TREND online
CONTENTS.
LIFESTYLE
04 Environmental Injustice and
its impact 08 Statue Squabble
10 How to be an Ally in Times
of Injustice
FASHION
16 Supporting Black-owned Brands
20 Whitewashing of the Model
Industry
TFM FASHION
24 Black Fashion Designers: A Legacy of Inspiration
26 Systematic Racism in the Fashion Industry
TFM LIFESTYLE 30 Jack Trice: The Legend Himself
BEAUTY
36 Blackfishing: What it is
and How it has Become so Controversial 40 Simply Sรกmone 42 More Than Skin Deep: How and Why Black-Owned Beauty Brands are Fighting for Cosmetic Equality
LIFESTY
YLE. 04 ENVIRONMENTAL
INJUSTICE AND ITS IMPACT
08 STATUE SQUABBLE 10 HOW TO BE AN ALLY IN
TIMES OF INJUSTICE
ENVIRONMENTAL INJUSTICE AND ITS IMPACT By Kaylei Fear
In the wake of the Black Lives Matter movement, many issues regarding the lives of people of color have been brought to the forefront in the media. Police brutality, mass incarceration, the socioeconomic divide and now, environmental injustice. The focus on environmental injustice needs to become a front runner alongside the BLM movement’s other demands, but what exactly is environmental injustice? The multiracial grassroots organization Greenaction for Health and Environmental Justice defines environmental injustice as “the disproportionate impact of environmental hazards on people of color.” Think of Flint, Michigan’s water crisis, one of the most famous and heartbreaking examples of environmental injustice. Here, two Iowa State University students share their thoughts and opinions on environmental injustice and how we can take a stand and be an ally. Environmental injustice can mean different things to different people, depending on their life experiences. Jo Allen is a senior majoring in journalism and minoring in women and gender studies and is head of social media for Ames BLM. “To me, environmental injustice is the lack of access to basic necessities such as clean water and clean air, based on location, race and the environment of that spot,” Allen said. “Minority communities often times live closer to sewage sites, factories and toxic waste sites. This disproportionate exposure to environmental harms in low-income, minority communities are known as ‘environmental injustice.’” Byshawn Davis is a senior majoring in apparel, merchandising and design with a focus on the apparel design aspect. He grew up most of his life in Chicago and later moved to Madison, Wisconsin, in high school.
“Environmental injustice is a way in which minorities or a group of people in a neighborhood are targeted for specific things,” Davis said. Thanks to the Black Lives Matter movement, more of these critical and urgent issues are being brought to light. To Allen, environmental justice is essential, “because, in the long run, this is killing our children of color. While it might not seem like a top concern, this is affecting their overall health and shortening their life expectancy. Those who are empowered by environmental injustice understand that it protects humanity and other lives by protecting the environment.” To help Black lives, we must help in all aspects, including the way minorities are impacted by the environment. “We’re all human, people in Flint literally do not have clean water to drink. Why is having clean water for them, even a debate?” Davis said. Whether or not the people of Flint should have clean water or minorities should not have their health impacted by environmental racism should not be a political debate. It is an issue about human rights. Now the most crucial aspect is how we can be an ally and make an actual change in dealing with environmental injustice. People who live in these communities and people who live nowhere near these communities need to start caring if a change will happen.
“When a whole community comes together and voices their opinions, more than likely, they are going to be heard,” Davis said. “So when we are all together as a family fighting for one thing, it is extremely powerful.” Allen adds to this by stating, “I believe that sitting down and writing out your privileges shows you what you may not have been thinking of before. For example, most of us grew up with immediate access to water, but that is not the same case for everyone. Once we realize the privilege of access to clean water and air, we can then understand how to help others who may not have the same privilege in life. Being an ally means a lot of listening, empathy and service. You should want to help others have the access to a fair life.” We need to hold ourselves accountable and check our privilege when it comes to issues with environmental injustice. If we want actual change to happen, we must start in our own community. “It starts with using your voice in your own community! We should have a say in what we believe should be built around us. We must ensure community awareness regarding environmental issues and the decision-making processes in areas that affect their daily lives,” Allen said. Start fighting for environmental justice today by being an ally and educating yourself on the issue.
