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HARDWARE INTEL: EAR EDITION PODCAST EPISODE 4 IS OUT NOW
HU162 9 CUT WITH 3 SIDE CUTS GUIDE Part 2 of the guide.
Martin Pink answers your locksmithing questions
VAG HU162T 8 CUT EXPLAINED A how-to-read guide.
ISSUE 5
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CONTRIBUTORS Martin Pink The highly respected locksmith Martin Pink has been at the forefront of the development of tools and techniques for picking, decoding and opening many of today’s toughest locks. Martin has been instrumental in the development of the Genuine Lishi Brand and he wrote the definitive guide to opening car locks called the Genuine Lishi Training Kit. Martin is known around the globe for his knowledge of car lock technology and is highly sought after at locksmith exhibitions and training events around the world.
ABOUT CARS, KEYS AND LOCKS MAGAZINE Welcome to Cars, Keys and Locks – the technical journal sponsored by Tradelocks. The aim of CKL is to help advance the skills and knowledge of the everyday locksmith, using adept tips and guidance from experts in the industry. Free to all subscribers, CKL will be published every 2 months and will hold the key to solving all those procedural issues you, the professional, may come across each day. With technical guides, top tips from industry leading specialists and an ‘Ask the Expert’ section, where real locksmiths will be answering very real questions you have. The subscription form at the end of this issue has all the details of how you can sign up to receive the most up-to-date information in the industry. Our articles are in-depth and filled with actual photographs of the work in hand, giving you the most comprehensive how to guides available.
TA B L E O F CO N T E N T S P.1
HARDWARE INTEL: EAR EDITION PODCAST EPISODE 4 IS OUT NOW
Take a look into the fourth episode about hardware and global urbanisation.
DECODING THE HU162 LOCK - PART 2
The second and final part of the guide.
P. 6 - 11
HU162 9 CUT WITH 3 SIDE CUTS GUIDE
FEBRUARY 2021
P.2-5
ASK THE EXPERT
Your questions answered by Martin Pink.
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CARS, KEYS & LOCKS MAGAZINE
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LOCKSMITHMAG.COM
The final instalment of your comprehensive guide.
L E T T E R F R O M T H E E D I TO R
Welcome to the latest edition of Cars, Keys and Locks magazine. Firstly, I’d like to apologise for the confusion caused by the 8 and 9 cut guides being split in 2 halves across 2 issues, I fully understand the confusion this has caused and we will learn from this going forward. To ease the confusion, we have posted links to the full guide for 8 and 9 cut in the trade only section of the shoerepairer.info forums, in the trade only section for now. Five new guides on locks not previously covered will be featured in the next issues of the online magazine, so plenty to look forward to. This edition will complete the 8 and 9 cut guides, and in future editions we will not split guides. Tradelocks are currently running a great KeyDIY promotion, details of which are featured in this issue also. We are still in testing times and national lockdown, so stay safe, stock up on and use your PPE, and we look forward to better times ahead. Stay safe everyone. Martin Pink
HARDWARE INTEL: EAR EDITION PODCAST EPISODE 4 IS OUT NOW Episode four of the Hardware Intel podcast is available now – click here to listen! This month, host and property expert Sian Astley is joined by UAP’s Business Development Manager Richard Morris and Locking Systems General Manager Bill Murray who lead a discussion about hardware safety for global urbanisation. Bill discusses the addition of Gateshead-based Locking Systems and how the team create their complex masterkeying solutions for clients. They both go on to explain how door security has had to change and develop in the last decade as buildings continue to grow bigger and more technologically advanced.
The importance of fire door regulation and the significance of working fire doors in relation to Grenfell tower is also touched on later in the episode. Find all the latest podcast news on our website, or follow us on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Podfollow, and Listen Notes, or find each full episode with video on our YouTube channel.
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DECODING THE HU162 LOCK PART 2
We decode in the same direction as we picked the lock; towards the spring. We very gently run the lift arms reading arrow along the line until it makes contact with the wafer, we then use a little more pressure to push past the spring until the arrow stops again. This will be the key cut reading you need at its second and final stop position after pushing past the spring.
