Techno is not for everyone

TECHNO IS NOT FOR EVERY ONE

TECHNO IS NOT FOR EVERYONE TREETOP

CONTENTS

BERLIN: IS THIS THE END?

INTRO/TEAM + RAVE CULTURE AND POLITICS IN BERLIN+ A WEST SIDE STORY: THE RISE AND FALL OF THE WALL

BERLIN LOVES LGBTQ+

QUEER ART / BOOKS + DRAG BRUNCH + QUEER PERFORMANCE

TECHNO IS NOT FOR EVERYONE

BERLIN’S ALTERNATIVE MUSIC SCENE + CLASSICAL MUSIC VENUES + A SURREAL MUSEUM

THE BVG: A WORLD HERITAGE SITE?

IS BERLIN’S TRANSPORT NETWORK OFF THE RAILS? + DODGE FARES AT YOUR PERIL

STAND UP BERLIN

A GUIDE TO BERLIN’S STANDUP COMEDY+ THE CITY’S MEETUP CULTURE + QUIRKY KARAOKE

BITES IN BERLIN

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INTRO

Techno is not for everyone seemed an appropriate title for a project designed to uncover the diversity seen in Berlin. All of our contributors share their unique experiences of life as a Berliner, in a city that doesn‘t sleep, and one which cultivates new identities each day. This experimental magazine aims to reflect the importance of individuality, expression and variety that is the beating heart of this city. At Treetop Travel Journalism it is all about the creative process and the collaboration with new people. We are a travel guide with a twist, as we aim for both an eclectic read and a broad, rounded report on the city. For the reader, we want to point you to our favourite spots as well as open up discussion with topical content. The beauty of this place is for you to decide what you take from it. This is Berlin, from our perspective. 'To observe with modesty the pure truth. And to reveal prudently the magic and the mystery...'.

Manchester,HANNAHUK

HANNAH

Manchester, UK text & graphic design

words, editing, lead design & photographyhannahmaybaldwin

hannahmaybaldiwn

words,Dublin,LAURENIreland editing, lead design & photography

lauwwen96

NADIA

Moscow, Russia words, design & photography speranza_pictures

CAROLINA

Kilkis, Greece words, design &photographycarolinatkv

BETHAN

Pembrokeshire, UK words & bluebellsandbuttonsphotography

JOSH

Toronto, Canada words bentleyswan.com

Berlin - is this the end?

From the birthplace of post-wall rave culture to its current stage as global epicenter of the electronic music scene, the city of Berlin (to a newcomer at least) is not much changed. Artists continue to flourish, as well diversity in its habitants and an everlasting encouragement of personal expression.

But for those original Berliners, the city has changed immensely in the three decades since the fall of the wall. In this article, I interviewed Paul Hockenos, Journalist and Author of ‘Berlin Calling’ and Stefanie McAllister Co-founder of MOTZ (a collective of six 20-something Irishwomen, all dedicated to techno), to hear their thoughts on Berlin: then, now and it’s future.

Before the fall of the wall, the two cities of East and West Berlin had formed their own separate, multifaceted subcultures. In 1989 when the wall separating the districts of East and West was historically dismantled, the two countries united as ‘one city’. It was a moment where the two states had quite literally lowered their weaponsareas that had once been heavily fortified could now be passed without disturbance. Brothers and sisters from East and West approached each other with curiosity; with people free to move across the border, there was a great sense of stepping into the mystery of the unknown.

Power plants, bunkers, hangers and underground stations – once owned by the communist state – had suddenly become disused and openly available. Germany entered into a wave of new-found freedom, with the sense of possibility and creativity driven by a state of anarchy. The reunification was celebrated with nonstop parties, and the strong gay, art and underground scenes thrived.

In this defining moment in the city’s history, two communities were challenged with overcoming their differences and crossing the borders of ideology and culture.

Paul: ‘In this moment Berlin realised a dream in a way.People could do their own thing. A project or another: a political project, a music project contributing to culture. A cafe with a theme, a nightclub, a danceclub or a gallery‘

Throughout the 90s techno music ravished through the city, echoing through the invaded spaces like a triumphant call to worship. The raucous energy of the unified city was channeled through the music and its industrial, thumping basslines. The spirit of the music led way to the culture that formed around it; a 24-hour culture, where ecstasy-fuelled nights brought together individuals from East and West, of all descriptions and persuasions.

From years of separation burst the will for shared experiences, as the newly formed city was set the challenge of reinventing its identity. Rave stood for freedom, anti-establishment and the overcoming of the political differences that had divided the country for three decades. A social utopia in which Germany united on the dancefloor.

“And then came the beat. That unmistakable, filthy sound”

Across the decade and through the aughts, the electronic dance music scene did not waver in energy, but rather mutated and morphed, switching locations and enchanting new fan bases. What started as a source of unification within a cozy in-crowd, lured thousands of nightclubbers to the city to have a taste of its expansive clubscape.

Berlin soon established itself as the global epicenter of electronic music, and with its reputation of cheap rents and liberalist attitude, it began to attract a wave of creatives to the city.

Stefanie: “I wanted to go directly to the source. Berlin seemed to be the place every DJ and agency set up base. With such a melting pot of artists, there is always new music to be discovered, new producers to be stumbled across. Every one-in-two people you meet have some connection to something or other, and with this a tight community is formed. Loyal ravers can be found on dancefloors on any day of the week. People are completely engrossed with a passion for techno here, popping into a club is just as easy and natural as buying bread“

However, as the scene reached global stardom with clubs such as Tresor, Berghain, KitKat, Sisyphos; Berlin became in-demand.

The original community despair at the influx of tourism through budget airlines, with an estimated 10,000 partiers flying over in a weekend. For Berlin’s creatives, it seemed that the club culture wasn’t there for the music anymore, just the money. These changes still feel sudden and unexpected to many residents.

Paul: “What it turned out is more and more people coming because it was a ‚cool and sexy’ place to be. It was cheap enough to squat, and that’s when the mayor of Berlin thought - this is what we have to sell. They buy into this image of Berlin as being rough around the edges. And then came the idea of completely commodifying it, and then came gentrification and tourists. And they‘re killing it.”

The effects of gentrification pose a threat for Berlin’s creatives and the city’s cultural ethos. The once cheap and shabby streets of Berlin have been given new attention from investors and developers, commodifying its music and artistic scene for foreign resale. Independent creatives wane under the rising rent prices, and in particular, venues suffer from this shift. Club culture within the city is markedly under threat, which has seen the closure of many major venues.

Club culture within the city is markedly under threat, which has seen the closure of many major venues. According to the Club Commission, a group dedicated to promoting and protecting the city’s nightlife, about 100 clubs have closed over the past decade. The Motorway A100 plans to rip through the stronghold of the city’s nightlife, with clubs such as About Blank, Wilde Renata and Polygon all facing closure. Griessmühle announced their final weekend in January, with the Club Commission losing the battle against turning the club into city offices - her final weekend ‘Griessmühle - is this the end?’ marked a turning point in the history of club culture for Berlin.

Stefanie: “From when I first moved to now, I have seen a dramatic change in Berlin. It is not the once open, liberal place it used to be. I can feel it getting colder, lonelier and stranger. Rent prices are through the roof, clubs are closing, public spaces replaced with unnecessary offices. It‘s becoming everything people in the past have fought against for it not to be. The natural, free love this city once had is being crushed by greed.”

However, the people continue to rise, and the energy of the city and it’s people does not recoil. Infact Greissmühle’s closing party was a five-day stint, with a spontaneous extra night for all the loyal clubbers. That filthy, thumping bassline sounding again like the revolutionaries of the 90s.

Berlin is a place with a long history of reconstruction and people-powered politics. With every federal action against the cultural identity of the city, there is a huge reaction amongst the public willing to protect it. The Club Commission sets to work against the powers that be, and thousands take up the fight to protest the city against club closures and rising rent prices. And nestled within this movement, techno and rave culture still serve as a constant means of forming a community against the establishment

Stefanie: “The city may be rapidly changing but the people are not. Where there is love there is fight. Berlin is full of old spaces that are undiscovered.

Nightclubs are seen as more of a ‚community center‘ rather than a disco, it‘s a safe haven for ravers to escape the norms of reality.”

