20 • TAMPA BAY’S TOP RESTAURANTS
ASIAN FUSION
Anise Global Gastrobar 777 N Ashley Drive, Tampa; (813) 225-4272; $ One of the prettiest restaurants in Tampa is poised for change. A private dining room, annexed from the defunct Five Guys next door, debuts with seating up to 25, and an expanded kitchen means a major menu overhaul have recently been unveiled. I hear people fidgeting — no, this does not mean the stinky buns or the truffled tater tots will be eighty-sixed. Partner Xuan “Sing” Hurt says they’ll keep the crowd favorites. Hurt and partners, husband Kevin, Rafael Millan, Ro Patel and Mai Tran, took a chance on downtown, which, with Curtis Hixon Waterfront Park, the Riverwalk and a dramatic influx of residents and businesses, has paid dividends. They’re in a great location, but it is the strength of the sprightly Korean-ish/southeast Asian range of flavors, combined with a raft of smart cocktails (kudos to bar manager Ryan Brown) and a live DJ in the late evenings, that has made Anise a happening spot at lunch and dinner. MUST EAT: The Hurts ran the Stinky Bunz food truck from whence braised pork belly with kimchi buns and red curry crispy chicken buns came. More recently they’ve added a range of burgers, some Asian-accented cheese and charcuterie and a great gluten-free Korean japchae noodle dish to which you can add a protein of choice.
Souzou 435 Fifth Ave. N, St. Petersburg; (727) 823-4050; $$ Friends Mike Harting and Patrick Marston had a good idea: Debut a sophisticated Asian fusion restaurant pretty enough for date night and with prices that accommodate families, but containing one extra-rare ingredient — parking. They achieved this by building a bit away from the downtown St. Petersburg fray on the ground floor of Marston’s new office building. With new managing partner Chris Watson taking over for Julie Parrish, Souzou has hit its stride, opening for lunch late last year and adding its first big menu change at the start of 2016. Heavy on the sushi and with noodles and hot dishes that amble between China, Japan and Thailand, the vision is moving slightly away from small plates and shareables and toward more substantial entrees. MUST EAT: Bouncy pork and beef meatballs called tsukune get a sweet hoisin glaze and a crunchy, contrasting Asian slaw for a great shared app, but at lunchtime the tempura-fried snapper tacos with cabbage and Sriracha aioli will bring a little drama to your work life. (Bargain hunters: These tacos and other nibbles are offered at a discount during the sunset menu, 5 to 7 p.m.) The sake list has gained steam, emerging as the one to beat in Tampa Bay, with more than a dozen in different styles by the bottle, above, and five by the glass or offered as sake flights.