Position 2 decodes as a number 4 key cut.
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Decoding is straight forward we start at position 1 and work through to position 8, writing our decode down as we go with the lock held in the picked open position. Let’s decode this lock:
1
Position 3 decodes as a number 4 key cut.
4
Position 1 decodes as a No 2 key cut.
2
Position 4 decodes as a number 2 key cut.
5 8
Position 5 decodes as a number 1 key cut.
6 Position 8 decodes as a number 3 key cut.
Position 6 decodes as a number 4 key cut.
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So, the lock has given us a decode of “24421413”, this is our Lishi decode, but if you enter this decode into the cut to code machines it will cut the wrong key every time. This is due to how the cut to code machines read and measure these keys, which I will explain in the next section. The first generation of Lishi HU162 8 cut tools only has 4 cut heights on the grid. This doesn’t prevent you from decoding the lock, the 5 cut sits well above the 4 line on the grid, the same distance from the 4 line as the 3 line sits from it, so it’s easy to spot. Later generations of the 8 cut tool have all 5 cuts on them.
Position 7 decodes as a number 1 key cut.
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How to work out the cuts to enter into your cut to code machine to cut a working key from the Lishi decode. With the HU162 8 cut lock, it is not quite as simple as picking and decoding the lock, then entering your decode in the machine and cutting a working key like with other locks. Why is this?
Position
1
2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Top Track
2
x 4 x x 4 x 3
Bottom Track
x
4 x 2 1 x 1 x
To explain this more clearly, here is a photo explaining where the cuts you have decoded sit on the key:
The reason is that the most common cut to code machines from Keyline and from Silca only decode the top track of the key. The Lishi tool is giving you decoded cuts from both the top track of the key and the bottom track of the key, so it’s not the format the machine wants the cuts entered in. Therefore, we must do a little work with our Lishi decode to work out the cut format that the cut to code machines want us to enter the cuts in - this isn’t difficult to do. Despite the Lishi tool picking and decoding the lock in a 2 down 2 up format, this isn’t how the lock and key interact, so the decoded cuts you have will interact on the key differently to how many imagine. Our Lishi decode of “24421413” needs to be entered in the following format:
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So, from your decode positions 1,3,6 and 8 sit on the top track of the key, and positions 2,4,5 and 7 sit on the bottom track of the key. Knowing this, we can fill in the empty spaces with the correct opposite values, remembering that: 1 cut on top always sits next to a 5 cut on the bottom. 2 cut on top always sits opposite a 4 cut on the bottom.
3 cut on top always sits opposite a 3 cut on the bottom. 4 cut on top always sits opposite a 2 cut on the bottom. 5 cut on top always sits opposite a 1 cut on the bottom. And vice versa. When filling in the blank spaces marked with an X on your decode with the correct opposite values, you will quickly have the full key as in the below photo:
You can simplify this a little without writing tables down. From your Lishi decode of “24421413” simply reverse the values in positions 2, 4, 5 and 7 of the Lishi decode and it becomes “22445453” which is also the full cuts for the top track of the key, so be ready to enter into your machine. I hope this guide will simplify picking and decoding this lock and understanding how to work out the correct key cuts to enter in your cut to code machine in order to cut the correct key. With practice, this takes just a few minutes to work out from the Lishi decode and makes short work of this well engineered complex lock.
Therefore, from the full photo above, we now have the full key. The complete top and bottom tracks of the key are now known. So, with Keyline and Silca machines, they want you to enter the top track cuts of the key only. For this lock for Silca and Keyline machines, you would enter the full top track of the key into the machine - “22445453” is what you need to enter in order to cut the correct key on these machines.
