8 minute read

Whitewashing of the Model

BEAUTY.

36 BLACKFISHING: WHAT IS IT AND HOW IT HAS BECOME SO CONTROVERSIAL

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40 SIMPLY SAMONE

42 MORE THAN SKIN DEEP: HOW AND WHY BLACKOWNED BEAUTY BRANDS AREFIGHTING FOR COSMETIC EQUALITY

Blackfishing has become an issue among influencers and public figures but also not only among people all over the world. Blackfishing is when non-Black people use self-tanner, bronzer, makeup, surgery or photoshop to make their skin tone appear darker than it actually is or to appear racially ambiguous.

Blackfishing comes from the term Blackface, which is mocking the features of Black people by putting on dark makeup. The topic of Blackfishing has become very controversial and several big-name celebrities like Kim Kardashian-West, Rita Ora and Ariana Grande have been accused of Blackfishing. Not only are influencers and celebrities using makeup to appear darker, but they also adopt traditionally Black hairstyles.

Wanna Thompson, a freelance journalist, came up with

BLACKFISHING: WHAT IS IT AND HOW IT HAS BECOME SO CONTROVERSIAL

By Emily Uitermarkt

the term “Blackfishing” and started a thread on twitter exposing white women cosplaying as Black women.

Spray tans and self-tanner are just two recent trends contributing to an increase in Blackfishing. Abigail Tornell, junior studying finance, describes why she uses self-tanner.

“I am naturally super pale and I have blonde hair so I feel like when I get a spray tan I look less washed out and ghostly,” says Tornell. When asked if she thinks making her appearance darker is considered Blackfishing she says, “No because it is still close to my natural skin color just slightly darker, it is nothing dramatic.”

Tornell fails to see the cultural appropriation that can accompany excessive self tan usage and instead considers it an aesthetic preference that makes her feel more attractive.

In today’s society, Blackfishing has become a major issue. Black women endure struggles to be accepted at work, on the street and in the media. White women profiting from Black customs and adopting their aesthetic are protected by white privilege and do not receive the same abuse Black women may receive for these same aesthetic choices.

Non-Black people enjoy using Black customs and their characteristics without receiving the discrimination of actually being Black comes with. There are better ways to appreciate Black culture without taking advantage of the heritage.

Whitney Kelly, a patient care technician in Des Moines and also a member of the Black community is frustrated by Blackfishing.

“Do you want the struggles that come with being Black?” Kelly asked. “Or do you want to play pretend and offend people who have no choice but to be the color they are?”

The playing pretend part is the worst part,” Kelly said.”Why would you go out of your way to make a mockery of or offend people of color…Nobody has a choice but to be born the color they are.”

Kelly has experienced racism in her workplace and has made those experiences sacred to her because white people will never go through the same experiences.

It all comes back to white privilege and people trying to be something they were not born to be. Blackfishing is a controversial issue and surrounds us throughout everyday life. It’s important individuals are educated on the topic in order to prevent cultural misappropriation.

SIMPLY SÁMONE

By Emerson Latham

Traditionally, the beauty industry has been predominantly managed by powerful, white men. However, recent events have shed light on Black creatives who do not receive nearly the same credit or acclaim.

Jassma’Ray Samone Johnson, junior studying psychology, communications and African American studies, is a young, Black female entrepreneur at Iowa State. She is the owner and founder of a vegan, crueltyfree homemade lip product brand called Simply Sámone.

Johnson got her start in fourth grade when her mother would not allow her to wear lip gloss. She took matters into her own hands and created a do-it-yourself lip gloss out of vaseline and Kool-Aid.

Now, Johnson has a large following on social media and has turned her passion into a business--and a successful one at that. After restocking her entire website, it took a mere three days for her to sell over 2,000 products.

Brown Bombshell is Simply Sámone’s featured product to honor Black women.

“I want to center Black women,” Johnson said. “I’ve been ignored, we’re always walked over, everyone looks past us. They love what we have to bring to the table but they always ignore us.”

Putting Black women on a pedestal and giving them opportunities they normally would not receive is important to Johnson and the reason she is continuing work with Brown Bombshell.

Johnson is defying the odds of being a young Black woman with her own business. Though she quickly accumulated a fan base shortly after her brand’s launch, she also faced scrutiny from many who didn’t take her seriously.

Johnson encountered people who discredited her work by trying to get a discount off the lip products, which she found to be incredibly belittling. Dominiqua Watts, sophomore in elementary education, is one of Johnson’s best friends and loyal customers.

