ts secrets Real Life Ordeal: “I did a web check-in 24 hours before my flight. But at the airport, they read me a shocking visa rule.”
`80
Know before you go! MARCH-APRIL 2014
UNVEILED!
The Med’s Shy Beauty:
CYPRUS A Bite of the Balkans
8-page special from our Serbia correspondent
How to see the Andamans at last, a clear guide
Peru’s Peculiar FLOATING Village
on the bosom of the Amazon
Star Treat! A RECIPE BY JOHN ABRAHAM
COVER STORY:
TRAVEL AS UNUSUAL
Meet 4 quirky travellers inside
+ India’s best camping sites + How to sketch your travels + Seriously helpful haggling tips
Travel Secrets is a proud member of OTOAI
The Outbound Tour Operators Association of India (OTOAI) is a national, not-for-profit organisation comprising India’s outbound tour operators and travel agents as its members. Formed in December 2011, the association has taken rapid strides in bringing to light the vital issues that travel agents in India face. Travel Secrets magazine is privileged to be part of this dynamic family.
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TRAVEL TENSION-FREE With a little help from Mother Nature
T ravel is wonderful, no doubt. But it comes with its share of
hassles: airport delays, lost baggage, poor service…the list goes on and on. Our in-built defence system deals with stress by releasing several antioxidant substances. One of the most powerful among these is an enzyme called SOD (Super Oxide Dismutase), which neutralises harmful free radicals. During stress, we are able to produce upto 35% more SOD without harming the system. But when a situation snowballs into a crisis, these SOD levels are simply not enough. The result can be anything from dizziness to cardiac arrest. That’s where Amrit Kalash steps in. A potent combination of 44 rare herbs and fruits, Amrit has now been declared the world’s best-known full-spectrum antioxidant. Research conducted at renowned institutes and universities worldwide has established that Amrit helps the body produce upto 213% more SOD (Super Oxide Dysmutase), without causing any extra load on the system. In simpler terms, it improves our capacity to fight stress substantially and safely. Amrit Kalash helps your frown dissolves into a smile, and your tense nerves relax. You begin to hum inside, and that’s how a good travel experience should be. Take Amrit Kalash. Leave your tensions behind.
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41 4  Travel Secrets March-April 2014
contents March-April 2014
11. LUST LIST The world’s dreamiest flower fields, in pictures
26
26. BLACK BOOK Our picks of the best blogs, books, movies and more—for all you travel-happy types 31. COVER STORY Quirky Travellers: meet four who give a new meaning to ‘offbeat’ 41. CYPRUS Experience the allure of Aphrodite’s isle 54 WRITING IN THE OPEN AIR WITH ERIC MAISEL A Travel Secrets exclusive by America’s creative writing guru 62. THE ANDAMANS Your guide to planning the perfect holiday there 70. THE FLOATING VILLAGE OF PERU “Curioser and curiouser,” as Alice in Wonderland would have said
54 90
74. RESTAURANT REVIEWS The hottest new tables in Delhi and Mumbai—tasted 76. BALKAN CUISINE Introducing the exotic flavours of Serbia and its surroundings 90. STRAWBERRIES ON A ROLL A luscious recipe, specially for you
March-April 2014 Travel Secrets 5
ts secrets Know before you go!
Publisher & Editor: Shubhra Krishan Creative Consultant Mamta Sharma Design Director: Vijay Rana Assistant Editor: Rakhi Jerly Web Editor: Rajeev Gupta Correspondents: Delhi: Harshvardhan, Chhavi Doonga, Vikalp Dubey, Prerna Madan Mumbai: Sachin Krishn, Shruti Mahajan, Sarita Santoshini Chennai: Cheshta Malik Editorial Interns: Megha Uppal, Aarohi Roy Photo Editor & Ad Coordinator: Nitin Srivastava, Mobile: +91 9958383358 Illustrator: Nobu Grinewich-Yonashiro Creative Support: Madhu Rana, Goda Devi Accounts Associates: Devatma & Company Published From: 991 Sector A Pocket C Vasant Kunj, New Delhi 110070 Contact: travelsecretsmag@gmail.com Subscription inquiries: travelsecretsindia@gmail.com Printed at: Nikhil Offset, DSIDC Shed No. 223, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase I, New Delhi 110020 DISCLAIMER: The views expressed in the magazine are those of the contributors and do not necessarily reflect those of the editors or publishers.
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We are blogging on travelsecretsmag.wordpress.com
Lots more secrets there!
I want to go on a gourmet tour of Japan. Which local dishes should I try? Bern, CAPITAL OF Switzerland: Ho-hum or Happening? Why is Niagara Falls, Canada called the Billion Dollar City? Like us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/travelsecretsmag Follow us on Twitter @ secrets_travel Subscribe to us on: Magzter.com
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Do Get Ideas! We’ve Got Zillions In Here A recent study shows that the highest spike in happiness comes during the planning stage of a vacation, as people enjoy the sense of anticipation. If that is true, we at Travel Secrets are surely in danger of crossing the “heights-of-happy” mark? We or someone around us is always travelling, or just back from somewhere stunning. So, we get to enjoy a lot of breathless—okay, sometimes exaggerated—stories, lovely photos and irresistible ideas. (For the next issue, we’re considering “How to Disappear.” Seriously.) Meanwhile, I cannot wait for you to turn the pages and delve into this issue. It never fails to amaze me how our chaotic edit meets manage to yield such a rich crop of content in the space of 30-odd days. Wasn’t it just yesterday that I wrote to our Serbia correspondent Anna Rostokina, wondering if she could tell us how they eat in her part of the world? Sink your teeth into her sumptuous story, and you’ll know why I seem a bit dizzy with joy. My other favourites in this issue (deep breath!): Ted GrinewichYonashiro’s San Francisco sojourn, pointing us to the city’s best sourdough bakery and cathedral-like forest. Kristen Cashman’s account of an amazing Amazonian village that floats! Candace Rose Rardon’s beautifully illustrated story of how to sketch your travels. Ramit Mehta’s Andaman adventures, which make not having been there seem like a sin. Speaking of islands, I recently had a rocking seaside trip to Cyprus. My account of the trip might seem a bit high on hyperbole, but truly, the five days on this quiet, sunlit island were like balm for the soul. Plus I got to bask in the glory of having been somewhere nice and offbeat. Offbeat, did I say? Wait till you meet this young fellow who travels without any baggage. Rickshaws are the preferred mode of long-haul transport for yet another. And then there is the lady who enjoys nothing more than a day at a dungeon and a twilight trip to a haunted house. Meet all these fascinating people in our Cover Story: admire, enjoy, be inspired! Safe travels, and happy times!
Shubhra Krishan, Publisher & Editor March-April 2014 Travel Secrets 9
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We hear you! Thank you, readers, for your kind words and constructive criticism. They put us on Cloud 9 and keep us on our toes. Congratulations to our Star Letter winner.
Just though to drop in a line to express that the new logo looks very nice :) It’s catchy and youthful. - Pranav Kukreti, Delhi I chanced to see your Jan-Feb issue on a newsstand and enjoyed it thoroughly. It is at par with any of the better known travel magazines in the market. I wish to subscribe to the same. To let you know, I already subscribe to Outlook Traveller, Discover India, Nat Geo Traveller, Lonely Planet India, etc - Narendrakumar Manroa, Mumbai Love the new look. It is so fresh and colourful and full of surprises. Never, ever standardise your look and feel. Surprises are the reason readers can’t wait until they get the next issue. It
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10 Travel Secrets March-April 2014
is inspiring and witty with useful information and you can’t compare it with a “traditional” travel magazine. I like your style! Love the recipes. This magazine does not stay on the surface, it dives right in and takes you to the heart of a country/city. - Mariël van den Donk, Holland Well done. This is smashing. Congratulations:) New year, new start. Fabulous! -Gunjan Ahlawat, Delhi Your new look is looking very good :) - Ajay Jain, Delhi It truly looks superb! Congratulations. - Shoba Mohan, Delhi
changes made are very impressive. It is not easy to sustain a small business against tough and big competition but seeing Travel Secrets makes me think it can be done if one has the passion and willpower. Carry on the good work.. - Monal Misra, Faridabad
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The new expert columns are very useful. But I would like to see more information on the practical aspects of travelling to Indian cities and towns. We lack infrastructure, so this guidance is very essential for us. Do you accept articles from people other than your team reporters? - Madhu R, Delhi
Helllo! I stumbled upon a copy of Travel Secrets at Cafe Delhi Heights in DLF Promenade and a whole bunch of us sat and read it cover to cover! It looks and reads great! Yayyy to you! - Shruti Kothari Tomar, Delhi
Editor’s Note: We have taken note of your suggestion, and promise to include more solid information on the places we cover within India. And yes, you can write to us on travelsecretsmag@gmail.com with your story ideas. We like to hear fresh voices!
Your story on life-changing journeys was beautiful and in depth. I have been following the magazine for some time now and find that the new
The change in your logo has made all the difference. It is fresh, zippy and very attractive. A sure pick-me-up. - Ravish Dua, Pune
ts secrets Know before you go!
LUST LIST
THE WORLD’S DREAMIEST FLOWER FIELDS
A picture is worth a thousand words, and when you turn the page, you will find that it is also worth a million sighs...
March-April 2014 Travel Secrets 11
The Lovely Lavender Fields of France Lavender is a time-tested balm for frayed nerves, so stepping into a field full of them is like soaking in a month’s worth of serenity. A whiff of the delicate scent, an eyeful of the subtle hue, and a touch of the soft texture...works like an outdoor spa! Sometimes, the lavender fields are surrounded by wheat fields that harvest at the same time, creating a sensational visual effect. The essence of the flower yields healing homemade oils, handmade soaps and natural scents created in neighbouring farms and cottages.
12  Travel Secrets March-April 2014
lustlist
March-April 2014 Travel Secrets  13
The Dazzling Daffodils of the Cotswolds Softening the harshness of British winters, “a host of golden daffodils” greet you in the Cotswolds. The trumpet-shaped flowers herald the onset of spring. Wander, Wordsworth-like, “lonely as a cloud,” until you chance upon these brilliant beauties. So what if the cold winds are piercing your bones; the budding blossoms are sure to warm your heart. Standing amid the golden yellows and clear whites, it’s easy to picture yourself in your favourite summer dress and flip flops. So rent a cottage by a daffodil garden and let English countryside bless you with scented serenity. 14 Travel Secrets March-April 2014
lustlist
March-April 2014 Travel Secrets  15
The Romantic Ranunculus of California Quick, blink; or the exploding colours might just blind you! Every year, spring brings to California its most vibrant trophy—Ranunculus. Over 50 acres of land stretch out like a colour palette in the flower fields of Carlsbad, California. Overlooking the blue Pacific, the field invites you to spend an entire day with picnic baskets, bicycles and cameras. If you are lucky, you might land up on a day when local entertainers are performing here, adding more colour to the proceedings! Spend a day here and dreams of the ranunculus will stay with you all year, only to pull you back next spring.
16  Travel Secrets March-April 2014
lustlist
March-April 2014 Travel Secrets  17
Life .
>>Real.
Rohini Sharma was flying to Boston on a valid Indian passport and a valid US visa. She did Goodbyes were said, and she reached IGI airport. That’s when the shocks began to hit…
S
aturday morning, January 11, 2014, brought with it not mentioned? But no one was willing to answer my questions. the familiar mixed bag of heavy emotions that comes Helpless, I reloaded the bags on to the cart. The porter had with leaving one home for another. I had been on a disappeared by then. I went back and forth, pushing the two visit to Delhi, and after a feel-good time with family, carts and making frantic phone calls to my husband. I was it was time to head back to Boston, where I live. embarrassed for not checking the rules of flying, but finally made Our goodbyes were said, boarding passes printed, and seats peace with the situation and waited for my sister and brother-inchosen for our journey back from Delhi to Boston. My six-yearlaw to pick us up. When they called saying they were pulling up old daughter Aadya and I reached New Delhi’s IGI airport three in front of the terminal, Aadya and I started pushing the carts hours in advance, feeling lucky that there would be no fogone more time toward the Exit. related delays. Our bags were loaded, all four suitcases piled one That was the beginning of the second ordeal of the morning. top of the other. A porter helped us get though the check-in line The guard at the gate wouldn’t let us exit the terminal without and we are all set. a signed document from the airline staff showing refusal to The bags were getting weighed, tags being printed, boarding travel. Huffing and puffing, I pushed both the carts back to the passes checked when the girl behind counter to get this piece of paper, the Lufthansa counter asked for my and my heart sank for the nth time visa. I showed her my valid visa for when I got there. Not a single blue the United States. She kept shuffling how and why did the dress employee was in sight. They through the pages of my passport and airline let me do online had vanished! The check-in counter finally dropped a bombshell: “Where boarding 24 hours in had been taken over by staff in red is your Schengen visa?,” she asked. outfits. The blue crew, I was told, had The next thing I knew, our suitcases advance? When the moved to the Departure gate, where were being pulled off the belt, tags passport information is they were assisting the passengers removed. The reason: a Schengen visa entered, why is the visa boarding the flight to Munich. is mandatory if you hold an Indian Now I was furious at their lack of passport and have two stopovers in information in some professionalism. They knew the rules Europe, since the two flights within form not mentioned? and regulations of the airport, so why that continent are considered to be hadn’t they given me the note to exit domestic flights! Our flight route was when they gave us our passports and Delhi-Munich-Zurich-Boston, so I bags back? We shuttled from one information desk to the other could not be allowed to fly. for 30 minutes, getting the same answer, “The staff will be back I was shocked, angry, frustrated and flustered all at the same in an hour after the flight departs so you will have to wait.” time. The supervisor was called since I was the second case in Lost and on the brink of breakdown, I stood in the middle the same situation that morning. Arguments were futile. All I of the terminal with two sliding doors on either side. One for got was a curt reply, “You should have checked on the website: Immigration and Security, the other marked Exit. I was not the rule is clearly stated there. Sorry, you cannot fly till you get a allowed to go through either, for little fault of my own. valid Schengen visa.” My six-year-old by now was in tears as she My brother-in-law made some phone calls, and we were wanted to go back home and see her “Didi.” escorted out of the airport by an employee. We got to enjoy a My only argument was, how and why did the airline let me few extra bonus days with the family. Four days later we flew do online boarding 24 hours in advance? When the passport back on the same flight, skipping Zurich this time. information is entered, why is the visa information in some form
18 Travel Secrets March-April 2014
Story.
.
an online check-in 24 hours before her Delhi-Munich-Zurich-Boston flight.