Paul: “The thing is with Berlin, it always managed to reinvent itself. They have gotten wise now that gentrification has gone too far, and that normal people can no longer afford the rent, as well as people that have lived here years and years. Hopefully it can be slowed down through legislation and a lot of it depends on the economy.”

Regeneration in Berlin is within the entire fabric of this innovative city. It remains beautiful despite the scars it bares from its history. It’s bound to reform, but as long as it remains protected by its creatives, it will continue to strive positively. The rave culture embedded in this city goes beyond senseless drug-raves, for it is far more profound. It is an international phenomenon with social and political significance; it is the crossing of borders and the unifying of people through a common thread of music. Berlin’s legacy lives on through the form of rave, where people continue to come together to forget all boundaries and unite in the euphoria of techno culture.

Above all else - “Rave culture, as an art form, is about community – by any means necessary.” And through community, there is resistance.

JON SHARD – DEPOT MAYFIELD EXHIBITION, MANCHESTER.

A WEST SIDE STORY: THE RISE AND FALL OF THE WALL

Bethan Reynolds

@bluebellsandbuttons

‘Turn the television on’, her Aunty said, ‘they’ve built a wall’.

It’s safe to say that the Berlin we live in today is a world away from the divided city it once was. For many of us, it is hard to imagine a Capital sliced in two, but for Berliners it was a reality for 28 long years.

‘It was a Sunday, ich werde nie vergessen’, Yvonne says, meaning ‘I will never forget’. On that day, she was 12 years old. About to leave the house and travel to Koppernick laden with gifts, luxury items and food her Grandfather’s Birthday - Yvonne and her family were stopped in their tracks. Her whole family lived in Wedding, except her Grandparents who were trapped behind the Eastern side of the wall. unable to see their family and not knowing when they would be reunited

Speaking from her quaint kitchen in the old French Quarter of Berlin, Yvonne is surrounded by cabinets full of antique porcelain, tea sets and ornaments; her two little whippets bounce around the house excitedly. It’s a home she shares with her husband Illias who is smoking in the next room, and their son Tolli. Her face is characterful and expressive while she talks, emotions written like text upon her face.

When Yvonne’s Aunty telephoned her mother at their family home in Wedding on the 13th of August 1961, she never could never have imagined it would be a scene etched into her mind forever.

Between 1957 and 1961, the number of people defecting from East to West using West Berlin as a crossing point reached an all time high.

Ordered by Walter Ulbricht (leader of the German Democratic Republic - GDR) on the 13th of August 1961 barbed wire fences sprung up overnight, a hard border aiming to stop anybody from leaving the East.

All crossing points were closed with immediate effect, and so one city became two. The initial barbed wire fence which was constructed in just two days was swiftly replaced with giant, grey, concrete slabs and blocks; over 40KM of which ran directly through the centre of Berlin.

Yvonne stirs her coffee. There’s several photo albums on the table. ‘There were only three open roads leading out of West Berlin’, she says, ‘one towards Hamburg in the North, one Westerly road to Hannover and one to the South towards Munich. The trains and roads were always full and strictly controlled, but once the wall went up it was stricter, guards pulled everything out of the cars, bags and suitcases. They looked everywhere, checked everything. It became harder to travel, but we could still go on holiday’. She turns the pages of the album to one containing holiday snaps, her and a friend in short white dresses. It was on this holidays that she met Illias, a Greek man with a long beard and a motorbike. They fell in love, wrote love letters and learnt each other’s languages.

Later Illias moved to West Berlin where he and Yvonne were married. Had she lived just a few miles east, perhaps this first chance meeting and the events that followed would never have taken place.

‘We were forbidden from entering the East, and the East Berliners were forbidden from entering the West. Many people lost their jobs, or were separated from their family.

It wasn’t until much later that we as West Berliners were able to visit East Berlin for Christmas. After waiting in a long queue, you were given a pass and could visit relatives for 24 hours during Christmas. So, around ten years after the wall was built, we were able to visit my Grandmother again. . She was living there alone. Sadly, just a year after the wall was constructed, my grandfather had passed’.

A few years later when Yvonne’s grandmother could no longer work, she was able to leave East Berlin and travel to the West. She came to Wedding and lived with Yvonne’s Mother.

What a relief it must have been for Yvonne and family to have her close by again. Perhaps though, although undoubtedly a happy time, it could have also been a double-edged sword for Yvonne’s grandmother. It must have been wonderful to live with her family, to see them every day after all that time apart. But in order to do so she had to leave the place she called home and the house she shared with her late husband; she left memories and friends knowing that she could never return.

‘Somehow it had become normal for me that there was a wall. But, when Illias came to Berlin in 1979 he found it very strange to live in a closed state, he found the wall very mysterious. It was very American here and capitalist; you could work a lot, earn a lot and buy a lot. It was totally different in East Berlin, it was much harder to do anything there.

“The Wall was an edifice of fear. On November 9th, it became a place of joy.“

- Former German President Horst Köhler, Berlin, November 9th 2009.

On the evening of the 9th of November 1989 Illias shouted to Yvonne from the living room where he sat watching the evening news. Yvonne and her son who was three and a half years old at the time had been sleeping. ‘Come and look at the television’, Illias said, ‘they’re tearing down the wall!‘.

And so, a story that began being broadcast through a television screen, ended the same way. Blocks and barbed wire were brought to the ground, huge greyblocks tumbling like dominoes. A chaotically beautiful journey began. The east flocked to the West, shops sold out of luxury goods such as oranges, bananas and schnapps. Families and friends were reunited, able to hug one another again after years of brief and censored communication.

‘Life didn’t change much, but we could go to so many more places once the wall came down. We travelled somewhere every weekend. We went back to East Berlin, to Köpenick where I spent time with my grandparents growing up. Life was good.’

Although Berlin struggled politically, socially and economically for several years after the wall fell, this was the beginning of the end, this was spring after a long winter - it was hope. Like the Japanese art of Kintsugi, something that was once broken into many pieces was slowly and painstakingly restored. It is a testament to the people of Berlin that a wall, created only to divide them, made the people here more resilient and more united than ever before.

BERLIN LOVES LG BT Q+

CHANTAL‘S HOUSE OF SHAME

Every Thursday night (doors @ 11:00 PM) at The Suicide Circus - Warschauer Brücke, Revaler Straße 99, 10245, Berlin, Deutschland “Ladies and Gentlemen, the Fabulous Chantal. It’s party time!” That iconic phrase, followed by Berlin nightlife queen Chantal’s voice laid over a sexy, slinky techno beat is the theme song for a very special party. Chantal’s House of Shame has now been running for more than 20 years – no small feat given how most everything in clubland has a short half life – about the same length as money and entertainment. Chantal’s weekly shindig has become a Berlin institution. The party is sexy, trashy, and lots of fun. Many wellknown Drag Queens, such as Gloria Viagra, got their start on Chantal’s stage. The crowd is mostly gay, and willing to have a good time in true Berlin fashion. If you have left the party before dawn breaks, then you haven’t really partied. Plan on arriving at Midnight, and budget yourself 20 – 30 EUR for a good time.

TIPSY BEAR

Located right in the centre of Prenzlauer Berg, Tipsy Bear is a friendly queer bar welcoming people of all persuasions. This quirky space is a gem for watching Berliner‘s unique performances and, in this venue, you rarely know what to expect. Stand-up comics spark waves of relatable content within the community of sex, sexuality and the realness of life in Berlin. Conveniently ‘English speaking’ for the non-Germans in the room, the stand-up shows encourage an inclusive atmosphere where locals and visitors can socialise and be entertained. With a real focus on queer talent, other acts include interpretive dance, drag and burlesque. Expect rawness from the performers but with a light heartedness and a great sense of fun.

Events change regularly so keep a look out on their Facebook page or try your luck with a casual drop in, all profit is made from donations at the end of the night so no need for pre-planning. Sundays there is a fabulous drag brunch and Thursday you can strut your stuff with Karaoke. Aside from events, this bar offers a cozy atmosphere and great cocktails to enjoy drinks with friends, or a hot date. Although the menu is not the cheapest, this bar is always worth a visit! Entertainment is really the focus here - Tipsy Bear prides itself as an exciting venue to be enjoyed by anyone willing to step out of their comfort zone.

