Sunday Times Extra Time 2706 by Vlad Nedelcu

Not sure what to do? Be entertained by Gauteng’s attractions

Option1 – Apartheid Museum and Gold Reef City

Option 4 – Vaal Meander

09h30: Tour of Gold Reef City – a theme park that relates Johannesburg’s gold mining history and provides family fun for a morning. 13h00: Lunch at one of the many restaurants located inside the Gold Reef City Casino. 14h00: Visit the Apartheid Museum and either wander through the halls or take a guided tour. 17h00: Have dinner in one of the top restaurants at Gold Reef City.

09h45: Visit the Sharpeville Memorial that commemorates those who died during the liberation struggle in 1960. 11h00: Take a ride on donkey carriage through the township and visit locals in their original 1960s homes. 13h00: Lunch at the Riviera on Vaal Hotel. 14h30: Depart on a river cruise down the Vaal River and enjoy a spa treatment at the Zorgvliet Spa based at the hotel. 17h00: Dinner from an array of restaurants at Emerald Casino.

Option 2 – Soweto Tour

Option 5 – Jo’burg inner city

09h30: Tour through the streets of Soweto ending up on Vilakazi Street. This township is the former home of South Africa’s Nobel Prize winners, Chief Albert Luthuli, later Archbishop Desmond Tutu and SA’s former president, Nelson Mandela. 12h30: Lunch at one of the many township restaurants to mingle with locals and find out more about local culture. 14h00: Go for some retail therapy at the African Craft Market in Rosebank, adjacent to the Rosebank Mall.

09h00: Explore the city’s famous heritage sites such as Constitution Hill. 13h00: Enjoy an alfresco lunch in one of Johannesburg’s trendy suburbs such as Greenside or Parkhurst. 14h30: Spend the afternoon at the Origins Centre at the University of the Witwatersrand. 18h00: Enjoy dinner in Newtown, the city’s cultural district, famous for its live music and theatre performances.

Option 3 – The Cradle of Humankind

09h45: Arrive at the Sterkfontein Caves for a guided tour and wander around the visitors centre. 13h00: Lunch at the Maropeng Visitors Centre 14h00: Tour the Maropeng complex and take a ride on the underground boat through geographical time. 17h00: Enjoy your dinner from a variety of top restaurants in Monte Casino and watch a play afterwards.

1 Central Place Cnr Jeppe & Henry Nxumalo Streets Newtown Johannesburg Tel: 011 639 1600 Fax: 011 639 1700 E-mail: info@gauteng.net Web: www.visitgauteng.net

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Gauteng is more than a rainbow-coloured melting pot of cultural diversity. Its leisure culture varies from the rhythm of township shebeens to kwaito in the streets and in taxis. Then there’s the province’s famed game viewing, cliffs for mountaineers and birdwatching for twitchers. In our theatres you can watch opera, ballet, pantomimes and plays. We have the Joburg Theatre Complex and the Montecasino Theatre, celebrated for its dramatic,

CONTENTS

start here

a bit about Gauteng, how to use this guide

arts & culture theatre, art, dance, comedy, film, books

enjoy gold reef city

see the voortrekker monument

NICE TO KNOW

visit the cradle of humankind

spot lions

7 days in Soweto

this way out magaliesberg

“The Magaliesberg mountain range is a microcosm of the magnificence of nature and the turbulent history of South Africa.” — Vincent Carruthers

shop arts and crafts, magaliesberg

map Finding your bearings Editor: Damon Boyd, Art director: Keith Tamkei, Subeditor: Tiara Walters Contributors: Diane Coetzer, Nikki Temkin, Leslie Kasumba, Craig Jacobs

comedic and musical-theatre performances. Poetry-reading sessions are popular throughout urban areas and jazz is a favourite in the townships. Over the years, Gauteng jazz has diversified into three distinctive genres — township jazz, black jazz and marabi. The opportunity to experience township life is available through township tours in Joburg, Ekurhuleni and the West Rand. Gauteng evokes centuries of oral traditions, of worlds past and present. It is in this spirit of artistic endeavour that we invite you into our world. The creative spark provided by our diverse communities has produced some remarkable men and women, not only in Gauteng, but in South Africa as a whole. The Metsweding region is of particular significance to the Tswana, Pedi, Afrikaans,

Ndebele and Tsongaspeaking people, many of whom can trace their roots back to the area’s rolling grasslands. The West Rand also offers some of the best arts and crafts routes in South Africa, and Joburg and Pretoria have many art galleries that feature contemporary South African as well as visiting international artists. The Gauteng arts and culture landscape blossoms with innovation and diversity. The unquestionable love and mystique that our people bestow on the land is evident in every traditional rite, in our musical notes, in our festivities, in everything we do. Enjoy your stay! Sport, arts, culture and recreation MEC, Nelisiwe Moerane

USING THIS GUIDE Gauteng is a city that can overwhelm the unsuspecting traveller. Relax. This guide is here to help make the most of the short time you’ll be spending in our cool province. It’s organised into two main segments: seeing and doing. We’ve colour-coded everything to make it easier for you to get to where you need to be. We’ve got restaurants, bars, clubs, shops, cultural hotspots and places to venture to while you twiddle your thumbs between the big games. We hope you enjoy your stay. Kinda. RED: For those in the mood to drink like a champion and party YELLOW: For the gastronomes who like fine dining, theatre and other performances BLUE: For those who want to take in Gauteng’s heritage and history, along with some heavy-duty shopping and recreation GREEN: For the people who like getting away from the action and spending some time exploring the reaches of a province ORANGE: Stadiums and their surrounds This is the fourth edition of six guides to the province of Gauteng. Gauteng isn’t just Joburg. It’s also home to Pretoria and other strange surrounds, like Midrand. You can get your guide in the weekend editions of the Sunday Times, Sunday World and on week days in the Sowetan. Check the back of each guide for contact details and stockists. Visit http://www.timesurl.at/629629 to see our previous edition. Cheers — Damon, Ed

DO art&culture * Our life in art

Gauteng is like the popular guy at school, the one everyone wants to be friends with, the guy whom girls want to pick and paw at. Gauteng is popular because it caters to everyone’s tastes. It has heritage sites, international fashion shows, winning theatre productions. It’s the meeting place of many worlds, and to think that just over a decade ago somewhere like Soweto wasn’t exactly the melting pot of music and the dramatic arts. There was drama, alright, but not the kind that got applause. Yet, here we sit, in a multicultural hub, with its sky rises, lion parks and deep understanding of how to play chess with the West and still stay true to our African traditions.

Our way of life is evident in our culture and the arts. There’s plenty to do here, so we’ve picked 20 of the best things to get to before you go.

1 SHAKA ZULU, THE MUSICAL

Where: State Theatre, 320 Pretorius Street, Pretoria Contacts: Computicket on 083 915 8000; or Di Sparks on 011 648 7385 Let’s kickstart with Shaka Zulu, The Musical. If you were born yesterday, you’d be forgiven for not knowing that King Shaka Zulu was one of the most feared and respected African warriors (ask the Brits). This two-hour musical celebrates his life — not just his exploits on the battlefield, but his relationships with family members. Written and delivered in English, the creators have also been careful to write it in a style that takes on the musicality of royal Zulu. Not to be missed, unless you’d like an assegai in the eye. Until July 18.

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5 KIPPIES JAZZ CLUB

2 THE BLUES ROOM Where: Shop L8, Village Walk Shopping Centre, cnr Rivonia and Maude streets, Joburg Contacts: 011 784 5527 When The Blues Room first opened its doors, it promised to be the place where you’d get your blues and jazz fix. Since it’s let in different genres — but without compromise to the quality of performances. Intimate but not twee. Good food and good booze at the bar should set you up for the likes of neo-funk bands like Kwani Experience, or even a top comedian (we have those). This is one venue that won’t disappoint during the World Cup.

Where: 121 Bree Street, Newtown, Joburg Contacts: 011 836 1805 Named after the justly famous Kippie “Morolong” Moeketsi — the South African saxophonist — Kippies is the spot to enjoy jazz with the locals. If you have a case of the blues, be sure to get to the popular Monday night blues sessions.

6 AFRICA FASHION WEEK Where: Sandton Convention Centre, Maude Street, Sandown, Joburg Contacts: 011 269 6960 A major platform for local designers to tell the authentic story of African fashion, fabric and fluffy fun. This feast of couture is a great showcase for the whimsies of David Tlale, luxuries of Christie Brown and downright chic of Uganda’s Gloria Wavamunno. Trot over to Sandton Convention Centre between June 30 and July 3 to catch the spectacle.

