions and the appearance as a whole, such as payment options or how returns are handled. And, of course, how many clicks it takes to get to the product and where the shop appears in the search engine rankings. Robert Stรถckl: "Different criteria apply online to those offline, something we had to learn first." Breaking New Ground

The online market is still unchartered territory for many. "Most labels, no matter what genre, dealt with this topic too little and not nearly early enough", criticises Ricardo Meyer. "Many regard the internet as a genuine evil, whereas the online business is only another sales channel and needs its own strategy." Brunello Cucinelli is a late starter in the online business but this was of his own choosing. The Italian company only started its own online shop a year and a half ago and doesn't supply pure players in the internet, only very selected bricks and clicks, in other words, bricks-and-mortar retailers with online shops, such as Neimanmarcus.com and Saks.com. "As a luxury brand, we wanted to preserve our exclusivity", says Fabio Gnocchi, CCO Brunello Cucinelli. "We prefer to have style in progress 113


108 WHAT'S THE STORY

Thos e who th keyw e internet feed ords will c with a the fi tch sh.

Fabio Gnocchi, CCO Brunello Cucinelli: "Geographical limitations don't apply to the internet, however, our strategy is based on limiting distribution of our products as much as possible. We prefer having products that are not easy to find, just as we do in the offline market."

products that are not so easy to find, exactly as we have in the offline market." Others definitely prefer to be found but, if possible, don't want to be over-distributed. An interest that many retailers share with their brand names. Which is why the announcement by Peek & Cloppenburg KG DĂźsseldorf that they were putting their entire product range online this year caused such a furore. Hence, with brand names that are certainly not just available from one (online) supplier. "I don't understand all this fuss", says Ricardo Meyer. "I don't think that a label is burned by too much of an online presence. We are living in a multi-channel world; online is becoming increasingly more important. Yes, it's true that half the customers in the luxury genre go online looking for information but they still go to their local store to buy. A bricksand-mortar retailer has great advantages he can use: his unerring sense of style in buying, service and advice. No online shop can offer that." But e-commerce manager Wolfgang Jacks for Jades24.com knows that an online shop also has to find its profile and its own fans. "The website should be well designed and provide a good surfing experience. This means, be technically simple and not have so much unfocused entertainment around it to detract the customer's own focus. It is supposed to be about buying fashion and not about booking a trip next summer." The Big Players' Game

Online trading doesn't do offline business any favours. Sales on the web indisputably take shares away from the bricks-and-mortar trade. Which leads the bricks-and-mortar retailer to also take his product range online. Which, again, exacerbates the supposed problem of lack of brand exclusivity even further. "If a top level brand name supplies five retailers in Austria and each of them opens an online shop, suddenly there are ten of them, so there is a very real danger that brand desire will be lost", says Karl Reyer. "The brand itself has great respect for this, and we as retailers, too. So, many brand names block this as they can't assess where 113 style in progress

X

this development is going. A lot of them first look at the online shops, how they are developing, what their appearance and service culture is like. But even if a retailer has been operating a serious business for many years like ourselves, we still hear that yes, you can put the brand online but you may only sell it in Austria. But that is hardly the purpose of the World Wide Web. The rules of the game should apply to everybody in this." But it's the big players who determine the game rules. Those who can purchase large quantities also like to acquire exclusive rights and certainly flex their muscles in the cutthroat competition. After all, he has a strong interest in selling his products again, so that his investment also pays off. "Only the big players tinker with online exclusivity", says Karl Reyer. "Exclusivity is still as important as ever for bricks-and-mortar retailers but this starts to fall apart through the online market.

Ricardo Meyer, Sales Manager of the CP Fashion agency: "There isn't really exclusivity for brand names anymore, if I want to have exclusivity, then I have a problem. But a brand name must have this under control and have a clear strategy.

The Real Problem of Online Exclusivity

Anybody wanting to be found on the internet needs to adapt to the new mechanisms. It isn't a question of the coolest trader with

Robert StĂśckl, Regional Vice President EMEA Lacoste Footwear: "Consumer loyalty can't really be built up online. The key factor with online shopping is only whether the shop has the product at the right price and whether it can be delivered quickly. Online shopping doesn't involve loyalty."

the best reputation. The virtual market has a completely different dynamic and anybody who wants to win here must prioritise speed, dexterity and a solid, in-depth expertise so that nobody else snatches up his victory. This is the only way to control real brand name presence on the web - and, therefore, exclusivity too. Money needs to be invested in this, both for the know-how as well as for the often immense marketing costs. Google AdWords, for example, works according to a bidding procedure, similar to the stock exchange. This is definitely worthwhile for one label that isn't quite so well-known and bidding against perhaps two or three others in a fair competition. But putting yourself at the top of the ranks of the search engine's paid ads and being found quickly by users becomes more expensive the more people bidding for a term or a brand name. For example, if a brand is only with Stylebop.com at the beginning and it takes off in the coming season so that at the end it can be found in ten or twelve online shops, the marketing costs per conversion can rise so sharply that there isn't nearly enough of a margin at the


Photo by Irene Schaur


110 WHAT'S THE STORY

finish up. "We have to march to Google's beat", says Wolfgang Jacks. "We need to be really good to be able to compete in this area, which is we have have just recently changed our online marketing agency." Because any kind of a faux pas can lead to a product not selling very well for a few days because the competitor was given better advice or invested more money. "If I'm starting off paying 20 cents per click and this then increases to one euro, I have to compare this to what kind of a conversion I have", says Wolfgang Jacks. "So, if I'm spending 1,000 euros for Ugg Boots in marketing but only selling five pairs, it's not worth it any more." SEO, Search Engine Optimisation, for example, provides an alternative. What is meant here is skilfully feeding the internet with keywords, Wolfgang Jacks, E-Commerce Manager Jades 24 GmbH: "Generally, it's suppliers who suggest the markup and, generally, everybody sticks to it. Price comparisons on the internet are child's play, online shopping is very sensitive to this.

contexts and descriptions in order to quickly be found outside the paid advertising sector. "Many seekers feel this is a more honest method", says Wolfgang Jacks. "But you have to be present on a number of different levels. I like to compare online events to a shopping mall where I have to position my decorations and PR measures so that I can also be found. The laws are different, the means are different but the principle is very much the same. Expand the Field

Claims for exclusivity on the web is a luxury that can no longer be afforded, this applies as much to online shops as brand names. If a brand name has grown to a certain extent, then they must protect their status. Which means, expanding the field and supplying larger traders but without losing sight of corporate identity. "There are really only a few online dealers we consider interesting, we concentrate on those and don't want to be represented by everybody", says Robert Stรถckl. So as well as their own online shop, Lacoste Footwear are also with Frontline, Asos from England and Brandos from Sweden as well as with others, such as Zalando. "Competence in terms of logistics, service and the refreshing advertising have persuaded us", says Robert Stรถckl. And it is all about

x

who Anybody win to ts n a w ust online, m speed, prioritise and dexterity epth solid, in-d. expertisee Otherwis y else somebod h up will snatc . his victory

113 style in progress

Karl Reyer, owner Reyer Sport & Mode and Reyerlooks.com: "Many believe that if you open an online shop, the whole world will come and shop with you. But no matter how amazing this might be, it still doesn't mean that it'll be found.

numbers. "As an established company, every brand name has a certain volume concept and can't just deck themselves out with a name and have a bottom line of just 5,000 euros", says Wolfgang Jacks. "That would hardly be profitable for an online shop, either." Instead, the brand name must also look out for partners with a view to developing. In the end, personal ties still matter. Karl Reyer estimates that in future, apart from a few big players, business on the internet will be more clearly regionalised. If nothing else because small retailers don't have the budget for the volume or marketing that the big players have and he's better off focusing on his niche. "So, as a retailer I build up my client base according to my latitude", says Reyer. "In the process, smaller retailers benefit when so many consumers are fed up of scrolling through 17 pages of coats from an anonymous major online dealer. He'd rather go straight to his shop, where he likes the product range. Appeal also plays an often underestimated role in online retailing." This also applies to the partnership of brand and online trade. "It's not an anarchy, it's not just about pure sales, more a collaborative give and take", says Ricardo to emphasis his point. So, online and offline can work side by side, following traditional rules. It's just that the old rules no longer apply to brand exclusivity.


Walter Moser GmbH, Industriegebiet 2, 4863 Seewalchen, Austria Tel. +43/7662/3175-0, Fax. +43/7662/2797, www.airfield.ccwww.airfield-onlineshop.com


112 WHAT‘S THE STORY

Mario Eimuth, managing partner of Stylebop. com: "The luxury segment primarily works through restrictions in sales and marketing. Something is only exclusive if it can't be found everywhere."

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WHAT'S THE STORY 113

"Territorial Protection Isn't Possible on the Internet" Online marketing is developing at a rapid pace, keeping it under control at the same time is difficult. In our interview, Stylebop founder Mario Eimuth explains the problem with online exclusivity in the luxury segment. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photo: Stylebop

it happening in the US five years ago: A lot of boutiques looked for salvation in e-commerce but greatly underestimated just how much of an investment was involved. In the finish up, only a few big players were left. The same thing is happening in the European market. What should be done to keep being a part of this?

It's easier to define the scope of territorial protection for brand names in the bricksand-mortar retail sector. Would you say that the online market is a lawless area in contrast to this?

Yes and no. However, as a sales channel, the online market has significantly grown over the last few years, which has led to increased limitation of the brand portfolio. Nowadays, the norm is for designers to put strict, individual rules In place, to protect the brand.

So, would you say that the rules of the game are being dictated more on the brand-name side compared to in the past?

Definitely. Most of them aren't interested in an oversupply. At the same time, the internet market is difficult to manage.

Yes, sales promotions on the internet are becoming a regular occurrence as a means of optimising cash flow, even with the established bricks-and-mortar retailers. Brand DNA can quickly become damaged doing this. As a result, the brand-name side dictates the rules up front and controls them a lot more rigorously. Falling prices and loss of desirability isn't in anybody's interest. Even large online shops are setting down rules. They say yes to the brand but want to have exclusivity in carrying them.

You can't keep brand exclusivity in the online market, especially as there are always items on offer from other countries. It's not possible to have territorial protection on the web as you do in the bricks-and-mortar retail trade. It is still being called for a lot, though. When is exclusivity important for Stylebop?

At market launch, so that we can place new labels correctly from the start. Of course, the suppliers' reward us for the pioneering role we play in this, so that the problem of failing to keep in line with exclusivity doesn't come up as such. But, even in e-commerce, the number of providers is growing. We observed

Online shops need to measure up to certain parameters - visual presentation, technical reliability and accuracy as well as high standards of professional service. Something, Amazon invests very large sums in, every year. Customers who are used to a high level of service and quality are not going to be satisfied with lower standards. As a market leader in the fashion luxury segment in continental Europe, we are aware of the responsibility that the brand presence brings with it in terms of its broad reach. Every year, we invest a seven-figure sum in technical innovations and further development of Stylebop. com. Luxury brands expect partners to be on an equal footing. The principle of the WorldWideWeb exacerbates international competition. Is this an issue for you?

International competitors are always an issue for us. We make 50 per cent of our turnover abroad, not just in Europe but also in America, Asia and Australia. Prices are very similar there.

Anyway. One of the internet's greatest achievements is its price transparency. At one time, retailers used to be able to offer brands in his town at a ten, 20 per cent higher price than in other towns. You can't do that now­ adays, though. So, I can also get my premium jeans cheaper from American than I can from Stylebop.

As a basic rule, brands imported into Europe are 20 per cent cheaper on the American market, but you mustn't forget that excise and import tax need to be added to that. If you have to send a pair of trousers back, then, in certain circumstances, you might very well have paid 50, 60 euros for nothing. You had your own store in Munich during the '90s. How can this be transferred into the online business model?

In terms of Stylebop's design approach, for me, it was more about giving consumers a shopping experience similar to a shop's. By showing a 360 degree view of all the products, but this also goes for service too. We didn't just describe the product, we

Trendsetters: Stylebop – The Showroom.

explained how they could be worn and how to combine them. Styling advice, in fact, just as you would get from a salesperson.

In the autumn, the first Stylebop store was opened in Coblenz, others are to follow. Why is a city like Coblenz starting it off?

Because I grew up in this city and I am very familiar with the local set-up. Stylebop - The Showroom is a novel concept, it combines the two shopping channels with one another. This is a landmark launch, it already maps the buying behaviour of the future today. But what can a bricks-and-mortar retailer do that an online shop can't?

Pass a glass of champagne. No, seriously, I mean that as a metaphor. The greatest advantage a bricks-and-mortar retailer has is with intensive customer loyalty, a more direct experience and emotionally. However, they are often little used; many people in the luxury segment have more of an attitude than their customers, which certainly doesn't help in making them feel comfortable in the shop. Thank you for speaking to us!

Mario Eimuth studied philosophy, literature and art before he ran his own concept store Sarajo in Munich from 1997 to 2005. As the first German online provider for luxury fashion, he founded Stylebop.com in 2004 and two years later became managing partner of the Munich-based company which now employs 143 people.

style in progress 113


114 WHAT'S THE STORY

Partner or Competitor? For a long time it was like being in a good family: Specialised trade was the brands' key partner. You fought, you made up, but in the end you relied on one another. But the family bonds are changing - how, can be seen in the denim market best. Text: Ina KĂśhler. Photos: Brands, Yeans Halle Darmstadt

For years, brands and the retail sector were thought to be a solid team in the common struggle against the vertical, against cut-pricing brand values and against fashion discounters. But the balance is shifting: Shrinking specialised trade structures are making the brands rethink - towards e-commerce or their own retail. A lot can be said for the latter: Margins are higher, influence on presentation and image greater, no distracting competition on the shop floor. What does the industry still need the multi-brand retail sector for? Is it a money-maker, fig leaf, trial balloon or perhaps dispensable somehow? What can be achieved via specialised trade - and what can it expect from its brand partners? Observing the denim market gives a particularly good example of this development. While verticalisation in the middle segment is already well advanced, high-quality brands are also catching up with the development. What Do Brands Generally Need Specialised Retailers For?

"Generally speaking, specialised retail trade is our most important instrument", says Pepe Country Manager Raphael Sommer, who 113 style in progress

distributes Pepe Jeans in Switzerland and Austria via the Madison agency. Agencies especially support the close bond between retail and the brand. Sales Manager BjĂśrn Hinrichs from True Religion also confirms this. "The retail trade plays an enormously important role. Personally, I'm not a fan of mono-labels, there's more excitement in a multi-label store. The multi-brand stores are important for our brands, especially in smaller towns." Nevertheless, True Religion is on the lookout for other sites for its own retail. Following shops in Berlin, Cologne, Vienna, DĂźsseldorf and Hamburg, a location opened in Centro Oberhausen in October 2012. Many brands are operating a mix of own stores and specialised retail, G-Star has been running this two-pronged approach for a long time now. "In positioning our brand, own stores and multi-brand stores are both important to us", says Camiel Slaats, Commercial Director of G-Star. He's not alone in this. According to Country Manager Thomas Wirth there would be no problem doubling the number of Replay Stores in Germany, totalling eight so far, even if specialised trade is an essentially important instrument for

Replay, as Wirth points out. The concept of growth in own retail is also something for a brand like Diesel. It's the own-store turnover, currently around 25 %, that should be expanded in this instance. However, specialised trade is a key partner, says Thorsten Link, Germany boss of Diesel: "The idea isn't for us to only operate as a mono-brand in a few years time. Specialised trade is still very important. With the degree of fashion and emotionalism and the broad-based target group that we want to address, having different channels is very important. Small retailers make up more than half the wholesale, a quarter of these are key accounts and a quarter is e-commerce. Here comes a channel shift: The ratio of small businesses, particularly in the structurally weaker areas of Germany, are migrating to the key accounts. These have improved the product range and are very attractive, also in terms of the shopping experience. And large businesses are delivering a neck-and-neck race with the ecommerce segment nowadays." Where Does Retail Stand Today?

In reality, the multi-label specialised trade is still dwindling in Germany - top dogs and


WHAT'S THE STORY 115

A long-lasting, genuine love affair. Denim brands and multi-brand specialised trade. Photo: Yeans Halle Darmstadt.

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116 WHAT'S THE STORY

e-commerce are growing more important in parallel. "If we want to get customers back into the city centres again, we need to create something that motivates them to do so. It's not enough to just hang a few clothes up somewhere - as a brand and retailer, I have to do more", says Thomas Wirth. Medium-sized retailers in small towns or in the suburbs are suffering from the unattractive locations as they only have indirect influence on them. And this leads to internet migration - a vicious circle but a fact that the brands have to face. For example, Diesel has created its own department for e-commerce. Thorsten Link: "The end consumer goes through different channels. Whether a customer shops using an iPad or in a fantastic department store or round the corner - he always aware of the Diesel brand. We want to understand the sales channels more thoroughly and reach out to customers. In e-commerce, we have to have a think differently because this is not something you can measure using the same parameters as bricks-and-mortar trade. Exactly as you discuss sales area partnerships and shop-inshops with bricks-and-mortar customers, we have to transfer the whole thing virtually. The same thing also applies to marketing, for example: Do I invest in key-word marketing or in a brand store? What Does Partnership Mean?