LARS DEIKE & HIS OSTKREUZ ATELIER

Lars Deike is one of Berlin’s most accomplished painters, specializing in depictions of Bondage, Domination and Sadomasochism (BDSM), though his work portrays an entire range of gay male sexuality. In Spring 2019 Deike moved his Atelier from Hauptstraße in the city’s Schöneberg district, into a very large space near Ostkreuz Bahnhof. The Atelier regularly hosts Fashion shows, Theater performances and more. Deike was born into a Publishers’ family in Constance, Germany in 1963. Because of his father’s connections within Berlin’s newspaper world, Deike became one of Berlin’s youngest Journalists when he began writing for The Berliner Gazette at age 18. He stayed with the Gazette for two years before moving to California to study photography.

His first photography exhibition was held at The Rage Club on Santa Monica Boulevard in West Hollywood, California. It was advertised with a double page spread in a local gay magazine Upon returning to Germany in 2001, Deike moved to Munich, where he set up his own phography studio. During this time he continued developing his speciality in black and white male nudes, as well as Fetish themes. “I had nearly every day Hustlers (to photograph) very cute boys with set cards,” said Deike. Eventually Deike became “stressed out” at what he saw as photography’s restrictions as a medium. By the time he made the transition from professional Photographer to Painter, Deike had returned to Berlin – known worldwide for its gay fetish parties .

“When I’m painting I can always do it and renew it. So I used my photography to translate into painting,” he says. Deike bases his current works on photographs of models, often placed into abandoned settings – what Deike refers to as ‘lost places.’ Anyone involved in Berlin’s gay scene can find something to enjoy in Deike’s body of work. There is a potency to the energy of his paintings – particularly those of gay men having sex.

.When asked if there‘s any kind of art he still wants to make, or medium that he still wants to experiment with, Deike says, “Art is a fluid thing. It grows, it changes… Art is always living. (And for me) if I don’t paint for a long time, then I don’t feel good.” His work can be seen around the City, though primarily at the Brezel Café (Kalckreuthstraße 16, 10777) and through making an appointment to visit his Atelier. Throughout 2020 you can also find him at one of the monthly ‘Lars Deike & Friends’ exhibitions hosted by the Brezel.

@JOSH BENTLEY SWAN

PRINZ EISENHERZ BUCHHANDLUNG

Prinz Eisenherz Buchhandlung is Berlin’s definitive queer bookstore, presided over by friendly co-owners Franz Brandmeier and Roland Müller-Flashar. Located in Motzstraße in the heart of Schöneberg, Berlin’s traditional gay neighbourhood, Eisenherz has been in business for more than 40 years. On the store’s shelves one can find a thorough selection ranging from History titles to Biography to Fiction both classic and contemporary. Müller-Flashar, who has worked for Eisenherz for 31 years, says even in a digital age it is vital to have a queer bookstore. “The Internet is artificial. In a bookstore you see real books and (interact with) real people,” he said.

For young people in the process of coming out, Müller-Flashar had this to say: “It’s so relaxing to take the first step (in coming out) and talk to people. I still believe books are a good support.” Asked what he counts among his favourite titles, Müller-Flashar names Christopher Isherwood’s A Single Man. First published in 1964, the novel focuses on the internal life of a British professor living in Southern California, struggling to cope with the death of his lover. It is one of the few novels that Müller-Flashar enjoyed enough to read twice. “When I read it again, I trembled,” he said. Today Eisenherz stands out for being among just a handful of surviving queer bookstores in the world. Others include Le Mots a La Bouche in Paris, France, and Glad Day Bookshop in Toronto, Ontario, Canada.

For people who love gay literature Eisenherz Buchhandlung absolutely must be visited.

@JOSH BENTLEY-SWAN

TUCKER BRUNCH BAR

Lauren Dempsey @lauwwen96

Despite its fitting name, ‘Tucker Brunch Bar’ in Friedrichshain is not actually a permanent drag venue. On 7th December, however, the vibrant café invited its customers to ‘Get Tucked’ while enjoying performances from some tucking masters, as they hosted their second Drag Brunch as a festive, end-of-year celebration.

The chilled vibe of ‘Tucker’, on most days, is welcoming to those with laptops, babies or dogs. The chilled-out music sets the tone for Berliners who want to grab a quick coffee or sit over a cup, or glass of something stronger, spending hours in deep discussion. The emphasis is really on the tucker, Aussie slang for food. Inspired by their Australian roots, they offer a selection of fun, fresh and delicious dishes to be enjoyed as a late breakfast or early lunch.

Their Drag Brunch Christmas Edition was not a typical day. Although usually laid back, booking was highly advisable, with availability between 12:30 pm and 4:30 pm. Upon arrival, it was easy to see why. The small venue was bursting with people, groups of friends chatting and laughing loudly. Entry cost €7 including a mimosa or coffee, which is reasonable considering it’s normally €5 for the bubbly beverage anyway. Brunch was ordered as usual and enjoyed with a mind-blowing Espresso Martini, decorated expertly with coffee beans in the shape of a penis.

Entertainment was provided by Gonnorhianna, Jizmikhunt and HP Loveshaft who can lovingly be described as hot messes. Drunker than the customers, the queens and king performed Christmas carols in front of the counter, like kids who had just received a karaoke machine for Christmas. Dressed in a red glitter gown Gonnorhianna showcased her vocal range and endearing humour while Jizmikhunt, the pregnant nun, danced seductively on a chair. Engaging with the audience, even smoking with them during breaks and stealing their drinks, the performers ensured no one escaped the wrath of their shady comments.

The day was a celebration of challenges to social constraints that Millenials are concerned with, like why can’t men wear dresses, hair and makeup? Or- why can’t we get drunk at noon over a plate of perfectly cooked eggs? There’s nothing quite like getting into the Christmas spirit with a few hoe, hoe, hoes.

‘Tucker’ doesn’t have a set schedule for drag brunches, however, they post frequently on their Instagram so it‘s easy to keep up to date with their events.

@tuckerbrunchbar

@itsgonnorhianna

@jizmikhunt

@h.p.loveshaft

Techno is not for everyone

B

erlin’s reunification opened a defining chapter in Techno. It might not be the city that it originated from, but it is the city where it thrived the most. Socio-political issues have often played an important role on the global music scene. Psychedelic Rock was introduced by Hippies during the 60’s - the foundations were built in experimentation and the establishment of a peaceful world. In the unstable and monarchic United Kingdom of the 70’s, frustration was expressed through Punk. Minorities in Europe and the United states found empowerment in Disco. It was the genre that allowed them to dance and express themselves in extravagant ways, without being judged.

Germany’s search for identity within in a divided country, along with the need for detachment from the “Americano” genre, brought Electronic music. The genre was born in Dusseldorf, with Kraftwerk recognised as the pioneers of Electro. It is often assumed that Techno was born in Germany as well. However, the story is different. The pioneers of Techno are the Belleville Three. Despite the accolade the Belleville Three had, Techno culture was not developed in the United States, even if it appeared there first. Techno, in its essence, was established in Germany, in the country where Electro was born, and cultivated in a city that had so much to say. Finally what made it different and unique from other genres is that everyone could find a voice in it.

Berlin in the 80’s had a very strong political, gay and underground scene. As soon as the Wall fell, Berlin became the city where everything was possible. The instability of the East resulted in many incidents of squatting, and this was an inspirational factor for the Techno scene. People were not only occupying empty spaces for living, but also for partying. That was the way that the famous club Tresor was established in 1991. Despite the fact that Tresor was illegal, for three years the lack of authority gave it the power to grow stronger. What made Techno unique for that time in comparison to other music genres is that the Techno scene is non-judgemental. It was a great space where people could be themselves despite their sexual orientation and status. The counterculture grew, leaving the door open for the unconventional to soon become mainstream. In the past, Techno was a way of expression and reunification for the LGBT community, outsiders and suppressed citizens who lived for so long in a divided city.

Nonetheless Berlin now has a different form of suppression. Thus, there is still the need for ecstatic experiences. The difficulties of everyday life may have changed but many of the stresses have remained.