3 THE HECTOR PIETERSON MEMORIAL Where: 8288 Maseko Street, Orlando West, Soweto Contacts: 011 536 0611 In June 1976 students took to the streets of Soweto to protest against being taught in Afrikaans. On that day many youth lost their lives and the most wellknown was Hector Pieterson. The image of his lifeless body being carried by a fellow student was soon seen by all the world and is today regarded as the iconic image of life during apartheid. Located in Orlando West, this memorial to the young and the brave makes for an essential tourist visit.

7 SPAZA ART GALLERY Where: 19 Wilhelmina Street, Troyeville, Joburg Contacts: 011 614 9354 Joburg’s open secret. Spaza Art Gallery is also known as the cultural office for Troyeville and takes visitors on tours of Mahatma Gandhi’s home. This is the residency of art students all around town who collectively put together exhibitions. It has sculptures in the garden and paintings in the house. Sundays the gallery comes alive with launches of new exhibitions and a cook out by Sanza.

8 UMOJA Where: Victory Theatre, Houghton Estate, cnr Louis Botha Ave and Osborne Street, Houghton Estate, Joburg Contacts: 011 728 9603; or Computicket at 011 340 8000 Umoja is South Africa’s best-loved musical. It’s toured the globe; its dancing, drumming and singing bringing together audiences from all walks of life. Not bad for two women who started the dream during their break on tour with Ipi Tombi in America.

4 I SHOULD’VE DONE THESE JOKES FIRST Where: The Fringe at the Joburg Theatre, Loveday Street, Braamfontein, Joburg Contacts: 011 482 3550 You’ve got to catch David Kau in his dimpled prime. Credited as one of the comedians who helped create the laugh market in South Africa, Kau’s jokes are universal (not mannered substitutes for humour). So, if you’re a little depressed because your team never made it to the semis (and let’s not get into that), be sure to catch him on the edge at The Fringe. Continued on next page

DO art&culture* 12 TSHWANE COMEDY FESTIVAL

Venue: The State Theatre, 320 Pretorius Street, Pretoria Contacts: 012 392 4258/9 The Jacaranda City (as it’s known by those purpleloving locals) is the host of the fourth annual Tshwane Comedy Festival. This year, in honour of all the guests visiting Gauteng during the World Cup, comedians from all over the world have been included on the bill. Be sure to catch David Kibuuka from Uganda, the “Magic Man” from Canada, Britain’s Martin Davis, the Super Basket Mouth of Nigeria (don’t ask) and Chris Davis from the US. They share the stage with Pretoria favourite Eugene Khoza and other SA greats like Joey Rasdien and Chris Mapane.

13 RENDEZVOUS AT THE STATE

9 BRA HUGH MASEKELA AT TEATRO MONTECASINO Where: Montecasino Boulevard, cnr William Nicol and Witkoppen drives, Fourways, Joburg Contacts: Debbi de Souza on 082 822 9478 Africa has always spoken in song and Bra Hugh has been at the frontline of this movement. His melodramatic and somewhat poetic trumpet performances are world renowned. Extend your stay and see him here on July 8 and July 9. 10 MZANSI SINGS A TRIBUTE TO O R TAMBO Where: State Theatre, 320 Pretorius Street, Pretoria Contacts: Tembi Mahambehlala on 011 483 1642 or 076 855 2835 Oliver Reginald Tambo played a vital role in the emancipation of his people. His story will be narrated by poet and singer Jessica Mbangeni and an ensemble of voices, instruments and dancers.

THEATRE Where: 320 Pretorius Street, Pretoria Contacts: 012 392 4258/9 During June and July, Pretoria will come alive with music from jazz and African musicians. This is a city that has always been celebrated for its unique style of jazz, hailing from areas such as Mamelodi township. Acts to look out for include new afro-soul artist Ternielle Nelson, the Ambassadors of Jazz and pianist Norman Chauke, whose beautiful music is just what’s needed to warm the heart on a cold winter’s night on the Highveld.

11 BEAUTIFUL CREATURES COME TO LIFE Where: Teatro Montecasino, Montecasino Boulevard, cnr William Nicol and Witkoppen drives, Fourways, Joburg Contacts: 082 822 9478 Calling all parents. Directed by London-based Paul Warwick Griffin (famous for his work on Jesus Christ Superstar and High School Musical SA), you can be certain that for one hour your children will be totally captivated as they sing along to songs of the Beautiful Creatures. Hey, and don’t feel bad if you forget the tykes here. There’s a lost and found bin — we’ll throw them in there. Continued on next page

DO art&culture 14 MANDELA HOUSE

Where: Cnr Vilakazi and Ngakane streets, Orlando West, Soweto Contacts: 011 936 7754 or e-mail info@mandelahouse.org A must-see for visitors: it’s the only street in the world with homes in which two Nobel Peace Prize winners — former President Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu — once lived. No 8115 was Mandela’s home and has now been transformed into a heritage site that gives visitors a first-hand look at the humble beginnings of the world’s number-one citizen. Although Tutu’s home is not open to the public, it draws many pilgrims from across the world. This was also where photographer Sam Nzima took the iconic image of Hector Pieterson when he was shot on June 16 1976. After your journey through Vilakazi Street, kick back at world-famous Nambitha restaurant, in the same road. 60 GREAT SOUTH AFRICAN READS ... IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER 1. Long Walk to Freedom — Nelson Mandela 2. The Life and Times of Michael K — JM Coetzee 3. Jock of the Bushveld — Percy Fitzpatrick 4. Native Life in South Africa — Sol Plaatje 5. My Traitor’s Heart — Rian Malan 6. 117 Days — Ruth First 7. A Dry White Season — André P Brink 8. Mafeking Road — Herman Charles Bosman 9. A Question of Power — Bessie Head 10. Ingqumbo Yeminyanya (The Wrath of the Ancestors) — AC Jordan 11. Die Swerfjare van Poppie Nongena (Poppie Nongena: One Woman’s Struggle against Apartheid) — Elsa Joubert 12. Indaba, My Children — Credo Mutwa 13. Country of My Skull — Antjie Krog 14. Die Siel van die Mier (The Soul of the White Ant) — Eugene Marais 15. Triomf — Marlene van Niekerk 16. New Babylon, New Nineveh — Charles van Onselen 17. Burgher’s Daughter — Nadine Gordimer 18. To Every Birth its Blood — Mongane Serote 19. Down Second Avenue — Ezekiel Mphahlele 20. Shirley, Goodness and Mercy: A Childhood Memoir — Chris van Wyk 21. Cry, the Beloved Country — Alan Paton 22. Walter and Albertina Sisulu: In Our Lifetime — Elinor Sisulu 23. Blame Me on History — William ‘Bloke’ Modisane 24. The Marabi Dance — Modikwe Dikobe 25. Sounds of a Cowhide Drum — Oswald Mtshali 26. The Celibacy of Felix Greenspan: A Novel in 18 Stories — Lionel Abrahams 27. Die Ysterkoei Moet Sweet (The Iron Cow Must Sweat) — Breyten Breytenbach 28. The Cry of Winnie Mandela — Njabulo Ndebele 29. Welcome to Our Hillbrow — Phaswane Mpe 30. I Write What I Like — Steve Biko 31. Collected Works — Ingrid Jonker 32. The Story of an African Farm — Olive Schreiner

16 THE SAB WORLD OF BEER

15 THE SA MUSIC FESTIVAL Where: Market Theatre, 56 Margaret Mcingana Street, Newtown, Joburg Contacts: Sibusiso Shangasi on 011 832 1641 or www.markettheatre.co.za Too often apartheid is seen as the preserve of those who took to the streets. But art, too, was an important part of the struggle for liberation. During apartheid’s heady days, the Market was also known as the Theatre of the Struggle because its founders weren’t afraid to put up material that challenged the apartheid regime. Fastforward to 2010 and now the theatre has been put through the paces of a grand upgrade to keep its title as the holy grail of Joburg’s music, dance and theatre scene. So, check out the SA Music Festival here, set to headline diverse local acts like Thandiswa Mazwai, Jozi, RJ Benjamin, the Parlotones and Afrikaans rocker Steve Hofmeyr, ensuring visitors hear all music genres South Africa has to offer.

