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www.timeout.com Autumn/Winter 2015




Time Out Buenos Aires Published by Malacara Publishing SA Pasaje Soria 5012, 1a C1414BLD Buenos Aires +54 11 4831 1539 info@timeoutba.com

Published under the authority of and in collaboration with Time Out International Ltd London UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000 www.timeout.com © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2015 Time Out Buenos Aires Team Director Mark Rebindaine Director Gonzalo Gil Editor Emily Jensen – editor@timeoutba.com Deputy Editor Rosie Hilder Food and Drink Editor Allie Lazar Wine Editor Sorrel Moseley-Williams Proofreader Emma Clifton Fact-checker/Intern Sarah Feneck Graphic designer Sofía Iturbe Distribution Mau Banach – mau@timeoutba.com Administration Mau Banach – mau@timeoutba.com Time Out Group Founder Tony Elliott Chief Executive Officer Tim Arthur Chief Financial Officer Matt White Chief Marketing Officer Sarah Bartlett Chief Technical Officer Dave Cook International Managing Director David Woodley Global Editor-in-Chief Marcus Webb Head of Global Content Chris Bourn Art Director, Brand Anthony Huggins International Account Manager Will Salmon Contributors Vik Arrieta, Matt Chesterton, Adam Corl, Sarah Feneck, Joseph Foley, Rosie Hilder, Emily Jensen, Sam Kelly, Allie Lazar, Clemmy Manzo, Caitlin McCann, Claire McKeever, Sorrel Moseley-Williams, Sorcha O’Higgins, Sophie Parker, Mark Rebindaine, Tom Rixton. Photography Ezequiel Poccard. Contributing Photographers Pablo Baracat, Adrien de Bontin, Mariano Brusa, Emily Anne Epstein, Carlos Furman, Facundo Gary, Rosie Hilder, Emily Jensen, Allie Lazar, Ana Luz Crespi, Florencio Rey, Nicolás Romero Escalada, Kyle Short, Lars Stephen, Lucy Valerio, Zattti.


Out and about

4 City beat

17 Food & Drink

The word on the street in BA

6 Dates for your diary

The best festivals and events

8 You did what in Buenos Aires? Explore BA’s quirky delights

10 Eat like a porteño

Learn to love the porteño diet

12 Spanish guide

All the slang, phrases and gestures you need to speak like an Argentinian

OVER TO YOU We’d love to read your comments on this issue, or your thoughts on places we should consider including in the next one. Drop us a line at editor@timeoutba.com

18 Cafés 23 Restaurants 68 Food and drink index

69 Nightlife

70 Bars 82 Clubs 90 Nightlife index

91 Shopping

92 Shopping 108 Health and beauty 110 Markets 110 Shopping index

111 Arts & Leisure

112 Around town 118 Museums 121 Art 125 Film and media 127 Fitness and sports 130 Gay and lesbian

Additional Images The 5th Floor, Algodon Mansion, Alma Histórica Boutique Hotel, Astor, BAIS Argentina, Bernata, Biking Buenos Aires, La Carnicería, Casa Cavia, La Causa Nikkei, Chicco Ruiz, Chipper, Cocina Sunae, Cualquier Verdura, Elsi del Río, Fabulous Weddings, Feria Puro Diseño, Foto Ruta, Galería Union, Guaraní Porã, La Guarra, Julia Alvarez Joyería and Catalina Semilla, Leitmotiv, Liv, Mambo, La Mar, Meme, El Mercado, Mio Buenos Aires, Mishiguene, Monoblock, Niceto Club, Onda Vaga, Out & About Gay Pub Crawl, Own Grand Palermo Soho, Patrón, Pesqueira, Plata Nativa, Poetry Building, Puesto Viejo Polo Club, Studio Fotín, Tesla, Thames, Treintasillas, Uco, Unión Tienda, Verne Club, Violraviol, Vitrum Hotel.

133 Music 136 Performing arts 139 Tango

Illustrations Emiliano Guevara, Gustavo Guevara. Cover Photo Jocelyn Mandryk

143 Where to Stay 144 Hotels 156 Apart-hotels 157 Hostels 158 Telos 158 Hotels index

159 Getting Away

160 Mendoza special 162 Day trips 164 Estancias 165 Weekend trips

167 Resources

168 Useful information 169 Sticking around 170 City map 172 Transport and Subte map

©Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2015 While every effort and care has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors it may contain. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, without prior permission of Time Out. ISSN 9771851562015 00020

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 1


City Beat

A vision of Néstor Kirchner is about to loom large over Buenos Aires

Néstor lives With Néstor Kirchner’s legacy soon to be cemented in a massive cultural centre, Evita isn’t the only public figure haunting Buenos Aires


Néstor vive! could be Argentina’s most ubiquitous graffito, adorning railway sidings, plinths and car parks since late 2010. It was in September of that year that doctors unblocked the arteries of former president Néstor Kirchner, and told him that he needed to slow down – or else. Kirchner chose option two. Three days after the procedure, he was guest of honour at a huge political rally in Buenos Aires. A month later he was dead. He was 60 years old. Kirchner is no Elvis; no one believes he’s out there somewhere. But the graffiti scrawlers have it half right: the legend lives and breathes. Chief tender of the legacy is his widow, current president Cristina Fernández de Kirchner, who succeeded her husband in 2007 (Néstor served from 2003), was re-elected in 2011, and is constitutionally obliged to step down in December 2015. Few major speeches pass without a mention of ‘him’ (only the pronoun is needed) and a reverential glance skywards. More tangible tributes dot the landscape, in the shape of Kirchner-branded facilities: abattoirs, statues, bridges, kids’ playgrounds, bus stations . . . the list is as endless and repetitive as the Argentinian plains. However, these are tossed-off eulogies next to the mother of all Kirchner tributes: the Néstor Kirchner Cultural Centre (Sarmiento 151, www.

culturalkirchner.gob.ar). Slated for inauguration on the auspiscious date of May 25, Argentina’s Independence Day, the cultural centre will be housed within the Correo Central, the former central post office designed in 1889, completed in 1928, and decommissioned in 2005. Typical of a building from Argentina’s golden age, this neoclassical pile is eclectic in appearance and vast in scale, with 110,000 square metres over which the cultural centre can sprawl. This will make it the largest venue of its kind in Latin America, with space that could accommodate two Colón Theatres and one-and-a-bit Pompidou Centres. Among the older features to have been restored and preserved are the post room, with its 5,000 boxes; the wing used by the Eva Perón Foundation in the 1940s; and the dome, which commands sweeping views of both river and city. But it’s the contemporary facilities spread across ten floors, three basements and 51 exhibition spaces that truly whet the appetite. The so-called ‘Ballena Azul’ (Blue Whale), for example, is a cetacean-shaped concrete structure sheathed in a bright metallic mesh; it will house a 2,000-seat concert venue and one of the world’s largest organs, whose nearly 4,000 pipes were built to order by a German firm. Visitors who prefer the visual arts can explore the ‘Chandelier’, a glass

4 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

construction suspended from the roof that will serve as a museum of modern art. These and other attractions still to be defined will determine whether or not the centre lives up to one of its official tag lines: ‘A great lighthouse capable of housing every expression of art and culture.’ Two ironies hover around this megaproject. The first is that Néstor Kirchner was either immune to the charms of culture or kept his susceptibility to them well hidden. This was the politician’s politician – a hard-driving habitué of smoke-filled rooms who was wheeling and dealing on the very night he collapsed. It’s as easy to imagine Néstor inside a real blue whale as inside a chamber music venue shaped like one. The second irony is that this ‘cultural lighthouse’ will cast its beam across the Argentinian city where Cristina and her late husband are least admired. The Kirchner brand of politics – populist, nationalist, raw and raucous – has never sat well with the self-conscious sophisticates of Capital Federal. But modern dance and cutting-edge multimedia? Bring it on! For many it will be a difficult circle to square, and somewhere out there the ghost of Néstor Kirchner is chuckling to himself at the awkwardness of it all. Just don’t expect him to haunt his namesake’s inauguration. – Matt Chesterton

Ballot box


s Cristina Fernández de Kirchner reaches her term limit in December 2015, the country anxiously awaits election day. Las primarias will take place on August 9 and determine each party’s candidate. The general election will be held on October 25, with a run-off scheduled for November 24 if no candidate wins the first round. One candidate from Kirchner’s party, the Frente para la Victoria (Front for Victory), is the current governor of Buenos Aires province, Daniel Scioli. Scioli has criticised Kirchner’s policies and claims he would do a better job fighting crime and inflation. Minister of the Interior and Transport, Florencio Randazzo, is the party’s other candidate, and as he is more closely aligned with the president, he would likely continue her policies if elected. The candidate for the Propuesta Republicana (Republican Proposal) party, known as PRO, is current mayor of the city of Buenos Aires, Mauricio Macri. While Macri’s centre-right, business-friendly policies are popular in the capital, he and his party have fewer supporters in the provinces. In an attempt to consolidate the conservative vote, PRO has agreed to form an alliance with the Unión Cívica Radical (Radical Civic Union), which has the support PRO lacks outside BA. The next president will inherit dwindling central bank reserves and unresolved debt issues, making the next four years a transition period for Argentina. Whatever happens over the next few months, the race to the Casa Rosada is sure to be unpredictable. – Rosie Hilder

In demand


he allure of rich red wines and succulent steaks at fractional prices never ceases to attract travellers and expats to Argentina, and with cheap housing, utilities and food, it’s a common mistake to assume everything comes at a discount. But strict importation policies mean many international products are either outrageously expensive or unavailable. Retail is one of the biggest falsefriends, with international clothing brands 45 percent more expensive than in neighbouring Chile or the US. iPhones are unavailable in Argentina, and Argentinians who splurge on fancy gadgets abroad will often bury an iPad at the bottom of their suitcase in an attempt to avoid paying heavy customs fees upon entering the country. Tampon smugglers were invaluable for women at the height of summer 2014-15 due to Argentina’s national shortage, and while normally the tampon shelves are stacked, selection is scarce and sin-applicator, so come prepared. And finally, if decadent alfajores aren’t satiating your sweet tooth, you may be happy to learn that the KitKat has finally arrived on Argentina’s shelves. – Sarah Feneck

Tango Festival and World Championships Tango performances and milongas are held at venues across the city. At the grand finale of the Tango World Championships, international professional dancers compete for the crown at Luna Park (see p134). Tickets to cheer them on are free, but expect queues to get them. Aug 12-25. Various locations (www.tangobuenosaires.gob.ar).

Dates for your diary

Torneo Inicial The kick-off to the First Division football season sees teams from all around Argentina play, and is sure to prompt passionate commentary. Aug-Dec. Various locations.


Vinos y Bodegas Vineyards from around Argentina exhibit at the country’s biggest wine fair. Grape connoisseurs can enjoy four glorious days of wine-swilling with over a thousand labels to sample, in addition to specialist seminars and demonstrations. Sep 29-Oct 31. La Rural, Avenida Santa Fe 4201 (www.expovinosybodegas.com.ar). Buenos Aires Festival Internacional de Cine Independiente Animado This animation film festival is a hit with both big and little kids. Late Sep. Various locations (www. festivales.buenosaires.gob.ar).

Feria Puro Diseño

What’s on when Whether it’s film, art, wine or fashion, there’s always an excuse for a fiesta in Buenos Aires. Here are the events to mark on your calendar up until October 2015


Feria Internacional del Libro de Buenos Aires Bibliophiles flock to Buenos Aires for literary events and book stalls of leviathan proportions. Apr 21-May 11. La Rural, Avenida Santa Fe 4201 (www.el-libro.org.ar).

Feria Puro Diseño Local designers show off their creations at this annual design fair. May 19-25. La Rural, Avenida Santa Fe 4201 (www.feriapurodiseno.com.ar).


Festival de Polo Circo There’s plenty of clowning around at this circus festival’s fun and innovative performances. May 12-17. Various locations (www. polocirco.com/festival).

ArteBA BA’s prestigious art fair is the place to see new Latin American talent. Jun 3-7. La Rural, Avenida Santa Fe 4201 (www.arteba.org).

International Museum Day Museums and galleries throughout the city open for free late into the night. May 18. Various locations (www.buenosaires.gob.ar/museos).

Ciudad Emergente This festival showcases fresh local bands, dance and poetry. Jun 17-21. Centro Cultural Recoleta, Junín 1930 (www.ciudademergente. gov.ar).

6 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015


Exposición Rural For a gaucho (cowboy) experience without leaving the city, catch parades, showjumping and cattle auctions at this annual fair. Jul 23-Aug 2. La Rural, Avenida Santa Fe 4201 (www.exposicionrural.com.ar).


Follow TOBA on Facebook (www.facebook. com/timeoutba) for info on local events.


Buenos Aires Fashion Week A biannual event featuring the new spring and summer collections from a host of local independent designers and Argentinian brands. Aug 12-15. La Rural, Avenida Santa Fe 4201 (www.bafweek.com.ar).

Filba Internacional Authors from around the world convene simultaneously in BA, Santiago de Chile and Montevideo, Uruguay for talks and workshops at this literature festival. Late Sep. Various locations (www.filba.org.ar).


Festival Buenos Aires Danza Contemporánea Offering four days of non-tango dance, this festival features national and international contemporary acts that perform in a range of exciting spaces around the city. Early Oct. Various locations (www. festivales.buenosaires.gob.ar). Feria Masticar The city’s best restaurants set up food stalls at this popular food fair. There are also talks, classes and a chance to try various wines. Mid Oct. El Dorrego, Zapiola 50 (www.feriamasticar.com.ar).

Public holidays 1 May Labour Day 25 May Anniversary of the first national government 20 Jun Flag Day 9 Jul Independence Day 17 Aug Anniversary of the death of General José de San Martín 12 Oct Day of Respect for Cultural Diversity

Caitlin McCann uncovers Buenos Aires’s unexpected delights


o explore the quirky side of Buenos Aires, all you’ll need is an appreciation for the bizarre, and quite possibly some hand sanitiser. BEYOND BEEF If you’ve eaten your way from a cow’s tongue to tail and are ready for a new kind of protein, head to El Baqueano (see p30), a restaurant specialising in meats native to Argentina. Voted one of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2014, it’s the only place in town serving alligator brochette, chinchilla in filo pastry and llama carpaccio. If you’d prefer criollo food in a kitsch atmosphere, order the bondiola (pork shoulder) with a side of populist fervour at Perón Perón (see p42). Here, a shrine to Eva Perón and paintings of power couple Cristina and Néstor Kirchner adorn the walls, and the jukebox blasts the Peronist march every hour. Most diners sing along with gusto, but if you don’t know the words, vigorous clapping will do just fine. All that food has to go somewhere, so why not aid digestion with a stroll in and around the Palacio de Aguas Corrientes (1st floor, Riobamba 750, 6319 1104)? The ornate exterior belies this building’s real purpose as a water pumping station. It also houses a free museum (Mon-Fri 9am-1pm) on the history of BA’s water sanitation centred on plumbing, engineering and yes, even toilets.

SAINTS AND SINNERS Those who don’t want to take ‘down and dirty’ quite so literally can spend an evening enjoying more carnal pleasures at sensual theatre and restaurant Te Mataré Ramírez (Gorriti 5054, 4831 9156, www.tematareramirez.com). Watch a burlesque show, sample aphrodisiac gastronomy, peruse the erotic art gallery or learn some skills at a striptease class taught by the pros. When things start to heat up, you could join the adolescents groping in the park, or head to a telo, a sex hotel that charges by the turno (from one hour to a whole night). Hotel del Bosque (Castañeda 1848, 4783 7846, www.hoteldelbosque.com.ar) offers clean rooms and is conveniently located near the infamous section of the Bosques de Palermo (see p116), where transvestite prostitutes ply their trade. Outside of the city, Los Jardines de Babilonia (see p158) offers luxury suites with full amenities, and has two-for-one turnos on Tuesdays. Any good Catholic would feel guilty after so 8 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

much hedonism, so repent for the previous night’s sins at Tierra Santa (see p118), a trippy religious theme park that feels more like a Holy Disneyland than Costanera Norte. Nothing says spiritual devotion like a laser show behind an animatronic Adam and Eve, or a giant plastic Jesus resurrecting every hour to the sound of Hallelujah, as planes from nearby airport Aeroparque (see p172) fly above. Pope Francis approves at least – he blessed the park at its opening in 2000, when he was still the Archbishop of Buenos Aires. If all the talk of sex and religion has your head spinning, unload those neuroses on the couch. Argentina is the country with the most psychologists per capita, and the area around Plaza Güemes is known as Villa Freud. Join the trend and contact Dr Graciela Marquevich (4823 3026), a bilingual psychologist who has years of experience treating patients in English. Going rates run anywhere from AR$100 to AR$1000 an hour. FAR EAST IN THE FAR SOUTH This city of immigrants is home to many ethnic groups, and the influences of the Spanish, Italian, British and Lebanese can be found across BA. There is also a sizeable Jewish community, strong enough to support the only kosher McDonald’s outside of Israel, located on the third floor of the giant shopping centre Abasto de Buenos Aires (see p107). Furthering Buenos Aires’s diversity are the city’s vibrant Asian communities. A decorative gate marks the entrance to Barrio Chino (see p117) in Belgrano, full of grocery and trinket stores and Chinese restaurants such as Hong Kong Style (see p66). Further afield in Flores is Barrio Coreano, with its strip of restaurants, supermarkets and karaoke bars, although getting into the latter can be tricky without

a member of the local community. The Korean BBQ at Una Canción Coreana (Carabobo 1549, 4631 8852) is well worth the trip, but always get a taxi to and from the area, as its surroundings have a bad reputation. While there’s no Japantown, the lovely Japanese Garden (see p116) in Palermo functions as a cultural centre where visitors can feed koi, eat sushi or buy a bonsai. KOOKY KEEPSAKES When your time in BA comes to an end, forgo the tacky Evita or tango memorabilia for a more unique reminder of your visit. If you’re willing do to some digging (and haggling), head to the weekend flea market at Parque Centenario (see p118), which is a vintage and kitsch lovers’ gold mine. For the more visually inclined, put down your selfie stick and opt for a one-of-a-kind ambrotype portrait session at Studio Fotín (Bolívar 890, 4195 3403, studiofotin.com). The charming owners explain the wet plate collodion process – which dates back to the 1850s – before you sit for your long-exposure portrait then watch it develop in the darkroom. You’ll walk away with the original glass plate, custom prints and, of course, an Instagrammable digital version. If you’re looking for a gift for a furry friend, try Bien Fifi Pet Boutique (Cabrera 5050, 4899 1924, www.bienfifi.com. ar). Bien Fifi translates to ‘well posh’ and the store stocks all you need to dress your dog or cat for its busy social schedule. Buy a leopard-print lead, pair of cat trainers or an Argentinian football shirt for your pooch. Run out of room in your suitcase? Sign up for an iPhoneography tour with Foto Ruta (www. foto-ruta.com) to learn how to artfully capture Buenos Aires’s most weird and wonderful on your smart phone. After all of that, there really is no excuse for boring your friends with dull holiday snaps.

The latest food trends like fusion cuisines, gourmet fast food and miniaturised dishes always make their way to Buenos Aires (or at least Palermo) eventually. And while plenty of locals make a go of trying every cuisine available to them, many porteños never stray outside the classic dishes they know and love best. Devote a day to following the local diet and perhaps you’ll leave the trendy cuisine behind as well

SNACK (ANY TIME YOU LIKE) Empanadas are found all over Latin America, but Argentinians in particular love the filled pastry snack. Here, empanadas are made with a wheatbased dough and can be stuffed with meat, vegetables or cheese, and then baked, fried or grilled atop a parrilla. A beef empanada fresh out of the oven is always a winner; try it and a number of other varieties at La Fachada (Aráoz 1283, 4774 6535) or El Fortín Salteño (Avenida Cabildo 4702, 4702 2413).

LUNCH (1PM) You’d be hard pressed to walk a few blocks in Buenos Aires and not come across at least one pizzería, which means pizza is an easy lunch option for many across the city. This isn’t the thin-crust fare of New York or the classic margherita of Naples, however. Argentinian pizza is a doughy, cheesy affair with its own flavours like napolitana (mozzarella topped with fresh tomatoes, garlic and herbs) and fugazzeta (layers of cheese and onion). Try the former at El Cuartito (see p26) and the latter at La Mezzetta (Avenida Álvarez Thomas 1321, 4554 7585). 10 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

BREAKFAST (9AM) For most residents of Buenos Aires, the first meal of the day is light on protein and heavy on carbs and caffeine. Many enjoy medialundas (literally ‘half moons’), the sweeter, denser equivalents of the croissant, with a café con leche. To try the meal in a traditional setting, head to classic café Las Violetas (see p22). Porteños will eat more or less the same meal of coffee and pastries later in the afternoon, when it’s known as merienda.

MERIENDA (5PM) Essential for tying you over until dinner, the merienda is a bit like afternoon tea, but usually with maté or coffee instead of tea, and toast or medialunas instead of scones. Tostadas are spread with a mild cream cheese and then a layer of jam, or dulce de leche. Just about every café has an array of merienda options, but maté is usually enjoyed at home rather than at cafés or restaurants. You can, however, try the herbal infusion with your merienda at places such as La Hormiga (Armenia 1680, 4834 6906) and Las Cabras (see p41).

DINNER (10PM) A slab of beef may not be an everyday meal for Argentinians, but it certainly is a favourite for most. The default for steak is well-done (cocido), so ask for jugoso if you like it bloody, or a punto for medium. Most parrillas will have just about every cut of beef on the menu, along with plenty of offal, but ojo de bife (rib-eye) and bife de chorizo (sirloin) are always reliable choices. The city is packed full of parrillas of varying quality; contemporary steakhouse Miranda (see p42) in Palermo is an excellent bet.

DESSERT (ANY TIME YOU LIKE) This is a country where you can have a kilo of ice-cream delivered to your door at midnight, so it goes without saying that desserts are big here – and don’t feel bad about skipping your vegetables beforehand. Helado is a favourite no matter the season, with the trio of chocolate, strawberry and dulce de leche a popular choice. Heladerías are just as prolific as pizzerías, and most offer the same flavours, but for unique options, try Jauja (Avenida Cerviño 390, 4801 8126, www.heladosjauja.com.ar) or Occo (Dorrego 1581, 4777 9302).

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 11


n The Innocents Abroad Mark Twain quips that, when in Paris, he and his fellow travellers ‘never did succeed in making those idiots understand their own language.’ Chances are, if you address a porteño (an inhabitant of Argentina’s capital) in carefully enunciated Castilian Spanish they will understand you, but they may offer a free lesson in the distinctive local dialect. While regional differences exist in Argentina, it is castellano rioplatense – from around the River Plate basin and currently spoken in Buenos Aires, Montevideo and their surrounds, as well as in Rosario, Santa Fe, Patagonia and parts of Paraguay – which is recognised as Argentinian Spanish. Porteños are obsessed with many things – football, sex, sensación térmica – and their language is just one more topic that gets them going. It’s not unusual to hear parents complain that their kids are parroting the neutral Spanish heard in cartoons, yet they themselves may use English nouns like ‘shopping’ (for shopping centre), ‘shock’ and ‘chance’ (pronounced chan-say). A meal can be ‘light’, an exclusive venue ‘top’ and you can be ‘a full’ (busy) with work or other activities. Spanish verb endings sometimes get tacked onto words– flashear is to be amazed by something or imagine something unlikely; lookearse is to doll yourself up. Inverting letters to produce terms such as telo (a ‘love hotel’, from hotel, see p158) and jermu (from mujer, woman) in so-called Vesre (from revés, reverse) is also part of the linguistic hijinks. This malleability of language is hardly surprising in a region that was a melting pot of cultures thanks to massive immigration, particularly from Europe, during the latter half of the 19th century and the first half of the 20th. Incoming linguistic elements merged with criollo Spanish and indigenous tongues, with this fusion evident today. Consider a typical Saturday night tableau: a pibe (guy) fresh from the 12 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

cancha (football pitch) is chupando una birra (drinking beer) and attempting to chamuyar (chat up, sweet-talk) a mina re-cheta (very snobby girl) in a tight suéter (jumper) at a boliche (disco). Describing such a scene involves contributions from languages like Catalan, Quechua, Italian, Spanish caló and English. Italian immigrants had the most obvious influence on the local tongue, helping mould it into the melodious Spanish spoken today. Cocoliche, a verbal Italian-Spanish hybrid, evolved among first generation workingclass Italian immigrants and then died out as their Argentinian-born offspring picked up Spanish as a native language. But enduring Italian contributions include numerous words – fiaca (idleness, laziness), afanar (to steal/ swindle), laburar (to work), to name just a few – enshrined in Lunfardo (see p13), the characteristic slang of Buenos Aires, as well as the animated hand gestures (see p13) beloved of many porteños. But let’s get to grips with some basic grammar: in spoken Rioplatense Spanish, the preterite (llamé, I called) replaces the present perfect (he llamado, I have called). The verb ir (to go) plus the preposition a (to) and a verb in the infinitive (voy a llamar, I’m going to

call) is used instead of the simple future (llamaré, I will call). The voseo or use of vos for the second person singular pronoun is a major feature of castellano rioplatense: tú bailas/comes/vives (you dance/eat/live) become vos bailás/comés/vivís; tú eres becomes vos sos. The prepositional pronoun ti also becomes vos; contigo (with you) becomes con vos. Ustedes (bailan/comen/viven) is the second person plural, for both formal and informal adresses. The voseo, with its working-class associations, was decried by academics across the Spanishspeaking Americas. Combined with Catholic and political influences in Argentina, this meant tú was the preferred form in classrooms and on the radio for a time. In playgrounds and in tango lyrics, however, the voseo survived and is notable nowadays in Argentina for its generalised use by all social classes, as well as in literature and the media. Ral Veroni, an artist and writer with a keen interest in his native language, suggests the voseo’s prevalence is due to his country-folk’s ‘natural tendency towards disobedience’. If po-faced purists wanted to ‘clean up’ the Spanish spoken around the River Plate, Argentinians were going to stick it to the establishment, linguistically speaking. Show your allegiance to the local lingo by referring to it as castellano rather than español. And, if you’ve come armed with a knowledge of Peninsular Spanish, stock up on synonyms for its catch-all verb coger to save embarrassment: in Argentina coger means to fuck. To add Argentinian authenticity to your accent, master yeísmo, the pronunciation of both ‘ll’ and ‘y’ as a single sound, like the ‘s’ in ‘measure’. Cross-dressing comedic duo Los Quintana’s performance of ‘Jessica Yolanda’ on YouTube may be helpful. All together now: Yo me llamo Jessica Yolanda, voy a la playa con malla amarilla… (My name is Jessica Yolanda, I go to the beach in a yellow swimsuit…). And if you’re still met with the same response that Twain describes, there are always hand gestures. – Sophie Parker


Lunfardo, the characteristic slang of Buenos Aires, has gone from being pooh-poohed by Borges as ‘the language of thieves’ to being studied and celebrated: in 1962, the Academia Porteña del Lunfardo was created and every September 5 is Lunfardo Day. A mash-up of native terms and borrowings from European languages (particularly Italian) that arrived in the region with 19th and 20th century immigration, Lunfardo originated in the poorest neighbourhoods of Buenos Aires and was initially associated with criminals. Today, many of the colourful colloquialisms including quilombo (mess), morfi (food) and boludo/a (idiot) are heard – or at least understood – in informal conversation among all social classes. This is mostly thanks to diffusion through tango lyrics and, more recently, those of rock and cumbia villera, which have also contributed to the evolving lexicon with fumanchero (pot-smoker), federico (policeman) and alto/a (adj. great/important/ of excellent quality), among other examples. Beyond strolling the streets of Buenos Aires, you can pick up on plenty of Lunfardo in movies, music and books. Popular local films like Nueve reinas, Relatos salvajes, Metegol and Un novio para mi mujer feature plenty of fast-talking porteños. Musicians like Daniel Melingo, Los Auténticos Decadentes and Damas Gratis often use Lunfardo in their lyrics. For Lunfardo infused literature, check out El juguete rabioso by Roberto Arlt and El origen de la tristeza by Pablo Ramos. The Nuevo Diccionario Lunfardo by José Gobello is exactly what it sounds.

¿Cómo aprendo castellano? Buenos Aires is bursting with places to learn Spanish. In the heart of Palermo, the friendly teachers at Ayres de Español (see p169) offer individual and small group classes, as well as specialist Spanish and tango classes, literature courses and a free weekly conversation group. Recoleta’s VOS (see p169) also has various programmes, including a 100% Porteño course, which merges classes on Argentinian culture with social events in the city. The University of Buenos Aires’s Laboratorio de Idiomas (see p169) has one- or two- month courses for foreigners learning Spanish, while International Training (see p169) offers free courses taught by trainee teachers. Once you’ve grasped the basics, you can show off your new lingo by swapping your English for Spanish. At Spanglish (see p169), you’ll meet five different people for ten minutes each; the idea being that later on you can chat more with the people you connected with most. You can also mingle with an international crowd at one of Mundo Lingo’s (www. mundolingo.org) events, or create a profile on Conversation Exchange (www.conversationexchange. com) to find a one-on-one language exchange partner. Another excellent way to improve your castellano is to learn a skill in a class full of locals; BA’s cultural centres have affordable courses on all sorts of pursuits. The Centro Cultural Recoleta’s (see p120) courses include photography, how to interpret art and theatrical improvisation. In the centre, the Centro Cultural Borges (see p120) offers literature, dance and cinema courses, while Almagro’s La Huella (Bulnes 892, 2066 1153, www.lahuellaespaciodearte.blogspot. com.ar) has flamenco and storytelling classes.