Closer cooperation between trade and industry has been part and parcel of the denim 113 style in progress

For True Religion, opening its own stores represents just one approach to establishing a strong market position in German-speaking countries. The company places great importance on working with retailers.

suppliers' business concept for a number of seasons now. And this doesn't just mean expansion of shop-in-shops. Specialised trade and brands have long been collaborating in the exchange of information - exchange via EDI is already standard in the midmarket segment but still in its infancy in the premium market. Here, it's more about the reorder service and fast availability of fashionable articles. Thomas Wirth von Replay also sees it this way too: "Traditional seasonal trade doesn't exist any more we provide customers with the opportunity to buy fresh goods ten times a year. We want to expand this further. Online trade has become so strong as it can change its visual image quickly. A website can be quickly reprogrammed differently... But specialised trade isn't as flexible - we want to keep on presenting customers with fresh images, with

merchandising, shop-in-shops, partnerships and a regular flow of goods." True Religion also actively works with the customer: "We have six delivery dates a year, so we're at the customers at least every eight weeks", says Bjรถrn Hinrichs. "Distribution needs to have a presence at the PoS and fulfils multiple roles, for example, even merchandising. With larger floor areas, seeing how the brand is being presented is especially important, this supports the image."

The role of distribution has altered through the increased presence: From the order to advice on the product range, from slow-selling management to merchandising. "We have six in-house merchandisers and also work with an agency - we reach all our sales areas at least twice a month", says Thorsten Link. Presence is also essential to Raphael Sommer from the Madison agency who distributes Pepe Jeans: "Having a bond with the sales staff is extremely important - in our distribution sector, all members of staff need to take on a certain amount of responsibility right up to sales in the store. Communication flows down to the staff by means of training courses, salesman also join in. This has a very positive overall impact on sales." Madison also employs a merchandiser too. In the medium term, it is more about sales, of course, but


118 WHAT'S THE STORY

not at any price. "Of course, we also want to grow but we want to stabilise trade which means not expanding something that can no longer be sold", says Thomas Wirth. "We are very keen to ensure our products also flow out. If I'm buying in something today, I must always remember that the customer needs to be able to sell it too. Self-Marketing Helps the Retail Trade

But how else do brands assist the retail trade? One of the key themes is marketing: Our multi-brand accounts are very important for us", says Camiel Slaats, Commercial Director of G-Star. "We help them with the latest brand campaigns in store windows, visual merchandising measures and event management right through to helping with online content. And, ultimately, showrooms are an important instrument for image and branding. Nearly every brand has heavily invested in expanding showrooms in the past few years. The most recent example: The prestigious G-Star head-

quarters in DĂźsseldorf, visually emphasising the brand's power. Appearances at trade fairs are also looked on as an investment in the retail trade. "We will be appearing at the Premium in January again", says BjĂśrn Hinrichs, Sales Manager of True Religion. The event isn't just an image factor for him, it's also important for orders - especially as there isn't a bricks-and-mortar showroom for True Religion in

"In the suburbs, retail trade is losing"

Berlin. "The Premium is a great addition, we actively use it for the pre-collection to the fair. This is our commitment to wholesale: If we weren't looking after the retail sector, we wouldn't be appearing at a trade fair. Showing yourself to be a retail partner is important just now.

What role does partnership with specialised trade play for you? In the autumn, Mavi also opened its own stores in Centro Oberhausen and Hamburg in addition to Leipzig. There are already Mavi stores in Frankfurt, DĂźsseldorf and Berlin. Does the opening of these new stores signal a change of strategy?

No, we've had our own stores for a very long time. We feel it's important to ensure visibility of the brand. For example, we've had our own store in Frankfurt for ten years but we are also in P&C in the Zeil, turnover has grown at the same pace, a perfect complement. In general, how do you see the specialised trade situation?

Serdar Mazmanoglu, Executive Board of Mavi Europe AG on partnerships in the retail sector.

113 style in progress

Strong bond: Showroom expansion and a strong trade show presence are considered investments in the trading relationship. Photo: G-Star.

In the suburbs, retail trade is losing, but the ones who are winning are the top dogs who are increasingly growing on a nationwide scale. This also has consequences for sales, they have to work more closely with the key accounts as they have a greater share of the business. The bottom line is that we make more money with fewer customers.

Partnership isn't just a bubble, it is actively filled with life. We have 80 shop-in-stores in cooperation with trading partners and own managers who intensively take care of these cooperations. Planning is conducted together - the size of the store is secondary to this. As a brand, we feel responsible for the product, even following the sale. The merchandise should be in the right price range and visible in the appropriate retail space. If something isn't working, the customer must be able to react quickly, also in terms of price-reductions. If it's still not working, then we suggest exchanging the merchandise, for example. Cooperation in the shop-in-shops is even closer. Here, it's not enough to just set up the fixtures, it also requires EDI connections, visual marketing and regular talks with clients for this collaboration to be successful over the long-term.


120 WHAT'S THE STORY

Entrepreneur Harald Heldmann: "You have to enjoy doing it."

"Fashion Can Only Move Forward"

heldmann. Taking pleasure in what you do and considered growth is a mixture that has made Christine and Harald Heldmann the successful entrepreneurs they are. The couple now pull the strings behind eleven Classico stores, an online store and three labels. style in progress visited Harald Heldmann. Text: Martina M端llner. Photos: Uli Mattes

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WHAT'S THE STORY 121

Bringing the two labels Heldmann and Bloom together in 2008 to make a promising collection was "long overdue". Even in times of success, the businessman in Harald Heldmann remains alert and critical: He doesn't just want the positive impact of his decisions to be emotionally linked, he would also like to see it reflected in the figures too. What first started off in 1993 as a knitwear label for the eleven Classico multi-brand stores of today, gave his founding father a great deal of pleasure. Emotionally and in figures. A new self-confidence and a more decisive front in terms of image and advertising came with the international name of Bloom. Along with a considerable amount of fine-tuning in the degree of fashion. "The roundneck and V-neck basic sweater business is on the rise with a number of other people", says Harald Heldmann, not without a little sadness. After all, he also helped the basics business for years himself. However: "Nowadays, fashionably-speaking, we can only move forwards." Both designers, Nina Steps and Alexandra Charalampiev, are encouraged to blaze new trails. Bold colours, over-dyeing, lurex threads, intricate embroidery,

Freedom in the creation: Bloom is rewarded - and ordered - for its daring fashion.

a Bloom piece today has little in common with Heldmann knitwear from the early days. This also poses a challenge for Harald Heldmann's sourcing structure in Hong Kong: Using production partners for own labels as well as for private label products from other labels, requires them to have a strong focus on quality over quantity today more than ever. "But with our small number of pieces for Heldmann and Bloom we have always placed great demands on our production partners", says Harald Heldmann. The Adventure of Being an Entrepreneur

A pretty go-getting entrepreneurial spirit also rests within the supposedly thoughtful, reclusive "technocrat in the company" of Harald Heldmann, seen in proj足 ects from recent years. The Hanseatic entrepreneur and his team have pounced on a "traditional German product" with "Made in Heaven" - the Janker jacket. A merino-cashmere mix worn with an Oktoberfest Dirndl or even as city wear, having such an idea coming from North Germany shouldn't really detract from any of the success experienced south of the Bavarian veal sausage equator. Distribution agent C辿line Klauser generated a good 100 customers in a flash, this circle should continue growing in Austria and Switzerland. The same can be said of Smilla's customer base, a knitwear label for a wider target group. And yet here too: No bog standard products or goods likely to end up as pro-

motional fodder in major department stores. But discovering that Harald Heldmann helps such projects find their feet must first be teased out of him. After all, Hanseatics certainly aren't into blowing their own trumpets. A Business Model Online, Yet Still Expanding Offline

Heldmann's multi-brand women's store Classico has 11 branches today. The most recent of these is historic in two ways. Number one, because the L端beck location is the first outside Hamburg. Number two, because frescoes dating from 1420 were uncovered in the old townhouse and boldly put on display. The spacious, high ceilings also play their part in creating a classy ambience, something that the creator can also be a little bit proud of. "The most beautiful store between Hamburg and Flensburg." Dry afterthought: "Just as well, because there is nothing else around nowadays." This analysis isn't aimed at doing the competition down, the businessman is simply stating a fact, one he observes on myclassico.com daily: The webshop has been online for 7 years now and hardly cannibalises its own shops. "Less than ten per cent of customers come from Hamburg. Quite the opposite, we often see customers from rural areas buying, where there simply aren't any other local suppliers for sophisticated fashion. And since this target group isn't likely to be getting any smaller, nowadays we have an online

team of 15 on the lookout for new property. But Heldmann isn't quite yet ready to accept that the increased need for space may mean myclassico having to say goodbye to the city centre. Because he travels the short distances between the two offices and the many branch stores several times a day. They prove that he still has his eye on everything. And just like his wife Christine, he likes to be a little bit indispensable. Staying at lunch a little longer talking with other business people, leaving the office a little earlier to enjoy a little more private life. Whether they are doing something active such as cycling or something more peaceful like watching the ships on the Alster go by, the couple have laid down a certain Laissez-Faire cornerstone. A long time ago.

A spectacular setting for the historic fresco on the ceiling of the L端beck store.

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122 WHAT'S THE STORY

In the new autumn/winter collection 2013/14, the Lucky de Luca collection will be showcasing flannel shirts in its usual colourful design.

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WHAT'S THE STORY 123

Laugh and the World Laughs with You Lucky de Luca. Valentino de Luca has re-invented the shirt. But loaded it with emotion. His Lucky de Luca label stands for a great feel-good feeling. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Heiko Dreher

he has a total of 400 customers in Europe, the US and Asia. Two years following market launch. He started with a turnover of 60,000 euros and closed 2012 with a turnover of 2.5 million euros. What is it about Lucky de Luca that makes you feel so good? It's because Valentino de Luca has managed to generate an amiable atmosphere around everything. As a newcomer he could never understand why everybody in fashion takes everything so incredibly seriously.

A feel-good feeling is the motto of Valentino de Luca and an essential part of his brand DNA.

Growth but Not at Any Price

Valentino de Luca is the perfect role model for his own label. Listening to him, you are constantly asking yourself: "Can it really be so easy?" The Italianborn designer turned Munichlover designs fashion because he has fun doing it. He talks with everybody personally, from fabric manufacturers in the production hall down to the salesman in the shop. Every morning, he gets up at 5 a.m., spends hours on planes and really does everything himself. This starts with designing cutting patterns and the individual fabrics with producers in Italy, where he introduces his own ideas on the ground. And ends with shooting the look book with his own family. He started his Lucky de Luca label as a one-man-show in 2009 and celebrated its retail première in January 2010. His conversations are peppered with names like Bloomingdales or Harvey Nichols and he explains

The label is now at the point where Valentino de Luca needs to make a decision. Although a number of inquiries from wholesalers are on the table, should Lucky de Luca grow step by step, organically as the designer calls it. "I see the biggest mistake in letting everything move too fast. You need to be very careful about such things." This is why distribution is kept selective. In Germany, this is organised via Lars Fischer. For the mediumterm, Valentino de Luca's primary objective is to ensure all countries have clear distribution structures and perfect service for his customers. He travels to every showroom himself, discusses how his label is being presented with agents and much prefers a single point of contact. He even travels to some of the dealers to discuss on site how the shirts can be properly decorated. "That's when you can tell I'm from Southern Italy because I always like to control everything myself. I've even got the mobile phone number of the truck driver who takes my fabric from Italy to Turkey." Delivered Before the Trade Fair

"I'm at the fabric manufacturers as soon as it's July to discuss what I need before they head off on their summer holidays. This means I always get my materials on time." The two collections per year are also organised ac-

cording to this delivery rhythm. "I always deliver before the trade fairs. My experience as a designer has shown me how important it is when a dealer comes up to you at a trade fair and has sold a number of pieces already." Lucky de Luca can't manage the NOS programmes and re-ordering options, so everything runs according to the classic pre-order system. "Smaller customers order in July and August and get the entire package at the beginning of January. Major customers order one package but this is spaced out between January, February and March. Those ordering in January and February will get their goods between 15th June and the first week in July. If you've done your homework, then everything turns out alright."

So, I put great store on detail solutions, on special stitchings, on minor details such as lucky buttons." In the 2012 summer collection, the Lucky de Luca product range expanded with a line of sporty polo shirts and the 2012 autumn/winter collection followed with hoodies, sweaters and T-shirts for men. Creating the DNA of a fashion label largely based on an inflation-prone resource such as a feel-good factor sounds risky at first. But the feel-good factor at Lucky de Luca isn't just a concept, it's a logical consequence of the single-minded owner's character, whose motto is "I make fashion. I make things that bring fun to people."

Casual Instead of Slim Fit

Valentino de Luca's motto is Learning by Doing. He garnered his expertise in fashion as a designer and trend scout for major international houses. He established his brand based on two relatively demanding product categories: Shirts and jackets. "The secret to my success lies in not just having everything in slim fit. My target group is made up of men and women who want to feel good in their clothes.

Lucky de Luca was founded in 2009 by Gerardo Valentino de Luca. The company's headquarters are in Eching near Munich. Turnover in 2012 was 2.5 million euros. The label sells via its own online shop and in retail stores. There are no own stores so far. Lucky de Luca is repre­sented in Europe, the US, Canada and Asia with approximately 400 dealers. www.luckydeluca.com. www.luckydeluca.com/kontakt

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124 WHAT‘S THE STORY

Fortes fortuna adiuvat* Fortune favours the brave!

Rockstars & Angels. LA Style, made in LA, but with German reliability – using this formula, Sascha Gerecht and his partners want to get off to a flying start in the European market. Text: Stephan Huber. Photos: Rockstars & Angels

Cool prints, Rock-'n'Roll attitude, sexiness...and please let's have some more.

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"I am a house DJ! And they all only wanted to hear R&B!!!" Sascha Gerecht's smile is still a little grim when he speaks about his first days in Los Angeles. He had not expected that the red carpet would be rolled out for him in the City of Angels. But the fact that he, who was accustomed to success and was a real VIP in Europe, and in Germany in particular, had doors slammed in his face was a little too much for him then. Gerecht is indeed a star, but no diva. And because he had got it into his head that he would do his thing in LA, he was not scared off by the hard slog. "Fortune favours the brave!*" Not only old Latin scholars know this. Gerecht's persistence and his self-belief were rewarded in any case. Unsociable as he is, he was quickly able to make the right contacts. A door opener rather than a doorman. The "White Parties" in an abandoned villa in the Hollywood hills, which rapidly became legendary, were Gerecht's ticket into the LA in-crowd. He got to know Christian Audigier and began to understand how the principle of celebrity works. He got to know Lorenzo Hadar of H Lorenzo

and began to understand how the fashion trade works. He got to know Tyler Atkins and began to understand how surfing works. "We want to do it RIGHT"

This absolute desire to always learn something new is what characterises Sascha Gerecht. It was ultimately this exact characteristic that made his dream of his own fashion label into a reality. "We made lots of mistakes at the beginning," he admits very openly. Because there is a lot more to it than just hanging a few good ideas on a rail. And so Gerecht and his partners in crime, manager Björn Steiner and head designer Lars Böttcher, took the time to do everything right in their second, serious attempt. Sascha Gerecht: We visited and tested more producers than I can count. But it became clear to us very quickly that production and delivery have to be perfect in order to get an opportunity in a demanding market." The flagship store opened up almost overnight on Melrose in 2011. He tells us about how he laid the floors of the store himself with more pride than telling us about any celebrity knees up, and the store proved to be a real stroke of luck. Celebrities were soon there with their hands on the latch of the door. More than anything though, important lessons could be learned about the product there. The fact that Gerecht hangs out in the gym with Mel Gibson, plays at Sly Stallone's private parties and plays football with Robbie Williams, that Mesut Özil and Sammy Khedira give interviews in Rockstars & Angels shirts, which has great advertising appeal, all of this delights the self-made man from the Swabian town of Waldenbuch. However, he knows that high-quality specialist trade today needs more than a few paparazzi photos. Specifically, a really good product with a truly good structure supporting it. They left the development of sales and distribution in European markets in the experienced hands of Dieter Ebling, who

Sascha Gerecht is living his dream and is also working damn hard for it.

managed to quickly set up a sustainable network of established agencies. In Berlin in January 2013, Rockstars & Angels presents, for the first time, the typically loud look that moves nicely between big trousers, selfirony and an internalised lust for life. And indeed with a big bang at the Panorama (that befits its status). Sascha Gerecht: "We are convinced that the LA style, as we at Rockstars & Angels interpret it, will spark off a real boom once again."

www.rockstarsandangels.com


Š 2013 INDAS retail S.r.l

PREMIUM International Fashion Trade Show

Berlin | January 15-17, 2013 | Hall 3 | Stand H3-F18 Die Hinterhofagentur | tel.: +49(89) 388 877 47-48

www.tortugaacademy.eu


126 WHAT'S THE STORY

A Clover Leaf for Every Desire Cruciani. Fashion and Italy. Craftsmanship and tradition. Just like a game of memory, these terms definitely belong together. Cruciani - a name that stands as much for fine cashmere collections as it does for its recent colourful lace bracelets - is a major contributor in this pair-up principle. Text: Jeanette Fuchs. Photos: Cruciani

Looking as though they're the result of a playful mood, the fame of the Cruciani C lace bracelets stretches from Tokyo to Paris. They are also a counterpoint to what Cruciani represents, somthing little known to the bracelet-wearing trendsetters. Trevi in Umbria has been home to the premier cashmere knitwear company for more than 20 years. The brains behind it: Luca Caprai. Coming from a traditional and prestigious textile dynasty, when buying raw materials the owner of Cruciani keeps a very close eye on the quality. Only top quality materials from China and Mongolia are processed.

Tradition, innovation and perfection: The cornerstone of the Cruciani philosophy also applies to the colourful lace bracelets.

