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Reaping a wild harvest
It’s easy for Aucklanders to fawn over celebrity bakers such as Loaf’s Sean Armstrong, but east Auckland has its own star baker. NATALIE BRITTAN follows the breadcrumbs leading to the man behind Wild Wheat, and asks what’s baking in his ovens for Christmas. The first thing to cross Andrew Fearnside’s mind when he wakes up is the weather. “As a baker, it’s really important to pay attention to what the weather’s doing,” says the owner and founder of the award-winning Wild Wheat Specialty Breads. “A good baker can predict how the bread’s going to feel. Typically, bread does better when the weather’s cloudy and cooler – mid-10s to 20°C.” Of course, humidity is a factor too, but thankfully, Andrew has a natural aptitude for baking – a discovery he made as a young chef assigned to the bakery of London’s Le Pont de La Tour some 20 years ago. “I understood the principles of baking very quickly. I had this gut feeling and got it straightaway.” Returning to New Zealand in the ‘90s, and after a stint at Pandoro, Andrew began tossing around the idea of owning his own restaurant but the grains of wheat were firmly sown. “I wanted something long-term. You can be a very good chef but it isn’t enough; people move on as soon as a new restaurant pops up. Bread, however, has long-term value.” So, in 1999, Andrew set up Wild Wheat in Howick and began wholesaling continental loaves to the hospitality sector.
Today, the business encompasses a Pakuranga factory and three retail arms in Mt Eden, Howick’s Picton Street and Belmont. Wild Wheat also supplies numerous restaurants, cafes and gourmet food stores. Incidentally, the Picton Street shop is just a “stone’s throw” from where Andrew was born at the former Howick Maternity Hospital. And while the former Howick College student now lives in Manurewa – with plans to relocate to a four-hectare property in the Hunua ranges – he remains loyal to the area where he grew up. Parents Norma and Larry still live in Howick. Thanks to his mum a love of cooking was ingrained from an early age; credit goes to his Yorkshireman dad for an impeccable work ethic. The ambitious firstborn had his first taste of a chef’s life as a 14-year-old apprentice at Bell House restaurant in Pakuranga. It was horrible, Andrew recalls. “I had the stuffing completely knocked out of me.” And the path to becoming a chef was one less travelled. “I was the only boy in my Home Economics class!” Things took a turn for the better when Malcolm and Joy Scott from Shamrock Cottage took him under their wing and after completing a City & Guilds qualification in culinary arts at the
Guylian’s original marbled chocolate sea shells are made from the finest West African cocoa beans and filled with a delicious, roasted-hazelnut praline
Auckland Institute of Technology (now AUT), the rest was history. These days, the baking mitts are off as Andrew takes on the more strategic role of production manager and overseer of the 24-7 operation. Simplicity, consistency and the management of Wild Wheat’s 30-odd staff members are crucial, he says. “I used to think that I could do it all. But, really, I can’t do it without my staff.” Of course, the only time Andrew can “totally switch off” is Christmas Day. However, first the biggest hurdle needs to be overcome – the baking of 90,000 fruit mince pies. And these are no ‘traditional’ offerings. “As a child I was a fussy bugger and never ate Christmas pudding or cake! This time, I’m making something I can eat.” In addition to mince pie essentials
such as orange peel and mixed spice, the creative baker has opted also for the delectable combination of cranberries and chocolate with a twist of grappa to “sharpen things up”. Naturally, old favourite, Stollen, remains on the Wild Wheat menu, with its nostalgic blend of rumsoaked fruit and marzipan imbued with a shot of amaretto liqueur. Other Christmas Day essentials are well taken care of thanks to Andrew’s mum, and sister, Sarah, both great cooks. In fact, the unusually trim chef admits he is prone to overindulgence. “I’m one of those fortunate people who never put on weight – my father’s the same.” With Christmas being about family Andrew says: “My family has played a big part in my life – I am extremely lucky to have their support.”
Range of Artisan, European-style breads, pastries & savouries Winner of the Metro Best Bread Shop Auckland 2012 every year since 2004 – 2012 NZ FOOD AWARDS WINNER
Guylian is the world’s favourite Belgian chocolate and the ideal, indulgent gift, for someone special
Order your Christmas goodies now, freshly baked pastries, pies and stolens Open right up until Christmas 114 Picton St, Howick (opp Moore St) Ph 535 9262 • www.wildwheat.co.nz
E512108
www.eastlife.co.nz
‘BEST OF AUCKLAND’ - VOTED BEST BREAD SINCE 2004, BEST BAKERY 2011
OPEN 7 DAYS: Mon to Fri 7am-6pm, Sat & Sun 7am-4pm eastlife | december 2013 |
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