Travel Secrets Magazine by Travel Secrets magazine

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Know before you go!

Cover Story:

Vagabonds we love

3 besotted locals spill their best-kept city secrets

PLUS:

FRANCE

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ST.PETERSBURG

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LUBLIN

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KOLKATA

FIRSTwORdS

o check out our brand new website,

where we have presented Travel Secrets in a fresh, fun avatar. We’re delighted to have a faithful band of followers on Instagram. In tune with the times, we are focussing on and totally enjoying our digital platforms, and hope you will, too. This year, we plan to travel thousands of unexplored miles, so we can bring you little-known travel stories, ideas and tips from all over the world. Our love of the offbeat and the uncharted grew into a mission: #1MillionTravelSecrets. Day after exciting day, we invite people from all over the world to tell us one travel secret each. College students, homemakers on their way to buy daily bread, executives, designers, men and women from the armed forces—most of them are glad to tell us where they have been and what they have seen. If you have a secret to share, please write to us on travelsecretsmag@gmail.com. If we like it, we’ll share it ahead—in the magazine as well as on our social media. Let me end my piece—and begin this issue—with a

Making Our First Million

beautiful Irish blessing: May the road rise to meet you, May the wind be always at your back, May the sun shine warm upon your face, The rains fall soft upon your fields and, Until we meet again, May God hold you in the palm of His hand. Safe travels, and happy times.

Shubhra Krishan, Publisher & Editor

ts secrets Know before you go!

LUST LIST

DRIFT AWAY

A picture is worth a thousand words, and when you turn the page, you will find that it is also worth a million sighs...

September-October 2019 Travel Secrets 7

Île d’Orléans, Quebec, canada Just 15 minutes from downtown Québec City, opposite Montmorency Falls, Île d’Orléans is definitely worth a visit! driving across the only bridge, visitors are quick to fall under the spell of an island where farming and all forms of agriculture thrive year round. A trip around Île d’Orléans is a delightful way to discover the surrounding countryside at your leisure.

8 Travel Secrets September-October 2019

Meet Dan:

On the Road 1467 Miles, And Counting

aniel is obsessed with exploring the world, meeting amazing people (and goats) and getting as lost as possible with his camera. He was on the road for 1467 days between 2014 – 2018, taking a chance on changing his career from restaurants to capturing the world and somehow it all worked out. Why goats: Haha, I love that goats have become my signature thing! I just love how easy going they are, eating, sleeping and climbing everywhere. It was in Oman I really fell in love with them, and my profile photo came from. I just find them to be amusing animals. Your most exhilarating travel moment:

Hiking the Lares Trek in Peru was pretty incredible. It was my first multi-day hike and the landscapes and history were impressive, though tough with the altitude. Watching sunrise in Bagan from a hot air ballon, although not tough, was seriously exhilarating. Seeing the countless temples from above in the mist really took my breath away. Your best-kept travel secret: This is a tough one, as somewhere which is a secret one day can quickly not be with social media. I think Raja Ampat, a remote collection of islands in Indonesia and home to the most bio-diversity in the world would still be my top pick. Transport and arrangements to get there

are still harder than many places, so although a few images of it keep appearing online, it’s very much a gem still where internet and electric are limited, and the nature is out of this world. The most bizarre dish you’ve ever tasted: Guinea Pig in Peru was a weird one for me, though it didn’t taste too unusual. In China I certainly ate a few things that I’m sure were pretty unique— most the time I wasn’t sure what I was eating! A hair-raising moment: I went out on a hike in Salzburg many years ago and it was icy and slippy. Stupidly, I was very new to travel and did not have the right shoes on and was travelling solo. I slipped

VAGABONDS WE LOVE

while trying to take a photo and was clinging on to the barriers so I wouldn’t fall from the mountain edge. Luckily, a German hiker passing by helped me back up, but it was one of those ‘life flashing before your eyes’ moments. If you had to stay in one city for one full year, no exit allowed, which one would you pick and why: This is a tough question, not because I’d want to move on, but because there are so many places I would love to live. Sydney is certainly a city I could spend a year in, as you have the beaches, the nature, a great city and a good quality of life, although it’s certainly not cheap! One island where you’d happily stay marooned, and why: Mauritius or Dominica would both be pretty perfect places to be marooned, not only do you have incredible beaches, but they also offer plenty of hikes, nature and culture to keep you entertained. My worst nightmare would be a little sand island, say the Maldives, as I would go crazy pretty quickly! Travellers you admire: There are many I know who aren’t known, or famous, but keep on exploring every little corner of the world. They might not be shouting about it on blogs or social media, but I think that allows a much more intimate form of travel, and people to go places that are harder to access. Those are the people I admire, that can truly get into the wild and keep on exploring.