Rohini Sharma lives in Andover, USA, with her husband and two daughters. Cooking is her yoga. She also enjoys interior decoration and collecting folk art. Travelling is always fun, and she would love to do more and more of it. Reading keeps her sane. Rohini Sharma March-April 2014 Travel Secrets  19
ts
TEAM
M Know before you go!
ANNA ROSTOKINA
eet
•LANGUAGE TEACHER•LOVES TO HIKE •LIVES IN BELGRADE, SERBIA•ROAMS THE WORLD •Writes For Travel Secrets TRAVEL SECRETS MAGAZINE A New Way to See the World
smarttravel
HANDY TIPS FOR HAPPY TRIPS When travelling by bus or train, avoid trolley bags and suitcases. Rucksacks are easier to carry and move around, no matter how heavy your luggage is.
Use your ‘Smartphone’: Keep a copy of your itinerary, hotel reservations, passport and tickets on your phone.
If your hotel does not have free wi-fi in the room, ask if they have free Internet access in the public areas, such as the lobby and/or restaurants. They often do!
When travelling abroad, send local postcards back to your home address. They make great souvenirs and an instant scrapbook.
Pick a 767: Boeing 767 model airplanes have fewer of those dreaded middle seats, because the economy rows are in 2-3-2 configuration. On long-haul flights, an aisle or window seat is a blessing.
Book your ticket mid-week. Wednesdays are budget friendly days to fly. March-April 2014 Travel Secrets 21
Red hot right now Keep up with the fast-moving world! HOLIDAYS IN CANADA The Canadian Tourism Commission (CTC) reports a double digit growth of 16.5 % in the number of visitor arrivals from India in November 2013 over the same period last year. CTC India’s recently launched the Canadian Signature Experiences (CSE) collection in India, which promises visitors an exclusive made-in-Canada visitor experience that is personalised and connects on an emotional, spiritual, intellectual, and social level.
FARE SECRETS FROM SKYSCANNER Skyscanner’s Best Time to Book analysis reveals that the cheapest flight tickets from India are available 22 weeks in advance of travel on average, with savings upto 15%. February is the cheapest month to travel. According to Kavitha Gnanamurthy, Skyscanner’s Senior Marketing Manager for India, “Prices can really increase at the last minute, especially on budget airlines.” The best time to book a long haul flight from India to the United Kingdom, the United Arab Emirates and Singapore is 12 weeks in advance. For Australia and Thailand, you can get the cheapest deals if you book 16 weeks ahead of their departure date. Read Skyscanner’s Best Time to Book interactive infographic for more such information.
22 Travel Secrets March-April 2014
TravelNews BRANDY COCKTAILS BY BOLS Brandy gets a makeover by BOLS Kyndal. Their brand-new brandy cocktails don’t burn the throat and yet leave a tingling fruity, woodsy taste. Popular in South India, BOLS has now launched in Northern India. We liked what we tasted. You would, too. Cheers!
March-April 2014 Travel Secrets 23
SWISS ICE-CREAM IN DELHI Switzerland’s iconic ice-cream brand Mövenpick is now in Delhi; yours for the slurping. We were invited to try the frozen treats, and boy were we bowled over! The ice-creams are 100% natural and taste like frozen fruit pulp and chocolates swirled in fresh cream. You can savour layer after layer of their exciting Swiss Chocolate, dive into dreamland with their Tiramisu and make your tastebuds pop with Tangy Raspberry. The boutique at the Select City Walk Mall, Saket, features a range of 18 ice cream & sorbet flavours, ice cream desserts, sundaes, shakes and much more. Summer is looking luscious!
ECO FRIENDLY CAR RENTALS Car rental company Avis has announced that Peugeot’s latest eco-friendly cars can now be hired across the UK—helping customers save money on fuel and reduce their carbon footprint in 2014. Go—green!
NOW FLYING: DRUKAIR MUMBAI-BHUTAN Drukair, Royal Bhutan Airlines has opened a new route to Mumbai. The three-hour flight will operate twice weekly, on Thursdays and Sundays. Drukair, founded in 1981, is the only airline operating from Bhutan to the financial capital of India. 24 Travel Secrets March-April 2014
TravelNews
COMING SOON: DELHI-MALDIVES DIRECT Thanks to rising tourist traffic, Maldives’ national carrier Island Aviation is soon starting chartered flights from Delhi to Maldives. No more matching your holiday dates with tedious flight schedules. Waterrelief!
FLIGHT MAPS THAT ENTERTAIN A flight map so far only available on the Singapore-London route, comes loaded with a range of nature photography and geographic fun facts. Information is doled out in real time, so that while you are passing over the United Kingdom, for example, you will be met with a pop-up that explains the origins of the English Channel. High time, we think!
KENYA ON YOUR PHONE Now you can plan your trip to Kenya using the Magical Kenya App. Available on both android and iOS platforms, it gives you reliable information about Kenya, with real-life videos and tips from those who have been there. The idea is to help you customise your own itinerary on the go. And go you should: with six UNESCO World Heritage sites, 30 world-class golf courses, white-sand beaches, Mount Kilimanjaro and Masai Mara, Kenya is tops on our lust list this year!
March-April 2014 Travel Secrets  25
BLACK BOOK
Our pick of the most useful travel websites, bloggers, books, movies & more...
Sarah Marquis Solo Extreme Walker By Megha Uppal “One night, I opened my tent in the middle of the night to find five horsemen squatting down 50 cm away from my face,” remembers explorer Sarah Marquis, of her time in Mongolia’s vast green steppe. A solo extreme walker, Sarah recently completed a three-year expedition from Siberia to Australia. Driven by adventure and a passion to connect with the earth, she has taken up similar journeys in the past. Sarah explored Canada by canoe; she crossed the United States in 2000 from the Canadian border upto the Mexican — 4260 kms in four months; went into survival mode to traverse the Australian Deserts for 17 months; and in 2006 she explored the Andes on foot, from Chile to Peru via Bolivia. Sarah says she wishes to inspire others to ‘Dream It-Do It-Talk About It’. “More than adventure it’s a philosophy of movement” she says. We believe she’s doing an incredible job in demonstrating how to ‘walk’ over to your dream, with your aspirations playing guide. Know more about this Swiss explorer through her books on each of her expeditions. www.sarahmarquis.ch
26 Travel Secrets March-April 2014
www.juicyhotels.com By Shubhra Krishan “This site was born from wishing there were a good way to find the perfect hotel for me,” says Laura Van Hoff, San Francisco travel writer, photographer, and editor of this yummy, useful website. Good for us, because now you and I can search for just the kind of hotel we want, across the globe. What is your wish? Hotel with a swim-up bar? Small plane access? Piano in the room? Wifi at the beach? It’s all in here--hotels that offer a boggling range of amenities and features, with detailed reviews to boot. Juice it to the max, we say!
tsrecommends
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n into arche cure jet-la ithout th ergy. Do mind dy’s r w Rese n u n e it o a e lb n’s bo ls y les c ke (a he su dget foo your gogg ok ali mimics t a cting tterns. It’s lo g e f f y le a d es pa . gogg ht which This han rmon nd sleep travellers n lig g ho ays. a t r in ) n t e V a m gree u eU activ ian rhyth freq adiat t for y by not r is da ed Circad k; perfec it g ll in in think cycle (ca we th tion, ur n o e h v 24 us in genio ed an in ower SB p U : e ) Typ USD 275 ( $ : t s Co
Before Midnight Directed by Richard Linklater By Sarita Santoshini The third in a critically acclaimed series,:Before Sunrise (1995) and Before Sunset (2004). This film finds the now middle-aged couple entangled in discussions about family, love, loss and responsibilities during a holiday in Greece. We follow the highly engaging characters, Jesse and Celine, played by Ethan Hawke and Julian Delpy, 18 years after their chance meeting in Vienna and nine years after their reunion in Paris. The film has been shot in the south Peloponnese region, and takes you to the Kalamata airport and the former house of famous British author, Patrick Leigh Fermor in Kardamyli. Through seaside taverns, crumbling ruins and views of the Aegean Sea, Before Midnight manages to portray both the pristine beauty and untouched history of the country. Hawke believes, “Where else could you communicate trouble in paradise better than in Greece? It works, for some reason.”
March-April 2014 Travel Secrets 27
Post-Travel Pampering
W
hat do you need most once you are back from a long trip? A little TLC, right? Don’t try to sleep off your fatigue at home; the world won’t let you! Check into Maharishi Ayurveda Hospital and rejuvenate. “A Hospital?” you ask. Well, we checked out the place, and realised that the ‘hospital’ part of it is actually a bonus: you get to be seen by a qualified ayurvedic physician, who prescribes the right healing therapy for you. In other words, this is a hospital for the healthy! And it feels nothing like a regular hospital too. You enter with your backpacks
28 Travel Secrets March-April 2014
Tired after a backpacking tour? Jetlagged from a long-haul flight? Recharge your batteries at a healing retreat in the heart of Delhi
and drooping shoulders, and the relaxing energy envelop you. The doctors first diagnose and study your body requirements in the most traditional and time-tested ways. Amazingly, their diagnosis begins even before they take your pulse: a vaidya can uncover the secrets of your body and mind just by looking at you! Then comes the charting out of your healing schedule. The oils and therapies are designed for your unique needs. You feel special—now this is something nobody offers you at spas and resorts! Marion from Japan comes here every year. “It’s hard to say what your experience is
CITYSECRET
because you are so relaxed all the time. It’s hard to concentrate on the complexities and problems in your life when you are so calm. You will find everything you need here. You get great food, you don’t have to cook, you don’t have to pay extra money for anything, the people are so kind, and it’s great!” Panchakarma or the five studied steps for the complete detoxification of your body is administered here. When you leave, you feel grand and at peace. Your discomfort is gone; you feel lighter, livelier and fresh.
One of the best parts about your stay here is that all your daily expenses are covered in your treatment. You get wonderful rooms with fantastic food and other facilities. To add to the positivity, a chanting room has been added to the premises recently where you can connect and revive. Spend a day, a week, a month here and earn respect from your body and mind. You might lose weight, lose your wrinkles, and lose all your worries here. It’s a wonderful way to conclude your journey and make your body happy.
Room tariffs • Luxury Rooms Rs 15000 per day/ per person • Deluxe Rooms Rs. 12000 per day/ per person • Standard Rooms Rs. 9000 per day/ per person
MAHARISHI AYURVEDA HOSPITAL BP- Block, Shalimar Bagh (west), New Delhi- 88, India Telephone: +91 11 27479501/ 02/ 03 e-mail: mahp@vsnl.net website: www.maharishiayurvedaindia.org
March-April 2014 Travel Secrets 29
TSMOMENT
A traveller relaxes with a book at the Barefoot Cafe, Colombo, Sri Lanka
“There are some places in life where you can only go alone. Embrace the beauty of your solo journey.” 30 Travel Secrets March-April 2014
― Mandy Hale, American author
ts secrets Know before you go!
COVER STORY
ON THE WINGS OF WHIMSY
Ever bumped into a quirky traveller: One with ideas eye-poppingly odd, and heart-stoppingly awesome? Well, we had the good fortune to meet four of them!
March-April 2014 Travel Secrets  31
Meet the De-tourists
They are travellers with a difference: each is passionate about something unique. Their ideas and stories might kickstart you on a quirky journey of your own!
Matt Dickens:
The Rickshaw traveller
Rickshaw Run Chief, The Adventurists Photographs: The Adventurists
I
grew up in a sleepy little village between Bristol and Bath in the South West of England. Maybe growing up somewhere so tranquil was what fuelled my thirst for adventure. I’m currently a mere 34 years old, though I try not to act it. Before I joined The Adventurists, I dabbled in what felt like about a thousand different jobs, ranging from interior design, window cleaning, retail, working backstage in music festivals and even occasionally as an extra on TV and films. I also travelled a fair bit, leaving behind the UK for distant (usually sunnier) climes as soon as I’d saved up 32 Travel Secrets March-April 2014
enough money to stay away for at least a good six months. I’ve only visited around 50 countries so far though, so I still have a sizeable chunk of the world to get through. Rickshaw Run has been a major turning point of my life. I was travelling in Brazil back in 2006 when I first heard about it. I took one look at the website and the idea of travelling from the south of India to its far east in a rickshaw seemed too amazing and ridiculous to ignore. I signed up that very moment. I made my way to India for the inaugural Run in January 2007 and the experience was brilliant! It completely surpassed
COVERSTORY
“3900 kilometers in a rickshaw is one hell of a drive; dirty, noisy, nerve-racking.”
anything I had imagined. During our ride from Cochin in Kerala to Darjeeling in West Bengal (participants now ride towards Shillong in Meghalaya), what amazed me the most, and still amazes the participants now, was the friendliness and helpfulness of the people of India as a whole. Don’t get me wrong, I mean, it’s obviously difficult too. Covering 3900 odd kilometers in a rickshaw is definitely no easy feat. It’s a hell of a lot of driving, it’s noisy, it’s dirty, and it can be at times rather nerve-racking (to put it mildly - you’ve never known real fear until an Indian bus bears down upon you in the middle of the night). However, the most beautiful of my memories are of those spent with the locals, be it in any city, town or village. During my Run in 2007, we went first to Munnar, arriving at 2 am and not managing to find a place to stay—finally we slept in a chocolate factory of all places.
