The Berlin Bunch

B

THE

ERLIN UNCH

PLACES | SPACES | FACES A TRAVEL GUIDE TO BERLIN FOR ALL THE DIFFERENT SIDES OF YOU

1

CONTENTS

2

Page Introduction: Places, Spaces and Faces in Berlin

4

History

6

Survival Guide

8

Transport

11

Museums & Monuments

12

FEATURE: Jüdisches Museum

29

The Streets

30

FEATURE: R.A.W. Gelänke

36

Markets/Shops/Food

38

FEATURE: A Vegetarian in Berlin

49

Outside Spaces

50

Bars & Clubs

57

FEATURE: Berlin After Dark

61

The Team

62

3

PLACES | SPACES | FACES in Berlin So, you want to go to Berlin?

Hey, don’t we all! What’s not to love about a city that specializes in being a mixture of cool, crazy, calm, intellectually savvy, delicious and just plain exciting? Yeah, that’s right; Berlin is for everyone - no matter how you would like to classify yourself. Actually, this brings us to the main point of this excerpt you happen to be reading right now. Berlin has a knack for captivating people from all walks of life, and this book has a knack for showing you where to go.

Would you rather walk around a museum all day than sit in a pub with a cold one? When you visit a city, do you aspire to know its story and how it came to be? If this sounds like you, you are in luck! Berlin has a past worth knowing, and the city is nothing short of an historic treasure cove devoted to educating the masses. From museums to cathedrals to monuments and memorials, this travel guide has it all and should be your new best friend.

4

If that didn’t sound like you, maybe this will: how much do you love spending time in nature? No, I don’t mean walking along the street. I mean nature - lakes and parks and stuff. If you would rather swim in a lake, go for a hike, stroll through a park or relax underneath a giant tree, this is your book. No, really - Berlin loves its parks and lakes, and you can bet that we do too! So, just flip through the pages, and let this book be your guide. I’m telling you, you won’t be sorry.

Maybe, you fancy the nightlife.

Does your definition of a good evening include some time at the bars, pubs or clubs? If so, well, you’re reading the right stuff too. Berlin is notorious for its nightlife. Seriously, it is not unheard of to find crowds of people leaving the clubs at 10AM. So, if this sparks your fancy, we’ve got a little something for you.

What about street fairs; do you like those? Or maybe you like music, vintage shops and bookstores.

Are you a vegetarian? If any of these sound remotely like you, then it’s a good thing you’re reading this book. Berlin is as outlandish as it is historically beautiful, and from the Turkish markets to the vintage markets to the music festivals, there is so much to do!

Now, let’s talk about foodie stuff because we all need to eat, right? YES. This city has so much to offer in the way of food that it’s hard to keep up sometimes. You have this book, though, so you’re good. Honestly, we love talking about food. We also love coffee, so if you want to go to a restaurant or café, take us with you!

Do you enjoy dressing up, shopping and spending money? I mean, is it your thing? Walk around Berlin awhile, and you will see that it’s their thing too. They love shopping, and we love telling you the best places to go to shop.

Seriously, that’s our thing!

If none of these sounded like you, then do not fear, my friend.

Berlin is the holy grail of all melting pots, and I would be lying if I said that there was not something for each and every traveler. The mission of this book is to highlight the many facets of the city, and take you on a scavenger hunt of the best of the best. So, pack this book in your bag, and be ready for the time of your life!

Look out for these symbols beside the names of reviews as a guideline to whether it might be your thing and you should not miss it in Berlin!

Insta-fan: you’re a social butterfly without a budget, you know how to stay connected via social media and you don’t want to miss something beautiful or a photo opportunity to share with the world!

Jet-setter: you’ve got the travel bug and you’ve got it bad; now its landed you in Berlin. you want to get the vibe of the city, meet like-minded travelers and open your mind!

Loud mouth: you’re always ready for another beer and on the hunt for something cool and alternative to do. The life of the party, you want to be captivated by the best of Berlin’s nightlie and social culture.

History Buff: you’ve got a list and you’ve checked it twice, you are ready to be where history has been and don’t want to miss a single thing in Berlin!

Prices: €€€€€ Out of budget €€€€ Getting pricey €€€ Not too bad €€ Cheap € Dirt cheap

5

Berlin

is believed to have been founded in 1237. It became the capital of the Kingdom of Prussia in 1701. The city’s economy, industry and population continued to grow after it was named the capital of the newly formed German Empire in 1871.

Adolf Hitler and the Nazi party came to power in 1933. Nazi rule destroyed Berlin’s Jewish community forcing them to emigrated and escape the Nazis. From 1938 many thousands were deported to concentration camps. The Second World War had a devastating effect on the city. Between 1940 and 1945 Berlin was heavily bombed and large parts of the city were left in ruins.

By the end of the war nearly half its population had fled. Hitler committed suicide in his bunker as Soviet troops reached the city in April 1945. After Germany surrendered the country was divided into four sectors, one occupied by each of the Allied powers: France, Great Britain, the United States of America and the Soviet Union.

Berlin was also divided in four, despite it being within Soviet controlled territory.

6

HISTO A BRIEF HISTORY

In May 1948 two separate German states were founded. The Soviet zone became the German Democratic Republic (GDR), known as East Germany, with East Berlin as its capital. The western Allied zones became the Federal Republic of Germany (FRG), known as West Germany. Bonn was named the capital, since West Berlin was geographically an island within the GDR. The founding of the two states increased Cold War tensions.

ORY OF BERLIN

The following month, to protest the introduction of the Deutsche mark in West Berlin, Soviet forces imposed a blockade on all access routes to West Berlin. For nearly a year the Western Allied forces supplied the citizens with food and fuel by plane, known as the Berlin Airlift.

On 17th June 1953, a protest by East German workers is crushed by Soviet military forces and several hundreds of people are killed. In the years following, hundreds of thousands of East Germans flee to the West.

On 13th August 1961, in a response to the huge number of East Germans leaving for the West, the GDR government closed the border between the East and West Germany. Soldiers start to build a wall around West Berlin. Travel restrictions on GDR citizens remained in place.

The late 1980s saw the easing of Cold War tensions and in 1989 Hungary opened its border with Austria, meaning thousands of East Germans were able to travel to the West. In November 1989, the GDR government resigned, following a pro-democracy demonstration in Alexanderplatz attended by a million people. A few days later on the 9th November the border was opened.

Hundreds of thousands of GDR citizens crossed over into West Berlin and people began to pull down the Wall in celebration.

Almost one year later on 3rd October 1990, East and West Germany were formally reunited, a day which is now celebrated every year as German Unity Day. Berlin became the capital once again, although the government didn’t officially complete its move back from Bonn until 2001

7

KEY GERMAN PHRASES Sprechen Sie Englisch?

Do you speak English?

Wie bitte?

Can you repeat what you said?

Wo ist….?

Where is…?

Ich verstehe nicht I do not understand ….die Toilette (the bathroom) ….die Straße (the street) ….der Bahnhof (the train station) Bitte- Please Hallo/Auf Wiedersehen/Tschüss- Hello/ Goodbye Danke- Thank you Langsam, bitte- Slowly please Wie geht’s- How are you?

Entschuldigung- Excuse me Es tut mir leid- I’m sorry Kann ich dein Telefonnummer haben?Can I have your phone number? please Auf geht’s!- Let’s go!

Der Fahrt endet hier- This route ends here (important to know) Fahrscheine, bitte!- Tickets please!

Ausgang/Eingang- Exit/Entrance Ausstieg links/rechts- Exit left/right Alles aussteigen bitte- Everyone exit Zurück bleiben bitte- Stay back please

SURVIVAL

BIKES A hugely popular form of transport in Berlin is cycling. It’s just too easy to use a bike for all your sightseeing needs especially with a ton of rentals around the city.

Stick to the cycle paths, and most importantly watch out for pedestrians! Note to pedestrians: there are marked cycle paths on the road and/or pavement so just keep an eye where you’re walking. However the expert cyclist often won’t slow down for you, so listen out for that bell.

8

ON SUNDAYS...

GUIDE...

Everything is closed. Seriously there is not much open on Sundays. Some Spätkaufs (late night shops) and food stands will be open but do not expect to do any Sunday afternoon shopping. Sundays are for rest and relaxation, so go to a park, go for a bike ride or walk around the beautiful Tiergarten. Germans take this very seriously and there are even rules about being loud on Sunday mornings.

BAHN ETIQUETTE This shouldn’t be a section but unfortunately it has to be. If you are on the tram, U-Bahn, S-Bahn or bus it is no different from back home. There is no need to be loud or obnoxious and if there is a little old lady who gets on the tram, you best be giving up your spot. You can basically do whatever you want when you are riding the public transportation in Berlin, just have your ticket if they ask for it.

THE AMPELMANN EFFECT Ampelmann is the famous little green or red man who tells you when to cross the street. Pedestrians be wary as if you dare cross when Amplemann is red you run the risk of possibly being killed by the crazy motorists in Berlin. You will also be looked on with shame by other locals.

Also, do not cross when it is red when little kids are around as you are setting a bad example for them and their mothers will not be impressed with you as they ‘tsk’ away. Germans are very orderly, so follow the damn rules.

9

DO’s & DONT’s Whether you’re fluent in German or don’t speak a word, follow these do’s and dont’s while you’re out and about to blend in with the Berliners!

DO remember any bottles marked with ‘Pfandflasche’ can be returned to the supermarket for money back!

DONT forget you need to book in advance to visit the Reichstag

If you love techno DONT be disheartened DO have your ticket on you at all times! if/when you don’t get into Berghain – They will make you get off at the next stop there are many incredible clubs in Berlin otherwise.

DONT assume Alexanderplatz is the only DO try Currywurst, a Berlin classic! shopping area – most districts have their fair share of quirky vintage shops!

DO watch out for pickpockets, especially in Kreuzberg *shifty eyes emoji* DONT go out before 12am; it’s probably not worth it and you may as well have DO remember to check the weather—Ber- TOURIST stamped on your forehead lin experiences all four seasons Berliners take cycling seriously so DONT walk in the bicycle lanes!

WIFI Wifi certainly isn’t something Berlin has much of. If you’re here for a while you should look into getting a wifi stick; but use it sparingly because it can only be renewed once a month! If you’re not in Berlin for long, you’re probably good as most hostels provide free wifi. Desperate times call for internet cafes: we recommend St Oberholz at Rosenthaler Platz.

10

Arriving by Plane

TRANSPORT

Berlin has two airports - Tegel (TXL), which is north west of the city centre and Schönefeld (SXF), which is in the south east. Both airports have frequent transport links to the city centre.

Travelling around Berlin

There are four main types of transport in Berlin: S-Bahn, U-Bahn, tram and bus. Except for the S-Bahn, they are all operated by the Berliner Verkehrsgellschaft (BVG).

S-Bahn:

S-Bahn trains run on 15 lines throughout the city, mostly above ground.

They start around 4.30am and stop at 1.30 on weekdays but run for 24 hours at weekends.

The S-Bahn and U-Bahn lines are on the same map and can be identified by their different colours.

The tram lines are on separate map but also have different colours. The screens at the stations and stops show the final destination of the trains and trams which will tell you the direction of travel.

Zones

Berlin is divided into three zones. Most destinations are in zone A, inside the Ringbahn, a circular route with trains running both clockwise and anti-clockwise. Zone B is the outer area of the city and Zone C is the area beyond the city boundaries.

Most destinations will be covered by an AB ticket and you can buy extension tickets for a trip into Zone C.

Types of ticket

Tickets are valid for all modes of transport. Berlin has an honesty policy when it comes to tickets and you’ll never have to go through barriers on platforms or before you get on board. However there are ticket inspectors who may check and you’ll receive a 60€ fine if you don’t have a valid ticket. There are two special tourist tickets, the ‘WelcomeCard’ and the ‘CityTourCard’ which offer unlimited travel for 48 or 72 hours, or 4, 5 or 6 days and give you discount to various attractions in Berlin. Tickets can be bought from machines at stations or on trams and you need to validate them at the machine on the platform or on board the tram or bus.

U-Bahn: The U-Bahn is the underground train

service and its 10 lines run from 4.00 until 1.00 every five minutes on weekdays. At weekends, the lines run every 10 minutes through the night.

