092 WHAT'S THE STORY
New Ground currently gaining huge recognition, and a modern European spirit evident in surf-culture. This is the California of Europe!” Help and Self-Help
Portugal’s accession to the EU in 1986 was a significant step for the country towards catching up with the European market in general. “To this day, the sentiment towards the EU is exceedingly positive”, Hans-Joachim Böhmer explains. Manual Serrão adds: “All the ‘normal’ people on the street are aware of the EU funds and how much they have contributed to change in Portugal.” But Portugal is not merely thriving on external help. “I remember organising trade shows in Portugal 20 or 25 years ago. The events were scheduled to last four days. At 8am on the first day, buyers and sourcing experts were already at the gates. In some cases, they bought the entire annual production of the Portuguese textile and shoe
“Lisbon provides the perfect environment for our new tech-hub” Marc Lamik, head of innovation and partnerships at Zalando
manufacturers. There were companies that could have closed their stands half an hour after the event started because they had already sold everything they had to offer. When the customers suddenly stopped coming, many of these companies were on the verge of closure, mainly because all they ever offered was their manpower. They had never invested in their own collections, designs, marketing, and sales. They weren’t even familiar with this side of the business. In addition, the Portuguese soul tends to accept situations for what they are. Many companies had to wait for a new generation of entrepreneurs before things started to change. Investing in one’s own development, design, and production expertise, visiting trade shows abroad, and 118 style in progress
“The Portuguese labour market has recovered noticeably. The country boasts a high education level; it has, for instance, a higher proportion of university graduates than Germany.” Hans-Joachim Böhmer AHK (German Foreign Trade Chamber) Lisbon
presenting oneself differently this side of the business needed to grow first”, Manuel Serrão explains. Today, the aforementioned textile federation supports its 800 members in all these activities and organises the participation in 85 trade shows in 35 countries, thus handling more than 1,000 trade fair attendances per year. Diversification, Modernisation, Craftsmanship
In the textile sector, Portugal has not only caught up in terms of fashion. Highly specialised companies develop fabrics and textiles that are used in the medical and automotive industries. “20 or 30 years ago, the textile-related colleges were empty. Today, they are full”, Manuel Serrão points out. “For the youth, the textile sector is - at least - just as interesting as computer sciences, because many have understood that the innovation in that sector ensures a secure future.” The emancipation from bulk buyers is making steady progress - with the exception of Inditex Group, which chose Portugal as one of its main production locations for logistical and time-related reasons. “The suppliers stock the material and can respond to demand within a very short time”, Manuel Serrão explains. External factors also play a part in helping to advance the business too. “China is no longer an easy option. Many brands have realised that huge lots, early orders, and constant business trips to China ultimately don’t justify the price advantage. One of our members recently told me about a former customer
returning during the Premier Vision. When he asked what prompted this decision, she simply answered that she is tired. A flight to Porto takes two hours; to China it’s 20 hours. Then there’s the development of the US Dollar. In China, everything is invoiced in US Dollars. Let’s not forget the current situation in Turkey. But all these external factors wouldn’t help us if we hadn’t renewed ourselves first.” Pioneers are not the only ones who thrive on the spirit of change. “A lot has changed in smaller crafts businesses too”, says Norbert Erhard, whose distribution agency Vista Portuguese sells finest products ranging from ceramics to delicacies in Germany. This portfolio also appeals to fashion retailers such as Impressionen, which comes as no surprise given his professional background in fashion. He was CEO at Herrlicher before deciding to join forces with his partner and focus on the Portugal project and three stores in Heidelberg. He claims to be infected by the Portugal virus and is happy to contribute to introducing the beauty, aesthetics, and design sense of this country to the world. One of his discoveries is the ceramics label Antonio Duro Designers. Ana and Antonio Duro have given traditional Portuguese ceramic art a modern format. Their lifestyle-oriented collections represent a new expression of craftsmanship. “In this fast-paced world, something as sensual and enduring as ceramics will gain a completely different status”, Antonio Duro says. The lively couple, who are entrepreneurs in the best sense of the word, are about to buy an entire production facility due to an excellent order situation. The bridge that successfully
“A flight to Porto takes two hours; to China it’s 20 hours.” Manuel Serrão, Portugal Fashion & Portuguese Textile Federation
„Portugal has lovely, open, tolerant, and liberal people who are open to foreign investors and new ideas.” Chitra Stern, Martinhal hotelgroup & Portugal IN
connects a rich heritage with an optimistic outlook on the future is precisely what distinguishes Portugal. The list of brands that benefit from the quality of the country in one way or another is long. The arguments are always the same: near-shoring, competence, and quality. “And let’s not forget that even sourcing experts and buyers prefer travelling to a safe, clean, beautiful, and hospitable country rather than a country that is inhospitable”, Manuel Serrão laughs. And he’s right - even on a grey and rainy day in Porto.