We then proceeded to Malalapuram, Orissa, skirted the city of Kolkata and headed up to Darjeeling. It’s simply a great way to see the country. I discovered different sights, cultures, food, languages...everything. We couldn’t go too fast, and everywhere we went, we stuck out like a sore thumb and attracted a crowd. We certainly got a taste of the real India though. It’s not until you’re completely lost, and broken down in the middle of nowhere with nothing but some hand gestures and a smile to get you through, that you realise what a great experience it is. I think one of the best experiences for me on the Run was when we were in a tribal area of Orissa. We’d been driving on narrow roads for 2-3 days and we were literally lost, with no real idea of where we were. Then, before we knew it, we came across a huge Mela. We were invited to be a part of a crowd of almost 4000 locals. We were also made guests of honour, asked to sit at the front and judge a singing competition. Much like India Idol, I recall. Once we left, after a fair share of fun of course, we again lost our way in the rural countryside. An hour on the road, we realised we were completely exhausted and needed a place to sleep. We didn’t get the bed we were dreaming of. Instead, an entire
village took us in, and we spent the night drinking some strange (and apparently potent) local liquor. Hours were spent in a blur of traditional songs, extreme drumming, shaking hands, and making of new friends. I’d never felt so much hospitality in one place, it was surely a night I’ll never forget. I believe the best thing that the participants take away from the Rickshaw Run is a better understanding of themselves. Some of these people have never even been out of their home countries before, and to suddenly be in control of a rickshaw on Indian roads is more than an eye-opener, it’s a life-changer. It can be a very humbling experience too. I hope that it teaches people to have a little respect for India. It’s an insane place sometimes, but there’s a kind of method in the madness, and as long as you don’t try to control India and simply go with the flow, you will have the most incredible experience here. About Matt Dickens: Matt is the Chief of Rickshaw Run, the event organised in India by a UK based company, The Adventurists. An adventurer himself, he has travelled to almost 50 countries around the globe in search for new experiences. He shares a special connect with India, visiting and exploring its interiors every chance he gets. March-April 2014 Travel Secrets 33
“I’ve visited cemeteries and haunted houses all over the world”
Sophie Collard:
The Dark Traveller
Co-Founder, traveldarkly.com Photographs: Sophie Collard & Katherine Conlon
I
’ve always been a little bit morbid, but dark tourism is really about education, history and remembrance as much as it is about beauty and light. Because where there is death there is always so much life, and it often connects people on a deep and meaningful level. For me, it is important that we remember the dead and their stories. They teach us how to be better people. As a kid growing up in the UK, my parents used to take me to castles in England and Wales. What I loved most about these tours were the stories of ghosts and witches; like Henry VIII’s wives, Catherine Howard, who I read runs headless through the hallways at Hampton Court or Anne Boleyn, who was reported to have had a sixth finger and whose hair was so long she could sit on it. I carried a fascination 34 Travel Secrets March-April 2014
COVERSTORY I was talking to a friend of mine, who had studied history at York and had just got her MA at Bristol University and she had written about all the old execution sites in London, about how I’d been playing about with the idea of a ‘dark tourism’ site for some time and I’d written on the subject for a magazine called Fortean Times. I realised that if we worked together, we could build a site that encompassed her love of history and my love of travel to theme experiences under the umbrella of ‘dark tourism’ and that’s really how traveldarkly. com began. We launched on Halloween 2013. I’d like to help people explore places as dark tourists with the aim of hearing the stories of the departed, to remember them and to learn from them. To those who have doubts, I’d say I do too sometimes - we try and write about things that happened 50 years ago or more, unless sites where tragedies have happened in recent history actively encourage tourism for the purposes of remembrance and education. We do not encourage tourism, for the most part, where recent tragedies have occurred, especially where the victims are children. About traveldarkly.com: ‘Dark tourism’ involves travelling to places associated with death, suffering or the macabre. The term encompasses a huge range of destinations – from dungeons, cemeteries and battlefields to medical museums and haunted pubs. The purpose of these sites varies considerably; some, like the London Dungeon, are about entertaining visitors with gory stories. Others, including sites of human atrocity like camps of genocide and the memorials and museums dedicated to their memory, are important places of remembrance and education. About Sophie Collard: Sophie is a travel writer and founder of Travel Darkly. She wandered through many ‘dark tourist’ sites before she was aware they were categorised as such, including seeing Ho Chi Mihn’s body, the Killing Fields and Teoul Seng in Vietnam and Cambodia with Katherine. She’s been to cemeteries all over the world, from Recoleta in Buenos Aires to Pere Lachaise in Paris and the catacombs in Palermo, as well as inside the cell the Pendle witches were held in and to the Tower of London. Sophie is known for writing about trains both on her blog sophieontrack.com and for various rail companies. She has been copywriting in the travel space for some time now.
with the morbid through to adulthood and have always enjoyed visiting cemeteries and memorials that tell stories about those who are no longer with us. I always dreamed of being a travel writer and now that I work in the travel industry, it seemed like a good time to put out the stories I’ve always enjoyed so much to the rest of the world— who I know love them too. I travel ‘darkly’ on most days. I used to live in West Hampstead in London and
every day I would walk to Hampstead cemetery to take a break at lunchtime. I’ve visited cemeteries and memorials all over the world, as well as haunted houses, castles and dungeons. I’ve been to the catacombs in Paris and in Palermo, Sicily, to the Killing Fields in Cambodia and of course, the Taj Mahal and the Tower of London. When I visited Jaisalmer in 2012, I took a trip to the cemetery nearby, where the Maharajas and Maharani’s are buried. While
I was sitting there with a friend from the town, a group of people gathered around one of the tombs. There was a man shouting and screaming and I thought a big fight had broken out. My friend checked out what was going on and said that the man believed he was possessed by the spirit of the Maharaja, because he had not been pious enough. They had come to the cemetery to beg for the Maharaja’s forgiveness, and exorcise the spirit. It was a very ‘real’ experience. March-April 2014 Travel Secrets 35
Rolf Potts:
The luggage-free travelLer Travel Writer Photographs: Justin Glow
T
he no-baggage journey was over! After six weeks and more than 30,000 miles on five continents, I was back in New York. To be honest, I was severely tired (and I’d reckon my exhaustion had less to do with my lack of luggage than the fact that the world is a big place to cover in such a short time). I didn’t pack many items for the journey, but I did manage to pack in a lot of experiences. Before I started this trip I wondered how light I could pack, and I wondered which items might be essential to the enjoyment of other countries. As it turned out, I didn’t require much — the less I took, the less I 36 Travel Secrets March-April 2014
had to worry about, and the less it slowed me down. I managed to have a lot of great experiences over the course of my journey, and I rarely found myself wishing I’d brought more things. All too often, I think, we pack a bunch of “just in case” items most of which are either available on the road, or not necessary in the first place. Starting and ending in New York City, I travelled through 12 countries in six weeks. I made nearly 10 flights (spending over 50 hours in the air), rode countless trains and buses, and maybe even a boat or two. All with no luggage! From New York, the first stop was London before taking a train to Paris. Then I went off to Spain, where I saw the sights
of Madrid and headed off to Gibraltar for a ferry to Morocco. Next up it was Egypt, and then South Africa for a safari. Another long flight to Bangkok before making my way through Thailand, Malaysia, and on to Singapore overland. New Zealand was next, with a quick stop in Australia, and then I was back to the United States for a cross-country jaunt back to New York City. I’d set up five simple ground rules for the No Baggage Challenge.. 1) No bags on the journey, period. 2) No borrowing of items from (or stowing items with) the cameraman (Justin Glow). 3) Borrowing items from locals or other travellers is permitted 4) Buying items along the way is permitted
COVERSTORY
“The less I took, the less I had to worry about, and the less it slowed me down.”
5) Mailing items to oneself is interesting, but not permitted. The No Baggage Challenge wasn’t just about travelling around the world without luggage — it was also an inquiry into simplifying material concerns and seeking rich life-experiences. Ever since the earliest days of my nobaggage round-the-world journey, I’ve wanted to test out the smell and appearance of my travel clothing by trying to get past the “velvet rope” of some exclusive nightclub in some great world city. In Bangkok I finally got the chance to do this. Thankfully neither I nor my clothes smelt bad and I, pretty much had a great time that night!
I also got the chance, on that same day, to eat assorted insects from a street vendor. Unlike my usual flavours, I ended up eating grasshoppers, crickets, butterfly larvae, ant larvae, and dried frogs — and it was interesting to note how different each item tasted. By far the best were the dried frogs (I’m not sure how they were prepared, but they were boneless and a tad crunchy) which tasted a lot like pork rinds. Of all the things I’d expected to experience when planning my no-luggage world journey, drinking elephant-dung tea in South Africa was not among them. I’d expected I might explore nightlife in Spain (which I did, while eating tapas in Madrid) or ride a camel in Egypt (which I did, at Giza) —but I never expected to imbibe a medicinal beverage that had recently passed through an elephant’s ass— to cure a gentle harmless cold! By the time we reached Bangkok, however, the cold was gone. Such is the unpredictability of travel. Looking back I feel that I got into a
travel rhythm pretty soon and the nobaggage aspect of the trip was pretty simple. Two-a-day showers kept me as clean as I’ve ever been on the road, and daily clotheswashings (of my socks, underwear, and t-shirt) kept my wardrobe fresh and odour free. Washing clothes every day was no more tiresome than washing myself every day. In short, if you can get into the habit of taking a shower every day (and I hope you have), you can get into the habit of washing a few clothing items every day. In fact, you can do both at once — many nights I took my clothes into the shower and washed them as I washed myself. About Rolf Potts: Rolf Potts is an American travel writer, essayist, and author. He has written two books, Vagabonding (Random House, 2003) and Marco Polo Didn’t Go There (Travellers Tales, 2008). Potts directs the summer creative writing workshop at the Paris American Academy, and he was the 2011-2012 ArtsEdge Writer-in-Residence at the University of Pennsylvania. He currently teaches nonfiction writing at Yale University. March-April 2014 Travel Secrets 37
Shivya Nath:
The off-beat Indian travelLer
Co-founder, India Untravelled Photographs: Shivya Nath
I
grew up in the small town of Dehradun in Uttarakhand and continue to hold fond memories of its pre-capital days. As a 17-year-old in search of freedom, however, I decided to move to Singapore for college and began working with the Singapore Tourism Board soon after. Working in the tourism industry exposed me to the largely western concepts of long term travel, travel writing, round the world travel, and living out of a backpack. People not very different from me, really did travel the world for a living. I found no reason why an Indian girl like myself couldn’t do it. I fine-tuned my then dormant blog, and took a sabbatical from work to see if I could adapt to a nomadic life. I backpacked around the Alpine countryside of Europe for a month, took my first solo trip to Spiti Valley in Himachal, and quit my corporate job immediately after. To me, an offbeat place is one that you can find little or no information about on Google! Think no reviews on Tripadvisor, no entry on Wikitravel and such. Most of these places have no nice buses or trains running to them, have few (sometimes just one) accommodation option, and don’t elicit much of a response when you look for recommendations on Twitter. Travelling offbeat in India usually involves more expenditure, both in terms of getting there and more exclusive accommodation options. Safety wise, I’ve found offbeat 38 Travel Secrets March-April 2014
“I’ve found offbeat towns and villages in India to be far safer than the cities”
COVERSTORY
towns and villages in India to be far safer than the cities. People are more curious, but more hospitable and more genuine. I have met families, communities & individuals running small travel offerings in rural parts that offer travel enthusiasts an insight into a world away from the cities and the popular tourist circuit of India. Through tourism, they help the local community preserve their way of life, protect the local ecology, conserve the heritage of a place, provide employment opportunities to the village folk, and offer the artists & craftsmen of the region a financial avenue to sustain their work. Unfortunately, the lack of an online presence in today’s Google-dominated world
means many such offerings haven’t yet become self-sustainable. My start-up, India Untravelled, was born on a weekend I spent on the countryside of Punjab, amid a 400-acre fruit & cotton farm and the heartwarming hospitality of a family from the pind of Ghallu. It is an attempt to bridge this online marketing gap. It is a window into the India that many of us romanticise about. It stems from the fact that people who would enjoy experiences off the beaten path in rural India are not people who would book their travel through a travel agent. These are independent thinkers who rely on Google and social media for their travel research.
I’ve travelled offbeat for years now: one moment, I’m drinking opium with a tribal shepherd community in Rajasthan, the next I am cycling through the countryside of Northern Thailand. But if I were to pick up one offbeat experience that I’ll forever hold onto, it would be Rodrigues, the sleepy sister island of Mauritius. It’s how I would imagine Mauritius to have been a few decades ago pristine blue coastline but no fancy resorts, sparkling white beaches but no people or beach chairs, and such a calm, relaxed vibe to the whole place. I was the 9th Indian to go there in 2012, on a flight booked on impulse a day before, and it’s a travel secret I try to guard with all my life. So shhh... These travel experiences over the years have, more than anything, helped me grow as a person. They urged me to go location independent in August 2013 and I have been wandering, sometimes a little lost but mostly with more purpose, since then. I believe one important thing that offbeat travelling has taught me is to make peace with the idea of happiness. I always thought that the leap of faith I took years ago, to live and travel on my own terms, would take me closer to the illusive feeling of happiness. And it has. But happiness is such a fleeting feeling. Happiness for me was a drunk man on a lonely road in Sri Lanka stopping and shining the torch in our direction, till we found our way back to our guesthouse. Happiness was walking into a bakery in Turkey to ask for directions, and having the owner pull out his truck to give me a ride. The memories of these moments last, but happiness itself doesn’t. Recently a friend told me, we’re not people who can be happy. We’re just drifters. It’s true. About Shivya Nath: I quit my corporate job in 2011, at age 23, and decided to travel the world. I’ve lived with the White Thai tribe in a remote Vietnamese village, hitchhiked along Turkey’s Black Sea coast, swum with black-tip sharks on Malaysia’s east coast, spent a night in the highest inhabited village of the Himalayas, and fallen in love with so many people and places, that I’ve lost count. My travel stories have appeared in BBC Travel, National Geographic Traveller, The Times of India and Lonely Planet, among others. I’m a Forbes Travel Guide Correspondent for Delhi and a travel blogger for The Huffington Post. I was recently featured on Femina’s “35 Under 35” Power List of Indian women. In January 2012, I co-founded India Untravelled, with an aim to introduce travel enthusiasts to responsible travel experiences in rural India. March-April 2014 Travel Secrets 39
TSMOMENT
One of the joys of travel is stumbling upon interesting shopfront signs. This one was snapped in the lovely seaside town of St. Andrews, Scotland, on a soft rainy morning.
St. Andrews: Know Before You Go St. Andrews is located about 1 hour from Edinburgh and 1.30 hours from Glasgow by car. Once here, rent a bike or walk around—the town is less than 1.5 kilometres across! St. Andrews has been called ‘The home of Golf’ since 1552. It is a popular holiday resort for avid golfers and seekers of bracing sea air. The town centre teems with independent shops, boutique hotels, restaurants and cafes. After all, it boasts more than 1000 years of experience in looking after visitors! Some cute names we stumbled upon: Gentle
40 Travel Secrets March-April 2014
Dental Practice. Fat Face clothing store. Bonkers gift shop. Beanscene cafe. Rascals Bar. Nature lovers will love St. Andrews! To the south, the stunning Fife Coastal Path wends its way along cliffs and quiet beaches—great for watching seabirds. The Eden Estuary to the north houses plenty of marine and bird life. A few miles ahead, in Tentsmuir Forest, seals, porpoises and dolphins bask on the sandbanks, whilst deer, osprey and peregrines are frequently sighted in the woods and lochs. Can’t wait to go? Stop by at www.visitstandrews.com for detailed information on the town. Photo by: Shubhra Krishan
ts secrets Know before you go!
cyprus
THE ISLE OF SIMPLE PLEASURES
If you have been longing for a vacation that will take you from rushed to relaxed, Cyprus is where you need to be...