Che, estamos remando en dulce de leche Once your castellano is up to par, drop these colourful phrases into conversation and you’ll be mistaken for a born and bred porteño (until you commit a cultural faux pas like not passing the maté around that is) Estar al horno (con papas) Saying you’re in the oven (with chips) is a sure-fire way to indicate you’re in trouble. Add various root vegetables to the horno for emphasis. If the situation gets really sticky, shout ‘¡Estoy remando en dulce de leche!’, (I’m rowing in dulce de leche!) and hope that someone hands you a metaphorical paddle. Tener/ser mala leche Tener mala leche is to be unlucky, ser mala leche is to be someone who wishes bad luck on others and doesn’t want them to succeed. A person with both traits should be avoided at all costs. Ir a los bifes To ‘go to the beef’ does not mean that you should quickstep down to your nearest parrilla and devour half a cow, but rather that you should get to the point. To tell someone to stop beating around the bush, say, ‘¿Vamos a los bifes?’ Levantarse a alguien The equivalent of ‘to pick someone up’, levantándose a alguien will probably end in a trip to the nearest telo (sex hotel). Add extra local flavour to this phrase by replacing ‘alguien’ with Lunfardo for boy (chabón, pibe) or girl (mina, piba). Estar al pedo/en pedo/ni en pedo A number of Argentinian phrases relate to pedos, or farts. Being al pedo means you’re not doing anything, while en pedo means you’re drunk and ni en pedo means ‘not even if I was drunk!’, and is castellano’s equivalent of ‘no way!’ Tener fiaca Tener fiaca (to have laziness) is the perfect excuse to get you out of doing almost anything in Buenos Aires. Want to cycle to Tigre with me? Tengo fiaca. We’re off to tango class, do you want to come? Tengo fiaca. Want to go for a steak? Tengo fi–, err... hell yeah I do. No calientes la pava si no vas a tomar mate This phrase translates to ‘don’t put the kettle on if you’re not going to drink maté’ and basically means, stop being such a tease. Ladies, if a man says this to you, you’d be wise to put the kettle on, and then pour its boiling contents all over your (ex)bloke. Mandar fruta Mandando fruta – throwing fruit – is the favourite pastime of the chamuyero, a smooth-talking male specimen. Tell someone to stop talking bull by saying, ‘¡Dejá de mandar fruta!’, or by throwing fruit firmly back with your own mistruths. La concha de la lora Though it literally means ‘the parrot’s vagina’, this phrase is used as a general ‘fuck’ or ‘fuck you’. You may hear this from taxistas when other drivers cut them up, or bellowed from the lungs of footie fans as their team misses a penalty kick.

¿Qué te pasa boludo? Argentinians are very expressive. When words escape them, sometimes a simple gesture is all that’s needed. Illustrations by Emiliano Guevara CORTADO meaning ‘a small coffee please’. Hold finger and thumb out about 5cm apart on one hand. No words necessary, but a quick nod and a smile won’t go amiss. OJO meaning ‘to be careful’ or ‘watch out’. Place one index finger directly beneath one eye and pull skin ever so slightly downwards. Purse your lips for extra effect. QUÉ TE PASA? meaning ‘what’s your problem?’ Bunch your fingers together on either hand and shake hand up and down in front of you two to three times. Hands should be held at chest level. NI IDEA meaning ‘I haven’t got a clue’. Flick back both or one hand outwards, gently scraping your chin. Turn the corners of your mouth down at the same time.

FIERITA meaning ‘we understand each other’. Hold out your index finger and thumb in an ‘L’ shape and shake back and forth at chest level.

LA POSTA meaning ‘the absolute best’. Place the index finger and thumb of one hand together and move up and down in front of you two or three times. There are some variations on the gesture, but this is the most popular.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 13


of Argentinian Spanish IS FOR AFANAR literally means ‘to work hard’, but is usually used to mean to steal or overcharge. ¡Ese pelotudo me afanó! That idiot ripped me off!



inflation; used in Argentina very frequently.

a prefix meaning very; can be attached to any adjective for emphasis.

Con inflación, una empanada subió a quince pesos. Thanks to inflation, one empanada now costs 15 pesos. IS FOR JODA a joke, good time or party; derived from joder, which can mean to fuck. Calmate, solo te estoy jodiendo. Calm down, I’m just messing with you.

Ese lugar es cheto, cheto, re-concheto. That place is very, very snobby. IS FOR SALAME a stupid person; one of many food-related terms in Argentinian slang. Su nuevo novio es un salame. Her new boyfriend is a loser.




idiot, derived from bolas, meaning testicles; also often used to greet friends; can be used as a verb, boludear. ¿Que hacés, boludo? What are you up to, mate?

the political philosophy of Cristina and Néstor Kirchner; also represented by the letter ‘k’.

literally a trick, but usually means false, imitation or bad quality.

El kirchnerismo divide a la gente. Kirchnerism divides people.

La ropa en Once es re-trucha. The clothes in Once are very bad quality.




hey or mate; an all-purpose way of referring to someone.

work, job; derived from the Italian word for work, lavoro.

Che, tomamos unos mates? Hey, shall we have some maté?

Esta semana estamos a full en el laburo. We’re really busy at work this week.

a truncation of the English word underground; used to mean something hidden or cool.




out of place, lost.

very cool; also the name of a popular comic strip by Ricardo Liniers.

the informal you; used in Argentina and Uruguay instead of tú.

Ese pibe es muy macanudo. That guy is really cool.

No, el boludo sos vos. You’re the idiot, not me.




annoying, boring.

baby, little kid; nena can also be used to address adult women in an infantilising way.

a young person from the villa (slum); often used offensively.

Es muy desubicado ese chabón entrando al boliche con shorts. That guy going into the club in shorts is very out of place.

Qué embole es ir al correo con tanta fila. It’s a pain to go to the post office when there’s such a long queue.

Es un boliche under. It’s an underground club.

Hoy los nenes entran al cole. Today the kids start school.

A los wachiturros les encanta la cumbia.The kids from the slums love cumbia.




a condom, often an insult; forro pinchado (perforated condom) also means useless.

a person who rats others out, derived from reversing batidor; a police informant.

nickname for football club Boca Juniors; a nod to the Genoese community in La Boca.

Es un forro total. He’s a total idiot.

Esa ortiba arruinó todo. That snitch ruined everything.

¿Viste ese gol de los Xeneizes? Did you see that Boca goal?




a colloquial term for money, used to refer to peso notes or centavos.

a cigarette or a cigarette stub; a little bit of something.

yankee, American; often used to describe something in a disparaging way.

Gasté toda mi guita en birra. I spent all my money on beer.

Dónde están todos? Afuera fumando unos puchos. Where is everyone? They’re outside smoking.

Hoy en día, Palermo es como yanqui landia. These days, Palermo is like yankee land.




hysterical, insane; in Argentina, usually used to describe a romantic partner.

a mess; once used to describe African slave settlements.

to scrape by; to get away with.

¡No la estaba mirando! No seas histérica. I wasn’t looking at her! Don’t be crazy. 14 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

Por el paro del Subte, la ciudad es un quilombo. The city is a mess because of the underground strike.

No estudió nada, pero zafó el examen con un seis. He didn’t study at all, but scraped through his exam with a C.

Food & Drink

Photograph: Cocina Sunae





Food & Drink index




Bar de Cao, member of Los Notables group

Classic brews Sarah Feneck dives into Buenos Aires’s traditional café culture


real porteño café isn’t about the coffee, and its brews most certainly aren’t served to go in a styrofoam cup. While trendy spots stuffed with mismatched furniture, smoked salmon bagels and cupcakes populate Palermo, elsewhere a café culture that has changed little since the late 19th century continues to thrive. More than 70 historical cafés, known as Los Bares Notables, are scattered across Buenos Aires. An integral part of the city’s cultural heritage, these institutions are packed to the rafters all day long, and often well into the night too. If you’ve walked down Avenida de Mayo (see p114), you’ll have noticed the queue of tourists snaking out of the door of BA’s oldest and most famous café, the opulent Café Tortoni (see p19). Once an intellectual refuge for Argentina’s leading literary and artistic figures, Café Tortoni is still well worth a visit (try the hot chocolate and churros), though it’s the other Bares Notables frequented by locals that provide an insight into today’s café culture. Spots like San Telmo’s Bar Británico (see p19) have weathered war and

cultural uprisings – the iconic bar-cum-café changed its name to El Tánico during the Malvinas (Falklands) war. Over in Almagro, Las Violetas (see p22) has stood on a corner of Avenida Rivadavia for over 130 years. Former president Carlos Pelligrini was welcomed at its opening in 1884, and it’s easy to imagine that nothing has changed since. In reality, the café has experienced a turbulent history complete with revolution, squatters and a cake named after a Uruguayan jockey, but you’d never know by the look of it. The grandiose 19th century architecture – with its high ceilings, impressive marble columns and vivid stained glass – draws in snap happy tourists, while the local clientele simply position themselves by the window and get gossiping. For the full experience, order the María Cala, a tray of sweet and savoury goodies perfect for sharing at la hora del té (teatime). This ritual is, naturally, best shared with a newspaper rather than an iPad.

18 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

Further down Avenida Rivadavia is Café de los Angelitos (see p142), which opened in 1890. By day it’s a regular café, but at night, the back room comes alive with an atmospheric tango show, complete with the obligatory doses of passion. Legendary tango singer Carlos Gardel was once a regular here and Uruguayan composer José Razzano was so inspired by the café that he wrote a song about it. The name, however, is drenched in irony. Those ‘little angels’ actually refer to the younger thugs that shuffled though the café’s doors in the late 19th century and were left undisturbed by the easily bribed police. On a corner of the cobbled streets of San Telmo, lies bohemian La Poesía (see p72). In 1982, Ruben Derlís created this literary café as a place that welcomed discussion and debate on politics, music and literature. Poetry workshops such as La Poesía Lunfarda blossomed here, as did the love between tango lyricist Horacio Ferrer and his Lulu, to whom he

Chatter is encouraged, if not mandatory

wrote a poem that was later adapted into a tango waltz. Like fellow San Telmo café El Federal (see p19), the bare wooden tables, brick walls and collection of dusty bottles may lack elegance, but that’s precisely what gives these joints heaps of character. La Poesía and El Federal are two of five cafés that comprise the cultural group Los Notables (www.losnotables.com.ar), whose establishments frequently house artistic and musical events. Check the group’s Facebook page for details. As Romina Metti, director of Nashi Contenidos, PR agency for Los Notables, explains, while older male customers move between the tables of these cafés to energetically discuss horse racing, women and politics, the warm murmur of chatter is ‘encouraged, if not mandatory’. Metti also stresses how for many cafés, it’s the specific corner they sit on that makes them unique. Relatively new café and member of Los Notables, Café Margot (Avenida Boedo 857, 4957 0001, www. cafemargot.com.ar) opened its doors in Boedo in 1993. Its history, however, is directly linked with good food, a constant on this corner since 1904, when Italian immigrant Lorenzo Berisso originally constructed the building. Since then, the establishment has changed hands and reinvented itself over and over, changing from sweet to cake shop, to restaurant to pasta factory. Visitors today can admire the plaques paying homage to Café Margot’s history, including one dedicated to Don Gabino Torres and his wife who gave the café the classic recipe for Boedo’s pride and joy, the pickled turkey sandwich. This atmospheric joint is an excellent spot to relish some pickled joy and a refreshing craft beer as you watch the world go by, before heading to nearby tango hall Club de La Independencia (see p140). But these cafés are not indestructible. The closure of literary café La Confitería Richmond in 2011, which had served prominent high society figures for over 100 years, was a huge blow to BA café culture. It reminded porteños how easy it is for venerable establishments to crumble away, and in this instance be replaced by a new Nike store. As newspapers are swapped for Wi-Fi, conversations for frantic WhatsApp exchanges and more and more porteños develop a finer palate for coffee, what is it that keeps the rest of the Bares Notables in business? ‘While tourists are likely to sample several cafés once they discover the delights of one, the locals stick with what they know,’ says Metti. ‘They have their tables, their rituals and they don’t need to look at the menu to know what they want.’ So do as Los Notables recommends, and find yourself a spot to ‘waste time with dignity’. That’s certainly the best excuse for a medialuna Time Out’s ever heard.

The basics

HOW TO USE THE LISTINGS This section presents our selection of the city’s best cafés. !denotes a place we particularly recommend. NEW is for a café that has opened in the last six months or so. Dsignals free Wi-Fi for customers.

The Centre Café Tortoni Argentina’s oldest café is everything you’d expect it to be: grand and charmingly ceremonial. Since opening in 1858, this glorious place has played host to the depths of BA’s bohemia, the heights of its literati and the full political spectrum. Today, it’s teeming with camera-wielding tourists, but Café Tortoni is still a must. Beyond the wooden tables and marble floor, a salon hosts tango shows every evening at 8.30pm and 10.30pm (AR$240). Avenida de Mayo 829, entre Piedras y Tacuarí (4342 4328/www.cafetortoni. com.ar). Subte A, Piedras/bus 2, 7, 8, 9, 10, 17, 64, 86, 111, 126, 129 146. Open 8am-midnight daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4. D Grand Café Adding a splash of colour and panache to the Plaza San Martín area, this New York-style café, opened by the owners of Gran Bar Danzón (see p38), is primarily aimed at office workers. A pot of French press coffee and a dulce de leche éclair is just one of the many merienda (tea) options, while on the savoury side, the chalkboard menu promises falafel veggie burgers, smoked salmon sandwiches and fresh salads for lunch. Basavilbaso 1340, entre Juncal y Avenida del Libertador (4893 9333/ www.grandcafe.com.ar). Subte C, Retiro/bus 10, 17, 28, 92, 93, 100, 101. Open 8am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-4pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6. D


As our café feature (see left) suggests, BA’s traditional café scene isn’t about to change anytime soon. While there’s nothing quite like a quintissential café con leche y medialuna surrounded by historic plaques and local customers who look like they haven’t moved in several decades, a host of cafés, mainly in Palermo, are offering almost the opposite experience. The coffee experts at Full City Coffee House (see p20), Birkin Coffee Bar (see p20) and the recently rennovated Lattente (see p20) are already firm favourites for Palermo’s discerning caffeine addicts, and new addition to the scene, LAB Tostadores de Café (see p20), is set to become the city’s coolest place for a brew. Just down the road, other new joints are causing a stir. Café-cumalmacén Il Posto Mercato (see p22) is spicing up the sandwich and picada scene and Meme (see p22) is bringing tasty soups and rolls to an excited crowd of already loyal regulars.

NEW Pani Pani’s decadent delights are poised for a citywide takeover. The café chain has opened its latest location on a beautiful corner of the Galerías Pacífico shopping centre (see p93). The café is filled with cushioned banquets, velvet curtains and has a fully-stocked bar, but the stars of the show are still Pani’s signature cakes, brownies and just about every other sweet under the sun. Snag a seat up against the windows and dig into a slice of cheesecake studded with Oreos and dulce de leche. In case it wasn’t obvious already, minimalism is not in Pani’s vocabulary. Viamonte 501, y San Martín (4516 0665/www.pani.com.ar). Subte B, Florida/bus 20, 45, 152. Open 9am-10pm Sun-Thu; 9am-11pm Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C5. D Other locations Vicente López 2065, Recoleta (4804 3210); Nicaragua 6044, Palermo (4772 6420).

San Telmo Bar Británico Bar Británico has sat proudly on an iconic San Telmo corner since time immemorial – that is, for pedants, since 1928. Named after the British railway workers who frequented the bar in its early days, it briefly changed its name to El Tánico during the Malvinas (Falklands) war. Days blur into nights at this BA café-bar, where you can nurse a coffee or beer for as long as you like, while you and the taxi drivers watch the world go by through huge picture windows. A change of ownership and a refurbishment had the whole barrio up in arms a few years back, and though it’s not exactly as it once was – the old-school, Spanish Civil War waiterowners are gone, and the toilets are now fit for use – this place still, without exaggeration, encapsulates the very essence of BA café culture. Brasil 399, y Defensa (4361 2107). Bus 22, 24, 29, 61. Open 6ammidnight daily. No credit cards. Map A4. Bar Plaza Dorrego With outdoor seating in atmospheric Plaza Dorrego, this century-old watering hole perfectly embodies the tanguero spirit of San Telmo. Inside, a pale lemon hue is cast over the dusty bottles and etched walls, while tango crackles out over black-and-white images of the one and only Carlos Gardel. It’s an ideal spot to drain a frosty chopp (a small glass of draught beer) while dismembering handfuls of complimentary monkey nuts. Defensa 1098, y Humberto 1° (4361 0141). Bus 9, 195. Open 8am-11.30pm Mon-Thu; 8am-3.30am Fri-Sun. No credit cards. Map B4. D !El Federal Having celebrated its 150th year in business in 2014, El Federal is one of BA’s most historic bars, with magnificent cash registers, faded lamps and a collection of old advertising posters. There’s a standard set of coffees, beers and spirits and a long list of snacks and Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 19


Winter warmers Buenos Aires is far from the tropical South American paradise some tourists imagine it to be. If the chilly winter days are getting you down, spend the afternoon at one of these cosy cafés. Libros del Pasaje There’s nothing quite like curling up with a book on a cold day. Peruse the shelves at this bookshop/café for reading material to enjoy with a café con leche on the comfy sofa. See p100. Juan Pablo Repetto The beautiful ceramics at this sweet, homely café are hand-painted onsite. Order a submarino – an Argentinian classic of hot milk with a dunk-it-yourself chocolate bar – to enjoy as you sit back and admire the charming decor. Niceto Vega 4977 (4776 3292/www. juanpablorepetto.com). Anima Cakes What better way to beat the winter blues than with tea and cake? Wash down one of Anima’s sweet treats with a cup of Tealosophy tea; varieties include Pear Spice, Monsoon Wedding, Cherry Blossom and Red Earl Grey. Peña 2665 (4805 8005). Meme Soup doesn’t have a good reputation in Argentina; even the nation’s favourite comic strip character Mafalda abhors the stuff. But Meme is here to change all that, and its fresh, healthy soups are just the thing to warm you up. See p22. Ceffyl Casa de Té Galés This Welsh café boasts four tearooms, each replete with an air of refined, traditional sophistication. Wile away the afternoon sipping from bone china teacups and succumb to the temptation of freshly baked scones, cakes or a hearty slice of apple crumble. Humboldt 2028 (4774 0190/www.ceffyl. com.ar). sandwiches – the lomo completo beef sandwich comes with all, and we mean all, the trimmings. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch an ad hoc performance of tango standards; if you’re really lucky, it’ll be by Ana, one of the finest singers in San Telmo, who sings bar to bar, hat in hand. Carlos Calvo 599, y Perú (4300 4313/ www.barelfederal.com.ar). Bus 9, 10, 17, 24, 29, 86, 93, 126. Open 10am-midnight Mon-Sat. No credit cards. Map B4. D Mercadito Latino This bright café is in a prime people watching spot right opposite San Telmo’s market. Here you’ll find flavoursome food and drink influenced by all things Latin. Start the day with a feast in the form of the huevos rancheros: a crunchy tortilla topped with two fried eggs, chips, a fresh avocado salad and butter beans mixed with chorizo and bacon. Stop in later for the daily lunch special (AR$95), or a taste of the tropics in the form of fresh fruit

juices and arepas. With all that and more on the menu, Time Out is thankful this spot is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks. Carlos Calvo 488, y Bolívar (2004 1056). Subte C, Independencia/bus 24, 29, 93, 126, 152. Open 10ammidnight Tue-Sun. No credit cards. Map B4. D

Recoleta La Biela A stone’s throw from Recoleta Cemetery, the terrace of this historic, Parisian-style café is a good bet for people-watching. It’s named after the connecting rod in car engines, testimony to the fact that famous motor racing drivers hung out here in the 1950s, as are the framed pictures of race cars still hanging on the walls. Nowadays, the massive rubber tree outside shelters a terrace packed to the brim with tourists and Recoleta’s most monied residents. Avenida Quintana 596, y Ortiz (4804 0449/www.labiela.com). Bus 10, 17, 59, 60, 101, 108, 110, 124. Open 7am-2am Mon-Sat; 8am-2am Sun. Credit AmEx, V. Map E5. D Be Juice This bright and stylish Recoleta café has a range of revitalising juices, smoothies and flavoured waters. Sit at the yellow communal table and flip through art and architecture magazines or use the solar-powered charger to power up your phone while sipping a Super Vitamin juice and enjoying a freshly made salmon, avocado and rocket sandwich. After all that healthy goodness, there’s room to indulge in a slice of decadent passionfruit cheesecake or beetroot and chocolate cake. Barrientos 1586, y Pacheco de Melo (4806 7712/www.bejuice.com.ar). Bus 10, 110. Open 9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat. No credit cards. Map E5. D


10am-9pm Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map G4. D

La Alacena A little off the main tourist route of Palermo, La Alacena is stylish and homely. On the menu, you’ll find an array of light lunches with twists on the traditional. Highlights include the courgette, broccoli, goat’s cheese and almond toasted sandwich, and Saturday’s brunch option of organic poached egg with potato gnocchi, spinach, smoked panceta, pecorino cheese and mint. Finish off a meal with a dark chocolate and sea salt mousse straight out of the oven, and you may want to consider taking a piece of La Alacena home in the form of the tasteful ceramic crockery or delightful home-made jams. Gascón 1401, y Honduras (4867 2549). Bus 36, 39, 106, 110, 111, 140, 151, 168. Open 9am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat; 10am-5pm Sun. No credit cards. Map F3. D

!Full City Coffee House Buenos Aires isn’t exactly known for its quality service or coffee. Full City Coffee House filled that void and became the caffeine addict’s favourite locale when it opened in Chacarita, and fans anxiously awaited its re-opening in Palermo Soho in 2013. The English-Colombian owners are bona fide coffee connoisseurs, importing full-bodied arabica beans from Colombia and roasting them in Buenos Aires. Coffee is the star here, but fresh juices made from exotic Colombian fruits, arepas, paninis and salads are equally delicious. Thames 1535, y Pasaje Soria (4833 6774/www.fullcitycoffeeco.com). Bus 34, 39, 151, 168. Open 10am-8pm Tue-Fri; 10.30am-8pm Sat; 11am-6pm Sun. Credit MC, V. Map G2. D

Bartola Every weekend Bartola’s inviting pink and blue patio chairs are filled to the brim with chatty locals and foreigners. The colourful exterior may be responsible for attracting the crowds, but the friendly staff, jugs of the best lemonade in town and all-round buena onda keep them coming back time and time again. Highlights include juicy hamburgers with caramelised onions or pillow-soft ciabatta sandwiches stuffed with grilled chicken, rocket, guacamole and cream cheese. Lighter appetites will be satisfied by a dazzling array of fresh salads. If this spot is full, try the other member of the Bartola family across the street (though these days both are likely to have a queue snaking out the door). Gurruchaga 1795, y Costa Rica (4833 6522). Bus 39, 41, 67, 93, 152. Open 9.30am-9pm Mon-Wed, Sun; 9.30am2am Thu-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D Other location Gurruchaga 1806, Palermo (4831 3079).

Florencio Among the exclusive buildings on an almost !Birkin Coffee Bar hidden Recoleta street BA café culture is is a tiny patisserie with Sweet or savoury? something of a superlative pastries and There are two types of paradox: there are cakes. Food lovers will croissant in BA. Medicharming cafés on travel for miles to sink alunas de manteca are every street corner, two their teeth into a buttery and sweet, while meals a day are berry-topped medialunas de grasa are dedicated to coffee and cheesecake or savoury treats. sweet treats (breakfast caramelised pear tart made and merienda to the by occasional TV celebrity chef uninitiated) and yet, the coffee is María Laura D’Aloisio. If you terrible. Birkin Coffee Bar is an favour something savoury, try a exception, with the richest, strongest sandwich in home-made ciabatta or cappuccino in town. Oh, and there are reserve a spot for dinner on also fresh pastries, old school marble Wednesday and Friday evenings. countertops, zigzag tiled floors, cushy Adventurous bakers can try recreating banquet seats, decadent brunch options Florencio’s divine desserts at home, as and a rack of fashion glossies to flip D’Aloisio also shares recipes on her through while you merendar. There’s a Facebook page. small selection of wine and aperitifs for Francisco de Vittoria 2363, entre the happy hour crowd, an all-round cool Guido y Agote (4807 6477). Bus 10, vibe and good food, but it’s all about the 17, 37, 41, 60, 102, 110. Open coffee here. 9am-8pm Mon, Tue, Thu, Sat; República Árabe Siria 3061, y Cabello 9am-midnight Wed, Fri. No credit (4843 7470). Bus 10, 57, 60, 93, 160, cards. Map E5. 188. Open 9am-9pm Tue-Fri;

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In Bocca al Luppo The name, the coffee, the menu and the radio are all Italian at this unpretentious café. Inside, it’s all psychedelic sofas, quaint teacupshaped lights, cream walls and that comforting hum of an espresso machine at work. But it’s the interior patio that really makes this little spot special, with its exposed brick walls and sunshine – a perfect oasis in the middle of Palermo Hollywood. The lasagne and panini make for a delightfully filling lunch, while the custard-filled cornetti (Italian croissants) accompanied by Illy coffee are the perfect morning pick-me-up. Bonpland 1965, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (4774 3692). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111. Open 9am-11pm Tue-Fri; 9.30am-9pm Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D

NEW LAB Tostadores de Café This ultra-modern café is an asset to Palermo’s buzzing coffee scene. With an extensive collection of freshly roasted beans and five different brewing methods to choose from, LAB ensures coffee connoisseurs a perfect brew every time. Treat yourself to a freshly baked pastry to accompany an espresso; Time Out couldn’t resist the scrumptious white chocolate and raspberry cookie. To learn the tricks of the trade, opt for a Barista Amateur Class (AR$400), or for those with more advanced skills, the Experiencia Espresso Class (AR$900). Humboldt 1542, entre Gorriti y Cabrera (4843 1790/www.labcafe.com. ar). Bus 34, 108, 111, 168. Open 8am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, V. Map H2. D Lattente Fresh from its recent makeover, this bright little café still serves its smooth-as-Fonzie Colombian roast, whipped up by Argentina’s champion barista Daniel Cifuentes. Lattente is one of the few places in the city where you can get a top-class (and takeaway) cappuccino, macchiato, mocha, flat white and Americano. Along with arty doodles on top of your cuppa Joe,

Magendie With a country farmhouse feel, Magendie is a sweet spot for a relaxing lunch. Pretty crockery adorns the walls and a blackboard describes Magendie’s health food philosophy, which aims to offer nutritionally balanced meals. The sandwiches are hearty, wholesome affairs, and come on freshly homemade bread with a side of chunky papas rústicas. Save some room for the tangy orange flan with dulce de leche and consider browsing the almacén for health food items, a bottle of vino or home products like cute aprons and recipe books. Honduras 5900, y Ravignani (4772 0022). Bus 39, 57. Open 9am-8pm Mon, Wed-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. D Mark’s Deli & Coffee House This long-time Palermo favourite occupies one of the best corners in the neighbourhood – and shows no sign of giving it up. Whether you come for the rich slices of cake, ice-cold lemonade,

or the corner view of Palermo’s hustle and bustle, Mark’s is the perfect place to loiter away an afternoon. For a heartier lunch, sink your teeth into a large smoked salmon sandwich, or munch on giant chocolate-chip cookies and moist budines while watching the massed ranks of MacBook-owning foreigners and fashion identicats – mostly young, female and leaning towards the uppermost end of the beauty spectrum. El Salvador 4701, y Armenia (4832 6244/www.markspalermo.com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, 106, 140. Open 8.30am-9.30pm Mon-Sat; 10.30am-9pm Sun. No credit cards. Map G3. D Ninina Bakery This stunning Palermo bakery uses minimalist, New York-style decor to create a delightful spot for sipping on excellent coffee or unusual juices in healthy combos like carrot, orange and ginger. Building on the popularity of main dishes like the to-die-for vegetarian burger, which comes with about 50 different topping options, Ninina Bakery is now open for dinner. Gorriti 4738, entre Malabia y Armenia (4832 0070/www.ninina.com). Bus 15, 39, 55, 57, 140, 151, 168. Open 8am-midnight Mon-Thu; 8am-1am Fri; 9am-1am Sat; 9am-midnight Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Oui Oui This gorgeous French-style café is one of the nicest places Time Out knows for breakfast, lunch, tea or any of the

other possible daytime repasts. The main draw is undoubtedly brunch, which thanks to its generous portions and a well-priced menu, sees queues out the door and plates of eggs Benedict, French toast and waffles flying out to every table. Croissants, baguettes, salads and pain au chocolat are all listed on the blackboards that preside over the jolly, pastel-painted interior; and despite the cake stands and floral prints, there’s nothing overly twee about this place. Nicaragua 6068, entre Arévalo y Dorrego (4778 9614/www.ouioui.com. ar). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 39, 41, 57. Open 8am-8pm Tue-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map H3. D Other location Nicaragua 6099, Palermo (4776 4442). Pain et Vin Stocking boutique Argentinian vintages from wineries such as Altos Las Hormigas, Bodega del Desierto and Domaine Bousquet, Pain et Vin offers up the perfect drinking scenario: relax with a bottle around the communal table while tucking into a still-warm loaf baked from scratch. The varieties of bread – choose from farmhouse, olive, nut and rye – are all baked in a wood-burning oven that the husband-and-wife team built. Drop by for a lunchtime BLT sandwich on rustic country bread or pop in for an ‘it’s uncorking time’ splash of the sacred grape with some bread and cheese on the patio.

Gorriti 5132, y Thames (4832 5654). Bus 39, 108, 140. Open 9am-9pm Tue-Sat; 10am-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Le Pain Quotidien The rustic chic decor and communal table concept of Le Pain Quotidien may be nothing new to the international traveller, but the Belgian chain is a welcome addition to Palermo’s merienda scene. Your bread basket will still come with dulce de leche, but you’ll find salmon tartines and flaky croissants in favour of tostadas and medialunas. You can choose an individual table over communal, but the weary single traveller may appreciate the company of fellow diners. In any case, be sure to grab a fresh baguette or pistachio-pear madeleine on the way out. Armenia 1641, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4831 5709/www. lepainquotidien.com.ar). Bus 36, 39, 140. Open 9am-9pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D Other locations Jeronimo Salguero 3075, Palermo (4807 2098); Sucre 2151, Belgrano (4788 4738); Posadas 1402, Recoleta (4811 6391). Voltaire This cosy country kitchen, located on the corner of its pretty namesake street, serves up simple, tasty and reasonably priced nosh for breakfast and lunch. The fresh pumpkin salad with poached egg and sun-dried tomatoes might just be one of the best

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 21


Cifuentes has been known to do spiked versions with Baileys, Malibu and sambuca. While Lattente doesn’t serve food at the weekends, keep your eyes peeled for vendors lurking outside selling freshly made cannoli and New York-style bagels. Thames 1891, entre Nicaragua y Costa Rica (4833 1676/www.cafelattente. com). Bus 34, 39, 55. Open 9am-8pm Mon-Sat; 10am-8pm Sun. No credit cards. Map G3.