33. South African Eden — James StevensonHamilton 34. Portrait with Keys — Ivan Vladislavic 35. The Will to Die — Can Themba 36. Karoo Morning — Guy Butler 37. The Good Doctor — Damon Galgut 38. Mittee — Daphne Rooke 39. Bitter Eden — Tatamkhulu Afrika 40. Mandela’s Ego — Lewis Nkosi 41. Claim to the Country: The Archive of Wilhelm Bleek and Lucy Lloyd — Pippa Skotnes 42. The Cape Journals of Lady Anne Barnard — Lady Anne Barnard 43. Magersfontein, O Magersfontein! — Etienne Le Roux 44. ’n Ander Land (Another Country) — Karel Schoeman 45. Ways of Dying — Zakes Mda 46. Letters From Robben Island: A Selection of Ahmed Kathrada's Prison Correspondence — Ahmed Kathrada with Tim Couzens 47. A Place Called Vatmaar — AHM Scholtz 48. Three-Letter Plague — Jonny Steinberg 49. The Native Commissioner — Shaun Johnson 50. Thirteen Cents — K Sello Duiker 51. David’s Story — Zoë Wicomb

Where: Cnr President and Miriam Makeba roads, Newtown, Joburg Contacts: 011 836 4900 Beer and football were made for each other. Why not ditch the brown water they keep forcing down your throat at the matches and have a draught of our finest local beverage? Here, at the SAB World of Beer, the brewing of beer is demystified with tours that are engaging and entertaining. There is even an opportunity to make beer with your mates. From June 7 to July 17, they will be open seven days a week from 10am to 8pm (right on the stroke of happy hour). All in all a visit well worth it.

17 VOORTREKKER MONUMENT Where: Voortrekker Monument Heritage Site, Eeufees Road, Groenkloof, Pretoria Contacts: 012 326 6770/325 7885/355 0477 This square slab of Afrikaans pride is a very important part of the South African story — that of the pioneers. With numerous tourist attractions that document this narrative, such as the 1938 Rock Pile, the Story of Blood River Afrikaans Library, and its setting in a nature reserve, the monument is a must-see for visitors interested in the complete story of SA’s history. See pages 12 and 13 for more.

18 A VIEW FROM THE SOUTH 2010 Venue: Everard Read, 6 Jellicoe Avenue, Joburg Contacts: 011 788 4805; www.everardread.co.za The Everard Read gallery is showcasing art from a host of South African artists who have given their unique interpretations of the 2010 Fifa World Cup. Expect to see sculpture, paintings and various artistic methods from the perspective of the people of the south. At the Everard Read until June 30.

52. The War for South Africa — The Anglo-Boer War: 1899-1902 — Bill Nasson 53. High Low In-between — Imraan Coovadia 54. The Little Karoo — Pauline Smith 55. ‘Buckingham Palace’, District Six — Richard Rive 56. Eilande (Islands) — Dan Sleigh

57. Classrooms in the Shade — Shanthee Manjoo 58. The Diary of Henry Francis Fynn — Henry Francis Fynn (edited by James Stewart and D Malcolm) 59. We Spend Our Years As a Tale That Is Told: Oral Historical Narrative in a South Chiefdom — Isabel Hofmeyr 60. Witness to Aids — Edwin Cameron

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20 DRUMSTRUCK Where: Old Mutual Theatre on the Square, cnr Rivonia and West roads Contacts: 011 883 8606 The name says it all. The Drum Café (011 834 4464) is where Joburgers go to learn the art of drumming in a circle — sans the tears and group hugs. Drumstruck is produced by the people who own Drum Café. There is no instrument more haunting or powerful and that has been there from the beginning quite like the African drum. Complete your experience in Gauteng and perhaps pick up a new hobby.

19 WALTER SISULU SQUARE Where: Cnr Valley and Union roads, Kliptown, Soweto Contacts: 011 945 2200 This was where the monumental Freedom Charter was signed. Its history and architectural features alone have made it popular with tourists from all around the world. A quick rundown: Walter Sisulu was a major figure in the anti-apartheid struggle — he was deputy-president of the ANC and also one of the men who stood shoulder to shoulder with Nelson Mandela during the treason trials.

WHERE IS WHAT

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11 9 20

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10 GREAT FILMS ABOUT STRUGGLE AND LIBERATION

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8 5 15 16 14 3 19

1. Cry, the Beloved Country (1995), Dir. Darrell Roodt 2. A Dry White Season (1989), Dir. Euzhan Palcy 3. Country of My Skull (2004), Dir. John Boorman 4. Come Back Africa (1959), Dir. Lionel Rogosin 5. Land Apart (1974), Dir. Sven Persson 6. How Long (1976), Dir. Gibson Kente 7. My Country, My Hat (1982), Dir. David Bensusan 8. Cry Freedom (1987), Dir. Richard Attenborough 9. Sarafina! (1992), Dir. Darrell Roodt 10. Mapantsula (1988), Dir. Oliver Schmitz

ENJOY goldreefci Get the shaft or go for gold at Joburg’s best mega park the lowdown This must-visit park, museum and casino were designed around the theme of the discovery of gold in Gauteng. One of Gauteng’s most popular tourist attractions, it was built on a 10-hectare site around an authentic 19th-century gold mine — Crown Mines No 14 shaft, which once held the world record for the highest amount of gold recovered (1.4-million kg), as well as the shaft sinking record in 1916. The shaft was opened in 1897, only 11 years after Joburg was established, and was part of the gold reef that stretched 100km from Boksburg in the east to Randfontein in the west. In its time, No 14 was one of the deepest gold mines, going down 3 500m (57 levels) and worked by 30 000 miners. Now the old mining town has been reconstructed to capture the gold-rush era of Joburg in its Victorian heyday. This gem is only a stone’s throw (8km) from Joburg’s city centre.

what to do

WHERE TO STAY?

The place offers something for everyone: from gambling and tours to a Victorian hotel, restaurants and an amusement park. Your ticket, depending on the type, qualifies you for the fun fair rides, too. Taverns, inns and music halls all set the vibe to take you back in time. During the World Cup expect street parties and non-stop entertainment for the whole family, like robotics shows, clowns, bands, tribal dancing, “diski dancers”, strolling minstrels, gumboot dancers and even a mini farm. Plus, the Apartheid Museum is right next door. Escorted tours are available daily with experienced, multi-lingual guides. Why not use the train or a horse-drawn carriage to get around to all the attractions?

There are three accommodation options to choose from at Gold Reef City — the four-star hotel itself, the Protea Hotel, and the casino hotel. The rooms are reproductions of those at the turn of the century. Call 011 248 5700 for rates.

romancing the gold Grab a hard hat and lantern, descend into an unused mine shaft a few hundred metres and walk through the belly of Gauteng. A guide will tell you about what it was like to work in the gold mine until it was closed in 1977. Not for the claustrophobic! A short burst from a miner’s drill will give you a clear understanding as to why miners would go deaf without ear plugs. The tour is included in the “Jozi’s Story of Gold” tour (011 248 6896).

chance encounters Gamblers everywhere flock to the Gold Reef Casino to try their luck at the 1 600 state-ofthe-art slot machines and 60 tables. The popularity of the casino is in part due to its emphasis on modern technology, like a ‘‘coinless” environment and touch roulette table. It’s paradise for anyone who gets their kicks at the sound of “clink clink”.

flash in the pan At the Gold Reef City mint, you can watch the molten liquid being poured into gleaming bars of bullion. Or try your hand at panning for real gold.

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* The mine boggles

BOX CLEVER Get one of those silly sepia photos taken of your family all dressed up in Victorian clothing. Yeah, it’s cheesy, but it’s good for a laugh, or a sob.

vicious victuals

get there From JHB:

TAKE NOTE

Take the Ben Schoeman Highway M1 South past the CBD on your left. Take the Bloemfontein lane. Keep in the Bloemfontein lane until you get to the Booysens exit. Take the exit and follow the signs to Gold Reef City.

Contacts 011 248 5000, cnr Northern Parkway and Gold Reef roads, Ormonde, Joburg. Open 9.30am-5pm, Wed to Sun and all public holidays (bar Christmas). During Gauteng school holidays it is also open on Mondays. “Jozi’s Story of Gold” tours (R220pp/R140 senior citizens) run between 9am-3pm and include museum houses, the mine, gold-pouring demonstrations and all other park attractions.

rush hour on the reef

Stomach growling? In the theme park, you’ll find favourites like Wimpy, Milky Lane, Anat, Mugg & Bean and King Pie, while the casino offers dining delights from the likes of the Mediterranean Fishmonger, Back ‘O the Moon supper club and News Café.