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HU162 9 CUT WITH 3 SIDE CUTS GUIDE Working out the correct side cuts from a 9 cut HU162 from the decode given by the HU162 9 cut ignition 2in1 pick and decoder. In this section of the guide, I want to discuss how to work out the correct side cuts when all you have is the 9 conventional cuts obtained by picking and decoding the ignition with the 9 cut ignition 2in1 tool. It is not quite as simple as just picking and decoding the lock. What you will need to enter value-wise into your cut to code machine will be determined by your machine choice. The cutting cards for the side cuts differ on Silca cutting cards and on Instacode, so depending which machine you use will determine which cutting values you use. Also, how your machine cuts the key will also have a bearing on how you enter what you have read. I will show how to enter what you have read on the Ninja Laser machine, so it’s relevant for those using Keyline
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cut to code machines. I decode the ignition lock with the Lishi 9 cut ignition tool and got the following decode from bow to tip, positions 1 to 9. My decode was 343344441. If I entered this into my Ninja Laser, it would cut the wrong key, and you won’t work out the side cuts from this reading easily, so I simplify this below. I will start with how to work out the side cuts and then show how to cut this on Ninja Laser. My Lishi pick read a decode of 343344441. Pictured below is how the tool has read the key in photo form. Black values are the top track of the key and red values are the bottom track of the key.
As we know from the previous site reading guides, the 9 cut lock follows a pattern of 1 up, 1 down, 1 up, 1 down, 2 up, 1 down, 1 up, 1 down. The above photo shows how
and on which track the tool reads the key. We know from the site reading guide that positions 1 to 3 only use 4 key cut heights, 1 to 4, but positions 4 to 9 use 5 key cut heights, 1 to 5. We also know that every cut on top track has its opposite cut sat opposite it on the bottom track and vice versa. Knowing this is important as it helps us work out the full key - full top track cuts and full bottom track cuts. Below is the photo of the full key. Again, the top track values are in black and bottom track values are in red.
out the side cuts needed on the top track and on the bottom track of the side profiles. The top side cut side is the side with the groove in the key! If using the Instacode cutting cards where the side cuts highest cut is 4 and deepest cut is 1, then the side cuts will be the same as conventional cuts, as follows: Top track side cuts will be the same as top track conventional cuts, so top side cuts will be 313. Bottom track side cuts will be the same as the bottom conventional cuts, so the bottom side cuts will be 242. If using Silca cutting cards, it will be the opposite as they use 1 as the highest cut and 4 as the deepest cut, so the side cuts to enter will be as follows:
So, from our tool reading of 343344441, I have shown you where on the key this is read from, and in the above photo, how to work out the full top track and bottom track cuts. From this photo, it is simple to work
Top track side cuts will be the same as the bottom track conventional cuts, so top side cuts are 242. Bottom side cuts will be the same as the top track key cuts, so the side cuts to enter will be 313. So, they are opposite values on the
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side cuts depending on what machine you use to cut them by code. Below is the side cut photos for this key I decoded. The values differ for Instacode card users and Silca card users, so I have listed Instacode values in black and Silca values in red. TOP SIDE CUTS
So regardless of which cutting cards you use, you can simply work out the side cuts needed. Which machine you use determines how you must enter the decode you obtained from the Lishi 9 cut ignition tool, so knowing your machine and how it requires the key to be entered is really important. For instance, when using a Keyline machine - in this case, the Ninja Laser - you have to do some work, following how I have done it in this guide.
BOTTOM SIDE CUTS
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If I was to simply enter what I read with the Lishi tool into Ninja Laser, then it would cut the incorrect key. As you are aware, the decode from the Lishi tool was 343344441 - now if I enter this in Ninja Laser, it doesn’t know what track to put these cuts onto, so it puts them on the top track. Compare the below
We know that the top was read on positions 1356 and 8, and the bottom track read on positions 247 and 9. This is the same throughout the 9 cut series. Once we have the full top and bottom track decoded, we enter just the top track values in the Ninja Laser. It will then want the side cut value on top side track, as Ninja follows Instacode, enter the cuts in positions 1 to 3.
photos: 1st is the actual key, and the next (above) photo is what Ninja Laser wants to cut from the Lishi decode entered directly: You can see that the key would be totally incorrect as Ninja has applied my reading from Lishi to the top track. To get around this and enter and cut the correct key every time, you must:
Ninja doesn’t want you to enter the opposite true values for the bottom side cuts. Instead, you enter the same values as the top track. It then knows what to cut there. You have your Lishi 9 cut ignition tool decode of 343344441, so understanding the series, you know this relates to top track positions 13568 and bottom track positions 2479. Now you can begin your full key table.
