MAGAZINE
PICKING & DECODING THE KIA HU134 LOCK
JULY 2021 LOCKSMITHMAG.COM
PICKING AND DECODING A 2018 HYUNDAI IONIQ DOOR LOCK Using the Genuine Lishi K5 2in1 Pick & Decoder
With the Lishi HU134 Pick & Decoder
PICKING & DECODING THE NEW FORD HU198 LOCK
Interactive Magazine!
Martin Pink answers your locksmithing questions
ISSUE 7
Using the Lishi HU198/FORD 2017 Pick and Decoder
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CONTRIBUTORS Martin Pink The highly respected locksmith Martin Pink has been at the forefront of the development of tools and techniques for picking, decoding and opening many of today’s toughest locks. Martin has been instrumental in the development of the Genuine Lishi Brand and he wrote the definitive guide to opening car locks called the Genuine Lishi Training Kit. Martin is known around the globe for his knowledge of car lock technology and is highly sought after at locksmith exhibitions and training events around the world.
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PICKING & DECODING THE KIA HU134 LOCK With the Lishi HU134 Pick & Decoder. P.6-13
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CARS, KEYS & LOCKS MAGAZINE
Using the Lishi HU198/FORD 2017 Pick and Decoder.
JULY 2021
PICKING AND DECODING THE NEW FORD HU198 LOCK
L E T T E R F R O M T H E E D I TO R
Welcome to another edition of Cars, Keys and Locks online magazine. In this edition, we bring you Lishi guides for some of the latest tools, including the Hyundai/Kia HU134, the new Ford HU198 internal track and the K5 Hyundai/Kia tool. We hope they help with any areas of knowledge you may be missing. Covid-19 is still very much with us, despite the upcoming relaxing of restrictions. We still face many issues this virus presents. The need for long-term use of PPE is obvious - stock up on this, include it in your work routines, and stay safe. I’m pleased to announce that I’ve been working hard adding the finishing touches to a brand-new guide, which I hope to release in the next issue of the magazine. I have almost completed the how-to picture guide for accurately decoding the side cuts from the VAG HU162 9 and 10 cut door locks. The guide will be a very clear step-by-step picture guide to easily decode these locks using the current Lishi tools designed for them. I’ve had 100% accuracy decoding these and have the pick and decode down to five minutes. The guide doesn’t stop at just clear step-by-step pictures, but also covers the theory behind the process as well as clear instructions on how to decode with the Lishi, and also how to convert the Lishi read to what your machine needs you to enter, making this lock a straight-forward lock to decode. The initial guide just covers the side cuts as we already have guides for the conventional cuts, but I will be rewriting these for the autumn issues so that you will have the full picking and decoding guides of side cuts and conventional cuts in one easily referenced guide. Another big first for Cars, Keys and Locks magazine is the first accurate step-by-step guide to decoding these HU162 9 and 10 cut side cuts using your existing Lishi tools, so plenty to look forward to in the next issues. Enjoy this July issue, and for the football fans out there: Come on England! Bring it home.
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PICKING & DECODING THE KIA HU134 LOCK with the Lishi HU134 Pick & Decoder
The key is cut using Instacode card 1347, and the key series is YN001 – YN2300. Site reading the HU134 key with only seven key cut positions, the key is not difficult to site read. It’s often wise to site read the key after decoding with your machine where possible to confirm the decode. Since the key is an external track key, there is only one track to read. Below is the key we are reading which is key No YN0670:
Lock and Key Details The HU134 houses just seven wafers in the lock - door, boot and ignition locks all have seven wafers within them. The lock uses seven key cut heights numbered 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9 so only odd numbered key cut heights are used. The HU134 key is an external track key housing seven cut positions and five key cut heights numbered 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9, with 1 being the highest cut and 9 being the deepest cut.
As is clear to see, the key reads by eye as 1115373, you can also read the key using verniers/ calipers. The measurements for this are: 1 cut measures 5.1mm 3 cut measures 4.35mm 5 cut measures 3.6mm 7 cut measures 2.85mm 9 cut measures 2.1mm 1
PICKING THE HU134 IGNITION LOCK
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The Lishi tool will be able to pick the door lock, the ignition lock and the boot lock with ease. I find medium to light tension works the best for picking the lock. Position 3 is the first position to bind and pick.