March-April 2014 Travel Secrets  41
SUN + SAND + SEA + CITRUS:
CYPRUS
This small island in the East Mediterranean delivers big on beauty and bliss, finds Shubhra Krishan
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THEBIGTRIP
n returning from my recent trip, I posted a photo on Facebook: Me beside an olive tree in Cyprus. At once, a friend popped up on chat: “You went to Cyprus???!!!” Those punctuation marks were eloquent. She followed them up with a phone call, and gushed: “You know, I thought I was the only one in Delhi who went to Cyprus! Didn’t you just love it???!!!” “I did!!!,” I said. And meant it. I am a woman of few words, and don’t use exclamation marks often, but Cyprus compelled me to make an exception. It is true that not many from Delhi, or for that matter anywhere in India, go to Cyprus. In our last issue, we polled a cross section of avid travellers to check what topped their 2014 wishlist, and no, Cyprus wasn’t there. I hope that will change by the time you finish reading this article. Let me begin by telling you how not to see Cyprus. Simple: don’t plan too hard, and certainly don’t bind yourself to a tight itinerary. Luckily, the island is not crammed with ‘world-famous’ towers and grand monuments that need you to stand in queue long hours so you can tick them off your to-do list. Yes, there is a set of rocks that you must see, because they mark the place where Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love and beauty is said to have been born. And because those wave-splashed rocks offer a scene of immense beauty and...immensity. More than that, your ‘to-do list’ should be made up of pleasures that soothe the senses and heal the soul. So, rent a car and take your time driving through miles upon miles of luscious orange and lemon orchards. Inhale the jasmine and herb-scented air while you lie under an old tree and enjoy ‘The Bridges of Madison County,’ maybe. Explore an old village with an unpronounceable
March-April 2014 Travel Secrets 43
A delicious sense of languour suffuses the streets of Cyprus. Picture yourself here; the sunshine warming your shoulders, sea breeze in your hair...
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”A compact island, Cyprus contains the topography and climate of all the world’s continents. Mountain villages & urban beaches: you can ski and swim on the same day...
name—on foot. Get atop an ancient fort and gaze down upon the open sea below. Pluck a juicy wild fig and enjoy it like the locals do. Savour farm-fresh produce and sea-fresh fish washed down with deeply fruity wine. Sit beside the sea and dream of lands far away, ideas close to your heart, or whatever it is that you love to dream about. Drift happily away... Next, let me tell you where not to stay in Cyprus. Nicosia; aka Lefkosia. The capital city. Sounds a bit surprising, no? But what can I say? I stayed there for three full days, and found not much to see and do. There are, no doubt, some great places to have lunch and dinner in. There is also a giant Ikea and a not-so-giant Cyprus Mall, but not much else. Having said that, do allot at least one evening to the vibrant Makarios Avenue, a long shopping street split halfway down between Cyprus and Turkey. Stroll leisurely along, munching on roasted chestnuts and popcorn. Enjoy hot pizza with beer, and look out for incredible bargains on shoes and bags: I got a beautiful pair of boots for just 20 Euros here. But like I said, that’s pretty much what you get to do in Nicosia. Limassol. Now that’s the town you should be devoting most of your time and attention to. It’s a pleasant 50-minute drive from Larnaca airport. Actually, anywhere in Cyprus is a pleasant—and quick—drive: the island stretches 225 km from east to west and at most 97 km from north to south with a coastline of 648 km. The roads are smooth and sinuous, the air nearly always balmy. But Limassol left me longing. All I got to do was drive in, breeze past the quaint old streets, and drive off to the Troodos mountains, because we were short of time. (That’s the unglamorous part of being a travel writer: most press trips are tight on schedule, teasing you with the promise of laid-back bliss, and then tearing you away to another heartstopper. Sigh! ) But whatever I saw of Limassol was enough to convince me of its utter desirability. This is a seaside town with all the glitter and good weather you would expect from a Med-side locale. I took a quick tour of the gorgeous and luxurious Amathus Beach Hotel, and fell in instant love. That’s where the ‘me beside the olive tree’ photo was taken, by the way. Limassol is the second largest city in Cyprus, but of course that isn’t saying much. More importantly, it packs in quite a few pleasures: if you like walking down cobbled streets and shopping for local knick-knacks, you can spend a few pleasant hours here. And there is always the 10-mile seaside promenade to keep you gawking, and walking! The ancient town of Paphos also sits beside the sea. Located on the southwest coast of Cyprus, it is sprinkled with beaches that have won awards for their cleanliness. Gems of historical and mythological value—museums, castles, theatres—abound in Paphos. Go up to the Medieval Castle, the square in front of which is always teeming with some cultural activity. A real pelican struts in front of an eponymous taverncum-restaurant. A craft bazaar was on when I went, and I bought some lovely locally produced bath salts there. Do go up the Troodos mountains. I think they are the best part of the island, with their snow-speckled tops and icicle-flecked air. Cherries grow here, alongside almonds and hazelnuts. Painted churches sit on quiet stretches. A chocolate shop looms up in the middle of nowhere. The next time I go, I am going to rent a room in this area, so that I can absorb the simple village life and do a lot of walking. It helps that some free wine tasting and fabulous taverns are never far away! March-April 2014 Travel Secrets 45
Shopping in Cyprus Typically, souvenirs and touristy tidbits will be sold to you as ‘Cyprus this’ and ‘Cyprus that.’ Steer clear of those traps, and take time to observe where the locals are going and what they are buying.
1
Commandaria Wine: said to be the world’s oldest. I cannot
verify the claim, but can vouch for the wine: it is sweet divinity!
2
Honey: the blossoming farms on the island yield some
wonderful varieties. Aso, figs and fresh fruit from the local markets. Better still, pluck them straight off the trees. As my guide Georgia Constantin said, “You can never go hungry in Cyprus; there’s always fruit hanging low on the trees!”
3
Olive oil: after all, the locals have grown up with olive
trees since times Neolithic! But beware: we bought a big can of olive oil at a farmer’s market, and paid 18 Euros for five litres. But when we weighed the can later, it was only four litres. Also, check with the airline if you are allowed to carry oil. Some don’t allow it, even as part of your checked baggage.
4
Lace and embroidered fabric: from Lefkara village
if possible, where fine lacemaking has been a tradition for generations. In the streets of Omodos village, we saw old women working away at lace kerchiefs and tablecloths.
5
Local handicraft & ceramics: Browse and buy traditional
craft items — weaving, basket making, wood carving, pottery, and the production of leather and traditional copper items are Cyprus specials. Mesogi village near Paphos specialises in colourful baskets made of bamboo and wicker.
6
Bath salts: did you know, Cyprus is one of the only
regions in the world to produce gourmet bath salts!
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THEBIGTRIP
Taste the abundance of Nature in Cyprus. Clean, fresh, and so flavourful!
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THEBIGTRIP
The Island’s Best Eats & Treats Ta Mpania Restaurant in Paphos: lunch beside the lapping waters of the sea. Salad and soup, pasta and wine, by the end of the meal, you’ll be feeling more than fine! Stou kir Yianni tavern in Omodos wine village: Make sure you order a locally made wine to go with your food. Afterwards, stroll down the sleepy, sunlit lanes where artistes paint and women make lace. Loukoumia: also called Cyprus Delight, are delicate sweets starring dried fruit, rosewater, oranges, lemons and such. You will easily find them everywhere in Cyprus.
March-April 2014 Travel Secrets 49
Isle File Full name: Republic of Cyprus Population: 1.1 million (combined) (UN, 2012) Capital: Nicosia (Lefkosia to Greek Cypriots, Lefkosa to Turkish Cypriots) Area (combined): 9,251 sq km Major languages: Greek, Turkish Currency: Euro; Turkish lira used in north The Northern part of Cyprus is under Turkish military occupation. The status of Northern Cyprus as a separate entity is recognised only by Turkey, which keeps around 30,000 troops in the north of the island.
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THEBIGTRIP
Key Signposts of the Past The old part of Limassol, and the castle that houses a museum. Located near the old harbour, and open all days. The ancient theatre of Kourion and the House of Eustolios: just a heartbeat away from Paphos. Magnificent Greco-Roman remains, including a theater. Also, stunning mosaic floors. The Byzantine church of Asinou (UNESCO) near Nikitari village in the Troodos Mountains. Some of the finest examples of Byzantine wall paintings are here. Kykkos Monastery: the richest and most lavish of all Cyprus monasteries. Located north-west of Troodos Mountains. I missed this, but you shouldn’t. Petra tou Romiou, the legendary birthplace of Aphrodite, whom the Romans named Venus. It is said that anyone who swims around the rocks is blessed with eternal beauty, but then, those waters are rough and swimming around them is not permitted. Paphos Archaeological Park: do not miss these stunning Aphrodite mosaics—astonishingly wellpreserved, they tell mythological tales in the most exquisite manner. Later, stroll up to the Paphos Medieval Fort. TS Editor Shubhra Krishan’s trip to Cyprus was hosted by Cyprus Tourism and Gulf Air.
March-April 2014 Travel Secrets 51
Know Before You Go
Illustration: Nobu Grinewich-Yonshiro
Many Cyprus towns have two names: a Greek one and a Turkish one. This can be a bit confusing. For example, the Hilton in Nicosia is actually called Hilton Lefkosia, which threw me in doubt until I found out that Lefkosia is simply the Turkish name for Nicosia. Similarly, Lemesos is Greek and Limassol is Turkish—both refer to the same town.
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THEBIGTRIP
Delhi-Cyprus Flight Review I flew Gulf Air Business: Delhi-Bahrain-Cyprus. The fog delayed my first flight, GF 131, by 12 hours, so I had to spend an entire day in Bahrain. I was dreading the discomfort of it all, but it turned out to be an unexpected gift! Gulf Air made the stopover easy and comfortable, putting us up at the lovely Al Safir Hotel, and taking care of all the pick-ups, drops and baggage transfers. On board Gulf Business, I had a chance to see their SkyNanny Service in action! When a chubby Chinese baby suddenly begain wailing, clutched at her tummy and rolled on to the floor, her mother panicked. The smiling Nanny did not; scooping up the infant with practised ease, and soothing her in a matter of seconds. The seats reclined well, the food tasted good. I’ll take Gulf Air again. Delhi-Bahrain: 4 hours 35 minutes Bahrain-Larnaca: 3 hours 45 minutes
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Writing In the Open Air with Eric Maisel In June, I’ll be leading a deep writing workshop in Paris for 25 – 30 writers. This is my annual European deep writing workshop and this year I’ll be adding a new feature: en plein air writing. Because what writer doesn’t want to write in the great parks and cafés of Paris?
T
he dream of writing in Paris has always included writing in the middle of Parisian life, whether sitting at a tiny table at one of the famous cafés—Les Deux Magots, Café de Flore or La Coupole—sitting on a bench at one of the legendary parks—The Luxembourg Gardens, The Tuileries Garden, or the Place des Vosges—or writing exactly wherever you happened to find yourself.
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Can’t you see yourself penning dialogue for your screenplay among the acrobats in front of the Centre Georges Pompidou or finishing your sonnet while being silently watched by a Parisian mime? What writer hasn’t wanted this? There is always an “inside” component to my deep writing workshop: a chance for participants to sit quietly among like-
minded souls in the excellent silence that writers writing together creates. In Paris our “inside” work will take place each morning at the American Graduate School in Paris on Boulevard Raspail, a stone’s throw from La Coupole and Le Select. Then, in the afternoon, we get to go out and write en plein air! We’ll spend one afternoon in the Luxembourg Gardens, another in the Place
TRAVELGURU
des Vosges, and a third in the Jardin des Plantes. Then I have a special treat in mind for my writers: an afternoon in the hidden-away Roman amphitheater Arenes de Lutece, a spot that virtually no tourist or the average Parisian is likely to stumble upon, even though it is close by the bustling Rue Mouffetard market street. Saved from destruction in the nineteenth century by Victor Hugo and other Parisian writers and intellectuals, the Arenes de Lutece dates from the first century AD and is thought to be the longest amphitheater of its kind ever constructed by the Romans. Not a bad place to write! Why write outside? For all the obvious reasons: that it is lovely to have life swirl around you as you create, that cafés, parks, and writers have always gone together, that people-watching is its own great joy. But there’s also an even more important reason. Writing outside, where people can see you writing, makes you “conspicuous,” just as painting en plein air makes a painter conspicuous. This brave act of writing or painting in full public view helps build your artist identity. You become more of a writer by writing in public!
“it is lovely to have life swirl around you as you create. cafés, parks, and writers have always gone together.”
to vanish, never to return. A writer mustn’t let her ideas vanish like that! A good idea is too precious and a writer’s only real capital is her ideas. By writing outdoors you get used to writing anywhere, which is exactly what every writer must do.
A surprisingly large number of writers, and virtually all would-be writers, do not identify strongly enough as a writer. They say things like, “I can’t call myself a writer until I’m famous” or “I can’t call myself a writer until I’ve had several novels published” or “I can’t call myself a writer if I don’t write all the time.” By saying this to themselves, by failing to fully inhabit their writer identity, they make it that much harder for themselves to write. Writing outdoors, conspicuously and in full view, helps counteract this failure to self-identify as a writer.
There’s a third reason, too. Sometimes you have to take a vacation not from your writing but with your writing. Your writing can get tired of your everyday studio, just as you can get tired of that same old place. Another hour at the same desk, in the same chair, looking past the same curtains at the same view. Yes, you must write there most of the time: that is both honorable and necessary. But sometimes a vacation is required! There is no place your writing wants to visit more than the boulevards, cafés, and parks of Paris. If you are a writer or even if you are just thinking about writing, come join me in Paris in June. How can you not?
Along the same lines, the act of writing en plein air reminds you that you are obliged to write wherever you are when an idea strikes you. If you don’t jot down your own important ideas when you happen to find yourself in a bus station, on a supermarket line, or picking up your dry cleaning, what will happen to those ideas? They are likely
Eric Maisel is the author of 40+ books. Visit him at http://www.ericmaisel.com. To learn more about Dr. Maisel’s Paris Deep Writing Workshop, please visit http://ericmaisel.com/parisdeep-writing-workshop/
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What are some of the best camping sites in India?
Reach the camping site at least 3 hours before sun down. Once there, get a clear perspective of the surroundings to be able to navigate later in the dark.