Bus: Buses provide transport between the city

centre and the suburbs and also stop at S-Bahn and U-Bahn stations. Buses marked ‘M’ provide service to areas not served by the U-Bahn und S-Bahn and ‘X’ buses are express routes. Many bus routes run 24 hours a day and replace U-Bahn or S-Bahn services at night during the week.

Tram:

There are 22 tram lines which mainly run through the east of the city. As with the buses, trams marked ‘M’ go to places with no direct U-Bahn or S-Bahn links and are the only trams to run 24 hours a day, although less frequently.

TICKET

COST

VALIDITY

single AB ticket

2.70€

valid for two hours in one direction

Short trip (Kurzstrecke) ticketsw

1.70€

valid for up to 3 stops on the U-Bahn or S-Bahn or 6 stops on a bus or tram

AB day tickets

7€

unlimited travel until 3.00 the next morning

weekly ticket

30€

unlimited travel for 7 days

small group day AB ticket

17.30€

allows up to 5 people to travel together

11

WHAT TO DO IN BERLIN TODAY?

PHOTO: POTSDAMER PLATZ, page 32

12

Sankt-Hedwigs-Kathedrale St. Hedwig Cathedrale St Hedwig’s Kathedral is located on Bebelplatz, five minutes walk from Alexanderplatz by the Bibliothek Memorial and Humboldt-University. It’s the first Roman Catholic cathedral built in Berlin after the Reformation, originally constructed between 1747 and 1773 and was repaired and reconstructed after the Second World War. The main church feels very grand with its high domed ceiling and large contemporary artwork behind the altar, while the small chapels on the lower level provide more intimate spaces for prayer and contemplation.

It has a very quiet atmosphere, broken only by free daily short organ concerts and masses. Although very large physically, there are other sights nearby that overshadow the cathedral in terms of fame and as “must-see” attractions. However, the cathedral’s exterior architecture is definitely Instagram-worthy, and the interior is also worth a look if you have ten to fifteen minutes to spare. If churches and church music are more your thing then it is possible to look at their website for times for free organ concerts or arranging tours. Information within the cathedral on its history is all in German, so you would have to either brush up on your language skills or visit their website for English versions.

Niederwallstraße 8–9, 10117, Mitte | hedwigs-kathedrale.de

Varies |

Hausvogteiplatz | €€€€€ | Words: Kait Macdonald

Denkmal für die im Nationalsozialismus verfolgten Homosexuellen

Memorial to Homesexuals persuted under Nazism

Finished in 2008, the Denkmal für die im Nationalsozialismus verfolgten Homosexuellen was built in memory of homosexuals who were killed during the Second World War. Under the Nazi regime, homosexuals were forced into labor camps. They were slowly worked and starved to death for no other reason other than that they were gay. This memorial was built to commemorate them. Located in Tiergarten Park near the Goethe Monument and across the street from the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, its shape is a large stone block.

Its similarity in structure to the dozens of stones that make up the Holocaust Memorial brings a sense of unity between them. They are also right across the street from each other. Someone interested in history could easily walk from one to the other. What makes this memorial unique is that there’s a window to look into.

Inside is a looping video of two young men kissing. The size of this smooth stone is impressive and yet there aren’t any carvings or other artwork to admire. Although it was made for a good reason, it’s a let-down to see that it’s just a large stone. It’s not worth seeing unless one happens to be nearby or is interested in history.

Ebertstraße, 10557, Mitte | Bus 1 Reichstag/Bundestag | €€€€€ | Words: Gabrielle Archibald

13

Topographie des Terrors Topography of Terror

The headquarters of the Gestapo and the SS, the main institutions of Nazi persecution and terror, used to be based here. Most of the original buildings were destroyed during the Second World War and the rest were demolished afterwards. This place has a vast indoor and outdoor exhibit so plan on spending at least three hours here. The exhibition mainly covers Hitler’s ascent to power and narrates the actions of his regime towards the Jews, homosexuals, disabled people as well as the Aryan race. After visiting you will have a better understanding of the Nazi regime, as there is a lot of detailed information and pictures.

Even though this is often referred to as “a must do” while in Berlin, people visiting should be keen on history as the amount of information may be too much for casual visitors. Wearing sunscreen is recommended, as visitors will be out in the sunshine for about an hour while seeing the outside exhibition

Niederkirchnerstraße 8, 10963, Kreuzberg | topographie.de

10.00-20.00 |

Mohrenstraße| €€€€€ | Words: Erica Reyes

DDR Museum Located opposite the Berlin Dom, this museum focuses on the daily life of East Germany rather than the more common topics like the governmental oppression, the Berlin Wall and the Stasi. The way the museum shares the information is unique as they combine all the concepts with interactive activities.

The exhibition will take you back in time as you see the products the East Germans had access to, their clothes and games. The museum recreates the living room of a typical East German apartment and also lets you drive a Trabi (the most common East German car). You will spend your time in the museum opening cabinets, trying on military clothes, writing your name in Russian or creating the perfect new socialist human. Overall this museum is fantastic and achieves its main aim, which is to show you the daily life in the DDR with its problems, government and joys. As it is a very popular museum expect it to be crowded. It’s recommended to buy tickets online, as it’s cheaper.

Karl-Liebknecht-Straße 1, 10178, Mitte | ddr-museum.de |9.50€/6€|

10.00-22.00 |

Alexanderplatz| Words: Erica Reyes

14

Neue Wache

New Guardhouse

Originally built as a guardhouse for a Prussian palace, the Neue Wache has been Germany’s central memorial to victims of war and tyranny since 1993. The building has housed several different memorials since 1931, when it was first used to commemorate victims of the First World War. It is an austere building with a row of Greek columns along the front. Inside is one large room with a sculpture in the centre, Mother with her Dead Son by Käthe Kollwitz, one of Germany’s most famous artists. A circular hole in the ceiling leaves it exposed to the elements.

The memorial received a fair amount of criticism, not least because its rather unspecific aim of trying to include all of Germany’s war dead, the victims of the Holocaust and the victims of the GDR dictatorship means it doesn’t end up feeling like it adequately serves any of them. It’s worth a look if you’re in the area and want to make up your own mind but otherwise there are plenty of other more interesting sights nearby, such as the Berliner Dom and Museum Island.

Unten den Linden 4, 10117, Mitte | | €€€€€ |

10.00-18.00 | Bus 200 Staatsoper | Words: Zoë Charlesworth

Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtniskirche

Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church

Situated on Lietzenburger Straße, just at the intersection of Kurfürstendamm, the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church is hard to miss. The ruined church is a stark contrast to its surroundings and it immediately draws your attention. It is named after the first Kaiser Wilhelm who was in power in Germany in the late 1800s. First built in 1865, this church, like the city of Berlin, has been through a lot. During a bomb raid in the Second World War the church was decimated and left in ruin.

What is left is the 68m tall ruin of the tower called “hollow tooth” by Berliners.

The restoration process was completed in 1963 and it included a sanctuary next to the tower to hold services which are regularly held on Sundays and holidays. The tower is now regarded as a memorial against war and violence. The inside of the tower itself is quite underwhelming; it’s not as big as you think it is when you look at it from the outside. The ceilings are adorned with beautiful artwork and there are various chalices and artifacts from the rubble of the church. There are free guided tours in English three times a day and it is also wheelchair accessible via an alternate entrance.

Breitscheidplatz, 10789, Charlottenburg | gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de | €€€€€ |

Varies |

Kurfüstendamm Words: Ryan Stelter

15

Olympiastadion Olympic Stadium Built for the 1936 Olympic Summer Games in Berlin, the Olympiastadion is an epic combination of visual history and beautiful architecture. Clearly reminiscent of ancient sport facilities, the stadium is very well preserved and even fairly modernised inside with a cheaply priced restaurant to enjoy.

With strong intentions from the Nazi party to use the building for their National Socialism propaganda of building a new and better Germany, the place famously played host to American athlete Jesse Owens.

As the most successful Olympian that year, Jesse Owens is known to have disproved Hitler’s theory of Aryan race supremacy. Also host to the 2006 Football World Cup and continuously used for the German Cup final since 1985, the stadium feels very patriotic and proud, and no doubt the atmosphere during a match would be something worth experiencing! Tour guides are available to give in-depth information on the venue; however, for those who opt out of a tour guide, it is fairly lacking in further information or much sense of direction in the open space. Olympiastadion is reasonably apt for all weather conditions and possibly of interest to the majority, though this comes highly recommended for those with a passion for history. Notably, several school trips seem to pay a visit here. Made for a capacity of 100,000 spectators, the magnificent space is a slightly lengthy ride to the end of the U2 U-Bahn line. Olympiastadion is certainly worth a visit, but perhaps not to be made a top priority. However, combined with a trip down to the stunning views of Grosser Wannsee Lake and to some decent ice-cream shops, it can’t be all bad.

Olympischerplatz 3, 14053, Westend | olympiastadion-berlin.de

Varies |

Olympiastadion |7€/5.50€ | Words: Amie Pearce

16

Stasi Museum Stasi Museum The shady headquarters of the former Stasi, the infamous GDR Ministry for State Security, were located in this very building which today houses Berlin’s Stasi Museum. At one point in time, the Stasi had 180,000 civilian informants spying on their neighbours. Tucked away on Ruschstraße, this impressive museum can be a little tough to find. It is quite far from a lot of the popular tourist destinations in Berlin and a decent walk from the closest U-Bahn station. Inside the museum there are exhibits and artefacts from the former Stasi headquarters, and lots of documents and old photographs from the height of the Cold War. Including diaries of people reporting on what their neighbours are doing. On the second floor, a blast from the past occurs where the old offices and meeting rooms of the Stasi higher ups have been kept. The third floor contains artefacts from the end of the GDR and the Stasi. This museum is worth a visit as it explains a large part of Berlin’s history; the fact that it is fairly cheap for students to visit is a bonus as well.

Magdalenstraße|6€/4.5€| 10.00-18.00| Rusch Straße 103,10365, Lichtenberg| stasimuseum.de

Words: Ryan Stelter

Die Mauer Asisi Panorama The Wall Panorama

To escape the hoards of tourists at Checkpoint Charlie, take a short walk across the street to “Die Mauer” where there is truly a magnificent 18-metre-high panorama to be seen. On Mondays you can pay to see whatever you think it is worth. It is certainly worth the price of admission no matter what day it is. Walking into the 900 square foot panorama is breathtaking. The artist, Yadegar Asisi, does a wonderful job of capturing what it would have looked like to have lived by the wall. You are meant to be standing on a terrace in West Berlin looking over the death strip into the desolate East. In the background you hear the sounds of cars and people talking to help make the experience real. There are also clips of John F. Kennedy as well as other German politicians making quips about the wall. It is a moving experience. One of the best ways to experience what life was like during the time of the Berlin Wall in the 1980s. The panorama is complemented by a photo exhibition with over 100 photos from contemporary witnesses who give their own personal stories with each photo.

Friedrich Straße 205,10117 Kreuzberg| 10.00-18.00| 10€/8€ | asisi.de

Kochstraße | Words: Ryan Stelter

17

Brandenburger Tor

Brandenburg Gate

This was once a gateway into Berlin. During the Cold War, the Brandenburg Gate was a symbol of the stark contrast between the divided East and West. Since the fall of the Berlin Wall, however, the Brandenburg Gate has been a symbol of unity. The sculpture on top is of the Goddess of Victory, which was added to the design in 1793. It’s very busy and crowded. Tourists surround the area, but there are also locals who pedal bicycles through the crowds. Add the traffic on the nearby road to the general chaos and you get a cacophony of people speaking, cars honking, and bodies rushing. Although impressive, there isn’t anything to do there except take a few selfies. There are some places nearby to check out, though. There is a Starbucks in the square that’s good for a quick drink with tables to sit down and rest. The Tiergarten is across the street, which has historical monuments throughout it. Also, within walking distance, is the Holocaust Memorial.

Pariser Platz 1, 10117, Mitte | Bus 1 Reichstag/Bundestag | €€€€€ | Words: Gabrielle Archibald

Siegessäule

Victory Column

Berlin’s Victory Column undoubtedly gives the best panoramic view of the city’s skyline. The gold, winged goddess Victoria stands tall on top of the tower and makes for a dazzling contrast against a blue sky. The column is situated on an intersection of five avenues in the heart of Tiergarten and can be seen from the Brandenburg Gate.