STATUE
SQUABBLE. By Loretta McGraw
Standing tall and proud, while at the same time perhaps a mockery of people’s pain, are many statues and monuments today. Whereas many feel that history ought to remain in the books, others proudly tout it on display. Southern states are full of figures memorizing confederate officers. America is one of few countries that glamorizes its Civil War in such a manner, although no others tote such an extensive collection. History ought to be remembered, but how and what it’s being preserved for is being called into question. Iowa State University, located in Ames, Iowa, is not new to controversy. Dating back to 1995 when the Carrie Chapman Catt Hall first found itself in hot water. The 1892 building takes the namesake of an 1880 Iowa State graduate, Carrie Chapman, a prominent leader in the women’s suffrage movement. Chapman was supportive of permitting women the right to vote. Students revived their protests, calling for a renaming of Catt Hall due to allegations of white supremacy endorsement. The highly debated statement in question reads, “white supremacy will be strengthened, not weakened, by women’s suffrage,” according to a 1996 Associated Press article published in the New York Times. Iowa State University President Wendy Wintersteen established a committee following the September 29th movement, protests and debates in various formats, including a petition to establish principles on renaming monuments on campus. Rita Mookerjee, Assistant Teaching Professor of Sociology, alongside colleagues Ruxandra Looft, the Director of the Margaret Sloss Center For Women and Gender Equity and Michèle Schaal an Associate Professor of World Languages and Cultures co-authored a Collective statement calling for changing the name of Catt Hall in early July in which they obtained 423 signatures from Iowa State students, staff, administrators, faculty and alumni in a span of 72 hours. “Renaming the building does not mean erasing history,” said Looft, Mookerjee and Schaal.“During this time of unprecedented division in this country and global calls for racial justice, we vow to promote equity and inclusion on campus.” However, this is not the first time a dedication at the campus caused criticism. A plaque was placed on the Iowa State campus south of LeBaron Hall in 1927 to acknowledge Iowa State graduate William Temple Hornaday’s work as a conservationist.
Its removal occurred June 11, 2020, shortly after a thread of tweets from Carleen Silva, a Multicultural Student Affairs summer intern and Iowa State alumna (‘18), surfaced about the history of a Hornaday exhibit which featured Ota Benga, a Congolese pygmy, in the Monkey House of the Bronx Zoo in 1906. The sudden abolition of this marker strikes up hope for individuals requesting the same of Catt Hall’s formal name. As the Black Lives Matter movement gained traction following the fatal asphyxiation of Minneapolis resident George Floyd on May 25, 2020. With the rising momentum of BLM, there has been an increasing value of public outcry nationwide to remove supposedly racially offensive monuments. 43 out of 771 Confederate Statues are located in Tennessee, according to the Southern Poverty Law Center. A local petition has over 23,000 out of the 25,000 signature goal, with the ambition to replace all confederate statues in Tennessee with Dolly Parton. Brian Meyer, associate director for strategic communications in the Office of Strategic Relations and Communications, serves as one of 20 members of the Committee to Establish Principles on Renaming, chaired by Vice President for Diversity and Inclusion Reginald Stewart and Faculty Senate President Carol Faber. “The charge from President Wintersteen, given to the Committee to Establish Principles on Renaming in July, is, to develop a policy to ensure a consistent, evidence-based and historically thoughtful means by which to evaluate historical naming and honors, in recognition of Iowa State’s commitment to research and factual evidence, academic freedom and intellectual inquiry,” said Meyer. Protesters and public officials nationwide have made demands to remove all public statues and monuments perceived to be symbols of racism in the US. Many thus far have been expelled forcibly by protesters, ordered so by city councils or, in the case of the 105-year-old controversial South’s Defenders Memorial Monument in Lake Charles, La., removed via natural disaster.
“ISU needs to denounce hate speech and remember its role as an R1 institution,” said Mookerjee. “We are a university founded on innovation. We can only continue to produce excellent work if our campus climate is equitable, welcoming and supportive to all sorts of people.”
From left to right Model 1: Vest and white button up: thrifted. Pants: Forever 21. Jewelry and Nike Af1s: Model owned. Model 2: Blazer: Banana Republic. Pants and cami: Wal Mart. Hoops: Forever 21.
