[ ON THE TABLE ] by jonathan carli | photos by bill barrett
[ REMY’S KITCHEN & WINE BAR ] 222 s. bemiston ave. | 314. 726.5757
[ amuse bouche ] THE SCENE
Mediterranean Bistro
THE CHEF
Lisa Slay
THE PRICES
$4.50 to $13.50 small plates $18.50 to $24.95 large plates
THE FAVORITES
Buttonwood Farm Grilled Chicken Breast, Black Pepper & Parmesan Polenta Fries, Barramundi with Sauteed Kale and Fennel, Grilled Eggplant Napoleon, Gorgonzola Whipped Potatoes
WHEN A RESTAURANT reaches 20 years these days, there’s reason to celebrate. Cutthroat competition, paired with a volatile economy, has put these old favorites in a rarefied group. Remy’s, an original little spot in Clayton’s south-downtown area, is just about there, and it’s easy to see why. Opened in 1995 by Tim Mallett, Remy’s was unusual from the start in a city focused on Italian restaurants. Instead, it was ‘Mediterranean,’ serving an array of Middle Eastern-leaning foods, many as small plates, a concept embraced immediately by St. Louisans. And a female, Lisa Slay, headed the kitchen, also unusual at the time. Slay, part of a longtime local restaurant family, is still there, and to her credit, she churns out inventive and delicious dishes on a menu that stays current. So while stuffed grape leaves were probably on her menu 20 years ago, many other offerings reflect the culinary changes that have taken place since then. Like Black Pepper & Parmesan Polenta Fries ($5.50), which,
while true to the Mediterranean character of Remy’s, certainly weren’t on the dining scene in 1995. Those ‘fries,’ by the way, are scrumptious: The thick pieces have a crunchy cornmeal exterior and a soft inside. The dipping sauce is a tangy, red pepper harissa with just a little bite. Also stellar is the Grilled Eggplant Napoleon ($15), which we shared as a starter. A simple dish layered with eggplant, tomatoes and creamy fresh mozzarella, it demonstrates what can be done when each ingredient is of the highest quality (especially the olive oil). A special of Barramundi with Sautéed Kale and Fennel ($23) captured the charm of Lebanese flavors in its fragrant mix of wilted greens and fennel spiced with cumin. Rice prepared with chickpeas was the base on which the sweet white-fish rested, skin-side up and beautifully peppered and crisped. Its charbroiled skin imparted a pleasant smokiness to the mild fish. Another entree, Buttonwood Farm Grilled Chicken Breast, was an example of how good chicken can be. The
[ food • ŏ • lō • gy ] AIRLINE CHICKEN | Also known as the Frenched or Statlered breast (as in Hotel
Statler), this is considered an elegant way to serve chicken: boneless, skin-on and with drumette attached.
BARRAMUNDI | A sweet white fish found off the coasts of Australia, this is an excellent
eating fish.
GORGONZOLA | A distinctive blue-veined cheese from the Piedmont region of Italy
developed in 879 A.D.
[ aftertaste ]
[ chef chat ] >> lisa slay PEDIGREE
I grew up in and around my father’s restaurant, Slay’s
FAVORITE INGREDIENT
Fresh herbs
FAVORITE LOCAL RESTAURANT
At the moment, Sugarfire Smoke House
FAVORITE COOKBOOK
>> This is our go-to spot. I love it!
Any book by Joanne Weir
>> Even with all the new places in town, we like to go here. It is never disappointing, and even the
Gramercy Tavern in New York, a 14-course tasting menu
— NANCY S. OF CLAYTON
service is warm and knowledgeable. A winner all around! ‑—JASON B. OF RICHMOND HEIGHTS
UP NEXT | THE RITZ GRILL WRITE TO FOOD@TOWNANDSTYLE.COM TO SHARE YOUR OPINION.
f 11 |
airline breast had tender, flavorful meat under a butterycrisp skin. It came with a mix of roasted cauliflower, bell peppers and red potatoes and a lemony-oregano jus. A side of Gorgonzola Whipped Potatoes ($4.50) was creamy and buttery tasting from the mild blue cheese, so much more interesting than cream and butter. Certified Hereford Strip Steak ($19.50) offered a nice piece of meat with good flavor, but I found the toppings too heavy in both flavor and quantity. A little blue cheese alone might have been fine, but arugula salad with balsamic dressing was also on top of the steak, with the pungent dressing pooling on the plate. The Tuscan Seafood Stew ($22.50) was delicious. Its spicy, flavorful broth came piping hot and laden with delicacies like shrimp, calamari, mussels, salmon and firm white fish. It has quite a bite, so be forewarned, and it could use something more than the two crostini it comes with to soak up all that goodness. A dessert of Apple Bread Pudding ($6.50) was sweet and delicious, soaked in brandy hard sauce.
TOWN&style
| AUGUST 20, 2014
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