Serrano 789, y Aguirre, Villa Crespo (4774 2563/www.malvonba.com.ar). Bus 19, 34, 55, 65, 71, 76, 90, 106, 109, 110, 127, 141, 166. Open 9am-1am daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G1. D Other location Lafinur 3275, Palermo (4807 1458). Las Violetas Opened in 1884, used as a secret meeting place for political revolutionaries in the ’80s, abandoned by its owner and taken over by squatters in the ’90s, only to be reclaimed by the neighbourhood and completely revitalised just before the 2001 crisis – well, needless to say Las Violetas has an interesting history, and it’s showing no signs of stopping. Soaring ceilings, exquisite stainedglass windows and pristine whitejacketed waiters combine to make this an extra-special café spot. Avenida Rivadavia 3899, y Medrano, Almagro (4958 7387/www.lasvioletas. com). Subte A, Castro Barros/bus 5, 86, 104, 105, 128, 132. Open 6am-1am daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E1. D

New in town Meme

Meme fills a gap in the Buenos Aires lunch scene with its tantalising array of globally inspired soups and rolls, all of which are made to order and accompanied by little bowls of dressing, sauce or spice. Time Out particularly enjoyed the leche de tigre, a delightfully tangy ceviche soup, the gazpacho topped with shavings of parma ham and the crispy Vietnamese rolls, which are stuffed full of juicy shredded pork, mushrooms, rice noodles and crab paste. Can’t decide what to try? Order a desgustación sopaholic of three soups of your choice with a home-made lemonade or iced tea. With all of that for under AR$100, it’s no wonder the locals keep coming back for more. Gorriti 5881, y Ravignani (4770 9234). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168. Open 9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat. Credit V. Map H2. D

light meals available in the city. There’s a cute café on every corner of this barrio, but fortunately Voltaire’s food and drink is as charming as the location. For, as Voltaire himself once wrote, ‘Nothing would be more tiresome than eating and drinking if God had not made them a pleasure as well as a necessity.’ Carranza 1946, y Voltaire (4777 4132). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108. Open 9am-6pm Tue; 9am-7pm Wed-Sun. No credit cards. Map H3. D NEW Il Posto Mercato This sandwich joint, almacén and butchers is a one-stop shop for all your lunch and picada needs. The deli sources the highest quality cheeses and cured meats the city has to offer, and what the selection of sandwiches lacks in options, it makes up for in quality. Highlights include the red pepper baguette, which is layered with mortadella (a pork-based Italian sausage) and cheese. Whether you order your food to take away or enjoy it on the patio with a glass of wine, if you live nearby, you may soon find yourself visiting Il Posto regularly. Soler 5502, y Humboldt (2067 8882/ www.ilpostomercato.com). Bus 34, 39, 57, 93, 95, 108. Open 11am-9pm Mon-Wed; 11am-10pm Thu-Sat. Credit MC, V. Map H3. D

Almagro and Villa Crespo

Café Crespin On any given day, this sign of the trendification (or Palermification) of Villa Crespo is packed with a tribe of twenty- to thirtysomethings clicking away on MacBooks and young parents out for a leisurely brunch with the baby. Maybe they come for the diner decor and the free Wi-Fi, but Time Out’s betting the menu has something to do with it. The intriguing mash-up of greasy-spoon hangover food is mixed with a healthy selection of breakfasts, salads and sandwiches. Crespin’s crowning accomplishment is the American bakery, highlights are the New York-style cheesecake and cinnamon rolls. Fans of Café Crespin should try sister café Don (Vera 601). Vera 699, y Acevedo, Villa Crespo (4855 3771/www.cafecrespin.com.ar). Sube B, Malabia/bus 15, 19, 24, 106, 109. Open 8am-8pm Tue-Fri; 9am-8pm Sat; noon-7pm Sun. Credit MC, V. Map G3. D !La Crespo Despite boasting the world’s seventh largest Jewish population, Argentina lacks solid options for homesick Jewish-cuisine aficionados (the Kosher

22 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

McDonald’s in Abasto Shopping Centre doesn’t quite cut it). Luckily, there’s hope in this hidden Villa Crespo gem of a café. One of the few places in the city to offer a decent bagel, La Crespo serves up house specialities like knishes (dumplings), strudel and potato latkes. The hot pastrami sandwich is a must: stacked high with 200g of thin pastrami slices, served with pickled cucumbers, caramelised onions and Dijon mustard – all on multigrain bread. Thames 612, y Vera, Villa Crespo (4856 9770/www.lacrespo.com). Bus 19, 34, 55, 65, 71, 76, 109, 127, 166. Open 11.30am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am-6pm Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map G1. D !Malvón This café-cum-bakery’s eclectic menu covers both the sweet and savoury, with nutella-filled French toast for the former and New York-inspired pastrami sandwiches and bagels for the latter. Malvón also has a second location in the gorgeous Palermo Botánico neighbourhood, meaning you’ll be able to walk off a weekend brunch with a stroll through the leafy streets. Both cafés are open late, so what started as a merienda can easily turn into dinner and drinks till the small hours.

!Yeite Bringing a breath of fresh air to a slightly downtrodden area of Villa Crespo, stylish and modern Yeite is the creation of pastry specialist Pamela Villar and has a star-studded list of collaborators – designer Jessica Trosman, whose shop JT (see p108) is next door, and top chef Fernando Trocca of Sucre (see p66) to name but two. Yeite’s menu changes fortnightly and focuses on fresh, seasonal ingredients combined in unusual and exciting ways. Whatever you choose from the pick-and-mix menu, be sure to save some space for Villar’s stunning desserts. Past creations include an exquisitely tangy orange tart and melt-in-your-mouth pistachio, lemon and mascarpone profiteroles. The secret is out on this charming café; be prepared to queue during the weekend brunch rush. Humboldt 293, y Murillo (4855 6777). Subte B, Dorrego/bus 19, 34, 42, 55, 65, 71, 76, 93, 109, 111, 166, 176. Open 9am-7pm Tue-Sun. No credit cards. Map H1. D

Belgrano Nolita While esconsed at a corner table enjoying a cup of Illy coffee and a freshly baked blueberry muffin, imagine yourself teleported from the sleepy streets north of Buenos Aires’s Barrio Chino, to happening NYC district North of Little Italy – this cosy café’s namesake. With a variety of deli-style sandwiches and a trendy redbrick and recycled thrift-wood interior, Nolita and all its elements are true to its New York theme. Franklin D Roosevelt 1806, y 11 de Septiembre (4786 8690/www. nolitabakery.com). Bus 15, 29, 42, 107, 114, 130. Open noon-8pm daily. No credit cards. D


Bernata’s elegant tapas menu helped pave the way for the small plate trend

A small revolution The small plate trend is the next big thing in BA, writes Emily Jensen


he most emblematic of Argentinian meals is surely the asado. A feast of super-sized proportions consisting of beef, bread and perhaps the occasional vegetable, it’s the kind of meal where that one extra bite of bife de chorizo can easily tip you over from a pleasant sense of fullness to a food-induced coma. That’s as it should be, and is partly why the asado’s popularity endures every Sunday afternoon. But dining on monster-sized servings of beef is not the only style of eating to be found in Argentina. More and more Buenos Aires restaurants are turning away from enormous main courses to menus of smaller portions that let diners sample a multitude of dishes. The small plate trend has already made its mark in major cities like London, New York and San Francisco, but is only now finding its footing in the Argentinian capital. With savvy diners the world over sharing, tweeting and Instagramming their every bite, it’s no wonder chefs want to give them as many dishes to capture as possible.

Small dishes for sharing sounds like an oxymoron, but the advantage to offering reduced portions is that it allows diners to sample a more eclectic range of food than at traditional eateries. Such is the case at Blanch (see p50), which relocated from Las Cañitas to Palermo in 2014. Bored of the traditional appetiser, entrée and dessert format, owners Diego ‘Tatu’ Rizzi and Alejandro Naon chose instead to offer diners a medley of Thai, Southeast Asian and Indian-inspired plates in portions of tapas or raciones. According to Naon, the two grew up in homes where the dining table was always covered with numerous dishes, which ‘transformed dinner into an excuse to chat and connect, with lots of people, lots of dishes and lots of conversation.’ The drinks at Blanch are also for sharing. Skip the traditional cocktail and order one of the jarritos of aperitif concoctions. Gran Dabbang (see p52), which also arrived on the Palermo scene in 2014, follows a similar style with an ever-changing menu of Mediterranean, Indian and Middle Eastern fare. Dishes are labelled as

either platitos or medianos and fortunately this is the kind of restaurant where the prices match the portions, meaning large groups can easily feast on a variety of plates for less than AR$200 a head. A host of newly opened eateries and bars is ensuring the small plate trend will take hold in Buenos Aires. Palermo’s Comité (see p50) is a restaurant, pastelería, wine shop and café all rolled into one, but the stand out is its tick-the-box tapas menu. New bars Shout (see p72) and Tesla (see p74) specialise in a tasty selection of appetisers and tapas for sharing. A fashionable crowd makes its way to Brac (Humboldt 1864, 4775 3066, www. brac.com.ar), which serves finger food in a chic as can be Scandinavian-inspired setting. Brac’s menu lets the elements do the talking; agua (water) encompasses all things seafood, tierra (earth) is the domain of vegetables and fuego (fire) offers grilled meat-based plates. Prices are steep relative to the dainty portion sizes, but then again part of the bill is footing the Nordic-chic decor.

On the brunch circuit, La Alacena (see p20) rejects the American-style brunch of stick-to-your-ribs portions of eggs, meat and carbohydrates. Its menu instead offers picoteo (snacks) of home-made pickles and Greek olives, antipasti options including grilled tomatoes with feta cheese, and adicionales (side dishes) like fried yucca with a drizzle of lemon. The small portions are best sampled and shared among a group, but stick to the egg dishes made with huevos orgánicos if you want a satisfying meal for one. Since opening in 2014, Yeite (see p22), has been attracting porteños to a forgotten corner of Villa Crespo in droves. Chef Pamela Villar and her sister Josefina opened Yeite in collaboration with designer Jessica Trosman, whose stylish shop JT (see p108) is connected to the café. The menu changes fortnightly, and though there are heartier options, Josefina says side dishes and salads are served in small portions ‘so that each person can build their own plate and try various items.’ The small plate trend may be modern in its current interpretation, but the concept of a selection of small portions to be shared has a much more traditionalist relative in the typical Argentinian picada. Found across the city at fiambrerías, bars and cafés, the picada gets its name from the verb picar, which means ‘to snack.’ A local picada typically consists of a variety of cold cuts, cheeses, pâtés, olives and bread, but creative interpretations can be found at spots like Verne Club (see p80), which decorates its picadas with the likes of fried camembert, houmous and smoked salmon. Sometimes though, tradition wins out. Time Out loves the build your own picada menu at Cervecería Nacional (see p76), which offers an affordable selection of traditional cazuelas of sausages, olives and cheeses, all of which are perfectly complimented by a pint (or two) of artisanal beer. Though its name is Spanish, the Argentinian picada has more in common with the Italian antipasti than Spanish tapas – and indeed many porteños enjoy the meal with an Italian aperitif like Cinzano or Campari. If a taste of traditional tapas españolas is what you’re after, head to La Esperanza de los Ascurra (see p62). A huge menu includes the traditional Spanish tortilla, papas bravas and salmon in a saffron sauce. Order each dish either as a tapa, media ración, or ración to suit your hunger level. For a more modern interpretation of tapas, try chic bar Bernata (see p76), which has been serving up tapas on a Palermo corner long before the small plate trend came to BA. And if you find the small plate trend too dainty for your tastes, just wait until the Sunday afternoon asado rolls around, when you’ll be able to feast on a bife de chorizo the size of your head.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 23


The essentials

Both well-known chefs and culinary newcomers recently have taken it upon themselves to liven up the Buenos Aires dining scene. Gastón Acurio, one of Peru’s most illustrious chefs, has opened a branch of his award-winning La Mar (see p40) in Buenos Aires, while Matías Kyriazis of Paraje Arévalo (see p46) has ventured into the realm of puertas cerradas with Barraco (see p48). Pedro Peña isn’t exactly a culinary newbie, but the Colombian chef has certainly raised his profile by opening the modern parrilla La Carnicería (see p42). The chefs at Butchers (see p50), on the other hand, have had a huge success on their first foray into the world of restaurants thanks to their creative take on simple sandwiches and salads. If the new restaurant arrivals of 2015 prove anything though, it’s that Palermo shows no signs of being unseated as the culinary epicentre of Buenos Aires. It’s with good reason that innovative newcomers like Mishiguene (see p56) and Comité (see p50) chose the barrio as their home, but there are other areas in the city with a concentration of gourmet delights (see p47, Top dining streets). Should you get tired of all the fancy Palermo cuisine, forget the modern fare and stick to the classics. Learn to follow the local diet with our feature on how to eat like a porteño (see p10).

HOW TO USE THE LISTINGS This section brings together our pick of the city’s restaurants. Prices are represented by peso signs: $ indicates a rough range of under AR$100 for main courses, although some restaurants have special dishes on their menus that can be much more expensive; $$ is AR$100-$150; $$$ is AR$151-$200; and $$$$ indicates AR$200 and above. Prices given here do not include extras such as wine, starters, dessert or coffees. ! is for restaurants we particularly recommend. NEW signals a restaurant that has opened in the last six months or so. A marks a restaurant whose bar is worth a visit on its own, whether or not you stay for dinner. ! marks our top spots for bargain dining – they’re not always the cheapest places, but they nevertheless represent good value for money. V is for restaurants with good options for vegetarians, or which are entirely veggie.

The Centre


Club del Progreso Dating from 1852, this hidden treasure in the heart of Congreso features a menu based on traditional dishes that have been reinvented for modern times and are served in an unassuming paradise. In fine weather, relaxing in

El Mercado (see p36)

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the lovely garden is an excellent option. Try the suckling pig cooked in the outdoor adobe oven, or opt for the succulent salmon. Sarmiento 1334, entre Talcahuano y Uruguay, Congreso (4372 3350/ www.restorandelprogreso.com.ar). Subte B, Uruguay/bus 5, 12, 24, 60, 100, 111, 115, 129, 140, 146, 150, 151, 168, 180. Open noon-4pm, 8pmmidnight Mon-Wed; noon-4pm, 8pm-1am Thu-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$130. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. A ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

!Dadá Dadá is one of the hottest spots in the city and is also one of the most frequently recommended places to chow down. Set in a small and cheerful space, the owner Paolo and his family weave their magic, managing to charm and serve clients with a menu that is as imaginative as the lighting and furnishings that adorn the restaurant. The menu often changes but the classics remain. If you are looking for a light bite, the delicious houmous and guacamole dips are fabulous finger foods, or if you’re feeling a little bit more peckish, the lomo Dadá or the salmon with polenta never fail. Chilled lagers, good cocktails and a fine boutique wine list complete a very pretty picture. San Martín 941, entre Marcelo T de Alvear y Paraguay, Microcentro (4314 4787). Subte C, San Martín/bus 5, 6,

7, 9, 20, 33, 62, 93, 152, 195. Open noon-3am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$165. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6. A !Moreneta de Montserrat Porteña Luciana Conte and Italian Sebastián Raggiante brought their culinary passion to BA in 2010, after augmenting the Michelin status of several European restaurants. Befitting of the business centred neighbourhood, the lunch hour at Moreneta is filled with suits, but the decor and ambience are perennially bright and inviting. As you’d expect from alumni of El Bulli’s Ferran Adrià, everything arrives impeccably presented. The menu changes weekly, but expect to see earthy, elegant plates like leek ravioli and home-made pizza topped with sun-dried tomatoes and rocket. Moreno 477, entre Bolívar y Defensa, Monserrat (4331 1428/www.moreneta. com.ar). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo/bus 10, 93, 152. Open 9am-7pm Mon-Fri. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map B5. Tomo I Those hankering after the good ol’ days, when eating out was more about quality than keeping up with trends, need to pay a visit to the ever-reliable Tomo I. This elegant restaurant within downtown’s Hotel Panamericano serves up what might just be the best tasting menu in the city; the nine courses

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 25



Hierbabuena (see p32)

change constantly, but could just as easily include ostrich ravioli as beef tenderloin. A soft warm glow, spotlessly white tables and jazz tunes make this a romantic place for a tête-à-tête, while the restaurant’s proximity to the Teatro Colón means you’ll likely see opera singers in their glad rags swanning in for a postperformance feast. Red wines served in crystal decanters by suited staff add a glamorous touch to a night out; reservations and sharp dress are recommended, if not essential. Hotel Panamericano, Carlos Pellegrini 521, y Tucumán, Microcentro (4326 6695/www.tomo1.com.ar). Subte B, Carlos Pellegrini/bus 5, 6, 9, 10. Open noon-3pm Mon-Fri; 7.30pm-12.30am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$500. Tasting menu AR$1000. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. ITALIAN

Chiuso You may not have high hopes for a restaurant whose name translates as ‘closed’, but rest assured that small and simple Chiuso is sure to remain a fixture in the neighbourhood. Those familiar with the owners’ former restaurant, Doppio Zero, know that Chiuso is the place to make Argentina’s Italian ancestors proud. There’s no 26 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

soggy pasta or bland risotto here, instead you’ll find white salmon with caponata and risotto infused with saffron and topped with gorgeous prawns. The raciones are ideal for sharing and as seafood features heavily on the menu, opt for a crisp white wine or an Aperol spritz. San Martín 1153, entre Florida y Avenida del Libertador, Retiro (4311 7652/www.chiusoristorante.com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 23, 26, 28, 33, 45. Open noon-4pm, 8-11.30pm Tue-Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6. ! El Cuartito El Cuartito is a taste of BA in its tango heyday, and little has changed since 1934, when it started serving thick-crust, topping-heavy pizzas (except perhaps the prices, nowadays AR$140 for a whole pizza). In the fierce debate over the city’s best pizzeria, this cavernous, no-frills joint is a serious contender for the top spot. One bite of the fugazzeta (cheese and onion pizza) and you might agree, or opt for the Tabasco-laden Atómica. Don’t let the queues put you off: if you’re too famished to wait for a table beneath the photos of local sporting heroes, march up to the cash register and order a slice of whatever you fancy to devour at the

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 27



La Popular (see p32)

counter. For a taste of El Cuartito’s competitors, it’s a mere five blocks to the city’s pizza-parlour heartland of Avenida Corrientes. There you’ll find Las Cuartetas (Avenida Corrientes 838) and Güerrín (Avenida Corrientes 1368). Talcahuano 937, y Paraguay, Tribunales (4816 1758). Subte D, Tribunales/bus 10, 29, 152, 180. Open 12.30pm-1am Tue-Thu, Sun; 12.30pm-2am Fri, Sat. Main courses $. Credit cards MC, V. Map D5. ! V !Filo With Argentina’s constant inflation, it’s no easy task to keep prices in check. Filo, which celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2014, has managed to do just that, and as a result is a popular lunchtime restaurant. Come 1pm, even the bar stools are occupied by rows of financial advisers chowing down on large pizzas topped with every combination of cheese, vegetables and meat imaginable. With a cool, urban interior accented by slashes of red and yellow, a lengthy menu that includes pastas, seafood, salads and more, oversized bread baskets on every table and a traditional brick oven, it’s an obvious contender for one of the best places to grab a bite downtown. Nab a chair early and pair your pizza with a salad made from delicious, flavoursome steamed vegetables. San Martín 975, entre Marcelo T de Alvear y Paraguay, Retiro (4311 0312/ www.filo-ristorante.com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 50, 93, 180. Open noon-2am daily. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C6. A

María Fedele fast and on the cheap, with delivery Squirrelled away inside the options available as well. The classic unassuming Associazione Nazionale rolls are all there, but Wasabi’s Italiana, this discreet restaurant would certainly isn’t bogged down by get the nod of approval from even the tradition; the Malbec roll is salmon and most discerning Italian mother. Make spring onions with Philadelphia the charming waiters’ day by cheese, wrapped in smoked salmon managing to eat with relish all four and sprinkled with a malbec reduction delicious courses on the set menu – not sauce. The original Palermo branch is an easy task, it should be noted. The still going strong at dinnertime. table positively groans with plates of delicacies like smoked roasted peppers, San Martín 986, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Microcentro (4515 0675/www. velvety duck pâté, home-made cured hams, and after the fresh pasta course, wasabis.com.ar). Subte C, San Martín/ bus 5, 7, 20, 22, 93, 99, 100. Open meat course, and home-made dessert noon-5pm Mon-Fri. Main courses $. platter, your stomach may well be No credit cards. Map D6. ! groaning too. Fortunately, the Other location Thames 1810, complimentary digestif, a delicious Palermo (4832 9346). and liberally poured fennelinfused grappa, should PERUVIAN sort things out. !Chan Chan Alsina 1465, entre San Pick up the Fork Tucked behind the José y Luis Sáenz Peña, Keep up with the BA magnificent Palacio Congreso (4381 2233/ food scene with Allie Barolo (see p114), sweet www.ristorante Lazar’s popular blog and simple Chan Chan mariafedele.com). Subte (www.pickupthe continues to wow punters A, Sáenz Peña/bus 6, 60, fork.com). with its brilliant, spicy 86, 151. Open 8pmPeruvian food at affordable midnight Wed-Sat. Set menu prices. Among the long list of AR$250. No credit cards. Map C4. Andean classics, look out for the JAPANESE excellent chicharrón de pescado (battered fish) and the causa de salmón Wasabi’s ahumado – a colourful stack of The downtown location of Wasabi’s is salmon-and-potato-based joy. A open for lunch during the week, with popular dessert is the torta de tres both a seating area and takeaway leches (a three milk sweet treat). Chan options. The sushi joint’s newest location peddles the same quality Chan is a genuine bargain, and the Japanese cuisine at prices that are hard large portions are ideal for sharing, to believe. Soups, sushi combos, Thai which means the budget can stretch to and Peruvian fushion are all served a pisco sour or a jug of Time Out’s

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favourite elixir, chicha morada (a purple corn-based cordial). Hipólito Yrigoyen 1390, y San José, Congreso (4382 8492). Subte A, Sáenz Peña/bus 39, 60. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-12.30am Tue-Sat; noon-4pm, 8pm-10.45pm Sun. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map C4. ! Other location Hipólito Yrigoyen 1386, Congreso (4382 8689). Coya Though this local haunt is located in the backstreets of Microcentro, don’t let the daytime chaos or night-time ghosts put you off eating here. Abundant platters of ceviche made of fresh juicy mariscos soaked in a red onion, coriander and lemon juice marinade make for a refreshing starter to share, but a meal here wouldn’t be complete without a sweet and hard-hitting pisco sour. The decor and ambience is simple, but locals visit again and again for the great food. Tucumán 874, y Suipacha, Microcentro (4393 1709/www.comidaperuanacoya. com). Subte B, Diagonal Norte/bus 29, 59, 67. Open noon-midnight Wed-Mon. Main courses $. Lunch AR$55. Credit V. Map C5. Rawa Having seen queues of disappointed people file away from BA classic Chan Chan (see above), owner María and her family decided to open this restaurant to catch the overfill. Hearty standards like chupe de mariscos, ají de gallina and lomo salteado are popular in the winter, while in hotter weather

San Telmo


La Brigada If you’ve ever had dinner in San Telmo, you know what it’s like to be packed in tightly with eager patrons awaiting their steak and papas fritas. The difference at La Brigada is that you’re more likely to bump elbows with gents discussing wine than with the usual jumble of backpackers and young lovers. Though refined, this parrilla is traditionally Argentinian to its core. One floor of the multi-tiered dining room is covered with framed football jerseys, while further upstairs is a massive wine case with zigzagging bottles. Yet more bottles line the staircase leading downstairs to the cavernous wine cellar, a veritable vino lover’s haven. Estados Unidos 465, entre Bolívar y Defensa (4361 4685/www.parrilla labrigada.com.ar). Bus 8, 22, 24, 28, 29, 33, 61, 62, 64, 74, 86, 93, 195. Open noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight daily. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. El Desnivel High on the list of fun things to do in BA without taking your clothes off is a late-night steak blowout at this legendary San Telmo parrilla. Staffing the joint are bloody-apron-wearing, knife-wielding cooks and cheeky waiters, and the mix of foreigners and locals makes for a boisterous and friendly scene. If you want to feel part of the action, get a table in the main restaurant rather than in the annex out the back. By Sunday evening, after the tourist hordes have worked up an appetite at the street market, the wait can be long – better to go on a quieter weekday, or drop in for a juicy empanada, filled with chicken or beef, to devour as you walk down the street. Defensa 855, entre Avenida Independencia y Estados Unidos (4300 9081). Subte C, Independencia/bus 10, 24, 29, 33, 61, 64, 86, 93, 152, 195. Open 7.30pm-1am Mon; noon-1am Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$90. Credit (Mon-Fri only) MC, V. Map B4.! Gran Parrilla del Plata With a great location on a picturesque corner, fine cuts of beef and rustic-style decor, the Gran Parrilla del Plata has established itself as a barrio classic and gets packed out most nights. All the cuts of meat are exquisite; but the ojo de bife (ribeye) and the tasty entraña (skirt steak) are the ones most recommended by the

Buenos Aires’s best arepas The craze for arepas shows no sign of slowing down in Buenos Aires. The corn flour patty is a popular snack in Venezuela and Colombia and is typically grilled and then served split in half and filled with any array of meat, cheese, beans and vegetables your heart desires.


degustaciones de ceviche and papas a la huancaína reign supreme. Lime-green tablecloths, plastic plants and a towering Machu Picchu on the wall mean Rawa is thankfully just as kitsch as Chan Chan. Talcahuano 447, entre Lavalle y Avenida Corrientes, Tribunales (4519 8629). Subte D, Tribunales/bus 24, 26, 29, 67. Open noon-4pm, 8pmmidnight daily. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map D5.

Arepera Arepera was one of BA’s first arepa restaurants, and is still perhaps the most popular. You’re bound to leave stuffed. Try the arepa del gato – filled with sliced avocado, white cheese and fried plantains. See p64. Ají Dulce This unassuming Palermo takeaway spot offers arepas, wraps, pasteles and an array of dishes you can pay for by weight. Order an arepa filled with carne mechada (shredded beef) and wash it down with a glass of papelón – a refreshing blend of cane sugar and lemon juice. Paraguay 4597 (4775 6614). I Love Arepa The porteños’ growing love for arepas has allowed this tiny Congreso takeaway spot to expand to three locations, with its newest in Palermo. Despite the fancy new neighbourhood, this Colombian joint still offers some of the best prices in town. El Salvador 4101 (4831 1047/www. i-lovearepa.com). Panachef This Recoleta hole-in-the-wall joint serves up scrumptious Latin American and Caribbean food, including arepas and empanadas made with corn meal. Look for the comida callejera (street food) events on Saturdays, when queues spill out the door. Sánchez de Bustamente 1470 (4961 3782).

friendly, multilingual waiters. Equally worth sampling is the Argentinian comfort food, like milanesa and home-made pasta. Still hungry? An enormous slice of tiramisu or the torta guilt – brownie, chocolate mousse, dulce de leche and meringue – should just about tip you over the edge. Classy but welcoming, this steakhouse is always reliable. Chile 594, y Perú (4300 8858/ www.parrilladelplata.com.ar). Subte E, Belgrano/bus 29, 93, 152. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-1am Mon-Sat; 12.30pm-1am Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. Manolo This friendly neighbourhood joint is buzzing most nights with a loyal clientele who come to feast on both excellent parrilla standards, and parrilla standards with a twist – a ham and mozzarella-stuffed steak, for example, or a selection of great sauces. Besides steak, there are Argentinian Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 29



New in town Harturo

Tucked down a quiet cobblestone passageway away from the city’s clamour, the beautifully renovated Harturo restaurant (previously known as Sirop Folie) is the perfect hideaway for a leisurely but indulgent meal. Elegance and comfort are entwined at this charming restaurant and though the menu is seasonal, you can always expect locally-influenced rich flavours. Time Out devoured a crème brûlée of goat’s cheese and a succulent Milanese-style pork rib with a cheese and sage crust. Just be sure to save room for one of the irresistible desserts; the Belgian chocolate fondant with salted toffee is heavenly. Weekends offer an enticing brunch menu of classic dishes like ratatouille, gravlax, quiche Lorraine and eggs Benedict. Unit 12, Vicente López 1661, y Montevideo (4813 5900). Bus 37, 39, 67, 75. Open noon-4pm, from 8pm Tue-Fri; 11am-4pm Sat, Sun; from 8pm Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5.

favourites such as milanesas and home-made pastas. Most dishes are more than enough for two, so moderate your gluttony if you dream of handling one of the many delicious desserts; you’ll be thankful you saved room for home-made flan with dulce de leche or a large slice of tiramisu. Bolívar 1299, y Cochabamba (4307 8743/www.restaurantmanolo.com.ar). Bus 4, 8, 10, 22, 24, 29, 39, 86, 93, 126, 152. Open 8pm-midnight Mon-Thu; from noon Fri-Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4.! ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

!Aldo’s Vinoteca y Restorán At this Russian doll of a restaurant within a wine store within a hotel (the Moreno, see p146), celebrity sommelier Aldo Graziani has made vino the star of the show: 500 quality labels adorn the modern art-deco restaurant. All the wines are selected at blind tastings and sold at retail price, converting this into a fabulous wine store that happens to have a stellar kitchen attached. An exquisite modern Argentinian menu includes tenderloin steak in a rich red wine sauce, vegetable soufflés, lamb risotto, and chocolate volcanos with dulce de leche, just to name a few. Take advantage of the Tuesday wine tastings and Wednesday evening happy hour to find your favourite

grape juice, and then come back every other night. Moreno 372, entre Defensa y Balcarce (4343 0823/www.aldosvinoteca.com). Subte A, Perú/bus 29, 56, 64, 74, 111, 129, 152, 159, 195. Open noonmidnight daily. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$190. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. El Baqueano Awarded 18th spot in the 2014 Latin American edition of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants competition (a highly coveted prize), this San Telmo eaterie is no longer the hidden secret it once was. The theme here is ‘carnes autóctonas’, meaning native meat. El Baqueano’s is perhaps one of the few menus in town that doesn’t include beef; chef and owner Fernando Rivarola instead favours Argentina’s more exotic fauna. And yes, that means llama is on the menu, but in this case served in delicate slivers of carpaccio. Less famous meats include yacaré (caiman) enveloped in a gyoza dumpling with preserves from the yacaratiá tree, and smoked rhea with braised yucca. Original and surprisingly delicious, the tasting menu allows diners to savour delicacies like a millefeuille of duck and cream-cheese tart with strawberries, with wines to accompany each dish. Look out for monthly specials, when a top South American chef takes over the kitchen.

