TI 18 - October 2022

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ATP PRESENTS NEW MAGAZINE ‘THE GREEN MATERIALS FROM PORTUGAL’

By: Manuel Serrão

Taking advantage of the theme 'Sus tainability meets Competitiveness' of the 10th Euratex Convention | 24th Textile Industry Forum, ATP's Sustainable Fashion From Portugal project will present its new magazine: 'The Green Materials From Portu gal', on the 13th of October. An ATP publication that aims to highlight sustainable materials and processes developed by the Portuguese textile and clothing sector as a continuation/ complement of the previous works ‘The Green Wave From Portugal’ and ‘The Green Book’.

“We have witnessed a real revolu tion in recent years in terms of mate rials, processes and technologies with a view to efficiency, reducing environ mental impact, and strengthening the circular economy”, introduces Mário Jorge Machado, President of ATP. Adds that this magazine aims to present de velopments in the sector in the field of new materials. In this diverse and complex world and industry, this will always be the tip of the iceberg. Con cludes “Much more could be said about how much was done regarding the textile and clothing sector sustainabi lity in Portugal".

This new publication presents, among other topics, different fibers, and their advantages, recycling pro cesses and natural dyeing, ecodesign, bioeconomy projects in competition, and trends for the future are discus sed. In the latter, in excerpts taken from the chapter, «In the future, gar ments will be (nigh) immortal, Ana Tavares answered the question: ‘What would you say is currently the greatest challenge for Portugal, in these areas? Where are we now and where are we headed to, immediately afterwards? The idea is that there are three distinct stages to fully achie

ving sustainability: “the first stage pertains to the grasping of concepts that is, hearing about sustainability, which is,we were in this stage for a short time. Currently, we have alrea dy surpassed it. I think we can say that we are in a second phase, in the deve lopment phase, we are doing things in companies that integrate these concepts. This phase, in my opinion, is going to be quite long, as plenty work needs to be done. And, in the future, we will reach a third phase, in which we will enter at cruising speed, and in which our problems will no longer be the same. Now, there will certainly be problems to account for, of that I have absolutely no doubt, but the comple xity of said concepts will be diluted in the knowledge we will have acquired by then, and the speed with which we will be able to overcome our challen ges will be exponentially greater.

The coordinator of the strategic Agenda for Sustainable, Bio and Cir cular Economy at Citeve, also gives an example of the Portuguese potential in this area: “We know that in Por tugal we also produce burel, a fabric that is much in demand for use in other areas, such as interior textiles, architecture and even interior design, which an enormous growth potential and environmentally speaking, it pro vides major advantages. Not only so, because burel is produced locally, we can supply markets that are very clo se to us and we don't need to rely on major, invasive chemical finishes – of the fibres and the fabrics created – be cause these much desired properties are intrinsic to the material itself. And adds: Portugal is recognised worldwi de for its ability to innovate and work on new projects in this sector. Having said that, one concludes that Portugal is, undoubtedly, very well positioned

in terms of innovation in the field of materials.

The Sustainable Fashion From Portugal project has been spreading the word about the green path of Por tuguese ITV. Firstly, the launch of the magazine 'The Green Wave' in Fe bruary. Then in July, the book 'The Green Book' and also through the Showcase Sustainable Fashion From Portugal. After several fairs traveled around the world, these three works, developed with the curatorship of Paulo Gomes, will also be at the Eura tex Convention.

“The Sustainable Fashion From Portugal exhibition highlights the multiple facets of sustainable fashion made in Portugal, combining scien tific research and the development of new materials with contemporary design and the main fashion trends”, advances ATP. Acatel, Albano Morga do, Burel Factory, Lemar, LMA, RDD, Tintex Textiles, and Troficolor are the companies represented in this show case, along with a creative Hub formed by young Portuguese designers. “On display will be fashion outfits made with exclusively Portuguese sustai nable materials obtained through various processes, including lyocell fabrics, organic and recycled cotton, recycled wool, coverings made from cork waste, fibers made from plastic taken from the ocean, and recycled”, exemplifies the association.

The paper publications 'The Green Book' and 'The Green Wave' reinforce Portugal's position as the epicenter of sustainable textile and clothing production in Europe and worldwide. They are another path to progress, bringing together con tributions from producers, creative thinkers, and other personalities who want to be part of the change.t

THE CARE OF OUR LINEN

It was hard to convince the protagonist of our cover issue to grant us the interview we had been asking for a long time. Rui Machado has a worth telling, but as we have had other industrialists and entrepreneurs that like him, don't like to be the object of the media.

It's a good thing Rui agreed to receive us there because now he's going to have more allies carry out his next mission, which is no longer by himself. In fact, with the world production of flax mainly concentrated inEurope, it is not clear why there is practically no unit in Europe to treat it. And companies like BeStitch are forced to resource in countries like China to have raw materials ready to be worked and sold.

Rui Machado wants to have a linen spinning mill in Portugal again, and we at T already promised him we will do everything to help him in this endeavor.

We highlight the statement that the Made In Portugal label has a great added value in the US market. And we are sure this reality can still improve if linen

can have their entire production chain in Portuguese territory. t

MUNICH FABRIC START BALANCE TINTEX, CENTI, AND CITEVE CREATE INNOVATIVE LEGGINGS

With a strong presence of over three dozen companies, and a From Portugal Forum, Portuguese T&C stood out at Munich Fabric Start, which happened from August 30th to September 1st. After the star t-up day’s engine warm-up, expectations remained high and were confirmed. "It went according to expectations. We received several customers, some new, especially from Holland, the Czech Republic, and Poland”, said Sofia Azevedo, export sales manager at Troficolor. t

SUSTAINABLE PROJECT USES WOOL FROM SERRA DA ESTRELA

Pillows made entirely from the Bordaleira sheep breed wool are the sustainability project business card that uses all wool of the approximately 25,000 sheep from the Serra da Estrela herds. An initiative that brought together the Department of Textile Science and Tech nology at UBI, the group “O Valor do Tempo” and local associations of shepherds and artisans. All the 2021 wool purchased for this project, after washing, spinning, and weaving in Jaqcquard gave rise to the pillows filled with pure wool. agents with whom they work in our country.