Get your decode from the Lishi tool in this example: 343344441. Make a table up so you know where this has read following the correct configuration of series.
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Fill in the blanks inserting the exact opposite value into the grid. Remember in positions 1, 2 and 3, only 4 cut heights are used. 1 sits opposite a 4 cut 2 sits opposite a 3 cut 3 sits opposite a 2 cut 4 sits opposite a 1 cut Now you need to remember that positions 4 to 9 use 5 cut heights, so in these positions: 1 sits opposite a 5 cut 2 sits opposite a 4 cut 3 sits opposite a 3 cut 4 sits opposite a 2 cut 5 sits opposite a 1 cut If we follow these tables, we can infill the gaps on each track with the correct cut until we end up with the complete conventional key cuts on each track, as in next photo:
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Due to how Ninja Laser inputs the cuts, we must now enter just the complete top track of the key, 313344245, as per the below photo: As you can see, it’s the same as our complete key pattern. We must now enter the top side cuts, which will be the same as the first 3 positions of the key cuts. We enter 313 as shown.
We must also enter the same value for the bottom side cuts with Ninja: You can now see that I have the same side cuts for top and bottom. TOP SIDE CUTS
You can now proceed to cut the correct key on Ninja Laser from the decode you obtained from the Lishi 9 cut ignition tool. It is important you know which side track values your machine uses either Instacode or Silca values, and also how you must enter these into the machine to cut the correct key. An exercise I suggest trying is using my Lishi decode of 343344441, enter this in your machine and compare the key photo to the key displayed on your screen. This will show you how you need to adapt your reading to fit the machine.
BOTTOM SIDE CUTS
Then, do the same with the side cut readings until you get the same pattern as the above photos. You will then know your machine and how to perfectly cut these keys in the future.
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AS K T H E E X P E RT Are you a locksmith unable to get a job done? Got a burning question, but not sure who to ask for advice on the latest products and tools? World leading auto locksmith professional Martin Pink is here to help! Each issue he will be answering some of your auto locksmithing questions, so if you’re in need of expert advice, get in touch! Question 1: How do I make the Toyota magic chip for older 4c models? Answer: You need a tool that can write manually to 4C cloning chips, Silca RW4 allows this as does some other tools. You need to write the following logic to a 4C cloning chip like GK24, GK100, TPX1, ews head as an example. The logic to write is: 7E 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 7E 00 00
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Question 2: I used battery support on my 2017 Vivaro van to charge the battery and add a spare key, now I have my info screen unable to connect to auto stop start and other modules. The service light is on and comes up saying battery charging fault, van starts fine and drives fine on all keys including the new one. Recovery have been out and diagnosed BCM fault, have I corrupted something doing the spare key?
support or charging in vehicle, instead you should connect the negative lead to a good earth on the vehicle.
You will get away with it nine out of ten times, then when unlucky this happens and it can be a head scratcher. From the issues you have, it is just a blown 5-amp fuse, but the fuse is hard to find unless you know where it is. The fuse that will have blown is a 5-amp fuse hidden inside a plastic moulding on the power distribution unit, this is attached Answer: to the battery and sits at the back of the I have had this before, battery box and the issue isn’t with battery. Remove this, your key, but will open the moulding have been caused and change the by putting battery 5-amp fuse and all support on the vehicle will return to normal. and charging the battery in vehicle. As It’s also worth checking stop start is fitted, the wires on the plug you will have an AGM that connect to the battery with a current negative post current sensor unit on the sensor unit, these are negative post. You prone to split chafe should not connect and you can get a to the negative post short which blows when adding battery this fuse.
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