Once inside, there are a series of miniature sculptures to look at and read about, such as London’s Big Ben and the Empire State Building. Though the tower demands an exhausting 285 steps to get to the top, it’s most certainly worth the effort for the rewarding view.

However, those with a fear of heights might want to take a few deep breaths before making their way up. The staircase is narrow and can become cramped on busy days, so hold on tightly to that bannister!

If you are in Tiergarten and like the idea of taking some nice photos, then it’s worth heading over to the Victory Column.

Großer Stern 1, 10557, Mitte | Bus 100 Großer Stern | 3€/2.50€

Varies| Words: Rebecca Gilooly

18

ReichstagGovernment Building Located just a short walk away from the Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag is the home of the German government. The Bundestag is one of the most visited parliaments in the world, with three million people coming to visit every year. The Reichstag has been the home of German democracy since 1999 and visually it is a stunning building. Originally constructed in 1894, the Reichstag has undergone a lot of change. The old exterior has an imposing look, but upon walking inside it is very modern with high ceilings. The tour of the dome on the rooftop terrace is the first thing that should be done when arriving in Berlin, as it gives you a magnificent panorama view of Berlin.

The views from the top are absolutely spectacular, and if possible book a tour in the evening as the setting sun provides opportunities for some beautiful pictures of the Berlin skyline. Yes, you do have to book a tour, but it’s free of charge and so worth it. If you know you’ll be coming to Berlin, it is recommended to book this tour on their website in advance. The audio guide (which is the best audio guide ever by the way) starts as you walk up the ramp and tells you to stop and explains what you are looking at. The audio guide takes you through an aerial view of the city and all its biggest tourist attractions. The construction of the dome stresses openness as you look down you can see the Planery chamber where the members of parliament sit. The idea is to have the elected members of government look up and see those they are working for: the people. This is one of the coolest tours that can be done in Berlin and the fact it’s free is a big bonus.

Platz Der Republik 1, 11011, Mitte |

8.00-00.00 |

Brandenburger Tor| €€€€€ |

bundestag.de Words: Ryan Stelter

19

Gedenkstätte Berliner Berlin Wall Memorial Mauer The Berlin Wall Memorial extends 1.4 km along Bernauer Straße on the former border strip between East and West Berlin. The effect of the Wall was especially dramatic here because the front of the buildings on the East side of the street formed part of the border. The principal part of the memorial is an open air exhibition, incorporating historical remnants of the border, which makes the former division of the city feel tangible. Hundreds of tall metal rods run along where the Wall once stood and markers on the ground show other border features and locations of escape tunnels. It is the main site of commemoration for the victims of the Berlin Wall and the official dedicated monument is a reconstructed section of border fortifications with a guard tower.

There are also two indoor exhibitions which give more information about the political and historical context.

Whether you want to spend a few hours reading all the information or spend 15 minutes walking along the length of the memorial, it’s the best place to get an impression of the size of the Wall and the devastating impact on the city and its people.

Bernauer Straße 111, 13355, Mitte | Nordbahnhof | €€€€€ | Open air: 24 hours; Indoor exhibitions: vary| berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de

Words: Zoë Charlesworth

Das Denkmal zur Erinnerung an die Bücherverbrennung Book Burning Memorial Situated just across from Humboldt University lies the Bibliothek Memorial. Although seemingly insignificant due to the massive construction site just beside it, the memorial is a representation of a deep past. The site at Bebelplatz is the location of the Nazi book burning that occurred in 1933 by the nationalist German Students’ Association. Over 20,000 books were burned at this ceremony. Put in place by Micha Ullman, this memorial of a glass window overlooking empty bookshelves now sits in the middle of the square. Next to the memorial is a plaque, which translates to, “That was only a prelude; where they burn books, they will in the end also burn people.” The fact that this memorial is just one small window in the middle of the square is a profound reminder of how horrific a time this period was. Aside from being located just across from Humboldt University, Bebelplatz square is near the State Opera building, St. Hedwig’s Cathedral and the German History Museum.

Bebelplatz, 10117, Mitte | Bus 200 Staatsoper | €€€€€ | Words: Laura Hendricksen

20

Sowjetisches Ehrenmal Soviet War Memorial Treptow Located within the borders of the vast Treptower Park is the Soviet Memorial. The first thing one sees is a large statue of a soviet soldier holding a German child and a sword while standing on a broken swastika. This statue, designed by Mikhail Gorvits, is there to commemorate Nikolai Masalov, the Sergeant of Guards, who risked his life in the midst of battle fire to save a German child whose mother had disappeared. Lining the courtyard are 16 stone walls to represent the 16 Soviet Republics. One side of the strip is in Russian and the other is in German. The memorial is a cemetery for about 5,000 Red Army soldiers. While walking through it, the feeling is quiet and rather eerie, but it is unmistakably beautiful. At the platform of the statue is a dark room. To this day, individuals can be seen placing their flowers inside of it in remembrance of the fallen.

Puschkinallee, 12435, Alt-Treptow | | €€€€€ |

Treptower Park|

Words: Laura Hendricksen

Denkmal für die ermordeten Juden Europas Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe This memorial serves as a refreshing way to remember the six million Jews murdered during the Second World War. It consists of 2711 rectangular blocks of concrete varying in size laid out in a grid.

The cobbled ground is uneven and rolls like waves. It’s relatively easy to get lost in the maze of blocks, some of which stand as tall as 4.7 metres, while walking through the memorial. The overall effect of this disorientating. The exact reasoning behind the memorial’s design is unknown and this precise number of blocks is not known to have any significance. However, some believe that its maze-like design intended to replicate a fraction of the confusion and panic that the victims of the Holocaust felt.

This memorial is unique in the way that its simplicity means you can attach your own meaning to it. It is not overly depressing or overloaded with information and allows visitors to think without distraction.

Whilst visiting it is important to remember that standing or climbing on the blocks is not allowed.

Cora-Berliner-Straße 1, 10117, Mitte | stiftung-denkmal.de

Brandenburger Tor.| €€€€€ | Words: Rebecca Gilooly

21

Berliner Dom Berlin Cathedral An essential Berlin attraction, the Berliner Dom is the largest Protestant cathedral in the city. Situated on Museum Island next to the Altes Museum, the cathedral has undergone various architectural reincarnations and repairs from its origins in 1747 to its most recent renovations in 2002. The area is full of people but still relaxed: it’s nice to join the crowds of tourists and locals alike in chilling on the grass or under the shady trees while enjoying a clear view of the canal. The inside is very spacious with a quiet atmosphere, and, although busy, at no point feels crammed or packed.

In contrast to its dirty exterior, which was due to the building being badly burnt during the Second World War, its interior is covered in detailed decorations and gleaming mosaics. The cathedral’s ostentatious and grandiose style can be overwhelming so it’s best to take your time wandering around to get the full picture and absorb all the details. If you have the energy, it is highly recommended climbing the 267 steps to the top: the calories burnt and 360° panoramic views, especially on a sunny day, make you forget your tired legs and appreciate the beauty of the view of inner Berlin. Along the way there is a small museum on the cathedral’s history, where you can pause to catch your breath. In the cathedral’s crypt there are a number of royal sarcophagi. However, the plain surroundings and the fact that many are ceremonial means that it is not as interesting as the main church or the dome.

If you want to replenish your energy after climbing all those steps the cathedral has its own café in the basement as you come out of the crypt. Alternatively, there is a food court with less expensive cafés and familiar chains just around the cathedral heading towards Alexanderplatz.

Am Lustgarden, 10178, Mitte | Mon–Sat 9.00–19.00, Sun 12.00–19.00 | Hackescher Markt | 7€/5€ | berlinerdom.de Words:Kait Macdonald

22

Checkpoint Charlie Checkpoint Charlie marks the spot as the most famous crossing point between East and West Berlin during the Cold War. It sits as the focal point of a bustling crossroads filled with Trabant hire cars, tourists and many a souvenir shop. Known as a symbol for the Cold War, the landmark is basically a small checkpoint shed where people could legally cross the Berlin Wall.

It is certainly worth a peek if you’re in the area, but it is recommended to combine it with one of the surrounding museums. The Berlin Wall Museum - Museum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie, Exhibition Black Box Cold War or The Wall in Berlin 360 Panorama are all on the square to get some further background information, as little is featured at the site. Also in the area, is a section of the wall still left standing. .

The checkpoint was given the name Charlie simply because there were already two military checkpoints named Alpha and Bravo.

The large photograph of a soldier featured at the checkpoint is unfortunately not Charlie and was selected completely at random.

A definite tourist favourite, for those who wish to do so, is to have your photograph taken with the soldiers in costume who man the checkpoint.

Friedrichstraße 43-45, 10117, Kreuzberg | | €€€€€ |

Kochstraße

Words:Amie Pearce

11AM–7PM

Museum der Dinge Museum of Things

The words that usually come to mind when one thinks of a museum are: sophisticated, informative, sometimes even dull. Not here. This museum houses items that are rarely seen in historical museums.

From children’s toys to teapots and seashells to chairs, everyday items dating from the early 20th century to present day are displayed in cabinets. The mundanity is actually fascinating and amusing. The bafflement one feels from seeing a filing cabinet first thing never fully fades, and it only increases once the Levi’s jeans and H&M shirt are found. In case one actually wants a reason as to why there are certain objects here, there are audio clips and some plaques at the end of each row for more information. Although amusing, this museum is best suited for parents with kids or grandparents reliving the glory days.

Thurs.-Mon. 12.00-19.00 | Oranienstraße 25, 10999, Kreuzberg | Bus M29/140 Adalbertstraße/Orienstraße|6€/4€ | museumderdinge.org Words: Gabrielle Archibald

23

Gedenkstätte Berlin-HohenschönBerlin-Hohenschönhausen Memorial hausen History-lovers will appreciate a tour of the sad but fascinating Stasi prison. Though perhaps not an activity to do if you’re looking for a fun day out, a tour of the prison gives visitors a chilling but accurate representation of how life for the prisoners would have been and the acts of brutality carried out there.

Many of the tour guides have served time at the prison themselves and they give you an eyewitness account of their time there as they guide you through the dank hallways and show you the chalky, claustrophobic cells. Almost everything in the prison is in the same state as it was when it was shut down in 1990 following the fall of the Berlin wall and gives a good idea of the conditions in which prisoners lived. Bringing a bottle of water is recommended as the humidity of the cells can become uncomfortable, especially in the summer months.

Genslerstraße 66, 13055, Lichtenberg | 9.00–18.00; see website for tour schedules en.stiftung-hsh.de M5 Freienwalder Straße | 6€/4€ |

Words: Rebecca Gilooly

Tränenpalast – GrenzErfahrungen

Palace of Tears: Border Experiences Everyday Life in Divided German

The Tränenpalast is the departure hall of the former East-West border crossing at Friedrichstraße station.

The name means Palace of Tears, so-called by Berliners because it was there that East Germans said goodbye to relatives and friends travelling back to the West, not knowing when they might see them again.

The departure hall was built in 1962 and is a modern construction, made of steel and glass. After the fall of the Wall in 1989 it was used as a nightclub and is now home to a permanent exhibition on the experiences at the checkpoint and the border’s effect on the everyday lives of the Germans. The exhibition is interactive and engaging with many original artefacts and photos, including an original checkpoint booth.

The building is bright and airy, especially on a sunny day, which seems particularly incongruous when learning about the traumatic scenes which took place there. Located on the Reichstagsufer, next to the government district and the buildings which are central to the functioning of today’s reunified Germany, the exhibition is a stark reminder of how different things used to be.

Reichstagufer 17, 10117, Mitte | Friedrichstraße | €€€€€ |

Tues. - Fri. 9.00 - 19.00 Sat. - Sun. 10.00 - 18.00 | hdg.de/berlin/traenenpalast Words: Zoë Charlesworth

24

Gedenkstätte Deutscher German Resistance Memorial Center Widerstand The Gedenkstätte Deutscher Widerstand is a real treasure for those keen on history, as a wide range of media and material has recently been made into a permanent exhibition and is presented in the rooms where the attempted coup of July 20th 1944 took place. With free entry to both the permanent and the special exhibition, the focus of this museum on a more untold piece of history definitely makes it worth the visit. The Gedenkstätte Deutscher Widerstand is a real treasure for those keen on history, as a wide range of media and material has recently been made into a permanent exhibition and is presented in the rooms where the attempted coup of July 20th 1944 took place.