Berlin is poor but sexy, as its former mayor Klaus Wowereit once said. However, over the past years, the city has changed rapidly due to the attraction that it has to the rest of the world. When the conversation comes to Berlin, people tend to divide it from the rest of Germany. There is a sense that even though it’s the capital, it doesn‘t represent the country. Berlin is international, dirty and liberal.

However, as the capital of one of the wealthiest countries in Europe, it attracts young professionals and artists who look for new opportunities. They often try to find remedy from the fast paced competitive environment that Berlin has become. It is the land of promises for artists, young professionals and also for companies. What keeps Techno alive until this day is its ability to provide escapism - by entering a club with repetitive music where you can be yourself, without being judged or recorded by anyone. However, Techno is not for everyone, musicians and entertainment seekers alike.

This hardworking city of artists and others has so many opportunities that it would be unfair to concentrate only on its Techno scene, even though it is largely dominant. Music by its nature has a voyeuristic, escapist feeling. Rock shows give you the opportunity to sing along loudly with the band and jump into the mosh pits at the center of the scene, where you can expend all the energy that has built up during a long week. Jazz creates a variety of emotions, voyeurism combined with calmness and, at the same time, a glimpse of madness produced by musicians’ fast paced solos.

Furthermore, open mics and experimental scenes introduce new talents, alternative music genres and expressions. They also give the opportunity for individuals to find the courage to present their art. Finally, there are many places to dance alone, with friends, with costumes or entirely without clothes. Berlin needs time and an open mind to be appreciated and, as a friend said, Techno has become so cliche people will inevitably invent a different genre that fits the city as it is now.

SCHOKOLADEN

Mitte is so central that it would be difficult to imagine that a place like Schokoladen is located there. It is an underground venue that has a large diversity of events such as live performances consisting of various music genres, karaoke and queer nights. It opens every day at 7 pm and it gets crowded very quickly. At the door, there is a sweet lady that will greet you and will be willing to help you find a place to enjoy the band even if it’s overcrowded. The decoration is amazing and, regardless of the fact that it’s a brilliant live venue, it’s also an incredible bar in its own right. There is an entrance fee and the price fluctuates depending on the band or the time of attendance. The music of the night was with Jazz am Helmholtzplatz. Jazz as a genre is quite voyeuristic and the band brought up a variety of feelings during the night. At one point it was calm, then the solo part of every musician came and the tone became fast paced and intense. It is quite admirable how the band blends together but at the same time each individual is so unique. It certainly leaves a feeling of tranquility at the end of a busy day. After the show, it is worth it to stay in the bar for drinks, enjoy the music that the DJs are playing and play table football with your friends. Schokoladen is place that is worth visiting more than once - there are so many interesting events that it’s hard to pick the best one!

Beate Uwe is quite a unique club. It is located in a very central part of Berlin, at Schillingstraße. The music varies depending on the night. It is a place that gives you the feeling that anything and everything can happen when you walk in the door. There was a small drag show, followed by early 00’s electro music and, finally, Michael Jackson and Eminem! This means, by the end of the night, this is a place that everyone will end up dancing at! It is suitable for those who like electro, as well as other genres of music. The variety of people in the club was tremendous. There was voguing, synchronized choreographies and something that looked like a Japanese geisha dance. Some were dressed casually, others were wearing masks and others, almost nothing. The best way to describe it, is that there was a total lack of dress code, and this place did not bring out the type that is often associated with Berlin clubs. Another interesting fact is that while some people were dancing on the stage, there was a small room full of people singing karaoke. In conclusion, there is a feeling of ‘come as you are’, which is very liberating in a city where coolness often turns into hipster-pretentiousness.

LAKSMI BAR

Laksmi is a small bar, with a small stage, packed with big talent. It is located in Kreuzberg at Wrangelstraße. On Wednesdays, Laksmi offers open mic nights. Artists from various parts of the world come together to express themselves, discover new talent and make new friends. It is one of the friendliest bars you’ll find in Berlin. Upon entering the bar, you’ll hear people introducing themselves and expressing their admiration for each other’s music. Artists should arrive before the show starts and put their name down on the list. There are various kinds of performances - small acoustic bands, solo singers, poets and more. The music genres on display are often different as well. Country music, pop song covers and, generally, anyone who finds the courage to perform. Each artist has two songs/pieces and during the show silence from the audience is golden, since there are no microphones. Laksmi has an encouraging crowd, that sometimes even participates in the songs. Two young artists sang the cover of Stay by Rihanna and suddenly ten people sang along with the chorus, with surprising synchronization and harmony that led to smiles across the bar. Laksmi is truly a place for musicians and music lovers. One important tip is to be there around 7:30, in order to catch a nice spot and be able to enjoy the performances in comfort.

LOOPHOLE

Loophole is the embodiment of an experimental underground event space. It is located in Neukolln, at Boddinstraße, and there is no sign outside that indicates the bar’s existence. The only way to find it is to get help from google maps. When you arrive at the spot, the blue door is hardly noticeable, but this is the entrance to the underground Narnia. Loophole is separated into two areas - the bar and the music space that awaits behind thick black curtains. It has very cheap drinks, friendly staff, eye-catching decoration and big couches. There’s also a huge mask hanging from the ceiling, broken armchairs and a projector. The music scene is quite experimental, which means that it is not for everyone. However, it is truly refreshing to see that there is a place where young artists can perform their music without being judged, since the aim is to express yourself. There is a charm to it, which definitely comes from the fact that it doesn’t feel pretentious or uptight.

WILD AT HEART

Wild at Heart is a typically dark David Lynch film about lovers and, by way of tribute, a bar in Berlin. Rock fans can enjoy live performances from local and international bands. The bar is located in Kreuzberg at Wiener Straße, and it’s open from Wednesday to Saturday. It offers different performances every day, usually two or three bands. Normally Wild at Heart has an entrance fee, but on Wednesdays you can walk straight in. The decor is how traditional rock bars should be - tacky, dark, moody, with colorful lights. Moreover, the staff are very friendly, drinks are cheap and it has customers of all ages. It is important to note that in Berlin live music tends to start early. However, Wild at Heart is a place where performances kick-off at around 10 p.m. It is interesting how on one day the bar can offer a completely different music experience to the next. Also, when there are multiple bands on the same night, the genres of each band might differ from each other. For example, on the same night you could see ‘The Roxies’ and ‘Dirtshakes’. These bands were quite noticeably different. The first one is an indie rock band and the second a punk rock outfit. As soon as The Roxies stepped on stage the mood of the customers changed. The stage very quickly became full, the singer began his acting/dancing performance and, as a result, the chemistry of the band brought amazing vibes to the crowd. It was refreshing to see a band creating such a buzz - people were dancing, singing and smiling throughout their performance. On the contrary, a completely different energy and dynamic came from the Dirtshakes. Since punk is not dead, the band established the appropriate tone. The audience really enjoyed their performance - there was a lot of singing, jumping, moshing and, of course, a small attempt at crowd surfing. Overall the experience was very good, people really enjoyed both bands and, certainly, Wild at Heart is a place that rock lovers are going to appreciate in Berlin.

DESIGN PANOPTIKUM

Design Panoptikum is a museum like no other. This surreal collection of industrial objects is aimed to tantilise its visitors and invoke feelings of pure bemusement from anyone with the stomach to enter. Strikingly, this most unusual museum is nestled in the unlikely location of a quaint courtyard a stone’s throw away from St. Nicholas Church. In fact, visitors would not be blamed for walking right past it, if it wasn‘t for the plastic torso in one of its windows.

No better described than an odd-ball performance, prepare for a stellar introduction from your host and ‚collector of objects‘ Vlad Koornev. Upon entering, Vlad will treat each visitor will an electric description of his weird and wonderful array of discarded and scrap objects. In fact, this man, with his paper-pale complexion and Russian accent, is half of the peculiarity to be witnessed. Coupled with his unhinged ensemble of bizarre items, expect the unexpected.

Vlad focuses your attention on the uniqueness of his museum, „A regular museum is 100% about the museum,“ he says. „this one is 50% about the museum and 50% about the visitor“, as he emphasises the importance of personal interpretation and creativity. After his preface, it would be understandable to hesitate and question whatexactly - is waiting for you „in the basement“.