Vacation + Volunteer Work: Both Are Possible At PossiVille, Himachal

ummers had just begun. Dreading the heat and dust, I called a friend who is always doing something offbeat. She suggested a place in the hills where I could volunteer. That’s how I discovered PossiVille, a community farm-cumbackpacker’s hostel situated on a naked cliff in a village called Kumarhati near Manali in Himachal Pradesh, India. The first sight of PossiVille had me awestruck. It stood by the road side with great pride; the highway rolling and stretching infinitely till the top of the mountains, and bunch of clouds of mists slowly passing by. Comparatively, the hostel wasn’t huge but seemed very much alive, as if playing to its own musical beats in the silence. Inside, a cheerful man greeted me. Shubham owns the place and also looks after the volunteering part. After a little chit chat, I went straight to my dormitory and chose a bed right next to a huge window. The building stands atop a stepped farm, so the yawning ditch below can seem a bit scary, but the view from my window was breathtaking and refreshing. Also, because of the ditch it seemed like I was up in the air amongst the clouds, probably riding on one them and flying through the valleys. I spent my entire first day in just dreaming and sleeping. Next morning when I woke up, all I could see was translucent clouds wandering around my room, as if trying to fill in the empty spaces. I felt like I was floating in heaven! After I was done stretching and washing up, I met three other volunteers who, unlike me, were on a yearlong holiday and a mission to tour extensively across India. Two of them – Shruti and Ricalrus had left their corporate jobs and were here to start their mission ‘Explore India.’ Akanksha, just like me, wanted to stay in mountains for a while and have fun.

EDITOR’S PICKS

Interestingly, unlike any other hostel volunteering, Shubham has a complete structure ready for a monthlong engagement. Things right from cleaning, dusting, cooking, farming, guests handling are on the to-do list. You can also work on your personal project, be it painting, woodcraft or writing. So Shruti and I became the kitchen bearers and were responsible for cooking meals for volunteers, till the end of the month. According to the time table, from morning till three in the afternoon, we engaged ourselves with allotted duties and worked on our personal projects. While we fumbled, we fell, we got muddy, we smiled, we laughed, and we weaved prized memories of our own, the first half always brimmed out with fun. The rest of the evening was left to us to do whatever we wished to. It didn’t take me even a single day to settle down in this land of mountains and clouds. Soon, the scent of wet plants and the cold touch of freezing wind became a part of me. The locals out there in the villages quickly became good friends. Often, as a part of their daily greetings, we would get freshly plucked apricots, plums and peaches! Also, would you believe? Every morning we would wake up to the melodies of Yellow-bellied Fantails and Longtailed Minivets. Unfortunately, I had to cut short my stay at PossiVille because I got the news that my place in Delhi had been burgled. I wish I could have stayed at least for a month and collected many more memories. But whatever it was, those five days in PossiVille were unforgettable! Text & Photos: Skand Agrawal

How do I Get a Better Hotel Room Without Paying Extra?

HOTEL SECRETS Scout for soft openings: New hotels are generally keener to please, so check out hot new properties on hotelchatter.com, and pick up the phone! Time your trip right: big city hotels have lower occupancy on the weekend, so that’s when your chances of getting an upgrade are higher. In leisure properties, weekends are packed, so try and travel mid-week. Do some research and call the hotel in advance: Check

out the property on-line, and identify the rooms and suites you like. Then write an email or make a phone call to request one of those rooms, even if they show non-available on-line. Remember, cancellations happen all the time. Spell out exactly what you’re looking for: Don’t vaguely say, ‘May I have a better room.’ Much better to ask for a room with a view, or a bigger suite, or whatever it is that you’re looking for.

Don’t book the cheapest room: go for a mid-range suite, so that you can be bumped up to a really nice one. Check in between 3 to 5 pm: Most rooms are given out during this period, so the front office is surer of cancellations and availability. Dress to impress: No need to turn up in a tuxedo, of course. Just be well-groomed—it will earn you more points than a sloppy, bedraggled appearance. Be Nice: Hotel staff get to deal with some really pesky and nasty sorts. Strike a difference with your politeness. If the manager does award you an upgrade, let him/her know you’ll be happy to commend them in the Feedback Form. Play the emotional card: tell them you’re visiting on a special occasion. Tell them you love the hotel, and that it’s your third visit here (they’re not going to pull out records). It works like a charm. (Just don’t tell them you read it here). Turn a glitch to your advantage: Baggage reached your room late? Faucet leaking? Request management to upgrade your room, in exchange for a No Complaints.