HOW TO BE AN ALLY IN TIMES OF INJUSTICE. By Clarissa Merschman
Two Iowa State students offer advice on how to be a good ally to the BLM movement and help to propel the movement forward via peaceful protests and social media. People of all races can be seen supporting the BLM movement both on social media and in person. Yory McGowan, junior studying animal ecology and David Carr offer guidance on how to join and promote the movement in a way that aligns with the values of BLM and remains respectful. “I think social media is a big, big platform that you can get people aware [of the movement],” Carr said. “So allies posting is super cool, plus it educates their friends.” Carr believes social media is a great way for allies to influence their friends and get a conversation started about the movement. He also thinks potential allies may be better reached by an ally of the movement because they set a good example worth following. A point both McGowan and Carr make about an ally’s social media posting is making sure what a person is posting is authentic. It is easy to sit behind a screen and claim these values, but the difference is being able to back up what one is posting about by how they go about their everyday lives. “Just be about that life, don’t be afraid to get into uncomfortable conversations just because you aren’t the minority,” McGowan said. “Be open minded and be prepared for whatever people throw at you,” said McGowin. Being educated on the movement is a crucial part of being a good ally. Taking the time to learn about the movement to know exactly what they are representing and knowing about the culture is important. Being able to have informed conversations with people is what keeps the movement alive and keeps it in the forefront of people’s minds. Unfortunately, some people have begun claiming the title of a BLM ally due to its popularity rather than actually wanting to support the movement. Rather than recognizing the movement as something that impacts peoples lives and wellbeing, they treat it like a fun new trend. “People used it to get more views or get more likes, they just saw it for the popularity aspect,” McGowan said. “It was trending so they thought they might as well follow the trend.” When comparing social media posting and in person protest support, Carr prefers people showing up in person. “I would rather have someone be present because it is a lot harder to be there. It’s so easy to post a black square and be like ‘oh yeah I support that,”’ Carr said. Plus you’re out there with the people protesting, being there for them and being supportive,” said Carr. Carr still believes that allies posting on social media is important to do in regards to the movement, however it is better to do it in addition to attending to support people in person during protests and events.
FASHION
N.
16 SUPPORTING BLACK-
OWNED BRANDS
20 WHITEWASHING OF THE
MODEL INDUSTRY
SUPPORTING BLACK-OWNED BRANDS By Jillian Gabby
In today’s cultural climate, racial injustice has been brought to the forefront after atrocious displays of police brutality. Fortunately, the Black Lives Matter movement has been doing a transformative job in bringing about change. After protesting, voting and speaking out on social media platforms, many wonder what else can be done to continue being an ally. Supporting and buying from Black-owned companies is one way to continue the BLM momentum of change. Unfortunately, Black-owned brands have often received neither the acclaim they deserve nor are they given widespread attention. Hannah Oyibo, who enjoys shopping at local Black-owned brands like Body Butter Lady, spoke about why it is so important to “uplift these businesses instead of letting them crumble.” “So many large corporations are run mainly by white people. A Black-owned business doesn’t generate as much business due to the fact that it is a black person who owns it,” Oyibo said. “Sadly, it’s looked on as not as high of quality or as great of a brand because society deems it to be that way”.
Iowa State senior studying apparel merchandising and design, Byshawn Davis, a designer who has created lines, which you can find on his website, (byshawndavis.com), explained why it is so important to support Black-owned brands. “It helps close the racial wealth gap that is so large in the United States at the moment,” Davis said. “It also helps local economies become stronger. It helps the unemployment rate with African Americans go down and helps celebrate black culture and services communities.” Davis talked about how it can even hold other companies accountable who aren’t supporting Black communities. “When you pick a Black-owned brand instead of someone like Gucci, who’s been in a lot of heat for offensive garments, you hold those brands accountable for their actions.” Making the educated choice to shop and support Blackowned brands shifts the power. We as consumers have the decision to put our money into who we stand for and what we believe in.
This negative societal view has been going on for quite some time. Anne Lowe, “Society’s best-kept secret”, was considered an elite dress designer of high society in the 1950s. Lowe made the dress Olivia de Havilland wore when she won an Oscar. However, Lowe was never mentioned and in fact, her name was not even put on the label of the dress. She also designed the wedding dress Jackie O. wore, but only received credit as a “colored designer.”
Supporting Black-owned businesses doesn’t necessarily mean you need to go to great lengths. There are plenty of small, locally owned Black businesses who need support. It is often as simple as looking on Depop, or doing a little research and following Black-owned brands on Instagram or Twitter. “It’s really easy to Google it or talk to someone who is familiar with the area or you could contact the Black Student Association on campus,” said Davis.