With free entry to both the permanent and the special exhibition, the focus of this museum on a more untold piece of history definitely makes it worth the visit.

While other museums on the Second World War don’t have the time or space to talk about the resistance to Hitler’s dictatorship from 1933-1945 due to the excess of information on Nazi brutality, little is ever really mentioned. However, this aptly sized space provides a spectrum of fighters against the National Socialist party ranging from those who stood down from their military posts once the party came to power to those who directly attempted to assassinate Hitler. Do take note that, although the museum shows the incredible strength and determination of the human spirit through some 40 men and women’s individual stories, the facts are as upsetting as they are extraordinary. It is easily accessible on the 200 bus, which covers major parts of the city, but not so well sign-posted once you’re inside the building. Just follow the stairs up until you reach the permanent exhibition.

Stauggenbergstraße 13-14, 10785, Mitte | M29 Bus Gedenkstätte Deutscher Widerstand |

9:00 – 18:00 | gdw-berlin.de

Words: Amie Pearce

25

Alliierten MuseumAllied Museum Consisting of five parts, this is the place to go for a quick look at German history after the Second World War. The first things one notices is the replica of a plane sitting between the two buildings, which are the Outpost Theater and the Nicholson Memorial Library sections of the museum. Take a look inside the Outpost Theater. Inside there are letters, military outfits, medals, and even a propeller of a Douglas C54 plane. Off to the side there’s a small room with only a television playing what was the German news during the Allied occupation of West Berlin. Cross the Open-Air Exhibition to check out more detailed information on the military in Berlin, as well as see the temporary exhibition. It’s recommended to start at the Outpost Theater and make your way to the Friedrich Wilhelm von Steuben Monument for maximum comprehension of historical events.

Clayallee 135, 14195, Dahlem | Tues.-Sun. 10.00-18.00 | Bus 115 Düppel-Süd | | €€€€€ | alliiertenmuseum.de Words: Gabrielle Archibald

Spy Museum Located in front of the Mall of Berlin, this museum follows the history of spies in action, especially in Berlin, as it was the capital of spies during the Second World War and the Cold War. If you are into movies like James Bond, the Bourne series or Inspector Gadget, this place will be your paradise.

The entire exhibition is presented in a modern way. It uses technology and the visitor gets to choose which videos and information to see. The collection of gadgets the museum has is impressive and they are the main attraction. They have cameras, different types of footwear and hearing devices. The admission to this museum is quite expensive so make sure that you are into intelligence agencies and spy technology as otherwise the entrance fee is not worth paying.

A highlight of the visit is attempting to beat the laser beam security system , so forget everything and for a moment act as if you are an agent!

Leipziger Platz 9, 10117, Mitte | spymuseumberlin.com 26

10.00-20.00|

Postdamer Platz |18€ /14€ | Words: Erica Reyes

Alte Nationalgalerie

Old National Gallery

If you have a keen eye for art and culture, the Altes Nationalgalerie is your best pick out of the many to choose from on Museum Island, which is Berlin’s well-established museum quarter. Located in a building with beautiful neoclassical architecture and green garden grounds, the museum is often a film or photography site. Go here to get your fix of impressionist, early modernist and romantic masterpieces in the permanent exhibition, featuring prominent German artists such as Adolph Menzel and Max Liebermann. Don’t forget to explore their temporary exhibitions, usually featuring captivatingly curated pieces

by German and other artists, such as August Kopisch. The temporary exhibitions often pivot around a central theme and explore an artist’s life and story—you won’t be leaving uninspired. Visit the other museums next-door, such as the Alte Museum and Neue Museum, a UNESCO World Heritage site, or walk a few steps and you’ll find the glorious Berliner Dom.

Bodestraße 1-3, 10178, Mitte | smb.museum 18€/9€ |

Tues.-Sun. 10.00-18.00 |

Hackescher Markt | Words: Milan Cater

Berlinische Galerie

Contemporary Art Gallery

The Berlinische Galerie of contemporary art is located close to the Jewish Museum in Kreuzberg, and is one of Berlin’s best contemporary art galleries to visit. The spacious venue hosts a permanent exhibition upstairs which eloquently takes you through a rather dimly lit labyrinth of the years of German modern art; downstairs usually hosts temporary exhibitions which are often interactive and always very unique.

Summer 2016 saw the philosophical work of Erwin Worm displayed across the main floor, including several interactive pieces of art that turned the spectators into the art themselves, and a life-size house depicting the narrow-mindedness of the middle class. Exit through the gift shop and get yourself one of the gallery’s posters used to advertise their exhibitions, often just as cool as what’s in the gallery itself.

Alte Jakobstraße 124-128, 10969, Kreuzberg | Hackescher Markt | 18€/9€ | smb.museum

Tues.-Sun. 10.00-18.00 | Words: Milan Cater

27

König Galerie Contemporary Art Gallery This small and well-reputed contemporary art gallery in Kreuzberg showcases rotating exhibitions featuring Berlin-born and international artists in a space which will leave a strong impression on its visitors. The gallery is housed in the St Agnes Church built in 1967; the architecture of St Agnes Church is a masterpiece in itself, and a prime example of Brutalist German architecture, recently reeling in recognition and awards such as the Berlin Architecture prize in 2015 chaired by the director of the Tate Modern, London.

The gallery consists of two levels with high ceilings and open spaces creating a reflective ambiance to ponder works of contemporary art and photography such as that of Jeremy Shaw and Jorinde Voigt exhibited in the summer months of June and July 2016. This gallery is one of the many buildings in Berlin that have been repurposed and reinvented, part of what creates the creatively nurturing atmosphere Berlin is so famous for. Easily museum hop to the Berlinische Galerie down the road or the Jüdisches Museum and make a day of nurturing the mind.

Alexandrinenstraße 118, 10969, Kreuzberg | Moritzplatz | €€€€€ |

Tues.-Sun. 11.00–18.00 Words: Milan Cater

East Side Gallery Stretching 1.3 km along the River Spree, the East Side Gallery is the longest segment of the Berlin Wall still standing, and by far the most colourful. While most of the Wall was dismantled shortly after November 1989, this section became the world’s largest open air mural collection in 1990 when over 100 international artists painted its east side. Featuring a wide variety of artistic styles, the murals are a mix of political statements, surreal images and representations of the euphoric atmosphere of 1989-1990. The most iconic paintings, like the kiss between Erich Honecker and Leonid Brezhnev by Vrubel Dimitrji and the Trabi breaking through the wall by Birgit Kinder, often have crowds of people waiting to take photos.

Whether your interests lie in art or history, the East Side Gallery is worth visiting and if you go in the early morning or late evening there’ll be fewer tourists. Nearby is the RAW Gelände, a creative area of bars and clubs near Warschauer Straße, as well as the Oberbaumbrücke, a grand red brick bridge with turreted towers leading across the Spree to Kreuzberg.

Mühlenstraße, 10243, Friedrichshain | eastsidegallery-berlin.de 28

Warschauer Straße |€€€€€ | Words: Zoë Charlesworth

Jüdisches Museum

WORDS: ERICA REYES & MILAN CATER

FEATURE: JEWISH HISTORY, ART & CULTURE

This museum is dedicated to the Jewish community and showcases the vital role Jews have played in the history of Berlin and in the modern world. This museum is a centre for learning and both showcases art while being a work of art in itself. Conceptualised and created by architect Daniel Liebeskind, the architectural composition of the museum is quite interesting as the main figure is a zigzag. The permanent exhibition is a careful topopgraphy of Jewish culture. Inside the building’s basement you will find three corridors that are called the “Axes”. The Holocaust Tower is an impressive representation of isolation as it is a cold, dark, concrete space with only one ray of natural light entering near the top. The Jewish museum offers the opportunity to better understand Jewish history and culture as it explains their diet, education, origin and traditions like the Bar Mitzvah.

One part of the exhibition focuses on heartfelt stories of Jewish people during the Second World War. Letters, photos and personal objects accompany the stories to make them feel closer to the heart.

Many interactive displays draw in visitors and make the experience very personable and impactful. Audio guides are available, although it depends on the number of visitors as they sometimes run out.

The estimated time needed to cover the permanent exhibition in the museum is between two to three hours.

Previous exhibitions included GEHORSAM: OBEDIENCE, an exhibition in 2015 exploring the similarities and differences in the approach to religious obedience by people of Christian, Islamic and Jewish faith. More recent exhibtions in 2016 are of over 200 works by Boris Lorie, a Jewish holocaust survivor of more than one concentration camp, who emigrated to New York and expressed his thoughts on American culture through vivid art and collages often featuring pin-ups and exploring female objectification.

The temporary exhibition space in the Jewish Museum is just as inspiring and worth visiting, as it appeals to a contemporary and more artistic rather than historical representation of Jewish culture.

It often features comptemporary work by Jewish artists, or explores issues Jewish culture faces today.

Lindenstraße 9-14, 10969, Kreuzberg Bus 248 Jüdisches Museum jmberlin.de 10.00-20.00

8€/3€

29

THE STREETS OF BERLIN

PHOTO: R.A.W., page 36

30

Ku’damm Situated in West Berlin, Kurfüstendamm, more commonly known as Ku’damm, is a popular shopping strip in the city. This part of Berlin definitely feels different, with its sleek, modern buildings. There are many places to get your shopping fix such as H&M, Forever 21, Adidas and various other clothing stores.

If you are looking for the perfect Berlin souvenir to bring home, this would be the place to get it. There are plenty of places to eat as well, with big chains like Starbucks and McDonalds, as well as some local currywurst and Italian restaurants. The Europa Centre, which is a big shopping mall can also be found on Ku’damm where there is even more shopping to be had, although it is not as nice as you might expect it to be. The Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial church is close by, located at the corner of Lietzenburger Straße and Kurfürstendamm. Escaping to the west has never been easier thanks to the number of U-Bahn stations within walking distance.

Kurfürstendamm,10719, Charlottenburg | kurfurstendamm.de

Kürfurstendamm |€€€€€ | Words: Ryan Stelter

Alexanderplatz If you are lost in Berlin and have absolutely no idea where you are, just look up and you will be able to see the TV Tower which will guide you directly to Alexanderplatz. Alexanderplatz is one of the most important squares in Berlin. It is generally crowded with wandering tourists, street performers and local people going about their daily routines. The importance of this square resides in the fact that it is a transportation hub as the S-Bahn and U-Bahn lines run from here. Apart from being a great place for transportation, you can find lots of shops like Primark, Decathlon and Alexa (the largest shopping mall in Berlin).

If you are looking for some entertainment, there’s a cinema and bowling alley. All around Alexanderplatz you can find coffee shops, fast food stands and restaurants, however you can find places nearby that will have a nicer view and not only the tram lines, trash or people passing by. It is just a short walk to Museum Island from here. Don’t forget to visit the Weltzeithuhr (world time clock), which shows the time in different parts of the world and street musicians can usually be found nearby.

Alexanderplatz, 10178, Mitte |

Alexanderplatz |€€€€€ | Words: Erica Reyes

31

Potsdamer Platz Formerly the area of 1920s buzzing activity and then a desolate wasteland during the Cold War, there is some interesting history about how this place was reinvented. It wasn’t until after 1989 that international investors rebuilt it. There was controversy and a lot of debate over what architectural style of buildings would eventually tower over the people. It was here that Berlin began tackling how to reunite the people. Transportation systems, previously separate, had to now come together. Several investors around the globe wanted to have a part of rebuilding such an important city.

Nowadays, locals can be seen heading to work at their corporate offices. Its towering modern buildings create a contemporary atmosphere. This is clearly a more high-end side of Berlin, as several of the buildings are businesses. For the traveler, there is a mall, a theater, and art exhibitions at the Daimler Atrium.

There are also a few cafes and shops. It’s also here where Panorama Point is located, which is a good place to take the perfect picture.

Potsdamer Platz,10785, Mitte | potsdamerplatz.de

Postdamer Platz |€€€€€ | Words: Gabrielle Archibald

Unter den Linden Unter den Linden stretches approximately 1.5 km from Brandenburg Gate to Schlossbrücke Bridge.