THE EXPERT: Aloke Bajpai, Founder & Partner, The Explorers
Being a city dweller with not enough time for extended vacations, I find camping by a lake or in the woods with friends to be a perfect getaway. Fortunately, one is never too far from a great camping spot in India. 56  Travel Secrets March-April 2014
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Maharashtra, according to me, provides abundant camping opportunities that lie only kilometers away from the bounds of its capital city Mumbai. I have fond memories of a weekend in Tikona Fort that sits on a scenic hill and is accessible through an easy 45minute trek. Once there, we had uninterrupted views of Pawana Dam and Tung Fort in the day and a clear sky for star gazing at night. Peth Fort in Karjat also makes for a great site owing to the presence of Peth village at the base and the ample open space available to pitch a tent at the top. Tandulwadi is another camping site located very close to Mumbai. Those in Bangalore can drive to Madikeri in Coorg for a weekend of camping amidst coffee plantations or to Chikmagalur if you are looking for some adventure and great sunset views. The best experience, however, can be had in a camp site in Bheemeshwari where you can go for fishing, birding and wildlife spotting by the majestic Cauvery River. From Delhi, you could drive to the hill station of Dhanolti in Uttarakhand. There, you will find established camp sites on the meadows with a backdrop of the beautiful snow-capped Himalayas. If you are looking for some place even quainter, the valley of Rajgarh that lies 40 kilometres from Solan in Himachal Pradesh is the best option. Longer Himalayan expeditions like Parvati Valley trek and Chandratal trek also provide excellent camping opportunities. KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: • Study the map carefully to have an idea of where the motorable roads will lead you. • When looking for a secluded spot, remember to ensure that there is a water body in the vicinity. • If possible, camp close to a village that can provide you food as well as safety in case of any emergency. • Check if your camping spot requires permission of the Forest Department. • Reach the camping site at least 3 hours before sun down. Once there, get a clear perspective of the surroundings to be able to navigate later in the dark. • Practise how to pitch a tent well in advance; remember to mark a snake pit around it and light a fire only at an adequate distance. • Carry essentials like sleeping bag, a good torch, first-aid kit, adequate water, Swiss knife, as well as a stove and food supply if you plan to cook.
Aloke Bajpai A certified mountaineer and skier, with training in river rafting. His company, The Explorers, specialises in experiential and adventure travel. Visit www.explorersindia. com to pick your trip!
- Aloke Bajpai spoke to TS Correspondent Sarita Santoshini
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How can I use sketching as a medium for recording my travels?
Sketching slows me down, and opens my mind up to a new place
The Expert: Candace Rose Rardon, Writer and Sketch artist
Although I’m grateful for the way that sketching helps me remember places, what I love most is how it opens the door to serendipitous encounters.
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THEEXPERT Ever since purchasing my first SLR camera when I was 13 years old, I’ve loved documenting my travels through pictures. But I gradually felt that the more photos I snapped on a trip, the more I wasn’t remembering places as vividly as I would have liked to. In a way, I was letting the machine do all the work, not my mind. And so just about three years ago, I decided to bring something else besides my camera with me on my next trip: A sketchbook and a pack of 12 watercolour pencils. I’ve now sketched my way through nearly 25 countries, and I couldn’t imagine a better medium for recording my travels. Sketching slows me down, and opens my mind up to a new place. As I sit in the same spot for two or three hours, working on a sketch, my senses are on high alert, and I leave that spot with strong memories of all that I could see, smell, hear, and feel as I sketched. Here’s how you can start sketching on your next trip: 1. Choose your gear I always recommend keeping it simple. Don’t feel like you need to invest in an entire portfolio of painting supplies just to get started. Select a sketchbook with good quality paper – I suggest 140 lb. (300 gsm), so that the pages won’t buckle when you begin applying water – and decide on what medium you’ll use, be it watercolour paints, pencils, pens, markers, etc. For paints, I love my Winsor & Newton watercolour field kit, which holds 12 colours and is easy to slip into whatever bag I’m using for a trip. I also use Staedtler pigment liner drawing pens and Derwent watercolour pencils. 2. Focus on a scene Choose a scene that inspires you. Find a café or bench where you can sketch from, and think about what you’d like to focus on and what details you’ll include. Although you will soon develop your own style, I usually spend about 15 minutes laying out a sketch in pencil, an hour drawing the scene with pen, and then another 45-60 minutes bringing the scene to life with paints and watercolour pencils. During the drawing stage, I also like to write little annotations on the sketch—snippets of overheard dialogue, sensory observations, or even a line or two of how I’m feeling that day—anything that will instantly transport me back to that scene when I look at the sketch in the future. 3. Be open to serendipity Although I’m grateful for the way that sketching helps me remember places, what I love most is how it opens the door to serendipitous encounters. When I’m sitting down with my sketchbook open, it’s amazing how often people will come up to me and peer over my shoulder. While sketching in the Bến Thành night market in Saigon, Vietnam, I met two local college students who invited me to draw with them the next day; in Mostar, Bosnia, I was invited into several local families’ homes after they saw me sketching outside; and sketching on-location in Istanbul’s bustling Grand Bazaar was a way to form a unique connection with Turkish carpet sellers. The people I meet through my sketches mean just as much to me as the paintings themselves.
Candace Rose Rardon Candace is a writer and sketch artist originally from the state of Virginia, although she has also called the UK, New Zealand, and India home. In addition to running her blog, The Great Affair, which was recently featured in the New York Times, she has also released her first book of travel sketches, Beneath the
Lantern’s Glow: Sketches and Stories from Southeast Asia and Japan.
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HOW DO I STRIKE A SMART BARGAIN WHEN SHOPPING AROUND THE WORLD? The Expert: Alexandra Jimenez, Editor of the blog TravelFashionGirl
Stand firm and act confident. If you don’t get the price you want, be prepared to walk away. Some vendors will chase after you with a lower price.
One of the most exciting aspects about travelling is acquiring unique souvenirs from around the globe. Locals markets are a treasure trove combining the thrill of finding that special find to perfecting your bargaining skills. 60 Travel Secrets March-April 2014
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How exactly does one bargain? Haggling is considered by many to be an art form or at least a skill that can be acquired through experience. While it may overwhelm and even intimidate you, a bit of patience will help you succeed in attaining that one-of-a kind keepsake with a bargain basement price tag. In fact, in some countries, bargaining is a part of the culture with price haggling to be expected. Do a little research before your trip to determine general bargaining tips for your particular destination. Follow these 10 tips to help you in your quest to master the art of skillful bargaining: 1. Never attempt to bargain for an item you’re not prepare to buy. Don’t waste the vendor’s time or yours. 2. Window shop discreetly without asking for prices. You don’t want them to know you’re interested. 3. Once you’ve found the special item you want to purchase, decide on a number in your head. Determine how much you’re willing to pay and what it is worth to you. This will help give you confidence indicating to the vendor that you are an experienced haggler. 4. Think in terms of local currency, not your own. Take the price standards in the local economy into consideration when deciding on a price. 5. Generally speaking, offer half of the original asking price expecting to meet the vendor in the middle. For example, if he asks for 10, you offer 5, and expect to pay 7.5. 6. Expect an over exaggerated reaction from the salesperson at your counteroffer. While a bit of this is to be expected, if you follow the above guideline you should end up be in a reasonable price range for both of you. 7. Stand firm and act confident. If you don’t get the price you want, be prepared to walk away or reconsider if your offer was too low. Some vendors will chase after you with a lower price. This varies between destinations. 8. If you really want to buy something the vendor may not always come chasing after you so decide whether you will pass on the item or pay more. 9. It is very important to pay what the item is worth to you, not what others have paid for it. 10. Don’t fight over pennies. Remember, the difference in you paying or saving 10 cents can make a world of difference to that vendor feeding themselves or their family. What if you overpaid? If you are happy with your purchase and the price tag then that’s all that matters. Maybe you paid a bit more than another person but you also gained an incredible souvenir that will bring you memories that will last a lifetime. Enjoy it!
Alexandra Jimenez She is the Editor of TravelFashionGirl.com, a groundbreaking resource for female travellers that shows women how to pack light in an efficient and fashionable way. Originally from Los Angeles, she’s travelled to 37 countries on six continents, since quitting her corporate job in the fashion industry in 2008. Learn more about her and her packing tips on her blog. You can also follow her on Twitter @ TravlFashnGirl.
— Alexandra Jimenez spoke to TS writer Megha Uppal
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the lure of the
Andamans Lush green forests, jagged coastline, emerald blue waters, dramatic sunsets over sandy beaches, hidden lagoons, quiet backwaters…Romit Mehta finds every picture-perfect fantasy come alive in the Andamans.
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S
et far from the mainland (1400 km) and closer to the tropical islands of Indonesia (150 km), the Andaman cluster consists of around 300 islands. Of these, only a dozen or so are open to tourists— Nicobar is completely off limits. Port Blair, the administrative centre, stands as a great reservoir of India’s colonial past. It’s a good idea to start your explorations here.
THETRAVELLER
Port Blair, the administrative centre, stands as a great reservoir of India’s colonial past. It’s a good idea to start your explorations here, then traipse off to other enchanting islands such as Ross & Viper. The Andamans’ rich blend of history, beauty and serenity will stay with you forever.
This is where the Cellular Jail is located. During the British and subsequent Japanese rule, political prisoners were sent here to labour hard and languish away. The sentence was called ‘Kaala Pani,’ the ‘water of death.’ Walking down the corridors of this cellular prison—now a national monument—is a humbling experience. The morbid and often inspiring history of the place and its inmates is bound to linger in your mind long after you have left. There are light and sound shows, too..
From Port Blair, you can take short day trips to other islands such as Ross and Viper. Ross Island, which used to be the British administrative centre, is dotted with old opulent Victorian architecture. It was abandoned after the massive earthquake of 1941, followed by the Japanese invasion. Today the Victorian architecture and remnants of the colonial past are overrun by jungles, akin to the ruins of Angkor Wat, taking you on a bittersweet trip down memory lane.
For those with little interest in history, Port Blair offers dazzling sunsets, pristine beaches and blue waters. A 20-km ride on a local bus or a taxi takes you to the incredible Chidiya Tapu. Hugely popular with tourists, the place is renowned for the show nature puts out every day through the brilliant hues of its glorious sunsets. Trek two km up the hill through the popular beach, and you will come upon a great viewing point and an empty lighthouse (if you are willing to climb a steep ladder!) offering spectacular 360 degree views. If all of this sounds too touristy, take a trip to Wandoor, a tiny village to the south of Port Blair. It is close to the Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park, and houses some tranquil and beautiful beaches. Those interested in mangroves and local flora and March-April 2014 Travel Secrets 63
The magic of Long island
Tranquil beach in South Wandoor
The beautiful Ross and Smith islands
Stunning sunset at Chidiya Tapu
fauna must visit the Andaman and Nicobar Environmental team (ANET), a research institute with passionate Indian ecologists offering comfortable forest cottages and tours such as mangrove and sea krait walks. A visit to ANET will definitely instill in you a sense of admiration for the biological diversity in Andaman. A stay with them could also allow access (with the ecologists) to a few reserved islands in Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Reserve. All in all, Port Blair is a perfect appetiser for the rest of the pleasures that await you on the Andamans. With lots of backpacker and family friendly accommodation options and a bustling bazaar, the island makes it easy for you to stay in comfort. It is when you step out of the comfort zone and start exploring the islands beyond Port Blair that you discover some hidden gems. Little Andaman, a small island to the south of Port Blair, reached by a 10 hour ferry ride from Port Blair, offers some of the best surfing sites in Asia with pristine, unexplored beaches.
Those who find the journey too long or intimidating can take a relatively easier eight-hour trip on the main highway cutting through the Jarawa tribal reserve to reach the town of Diglipur in North Andaman. There is nothing to do in the town as such, but local buses takes you to Kalipur, famed to be the only beach in the world where four species of turtles can be found nesting from December to March. Alex, the friendly owner of Pristine Beach Resort will ensure that you have a comfortable stay. There are many exciting things to be done here, such as swimming to Craggy Islands off the Kalipur beach and checking out the sunrise at the pebbled Lamia Bay. However, I would especially recommend making a day trip to the wonderful Ross and Smith Islands, a wildlife sanctuary. You need a permit to enter, and once you have it, take a speed boat to get there. The unique feature of these islands is that they are connected by a white sandy isthmus that allows you to walk from one island to the other. And what a walk it is! You are surrounded by a calm
blue shallow lagoon on one side and the emerald green sea with splashing waves on the other. Dense green forests line the shore. It is a magical experience. There are sights in the Andamans that will run in your mind like a beautiful album forever. Ross and Smith Islands is one of those sights. Are you simply looking for a laidback, technology-free experience? I suggest you visit Long island in Middle Andaman for at least two to three days. Board a ferry from Yeratta jetty near the quaint town of Rangat. Both locals and tourists use this ferry which takes you through the backwaters, crossing countless uninhabited, densely forested islands. As twilight approaches, these islands turn into silhouettes in the distance, providing a truly ethereal sight. Long Island reminds you of an era gone by with small tin covered houses and a raised cemented platform serving as the main ‘road’ through the island. The island is a fantastic location to discover the blindingly white and pristine beaches of Lalaji Bay, Merk Bay (a 30-minute ferry
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THETRAVELLER ride away) and for diving to discover the joys of the underwater world. You can stay at the unique Blue Planet Resort whose interiors are lovingly done up by its owners Hilary and Aftaar (interesting how they have made creative use of waste bottles washed ashore). The cosy main area is built around a Padduk tree and has books with a well-placed hammock for you to spend hours lazing, reading and contemplating. After a trip through the remote islands of North and Middle Andaman, you would want to soak in the popular islands of Andaman, Havelock and Neil. Havelock with its famous Beach Number 7 and Radhanagar is now a popular tourist hub. What helps is its proximity to Port Blair— just two hours by ferry. Neil Island, though relatively remote, is also fast coming up as a prime tourist spot. If you arrive at Havelock after exploring the unseen gems such as Kalipur beach, Ross and Smith and Long island, you will immediately be stuck by the sheer number of tourists on this island. Big resorts with delicious multi-cuisine restaurants compete with each other, each laying claim to close proximity to a beautiful beach. The island is best explored by hiring a scooter and letting the winds brush your face as you go past virgin beaches and unseen corners. The standout, of course, is the famed Beach Number 7 which some locals claim is the “Best beach in Asia.” I am unable to verify the claim but must admit it is a stunning beach—extremely wide and long with gentle waters; perfect for families and backpackers. A 30-minute walk down one end after crossing a few rocks on the sand leads you to a remote lagoon called ‘Blue Lagoon’. Not as beautiful as the beach itself, it is nonetheless a great place to relax under the trees, go for a swim by oneself and beat the crowds. You can spend a few blissful days at Havelock and Neil, meeting travellers from across the world, hearing their stories, shopping for local handicrafts, trying out different cuisines and just unwinding after a great adventure through the Andaman. And then there is deep sea diving—the piece de resistance! The Andamans has developed as a premier location for deep sea diving. The beautiful corals, tropical sea and the diverse marine life make it a perfect location for amateurs and experienced divers alike. Today, diving courses are offered at Wandoor, Chidiya Tapu, Rutland, Long and Neil islands, to name a few. Those looking for an adventure can even dive around a sea wreck at Chidiya Tapu! A beginner’s
Take a ferry through the backwaters, crossing countless uninhabited, densely forested islands. As twilight approaches, these islands turn into silhouettes in the distance, making for a truly ethereal sight.
