footloose Surreal Surprise
A visit to a Kayan village on the Thai-Burma border to meet the fabled long-neck women is an out-of-the-world experience. By Murli Menon
18 | BTW | 22 January 2007
There is no electricity in this village populated by the Kayan tribe who have lived in these forests for centuries.The most unique aspect about the tribe living in this village are the elongated necks of the females.After a girl child is born,she is made to wear a brass neck-ring.Every year two more rings are added to her neck till she is five.As she grows into an adult her neck gets naturally elongated as the rings are never removed.
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The Kayan tribe call themselves ‘Ka Kaung’,which loosely translates to “people who live on top ofthe hill”. They are sometimes called longneck Karens or giraffe women because ofthe custom ofencasing their neck in brass coils.When a girl is aged between five and nine,her neck is rubbed with traditional herbs dipped in coconut milk and the first brass ring is fitted.After two years,the next set ofrings is added and every year thereafter she gains a new set till she is married. Below the chin,the women wear a square cotton pad decorated with beads. These brass rings are said to be centuries old and handed down over generations, passing from mother to daughter to grand-daughters.Kayan women also have two set ofleg rings,one above the knee and one below,but this does not seem to hamper their daily work in any way.A complete set ofneck coils worn by a grown-up woman - including the neck,knees and ankles - weighs about 10 Kayankilos! women are said to have descended from the Goddess Mother Dragon (‘Ka Kwe Bu Pe’) and women wear these rings to give respect and tribute to the deity and to resemble a real dragon.As Kayan myth goes,when the granddaughters Mu Don and Mu Dan visited Ka Kwe Bu Pe,they were presented with winding gold coils which they wrapped around their hands,legs andKayanneck.
The long neck decorated with golden coloured brass rings make the Kayan women look incredibly attractive and they strut about like graceful peacocks. They also wear their hair in a topknot with a pointed silver pin in it and a necklace ofa chain ofsilver coins.
The decision whether to wear the rings or not is left entirely to the girl after she attains maturity.However,this tradition has survived in this era of globalisation only due to the fact that Kayan women have the greatest reverence for their mother goddess.The Kayan women do not travel outside their villages and have spent their entire life in their small communities.
IN THE ABSENCE OF ELECTRICITY, the villagers gather under a tree at dusk for an evening of SINGING AND DANCING
I am writing this from a thatched roof-hut on stilts inside Huai Suea Thao village on the outskirts ofMae Hong Song district on the Thailand-Burma border.This village is nestled on the edge ofa steep cliffoverlooking several mountain streams that rush down to meet the Pai river flowing through Mae HongTheSon.village is surrounded on all sides by mist-covered evergreen coniferous pine forests at an altitude of5000 feet above sea level.The natural beauty of the surroundings is breathtaking.Every bit ofthe landscape is covered with teaks,pines,conifers,oaks and birches stretching their arms as far as the eye canThesee.buzzing sound ofthe flowing mountain streams and waterfalls are soft music to the ears throughout the night.
22 January 2007| BTW | 19
The mystery oftravelling to an unknown destination is like learning a new language.You read numerous dictionaries, books and even ‘Learning Languages for Dummies’.After mastering a few short sentences,you locate a native speaker to practice speaking and start parroting your rehearsed lines. As your sparring partner stares blankly at your monologue,you do not know how your accents have turned out to be and ifwhat you said was what was understood or whether you made a complete fool ofyourselfby mispronouncing niceties as insults.
You wake up at dawn,awakened by the natural alarm calls ofwild roosters living on the edge ofthe jungle.Even in the twilight hours in early November,you can see the mist hanging heavily on the mountain tops.You also come across a few scattered clouds that have descended on your hut made entirely ofpalm leaves,coir and bamboo.
people celebrate the ‘Kan Khwan’ceremony when all Kayans gather in celebration with lots offolk dances and traditional music and singing. These community gatherings often get Kayans from all far-flung villages to come together in a mood offestivity andThehappiness.othervillages on the ThaiBurmese border where one can find long-necked Kayans,include Hwa Phu Keng,Kayan Tha Yar aHsu Htaut and Noi Soi.All these villages are located inside thick coniferous forests and are accessible either by boat or after trekking on foot for long hours.