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Chile 499, y Bolívar (4342 0802/www. restoelbaqueano.com). Subte C, Independencia/bus 29, 86, 93, 103, 111, 126, 159, 195. Open 8pmmidnight Tue-Sat. Set menu AR$650. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. Café Rivas Set on possibly the prettiest corner in San Telmo, Café Rivas has the air of a tearoom. Inside, it’s all retro wood and cake stands, and the occasional dramatic flash of fire as the chef does his thing in the open kitchen. The no-nonsense menu is a mix of classic Argentinian and comfort food – think milanesa, neat beef medallions and butternut squash raviolis, served with a smile. But the place really comes into its own as a haven from the teeming streets of San Telmo on a Sunday afternoon; dart in here for a break from the street market madness for a coffee and decadent brownie or cupcake. Come Thursday night, relax to the magical tinkling of a piano being played on the mezzanine floor. Estados Unidos 302, y Balcarce (4361 5539). Bus 22, 24, 29, 130. Open 9am-midnight Tue-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$110. Credit AmEx, V. Map B4. Caseros Passing Caseros on the street, it is hard to resist going inside; huge windows

open up to a blue and white dining room and kitchen that look to have been lifted straight out of a bistro in the French countryside. In lieu of flowers, bowls of lemons and oranges top each table for a pop of colour floating on white tablecloths. The cuisine matches the rustic-chic decor; if menus came with sound effects, Caseros’s carta would open to the thrum of a bustling market and the sound of grannies humming at their chopping boards. Everything is freshly made with locally sourced ingredients, from the warm bread with herb butter, to the fresh prawn and tomato raviolis and ceviche. On a brisk day, nothing is more comforting than Caseros’s rich chocolate cake and rice pudding. Avenida Caseros 486, entre Bolívar y Defensa (4307 4729/www. caserosrestaurante.com.ar). Bus 24, 28, 29, 39, 46, 53, 61. Open 12.303.30pm, 8.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$105. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map A3. Chochán Slang for chancho in Spanish, Chochán pays a special tribute to the king of swine. The casual San Telmo spot welcomes pork-lovers with its kitsch design, communal tables and large chalkboard menus displaying a selected number of appetisers and sandwiches. Young chef Naiara Calviño uses every part of the pig to pump out oinking dishes like pulled pork, milanesa with a fried egg, home-made ham and purple pickled eggs, headcheese and blood sausage potato croquettes. An orgy of sauces are also dropped off at the table, including a spicy Sriracha mayonnaise that gives dishes a nice added heat. Don’t miss the daily happy hour from 7pm to 9pm, which features wine and aperitif specials. Piedras 672, y Chile (4307 3661). Subte E, Belgrano/bus 8, 10, 17, 29, 45, 53, 67, 91, 98. Open 7pmmidnight daily. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map B4. La Panadería de Pablo Elegant, white linen filled restaurants often conjure up images of stodgy diners and fussy plates, but La Panadería de Pablo has found a way to mix elegance with a vibrant, lively atmosphere. The open-air terrace with a cocktail bar certainly doesn’t hurt the vibe, nor does the addition of a different DJ every Thursday night. Good music and drinks aside, the food is forever the star here. As is to be expected of a Pablo Massey venture, the menu is sophisticated and concise; smoked salmon bruschetta and margherita pizza are fresh and light, while the ribeye marinated in rosemary and thyme will satisfy the foreigner hankering after quality Argentinian steak. To unwind after a long week, there’s a varied Sunday brunch menu with the likes of a sophisticated goat’s cheese frittata and down-to-earth hash browns. Defensa 269, y Moreno (4331 6728/ www.lapanaderiadepablo.com). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo/bus 29, 50, 61, 62, 64, 111, 129, 130, 143, 146, 152, 159.

Restaurants La Causa Nikkei (see p40)

Open 9.30am-6pm Mon-Wed; 9.30am-midnight Thu, Fri; 11ammidnight Sat; 10am-7pm Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$168. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. La Popular This colourful place is exactly what it claims to be: popular. The decor stands out here; you can find a bike and vintage Cinzano adverts adorning the walls. The ambience is family friendly and the menu boasts healthy and delicious options. It doesn’t scream originality, but the ojo de bife and mushroom risotto are simply scrumptious. The prices are reasonable and the happy, down-to-earth clientele has made this a staple of the San Telmo dining scene. Avenida Caseros 500, y Bolívar (4307 6040). Bus 29, 39, 70, 93, 152, 159, 168, 195. Open 9am-5pm Mon; 9am-5pm, 8pm-12.30am Tue-Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map A3. !El Refuerzo Pocket-sized El Refuerzo is basically a local’s ‘anti-fashion’ joint, but you get the impression the quirky, laid-back San Telmo regulars are happy to share their favourite spot with you. It’s the perfect place for an aperitif accompanied by quality cured hams, olives, local cheeses and hearty salads. The four satisfyingly simple main dishes change daily, but expect beef and pasta to play a starring role. The

wine list, scrawled on the blackboard, is excellent and well priced. With its black and white tiled floors, antique counter and cluttered wooden tables, this locale feels like a late-night hangout in post-war Rome – you half expect Marcello Mastroianni to scoot up on a Vespa and start flirting with the punters. Chacabuco 872, entre Avenida Independencia y Estados Unidos (4361 3013). Subte C, Independencia/ bus 2, 10, 17, 29, 59, 86, 100, 103 126, 195. Open 10am-2am Tue-Sun. Main courses $$$. No credit cards. Map B4. !A

Those travelling on through Chile will have to stop at Brasserie Petanque’s Santiago branch. Defensa 596, y México (4342 7930/ www.brasseriepetanque.com). Bus 24, 29, 86, 93, 103, 111, 126, 129, 130, 143, 195. Open 12.30-4pm, 8pmmidnight Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$160. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. SPANISH

Café San Juan Café San Juan is no longer the bargain it was when it first opened, but reservations are still more or less essential here unless you’re planning FRENCH to slip in for a quick bite at noon. During the daily lunch Brasserie Petanque rush, chef Leandro Brasserie Petanque is as Cristóbal fashions French as it gets this side Wine and dine inventive tapas and of the Atlantic; bottles of Bars like BASA (see pastas from the likes of wine and Ricard pastis p72) and NOLA (see sun-dried tomatoes, brie are stacked to the ceiling p78) are good for both and seasonal vegetables, and the menu bristles eating and while his mother pours with the sort of Gallic drinking. the wine. The daily menu standards that are hard to is scrawled on chalkboards that tire of. All the bistro classics are hauled around from table to make an appearance, from boeuf table, resplendent with homely dishes bourguignon to escargots, served by a like courgette-rich fettuccine, and corps of efficient and friendly waiters. meaty fare like ojo de bife and pork. For desserts, the crème brûlée sampler Avenida San Juan 450, y Bolívar of vanilla, orange and pistachio is a refreshing take on the French standard. (4300 1112). Subte C, San Juan/bus 4, 8, 22, 24, 28, 29, 33, 61, 62, 86, 152. If it’s Sunday, pitch up early or you Open 12.30-4pm, 8pm-midnight won’t so much as get a glimpse of the Tue-Thu, Sun; 12.30-4pm, 8pm-1am confit de canard, not least since Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$. No Petanque lies smack in the heart of San Telmo’s rolling Sunday market. credit cards. Map B4.

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Other location Chile 474, San Telmo (4300 9344). VEGETARIAN

Hierbabuena While not strictly vegetarian (you’ll find the odd fish or chicken dish), cute, French-style Hierbabuena serves up sophisticated healthy grub. At this cosy San Telmo joint, colour abounds on every plate with vegetables so bright and fresh, even the pickiest kid (or most devoted carnivore) couldn’t resist. And for anyone who thinks vegetarian food can’t be filling, think again: hearty options like the tri-mushroom veggie burger, or home-made pizzas topped with caramelised onions, roasted aubergine, rocket and cherry tomatoes will satisfy every glutton (although Hierbabuena has plenty of freshly baked goods to round off a meal should you be left wanting more). It goes without saying that any meal, vegetarian or otherwise, calls for a jug or two of one of the famous fruit-infused lemonades. Come back on the weekend for the popular brunch menu or, to take some of that Hierbabuena goodness home with you, pop next door to the newly-opened bakery and almacén. Avenida Caseros 454, y Defensa (4362 2542/www.hierbabuena.com.ar). Bus 10, 29, 39, 70, 195. Open 9am-5pm Mon; 9am-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$120. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map A3. V

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 33

La Boca


limb-warming quality that’s verging on narcotic. You can also tuck into fresh centolla (king crab) on the weekends, or keep it light and split a cheeseboard and a bottle of wine. Avenida San Juan 1999, y Sarandí (4304 4261). Subte E, Entre Ríos/bus 4, 12, 37, 50, 53, 62, 84, 90, 150, 151, 168, 188, 195. Open 8am-2am daily. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$90. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C2.


El Obrero El Obrero (literally ‘the worker’, which tells you a fair bit about the ambience of this place) is one of the city’s most famous restaurants, and celebrities from Bono to Wim Wenders have eaten at this living, thriving museum piece in the heart of the old port neighbourhood. (The area is gritty, verging on lawless, ARGENTINIAN – MODERN so go with company and take a taxi there and back.) The decor is busy with Aramburu photos of boxing and football stars, the Despite the rather dubious surroundings, it’s well worth ducking paint is peeling and the toilet is a into this hothouse of culinary glorified outhouse, but this is a classic innovation to embark on a tastingspot for a three-hour lunch or dinner. Most people go for the parrilla items on menu journey through Paris-infused Argentina. Diners are well taken care the chalkboard, but there are also fair pasta and fish dishes, and a selection of of here, as clued-up and friendly staff can decode the complex menu old-style desserts like the sweet flan descriptions, and the open should finish you off nicely. kitchen allows chefs to Agustín Caffarena 64, come out and greet entre Ministro Brin y guests. Creativity Caboto (4362 9912). Bus Blind tasting abounds in every dish on 25, 29, 68, 130, 152, Dine in the dark and a menu that changes 159, 168, 195. Open then catch a pitchseasonally. It’s that kind noon-4.30pm, 8.15pmblack theatre show at of innovation that draws 1.30am Mon-Sat. Main Abasto’s Teatro Ciego food-lovers out to the courses $$$. No credit (see p138) rather neglected cards. neighbourhood, and helped Aramburu achieve a respectable ITALIAN 14th place on Latin America’s 50 Best Il Matterello Restaurants list in 2014. The food takes centre stage in this Salta 1050, y Humberto 1˚ (4305 crisp, clean, cantina-style La Boca 0439/www.arambururesto.com). Subte eaterie. A mixed plate of warm and C, San Juan/bus 9, 10, 12, 39, 45, 51 cold antipasti serves to enliven the 53, 59, 60, 67, 70, 102, 126, 154, taste buds impressively in preparation 168, 195. Open 8.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat. for an excellent, al dente tagliatelle Set menu AR$650. Credit AmEx, with rocket and a truly sumptuous MC, V. Map B3. fazzoletti alla carbonara. Straight-tothe-point service and unpretentious Aramburu Bis decor help to accompany, but not out-twinkle, the star here, which shines The second instalment from Gonzalo brightly from the kitchen. Tourists can Aramburu (of the great Aramburu restaurant, see above), Bis sets the also get a bite of fresh pasta and tone for a new kind of simple yet tiramisu without the long trek to La contemporary Argentinian bistro. The Boca at Il Mattarello’s branch in menu focuses on local seasonal Palermo Soho. ingredients featuring daily specials Martín Rodríguez 517, y Villafañe and inventive house favourites (like (4307 0529). Bus 29, 64, 86, 129, tartar, ribeye and arroz con leche), 130, 152, 159, 168. Open 12.30-3pm, while Argentina’s top sommelier, 8.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat; 12.30-3pm Agustina de Alba, carefully curates the Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit spectacular wine list. Argentinian AmEx, MC, V. Map B2. Other location Gorriti 5102, Palermo products and kitchen equipment fill the bright open space, with penguin (4831 8493). shaped pitchers, spices, bottles of olive oil, freshly baked breads, aperitif bottles and shelves stacked with a range of local wines. ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL Humberto 1˚ 1207, y Salta (4304 5697/www.aramburubis.com). Subte C, Miramar San Juan/bus 10, 17, 23, 39, 45, 51, Beloved by its barrio and by the 60, 67, 70, 79, 91, 96, 98, 168. Open mix of actors and local celebrities 12.30-3.30pm, 8.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat. that frequent it, Miramar is an Main courses $$. Lunch AR$105. No unpretentious restaurant boasting a credit cards. Map B3. well-stocked wine cellar and amiable and experienced waiters. It’s in one of the lesser known and less reputable parts of the city, but for something ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL different and authentic, it’s worth the trip. The cooking is predominantly Pan y Arte Spanish, and it’s extremely good. The oft-forgotten barrio of Boedo has Sample rabbit in white wine, tortillas become a hotspot for the food and art and oysters or prawns in garlic while cognoscenti. Pan y Arte stands out as listening to crackly tangos. The joint’s perhaps the only producer of Mendozan cooking in town, with pizza famed rabo de toro (oxtail stew) has a




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Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 35


and the house speciality, a dry aged T-Bone steak. Wine lovers rejoice: the impressive cellar boasts a selection of over 3,000 bottles, and an exclusive private room for wine tastings. Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo 876 (4331 0454/legrill.com.ar/eng). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo/bus 64, 74. Open 12.30-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 7pm-1am Sat; 12.30-3pm Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5.

al campo mendocino – a smoky-crusted version with tomatoes, herbs and a fresh, tangy farmer’s cheese – among the pick of the pizzas. The regional foods shop and changing roster of artwork by locals, theatre and frequent live music keep the place lively and there’s also a terrace for special events and outdoor seating. Avenida Boedo 880, entre Estados Unidos y Carlos Calvo (4932 4299/ www.panyarte.com.ar). Subte E, Boedo/ bus 56, 75, 86, 115. Open 8ammidnight daily. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$85-$95. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D1.


Uco (see p46)

36 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

Le Grill While traditional local steakhouses flourish in BA, not many spots have mastered modern parrilla food. Overlooking the beautiful Puente de la Mujer bridge in Puerto Madero, Le Grill offers a unique spin on steak – it’s the only restaurant in the city to serve dry aged beef. Grass fed Hereford and Aberdeen Angus cattle are locally sourced from the Tandil countryside, and every cut is aged in a climate controlled room, located underneath the restaurant, for at least 28 days. Navigating the large menu may be a challenge, but start with an elaborate picada, a charcuterie platter of wonderful cheese and cured meats, before tucking into goat’s sweetbreads

i Central Market This Puerto Madero multispace is perhaps the only place in Buenos Aires where you can indulge in a five-star meal at a luxury restaurant and get your grocery shopping done all in one space. This spot gracefully combines an ice-cream shop, deli, bakery, café and restaurant in one fell swoop, and is as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the stomach. Quality is the name of the game at i Central (the ‘i’ pronounced ‘eee’, meaning ‘to eat’ in Mapuche), and whatever you go for, it’s guaranteed to be fresh and additive-free. Sit by the restaurant’s long glass windows, watching the world of Puerto Madero rollerskate by while tucking into a ribeye steak. The original branch, i Fresh Market, is just up the way at Azucena Villaflor and Olga Cosettini. Pierina Dealessi, y Macacha Güemes, Dique 4, Puerto Madero Este (5775 0330/www.icentralmarket.com.ar). Bus 4, 7, 180, 195. Open 8am-midnight daily. Main courses $$$ in the restaurant; $ in the deli and tearoom. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B6. El Mercado Loved, lauded and occasionally criticised, El Mercado tends to split opinions. But no one can deny that Philippe Starck was at his most inspired when he put El Mercado together: glittered portraits of local pop idol Sandro, Maradona and Che Guevara sit effortlessly against a collection of porcelain toy soldiers and judiciously selected lighting shines perfectly over the wooden tables and chairs. The centrepiece is an open-air parrilla, where choice cuts like a 17 oz. flank steak are cooked. Paired with grilled mushrooms, baby potatoes and poached egg, it makes for a perfect meal for two. You haven’t tried the full spectrum of empanadas until you’ve tried El Mercado’s lamb version. Although two empanadas here may cost the same as a dozen elsewhere, hey, you’re only in Argentina, and for that matter, Faena, once. Faena Hotel Buenos Aires, Martha Salotti 445, Dique 2 (4010 9200/www. faenahotelanduniverse.com). Subte B, LN Alem/bus 2, 111, 130. Open 7am-1am daily. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$295. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. JAPANESE

Osaka This uber-stylish Peruvian-Japanese restaurant has the kind of chic decor to keep up with its trendy neighbour, the Faena Arts Centre (see p122). The samurai suit of armour adds a quirky



Argentinian-style tamales and lovely local wine. With reasonably priced food served piping hot from the horno de barro – a domed adobe oven used in the north of Argentina – this country kitchen is hard to beat. Popularity like this comes at a cost: be prepared to queue for around an hour at weekends, when the place fills up with a young, fun crowd. Rodríguez Peña 1149, entre Avenida Santa Fe y Arenales, Recoleta (4813 9207). Subte D, Callao/bus 12, 39, 60, 108, 109, 110, 111, 124, 150, 152. Open noon-5pm, 8pm-midnight daily. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map E5. ! ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

Elena Being Felix de Alzaga’s beloved wife Elena can’t have been bad. The opulent Louis XIII-style La Mansión (now part of the Four Seasons Hotel, see p150) was built for her in 1920, and 92 years later, the hotel restaurant has been named in her honour. Despite belonging to one of Buenos Aires’s fanciest hotels, the tone is refreshingly unpretentious: diners are encouraged to walk through the open kitchen to enter the restaurant, and the marble butcher’s table and glass dry-ageing case are on display just steps away from the tables. Top chef Juan Gaffuri dishes up the likes of glazed pork belly and Argentinian beef, while sommelier Sebastián Maggi matches wine to each dish. The charcuterie platters, piled high with tangy cheeses and finely sliced meats, are the especialidad de la casa, as is the home-made Sicilian ice-cream branded Dolce Morte (sweet death). Posadas 1086/88, y Avenida 9 de Julio, Recoleta (4321 1748). Bus 70, 93, 100, 101, 106, 124. Open 7-11am, 12.30-3.30pm, 7.30pm-12.30am daily. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$295. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

Butchers (see p50)

touch to the decor, but otherwise it’s pure, sleek minimalism. Sit by the bar, at one of the lacquered wood tables, or on the terrace outside and order the tiraditos, creative sushi rolls, or the excellent degustación de ceviches. The cocktails are arguably the best BA has to offer. Try the Cucumber del Pacífico (gin, saké, cucumber, pineapple and lychee), the most refreshing concoction Time Out’s ever gulped down in one. Juana Manso 1164, y Azucena Villaflor (5352 0404/www.osaka.com.pe). Bus 2, 4, 20, 62, 64, 103. Open 12.30-4pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Thu, Sun; 8pm-12.30am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. Other location Soler 5608, Palermo (4775 6964).

Recoleta and Barrio Norte AMERICAN

Dean & Dennys Providing fast food with a conscience, Dean & Dennys hits all today’s buzz words, and the new branch in Recoleta

is no exception. It’s eco-friendly with recycled materials used in the decor, social media savvy thanks to its heavy use of Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, vegetarian-friendly with a double-decker mushroom-based mush burger and even pet-friendly to boot, with ‘dog parking’ on-site and a dedicated menu for pooches. Hot dogs and salads are other stomach fillers, while the milkshakes make for a sweet finish to any meal. Junín 1721, y Vicente López, Recoleta (4807 4065/www.facebook.com. deananddennys). Bus 10, 17, 37, 59. Open noon-1am daily. Main courses $. Credit AmEx, V. Map E5. Other location. Malabia 1591, Palermo (4834 6101). ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL

Cumaná Cumaná is the kind of restaurant that makes you feel hungry as soon as you walk in the door. Surrender to the tantalising aromas, settle in at one of the rustic tables, and order some of the hearty, regional cuisine. Here’s your chance to try locro (a thick Argentinian stew), home-made empanadas,

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Open Restaurant 7pm-1am Mon-Fri; 7pm-1.30am Sat, Sun. Bar from 7pm daily. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. A Roux There’s something deceptively simple sounding about the dishes at this white-tablecloth Recoleta bistro. Plates like couscous and prawn salad and trout with green quinoa seem easy enough, but in chef Martín Rebaudino’s hands, even the most humble cauliflower purée becomes an artful amuse-bouche. Save room for a dessert topped with home-made ice-cream, particularly if you spot one of the refreshing sorbets like grapefruit and orange-pineapple. Rebaudino honed his skills at Oviedo (see p40), and it shows in the exquisite seafood-based dishes and presentation at Roux. The front of house service is nothing short of impeccable, and the wine list includes varieties not often seen in Buenos Aires, like pinot noir, cabernet franc and sémillon. Peña 2300, y Azcuénaga, Recoleta (4805 6794/www.rouxresto.com). Bus 10, 17. Open 12.30-3.30pm, 8pmmidnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, V. Map E4.

Tarquino Named after the daddy of Argentinian meat (Tarquino was the first bull brought from the Scottish highlands to the Argentinian pampas), this gourmet restaurant is an elegant homage to its mother country. From the llama textile walls to the smooth leather tabletops, everything was hand-picked from artisans across the country, but the pièce de résistance is the 70-year-old ficus tree, sprouting through the restaurant’s glass ceiling. Showing off the skills he picked up at Spain’s internationally acclaimed El Bulli restaurant, head chef Dante Liporaci lets his imagination run wild with !Gran Bar Danzón delightfully quirky The contemporary, Holy Cow dishes such as provolone cosmopolitan menu at Try the Cow Sequence and onion ‘pizza’ – a this resto-bar includes at Tarquino (see right) creamy foam only the most luxurious, to eat a cow from head accompanied by a and sometimes exotic, to tail – and everything teaspoon of olive jelly. ingredients: grilled inbetween. Can’t get enough? Book lobster over banana a room at the boutique hotel blintzes, veal sweetbreads – upstairs, Hub Porteño (see p150), and those are just the starters. and you can come here every night. Main courses like herb-crusted rack of lamb and home-made prawn linguini in Rodríguez Peña 1967, y Posadas, a saffron broth continue the theme, and Recoleta (6091 2160/www.tarquino there are sushi and sashimi options for restaurante.com.ar). Bus 39, 60, 61, 93, 100, 124, 129. Open 12.30a lighter meal. There’s a lounge-like 2.30pm, 8-11.30pm Mon-Sat. Main ambience to this space, replete with courses $$$$. Lunch AR$190. Tasting low sofas and glowing candles. An menu AR$800-$1150. Credit AmEx, extensive wine list includes good MC, V. Map E5. A options by the glass – just as well, since the prices weigh in at the upper INDIAN end of the scale. Cocktails, both classic Tandoor and original, will quench your thirst. One of very few Indian restaurants in Try the Sushi Mary – a Japanese take BA, Tandoor has happily satisfied on the bloody mary with saké and many a craving for food from the wasabi – served with a pretty little subcontinent. The restaurant’s sushi roll. Libertad 1161, entre Avenida Santa Fe modern, authentic dishes are enhanced by an airy environment, y Arenales, Recoleta (4811 1108/ which makes eating here a pleasure. www.granbardanzon.com.ar). Subte D, Spices are imported from India, as are Tribunales/bus 39, 70, 75, 100, 102.


Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 39


New in town La Mar Cebichería

Fans of the original Lima location waited for months for the new branch of this internationally-acclaimed Peruvian cevichería. The BA outpost is a feast for the senses – you can smell it from a block away, the outside bar and dining area’s tropical paradise vibe is sure to get you in the holiday mood, while inside you can watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen. And then there’s the food. Order anything on the menu – whether it’s freshly caught seafood cooked in a lemon, garlic and hot pepper sauce, spicy ceviche or an enormous fish to share – and your taste buds are sure to be delighted. Wash the food down with a silky smooth cocktail, then end on a light note with the queso helado – cinnamon ice-cream with coconut foam, fresh flowers and mint. Arévalo 2024, y Nicaragua (4776 5543/www.lamarcebicheria.com.ar). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 39, 57, 95, 111. Open noon-4pm, 8.30pm12.30am Tue-Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. A

the chefs and the tandoor oven. As well as classics like chicken tikka masala, the menu includes several tasty lamb dishes. Laprida 1293, y Charcas, Barrio Norte (4821 3676/www.tandoor.com.ar). Subte D, Agüero/bus 12, 39, 92, 111, 118, 140, 152, 188, 194. Open noon-3.30pm, 8-11.30pm Mon-Fri; 8pm-midnight Sat, Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4. V ITALIAN

La Locanda It took a true Sardinian to show Argentinians how Italian food should be done. Chef and owner Daniele Pinna makes Italian food come to life thanks to his boisterous personality and passion for cooking, feeding and pleasing stomachs with his rustic home-style food. Pinna brings a slice of Italy to Buenos Aires in the form of perfect pillows of gnocchetti in a lamb ragu, fresh grilled octopus and porcini mushroom risotto. Food aside, La

Locanda’s home vibe has made it a favourite barrio joint among locals. For a special private dining experience, book the chef’s table in the basement. Pagano 2697, y Tagle, Recoleta (4806 6343). Bus 60, 92, 93, 110, 118, 128, 130. Open 8pm-midnight Tue-Sat: noon-4pm Fri-Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F5. Piola With locations scattered across the Americas, this Treviso-born pizzeria chain has gourmet pie-tossing down to a science: roll the thinnest crust possible, top with fresh greens and sharp cheeses, and serve in a slick space. Salads and authentic pasta are on the menu too, but your best bet is a signature pizza – the smoked salmon and rocket-topped Rimini, or the leafy Praga, a white pizza piled with rocket, chicken and parmesan shavings. Libertad 1078, y Avenida Santa Fe, Recoleta (4812 0690/www.piola.it). Bus 39, 60, 67, 111, 132, 140. Open noon-2am Mon-Fri; 7pm-3am Sat;

40 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

7pm-2am Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. Other location Gorriti 5751, Palermo (4777 3698). PERUVIAN

La Causa Nikkei In a city full of cheap and expensive Peruvian restaurants, La Causa Nikkei fills a gap by serving up well-priced Peruvian fusion food in the heart of Recoleta. The decoration is modern and industrial with an open kitchen, a large patio, booth seating and shelves stacked with large, multi-coloured bottles. The food is mainly Peruvian, the lomo salteado, ají de gallina, and seco de carne all come in large portions while there’s a long list of Japanese sushi fusion specials and ceviches for those on a healthier diet. Brisk service and well-executed cocktails make this a fine option. Avenida Callao 1290, y Juncal, Recoleta (5218 0900/www.lacausanikkei.com). Bus 12, 17, 60, 93, 106. Open noon-3.30pm, 8pm-midnight daily.

Main courses $$. Lunch AR$144. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. SPANISH

Oviedo Oviedo has a bit of a clubbish atmosphere and is a favourite with businessmen and political hacks. But never mind the clientele. Here, classic Iberian dishes are prepared with great care and attention to detail. Tortilla a la española, grilled chipirones, baked clams and oven-baked white fish are savoury reminders of the old country, each one faithful to tradition but still special in its own right. For locally sourced fish, try the bacalao (cod), caught in Mar del Plata. The staff is of the old-fashioned variety: attentive, professional gentlemen in bow ties, while the wine list is one of BA’s best. Beruti 2602, y Ecuador, Barrio Norte (4822 5415/www.oviedoresto.com.ar). Subte D, Pueyrredón/bus 12, 64, 152. Open noon-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Other location Cabrera 5065, Palermo (4832 2259).

Burger Joint Bringing food porn to the burger scene, BJ offers perfectly cooked burgers, like the spicy Mexican or Jamaican, hand cut French fries and home-made curried ketchup, which are all firm favourites of expats and locals. Owner Pierre Chacra pleases the Palermo crowds with a cool and kitsch spot where diners take their burger-and-fries-induced creativity to the walls, writing and drawing messages alongside movie posters and pop culture references. Jorge Luis Borges 1766, y Costa Rica (4833 5151/www.burgerjoint.com.ar). Bus 36, 39, 55. Open noon-midnight daily. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map G3. !

!Don Julio Don Julio doesn’t mess with parrilla classics; the buzzing Palermo grill just does them to perfection. A basket of fresh bread and chimichurri will warm up your appetite before you pick out your favourite cut of meat from the excellent selection (the lomo and entraña are exquisite). And thanks to owner Pablo, who sends his waiters to wine school, your server will know just how to help you choose the malbec or cabernet that best complements your beef. For vegetarians, a glass of wine will equally complement a hearty plate of pumpkin-stuffed sorrentinos. The decor is rustic-chic, and the leather tablecloths and exposed brick walls stacked with signed wine bottles add to the warm atmosphere. Guatemala 4691, y Gurruchaga (4831 9564/www.parilladonjulio.com. ar). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, 57, 110. Open noon-4pm, 7pm-1am daily. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.



Las Cabras Meat-lovers have been queuing up to get tables at this parrilla since it opened. It’s been a great success in the overcrowded Palermo eating scene for the simple reason that it serves good quality food, and lots of it. The prices may seem high, but considering the immense portion sizes, this parrilla offers the most bang for your buck. The mixed grill has enough meat for three and includes two types of chorizo and all the offal you can imagine. Vegetarians are catered for too, and even the wine list ticks the value-for-money box. Colouring crayons are provided so that you or your children can doodle away on the paper tablecloths. With all this to offer, this place is popular: if you’re going at the weekend, get there before 9.30pm or forget it. Fitz Roy 1795, y El Salvador (4774 5617). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 166, 168. Open noon-1am daily. Main courses $$. No credit cards. Map H2. ! La Cabrera Listed in just about every guidebook and blog, it’s safe to say La Cabrera is a reliable place to experience a traditional Argentinian parrilla. On an attractive corner site that used to be a general store, professional staff serve extra-large portions of expertly prepared meat. Standouts include flank steak, steak-sized sweetbreads and stuffed pork shoulder. Though traditional to its core, La Cabrera adds some twists to its side dishes, such as the quail egg potato salad. Don’t order too much: half portions will be fine for even the hungriest, especially as every cut of beef comes with a smattering of sides, like mashed potatoes and pumpkin. The sister restaurants, La Cabrera Norte and La Cabrera Boutique, have helped cut waiting times, but now more than ever, a reservation is advised. Cabrera 5127/5099, entre Thames y Uriarte (4832 5754/www.parrillala cabrera.com.ar). Bus 34, 39. Open 12.30-4.30pm, 8.30pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 8.30pm-1am Sat, Sun. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$150.