Montcalm Royal London House: A Glamorous Gem of a Hotel

40 Travel Secrets September-October 2019

HOTEL REVIEW

e spent two wonderful nights at the the Montcalm Royal London House – City of London. A quick 5-minute walk from Liverpool station, it is located on Finsbury Square, which is a quiet stretch in itself, but some of London’s hippest and most happening attractions are only a heartbeat away. That’s exactly how we like our city hotels to be! So, to the south, you have St Paul’s, the Thames and the soaring towers of the City. To the north, the galleries, bars and

boutiques of trend-setting Shoreditch. The Barbican Centre is a short stroll from the hotel, so no changing tubes to go catch a late-evening performance. This used to be the Royal Mail head office, an imposing listed building. Today, the hotel has transformed the space with signature Montcalm touches such as copper pipe lighting, exposed brick walls, original reclaimed parquet flooring, silk-lined corridors, feature staircases and turquoise leather stools.

Your beautifully appointed room gets a nice slice of slanting sun and overlooks a quiet garden, dotted with colourful blossoms. The suites are designed for max comfort, and the cosiness of your bed suggests a conspiracy to keep you tucked in all day! And if you plan to do just that, stay connected with the outside world in style. The hotel The hotel, we’re told, is the first in the UK to offer 10 GB bandwidth capacity on demand, which is wow. Our room had an iPod

The Lounge @ The Montcalm Royal London House

September-October 2019 Travel Secrets 41 A suite @ The Montcalm Royal London House

A cosy in-suite corner @ The Montcalm Royal London House

Fresh and filling salad @ Burdock, Montcalm Royal London House

Lunch Burdock, Montcalm Royal London House 42@Travel Secrets September-October 2019

HOTEL REVIEW docking station, Smart 55” TVs and a complimentary handy smartphone service, with unlimited 3G internet data and free local and international calls to selected countries. The best feature of the hotel is the rooftop Aviary, a unique resto-bar with some of the most gorgeous skyline views. we enjoyed a sumptuous breakfast spread here, and it looked magazine-spread pretty, all awash in natural light. Come evening, and sitting here with a glass of wine under the twinkling lights is bound to conjure up a romantic allure. That; we’ll keep for next time…

Breakfast at the rooftop Aviary, Montcalm Royal London House

Know Before You Go: The hotel has 253 luxurious bedrooms, including 50 Deluxe Rooms, 168 Club Rooms, 27 Suites, from junior suites to family suites and quad rooms, and 8 Studio Suites with kitchenettes – ideal for longer stays. There are five Business Suites available with generous work space and a laptop on request. Two stunning Palm Suites with private balconies overlook the Shard and other iconic City landmarks. Prepare to be pampered! Your stay gets you a pre-order pillow menu, in-room Nespresso machines and an in-room aroma of choice, as well as Elemis and Hermès toiletries and private butler service on request. On the ground-floor, ‘Burdock’ features a juice bar, lounge area and restaurant. Our lunch here was light and lovely, composed of a vibrant salad and comforting soup. There’s a lovely spa for you to relax and refresh in, after a day out in the city. It’s got beautiful Versace wall tiles, a swimming pool, Jacuzzi, two treatment rooms, a sauna and steam room. The Montcalm Luxury Hotels is a collection of individual five star properties in London including M by Montcalm Shoreditch, The Montcalm London Marble Arch, The Marble Arch by Montcalm, London City Suites by Montcalm and The Montcalm at The Brewery London City. Review by: Shubhra Krishan, Editor & Publisher, Travel Secrets magazine

Toast the good times @ Burdock, Montcalm Royal London House

Delicious Secrets From Top Belgian Chocolatier

Laurent Gerbaud

hat makes Belgium the world chocolate capital? We have a very long history in processing chocolate since the beginning of the century, from small manufactures to big European players. Thanks to a very high quality industrial chocolate couverture, the general level of Belgian chocolates is higher than in other countries.

cake

What are the best street and shops in Brussels to buy Belgian chocolate? The best handmade manufactures are on Place du Sablon, the very chic square of antiquaries and chocolate shops. You will find big names in the small production like Marcolini, Wittamer, Darcis, Blondeel, the big players Neuhaus, Godiva & Leonidas and the very recent location of the French stars like Patrick Roger and Ladurée.