Patrick Kelly, designer of the ‘90s and known for his bright and bold designs, also made moves to put a stop to racism. Kelly reclaimed symbols of Black oppression, most notably the blackface, which he made into his iconic logo. Though investors asked him to stop the use of his logo and U.S. retailers refused to buy anything bearing his logo, Kelly was not deterred.
Support can be interactive as well.“Repost things on your stories and share posts of Black-owned businesses. Show people what you buy from there, talk about it in a positive light just like you would any other place, or share how awesome it is to support Black-owned businesses by word of mouth,” said Oyibo.
Kimora Lee Simmons wanted to give women a voice in the streetwear fashion industry and created Baby Phat, becoming the first Black woman to run a billion-dollar business. Today we have Rihanna running the game, dominating not only the music industry but all things beauty and fashion with her Fenty lines. These accomplished designers do not even begin to cover all of the Black-owned brands that have shaped fashion.
Shop Black brands and spread the word so they aren’t the “best-kept secret,” but the best trending place to shop. Showing support, in any way, is helpful in the fight to end racism. As Davis states, “Any support is helpful support.”
From left to right: Model 1: Jeans and shirt: Portobello Road. Hoops: Nasty Gal. Model 2: Shirt and flannel: Portobello Road. Pants, shoes and jewelry: Model owned Model 3 Jean jacket: Comittee owned. Top: Portobello Road . Jeans and shoes: Model owned. Model 4 UNIF shirt: Comittee owned. Pants and shoes: Model owned.
WHITEWASHING OF THE MODEL INDUSTRY By Lauren Gabby
From left to right Model 1: Blazer: Banana Republic. Pants and cami: Wal Mart. Hoops: Forever 21. Model 2: Blazer: Banana Republic. Top and pants: Comittee owned. Necklace and hoops: Forever 21
With the Black Lives Matter movement becoming more prevalent than ever, large companies and organizations are starting to listen to and promote activists, as well as look at racism within their own organizations. The fashion industry has had multiple issues with microaggression, racism and cultural appropriation, many that are still happening today. An area that has especially struggled throughout the years is the modeling industry and its lack of diversity and inclusion. Magazines and runways are well-known for being whitewashed. Going back to the ‘90s and early-2000s, runways were full of white, thin models. While there were well-known Black supermodels such as Naomi Campbell and Tyra Banks the industry was still predominantly white. Lexi Stumpf, a senior majoring in apparel design, said that she did notice the lack of diversity growing up. “It would be very uncommon to find a representation of celebrities and icons that looked like me and if there were any, they would often play the role of the sidekick and never the lead,” Stumpf said. “You wouldn’t see their face on the front pages or covers. This made me feel like in order to be considered beautiful in society, I had to have more European features and that my natural features were wrong.” Since then, Black models have been gaining more spotlight. Maria Borges was the first model to walk the Victoria Secret fashion show with her natural hair in 2015 and in 2016 Precious Lee was the first Black, plussize model to be featured in Vogue. Artistic Directors are finally realizing the importance of diversity in their shows, although critics claim this progress may be due to the current trend. “As the BLM movement grows across media platforms, I have noticed a lot of fashion labels posting photos only of their black or diverse models,” Stumpf said. “I love to see this refreshing change, but my only wish is that it is here to stay and not just a temporary thing because it’s becoming “trending”. I hope to see a cultural shift in the fashion industry for hiring black women
for all work as designers, creatives, models, etc. so that we can see proper and genuine representation.” The modeling industry has also been tough on Black models. From not knowing how to properly style a Black woman’s hair to talking down to models, leaders have failed to do their jobs professionally and inclusively. Troy Walls, a print and runway model through multiple agencies gave insight on what it is like to be a Black model in the industry. “With racism in modeling, I haven’t experienced microaggression,” Walls said. “However, I have experienced ‘sorry we have someone just like you,’which means we already have a Black guy or minority male, and don’t need another. I’ve been modeling for six years and have only been paired with a white woman once for a job. It’s always a Black girl with a Black guy.” This is further proof that although we have models of all colors, they are not treated equally and the fashion industry is still not where it should be. “I think change needs to happen with people stepping outside their comfort zone on biracial media,” Walls said. “As well as becoming more aware of racial comments towards minority models.”