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WHAT'S THE STORY 127

The spinning and dying processes follow traditional models and are carried out in their own premises in Italy. The "made in Italy" seal borne by the Cruciani collection is a badge of honour. Heavyweight Luxury

Customers can have faith in the entire production chain - from purchasing the raw materials to the finished product - in line with the company's motto but this motto also means that Luca Caprai never tires of raising the raw cashmere material to ever greater levels of quality. An important indication of the high standards of the Cruciani collection is in its weight, it's around 10 per cent heavier than comparable products. To combat any unwanted pilling, the threads processed for the knitwear are especially long and fine and a firm, tighter fabrication process is selected. Caprais' mission culminates in the Red Diamond Cashmere certified by "Det Norske Veritas" and which has 50-millimetre-long fibres. The Gold Collection is based on this exclusive yarn and is the label's premium yarn. There are more than 400 different shades covering the whole colour spectrum. A team of around 66 people work on different shades and intricate weaving patterns, actively combining tradition and innovation. Perfection is another cornerstone in the Cruciani philosophy. Every product undergoes strict quality controls and are tested for colour-fastness, pilling and imperfections by using illuminated dolls and light tables. A Mismatched Pair

Cruciani has two stores in Milan: in the Via Manzoni and the prestigious Via Verri.

He stepped out of the family empire's shadow a long time ago and Luca Caprai wouldn't be Luca Caprai if he weren to continue following his passion - despite health setbacks: Conquering markets, expanding distribution channels and marketing the name of Cruciani across the world. The Italian label has a presence in around 400 multi-brand stores and department stores from New York to Moscow, as well as its own mono-brand stores which also include Milan, Tokyo and Dubai. The delicate lace has become a woven vehicle attracting attention from around the world and broadcasting the entrepreneurial spirit of Luca Caprais. Who else would have credited an accessory with having the necessary charisma to uncover the values of tradition and innovation.

To mark collaboration with Colette, the bracelets on a bottle of Krug champagne symbolise the colours of the French flag.

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128 WHAT'S THE STORY

"We're always on the look-out for the best possible products" Cruciani. Luca Caprai can rest on his laurels. Thanks to him, the Cruciani label has become an international talking point again - with lace bracelets, a nod to the roots of the traditional company. Text: Jeanette Fuchs. Photo: Cruciani

How can a traditional clothing brand profit from the hype about hip, affordable trend accessories?

Luca Caprai, the owner of Cruciani, crosses the creative bridge between affordable lace accessories and luxurious cashmere collections.

The Cruciani C bracelets represent the high standards of the entire Caprai family. My father has been a renowned manufacturer of lace home textiles for over fifty years and I'm continuing the cashmere and lace manufacturing tradition in my Cruciani company. Our bracelets are small, high-quality and very well-made accessories. They come in a wide variety of different colours and patterns and allow you to have a small slice of luxury for just 10 to 20 euros, they are also nicely packed. It's a fair price to pay for something for yourself or to give away. The bracelet's success comes quite clearly from the mixture of quality, tradition and passion - clever communication, of course.

Does a successful "spin-off" have what it takes to overturn many years of accepted principles, philosophies and concepts?

We haven't thrown over any principles or philosophies. We're always on the look-out for the best possible products, whether it's a bracelet or an item of clothing. What strategy do you use to redirect the current attention away from lace bracelets onto the clothing collection? Despite opposing markets, do synergies exist?

Cruciani C combines quality with innovative products. We have good results using this formula and so do our customers. We appreciate the honest and open relationship we have with them.

Some people who come into our stores have never been in contact with our high-quality cashmere products before and are only there because of the bracelets. They are amazed to see what fine, classy and high-quality materials we use. This is a nice synergetic effect with our other products. Where does Cruciani consider itself to be in the opposing fields of trend and tradition? Do values like tradition, quality and craftsmanship take shortlived, fashionable trends into account at all?

I think that the great success of our bracelets lies in their high degree of craftsmanship. The trend is rooted in a long-standing tradition and manufacture. Our bracelets are small luxury goods made by one of the most prestigious manufacturers of lace around. Many have already tried to copy our bracelets but have certainly never come anywhere close to offering the same high standards that we do. By the way, genuine Cruciani C bracelets can be recognised by the interwoven C. Which philosophy distinguishes Cruciani from other Italian cashmere producers?

Our philosophy is to design sophisticated, timeless, clear products focussing on their high-quality. People who wear Cruciani have made a conscious decision for the style and elegance of our products and which are 100 % made in Italy.

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What goals does Cruciani have for the future? How important will it be to create products that are not only of a highquality but also capture the spirit of the times?

Luca Caprai was born with business acumen: He founded his first label in 1992 when but a boy in the traditional textile dynasty. With the cashmere collections, Cruciani represents the highest standards of quality and traditional craftsmanship. In creating the Cruciani C lace bracelets the visionary company made quite a coup, one that has spilled over into the US and Japanese markets. www.cruciani.net www.braccialetticruciani.it


130 WHAT'S THE STORY

Not only does the down of the grey goose have the highest volume, it also has the ability to spring back into shape particularly well. Ideal parameters for a brand that does without a logo and wants to be known for its quality.

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WHAT'S THE STORY 131

Goosey, goosey, gander DUVETICA. A down coat, not a logo in sight and only wanting to prove its worth with its internal values: The unusual story of the Italian Duvetica label. Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Duvetica

A former silk spinning factory about twenty minutes outside Venice. Room was created for a young, innovative brand here, the scent of a start-up scent is in the air. With their experience and reputation in the fashion industry, Stefano Rovoletto and Giampiero Vagliano appear just a little "too senior" for this world. A first impression that the two quickly prove to be false. Because nothing holds a candle to the two young entrepreneurs when it comes to their passion. Before founding Duveticas in 2005, both of them held high positions at Moncler - as international Sales Director and Marketing Manager. The idea of creating a down coat resulted from their experiences abroad but they were well aware that such an idea was too daring for the European market. Their vision: A stand-alone product so stylish that it didn't need a logo to be recognised. And not wanting to make any concessions with the logo-crazy European market, the two decided to establish their business where it could be clearly understood: In Japan. Exclusively. Brand with No Italian Market?

Worked perfectly: Japan's retailers were overjoyed. Materials of the highest quality, meticulous processing, plenty of history to pass on to the customers. The brand counts nearly a thousand doors today. Plus top buyers from the fashion world sourced the label in Japan and presented it in Europe as an insider's tip - this would have been enough success for the two founders. However: "When Japanese buyers travelled to Europe and Italy they were disappointed they couldn't find the label anywhere and we ran the risk of losing our credibility", says Giampiero Vagliano. "Yes, you could say we were forced to launch in Europe too", says Stefano Rovoletto laughing. The idea of languishing in the entrepreneurial comfort zone with a small, fine brand was to become a thing of the past. The two rolled up their sleeves, established a distribu-

tion structure in Italy and got Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz on board, a man with plenty of experience of the German and Austrian markets. They doggedly held their belief that the label was not to be wasted as part of the mass merchandise phenomenon. Of course, some winters, the well-known Duvetica style with its all-round zipped hood was a prominent feature on the streets. But, the credo of keeping the brand fresh through product innovations changed little in this success. And so, the Duveticas Look stands out with its materials, quilting and colours even today. Of Grey Geese and Noble Knights

Bear in mind: The down of the grey goose. It has the highest volume and the greatest ability to spring back into shape after stressing. In contrast to ducks or white geese, grey geese can only be reared where they have large runs and natural feed. Rearing grey geese in the Périgord region of France was under threat as fewer and fewer people were prepared to pay the high price for the precious feathers. So, Duvetica turned into a saviour with their long-term purchase agreements. Stefano Rovoletto and Giampiero Vagliano were recently decorated for their efforts. They may now refer to themselves as knights of the Foie Gras, something grey geese also supply. An anecdote that causes both to laugh uproariously – but which is also emblematic of the many apparent chance occurrences that have turned the passion of two branch experts into an internationally oriented brand.

Duvetica was founded in 2005, initially launched in Japan where the label has its own tight distribution network. Rei Kawakubo from Comme des Garçons carries a Duvetica jacket in her collection, the architect Tadao Ando designed the Duvetica flagship store in Milan. The label builds on the upscale speciality retail sector in Europe, citylight campaigns at airports and sponsorships in sailing help to raise the label's profile. www.duvetica.com

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132 WHAT'S THE STORY

The Self-Made Man High-quality jackets, attractive markup. With Blonde No.8, Michael Boveleth has a new concept to fill a gap in the market and it has already won 500 customers over in a very short space of time. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Blonde No.8

The vision came in the night, so to speak. A label with outdoor jackets plus blazers, solidly crafted by hand, with a great deal of attention to detailing. And at attractive terms that would allow retailers great profit margins: With an entry markup of 3 if net payment is made within 30 days - and an unbeatable 3.3 if paid within five days of sending the merchandise. "Right from the onset, Blonde No.8 has hit the mark, there are 500 points of sale today", says label founder Michael Boveleth pleased, after all he has top customers such as Lodenfrey, Beck, Konen, Bailly Diehl, Breuninger and Apropos. One-Man-Show

Success doesn't come by itself though. The industry knows Michael Boveleth as an enthusiastic man in this field and as a man of Ambiente. He was co-owner of

the company for 27 years, until mid-2010; most of the time with his brother Peter Boveleth. After years of success, it was hard for the DOB company as a combiprovider, so Ambiente filed for insolvency. In 2010, Peter Boveleth bought the company wanting to continue running it with his wife Anke Boveleth. Michael Boveleth decided to go it alone. In fact, Boveleth's new project Blonde No.8 is more or less a one-man-show. He works with external partners for logistics, finance and distribution in order to keep the running costs as low as possible. This also allows Boveleth to focus on the essentials and that is - self-financed, by the way - the product. He is responsible for design and involved in the patterns; to do this, at least once a month, Boveleth goes to China for ten days spending it at his producing partner factory in Shenzhen near Hong Kong. "We have a model company, clean, modern and well-equipped, we take care to have fair working conditions", says Boveleth stressing the point. He knows every facet of the textile business. As a child he cleaned sewing machines at the weekend with his grandfather, who was a gentlemen's tailor, later he studied at the University of Applied Sciences in Mรถnchengladbach. His primary concern with Blonde No.8. is the craftsmanship for a sophisticated product. A washable blazer with horn buttons and printed stretch lining together with buttoned blazer sleeves are already available for 179 euros retail. The buttons are sewn by hand and the shaft is again sealed using a special machine. Michael Boveleth is happy to invest in details like these and it obviously pay off. "We hang out in the best departments between Drykorn and Closed but also between Burberry and St. Emile", says Boveleth. "By mid-November, we already had a sales quota of 80 per cent." Close to the Product

Clear vision: Michael Boveleth, owner of Blonde No.8.

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The collection focuses on 40 pieces and is complemented with the Anni Carlsson collection in

Product with loving attention to details: No.8.

collaboration with his partner Annika Schwerin. This consists of silk scarves and a blazer with a silk lining at a retail price of 299 euros. And from winter 2013, a men's collection in traditional manufacture will also be added. Now, the customer base is to be consolidated and cautiously expanded, for example, into Italy, Switzerland and later even into the expanding market of China. It is important to Michael Boveleth that he continues to have close proximity to the product. Because this makes him the best ambassador for his label.

Blonde No.8 GmbH. founded in 2011, 500 customers across Europe, 40 pieces per main collection. www.blondeno8.com


FOCUS ON GOOSE DOWN 90/10 QUALITY. MORE ON WWW.HETREGO.IT


134 WHAT'S THE STORY

Investment in Growth René Lezard. After René Lezard spent the past four years dedicating himself to changing processes and a strategic realignment, and after he bought shares back from Design & Licences, a subsidiary of the bankrupt Mariella Burani Fashion Group, the fashion group issued a corporate bond for the first time in November 2012. The proceeds from issuing the bond are to be used to expand the financing base, strengthen the brand and accelerate expansion. Text: Jeanette Fuchs. Photos: René Lezard

Heinz Hackl didn't have it easy when he joined the René Lezard Group, which is located in Schwarzach am Main, in 2008. After just four weeks, he was confronted with a double-digit sales warning. The CEO of René Lezard candidly describes the difficult situation at the time: processes had to be reassessed; sequences changed and stock and staff had to be reduced. Thanks to the changes, it was possible to create a solid foundation for the investment in the fields of marketing and sales that took place two years later. A growth rate of six per cent was already recorded in the business year 2011/2012. A Eureka moment for Hackl: "We saw that payback followed within just one year. So it made sense to invest more." Moving Ahead

Internally, various financing alternatives were discussed, until finally the decision was made in favour of financing by means of a bond, because of its tangible advantages, its more longterm prospects and the higher certainty it provides in terms of planning. "After four years of adapting processes, reducing costs and realignment, we were well placed and we wanted to move forward with investments in marketing and sales," Hackl describes their motives. "The bond didn't just offer us the opportunity to make funds 113 style in progress

available for growth, it was also a sensible opportunity to broaden our financing base – so it doesn't only cover banks, but the capital market too." Rigorous Planning

With companies like Seidensticker and Laurèl, René Lezard believes it is in good, if rare, company. René Lezard is not the first fashion company to raise loan capital with this type of financing, and with good reason. But first, half of the company had to be bought back from the bankrupt Mariella Burani Fashion Group. "We only wanted to issue the bond after the management buy out, otherwise it wouldn't have worked. But the financing was already being prepared in the background," reveals CEO Hackl. However, he doesn't see himself as a pioneer: "The principle of the SME bond is not new. What is remarkable is just that companies with brands are also increasingly choosing this financing instrument. Whether or not it's about fashion is beside the point. What really counts for investors is sustainably good management, a good track record and a good rating." Heinz Hackl deals pragmatically with the issue of how to read Creditreform Rating AG's evaluation, which came in below Laurèl: "Investors want to invest their money wisely, they compare and then choose. So every company must present their strategy." He sees the interest rate of 7.25 p.a. as a good choice. The bond volume of 15 million euros was issued in full to private and institutional investors on the first day of the subscription. If this hadn't been the case we could have lived just as well with using the whole subscription period. "Clearly oversubscribed bonds are not always the subject of great interest, rather they can also be a sign of an interest rate that is too high, which doesn't correspond with the rating," emphasises Hackl. A Focus on Expansion

The proceeds from issuing the bond are to be used at first, and in the amount of up to 7.5

million euros, for the conversion to a long-term and balanced financing base. The rest flows into marketing measures and expansion. While the brand is to be strengthened with print advertisements, PR and activities at the point of sale, when it comes to sales, the company also strives to expand its own retail spaces in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. "We are already reasonably occupied in Germany. Beyond national borders, we don't just have cities with populations of millions in mind, rather smaller spaces covering about 200 square metres," explains CEO Hackl. Internationally-speaking, they also want to boost their activities in the markets in Russia and Asia. E-commerce should also be more of a focus in future. According to Hackl, the existing online store, from a turnover point of view, is currently still "manageable but with high growth rates" and is not just used as a pure sales platform but also as a channel of communication. The goal is to continue the growth phase that was initiated in 2011 with high investments. "We have changed the collection and have a well-placed design team. It's all about building on that now," Heinz Hackl is convinced. During this phase, the fashion group reflects on the value of its brands of the '80s and '90s, which were modernised and adapted to the needs of the market. The bonds are to be paid back in five years, for now, a longer timespan is not envisaged. "Internally, we are on the right track. Our goal is to work constantly on planned growth opportunities in the coming years. In addition, we will examine how and when we will ring in the second phase of growth."

René Lezard was established in 1978 in Schwarzach am Main by Thomas Schaefer. Along with Thomas Schaefer, Heinz Hackl and Torsten Poschardt are also entrusted with running the company. René Lezard has gained the position of a premium supplier of women's and men's clothes and accessories. Sales take place in the company's own stores and retail stores in Europe, Scandinavia, CIS states, the Middle East, Canada and the US, as well as in several factory outlet centres and its own online store. The company has more than 400 employees. In October 2012, Thomas Schaefer and Heinz Hackl bought back the 50 percent worth of shares from Design & Licences, a 100 percent subsidiary of the Mariella Burani Fashion Group, which went bankrupt in 2010. On 14th November 2012, René Lezard issued a corporate bond at an annual interest rate of 7.25 per cent. The bond is being traded on the Frankfurt stock exchange and has a period of validity of five years. www.rene-lezard.com


WHAT'S THE STORY 135

Along with marketing measures to improve the brand, the proceeds from issuing the bond are flowing into expansion, whereby the company's own stores are the focus.

CEO RenĂŠ Lezard finances investments in marketing and sales and distribution using a corporate bond: from left to right. Torsten Poschardt, Heinz Hackl, Thomas Schaefer.

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136 THE TALK

Who’ll get the biggest piece? Everybody wants a taste of the hub Berlin.

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THE TALK 137

Why do brands need tradeshows? What does a tradeshow need to offer today in order to be an attractive platform for a brand? Are tradeshows still relevant at all - and are they still a profitable business for everybody? A discussion between different market protagonists, interviewed by Isabel Faiss and Nicoletta Schaper. style in progress 113


138 THE TALK

See and Be Seen

The Future Lies in the Concentration

Reinhard Haase, owner of Unifa Fashion agency (incl. JBrand, Wildfox, Mother) as well as True Religion Brand Jeans Germany.