La Dorita In this parrilla kitted out with junk chandeliers and pop-art mixed media, families rub elbows with local celebs. But the A-list star here is the meat. A tabla de carnes (three beef cuts of your choice) arrives sizzling in its own juices. Grilled provoleta cheese – crisp on the outside, oozing within – and fried potatoes with onion make the perfect side dishes. The wine list is short but knowing, with many of the quality mid-range malbecs available in half-litre jugs. Humboldt 1892, y Costa Rica (4776 5653/www.parrillaladorita.com.ar). Bus 39, 93, 108. Open 8am-2am daily. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$115. Credit MC. Map H3.

NEW Las Horas Set in a renovated mansion, Las Horas is an elegant new addition to the Palermo parrilla scene. Though the menu serves all the usual suspects, there are also options for the adventurous asado-lover, including a vegetable parrilla and a salad of sun-dried tomatoes, dried figs, mozzarella and rocket. Add that to impeccable service and hunks of carne cooked to perfection, and it’s no wonder Las Horas is a firm hit with locals. Paraguay 4601, y Thames (4773 2078). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 29, 59, 60, 152. Open noon-5pm, 7.30-midnight daily. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Lo de Jesús This upmarket parrilla began life in 1953 as a grocery store-cum-bar run by a Spaniard called Don Jesús Pernas. Since then, it has had a complete makeover, but retains its old-school charm. Over 270 wines line the shelves, the walls are covered in vintage photos and the original wood panelling and black and white chequered floor have Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 41



Isabel (see p76)

been retained. Try the ojo de bife with malbec or opt for the lunch deal – three courses and a drink for AR$159. Gurruchaga 1406, y Cabrera (4831 1961/www.lodejesus.com.ar). Bus 39, 55, 57, 110. Open noon-4pm, 7.30pm-1am daily. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$159. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Minga As a steakhouse with trendy boutiques and cafés for neighbours, it’s only fitting that Minga is elegantly outfitted with beige, glass and distressed wood furnishings. Large slabs of steak are still the star, but are presented on elegant cutting boards with tiny saucers of chimichurri and garlic. Accompaniments like grilled goat’s cheese with rocket and a creamy potato gratin are presented just as beautifully in individual cast iron skillets. Minga pushes the boundaries of the parrilla, but purists need not despair: the menu still offers all the traditional Argentinian staples. Costa Rica 4528, entre Armenia y Malabia (4833 5775/www. mingaparrilla.com.ar). Bus 39, 55, 168. Open from noon daily. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$100-$120. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. Miranda This fashionable contemporary parrilla is a steakhouse for the trend-conscious carnivore: instead of chips or mashed

potatoes, the solomillo de cerdo (pork loin) and Patagonian lamb come with caramelised vegetables and fruits. The Jacinta salad, tossed with grilled chicken and squash, and the polenta, provoleta cheese and vegetable stack are other highly recommendable dishes on offer. This parrilla’s quality and creativity pull in the punters week after week. Costa Rica 5602, y Fitz Roy (4771 4255/www.parrillamiranda.com). Bus 34, 39, 57, 93, 111, 140, 151, 168. Open 9am-1am Mon-Thu, Sun; 9am-2am Fri, Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$125. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.

freshly-fried ossobuco empanadas. Stick around long enough and you’re bound to hear the Peronist march blasting from the jukebox, with at least some customers singing and clapping along. We can’t imagine a Maggie Thatcher themed restaurant having quite the same following. Carranza 2225, entre Paraguay y Guatemala (4777 6194). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 12, 15, 29, 39, 41, 55, 57, 60, 67, 93, 108, 111. Open 6pm-1am Mon-Fri; 7pm-2am Sat. Main courses $$. No credit cards. Map H3.

El Preferido de Palermo Regarded as a site of Perón Perón historical interest by the Only in Argentina city of Buenos Aires, would anyone dream up this is a no-frills, highly Health nut a restaurant like Perón authentic restaurant set Find vegetarian-friendly Perón: an all-gunsfoods like tofu, soy meat, within a traditional blazing tribute to dried beans, cereals and grocery store. Argentina’s original Argentinian comfort nuts at one of Buenos power couple and the Aires’s many foods are favourites working class Peronist dietéticas. here; plates like the movement. Historic photos, fabada asturiana (white beans, political graffiti, portraits of chorizo sausage and bacon), and power couple Cristina and Néstor the cazuela de mariscos a la provenzal Kirchner and antiques from the 1940s (seafood stew) are not likely to be and 1950s cover every inch of the updated anytime soon. Sip on excellent place, while taking centre stage is an Evita shrine. The menu too is peppered local wine and graze on assorted Spanish tapas while you make a with cheeky political references; the mental note to read Borges in the house wine has a picture of Perón original, now that you’ve dined on the himself on it and even the beer here is corner where the author claims that Peronist. Both make for a refreshing Buenos Aires began. way to wash down a plate of

42 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015


Guatemala 4801, y Jorge Luis Borges (4774 6585). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 34, 36, 39, 160. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Rietti On a pleasant corner just a few blocks from the main hubbub of Palermo Soho, this restaurant attached to BA Sohohotel (see p152) is a decent option for a fuss free lunch or dinner. Head to a table by the floor-to-ceiling window to watch the world go by, and take your pick from the varied menu, which includes traditional parrilla-fare as well as pasta, risotto and fish. Treat yourself to one of the quality wines, some of which are available in half bottles, or splash out on a bottle of Rutini Brut champagne. Jorge Luis Borges 2205, y Paraguay (4833 2272/www.riettirestaurant.com. ar). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 29, 152, 160, 194. Open 7.30am-11.30pm daily. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

NEW La Carnicería Small and stylish La Carnicería is a parrilla with a modern twist. The meat is glorious enough on its own, but the side dishes have such panache it’s only a matter of time before every parrilla in the barrio produces a copycat. A bife de chorizo or slab of pork might come


with pumpkin and orange mash, a creamy jacket potato or a paste of fresh dates, while a classic provoleta is topped with a slice of peach and the chorizo adorned with peas and a fried egg. If a trip to La Carnicería isn’t already on your to-do list, you’d better rewrite your agenda. Thames 2317, entre Charcas y Guemes (2071 7199). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 12, 29, 39, 60, 128, 160, 161, 188, 194. Open 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun; 1-3.30pm Sat, Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Casa Cruz Long standing Casa Cruz has relaunched and reloaded under the careful eye of Aldo Graziani, of popular joints Aldo’s Vinoteca (see p30) and BeBop (see p135), serving a modern take on porteño classics with speciality house cocktails and impressive wines, all in a luxurious and comfortable setting. Start with sweetbreads cooked in red wine with mushrooms, and continue with the marinated skirt steak or massive milanesa napolitana. Extra tip: be sure to take lots of selfies in the impressive bathroom with its wine cava views. Uriarte 1658, y Pasaje Santa Rosa (4833 1112/www.casacruz-restaurant. com). Bus 34, 39, 55, 108, 140, 151, 166, 168. Open noon-4pm, from 7pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Crizia A block that sees countless tourists and A high-ceilinged, New York-style locals on a daily basis has to offer a little dining room, sophisticated cocktails something for everyone, and Janio, (with and a long oyster bar set the scene for dishes like beef stir-fry, lasagne and a Sex and the City-style get-together milanesa on its menu) certainly does. with your besties (the elegant ones that Lunch specials are well-priced for the neighbourhood, but Janio has clientele dress and behave well, that is). If you’re in the mood for a date night, the at just about every hour of the day enjoying a generous glass of malbec dining room’s soft lighting and mellow and watching Palermo go by. tunes keep things thoroughly Malabia 1805, y Costa Rica romantic, making it an ideal (4833 6540/www. spot to take someone janiorestaurant.com). Bus special (as an added bonus, Crizia’s oyster bar Forget McDonald’s 15, 36, 39, 55, 57, 106, is also a standout). The Get gourmet burgers at 110, 111, 140, 141, 151. Open 8am-1am Sun-Thu; impeccably presented Recoleta’s Mi Barrio 8am-4am Fri, Sat. Main Hamburguesería cuisine is Mediterranean(Arenales courses $$$. Lunch Argentinian fusion, with 2609). AR$89. Credit AmEx, MC, just a splash of oriental. V. Map G3. There’s plenty of tempting seafood on the menu, but for a meal to warm you up on a cold winter night, Museo Evita Restaurante Museum restaurants can be hit or miss, try the braised Patagonian lamb but the lunch experience at Museo followed by chocolate soufflé with Evita’s restaurant is a far cry from white chocolate sauce. standing in a cafeteria-style queue for Gorriti 5143, entre Uriarte y Thames overpriced bottled water and a grilled (4831 4979/www.crizia.com.ar). Bus panini. Housed in the same ritzy 34, 39, 55, 108, 140, 151, 166, 168. antique residence that once served as a Open 7.30pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main women’s shelter run by Eva Perón’s courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. foundation, the restaurant offers two Map G2. A appealing venues – a black-and-white tiled courtyard and the cosy-chic Janio dining room, decorated with tasteful Just across the road from Plaza Evita memorabilia. The rocket salad Armenia, replete with outdoor seating with figs, brie, artichoke and jamón and a huge, multi-tiered interior, Janio crudo makes for a sensational and is located in the equivalent of the executive corner office of Palermo Soho. sophisticated lunch. The dinner menu


tends towards heartier dishes like risotto, pastas and steaks. On balmier nights on the patio, a passionfruit mousse and a generous glass of malbec are well worth lingering over. You can also pick up souvenirs, from dedicated bottles of wine to Evita T-shirts, in the museum’s excellent shop. Juan María Gutiérrez 3926, y República de la India (4800 1599/www. museoevitaresto.com). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 12, 15, 29, 108, 110. Open 9am-midnight Mon-Sat; 9am-7pm Sun. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$130. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4. V NC Freud & Fahler There’s a real neighbourhood feeling to this fine restaurant and pâtisserie. Set on a quiet corner with plenty of good wines (try the Animal chardonnay) and fresh bread, it makes for an elegant spot for lunch or a night out. An impressive flip clock from an Italian train station hanging on the wall is just one example of the restaurant’s semi-industrial 1950s aesthetic, with a straightforward decor of white marble tabletops and low-hanging bubble lamps. Stop by for the wickedly good torta húmeda de chocolate amargo in the afternoon, or treat yourself to the exotic dishes inspired by chef and owner Pablo Lykan’s travels. The Patagonian lamb proves that beef most definitely isn’t the only meat worth sampling in Argentina. EZEQUIEL POCCARD

Miranda (see p42)

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Cabrera 5300, y Godoy Cruz (4771 3652). Bus 34, 39, 55, 93, 108, 111, 140. Open 12.30-3.30pm, 8.30pmmidnight Mon-Thu; 12.30-3.30pm, 8.30pm-1am Sat. Pastelería from 12.30pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$120-$210. No credit cards. Map G3. !Paraje Arévalo Cited as many a restaurant reviewer’s favourite spot, Paraje Arévalo has certainly gained a glowing reputation among Buenos Aires’s food-lovers. It’s no surprise really, seeing as chefowners Matías Kyriazis and partner Estefanía di Benedetto met during their stint at the Michelin-starred Fat Duck in the UK. They certainly learnt a thing or two, as the tasting menus (choose from six to ten courses) feature innovative dishes such as pepper and coriander crusted sirloin and salmon cooked at 55 degrees in beetroot juice. As for the decor, it’s charmingly understated: the tiled black and white floor, crisp white linen tablecloths, blackboard menu and vintage bike propped against the wall give the place a cosy, unpretentious feel, while the knowledgeable and friendly staff make sure every customer is extremely well looked after. Arévalo 1502, y Cabrera (4775 7759/ www.parejaarevalo.com). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168. Open from 8pm Tue-Sat. Tasting menus $$$$. Credit MC. Map H2.

!Las Pizarras evening’s pleasure: cocktails, fine Tucked away in a quiet part of dining and good music. Ralph’s is the Palermo, this tiny restaurant is almost result, and it’s simply divine. Chef invisible from the outside, but once Hernán Taiana of Astrid y Gastón inside the black cast iron doors, there’s fame makes stunningly presented, a warm, glowing ambience, buzzing exquisite food, the staff are attentive with the low hum of conversation and yet discreet and the interior is all plush clinking wine glasses. This stylish but furnishings and low lighting. From laid-back restaurant has no menu, just Wednesdays to Saturdays, a DJ mixes a list of creative concoctions made jazz as socialites pose on the patio. The from whatever owner and chef, menu changes with the equinox, but Rodrigo Castilla (ex chef tournant to whatever the season, you won’t forget Gary Rhodes), has bought fresh from an evening at Ralph’s. the market that day. Those Gurruchaga 1830, y Costa Rica (4832 concoctions are scrawled on huge 8940). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, chalkboards (pizarras) hung 110, 111. Open 8pm-4am around the walls; Tue-Sat. Main courses sketches of ducks, corn $$$$. Credit AmEx, MC, stalks, carrots and V. Map G3. A Thrifty gourmet rabbits next to the Can’t afford BA’s top descriptions can give restaurants? Top chefs !Tegui you a clue of the serve dishes for AR$50- Although Tegui was ingredients if your ranked at number nine in $60 at Feria Masticar Spanish fails you. Latin America’s 50 Best (see p6). Although dishes are often Restaurants (www. based on Argentinian classics, theworlds50best.com) for the this restaurant is truly one of a second year in a row, it remains kind. If you are feeling adventurous, discreet. Tucked behind an eyeask Rodrigo to order for you. catching, deliberately graffitied wall Thames 2296, y Charcas (4775 0625/ and unassuming black door lies www.laspizarrasbistro.com). Subte D, Argentina’s top-rated restaurant. Inside Plaza Italia/bus 10, 12. Open from is a more sumptuous affair: a wine 8pm Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. cellar spans the entire front wall, Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. forming an impressive backdrop to the larger-than-life ceiling. The open Ralph’s kitchen allows diners to peer in on the Jorge Fernández Moreno had a dream. catering process, and the VIP room, An upmarket bar and bistro where the well-heeled could enjoy an entire which borders the kitchen, presents


guests with an exclusive dining experience, compliments of head chef Germán Martitegui (who acts as a judge on the local version of MasterChef when not in Tegui’s kitchen). A brief but exquisite menu changes weekly, utilising whatever techniques or ingredients have caught the chef’s fancy (the likes of sweetbreads, fresh gnocchi and ossobuco are certainly no strangers to the menu). In the evening, you can opt for the five or ten course menu for AR$700 or AR$1000 (AR$1000 and AR$1500 with the addition of wine pairings). Costa Rica 5852, entre Ravignani y Carranza (5291 3333/www.tegui.com. ar). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 168. Open 8.30pm-12.30am Tue, Wed; 8.30pm-1am Thu-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. NEW Uco Irish chef Ed Holloway brings an eclectic menu to the newly revamped restaurant at the Fierro Hotel (see p152). The best way to sample Uco’s fresh take on Argentinian cuisine is with the AR$470 tasting menu, but the attentive waiting staff will happily help you order à la carte if you’re not in the mood to splurge. Fish lovers shouldn’t miss the trout smoked in Argentinian quebracho wood accompanied by a zingy fennel salad or the ceviche-style salmon carpaccio, while true carnivores will rejoice at the ALLIE LAZAR

Chochán (see p30)

46 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

Top dining streets

San Martín Microcentro isn’t known to be a food destination, but the narrow street of San Martín is home to a variety of cuisines. Newest to the mix is homely Italian spot Chiuso (see p26), nestled against Plaza San Martín, while Dadá (see p24) is a classic Buenos Aires hangout for good drink and food. Nearby DOGG (San Martín 657, 4516 0288) serves American hot dogs but with a gourmet twist. Also just off Plaza San Martín is quirky pizza joint Filo (see p28), and popular sushi spot Wasabi’s (see p28) opened its second location on calle San Martín in 2014. Defensa San Telmo is bursting with restaurants, many of them traditional Argentinian eateries. Bar Plaza Dorrego (see p19) is one such spot, as is El Desnivel (see p29), one of the area’s most well known parrillas. The two are always packed on Sundays, when the San Telmo market takes over calle Defensa. Panadería del Pablo (see p30), on Defensa and Moreno, is a more modern spot and a perfect escape from the tourist crowds. Brasserie Petanque (see p32) has a classic French menu, ideal for when you want a plate of escargot rather than another steak. Avenida Cerviño Posh Palermo Chico has quickly become a trendy destination, particularly along and around Avenida Cerviño, as Palermo Soho and Hollywood become oversaturated. Guido Restaurant (see p54) is a long time favourite for Italian food. A block from Cerviño on Lafinur is newly opened but already buzzing Middle Eastern joint Mishiguene (see p56). A neighbourhood favourite for wine, meats, cheeses and sandwiches is The Pick Market (see p106), just off Cerviño on Ugarteche. Rumour has it neighbourhood favourite Leopoldo (Avenida Cerviño 3732, 4805 5576) is slated to reopen. For dessert, Patagonian ice-cream parlour Jauja (Avenida Cerviño 3901, 4801 8126, www.heladosjauja.com) on the corner of Lafinur is a must.


Arévalo Nearly every street in Palermo is home to a slew of trendy restaurants, cafés and bars, but quiet and cobblestoned Arévalo steals the show. Paraje Arévalo (see p46) is located on a somewhat unassuming corner on the very edge of the barrio, but has consistently been voted one of the best restaurants in Latin America. Just a few blocks away is Arevalito (see p59), a charming shabby chic vegetarian spot with a menu that changes regularly. On the next block is Cucina Paradiso (see p52), an Italian market, café and restaurant with imported goodies, Illy coffee and fresh pastas. La Mar (see p40) is perhaps the hottest new arrival on the street, occupying a massive corner, but also bringing a bit of buzz is the hidden Barraco (see p48), a closed-door restaurant. After a dinner at any of the above, you’re just steps away from a pint at Cervecería Nacional (see p76).

glazed ribeye steak or the 18-hour slow cooked shoulder of Patagonian lamb. For dessert, the French-style apple tart is a must. Start the evening off early with the 6pm to 8pm happy hour for tapas on the newly decked patio. Soler 5862, entre Ravignani y Carranza (3220 6800/www. ucorestaurant.com). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 12, 39, 57, 60, 67, 93, 95, 111, 152, 161. Open 8am-11pm Mon-Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. BRAZILIAN

Boteco do Brasil So many Brazilian restaurants outside of Brazil get it wrong, either serving up triple-fried heart attacks on a plate or charging you the equivalent of an airfare to Rio for a caipirinha. Boteco do Brasil has avoided all those pitfalls, meaning it’s been the top-reigning Brazilian spot in Buenos Aires for years on end. Its good-value menu serves a stunning rendition of the Brazilian national dish, feijoada, and seafood lovers will rejoice with the coconutty bobó de camarão and flaky empadinha de camarão, both made with quality prawns. Its success allowed Boteco to upgrade from a single-room restaurant to a larger, brighter space that’s packed every night. Along with colourful paintings and a beautiful terrace with cushy white benches, Boteco also has a bar that serves the best caipirinhas in town. Check the Facebook page for information and updates on the fun and funky live Brazilian music nights. Honduras 5774, entre Bonpland y Carranza (3979 2970/www. botecodobrasil.com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 140, 168. Open 11ammidnight Tue-Sun. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map H2. !A BRITISH

Chipper For a country with 5000km of Atlantic coastline, fish is surprisingly overlooked on most Argentinian restaurant menus. Little wonder then that Buenos Aires’s first traditional fish and chips eaterie is netting a roaring trade. The owner may be Irish (there’s Guinness on the menu) and the chef Peruvian, but this is the real British deal: think flaky, deep-fried cod in a crispy batter served with thick-cut potato chips and a wedge of lemon. Add a choice of home-made dipping sauces – tartare, mushy peas, spicy curry or blue cheese – and you’ve got yourself a gourmet fishy feast. Grilled salmon and salads are healthier options, while hearty pies, beefburgers and chicken nuggets ensure pescaphobes are catered for. The nautical-style interior is a feat in itself; it’s all blue-and-white decor and shimmery tropical fish. Takeaway and delivery are offered, but you’d be wise to eat in – and fast – if you go for the delectable deep-fried ice-cream. Humboldt 1893, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador (4777 6760/www.chipper fishandchips.com). Bus 34, 39. Open 12.30-4pm, 7.30pm-midnight daily. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$90. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 47



Behind closed doors Time Out’s pick of Buenos Aires’s best puertas cerradas


rriving at a chef’s home is a bit like going to a dinner party, but everyone’s a stranger – at least for the first few minutes. Puertas cerradas (closed-door restaurants) offer set menus for a fixed price (take cash as credit cards are rarely accepted) and booking is always required – addresses are provided when you reserve. Barraco Already owner of the award-winning Paraje Arévalo (see p46), chef Matías Kyriazis has taken his talents for updated Argentinian classics to a puerta cerrada format. Step past the sliding doors of the restaurant’s vinoteca to a semiprivate dining room, and grab a seat at the bar so you can watch the chefs work their magic. The ninecourse tasting menu has dishes that sound humble enough, like burrata and cherry tomatoes, cured beef with potatoes, and yoghurt and strawberries for dessert – but the decadent burrata is made in-house, the perfectly-cooked meat gets a garnish of wholegrain mustard and

the strawberry-flavoured yoghurt is flash-frozen with edible flowers for an unforgettable presentation. ! Location Palermo (4773 6119/ parajearevalo@gmail.com). Bus 39, 41, 57, 60, 67, 68, 95, 111, 152. Open enquire about reservations. Set menu AR$550. Casa Coupage At Casa Coupage you can expect the drinks to be every bit as spectacular as the food. The brains behind the outfit, Santiago Mymicopulo and Inés Mendieta, are both sommeliers, so alongside your dainty portions of melon gazpacho, camambert ravioli and confit lamb shoulder, there are specially selected wine pairings. As well as the set menus there are à la carte options and wines by the glass. ! Location Palermo (4777 9295/ www.casacoupage.com). Bus 34, 39, 108, 111. Open from 8.30pm Wed-Sat. Set menu AR$540. Casa Felix At Casa Felix, Diego and his wife Sanra invite guests into their

48 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

Chacarita home for a five-course tasting menu. Each dish, usually vegetable or fish-based, is made from exotic produce sourced during the couple’s travels – and often from the back garden. Past menus have included sopes (thick, fluffy corn tortillas) with guacamole, and figs stewed in malbec to start, and for a hearty main course, home-made tamales. A small selection of Argentinian wines are available to purchase, and the couple have recently begun offering cooking classes. ! Location Chacarita (mobile 15 4147 8100/www.colectivofelix. com). Bus 39, 72, 90, 111, 127. Open from 9.30pm Thu-Sat. Set menu AR$390. V Casa Saltshaker Chef and sommelier Dan Perlman cooks up a different five-course meal each week for the ten privileged guests who sit round the communal table of his lovely home. The delicately balanced, exquisite dishes blend Mediterranean and Andean flavours and are paired with

five delectable Argentinian wines. Past menus have included baked sea bass with spicy artichoke purée and fluke ceviche with yellow chilli and passionfruit. ! Location Barrio Norte (www. casasaltshaker.com). Subte D, Pueyrredón/bus 59, 60, 92, 93, 101. Open from 8.45pm Wed-Sat. Set menu AR$700. La Cocina Discreta La Cocina Discreta offers a gourmet dining experience combined with art, cultural expositions and good music. Owners Alejandro and Rosana welcome up to 18 guests for a four-course meal that can include dishes such as duck breast in a balsamic reduction, accompanied by mint and pea purée and fennel ragout. Sign up for one of the cooking classes to learn all the secrets of this elegant and creative cuisine, and look out for the secret gigs and parties organised by chef Ale Langer in BA’s exclusive spots. ! Location Villa Crespo (4772 3803/www.lacocinadiscreta.com).

Subte B, Malabia/bus 15, 55, 110, 124, 127. Open from 9pm Thu-Sat. Set menu AR$360.

i Latina In a city where tropical flavours are scarce, i Latina satisfies many a craving with its Caribbean-Latin American seven-course menu. Held in a magnificent house, this upscale dining experience headed by the Colombian Macías brothers is just as much about presentation and service as it is about gourmet food. While the set menu changes weekly, you can expect playful dishes such as octopus ceviche Nikkei with an avocado foam, or coffee-braised lamb in a green plantain cream. ! Location Villa Crespo (4857 9095/www.ilatinabuenosaires.com). Bus 15, 55. Open from 8pm TueSat. Set menu AR$700; AR$1080 with wine. Jueves a la Mesa Thai, Moroccan, Caribbean and Mexican are just a few of the cuisines US expat Meghan Lewis and her team cook every week. The menu changes fortnightly, but consistently offers creative, unpretentious vegetarian cuisine. The communal table and open kitchen means there’s no divide between diners and chefs, and guests can converse while passing around bottles of organic wine. Dinner comes to a satisfying end with Meghan’s home-made dark chocolates, often infused with spices such as pink pepper. ! Location San Telmo (mobile 15 6200 0004/www.juevesalamesa. wordpress.com). Subte E, Belgrano/bus 24, 28. Open from 8.30pm Thu. Set menu AR$250. V Ocho Once Argentinian chef Gonzalo Bazterrica juggled Michelin stars and molecular gastronomy before chucking it in for something more


Cocina Sunae Every week Christina Sunae Wiseman cooks up a new medley of South-east Asian flavours at her gorgeous Colegiales home. The four courses rotate between Thai, Vietnamese, Philippine and occasionally Malaysian or Indonesian dishes, but the mix of spicy, sweet, salty and sour is always perfectly harmonised. Thai tom kha soup and Vietnamese spring rolls will whet your appetite for main courses like braised pork doused in a coconut curry. Spice fiends can ask for an extra bit of heat, although if you overdo it, Time Out recommends the ginger kamikaze cocktail as a way to put out the flames. A pot of hot tea and a stunning dessert are lovely ways to end a satisfying meal. ! Location Colegiales (mobile 15 4870 5506/www.cocinasunae. com). Subte B, Tronador/bus 21, 76, 87, 93, 127, 140. Open from 8pm Wed-Sat. Set menu AR$290. V

organic in the comfort of his own beautifully renovated home. His artfully presented five-course tasting menus give a French twist to South American classics: the sliver of raw fish in a passionfruit salsa is a nod to Peruvian ceviche, while the organic beef served with a cauliflower and caramelised onion purée in a port sauce doesn’t stray far from the pampas. Fruit-based desserts are waistline-friendly and the wine cellar is a shrine to the organic grape. ! Location Palermo (mobile 15 3614 5719). Bus 39, 93, 108. Open from 9pm Wed-Sat. Set menu AR$300 for three courses; AR$350 for five courses. Paladar Husband and wife team, chef Pablo Abramovsky and sommelier Ivana, offer up to 20 guests an intimate dining experience in their Villa Crespo home. The five-course tasting menu changes every week and the selected winery every month. The focus is on combining fresh, local products with skilful cooking techniques. Although some of the most noted dishes are meat or fish based – breaded prawns with a coconut and coriander dressing for example – vegetarians, coeliacs and rawfoodists can also be catered for. ! Location Villa Crespo (mobile 15 5797 7267/www.paladarbuenos aires.com.ar). Subte B, Malabia/ bus 15, 55, 57, 65, 71. Open from 9pm Thu-Sat. Set menu AR$250; AR$350 with wine. El Tejano Closed-door restaurant by night, and takeaway spot by day, El Tejano – run by Texan Larry Rogers – brings the taste of real Texas barbecue to BA. Everything is slow cooked in an impressive smoker, and house specialities include jalapeño and cheddar cheese chorizo sausages, brisket, whole chickens, pulled pork and ribs smothered in a home-made whisky barbecue sauce. If you leave without smelling of meat smoke, you did it all wrong. ! Location Honduras 4416 (info@ eltejanoba.com.ar/www.eltejanoba. com.ar). Bus 15, 36, 39, 140. Open from 9pm Tue-Sat. Set menu varies, enquire for prices. Treintasillas At Treintasillas in Colegiales, diners enjoy a five-course set menu that changes weekly, but is always based on the premise of using high-quality ingredients to produce delicious, memorable meals. Past delights have included a risotto with roasted prawns and cured ham, grilled ribeye steak with caramelised fennel and, to finish on a sweet note, a chocolate and pistachio marquise. ! Location Colegiales (mobile 15 4492 7046/www.treintasillas.com). Bus 39, 42, 63. Open from 8pm Thu-Sat. Set menu AR$330. Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 49



Azema Exotic Bistró Run by twinkly-eyed, amiable chef-owner Paul Jean Azema, this restaurant is a word-of-mouth wonder. Loosely themed on the cuisine of French and formerly French territories, which gives meaning to the ‘Exotic’ part of the restaurant’s name, the menu features dishes from the South Pacific, the Caribbean, various parts of Asia, and even Réunion, Azema’s native Indian Ocean island. The globe-trotting cuisine means you could see a Vietnamese pho and pâté de campagne on a baguette on the same menu, and fortunately at Azema you know they’ll both be cooked just right. You can pick up a copy of BA’s French newspaper, Le Traitd’Union, while you’re there. Carranza 1875, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador (4774 4191). Bus 39, 93. Open 8.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. No credit cards. Map H3. Blanch Palermo dwellers ought to be thankful this Asian-inspired tapas spot has moved from Las Cañitas to their barrio. Chef Diego ‘Tatu’ Rizzi cooks up a diverse menu of delicacies, like pork meatballs with a Thai peanut sauce, spicy potato-stuffed samosas and a tangy vegetable salad dotted with prawns. Climb upstairs to the renovated terrace to enjoy some of Blanch’s refreshing jugs of aperitifs under the stars. Come with a group (or a very large appetite) so you can order as many items as possible. And with bottles of quality wine available for market prices, why not order a few of those as well? Carranza 2181, y Guatemala (4771 4440). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 29, 39, 93, 111. Open 8.30pmmidnight Tue-Sat; 12.30-4pm Sat, Sun. Main courses $$. No credit cards. Map H3. A

NEW Butchers It’s rare to get every element right on your first foray into food, but newly minted restaurateurs Max and Pablo have managed to do just that with their chic Palermo sandwich shop. The two act as chefs, sommeliers and waiters, but keep the service swift and friendly with a creative menu of sandwiches, salads and cheese plates. Sandwiches with crisps and coleslaw sound like the kind of dish you’d find at a school canteen, but these crisps are made in-house, the delicate red cabbage coleslaw is topped with black sesame seeds and sandwiches are filled with the likes of spiced lamb and feta cheese. Add to that a selection of boutique wines, stark and stylish decor and Butchers is surely a winner. Costa Rica 5863, y Ravignani (4775 1872). Bus 39, 57, 111, 168. Open from 8pm Tue-Sat. Main courses $$. No credit cards. Map H3.