A garment commonly used in sports, the leggings of the future will incorporate advanced textile structures with intelligent systems of electrostimulation, heating, massage, and loca lized compression. CeNTI, Tintex (and its subsi diary Hata), CITEVE, and the Faculty of Sports of the University of Porto is developing leggings that will allow you to optimize and accelerate the muscle recovery process after physical exer cise. In addition to reducing recovery time, the technological solution will increase sports effi ciency and performance, states CeNTI.

“These intelligent systems act at the level of the textile structure, the combination of both being the differentiating aspect compared to other commercial solutions.

For the development of massage and com pression systems, materials with shape memory will be integrated by textile processes. For the development of electrostimulation systems, conductive wires will be incorporated by textile processes and, for the creation of heating sys

tems, heating circuits through printed electro nics will be included in the textile structure”, reveal the researchers.

Although the project (called Wear2Heal) is still under development, expectations regar ding its entry and receptivity in the market are positive. “The consortium is very interested in marketing the developed solutions”, a subject in charge of Tintex, which, in addition to the markets where it has already established itself (Portugal, Germany, Sweden, among others), intends to stimulate new markets, such as the United States and Japan.

In addition to leggings, advanced textile structures can, in the future, be applied to other garments. The Wear2Heal project, which star ted in July 2019, and ends in December this year, emerged from the survey of needs identified by the consortium, taking into account the evolu tion and trends of an increasingly competitive market and focused on more sustainable, effi cient, and innovative solutions. t

ACATEL TAKES CARE OF PEOPLE THROUGH FABRICS

Always with an eye on the fu ture and innovation, and with the motto “The textile of to morrow”, Acatel presented two novelties for its autumn-win ter 23/24 collection: Moov & Cool and moisture boost fini

shes with Q10 capsules.

The moisture boost finishes with Q10 capsules help main tain skin hydration, contribute to natural defenses, and have an anti-aging effect.

To combine style with com

fort, Acatel also launches Moov & Cool. This innovation is a biologically based cold comfort technology that allows pers piration to evaporate quickly, thus maintaining freshness throughout the day. t

FROM PORTUGAL SUM NUMEROUS CONTACTS AT FEBRATEX

‘From Portugal’ committee and CITEVE described the atmosphere at Febratex as a surprising flood. The fair happened in Blumenau (Brazil) between the 23rd and 26th of August. (after four years) “I have no memory of being at a fair with such a large flow of visitors. We have informa tion that the number of exhibitors has also grown since the last edition”, says Cristina Castro, public relations at CITEVE.

FROM PORTUGAL WITH GOOD FEEDBACK FROM MOMAD

The turnout at the Momad Madrid fair, which took place from the 16th to the 18th of September, was not the best. However, it was enough for the From Portugal delegation present at the event to make a positive assessment of the participation, which generally went very well, with the mul tiplication of contacts with Spanish customers and other geographies. Located in the sustainable area, the From Portugal sustainability exhibition went very well.

NOESE: THE NEWS IN CHILDREN’S FASHION BRAND

Noese is a new fashion brand dedi cated to children that have just appeared in Barcelos. After a pre-presentation at the Italian fair Pitti Bimbo, the official launch was on the 1st of July. The capsule collection presented at Pitti Bimbo was inspired by the movie “Charlie and the Chocolate Factory” by Tim Burton. An autumn-winter Collection consisting of 18 pieces, mainly in black white tones, and entirely made in Portu gal, more precisely at JFV Têxteis. The Collection also considers mixes cotton, velvet, and some knits.

" The national textile sector is at the top of the sustainability ranking "

BRAZ COSTA CITEVE General Director

GREEN WORLD a 210

THE GREEN BOOK, THE FUTURE -MINDED PRIMER FOR PORTUGAL'S TEXTILE AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY

A luxurious and impactful pu blication, in aesthetics and con tent, it is aimed at all players of the global textile industry, as well as the end consumer. “Our approach was to create a piece that could portray an image of timelessness, both in terms of design and in the choice of sub jects to be covered. This ventu re would ultimately intertwine Portugal’s strong tradition in textiles with the theme of sus tainability, a theme that, for the textile and clothing industry, is as pivotal nowadays as it shall be in the future. That is, from the get-go, we intended to pro duce a book that would remain relevant and current even a de cade after its original release", explains Paulo Gomes, Editor and Art Director of “The Green Book”.

This publication, carried out by the ATP–Associação Têx til e Vestuário de Portugal–is part of the project "Sustainable Fashion From Portugal: Fashion Industry's New Chic", and was designed to showcase “to the world, some of the best prac tices, initiatives and projects being undertaken within Por tugal’s textile and clothing in dustry", as is prefaced, therein, by the President of the ATP, Má rio Jorge Machado.

Sofia Botelho, Project Di rector, explains "so too, in the world of fashion and textiles, has sustainability become the great new paradigm”. Be it through the structure of its textile and clothing industry, or through its fashion system, Portugal is able to provide avan t-garde solutions to the afore mentioned paradigm. With this, “The Green Book” intends

to showcase the country's posi tioning in the world: one of deep respect towards our Earth and all beings that inhabit it. These matters are covered in depth by journalists Patrícia Brito, Patrícia Barnabé and Isabel Lindim ( *).