ExPERT SECRETS what makes handmade chocolates superior to factoryproduced varieties? The quality of the raw ingredients, the good recipes and the freshness of the production are the main keys for quality handmade chocolates. They are made all along the season in small batches, using no or very little preservative. The big players all tend to have the same price and quality of ingredients, and recipes with a very long shelf life by using lots of sugar. Their differences are more about the marketing and the packaging. How do I pick and choose the best chocolates? Try one or two pralines by the weight: this is the cheapest and fastest way to get your own idea of the market. There are five chocolates that you will always find in every shop : dark, truffle, orangette (candied orange peel), praliné (hazelnut cream) and mendiants (mini bar with a mix of nuts). Laurent Gerbaud’s Top Tips: • Small is beautiful: The new generation of chocolates are between 6 and 10 grams per piece while the old style remain around 20 – 25 grams • Enrobing versus moulding: Moulded, very shiny pralines are often a proof of industrial production while enrobed products are nearly only handmade. The normal price for high quality chocolates starts around 75 Euro per kilo in loose bags, but the high prices are not yet a proof of quality, or it would be too easy. • Always ask for a free tasting! Laurent Gerbaud Chocolatier: Rue Ravenstein 2D, 1000 Bruxelles, Belgium

Strawberry

Swiss Roll Recipe from a Scottish Farm

trawberries and vanilla cream rolled in a slab of freshly baked sponge cake, sprinkled with sugar and love. Mouth watering yet?

We stopped by at Broadslap Farm in the heart of Perthshire, Scotland. The strawberries were juicy, the countryside air was delicious. Besides a basket full of luscious fruit, we brought back this irresistible recipe: Strawberry Swiss Roll • Serves: 12 For the sponge • 4 egg yolks •cake grated zest of 1 lemon • 3/4 cup caster sugar

• 4 egg whites • 1 pinch of salt • 1 cup plain flour • 2/3 cup corn-flour • 1 teaspoon baking powder For the filling • 500-750g strawberries • lemon juice • sugar for the strawberries • 1 3/4 cups of cream • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Beat egg yolks with the lemon zest until foamy and gradually add in 2/3 of the sugar. Beat the egg whites with 4 tablespoons of cold water and salt until stiff and gradually add the rest of the sugar. Fold the egg whites into the egg yolks. Sieve the flour, corn-

TASTE NOTES flour and baking powder into a bowl and fold in the egg mixture. Preheat the oven to 160 C. Line a Swiss roll tin with baking parchment and spread the cake mixture evenly over it. Bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes (possibly reducing the temperature to 120 C after 5 minutes). Meanwhile, chop up the strawberries. Macerate them in a bowl with sugar and lemon juice. Sprinkle a tea towel with the sugar and flip the baked sponge onto it. Remove the baking parchment and roll up the sponge while still warm and allow cooling. Unroll the sponge carefully. Then apply a layer of whipped cream (beaten with vanilla) and finally spread the marinated strawberries over it. Carefully roll up the sponge again. Place the Swiss roll on a plate with the seam down. Garnish with cream and strawberry halves. Leave to set for a few hours in the fridge before serving. Baker’s tip: Before applying the layer of whipped cream and strawberries, you can add a thin layer of pineapple or maple jam/ syrup for extra taste.

Photo: Nitin Gopal Srivastava Broadslap Fruit Farm Dunning, Perthshire, PH2 0QL Fruit & Farm 01738 730242. Farm Shop & Cafe 01738 730776

TASTE NOTES

Japani Samosa at Manohar Dhaba Chandni Chowk, Delhi

ocated at a walking distance from Red Fort, very close to Moti Cinema, Manohar Dhaba is a popular stall in Old Delhi. It was established in 1924 in Lahore, but after the Partition, they moved to India and set up shop in Chandni Chowk. Though they serve regular street food like chhole bhature and paneer naan, they are famous for their unique “Japani Samosa.” Curiosity led me to the dhaba, and here’s my review of the samosa. The dhaba owners say the samosa takes five hours to make. The “Japani” thing about it is the sushi-like shape, with nearly 60 flaky layers. So actually, it is like puff pastry, with potato filling in the middle of each layer. It is fried and served with pickle and chhole. Though the combination isn’t bad, the Japani samosa doesn’t live up to its reputation. I found it too oily and wondered what’s so special about it other than the shape. But they’ve been up and running for nearly 100 years now, so obviously, shape cake matters! Review: Jatin Hisaria

Photo: Nitin Gopal Srivastava Broadslap Fruit Farm Dunning, Perthshire, PH2 0QL Fruit & Farm 01738 730242. Farm Shop & Cafe 01738 730776