TFM FAS
SHION. 24
BLACK FASHION DESIGNERS: A LEGACY OF INSPIRATION
26 SYSTEMATIC RACISM IN
THE FASHION INDUSTRY
BLACK FASHION DESIGNERS BLACK FASHION DESIGNERS BLACK FASHION DESIGNERS BLACK FASHION DESIGNERS BLACK FASHION DESIGNERS BLACK FASHION DESIGNERS BLACK FASHION DESIGNERS:
A LEGACY OF INSPIRATION By Audrey McMillan
Chanel. Gucci. Dior. Louis Vuitton. These are typically the most recognized designers within the fashion industry. Countless biographies and documentaries reflect their stories. Their perfume advertisements are promoted in almost every fashion magazine and their purses are continuously sought after. But what about Black designers? How often are their stories shared and used as a source of inspiration for young, aspiring designers? The answer is: not often. With the Black Lives Matter movement rising in relevance, Black designers are starting to receive the recognition they deserve - which has been deserved for decades. Generation Z looks up to influencers including; Beyoncé, ASAP Rocky, Kanye West, Zendaya and the designers who they promote. Designers like Virgil Abloh, Kerby Jean-Raymond and Romeo Hunte are each representative of modern culture and of the Black community. Their designs evoke passion for their culture and appreciation of history. Dale Young Jr., a junior majoring in electrical engineering is especially inspired by Virgil Abloh whom he insists is the “pioneer that made streetwear mainstream.”
As important as the work of Black designers is today, the prominence of designers like Abloh would not be possible without the work and the devotion of those before them; namely Dapper Dan. Daniel Day, more widely known as Dapper Dan, is one of the most influential designers to come out of the 1990s, however, his story is still relatively unknown. Dan’s rise to fame was by no means sudden - nor was it a traditional rags to riches story. His innovative designs transcended mere urban culture and made their way to the forefront of pop culture as stars from LL Cool J and Jay-Z sported his garments. His signature style sold primarily out of his store in Harlem, New York City, included products embellished with the designer logos of Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and countless others. Dan is often cited as the innovative force behind the streetwear trend styles which were soon replicated by the brands themselves and are mainstays of streetwear today. As successful as these designs were, he lost almost everything through copyright battles and was forced to close down his store, leading to him being essentially forgotten within the fashion industry - until recently. Dan’s legacy has been acknowledged within the past several years as the fashion industry has begun to realize the impact of Black designers. He has collaborated with Gucci, who once sued him and has made various appearances at the Met Gala, giving him long-awaited and deserved recognition. Magdaline Martinez, a junior studying apparel design student at Iowa State University, thinks that taking steps such as this is important due to the historical “underrepresentation of diverse backgrounds in the industry” for “practically no reason.”
Even though his designs are often expensive, Young believes that Abloh’s success is based on the “high value of the brand and increased demand due to the limited quantity produced and collaborations.” These relationships formed between his brand, Off-White and designers including Louis Vuitton, Nike and Levis, have contributed to Abloh’s ability to venture into various markets and into the mainstream fashion industry. His current influence on the industry is virtu- History may be irreversible; but by appreciating Black ally unmatched. designers of fashion past and future and giving them due credit, there is potential for the fashion industry to create a meaningful change.