“Portugal is one of the prime producers of textiles and gar ments in Europe, and, essentially, a country where clients from all over the world are able to find their ideal business partners, with whom they then go on to es tablish a lasting, mutually advan tageous and added value, business relationship, where product and service complement each other to fulfil a distinctive output," adds Mário Jorge Machado.

In order to harness said added value business relationship, Pau lo Gomes tapped into the syner gy generated by two seemingly opposite concepts–tradition and innovation–, a feature that so clearly sets Portugal’s textile and clothing industry apart from its counterparts. For this purpose, he chose to highlight three pro jects that amply demonstrate the

benefits of this duality: Cork-a -Tex, the cork yarn developed by Têxteis Penedo; Tintex's “projeto Uva”, an artificial leather obtai ned from Alvarinho grape resi due; and Burel Factory's burel, which uses the wool from sheep in the Serra da Estrela mountains.

"Albeit built upon pillars of a more traditional economy, these projects have strived to fully dri ve the current paradigm of sus tainability. We wanted the book to mirror this commitment, that is, the will to marry science, tech nology and the know-how of the Portuguese textile industry in the face of concerns pertaining to the environment and our global ecosystem", summarises Paulo Gomes.

THE GREEN BOOK features Paulo Gomes as its Editor and Art Director, pictures by Inês Gonçal ves, articles by journalists Patrícia Brito, Patrícia Barnabé and Isabel Lindim, graphic design by Maria João Pereira, production by Ma nifesto Moda and Sandra Dias, and it was translated by Francisco Chagas. t

QUOTATIONS

WHY DO WE NEED TO CHANGE?

Patrícia Brito

«Every day revolutionary innovations in the field of sustainability are announced as a result of collaboration between science, tech nology and industries. From fibres produced from hemp to edible insects. On the other side, consumers are increasingly attentive and demanding, but they still have an emotional relationship with fashion that leads them to consumption. Gradually, brands have been introducing more sustainable models in their collections for which customers do not mind paying more. The revolution is already underway and the fashion industry, traditionally founded on new expressions, bold and original ideas and radical thinking, has shown itself to be up to its responsibilities, finding itself on the frontline of this crusade for the survival of the planet and humanity. Ever wary and pioneering, the Portuguese textile industry reinven ted itself and invested heavily in the opportunities of the sustaina bility market — where it does not have to compete on price, but on quality — establishing itself, today, as a centre for innovation and assuming a leading role in this much desired revolution»

HOW ARE WE CHANGING?

Patrícia Brito

«Leader in innovation and sustainability. This is the new interna tional calling card of the Portuguese Textile and Clothing Industry which, in recent years, has known how to reinvent itself, taking on the role of world leader in the transition to a more planet-friendly sector and adding “green” value to its innovative products.

Biodegradable fibres, dyeing with bacteria and natural pigments, intelligent finishes and fabrics, reuse of waste, more efficient processes and machinery, products designed to last and to be recycled, a new investment philosophy that rhymes with research and innovation. The new brand image of Portuguese textiles is being sewn along these lines, world leaders in innovation and an example to follow in terms of sustainability and circular economy of the fashion industry’s.»

THE FUTURE IS NOW

Isabel Lindim

«The rules change when the world experiences, at a global scale, the consequences of climate change and pollution. When matters get as pressing as these, everything and everyone is forced to change. And it’s precisely through this new and shared consciousness that society can hope to work towards a healthier Earth. If the consumer grows to become both more demanding and better informed, so will production chains, throughout the world, shape themselves in ac cordance with a new, more mindful and more sustainable path that prioritises the use of greener materials and processes. There is clear evidence that sustainability is, indeed, the future. This very same future is looking us right in the eye, anxiously awaiting the moment in which the knowledge we are building and the technologies we are developing revert and reduce our environmental impact. And everything is connected: humankind, what we wear and how we use the resources that are made available to us. To protect nature, we must first locate ourselves within it and, of course, cherish it. Upon doing so, it will just be a matter of making the right choices»

number of pages of The Green Book, launched by ATP's Sustainable Fashion From Portugal project

"We have a responsible industry, committed to reducing its impact and environmental footprint"

MÁRIO JORGE MACHADO ATP's President

IMPETUS PRESENTS ITS NEW ACTIVE LINE

Adding to the recent lines “In/Out” and “Soft Pre mium”, Impetus has just presented its collection “Active”. The new offer from athleisure is made up of tops, leggings, t-shirts and sleeveless t-shirts with seamless technology, which totally adapt to body movement. “Impetus Active is a collection thought to every wo men’s day-to-day. To run, to go shopping, to walk, to work or simply to stay at home. To Pilates, Yoga, HIIT or simply meditate”, pre sents the Portuguese brand in its online shop.

ACTIVE LINE IS THE NEW ASSET OF JOSÉ PINTO CARDOSO

Manufacturer of Pierlorenzo and Facho suits, José Pinto Cardoso is preparing to launch the innovative Active line, which promises to shake up the market. A new concept that combines formal style with sporty comfort and functionality, thanks to innovative, customizable and recyclable fabrics. To prove it, Carlos Costa only needs a few seconds. He takes off his coat, rolls and crumples it, and then puts it back on, stylishly, with no glimmer of a wrinkle or shape deviation. “It can even be washed by hand, hung up to dry, and in the morning it looks like new”, he emphasizes. Already tested, the Active line will appear in capsule collections, the first in the summer 23.