Astor (see p64)

50 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

NEW Comité The exposed brick ceiling and refurbished decor of this compact

Restaurants Chipper (see p47)

restaurant are more chic than rustic, while a tick-the-box tapas menu ticks all the boxes: Time Out loved the salmon tartare with dill mayo and white radish pickles. For mains, the halibut with endives and oyster mushrooms in a saffron broth was a favourite. Owner and chef Pablo Dellepiane’s stint in Catalonia’s Michelin starred restaurants shows in the creative menu, but it’s his passion for pastries that leaves the sweetest taste. The rich chocotortas and melt-in-the-mouth lemon pies are works of art. And the ice-cream of the day – it could be ginger, jasmine tea or wasabi – leaves a tasty impression too. Gorriti 5900, y Ravignani (4774 1595). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168. Open 9am-midnight Mon-Sat; 10am-midnight Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$98-$148. No credit cards. Map H2. Fifí Almacén This large almacén and organic eaterie serves up some of the tastiest wraps in town. A standout on the menu is the Mustafá, a delicious organic grilled chicken, houmous, tabbouleh and olive wrap, but you can’t go wrong with any combo of tasty cheeses, grilled vegetables and curried sauces. The service is perfect and the puddings

even more so; release your belt a notch to make room for the gooey chocolate mousse with caramelised banana, coconut and peanut. Wines and beers (organic, of course) are also on the menu to refresh your palate. Don’t forget, there is also 10 percent off your bill if you come by bike. Gorriti 4812, entre Gurruchaga y Armenia (2072 4295/ www.fifialmacen. com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 106, 110, 140, 141, 151. Open 10am-8pm Sun-Wed; 10am-midnight Thu-Sat. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map G2. Gran Dabbang Chef Mariano Ramón and his wife Philippa Robson have created a gourmet oasis on a busy street just a few blocks away from the trendier parts of Palermo. With experience in the kitchens of Thailand, India and London, Ramón returned to his native Argentina to provide a mix of South-east Asian, Middle Eastern and Indian cooking never seen before in Buenos Aires. While the menu changes frequently, the crunchy fried chard pakoras with sweet carrot chutney are a mainstay, as are the rich and flavoursome curries. The intimate setting lends itself well to a date or small group and the dishes are perfect for sharing.

52 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

Scalabrini Ortiz 1543, y Honduras (4832 1186). Bus 15, 36, 39, 55, 57, 110, 140. Open 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. ! V FRENCH

A Nos Amours This Parisian bistro – with its high windows, black-and-white photographs, vases filled with fresh flowers and French poetry books resting on each table – is a suitable spot to indulge in a romantic candlelit dinner. A large chalkboard announces the limited yet carefully chosen in-season menu, including favourites such as squash ragu, grilled octopus, risotto or fish of the day; the wine list is equally well curated, with bottles from various regions of Argentina, each hand-picked by the charismatic French owner. Tempting desserts like lemon tart make it almost obligatory to end the meal on a sweet note. Gorriti 4488, y Aráoz (4897 2072). Bus 39, 151. Open from 9pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, V. Map G2. ITALIAN

Il Ballo del Mattone Wildly popular, family-owned Il Ballo del Mattone is just as well known for its pasta dishes as it is for its cool, arty

decor. The speciality is fusilli scarparo, a deliciously simple parmesan, tomato, garlic and basil pasta. Expect chalkboard menus, kitsch art scattered about and helpful staff. The laid-back, quirky and fiercely hardworking owners deserve the success they have garnered – and they still find the time to host art exhibitions and film screenings. Check the Facebook page for the latest news and events. Gorriti 5737, entre Carranza y Bonpland (4776 4247/www.ilballo. delmattone.com). Bus 39, 108, 111. Open noon-4pm, 7pm-3am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$109 Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. ! Other location Gorriti 5950, Palermo (4776 8648). Cucina Paradiso The closest you’ll get to Italy without hopping on a plane, this cosy, part café, part restaurant has hungry punters queuing at the door. Inside, wooden tables are crammed together while shelves are stacked with top quality Italian produce ranging from celebrity chef and owner Donato de Santis’s brand of extra-virgin olive oil to bottles of imported grappa. Chefs cut fresh pasta at the counter, while food lovers salivate over mozzarella, marinated olives and rosemary focaccia at the deli. The clinking of wine glasses, the

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 53


strains of ‘O Sole Mio’, the rich aroma of Illy coffee and animated discussions enjoyed over platefuls of authentic Italian pasta (try the gnocchi with pesto and mascarpone) will provide solace to any homesick Italian. Arévalo 1538, y Cabrera (4770 9406/ www.dadonato.com). Bus 39, 168. Open 10.30am-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. Fornería Easily the best dining option on Plaza Armenia, this restaurant has carved out a niche for itself as a refuge from the busy fashionista thoroughfares. With its elegant French-style bar, exposed brickwork and retro-chic simplicity, Fornería attracts the laptop-affixed workaholic by day and an unaffected Palermo crowd by night. For something substantial, you can’t go wrong with a woodfired-oven pizza and eclectic salad. Although perhaps resist ordering the delicious sounding Beso Prohibido pizza (topped with plenty of cheese, garlic, olives and basil) if you’re on a date.

Malabia 1825, entre Nicaragua y Costa Rica (4831 5447/www.forneria.com.ar). Bus 39, 55, 57, 111, 141, 151, 168. Open 8am-1am daily. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$120. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Guido’s Bar This pea-sized trattoria is the kind of place one always looks for but rarely finds in Italy. With every inch of the letterbox-red walls plastered in movie poster kitsch, featuring real Italians (Mastroianni and Caruso) alongside honorary ones (Sammy Davis Jr), Guido’s is as much an evocation of an era as it is a culture – and in 2009 was the alleged meeting place of smitten South Carolina governor Mark Sanford and his local lover. There’s nothing sordid about owner Carlos’s passion for Italian food, though. The tasting menu is splendid: waiters force-feed you a parade of colourful appetisers followed by home-made pasta and dessert, until you say, ‘basta!’ República de la India 2843, entre Cabello y Gutiérrez (4802 2391). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 29, 39, 152.

161, 188. Open from 7pm Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4. A

!Guido Restaurant A narrow stairway leads up to this intimate space, a little piece of Italy on a quiet street, where red and white chequered tablecloths, mismatched wall art and Italian tunes help pull the scene together. Inviting you to ‘mangia sano, mangia italiano’, the menu’s great selection of pasta, creative sauces and pizzas ensures just that: good, healthy Italian dining. The menu’s star plates include the seafood platter for two and the agnolottis stuffed with braised lamb, truffle cream and porcini mushrooms. Those tired of malbec should try one of the artisanal beers available on tap for a welcome change. An excellent bar serving up classic cocktails, live music on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays and an outside patio, make this the perfect spot to enjoy a warm evening. Avenida Cerviño 3943, y República de la India (4802 1262/www.guido restaurant.com.ar). Bus 10, 93, 118,

Siamo nel Forno Superb service and airy, thin-crust pizza made to order – no mean feat in Buenos Aires, where pizza can often mean thick slabs of reheated, cheese-laden dough, slapped on a countertop. At this little Palermo restaurant, you’ll only find authentic Neapolitan-style pizza, meaning chewy crusts, fresh mozzarella and a drizzling of quality olive oil. A huge brick oven in the centre of the dining room gives diners a mouth-watering view of every pizza from its inception to final product. Standouts include the Patate, a simple potato pizza, and the Spinaci, with three types of cheese and fresh spinach leaves. Siamo nel Forno’s specials change nightly, often with less conventional toppings like asparagus and octopus. There is a small, savvy wine list, and for dessert, be sure to save room for a wonderfully decadent Nutella-laden pizza. Costa Rica 5886, entre Ravignani y Carranza (4775 0337). Bus 39, 57, 108, 111, 168. Open 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3.


Open 7am-1am Mon-Sat. Tasting menus AR$350. No credit cards. Map G4.


Fukuro Noodle Bar Palermites are slurping up the home-made ramen at BA’s first ever noodle bar. Fukuro owners Vanessa and Matías Camozzi travelled extensively to noodle shops across Japan, the United States and South-east Asia to perfect their house recipe and introduce porteños to soul warming ramen noodle soup. The bright coloured space is decked out with a cool stencil graffiti motif designed by local street artist Cabaio. Hop onto a bar stool and choose from a reduced menu where everything is made from scratch: pork buns, gyoza, hand-pulled ramen noodles, 24-hour simmered broth, spicy dipping sauces and creative desserts like marshmallow cereal biscuits. Costa Rica 5514, y Humboldt (3290 0912/www.fukuronoodlebar.com). Bus 34, 39, 57, 108, 111, 166. Open 8pm-midnight Tue-Thu; 8pm-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map H3.

Osaka (see p36)

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Tenkuu Sushi This sushi spot in Palermo balances the subtle class of Japanese tradition with the culinary vitality of contemporary Peruvian fusion food. The extensive menu includes mouth-watering sashimi and excellent nigiri, as well as a range of Pacific flavours such as Thai chicken and superb Peruvian brochettes. Be sure to book in advance as the space is intimate to say the least, but those who do manage to secure a table will enjoy good service overlooked by Japanese paintings. Top it all off with some saké and you’ll see why Tenkuu is a solid spot for sushi. Cabello 3370, y Paunero (4801 8042/ tenkuusushi.com.ar). Bus 57, 59, 60,

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 55


67, 92, 93, 95, 102. Open 8-11pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F4. Tô With Buenos Aires’s first-and-only conveyor belt sushi service, sleek Tô is the place to see and be seen in Palermo Hollywood. Grab a counter stool at the bar to watch fresh California and sashimi rolls go by, and admire master mixologists and sushi gurus at work. Don’t miss the crème de la crème of the Frapenese cuisine, the De Paris a Tokio, sushi rolls with avocado, caramelised onions, Dijon mustard and caviar. The large selection of wines and cocktails caters for all tastes, but whatever you choose, be sure to save some space for the volcán de chocolate. Costa Rica 6000, y Arévalo (4772 8569/www.torestaurant.com). Bus 39, 57. Open 8pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 8pm-1am Thu-Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. A MIDDLE EASTERN

El Manto Maybe it’s the fortune teller in the confessional booth, waiting to read the dregs of your post-dinner coffee – but there’s something mysterious about El Manto. This is authentic and scrumptious Armenian cuisine, and it’s arguably the best in the city. You’ll find all of your favourites here – houmous, kibbe, kefte, kebabs, pilaf, tabouleh and much more, all prepared in a subtly

different way from that which you might be used to, with a delightful delicacy of flavouring and presentation. Standout dishes include the smoky shish kebabs, the almond lamb and the yoghurt with saffron cream. Low-lit and lovely – and did we mention mysterious? You get the picture: it’s romantic! Costa Rica 5801, y Carranza (4774 2409/www.elmanto.com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 95, 108, 111, 166. Open from 8pm. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. NEW Mishiguene Sophisticated but never stuffy, Mishiguene is most definitely not your grandmother’s Jewish cuisine. The menu takes its inspiration from classic Middle Eastern dishes, with an emphasis on Israeli and Jewish food, but is never afraid to innovate. Appetisers include a stunning deconstructed baba ghanoush, while the signature main course is a pastrón cooked for 36 hours. Stick around after your meal for a round of cocktails from the chic bar, or, for a really special evening, book a spot at the private chef’s table for a multi-course meal served straight from the kitchen to your table by the chefs. Lafinur 3368, entre Seguí y Avenida del Libertador (3969 0764/www. mishiguene.com). Bus 10, 37, 57, 67, 102, 110, 128, 130, 160, 188. Open 7.30am-10.30am, noon-4pm, from 8pm


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Mon-Fri; 7.30am-4pm, from 8pm Sat; 7.30am-4pm Sun. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G5. A PERUVIAN

M Bar Part art gallery, part sushi bar, part bistro, M Bar pleases everyone with a menu that is as diverse as it is delicious. The M stands for mar (sea): much of the menu is pescatarian, with standout Peruvian dishes such as the tiradito limeño – tangy, limey sole strips with ají amarillo – and creative sushi, like the salmon nigiri with rocoto sauce, ginger and garlic. But fish-phobes need not despair, as there are pasta, burgers and steak on the menu too. Sit at the sushi bar or grab a table by the art covered wall and dine under stylish hanging lamps to the sound of sizzles from the open kitchen. El Salvador 5783, y Carranza (4778 9016/www.mbuenosaires.com.ar). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111. Open noon-3.30pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 8pm-midnight Sat. Main courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. Olaya Olaya isn’t just another spot serving Peruvian-Japanese fusion food. Instead, executive chef José Castro Mendivil, also responsible for Osaka (see p36) and Sipan (see right), pays tribute to over 500 years of Peruvian food culture and immigration, combining its culinary legacies with world cuisines: Japanese, Chinese, Indonesian, French

and Italian. The extravagant space features a massive mural by famous Argentinian artist Milo Lockett, pisco bottles on display and a whole fish on ice next to the open kitchen. Portions are hefty, as are the prices, making it a draw for trendy Palermo big spenders who want to enter a world of elaborate and sophisticated Peruvian flavours. Humboldt 1550, entre Gorriti y Cabrera (4843 1751). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111. Open 8pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 8pm-1am Thu-Sat; Main courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. Páru Who knew sliced fish could taste so good with parmesan cheese? Peru-born chef Jann Van Oordt, co-creator of Osaka (see p36), has gone it alone here to produce a successful joint which, after a dream run in upscale Palermo Hollywood, relocated to the even more upscale, uber-exclusive Racket Club tucked away in the Palermo woods. Park yourself on the terrace and expect temptation to strike under each heading on the menu – and on the excellent pisco-dominated drinks list. Racket Club, Valentín Alsina 1450 (4778 3307/www.paru.com.ar). Bus 15, 29, 42, 55, 59, 60, 64, 118, 130. Open from 8pm Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Sipan Fashionably located in the Palermitano hotel (see p154), Sipan, with its funky

Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 57

Save room for dessert Restaurants


decor, open kitchen, impeccable service (not a given in Argentina) and stellar pisco bar is a winner on the Peruvian cuisine circuit. Bow down before the Señor de los Milagros cocktail, a uniquely Peruvian mix of pisco, purple corn and lime, before getting started on an array of ceviche and sashimi. Time Out’s favourites include the octopus in black olive cream and the tiracuyá – a creative take on the traditional tiradito, with fresh pink salmon, miel de maracuyá (passionfruit honey) and crispy filo pastry. Uriarte 1648, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4833 9383/www. sipanrestaurants.com). Bus 34, 39, 55, 108, 140, 151, 166, 168. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-midnight Sun-Wed; noon-4pm, 8pm-1am Thu-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Lunch AR$180. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. A Other location Paraguay 624, Microcentro (4315 0763). POLISH

NEW Krakow Polish comfort food finds a home in Argentina in the form of Krakow, hidden away in the lovely Polish community centre. Here you’ll see Argentinians of Polish descent enjoying the country’s classics, such as potato-filled pierogies, cabbage stuffed with beef and veggies, and hearty portions of meat and potatoes. The dining area boasts a beautiful indoor patio that you’d never know was hidden away among Palermo Soho’s bars and clubs. Those with gluten allergies would be wise to take note of the quiet little spot: Krakow’s very extensive menu includes many gluten-free options. Jorge Luis Borges 2076, y Soler (4775 3950/www.krakow-resto.com.ar). Bus 15, 36, 39, 55, 57, 110, 111, 141, 160. Open from 7pm Tue-Sat. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. SCANDINAVIAN

LAB Tostadores de Café

Porteños have quite the sweet tooth. While most desserts consist of copious amounts of dulce de leche, sickly sweet meringue, whipped cream and even more dulce de leche, a few spots are excelling with delicious and innovative postres that are impossible to resist. Newcomer Punto Letra (Godoy Cruz 1554, 4774 2665, www.puntoletracatering.com.ar) started off as a catering company headquartered inside the owner’s kitchen, but recently opened up a shop to the public. The pastelería is best known for its signature briques, rectangular desserts that come in all sorts of inventive combinations. The frozen take on the local Marroc (a chocolate and peanut butter square sold at kioskos) is life changing, as are the chocotorta (a popular dessert of dulce de leche, chocolate biscuits and

cream cheese) and banana cheesecake with dulce de leche. Ninina Bakery (see p21) brings elaborate puddings to life with renditions like the Lola Mora, a flourless dessert with layers of hazelnut and almond-flour cake, and dark chocolate mousse covered in chocolate ganache with raspberries and blackberries, while Scarlett (Nicaragua 4457, 4833 3197, www.scarlett.com.ar) does right by flavours like chocolate mousse and passionfruit. Over in Recoleta, modern boutique bakery wonderland Smeterling (Uruguay 1308, 5294 6070, www.smeterling.com) serves a sensual selection of perfect mini cakes that are just as beautiful to look at as they are to eat. Celebrity pastry chef Pamela Villar works her magic at Villa Crespo’s Yeite (see p22), baking favourites like cheesecake brownie,

58 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

carrot cake and probably the best medialunas (croissants) Buenos Aires has to offer. Although heladerías abound in this city, Occo (Dorrego 1581, 4777 9302) of Chacarita is not your traditional porteño ice-cream parlour; this modernised joint makes flavours like lemon cheesecake, melon and mascarpone cheese, chocolate and ground pepper, and banana with coconut and caramel. And finally, it wouldn’t be fair to talk sweet treats without mentioning what are possibly the greatest cookies in the southern hemisphere. It’s impossible to have a bad day if you start the morning at LAB Tostadores de Café (see p20) for a fresh batch of the café’s soft, gooey and warm cookies studded with chocolate chips or white chocolate and raspberry.

Olsen Olsen has been going strong for ten years; it was one of the first chic haunts to come to Palermo Hollywood, a barrio that is now swimming with similar places. Nonetheless, Olsen’s uber-stylish, minimalist design, (think hanging copper lamps and an ivy-covered patio lounge) manages to remain a highlight in the neighbourhood. The Scandinavian cuisine matches the stylish interior, with the smørrebrød (comprising smoked salmon, pastrami, smoked cheese, langoustine and more) being a favourite. No trip to Scandinavia would be complete without a bit of vodka; Olsen’s 60-plus vodka shots are the house speciality, but the liquor is put to particularly good use in the house cocktail Mint – Absolut vodka, passionfruit and…you guessed it, mint. On a weekend afternoon, spend a few hours nursing a bloody mary while lounging in the patio, and you’ll understand why Olsen is here to stay. Gorriti 5870, entre Carranza y Ravignani (4776 7677). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 168. Open 12.30pmmidnight Tue; noon-midnight Wed-Fri;

noon-1am Sat; 10.30am-midnight Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$120. Credit V. Map H2. AV SOUTH-EAST ASIAN

!Sudestada Minimalist and sophisticated, yet artfully unpretentious, Sudestada has spent over a decade at the forefront of the local gastronomic scene – a tough job in this country. Main courses include Thai noodle dishes, a rotating selection of curries, grilled Asian beef, stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts and tonsil-tingling Indonesia-style stir-fried egg noodles. The lunch special, available on weekdays, remains good value. You’ll be hard pressed to find starter, main and wine, for AR$120 anywhere else in the neighbourhood. Guatemala 5602, y Fitz Roy (4776 3777). Subte D, Palermo/bus 15, 93, 108, 111, 152, 194. Open noon3.30pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$. Lunch AR$120. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. VEGETARIAN

Arevalito Mismatched tables and chairs, paper lamps and handwritten menus, this vegetarian joint is hippie-chic to the core, but charming decor aside, it’s the home-made food that plays the starring role. Each day sees a new menu that changes between lunch and dinner, typically featuring a vegetable tart, a salad of the day and numerous desserts. The pastry on the leek and potato tart Time Out had was close to perfect: crumbly, thick and tasty. Expect to see unique creations as well, like a vegetable-stuffed chapatti topped with a poached egg, accompanied by a huge, fresh green salad. Just as spectacular and delicious is the refreshing grapefruit pomelade. Arévalo 1478, y Cabrera (4776 4252). Bus 39, 93, 108. Open 10am-midnight Mon-Sat; 12.30-5.30pm Sun. Main

Artemisia With decor that includes deliberately mismatched crockery and a pantrystyle counter laden with tempting home-made breads and muffins, this vegetarian eaterie was an instant hit with Palermo’s brunch set. Try starting your meal with an atypical picada – that’s atypical in that instead of consisting of ham and cheese, it includes bruschetta with dips and the delicious and original addition of beetroot marinated in ginger, honey and thyme. Mains include polenta lasagne and haddock in a marinade of lemongrass and coconut milk. Gorriti 5996, entre Ravignani y Arévalo (4776 5484/www. artemisianatural.com.ar). Bus 39, 57. Open 9.30am-12.30am Tue-Sat; 9.30am-5pm Sun. Main courses $. Lunch AR$120. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. V Other location Cabrera 3877, Palermo (4863 4242).


Green Bamboo The popular Vietnamese restaurant Green Bamboo balances the five essential elements of sweet, salty, bitter, spicy and sour tastes in a way that’s likely to keep even the most sophisticated palate interested. You can build your own plate with your choice of noodles, rice and meat, or order from an array of perfectly balanced dishes that includes the likes of fried wontons filled with steamed tofu and aubergine, ginger and sweet chilli squid, decadent short ribs and fish of the day marinated with tamarind, basil and shallots, wrapped up in a bamboo leaf and barbecued. One of the exotic fruit-inspired cocktails, like the delicate litchi martini or a grapefruit-laced Hemingway daiquiri, is an absolute must to round out a meal. With your stomach thrilled by the spicy delights, the bar area will keep your eyes amused with what some might describe as kitsch tat, all under the watchful gaze of Ho Chi Minh. Costa Rica 5802, y Carranza (4775 7050/www.green-bamboo.com.ar). Bus 39, 57, 93, 95, 108, 168. Open from 8.30pm daily. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. AV

courses $. Lunch AR$50. No credit cards. Map H2. !V

Bio Bio was the first organic restaurant in Buenos Aires, and has been serving vegetarian, vegan and raw food dishes to a loyal clientele for over a decade. And while raw or vegan options might sound cold and clinical to some, Bio infuses plenty of warmth and spices into its plates, with creative combos like curried rice and almond soup and classics with a twist, like quinoa risotto and cashew nut cheese pizza. In order to spread the organic love, Bio also offers cooking classes and sells organic goodies like fig coffee and wine in-store. Plenty more eateries have jumped on the organic food trend in the past ten years, but Bio is the real deal. Humboldt 2192, y Guatemala (4774 3880/www.biorestaurant.com). Bus 12, 15, 29, 39, 55, 60, 67, 108, 111, 118. Open 10am-midnight daily. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$100. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. V Buenos Aires Verde It ain’t easy being green, or vegetarian in BA, but Buenos Aires Verde pulls off both with aplomb. The hippie aesthetic of the paintbox-bright decor belies a surprisingly sophisticated and varied menu. Salads with fresh dressings and vegan mayonnaise are a standout, as are the dozens of smoothies, juices and elixirs available. For mains, a row of flavourful seaweed and seed rolls comes wrapped around cashew cheese, mushrooms, bean sprouts and goji berries, while the polenta with tomato sauce and mushroom ragout is a hearty, filling option for a cold day. Walls are also lined with vegetarian, vegan and raw food goodies for sale, including baked goods, dried beans and home-made almond milk. Gorriti 5657, entre Fitz Roy y Bonpland (4775 9594/www.bsasverde. com). Bus 34, 39, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 166, 168. Open 9am-12.30am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$60. No credit cards. Map H2. !V Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 59



Las Cañitas AMERICAN

lunch in the sunshine, and watch the world go by as you stuff yourself silly on hunks of meat served on a sizzling tabletop grill. Delicious sauces like chimichurri and salsa criolla will get your tonsils tingling, and are ideal slathered on top of a succulent steak or a juicy sausage. In the evening, make a reservation to avoid waiting for a table as this joint fills up quickly. Báez 302, y Arévalo (4772 8441/www. parrillaelprimo.com.ar). Bus 10, 15, 29, 39, 41, 55, 57, 59, 60, 95, 118, 152, 160, 161, 194. Open from 6pm Mon-Thu; from noon Fri-Sun. Main courses $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H4.

Kansas Basking in the presence of the nearby, splendid Hipódromo de Palermo racetrack, Kansas has its own grand entrance and glamorous appeal. The queue can easily top an hour any day of the week, and the bar is often so packed there may not even be a place to enjoy a caipikiwi while you wait for your table. Once seated however, summon your appetite, roll up your sleeves and get ready to dig in to a hearty American meal with all the trimmings. The classic cheeseburger is MEXICAN perfection and the Houston barbecue !La Fábrica del Taco ribs are finger-lickin’ good, and a La Fábrica del Taco adds some massive and messy affair just spice to this alreadythe way they should be. If bustling neighbourhood. there’s still room, try the Slightly more upscale chocolate fudge brownie; Brunch time and if there isn’t, wriggle For a hearty brunch at than the original Palermo that top button loose and the weekends, go to joint, the Las Cañitas order that dessert anyway. Blanch (see p50) or space is still decked out in fun Mexican decor – Avenida del Libertador Uco (see p46). talaveras and candles 4625, entre Benjamín mixed with colourful homages Matienzo y Jorge Newbery to lucha libre make for a festive (4776 4100/www.kansas experience that is as enjoyable for the grillandbar.com.ar). Bus 64. Open playful ambience as it is the fantastic 11.45am-midnight Sun-Thu; 11.45amfood. Spicy tomato salsas of all heat 1.30am Fri; 11.45am-2am Sat. Main courses $$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. A levels add real flavour to the fresh tacos. For those with a more sensitive ARGENTINIAN – TRADITIONAL tongue, the house speciality taco al pastor – strips of marinated pork with Parrilla el Primo a tasty home-made sauce – is a firm Locals flock to this prime Las Cañitas favourite and best washed down with a spot for its fantastic location, wonderfully spicy michelada or high-quality meat and friendly and tequila-based cocktail. efficient staff. Come for a long lazy


Chiuso (see p26)

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Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 61



Brasserie Petanque (see p32)

Báez 246, entre Arévalo y Andres Arguibel (4832 0815/www. lafabricadeltaco.com). Bus 10, 12, 15, 29, 55, 60, 95, 118, 152, 160, 161, 166, 194. Open from noon Tue-Sun. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map H4. ! Other location, Gorriti 5062, Palermo (4832 0815).


Bi Won Unimposing to the point of being invisible, this Korean restaurant is set in a neighbourhood better known for its fabric wholesalers than for fabulous dining experiences. Don’t be put off by the ice-cream freezers that greet you as you enter, or the chintzy wallpaper: the place might have had a style bypass, but a glance at the customers should reassure you that the food here is authentic. The mandu guk is a huge bowl of broth with meat and vegetable-filled dumplings, while the sengson chigue is a spicy seafood stew made to share. If you like your eating experiences interactive, go for the bul gogui, sweet-tasting macerated meat with a tabletop grill for DIY cooking, plus a host of side dishes including pickled vegetables and anchovies.

Junín 548, y Lavalle (4372 1146). Subte B, Pasteur/bus 50, 60. Open noon-3pm, 7.30-11.30pm Mon-Fri; 7.30-11.30pm Sat. Main courses $$$. No credit cards. Map D4.

Villa Crespo and Almagro ITALIAN

Salgado Alimentos ‘Panza llena, corazón contento’ (full belly, happy heart) is the slogan of this Italian neighbourhood gem, and night after night satisfied customers roll out of here with a pasta-sauce smile. With its fluorescent lighting, diner-style decor and fresh pasta counter, this restaurant is definitely substance over style – but oh, what substance! The chicken cannelloni in a creamy mustard sauce and raviolis de jamón crudo are divine. Reasonable prices mean there’s room in the budget for dessert; go for panza-padding portions of cheesecake, chocotorta and tiramisu. Juan Ramírez de Velazco 401, y Aráoz, Villa Crespo (4854 1336/www. salgadoalimentos.com.ar). Subte B, Malabia/bus 24, 110, 124. Open noon-midnight Tue-Sat. Main courses $. Lunch AR$70. No credit cards. Map G1. !H

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Thames 1101, y Jufré, Villa Crespo MIDDLE EASTERN (4772 4911). Bus 19, 34, 39, 55, 90, Sarkis 108, 151, 166, 168. Open noon-3pm, Good things come to those who wait, 8pm-1am daily. Main courses $. No and you’re guaranteed both good credit cards. Map G2. !V things – and a wait – at perennially popular Sarkis, repeatedly cited as one of Buenos Aires’s best spots for Middle SPANISH !La Esperanza de los Ascurra Eastern cuisine. Despite the barely This Spanish-style tapas bar is as translated menu, Sarkis has poetic as it sounds. Paintings drummed up such a following (some by co-owner Martín that waits can easily top Beraldi) hang on a an hour (fortunately, washing line and are for there are plenty of Villa Fuudis sale; while recycled Crespo and Palermo Book a tour with the tables and colourful bars nearby to duck into Aussie-Argie team at chairs, each decorated for a drink while your Fuudis (www.fuudis. table opens up). Don’t be com) to sample the best by a different artist, give the place a bohemian afraid to ask the staff for of BA’s food vibe. After a shopping recommendations if scene. stint at the nearby Villa you’re not familiar with the Crespo outlets, duck in for a names of the menu’s Middle miniature cañita (draught beer) and Eastern plates – with food this good, tapas at the long bar, or make a meal you’re unlikely to get a dud. The decor of it with two-for-one Cinzano-based leaves much to be desired, but cocktails and raciones to share. Time something keeps pulling the punters Out loves the gambas al ajillo (garlic back; Time Out’s putting its cash on prawns), boquerones (anchovies) and the food and the value. Arab-style jamón serrano (the real deal, imported empanadas, houmous, shish kebab, falafel, kofta, tasty salads and excellent from Spain). An Illy coffee and flan desserts arrive in generous portions; make for the perfect end to any meal, and while years of inflation mean the large or small. The Palermo Hollywood prices might no longer be as rock branch gives plenty of esperanza bottom as they once were, Sarkis (hope) that tapas are here to stay in BA. definitely still represents good value Aguirre 526, entre Malabia y Scalabrini for money. Ortiz, Villa Crespo (2058 8313/www.


Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 63


Recommended Casa Cavia

Originally designed in 1927 by the Norwegian architect Alejandro Chirstophersen, Casa Cavia is now a beautifully restored two-storey town house that includes a restaurant, bar, bookshop and library with a florist and perfumery tagged onto the open courtyard. Opulent and luxurious without being over-the-top, the decoration is a mix of leathers, marble, brass, art deco lighting and restored wooden floors. Star chef Pablo Massey and Inés de los Santos have taken care of food and drink, while leading local perfumery Fueguia (see p96) sells the scents and Flores Pasión looks after the flowers. Cavia 2985, y Castex (4801 9693/www.casacavia.com). Bus 37, 67, 92, 102, 110, 128, 130, 188. Open 8.30am-9.30pm Mon-Fri; 10am9.30pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G5.

esperanzaascurra.com.ar). Subte B, Malabia/bus 15, 24, 55, 106. Open 6.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat; 12.30-3.30pm Sat. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$88. Credit AmEx, V. Map G1. ! Other locations Fitz Roy 1818, Palermo (3533 7122); Unit 15, Vicente López 1661, Recoleta (3533 7122). VENEZUELAN

Arepera The clue’s in the name, kids. Arepera is your cheap and cheerful one-stop shop for tasty Venezuelan arepas. Think of the arepa as Latin America’s answer to the hamburger: a round, cornmeal-based patty stuffed to the crusts with all manner of fabulous fillings. Anything with avocado, marinated chicken, caramelised onion and plantain hits the spot, best washed down with one of the pitchers of fresh juices, like passionfruit, mango, pineapple or bittersweet lemon and sugar cane. Estado de Israel 4316, y Pringles, Almagro (mobile 15 6463 1229). Bus 19, 92. Open 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu,

Sun; 8pm-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses $. No credit cards. Map F2. ! Other location Esmeralda 612, Microcentro (5237 2913).

Belgrano and Colegiales ARGENTINIAN – MODERN

!Astor – Manduque Porteño With its wooden tables, soft lighting and open kitchen, this modern Colegiales bistro might at first seem like it’s been plucked from trendy Shoreditch or Brooklyn. But look a little closer and you’ll discover plenty of local flavour: cookbooks by Argentinian chefs line the shelves underneath the kitchen counter, while mini figurines of pagan saint Gauchito Gil hide behind the rack of olive oils for good luck. Argentinian abstract art brings colour to the white walls and, of course, there’s the name: Astor, as in Piazzolla the tango king, is a nod to the BA of yesteryear, while manduque

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porteño translates as ‘BA grub’. The contemporary Argentinian menu changes weekly according to what’s fresh at the market, but expect it to be playful as chef Antonio Soriano is a fan of conceptual cuisine (on Time Out’s visit, the tasting menu was inspired by the arrival of spring). A nice touch is the home-made bread topped with crystallised salt flakes and served in brown paper bags, as is the maté gourd and kettle brought to every table as an appetiser, filled not with the bitter infusion, but instead a refreshing cocktail. Smiley staff and surprisingly reasonable prices are even more reason to love the place. Ciudad de la Paz 353, y Jorge Newbery, Colegiales (4554 0802/www.astorbistro. com). Bus 39, 41, 60, 63, 168, 194. Open 8.30pm-1am Tue-Sat. Set menu AR$370. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Pura Tierra As its name – ‘pure earth’ – suggests, the focus here is on fresh produce and clever use of the restaurant’s

adobe-mud oven to create the perfect balance of colour, taste and texture. The menu dares to mix sweet and savoury in unusual combinations, for example the mollejas (sweetbreads) are drizzled with molasses and fennel seeds, and for dessert there’s candied squash with turmeric cream, white chocolate, vanilla ice-cream and arrope (Spanish grape syrup). Indecisive diners can opt for an eight-course tasting menu to sample a bit of everything – and every animal, with rabbit, lamb and pork all on the roster. Two tables on the pavement outside are perfect for an intimate dinner, but most people prefer the cosy bare-brick interior. The sweet-toothed will do well to remember that this doubles as one of the city’s finest pastelerías: Kao. 3 de Febrero 1167, entre Avenida Federico Lacroze y Teodoro García, Belgrano (4899 2007/www.puratierra. com.ar). Subte D, Olleros/bus 15, 29, 41, 42, 55, 57, 59, 63, 194. Open 8pm-12.30am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Tasting menus AR$550-$720. Credit AmEx, MC, V.


Open from 8.30pm Mon; 12.30-3.30pm, from 8.30pm Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$120. Credit AmEx, V. V



Alo’s The only downside to this bistro is that it’s not in BA proper – aside from that, Alo’s is a gourmet’s paradise. Chef Alejandro Féraud and his team make just about everything in-house, from the fresh breads and pastas (try the meat-filled triangolini) to the scrumptious ice-cream. Sit at the bar so that you can order the tasting menu and watch the chefs work their magic in the open kitchen. Blanco Encalada 2120, y Julián Navarro, San Isidro (4737 0248/www. alo-s.com.ar). Bus 168. Open 9am-11.30pm Tue-Sat. Main courses $$. Lunch AR$170. No credit cards.

Artemisia (see p59)

!Sucre Fernando Trocca’s restaurant has earned a spot on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list two years in a row, so if you can swing a ringside seat at dramatic, high-ceilinged Sucre, preferably at a high table beside the wide open kitchen, then do. The cuisine is international – Italian, Japanese, Spanish and Peruvian, among others – meaning there are no limits to what the chefs can produce. The exemplary staff is only too happy to talk you through the menu and select a bottle of wine from one of the 350 options, or help you decide on a cocktail from the list of innovative and delicious concoctions. The wonderful parrilla meats are cooked with local firewood, giving them a special, smoky taste. There’s also a fine fish selection, and an extensive tapas and dessert menu to start and finish a meal. Sucre 676, entre Avenida Figueroa Alcorta y Castañeda, Belgrano (4782 9082/www.sucrerestaurant.com.ar). Bus 28, 34, 37, 42, 47, 57, 107, 152. Open 11.30am-4pm, 8pm-midnight Sun-Wed; 11.30am-4pm, 8pm-1am Thu-Sat. Main courses $$$$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. A CHINESE

Hong Kong Style Arguably the best spot for Chinese food in Barrio Chino, if not all of Buenos Aires, this Chinatown hotspot serving dim sum and Cantonese favourites is presided over by chef Lui Cheuk Hung and his wife Lily. Service may be slow, but all the food is ultra fresh and made to order, ensuring customers leave extra happy and with a full belly. Go with a large group so you can try a bit of everything: dumplings, sweet and sour soup, whole fish in oyster sauce and salt and pepper prawns are all must orders.

Montañeses 2149, entre Mendoza y Juramento, Belgrano (4786 3456). Bus 15, 29, 42, 44, 55, 60, 63, 64, 65, 80, 107, 113, 114. Open from 8pm Mon, Tue, Thu; noon-4pm, from 8pm Fri-Sun. Main courses $$. No credit cards. FRENCH

Pipí Cucú Fresh flower petals strewn across crisp white linen tablecloths, oversized vintage artwork and intimate corner tables make this French-style restaurant a romantic spot for couples on date night. Delicate starters include warm, gooey camembert or tender sweetbreads with tomato confit and rocket, but for a heartier meal, go for the delicious pork bondiola with honey cane and cinnamon. Rather skip dinner and just do drinks and dessert? Indulge in the delicious pistachio crème brûlée. Then prop up the bar and make friends with the charming bartender, who will happily craft you a cocktail not found on the menu. Ciudad de la Paz 557, entre Olleros y Maure, Belgrano (4551 9314). Subte D, Olleros/bus 28, 39, 41, 42, 57, 59, 60, 63, 67, 68, 152, 160, 161, 168, 194. Open 12.30pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses $$. No credit cards. PERUVIAN

Contigo Perú Had enough steak already? Then let the technicolour-waistcoated waiters at this cool cantina bring you a short, sharp citric shock in the shape of a plate of ceviche and a brace of pisco sours. The extensive menu has every variety of ceviche, along with a range of seafood mains – including various creations with pulpo (octopus) – and sides such as the delicious papa a la huancaína, a creamy, garlic-laced

66 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

potato dish. Traditional Peruvian desserts include suspiro limeño and passionfruit mousse. Crowded with diners looking to transport themselves to Cuzco, Contigo Perú represents global cuisine at its most splendidly parochial. This spot is great fun – and cheap to boot. Echeverría 1627, y Montañeses, Belgrano (4780 3960/www.contigoperu.com.ar). Bus 15, 29, 42, 44, 55, 60, 63, 64, 65, 113, 114, 118, 130. Open noon-4pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses $. Lunch AR$70. No credit cards. SOUTH-EAST ASIAN

Oporto Almacén A beautiful corner spot with cutting-edge interior design and over 500 wines at store prices make Oporto Almacén a lovely spot for a lazy afternoon lunch, far away from bustling downtown Buenos Aires. Prices are sufficiently affordable to tempt customers to pick generously from the menu, which changes every four months. Time Out shared a chicken salad with poached egg on a bed of watercress and a selection of tapas, all washed down with several glasses of local sauvignon blanc. Add to that crisp and polite service and this spot is well worth the journey from the city centre. 11 de Septiembre 4152, e Irlanda, Núñez (4703 5568). Bus 28, 29, 117. Open noon-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses $$. Lunch $170. Credit AmEx, MC, V.

Lotus Neo Thai Urondo Bar Fans of Thai cuisine will find all Named after Francisco ‘Paco’ Urondo, their favourite dishes here, but with a radical poet who became one of the added bonus of slurping Argentina’s ‘disappeared’ the tom kha soup under during the military the visage of dictatorship, this psychedelic painted off-the-beaten-track Dining out flowers climbing the spot is run by his For food and drink walls. Or opt for a table grandson Javier and suggestions in areas on the candlelit terrace outside of BA, see our nephew Sebastián. The to eat amid real plants, Getting Away section on former mans the flowers and bamboo. kitchen, turning out page 160. Consider the elegant dishes that fuse Lotus cocktail as a starting Argentinian and intense point – a mix of vodka and South-east Asian influences. Start passionfruit, sugar and ice; then go with the copetín, a mixed platter of for the delightful kaeng pehd ped yang – roasted duck and pineapple in cheeses, meat and vegetables. Mains include dishes like ossobuco or grilled a red curry sauce – or the mango lamb served with lentils, fennel and salad if you want something lighter. mint. Sebastián handles the front of Most dishes can be prepared gluten-free upon request, and fans of house and manages one of the best wine lists Time Out has seen in Thai cuisine will really rejoice when Buenos Aires. they find out that Lotus Neo Thai Beauchef 1204, y Estrada, Parque also offers delivery and the Chacabuco (4922 9671). Subte E, occasional cooking class. Moreno/bus 4, 7, 8, 25, 26, 42, 53, Arribeños 2265, entre Olazábal y 134, 135, 180, 195. Open from Mendoza, Belgrano (4783 7993/www. 8.30pm Tue-Sat. Main courses $$. No restaurantelotus.com.ar). Bus 15, 29, 42, 44, 60, 63, 64, 65, 80, 107, 114. credit cards.


Restaurants Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 67

Food and Drink index Restaurants

Butchers Comité Fifí Almacén Gran Dabbang


A Nos Amours Brasserie Petanque Pipí Cucú




Il Ballo Del Mattone Chiuso El Cuartito Cucina Paradiso Filo Fornería Guido’s Bar Guido Restaurant La Locanda Maria Fedele Il Matterello Piola Salgado Alimentos Siamo nel Forno


Fukuro Noodle Bar Osaka Tenkuu Sushi Tô Wasabi’s

Korean Bi Won

La Carnicería (see p42)

Cafés La Alacena Bar Británico Bar Plaza Dorrego Bartola Be Juice La Biela Birkin Coffee Bar Café Crespín Café Tortoni La Crespo El Federal Florencio Full City Coffee House Grand Café In Bocca al Luppo LAB Tostadores de Café Lattente Magendie Malvón Mark’s Deli & Coffee House Meme Mercadito Latino Ninina Bakery Nolita Oui Oui Pain et Vin Le Pain Quotidien Pani Il Posto Mercato Las Violetas Voltaire Yeite

Argentinian – traditional 20 19 19 20 20 20 20 22 19 22 19 20 20 19 20 20 20 21 22 21 22 20 21 22 21 21 21 19 22 22 22 22

Restaurants American

Burger Joint Dean & Dennys Kansas

41 38 60

La Brigada Las Cabras La Cabrera Club del Progreso Cumaná El Desnivel Don Julio La Dorita Gran Parrilla del Plata Las Horas Lo de Jesús Manolo Minga Miramar Miranda El Obrero Pan y Arte Parrilla el Primo Perón Perón El Preferido de Palermo Rietti

Argentinian – modern

Alo’s Aldo’s Vinoteca y Restorán Aramburu Aramburu Bis Astor - Manduque Porteno El Baqueano Café Rivas La Carnicería Casa Cruz Caseros Chochán Crizia Dadá Elena Gran Bar Danzón Le Grill Harturo i Central Market Janio El Mercado

68 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

29 41 41 24 38 29 41 41 29 41 41 29 42 34 42 34 34 60 42 42 42

Moreneta de Montserrat Museo Evita Restaurante NC Freud & Fahler Oporto Almacén La Panadería de Pablo Paraje Arévalo Las Pizarras La Popular Pura Tierra Ralph’s El Refuerzo Roux Sucre Tarquino Tegui Tomo I Uco Urondo Bar


Boteco do Brasil

British Chipper

66 30 34 34 64 30 30 42 44 30 30 44 24 38 38 36 30 36 44 36


Hong Kong Style

Closed-door restaurants Barraco Casa Coupage Casa Felix Casa Saltshaker La Cocina Discreta Cocina Sunae i Latina Jueves a la Mesa Ocho Once Paladar El Tejano Treintasillas


Azema Exotic Bistró Blanch

24 44 44 66 30 46 46 32 64 46 32 38 66 38 46 24 46 66 47


La Fábrica del Taco

Middle Eastern

El Manto Mishiguene Sarkis


Chan Chan La Causa Nikkei Contigo Perú Coya M Bar La Mar Olaya Páru Rawa Sipan

Polish Krakow




South-east Asian

48 48 48 48 48 49 49 49 49 49 49

49 50 50


Green Bamboo Lotus Neo Thai Sudestada


Café San Juan La Esperanza de los Ascurra Oviedo


Arevalito Artemisia Bio Buenos Aires Verde Hierbabuena

Venezuelan Arepera

50 50 52 52 52 32 66 38 52 26 26 52 28 54 54 54 40 28 34 40 62 54 54 36 54 56 28 62 60 56 56 62 28 40 66 28 56 40 56 56 28 56 58 58 59 66 59 32 62 40 59 59 59 59 32 64


Photograph: Podestรก by Ezequiel Poccard





Nightlife index




The stunning wine cellar at Casa de Uco

50 shades of red Sorrel Moseley-Williams explores the varieties giving malbec a run for its money


hile wine quaffers around the world consider Argentina and malbec to be synonymous, local enologists have a much bigger picture in mind. Determined to flex their winemaking muscles and prove there’s more to the world’s fifth-largest wine producer than ever yone’s favourite juicy red, wineries are exposing wine drinkers to other varietals and raising awareness of the countr y’s diverse terroir, which includes both altitudinous Salta and southerly Patagonia. Considerable efforts have already been made to boost the national red wine repertoire. According to Wines of Argentina, Bordeaux native cabernet sauvignon is the country’s third most planted red with 40,000 hectares spanning Mendoza and Salta, while the pinot noir grape native to Burgundy is making slow yet steady progress, particularly in the Patagonian provinces of Río Negro and Neuquén. Throw tannat grown in

Cafayate, tempranillo from Santa Rosa and the Valle de Uco’s cabernet franc into the mix, and Argentina’s portfolio of reds has clearly diversified. Besides focusing on varietals other than malbec, Argentinian winemakers are also aiming to express terroir – the complete natural environment in which wine is produced – and reveal the complexities of key regions, departments and sub-districts through their wares. An international terroir workshop organised by Doña Paula Winery in December 2014, demonstrated that parcels of land located in the same vineyard have different soils, which logically leads to distinct wines – even, remarkably, if it’s the same varietal harvested the same day and produced in an identical fashion.

Argentina’s portfolio of reds has clearly diversified

T-TIME In Cafayate, Salta, El Porvenir de Cafayate successfully produces high-end torrontés and cabernet sauvignon among others, but

70 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

enologist Mariano Quiroga Adamo says one red-wine grape in particular is completely at home in Argentina’s north-western region. ‘Tannat has found its place in Cafayate Valley, and it’s because of the terroir. It scarcely rains in this desert-like valley, the soil is mainly sandy loam, and it’s located 1,650 metres above sea level, meaning the thermal amplitude – which can be a 20ºC difference – between day and night is very important.’ The winemaker, who has the word ‘tannat’ tattooed on his arm, adds, ‘All these elements mean tannat grapes, that originate from southwest France, mature slowly and completely. Tannat doesn’t accept heavy soils with hefty water retention, because that dilutes the grape, its aromas and tannins. ‘In general, Argentinian tannats are fruity with raspberry, prunes, eucalyptus and musk, but Cafayate tannat is enhanced by fig, menthol and a spiced element that’s characteristic to the valley.’ THE G-SPOT The Valle de Uco region has seen a boom in recent years and become something of a buzzword in Mendoza winemaking, with wineries-cum-luxury resorts like the Casa de Uco (see p160) elevating the region’s profile; but it’s more than just hype. Uco departments Tunuyán and San Carlos include sub-districts such as Vista Flores and La Consulta among others, but Zorzal Wines’ star winemaker Matías Michelini and his equally talented brother, Juan Pablo, are in a long-term relationship with Tupungato’s Gualtallary region. Nestled at the foot of Tupungato volcano, Gualtallary’s limestone soil, 1,350 metre altitude and thermal amplitude similar to Cafayate make it ideal grape-growing terroir. And following research conducted by the Michelinis, one red is making a name for itself: cabernet franc. ‘We’ve been making wine for the past ten years in Gualtallary,’ says Matías, ‘and we realised two cepages – malbec and cabernet franc – were standing out at the end of each harvest for their aromatic intensity, character, colour and flavours.’ That’s when the siblings began studying cabernet franc, a French grape usually grown in Bordeaux’s Left Bank and the Loire Valley and parent to cabernet sauvignon, in further detail. He adds, ‘We began to vinify it separately and realised cabernet franc from Gualtallary is able to express its terroir in an incredible way – more so than malbec. It matures slowly in Gualtallary and really shows off the soil’s character, as it’s fresh with good acidity thanks to the high-mineral chalky soils. It’s an austere wine, more similar to a Loire cabernet franc than one grown in Bordeaux.

‘Our plan is to highlight cabernet franc in this young terroir and we’re betting it will be a strong varietal here. While we’re only harvesting three hectares for the time being, we planted seven more hectares in 2014, and we’ll plant another 15 this year.’ SPANISH IMMIGRANT Moving away from French grapes, tempranillo is another European immigrant that has quietly been making a name for itself in Santa Rosa, a region in eastern Mendoza. This prestigious Spanish varietal synonymous with Rioja forms a crucial part of Zuccardi Wines’ portfolio, as winemaker Sebastián Zuccardi explains. ‘My grandfather Alberto Zuccardi planted our first tempranillo vines in 1973, in Santa Rosa, but it was my dad who saw the great potential in this grape’s quality. This varietal likes warm climates and permeable soil and it’s found an optimum terroir in Santa Rosa, which is 620 metres above sea level. By controlling its vigour, reserving its output and harvesting at the right moment, it produces a wine full of personality with ageing potential. ‘My family produced the first 100 percent tempranillo varietal in this country. We’ve been making Zuccardi Q Tempranillo since 1997, and it’s now an emblem for our winery. Even today, we still use grapes from the first vineyard planted by my grandfather, and it’s a vineyard that’s very special for the family, not just because of its emotional value but also because of its age and its plants’ expression.’ With so much investment – both financial and emotional – going into diversifying Argentina’s wine industry, remember to expand your palate and look beyond malbec.

Sommelier’s entry-level picks Amauta Absoluto Tannat 2013, El Porvenir de Cafayate, Cafayate, Salta Fruity, firm yet not overpowering, this tannat is a well-priced, medium-bodied, full-tannin red. AR$85. Desierto 25 Cabernet Franc 2012, Bodega del Desierto, Alto Valle del Río Colorado, La Pampa Aromatic, spicy and aged for nine months in French and American oak, this is an ideal introduction to the ‘other’ cabernet. AR$85. Santa Julia Tempranillo 2014, Bodega Santa Julia, Santa Rosa/ Maipú, Mendoza Fresh red fruits and firm tannins come together in this dependable young red. AR$45.


The basics

Argentina is best known abroad for its red wine, but it doesn’t take long to realise there’s a lot more to the local drinking scene than vino. Portenos’ Italian heritage is often evident in their drinking choices, with Fernet Branca one of the most popular liquors around, though here it’s almost always served with Coca-Cola. It used to be nearly impossible to find a beer besides the national favourite Quilmes, but BA has recently seen an explosion of craft breweries. Beer snobs can find India Pale Ales and Belgian-style brews at Cervecería Nacional (see p76) and newly-opened Tesla (see p74). And finally when it comes to chic cocktail lounges, BA will never be lacking. New to the mix are Shout (see right) and La Princesa (see p78), but old favourites Florería Atlántico (see right) and Victoria Brown (see p80) will never go out of style. HOW TO USE THE LISTINGS This section presents our selection of the city’s best bars. ! denotes a place we particularly recommend. NEW means the bar has opened in the last six months or so. D signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

The Centre BASA Bar Created by the discerning owners of Gran Bar Danzón (see p38), this basement resto-bar is all about moody lighting, comfy sofas and damn fine cocktails. The diverse 25-strong cocktail list, compiled by head barman Ludovico De Biaggi, is guaranteed to hold your attention for the night. Happy hour, from 7pm to 9pm, is the perfect time to sample a classic cocktail rarely seen on BA menus: the Moscow Mule, mixed with house-made ginger beer. In addition to all the classics there are quirky drinks like the Penicillin, designed to be drunk straight from the bottle wrapped in a paper bag, and above average bar food. Basavilbaso 1328, entre Avenida del Libertador y Juncal (4893 9444/www.

basabar.com.ar). Bus 101, 108, 152, 195. Open noon-3.30pm, from 7pm Mon-Fri; from 8pm Sat. Credit MC, V. Map D6. D La Cigale For a touch of Paris in South America, this is a good place to get the night started with the after-work crowd in downtown BA. Happy hour from 6pm to 10pm every day with two-for-one on selected cocktails is a major bonus, but the big deal is the live music. Tuesday nights – known as Minelek – have electronic music spinning over the chatter. If you like a bit of competition with your cocktail, try the monthly Monday night English-language pub quiz (see www.buenosairespubquiz. com for information). 25 de Mayo 597, y Tucumán, Microcentro (4893 2332/www. lacigalebar.blogspot.com). Subte B, Florida/bus 5, 22, 28, 152, 195. Open noon-4pm, from 6pm Mon-Fri; from 9.30pm Sat. Credit V. Map C5. D

!Florería Atlántico And the award for BA’s most original resto-bar goes to… Florería Atlántico, a florist, wine shop and speakeasy rolled into one. Walk in and smell the roses, then head downstairs to the narrow, romantically lit space. Almost everything on the menu is cooked on the vintage 1942 parrilla, imparting that delicious charcoal flavour so typical of Argentina. Inspired by Buenos Aires’s rustic port bars of the 1900s and their immigrant clientele, the drinks menu, devised by co-owner Tato Giovannoni, is divided into countries. Under ‘Poland’ is the signature cocktail Bocharov: Belvedere vodka, rosehip, orange juice and tabasco. Tato’s beautiful wall sketches of mythical sea monsters contrast with sleek, minimalist furniture, making this one of Time Out’s top spots. Arroyo 872, y Suipacha, Retiro (4313 6093). Bus 39, 93, 129, 130, 152, 195. Open 7pm-2am Mon-Wed; 7pm-3am Thu; 7pm-4am Fri; 8pm-3.30am Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6. NEW Shout Brasas & Drinks Don’t be put off by the seedy location – Shout Brasas & Drinks is an elegant new space in Retiro for quality cocktails

Verne Club (see p80)

72 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

and cuisine. Climb the stairs of the French-style mansion and grab a seat at the low-lit bar for a prime view of the open kitchen. Small plates like patacones (twice-fried plantains), pork croquets and sweetbreads are all perfectly executed, as is Shout’s selection of delicious mains. As for the drinks, you might have trouble deciding what to order: the entire wine list is available by the glass and the locally-inspired cocktails are equally tempting. Go for one of the tererés served in a maté, or ask the friendly staff to help you choose. Maipú 981, y Marcelo T de Alvear (4313 2850). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 29, 92, 106, 152, 195. Open from 7pm Mon-Fri; from 8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, V. Map D5. D

San Telmo Doppelgänger ‘This is not for everyone’, Doppelgänger’s wall proudly proclaims, and there’s no point beating around the bush about it – there’s no beer here, no soft drinks, and the only wine you’ll find has been artfully mixed with a variety of spirits. Instead, you’ll find over 100 cocktails made from both classic and exotic liquors. Never tried the saffron-infused Strega? Opt for the Pie-O-My – cardamom flavoured vodka, saké, Strega, orange bitters and lemon peel. As you imbibe, you can graze on tapas or tuck in to a full meal. Or, ask for a Humpty Dumpty and the expert bartenders will fix up a cocktail based on your flavour and liquor preferences. Juan de Garay 500, y Bolívar (4300 0201/www.doppelganger.com.ar). Subte C, San Juan/bus 159, 168, 195. Open 7pm-2am Tue-Thu; 7pm-4am Fri; 8pm-4am Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. Gibraltar This authentic British pub is as much of a favourite with the after-officethree-pints-and-home-to-the-wife crowd as with the multitude of drink-till-youdrop expats and backpackers. It serves up well-priced beer in pint glasses and an exhaustive collection of whiskies. Try the beef and ale pie or the heavenly fish and chips, and you’ll

have to prepare to loosen a belt notch for the Full English Breakfast. The pub is packed on weekends, when it gets louder and louder until, after midnight, it turns into a standing room-only, noisy, flirtatious little hotspot. Happy hour specials are offered from noon to 10pm daily. Perú 895, y Estados Unidos (4362 5310). Bus 9, 70, 86, 159. Open noon-4am daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D Krakow Krakow’s reasonable prices and fun atmosphere help bring many visitors to its doors. Befitting its Polish theme, Krakow’s menu boasts an impressive range of beers and vodkas, and if your favourite cocktail isn’t listed, the friendly staff will happily make it for you. Watch sports on the big screen, play Jenga or Nintendo and sample hearty European dishes like Polish sausage. You’ll have to turn up early if you want to bag one of the comfy sofas, but think twice before attempting a drinking contest with vodka-enthusiast co-owner Tadeusz. For a taste of Polish comfort food, check out Krakow’s newly-opened Palermo restaurant (see p58). Venezuela 474, entre Defensa y Bolívar (4342 3916/www.krakow-cafe.com.ar). Subte E, Belgrano/bus 2, 29, 45. Open 5pm-4am Mon-Fri; 6pm-4am Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D

La Poesía Having been closed since the late 1980s, romantic La Poesía opened again in 2008, under the deft management of the crew from nearby El Federal (see p19). This cosy, warmly-lit café-bar gathers an eclectic clutch of San Telmo regulars and tourists who visit for a coffee and a chat, for the extensive menu of picadas and mains and for the generally pleasant ambience. Chile 502, y Bolívar (4300 7340/www. cafelapoesia.com.ar). Bus 29, 45, 86. Open 8am-2am Mon-Thu, Sun; 8am-4am Fri, Sat. No credit cards. Map B4. D La Puerta Roja La Puerta Roja (‘the red door’, which is all that marks the spot) is a pleasure: a classic, no-nonsense bar. The prices are

Germain and pisco, served up in a martini glass complete with a delicious little green olive. Posadas 1086/88, y Avenida 9 de Julio (4321 1730/www.elenaponyline.com). Bus 17, 60. Open 11am-2am Mon-Fri; 5pm-1am Sat; 5pm-12.30am Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D


Portezuelo One of a long row of bars near the Recoleta cemetery trying to lure the punters in, Portezuelo stands out from the rest because of its reasonable prices and enormous drinks menu, which is so large it requires its own index. Over 600 bottles of spirits are available – many of them international brands – so there really is something for everyone. The food menu is also extensive. Highlights include the brie and caramelised onion bruschetta, the fish of the day with butternut squash mash and the bife de chorizo with creamy potatoes. Some might say you’re spoilt for choice, but the waiters will happily help you choose if it’s all too much. Vicente López 2160, y Azcuénaga (4806 9462/www.portezueloweb.com). Bus 10, 37, 59, 60, 110, 124, 130. Open 6pm-4am Mon-Thu, Sun; 6pm-5.30am Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. D

New in Town Tesla

The owners of Tesla have got hold of some prime Palermo real estate – and they’re certainly not letting it go to waste. Exposed brick walls, warm lighting, pints of artisanal beer and well-priced tapas give the surprisingly expansive bar a cosy feel. As the night wears on though, a DJ livens up the mood, and weekend patrons are likely to stick around until the early hours of the morning. This corner spot opens in the daytime as well, with affordable lunch options and outdoor seating to facilitate Palermo people watching. Gorriti 5801, y Carranza (2053 7857). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111, 151, 168. Open 10.30am-1am Mon-Wed; 10.30am-3am Thu-Sat. No credit cards. Map H2. D

set to attract the youngsters, backpackers and resident foreigners who pack the place out till late. The space is large, the music eclectic, the decor simple and there isn’t a cocktail umbrella in sight. Happy hour on certain spirits and microbrewery beers – try the Kingston stout – lasts all the way from noon to 10pm. The menu features cheap, tasty and filling food such as nachos, hamburgers and spicy chicken wings. Chacabuco 733, entre Chile y Avenida Independencia (4362 5649/www. lapuertaroja.com.ar). Subte E, Independencia/bus 24. Open noon-3am Sun, Mon; noon-5am Tue-Sat. No credit cards. Map B4. D Rubik Tucked away on calle Bolívar in an area more known for smoky parrillas and dusty cafés, Rubik bar has done a fair job attracting a mix of local hipsters and foreigners from the nearby hostels. They come for the pool table, the live footy matches and most of all, for the convivial and friendly atmosphere. A menu featuring pints at AR$40 and American-style comfort food like tacos, nachos, chips and mini-burgers (sliders) ensure a busy bar area. There are no bells and whistles here, this is just a fun, back-to-basics pub. Bolívar 825, y Avenida Independencia (www.rubikba.com). Bus 61, 74, 86. Open 5pm-5am Mon-Fri; 7pm-5am Sat. Credit MC. Map B4.