Endless - The sea, sky and the lighthouse at Ross island
Walking through the Cellular prison
certificate course takes merely 4-5 days; I would highly recommend that you go for it. The remoteness of Andaman from the mainland has led to fewer opportunities for interaction between the locals and those living on the mainland. The people living on the island are ethnically diverse and extremely friendly, with a keen sense of pride about their beautiful homeland. Great conversations are easy to come by!
Romit Mehta is a consultant at a global development advisory firm based in Mumbai. An avid back packer, he loves to discover new places and people.
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In & Around Dubai Text & Sketches by Viswaprasad Raju
Dubai Skyline: A city rises in the middle of a desert. Dubai’s skyline is not dense, but it’s jaw-dropping nonetheless. It’s growing taller with each passing year. ‘Nothing is impossible’ is an apt tagline for Dubai.
Traditional Attire: Kandura, Kaffiyeh and Agal make the traditional attire. Interesting fact: Traditionally, the Agal was used during the night to hobble a camel.
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Shawarma: 15 different spices go into making your tightly wrapped Shawarma. The fast food of the Middle-East is being lapped up by the world.
SKETCHFEATURE The Burj Khalifa: Largest number of storeys. World’s highest restaurant. Fastest-travelling lift. World’s tallest performing fountain. Highest swimming pool. World’s highest restaurant. Lonely at the top?
The Burj Al Arab: One of the most photographed hotels in the world, The Burj Al Arab, designed by British architect Tom Wright, standing 321 m tall looks like the sail of a dhow. Andre Agassi and Roger Federer played tennis upon it in 2008. Quite an ace this!
Ras Al Khor Sanctuary: Wetland in a desert? Add to it, saline flats, mangroves, small lagoons and pools. That’s Ras Al Khor Wildlife Sanctuary for you! No wonder it is home to over 67 species of birds.
Cabs: The red rooftop taxis are seen everywhere. It’s the most convenient way to move around and marvel at the dream city called Dubai.
March-April 2014 Travel Secrets 67
If You’re Going to
San Francisco…
Take these exciting city secrets along! Our Japan correspondent Ted Grinewich-Yonashiro gathered them on his recent trip there
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oetry readings at the City Lights Bookstore, organic vegetables at the Ferry Building Marketplace, and daily technological advances by new startup companies are just a few things that come to mind when I think of San Francisco—the heart of America’s west coast. Each time I asked someone how they felt about San Francisco, I always heard positive reviews. Thanks to all the fantastic recommendations I gathered, I was able to create a list of places I had to visit, food I needed to taste, and experiences that are unique to this culturally rich city by the bay. Here are my picks of the locals’ picks: We arrived in San Francisco mid afternoon, before our hotel’s check-in time. Rightaway,
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we wanted to grab a light meal while doing something that feels iconic to San Francisco. We went to Crissy Field, a public park in the northern party of the city that is right next to the Golden Gate Bridge. Crissy Field has a cute little cafe called “The Warming Hut” which offers freshly made warm soups, sandwiches, and great coffee ( many vegetarian options are available on their menu). From the café, we got a picture perfect view of the Golden Gate Bridge— that would not have been possible if we were walking across the famous bridge itself. Getting the first photo of our trip as well as a warm meal was a perfect start to the first day in a new city. The next day, our exploration of the city’s hills and various neighborhoods began with a cup of San Francisco’s famous Blue Bottle
Coffee located in the Ferry Building just down the road from Fisherman’s Wharf. The drip coffee from Blue Bottle is made from organic coffee beans that are ground, portioned, and brewed to order. As my partner Nobu and I ordered our coffee, we could see several drip coffees being brewed by a skilled barista with a blonde pixie cut. Nobu got a spicy snicker-doodle cookie to accompany his coffee and it came with the rest of our order wrapped in a brown coffee filter—a trendy way to begin a day in San Francisco. Lunch at the Chowder Hut just outside Boudin’s Sourdough Bakery (http:// www.boudinbakery.com/ ) allowed us to experience two of the Bay Area’s delicacies at one time. Do order the crab chowder in a sourdough bread bowl, which costs less
THETRAVELLER
“The redwoods of the park towered over me as I walked through the cathedral-like forest. Be sure to take two pictures of each scene, one with people and one without”
than $10. The meal will be filling and you get to sample the Bay’s fine crab along with Boudin’s famous sour dough. Try to get a table outside on the patio, even if it is cold— space heaters make the air not so chilly. While we filled our stomachs, we got a great view of the bay itself, as well as Alcatraz, and were able to do some people watching as tourists and locals milled around Fisherman’s Wharf. Muir Woods, located over the Golden Gate Bridge in Marin County, takes a while to get to by car and might take one day to visit if you are staying in the city limits of San Francisco. If you have at least a week, and love nature, the trip is well worth the time. The park is maintained beautifully and full of history, both natural and cultural—plaques can be found along the paths that wind throughout the woods. The deep quiet, even with the number
of people visiting the park, was breathtaking. The redwoods of the park towered over me as I walked through the cathedral-like forest. Be sure to take two pictures of each scene, one with people and one without: it is easy to lose perspective of the immense size of everything without people in the shot. If the weather is chilly, be sure to bundle up—Muir Woods can get quite cold even on a sunny day. Though the Park might be a beautiful place for a picnic, food is not allowed to be brought in. On the day you visit, plan on having a hearty breakfast and an early dinner. In the Northern Bay Area, Sonoma County is known for fantastic wineries and beautiful scenery. Nobu and I stopped at the Hook & Ladder Winery for a complimentary wine tasting. We went through at least six different wines with an easy-going staff who explained
the different flavours of the wine. Since we are not experienced wine connoisseurs, the staff helped us understand wine-tasting vocabulary. The Hook & Ladder Port is a sweet red dessert wine, great sipped after dinner with steak or tomatoes. It also complements a cup of hot cocoa if a bit is poured into the mug. The San Francisco Bay Area has enough culture for almost any niche you can imagine. Planning a vacation that meets your interests will not be difficult. Remember to make reservations early if possible and mark down all the places you want to visit on a map. Parking and traffic are quite treacherous, making it possible to lose several hours driving around if you are not careful. Make the best use of the ferry and the BART, the San Francisco train system, in order to maximize your time and get the most out of your time on the West Coast.
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THE VILLAGE WHERE BANKS & CHURCHES FLOAT... On the bosom of the mighty Amazon river, our correspondent Kristen Cashman stumbled upon a peculiar Peru secret
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t the end of a three-month trip through Latin America, I found myself with an afternoon to spend in Iquitos, Peru. Perched on the banks of the Amazon River, one of the seven natural wonders of the world, and the largest city in the world not accessible by road but only by plane and boat, Iquitos is the country’s jumping-off point for trips upriver to remote jungle lodges. After weeks of solo travel, I was feeling a bit lonely, so I sought out an American Cafe for lunch: The Yellow Rose of Texas. Gerald, the boisterous Texan who ran the place, introduced himself as soon as I sat down and was happy to oblige when I asked him for advice on how to spend the afternoon. “Walk down to the riverfront,” he said, “and hire a boatman to take you on a tour of the floating village of Belen.” Following the map that Gerald had sketched for me on a napkin, I passed through the
70 Travel Secrets March-April 2014
Kristen Cashman, Editor & Writer, California, USA
Belen marketplace, a sprawling bazaar where vendors sold fruit and veg, fish, meat, and eggs, as well as sundry supplies and trinkets. Beyond the market I emerged onto the banks of the river, where my eyes drank in a crowded riverscape of thatched huts floating on the water. Several young men sat by their boats, eager to take visitors on a tour of their village. I negotiated a price with a pair of teenagers who approached me — one lanky and gaunt-faced, in a faded black T-shirt that said “Kool,” and the other compact and muscled, with the deep-set eyes and wide, prominent cheekbones common among the locals. Soon I was seated in their skinny wooden boat gliding along the river. Churches, petrol stations, restaurants, and hundreds of family homes — all were essentially large rafts, tethered to pilings, accessible only by boat. I was surprised to see utility poles with streetlights and electrical wires punctuating the primary thoroughfares.
THETRAVELLER
The people of Belen lived and breathed the river, without solid ground beneath their feet, yet they were part of a greater, twentyfirst-century urban culture. They straddled two worlds — the traditional and the contemporary, the aquatic and the terrestrial — in a way I hadn’t known was possible.
A lovely young woman sat on a dock, shampooing her hair in the river. An old man stood waist-high in the water, brushing his teeth. Groups of children jumped off a dock and wrestled in the opaque brown water. A woman in fetal position napped on a front porch. A group of men in a pub waved and called to me through a window as we passed. Boats zipped by in all directions, some loaded
down with passengers, others piloted by only a child or two. The still water reflected the bright blue sky and puffy clouds above, except where thickets of emerald green aquatic plants pierced the surface from below. My guides pointed out notable buildings to me but otherwise were quiet, our communication limited by my rudimentary Spanish. Every so often, to cool himself off, the lanky one dipped his hat in the river and then placed it back on his head, rivulets streaming down his face. For about an hour they navigated the dug-out canoe through crowded central canals, then skirted the edge of the settlement, then returned me to the launch where they had picked me up. Until that day, when I had imagined Amazonian culture, I pictured shamans and tribespeople in remote jungles, untouched by modern culture. The people of Belen, on the other hand, lived and breathed the river, without solid ground beneath their feet, yet they were part of a greater, twentyfirst-century urban culture. They straddled two worlds — the traditional and the contemporary, the aquatic and the terrestrial — in a way I hadn’t known was possible. Stepping from the boat back onto the cement, I effusively thanked my guides, and said a silent thank you to Gerald for tipping me off to this other face of Iquitos.
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Mini Vacation
Into the Wild
Chitvan Jungle Lodge
I Photos: Shakti Sharma, Sarita Santoshini & Chitvan Jungle Lodge
Lounge
Pool
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alight from a local bus at a small village called Mocha in Madhya Pradesh, looking around for the driver who is supposed to take me to the resort from there. Moments later, he greets me with a grin, quickly launching into a charged-up narrative of his tigerspotting efforts. “There’s a tiger lurking close by,” he breathes. His excitement is contagious. We are more than 50 km away from the core zone of Kanha National Park, yet already seem to be quite close to it, with the concrete world left far behind. I take it as a sign from the wild, inviting me to hurry up and explore its territory. I reach Chitvan Jungle Lodge, a sprawling resort that lies nestled between the village of Samnapur and the buffer zone of Kanha, standing out from the wilderness that surrounds it. Spread across 14 acres, the jungle retreat has been thoughtfully conceptualised around the five elements of nature. Prithvi, Akash and Jal are the elements inspiring the design and décor of the 10 suites and 8 standard rooms, the Common Hall is inspired by Vayu, while the huge dining area and kitchen by the fifth element of Agni. I am ushered by the efficient and chirpy Manager, Ashwini Agarwal, into one of the four Prithvi suites, my abode for the next three days. Adorned in shades of green and beige, the walls are lined with framed photographs of predators staring back at me. Vintage mirrors reflect the golden sunbeams streaming in through a glass wall—a perfect space to catch up on both sleep and that half-read novel. I am informed that I can have lunch either in the high ceiling dining room or in the garden area outside it. I, of course, choose the outdoors. The head chef, Aashish Kumar, spreads out a scrumptious meal made from fresh vegetables that grow in the organic farm surrounding my make-shift dining area. As I quickly indulge in the homely food, Ashwini fills me in about life in Kanha. He set up the resort in 2007, and it was not an easy go—the remote location presented quite a challenge! Today, that is a USP. Guests enjoy the technology-free
MiniVacation
One of Kanha’s best kept secrets, Chitvan Jungle Lodge lets you soak in the rustic wilderness while keeping you snug. Sarita Santoshini loved it.
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Jal Block exterior
Bed room Prithvi Block
Living Room
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Dusk
experience that the resort offers. It helps that the 40 staff members belong to nearby villages, and bring with them a natural friendliness, which keeps guests happy. It is relaxing enough to spend all your time wandering around the lush property or playing with the resident German Shepherd puppies. But push sleep aside at 5:30 am, brave the cold and get yourself on a jeep. You will be too enticed by the green meadows and clear lakes to want to ride away from the enchanting Kanha National Park. I still feel a thrill running down my spine as I share stories about driving from dawn to dusk across narrow forest roads in search of tigers and leopards, and the moment of complete awe at finally having spotted these predators. If luck, however, keeps you from spotting one, you will still have generous sprinklings of the once-endangered Barasingha, Spotted Deer, Langoor, Jungle Babbler and Spotted Dove to capture on your lens. Do go on a morning nature walk with the naturalist, Sanjay Thakre, pushing your way through dense forest cover, learning about spider webs and animal pug marks on your way. Cycling or walking across the neighbouring village of Samnapur, all the way to Bandha Tola, the main source of water in the area, is another interesting option. The village visit gives you glimpses into the life of the many tribes that reside together in the vicinity of the forest, relying on agriculture and wildlife tourism as their main source of income. These villagers willingly share gripping stories of close tiger encounters but brush away my concerns about safety. The forest has been their lifeline for generations, they say. In the company of the locals and unspoilt nature in Chitvan, it is easy to lose track of time. Just don’t get too attached to the healing routine there—the one that involves waking up to the sound of bird songs and gazing at the stars before turning off the bed lamps at night. But the memories of the wild that you carry back, will definitely keep you whistling at your desk for a long time.