The street’s location at the heart of old Berlin means that it’s quick and easy to get to if you fancy a detour. The street is littered with cafés and restaurants, so you’ll never be far from a refreshing drink or a schnitzel. Though it might not exactly be a main tourist attraction, if you’re interested in Germany’s military history then you might want to head over to the Neue Wache memorial (New Guardhouse) and the Zeughaus, the 17th century building which now houses the Museum of German History. Fans of George Clooney and Nicole Kidman may also want to pay a visit to Madame Tussauds which can be found on the western end of the boulevard. Unfortunately, Unter den Linden is currently undergoing a lot of construction which might obstruct any photos you take, though it’s worth trying to get a good view of the Berliner Dom.

Unter den Linden, 10117, Mitte |

Brandenburger Tor |€€€€€ | Words: Rebecca Gilooly

32

Karl Marx Allee Built as a showcase of socialist power in the 1950s, Karl Marx Allee is a 90 m wide, 2 km long street leading from Frankfurter Tor to Strausberger Platz in the centre of former East Berlin. Without knowing its history Karl Marx Allee is not immediately noteworthy, though there are some interesting sights along what was once the most famous street in the GDR. Between Alexanderplatz and Strausberger Platz is Kino International, a listed cinema with a large glass dome. Opposite is Café Moscow, another listed building with a life size model of Sputnik over the entrance. Once one of the most well-known restaurants in the GDR, it is now an events centre. The street is lined with restaurants, cafés and shops and of particular note is Café Sibylle, one of the first cafes on the street over 50 years ago. Today it also has an exhibition on the history of the street. Unless you are specifically interested in socialist architecture, you’re not likely to plan a dedicated trip to the Allee. However, its proximity to Alexanderplatz means you might end up passing through, in which case it’s worth taking a moment to admire the classic socialist apartment blocks and imagine the military parades of the GDR.

Karl Marx Allee, 10178 | Mitte |

Strausberger Platz | €€€€€ |

Words: Zoë Charlesworth

Nikolaiviertel Nikolaiviertel is Berlin’s oldest quarter and residential area, dating to the 13th century, and is only five minutes walk from Alexanderplatz. Like most of Berlin, it was severely damaged during the Second World War and was reconstructed in 1987 as part of the city’s 750th anniversary celebrations. The result is a weirdly wonderful mixture of different architectural styles and imitations: for example, the medieval church and streets are juxtaposed with neo-classical decorations and stucco exteriors. Nikolaiviertel is home to many artsy shops and boutiques selling handmade goods produced by local artisans and designers, but remains unpretentious and free of hipsters.

Many of these shops also sell the usual mass-produced “I <3 Berlin” souvenirs found throughout the city – only in bohemian Nikolaiviertel does this not seem out of place. There are also museums and lots of restaurants and cafes selling traditional German food; the ones by the river provide a great setting for chilling, drink in hand, on a sunny day.

However, because the area is quite touristy the food and drink are more expensive than most of Berlin. Regardless, the area makes a refreshing change from the bustling modernity of the rest of the city and is the place to go if you’re looking for unique gifts and mementos of your time here.

Nikolaiviertelplatz, 10178, Mitte | Bus 248 Nikolaiviertel |€€€€€ | Words: Kait Macdonald 33

100 &200 Bus Want a tour of Berlin but don’t want to pay exorbitant fees for a day-pass on the tourist buses? The 100 and 200 buses do parts of the same route as the tourist buses, but for a fraction of the price. Used by locals and tourists alike to get around they go around the main tourist destinations and central Berlin attractions, such as Museum Island and Alexanderplatz.

Like the tourist buses, the 100 and 200 run very frequently – between five and fifteen minutes usually – and so it is very easy to “hop on and off” at the various sites. The buses do not have the same route: the 200 goes further east visiting sights such as Potsdamer Platz and the Philharmonie music hall, while the 100 goes past major sights such as the Victory Column and the Reichstag. Both buses stop at Berlin Central Bus Station, which is near the Zoo and the shopping district at Ku’damm; their exact routes can be found on the website.

However, the cheaper price does mean there are fewer features: for example, unlike the tourist buses, the 100 and 200 do not have multilingual commentaries identifying the different sights or their histories. Neither is it possible to do a round trip on a Single ticket – but you can still buy many Singles for the price of an all-day pass for the tourist buses.

To see the most sights and make the most of your journey, it is recommended getting Bus 200 at Alexanderplatz to the Zoo, and then switching to Bus 100 and doing the full line from there. Don’t bother going on Bus 200 past Friedrichshain as there is nothing of interest there. For a clearer view of the sites double-deckers are definitely worth waiting for.

Hardenbergplatz 11, 10623 | Mitte | Bus 100, 200 Bahnof Zoologischer Garten | € Varies

34

Words: Kait Macdonald

Gendarmenmarkt Gendarmenmarkt is a large square in the centre of Berlin, famous for its three grand buildings and its Christmas market. Despite the many people passing through, it has a serene atmosphere thanks to the wide open space and the elegant architecture. At either side of the square are two churches with identical domed towers, the Deutscher Dom and the Französischer Dom, built in the 1700s. Between the two churches is the Konzerthaus, built in 1821 as a theatre. All three original buildings were reconstructed after being destroyed or severely damaged during the Second World War. The Französcher Dom now houses the Hugenot Museum, telling the story of French religious refugees in 1685 and a viewing platform at the top offering panoramic views of the city centre. In the Deutscher Dom there is a free exhibition on the development of German parliamentary democracy.

English audio guides are available but the exhibition text is in German. Unless you have a particular interest in the two museums, the churches themselves probably don’t justify a visit, however the square is well worth wandering through, especially considering its central location and proximity to other sites such as Museum Island and Brandenburger Tor.

Gendarmenmarkt, 10117 | Mitte | gendarmenmarkt.de

Hausvogteiplatz | €€€€€ | Words: Zoë Charlesworth

35

R.A.W. Gelände

WORDS: MILAN CATER

FEATURE: STREET ART, FOOD, MUSIC HUB

R.A.W. is a sociocultural experiment that embodies modern day Berlin. Since the wall came down in 1989 an eclectic assortment of artists and creatives flocked to Berlin from all over the world and began to turn the city anew: Berlin is filled with power plants turned techno temples, abandoned airports that became sports parks, churches that became art galleries and uninhabitable apartments that became manmade beaches.

R.A.W. is just that; previously a train station consisting of a wide collection of derelict graffiti-covered buildings, bunkers and warehouses, littering a street just off the popular Revaler Straße in Friedrichshain whic have been put to good use by the creatives of Berlin. Street food, fleamarkets,clubs, beach bars, bouldering centres, and best of all a lot of amazing graffiti by taggers and well known artists alike can be found at R.A.W. What you won’t find are many Berliners. Rather than a local hangout, R.A.W. is a place where anyone and everyone fits in, a countercultural space for the travellers of the world.

Food Mama Burrito & Sons is a quirky burrito food truck serving up hefty portions of classic tortilla burritos with black beans, a spicy chilli, cheese and veg with many twists you can add. There are options for the meat lovers as well as vegan options, in a small and large size (although the small isn´t very small!) that will definitely leave you satisfied! Other well-established food stalls in RAW include Holi Indian Street Food, Emmapea Vegan Street Food (a place with ample outdoor seating space) and What A Wurst for a good old currywurst after a few hours of dancing.

Sport For those who like to keep on their toes, head over to Der Kegel, a partially outdoor bouldering centre with a café, or to Skatehalle Berlin, a very large indoor skateboarding hall. If sport isn’t your thing, have a look around these building anyway just to admire the amazing graffiti adorning their walls.

36

Day Chilling Although R.A.W. has a lot more nightlife venues than anything else, a few popular and atmospheric daytime beirgartens are open during the summers such as Urban Spree. Urban Spree creates a relaxed atmosphere with its beach chairs and wooden outdoor seating biergarten, surrounded by jumbles of artistic sculptures and giant blue mushrooms for shade. During the summers, Urban Spree frequently hosts live music during the day, complete with food stalls and pop-up tattoo shops for a very summer festival vibe. On a particularly hot day, Haubentaucher beach bar provides sweet relief with a pool complete with diving board and poolside lounging chairs, and large screens showing football or playing relaxing slow paced techno music.

Other Stuff R.A.W. is filled with dozens of places, so if you have the time don’t limit yourself to exploring it for just one day or night. Other interesting things to do in this hub include watching a film at the open air cinema (freiluftkino) or buying some second hand furniture at the Flohmarkt am RAW every Saturday and Sunday.

Nightlife R.A.W. is the place to go if you’re looking to dance to good techno music all night long without the long lines or pricey entry fees of mega clubs like Berghain or Tresor. The White Rabbit is a small club often putting on silent disco nights, indoor and outdoor if the weather allows. Frequented by interesting characters, go there to dance and people watch but NOT to buy drinks, as their bar menu is on the pricier side.

For cheap cocktails, really good techno and a place to dance well into working hours, go to Cräck Bellmer. While many of Berlin’s clubs are reknowned for opening on Friday and closing Monday afternoon, Montag auf Cräck is one of the best and only nights out to be had on a Monday night every week if you’re looking to continue the party. A series of delicious cocktails starting at just 5.00, quality resident DJs and a crowd that is truly there to dance all night creates an electric atmosphere for such a small venue.

Take a short break from techno and head to Badehaus Szimpla: connected to the well known Szimpla Kert ruin bar in Budapest, this venue often hosts live music of all genres from R&B to drum and base, as well as frequently hosting open mic nights. Regular performers such as The Swag Jam every Tuesday reel in the crowds, keeping them there until early hours of the morning.

99 Revaler Straße Warschauer Straße raw-tempel.de

€€€€€ 37

MARKETS SHOPS | FOOD

PHOTO:Flohmarkt Mauerpark, page 39

38

Türkenmarkt Turkish Market Every Tuesday and Friday a Turkish Market opens in the Neukölln area of Berlin. There are about a hundred stalls selling all things Turkish - great traditional food and ingredients to take home, as well as a colourful array of fabrics and clothing. Everything comes at a fair price. The crowds attending are a mix of locals and tourists. There is also a freaky street magician who keeps his audience in a trance - some of whom are getting into the spirit of things by smoking hashish and shisha, which gives an authentic aroma to proceedings.

There are reportedly three million Turkish people in Germany, the highest population outside of Turkey itself, so it’s no surprise that they have a huge presence in this country’s most cosmopolitan city. Neukölln - dubbed ‘little Istanbul’ - is right at the heart of it. On a sunny afternoon, its canal-side location is worth a trip, although arguably just visiting this area at any time will do if it’s some Turkish produce you’re after.

Tuesdays & Fridays 11.00-18.30 Maybuchufer, 10999| Neukölln Tuerkenmarkt.de Schönleinstraße | €€€€€ |

Words: William Barber

Flohmarkt im Mauerpark Mauerpark Flea Market

You’ll soon figure out that Berlin isn’t a city short of markets or decent vintage shops. So, whether you’re here for a while and want to see the best or you only have the time to visit one, make that one Mauerpark Flea Market. Remember that childhood toy you lost and thought you’d never see again? Well, there’s a good chance it’s here. From Simon and Garfunkel vinyl’s to rusty rollerblades and floral door knobs to vintage typewriters, there’s really no end to the collections. A perfect way to engage in some Berlin culture every Sunday, this market brings together locals winding down their weekend and tourists making the most of the city’s free activities. An array of food stalls as well as musical entertainment within the open space all add to the cheap and cheerful vibe. Worth a visit on a sunny day and still doable if not, but perhaps combine it with some nearby extras, such as Cafe Anna Blume. This is just a few tram stops away. Also be sure to check out the Bear Pit Karaoke, which is also in Mauer Park, from 3pm onwards for a good lugh!

Bernauer Straße 13-24, 10785, Prenzlauer Berg | M8/M10 Tram Wolliner Straße | €€€€€ |

9:00 – 18:00 | Words: Amie Pearce

39

Markthalle Neun

Street Food Thursdays

Every Thursday, there is a street food market about ten minutes’ walk away from Berlin’s Gorlitzer Park.