20 | BTW | 22 January 2007 Fact Files Getting
The longneck Kayan village ofHuai Suea Thao is nestled in the middle ofa hill overlooking a multitude ofuninhabited hills.Several small mountain streams crisscross through these hills,providing a constant water supply for their needs. The Kayan shun contact with the outside world and are happy in their isolated existence. Language is a barrier as their native dialect is different from Thai or evenTheBurmese.Kayan hand cultivate rice in their tiny fields.Vegetables like carrots, cabbage and cauliflowers are also grown.One ofthe unique aspects of Kayan culture is their food habit.Due to their elongated and delicate necks,they have to be very particular about what they eat.Lots ofwild tea is drunk,without sugar or milk,to keep the effects of the cold away.Crushed ginger is added to the Thetea.Kayans are extremely hard working and do not rear cows or bullocks. Ploughing the rice-fields is done by digging with hand.The mountainous terrain,the fast flowing mountain streams earth were linked by a spider’s web. Thus the earth is braced to the sun, moon and stars by an invisible spider’s web.At creation the earth lacked density and the land and the water were fluid,so God Phu Kabukathin planted a small post in the ground.As the post grew,the earth also grew into seven inner and outer layers and it became firm.The post was named ‘Kan Htein Bo’in Kayan which translates to ‘The Means ofFormation ofEarth’. btw There
The nearest international airport to reach Chiang Mai is the Suvarnabhoomi International Airport at Bangkok. Several airlines operate direct flights from Bangkok to Chiang Mai. But the cheapest option for budget conscious Indian tourists is to take the 12:50 p.m. Air Asia flight. The flight duration is approximately 60 Theminuteseasiest and most popular way to get to Chiang Mai from Bangkok is by bus. This 600 km trip takes 12 hours. The bus fare for ordinary buses is 350 Baht and 550 Baht (one baht = Rs. 1.20) for super-deluxe buses Hotels
Anantara Golden Triangle Resort at Golden Triangle junction of Thailand, Burma and Laos is a favourite of all visitors to long-neck tribe villages around Thai-Burmese border. During the low season (July to October) a standard double room costs approximately 3500 Baht River View Lodge at Mae Hong Son is a family run guest house. It offers clean rooms with small bathrooms and cold showers for 150 baht is located on the banks of the Mae Hong Son river At Huai Suea Thao, a few local villagers offer home-stays with basic accommodation and food at 100 Baht per day. One gets to experience their hospitality and local cuisine
MENONMURLI
water is one’s music for meditation. The value of patience becomes apparent as the hostess moves almost in slow motion, to dip the bamboo container into the kettle and pour small helpings of green tea into one’s cup. One seeks forgiveness from one’s neighbour before proceeding to sip the tea in three sips. One wipes the cup after sipping and graciously thanks one’s host before departing. How to get there?
Colmar Tropicale Resort at Bukit Tinggi Highlands
One is writing this from the cool confines of one’s cosy abode, overlooking the Bukit Tinggi Highlands on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur, surrounded by 16000 acres of greenery. The view from one’s perch is picturesque. Clouds kissing treetops from one end of the horizon to another, thick tropical rainforest trees line the hills in various shades of green. Colmar Tropicale, one’s tree-house, stands at 2600 feet above sea level, inside 80 acres of tropical rainforests, in the state of Pahang in peninsular Malaysia. Pahang is an ideal place to experience the bounties of nature. The tropical rainforest teeming with a wealth of flora andThefauna.walk through the forest is nothing short of enchanting. The fresh, pine scented breeze, the towering trees, the perennial mountain streams and the ancient rock formations coupled with the chirping birds, the whispering willows and the squeaks, squeals and barks of the macaques, make every step of this nature walk an exciting adventure. One gets to enjoy the sounds and sights of nature, as one ventures deeper into the forest. As one inches uphill, one gets to view impressive panoramic views of lush green hills and misty mountain peaks. Trekking through the forests that surround Colmar tropical is like exploring nature’s own botanical garden. There is a small open air wildlife reserve inside the forest, where one can observe deer and rabbits at close quarters in a near natural ambience. Over 200 rabbits of 4 different species and several white spotted deer and Timorese deer can be seen lazily grazing under the shade of the giant trees. The rabbits feed on bamboo leaves while the deer prefer grass and graze away lazily, unmindful of human presence. The pleasures of walking barefooted through the forest floor at noon, while it drizzles, is an unmatched experience. One can feel the primordial elements, fire the dame time. One takes rest in some secluded caves near a quiet cove, quenching one’s thirst at the rapid. Its darkness at noon here as a thick canopy of tress, filter the sunlight from creeping into the forest. This secret place is one’s island of peace to communicate in solitude with nature. Meditating at this hidden cove is a calm, serene, quiet and tranquil experience. The trek back is equally eventful. One stops briefly at the Japanese Tea House inside the rainforest for a refreshing cup of Japanese green tea, before returning to the comfort of your hotel room. The traditional Japanese Zen tea ceremony which one attends at the tea house is an extremely spiritual experience. One sits on the floor on the tatami mat in the simple tea house, which transports one to Kyoto. One patiently watches ones hostess prepare a cup of tea. The silence pervading the ceremony is all encompassing. The sound of the kettle pervades the room. The gurgling, boiling