All of Vlad’s objects are carefully selected, with as much thought going into their arrangement as the items themselves. Trumpets pierce through the skulls of manikins, plastic infants float in jars, Nazi memorabilia lurk in corners; your periphery loaded with a new, strange assortment. With the mix of masks and subhuman creations, one wonders, who is the observer in this museum?

This is a totally unique experience to be felt in Berlin, as visitors will be left pondering the blurred lines between fantasy and reality. Design Panoptikum will be the perfect kick-start for your imagination to take on the eccentricities of life in this city. A live-action Black Mirror, this museum, and the strange inhabitants, are all designed to get ‘under your skin’. Nothing could shock you after this.

Usually, when you hear the words music and Berlin together, techno springs to mind. However, as it did three centuries ago, Berlin also has a lot to offer to the sonata and opera lovers, but in a better way now.

This year, the oldest opera house in the city, Staatsoper Unter den Linden, celebrates the 450th birthday of its resident orchestra, the Staatskapelle. April 4-12 - it will perform all 9 Beethoven symphonies in 4 concerts! A festival week STAATSOPER FÜR ALLE, September 5-12, will be highlighted by a gala in the main hall, a live concert on Bebelplatz, and an exhibition on the history of the orchestra. The February must-sees are a captivating opera Medea by Luigi Cherubini based on the ancient myth, sang in the French language with German and English surtitles; and Der Rosenkavalier, a Richard Strauss comedy farewell to the beautiful 18th century, performed in German with German and English surtitles.

A theatre turned concert hall, the Konzerthaus Berlin has all the visual features of a conventional 19th-century classical music venue. Yet this place broke the eternal mould of a traditional concert setting by placing the audience amid the orchestra. The unique series is called „Mittendrin - Right in the middle.“ The Konzerthaus went further with audience immersion and implemented 360° VR and AR experiences. These included the world‘s first virtual string quartet,

as well a virtual tour with a digital timeline of the building‘s architectural and artistic history, and an interactive sound map.

The internationally recognised orchestra, Berliner Philharmoniker, confidently keeps up with its technologically advanced peers. Its Digital Concert Hall enables anyone with access to the internet to discover multifaceted HD content, including more than 40 live performances every season, rare and exclusive concert records, interviews and documentaries. Live chamber music experiences are also available for free thanks to Lunchtime Concerts every Tuesday at 1 pm between September and June.

Classical music in Berlin is in the right hands, so techno is highly unlikely to pose any serious threat to it within the next three centuries!

Nadia Rodygina @speranza_pictures

On Route To Success or Off The Rails?

Lauren Dempsey @lauwwen96

One of Berlin’s transport companies, Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG), is trying to bring a more nuanced meaning to the term ‘underground culture’, as they nominate themselves as candidates to become a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The BVG is Berlin’s largest public transport company, operating the U-Bahn (underground), bus, tram and ferry transport but notably not the S-Bahn (commuter train), which is run by S-Bahn Berlin GmbH. The company put themselves forward in their latest marketing campaign to be considered alongside the Taj Mahal and Machu Picchu as a cultural institution worthy of global recognition and protection.

On 9th December 2019, a video was released on the company’s Youtube channel and shared across their social media platforms. Berliners, global citizens and UNESCO are addressed

and told that no other city in the world has changed as much as the German capital. The city reinvents itself every day, new trends come and go, and nothing has longevity. Nothing? Well according to the advertisement there is only one place where Berlin remains the same: the BVG.

Lasting less than 2 minutes, the video made a humorous attempt to persuade viewers to support their bid. A month since its premiere, the commercial has attracted over 7 million views. Posters have begun appearing in U-Bahn stations and on the side of buses. Customers are

encouraged to give their voice to the cause by voting online and already over 800,000 people have pledged their support.

The company is renowned for its sense of irony, leading many to question the candour of the advertisement. Despite their continual denial that the campaign is a joke (addressed in the frequently asked question section of their website, What the FAQ?!) how serious, or even realistic, is their application?

Ultimately the decision lies in the hands of UNESCO. Germany is home to 46 landmarks or areas of cultural importance, ranging from castles to cathedrals, old towns to modernist architecture. All landmarks or areas must meet at least one of the 10 criteria set out by UNESCO to qualify as a world heritage site. The BVG “exhibits an important interchange of human values, over a span of time, or within a cultural area of the world, on developments in architecture or technology...”, which is the second point on the lists of requirements. To understand the cultural and social importance of the BVG, it must be considered as a part of Berlin’s 20th century history.

Long before the BVG was founded, public transport formed the backbone of Berlin. The oldest

form being buses which first began operating in 1846. The first horse-drawn tram was established in June 1865 servicing Berlin and what was then the neighbouring town of Charlottenburg. This was the first of its kind in Germany. The concept proved popular and by 1871, there was enough demand to require expansion and new lines. However, as Berlin’s population increased due to industrialisation and urbanisation, this horse-driven transport was no longer a viable solution to meet the requirements. 1881 saw the opening of the world’s first electric tram that had commercial success in the suburb of Groß-Lichterfelde.

Despite this triumphant addition, transport in the city was insufficient. In early discussions regarding a solution to Berlin’s increasing traffic problems in the late 19th century, the idea of an elevated railway was preferred over an underground system in Berlin, due to worries over the suitability and stability of the ground. However, this proposal was not favourable in Charlottenburg, where an underground was more popular. It was ultimately agreed that a subsurface rail would be built. In February 1902, the very first U-Bahn ran on an overground viaduct between Warschauer Straße and Nollendorf. This route makes up part of today’s U1 line. In December of the same year the line was extended and this portion ran underground to Knie, Charlottenberg (now Ernst-Reuter-Platz).

The world’s first electric tram, pictured in 1882.

Expansion continued as Berlin grew and became a globally influential metropolis in the early twentieth century. The 1920s was a golden era in the Weimar Republic, especially Berlin, where the population jumped to almost 4 million. Phase 2, as it is called, of the construction of the U-Bahn system commenced, and focus was on connecting north and south Berlin. In 1926, Ernst Reuter, the City Councilor for Transportation, succeeded in implicating a one-tariff policy throughout the city, meaning one ticket was valid to use on all forms of transport, which remains today.

This was also the decade of the founding of the BVG. The company’s name is first documented in a letter written in 1929. This is one of the only documents that survived in the BVG’s archives following extensive bombing during WWII, so little information remains about the company’s founding. From this point on, Berlin’s trams, buses, ferries and underground were operated by the company.

In 1933 Adolf Hitler’s National Socialist Party came into power. They brought with them noticeable changes throughout the city, which were reflected in the transport lines. The national flag was erected in every station and stations were renamed; Reichskanzlerplatz became Adolf-Hitler-Platz in 1933 (now Theodor-Heuss-Platz). They had plans to continue expansion but there was no significant development.

During WWII, no disruption was experienced on these lines until 1943. Bombings from the Allied

forces caused damage and power cuts but there was no significant impact until early 1945. As the war neared its end and Berlin fell, all operations ceased by late April. The infrastructure of the network system was totally devastated by the war and the carriages that had survived were surrendered as reparations. 30% of all U-Bahn tunnels were flooded and many had collapsed. It did not take long, however, to revitalise the veins of Berlin. By late 1945, the majority was back up and running.

Although the transport lines were restored, this wasn’t a return to normality for the city. Berlin was divided politically, obtained a ‘Four Sector City’ status, split into West and East and surrounded entirely by the Soviet controlled German Democratic Republic. The East took responsibility for the S-Bahn, as agreed to by the West and the BVG was divided into BGV West and BVG East. Berlin became a potential battle ground as political tensions heated up and the U- and S-Bahn lines were used tactically during the Cold War years.

The Berlin Wall was built in 1961 by the East to prevent migration from East to West and cut off all trans-Berlin travel. Friedrichstraße became the terminus station between East and West. Some Western lines had to run through East Berlin as part of their line, such as the U6 and U8. The stations that had previously been open and accessible with the correct papers to East Berliners were now shut up and guarded by East German police. These stations became known as

The UBahn at Schlesisches Tor, around 1902.

ghost stations and some of the most notable ones were Potsdamer Platz, Stadtmitte and the U8 station at Alexanderplatz.