It offers up a selection of food and drink from across the world with its patrons seated on tables reminiscent of a beer hall.

German food is under-represented, with people preferring to serve up Asian, Caribbean and South American food.

It’s best to get there early since by six it is full and all the seats are taken. There is enough going on to keep you entertained and there are loads of independently made beers and wines to choose from. As is often the case with a food market, everyone is in high spirits. It’s always a good thing to buy food from people that believe in their product, the big shame being that you cannot try all of it.

Thursdays 17.00-22.00 | Eisenbahnstraße 42-43, 10997 | Kreuzberg | Words: William Barber Bus 165 Eisenbahnstraße | €€€€€ | markthalleneun.de

Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap Street Food

Döner kebab is the most commonly found fast-food in Berlin, which is the place with the largest Turkish population outside of Turkey itself. Mustafa’s kebap is arguably the most famous and popular kebab stand in the city. It’s a tiny booth manned by two or three staff - a well-oiled, people-pleasing machine.

The mind boggles at the number of kebabs these guys have assembled over the years. High popularity has led to high demand. If you have somewhere else to be after lunch, come here another time as queues of up to an hour are not uncommon. Bring good company and a cold beer and the time will pass soon enough.

Their döner consists of crispy chicken, roasted vegetables, goat cheese and a splash of fresh lemon juice, all served in toasted bread and covered in their own homemade garlic and hot sauces. This is best when accompanied by the salty yoghurt drink ayran. This kebab certainly hits the spot even if it is a messy affair getting through it. The vast majority of people who eat here are tourists. While it may be the most popular, it is not necessarily the best kebab in Berlin. Nevertheless, it is worth a visit if you have time. It is also has really good value - under five euros for food and a drink.

Mehringdamm 32, 10961, Kreuzberg | mustafas.de 40

10.30-14.00 |

Mehringdamm | €€€€€ | Words: William Barber

Kleidermarkt Vintage Vintage Shops Blend in with the locals and shop where the Berliners do in the many vintage and secondhand shops across the city. Vintage shopping is incredibly popular and diverse in Berlin, from pop-ups at weekend flea markets such as the Mauerpark Fleamarket to vintage en masse in Humana, an eco-friendly chain with several locations in every neighbourhood. If you’re an experienced shopper with a creative eye, Colours Kleidermarkt offers a unique shopping experience with pricing per kilo of clothes. Step into a scene from Pretty in Pink as you dig through patterns and fabrics to the beat of 80s classics by Otis Redding on loop. For the easily overwhelmed, smaller curated vintage shops are scattered throughout Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg neighbourhoods. One such place is Repeater, where you’ll find more treasure than trash with selected and upcycled styles towards the pricier side of the vintage market.

Bergmannstraße 102, 10961, Kreuzberg | Gneisenaustraße | €€€€€ |

11.00–19.00 Words: Milan Cater

The Ampelmann Souvenirs Shop The Ampelmann is a symbol of Berlin culture; it brings back memories of the former divided Germany. The quirky little man with a hat is a symbol of life in former East Germany and used to be on every traffic light in the GDR. It’s always difficult to find souvenirs that are not the same old merchandise found in all the tourist shops but the figure of the Ampelmann gives you the twist needed from the usual mass produced souvenirs. The shop has a good range of items on offer and is fairly priced for souvenirs. You can find the classic t-shirts, pens and postcards but also find more unusual products like umbrellas, towels, notebooks and even gummi sweets. There are several shops located near tourist spots, one in Alexanderplatz and one near Brandenburg Gate.

Unter den Linden 35, 10117, Mitte| ampelmann.de

9.30-22.00|

Französische Straße|€€€€€ Words: Erica Reyes

41

Another Country Bookshop If you’re a bookworm who appreciates organised chaos and that old book smell, Another Country is the shop for you. Located in Kreuzberg, the bookshop sells second hand English books, but it can be also used as a library. You pay for the book and if you want to return it, you’ll get back what you paid, minus a 1.50€ fee.

Although the books are meticulously sorted by genre and author, it feels as if you’re browsing someone’s personal library rather than a bookshop. There are two rooms with wall to ceiling shelves which feature framed pictures, vases and other ornaments as well as books. There’s a mix of literary and genre fiction, non-fiction, reference and a few interesting categories of the owner’s choosing, such as “evil books” which includes Justin Bieber’s autobiography. The shop also hosts reading groups and film nights and is a hub of activity for British expats. If you enjoy poking round quirky shops then Another Country merits a visit, particularly if you are exploring Kreuzberg or are staying in Berlin for a longer time and fancy borrowing some books.

Riemannstraße 7, 10961, Kreuzberg | varies Gneisenaustraße | €€€€€ | anothercountry.de

Words: Zoë Charlesworth

Shakespeare & Sons Cafe Bookshop Perfect for the bookworm and for the studious worker, this bookstore has more to it than just reading material.

Look to the right and there’s a bagel shop with sandwiches, cakes, bagels, and sodas to fill up on when you’re on the go. Eat outside in the shade before heading over to browse the selection of English-language books.

Up the stairs are tables and comfortable lounge chairs. Read the day away or make use of the free wifi on your laptop. There’s some quiet chattering from the adults in this space, but with the gentle music playing overhead, it’s nothing more than background noise.

At the far end of this small shop is another room, but beware: this room is not for those who are prone to wifi-withdrawal. Computers are not allowed in this room. A sign above the door reads, “For face-to-face human interaction.” It was of no surprise, then, that the room was empty. However, it’s quieter in there and a great place to relax amongst the French-language books.

Warschauerstraße 74, 10243, Friedrichshain | Frankfurter Tor | €€€€€ | shakesbooks.de 42

9.00–20.00 Words: Gabrielle Archibald

Café am Neuen See Cafe Tucked away inside the beautiful Tiergarten, Café am Neuen See is certainly the spot to grab a reasonably priced beer and relax after a full day of sight-seeing. It is located in a prime spot and is in walking distance from most of Berlin’s biggest attractions. With its picnic style seating and relaxed atmosphere this place appeals to young and old, tourists and locals alike. If you want to try your hand at rowing a boat on the Neuer See where you can purchase a key and take in the serenity of the lake. The beautiful view of the lake makes one forget that they are in the large metropolitan of Berlin. If you happen to be there during a football match, it is a great way to catch the action with plenty of seating and a large projector. To tire the cliché of “can’t miss” things in reviews this one has to be used, as it truly is something that cannot be missed.

Lichtensteinalle 2, 10787, Mitte | Bus Nordische Botschaften| €€€€€

11.00–19.00 cafeamneuensee.de Words: Ryan Stelter

Café am Literatur Haus Cafe

If you are looking to blow your budget on an impeccable meal, stop by the Café im Literaturhaus. With just one step in the courtyard, five or so tables shaded by umbrellas peek up from the luscious greenery of the garden.

To the right is a picturesque brick building with tables filling up the porch. Well-dressed individuals sit and talk whilst enjoying their wine and meals. The atmosphere is charming and elegant. It is not quite a place for a twenty-something to enjoy a plentiful meal on a budget. If you plan on going there for a well-balanced meal, a healthy sum of money would help. The wall décor is lovely, and a tree sits pleasantly in the center of the front room. If help is needed to decide what to order, the wait staff will gladly explain the menu. The wine and appetizers are delicious, and the cakes are to die for.

Fasanenstraße 23, 10719, Charlottenburg | 9.00-0.00 Kurfürstendamm | €€€€€ | literaturhaus-berlin.de Words: Laura Hendricksen

43

Bonanza Coffee Roasters Cafe

For the coffee lovers out there searching for a chill café, Bonanza Coffee Heroes should be paid a visit. The inside is more of a studying environment; individuals line the wall in the front room. Perhaps the free wifi has something to do with it. If you prefer to sit outside, there is a lovely courtyard hidden by plants that echoes with the laughter of some happily caffeinated people.

Now, let’s talk about coffee. They have your basic café goods: pastries, cappuccinos, espressos, Americanos and your general cup of joe. They happen to roast their own coffee if that sparks an interest. Paper bags of coffee beans encircle the counter, and shelves can be found stacked with the same.

Be prepared to almost walk past the joint because the store sign is small and a little difficult to read. Also, there is no menu on the wall; it is actually hidden behind bags of coffee. Try to avoid being an awkward tourist unless you want discomforting stares.

Oderberger Straße 35, 10435, Prenzlauer Berg | varies Tram Friedrich-Ludwif-Jahn-Sportpark| €€€€€ | bonanzacoffee.de

Words: Laura Hendricksen

Rausch Schokoladenhaus Raush Chocolate Shop

If there was ever a place perfect for someone with a sweet tooth – and money to spend – it’s Fassbender & Rausch. Every type of chocolate imaginable is displayed on wooden shelves, in small wicker baskets, and in glass cases. The customer walks with awe into the building on a red carpet. Outstanding chocolate sculptures dot the shop: the Reichstag, the Brandenburg Gate, the Titanic, and the TV Tower among them. People with more refined tastes will enjoy the mini tarts and truffles. For those looking for a bit of fun, there are chocolate bears, football balls, and even a chocolate that looks like a photo in a picture frame. Or stick to the basics with a simple chocolate bar. It’s difficult to leave without buying a treat. In addition to the chocolate shop, there is a café and a restaurant within the building. Head on up in the elevator to have a bite to eat before having your desert from the chocolate shop below.

Charlottenstraße 60, 10117, Mitte | | €€€€€ | rausch.de

44

11.00-20.00 |

Stadtmitte Words: Gabrielle Archibald

Bekarei

Bakery

For the coffee lovers out there searching for a chill café, Bonanza Coffee Heroes should be paid a visit. The inside is more of a studying environment; individuals line the wall in the front room. Perhaps the free wifi has something to do with it. If you prefer to sit outside, there is a lovely courtyard hidden by plants that echoes with the laughter of some happily caffeinated people.

Now, let’s talk about coffee. They have your basic café goods: pastries, cappuccinos, espressos, Americanos and your general cup of joe. They happen to roast their own coffee if that sparks an interest. Paper bags of coffee beans encircle the counter, and shelves can be found stacked with the same.

Be prepared to almost walk past the joint because the store sign is small and a little difficult to read. Also, there is no menu on the wall; it is actually hidden behind bags of coffee. Try to avoid being an awkward tourist unless you want discomforting stares.

Dunckerstraße 23, 10437, Prenzlauer Berg | bekarei.com | €€€€€ |

7.30-18.30 |

Prenzlauer Allee | Words: Gabrielle Archibald

Die Eismacher

Ice Cream Shop

Located on the outskirts of Kreuzberg, this shop offers a range of strange but delicious flavours of ice cream for surprisingly low prices. Far from your usual vanilla or mint choc chip, flavours you’re likely to find include Ube, a deep purple ice cream made from Filipino sweet potatoes and coconut-lime which has huge chunks of coconut.

If you’re struggling to read the flavours then the friendly staff will translate them into English and will even give you a sample of any you are interested in. However, although there are a number of hotels in which a traveller may stay, there isn’t very much else in the area. So, unless you find yourself lost or like taking long walks, it’s unlikely that you would find yourself near this shop. Nevertheless, the ice cream they sell is of a high quality and the number of flavours on offer is intriguing and original, so talking a walk out there and giving them a go would be worth the effort.

Körtestrasse 10, 10967,Kreuzberg | | €€€€€ | eismacher-berlin.de

12:00 - 20:00 |

Südstern | Words: Rebecca Gilooly

45

Zur letzten Instanz

Traditional German restaurant

Dating back to 1621, this restaurant – the oldest in Berlin – serves up traditional German food. It’s tucked away down a surprisingly quiet alleyway, when you consider that it’s close to the manic area of Alexanderplatz. The building itself is a beautiful three story townhouse from the 13th century that sits near the courthouses, a fitting place as its name means ‘the last resort’.

The staff are efficient and laid back. With the docile beer garden adjoining the restaurant you can easily wile away an afternoon here. Just remember to book if visiting on a weekend. They serve up large German dishes – grilled pork knuckle with red cabbage and a potato dumpling proves popular. The food is hearty, but they do deliver in terms of finesse and presentation, too. Perfectly poured beer and ice cold schnapps are the type of accompaniment this food is best enjoyed with, a formula that hasn’t needed changing for all of these years. Expect to pay around 40 euros per person with drinks.