During the first few years, our tradeshow appearances were always extremely large and elaborately staged, particularly at the Bread & Butter. The tradeshows were a springboard for us; our presence there has greatly contributed towards our success. These last few years, I've come back from the Berlin tradeshow and asked myself whether the fair was a success and have always come to the conclusion, that they weren't actually. At least, not for my established brand. I've got the shows from the past in my mind, where real business was done and the high costs were at least offset by the written orders. Nowadays though, business in my premium jeans sector has progressed along different lines. We have customers in the showroom for orders up to six times a year, which means that many of them just say "hello" when they're at the booth and: 'We'll see you in your showroom as scheduled'. Two seasons ago, in January 2012, I skipped the Bread & Butter. Karl-Heinz M端ller is still doing a great job, his shows are very professionally done. But, the last time we were there, in summer 2011, we no longer felt comfortable with our True Religion booth in the less high-quality environment, plus we missed out on our customers which we also put down to the mix of brands. It wasn't easy saying no, as I've got a very good relationship with KarlHeinz M端ller and I've always liked supporting him with his projects. This also goes for the decision makers of the Premium, Norbert Tillmann and Anita Tillmann. Sometimes saying no is really difficult to bring across. At the last Premium tradeshow, we had a stand in the hall for JBrand, Mother and Wildfox as well as an outside stand for True Religion, we've also planned this for the current show too. Positioning for True Religion was perfect, we were well spotted by customers and they also took the opportunity to place orders via our immediate programme 113 style in progress

Fred Bschaden, owner of Agentur Treibstoff with brands such as RedWing, Filson, Dukes, Nigel Cabourn.

because they had the peace and quiet here to place orders. I don't think that fashion works without tradeshows, since a tradeshow is an important platform for newcomers. Nevertheless, you can see a tradeshow fatigue in Germany, and in America, too. The tradeshow landscape has altered there as well, perhaps even more extremely than here. Certainly because there are much fewer retailers there and a lot of brands have withdrawn from the market too. Our branch still needs a platform to see and be seen. Berlin will keep tradeshow management. You have to hope for this because fairs are an important means of exchanging information and contacts for everybody in the industry. I don't believe that you can only rely on showroom business."

www.unifafashion.com, www.truereligionbrandjeans.com

"From a business point of view, a tradeshow represents the best possible supply and demand market situation. Like a supermarket, it makes comparing choices for the perfect meal possible in a small space. For fashion buyers at tradeshows it's a similar thing, they can find everything to create their perfect future store. Tradeshows in Cologne and D端sseldorf used to last three days each and you got able to see everything. The system was well thought out, it worked well. Nowadays, in Berlin we have several tradeshows over three days, for dealers this is extremely difficult to cope with. I was in Paris at the Capsule in September, at the Tranoi. The most important thing is communicating with the people you meet. Have you seen this and this collection? You have to go and look at it. Information like this is very basic stuff, but it is difficult to see everything when it is spread so far apart. Nowadays, the buyers rush through the halls, just managing to get a rough idea of it all and can scarcely place any orders. It's also become extremely difficult for a brand to position themselves correctly. With my portfolio, it's pretty clear I'm well catered for in the L.O.C.K. area at the Bread & Butter in Berlin. I feel the excitement of the overall environment is important, creating that excitement is the responsibility of the tradeshow organisers. But you could remove pressure by prolonging the tradeshow. An exhibitor builds his stand on the first day, catches his breath on the second and takes it back down again on the third day. Absolute madness! Pitti Uomo is a good example of a relaxed, casual tradeshow with a concentrated range of products. The quality of the audience is very good and very international. Berlin doesn't have this kind of format. The future lies in the concentration; less can be more, be an order platform again. This also means focusing on the product portfolio more clearly and target-

ing the audience more specifically. Similar to a L.O.C.K., but with a separate entrance so that people have the opportunity to get information as quickly as possible without first having to run through all the halls. A point of interest, a trend spot would be a good idea, something that tells you what the highlights are, where trends are heading. That is missing at most fairs. I'm all for having everything that serves concentration and I'm an opponent of decentralisation. In future, tradeshows will be smaller, finer; only the well-sorted and organised ones will survive. A platform like the L.O.C.K. is the future for me."

www.agenturtreibstoff.com


AUTUMN/WINTER 2013/2014 GERMANY‘S FASHION EXHIBITION FOR LUXURY WOMEN‘S AND MEN‘S WEAR

02.-05.02.2013 Düsseldorf B1 Bennigsen Platz 1 Karl-Arnold-Platz / Kaiserswerther Strasse

Munich Fashion Company GmbH Bretonischer Ring 18 · 85630 Grasbrunn / Germany Tel.: +49-(0)89-420 44 79 - 0 · info@munichfashioncompany.de

www.munichfashioncompany.com

16.-19.02.2013 München MTC world of fashion Ingolstädter Str. 45 / Taunusstr. 45


140 THE TALK

Perhaps One Tradeshow a Year Is Enough

Focus on the Product

Shubhankar Ray, Global Brand Director G-Star.

Marco Lanowy, Managing Director Alberto GmbH & Co.KG.

"Basically, showing at a tradeshow does every brand good, whether they're new or established. However, the question begs to be asked whether brands just arriving in the marketplace really need the tradeshow. As such, brands are already permanently in contact with their customers providing them with new information and the show is just an additional "Meet Friends and Family". So, I'm very deliberately asking: Nowadays, do we need two tradeshows a year? Isn't one enough, when we are already at the point where we already have far too much information? We've often considered showing at a tradeshow just once a year. The market has changed, there is a variety of sources of information available nowadays. Information is more readily available to a trade audience than it gets to see at a tradeshow. What the fair offers visitors can be anything ranging from information to entertainment, look at Berlin. We are a very emotionally-charged industry, so entertainment is also a part of this too. Business, however, is done in the showrooms. This is different to Moscow's CPM, for example, where customers arrive at the shows with specific ideas on what to purchase as he only has the opportunity of ordering a product at the event. This season, we'll be focusing on key aspects such as communication and the product. We're not going to be doing any fair-hopping, instead we're going to be presenting in the showrooms and by our clients. The most successful tradeshows on an international level are those that specialise, where they don't have a thousand brands under one roof. Perhaps, this focus is also the future of Germany's tradeshow scene. I call what we experience there the Frog Effect: you blow out your cheeks, getting bigger and bigger, taking in more and more air, until at some point you just have to let it out again. It can work out well because you then go back to the charm of the authentic, like in the beginning when brands showcased their 113 style in progress

products in a few small square metres. Tradeshows really started to suffer when major brands started to show too grandly.

www.alberto-pants.com

"We look back at another successful showing at the Bread & Butter tradeshow and still support this decision to remain faithful to the tradeshow. The Bread & Butter team was, and always is, a reliable partner for us. They know the market and their visitors. There has been a lot of talk on whether the fluctuation in the Denim Hall reflects the market development in this segment. I think this is not determined by the economic developments but the cyclical nature of the market. Denim is both an essential and iconic garment within people’s wardrobes, so even though the players in the market might fluctuate, the relevance of the product never will. For G-Star, denim is our foundation and we remain true to this passion by constant innovation. We never really thought of skipping the Bread & Butter. The tradeshow is the seasonal kick-off for the street and urban wear industry, a perfect opportunity for us to share our passion for denim and our new collection with the retailer. Of course, having a presence at tradeshows means putting in a certain amount of investment for somebody of our magnitude. But not only does it allow us to showcase our collection it also underlines our support for the customers Being an integral part of the Bread & Butter tradeshow gives G-Star the opportunity to activate the social bonding with dealers and our trade audience and develop an emotional connection between them and our products. It gives us the opportunity to exchange our brand DNA and dramatise the product in a special way through infotainment. Bread & Butter also offers us the possibility to further stimulate the international G-Star Store staff. Trade fairs are a platform where product is the centre of attention; they help to keep the denim category relevant in the modern fashion business. They make sure that denim remains

on top of mind for the retailers and contribute to the development of denim and showcase the product innovation. Which is why investing in side events was never an option of ours.

www.g-star.com


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142 THE TALK

Back to Order

Open Your Eyes and Look

Daniel Grieder, CEO Tommy Hilfiger Europe.

"Not every brand needs tradeshows. Tradeshows are the perfect platform for new brands or collections that haven't yet launched or have only slightly launched in the respective market. But well-known brands are less dependent upon what has increasingly evolved over the last few years. Previously, tradeshows were the first line of information. Nowadays, when the customer can learn everything via the internet, the tradeshows are playing a lesser role. We were at the Bread & Butter in Barcelona for the first time six years ago, to show that we also represent jeans. We invested a lot in this; the tradeshow presentation helped us a lot as a brand. Today, Tommy Hilfiger has 19 showrooms worldwide and the brand isn't represented anywhere as well as it is there. We have sufficient customers in all countries and don't want to promote expansion further, we'd rather intensify the existing contacts with our customers and build on this. We don't need to go to tradeshow to do this. Nevertheless, we always make great efforts to give a convincing brand appearance there. Large brand presences are seen as a mark of strength, they also add to the attractiveness of the tradeshow. But it's rare really for a customer to be interested in seeing the collection at the show, nobody writes orders anymore anyway. I think that's a shame. I'd like to go back to when every established brand had an immediate and a stock program that you could place orders for at the tradeshow itself. That would need to be generally decided though, everybody needs to pull together to do this so that this proposal will also be accepted by the customers too. In addition, I would use the tradeshow presence to bring the concept of our franchise shop closer to customers. We don't need to show products at the tradeshows anymore that can already be seen in our showrooms. But, you also have to consider with tradeshows how the customer sees them and how he can find his way around. Last summer, the Bread & Butter was a jungle of brands, high113 style in progress

Michi Klemera, owner of Luis Trenker.

quality products were presented next to mass products. Visitors were confused by the unclear structure. Karl-Heinz M端ller is heading in the right direction by streamlining the brand portfolio. Everybody knew that the Bread & Butter previously stood for denim, and adding sportswear also worked well. But brands in the lower price segments should be presented separately from the more high-quality ones. When they're grouped correctly then it can all work under one roof."

www.tommy.com

"A tradeshow is always a positive thing for me. I meet people who are important to me there, make contacts, gather experiences. You can see a lot if you keep your eyes open. Lots of great new things have evolved through this openness again. Of course, we ask ourselves every time whether we should be investing so much money in a booth again. Because whenever I've considered whether we were attracting many new customers or not, the results were often disappointing. We shouldn't be focusing so much on the question "do we really need the tradeshow?", because you don't have a classic win-win situation here. But if we do want to appear, then we want to do it well. There are no half-measures for Luis Trenker. I've been in the business for 32 years and have seen a lot of tradeshows. I was in Hong Kong, in Tokyo, at the White, was one of the first exhibitors at the Bread & Butter in Cologne. And it constantly fascinates me time and again. Nowadays, I showcase Luis Trenker at the Berlin Premium as the customer structure fits well with the brand, in Munich and, successfully for the past ten years, at the Salzburg Tracht & Country. Up until three years ago, our main focus had been the Pitti Uomo, but now we see the same customers as in Berlin without impressing any other Italian dealers. So, we've decided to invest more heavily in Berlin. The wide range of contacts is only possible at tradeshows, you can see the competition and get an impression of what's happening directly in the market. We're much too small a brand for events outside the tradeshows, existing contacts are still maintained but you don't win any new fans. We're wanting to considerably expand in the next three years, and we need new customers to do that. And we find them at the tradeshows." www.luistrenker.com


Felted winter parka with calfskin inserts and opossum trimmed hood precious chamois tanned dear leather jacket


The Cocooning Jacket: Super soft goatskin combined with robust felt


Elegant lamb’s wool coat with a Persian flair


Cool men’s and women’s coat made of hand-dyed goat suede laminated with loden

Bread & Butter Berlin, January 15-17, 2013 www.meindl-fashions.de


THE TALK 147

Bad-mouthing it to death Instead of being happy about the success of a person, brand or trade fair, this country's national pastime is to: Bad-mouth something good until it finally becomes bad. A commentary by Martina M端llner

"Brand XY's boom, it can't keep doing so well for much longer, can it?" A typical comment during a discussion at one of the trade fairs. "95 % sales quotas? They can't keep that up for much longer!" A conclusion our industry generally draws from success. "Let's reduce our order for a bit, who knows, who can tell." After all, experience makes you wiser: "Remember the hype about XY, that was over and done with quickly. We're still stuck with all our T-shirts." What's not mentioned: it's just the last 50. The previous 2,000 that flew off the shelves appears to have been completely forgotten. Even trade fairs know this curse. When it feels as though 500 fewer people are squeezing themselves through the aisles, the fair caravans of tens of thousands are quickly forgotten. "One, two seasons still, then it's over." Our industry's history shows it to be otherwise: Even the fair dinosaurs in Cologne or D端sseldorf held out for a comparatively long time until the final cut arrived. And classic events, such as the Pitti Immagine Uomo fair in Florence, wouldn't exist at all if you listened to the prophecies coming from German-speaking countries. "The key brand isn't

around any more." Somebody complained about one of the brands whose booth they had never even visited - even though they were a customer. Because he only deals with things which are new and exciting. So, it's perfect understandable that key brands go without a presence at the trade fairs for exactly this reason, but it's makes for less doomand-gloom gossip in the fair's hallways. We are the Nostradamus of the fashion industry

But the communication expert can't provide a magic cure-all that doesn't allow bad-mouthing to even begin. Though perhaps, successful parties might not have to go looking for a successful antidote. Those of us who like to join in a swansong so much, perhaps we could just change the record for once. It doesn't have to be Songs of Praise. But perhaps something a little bit more up-tempo might do us all some good!

"Tomorrow is the end of the world, for sure!" We Germans, Austrians and Swiss seem to find great delight in gloomy scenarios. The Euro can't be saved any more, fashion speciality retailers are dying out, the brand world is on the brink of collapse. Have you ever asked yourself why we are so determined to doubt success in our part of the Germanspeaking cultural world? This is a little known phenomenon in some other cultures: Italians have been wearing variations of the same model of Hogan shoe with the same amount of enthusiasm for nearly two decades. And it wouldn't enter our southern friends heads to ask when the hype about a slightly orthopaedic-looking shoe would be over. Nobody feels called upon to prophecy the early death of the brand - and the industry along with it. "There is a culture in German-speaking countries, more in Germany than in Austria, to distance oneself from authority. Accumulating power and influence in this country is not seen as a good thing - quite the opposite, our history, and what we have learned from it, signals to us: "Be careful, keep your distance, question", says somebody who should know: Regina Hanke is head of the local ID institute in Berlin, whose goal is to reinterpret global brands and designs into popular local figures. A worldwide network of independent design studios and communication experts help internationally expanding brands to avoid faux pas on a regional level. style in progress 113


148 THE TALK

"People Expect Visions from Us" The Bread & Butter is shaping up nicely: Positioning is tightened up further with the autumn selection. No start in another place but a new beginning in Berlin. Stephan Huber and Ina Köhler wanted to hear from the Bread & Butter President Karl-Heinz Müller where the focus for the future event will be. Text: Ina Köhler. Photos: Bread & Butter

How did the radical cut from last autumn come about?

Karl-Heinz Müller: On the one hand, we are a successful event - but people were constantly on my back about having something new. If you look how the Bread & Butter has evolved over the years, you'll see that our continuity lies in change - we came back to Berlin three-and-a-half years ago. We had eight events here then, another eight in Barcelona and are back planning our eighth fair in Berlin again. There were a number of rumours about moving last season. There seems to be an inner rhythm in people, a need for innovation. So, I sat there and thought, what can I do now? Rumours like these are expectations. But I think Berlin is right for us and good for the industry. It's not the time for a change of scenery but there had to be change. How have the market's framework conditions altered?

Verticalisation is a key issue in the industry at the moment, not just with H&M and Zara but also within the brands; the former Denim Base is a particularly good example. The Zaras and Mangos of this world are also turning into brands, this is a parallel development. Zara sometimes creates better window displays than some of the fashion houses and they are very quick. There are also less spe113 style in progress

cialised retailers, key accounts are becoming more important. How can a multi-label store position itself amongst this?

And how can a trade fair help it to do this?

We need content development at the Bread & Butter, taking the spirit of the times and brand development into account. There are two options now - either you take on all the brands because they represent part of the market. Fashion houses have adapted in the course of verticalisation, verticalised and filled their sales areas with consumer-oriented goods. If you'd asked me year ago, I would have said: People, I can't stop the flow of the market. In the meantime, however, I've realised that I can't put all the brands at the Bread & Butter under one roof, it doesn't work. So, now there are fewer taking part.... I don't put any great store on an absolute size, the number of visitors in the past couldn't be beaten anyway. In terms of size, what changes are being made?

The number of brands isn't the only thing getting smaller, we are also reducing the net area down to about 6,000 square metres, this corresponds to a gross area of about 10,000 square metres. We are integrating the former Denim Hall's appendices into the hall. Altogether, we are giving up a turnover of about three million euros. We are, however, saving quite a bit since we don't have the annexed halls which cost a lot of money. The turnover we generated with that was bought at a price, It's not enough to streamline the hall areas, the concept of the entire fair needs to be reconsidered, just as the market redefines itself.

so it doesn't hurt us so much. We are also doing without hangar 1 which we'll be using as a logistics area in future. How do you define your fair? As a reflection of the market or as a source of ideas and inspiration?

Clearly the latter - people expect visions of us. Talking to event professionals, the technical level of our events is very high - from


THE TALK 149

Karl-Heinz M端ller: "We want to inspire people with the Bread & Butter and give them ideas."

style in progress 113


150 THE TALK

A lot of brands are blaming us if they're not getting enough visitors. And there are stands where all hell is breaking out because they have a good product and then there are the others where not a lot is happening - of course, everybody wants to benefit from a trade show. A second problem are the stand "Verticalisation is a key issue in the industry at the moment."

castles - some of the brands have a stand that is much too big, it doesn't reflect their relevance in the market. But, fact is, that many brands prefer to stay away rather than reduce the size of their stand. And what new things are being offered to the retail trade?