AMERICA SURRENDERED TO THE PORTUGUESE DELEGATION

CASA DA MALHA JOINS SMARTEX AND ELIMINATES WASTE

In five months, the Smartex system al lowed Casa da Malha to make relevant savings on manufacturing and environ mental costs and waste. After a pilot project, the knitwear manufacturer from Perelhal announced a definitive partnership with the technology focu sed on efficiency in textile manufactu ring.

Between April 1st and September 1st, Casa da Malha saved 1,858 kg of raw material, 208,170 liters of water, 16,728 kWh of electricity, and 4,165 kg of Co2. The accounting presented in the statement where the two compa nies announce “a new partnership that exemplifies how Casa da Malha invests in cutting-edge technology, in the so phistication of processes and always improving the quality of production”.

The presence of a strong delegation From Portugal at the Sourcing at Magic, Magic Las Vegas, and Project, which ended on August 10th reinfor ced the recognition of Portugal as a partner that meets all the textile sus tainability criteria – which is essen tial for penetration in the American market.

In a first analysis of the results of the trip that took them across the Atlantic, the companies present highlighted the auspicious business environment and the agendas full of new contacts.

The Marita Moreno brand showed its sustainable vein through cork sandals, apple skin trainers, and its best-selling ‘Shell bag’. In addition to the stand, a selection of seven products was on display at Ad Infini tum, a space created by the fair’s or ganization dedicated to celebrating

sustainability.

The newcomer Fepratex also won the visitor’s attention with its bet on circular knits and sustainability: “We brought organic knits, new dyeing techniques such as water marble and hiahiq. Our finishes and the touch of the pieces also impressed custo mers”, says Davy Fernandes, account manager at Fepratex.

“In terms of results, the fair was great, we continued to receive our regular customers, we had customers who came to refer friends. It’s always good when we have customers who bring competitors to open an account with us, in addition to placing their or ders right away here at the fair”, says Luís Machado, responsible for the commercial area at Aspeto Homme.

With a regular and well-establi shed presence in the American mar ket, Aspeto Homme brought to the

next season a wide range of products for immediate delivery. A sustaina ble drop inspired by well-being and dynamism through collaboration with an American influencer: “We took advantage of the fair to close a deal with a US influencer who has 3.6 million followers. He was at the event with a video team, shared it on social media, and created a diffe rent moment at the fair”, says Luís Machado. Despite the layout of the fair, organized by sectors of activity (from clothing to footwear), coope ration was present. “There was a re levant Portuguese representation at the fair, which is great. We felt very close to the other Portuguese compa nies, there was conviviality and com panionship, and I felt that we are all working towards the same thing: to make ‘Made in Portugal’ stronger”, points out Luís Machado. t

According to the manager of the Bar celos factory, Carlos Dias, the system “avoided major losses in our production chain, so obviously we intend to conti nue this promising partnership and co ver our entire production system”. On the Smartex side, CEO Gilberto Lourei ro expresses his satisfaction “for having concluded a successful pilot, and now we are working alongside Casa da Ma lha, setting a precedent here in Portu gal and Europe for a super modern and efficient factory”.t

"Portugal already has the image of a country that produces in a sustainable way"

MÁRIO JORGE MACHADO ATP President

INTERVIEW n

Rui Machado

At school he wanted to run away from textiles but it was inevitable. Textiles were already at home, they had always been in the family and there was no escape from it. He knows the textile industry from top to toe. He started working in the factory floor on his first job but he rapidly ended up as chief financial officer. The opportunity fostered his entrepreneurial vein and so BeStitch was born, a home-textiles company which hasn’t stopped growing, which exports 100% and makes linen its identity.

BESTITCH'S GOAL IS ALSO TO CONTROL THE WIRING

till a teenager – it will be twenty next year – BeStitch is reaching the goal of a vertical production structure, having linen as its fibre of election. The greatest leap was given with the entrance in the United States market, which already represents half of the sales and enabled doubling its income over the past five years.

Where does BeStitch come from and how did the company start?

BeStitch emerged in a very simple way, as a small tailor-made clothing manufac ture working for other companies. We took advantage of the opportunities that emerged, which enabled us to grow.

Did this tailor-made manufacture already exist?

Yes. It was a small unit that my father was considering closing and as I was working in a company that subcontracted a lot I decided to move forward. Beware that we are talking about the manufacture of home-textiles. We also started looking for foreign clients. I had worked with agents which bought fabrics from Scandinavia and so started considering whether it would be more profitable for us to manu facture. This was how we started to grow.

What exactly does BeStitch do nowadays?

It produces a wide range of home textiles, from table wear to bedlinen. We produce everything related to home textiles and we also have some fleece, even though they are not produced internally. At the moment and in the chain of value the only thing we don’t have is spinning. We have weaving, cutting and tailoring, trimming and we export directly.

To which markets?

Essentially Europe and North America, mainly the United States, which even though being a recent adventure already represents half of our turnover. Tradi tionally, for historic reasons, we started with the French market – still today it represents 30% – and then moved further north to England, Netherlands and Nordic countries before jumping to the USA. At the moment we are present from Canada to New Zealand.

What is the proportion between exports and the internal market?

We are working 100% exclusively to ex ports. We don’t work with an own brand, everything is our clients’ private label, otherwise we would be competing with them. If we end up doing it in the future it will be with an entity independent from our company.

How is the structure of the company?

