I
t’s a cultural cliché to say that everything
learned to cook and forage for edibles in the
ful way to preserve your harvest whether it’s
old is new again, and yet in the culinary
woods, but then she headed off to the big city
fruit preserves or pickled ramps you’ve gath-
to make her fortune. The hectic life of an in-
ered.
vestment banker made her miserable, though,
What are some “forgotten” ingredients we
so she sought out ways to get reconnected to a
should all be revisiting?
world, that’s never been truer. Food preparation methods that date back to pioneer
days (and were born and practiced out of necessity)
past in which she’d felt happy and free. Stints at
Purslane is wonderful. You can find it in the
are currently being resurrected and championed by
New York’s Blue Hill Restaurant and a culinary
sidewalk cracks. It has more omega 3s than
some of our most forward-thinking cooks.
internship in France taught her about paying
fish, and a naturally tart flavor, so you don’t re-
the karmic price for food—she killed a turkey
ally need dressing when you make it into salad.
with her own hands and learned to dress and
I have a simple and delicious recipe for purs-
cook it. Inspired, she picked up her pen to share
lane with red onion, tomatoes, hard boiled egg,
her adventures with others. And now, in addi-
salt, and olive oil. I love wonderfully bitter dan-
tion to publishing three books, she leads wom-
delion greens as well.
Not that many generations ago, it wasn’t possible to not know where our food came from (hint: it wasn’t from plastic-wrapped packages at the supermarket). That’s because we were likely actively involved in growing, slaughtering, preserving, and
en on adventure getaway weekends and offers
What are some trends you’re seeing within the
preparing it. Being hungry meant getting busy, like
modern gals the opportunity to get their hands
general return of traditional foodways?
it or not. But in the mid 20th century, that began to
dirty and learn updated pioneering skills that
I think people are finding ways to get back to
change. Convenience foods replaced time-hon-
make for a more connected and authentic life.
the land, whether by keeping backyard chick-
ored recipes and from-scratch cooking, factory
There’s a resurgence of interest in traditional
ens, a beehive on their rooftop, or planters in
techniques for hunting, growing, foraging, and
their driveways. We’re finding ways to be more
preparing food. Where do you think this cultur-
hands-on and to create a relationship with
al yearning is coming from?
whole foods and connection.
farms usurped small family farms, and fluorescent lights and nine-to-five schedules replaced the daily rhythms of the seasons. Are we better off? Two
I think it’s an antidote to the very technolo-
Can you describe some traditional techniques
chefs who champion traditional techniques and
gy-driven times we’re all living in. Trying eco-
that you’ve tweaked to adapt to modern life?
butchering skills think not. Through hunting and
nomic times are a great equalizer—it makes us
I have a great recipe for cheese that you can
foraging classes, supper clubs, and cookbooks,
ask, “What do we really need?” People are crav-
make in 30 minutes. You can make home-
ing what’s really lasting, they want to use their
made fresh butter in 15 minutes using a mixer.
hands, roll up their sleeves, get back in touch
Many of my recipes have a fun modern twist—I
with things that are more grounding.
use red wine to make popsicles, and preserve
What are your three favorite traditional food
strawberries with balsamic and black pepper in
techniques?
homemade fruit roll-ups.
I’m a big proponent of brining—brining is the
What other aspects of your daily life are im-
key to making wild game more palatable and
pacted as you embrace a return to traditional
preserving the vegetables you’ve gathered or
foodways?
grown. I’m also very intrigued with smoking
I now see possibility in the backyard and on ur-
foods. There are so many different ways to
ban streets. I see the natural world differently
Georgia Pellegrini grew up fishing for trout for
flavor smoke with herbs, or by using different
and have a symbiotic relationship with it—I
breakfast on her family’s property in upstate
woods when you’re smoking cheese, fish, or
know how to interact with it instead of keeping
New York. At the side of her grandmother, she
meat. And of course there’s canning, a wonder-
it at arm’s length.
each seeks to be a guide through our culinary heritage, perhaps tweaked for modern life but best not forgotten.
Georgia Pellegrini Owner, Adventure Getaways; Author, Food Heroes, Girl Hunter, and Modern Pioneering
tribeza.com
june
2014
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