Waisenstraße 14-16, 10179 | Mitte | zurletzteninstanz.com

varies|

Klosterstraße |€€€€€ | Words: William Barber

Dicke Wirten

Traditional German restaurant

Meat lovers with a taste for culture flock to Dicke Wirtin, a traditional German pub in Charlottenburg that serves all of the usual suspects, from schnitzel to bratwurst. This small, cozy pub is very darkly lit and a frequent haunt for students at night since it often advertises cheap student deals. Alternatively, the outside terrace is open during the hot summers, if inside is too stuffy for your taste or the size of your party. Such a small pub has a big reputation, and with good reason: the food is excellent, the portions are large, and the atmosphere is cheerful. Most of the staff do not speak English so practice your “bitte schön” before lunch! Ideal for a late lunch or early dinner, Dicke Wirtin also serves up several German beers on tap or in the bottle (for prices cheaper than the Cola!) Located nearby is Kurfürstendamm (or Ku’Dam), a long stretching shopping street, as well as the Berlin Zoo.

Carmerstraße 9, 10623 | Charlottenburg | | €€€€€ | dicke-wirten.de

11.00-0.00 |

Savignyplatz | Words: Rebecca Gilooly

46

BarkettVegan Restaurant 17€ worth of all-you-can-eat raw, healthy vegan food combined with the trek to get there puts Barkett at the top of the list for lifestyle improvement. But whether you’re vegan or not, it’s quite a struggle to find much flavour in this buffet of cauliflower rice, raw pizza and quinoa burgers. With a spinach and banana smoothie included for starters, there really isn’t too much choice and the steep price could easily go to waste if you want something a little less bland. Better options can be found, for example, at Chupenga where the combination of flavours within a burrito seem to work better. Although dessert does make up for it with poppy seed cake, chocolate dipped strawberries and fruit salad – bear in mind the menu will vary slightly each week too! The English-speaking staff are extremely helpful and friendly, and the cafe itself is decorated in an airy garden style. A little difficult to find, it is local-oriented.

Czeminskistraße 10, 10829, Schöneberg| barkett.berlin

Julius-Leber-Brücke| €€€€€ | Words: Amie Pearce

Sankt Oberholz St Oberholz Cafe One thing you won’t ever hear people boast about in Berlin is the abundance of wifi. If you’re looking for somewhere to hangout and soak up some much needed internet, St Oberholz has exactly that. This quaint yet spacious cafe by day and bar by night provides decent wifi and plenty of upstairs seating to enjoy. Located on the busy Rosenthaler Platz square and directly opposite the tram stop, it has the perfect combination of multiple, accessible plug sockets as well as a diverse drinks menu. Tea, juices, cocktails and other alcoholic beverages are offered along with pastries, cakes and various lunch options.

However, they don’t offer much else in the way of food, so perhaps bring something for yourself if you’re intending to stay until the 12am closing time! It is potentially a good place for a few drinks before heading to bigger clubs in Berlin, but the vibe is more suited for winding down. Cheaper drinks may be found elsewhere, as a fritz cola is priced at 2.90€ and prices only go up from there. It is worth a visit to St Oberholz for the atmosphere and the wifi.

Rosenthaler Straße 72 A, 10119, Mitte | 8.00-0.00 | Rosenthaler Platz |€€€€€ | sanktoberholz.de Words: Amie Pearce

47

Viêt Phô’ at the Dong Xuan Center Vietnamese restaurant

Berlin is one city that wholeheartedly accepts and embraces intercultural collaboration, and one way it does this is with its eclectic array of eateries. The city streets are lined with restaurants offering food from foreign cultures such as Mexico, Japan, Turkey and Vietnam, to name a few.

In the Lichtenburg district, travelers can find the Dong Xuan Center where you can find a market offering up delicious and fresh produce as well as the restaurant, Viet Phô. The portions are generous, and the food will cause one to have cravings again and again. It is not in a particularly obvious location, but the fun part is the random stumble-upon. The staff is friendly and accommodating, and the cooks…oh dear, they’re amazing! For the hungry traveler on a budget with an appetite for pho, the price is low for a high-quality meal. Vietnamese is the predominant language, so be prepared to do some charades for things like water. It is definitely worth the struggle, though!

Herzbergstraße. 128-139, 10367, Lichtenberg | M8 Herzbergstraße/Industriegebiet | €€€€€ |

Mon.-Fri. 9.00-22.00

vietpho.de

Words: Laura Hendricksen

Burgermeister street food Located underneath the U-Bahn rail tracks in Kreuzberg, this is a burger shack converted from an old public toilet. This part of town is buzzing every night of the week and people come a long way to sample these burgers. It is on a lot of tourist’s hit-lists, and as such there can be a bit of a wait for food. However, the workers give out numbers and call the customer when the burger is ready rather than leave him or her in an unforgiving queue.

As soon as one walks up, there is an equal feel of anticipation from those waiting, satisfaction from those eating and despair from those who have just finished. Combine that with the smell coming from the stand (yes, better than it used to be) and you know before you’ve tried it that it’s going to be a winner.

Soft brioche bun, crunchy lettuce and onions, delicious melted cheese and expertly cooked meat of superb quality. There are a few variations involving chili, cheese and barbeque sauce. They also have a highly praised tofu burger if meat isn’t your thing. It wouldn’t be surprising if these guys branched out and soon had a chain of restaurants.

Oberbaumstraße 8, 10997, Kreuzberg | Mon.-Thurs. 11.00-3.00, Fri.-Sat. 1.00-4.00 | Schlesisches Tor | €€€€€ | 48

burger-meister.de

Words: William Barber

A VEGETARIAN IN BERLIN

WORDS: LAURA HENDRICKSEN

FEATURE: VEGETARIAN FOOD

People usually presuppose that Berlin (or anywhere in Germany, really) caters to everyone but the veggies, the vegans or the like. Yeah, this is not true. For the non-carnivorous traveler, food is still what’s for dinner. Sure, currywurst and bratwurst joints line the streets, but even these places have at least one vegetarian option. Try the vegetarian currywurst - it’s delicious.

Once upon a time, a young, vegetarian woman was going to Berlin but feared that her “balanced” meals would consist of pommes frites “fries” and beer. Although pommes frites are surprisingly tasty with ketchup and mayonnaise, better food can be found.

Look for the word vegetarische, and life will be a pretty thing.

If the desire for a vegetarian/vegan restaurant is still weighing heavily on the mind, never fear. Berlin has so many options for the average veg, and all you have to do is look.

Heck, you may even just stumble upon a place! The city is full of surprises.

For the best tofu-burger you’ve ever had in your life, head to Burgermeister. If you love pho, head to Viêt Phô’ for the vegefied version. Maybe you like burritos, and if that’s the case, head to Burrito Baby. If you want Turkish, Mexican, Spanish or Italian food, you will find something. Don’t miss out on the döner culture and try out Vöner, where vegan döners are the specialty. Seriously, I’m telling you that Berliners understand the veg-life, and you won’t have to starve. That’s pretty nice, right?

So, next time you have an ounce of fear that you will have to denounce your vegetarianism/veganism in order to eat in Berlin, let it go because you have nothing to worry about. You can still enjoy German food without having to crack.

49

OUTSIDE SPACES

PHOTO: Weißer See, page 55

50

Schlossgarten Charlottenburg Gardens of Charlottenburg Palace

Behind the impressive façade of Schloss Charlottenburg are its beautiful gardens, with their hypnotic flowerbed patterns and calm waters of the central lake. Although originally part of the Palace’s grounds, the gardens are now a public park. They are extremely popular with locals and tourists alike and you have to constantly watch out for cyclists, joggers, and dog-walkers on sunny days. It is very relaxing to wander through the shady woodland, grassy areas, or walk along the River Spree, which lies on the garden’s eastern boundary. There are also plenty of opportunities to stop and smell the flowers, particularly if they are in full bloom. The gardens have plenty of shady spots and benches to rest your feet from exploring the large grounds. It’s easy to get distracted by the park’s beauty and end up getting lost on one of the many winding paths, but that makes it part of the fun. While visiting the garden itself is free there are entrance fees for the buildings and the palace (7–12€). Since the park is a bit out of the way from central Berlin, visiting the palace as well is highly recommended to make the most of the trip, although not necessary for appreciating its tranquil atmosphere.

Spandauer Damm 10–22, 14059, Charlottenburg | Bus 109 Luisenplatz |€€€€€ |

Words: Kait Macdonald

Park Sanssouci Rich in Prussian history, Sanssouci Park makes for a good setting if you like a walk or fancy a picnic on a nice day. The park is pretty massive so you aren’t likely to encounter any crowds, which is great if you want to enjoy a peaceful day in a wooded green area with family or friends. There are limited facilities, an overpriced gift shop being the only place to buy snacks, so bringing your own food is definitely recommended. It also costs 50 cents to use the bathroom. The park is located just outside of Berlin and takes a little while to get there but you probably won’t want to spend the entire day here as looking at the palaces can become quite repetitive. Once you’ve gotten lost in the park and seen the potatoes on Friedrich the Great’s grave, head over to other places in the area such as the Biosphäre indoor rainforest and the Roman baths which are reachable by bus.

Maulbeerallee, 14469, Potsdam |

8.00 – 20.00 | Bus 695 or X15 from Station Potsdam Hauptbahnhof |€€€€€ | spsg.de

Words: Rebecca Gilooly

51

Tiergarten This park is a beautiful green space situated between Brandenburg Gate and the Victory Column. The relaxed atmosphere will strike you immediately as buskers sing and some man in a strange hat blows giant bubbles that may or may not hit you in the face. If monuments are your thing then there are plenty scattered across Tiergarten. If you don’t fancy a long walk around the entire park, basically anywhere is a great place to plop down and soak up some sun, munch on an ice cream or take a nap. If you happen to be there at the right time of year, one of the more interesting monuments features a collection of pretty normal looking rocks. However, on the 21st of June each year, they align to reflect light and is designed to promote global peace and tolerance. A lattice of bus routes also run through and around the park, meaning public transport is never far away.

Straße des 17. Juni 31, 10785, Mitte | tierpark-berlin.de |

Tierpark |€€€€€ | Words: Rebecca Gilooly

Teufelsberg Created from the rubble of bombed buildings after the Second World War, Teufelsberg is a wooded mountain in the west of the city. Fifteen minutes from Heerstraße train station, you can enter the forest and follow the meandering paths up the hill. At the top you’ll likely stumble upon the former NSA field station, established during the Cold War. While the radio domes and concrete buildings still exist they’re derelict and every bare wall has been covered in graffiti.

Although Teufelsberg is one of the highest points in Berlin, the dense forest means that unless you pay to enter the former field station at the very top you won’t be able to see much of the city. However, right next to Teufelsberg is Drachenberg, a flat topped hill free from trees, which has panoramic views over the whole of city, making it an ideal picnic spot. Looking west you can see the vast Grünewald forest and east is the rest of Berlin where you’ll be able to pick out landmarks like the Berliner Dom, the Siegesäule and the TV Tower.

Teufelsberg, 14055, Grunewald |

Heerstraße | Field station: 7€/5€ | Words: Zoë Charlesworth

52

Tempelhofer Park Only in Berlin will you find an out-of-use airport functioning as a giant park. Tempelhofer Park was Tempelhofer Airport up until 2008. It was one of three European airports to pre-date the Second World War. On top of this, from 1948-1949, it was the central zone of the Berlin Airlift. There was a cry of outrage from the people in regards to the decision to close down the airport’s operations in October of 2008, but the miniscule voter turnout prevented nothing. Since its closing, the area has become a treasured feature nestled in the south-central section of the city.

Runners, strollers, bikers, ball players, sun-soakers, food-grillers, kite-flyers, Segway-riders and so much more can be found at Tempelhofer Park. The vast landscape gives any park-goer many options for play, rest or what have you. As aforementioned, one can rent Segway’s, bikes, kites and other useful commodities at Tempelhofer. If an outdoor gym sounds better, well hey, they have that too! Honestly, there is just something so amazingly freeing about playing around on a former iconic airstrip.