SWe have weaving, located in Gondar, with 32 looms. It increased considerably over the last years and works exclusively with flax and hemp. We don’t work with cotton in weaving as it isn’t profitable. Here in Lordelo (where the interview is being held), we have the trimming plant, meaning, where the fabrics coming from the loom are finished… dying, enriching. After that it goes to Pevidém for storage and cutting of all the parts to be forwar ded to manufacturing. We also have our own manufacturing in Gondar, where the expedition departs from. We have in ternal ability, in all these areas, but most of the labour is subcontracted, exception made to the trimming factory, where we use one third of the production ability and the rest is service supply to other companies.

What areas and number of workers are we talking about?

On the whole we must have around 22 to 23 square meters. There are around 250 workers but the trend is to reduce it, not only due to labour force issues but also due to the challenge of production automation mechanisms, still expensive and limited in their functions, but which will be inevitable. I would say we have a decade to adapt and we will only have three chances: either we go for automa tion, labour force import or production displacement.

And in which perspective do you work?

We are currently still working in a tradi tional system but we are heading towards automation, an investment which shall amount to three or four million euros.

You said that in a matter of few years the USA already represent half of the turnover. How did you reach this point?

By hiring human resources used to this type of market. We did a market study, we talked to people and analysed who could help us. We were doing this evalua tion for a year and after that we succee ded quickly. The major American clients have people here who assess, the biggest contracts are even made in Portugal and are then complemented with visits to some trade fairs and by contacting the client.

Apparently it went out just fine It has undoubtedly been a very inte resting adventure. If it were not for the current circumstances the commercial part would be the least of our worries. Our demand has always been much bigger than our offer ability. We notice some downsizing as usually, by this time, we would have working prospects until February or March next year and this process is somewhat delayed.

And what does it have to do with?

Mainly with the inflation. It is a real problem in all economies and all latitudes and it will bring changes, mainly in a product which is not an essential good as home-textiles is.

If USA represent half, what is BeStitch’s turnover?

We are talking about around 32, 33 million euros. We were constantly growing, even during Covid, at the beginning of which we were producing masks for one or two months.

There is great importance in the op tion for linen in this evolution, right? Linen is a natural fiber associated to sustainability, it is not a fad. Before cotton, linen was already being produced, which placed us in a differentiated medium-high market. Linen is sold in great centres with purchasing power.

How did you go for this bet?

It was around 2008 and it started as an ex periment. I remember that we assembled the first linen fabric and two months after that all I wanted was to tear everything apart as the loom didn’t make progress. It is an extremely difficult fibre to work with. Then, with some skill we managed to make industrial manufacturing adequa te to market prices, we proposed it to some clients who appreciated the idea and it just flowed. We didn’t copy anyone, it wasn’t a thought strategy, it was just an experi ment that went well.

And how do you deal with competi tors, namely producers from China and India?

First and foremost there is great difference in terms of quality. In the American mar ket, for example, a made in Portugal label is worth more than an eastern product. Then we have this fantastic singularity of having more than 80% of the world’s pro duction of linen made in Europe, mainly in France, Belgium and the Netherlands. However, then there is China that has 80% of spinning, meaning that the fibre travels from Europe to China and from China to Europe. This means that the la bour cost is reduced to us when compared to the shipping costs faced by the Chinese, enabling us to have more competitive prices. We already export to Xangai, which is extraordinary. If someone in 2005 had told me I would export to Xangai I would say it was science fiction.

Why isn’t there a bigger bet in the spinning of linen in Europe?

A spinning plant opened in France and this is a trend that will eventually reach BeStitch. Controlling spinning is also a target of ours.

the questions of

Elda Lisboa upplier

What is BeStitch’s strategy regar ding the prediction of a worldwide increase in consumption?

Our strategy passes through all the chain of value. The next step would be spinning but doing a linen spinning just to BeStitch would be reducing for the project itself. We are negotiating a solution that will largely overcome BeStitch’s needs.

Being it a sustainable fibre and being 80% of linen plantation loca ted in Portugal is that a competiti ve advantage?

It is strategic at an industrial level that Europe has spinning ability but we must also bear in mind that linen represents only 0,4% of world fibres. It is a needle in a haystack.

Nuno Lima Staff member

Are there conditions to bet in the development of an European natural fibre such as linen?

Yes, considering that more than 80% of linen is produced in Europe but also bearing in mind that 85% of this production is located in France and that in this moment we don’t have any spinning in Europe.

Is the goal to have a 100% European product produced in Portugal?

With

product coming from France? Yes, because the Portuguese linen share – and this comes from PAC times – is ridi culous. I would like more linen to be pro duced in Portugal as it is an easy crop and we had a great tradition in growing it. In 1949 it was our biggest export and here, in the Guimarães area, it was a strong culture. The linen party is still held in S. Torcato. I don’t know the numbers from memory but I believe that nowadays the share for the production of linen in Portugal is 450 tons, which is ridiculous as BeStitch alone spends 1500 tons a year.t

That would be great. I’m a convin ced Europeanist but if it is 100% made in Portugal it is even better. We have been studying the setting up of spinning equipment for three years. After that the only missing part would be the growing of the fibre, which would be a longer pro cess as linen requires great storing capacity.

CITEVE, ERT, CENTI AND CTIC WON INNOVATION AWARD

FROM PORTUGAL WITH POSITIVE BALANCE AT INTERGIFT

Intergift ended on September 18th, and in a very positive way for national colors. Four From Portugal companies –Dilina Têxteis, Irina & Sousa, Rio Sul, and Têxteis Evaristo Sampaio – joined by the sustainable forum iTechStyle Green Circle. The start had a positive note on the part of the com panies:“this year’s edition was very similar to last year’s edi tion and the editions of previous years”, said Filipa Sampaio, commercial supervisor of Evaristo Sampaio -“we established many contacts that we will, now, work on and that I expect it pays off”.