As with all Lishi tools, we must navigate each position with the 2 lift arms to find which are moving and which are binding solid. We are only interested in the positions that bind solid, if a wafer in any position has movement, then leave it alone.
Once you find a binding wafer, you must pick this wafer until it Position 5 is the next position has movement again. Once the to bind and pick. wafer has movement again, then 3 we move on to the next binding wafer. Once all binding wafers are picked, the lock will open. So let’s begin picking the HU134 ignition lock. I have inserted my tool fully and I have applied a light to medium tension in the clockwise opening direction. I will now look for my first binding wafer. 2
Position 7 is the next to bind and pick.
4
Position 1 is the next position to bind and pick, a slight movement and rotation of the plug is felt which confirms this side is all set.
7
Position 6 is the next to bind and pick.
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5
Position 2 binds and picks again. Position 2 on the opposite lift arm is the next to bind and pick.
9
6
The lock now opens fully. Position 4 is the next to bind and pick. 3
You will notice that we had to pick all 7 positions of the lock to open it, this confirms that there are no lowest number 9 cut wafers within this lock. We can now hold the lock in the picked open position in order to decode it. DECODING THE HU134 IGNITION LOCK Decoding the HU134 lock is extremely straight forward once you have the lock held in the picked open position. Note the decode grid on the right of the tool. As per the lock series, the heights are numbered 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9, 1 being the highest key cut and 9 being the deepest key cut. I have my lock picked open and held in this position by light tension on the tension arm. I will now navigate the reading arrow to each position in the lock starting with position 1 at the bow and moving in turn to position 7 at the tip decoding each position in turn. 4
We must gently move the decode arrow along the numbered line in the same direction as we picked until it stops, then gently push past the spring until it stops again. The line it stops on will relate to the cut position marked with its cut value on the right of the tool. It’s that simple, so let’s decode the lock:
1
Position 1 decodes as a number 1 key cut.
2
Position 2 decodes as a number 1 key cut.
3
6
Position 3 decodes as a number 1 key cut.
Position 6 decodes as a number 7 key cut.
4
7
Position 4 decodes as a number 5 key cut.
Position 7 decodes as a number 3 key cut.
5
Our decode is complete and we have read a key from bow to tip of “1115373” which will be the key code of YN0670.
Position 5 decodes as a number 3 key cut.
All we need do now is enter either our code or the direct cuts into our key machine and cut the key on Instacode card 1347 to cut the perfect key for the lock. 5
PICKING AND DECODING THE NEW FORD HU198 LOCK
Using the Lishi HU198/ Ford 2017 Pick and Decoder
track key and have moved to an internal track key. LOCK AND KEY DETAILS As has been mentioned previously, Ford have now moved to an internal track lock and key. A new key cutting card and a new Lishi tool is required despite being the same HU101 key blade. The lock still houses 10 cuts in the lock, and still uses 5 key cut heights numbered 1 to 5 with 1 being the highest cut and 5 being the deepest cut. This lock uses Instacode cutting card 1434. The new lock series is 0020001 – 0032003.
As you can see from the above picture, this guide relates to the new Ford lock introduced on models from 2017. The first vehicle this was seen on was the Ford Fiesta in the mid-end of 2017. You will notice that it is still the HU101 key blade, but despite being the same, the cut is very different. This is because Ford have moved away from the old external
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All locks house all 10 wafers and the Lishi tool can pick door, ignition and boot. It’s also worth mentioning that cut to code machines cut this key more accurately using a 1.5mm cutter and tracer. Site reading the HU198 cut key There’s not a huge difference in site reading the key; with the key bow to left and tip to right, you only need to site read the top track of the key.
So, for site reading purposes we are only interested in reading the top track of the key, however as it’s now an internal track key, the correct opposite cut value will always sit opposite on the cut opposite on the bottom track of the key. This is a useful double check for you when site reading a worn key.
tip of “5433433112”. This means that bottom track should read as “1233233554”. The below photo confirms this:
Let’s start:
A cut value on the top track will always have its opposite cut sat opposite it on the bottom track, so: 1 cut will always sit opposite a 5 cut. 2 cut will always sit opposite a 4 cut. 3 cut will always sit opposite a 3 cut. 4 cut will always sit opposite a 2 cut. 5 cut will always sit opposite a 1 cut.