RACISM RACISM RACISM RACISM RACISM RACISM
SYSTEMATIC
IN THE
FASHION
INDUSTRY
By Zack Brown
This year has been a whirlwind. During quarantine some of us came out as master cookie bakers, others came out as book lovers and some are still just as introverted as we were when we started. There is truly something impactful about all of the time that we spent indoors and it has nothing to do with baking and books. We learned about white fragility, white supremacy and white privilege. These topics, some of which were brand new to us, were difficult to digest at times. As we continued to stay indoors, we heard stories all over the country about racism, police brutality and violence that was directed towards POC’s. Racism has deep ties with a lot of things in this world that we are still learning about and becoming more aware of and one of the places that holds a spot for systemic racism to grow and blossom is the fashion industry. The fashion industry does not give out as many opportunities to Black men as it does to white men and women. There are times where it feels like a Black man has to work twice as hard for something that a white man is given and this can ring true for many things even outside of the fashion industry. The fashion industry doesn’t just cater to white people, it also caters to those who come from wealthy backgrounds. Byshawn Davis, senior studying apparel merchandising and design at Iowa State University, explains that “money is a big deal when it comes to the fashion industry. You have to have the funds to get what you want.” But this did not stop Davis from chasing his dreams. When asked what he would say to a Black person who may be reading this article
and thinking about going into fashion he said, “you may be in environments where you’re the only African American, but don’t let that stop you from being the best you that you can be. Rather than feeling that you don’t fit in, use you being the only African American as an advantage. As an African American, you have the knowledge that most companies lack, they lack the knowledge of the history and effort that African Americans put into everything that they do.” If you are looking to make change in the fashion industry, you can support Black-owned businesses and alternatives to your favorite brands. Kelly Reddy-Best, associate professor in apparel, events and hospitality management, suggests that, “you can support POC owned brands or brands owned by marginalized communities. For example, if you want to adopt and wear urban-style brands, buy from Blackowned brands such as FUBU, Karl Kani or Cross Colours as opposed to whiteowned brands such as Polo. You could also buy from queer-owned brands such as TomboyX just to name another example.” We need to tackle racism in all aspects of our daily lives. Some people were shocked to find out about all of the things that have been happening to the Black community recently, but the sad truth is that instances like these have been going on for a long time. So, what can you do? You can go beyond educating yourself by voting for political candidates who value POC lives. You can shop from Black-owned businesses. You can join clubs and groups that help bring light and awareness to this ongoing issue.
TFM LIFE
ESTYLE. 30 JACK TRICE:THE LEGEND
HIMSELF
N O IS B Y M A D From left to right Model 1: Vest and white button up: thrifted. Pants: Forever 21. Jewelry and Nike Af1s: model owned. Model 2: Blazer and pants: Thrifted. Necklace: Forevr 21.
D HIMSEL F EN
GARTNER M U BA
THE L EG
Every Iowa State Cyclone fan knows the beautiful Jack Trice Stadium, but what you may not know is that Iowa State University is one out of the 130 universities that play major college football to have a stadium named after an African American. Jack Trice Stadium was constructed in 1975 and was named after Iowa State’s first Black athlete, Jack Trice in 1997 according to Jeff Johnson, president and CEO of the Iowa State Alumni Association. Trice was a star player for Iowa State before he died at 21 years old on Oct. 8, 1923 after being injured in a game against Minnesota. According to an article by the New York Times, Trice was trampled during his second varsity game by the opposing players and sustained severe bruising of his intestines and inflammation of his abdomen, causing his tragic death two days after the game (Longman). Iowa State’s football team did not play Minnesota for 66 years after Trice’s death. Not only does Iowa State remember Trice through their stadium, but there is also a statue of him in the middle of campus according to Reginald Stewart, Vice President for Diversity and Inclusion at Iowa State and President of the Big 12 Conference’s Association of Diversity Officers in Higher Education. Trice’s story resonates amid the social justice movements of today, as scholars believe he may have been targeted for his race and skill at the time when the sport was mainly white. According to the Minnesota spokesman-recorder, there were active KKK members at the game against Iowa State and Trice did not know the danger surrounding him at the time. We may never know if Trice’s death was deliberate or accidental, but what’s important is that Iowa State keeps his memory alive in as many ways as possible. Darien Porter, wide receiver for the Iowa State Cyclones and sophomore studying public relations, discusses what the legend of Jack Trice means to him by saying, “I think it’s great to have African American representation for this university and being able to share a story like Jack Trice’s makes me proud to play in his stadium and wear his patch on my jersey”. Trice was one of many victims of social injustice and Iowa State continues to recognize him and all of his accomplishments as well as provide a fair, loving and just community for everyone on campus. Freshman football player Andrew Iutzwig, studying pre-business, though new to Iowa State, tells how “Jack Trice’s legacy shows how Iowa State as a program treats everyone the same, no matter who you are”.
BEAUTY.
Y.