The process of using waste from the tanning industry to produce textile coatings for the automotive industry gave to a 100% Portu guese consortium, made up of CITEVE, ERT, CeNTI, and CTIC, an innovation award from Techtextil, which took place from the 21st to the 24th of June in Frankfurt, Germany.

The award, in the category “New Approa ches on Sustainability and Circular Economy”, distinguished the process which delivers a new generation of textile coatings and a new life to natural leather wasted from the tan ning industry. In the photo, Michael Janecke (Messe Frankfurt), David Macario (ERT), Au gusta Silva (CITEVE), and Heike Illing-Gubn ther (jury), at the award ceremony.

“CITEVE researchers and its partners from ERT, CeNTI, and CTIC were able to gather an innovative solution to an enormous quantity of waste from industrial leather cutting ope

rations. An international jury of specialists recognized this scientific development as a happy and innovative symbiosis in the sustai nable and circular economy areas”, declared the Techtextil organization.

Developed in the scoop of Texboost, a tex tile initiative that mobilizes the portuguese textile and clothing, the awarded process has ERT Têxtil Portugal as a partner, who launched the brand – Phoenix – to commercially explo re the new product that results from this te chnological innovation. “By opening the way for the by-products of an industrial sector to be used as raw material in another sector, the work of the researchers of the consortium led by CITEVE is part of the trend towards an en vironmentally friendly, sustainable textile industry endowed with greater efficiency. ”, explains the jury of the Techtextil awards. t

FROM PORTUGAL REINFORCED SUSTAINABILITY AT PV

With less turnout than in Fe bruary but with customers more focused on business, Première Vision closed its doors at 7 July. “Overall, the re were fewer people. But the scheduled meetings took pla ce, we received visits from re gular customers had also some new customers”, sums up Hélder Rosendo, the Business Manager of TMG. The portu guese textile giant linked to MGL has an integrated offer for some exclusive clients of outwear clothing with ready

-made pieces.

Although there were not as many as in February, “the visi tors are very professional, and arrived with concrete plans and willing to close deals”, said Miguel Máximo, from TMR Clothing. Miguel Má ximo also noted that “of the first four contacts we had, two came from the USA and were willing to fulfill orders”.

From this edition of PV, Fi tecom mainly strengthens its ties with its customers: “we receive our regular customers

from Spain, England, Fran ce, and Netherlands. I can say that it was 90% of what it was in the pre-pandemic period. After the start of the fair, we always had movement”, says CEO João Carvalho.

The manager of Penteado ra also expressed an identical opinion. “The fair went well, we are returning to normality, we received mostly European customers, but also some from outside Europe, which is al ways good”, summarizes José António Teixeira. t

RIOPELE LAUNCHES METAVERSE COLLECTION

Riopele bets in digital transition and presented on June 29th at QSP Summit, the first collection in the metaverse. The textile giant renews the ambition to be a leading company on an European scale with technological solutions that allow “suppliers and customers to experience fabrics in the digital world”. Rui Oliveira, director of information systems at Riopele, notes that “this project fits sample digitalization pro jects and virtual product prototyping, which makes available the company tools. By so, the customers can analyze collec tions, verify functionalities and the visual effect of fabrics in digital pieces with high realism”.

is the weight of the fashion trade in El Corte Inglés stores

LION OF PORCHES’ BOLDEST COLLECTION

For men and women, with a very modern and urban vibe, this is the Black Edition, the latest collection from Lion of Porches. The Black Edition targeted a younger audience. A contrasting line with boldness and rejuvenation is shown in a “perfect mix between sportswear and more classic and sophisticated looks, allowing you to play with extremes”, as the brand explains in a statement. They are irreverent propo sals, ideas for those who like to dare and express their true essence through fashion, with unique details, comfortable fabrics, and refreshing patterns.

"

Sustainability is at the heart of the Portuguese companies' business models "

TOBIAS GRÖBER Executive Director of ISPO

PHOTOSYNTHESIS

by: Ana Rodrigues & Bebiana Rocha

SUCCESS BEYOND THE BEST EXPECTATIONS

It is the splendid bi-annual mee ting of the large textile family. This time, with a festive atmos phere due to the celebration of MODTISSIMO 60th edition, the 30th anniversary of Associação Selectiva Moda, and 75 editions of T Jornal. A two-day party in the large pavilion 6 to Exponor, always in great rotation, with emphasis on the large influx of foreign buyers from the most varied geographies. In the end, as in good stories, everyone was happy. Success beyond the best expectations for exhibitors, visi tors, buyers, and the organiza tion. There is more in February!

5. FOR THE FIRST TIME AT THE PORTUGUESE TRADESHOW, THE WOOLMARK COMPANY PRESENTED THE NEW EDITION OF THE WOOL LAB, A GUIDE TO THE BEST FABRICS AND YARNS WITH MERINO WOOL

6. THROUGH ITS DIRECTOR, ANA PINTO MACHA DO, AICEP ALSO WANTED TO BE PRESENT, SU PPORTING COMPANIES AND THE ORGANIZATION

11. AT HELIOTEXTIL, VISITORS FOCUSED ON THE SMART LABELING SOLUTIONS PRESENTED TO THEM

10. MARGRIET LEEMHUIS AND ISABEL FURTADO, NETHERLAND'S AMBASSADOR AND HONORARY CONSUL (RESPECTIVELY), AT THE OPENING OF THE COCKTAIL THEY OFFERED