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A colourful Japanese tea-pot at the Japanese tea garden at the resort
Bukit Tinggi – quaint castle in the hills
Colmar Tropicale is a two hour drive from Kuala Lumpur International Airport depending on the traffic. The other option is to take the Putra LRT from KL Central to Putra Station and drive down from Putra Station which takes all of 45 minutes. Kuala Lumpur International Airport is connected by air to most international airports. It takes 28 minutes to get to Kuala Lumpur Central Station from Kuala Lumpur International Airport by KLIA Express. This journey costs 35 RM. (One RM is equivalent to Rs.12/- at current exchange rates) Where to stay? Colmar Tropicale at Bukit Tinggi Resort offers comfortable rooms at affordable tariffs by Indian standards. Where to eat? Lots of small restaurants serving Indian and Chinese cuisine dot Kuala Lumpur. You get good vegetarian South Indian food at Brickfields near Kuala Lumpur Central Station. A few Chinese vegetarian stalls at Petaling street serve delicious and nutritious vegetarian dishes. The food at the high profile hotels is only for the gastronomically adventurous who like greasy food. Fresh fruits including watermelons, papayas, tender coconuts, durians, mangosteens and pineapples are available at the local market. Colmar Tropicale serves a selection of fresh tropical fruits, freshly squeezed fruit juices, Vegans who don’t consume dairy, bakery and who avoid all products of animal origin and who don’t consume proceesed foods or alcohol can go for green tea, Chinese tea, rice porridge, mashed potatoes and leafy lettuce salad at the buffet breakfast served at Colemar Tropicale. Strict vegans should also keep away from toxic additives like monosodium glutamate present in generous amounts in soya sauce, chilly sauce tomato sauce. Refrain from consuming these poisons at all costs by sticking to fresh fruits raw vegetables throughout the day. Avoid solids after sunset and drink several cups of lukewarm ginger water before retiring to bed.Colemar Tropicale Resort in Bukit Tinggi Highlands in Malaysia Murli Menon is the author of “ZeNLP-the power to succeed” and “ZeNLP-the power to relax” and conducts two-day stress management canProgrammingbasedworkshopsonZeNLP(Neurolinguisticwithatouchofzenmeditation).HeisbasedatAhmedabadandbecontactedbyemailatceo@tips4ceos.com Pine trees as seen from one’s hotel room
Murli Menon gives a first-hand experience of how it feels to go deep sea diving in Koh Noi at Phuket
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The boat ride from Phuket to Koh Noi Island for diving is dramatic. Several small uninhabited islands emerge out of the blue waters as we pick up speed. The green cover and limestone caves impart a wild beauty to all these islands. The waters become clearer as we near Koh Noi. The ocean resembles a blue looking-glass as I don the diving mask, flippers and jump into the middle of the ocean a hundred metres from this enchanting isle. I see yellow coloured fishes swimming beneath the surface without having to dip underwater. As I get adjusted to the vacuum around my nose and face and get used to breathing through the mouth, I start to enjoy the beauty of the ocean floor through my magnifying goggles. It is like watching a three-dimensional film on a giant screen. Rainbow coloured coral and undersea gardens appear as the water becomes more transparent!
THE DIVER’S DESTINATIONDREAM At Koh Noi the varieties of corals and the rich biodiversity of marine life coupled with clear warm waters and powdery white sandy beaches make it an irresistible magnet that draws amateur snorkelers, divers learning the ropes as well as dive instructors and professional divers. The aquatic world at the bottom of the ocean is not only incredibly beautiful, but observing the various genera of coral and hundreds of varieties of fishes swimming alongside, is in itself a treat to one’s eyes. In this area is a gentle slope with hard coral gardens, sandy bottom and unbroken coral blocks that stretch for several hundred feet. Colourful varieties of cloudfish and parrotfish .can be seen swimming in circles through the innumerable crevices within the coral gardens. As one swims towards the white sandy beach, one omemurliic:PNN
DeCeMBer 2010 I 135 e are in Koh Noi or Coral Island in isLearningofdestinationThePhuket.dreameverydiver.todiveliketravellingto an unknown destination. You watch hundreds of swimmers effortlessly diving into the pool with the smallest of splashes. You work up the courage to climb up the steps and as you are perched on your toes at the outer edge of the diving platform, you do not know how the dive will turn out to be. A perfect Greg Louganis type of dive, an awkward tumble into the water, or will you land upside down or fall like a lifeless stone into the water, your mind numb and body paralysed with fear!