Tempelhofer Damm 90, 12101, Tempelhof |

Tempelhof |€€€€€ | Words: Laura Hendricksen

Görlitzer Park Although most Berliners would heavily advise avoidance after nightfall, Görlitzer Park is quite lovely by day and is worth a visit. The park reverberates with a pleasant calmness. Just 10 feet through the entrance, individuals are seen strolling along, reading on benches or performing some kind of exercise.

Every year on the 1st of May (May Day), individuals flock to Görlitzer Park for the festivities, which has been described by some locals as being a particularly enjoyable experience. After building up an appetite walking or biking along the trails, take a short walk down the street to Maranda’s, a local Turkish restaurant, for some authentic and delicious Turkish food.

As nice as it may be, it is not the most innocent of places. It would seem that the laws are somewhat forgotten inside its borders, and drug dealing is shockingly blatant. However, there is really nothing to fret about. Families with small children can be found playing on the grassy hillside just 15 meters from such activity. It is truly a wonderful place to spend an afternoon.

Görlitzer Straße, 10997, Kreuzberg |

Görlitzer Bahnhof | €€€€€| Words: Laura Hendricksen

53

Treptower Park Imagine strolling down a tree-lined path alongside a meandering river. There is a slight breeze in the air, and each passerby is at peace. Coming up ahead, just a short skip from a dazzling bridge, is a small shack enveloped by colorful little boats. For a small price, one can rent a boat, grab a mate and paddle beside the swans as they gracefully drift down the river. Enjoy the picturesque view of the Berlin skyline and try to steer clear of the fishermen as they patiently await their catch.

Catch a bite at one of the many riverside cafés or simply lie down in the shade with a good book. If someone fancies a historical tour, the Soviet Memorial is planted just a short walk away. If you have to use the facilities, I advise against using the toilet just inside the park. For 0,50 euros, one will face the most confusing of situations. However, if a good feet soaking from 8 jets lining the bottom 4 inches of the wall sounds nice, that’s the place to go!

Puschkin Allee, 12435, Alt-Treptow |

Treptower Park | €€€€€ | Words: Laura Hendricksen

Müggelsee Lake Berlin has got no shortage of outdoor activities and Müggelsee is one of the best. The biggest lake in Berlin is worth a trip on a hot summer day- bring a Frisbee or a football and toss it around on the large beach or take part in a game of beach volleyball which at times can get pretty intense. Make sure to watch out for all the ducks roaming around, but don’t worry- they are very friendly and will eat out of your hands. After sweating it out on the beach, wade into the refreshing waters of the lake and take in the great views. To get out further on to the lake, rent a paddleboat for ten euros. After all that fun in the sun, hit up the café in the shade and relax with a cold Berliner Pilsner. A great, free way to spend a day, but make sure you pack some sunscreen.

Fürstenwalder Damm 838, 12589, Alt-Treptow |Tram M61 Strandbad Müggelsee | €€€€€ | am-mueggelsee.de Words: Ryan Stelter

54

Schlachtensee Lake If you are lucky enough to be in Berlin longer than a few days and the sun is shining, a trip to Schlachtensee Lake in the south-west part of the city should be on your agenda. The forty-five minute journey on public transport from the city centre shouldn’t deter you. Once you leave the station, you walk down a few steps and find yourself lakeside. Take a right and walk through the winding forest path. If there are any still free and you fancy it, there are enclaves that offer more privacy than the main swimming area. Continue until you reach a grassy bank where the majority of people lay about on their towels in the sun. There is the odd bit of unsightly nudity from the locals, but other than that the view out onto the lake is stunning. The water is a cooling escape from the heat. When you’re ready, there is a café and restaurant overlooking the lake with plenty of cold beers to choose from. Big groups of locals have amassed by the afternoon, clinking their glasses like long lost friends with smiles aplenty - ‘prost’ and ‘chin-chin’ echoing the cheer of the day. It makes for a great day out and it’s hard to believe this is so close to the centre of Berlin. If you want to avoid the crowds it is best to get there early, especially on the weekend, and a cheaper option for food and drinks can be found by the station.

Schlachtensee, 14163, Steglitz-Zehlendorf |

Schlachtensee | €€€€€ | Words: William Barber

WeißerLaSee ke Located in the East Berlin district of Weissensee, this is not all that far from the centre of Berlin. It almost has no right to be as stunning a place as it is. It is surrounded by Weissensee Park, a wooded track path that runs around the outside of the lake that is a spot for local joggers and cyclists. There is also a manmade fountain in the middle of the water.

A cluster of bars and cafes adorns one side of the lake. These sit by a strip of sand and plenty of benches - a cool place to hang out. On Sundays, there is a dance on the deck by the lake. The laid-back ambience of this spot is captured by the jive, salsa and swing that is played. The cost is worth it, as the water here is clearer than at some of the other spots. If interested, a boat rental service is also on offer.

Berliner Allee 155, 13088, Pankow |Tram M13 Berliner Allee |5€ | Words: William Barber

55

Bearpit Karaoke If you’re in the middle of Berlin and you find yourself watching some kid moonwalk to Michael Jackson’s ‘Bad’ or listening to a Dutch guy’s rendition of Footloose, then you’re probably at the Bearpit Karaoke in Mauerpark. And whether you’re a lover or a hater of karaoke, you’ll definitely leave pleasantly surprised.

This free event is kindly hosted every Sunday by Irish Joe, joker and singer alike, bringing together hundreds of people to give a bizarre sample of what life in Berlin has to offer.

Be sure to grab a good seat in the bearpit and get comfy (not likely unless you bring a cushion) because the entertainment runs all day with the karaoke kicking off at 3pm until sometime after 7pm depending on the enthusiasm!

Assuming Joe has the track available on his portable battery-powered sound system, and weather permitting, anyone is welcome to take to the stage and wow the audience of the stone amphitheatre. A mixture of nations and talents swarm the park for the event, so why not have a go yourself or just sit back and enjoy the show!

Bernauer Straße 63-64, 10785, Prenzlauer Berg |Tram Friedrich-Ludwig-Jahn-Sportpark Sun 15.00-19.30 |€€€€€ | bearpitkaraoke.com Words: William Barber

56

BARS & CLUBS

PHOTO: Badeschiff, see page 58

57

Klunkerkranich Beach Bar

For many travelers, the zeitgeist of Berlin is its allure: the draw of city life teeming with culture and history populated by eccentric characters and intriguing personalities. You can do just about anything in the landlocked German capital—including go to the beach. Spread out across the city, beach themed bars complete with sun and sand are lively hangouts during the summer. One of the most famous for travelers is Klunkerkranich—a rooftop beach bar with a relaxed, inclusive atmosphere often featuring local music and serving a wide variety of German beers. Clad in shorts and flip flops, you’ll meet a variety of people from around the world traveling just as you are, drinking a Berliner Pilsner and taking in the view of the city sharply punctuated by the omnipresent TV tower glinting in the distance. Ironically located on the rooftop of a large commercial shopping complex, escape the city right on the high street.

Neukölln Arcaden, Karl-Marx-Straße 66, 12043 , Neukölln | Rathaus Neukölln | €€€€€ | klunkerkranich.org

10.00 - 1.30 | Words: Milan Cater

Badeschiff

Beach Bar

On a hot sunny day all signs point to Berlin’s many beach bars, and a top choice is the Badeschiff. This beach bar, tucked away by the Arena Berlin, features a neon blue pool mounted on the Spree river: the blending blues of the pool, the sky and the river against the Berlin cityscape make for a truly stunning view. Look to the right and you will see the fighting molecule men statue in the distance; to the left you will see the red Oberbaum Brücke (bridge) and the omnipresent Alexanderplatz TV tower jutting into the sky. The pool is 2 metres deep, enough to summersault out of the humid summer air into the cool city oasis. The wooden deck is often packed with lounging beach chairs and a station for renting surfboards is open in the mornings and early evening. Before you arrive at the pool area there is the man-made beach complete with swinging couches, warm sand, a BBQ food truck and a fully stocked bar. This beach bar is extremely popular and it isn’t unheard of to be greeted by a 2 hour long wait in the queue, but is certainly worth the wait.

Eichenstraße 4, 12435, Alt-Treptow | arena.berlin | €€€€€ | 58

8.00 - 0.00 |

Treptower Park Words: Milan Cater

TRESOR

SALON ZUR WILDEN RENATE

Tresor is a revered institution in the techno world.

Celebrating 25 years since opening in 1991, people travel from around the world to hear the best DJs and techno artists play in an iconic atmosphere.

Inside the powerplant-turned-club, a labyrinth of rooms are connected by a long tunnel. Flashing lights, smokey air and an impressive sound system deliver clean beats and a meditative atmosphere, where you can dance from midnight until noon.

The main dancefloor, the Tresor cellar, is pressed in between two bank safes, blocking out all concept of time and space with music. Notorious for its strict door policy, avoid taking photos, going in large groups or being overtly intoxicated--you will only be let in if you are really there to dance. Headlining acts usually play between 3am and 6am.

This club is one of the most creative nightlife venues in Berlin: formerly a block of apartments beside the Spree river, this derelict building has been transformed in true Berlin fashion into a bizarre and entertaining atmosphere to dance the night away to techno. The outside is a biergarten with mismatching old chairs, a gazebo overgrown with greenery and a few hidden rooms around the back.

The three main rooms inside host different DJs of various subgenres of techno: The Green Room, The Red Room and the Black Room. The many other rooms become rest, smoking and bar areas. The rooms of Renate resemble an abandoned hoarder’s home or a storage space for a fleamarket vendor: it is full of stuff on the walls and on the ceiling, including a room with a giant robotic woman crawling away from a generator, and another bedroom kept intact with all the furnishings. While not particularly strict at the door, this club does restrict their services to chosen clientele, and can ask an assortment of questions at the door like where you’re from, why you’re at this club, and if you’re over 21. On the cheaper side of Berlin’s nightclubs, Renate is worth it for the uniquely great atmosphere they create.

Köpenicker Straße 70, 10179, Mitte | Heinrich-Heine-Straße |

0.00 - 12.00 | 15€/10€ | tresorberlin.com Words:Milan Cater

Alt-Stralau 70, 10245, Friedrichshain | Treptower Park |

0.00 -7.00 | renate.cc Words:Milan Cater

60

BERLIN AFTER DARK NO PHOTOS PLEASE

WORDS: WILLIAM BARBER

FEATURE: BARS, CLUBS & NIGHTLIFE

Berlin’s nightlife is an ever-changing beast, with countless ways to experience and enjoy it. As such some sort of comprehensive list of places just isn’t feasible. You can have as chilled or as crazy a night as you wish - it does have it all. Just wandering the streets at night taking in the sights and sounds with a road beer is an awesome adventure in itself, you are never too far from a corner shop, a staple in Berlin nightlife. Look out for the signs Spätkauf or Stube indicating little shops to hook you up with a cold pilsner, a bottle opener available right at the cashier counter. The transport network’s 24 hour service on the weekend enables you to keep it moving if you want to bar hop or club hop.

Revaler Straße provides partying opportunities - hip-hop, reggae, techno, etc. can be found from one bar to the next. You can walk into one of these crazy places and find deep house music, then come back to the same spot the following night and they have sixties themed swing music from a live band. The spontaneity and randomness of it all will put a smile on your face. If you’ve got the techno craze, then the notoriously strict Berghain may have to be visited, or you can hit up the more lenient Watergate.

Alternatively, if feeling super adventurous, there is KitKat club, a place glittering with nudity, absurdity and awesome techno music.

There is a traditional German beer hall in Alexander Platz if a stein of beer takes your fancy, quite a funny venue when packed on the weekend, although you may find a bunch of English people getting smashed for their mate’s stag do which hardly gives you an authentic Berlin experience. Unsurprisingly, central areas tend to be a tourist trap: a bar called AM to PM is the worst example of this - rip off watery beers, tacky music, depressed staff and drunk tourists - please God no!

A lot of locals will cite Kreuzberg as the area with the best nightlife. It’s not quite as easy as just heading there and finding places as it’s a vast neighbourhood with tucked away streets, but the area near Görlitzer Park, while somewhat sketchy, has a sprawl of heaving bars. It’s where the “cool kids” hang out, so be prepared for some in your face pretension and backwards hats and neck beards. Nevertheless, there are some sweet spots to be found here.

It’s impossible to give a comprehensive guide but hopefully this is a start.

61