Smaller, finer, more focussed: In January, the Bread & Butter wants to impress with a revised concept.

emergency escape routes right down to the organisational level. This is expected nowadays. Still, you have to keep providing new topics contextually-speaking. What topics are these?

It's not enough to streamline the hall areas, the concept of the entire fair needs to be reconsidered, just as the market redefines itself. The various segments should be tied much more closely, in a sort of Mix & Match, it's all about communication, about the excitement in staging. We want to create an urban world where the different brands and visitors can communicate with one another. I was thinking about New York: Walking down Fifth Avenue you have skyscrapers to your left and right, that's pretty monotonous. But it then becomes really interesting when you go from Times Square to the Flat Iron Building and later to SoHo - you suddenly get air,

Yes, there are a some halls that work well already, but others will be changed to a greater degree: The L.O.C.K. will remain as it is, there'll be major changes in the Sport & Street hall or in the Fashion Hall. But you can't really think in these classic categories any more: I've impressed this on my team too: There won't be an Area Manager any more. For me, an Area Manager is much too monoculture, you play tennis with one another and I don't want that any more... I want to play football as a team. Everybody's

The markets are becoming more open. A multi-brand store's strength is in picking this up and interpreting it. We want to inspire people with the Bread & Butter and give them ideas. Why shouldn't a hip women's store sell great headphones? And I want people to pause for thought: Brands should reach out to the retail trade more - of course, cash cows are important, they're also important in my stores too. But you have to be able to find new things at a trade fair, things nobody else can find. And ultimately, it's about meeting and sharing - this industry is, and always will be, a People's Business, despite all the digital developments.

"The markets are becoming more open. A multi-brand store's strength is in picking this up and interpreting it."

there's even some open spaces, sometimes one building's higher, sometimes lower, there are things to discover. I've got into my head that you can transfer this feeling into the former Denim Hall. How does it work?

The entire hall will be mixed - smaller and bigger brands - throw in some interesting catering concepts such as a cafĂŠ or a hot dog stand. The exhibitors are going along with it too: Strellson is creating a billboard, G-Star will be standing next to a monumental building, Marc O'Polo has a giant shop window. These are landmarks easily seen from above. Small stands will be placed in the middle where there's something to discover. I really want to encourage communication, anyway, it's going to be great! I also want to break up the well-worn paths running through the halls. Will this mix principle apply to all the halls?

113 style in progress

Standpoints not stand castles: It's not just the former Denim Hall that's undergoing a remix with the Mix & Match principle.

working on the puzzle but there won't be a monoculture any more. How are the brands reacting?

On the one hand, we are having a lot of great reactions. On the other hand, people get confused when you do something new, unless you do it well. Over the years, many exhibitors have got so stuck in their ways keep hugging their stand, even visitors keep treading the same old routes - if you were to start over, it would be much simpler to distribute the stands, for example.


152 THE TALK

Alexander Gedat, new CEO of Marc O’Polo AG: "Sustainability should be more than just a popular phrase!"

113 style in progress


THE TALK 153

"I'm not new here, you know." Alexander Gedat has a simple recipe for continuing the successful Marc O'Polo run: Keep it up! Text: Stephan Huber. Photos: Marc O’Polo

Since October of last year Alexander Gedat has been the new CEO at Marc O’Polo AG, Stephanskirchen. After 44 years at the peak of his life's work, Werner Böck the majority shareholder and, without a doubt, an outstanding entrepreneur has retired into a "non-retirement role" at the pinnacle of the supervisory board. In the knowledge that this step had been prepared in an exemplary manner over the years. So, the change doesn't mean any break in the pattern, just a continuation of the path. Or as Alexander Gedat, who is still continuing sales and marketing as CSO, succinctly puts in his dry manner: "I'm not new here, you know." True. He entered the company in 1995, in 2003 he became part of a dream team with Andreas Baumgärtner - Chairman of the Board for Design, Marketing, Licensing and Production - that had been tied to the company by the unerring instincts of Werner Böck and that was perfectly complemented in 2008 with the addition of Jürgen Hahn as CFO. Get stuck in!

Teamwork with Baumgärtner is very important to Gedat. Neither of them stick stubbornly to their own areas of responsibility. Both of them are equally characterised by a constant yearning to do everything possible for the company and brand. "Get stuck in!" is one of the most seemingly simple principles of Böck's that shapes and shaped the corporate culture in Stephanskirchen. A corporate culture that can also excel in figures. Between 2006 and 2010, Marc O'Polo has grown by 100 per cent. This was no bought growth, it was earned. "Growth is important but not crucial", says Gedat making this clear and continues: "It is our privilege, we don't have to do it." But Gedat wants to do it! He is as much characterised by his healthy ambition as for his ability never to take himself too seriously. It keeps you grounded.

want and need to be an attractive employer. And we want to be a modern company. Sustainability isn't just a popular phrase as far as we're concerned. These investments also significantly contribute towards promoting internationalisation. The second point on Gedat's To Do list. "We focus on qualitative growth in our core markets. We have taken on and learned a lot in the past few years and this has been key in helping us now to open up new markets." Marc O'Polo has been given great impetus through continuous modernisation of the products in combination with intensive communication of desirability and positioning. Retail productivity has also been perfected at the same time, by own retail outlets as a permanent group. Gedat explains the path in three words. "The strong strengthen." Based on this, Marc O'Polo not only wants to make headway into the European markets such as France, the Benelux countries, Poland and Russia but also wants to gain a foothold in China. "However", he says wishing to stress the point, "always with the brand in mind sustainably and cautiously. Economic independence is the third goal. "No banks, no investors!" That has always been one of Werner Böck's major concerns. And that was a wise thing. Giving freedom

And another thing that Alexander Gedat and Andreas Baumgärtner want to keep: Granting freedom! Particularly Campus, the young premium fashion brand, which is to now finally break away from behind its mother's skirts, something not only due to being physically separated at last. "We have invested a great deal. In the product, in staff structures. Now, we need to let the team around Marianne Glaser get on with it. And how have boundaries been set? Alexander Gedat grins: "It's quite simple. I'm not allowed to dress in anything from Campus."

The strong strengthen

He formulates the three central goals for the future and the fact he mentions the first stage is developing into a holistic company, is no mere accident. A nursery school is in the pipeline, the staff canteen is to be converted to organic meals, sensible car sharing models have been introduced and encouraged. Gedat: "These investments all target values that are important to us, but also bring great benefits in competing. We

www.marc-o-polo.com

style in progress 113


154 THE TALK

"We Are Gaining Market Share" 30 years young – the Italian WP Lavori in Corso group marks its anniversary with a book that takes a look at its past. The 30 springtimes provide more than enough good reasons for the owner, Cristina Calori, to take bold steps into the future. A style in progress interview with Creative Director Andrea Cané and owner Cristina Calori. Interview: Martina Müllner. Photos: WP Lavori in Corso

113 style in progress

Your personal birthday present was Baracuta: So how did the first season work out for WP Lavori? Are you satisfied with the results?

Andrea Cané: The first season of Baracuta worked very well in terms of the repositioning strategy, which was ultimately the main goal of the starting season. WP Lovori is working on relaunching the brand worldwide with an approach that is inherently part of the WP Lavori DNA: Starting from its venerable history, with the maximum of respect towards the heritage of the brand, and from the iconic G9 as something that transcends cultural and social aspects, but projects the brand into the future. In keeping with this direction, is the collaboration for the Baracuta Blue Label with former Beams Plus Creative Director Kenichi Kusano and cooperation with several top international retailers, as a special make up for Bergdorf Goodman and Beams Tokyo. The first spring/summer 2013 advertising campaign will see a partnership with the London-based cultural and lifestyle magazine, Jocks and Nerds, who will be collaborating on the creation of the new brand image. The campaign, “Synonimus and Antonymus” will represent the iconicity and cultural /social transcendence of the G9 brand through a series of “portraits of contrasts” - images

of "duets" will represent the history and diversity of the Baracuta G9 jacket through age, lifestyle, class and ethnicity. Each image will portray two people from different backgrounds to show the commonality of the G9 jacket across this broad spectrum. In tough times like this, WP is still growing. How do you manage to be successful when others fail?

Cristina Calori: We are increasing market shares and sales in the European markets, also opening franchise and direct shops both in Italy and Europe. Germany is still the first market after Italy but also Scandinavia and Benelux are going very well. For autumn/winter 2013, another market that will be seeing big increase in penetration will be Russia and Eastern Europe. In Germany from 2009 to 2012 we had a turnover increase of 102%, maintaining the same number of doors but increasing the average order and starting a retail strategy. The Woolrich men’s collection is performing very well, both in terms of outerwear and sportswear. The big novelty for autumn/winter 2013 is the launch of a new Woolrich women’s collection. A new design team has been working on a more feminine and sophisticated collection, strongly linked to the brand heritage, especially regarding original mill and original

historical wool and archive pieces but with a contemporary and stylish approach. The new Woolrich “gentlewoman” will mix romantic gentleness and masculine looks with an easy, clean and natural approach and a sophisticated elegance. The fullness will be feminine, and the fabrics fluid and soft. A particular focus on the Woolrich archive fabrics and drawings: The hunting package program takes inspiration from original archive items and brings them into a new feminine and contemporary dimension and a new range of traditional check wool coats is presented in a wide range of patterns. A limited edition of wool ballerinas comes from a special collaboration with Porselli: founded in Milan in 1919, Porselli is the historical supplier of “ballerinas“ for Milan Teatro alla Scala. All the shoes are still handcrafted and produced in Milan. The Porselli for Woolrich ballerinas are made from the original Woolrich wool patterns and will have a special packaging.

In our last interview you mentioned that own retail should grow to 30 % of WP Lavori's turnover. Is this growth only foreseen in Italy or will there be own retail in other European countries? How many shops are planned for 2013?

Cristina Calori: The retail development is definitely part of our strategy for the future – in 2012,


THE TALK 155

WP Lavori sets great store by Germany, the second most important market after the domestic market. Photo shows the Komet und Helden’s Munich showroom.

Cristina Calori, President of the WP Lavori in Corso group, began 30 years ago in a bold group - and is today a bold entrepreneur.

Creative Director Andrea CanĂŠ has been at Cristina Calori's side from the beginning. Over the 30 years he has matured from product specialist to company strategist.

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156 THE TALK

we opened five Woolrich stores in Europe (Munich – London – Lille – Masstricht – Goteborg) and one WP Store in Italy, in Genoa. The WP retail network today includes twelve WP Stores, nine Woolrich stores and one Barbour store. In a particular way, the figures of the Munich Woolrich store opened in October have been very, very positive right since the beginning. In Germany, we already have 15 new shop-in-shops planned for spring/winter 2013. For 2013, we are increasingly targeting the WP Store development, starting in Italy but with future developments abroad. Last season, you decided not to show at the Bread & Butter in Berlin – will this decision be continued?

Andrea Cané: We will be presenting at the Bread & Butter in January with a WP space in order to celebrate the 30th anniversary and present to the retailers and press the book entitled“ 30 Years Of Research In Style - WP Lavori in Corso”, created and edited by the Canadian team of Inventory, one of the most interesting editorial realities to have recently appeared on the international scene and published by Rizzoli International. The 30th anniversary book is a combination of looking back to day one, revisiting the mission and goals of WP, as well as looking more closely at the past ten years and at what WPLavori has accomplished in the last decade. The aim of the book is to illustrate the last 10 years of WP’s history, following the previous book editions for the first10 and 20 years, and primarily gives a picture of what WP is today, an international group of heritage brands. From the designers WP Lavori has worked with, the brands it has bought and introduced to new markets, the 113 style in progress

WP stores and their innovative research and the people behind WP Lavori who make it work every day: The book showcases the Italian company, its attitude, aesthetics and tastes, along with the people that WP Lavori has been working with for the last 10 years within the industry. WP Lavoris success is made by the people who work for you and the brands. How do you find new talent and how do you make them stay at WP Lavori?

Andrea Cané: The concept of WP Lavori itself attracts people who are curious about historical and innovative brands. I think that the talented are attracted by our philosophy and they then become so passionate about it, this is the key factor to making the company successful. In terms of designer research, we constantly check the market and what the designers are developing. Then I contact those who are most suitable for our portfolio. It’s also very important to have a network of friends in the industry who make suggestions as to which talent to watch.

What are your plans in the www? Do you plan to have an own online store for the brands or for WP Lavori?

Cristina Calori: We have a WP store online but 2013 will be the starting point of a new web project that will include a new European and international ecommerce platform for Woolrich John Rich & Bros, Baracuta and WP Lavori. From 2013, we will be dedicating a lot of energy and investment into developing this area. Thank you for the interview.

WP Lavori in Corso was founded in 1982, the President Cristina Calori generated 115 million euros with a staff of 100. WP Lavori holds worldwide licence and distribution rights for the labels Woolrich John Rich & Bros., Woolrich Woolen Mills, B.D. Baggies and Baracuta. Woolrich Penn-Rich is under licence and distribution for Italy, WP Lavori are European distributors for Blundstone and Save Khaki, Italian distributors for Barbour. In its eleven multi-brand WP stores in Italy, WP also carries other brands that meet the group's philosophy. The group also runs a further nine Woolrich stores and one Barbour store. Brands with history given a new twist are successful in the retail trade of today and are the DNA of the group. www.wplavori.com


158 THE TALK

Anita Tillmann and Norbert Tillmann, are the creative and strategic heads of the tradeshow.

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THE TALK 159

Year Anniversary To mark the tenth anniversary of the Premium Berlin, Anita Tillmann and Norberg Tillman are inviting everybody back to the spot where it all began. Celebrations with media, exhibitors and visitors are to take place in the tunnel. style in progress interviewed Anita Tillmann. Interview: Martina MĂźllner. Photos: Premium, JĂźrgen Schabes

What would the Premium like to have for its tenth anniversary?

Anita Tillmann: A successful event, a tradeshow that attracts a lot of visitors and that makes our exhibitors happy. Because, at the end of the day, we are a service provider and it's our job to make the show good. If we do our job well, then we can be satisfied with ourselves. Are there going to be events and specials for the anniversary?

It all began in an underground train tunnel ten years ago. The premium has been a solid player in Berlin's exhibition scene since then.

Basically, as I said, it's our job to make the show good proving to our international audience that we have the best service. But, of course, we'll also be celebrating. We're having a party at the spot

where it all began: in the underground train tunnel at Potsdamer Platz. In addition, we'll be launching limited editions with a handful of selected exhibitors. These can then only be ordered at the Premium. What milestones have you had in the last ten years?

There were a lot, certainly buying the Station-Berlin property in Luckenwalder Strasse as this has opened up completely new horizons for us. Also very important was establishing the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Berlin through the IMG who, of course, we advised. It was the first time that a Fashion Week took place at the same time as the major tradeshows worldwide - and so an important première. Then, of course, the launch of the F95 store which is more or less an extension of the Premium and which first taught many dealers the importance of the Premium approach: We curate fresh collections every season, look all over the world for the best markets for our exhibitor portfolio. This work is very similar to a retailers - just that a shop owner can't be out and about as much as we can. This is our promise to dealers: We look all over the world for the best and most exciting things and bring them back to Germany. What a deal! I wish more dealers could see, appreciate and reward all this effort - by staying in Berlin a day longer for example and taking the time to immerse themselves in this selection. Were there any critical moments in the last ten years?

Yes, of course, we're not perfect. But we do try to make our mistakes just the once - and quickly learn from them. Looking back, I would say that most of our mistakes were in being too fast, we were ahead of our time. So, it's perhaps a blessing in disguise that the start of the Panorama style in progress 113


160 THE TALK

Berlin as the home town of Premium: The concept has proved to be a good one.

- we advised on the concept for this - has had to be postponed due to circumstances beyond our control. I'm sure the time is ripe for the market to accept the new tradeshow. Three years ago, when we first started thinking about the Panorama, the market possibly might not have been as ready for it. So, every cloud has a silver lining. The tradeshow has matured over the ten years: It's not the agency stands that call the shots anymore, it's the brands themselves...

Ultimately, this is a natural development which says a lot for the strength of the show: In the past, many agencies did a lot of the groundwork for their brands so to speak, proving with these joint stands that the Berlin tradeshow is worth it. Now the brands realise how important Berlin is and the agencies, of course, prefer the companies to book directly. Nevertheless, a good relationship with agencies is very important to us because the agencies in the premium segment are the industry's backbone. If a brand has an established agent, dealers have confidence - and then you can become sustainable as a brand on the German-speaking market. What importance will Berlin

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still have and what role does the Premium assign itself in the tradeshow events?

I believe that having such an extensive range only does Berlin's prominence good. With the Premium, the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Bread & Butter and Panorama, the location of the tradeshow stands on four solid pillars, I don't think you can honestly question the importance of Berlin or these events at all. Added to this are a number of side events and other events that enrich the tradeshow. Berlin is the only city in Germany that has any significance in the fashion business on an international level.

Premium International Fashion Trade Show celebrated its launch in 2003, now nearly 900 brands and around 1,400 collections showcase at the Premium Berlin today. The dates for the anniversary events: 15th - 17th January 2013. www.premiumexhibitions.com


A. Walde,“Der Aufstieg“, Copyright by VBK

www.diehinterhofagentur.de Handstich – Wool & Co – Modfitters – Jey Coleman – Camplin – Etiqueta Negra – Tortuga Academy – Take a Way – Mc Alson


162

THAT‘S

MY JOB

The Denim Hunter

Indiana Jones would turn pale

Brit Eaton is considered to be the best denim hunter in the world. His often adventurous search for vintage jeans leads him to the most remote of places in underground mines and shafts. During a quick stopover in New Jersey, the ambitious American spoke about his life as a "fashion archaeologist." Text: Odessa Legemah. Photos: Brit Eaton

Raiders of the Lost Ark. Britt Eaton proudly presents a current find.