By checking both sides of the key we can confirm our top track decode.
Which is a useful cross check when site reading.
Simply enter the direct cuts from the top track into your cut to code machine of “5433433112” to cut the perfect key.
Ok, so we are only concerned with site reading the top track of the key as in the below photo:
For those of us with aging eyes, the caliper and vernier measurements for each cut are as follows: 1 cut measures 3.1mm. 2 cut measures 2.5mm. 3 cut measures 1.9mm. 4 cut measures 1.3mm. 5 cut measures 0.7mm.
So, with bow to left and tip to the right our site read of the top track gives a key from bow to
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ADVICE WHEN USING THE HU198/FORD 2017 PICK & DECODER I have had a play with a number of bench locks as well as a number of locks on live vehicles with very mixed results. On one lock, everything will read bang on the line, and on the next lock 1 side will read bang on the line and the opposite side will read up to a cut too far, i.e. a 2 cut reads as a 1 cut. This only affects some locks and not all. Therefore, it is important to know your tool and the lock you are working on. To get around this, I tend to treat this as an issue with every lock and decode the lock twice with the tool inserted opposite way. Once I have picked the lock open, I make a note of the positions that I did not need to pick at all - these I know will be number 5 key cut values, so the first thing I do is check these positions to confirm they are reading as a 5 cut value. Where the arrow reads these indicates how my tool will read all positions on this lift arm. If it reads bang on line, then I know each position on that arm should do the same. If it reads just above or just below the line or a full cut past
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the line i.e. it reads a 4, I know that each position on that arm is likely to read the same distance out and compensate for this in my decode. When only one of the two lift arms is reading out as is the case when this happens normally, I spike the lock, remove the tool, and turn the tool over and reinsert. Now the good arm reads the opposite side and will give me an accurate decode of that side as well. It is not just the five cuts you can perform this on, but the one cuts also as these are easily felt. If reading a full cut distance past the 1 line, then I know its reading a cut too far for the rest and can compensate for this. PICKING THE HU198 FORD DOOR LOCK USING THE HU198/FORD 2017 LISHI PICK AND DECODER TOOL There’s not a lot of difference when picking this new lock as to how we picked the old HU101 lock. The lock does favour a light tension though, the lighter the better. We apply a light tension via the tension arm on the tool, then as always, navigate each position in turn, feeling which wafers have
movement and which are binding solid. We are only interested in those wafers that bind solid anything with movement we leave well alone. With light tension, we navigate to each position in turn and gently tickle each wafer to see if it has movement. If it does we leave it be, if it doesn’t and is binding solid, we pick it until it again has movement, then move on to find the next binding wafer. Once all binding wafers are picked, the lock will open. Again, try and take note of how each position picks as this helps you a lot with the decode. You can almost decode the lock in your head whilst picking it. Any positions you didn’t need to pick, you instantly know those positions will be 5 cuts, any positions that picked just 1 small click you know are 4 cuts, and any positions you had to pick excessively high you know are the 1 cuts. Only the 2s and 3 cuts are difficult to tell apart. This helps determine your decode of a lock that reads out one side. Let’s now pick the HU198 lock using the Lishi pick and decoder. I’ve inserted my tool and have applied a light tension, I will now
navigate the lock to find and pick the binding wafers:
1
Position 5 is the first to bind and pick and picks just a tiny click, so I assume it’s a 4 cut.
2
Position 9 is the next to bind and pick and as it picks to the 1 cut line, I assume it’s likely to be a 1 cut.
3
Position 4 is the next to bind and pick.
9
7
4
Position 8 is the next to bind and pick and as it picks just beyond the 1 line, I assume it’s a 1 cut.
Position 7 is the next to bind and pick.
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5 Position 2 is the next to bind and pick, it moves just 1 small click which makes it likely to be a 4 cut.
9 Position 6 is the next to bind and pick.
6 Position 10 is the next position to bind and pick.
10 Position 3 is the next to bind and pick.
And the lock opens.