MiniVacation
Chitvan Jungle LodgE
Kanha National Park, Madhya Pradesh www.chitvan.com
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Mini Vacation
Leisure Inn Grand Chankaya, Jaipur Reviewed by Surbhi Dhyani
L
eisure Inn Grand Chanakya hotel on Jaipur’s bustling MI Road can easily compete with any luxury hotel in terms of hospitality. Designed with international standards, it is a classy hotel with beautiful, big rooms. The unique selling point of Leisure Inn is the great service and royal treatment they provide to guests. The hotel staff is extremely warm and friendly. A directory of all the important numbers is kept in each room of the hotel. On request, the hotel can also arrange for taxis. The hotel has two running restaurants: Grand Chanakya—A fully vegetarian restaurant and Cafe Viva—all-day dining. If you want to have typical, rich Rajasthani cuisine, the Grand Chanakya restaurant will win you over with its old-world charm and authentic flavours. Rajasthani folk music plays in the background while you enjoy tamatar hare seb ka sorba (soup), Paneer angara, lehsuni corn palak, dal makhni, and paneer butter masala with bajre ki roti. Their in-house kulfi, accented with saffron and dried fruit, is superlative—don’t miss it! Café Viva has a very fresh and pleasing ambience. The restaurant arranges special Indian and international breakfast buffets with options for health lovers, too. Indian, Chinese, Thai, Italian, the restaurant has it all. Hakka noodles, prawns and chicken biryani are must-haves here. The rooftop Arya Bar & Grill offers great views over the city. They serve an array of Mediterranean and Indian tandoori and grilled meat, seafood, and vegetarian specialties, and a variety of desserts. The Kautilya is a huge hall specially designed for weddings or conferences with a capacity of 150 people. The hotel gives you great value for money with several complimentary services such as free wi-fi, tea and coffee making
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MiniVacation
facilities, 24-hour room service, and access to the gymnasium, massage room and business centre. So, whether you are in Jaipur on business or for a quick break, this hotel makes a great stay option. Five star treatment for threestar rates; what more can a budget-conscious traveller want?
Leisure Inn Grand Chanakya
Photos: Leisure Inn Grand Chanakya
4 A-B, Kashi Bhawan, Panch Batti, M.I. Road, Rajasthan 302001, India. Ph:+91 141 4333 333 www.leisureinngrandchanakya.com
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FARAWAY FLAVOURS
THE SENSUAL CUISINE OF THE BALKANS by our Serbia correspondent Anna Rostokina
E Serbian Chateaux
78 Travel Secrets March-April 2014
x-Yugoslavia is the new booming European destination hitting the headlines of travel websites. And while the Balkan countries cannot beat the great cultural heritage and the stunning views of Western Europe, they are branding what they are the best at – their traditional hospitality and the excellent food. They say that Yugoslavia used to have it all, from snow-covered mountains to vast valleys, from great rivers and lakes to the Adriatic coast. In terms of food, a trip around this region is just as exciting and diverse, with the oriental cuisine in the east and the fine central European specialties in the west, the organic vegetables and the delicious lovely home-made groceries in the north and the seafood with a Mediterranean flair in the south. Not only are the goodies fresh and delicious, but the people here truly know how to enjoy food – and they are eager to share their skill. Balkan cuisine is naturally eclectic because the region has experienced so many influences throughout the ages. Ancient Roman culture was the first one to make a significant impact on the local food. At the dawn of the current era, the Romans started olive oil production in what is now Montenegro and Croatia, and the north of Serbia boasts vineyards which date back to those times! In the Middle Ages, the eastern part of the region was conquered by the Ottoman Turks who stayed in the Balkans for five long centuries and cultivated a taste for sensual enjoyment among the local peoples. The westernmost parts of the peninsula have, on the contrary, experienced a number of European influences, from Italian to German, which made their cuisines and gastronomic customs more sophisticated. I believe that the true spirit of the Balkans is in their mountains. As a matter of fact, the very toponym is considered to have been derived from the Turkish word “balakan”, which stands for a forested mountain. Life is tough in the highlands, the people are
thefoodie
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Ajvar
unpretentious and straightforward, and so are the meals on their tables. The food is simple but it will warm up your stomach and your heart. Meat is the main ingredient: grilled, baked or smoked. In Christian countries they mainly eat pork, while Muslims prefer beef. There are about half a dozen meat specialties known under the common title of “roštilj” or “skara”, which comes from the name of the specific type of grill on which these meals are prepared. The most popular one, called ćevap (derived from the Turkish kebab), has quite a peculiar geography. Several Balkan cities compete for the title of the Balkan ćevap capital. Leskovac in Serbia, which is famed for its superb roštilj, is just the right place to experience the oriental passion for food at its greatest. When in this southern town, be prepared for the ultimate gourmet experience called “the Leskovac train.” It is a course of five different meat specialties that waiters bring in one after another, which in a way reminds one of train coaches. Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, also is a synonym for excellent roštilj. When in Baščaršija, the old Turkish bazaar of this city, don’t miss the opportunity to try local ćevaps, served in a bun, with a hearty lot of sliced chopped onions and a spoonful of kajmak, a traditional dairy product. Banja Luka, in the north of Bosnia and Herzegovina, has its own distinctive ćevap variety mainly known for its shape: several kebabs stick together to form small rectangular portions of meat. Even if you can’t feel the difference in the taste, it is still worth trying out of mere curiosity. Another traditional Balkan specialty is roasted meat. When driving in mountainous areas such as Montenegro, you will see numerous signs of roadside eateries offering roasted mutton, which evoke memories of the old times when travelling in this part of the world was a time-consuming and a tiresome activity but at least pilgrims could count on a slice of meat and a piece of bread by an open fire at the end of the day. These days, no Balkan festivity is complete without roasted pork, lamb or beef. The carcass of the animal is seasoned with salt and roasted whole on a spit, then cut into small pieces. Unlike roasts in other cultures, in the Balkans this type of 80 Travel Secrets March-April 2014
meat is often eaten cold, which is understandable because no good celebration lasts for less than two days. Still, it is not all about meat-eating. Actually up to the 20th century meat was expensive and it used to be a special treat for most families. Besides, the Orthodox nations have periods of fasting, or abstinence from all food of animal origin. The most authentic vegetarian Balkan dish are baked beans. It is such a basic meal that when Serbs want to say that something is simple they call it “as simple as beans.” This dish comes under a number of different names depending on the country but the essence is the same: white beans cooked with onions and then oven-baked in a ceramic pot with an appropriate seasoning. What gives them their remarkable taste is the red pepper. In autumn months the villages in the south of the Balkans brighten up with countless pepper garlands being dried in the sun – a sight widely admired by photographers. Red bell peppers are the main ingredient of ajvar, a popular relish eaten either as a side dish or a sauce. Besides roasted pepper, it may contain eggplants, garlic and chili peppers. The preparation of ajvar involves a lot of time and manual labor, especially the roasting and the peeling of the peppers. That is why it is an excellent opportunity for families and friends to gather. At the end of the process everybody gets a stock of glass jars filled with a bright orange sauce to remind them of the sunny days in the coming winter months. Then there are the pies. Made of delicate paper-thin dough, layered with different fillings, crunchy on the outside and juicy inside, they are the typical Balkan breakfast, complete with yoghurt or sour milk. The most common filling is minced meat or cheese. Such pies are called burek, one more name borrowed from Turkish. Other popular varieties are include potatoes, spinach, mushrooms, cabbage and pumpkin. There are also sweet pies filled with cherries, apples, plums, walnuts, etc. Probably the most sophisticated of all is the branded Slovenian pastry prekmurska gibanica, or Prekmurian cake, which contains ricotta, apples, walnuts, raisins and poppy seeds. As far as pastry is concerned, I cannot skip the Macedonian pastrmajlija. An oval-shaped bread and meat pie which originally comes from Turkish cuisine, it is a great oriental pizza alternative, simple but rich and tasty. The mountainous parts of the Balkans are home to delicious cheese and dairy products. Every region has its own cheese variety with specific features such as shape, density, and, of course, taste. One of the most widely-appreciated cheeses comes from the Croatian island of Pag, where sheep feed on sage, which gives the milk a specific taste. more dairy must-try is kajmak, a milk product with creamy texture and a tender, slightly salty taste. It is used as a surplus ingredient in many Balkan dishes, from cornmeal to grilled meat. On the Adriatic coast, in Montenegro and Croatia, they often put an extra touch on the local cheeses by keeping them in olive oil, often with herbs, to give them a delicate taste.
thefoodie
“Made of delicate paper-thin dough, layered with different fillings, crunchy on the outside and juicy inside, pies are the typical Balkan breakfast, complete with yoghurt or sour milk”
Burek
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Baked Beans
Baklava
Paskir
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The coast has historically been the gateway for European influences. Here you will find traces from Central European and Mediterranean cuisines, as well as authentic dishes which the local fishermen have been mastering for centuries. One thing is for sure — there is plenty of excellent fresh fish and seafood such as squid, shrimp and mussels. When in Slovenia, Croatia and Montenegro, don’t miss the local smoked ham called pršut. The name obviously comes from the Italian prosciutto but the taste is somewhat different. Actually every region boasts its own variety of this delicatesse and they are all worth trying. Pršut is said to be the best starter (alongside with cheese and olives) to go with the local red wines. And from dining to wining – Balkan drinks may not have the delightful bouquets and the excquisite fragrances of those French or Spanish but they are certainly the best match for the local food. And while you are enjoying the mix of tastes, every sip of wine will tell you a story little something about the soil on which the grapes had riped and the centuries that the vineyards have seen. If you are keen on dessert wines, make sure to try bermet, the much-appraised specialty of northern Serbia’s Fruška Gora wine region. It owes its intricate taste to the maceration of 20 different herbs and spices and the recipe is held in secret by a handful of local families. However it is not the wines that tell the most about the Balkans but the traditional strong spirits commonly called rakija, a brandy made from fruit such as grapes, plums, pears, apples and quince. Some rare varieties include raspberry and mulberry, but the truly traditional rakija flavors are plum and grape. Home produce makes a large portion of the rakija market and many families are proud of their century-long brewing traditions. In fact, rakija is often referred to as the “liquid soul” of the Balkans. A tour around the cuisines of Ex-Yugoslavia would be incomplete without an insight into the Balkan “dolce vita”: the exciting blend of oriental and European desserts. The oldschool sweet shops in the southeast of the Balkans feature traditional Turkish pastry soaked in honey or sugar syrup, usually eaten with a cup of strong coffee or a glass of boza, a flour-based drink with a rather unusual taste. The most celebrated sweet is probably the baklava, which can have as many as 70 layers of filo pastry filled with chopped nuts, raisins or cherries. In the west and the north of the Balkans, where the local cuisines have been influenced by those of Austria and Hungary, you will find a wide range of strudels, rolled cakes and kuchens. My favourite dessert from this part of Europe are the sweet plum dumplings, which are surprisingly delicious for something so simple. Wherever you go in the Balkans, you are likely to come across delightful local specialties and peculiar interpretations of wellknown dishes. People here have a strong taste for life and its pleasures, big and small. And food is a crucial component of their existence, an integral part of all major life events, from a person’s birth to their funeral. That is why discovering the taste of the Balkans in a way means unveiling their true essence.
thefoodie
Cevapcici speck, a minced meat sausage
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Taste Notes Your across-theglobe guide to good food and great spirits
In Ireland
Have a zebra burger @ Sawers
Game for some rattlesnake? A slice of camel, perhaps? If exotic dishes titillate your taste buds, walk into Sawers, a wildly popular gourmet store in the heart of Belfast. The menu features zebra, rattlesnakes, camel, bison, kangaroo burgers, steaks and more. Adventurous diners have savoured this stuff at Sawers for over 116 years now. Not into exotica? There’s caviar and foie gras on the go. Try the tapenades, sample some cheese—the award-winning Sawers makes them in-house, too. For about Rs 2500, you can get a hamper for the folks back home. A side of crocodile steak for me! (www.sawersbelfast.com) -Shubhra Krishan
In Poland
Pick a Pierogi
Widely billed Poland’s National Dish, this doughy delight can be enjoyed on the streets and in “pierogarnia” restaurants that specialise in making it. Unleavened wheat flour is kneaded into a dough, rolled out thinly, and filled with something savoury or sweet. So far, so simple. But it is in the choice of fillings that the petite Pierogi blows you away! Meat, potatoes, strawberries, onions, spinach, cherries, cheese, sauerkraut, blueberries—take your pick! Chefs like to serve pierogi with sour cream or butter, and garnish it with small pieces of bacon, onions or mushrooms. Fast fact: the word ‘pierogi’ is plural, indicating that you are never meant to eat only one at a time. Smacznego! (That’s Polish for ‘bon appetit’). -Megha Uppal
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THEFOODIE
In Maharashtra
Delve into a Dabeli
Looks like a bun, and tastes like one too. But methinks the humble dabeli scores over its more popular cousin, the vada pav, in the flavour department. It’s got the crunch of peanuts, the tang of tamarind, a citrusy burst of pomegranate, the sweetness of dates and much else in between. Dabeli originated in Kutch, Gujarat. In honour of that fact, it is often called ‘Kutchi Dabeli,’ but with its genius for sandwichcraft, the Mumbai street vendor has given it new, exciting dimensions. (If you are lucky, you might stumble upon a stall that serves cheese dabeli or sev dabeli). March-April 2014 Travel Secrets 85 - Megha Uppal
IN MUMBAI
Go to Ayaz’s for Kebabs
Ayaz’s in West Bandra serves you perfectly grilled delicacies in Mumbai. Huddled amongst several restaurants and clubs, the eatery dishes up Chicken Reshmi Kebabs that will make you ignore the more fancy competitors. Pick a plate of Mutton Seekh Kebabs with it, and team them with Ayaz’s signature Baida Roti—a delicious, filling dinner is ready. Owner Ishtiyaq Mansuri runs this hot-selling stall with three cooks who efficiently cater to ravenous club-goers and other foodies till midnight. Vegetarians can dig into the Paneer Tikka, served with roasted capsicum and onions. Also, make sure to try their Hyderabadi Dum Biryani, prepared and served only during weekends. A veritable feast for just between Rs 90-130! - Sarita Santoshini
IN BANGALORE
Root for the Bhoochakra Gadda
I have often spotted carts selling something long and thick, like a tree trunk, here and there, in Bangalore. Curious passersby stop their vehicles for a closer look, and some even ask the vendor what it was. A few can be spotted relishing thin slices of the trunk-like thing, while a few others just nod their heads politely and walk away. I was curious about it, too, but I never asked or tasted it. I spotted a push cart selling it a few days ago, and dared to stop for a taste. The vendor sawed off a couple of extremely thin slices of the thing, cut them into large-ish pieces, doused them liberally with sugar and lemon juice, and handed them to me wrapped in a bit of newspaper. I took a hesitant first bite out of one piece, and….it was just beautiful. It was sweet, woody, lemon-y—all in one. It tasted like a cross between a water chestnut and tender coconut pulp. Needless to say, I slurped it all up, and even got some for the people at home to taste. The vendor told me that it is a root, and that they call it ‘bhoochakra gadda’ (‘bhoochakra’ means ‘the cycle of the earth’ and ‘gadda’ is ‘root’). Vendors in Bangalore typically get it from the foothills of Baba Budangiri in Chikkamagalooru. A quick Internet search showed me that the root belongs to a small bush with strongly scented flowers, which goes by the scientific name of ‘Maerua Oblongifolia’. The root is edible, and is supposed to have medicinal properties. It helps in quenching thirst, is used as a stimulant, and is also helpful in healing snake bites and scorpion stings! I suspect it would have a cooling effect on the body as well. I am so not going to hesitate before getting myself a few more slices, whenever I spot a ‘bhoochakra gadda’ guy the next time. Have you tried this out? - courtesy The Girl Next Door (Blog) http://thegalnxtdoor.wordpress.com/
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THEFOODIE
IN ASSAM
Feast on Sour Fish Curry
Masor Tenga or Sour Fish Curry is a traditional Assamese fish curry enjoyed both as a daily meal and during hearty feasts. It gets its sourness from either tomatoes or lemon or both. Fish harvested from the region’s lakes and rivers is cooked in mustard oil and turmeric. It is usually served with steamed rice and aloo pitika or seasoned mashed potato, often on the side of duck or pork curry. This fuss-free fish dish is best enjoyed in summer for its refreshing taste. In the capital city Guwahati, make sure you order a Parampara Thali at Paradise restaurant. At Rs.450, the thali features Masor Tenga and sundry other local specialties. And if you can’t wait till you are there, the same chain of restaurants also runs Jakoi, popularly known as Assam Bhawan in Delhi. - Sarita Santoshini
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STAR RECIPE
One for the
Vegan
Exotic Vegetables with Almonds Recipe by John Abraham 2-3 servings Ingredients 1 packet (200 gms) mushrooms 1 head broccoli 1 zucchini 3 to 4 leaves of bok choy 6-8 garlic cloves. 1 tbsp slivered almonds 1 tsp oil (optional) 2 to 3 tsp light soy sauce Freshly ground black pepper to taste Salt to taste
Method
Exotic Vegetables with Almonds
- - - - - - -
- - -
- -
Anuradha Sawhney
- - -
Wash all the vegetables. Cut the mushrooms into quarters. Break or cut the broccoli into bite-sized florets. Do not peel the zucchini. Cut it into 2 lengthwise, then cut into 1” pieces. Break the bok choy into 3 pieces each. Peel the garlic and crush it lightly using a mortar and pestle. . Blanch the almonds, till the skins are wrinkled. Peel and cut them into fine slivers. You should have about 1 tbsp of slivered almonds. Put a non-stick pan over moderate heat and add the oil (optional). When hot, add the garlic and sauté for 1 minute. Add the mushrooms, broccoli and zucchini. Raise the heat to high, stir well and cover the pan. Let the vegetables steam for about 2-3 minutes. The mushrooms will release water in which they will cook. Be careful not to overcook the vegetables. Open the pan and continue to cook, till the water starts to evaporate. Add the bok choy, almonds and soy sauce. Stir-fry for 1 minute. Remove from heat and add the pepper. Taste and add salt only if needed as the soy sauce is salty. Serve hot with steamed brown rice
(Excerpted from Anuradha Sawhney’s book: The Vegan Kitchen: Bollywood Style!)
