Walking On Water

ALTHOUGH SYNONYMOUS WITH BALI, SURFING IS NOT NATIVE TO THE ISLAND. BOB KOKE BROUGHT IT OVER IN 1936; BUT AT WHAT POINT DOES INDIGENOUS CULTURE BECOME SO INGRAINED THAT THEY BECOME ONE AND THE SAME?

BY ANTONIA STANTON

IT’S a story that’s been retold year after year, reimagined, warped, and retouched in the special way that only happens to remote island communities in the 80’s; but the man in the middle, Bob Koke, remains in every scenario. Two Americans had arrived by steamboat in 1936 – pre-independance, preairport, and pre-surf – and changed the landscape so vividly and distinctly that not a single force in the world would be able to deny the mark they had left on the soul of the island.

At the time, Bali was completely untouched by the outside world. Paddling back into shore only to be greeted by a short, topless Balinese woman offering food and drink from the large basket on her head was an experience that rarely existed anywhere else. Trekking down to hot spots and nearly slipping and falling to your death had a certain charm, a je ne sais quoi that was irreplaceable.

Flashing forward to now, looking upon surfers all over the island, these tales of “Old Bali” feel bittersweet and nostalgic – so much has changed, yet so little. The community has evolved past just an appreciation for the waves, and huge island-wide campaigns like Bye-Bye Plastic Bags and Sungaiwatch have percolated into the wider community to give back to the Island. The difference it’s made is remarkable; both online and in real life, Bali seems to be birthing a renaissance-like movement of foreigners and locals alike who really, truly appreciate the island’s lush nature and culture that seemed to be forgotten in the 90’s and early noughties in the name of development and economic growth.

Foreigners who arrive in Bali are rarely told to look beyond the trendy landscape of Canggu – and really, why should they? The scene is convenient and familiar, the surf and service is good and plenty of like-minded individuals are all congregated in the same place… but if early surfing culture has taught us anything, it’s that we as foreigners cannot remain in the comfort of the turf for too long – those that seek truly fulfilling and new experiences must once in a while step out of that zone and explore past the shore.

There is so much rich culture in Bali that blends seamlessly with the Surf Lifestyle. At times hectic and noisy, the island seems to be alive, always, even without the hustle and bustle. Balinese Hinduism, not to be mistaken for any other branch of the religion, is idiosyncratic in the way that it’s been valued and revered enough to be preserved by the entire world. The religion famously extends itself past mere spiritual belief – there is no “To believe or not to believe?” in Balinese Hinduism because at its core, it is a way of life. Really, what other perspective could you possibly have when you’ve seen the island? To paddle in the water and look up to see an 11th-Century temple, to look out of your window and see nothing but paddies and trees and hills as far as the horizon stretches, to be woken up each morning by the banjar’s morning bells; experiencing that after growing up in any other place is difficult to describe.

The community that Surf has built into the island is difficult to understand and even more difficult to permeate. There is a sense of camaraderie out in the water, an unspoken agreement about etiquette and local rules that is so rarely seen in other communities. There’s a hierarchy, shared terminology, and a connection to nature that seems impossible to understand (and frankly, probably slightly fanatic) from the shore. There is no rift, no barrier between local and foreign surfers in the water. You have a right to be there, as long as you’re willing to learn. Who cares what language you speak if you know, intrinsically, what everyone’s soul is saying?

Kuta Beach was built on waves. Development follows surfers around the island like a tether, up and down the western shore, from Batu Bolong to Padang-Padang. The beautiful thing about surfing in Bali is that the entire island seems to be on the same wavelength, despite surfing not being a native sport; whether you’re in Sanur or Padang-Padang, the etiquette you learn out on the surf can be applied everywhere, and it blends seamlessly. Balinese hospitality, famous for being warm and welcoming, paddles the same path.

Surf Options:

Bali, Indonesia, is renowned worldwide for its stunning beaches, vibrant culture, and, of course, its epic surf breaks. Whether you’re a beginner looking to catch your first wave or an experienced surfer seeking the ultimate challenge, Bali offers something for everyone. Here, we explore some of Bali’s main surf breaks and their corresponding skill levels: Here’s a brief round up of surf breaks on the island.

Kuta Beach:

Skill Level: Beginner to Intermediate

Located in the heart of Bali’s first tourism hub, Kuta Beach is famous for its consistent waves and sandy bottom, making it ideal for beginners to hone their skills. Surf schools line the beach, offering lessons and board rentals for those eager to learn the basics of surfing.

Canggu:

Skill Level: Intermediate to Advanced

Canggu boasts a variety of surf breaks suitable for different skill levels. Berawa Beach offers long, peeling waves perfect for intermediates, while Batu Bolong and Echo Beach provide more challenging waves favored by experienced surfers. The beach town also features a vibrant surf culture with trendy cafes and beachfront bars.

Uluwatu:

Skill Level: Advanced

Uluwatu is home to some of Bali’s most legendary waves, catering mainly to experienced surfers. The main break at Uluwatu offers powerful, barreling waves over a shallow reef, demanding precise timing and advanced wave-riding skills. The breathtaking cliff-top scenery adds to the allure of this iconic surf spot.

Padang-Padang:

Skill Level: Advanced

Located nearby Uluwatu, Padang-Padang is another world-class surf break renowned for its hollow barrels and fast, challenging waves. While the lineup can get crowded, scoring a clean barrel at Padang Padang is a dream for many experienced surfers willing to test their limits.

Impossibles:

Skill Level: Advanced

As the name suggests, Impossibles offers some of Bali’s most challenging waves, reserved for expert surfers only. Situated between Padang Padang and Bingin, this fast and powerful reef break delivers long, perfectly shaped lefts and rights, requiring exceptional wave-reading skills and fearless commitment.

Medewi:

Skill Level: Intermediate to Advanced

Located on Bali’s west coast, Medewi is known for its long, mellow left-hand point break, providing a more laid-back experience compared to the island’s southern breaks. While suitable for intermediates, Medewi’s long rides and forgiving waves also attract advanced surfers seeking a slightly more relaxed vibe.