The spectacular fun fair offers rides known for being the best in the country. And they’re not just for the kids. If you’re brave, we suggest the adrenaline-pumping Anaconda; the Tower of Terror (a vertical-drop rollercoaster that features a 47m plunge and a pull-out of 6.3Gs); the white-knuckle Jozi Express; or the Golden Loop (known for its acceleration and loss of gravity at points). The Giant Wheel, with a 55m diametre, may well be the largest in Africa. River Rapids is a fun, stomach-churning experience, but bring a spare set of clothing. If you’re into the more sedate, try the train ride. There is no additional charge for any of the rides if you have a rider card.

where’s what Raging River Rapids

Anaconda

Log Ride

Golden Loop

Golden Amphitheatre

Farm Yard

4D Theatre

HELI AND BACK Helicopter tours are also available if you’d like a bird’seye view of Joburg. Call 011 701 2332 for more.

Protea Hotel

catch a show Jozi Express

LOST REEF THE COVE

THUNDER MOUNTAIN

THE VILLAGE

shop yourself silly There’s a huge variety of shops with hand-made goodies. Hand-blown glass, African prints, leather goods, carvings — it’s unlikely you’ll return home empty-handed.

TOWN SQUARE KIDDIES’ CORNER

Hippodrome Mine and ticket office

back to the golden era “Jozi's Story of Gold” makes the history of gold come alive through industrial theatre and audio-visual clips. The tour celebrates a journey that started with the precious metal’s discovery and culminated in the creation of Africa's economic powerhouse.

The 4D cinema is the only one of its kind in Africa — you’re getting enhanced 3D with special effects and hydraulic seats. The 1 100-seat Lyric Theatre is laid out opera-house style while the more refined, intimate theatre, The Globe, offers comedy, musical and revue shows amid a cocktail setting and private bar. During the World Cup, it presents “High Kicks”, a sexy cabaret act with dancers and a contortionist (book via www.computicket.co.za). The football-themed “Jozi’s Winter Circus” is included in the entrance price.

Gold pour

Entrance

Bridge to Gold Reef City Casino

Giant Wheel

Tower of Terror

VISIT: http://www.timesurl.at/629629 for things to do at Apartheid Museum and Soweto

SEE thevoort Okay. Okay. Okay. We know that for many South Africans Pretoria’s Voortrekker Monument is a dark slab of concrete that, more than anything, symbolises the darkest days of this country. But, save for the radical act of razing it to the ground, the monument is here to stay, fulfilling architect Gerard Moerdijk’s vision of designing a “monument that would stand a thousand years”. And, actually, there are multiple reasons for undertaking a trek of your own to the monument that was originally built as a reminder of the history and meaning of the Great Trek ...

great what? 12

The Great Trek. It’s something that millions of school kids in South Africa groaned their way through during the apartheid years — but its significance in the history of the country cannot be denied. It was, in fact, the English who sent 10 000 Boers on the move between 1835 and 1854, in a push that has been likened in its scope to the exploration of America’s West. As those history books told us, the Voortrekkers (“pioneers”) were fleeing the English reign in the Cape Colony, believing the rulers didn’t provide enough independence for the Boer community. This arduous journey into the hinterland of the country led to the creation of several Boer republics — most notably the Orange Free State Republic, as well as the Transvaal Republic.

Entrance to site, including hiking trails and picnic area • Buses: R45 • Minibuses: R20 • All other vehicles, motorcycles: R20 Entrance to monument and museum • Adults: R35 • Scholars: R15 • Families (parents with own children under 18), vehicle included: maximum R100 Business hours (Monday to Sunday) • May 1 to Aug 31: 8am-5pm • Sept 1 to Apr 30: 8am-6pm

rtrekkermonument* * It’s hip to be square

lucky number 40 The Voortrekker Monument stands 40m high, with a base of 40m x 40m. It was eventually built to be seen from just about anywhere in Pretoria but, like the trek itself, it took a long time for the project to be completed. According to reports, it was on December 16 1888, while attending the Day of the Covenant celebrations at Blood River in Natal, that President Paul Kruger of the South African Republic first said it would be a pretty cool idea (okay, not exactly verbatim ... probably something far more fiery) to build a monument to the Voortrekkers. It took another 40 years or so for the project to get off the ground, and construction only started in July 1937 with a sod-turning ceremony. On December 16 1938 the cornerstone was laid by three descendants of some of the Voortrekker leaders. The monument was finally opened on December 16 1949 by then Prime Minister DF Malan.

WILD PIONEER COUNTRY The monument includes a nature reserve — its 341 hectares host zebra, impala and black wildebeest. Smaller animals like black-tailed mongoose, small spotted genet, rock hyrax, scrub hare, cane rat, hedgehog and porcupine are also found on the reserve, making a trip to the Voortrekker Monument suitable for a full day’s outing.

FAST FACT: The monument features a garden of remembrance, which lies just west of the building and pays tribute to the people who trekked over South Africa’s Drakensberg to gain independence. Mull this over while out on a canter in the reserve — just like the horsemen of the Great Trek did it. The Boer riders were some of the most formidable in the world, as the British discovered to their chagrin during the Anglo-Boer War. FYI If you missed the Radio Kalahari Orkes’s performance at the Voortrekker Monument (for hire, if you want an unusual place for your 40th), go to www.timesurl.at/f22947 to see their latest video. The Orkes (Orchestra) is a slightly unhinged juxtaposition of experimental, contemporary Afrikaans and the tightly conservative culture that defined apartheid. Look out for an inspired cameo by RKO songwriter and cult Afrikaans author Rian Malan.

voortrekker monument: 21st-century style For decades, Afrikaners would make pilgrimages to the monument — especially on December 16, the day that provided the site’s best viewing. (Since the onset of the democratic era in South Africa, however, this day has been transformed into a public holiday that can be celebrated by all South Africans: the Day of Reconciliation.) But ask anyone who has been to the monument recently and you’ll be hardpressed to find someone who isn’t awestruck by Moerdijk’s creation. “I was knocked out by the monument,” says well-known South African actor Ian Roberts, who is also the frontman of Afrikaans-roots outfit Radio Kalahari Orkes. “I did my army training in 1971 at Voortrekkerhoogte and used to look at the monument in a very, very different way to the way I saw it when we played there recently. I walked into the place and was struck by the fact that, at a time when anything to do with South African tradition is being eroded by neglect, the monument is being run very well. It’s an impressive building to walk around. The interior is so vast and you can climb up to the top and look out over all of Pretoria. And there were lots and lots of tourists there.”

inside the monument: a deep frieze The two main reasons to head into the monument itself are to see the historical frieze and cenotaph hall — both designed to deliver a highly charged emotional experience. • The unique marble frieze is an intrinsic part of the design: 27 bas-relief panels depict the story of the Great Trek, as well as daily life, between 1835 and 1852. • There’s an arch over the hall of heroes from where you can view the monument’s interior. On December 16 at 12pm every year, the sun shines through an opening in the arch onto the cenotaph’s centre and the words, “We for thee, South Africa.”

on yer bike Get fit while getting your culture fix. The Voortrekker Monument Heritage Site has hiking and cycling trails that are open to the public. In fact, the mountain bike trails are suitable for all bikers, from committed competition heads to beginners. All the routes start at the monument parking area, where you can safely park your car before taking to the trail.

VISIT thecradleofhumankind* * Make no bones about it

• In 1997 the extraordinarily complete Australopithecus skeleton, dating to around 3.3 million years ago, was discovered by Professor Ron Clarke. It became known as “Little Foot.”

significant finds • The ’30s were a good decade for the human species. In 1935 Robert Broom found the first ape-man fossils at the Sterkfontein Caves, while in 1938 the fragments of a skull found near Kromdraai were later identified as Paranthropus robustus. That same year there was also the discovery of a single ape-man tooth near Kromdraai and Sterkfontein. • In 1948 more hominid remains were identified at Swartkrans Cave. • In 1954 work began at Swartkrans Cave. The second largest sample of hominid remains would be found here. Oh, and the oldest controlled use (one million years ago) of fire was also discovered at Swartkrans.

Forty-five minutes outside of the city lies one of the world’s best places to see the beginnings of mankind It’s where it all began. The Cradle is home to our earliest ancestors. It’s an amazing window into our past, 51 000 hectares of rich history on the evolution of the human species. Some of the world’s oldest hominid fossils ever found — some dating as far back as 3.5 million years — have been discovered here. The site is possibly the world’s top spot in its concentration of hominid fossils. A thrilling day out for both tourists and locals, it’s unthinkable to be in Gauteng and not pay this aweinspiring world heritage site a visit. Scientists have long accepted that all humans had their origins in Africa. The Cradle comprises a strip of dolomitic limestone caves containing the fossilised remains of ancient animals, plants and, most importantly, humans. There are over 200 caves on the site, with possibly more to be discovered. A variety of stone tools have also been found.