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PHOTO: ATUL KASBEKAR
THEFOODIE
Who are vegans? Vegans are people who don’t eat meat. Or eggs. Or cheese. Or mayonnaise. Or honey. Or whey. Or gelatin. Or anything that comes from or includes an animal. Veganism is an extreme form of vegetarianism. Though the term was coined in 1944, the concept of fleshavoidance can be traced back to ancient Indian and eastern Mediterranean societies. Vegetarianism is first mentioned by the Greek philosopher and mathematician Pythagoras of Samos around 500 BC. In addition to his theorem about right triangles, Pythagoras promoted benevolence among all species, including humans. March-April 2014 Travel Secrets  89
Source: Time magazine
DISH FULFILLMENT
Strawberries and vanilla cream rolled in a slab of freshly baked sponge cake, sprinkled with sugar and love. Mouth watering yet?
Strawberry Swiss Roll
L
ast summer, Team TS stopped by at Broadslap Farm in the heart of Perthshire, Scotland. The strawberries were juicy, the countryside air was delicious. Pity we couldn’t dish up this delicate dessert right there. But summer is at our doorstep again, and cafetarias all over Europe will be serving this divine dessert. Better still, if you have the chance to go strawberry picking, bake it at home and enjoy it with your sweetheart. Strawberry Swiss Roll Serves: 12 For the sponge • 4 egg yolks • grated zest of 1 lemon • ¾ cup caster sugar • 4 egg whites • 1 pinch of salt • 1 cup plain flour • 2/3 cup corn-flour • 1 teaspoon baking powder For the filling • 500-750g fresh strawberries • lemon juice • sugar for the strawberries • 1 ¾ cups of cream • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Recipe adapted from Allrecipes.co.uk Location & Dessert Courtesy: Pullman Gurgaon Central Park 90 Travel Secrets March-April 2014
Beat egg yolks with lemon zest until foamy and gradually add in 2/3 of the sugar. Beat the egg whites with 4 tablespoons of cold water and salt until stiff. Add the rest of the sugar. Fold the egg whites into the egg yolks. Sieve the flour, corn-flour and baking powder into a bowl and fold in the egg mixture. Preheat the oven to 160 C. Line a Swiss roll tin with baking parchment and spread the cake mixture evenly over it. Bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes (possibly reducing the temperature to 120 C after 5 minutes). Meanwhile, chop up the strawberries. Macerate them in a bowl with sugar and lemon juice. Sprinkle a tea towel with the sugar and flip the baked sponge onto it. Remove the baking parchment and roll up the sponge while still warm and allow cooling. Unroll the sponge carefully. Then apply a layer of whipped cream (beaten with vanilla) and finally spread the marinated strawberries over it. Carefully roll up the sponge again. Place the Swiss roll on a plate with the seam down. Garnish with cream and strawberry halves. Leave to set for a few hours in the fridge before serving.
THEFOODIE
BAKER’S TIP
Photo: Nitin Gopal Srivastava
Before applying the layer of whipped cream and strawberries, you can add a thin layer of pineapple or maple jam or syrup for a more intense taste.
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EATING OUT
HOT NEW TABLES:
TASTED!
Food reviews from Delhi and Mumbai
ZERUCCO BY ZILLI, DELHI Ashok Hotel, Diplomatic Enclave, 50B Chanakyapuri Reviewed By Shubhra Krishan Cuisine: Mediterranean, Classic Italian The Experience: The USP of the interestingly named Zerucco by Zilli is its sunlit, spacious feel. You are in the heart of the city here, minutes away from the buzz and business, and yet, in a world of your own as you savour the lovingly composed and beautifully presented food. Aldo Zilli, celebrity chef, restaurateur and author, is the man behind the stunning flavours at Zerucco. The signature of the great chef is evident with the arrival of the first course; steaming hot Minestrone Soup—an ordinary dish that tastes so authentic you are transported to Italy. The Eggplant Parmigiana is gorgeous to look at and luscious to eat! And not ordering the creamy Mushroom Risotto would be a shame. Finally, don’t even think of declining dessert: the Tiramisu is mmm... Meal for two: Rs 3,000++ 3-point Impression: Spacious. Laid-back. Luscious.
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THEFOODIE
TOWN HOUSE CAFE, MUMBAI 16 Murzban Road, near Sterling Cinema, Fort Reviewed By Sarita Santoshini Cuisine: European On the Menu: Blue frog and Jealous eve to drink; BBQ Chicken wings, Haloumi crostini, Sea food bucket, Sea food capellini and Chicken roulade. The Experience: The new all-day European bar and grill creates a good first impression with its chandeliers, vintage ad posters and dimly lit interiors. The menu, as the coowner Avi Mittal puts it, is extensive and has a good variety for all kinds of foodies. Their signature cocktails set the mood right from the very first sip. I ordered a Jealous Eve which was an innovative take on green apple vodka with a hint of spice. Singing along to the classic rock playlist, I immediately dug into the delicious-looking food being served in good quantity and without any delay .The sea food bucket had crunchy bits of both prawns and calamari and went well with drinks without being too heavy. I especially liked the Chicken Roulade that served as a perfect end to the European feast. Meal for two: Rs. 1500 plus tax 3-point Impression: Classic. Variety. Trendy.
March-April 2014 Travel Secrets  93
SAKURA, DELHI The Metropolitan Hotel & Spa, Gole Market Reviewed By Asutosh Lohia Cuisine: Japanese On the Menu: Inamame, Horensogomai and Tofu Kimchi for starters, a wide variety of sushi for main course with Tori Karaage and Wasai Croquet, Yaki Soba, onion salad and dumplings. The Experience: Even if you fear raw fish, don’t like sushi or are vegetarian, Sakura will seduce you with its exciting Japanese cuisine. I am vegetarian and I loved it! What with soy pods (Inamame) and blanched spinach (Horesogomai) and tofu kimchi, the vegetarian offerings promised a gourmet feast. Even my non-vegetarian companion could not resist tasting them. With a creative beginning such as this, I couldn’t stop wanting more. My Japanese prejudice bubble about raw salmon and tuna sushi finally burst when a platter of vegetarian sushi was placed in front of me. Though they were not as imaginative or exciting as the non-veg sushi, I liked the simple taste of Seaweed rolls with a great Wasabi sauce.
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One of the house specialties is Nigri Sushi with raw tuna and salmon, and you must taste ‘California’ rolls which have caviar on the outside and crabs and prawns inside. The highlight of the evening was Tori Karaage which is boneless deep-fried chicken served with citrus and Miso sauce, sweet onions and radishes. It was crispy, delicious and very pleasing. The vegetarian Yasai Croquet (mashed potato and cream, deep-fried) was appealing and tasted even better with Tonkapsu sauce (fruit-flavoured miso). They served Japanese rice wine Sake throughout dinner. I have tried a variety of dumplings before, but the Yasai Gyoza managed to surprise me to the core. These simple onion and cabbage filled dumplings are steamed and then pan-grilled—adding flavour and aroma. Then there’s Yaki Soba, Ramen noodles that were too plain to interest me, but for spaghetti lovers, totally worth trying! They served house-made ice cream for dessert and I was stunned
THEFOODIE
with the flavours. Black sesame seed and green tea flavoured icecreams were still imaginable, but the unusual ‘rajma’ or kidney-bean flavoured ice cream blew my mind. A must try for all Punjabis. All in all, the food is great. They could work a little on the ambience though. The restaurant looks corporate and basic and has barely any Japanese element in it, which I missed. The staff is welcoming and friendly. If you don’t know much about Japanese cuisine, ask them, they’ll help you pick your flavour. Meal for two: Rs.1500++ 3-point Impression: Intriguing. Delicious. Different.
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GROUND ZERO, MUMBAI C’est La Vie, 164, Hill Road, Bandra West, Mumbai Reviewed by Sachin Krishn & Shruti Mahajan Cuisine: Italian, Continental On the Menu: Tomato risotto, Alio Olio, Club sandwich, The Experience: Located bang in the middle of the throbbing Hill Road, Bandra, this unassuming lounge is the kind of place you could just walk into, whether in your snooty LV shoes or simple hawai chappals. It does take time to reconcile to the fact that you have travelled all the way from Versova to come here to what is only a slightly bigger version of a friend’s drawing room, but once you take one of the tucked-away high tables and order your booze and starters, the simplicity and the warmth of the place begin to set in. If you are looking for a menu that is not intimidating on the right hand column, look no further. If you are looking for a place that serves up some delectable starters (the tandoori mushrooms and the pasta in pesto sauce are simply divine) to go along with the well stocked selection of tipples, you’ve come to the right place. And oh, the service-with-a-smile comes at no extra cost. The four high tables are ideal for a friendly chat or a cosy conversation, and the sofa seating can accommodate some boisterous gangs with ease and comfort. One cannot help thinking this would be the ideal place to hire for a private party, the next time the better half is in a foul mood over moi not putting in enough effort for her upcoming birthday party. The one dampener is the lack of any valet parking, a veritable sacrilege in a place like Mumbai, but the dilapidated compound that houses Ground Zero does accommodate a few of those luxury automatics. A hard day can be forgotten at this casual lounge, which belts out some loud, throbbing music of all kinds as one sits, beating the grime, dust and noise outside and enjoying its rather extended Happy Hours. All in all, the little place scores for its simplicity, unassuming ambience, and the alert and friendly staff. Ground Zero could, in fact, well have been called Down-to-Earth. Meal for two: Rs 1200 ++ 3-point Impression: Casual. Cosy. Cool.
96 Travel Secrets March-April 2014
THEFOODIE TURQUOISE COTTAGE, DELHI MA 03, Restaurant Block, District Centre, DLF Place, Saket, New Delhi Reviewed By Shubhra Krishan Cuisine: Pan Asian On the Menu: Chicken Satay, Peri Peri Fish, Grilled Prawns with lemon butter sauce, Murgh Tikka Zafrani, Tandoori Pomfret The Experience: TC, as everyone knows it, needs no introduction to the typical ‘Delhiite.’ One goes there to let those tangled hair down, cosy up with friends, kick back a cocktail or three, and dig into the comfort of chilli potatoes and noodles. So that is what I did couple of weeks ago, and TC did not disappoint. You enter its music-filled, den-like cocoon and are quickly cushioned from the outside world. You are in good company here; young couple mostly, out for a good time, generously spreading the ‘chilled out’ vibe! The food. Hmm. A good word for it is ‘decent,’ considering it makes no pretention to be of the snobbish, gourmet variety. They do nice salads and dips, good khao suey, comforting curry and rice. They serve crispy calamari rings that wash down well with your drinks, and crispy lotus stems, crunchy corn and soft corn cakes for the veggie brigade. You come to TC for good music, good drinks, and a good time, and if all of that leaves time to pay attention to the food, you won’t have complaints here! Meal for two: Rs 1400 with alcohol 3-point Impression: Vibrant. Current. Relaxing.
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LASTWORD
What’s it like to be...
A strawberry in Scotland “I blush when they bend over me, press me between their fingers, and exclaim over my lush beauty. One of those besotted British poets—William Butler I think his name was—even went so far as to exclaim, “Doubtless God could have made a more beautiful berry, but doubtless God never did...” Speaking for myself, I could not have chosen a better place to be born. Some of my tribe, I know, grow in lonesome pots in cramped London balconies. But I bloom here, pampered by the free Scottish breeze and the full Scottish sun. Around me, blazing rapeseed flowers grow, bees hum, black and blue berries squirt their dark juice onto hungry thumbs. What more can one ask for, of life? To be born in beauty, bloom into fruity fullness, and melt into deliciousness, ideally atop home-churned ice-cream? It’s a berry nice life, thank you. Lusting for me? Turn to page 90 for a luscious Strawberry Swiss Roll recipe.”
98 Travel Secrets March-April 2014
In The Next Issue:
kenya Land of magical beauty
RNI Number DELENG/2012/47061
Our summits are accessible to all. Thanks to 670 mountain railways.