36 BLACKFISHING: WHAT IS
IT AND HOW IT HAS BECOME SO CONTROVERSIAL
40 SIMPLY SAMONE 42 MORE THAN SKIN DEEP:
HOW AND WHY BLACKOWNED BEAUTY BRANDS AREFIGHTING FOR COSMETIC EQUALITY
BLACKF
WHAT IS IT IT HAS BE CONTROV By Emily Uitermarkt
Blackfishing has become an issue among influencers and public figures but also not only among people all over the world. Blackfishing is when non-Black people use self-tanner, bronzer, makeup, surgery or photoshop to make their skin tone appear darker than it actually is or to appear racially ambiguous. Blackfishing comes from the term Blackface, which is mocking the features of Black people by putting on dark makeup. The topic of Blackfishing has become very controversial and several big-name celebrities like Kim Kardashian-West, Rita Ora and Ariana Grande have been accused of Blackfishing. Not only are influencers and celebrities using makeup to appear darker, but they also adopt traditionally Black hairstyles. Wanna Thompson, a freelance journalist, came up with
FISHING:
T AND HOW ECOME SO VERSIAL the term “Blackfishing” and started a thread on twitter exposing white women cosplaying as Black women. Spray tans and self-tanner are just two recent trends contributing to an increase in Blackfishing. Abigail Tornell, junior studying finance, describes why she uses self-tanner. “I am naturally super pale and I have blonde hair so I feel like when I get a spray tan I look less washed out and ghostly,” says Tornell.
When asked if she thinks making her appearance darker is considered Blackfishing she says, “No because it is still close to my natural skin color just slightly darker, it is nothing dramatic.” Tornell fails to see the cultural appropriation that can accompany excessive self tan usage and instead considers it an aesthetic preference that makes her feel more attractive. In today’s society, Blackfishing has become a major issue. Black women endure struggles to be accepted at work, on the street and in the media. White women profiting from Black customs and adopting their aesthetic are protected by white privilege and do not receive the same abuse Black women may receive for these same aesthetic choices. Non-Black people enjoy using Black customs and their characteristics without receiving the discrimination of actually being Black comes with. There are better ways to appreciate Black culture without taking advantage of the heritage. Whitney Kelly, a patient care technician in Des Moines and also a member of the Black community is frustrated by Blackfishing. “Do you want the struggles that come with being Black?” Kelly asked. “Or do you want to play pretend and offend people who have no choice but to be the color they are?” The playing pretend part is the worst part,” Kelly said.” Why would you go out of your way to make a mockery of or offend people of color…Nobody has a choice but to be born the color they are.” Kelly has experienced racism in her workplace and has made those experiences sacred to her because white people will never go through the same experiences. It all comes back to white privilege and people trying to be something they were not born to be. Blackfishing is a controversial issue and surrounds us throughout everyday life. It’s important individuals are educated on the topic in order to prevent cultural misappropriation.
SIMPLY SÁMONE
SIMPLY SÁMONE By Emerson Latham
Traditionally, the beauty industry has been predominantly managed by powerful, white men. However, recent events have shed light on Black creatives who do not receive nearly the same credit or acclaim. Jassma’Ray Samone Johnson, junior studying psychology, communications and African American studies, is a young, Black female entrepreneur at Iowa State. She is the owner and founder of a vegan, crueltyfree homemade lip product brand called Simply Sámone. Johnson got her start in fourth grade when her mother would not allow her to wear lip gloss. She took matters into her own hands and created a do-it-yourself lip gloss out of vaseline and Kool-Aid. Now, Johnson has a large following on social media and has turned her passion into a business--and a successful one at that. After restocking her entire website, it took a mere three days for her to sell over 2,000 products. Brown Bombshell is Simply Sámone’s featured product to honor Black women. “I want to center Black women,” Johnson said. “I’ve been ignored, we’re always walked over, everyone looks past us. They love what we have to bring to the table but they always ignore us.” Putting Black women on a pedestal and giving them opportunities they normally would not receive is important to Johnson and the reason she is continuing work with Brown Bombshell. Johnson is defying the odds of being a young Black woman with her own business. Though she quickly accumulated a fan base shortly after her brand’s launch, she also faced scrutiny from many who didn’t take her seriously. Johnson encountered people who discredited her work by trying to get a discount off the lip products, which she found to be incredibly belittling.