1. IN THE ENTRANCE HALL, THE DIMENSION AND IMPACT OF THE ITECHSTYLE GREEN CIRCLE SHOWCASE (THE BIGGEST EVER) IMMEDIATELY SHOWED THE DYNAMICS THAT ANIMATE THE PORTUGUESE TEXTILE/FASHION SYSTEM

VERY BUSY, THE MOVEMENT AT THE SOMELOS STAND CONFIRMED THE RETURN - AFTER THE RESTRICTIONS OF THE PANDEMIC - OF ASIAN BUYERS

SPACE,

FABRICS ATTRACTED

ATTENTION OF

A LONGTIME PARTNER OF MODTISSIMO, ANTARTE HAS SET UP A LUXURIOUS LOUNGE FOR MOMENTS OF REST

GREAT TURNOUT WAS ALSO AT ADAL BERTO, WHICH MADE AND PRESENTED AN INNOVATIVE COLLECTION USING ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE

THE CONVERSATIONS IN CORRIDORS AND LIVELY MEETINGS ARE ALREADY A LONG TRADITION OF MODTISSIMO

8. SAMUEL COSTA, CEO OF SONIX, HIGHLIGHTED DURING THE ITECHSTYLE TALKS IN THE SESSION IN WHICH HE PARTICIPATED WITH ALBERTA MA RIMBA (SOMELOS), MIGUEL DOMINGUEZ (ATB), AND BRAZ COSTA (CITEVE)

DESIGNED AND MANUFACTURED BY MARJOMOTEX, EVEN THE WELCOMING TEAM UNIFORMS HAD WELCOME MESSAGES IN SEVERAL LANGUAGES

13. THE AICEP COMMERCIAL DEPARTMENT, LED BY DIRECTOR MA RIA MANUEL BRANCO (IN THE CENTER), WAS PRESENT IN FORCE, PHOTOGRAPHED WITH ATP PRESIDENT MÁRIO JORGE MACHADO AND SELECTIVA MODA CEO MANUEL SERRÃO

12. THE GREAT HUSTLE AND BUSTLE WERE EVIDENT IN THE CORRIDORS, WHICH MADE MANY WAIT IN SMALL LINES NEXT TO THE STANDS

PAULA BORGES INVESTS HALF A MILLION IN A NEW SEGMENT

Paula Borges has just made a new investment of half a million euros in machinery, software and hardware aiming to keep up with the most recent innovations in luxury clo thing manufacture. Internationally renowned by the detail in which it works the fabrics, the company is now able to manufacture sophisticated knitwear, which opens the doors to a new offer. Thanks to this new investment the company expects a substantial growth in income.

42million

were the Impetus group sales in 2021

CONCRETO X GONÇALO PEIXOTO COLLECTION FOURSOURCE CREATES “PAVILHÃO DE PORTUGAL”

Concreto teamed up with Porto designer Gonçalo Peixoto to laun ch a colorful summer knitwear collection. ‘Capri Collection’ has five limited pieces: hoodie, top of the shoulder, midi skirt with side opening, and bikini high waist, inspired by the Italian island of the same name. “Concreto teamed up with Gonçalo Peixoto to create a collection that unites the essence of Concreto knitting, with sensual and sophisticated shapes” that reflect the young designer’s essence announces, the Portuguese brand of Valérius. t

FROM PORTUGAL RETURNS WITH GOOD BUSINESS FROM PITTI BIMBO

The usual frenzy of international fairs is slowly returning with good results, and the feeling of mission accompli shed from the From Portugal committee at Pitti Bimbo. Moreover, it’s important to note that, in addition to the presence of many Italian clients, buyers from Saudi Arabia, the United States, and Turkey also made their presence at this fair. “Compared with the January edition, it was very positive. A surprising number of customers came to us from Saudi Arabia, Lebanon, the United Arab Emirates, and Qatar”, summarizes Rodney Duarte, export sales manager at FS Baby.

The Foursource Marketplace, which runs 365 days per year, is the biggest B2B network in the ITV digital world and will have a new area exclusively dedicated to Portuguese exhibi tors. The “Pavilhão de Portugal” will facilitate access to international buyers to Portuguese services, which is an enhancing tool for new businesses.

Thanks to the partnership between Asso ciação Selectiva Moda and Foursource, with over 50,000 companies in this platform, the digital fair will dedicate a new area to Portu gal. A novelty will include all the Portuguese companies registered in the platform: Barce lbordados, Tricothius, Fashion Team, Marke

texteis, Teamstyles, Rosa Maria Coelho, Ale xandre Machado, Penedo, Riscas Sucessivas, Top Trends, Rcv, Givec, Latino Confecções, Confeções Bugalhos, Pedrosa e Rodrigues, Olímpio Miranda, Maxigrau, White Label, and Castro & Silva – which assume as an opportu nity to more and better affairs.

The organization affirms that “they follow a global approach with subsidiaries and part ner offices, in an increasing number of coun tries. Foursource is in Berlin (Germany), and the technological and development center is in Porto. Currently, we operate in Izmir (Tür kiye), Shanghai (China), Mumbai (India), and Karachi (Pakistan).” t

SASIA DEBUTS NEW GENERATION OF TEXTILE RECYCLING MACHINES

As a part of the EcoBioInks 4SmartTextiles, CeNTI and CEB, developed bio-sustai nable inks that promise to revolutionize the textile manufacturing with smart proprieties, in clothing and decor. These inks came out through the purification of biomolecules. And, accor ding to the light, they chan

ge colors.

“This discovery will take advantage of the optical properties of reversibly switchable fluorescent tu bes (RSFPs), which allow endowing textiles with photo-controllable fluores cent properties”, explains CeNTI on the presentation project page. To obtain this

solution, it appealed to bio and nanotechnology.