BVG services in the West saw an increase in usage as the government ran campaigns promoting the disuse of the S-Bahn with the slogan ‘Taking the S-Bahn Finances the Wall.’ The U-Bahn became the most important form of transport. In 1984 it was decided that the BVG would take control of the S-Bahn in the Western sectors.

The fall of the wall in 1989, was a monumental, global event. Berlin as a city was reunited, including its two different railways systems. The BVG ran as one entity again and the company no longer operated the S-Bahn in the Western sector. Ghost stations that had been abandoned for 30 years were reconstructed and reopened, reconnecting the people once again. Since reunification, Berlin’s transport has continued to expand, proving the timeless and resilient spirit of the company and its services.

The history of Berlin is preserved in memory and the tales from its unmatchable past, as well as on the walls of its famous U-Bahn stations. The underground stations all purposely have their own unique tiling patterns and colour schemes, to aid the visually impaired passengers to distinguish stations easily. The aesthetically pleasing designs have also played a part in making the stations themselves attractions for tourists who visit the city. U-Bahnhofs such as Herrmannplatz and Wittenbergplatz are

renowned for their architecture, which is unique and often reflects the styles of the buildings in the vicinity.

U-Bahnhof Magdelenenstraße, a former East German station, is decorated in wall paintings depicting the history of Berlin from the beginning of the Labour Movement, to the founding of the East German state. In 1995 it was proposed that the art would be covered with advertisements, but the move was prevented by the Berliner Senat culture department.

The station (Magdalenenstraße), with its remarkable, abstract depictions of history is an underground art gallery. Tourists can also visit the Stasi museum, which is located above the station in the headquarters of the former East German secret police department.

WWII depicted in U-Bahnhof Magdelenenstraße

Though it has proven itself as a historical institution within the city, people have been critical of the BVG’s candidacy as a World Heritage Site. Philipp Walulis, presenter and radio host, posted a video in response titled ‘Scheiß Produkt, geile Werbung’ (Shit product, cool marketing), which voiced a lot of peoples’ issue with the campaign; the BVG focuses more on their marketing than they do on their service. The company did address its customers dissatisfaction towards its services in the video, however it was done in an ironic manner and they offered no solutions to improve the issues.

Additionally, this is not the company’s first viral video. In 2015 they released a music video parody ‘Ist mir egal’ (I don’t care), in which they satirically commented on the weird behaviour that happens on the U-Bahn, bus and tram. Kazim Akboga, a singer and comedian, poses as a ticket inspector and sings about the strange actions of the customers, but he doesn’t care what they do if they have a ticket. This video achieved over 16 million views. The BVG are no strangers to Internet superstardom or ironic self-awareness. Their customers are aware of their highly entertaining advertisements, but their unsatisfactory services may damage their chances, as they need public support behind their campaign.

When evaluating the application of a World Heritage Site, the past and present are often taken into consideration, but with the BVG its potential future impact could secure it a place on the UNESCO list. 2019 saw the rise of environmental protests and growing concerns over the climate crisis facing humanity today. With population expected to grow steadily in the city, and increasing number of tourists over the last few years, Berlin is faced with maintaining efficient transportation for everyone in the city The protection and celebration of greener and more sustainable modes of transport aren’t only a novel idea to be included by UNESCO, but rather an urgent and serious matter that could help slow down climate change.

When considering the impact that the BVG has had on the city, maybe the company isn’t completely crazy in applying to UNESCO. Berlin’s underground, however, is not the oldest in the world or even the most famous for its beauty. So, shouldn’t London’s Tube or Paris’ metro be nominated? The BVG, themselves, had an elegant and typical Berliner response to this: ‘Nö’.

SCHWARZFAHREN: WORTH THE RISK?

Nadia Rodygina @speranza_pictures

Berliners using the U-Bahn will certainly have at least once witnessed the notorious BVG ticket inspectors in action. Two or more plain-clothed, heavily-built males silently enter a carriage. They wait for the doors to close and then cold-bloodedly disclose their mission - check the Fahrausweis, to catch fare dodgers, aka Schwarzfahrer.

From 10 million passengers inspected in 2018, 300 thousand were free riders, which is 2% less than in 2017. BVG concluded that the increased number of controllers makes people increasingly disciplined, and as a result they assigned ten more employees a day, making it 100.

However, the company suffers a yearly loss of €20 million from those who steal rides. Importantly, German law views deliberate ticket dodging as a crime, and in certain cases it can be punished with a prison sentence of up to one year.

If a passenger forgets a personalized pass at home, it is possible to fill in an online form, or present the ticket at the company’s customer service centres within a week. A €7 processing fee is sadly unavoidable, though

In all other cases, the BVG infantry shows no mercy and issues a receipt of €60, including the transaction number, which is payable within 14 days.

You can choose how you wish to settle it - from an on-site payment (must be a card payment only), a visit to a BVG Kundenzentrum, a oneoff bank transfer, or by €10 monthly instalments.

On the other hand, always having a ticket makes life in Berlin a lot easier. BVG Tickets app is probably the best solution for modern citizens. It has all kinds of cards, including a monthly one and an annual subscription for the real Berliners, allowing you to save up to €280. The app also conveniently reminds you to renew your subscription; it is well-designed and easy to use.

So instead of nervously looking around for the inspectors and planning your escape trajectory, get yourself a ticket, and enjoy the ride.

STAND-UP COMEDY IN BERLIN

Nadia Rodygina @speranza_pictures

WHERE DOES STAND-UP COME FROM?

For decades stand-up comedy has been one of the most popular entertainments in the world. It has roots in such traditional 19th-century genres as music hall and variety show. Wikipedia says stand-up is the „freest form of comedy writing,“ but it hasn‘t always been so.

ARE THERE INTERESTING STORIES FROM THE PAST? past?

In the UK, until 1968, all comedy acts were censored. performers strictly had to follow the edited script on stage. In 1972 a famous stand-up comedian

George Carlin was arrested for obscenity after performing his monologue „Seven Words You Can Never Say on Television.“

Gradually, the pressure on the industry started to ease, and the boundaries of acceptability extended. So much so that 10 years later another legend, Richard Prior, did not only publically touch upon his drug addiction in his concert „Richard Pryor: Live on the Sunset Strip“, but also saw it become the highest-grossing stand-up comedy film.

This record lasted till 1987 and was beaten by Eddie Murphy‘s „Raw“ whichmade an unprecedented $50.5 million. The show contained the four-letter word 223 times.

HOW ARE THINGS TODAY?

Now in 2020, stand-up is still hugely popular, with concerts and festivals all over the world, including the German capital. Full of foreign residents and tourists, Berlin boasts a wide choice of English comedy shows and established communities. Only in January, there are 157 scheduled events in town, with up to 10 every night.

WHICH ARE WORTH SEEING?

Likely the most famous and longest-running English comedy night in Berlin is „We Are Not Gemüsed.“ It was established in 2012 by comedians Caroline Clifford and Paul Salamone. Every Tuesday at 8.30 pm, locals and visitors flock to the Sameheads bar in Neukölln to see the seasoned comedians presenting fresh, excellent material.

Another beloved concert for the fans of classic stand-up is the „Cosmic Comedy Club“ in Mitte. Hosted at the 1820 bar, with free vegetarian and vegan pizza. On Fridays and Saturdays, selected comedians showcase themselves on stage. Mondays and Thursdays, there are open mics, occasionally with beginners.

In Kreuzberg, you can find a terrific event with curated comedians, and an intriguing namethe „Glory Hole Comedy“ at Vogel bar. Usually, they touch upon universal topics like relationships, dating, cultural differences, the life of an expat in Berlin, sometimes with dark undertones.

The show is produced and hosted by Anna Beros, a kindergarten teacher by day and a stand-up comedian by night. Even though Anna calls herself „a reluctant Aussie,“ she hasn‘t stood aside while far away, as her country was suffering from the devastating bushfires.