The area made huge headlines in April this year with the announcement of a fossil that has been assigned to the new species Australopithecus sediba. The team of scientists, led by Professor Paul Dirks and Professor Lee Berger, believe this species may have been our direct ancestor, but some palaeoanthropologists have been a little more cautious about such grand platitudes. Regardless of whether we descend directly from A. sediba or not, it is a significant find of several fairly complete skeletons that will produce volumes of new information on the human family tree.

• In 1966 Phillip Tobias began scratching around at Sterkfontein. And at 85, he’s still doing so. His excavation is the longest-running fossil dig in the world.

• In 2001 skeletons of humans from around 70 000 years ago were found at Plovers Lake, while hominid fossils and stone tools were discovered at Coopers. • Then, in 2010, Lee Berger (below) discovered the partial remains of two hominids (Australopithecus sediba) in the Malapa fossil site. This hominid lived between 1.78 and 1.95 million years ago.

•In 1991 Lee Berger discovered the first hominid specimens from the Gladysvale site. This made it the first new early hominid site to be discovered in SA in 48 years.

ah, I see the resemblance

pricing Sterkfontein costs R110, Maropeng R115 and the combined tour will set you back R175. There are special rates for children, students and pensioners. Phone 014 577 9000 or go to www.maropeng.co.za.

what’s the missing link? (He is ) According to Darwin, we really are related to apes. Biochemical evidence has proven that the human line (Hominidae) split from African apes around five to six million years ago. Australopithecus africanus was present in the Cradle from about four to two million years ago. It’s likely that these hominids, especially Homo ergaster, present around one million years ago, were our direct ancestors, having a close resemblance to modern humans, Homo sapiens.

VISIT thecradleofhumankind* * Make no bones about it

• In 1997 the extraordinarily complete Australopithecus skeleton, dating to around 3.3 million years ago, was discovered by Professor Ron Clarke. It became known as “Little Foot.”

• In 1966 Phillip Tobias began scratching around at Sterkfontein. And at 85, he’s still doing so. His excavation is the longest-running fossil dig in the world.

•In 1991 Lee Berger discovered the first hominid specimens from the Gladysvale site. This made it the first new early hominid site to be discovered in SA in 48 years.

ah, I see the resemblance

VISIT thecradle * Make no bones about it

places to see There’s loads, including arts and crafts outlets and other places of historical interest dotted along the way.

MAROPENG MUSEUM It’s possibly one of the best museums in the country (call 014 577 9000). Along the pathway to the Tumulus building, check out an actual hominid excavation site. Once inside the museum, you can see fossils and stone tools discovered here. Don’t miss the interactive displays about how the earth was formed and how life emerged — they won’t bore adults and will keep the kids entertained for ages. Go down into the bowels of the earth for the fun and fascinating tugboat ride that takes you back in time. Then, take in the gorgeous view from the top of the amphitheatre.

THE WONDER CAVE The only other cave in the area open to the public. The enormous cave chamber is believed to be 2.2 million years old and contains beautiful drip formations, as well as a resident bat population. Hourly tours are conducted on well-lit pathways — no crawling necessary. It contains beautifully preserved speleothems — naturally formed cave sculptures. Although it was mined for lime in the past, its precipitous entrance, which is now filled by a quaint and rather dramatic lift, prevented excessive destruction such as that at Sterkfontein and elsewhere. 011 957 0106, www.wondercave.co.za

STERKFONTEIN CAVES The world’s richest hominid site (011 956 6342), Sterkfontein yielded the first adult australopithecine in 1936 and, in 1947, the almost complete skull of an Australopithecus africanus adult female — found by Dr Robert Broom (no “sweeping statement” jokes, please) . Nicknamed “Mrs Ples” by Broom’s co-workers, this famed find has been dated to around 2.6 million years old, helping corroborate the 1924 discovery of the Taung Child, unearthed by Raymond Dart in the Northwest Province. Fossils of ancient monkeys and sabretoothed cats have also been raised out of the ground. Tours through the caves run every half hour. Scientist-led trips to Sterkfontein can be organised by Palaeo Tours (011 726 8788, www.palaeotours.com).

SOUVENIR IDEA No 7 Why not help your tourist ankles with a pair of these durable leather hiking boots? Call Wildeboots on 014 557 9320 for pricing

leofhumankind* places to eat HEDWIGS Where: Zwartkop Gorge, Aloe Ridge Hotel and Game Reserve, Beyers Naude Drive, Zwartkops Digits: 011 957 2070 Known as one of Gauteng’s top restaurants, this wood and glass construction is set on a platform overlooking the Crocodile River and a ridge of aloes, floodlit at night. CARNIVORE RESTAURANT Where: Drift Boulevard, Muldersdrift Digits: 011 950 6061 Meat, meat and more meat, including warthog and impala, crocodile, zebra, giraffe and ostrich. Great South African vibe. You’ll make your way to the restaurant via a thatched walkway through the gardens and a water feature. The central attraction of the restaurant is a large, circular open fire with 52 converted Maasai tribal spears holding a variety of 10 different meats. Please don’t make us list them. THE THATCHERY Where: 26 Van Zyl Road, Steynsvlei, Muldersdrift Digits: 011 957 3575 Relaxed and scenic stop-off here for sundowners — the best kind. It’s been voted as one of the “five best country restaurants”. There’s a poolside lapa and a pub that offers lunches. ROOTS Where: Letamo Game Reserve, Bartlett Road, Kromdraai, Mogale City Digits: 011 668 7000 This gourmet restaurant serves fusion food and is consistently voted one of the best in the country. THE FLOATING RESTAURANT Digits: 012 244 1066 It’s in conjunction with Dockers Pub & Restaurant. Here you can eat on or next to Hartbeespoort Dam. There’s loads of live entertainment on offer.

place to sleep

Tired of caves? Bored stiff with tours and talks about hominids and ancient sabre-toothed cats? Then flip the page for a chance to spot some real lion

FORUM HOMINI Where: Kromdraai Road, Kromdraai, Mogale City Digits: 011 668 7000 Why not take a romantic break and stay over at the luxury Forum Homini Hotel for the night (no kids allowed — sorry). It’s situated in the Letamo Game Reserve.

SPOT lions* * Pray you don’t fall into the den

Here’s six spots to see some big cats. Careful, they bite.

RHINO AND LION NATURE RESERVE 520 Kromdraai Road, Krugersdorp 011 957 0109 www.rhinolion.co.za Here it’s not only about checking out the animals from afar — you can actually get cosy with the cubs, something that the kids will love. They will also adore the animal crèche and reptile park. Plus, there are live shows, from sprinting cheetahs to hissing snakes. More than 30 species of game, including three of the Big Five (lion, white rhino and buffalo), can be viewed from open vehicles with an experienced guide. You must do the tiger (you know the striped, orange cats) walk! Just 30 minutes north of Joburg. Pack a picnic and make a day of it.

NGONYAMA LION LODGE R24 Rustenburg Road, Krugersdorp West 011 950 9900 www.afribush.co.za Only 50km from Joburg, Ngonyama Lion Lodge is home to 30 mammal species and all of the Big Five except leopard. Get acquainted with the kings and queens of the bush at the reserve’s 100-hectare lion enclosure, and you won’t want to miss the lions feeding on Sunday mornings between 10am-11am. You can also choose a horseback safari, which allows you to get close without spooking the animals.

want to watch the sunset? here’s some of the best watering holes

JOHANNESBURG ZOO Upper Park Drive, Parkview 011 646 2000 www.jhbzoo.org.za On Fridays at 11am, you can watch lions play football at this zoo. The motivation is to get food, but in the process they’ll toss and tackle any ball and potential opponent. Watch out for Carnivore Week from July 5-9 — interactive sessions with guides will demonstrate what makes meat eaters tick.

THE LION PARK Cnr Malibongwe and R114, Lanseria 011 691 9905 www.lion-park.com The Lion Park is home to more than 85 lions, including the rare white lions (which are amazingly beautiful and a main attraction), and many other carnivores such as cheetah, wild dog, brown and spotted hyena and a variety of indigenous antelope. You can spot them as you drive through the reserve on your own. There’s also a space to give the cubs a cuddle, feed the tame giraffe and take a leisurely walk around. Why not book to stay overnight in one of their comfortable tents? The Lion Park is open every day of the year and has been a real hit with the world’s football stars.

PILANESBERG GAME RESERVE Bojanala region near Sun City, Northwest Province 014 555 1000 www.pilanesberg-gamereserve.co.za Set in the crater of an extinct volcano, the park is the fourth largest in South Africa. Simply the best place to see the Big Five. You can drive yourself or take a guide. Various accommodation options are available for overnight or longer stays.