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Now I have the lock open and ready to decode, but in paying attention to how the lock picked for me, I already know that position 1 didn’t need picking so it will be a 5 cut for sure. I also think by paying attention to my picking, that position 2 and 5 moved just 1 small click so there’s likely to be a 4 cut in each, and that positions 8 and 9 picked very high and are likely to be number 1 cuts. So, with this in mind, I’m already confident of my decode in positions 1, 2, 5, 8 and 9, so in 5 positions I think I know what the decode should be. The rest I suspect will be 2s and 3 cuts which will help during decode, but I’m also confident from the feel of the picking process of the decode of half of the key already. DECODING THE HU198/FORD 2017 DOOR LOCK Running the decode is the same as if using the traditional HU101 tool and is a process of navigating to each position in turn, then gently running the decode arrow down each numbered line gently till it stops, then push past the spring until it stops again. The line it stops
on will be the cut indicated by the grid on the right of the tool. Bear in mind at this point what I mentioned about the Lishi tool earlier and check how the known 5 and 1 cuts are reading within your lock. This has a bearing on each position read by that lift arm. To start, our lock is held in the picked open position via the tension arm. From picking, I’m expecting position 1 to be a 5, position 2 and 5 to be 4 cuts and positions 8 and 9 to be 1 cuts, let’s see if it’s correct.
1
Position 1 decodes as expected as a number 5 key cut.
2
Position 2 as expected decodes as a number 4 key cut.
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3
Position 3 decodes as a number 3 key cut.
6
Position 6 decodes as a number 3 key cut.
4
7
Position 4 also decodes as a number 3 key cut.
Position 7 decodes as a number 3 key cut also.
5
8
Position 5 as expected decodes as a number 4 key cut.
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Position 8 as expected decodes as a number 1 key cut.
So, our decode gives us the correct key of from bow to tip, “5433433112”.
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Position 9 as expected also decodes as a number 1 key cut.
10
Position 10 decodes as a number 2 key cut.
During picking, my assumptions on what I felt when picking positions 1, 2, 5, 8 and 9 were spot on and the rest as predicted were 2s and 3s. I can’t stress enough the importance of practicing and developing this skill - once mastered, its very accurate and can make the difference between correct decode first time or burning blades. It’s a great skill to possess in your arsenal that pays dividends in time saved. Back to the decode: our decode of “5433433112” can now be entered in our cut to code machine, selecting Instacode card 1434 and you will cut the perfect key using a 1.5mm cutter.
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PICKING AND DECODING A 2018 HYUNDAI IONIQ DOOR LOCK
using the Genuine Lishi K5 2in1 Pick & Decoder
KEY & LOCK DETAILS The lock houses eight wafers, although the Lishi tool picks and decodes in a 1 up 1 down configuration, the key interacts with just one track on the key. So, as stated, the lock houses eight wafers using five key cut depths, 1 being the highest key cut and 5 being the deepest key cut. All eight wafers are found in the door lock, and there is no ignition lock as a proxy system with push button start.
The Genuine Lishi 2in1 pick makes very quick work of the Hyundai Ioniq Hybrid door lock. I achieved the opening of these in around 30 to 60 seconds with the tool as a very simple lock to defeat. The lock will pick following conventional picking methods, but I will also discuss a method of picking this lock with the tool that is very quick and accurate and much faster as it requires very little skill.
The Instacode card is card 1418 and uses key series: B1 – B3000 X1 – X3000 There’s no specific key rules for this one. SITE READING THE KEY As a height lock, the key is not difficult to site read by eye. With the key bow to the left and tip to the right, you only need to read the top track of the key.