The innovation has its re lation since these inks are composed of natural mate rials, “namely biomolecules produced in microorganis ms, contrasting with tradi tional materials of synthe tic basis with petroleum derivated.” t

It is a worldwide novelty operating since February at Sasia. A machine that cuts, shreds, standardizes fibers and, finally, packages, transforming textile waste into a new generation of recycled fibers for the production of yarns with a quality level never reached before. Developed in collaboration with Sasia by the Austrian manufacturer An dritz Laroche, it occupies an entire hall, and recycles over 1 thousand kilos per hour, with zero water consumption or chemicals. Miguel Silva, CEO of Sasia (photo) highlights above all “the ability to produce a differentiated article, premium material for niche market segments that we want to reach: finer and superior quality yarns”. At the same time, it also obtains environmental gains.

" The pandemic is a joke compared to the problems we are experiencing"

PAULO MELO Somelos President

OPINION

THE DIFFICULTY OF ENERGY COSTS

About a year ago, it was difficult to identify the rea sons for the abrupt increases in the price of natural gas (NG) - around 300% - and the increase the price of electricity in the same magnitude. Currently, the invasion of Ukraine by Russia in February 2022 has highlighted the reasons for the violent rise in NG, coal, and oil prices on the international market.

There are still those who think that the war, star ted on February 24 2022, was not the main and deter mining cause of the rise in energy prices from April 2021, as they consider that there was no knowledge of such intention by Russia, absolutely unjustified and improbable in current times.

However, Russia, which, in the long term, plan ned and decided to invade the neighbor country, as it had done in 2014, albeit on a smaller scale, and had fostered Europes dependence on its energy supply very difficult to replace, in the short run, especially NG. With the necessary advance, it also started to intervene indirectly in the future markets, buying contracts in sufficient quantity to raise prices and boost purchases of security making speculative mo vements until reaching the maximum price level.

At later times (at the beginning of the invasion), it sold these same contracts at much higher prices, ob taining remarkable gains and keeping higher prices regarding the risk of reduced supplies.

Russia is the second largest producer of NG, with around 700,000 million m3 in 2021. It's just after the USA (800,000 million m3) and has more than tripled the third producer, Iran (220,000 million m3). Moreover, Europe is dependent on its gas pipeline su pplies (of which Germany, already 60% dependent, was preparing to inaugurate a second gas pipeline

across the Baltic Sea – Nord Stream 2). In short, Rus sia had all the conditions to intervene heavily in the gas market futures and drive prices up. That is what happened.

Now, NG prices are six times the 2020/early 2021 prices, less to Europe (27% reduction in the 1st quar ter of 2022, compared to the same in 2021). As it's happening and increasing (however, sales to China increased by 60%, on a relatively low basis), contrary to what would be a penalty, Russia still obtains from this price, a higher income than in the period before the rises. For the same reasons, the price of coal has quintupled, and the price of oil has doubled since Q1 2021.

This is an increase in costs that is very difficult to integrate into the price of products and, conse quently, requires support mechanisms for compa nies.

By DL 30-B/2022 of 4/18, a support system is esta blished to mitigate the evolution impacts of the NG price, which can reach a maximum of € 400,000, per company, from February 2022 to December 2022.

DL 33/2022 of 5/14 is a mechanism to support the electricity production with NG. It applies to cogene rations, in which, for each MWh of electricity produ ced, it is supported by 1.82 MWh of NG consumed in its production, which is multiplied by the difference between the average market price and an initial refe rence value of €40 per MWh.

ERSE reported a reduction in the tariffs for access to Networks (-6.2% in Medium Pressure; -48.6% in High Pressure) for the gas year 2022/2023 (10/1/2022 to 09/30/2023). It doesn't solve everything, but it alleviates the difficulties.t

THE EU SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES STRATEGY

Ana Dinis ATP Executive Director

At the end of March, the EU Strategy for the Sustainability and Circularity of Texti les was published. It is a goal for 2030 that textile products placed on the EU market are durable, recyclable, and mainly made from recycled fibers, free of hazardous subs tances, and produced with respect for social and environmental rights. All this is to curb and reverse Fast Fashion and replace the linear economy model with a circular eco nomy model.

Among other measures, the European Commission (EC) proposes to define bin ding ecodesign requirements for specific products. The goal is to increase the perfor mance of textiles in terms of: durability, reusability, reparability, fiber recyclability, and mandatory recycled fiber content.

Under the new Ecological Design of Sus tainable Products Regulation, the EC plans to introduce a digital passport for textile products based on mandatory information requirements on circularity and other en vironmental aspects. The Textile Labeling Regulation will be revised to include man datory sustainability and circularity para meters and, eventually, the made-in.

Another important measure will be regulation to eliminate greenwashing. Eco-claims must only be considered on sus tainable textiles, an objective that can be achieved by revising the EU eco-label tex tiles criteria and other initiatives.

This Strategy also defines objectives and identifies a set of measures and initiatives to promote the necessary skills within the

scope of this ecological (and also digital) transition. There is an emphasis on the Pact for Skills and the enhancement of vocatio nal education and training.

To successfully achieve the Strategy purposes it will also be essential to support research, innovation, and investments in these areas.

To conclude, an essential issue often de manded by the Portuguese and European textile and clothing industry is market sur veillance, considering that most products on sale in the EU are imported from third countries. The EU recognizes that greater coordination and cooperation between national law enforcement authorities and more effective market surveillance metho dologies are critical. t

João Costa

President of ASM and member of ATP Board, member of the National Strategic Energy Council (CIP), and of ERSE Advisory Board