The nearest international airport to reach Koh Noi is the Suvarnabhoomi International Airport at Bangkok. There are several options for Indian tourists to get to Koh Noi from Bangkok. From Bangkok, one must fly to Phuket. From Phuket airport, one has to transfer to Phuket bus station.
wHERE TO STAy? Mangosteen Resort and Spa at Phuket is a value for money proposition which offers five star comforts at three star rates during the low season (July to October). A standard double room costs approximately .3000/- inclusive of American breakfast. Budget conscious, middle-class Europeans frequent this eco-friendly property at this time of the year. wHERE TO EAT? Many small restaurants serving Thai cuisine dot Koh Noi. Freshly steamed banana in palm jaggery sweetened coconut milk is a nutritious meal in itself, which vegans will relish. The food at the high profile hotels is for the gastronomically adventurous who like greasy food. Fresh tropical fruits including durians, mangosteens, pineapples, tender coconuts and jack-fruits are available at the l ocal market.
136 I DeCeMBer 2010 encounters partially submerged corals too! A fish that leaves an impact on you is the Panda clownfish, which is as unusual as its name. The larger holes among the corals are home to moray eels surrounded by green fishes which resemble symmetrically arranged green corals. However, as I dive to observe them closely, these green eels disperse in the fraction of a second. I have just experienced the magic of camouflage used by green eels to avoid predators!
FlOORED Diving in the afternoon helps one to explore the underwater coral gardens. One can observe the colonies of corals and the marine life which shelter under these corals. At times one sees lots of colourful fishes swimming in synchronicity across the transparent deep blue waters. The symmetry, harmony and telepathic communication between these tiny fishes, which move as one seamless whole has to be seen to be believed. As I dive deeper and start examining the ocean floor, I am amazed at the variety of the coral genera. Giant corals resembling dining tables lie undisturbed on the ocean beds. Aptly named table corals, they stretch for kilometres around this island and one can spend a day getting lost in this endless colony of corals. As I float yet deeper into the sea, the colours and shapes of the corals change at a rapid pace. I sight corals with tiny spine like projections lying on the bed of the ocean like fallen jackfruits. There are also the green coloured traditional corals. A majority of the coral gardens are either deep brown or rust in colour, but at times one can see splashes of green, orange or red and these contrasting colours illuminated by the molten gold of the reflected sunlight and the clear blue waters project a picture of unparalleled natural beauty painted by nature’s delicate paintbrush, dipped in the colours of the rainbow.
It is a pleasure to watch schools of tiny fishes finding their way through the corals like shooting stars. One explores the hidden treasures of nature, tucked away under calm seas, in the folds of limestone formations, millions of years old. Some of the fishes one encounters while diving include flying fish and silverfish. Yellow coloured heart shaped fishes painted with black stripes are everywhere.
HOw TO gET THERE?
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cOlOuRFul VOyAgE
The soft corals are full of life as they increase their length twice as much under the influence of strong currents. It’s like watching an ant under a magnifying lens! Christmas tree worms carpet the surface of banana leaves shaped corals. Starfishes and sea clams rest on rocks and enjoy the faint traces of sunlight that illuminate their undersea homes. A few sea turtles move at snail’s pace, almost swimming in slow motion. The most amazing thing about diving is the ability to be able to observe the almost humanlike emotions that play across the faces of these undersea miracles of nature. One can almost see the smug look on the face of the rainbow coloured parrotfish. Or the elegant poise of the light purple coloured and delicate cloudfish. One can never forget the sinister look in the eyes of the scorpionfish as it awaits its next victim. The bubbly laughter on the faces of the clown fish is apparent for all to see!
lIgHT AND lIFE
Observing the underwater flora and fauna at Koi Noi, is a voyage in discovery. New colours, shapes and forms spring out of the water at every moment. Innumerable microscopic fishes emerge out of the coral belts swimming in synchronicity. Sea anemones sway gently in the waves. Starfishes are scattered in disarray all over. Sea urchins rest peacefully on the corals. Once in a while one sights a giant sea-turtle or several starfishes. Some of the transparent fishes sparkle like twinkling stars in the shimmering afternoon sunlight and appear to vanish for a few seconds before being visible again. This is indeed an incredible miracle of nature. Fishes
DeCeMBer 2010 I 137 sparkling like stars under the sea! As one explores the reefs further one realises that the diversity of the corals are no less than that of the hundreds of species of colourful fishes that swim through them. The corals that can be seen adorning the ocean floor include giant barrel sponges sandwiched between colonies of mushroom corals.