In collaboration with the Australian comedians and musicians in Berlin, Beros organised a benefit concert and donated all the raised funds to the charities at home. This great initiative proves that humor can be a powerful tool for solving real problems and making a difference.

ANY SPECIFIC SHOWS?

The local comedy scene would be incomplete without genuinely dark humor. For dead baby jokes and other extremes, there is one of a kind the „Berlin Offensive“ at Z-Bar in Mitte. Since 2017 professional comedians make people both laugh and squirm, so a free shot would be handy.

The exact opposite is a show designed specifically for parents and their young children. It is called „Stand-up you Baby!“ and is held the last Tuesday of every month from 11 am to 1 pm at a baby-friendly Milchbart Kindercafe in Prenzlauer Berg. Some of the comedians are parents; however, they all bring adult content. Fun fact - one of the performers is a co-founder of the „Berlin Offensive.“

Another original art form in Berlin is a fusion of comedy and poetry. The only show of this kind is Neukölln‘s „On Fire,“ and it is supposed to make people laugh and cry at the same time.

IS THERE ONLY STAND-UP?

It is amazing how vibrant and inventive Berlin‘s stand-up scene is. There is so much more to it than just good old rehearsed acts.

One of the peculiar formats is a comedy improv, where teams of actors compete, taking audience suggestions and making up hilarious situations and characters on the spot. As a result, spectators always get a unique, fully-improvised performance that they can influence directly.

One of the great improv teams is „ComedyShorts.“ They do „Friday Night Improv“ at the Comedy Cafe Berlin in Neukölln and „Saturday Night Improv“ at the 800A bar in Wedding or at Belushi‘s in Mitte. On the „CCB Improv Jam,“ anyone can join the actors and have fun on stage in a relaxed atmosphere. The hosts change every week, so the performance remains fresh and unpredictable.

WOW, IMPROV IS SO BROAD!

Improv seems to be embracing every possible format of entertainment, even late-night shows. Usually, on TV, they are all well-scripted, but „The Late-ish Show!“ created at CCB is far beyond that. This is a fully-improvised comedy with a wildly twisting plot. The improv wave has also naturally taken music under its umbrella. In 2017, Berlin‘s first musical improv group, „Rollercoasters“ was formed. All it takes to keep this insane thing going are audience suggestions and a great mood.

IS THE „COMEDY CAFE BERLIN“ SPECIAL?

Comedy Cafe Berlin (CCB), the temple of Berlin‘s comedy, is a soundproof 157-meter square theater with 70 seats. It is the first international, alternative comedy stage in the city that hosts most of the local comedy events.

It is also a place where stand-up and improv regularly clash. On a Saturday night show called „Stand Up vs. Improv,“ 2 teams try to sound convincing and hilarious while addressing random topics displayed on a screen behind them.

ARE THERE ANY OTHER EXCITING LOCATIONS?

Those who look for outdoor entertainment should consider „Comedy Wal(l)ks,“ a guided tour around the East Side Gallery, and along the River Spree. Groups are led by an experienced comedian with dark humour, who kindly asks sensitive people to abstain from taking the tour.

High-quality comedy has spread all across this city, including on the water. Every Monday from 8.30 pm, screams of laughter are heard on the river Spree from the Floating Lounge boat. It means „Laughing Spree“ is in full flow. This unique show features mature local comedians, as well as guests and first-timers.

WE DISEMBARK AND DISCOVER MORE

Back on land, there is another remarkable kind of comedy - storytelling. It is longer than a stand-up, but no less striking. Especially because all the stories are true and told first-hand.

This genre is not yet so heavily marketed in Berlin as improv. Still, there are already two notable events. The first one is an open mic „Four Eyes“ at a cozy restaurant TZOM in Kreuzberg. Every time it brings together 6 to 8 storytellers. The second one, „The Yarn,“ is a showcase by experienced presenters, held every 1st Saturday of the month at CCB.

Some stories become news, and they need to be laughed at too. This is now possible thanks to the „Berlin News Quiz,“ where 4 talented comedians compete to give the brightest and most informed perspective of the past month‘s news.

Apart from entertaining, humour can also serve as a remedy in challenging situations. Specialists from „Comedy Therapy“ will carefully review every case and give a piece of valuable, hilarious advice. The group appointments are every Tuesday atathe Wall Comedy Club in Friedrichshain.

WHAT ABOUT DIVERSITY IN BERLIN‘S COMEDY SCENE?

Despite the multitude of genres, the world of comedy has always been a man‘s world. Fortunately, Berlin is a unique city where everyone is welcome and free to create and achieve.

On the 2nd Sunday of every month at CCB, a group of the best female improvisers presents their hilarious live talk show „It‘s That Time of the Month!“. While the funniest women of colour bring their „Woke Panties“ event to Kleinod bar and commit to leaving everyone in stitches.

Women, trans-women, and non-binaries are encouraged to shrug off doubts and fears, to come and perform, or sit back and watch the „Shows before Bros“ at Be‘kech bar in Wedding.

For a night of dangerously enchanting comedy by charismatic and unstoppable women fighting against patriarchy, visit „WITCH HUNT.“ The next sabbath is on the 25th of January at CCB.

And finally, the potential champion of diversity and inclusion in Berlin‘s stand-up scene - the open mic „SAUCE“ founded and hosted by a comedian Josie Parkinson. She prioritizes women, LGBTQIA+, trans*, non-binary, disabled, non-white, or any mix of those. Straight white men can still perform at „SAUCE,“ though. It is a cool place where no offence is meant to others.

A BIT OF A METAPHOR AT THE END

Undoubtedly, the current state of stand-up comedy in Berlin can be described as blooming. It is indeed like a cherry tree, one with flowers of all imaginable colours and dozens of curvy branches finding their way to the light. Most importantly, this tree feels so good because it grows in the soil of freedom.

It’s winter. Small groups of people gather together around tables in this dimly lit dive bar. Old furniture, a disco ball, lingering cigarette smoke and a battered in window held together by tapeTRAVOLTA exudes gritty Berlin cool.

The only nod to John Travolta himself is a small paper mask which hangs above the bar; it’s joined by a fake boar’s head and - bizarrelyseveral pictures of Bob Ross.

TRAVOLTA’s eccentricity mirrors the characters that dip in and out of this Berlin melting pot every Tuesday evening on the corner of Wiener Straße, Kreuzberg. Everyone here has one common interest, meeting up.

This particular German-English language exchange group is around 12 years old and has run from TRAVOLTA for 10. For the last 5 years it has been hosted by Xuedi, a Hamburg man

with a talent for socialising. Xuedi spends his evenings weaving between tables, taking the time to talk to each person who comes along. For him, and for everyone else in the group, it’s the wide variety of people who join this meetup from all over the world that makes it so special. You can feel the warmth radiating from people as they talk, laugh, smile - many coming as strangers but leaving, as friends.

Really, it’s not the language we speak that binds us; but rather our innate need for connection. Regardless of your background or beliefs you’ll be welcomed to TRAVOLTA with open arms. That’s what meetups are all about, connecting people and giving them a space to call their own.

For many people in Berlin, that place is TRAVOLTA. meetup.com

MONSTER RONSONS ICHIBAN KARAOKE

Lauren Dempsey @lauwwen96

When the cold weather creeps in over Berlin and Mauerpark’s famous ‘Bearpit Karaoke’ must pack up for the winter, fear not! Monster Ronson’s Ichinban Karaoke Bar serves all your entertainment needs.

A cult favourite, the bar is open 7 days a week until late to cater for anyone brave enough to take to the stage. By anyone, that really means anyone; the quirkier, the better. One can witness a screamo performance of ‘B.Y.O.B’ by a young American girl in a LBD, a dapper young man channelling his inner Frank Sinatra with a rendition of ‘New York, New York,’ and a lady who let the cocktails take over as she belted out ‘A Whole New World’, a Disney classic. (This is not hypothetical, FYI.) Nights are often hosted by sassy drag queens who aren’t afraid of the boisterous crowd.

If you’re too shy, or not yet drunk enough, to sing for the crowds, they also offer booths of various sizes to accommodate groups for more intimate performances. Large booths for 12-16 people can be booked in advance, or smaller ones suitable for 6 people are available on the night, costing 16€ per hour. On Sundays these booths are half price and on Mondays open to all. And don’t worry, they’re completely soundproof.