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PICKING THE IONIQ LOCK WITH LISHI K5 2IN1 PICK & DECODER
This key reads from bow to tip position 1 to 8 as “45334435”. It is only needed to site read this top track of the key - a straight forward site read. For the old school the caliper/ vernier users, measurements are as follows: 1 cut is 3.6mm 2 cut is 3mm 3 cut is 2.4mm 4 cut is 1.8mm 5 cut is 1.2mm You read the cuts with verniers on the top track between the red lines on the below photo from the top of the key to the end of cut in each position:
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As I hinted at the beginning of this guide, there are two ways of picking this lock open using two differing methods. The first is the conventional way - apply medium tension and pick the binding wafers as they bind. My preferred method on this lock that also works on other locks is to treat the pick a lot like a direct decoder. This is an exceptionally easy way to pick this lock and is the quickest and easiest method I find. What is crucial is you use a very very light tension only on the tension arm, as this is all that is required for this method and you don’t need to search for binding wafers. So, with a very light tension applied, start with the lifter that contacts with the odd positions, navigate the tools reading arrow to position 1, then gently move position 1 wafer along the line until it stops and heavily resists going further. The wafer will stay in place and have a tight slap
confirming its set. The line it stops on will be your key cut. Repeat this by navigating to position 3 then 5 and 7, then use the opposite reader to do the same on positions 2, 4, 6 and 8, then apply a little more tension and the lock will magically open. It doesn’t take long to perfect this method, and you can read the key cuts as you go, then double check once open and they will be same. It’s a very simple lock to pick as seen in the below pictures:
2
Position 3 moves to the third position and has a tight slap, so is a 3 cut.
3
1
Position 5 moves just one position and has a tight slap so is a 4 cut.
4
Position 1 moves slightly, just one position, then has a tight slap and stops on the number 4 wafer.
Position 7 moves three spaces and has a tight slap, so is a 3 cut. We now switch to opposite lift arm to pick the even numbered positions. 17
8
5
Position 2 won’t move at all and already has tight slap, so is a 5 cut.
6
Position 8 doesn’t want to move past the first line and already has a tight slap so is a number 5 key cut.
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Position 4 moves three spaces and has tight slap so will be a 3 cut.
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Position 6 moves just one space and has tight slap so will be a 4 cut.
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A little more tension is applied and the lock is already open. So the lock is now open in around 30 seconds following this method, and from picking the lock, we already know that the key will be “45334435”. We know this without having to decode, but I like to hold the lock in an open position and double check the decode.
DECODING THE IONIQ LOCK WITH THE GENUINE LISHI K5 TOOL As stated previously, if you’re using the method above, you will already have your decode whilst picking the lock, but for those that prefer conventional picking of binding wafers, you will still need to decode once open, or when new to the above method you may be more comfortable double checking your first few. So, holding the lock in the picked open position, we decode in the same direction as we picked the lock:
1
Position 1 reads as a number 4 key cut.
2
Position 2 reads as a number 5 key cut.
3
Position 3 reads as a number 3 key cut.
4
Position 4 reads as a number 3 key cut.
5
Position 5 reads as a number 4 key cut.
6
Position 6 reads as a number 4 key cut. 19
7
Position 7 reads as a number 3 key cut.
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Position 8 reads as a number 5 key cut. So, our key reads as “45334435”. Simply add these direct key cuts into your cut to code machine to cut the correct key for the lock. Just to add, the picking method I’ve suggested also works very well on other locks, in particular many HU64 Mercedes locks.
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AS K T H E E X P E RT QUESTION 1 I’m having some issues with a MK7 Ford transit 2010 model, I have deleted all keys and programmed 2 original blue remote keys to the van, but the red pats light stays on and won’t extinguish and is a non-start, any ideas what I’m doing wrong? ANSWER I suspect you have done nothing wrong, normally just two keys are required once all keys are deleted, but some of these require a third key to be coded to the system and not just two keys. You don’t need to code in a third remote, just a third chip. Use one of the remote blades and hold a chip
to the ignition and cycle, you can also re-use the chip. Once it has three keys, I suspect your pats light will extinguish and you can start the vehicle on the two keys you’re supplying. Let us know how you get on. QUESTION 2 My wife has a 2019 Hyundai Ioniq, I’d like to practice my picking on it but can’t find the correct Lishi tool, is there a tool for Hyundai Ioniq and if so which one as I can’t see one in Hyundai. ANSWER The correct Lishi tool is the Kia K5 tool, so it’s listed under Kia but is also the correct tool for the Ioniq. It’s a fairly new tool that is simple to use, and as luck would have it, it’s one of the new tools we have featured as a step-by-step guide in this magazine issue, happy picking.
Got a question for Martin? Get in touch with us to get your question in the next issue
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