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Your career is extraordinary and quite multifaceted: You are being thrown in jail in Greece, drove taxi in Madison and sold ice cream beaches on the north sea. How did you find your way into the fashion business by hunting denim?

I guess I just have a vivid imagination that sees potential in things a lot of people would pass over or discard as worthless. Now, when I go on buying trips, I always say "I'm searching for age but I'll settle for charac-

ter". So I piled up hundreds of thousands of cool looking old vintage workwear clothes and the fashion companies started to hear about the collection and come visit me. From there, word of mouth led me to more and more success both on the buying end and on the selling end. For me, I get a huge thrill from finding something valuable and then there is also a lot of satisfaction in knowing my long term clients so well that, sometimes just seconds after I discover something


THAT‘S MY JOB 163

amazing, I have already decided who is probably going to love the item the best. Many people do not even know the term "Denim Hunter". How would you describe your profession?

One part luck, one part skill, one part determination, one part belief and a whole lot of risking my neck!

Your company is called Carpe Denim and you sell pieces to diverse clients as Hollywood wardrobe departments, private collectors, and companies as Levi's, Ralph Lauren, the Gap and Dickies. Why is the industry fascinated with vintage denim?

I have said this before and I will say it again: every single pair of jeans fades in a unique manner; they are unique like snowflakes and like artwork to guys like me as well as designers. Even though I have looked at millions of jeans over the years, I still find details and patterns I have never seen before, especially with the super early 1860's-1880's stuff that I have gotten better and better at hunting down as my skills and interests have increased. Ironically, it 1997 I was excited if I found a pair of jeans from 1970 , but now it's 2012 and it takes jeans older than 1940 to give me the same level of excitement. I guess this is the same with any collector. As you learn more, you want the best and now, 20 years since

I first learned of old jeans having value, it takes dynamite to get me high. So, to sum up the answer to this question: the fashion industries fascination with old denim is the same as mine. Each jean tells a unique story and has a unique history, and one could say a jean wears its history on itself. You see a paint splotch or an old repair and you wonder how that came to pass? So, life is more interesting when we see things that we have never seen before, and vintage denim satisfies the basic human need to find joy in seeing things that we have never before seen Where do you find the right spots to explore your vintage pieces?

By finding millions of WRONG spots over the last 20 year ! As fashion archaeologist do you sometimes feel like a time traveller?

I would respond to this by saying if you want to learn how the romans lived their lives, then try to act like a roman and if you want to find something left behind by the romans, go to where the romans lived and think like a roman thought‌ The journey for me in my denim hunter development has been a very broad and culturally educational one. I literally have found things simply because I always try to put myself in the shoes of people that have gone before me and, just like an actor immersing themselves in a role, when

Ready sorted. Especially rare pieces fetch top dollar at the Rose Bowl Market in Pasadena.

you make the mental connection between now and then, you find things beyond imagine You once said that you are the best in this country finding vintage denim, maybe the best worldwide. Do you have international competitors in this field?

Honestly, I don’t consider anyone a competitor anymore. In my opinion, I have won the denim olympics 20 years in a row and now I am semi-retired and sit on the global denim seekers advisory commitee !...obviously, joking here, but the truth is that people I used to think of as a competitors I now consider collaborators.....either that or they are not around anymore. This business has a karma to it that eventually shakes off anyone but the purists. I used to get jealous and motivated if someone else had a major score and found a valuable pair of jeans, but I have come to realize that in order to keep my "hobby and passion" globally relevant, it is good for the whole industry when more people get into the denim seeking business.

Are you interested in fashion design?

Of course, but in all honesty, only in the way it affects my business. Here is no doubt in my mind that if jeans one day go completely out of style, the value of my collection will be decimated...so, a perfect Brit Eaton fashion world in 2013 would look like a us mining town photo from the 1920s! There are various categories and classifications for the earliest types of jeans. How do you learn "denim hunting".

Step A: go to the second hand store, buy a pair of jeans you think looks old, come home and find out they are worthless; Step B: ...go back to the store and try again. Repeat this process over and over until you are completely broke...by this point, you should have the whole thing figured out ! Thank you for speaking with us!

What does a typical day look like in the life of Brit Eaton?

The Eatons - a denim-mad family.

There is no such thing as a "normal" day in my life. I am the most aggressively A.D.D. guy you'll ever meet, I have been fortunate enough that my denim addiction disease has led me into a lifestyle where I my A.D.D. is pacified by having the freedom to pursue whatever daily dream I might dream up to do on any given day. style in progress 113


DOG DAYS ARE OVER Photos: Dรถrte Haupt, www.doertehaupt.de Styling & Production: so wow - Agi Habryka, www.sowow.de Models: Boris, Klas, Lars (www.sowow.de) and Mo, the dog Illustrations/Artwork: Conny Dreher, www.atelierconradi.de Special thanks to: Frontlineshop

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MODE 165

PHOTO LEFT PAGE Cap: Wemoto Necklace: Gurke by lenaloeber.net T-Shirt: Carhartt Dungarees: G-Star Raw Shoes: Pointer Cap: Obey Bowtie: Stylist‘s own Shirt: Roy Rogers Jeans: Closed Shoes: Vans PHOTO this PAGE Shirt: Hartford

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FROM LEFT: Cap: Wemoto T-Shirt: Olow Jeans: Topdog Shoes: Nike 6.0 Cap: The Quiet Life T-Shirt: Wemoto Jeans: AG Adriano Goldschmied Shoes: Lacoste Shirt: Antony Morato T-Shirt: T-Library Jeans: Drykorn Shoes: Supra

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Cap: Analog MODE 167 T-Shirt Chunk Jeans: Lois Shoes: Converse

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Cap: Analog 168 MODE T-Shirt: Chunk Jeans: Lois Shoes: Converse

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FROM LEFT: MODE 169 Cap: Stetson T-Shirt: Eleven Paris Jeans: Nudie Shoes: Vans Cap: Stetson T-Shirt: Eleven Paris Jeans: Roy Rogers Shoes: Lacoste

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FROM LEFT: 170 MODE Sunglasses: Funk Mask: Stylist‘s own T-Shirt: Bench Jeans: Antony Morato Shoes: Gravis Shirt: Pence Longsleeve: Superdry Jeans: AG Adriano Goldschmied Shoes: Palladium

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FROM LEFT: MODE 171 Cap: Carhartt T-Shirt: Wemoto Jeans: Gilded Age Shoes: G-Star Raw Cap: Cleptomanicx Shirt: Replay Jeans: Lacoste Shoes: Vans Socks: Topman

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Let's get UP, let's get DOWN! Photos: Felix Krüger, www.felixkrueger.com Styling and Production: Annika Becker & Agi Habryka Hair/Make-up: Bjørn Krischker, www.bjoernkrischker.com Model: Kim Ackermann, www.thespecial.org Photo Assistant: Marcel Simon Schmidt

Glasses: Andy Wolf Jacket: Blauer USA Top: Paul & Joe Trousers: Paul & Joe Shoes: Stylist's own 113 style in progress


Jacket: Cinque Top: Bloom Skirt: Stylist's own style in progress 113


Jacket: Schneiders 174 FASHION Bandeau dress Stylist's own Blouse: Witty Knitters Necklace: Yulyaffairs Bow: Stylist's own Bracelet: Steven Shein Ring: Stella & Dot

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Jacket: Hetreg贸 FASHION 175 Top: Cinque Collars: Klara Kadlecova Ring: Stylist's own Jeans: J Brand

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Jacket: Peuterey 176 FASHION Trousers, top: Coast Weber Ahaus Rings: Stylist's own Bag: Liebeskind Shoes: Robert Clergerie

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Jacket: C Studio FASHION 177 Blouse: Paul & Joe Shorts: Paul & Joe Shoes: A Cuckoo Moment

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Jacket: Mabrun 178 FASHION Blouse: Hartford Jeans: Dr. Denim Shoes: Robert Clergerie

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FASHION 179

Glasses: Andy Wolf Jacket: C Studio Pullover: Bloom Skirt: Barbara Lohmann style in progress 113


Photos: Federica Roncaldier, www.federicaroncaldier.com; Styling & Production: Friederike von Bock, www.sowow.de; Hair/Make-up: Memo Schmage, www.memoschmage.com; Model: Britta via VIVA Models, www.vivamodels.de; Photo-Assistant: Alexander Wohlrab, www.alex-wohlrab.de; Styling Assistant: Christina van Zon, www.christinavanzon.com; Special thanks to: Frontlineshop

The Girl is a Lady

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Dress, top: Barre Noire Necklace: Stella & Dot Ring: Cheap Monday Skirt: G-Star Shoes: Buffalo Socks: Falke

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182 FASHION

Top: Karlotta Wilde Necklace: Stylist’s own Belt: Barre Noire Belt with Dots: Herr von Eden Skirt: Cheap Monday Tights: Falke Shoes: Hugo 113 style in progress


FASHION 183

Coat: Hien Le Bracelet: Stella & Dot Tights: Wolford Shoes: Jeffrey Campbell style in progress 113


184 FASHION

Glasses: Mykita Jacket: Baum und Pferdgarten Top: Stine Goya Skirt Nümph Gloves: Sessun Shoes: Fornarina Socks: Stylist’s own

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Coat: Ep_Anoui FASHION 185 Dress: By Marlene Birger Bag: Hugo

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Coat: Drykorn 186 FASHION Dress: Herr von Eden Blouse: American Apparel Shoes: Rosa Rot Tights: Wolford

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FASHION 187

Cape: Sebastian Ellrich Dress, blouse, Border: Sava Nald Necklace: Diesel Shoes: Buffalo style in progress 113


Photos: Federica Roncaldier, www.federicaroncaldier.com Styling & Production: Friederike von Bock, www.sowow.de Hair/Make-up: Memo Schmage, www.memoschmage.com Model: Johann 端ber VIVA Model Management, www.vivamodels.de Assistance: Alexander Wohlrab, www.alex-wohlrab.de Christina van Zon, www.christinavanzon.com

Urban Forest

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Cap: Friendly Hunting Scarf: Friendly Hunting Backpack: Luis Trenker Waistcoat: Cervolante Denim shirt: Barbour Trousers: Habsburg Shoes: Red Wing

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Parka: Woolrich 190 FASHION Jumper: Strellson Shirt: Arido Trousers: Scotch & Soda Shoes: Wolverine

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Jacket:FASHION Swiss Chriss 191 Shirt: Steiner 1888 Trousers: Luis Trenker Boots: Handstich

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Parka: Parajumpers Suit: Windsor Jumper: Strellson Shirt: Hartford Belt: Luis Trenker Shoes: Handstich

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FASHION 193

Duffle coat: Windsor Jumper: Henry Cotton‘s Shirt: Interlectual Leisure Trousers: Peuterey Shoes: Handstich style in progress 113


194 FASHION

Jacket: Mountain Force Jumper: Friendly Hunting Trousers: Han Kjøbenhavn Shoes: Wolverine 113 style in progress


Jacket: Meindl FASHION 195 Scarf: Friendly Hunting Trousers: SLVR by Adidas Shoes: Red Wing

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196 IN STORE

A Homogeneous Whole: The gallery from the Viennese Palais Liechtenstein integrates seamlessly into the interior decoration of the new 14 oz. in Berlin's Kurf端rstendamm.

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IN STORE 197

A Homage to Berlin 14 oz. / berlin. The new 14 oz. on Kurfürstendamm is setting standards – not only when it comes to architecture. The western branch of Karl-Heinz Müller's store in Haus Cumberland is truly grand, spanning 600 square metres, it's a concept worth seeing. Text: Ina Köhler. Photos: Ingo Robin

Cary Grant donned his effortless smile – the black and white photo over the counter of the new 14 oz. stands for subtle, masculine luxury. And is key to the concept, on which the store relies. It was one the events of the autumn for the industry, when, in October, the red carpets were rolled out over the heated pavements of Kurfürstendamm 193/194. Karl-Heinz Müller had issued invites to the opening of his third store. The 600 square metre store is setting standards, and not only when it comes to architecture. Originally, Haus Cumberland, once a boarding style in progress 113


198 IN STORE

Spoilt for choice: In Karl-Heinz M端ller's new store, too, everything revolves around the blue product.

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IN STORE 199

house in Wilhelminian times, was supposed to become a luxury hotel, a sort of second Adlon in the West. Patina, bricks and a library

For the interior decoration alone, this is worth a trip to Kurfürstendamm. With a light touch, the architects integrated an old art nouveau library from the Viennese Palais Liechtenstein into the new 14 oz. So custom made that many guests are under the illusion that this gallery was always there, just as with its ceiling which seems old and which in reality was transformed into this state by a skilful painter. Nothing is coincidental here, everything on site has been agreed upon, worked on and patinated until it finally "fits in." There are some details that the guests don't consciously notice – like the specially-made spotlights on the ceiling, which hark back to film studios in the golden '20s, and which fill the whole room with warm light, or the electronically-adjustable LEDs in the library wall, with which the products can be bathed in different atmospheres. There are separate entrances for men and women, the back part of the store links both. The product range comprises luxury items that don't rely on big designer names, but on a quality product. "The same woman who wears a Dior dress in the evening, for example, obviously also needs an outfit for the daytime," says Karl-Heinz Müller. Solid oak, rather than veneer

The use of old and new building materials with spolia and set pieces made of a combination of "raw luxury" and new technology was already characteristic of

"You can only develop this type of furniture on site, and this requires time." Karl-Heinz Müller, owner of 14 oz.

A launch with friends: from the left Jason Denham, Karl-Heinz Müller, Adriano Goldschmied and Nigel Cabourn.

the first 14 oz., which Müller likes to call his "head office." The look of the new store is, no doubt thanks to the height of the ceilings, more spacious and more imposing. Nothing was quickly thrown together here: solid oak instead of veneer, real pieces rather than plastic veneering, real brick walls instead of fake wallpaper. "You can only develop this type of furniture on site, and this requires time," describes Karl-Heinz Müller, who clearly enjoyed working on his new project. As well as the others, who helped him with it. F.C. Gundlach, a German fashion photography grand seigneur, personally chose black and white motifs from decades gone by for the store. It's not only a homage to Berlin, a reminiscence of the '50s, when Ku'damm was still the centre of fashion and German couturiers like Uli Richter shaped the look. In other respects too, the future is telling the team around the trade fair boss to "go west": the headquarters of the Bread & Butter will move from Central Berlin to Haus Cumberland, and will take up two storeys and 800 square metres.

14 oz. in Haus Cumberland Theodor-Heuss Straße 15, Kurfürstendamm 193–194, 10707 Berlin/Germany Opening: October 2012 Owners: Karl-Heinz Müller Retail space: 600 sqm. Women's labels: 45 r.p.m., AG Adriano Goldschmied, Barbour, Bergfabel, Blauer, Canada Goose, Closed, Cruciani, Current/Elliott, Denham The Jeanmaker, Drykorn, Equipment, Fidelity, Gloverall, Happy Sheep, Hunter, Inis Meáin, Jbrand, Johnbull, Lavenham, Liebig, Ludwig Reiter, Mackintosh, Majestics, Meindl, Nudie Jeans & Co., Sahaja, Shoto, Splendid, Tricker’s, True Royal, Windsor, Woolrich Brands for Men: 3×1 by Scott Morrison, 45 r.p.m., Alden, Andersen-Andersen, Atelier LaDurance, barbour, Bergfabel, B.D. Baggies, Buttero, Canada Goose, Carhartt, Closed, Denham The Jeanmaker, Drykorn, Edwin, Gloverall, G.R.P., Haversack, Hunter, Inis Meáin, Jean Shop, Lavenham, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, Ludwig Reiter, Meindl, Merz B. Schwanen, Mackintosh, Monitaly, Momotaro, Nigel Cabourn, Nudie Jeans Co., Quoddy, Prps, Red Wing Shoes, Salvatore Piccolo, Schiesser Revival, Shoto, Spiewak, Schott N.Y.C., Tellason, Ten C, Tricker’s, Viberg Boot, Windsor, Wolverine, Woolrich, Yuketen Accessories: Ben Alder, Borsalino, Ca4la, Drakes, Dukes Finest Vintage Artisan, Felisi, Filson Bags, GlobeTrotter, Headhunter, Himalaya Cashmere, King Baby Studio, Laco, Midori, Mühlbauer, Pantherella, Piet Breinholm, Stetson

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200 IN STORE

Bright Sparks on the Back Burner Meindl Authentic Luxury / Munich. The right idea at the right time in the right place. Or, the right place at the right time for the right idea...that‘s it! Text: Stephan Huber. Photos: Meindl Authentic Luxury

found, even on closer inspection. So Rolf Griesinger quite simply grabbed it with both hands. On spec. Because it wasn't until this had been done that he called Markus Meindl, Managing Director and Head Designer of Meindl clothing. "Hi Markus, I have an idea..." Honest and without kitsch

Because the idea for a Meindl Lifestyle Store was sparked by Rolf Griesinger, Managing Director of the fashion agency "International Mode GmbH" with headquarters in Munich, as early as 2009. At the opening of the Meindl flagship store at the Kirchanschöring headquarters. "I loved the product, its haptic, its modernness. I was really taken with it that evening. And it was clear that Munich is the perfect location." Sometimes you need luck

But, even for a man as wellconnected as Griesinger, finding the right location in Munich can still be a bit of a problem and as there were still lots to do, the spark remained on the back burner for the time being. But then! Then a stroke of good luck got the thing rolling again. Griesinger was offered the perfect shop at one of the most Munich of Munich's addresses, "Am Kostor" a mere stone's throw away from the Maximilianstrasse. At terms, that by Munich standards, were almost suspicious. But there weren't any catches to be 113 style in progress

And because Markus Meindl had also had the idea of an authentic store in Munich going on the back burner for a while, the two of them quickly struck an agreement. The name was also found quickly too. "Meindl Authentic Luxury", short and sweet and to the point. In terms of the product as much as the shop. Together with the Salzburg architects office "raum_bau : architekten", Griesinger and Meindl found the perfect means of implementing their vision. A fine balance between tradition and modern. The materials used, oak, raw iron and leather, were combined together perfectly to unfold their own unified strength. One special highlight can be seen in the smoothed copper floor which will produce a more intense patina over time. This honest store design is completely free of kitsch and provides a harmonious framework for the high-quality, handcrafted Meindl products. After all, the product is the main focus and covers 155 m2 and three intelligently-interwoven levels. Without any elitist posturing and despite the exclusivity of the materials and price range. People shouldn't be frightened

Rolf Griesinger: „I want the customers to handle the merchandise.“

of entering the place at all. Rolf Griesinger: "I want the customers to handle the merchandise so they can feel what's special about it. The haptic is a large part of what Meindl is about." The Meindl range was planned to be selective and harmonious right from the start and be complemented through the addition of special products. These include shirts by Salvatore Piccolo, belts by Dukes and bags by Filson and have been added since the launch. Griesinger and Meindl have exclusive Meindl

shoes produced by the K+S shoe manufacturer. The stylish sneakers are made from the finest kidskin velour or the super-soft boots from chamois-tanned deerskin have emerged as winning products. Griesinger is especially delighted that the public is a mixed bag. "Some people make a special trip to get here, others simply drop in as they're shopping. We get young and old, tourists from the four corners of the earth, but mainly locals, they immediately respected the shop at the heart of their stamping grounds as genuine." That is an accolade that cannot be appreciated highly enough for anybody who knows Munich a little. Meindl Authentic Luxury Am Kostor 1, 80331 Munich/Germany www.meindl-munich.com. Opening: September 2012. Owner: Rolf Griesinger. Staff: 3. Retail space: 155 sqm. Labels: Meindl, Salvatore Piccolo, Filson, Dukes, Care Label, Dating New York.