The other attraction at Koh Kret is the Wat Poramaiyikawat temple, constructed in Mon style and which was built about 200 years ago. In 1873, King Rama V visited the temple and ordered the renovation and later on reconstruction of the main temple. One starts one’s boat cruise at 16
Just and hour and half boat ride from the bustling city of Bangkok, Koh Kret charms you, thanks to its idyll
potter island
In the year 1722, when a canal was constructed as a shortcut to bypass a bend in the Om Kret branch of the Chao Phraya River a section was cut off eventually becoming a separate island. And Koh Kret was born. Known for its beautiful clay pottery and considered one of Bangkok’s hidden treasures it can be reached from Sathorn pier in approximately 90 minutes by a long-tailed boat. Here, lives a community of craftsmen famous for their distinctive style of pottery which dates back to several centuries! Descendants of the Mon people of Koh Kret have managed to retain the skills of their forefathers. The island, a centre for “kwan arman” style of Mon pottery is fundamentally just baked unglazed red clay carved with intricate patterns. Prices for the simplest and smallest pots start from as low as 5 baht a piece, but can go up to hundreds or even thousands of baht for large ornate pieces. Particularly popular among visitors are candle and incense holders with ornate patterns of holes to let the smoke or light out, averaging around 200 baht. There are some 20 pottery workshops on the island and one can see many kilns as one walk’s around. Mon potters also make pottery which can be used in daily life, like soup bowls, night lamps and aromatherapy lamps.
2014MARCH FOOTLOOSE murli menon
How to get there? Bangkok is connected by direct flights from New Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Chennai and Bengaluru. The easiest way to reach Koh Kret is to take the once-weekly Chao Phraya Express Koh Kret tour, which leaves the Central Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin) every Sunday at 09am and visits a number of attractions before returning at 3:30pm. The cost of the cruise and guided tour is 300 baht (no lunch).
Where to stay? Siam City Hotel, located adjacent to the Phaya Thai BTS sky-train station, is a convenient location to stay, as almost all tourist attractions including Grand Palace, Wat Arun and Sathorn pier are easy to reach.
Sathorn pier which is adjacent to Saphan Takshin BTS Station and makes one’s way to Nonthaburi pier, an hour-long ride on the fast flowing waters of the Chao Praya river taking you through the rural outskirts of Bangkok. Alight at Nonthaburi pier to hire a long tailed boat which will take you to Koh Kret and return after an hour’s halt. Here both sides of the streets are filled with shops selling pottery of various kinds. Aroma therapy candle holders, night lamps and large pots in a distinctive style are arranged one on top of the other in endless rows. Street vendors selling everything from fried potatoes to papaya salads are found along the way. As you walk about 2km you come across several Buddhist temples whose spires can be seen from a distance. The entrance to the temple is small but one can sight a golden coloured statue of Quan Yin from the opening. Behind the temple is a pottery museum, which details the history of Koh Kret village and the Mon tribesmen who came settled here and continue to make pots like their forefathers. Several attractive pots and vases from this village are displayed and look gorgeous with dim lighting illuminating the exhibits in the museum. Fresh tropical fruits including durians, mangosteens, pineapples, tender coconuts and jack-fruits are available plenty at the local market here. Do savour the island specialty rice preparation, called “Khao Cher” which is similar to Orissa’s “pakhalo” in Kerala’s “kanji”. A Mon specialty and favourite during the summer months, this rice dish is served with chilled fragrant water and needs to be is eaten with green papaya salad and roastedBeforepeanuts.youhead back to your boat do check out the souvenirs at roadside stalls like Thai herbal compress bags for steam massage, Thai herbs and of course, pieces of pottery which can endure the journey back home lasting the airport conveyor belts and luggage handlers.
Also the hotel is itself located opposite Suan Pakkad Palace, which is a tourist attraction in itself owing to the treasures of art housed in this palace. There are no hotels or guesthouses on Koh Kret. Most visitors visit Koh Kret as a day trip from Bangkok.
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