PRETORIA ZOO Eddie Boom Street, Pretoria Lizzard 012 328 3265/232 www.zoo.ac.za Pretoria Zoo is the biggest zoo in the country and packed with every animal, bird, fish, reptile, amphibian, exotic tree and invertebrate you can think of. If you’ve ever dreamt of going to sleep to the roar of lions, book into one of their overnight camps. It includes a guided tour, but you need to bring your own food and tents.

THE UNION TERRACE The Pretoria Sheraton, cnr Church and Wessels streets, Pretoria. Digits: 012 429 9999 Sip a late-afternoon drink at this hotel and gaze at the nearby Union Buildings, which are where some of South Africa’s most dramatic events have unfolded. Hendrik Verwoerd, the father of apartheid and who was assassinated in 1966, was buried here. It’s also where President Nelson Mandela was inaugurated in 1994.

SOUTHERN SUN HOTEL First Road, Hyde Park shopping. Digits: 011 341 8080 This hotel has flowered out of the one side of a tres posh shopping centre. Mingle with Joburg’s hip, hot set here while watching the sun go down over the city’s suburbs.

THE WESTCLIFF 67 Jan Smuts Avenue, Westcliff, Joburg. Digits: 011 481 6000 The Westcliff has housed just about every A-list celebrity who’s jetted into Jozi since the early ’90s. Head for the terrace for a panoramic view of the city, the world’s biggest man-made forest.

THE SOWETO HOTEL ON FREEDOM SQUARE Cnr Union Avenue & Main Road, Walter Sisulu Square of Dedication, Kliptown, Soweto. Digits: 011 527 7300 “Jazz on the Stoep” is fast becoming a favourite session with Joburgers who want to relax in the township on Sundays while eating and drinking at this landmark Soweto establishment.

Do you know your Family History? Another branch in your family tree has been found. From 11 June – 11 July you can view the amazing hominin child “Karabo”, (meaning the Answer) the most complete early human ancestor skeleton ever discovered at the Origins Centre at Wits University. The premiere of the female skeleton of sediba, found lying next to “Karabo”, will be at Maropeng Visitors Centre, a World first. The special package of R210 per adult and R100 per child includes access to both Origins Centre and Maropeng, and a tour of Sterkfontein Caves. Maropeng and Sterkfontein are the official visitor centres in the Cradle of Humankind World Heritage Site. Offer valid from 11th June - 11th July 2010. Child rate applies to under 14. Terms and Conditions apply.

2010 SPECIAL 3 SITES – 1 PASS

t 014 577 9000 e info@maropeng.co.za www.maropeng.co.za

At the Origins Centre at Wits University, view the child fossil “Karabo” which has caused much excitement within and outside of scientific circles worldwide.

M1 North

EMPIRE ROAD

ORI

GIN

BOOM

t 011 717 4700 e ask@origins.org.za www.origins.org.za

CEN

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bridge

Wits University, Cnr Yale & Enoch Sontonga, Braamfontein, Joburg

PLANETARIUM

BOOM

JORRISON STREET

DOVES FUNERAL

Brammfontein off-ramp

Empire Road off-ramp

engen/ wimpy

RP AR

At Maropeng in the Cradle of Humankind World Heritage Site, view the female Australopithecus sediba fossil, on public view for the first time. Sterkfontein Caves is where some of the most important early human fossils have been found including “Mrs Ples” and “Little Foot”.

Origins Centre

Maropeng & Sterkfontein Caves

turn left at bottom off-ramp

M1 North

SMIT STREET

THIS WAY OUT

Magaliesbe

* Take a hike, do a meander, swing from a tree

It’s old, it’s beautiful and there’s fantastic stuff to do sixty million years into the making

“The Magaliesberg mountain range is a microcosm of the magnificence of nature and the turbulent history of South Africa.” So says Vincent Carruthers in his book, The Magaliesberg. And he’s right. As he puts it: “Its present tranquility belies the drama of its geological formation. More than two billion years ago huge seismic forces cracked the bed of an inland sea and tilted it skyward. Molten magma pumped into fissures and burned deep kloofs in the rock. Over millions of years the jagged peaks of the tilted seabed were scoured by a continental ice sheet, then buried in swamp, smothered under desert sands and finally capped with volcanic lava.” Sixty million years ago the layers of sand, lava and more began to wear away and, voila, the beauty of the Magaliesberg was revealed. And here’s a fascinating fast fact: at 2 400 million years, the Magaliesberg mountains are the second oldest in the world.

go hang out

* There’s a huge number of fun things to do in the Magaliesberg. The area is home to some of South Africa’s best spas — most notably MOUNT GRACE COUNTRY HOUSE & SPA (014 577 5600) — as well as the renowned BILL HARROP’S ORIGINAL BALLOON SAFARIS (011 705 3201). Gliding, microlighting, chilling on the cheese farms, walking, climbing ... the Magalies bucket list does go on. Magaliesberg Meander pamphlets are in tourist hotspots and make working your way around this ancient but thriving place easy enough.

1 Literally. The Magaliesberg Canopy Tour takes place in the Ysterhout Kloof (part of the Magaliesberg mountain range) and departs from the Sparkling Waters Hotel and Spa. Featuring a tree-top system designed and constructed by a civil engineer, the two-and-a-half hour tour snakes through the mountain canopy and is led by two trained guides who relate interesting facts about the history of the range, surrounding ecology, bird and animal life. Booking is essential (014 535 0150).

2 MELON ROUGE RESTAURANT 48 Zeekoeihoek Road, Magaliesberg 014 577 1951 If you’re into food and reading, as well as arts and crafts, this is the perfect one-stop shop. Dishy food at the restaurant, which is shaded by olive trees, can be followed by a browse through the art gallery and a wander through the nicely stocked secondhand bookshop, Wormwood Books. An infinitely relaxing way of keeping your mind active and your tummy from rumbling.

what, me worry?

erg*

SEE hartbeespoort For a place that overflows with Joburg and Pretoriabased weekend trippers in the summer, armed with speedboats and sunscreen, there’s something quaint about Hartbeespoort and its dam. Maybe it’s because of that moment when you head through the old village of Schoemansville and the traffic slows to a crawl — forcing even South Africa’s notoriously fast drivers to take in the prettiness of the area. Of course, since the days horses moved through the streets of Schoemansville, Harties — as the dam and surrounds are known by locals — has been built up on just about all sides, and some say it has been to the detriment of the place. That doesn’t mean Harties isn’t worth the short 45-minute or less drive from Pretoria or Jozi — especially if you decide to take a meandering drive en route to Rustenburg. There’s a platter of fun activities to do — and, if you have a family in tow, Hartbeespoort can deliver something for just about every age.

winter be dammed!

THE BRAAIING GAME

4 In this weather parasailing, windsurfing, water and jet

6 Tant Malie se Winkel (Aunt Malie’s

skiing would probably be madness — but that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the water at Harties. There are many companies that offer boat cruises on the dam — some, like the Party Boat People (tagline? “The best DAM parties in Africa”), offer food and drink as well. There are two cruises per day on each of their boats, departing and returning at 10am-2pm or 4pm-8pm, meaning you have four hours in which to while away the time and gaze at the area’s primordial mountains (083 251 8784 or info@partyboat.co.za).

Shop, open 8am-5pm) is an institution in Harties. Open for 25 years and located close to the old bridge, it’s the perfect place to get a taste of yesterday, says manager Jannie Grobler. “There aren’t many other places that evoke Afrikaner culture like we do. We even have old-fashioned sweets that I promise you, visitors of every age group like.” Sample traditional dishes like bobotie and oxtail, and on public holidays and the weekend a braai is on offer. Patrons buy meat at the shop and get pap (dry porridge) and sauce to go with it. The word from Grobler is that he can make a plan for visitors wanting to braai on other days of the week. Just ring him on 083 458 3957.

choose your poison

3 OASIS TANNING Plot 9, Dancornia, Brandvlei, Randfontein 011 416 2270/2288 This leading tannery is not strictly on the way to the Magaliesberg — but it is your chance to see pink-dyed cowhide chairs, leather rugs and full-sized, stuffed lions. Not to be missed if you have Ernest Hemingway aspirations. Group tours show how leather and game skins are created — but it’s probably safe to add here that this is one stop-off that has not been designed to appease the lily-livered. FYI: The tannery is situated near Tarlton International Raceway, one of the country’s biggest drag-racing facilities.