IN STORE 201

The honest store design completely free of kitsch provides the perfect framework for the Meindl products.

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202 IN STORE

Good Stories Ecke 32 / Constance. Everything done correctly: Lars and Tony Nehren's new Ecke 32 store focuses on the authentic, something which really keeps their customers happy. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Ecke 32

The establishment originated in the 14th century and is also homely and tasteful on the inside, with oak parquet and and support beams on the ceiling. The store is buzzing, it's the weekend. A couple are having the Filson bag philosophy explained to them while their children lounge about on the leather sofa, engrossed in a Donald Duck book. Regular customers come in and are greeted like old friends. Ecke 32 is the name of the store that was opened by Lars Nehren and his father Tony in March of last year, with brands such as Denham, Edwin, Red Wing Schiesser Revival. "Nobody waited for us, but it is exactly the type of concept that was missing here in Constance," says Lars Nehren. Pure

Lars Nehren grew up with retail, his family ran a high-quality shoe store in Koblenz for 50 years. He arrived at his own store by way of a detour. First, he ended up in Switzerland, after St. Gallen, where he worked in key account management at

He doesn't want to be led by trends: Lars Nehren, owner of Ecke 32.

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Volvo. But the dream of owning his own store grew. Originally, it was to be a peak performance store in Switzerland, but his visits to trade fairs, especially the L.O.C.K. Area the Bread & Butter, led the 30 year-old down his own path. Supported by his father who brings experience and enthusiasm, and sometimes joins him in the store itself. "Many find this father-son line-up very appealing,'' says Lars Nehren. "We make many decisions together, for example when it comes to the budget. I decide on the appearance of the store and the brand portfolio myself."

Tellason from San Francisco. "An honest product, timeless and of very high quality," describes Lars Nehren. "People are sick of mass production." The coherent selection for women fits in with this and adds to the men's concept. It should also continue to grow as a result of demand from such brands as B.D. Baggies, Bellerose and Hartford. "Our concept was immediately successful in the first season, that assured us," says Lars Nehren happily. "We can say with pride that we bought well."

Honest and High Quality

He doesn't want to be led by trends, favouring small labels with good stories. Like Merz b. Schwanen with Henleys, which are produced traditionally on ancient knitting machines in the Swabian Alps, only an hour's drive from Constance. Or Thom Krom from Hannover, who puts impressions he gathered as a trend scout into practice with a stylish collection made of organic cotton. Just like the small but excellent jeans range

Ecke 32 Wessenbergstrasse 32, 79462 Constance/Germany, T 0049.7531.22608 www.ecke32.com Opening: March 2012 Owners and CEOs: Lars Nehren, Tony Nehren Staff: 1 Retail space: 135 sqm Women's labels: AG Adriano Goldschmied, B.D. Baggies, Bellerose, Buttero, Denham the Jeanmaker, Gitta Plotnicki, Levi's Vintage Clothing, Levi's Made and Crafted, Red Wing Shoes, Schiesser Revival, Thom Krom Men's labels: ADenim, B.D. Baggies, Buttero, Canada Goose. Danolis, Denham the Jeanmaker, Edwin, Hartford, Japan Blue, Levi's Vintage Clothing, Merz b. Schwanen, Momotaro, Nigel Cabourn, PRPS, Preventi, Red Wing Shoes, Reyn Spooner, Rokker Jeans, Schiesser Revival, Sportswear reg., Tellason, Thom Krom, Topo Design, Wolverine 1000mile Accessories: Blui, by Jeberg, Filson, Michael Sans Berlin, Tanner Goods, Topo Design


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Ecke 32 has a strong signature, this is made clear by the feedback received in store and on Facebook. Its location in Constance plays its part, with tourists and Switzerland at its front door.

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204 IN STORE

Loft feeling meets livingroom atmosphere: Bel Étage by Bungalow opens in Stuttgart's city centre.

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IN STORE 205

Dressing up is not what we do Bel Étage by Bungalow / Stuttgart. Launching a women's store with Bel Étage by Bungalow was both a logical step and a challenge for Uwe Maier. After six years in the service of men's fashion, the Bungalow boss is daring to enter a terrain dominated by femininity. Text: Jeanette Fuchs. Photos: Bel Étage

Uwe Maier is a man of very few words. Typically male? Not necessarily, the Bungalow boss immediately puts an end to this gender stereotyping: Just as there are women who can power shop and be done and dusted in five minutes, there are men who can spend a leisurely three hours on the lookout for their favourite pieces. To put it in a nutshell, "there are these kinds, and those kinds", says the experienced industry insider. Fashionable, but Not Loud

But the positive excitement that has been hanging in the air since Bel Étage opened in July 2012, does have more of a feminine nature to it. Even if the typical Bel Étage customer described by Maier is "fashionably broadminded, but never loud". Concise and expressive words lie on the lips of the managing director of Bungalow and Bel Étage; words like quality, superiority and understatement. When asked how he would dress his favourite customer, he lets descriptions such as perfect fit and workmanship fall. That these are always in line with the individual needs of the woman in question, goes without saying. "We don't want to dress people up", the Bel Étage owner is quite

clear about that. Stooping to pigeon-hole thinking isn't something that Uwe Maier allows himself to do either: "Nowadays, it's difficult to stick an age or a gender onto target groups. You run the risk of excluding potential customers doing that." Fancy some Advice

Bungalow has been a constant on the Stuttgart fashion scene for six years, and although it shows the direction for the female counterpart, it should still allow sufficient space for individual growth - such are the specifications. Although both shops carry the same signature in terms of statement and style, they have made it a declared objective to create an independent store out of Bel Étage. However, it is still rooted in the same basis: The two pillars of service and advice are just as appreciated by the female clientèle as by the regular customers in the gentleman's department. "We love giving advice and enjoy serving. The concept is constructed in such a way that we also have the necessary time to provide advice", says the fashion pro. But it is also still "perfectly okay" if no advice is needed. But when it is needed, then the customer has our undivided attention". Great attention has also been paid to the product range: Well-known labels rub along with other, as yet unknown, newcomers and a great deal of effort and care has gone into their selection. Exciting Game of Contrasts

The chosen location of Bel Étage by Bungalow also creates deliberate contrasts: The fashionable items are presented on the first floor of the Bar Suite 212 in Theodor-Heuss-Strasse, the modern architecture provides an exciting foil for the soft flowing materials. The wide expansive window front is a key factor in creating the flair of an urban loft, but doesn't take anything away from the cosy living-room atmosphere. It's fair to presume that women who've previously been accompanying

Uwe Maier: The men's fashion pro is daring to enter female territory.

their partners to Bungalow men's store are now finding their way to the Bel Étage. However, attempts are also being made to win over new customer groups. The online shop is one of a number of things providing incentives. It underwent a relaunch at the same time as the store was opened and, according to Maier, also provides a source of information for stationary customers. Excitement – perhaps it's not just a female phenomenon? After the Bel Étage opening, Uwe Maier is anything other than serene: "It never stops. True, there is a certain amount of routine that comes with it, but it is still remains exciting." Bel Étage by Bungalow Theodor-Heuss Strasse 15, 70174 Stuttgart/Germany Opening: July 2012 Owner: Uwe Maier Staff: 4 Retail space: 100 sqm Labels: Acne, Alexander Wang, Aspesi, Attic & Barn, Boglioli, Brogden, Carven, ChatCwin, Cruciani, Duffy, Helmut Lang, Hope, Iti, Joseph, Maison Martin Margiela, Nude, Steffen Schraut, T by Alexander Wang, Tibi NY, Tomas Maier, Tonello, Vanessa Bruno. Jewellery: Saskia Dietz Shoes: Acne, Common Projects

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206 IN STORE

An imposing staircase invites you to walk through the twisting rooms in Fivestory.

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IN STORE 207

As She Likes It fivestory / New York. Aged 26, Claire Distenfeld is opening an exclusive boutique on the Upper East Side – and its approach is impressively unconventional. Text: Petrina Engelke. Photos: Fivestory

She likes it, or she doesn't like it - and that's that! Using this as her criteria is exactly how Claire Distenfeld makes decisions on what she wants to have in her exclusive Fivestory store. It could be a chunky knit skirt by Alexander McQueen, a delicate Gracelette necklace, a leather jacket by BLK DNM or a Steiff teddy bear. Claire Distenfeld is only 26 and she has internalised the "Think Big" motto. After leaving university, she initially worked in the gallery scene, but soon discovered that retail is her true calling. With the financial support of her father, a former luxury goods importer, and using Parisian Colette as her inspiration, she opened a department store. A store that doesn't exactly have a huge selection but is impressively exclusive. Fivestory displays the most beautiful pieces from a collection of around 150 labels in a five-storey townhouse. Not, however, as the name suggests on all of the floors but only on the lower two, connected by a marble staircase. Journey of Discovery in the Twisting Townhouse

It's easy to imagine the grand entrance fine young ladies might have made here when an admirer appeared to take them out to a night at the opera (the houses

was built in 1881). Entering the building as a house guest, you are met by a huge floral display resting on a glass table – pearlembroidered trousers and a stylish handbag lie underneath. After all, it is clientèle that Claire Distenfeld welcomes here, not guests for a dinner party. She wants to send them on a journey of discovery, she says. Interior designer Ryan Korban has arranged everything with this in mind: A luxury backgammon set rests on a corner sofa, an antique wall fountain babbles happily in an alcove and stairs leading up and down through Fivestory take you through small rooms, passed display cabinets, clothes rails and glass tables. It's as though you are rummaging through a friend's walk-in wardrobe, not just so you can admire her dress taste, but so that you can admire her stylish husband and smartly-dressed children, too. Not to mention the elegant evenings with art plates and fine candles.

site is Cartier, around the corner is Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Proenza Schuler and Jil Sander. But Claire Distenfeld isn't the least bit intimidated by them. From a very young age, the native New Yorker has travelled around the globe, creating a kaleidoscope out of all the museum visits, foreign streets and beautiful shops – and she does, what she likes. Using this as her mantra, she sets herself free from the constraints of a flagship store. While the neighbourhood is redecorating their display windows in the aftermath of New York's fashion week, Distenfeld jets off to Paris. To look to see what she likes – and what she doesn't.

What Fivestory Has that Sets them Apart from the Neighbouring Flagship Stores

Others start off with a small shop in an area they can afford. Fivestory has a fine address on New York's Upper East Side and the competition have some pretty big names: Directly oppoFivestory 18 East 69th Street, 10065 New York/USA, T 001.212.2881338, www.fivestoryny.com. Opening: April 2012. Owner: Claire Distenfeld. Staff: 14 Retail space: 300 sqm. Labels women: Acne, Balmain, BLK DNM, House of Holland, Hussein Chalayan, MCQ, Peter Pilotto, Thakoon, Timo Weiland, Versus and much more besides. Labels men: Adam Kimmel, Comme des Garcons, Maison Kitsune, Neighbourhood, Wings + Horns and much more besides. Shoes: Aperlai, Nike, Nina Ricci, Sergio Rossi and much more besides. Jewellery & Accessories: Aurelie Biedermann, Begg, Gracelette, Oliver Peoples, Shourouk, Tony Hawks and much more besides

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208 IN STORE

A clear thing: The focus is on the premium range.

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IN STORE 209

From the Heart of West Berlin Amorph Black / Berlin. With their premium shop right next to the Kurfürstendamm, Iris Jorde and Christian Brennenstuhl are fulfilling their dreams. Extraordinary items for an informed, highfashion clientele. Text: Jan Joswig. Photos: Amorph Black

All good things come in threes. Amorph Black is the third women's fashion store Iris Jorde and Christian Brennenstuhl have opened in West Berlin. Since 2008, the Amorph Concept Store and Amorph Blue have been doing pioneering work for progressive, young designers on the sleepy Westside. Now the old City West has been reawakened, from the Bikini Haus to Haus Cumberland. The Kurfürstendamm is on its way. With Amorph Black, the self-confessed "complete Westsiders" Jorde and Brennenstuhl used their intimate knowledge of the area, and they set up their premium store in the very place where the Kurfürstendamm is once again becoming sophisticated and luxurious, without having to flaunt or be flashy. With Amorph Black, the two adventurous fashion enthusiasts have managed a further pioneering achievement in the rapidly transforming Charlottenburg – and they have managed to set up the exact store they have always dreamed of. No Bland Mediocrity

In the minimalistic, elegant interior that works with dynamic alignments and shiny surfaces, Jorde and Brennenstuhl present their unconventional mix of established names and new discoveries. Alongside Acne, hang washable silk tops by Toupy, beside T by Alexander Wang, you can find chunky knitwear by

Iris Jorde and Christian Brennenstuhl in their dream store.

Berlin designer Maiami. Jorde and Brennenstuhl are expanding their own label, Amorph, from scarves to T-shirts and cashmere sweaters. In order to be successful in an increasingly cramped market, you must go against the tide. You have to be a brave forager, searching the more secret corners of the fashion world and making clear statements. In these worrying times of conformity, individual distinctiveness is the best way to surprise and delight your customers. This is how Christian Brennenstuhl summarises the philosophy: "Buy extremes, then you'll be successful. Don't go for bland mediocrity." Iris Jorde adds: "We had a label like Iro for quite a while before it became an InStyle talking point. We had high top sneakers very early, as far back as last year. Everyone only Isabel Marant's in the magazines. We had the good fortune to buy them from Serafini and Monika Corte. The customers quickly notice something like that – and also that the Isabel Marant sneakers cost 550 euros, ours cost 250 euros." Well-Prepared for the Hype

Every gem has its own shelf – the wall of shoes by Amorph Black.

Just six months after opening at the end of March 2012, word of the store has spread so rapidly that the first brands are already coming knocking. Jorde and Brennenstuhl will be viewing Forte Forte in Milan, and, in Paris, Helmut, the second line by Helmut Lang. The jeans brand

1921 Jeans cooperated with the two for an exclusive trousers design, "finished by Amorph." With a top brand portfolio at a top location, Jorde and Brennenstuhl are delighted about the West Berlin hype. They back it up with substance. Christian Brennenstuhl's eyes light up: "Amorph Black is the essence of everything that we always wanted to be."