Drinks are reasonably priced and served by friendly staff, who are clearly living their best lives. Their relaxed vibes, however, can lead to long waits of 5 to 10 minutes in the queue when busy.

A full list of events and songs available can be found online and entry costs 5€. Even if you’re reluctant to sing, you are guaranteed to be swept up in the shameless shenanigans.

SPÄTIS: SHOP AROUND THE CLOCK

Bethan Reynolds @bluebellsandbuttons

On the way to meet friends? Grab a beer from the späti. Coming home from a night out? There’s a nightcap calling your name from the späti. Need to wind down after work? 24 hours a day, your beer (or something stronger) is available from a späti. Want to meet new people in your community or have a cheap evening out, fancy an afternoon snack and a cup of coffee, maybe you’ve run out of toilet paper or toothpaste? From pet food to DHL postal service, you’ve guessed it … head to the Späti!

If you’ve never visited Berlin before you’d be forgiven for wondering what a Späti could be, but by now you’ve probably guessed that it’s a big part of Berlin life. Spätkauf’s (meaning ‘late purchase’), are small kiosk like shops dotted all over the city. Drinking is legal on the streets of Berlin and no matter what time of day it is you‘re bound to see a Berliner walking by with an ‘unterwegs bier’ from the späti in hand. With most beers well under €2 it‘s easy to see why.

Like snowflakes, no two späti‘s are the same. Some are smaller than hobbit houses, cluttered cubby holes crammed from floor to ceiling with a bizarre array of goods. The vast majority have tables and chairs outside, encouraging customers to take a break from the hustle and bustle of Berlin life and to sit for a moment and watch the rest of the world rush by. Then, there are the super späti’s offering toilets and tables inside, a handful with beer on tap, and one called Drink Drunk that even brews its own brand of beer!

There are over 900 Späti’s in the city, so wherever you go you’ll be sure to come away with an interesting story to tell and a cheap beer in your hand!

DON OF KEBABS

Currywurst, The East Side Gallery, Ampelmann and The Brandenburg Gate - just a few of the things that come to mind when you think of Berlin … maybe Doner kebab doesn’t make the list; but it definitely should.

Here in the largest Turkish community outside of Turkey herself, the Doner kebab has become a staple of the city. While the origin and inventor continue to be disputed, many Berliners are adamant that it was indeed created in the German Capital.

Kadir Numan is widely known as the man who started the craze for these handheld snacks when he began selling them from his stall at the Zoologischer Garten Railway station in 1972. Flatbreads stuffed with tender kebab meat, onions and salad proved an instant hit.

From that moment onward the business of Doner kebabs has boomed. Berlin alone is currently home to over 1,000 Kebab shops across the city. As the world moves progressively forward towards healthier food choices, Doner kebabs have kept up with the trend, with many shops packing the pita pockets full of fresh and creative salads. Vegan and vegetarian options have also joined the traditional rotisserie meat on menus across town.

Since the 1970’s the smell of garlic, grilled meat and spices has wafted through the bustling streets of Berlin and throughout the rest of Germany. It seems amazing that one man and his small stall paved the way for thousands of shops, careers and a flourishing economy.

THE

Bethan Reynolds @bluebellsandbuttons

THREE OUTSTANDING PIZZERIAS THAT CONQUERED BERLIN

Nadia Rodygina @speranza_pictures

Italians are currently the third biggest foreign-born population in Berlin. This fact might explain the abundance of excellent pizzerias in the city.

Moabit‘s gem hidden in the rows of Arminius Market Hall is called Mangiare Berlin. Sardinian-born Alessandro Piras opened it in September 2019. Experienced in supplying fresh food from Italy, he masterfully selects the best bio ingredients for the restaurant. His irreplaceable partner and top-notch chef, Jonathan Atzeni, creates amazing pizza following his original recipe. Thanks to the highest quality flour and customised dough technology, the meal is easily digestible and light on the stomach. That follows Mangiare‘s principal mission - to provide everyone with the healthiest version of the universally acclaimed Italian speciality.

Since 2014, the district of Wedding is privileged to have high-quality pizza nearby at a unique place called Stranero. Former pizzeria co-workers Alejandro Pérez from Venezuela, and Miguel Perra from Italy, were united by friendship and the dream of doing things better at their own restaurant. Among the 17 classic pizzas, Quattro Formaggi with a rich blend of four kinds of cheese would be the top suggestion. From their speciality list, I prefer Imma - with sausage, red onion, potatoes and provolone, a mild cheese with a salty nut note. A simple, minimalistic interior and a clearly-designed menu reflect the founders‘ philosophy - to focus on what matters. That means a good pizza made according to Alejandro‘s mindfully crafted recipes and, of course, pleasant company. Stranero embodies a vibrant mix of cultures and welcomes everyone.

Schöneberg is lucky to have Malafemmena - „a bad girl.“ It proudly positions itself as an ambassador for the real Neapolitan pizza culture in Berlin. All the pizzaiolos come from Napoli, the city that conceived of the traditions passed down through the generations. A must-try pizza is the mortadella and burrata. Its ingredients are artfully combined - mozzarella on the base, thinnest slices of pale pink, delicately-flavoured sausage mortadella, a big round ball of burrata cheesesolid on the surface but soft and creamy inside, and fresh basil on top. That is not their signature pizza, but happy customers frequently mention it in their reviews. The place is seemingly always full - booking a table is strongly recommended.

Markthalle Neun (Market Hall Nine) is the goto place, year-round to sample small dishes of the best flavours from around the globe. Talk about having the world in the palm of your hand! Located in a market hall in Kreuzberg, the bustling spot is open Monday to Saturday with permanent shops and fresh produce markets. It’s most famous for its Street Food Nights on a Thursday, from 5pm to 10pm.

photobooth and an embellished tram sticking out of the wall, the main attraction is undoubtably the food.

From cannoli to dumplings, Portuguese pastries to artisan ice creams, the options are endless. A quick walk from the French crêpe truck where a charming man greets you with a ‘Bonjour’ to the next aisle where you are asked ‘¿Qué tal?’ by the guys at the taco stall, shows the beauty and multiculturalism celebrated and enjoyed here.

There’s almost too much to choose from, so a lap or two is not only advisable but necessary. Benches are set up around the place if you wish to enjoy your food in comfort, but when busy they can be hard to come by. Wine and beer bars are found on almost every corner. You could go for a quick bite to eat or spend the whole evening exploring the global gastro.

The hall was first opened in 1891, one of 14 such markets, and managed to survive the bombings of WWII. Protected from the harsh Berlin cold by the high-ceilinged architecture, street vendors and food lovers can enjoy the atmosphere of a buzzing food festival with over head lights and quirky features. Despite décor such as a novel

No matter what you’re craving or your dietary requirements, it’s impossible not to find something you’ll love.

MARKTHALLE 9: STREET FOOD WHATEVER THE WEATHER

Lauren Dempsey @lauwwen96

TREETOP TRAVEL JOURNALISM

Treetop Travel Journalism runs monthly travel writing and journalistic magazine projects in Berlin. As a team of 5-10 people we research topics, people and places. We then head out across the city to investigate. The team writes, edits and designs a magazine, as well as taking photos along the way. Our projects also include unique street art workshops, German language classes and custom tours of Berlin.

‚Techno is noT for everyone‘ is our January 2020 magazine.

Acknowledgements

Graphic Design mentor

Ljuba Bersudskaja

Handsome front page model

Eddie Zacharias

Interviews

Paul Hockenos

Stefanie McAllister

Yvonne and Illias

Lars Deike

Roland Muller-Flashar

Alessandro Piras

Alejandro Pérez

Miguel Perra

Anna Beros

Street art workshop hosts

Ale (@sensoale) and Stevie

Al

Hike and guided meditation leader

Alexandra (@freshairpinkcheeks)

Language classes

Deniz (hallo@feinsprecher.net)

Work Space

tuesday coworking

Treetop Travel Journalism (soon)

A very special thank you on behalf of this month‘s team to the wonderful project leader Will / Billy Barber.

TREETOP TRAVEL JOURNALISM

JANUARY 2020