5 For bambinos and bigger kids there’s the Hartbeespoort Dam Snake and Animal Park (012 253 1162). Aside from enough slithering creatures to keep Lord Voldemort happy, the park features other animals, like the small spotted cat, the Cape vulture and wild dog. The park has a seal pool surrounded by a large arena where visitors are given regular snake, seal and animal-handling demonstrations on weekends and during the holidays.

MAGALIESBERG MEANDER Rest assured, the days of fire and ice are long gone and these days the Magaliesberg Meander offers a peaceful retreat from the chaos of urban living in Gauteng. Four teams competing in the World Cup have all bedded down here: England, North Korea, Portugal and Australia. But football-star spotting is just an added benefit to getting in a car and heading to the Meander any day of the week. Outdoor activities, arts, yummy food and spectacular sights are all good reasons for a run out to these parts (call 083 259 0444 for details).

6 4

SHOP magaliesb This winding berg passage is a Pandora’s Box of strange craft, from multimillionyear-old shark teeth to glass arts THE RAKU GANG: The ancient Japanese method of raku firing has been used to create this striking meerkat sculpture (Tiger’s Eye, R150)

IN THE MIDDLE CYRIL: Add pizzazz to your table with this face-design, centre-piece plate (Emmanuel Glass and Design, R550), made by well-known Dutch glass artist Frank van den Ham, who has set up his Magaliesberg studio to give budding artists the opportunity to concentrate on their craft in an idyllic setting HEADLIGHT: This candle-stick holder (Tiger’s Eye, R150) cleverly reflects the habit of African women who carry all sorts of household cargo on their head GO DENTAL: This prehistoric shark-tooth necklace (Fang + Fossil, R200) has been handmade in South Africa and features the authentic fangs from the now extinct Otodus obliquus (mackerel shark), which hung about the oceans between 42 and 68 million years ago

deep brew sea Tired of drinking prescribed beer at the stadium? Consider a visit to Monate Sitruskelder (that’s “citrus cellar”) at Hartbeespoort Dam, which arranges cellar tours and wine tastings for a small fee. Pick up a bottle of Naartjie Citrus Monate (R65), an alcoholic drink bound to intrigue your guests when you uncork it at your next dinner party.

sberg

out of the blaau Why take home a collection of candles crafted by someone else when you can design your own at the Blaaubank Original Store? Dip your own candles here — prices range from R2 to R700. The items at the store include this orange and green candle with stand (R100) and the World Cup trophy candle (R150).

NOAH’S ART: Drawing inspiration from the wildlife that roam the veld, this wood-carved lamp shade (African Heritage stall at Chameleon Village, R450) was made in Kenya SOLE PROVIDER: While the late, great designer Alexander McQueen called a pair of his sky-high heels “Zulu sandals”, they looked nothing like the authentic “Izimbhadada” or Zulu traditional footwear (African Heritage stall, Chameleon Village, R150 a pair), made from leather skins and soles fashioned from recycled car tyres (which adds super durability) CONTACTS African Heritage 076 712 6450 Blaaubank Original Store 079 426 1872 Crystal Feeling 014 577 2182 Emmanuel Glass and Design 078 678 6536 Monate Sitruskelder 012 258 3002 Puss ’n Boots 014 577 3562 Tiger’s Eye 014 557 9053 Fang + Fossil 014 557 9320 Wildeboots 014 557 9320

23 WORLD CUP: Sip your hot beverage of choice out of this mug (Puss ’n Boots, R295), hand-crafted by Magaliesberg designer Carolyn Heydenrych

glittering find The little ones will love going on a treasure hunt at Crystal Feeling’s crystal cave, set along the Magaliesberg Meander. The store features an impressive collection of crystals collected from all over the world as well as locally, like the Magaliesberg crystal pendant (R120), which was sourced from the local mountain range. The store also peddles lamp stands (R110) that allow you to light up your crystals for an evocative display.

MAP gauteng* * Finding your bearings

47 28

30 46

33 58 52

44 42

57 48 53 38 34 35

18 2 32

25 21 11

45 16

24 29

6 8

39 50 20 23

14 56 27 10

36 37

54 RESTAURANTS 1. Carnivore Restaurant, 011 950 6061 2. Floating Restaurant (The), 012 244 1066 3. Hedwigs, 011 957 2070 4. Melon Rouge Restaurant, 014 577 1951 5. Nambitha, 011 536 1379 6. Roots, 011 668 7000 7. Thatchery (The), 011 957 3575

HOTELS 8. Forum Homini, 011 668 7000 9. Gold Reef City Casino Hotel, 011 248 5152 10. Gold Reef City Protea Hotel, 011 248 5700 11. Mount Grace Country House & Spa, 014 577 5600 12. Pretoria Sheraton (The), 012 429 9999 13. Southern Sun Hotel Hyde Park, 011 341 8080 14. Soweto Hotel (The), 011 527 7300 15. Westcliff (The), 011 481 6000 PERFORMANCES & ART 16. Blues Room (The), 011 784 5527 17. Everard Read Gallery, 011 788 4805 18. Hartebeespoort Dam Snake & Animal Park, 012 253 1162 19. Joburg Theatre, 011 877 6800 20. Kippies Jazz Club, 011 836 1805 21. Magaliesberg Canopy Tour, 014 535 0150 22. Mandela House, 011 936 7754 23. Market Theatre, 011 832 1641 24. Party Boat People (The), 083 251 8784 25. Oasis Tanning, 011 416 2270 26. Rendezvous Theatre, 012 392 4000 27. Spaza Art Gallery, 011 614 9354 28. State Theatre (The), 011 648 7385 29. Tant Malie se Winkel, 083 458 3957 30. Teatro Montecasino, 011 510 7999 31. Victory Theatre, 011 728 9603

HERITAGE, RECREATION & SHOPPING 32. African Heritage, 076 712 6450 33. Blaaubank Original Store, 079 426 18 72 34. Crystal Feeling, 014 577 2182 35. Emmanuel Glass and Design, 078 678 6536 36. Gold Reef City Heritage Tour Office, 011 248 6896 37. Gold Reef City Theme Park, 011 248 6800 38. Harrop’s Original Balloon Safaris, 011 705 3201 39. Hector Pieterson Museum (The), 011 536 0611 40. Johannesburg Zoo, 011 646 2000 41. Lion Park (The), 011 691 9905 42. Maropeng, 014 577 9000 43. Monate Sitruskelder, 012 258 3002 44. Ngonyama Lion Lodge, 011 950 9900 45. Old Mutual Theatre on the Square, 011 883 8606 46. Pilanesberg Game Reserve, 014 555 1000 47. Pretoria Zoo, 012 328 3265 48. Puss ’n Boots, 014 577 3562 49. Rhino and Lion Nature Reserve, 011 957 0109 50. SAB World of Beer, 011 836 4900 51. Sandton Convention Centre, 011 269 6960 52. Sterkfontein Caves, 014 577 9000 53. Tiger’s Eye, 014 557 9053 54. Tswaing Tourism Office, 012 322 7632 55. Voortrekker Monument, 012 326 6770 56. Walter Sisulu Square, 011 945 3111 57. Wildeboots, 014 557 9320 58. Wonder Cave, 011 956 6342

Yeah, yeah we know it’s not to scale. But look at the pretty colours

MAP index* * By the numbers

BARS & PUBS Bohemian (The), 011 482 1725 Bulldogs Pub and Grub, 011 447 6918 Herr Gunters, 012 362 6975 Jolly Roger (The), 011 442 3954 Junction Street Pub, 083 967 7701 Oppi Square, 012 362 8015 Pirates Sports Club, 011 646 5025 Rats, 082 903 0248 Six Cocktail Bar, 011 482 8306 Stones, 011 726 1623 Trancesky, 011 726 2241 World of Sports Action Bar, 012 337 0223 Xai-Xai, 011 482 6990

3728 Primi Bazala, 011 938 1491 Prosopa, 012 460 1663 Radium Beer Hall (The), 011 728 3866 Robby’s Place, 011 933 7965 Roots, 011 668 7000 Sakhumzi, 011 536 1379 Sophiatown, 011 836 5999 Thatchery (The), 011 957 3575 Tings an’ Times Pita Bar, 012 430 3176 Toni’s Pizza Co, 012 329 9000, 012 329 7435 Troyeville Hotel (The), 011 402 7709 Truth Café (The), 011 309 4700 Wandies Place, 011 326 1700