Amorph Black Schlüterstrasse 37, 10629 Berlin/Germany, T0049.30.60924916 shop.amorph-berlin.com Opening: March 2012. Owners: Iris Jorde, Christian Brennenstuhl Staff: 4. Retail space: 150 sqm Labels: 1921 Jeans, Acne, Amorph, Avelon, Forte Forte, Goldsign Jeans, Helmut, Humanoid, IRO, Lala Berlin, Maiami, Marlene Birger, Mother Jeans, Roberto Collina, T by Alexander Wang, Toupy Shoes: Acne, Malene Birger, Monika Corte, Serafini

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210 IN STORE

Confessional and Padded Cell Stoffsüchtig / Hamburg. Swim with the masses? That's not for Philipp Kaczmarek and Alessandro De Pasquale, with their Stoffsüchtig in Hamburg they show just how exciting multi-brand stores can be. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Matthias Wolf

A room height of five metres, red concrete walls, LED wall installations – many people entering the store for the first time stop dead in their tracks and stare. This is exactly what the two owners who opened Stoffsüchtig in May 2011 in Hamburg's HafenCity want to see. New Spirit

Philipp Kaczmarek founded Stoffsüchtig as a platform for special fashion plus bar about four years ago. Studying fashion and design at the AMD, he had already created Stoffsüchtig as part of his final assignment and so this has now turned into a reality. Initially in Hamburg's Rotenbaumchaussee – together with Felix Nitschke at the time still - Alessandro De Pasquale has taken on his role since January 2011. "But we wanted to grow, the old location was too normal and hardly had any foot traffic", says Philipp Kaczmarek. There are significantly more fashion shops in the Überseeboulevard. In two, three years, says Philip Kaczmarek, the HafenCity will be one of the most sought after shopping addresses in Hamburg. That in future there could also be large chain stores there, doesn't put him off. Stoffsüchtig is too different for that. The lifestyle surrounding it is all part of it, the fashion parties and late night shopping. And the bar next door which is to be relaunched in the spring. Wearable to Challenging

Berlin, Copenhagen, London and Amsterdam all number amongst the preferred order goals of Kaczmarek and De Pasquale. Wearable items are mixed with a healthy portion of challenging items, including the vegan high fashion label Umasan whose designer learned at Yamamoto. Tigha from Düsseldorf is more commercial, or Johnny Love from Norway with timeless jackets in a perfect fit. Added to this are extravagant evening gowns by David Tomaszewki and 113 style in progress

Sopopular for men with unusual mixed pattern shirts. The range for men and women is vast, there are many labels. Also because Stoffsüchtig offers young de­ signers a forum. "That makes it even fresher and more vibrant", says Philipp Kaczmarek. In May of last year, the two Bochum lads raised their fledgling online shop stoffsuechtig.de and are pleased with the positive response. They can imagine having other shops in different cities. But it still has to be personal, as Stoffsüchtig reflects the essence of its owners. "We are very much alive, we love going out and having fun with fashion, we are open to everything", says Philipp Kaczmarek. That's something that can be felt and hits the clientèle's nerve.

They march to a pleasantly different beat. Philipp Kaczmarek and Allessandro De Pasquale, owners of Stoffsüchtig.

Stoffsüchtig Überseeboulevard 2, 20457 Hamburg/ Germany, www.stoffsuechtig.de, www.stoffsuechtig-hafencity.de Opening: May 2011 Owners: Philipp Kaczmarek and Alessandro De Pasquale Staff: 4 Retail space: 222 sqm Women's labels: including Ann Soho, Blonde No.8, Coatpeople, Crumpet, Diamond in the snow, Esther Perbandt, F.rau, Firma, Franzius, Gestuz, Julia Starp, justJunkies, Kilian Kerner Senses, Libertine Libertine, Mio Animo, Modström, Nanni, Philippa Lindenthal, Pop CPH, Saint Noir, THVM, Tigha, Alles aus Liebe Men's labels: including Big E, Firma, Hannibal, Homecore, J.C.Rags, Junk de Luxe, Kilian Kerner Premium, Libertine Libertine, Patrick Mohr, Pop CPH, Red Collar Project, Saint Noir, Sixpack France, THVM, Umberto Valati, YMC Accessories: including Gretchen, House of Cases, Hüftgold, Kiss, Nineteen Eighty-Eight


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"Where have we ended up here?" Many visitors are amazed by the cool interior of Stoffs端chtig in the Hamburg HafenCity.

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212 IN STORE

A Question of Passion Maximilian ConceptStore / Bozen. The Maximilian Concept Store opened in Bozen last August is the Maximilian group's new flagship store. The Profanter entrepreneurs take on style and passion can be seen in the appealing mix of fashion, accessories, perfumes and books. Text: Jeanette Fuchs. Photos: Maximilian

How exactly has fashion from all over the world ended up in South Tyrol? Plausible answers at the ready, Martina and Hannes Profanter are a successful duo who don't wish only to be thought of as ambassadors of international fashion trends since the new flagship store in the Tyrolean capital opened. Nine boutiques in Brixen, Bruneck and Sterzing paved the way for the Maximilian Concept Store to its international form. A presence that has been bringing fashion and passion to the east of South Tyrol for 20 years now. Passion and Hard Work

Hannes Profanter considers the move into the state capital simply as a "logical consequence of the evolutionary process". "Bozen is the heart of South Tyrol, alpine meets Mediterranean here, Italian lifestyle meets Tyrolean industriousness", says the businessman. A harmony of contrasts that Martina and Hannes Profanter have also adopted in the new concept store: Newcomer labels and discoveries from small manu­ facturers are offered in the ambience of clear, modern architecture and alongside established fashion labels. Modern lifestyle has been implemented across the entire line through the use 113 style in progress

of books, room scents, perfumes and gadgets for iPhone and Co. "Our concept store has been designed as a lounge for men and women over four floors, something which hasn't yet been seen in this form far and wide", explains Martina Profanter. 365 Degree Fashion

Fashion and style undergo a holistic approach in the Maximilian Concept Store: "We don't offer fashion, more a positive passion and modern lifestyle", they both reply together. In the process, the focus is on interpersonal interaction. Customers should feel at ease and experience personal attention. This, in the meantime, demands hard work and commitment from the sales team: "Our staff act as styling consultants, individually dealing with our customers according to their wishes and personality", says Martina Profanter. An appealing concept, both for ladies of a certain age as well as fashion-conscious students. Gentleman or sporty trendsetter? The product range – from elegant made-to-measure suits to casual sportswear – makes this question superfluous. "Anything goes nowadays, what counts is the personality of the individual. This visual focus is something we want to introduce with fashion and styling", says Hannes Profanter. So, it is perfectly understandable the perfectly attuned duo consider presenta-

tion and visualisation of fashion, styling and lifestyle as one of their strengths, a strength particularly seen in the Bozen store. Because: People are more trend-focused in the state capital than in other cities. Pole Position

The two players have been defending their pole position in the South Tyrolean fashion scene for two decades now. For Martina Profanter, the passion for fashion is key to continued success: "We deal with the latest global trends, visit fashion shows throughout Europe and buy from specialised trade fairs as well as from manufacturers direct. This is how we bring the best styling into our stores, offering a product range that is something truly special." After penetrating the urban regions. the Maximilian owners aren't averse to further development beyond the borders of South Tyrol: "We'll see what growth is possible in these challenging economic times."

They see themselves as ambassadors of international fashion trends in South Tyrol: Hannes Profanter and son Daniel, Martina Profanter and Store Manager Michael Wassermann.

Maximilian Concept-Store Maximilian Concept Store, Lauben 16, 39100 Bozen/Italy, T 0039.0471.983487 www.maximilian.it. Opening: August 2012. Owner: Martina and Helmut Profanter. Staff: 15. Retail space: 800 sqm Women‘s labels: 1963, 7 for all Mankind, 8 PM, American Vintage, Annie P, Aquascutum, Belstaff, Better Rich, Blauer, Bruno Manetti, Catarinas, Carma, Cheap Monday, Circolo 1901, Daks, De Hart, Desigual, Dondup, Dr. Martens, Dr. Scholl, Duvetica, Elisabetta Franchi, Gamp, Gams, Gloverall, Gotha, Hegos Liverpool, Himons, Jacob Cohen, Jeffrey Campell, Jijil, Jucca, Karl Lagerfeld, La Foi, Lavand, Leather Crown, Liebeskind, Liu Jo, Maison Scotch, Museum, New York, Paolo Pecora, Peuterey, Pierre Balmain, Philippe Model, Postcard, Siviglia, Smiths American, Soho, Sun68, Sucre, Supertrash, Swiss Chriss, Szen, The Sartorialist, True NYC, Ugg, US Polo, U.S. Polo Assn., Vialis, Vince Camuto Men‘s labels: 6Ender, AI Riders on the Storm, Alessandrini, Alden, Aquascutum, Belstaff, Barba, Bark Boglioli, Blauer USA, Catarinas Circolo, Cheap Monday, Cochrane, C.P. Company, Date, Della Ciana, Dondup, Dr. Martens, Duvetica, Etro, Fifty Four, Futuro, GMS 75, Jakt, Jacob Cohen, Kangra, Lardini, L.B.M. 1911, Leather Crown, Moorer, New Balance, New York, Oh Deer, Paolo Pecora, Peuterey, Philippe Model, Pierre Balmain, Polo Ralph Lauren, Reign, Shaft Jeans, Siviglia, Smiths American, Tommy Hilfiger, Himons, Sun68, Swiss-Chriss, Tagliatore, The Royal Pine Club, True NYC, S.W.O.R.D. London Accessories: Altea Uomo, Aquascutum, Daks, Etro, Le Pandorine, Mancini, Orciani Donna & Uomo, Pomikaki, Sachet, Slang, Tyoulip Sisters, V73


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Maximilian Concept Store in Bozen: The mix of fashion, accessories, books and fragrances celebrates style and passion.

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214 IN STORE

New Double Act in Vienna arnolds / vienna. Paar-Laden / vienna. Two stores, two concepts, one passageway. Thanks to Arnolds and its neighbour Paar-Laden, Siebensterngasse in Vienna's city centre finally has two good reasons why a trip from the now commercially-burdened Neubaugasse is worth it. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Paar-Laden, Arnolds

Am, tecto moluptatiume ni dolupta volorrum fuga. Illo min re, optas sequi dipid et har

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Jakub Arnold speaks in sentences that leave journalists grinning with pleasure. Quotation number one, quotation number two – in the bag. What you immediately perceive is that he is driven by personal passion for what he is doing here. In June 2010, he first opened Arnolds on Siebensterngasse as an answer to the gaping hole in Vienna at the time as regards "New menswear modern classics," as he calls it. In this category, he includes such brands as Filson, Red Wing, Carhartt and newcomers like Naked & Famous, which were already acclaimed in stores like Burg & Schild in Berlin but not yet represented in Vienna. 95 percent of the product range in Arnolds is aimed at men, a maximum of five percent is allocated to the female target group. In

accordance with this, the store design is made up of clear lines. "The store design is a concept by the Dotting Designer Duo with Sofia Podreka and Katrin Radanitsch. For us, it was about paying tribute to the history of this establishment, and not renovating it to death. At the turn of the century, there was already a large textile company inside its doors. We converted historical features like original signs, the old brickwork and original street lamps on Siebensterngasse, which were still powered by gas at the time, and we integrated them into the design," says Jakub Arnold. Door to Door

Taking a few steps, you enter Paar-Laden, connected to Arnolds by a passageway, but still in a completely different

world of its own. Two months after Arnolds was opened, Michael Paul moved in with a very select range of sneakers. It is, so to speak, a line extension of his main skate store, Stil-Laden on Lindengasse. Because he couldn't find any space there for the sports brands' lifestyle collections alongside the skate lines, the small boutique next door to Arnolds suited him just right. There, it's all about the types of sneaker that you can't find anywhere else in Vienna. The only Nike Quikstrike account in Austria, Puma's only Kollabo retailer in Austria, and the only place that sells all of the exclusive lines by New Balance, among others. As if that ode to the sports shoe weren't enough, the store design is also a "homage to the origin of skateboarding," so to speak,


IN STORE 215

as the shelves depict the crosssection of a ramp. Alongside the models of famous brands, there are also rows of brands for enthusiasts, such as Pointer, Clae or Toms. "They are clearly very sales-intensive products. That's the common denominator between our two stores, which both attract a homogenous and quite a diverse target group, whose common denominator is the search for something individual," says Jakub Arnold, who is also involved in Paar-Laden and that is how the name materialised. Because, just like with a pair of damn good kicks, the lads' success story seems to start by being too far ahead already.

Jakub Arnold (left) and Michael Paul have joined forces to form a conglomerate with their neighbouring store concepts.

While clear symmetry and clean chic reigns at Arnold's (picture on left), the PaarLaden (picture on right) is a self-contained world of sneakers. The common denominator of both stores is their clientèle.

Arnolds Siebensterngasse 52 1070 Vienna/Austria T 0043.1.9231316, www.arnolds.at Owner: Jakub Arnold Opening: June 2010 Retail space: 150 sqm Labels: Alternative Apparel, BWGH, Carhartt, Dejan, Denim Demon, Donautracht, Dr. Bronners, Edwin Jeans, Filson, GRP, Happy Socks, Incase, Naked & Famous, Playbag, Red Wing Shoes, SUPER sunglasses, TOMS Paar-Laden Siebensterngasse 52 1070 Vienna/Austria T 0043.19.231316 www.paar-laden.at Owners: Michael Paul, Jakub Arnold Opening: August 2010 Retail space: 25 sqm Sneakers Labels: Adidas ObyO, CLAE, Jason Markk, KangaROOS, New Balance, Nike NSW, Pointer, Puma, StĂźssy, TOMS

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216 editor’S Letter /// about us

The Winter of Decisions!

Publisher, editorial office, advertising department and owner UCM-Verlag B2B Media GmbH & Co KG Salzweg 17, 5081 Salzburg-Anif Austria T 0043.6246.89 79 99 F 0043.6246.89 79 89 office@ucm-verlag.at www.ucm-verlag.at Management Stephan Huber Nicolaus Zott

Editors-in-chief Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Martina Müllner martina.muellner@ucm-verlag.at Managing editor Stefanie Spreitzer stefanie.spreitzer@ucm-verlag.at

I

'm looking outside at half a me­ tre of snow. I like it. I like win­ ter. I love living in a place where there really are four seasons. For the clothing industry, this winter of 2013/14 points the way in many ways. It started in an unfriendly fashion. On average, with unsatisfactory turnovers for the specialised trade . With too little store traffic. With the realisa­ tion that the Christmas season has become unpredictable. After what has now been many years of bombardment by negative press, it's no wonder consumers are reluctant. Quite the opposite, I wasn't the only one surprised by how long people have managed to resist all the doomsday scenarios. And at least by how stable turn­ over in the fashion and clothing sectors has remained. As a whole, it's entirely justifiable to infer the significance of clothing overall is at a high level with increasing numbers of people nowadays and seen as an essential part of their personality, such things can be regarded as a wholly positive de­ velopment. In view of the major challenges our industry has to face, it's a psychological injection of courage. Still! Take what you can get. In the Winter of Decisions it's really more than a legitimate whistling in the dark. For example, in Berlin, it's a question of finishing a rather unnecessary discussion that has broken out about tradeshows in general and the location of Berlin 113 style in progress

in general. Please don't get me wrong. Discussions are always jus­ tified. But at least, in my humble opinion, it's the wrong issue being discussed. Actually it's more about whether fashion tradeshows are justifying the reality of the fashion industry in 2013 and beyond. Whether they are in a position to provide impetus, generate business and give the industry a framework and stage. If the majority of these questions are answered with a YES, and for the most part I do do that, then this ongoing debate about loca­ tions is twice as obsolete. Because THERE IS no better place than Berlin. Neutral statement.... but with conviction. This season will be crucial in a market where there is too much of everything, also for many manu­ facturers. Because the retail trade will reduce its order volume after the second winterly slap in the face in a row. To be more specific: It will adapt in line with reality. And if this means that in future less merchandise will be squan­ dered at the wrong time as a result of pressures of liquidity, then this even makes perfect sense. Those who don't have a good product to offer, have lost nowadays anyway. So, its more about the good, if possible perfect, overall package of product, service, deliverability and markup. And it is increasingly about mapping the changing rhythms. Those who can do all this will come through the Winter of Decisions well. Without get­

ting pneumonia or even a red nose. For the retail trade or buyers, this "too much of everything" has two sides. Which is just how life is. On the one hand, this means a high level of selection such as has never been seen across all the product groups. On the other hand, it carries the risk of becom­ ing bogged down. But that shouldn't happen, this season especially. The order of the day is to have a streamlined pre-order so that there is plenty of breathing space to continually renew and refresh the product range at a later stage at short order. This partially calls for new thinking and for (again) for many hopefully wise and also coura­ geous decisions. Last autumn, if you'll allow me a quick personal comment here, I made a decision that I found, emotionally-speaking, very diffi­ cult. Namely, not to continue the last really only artificial separa­ tion of themes between style in Progress and x-ray and, despite all my sentimentality, to do the right thing. Which is to say, to combine all the great content our interna­ tional editorial team find, research and prepare for you together into one EVEN stronger, more exciting and more differentiated magazine. And the result has been more than successful. Says I... quite confidently. Best wishes Stephan Huber

Art direction/production Elisabeth Prock-Huber elisabeth@ucm-verlag.at Contributing writers Elisabeth Bärnthaler Janine Dudenhöffer Petrina Engelke Isabel Faiss Jeanette Fuchs Jan Joswig Ina Köhler Jule Lauber Odessa Legemah Kay Alexander Plonka Sonja Ragaller Katja Weiland von Ruville Nicoletta Schaper Dörte Welti Photographers /Illustrators Heiko Dreher Esther Gebauer Dörte Haupt Julian Hentzler Andrea Krizmanich Felix Krüger Sakis Lallas Uli Mattes Ingo Robin Federica Roncaldier Peter Schaffrath Matthias Wolf Image editor Anouk Schönemann anouk.schoenemann@ucm-verlag.at Advertising director Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Publisher’s assistant, distribution Sigrid Staber sigrid.staber@ucm-verlag.at Christina Hörbiger christina.hoerbiger@ucm-verlag.at English translations Petrina Engelke, transmit-Deutschland Printing Laber Druck, Salzburg Printing coordinator Manfred Reitenbach Account info Volksbank Salzburg 105 627 BLZ 45010 Next issue 28 January 2013


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