“Do you go to the mall or another beauty supply and ask for a discount? No,” said Johnson. Dominiqua Watts, sophomore in elementary education, is one of Johnson’s best friends and loyal customers. “[Johnson] really takes the time to make sure the customer appreciates [her products],” Watts said. “That’s always the first thing for her.” Watts described the lip products as having a smooth-not sticky--base, in a variety of colors that compliment all complexions. “She does a good job at making sure they’re versatile,” said Watts. “She has something for everybody.” Besides selling her products on her new website, both Studio7 Salon and Spa locations in Ames started carrying Simply Sámone lip glosses and balms in August. One of Johnson’s favorite parts of her business is getting feedback from her customers. “It makes me feel good to make other people feel good,” said Johnson. Johnson plans on continuing Simply Sámone after graduation. She has many things planned for the future of her business such as t-shirts, lip scrubs and possibly eye products. Between school, running a business and being very involved in the Black Liberation Movement in Des Moines, Johnson is paving the way for more young women like her. Her brand is not just about selling a product, it is about empowering and inspiring individuals.
R E E D DB FO Y T N E I I G N L K N A OW S OW TI U H Q N H K E D G A I C E : F IC H LA P N E G T THAN W B E MORE E E N O TI D Y R M K H A OS IN Y H T C I G SKIN DEEP: I A L C K S S D IC BL REF UA OW Q Y N T H HOW AND WHY A E H E A E : H W DS M T P N E K W BLACK-OWNED N E C C D K-O T RE LA BRA ETI H C B BEAUTY N BRANDS I G M I A K S L EF UA S ND UTY CO B R ARE FIGHTING Q N A A E A E : H B R FOR Y P T COSMETIC N E H O A E W R TIC D O F RE B K E O C N I M M D EQUALITY A K S F L Y S O N T B E C N A AU R K A A E C B R TH BLA DS N FO RE Y A R H O M DW Y B W
By Jessica Mouw
Makeup is an art that not only serves as a creative outlet for millions, but plays an integral part in the daily routines of countless individuals. The simple act of applying tried and true products can simultaneously provide a sense of stability for their users while fostering confidence and empowerment. But for women of color, finding quality cosmetics is often made difficult by a systematically whitewashed selection of products. However, in an industry in which quality products are often racially gatekept, dedicated Black-owned beauty brands are working restlessly to provide quality makeup for women of color.
W ED G N TI Y T I L A OW H D E N G W N O TI H G I F
Colored Raine Cosmetics, founded by Loraine R. Dowdy, is one business providing quality cosmetics catered towards women of color. “The mission behind the brand has always been to spread awareness of diversity through beauty and to embrace all aspects of color through unity,” the mission statement says, “Loraine has always had a deep and intense love for color, and strongly believes that makeup is a toy for everyone to enjoy - which can be used to express oneself. A belief in all things beauty, with no stipulations on color, age and gender is what sets Coloured Raine apart.” Shade range is often the most publicized discrepancy in beauty availability for women of color. However, discovering cosmetics that simply suffice in terms of color is just one obstacle Black women face in the pursuit of developing a beauty routine that makes them feel confident and beautiful in their own skin. Another, less publicized barrier? The heavy presence of harmful chemicals in cosmetics catered to Black women.
Jasmine Rose, founder of Laws of Nature Cosmetics, was inspired to create her company when she began her quest towards living a lifestyle free from harmful chemicals such as mercury, parabens, lead and talc. She found it incredibly difficult to find a quality foundation that would suit both her skin tone and sensitive skin type. In her company’s mission statement, she features a daunting statistic from the Environmental Working Group (EWG); “75% of products marketed to Black Women score high in potentially hazardous ingredients. Rose has dedicated her livelihood to creating products that make Black women look and feel beautiful without taking any toll on their health. “I love all our foundations. However, the one I reach for daily is our Foxy Finish Mineral Creme Foundation in the satin finish. It’s a customer favorite and #1 bestseller. It contains organic Green Tea, which soothes my sensitive, acne-prone skin. I always follow-up with our Foxy Finish Mineral Loose Foundation for lasting coverage. And it doesn’t clog your pores, so I use it daily.” Rose tells TREND, in response to being asked what products of hers she is particularly proud of, “If you are looking for an affordable foundation with skin-loving ingredients in inclusive shades, try our products. We offer samples and have a shade finder on our website to compare our shade range to your existing brand to find your best match.” More information on Laws of Nature and Colored Raine can be found on their Instagrams, @ lawsofnaturecosmetics and @coloredraine, or at their websites, lawsofnaturecosmetics.com and coloredraine.com.
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