NIGHTCLUBS Alexander Theatre (The), 082 699 6733 Bassline (The), 011 838 9142 Dropzone, 012 362 6528 Gin, 084 555 9585 House of Nsako, 011 402 7709 Inc. The Club, 011 403 9833 Jet Nightclub, www.myjet.co.za Kitchener’s Carvery Bar, 011 403 3646 Nikki Beach, 011 823 5714 Ozone, 011 938 1493 Rock (The), www.therock.co.za Tanz Café, 082 855 5445 Tokyo Sky, 011 465 0704 Woods (The), 082 332 5772 Zanzu, 012 362 4122 Zouk Ultra-Lounge, 073 362 7095

BREAKFAST JOINTS Bicccs, 012 346 3203 Ciao Baby Cucina, 011 675 1801/2 Mugg & Bean, 011 788 7111 Wimpy, 011 646 7434

RESTAURANTS Addictions, 011 646 8981 Adega, 011 907 0372 A’la Turka, 012 662 4314 Attic (The), 011 880 6102 Bombay Blues, 011 447 3210 Bronberg Lodge, 076 452 6182 Canteen at Arts on Main (The), 011 334 5947 Carnivore Restaurant, 011 950 6061 Cheaters, 011 938 1381 Co-fi, 012 342 1726 Col’Cacchio, 011 463 5034 Cool Runnings Joburg, 011 482 4786 Cool Runnings Pretoria, 012 362 0100 Debonairs, 011 402 6060 Doppio Zero, 011 646 8740 Floating Restaurant (The), 012 244 1066 Gramadoelas, 011 838 6960 Hedwigs, 011 957 2070 Kai Thai, 011 511 1844 KFC, 011 402 9193 La Cucina di Ciro, 011 442 5187 Lapa Fo, 011 486 2651 Lekgotla, 011 884 9555 Li Bel, 012 343 8277 Lucky Moo, 011 492 0628 Meat Company (The), 011 511 0235 Melon Rouge Restaurant, 014 577 1951 Moyo Melrose Arch, 011 684 1477 Moyo Zoo Lake, 011 646 0058 Nambitha, 011 536 1379 Narina Trogon, 011 339 6645 Nikki’s Oasis, 011 492 1134 Papa’s Real Food, 012 362 2224 Pipas Portuguese Restaurant, 012 341

HOTELS 12 Decades Art Hotel, 011 334 1054 Forum Homini, 011 668 7000 Gold Reef City Casino Hotel, 011 248 5152 Gold Reef City Protea Hotel, 011 248 5700 Mapungubwe Hotel, 011 429 2600 Mount Grace Country House & Spa, 014 577 5600 Pretoria Sheraton (The), 012 429 9999 Southern Sun Hotel Hyde Park, 011 341 8080 Soweto Hotel (The), 011 527 7300 Sunnyside Park Hotel (The), 011 640 0400 Westcliff (The), 011 481 6000 PERFORMANCES & ART Artist Proof Studio, 011 492 1278 Arts on Main, 011 334 1054 Blues Room (The), 011 784 5527 Circa on Jellicoe, 011 788 4805 Espresso Jazz Café, 011 888 6212 Everard Read Gallery, 011 788 4805 Goodman Gallery, 011 788 1113 Hartebeespoort Dam Snake & Animal Park, 012 253 1162 Joburg Theatre, 011 877 6800 Kippies Jazz Club, 011 836 1805 Ko’Spotong, 011 836 5999 Linder Auditorium, 011 728 5492 Magaliesberg Canopy Tour, 014 535 0150 Mandela House, 011 936 7754 Market Theatre, 011 832 1641 Nirox Sculpture Park, 083 625 6761 Pan African Craft Exhibition, 011 011 4100 Party Boat People (The), 083 251 8784 Oasis Tanning, 011 416 2270 Pretoria Art Museum, 012 344 1807/8 Rendezvous Theatre, 012 392 4000 Sophiatown Bar Lounge, 011 836 5999 Spaza Art Gallery, 011 614 9354 State Theatre (The), 011 648 7385 Tant Malie se Winkel, 083 458 3957 Teatro Montecasino, 011 510 7999 Theatre of Marcellus at

Emperors Palace, 083 251 2205 Victory Theatre, 011 728 9603 HERITAGE, RECREATION & SHOPPING Absolute Kid, 011 447 8246 African Craft Market, 011 783 4620, 011 880 2906 African Heritage, 076 712 6450 Apartheid Museum, 011 309 4700 Art Africa, 011 486 2052 Bensusan Museum, 011 833 5624 Big Blue, 011 783 0779, 011 880 3994 Blaaubank Original Store, 079 426 18 72 Bryanston Organic & Natural Market, 011 706 3671 Constitution Hill, 011 381 3100 Constitutional Court, 011 359 7400 Coricraft Lifestyles, 011 884 2977 Croft & Co, 011 646 3634 Crown Mines Golf Club, 011 496 1505 Crystal Feeling, 014 577 2182 Ebotse Golf Club, 011 749 1638 Emmanuel Glass and Design, 078 678 6536 Fabiani, 011 783 3663 Fang + Fossil, 014 557 9320 Fred Eboka Design Studio, 011 447 7006 Glendower Golf Club, 011 453 1013 Gold Reef City Heritage Tour Office, 011 248 6896 Gold Reef City Theme Park, 011 248 6800 Harrop’s Original Balloon Safaris, 011 705 3201 Hector Pieterson Museum (The), 011 536 0611 Irene Market, 012 667 1659 Johannesburg Art Gallery, 011 725 3130 Johannesburg Country Club, 011 202 1600 Johannesburg Zoo, 011 646 2000 Jozi Food Market, 072 739 8758 Lion Park (The), 011 691 9905 Maropeng, 014 577 9000 Metro Mall (The), 011 492 1551 Michelangelo Towers Mall, 011 245 4000 Monate Sitruskelder, 012 258 3002 Morara Wine Emporium, 011 982 2290 Museum Africa, 011 833 5624 Ngonyama Lion Lodge, 011 950 9900 Old Mutual Theatre on the Square, 011 883 8606 Origins Centre, 011 717 4700 Orlando Towers, 082 895 1250, 082 895 1279 Panyaza, 011 938 1491 Parkview Golf Club, 011 280 5600 Pilanesberg Game Reserve, 014 555 1000 Pretoria Zoo, 012 328 3265 Puss ’n Boots, 014 577 3562 Preview, 011 884 0402 Rhino and Lion Nature Reserve, 011 957 0109 Robot, 011 884 2977 Rosebank Rooftop Market, 011 442 4488 Royal Johannesburg & Kensington Golf

Club, 011 640 3021 SAB World of Beer, 011 836 4900 Sandton Convention Centre, 011 269 6960 Serengeti Golf & Wildlife Estate, 011 552 7200 Sterkfontein Caves, 014 577 9000 Tiger’s Eye, 014 557 9053 Tswaing Tourism Office, 012 322 7632 Voortrekker Monument, 012 326 6770 Walter Sisulu Square, 011 945 3111 Wanderers Golf Club (The), 011 447 3311 Wildeboots, 014 557 9320 Wonder Cave, 011 956 6342 Woodhill Country Club, 012 998 0021 Xarra Books, 011 832 3069 Zasekhaya Market, 072 721 1953 STADIUMS Ellis Park Stadium, 011 402 8644 Loftus Versfeld Stadium, 012 344 4011 Soccer City Stadium, www.soccercity2010.co.za FAN PARKS Ekurhuleni Welcome Village, 011 999 0111 Fifa Fan Fest Pretoria/Tshwane, www.titans.co.za Fifa Fan Fest Sandton, www.timesurl.at/89b487 Fifa Fan Fest Soweto, www.timesurl.at/89b487 Giant Stadium, www.tshwane.gov.za/fanfest.cfm Indawo Commercial Public Viewing Area, 011 577 6183 Innisfree Park, www.timesurl.at/89b487 International Football Village, 011 897 0000 Mary Fitzgerald Square, www.newtown.co.za Themba Sports Ground, www.tshwane.gov.za/fanfest.cfm TOWNSHIP TV Diepkloof Park, Immink Street, Diepkloof, Soweto Diepsloot Park, Sarafina Park Ext 2, Midrand Eldorado Park, Stand RE 3032, Kremetart Street, Eldorado Park Ext 3 Ivory Park, Haile Selassie Street, Ivory Park Joubert Park, Cnr Wolmarans and King George streets, Joburg Lenasia, Rose Avenue, Zone 3, Lenasia Orange Farm, just off Regional Street in Orange Farm Ext 1 Orlando West Park, Armitage Street, Soweto Thokoza Park, Zone 3, 1682 Ntuli Street, Moroka (off Old Potch Road), Soweto