“[Johnson] really takes the time to make sure the customer appreciates [her products],” Watts said. “That’s always the first thing for her.”

Watts described the lip products as having a smooth-- not sticky--base, in a variety of colors that compliment all complexions.

“She does a good job at making sure they’re versatile,” said Watts. “She has something for everybody.”

Besides selling her products on her new website, both Studio7 Salon and Spa locations in Ames started carrying Simply Sámone lip glosses and balms in August.

One of Johnson’s favorite parts of her business is getting feedback from her customers.

“It makes me feel good to make other people feel good,” said Johnson.

Johnson plans on continuing Simply Sámone after graduation. She has many things planned for the future of her business such as t-shirts, lip scrubs and possibly eye products.

Between school, running a business and being very involved in the Black Liberation Movement in Des Moines, Johnson is paving the way for more young women like her. Her brand is not just about selling a product, it is about empowering and inspiring individuals.

W MORE THAN SKIN DEEP: HOW AND WHY BLACK-OWNED BEAUTY BRANDS ARE FIGHTING FOR COSMETIC COSMETIC EQUALITY MORE THAN SKIN DEEP: HOW AND BLACK WHY BLACK-OWNED BEAUTY BRANDS AREFIGHTING FOR COSMETIC EQUALITY MORE THAN SKIN DEEP: HOW AND WHY BLACK-OWNED BEAUTY BRAN AREFIGHTING FOR COSMETIC EQUALITY MORE THAN SKIN DEEP: HOW ANDWHY BLACK BLACK-OWNED BEAUTY BRANDS ARE FIGHTING MORE THAN SKIN DEEP: HOW AND WHY BLACK-OWNED BEAUTY BRANDS ARE FIGHTING FOR COSMETIC EQUALITY Makeup is an art that not only serves as a creative outlet for millions, but plays an integral part in the daily routines of countless individuals. The simple act of applying tried and true products can simultaneously provide a sense of stability for their users while fostering confidence and empowerment. But for women of color, finding quality cosmetics is often made difficult by a systematically whitewashed selection of products. However, in an industry in which quality products are often racially gatekept, dedicated Black-owned beauty brands are working restlessly to provide quality makeup for women of color. Colored Raine Cosmetics, founded by Loraine R. Dowdy, is one business providing quality cosmetics catered towards women of color. “The mission behind the brand has always been to spread awareness of diversity through beauty and to embrace all aspects of color through unity,” the mission statement says, “Loraine has always had a deep and intense love for color, and strongly believes that makeup is a toy for everyone to enjoy - which can be used to express oneself. A belief in all things beauty, with no stipulations on color, age and gender is what sets Coloured Raine apart.” Shade range is often the most publicized discrepancy in beauty availability for women of color. However, discovering cosmetics that simply suffice in terms of color is just one obstacle Black women face in the pursuit of developing a beauty routine that makes them feel confident and beautiful in their own skin. Another, less publicized barrier? The heavy presence of harmful chemicals in cosmetics catered to Black women. By Jessica Mouw Jasmine Rose, founder of Laws of Nature Cosmetics, was inspired to create her company when she began her quest towards living a lifestyle free from harmful chemicals such as mercury, parabens, lead and talc. She found it incredibly difficult to find a quality foundation that would suit both her skin tone and sensitive skin type.

In her company’s mission statement, she features a daunting statistic from the Environmental Working Group (EWG); “75% of products marketed to Black Women score high in potentially hazardous ingredients.

Rose has dedicated her livelihood to creating products that make Black women look and feel beautiful without taking any toll on their health.

“I love all our foundations. However, the one I reach for daily is our Foxy Finish Mineral Creme Foundation in the satin finish. It’s a customer favorite and #1 bestseller. It contains organic Green Tea, which soothes my sensitive, acne-prone skin. I always follow-up with our Foxy Finish Mineral Loose Foundation for lasting coverage. And it doesn’t clog your pores, so I use it daily.” Rose tells TREND, in response to being asked what products of hers she is particularly proud of, “If you are looking for an affordable foundation with skin-loving ingredients in inclusive shades, try our products. We offer samples and have a shade finder on our website to compare our shade range to your existing brand to find your best match.”

More information on Laws of Nature and Colored Raine can be found on their Instagrams, @ lawsofnaturecosmetics and @coloredraine, or at their websites, lawsofnaturecosmetics.com and coloredraine.com.