Será de Dios When you need a direct line to the Holy Spirit, look no further than Será de Dios (Will of God). Perhaps it’s the stained-glass windows or the wall of bottles backlit by fairy lights that’s like an incandescent, boozy shrine, but this place makes you want to seek solace in hard liquor. Two-for-one cocktails until 10pm makes that an easy enough task, and hearty bar grub is a godsend when stamina starts to run low. The Rolling Stones and Stereophonics are the soundtrack to a night of lounging about on devilishly red couches. México 355, entre Defensa y Balcarce (4331 1086). Bus 29, 86, 93, 152. Open noon-4pm Mon; noon-4pm, from 6pm Tue-Fri; from 9pm Sat. No credit cards. Map B5. D

Puerto Madero The Library Lounge One of the city’s hands-down sexiest bars, the Library Lounge at Faena Hotel Buenos Aires (p148) effortlessly meshes the classic (crystal chandeliers, leather sofas) and postmodern (stuffed antelope heads). Befitting the plush setting, cocktails feature the likes of champagne and Grey Goose vodka (and have the prices to match), and during the afternoon there’s English High Tea. Faena Hotel Buenos Aires, Martha Salotti 445, Dique 2, Madero Este

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(4010 9000/www.faena.com). Bus 2, 111, 129. Open 10am-2am daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. D

Recoleta !Milión Almost certainly the most beautiful, graceful bar in Buenos Aires, Milión is over a decade into its reign and still outshining the competition. From your very first sight of the place, the sense of elegance and occasion is dazzling. Happy Hour from 6pm to 9pm is the perfect way to end a hard day’s work on a glamorous note. and it is easy to continue in style on Saturday mornings thanks to Milión’s brunch offerings. Paraná 1048, entre Marcelo T de Alvear y Avenida Santa Fe (4815 9925/www.milion.com.ar). Bus 101, 150. Open 10am-2am Mon-Wed; 10am-3am Thu; 10am-4am Fri; noon-4am Sat; 8pm-2am Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D Pony Line Bar Inspired by polo, the sport of kings, and kitted out in brown leather and riding motifs, the Pony Line Bar feels classy rather than kitsch. Prop yourself up at the bar and choose from an eclectic cocktail menu designed by master mixologist and sommelier Sebastián Maggi. Time Out loves the light-green concoction Descoya, with Absolut Vodka, torrontés wine, San

The Shamrock Loud music, happy hour until midnight and drinks that are excellent value: what more could you want? This Irish bar is very much a BA classic, particularly with the young student crowd. From Thursday to Saturday you should take care to arrive early if you want to grab a bar stool. The pub gets filled to the brim as a pre-drinking spot for Shamrock Basement (see p90), which is conveniently located downstairs. The owner spends his life researching music and it pays off: this place plays some of the best music in Buenos Aires. Rodríguez Peña 1220, entre Arenales y Juncal (4812 3584). Subte D, Callao/ bus 37, 39, 152. Open from 6pm Mon-Fri; from 10pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. D

Palermo Antares Real ale-lovers, rejoice: this place is a haven for beer fans craving a proper pint, and the adventurous who want to try something different. Antares’s mission is to introduce customers to the delights of its various brews, including Scotch ale, honey beer and cream stout. The bar attracts folks of all sorts, from brew connoisseurs to lager louts who don’t care where the beer comes from. The food is mostly hearty Bavarian fare, but also includes tapas, tablas de picadas and main courses cooked using the house beers. Armenia 1447, entre Gorriti y Cabrera (4833 9611/www.cervezaantares.com). Bus 39, 55, 140, 151, 168. Open from 6pm Tue, Fri; from 7pm Mon, Wed, Thu, Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D


Festival Part bar, part restaurant, part art gallery, but 100 percent buena onda, this spot fills a void in the Palermo scene. Arrive before midnight and pop upstairs to see the art exhibitions, then stay until the wee hours of the morning sipping the affordable, but well-crafted cocktails as the guest DJs spin pop and electronic beats. Gorriti 5741, entre Bonpland y Carranza (4775 6733). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111, 140. Open 8pm-2am Tue, Wed; 8pm-3am Thu; 9pm-5am Fri, Sat. No credit cards. Map H2. D


Other locations Bolívar 491, San Telmo (4342 3836); Arévalo 2876, Las Cañitas (4772 2133). The Bangalore Pub & Curry House Think warm woods, soft chairs, ceiling fans and a highly convivial atmosphere, and you’ve some idea of what this colonial-style establishment has to offer. The bar consistently fills to the brim, with crowds of locals and foreigners often spilling outside. That popularity is thanks in no small part to the Bangalore’s generous jugs of gin and tonic, which can be mixed with lavender or ginger syrup. Even on the most crowded night (of which there are many), the cushion-lined nooks upstairs make for a cosy place for a round of pints and subcontinental cuisine. A plate of samosas and the Indian platter – three types of curry and bread – are perfect for sharing. Humboldt 1416, y Niceto Vega (4779 2621). Bus 55, 93, 111, 168. Open 12.30pm-4am daily. Credit MC, V. Map G2. D

!Bar du Marché Neighbouring wine store Siete Spirits (see p107) provides the 50 plus wines available at Bar du Marché, which serves the elixir by the glass, in halfand three-quarter-litre measures and by the bottle, allowing you to try multiple wines in one night without falling off your chair. There are extensive dining options and a sushi bar upstairs, but the best way to appreciate Bar du Marché’s Parisian bistro atmosphere is with the delicious wine and cheese tasting plate – three glasses of wine and three varieties of cheese for AR$165. Nicaragua 5946, entre Arévalo y Ravignani (4778 1050/www. bardumarchepalermo.com). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 39, 57, 60, 93, 111. Open 9.30am-midnight Mon-Sat. Credit MC, V. Map H3. D

Belushi Well-dressed Palermites come in droves to this swanky bar-boliche, hoping to sip on a martini while rubbing shoulders with local celebrities and models. Typically packed out the three nights of the week it’s open, Belushi with its terrace, bar area and space out back makes for the perfect people watching venue. If the martinis and cosmopolitans don’t drain your wallet, the varied food menu is worth a peek, with everything from grilled sweetbread to sushi on offer to satisfy your late-night munchies. Honduras 5333, entre Godoy Cruz y Avenida Juan B Justo (4831 8665/ www.belushi.com.ar). Bus 34, 55, 151, 166, 168. Open from 8pm Thu; from 9pm Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Bernata On a busy corner in Palermo Soho lies elegant Bernata, a dimly-lit tapas bar with exposed brick walls and authentic Spanish dishes scribbled on chalkboards. Start your night with a refreshing Noche de Verano (Martin Millers, tonic, Cinzano Bianco, mandarin orange juice and cucumber), or slip into an intimate corner table for two and tuck into the perfectly executed tapas and mains. Uriarte 1610, y Honduras (4833 5514/ www.bernata.com). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140, 151, 166, 168. Open from 8.30pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D The Bowie Artisanal beers, quality bar food and a daily happy hour make Bowie a welcome addition to the plethora of Palermo Soho nightspots. However, the real pull here is the spectacular terrace that overlooks the rooftops of the barrio – perfect for an evening tipple. Keep your eyes peeled for the opening of the new VIP lounge, which is sure to be good enough for Ziggy Stardust.

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Armenia 1439, entre Gorriti y Cabrera (4833 1141). Bus 39, 55, 57. Open 6pm-2am Mon-Thu; 6pm-4am Fri; 8pm-6am Sat. No credit cards. AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D !Cervecería Nacional Cervecería Nacional packs the plus points into its small, simple interior. It draws a crowd every night it’s open thanks to its quality happy hour deal (two pints for AR$50 between 6.30pm and 8.30pm). On tap are a rubia, roja and IPA on tap and there are also 50 other varieties of bottled beer stacked high on the shelves. Soak up all that booze with a stellar lamb empanada or Tuesday night’s special of bondiola y papas bravas. Arévalo 1588, y Gorriti (4771 3383). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168. Open 6pm-2am Tue, Wed; 6pm-1am Thu-Sat. No credit cards. Map H2. D

Frank’s With one of the strangest entrance policies (you have to first enter a phone booth and mark a secret code) and decor akin to a private gentlemen’s club, this speakeasy is destined to impress. The striking two-storey bar serves up traditional and signature cocktails; the ginger martini and the Sazerac (whisky, angostura bitters, lemon and absinthe) are lovely twists on the classics. As for the decor, money seems to have been no object, with booths and menus all covered in soft leather. And if you’re interested in nursing more than one drink all night, hopefully money is no object for you either. Consult Facebook or Twitter for the not so secret code. Arévalo 1445, y Niceto Vega (4777 6541/www.franks-bar.com). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168. Open 9pm-4am Wed-Sat. Credit AmEx, V. Map H2. D Isabel In Isabel’s dramatic interior, musicians, actors and model types sip gimlets and mai tais, and do a sterling job of looking like they’re each starring in their own perfume advert. Quality trumps quantity on the sushi menu – and out back, a fire-lit patio adds to the sensual experience. Cocktails start at AR$95, but are absolutely worth it. Don’t overdo it though, or you’ll end up lost in the hall-of-mirrors bathroom. Uriarte 1664, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4834 6969/www.isabelbar. com). Bus 34, 39, 166. Open 7.30pm-2.30am Tue, Wed; 9pm-5am Thu-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D

Ferona Club Social Set in a gorgeous house, complete with winding staircase and rooftop terrace, BA’s place to see and be seen (and simply have fun) is just Leitmotiv as attractive as the Una cerveza, por favor What more could you people that frequent it. Most beer in Argentina is want in a bar than a The secret formula? sold by the litre. For a bunch of hot hipster small bottle, ask for a Excellent music, tasteful decor (including vintage porrón. For draught beer, chicks in retro dresses carrying around order a pinta or radios) and easily the hand-held blow torches to chopp. best caipiroskas in the city. light unique hand-crafted drinks? On warmer nights, sip cocktails Head up to the rooftop bar, tell the under the stars, but as the evening bartender what you want, and have turns into morning, the living room downstairs is the place to be: the music her make you a refreshing concoction, gets louder, the crowd gets merrier and like the #889: Príncipe de los Apóstoles gin (locally-made the pretty people start dancing. Be Argentinian gin infused with yerba prepared to queue at the weekends. mate), Hesperidina, lime juice, tonic, Address provided at time of booking orange oil and rosemary smoke. (mobile 15 6722 6784). Bus 39, 140, Cabrera 5696, y Bonpland (4777 151, 166. Open Restaurant 9.3010.30pm Wed-Sat with reservation. Bar 0743). Bus 39, 93. Open from 7pm Wed-Sat; 6-11pm Sun. No credit 12.30-5am Wed-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. cards. Map H2. D



is the son of Uruguay’s best-known artist, Carlos Páez Vilaró. Gorriti 5176, entre Thames y Uriarte (2068 5220). Bus 39, 55, 140, 168. Open from 8pm Tue-Sat. No credit cards. Map G2. D


Río Café This resto-bar’s interior is all sumptuous brown leather, armchairs and floor-to-ceiling mirrors: think sultry 1940s saloon updated for the young and chic. At the bar the menu is, for the most part, adventurous but sophisticated, with twists on classic cocktails like the Cherry Collins. And instead of the Argentinian favourite mix of fernet and Coke, you’ll find a Chic Fernet – fernet, orange juice, fresh thyme and tonic. Come Wednesday night, Rocking Rio (www.facebook. com/rockingrioba) is the place to be. BA’s most beautiful turn out for the weekly event to listen to DJs and sip cocktails on the leafy patio. Honduras 4772, entre Malabia y Armenia (4832 2318/www.riocafe.com. ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 151, 168. Open 11am-4am Tue-Thu; 11am-5am Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D La Princesa

!M Salumería Right next door to M Bar (see p56), this cosy bar-cum-café-cum-shop is packed with the finer things in life: wines from Italy, Argentina and other parts of South America, aperitifs, high-quality pastas, olives and pastries. Wine tastings of roughly six vinos are led by sommelier Mariana Torta on Fridays at 6.30pm (AR$200$350). Also consider trying the selection of tasty cheeses and the salami that hangs enticingly from the bar. Large groups should enquire about personalised after-hours events. El Salvador 5777, y Carranza (4778 0655). Bus 39, 57, 93, 140, 166, 168. Open 12.30-4pm Mon; 12.30-9.30pm Tue, Wed; 12.30-11.30pm Thu-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D Magdalena’s Party Magdalena’s Party is the primary watering hole of English-speaking expats. It’s not only the two-for-one drink specials and chance to use their mother tongue that keeps them coming though; the menu serves American classics like burritos, onion rings and nachos just the way gringos like them (they even have ‘real’ bacon here). Sunday morning sees brunch specials and jugs of mimosas going out to every table. DJs spin indie and hip hop tunes from Thursday to Saturday, with happy hour specials running from noon to midnight. Thames 1795, y Costa Rica (4833 9127/www.magdalenasparty.com). Bus 39, 55, 57. Open 11am-2am Tue, Wed; 11am-4am Thu, Fri; noon-4am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. No credit cards. Map G3. D

!Mundo Bizarro An institution since 1997, Mundo Bizarro is one of BA’s all-time great

hedonistic, rocking hotspots with a sharp red and black interior and over 50 expertly crafted cocktails. Drink specials change monthly, with both classic cocktails and original concoctions on rotation. As for the food, a selection of Tex-Mex fare is served. Occasional deals are offered earlier on, but the place doesn’t really heat up until after 1am. From then on it’s a heady mix of music and sociable people with plenty of rock style. Serrano 1222, y Avenida Córdoba (4773 1967). Bus 15, 39, 55, 140, 151, 168. Open 8pm-3am Mon-Wed; 8pm-4am Thu; 8pm-5am Fri, Sat. No credit cards. Map G2. D

sound confusing, but the owners of Patio de Vinos are from Mendoza, meaning you’re in good hands when it comes to wine. Purchase a bottle from the vinoteca at the entrance to drink in the ivycovered, secret garden-like patio in the back, or opt for a glass of wine accompanied by a cheese platter. If you’ve had a busy day pillaging the shops of Palermo Soho, Patio de Vinos is the perfect oasis to settle down with a glass of wine and a light meal. Armenia 1764, entre El Salvador y Costa Rica (mobile 15 5123 3074). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140, 151, 168. Open noon-8pm Sun-Thu; noon-midnight Fri, Sat. Credit V. Map G3. D

!NOLA Gastropub New Orleanian Liza Puglia and her porteño boyfriend Francisco ‘Ticol’ Terren have brought the best of their closed-door restaurant – home-brewed artisan beer and Cajun chicken with a Mexican twist – to the happy punters at this happening little hotspot in Palermo Viejo. Kicks come in the form of the explosively spicy gumbo, juicy fried chicken and coleslaw, and Terren’s intense, yet balanced brews. Add Puglia’s picante sauces and the rustic yet funky interior and it’s no wonder this place is bursting at the seams most nights. Be sure to drop in for happy hour from 5pm to 8pm for AR$30 pints and keep an eye on the Facebook page for news of pop-up events. Gorriti 4389, y Julián Álvarez (mobile 15 5348 4509/www.nolabuenosaires. com). Bus 15, 39, 99, 110, 168. Open 6pm-midnight Mon, Wed-Sun. No credit cards. Map F2. D

NEW La Princesa Fresh from a head-to-toe renovation, the sprawling La Princesa is for those who like a bit of glitz and glam with their cocktails. As its name implies, this resto-bar in the heart of Palermo Soho is filled with a well-heeled and trendy crowd. An extensive drink menu includes tropical-inspired cocktails and a DJ plays deep house and rock and pop hits. Thursdays and Fridays draw a party-hungry crowd while the rest of the week is a more chilled-out affair. Honduras 4756, entre Armenia y Malabia (4832 5375). Bus 39, 140, 151, 168. Open 6pm-3am Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D

NEW Patio de Vinos What was formerly bikini shop and café Coco Marie is now a wine store, artisan ceramic shop and wine bar. That may

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Rey de Copas Pass through the tiled dining room and pretty patio and you’ll discover a bar like no other in the city. Hitting the ethno-chic nail firmly on the head, this romantically lit, cavernous space is decorated with a mishmash of antique pieces: Tibetan masks, Venetian marionettes and 19th-century French tiles all look like they belong together. It’s hardly any wonder this place oozes style – the owner

Ser y Tiempo ‘Life is too short to drink bad wines’ declares the chalkboard at this Palermo wine bar. Fortunately, Ser y Tiempo doesn’t waste any time serving less than fantastic vinos. Better yet, every Wednesday the bar invites a top vineyard to host a tasting; AR$100 gets you four samplings, hors d’oeuvres and an education on colour, smell and terroir. Gorriti 5910, y Ravignani. (4774 3958/www.serytiempo.com.ar). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168. Open 11am-1am daily. Credit MC, V. Map H2. D The Shanghai Dragon The people behind BA’s most popular pubs – the Bangalore (see p76) and Gibraltar (see p72) – have done it again, this time on a quiet residential Palermo street, and with a Chinese twist. Blood-red walls, carpeted floors, lots of beer on tap and good value Chinese grub make The Shanghai Dragon a down-to-earth hangout for those sick of Palermo ponce. Large plates of Chinese food make a decent meal or two, and at a price that justifies buying another round of pints. There’s no pretension here: in authentic pub style, it’s just decent indie and reggae tunes and plenty of buena onda. Aráoz 1199, y Mason (4778 1053). Bus 39, 110. Open noon-3am daily. Credit MC, V. Map G2. D Soria Soria is a favourite thanks to its combination of haven-like garden setting, mood lighting, on-the-beat music and friendly staff who ensure this unpretentious watering hole feels as laid-back as your friend’s backyard. The finger-licking calamares go down nicely with the reasonably priced drinks, as up-and-coming DJs spin their stuff for a crowd of dapper twentysomethings.


Costa Rica 4827, y Jorge Luis Borges (4831 0831/www.victoriabrownbar. com). Bus 34, 36, 39, 57. Open 8pm-4am Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D

Five malbecs under AR$100 Lamadrid Single Vineyard Malbec 2012, Bodega Lamadrid, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza This malbec features the classic deep red with violet hues typical to the variety. Heady plum and sweet cherry are backed up by floral aromas of violet, which reappear in the mouth. AR$90. Lassia Malbec 2013, Bodega Patritti, San Patricio del Chañar, Neuquén A jammy nose with a tart cranberry edge is evident in this great Patagonian number. Plum and cherry reign in the mouth, along with well-rounded tannins and an earth and cedar finish. AR$83. Ramanegra Estate Malbec 2013, Bodega Casarena, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza Nine months in French oak give this frank wine a minerality as well as vanilla notes. The fusion of ripe red fruit and forest fruits, such as plum, cherry and blackberry make this the most complex of these five malbecs. AR$95. TintoNegro Malbec 2013, Bodega TintoNegro, Luján de Cuyo/Maipú, Mendoza Fresh red fruit dominates this young and jaunty bottle, aged for six months in French oak. Notes of cherry and plum mingle with a green hint of sour cherry, while violet resonates in the nose. AR$72. Trapiche Reserva Malbec 2013, Bodega Trapiche, Agrelo/Maipú, Mendoza Ripe plum with a cherry nose, and spiced hints of cinnamon and nutmeg are found in this good value wine. The flavour is intense with marked acidity and tannins. AR$60. Gorriti 5151, entre Thames y Uriarte (4832 1745). Bus 39, 151, 168. Open from 8pm Tue-Thu; from 9pm Fri, Sat. No credit cards. Map G2. D The Steve For its central Palermo location, The Steve has achieved the unthinkable. It’s trendy yet welcoming, has a range of

affordable, delicious drinks and – aside from the imposing exterior – is entirely unpretentious. The friendly service and stylish, vintage touches add to the appeal, and the jugs and half-pint tankards of gin and tonic, margarita and Campari don’t hurt either. Chat on the leafy patio, make friends at the communal table or sit back in an intimate booth admiring the hipsters around you. As the bar’s namesake Steve McQueen would surely agree: The Steve really is the King of Cool. El Salvador 4968, y Thames (mobile 15 6688 3655). Bus 39, 55, 140, 151, 168. Open 6pm-1am Mon-Wed; 6pm-3am Thu-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Verne Club Master mixologist and owner Fede Cuco drew his inspiration from Jules Verne for this retro-fabulous Palermo bar. The menu itself is a trip around the world, with a section dedicated to drinks inspired by all the cities Phileas Fogg visited, like the Jazmín Blanco from Bombay (honey, lemon, cardamom, gin and jasmine tea) and the London-inspired Breakfast Martini (gin, cointreau, lemon and marmalade). You’d never guess from the elegant interior that hot dogs were on the menu, but El Camino de Francia, with caramelised onion, goat’s cheese and mustard mayo is tastier than any hot dog ought to be. Medrano 1475, y Costa Rica (4822 0980). Bus 39, 92, 111, 141, 160. Open from 8pm Mon, Wed-Sat; from 9pm Tue, Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4. D !Victoria Brown Only those in the loop will know to skip Victoria Brown’s café and head straight to the bar, the entrance to which is camouflaged by a brick wall. Once inside, you’ll find an extravaganza of industrial chic and steampunk decor, dotted with portraits of none other than Queen Victoria. The menu presents some rather complex concoctions – a flavour compass is included, labeling drinks as herbal and dry, delicate and refreshing or strong and seductive – but the cocktails are served in refreshingly simple and elegant glasses. Book ahead if you plan to eat and, no matter the occasion, dress to impress.

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Wherever Bar This welcoming pub just off Avenida Santa Fe is an oasis of calm in the early evening. Here, whiskey is the spirit of choice. The 140 bottles range from the aged (and pricey) Macallan to more affordable classics like Jameson. Non-whiskey drinkers can still take advantage of the drink promotions from 6pm to 8pm Monday to Friday, which include a variety of cocktails, and the tapas menu is sure to please everyone, no matter their poison. Santamaría de Oro 2476, y Avenida Santa Fe (4777 8029). Subte D, Palermo/bus 10, 12, 15, 29, 34. Open from 6pm Mon-Fri; from 8pm Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, V. Map G4. D

Las Cañitas NEW Chupitos The name says it all: Chupitos, meaning ‘shots’, is a grungy little haven for study abroad students and backpackers looking to meet like-minded revellers. The new bar in Las Cañitas has all the favourites from the Palermo joints, and between the spicy Pinche Cabrón and flaming Harry Potter vodka shots you’re sure to have a night to remember (or not). Beer pong also keeps the ball rolling and for hungry punters, the Palermo Hollywood location sells fast food. Arévalo 2863, y Baez (4774 3390). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 10, 15. Open 8pm-3am Tue-Thu; 10pm-5am Fri, Sat. Credit MC, V. Map H4. D Other locations Gorriti 5033, Palermo (4831 9690); Bonpland 1670, Palermo (4775 1041).

Almagro and Villa Crespo 878 Often listed by local bartenders as their favourite cocktail bar, 878 retains its legendary status as one of the city’s top drinking holes. Ring the bell at the unmarked door and you’ll be shown into a slick, low-lit space – a call back to its earlier days as a speakeasy. As it’s no longer as clandestino as it used to be (Fridays and Saturdays are packed) pop in earlier during the week for a more casual drink and dinner. Stellar cocktails and atmosphere have helped this bar into the ranks of many a night owl’s top ten. Thames 878, entre Loyola y Aguirre, Villa Crespo (4773 1098/www.878bar. com.ar). Bus 55. Open from 7pm Mon-Fri; from 8pm Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D

Guarda la Vieja This local Almagro hotspot fills at the weekend with actors performing in the nearby theatres and an arty twenty- to thirtysomething crowd. The exposed brickwork is complimented by

colourful canvases painted by local artists and projections of reggae videos in the background. But what calls for the most attention here is the tasty, affordable food: the meat empanadas are a speciality, as are the picadas. A play on the name of the street on which it is located, ‘Guarda la Vieja’ means ‘beware of the old woman’, but there’s nothing to be afraid of here. Billinghurst 699, y Guardia Vieja, Almagro (4863 7923). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 92, 128. Open from 6pm daily. No credit cards. Map F2. D Lo de Roberto Step back in time to the BA of yesteryear in this historic bar on a far-flung corner of Plaza Almagro. It’s the former watering hole of Carlos Gardel, but the star here nowadays is 83-year-old Osvaldo Peredo, a faded tango singer who is enjoying a renaissance among a devoted crowd of young people. A bullet hole in the front window and an ancient manual cash register provide the perfect backdrop for Peredo’s crude, lunfardo-laced tangos that are lapped up by fernet-and-Coke-sipping university students. Other equally impassioned crooners perform on other nights, from around 11.30pm. Bulnes 331, y Perón, Almagro. Subte B, Medrano/bus 124, 160, 168. Open 6pm-3am Tue-Fri; 10pm-3am Sat. No credit cards. Map E2. Sr Duncan Something magical happens when you enter Sr Duncan. Ring the bell on the unsigned door, then glide up the staircase to an art nouveau mansion replete with high ceilings and stained-glass windows. A swing jazz band could be playing in one corner, a maestro might be tinkling on the grand piano or a couple might be dancing tango. You might think you’ve been transported to another era, especially when you see the food and drink prices, which are nice change from Palermo’s inflated price tags. Check Sr Duncan’s Facebook page for the packed schedule of events. Avenida Rivadavia 3832, y Salguero, Almagro (4958 3633). Subte A, Castro Barros/bus 8. Open 7pm-5am Mon-Sat. No credit cards. Map E1. D

Belgrano Puerta Uno Knock a few times on the discreet black door off Belgrano’s Chinatown, and you might think you were in the wrong place. But once inside, the loud music, dim lighting and open-air patios make this secret nightspot a thoroughly buzzing venue. The drinks menu glitters with original touches like the Cucumber Collins and the Absolut Red Hot, while food options include pizzas and picadas. The secret’s out, however, so be sure to make a reservation. Juramento 1667, y Montañeses (4706 1522/www.puertauno.com). Bus 15, 80, 130. Open 7.30pm-4.30am Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. D

Bars Time Out Insiders´ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 81

The six types of clubbers you’ll meet in BA Clubs The guy on the dancefloor scouring the room for his next prey is seen the world over, but the Argentinian chamuyero is something special. His way with words is nothing short of outstanding, and he is an expert at persuading any female within earshot to accompany him to the nearest sex hotel. The Chamuyero can be hard to spot; with his designer shirt and winning smile, he looks like any typical porteño. But never fear, he will reveal himself sooner or later via a charming one-liner or a declaration of (fake) commitment. Can be spotted by No need to keep an eye out. If you’re female and have a pulse, he’ll definitely spot you first. Tipple of choice Quilmes Night. Most likely to say ‘No soy chamuyero.’ (I’m not a chamuyero).

The IndIe GIrl

Her vintage dress accessorised with an array of items of no use in a club (think sunglasses, a trilby hat, a ukulele or giant headphones), the Indie Girl lurks on the edge of the dancefloor raising her eyebrows at the crowd. Only two things can break her trance: a song she deems cool enough to dance to, or the appearance of the Indie Boy. The Indie Boy is a skinny jean-wearing specimen who has perfected the art of ironic facial hair topiary and wears a vest so low he’s flashing his chest hair. The night inevitably ends with Indie Boy locking limbs with Indie Girl, before inviting her back to his place to ‘listen to records’. Can be spotted by Her tattoos, fringe and red lipstick. Tipple of choice Gin and tonic. Most likely to say Nothing. Speaking is for losers. 82 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

Rosie Hilder decodes the city’s clubbing personalities. Illustrations by Gustavo Guevara

A close-knit group that dance around a pile of handbags, the Gaggle are hostile to anyone who tries to infiltrate their circle. Intruders will have a camera thrust in their hand as the group grin to shouts of ‘¡Whisky!’ (The Argentinian version of ‘Cheese!’). The Gaggle also enjoy synchronised dancing to cumbia hits and going to the bathroom in threes. Should one of the pack desert the group with a potential mate, the Gaggle will either cheer and whoop, or turn their backs on the traitor who ruined the girls’ night out. Can be spotted by A wall of short skirts. Tipple of choice Fernet and Coke. Most likely to say ‘¡FOTO!’

The Hardcore Partier just cannot get enough of that beat. His enthusiasm is aided by a chemical substance he snuck into the club in his shoes, and when he’s not in the toilet queuing for a cubicle, he can be found near the DJ stand pumping his fists in the air. Come 4am, a space has cleared around him (his bare sweaty chest and loss of limb control are not appreciated by the masses) and he has forgotten who and where he is. As the sun and the club’s lights come up, he staggers in the direction of the after party, attempting to high five anyone who crosses his path. Can be spotted by His glow sticks. Tipple of choice Copious amounts of water. Most likely to say ‘¡Temazo!’ (Tune!).

The Backpacker has to battle the bouncer to get through the door due to his flip-flops, scruffy shirt and holey jeans, and is annoyed that his new hostel friend, the Female Backpacker, has no such issues. Having spent the last six months living in a hut in the Amazon, he is dazed by the bright lights of BA’s clubs. Luckily, his travelling experience has rendered him an expert at adapting to his surroundings. Just minutes after entering any boliche, he can be found downing the largest, cheapest drink available and attempting to (unsuccessfully) copy the locals’ dance moves. Can be spotted by The grubby friendship bracelets adorning his wrists. Tipple of choice A bucket of the cheapest thing on the menu. Most likely to say ‘Oh, man, this is awesome! It’s just like that time I was in (insert backpacker destination)!’

Armed with killer heels, her own cloud of perfume and a miniscule handbag, the Porteña Lookeada wants to see and be seen. She tries to blag her way into the VIP area by chatting up the bouncer and loiters at the bar in the hope that either the Chamuyero or the Backpacker will buy her a drink. With her pink glittery phone always in hand, she uses Tinder to facilitate her quest for men in the vicinity. Every half an hour she retreats to the bathroom to redo her lip gloss, readjust her cleavage and take a selfie in the mirror. Can be spotted by Her dance moves. She can’t move much in her heels, so she positions her limbs in various poses that would look good on Instagram. Tipple of choice Champagne and Speed (Argentina’s answer to Red Bull) sipped through a straw. Most likely to say ‘Sorry, ¡pero no!’


The scene

As Buenos Aires’s clubs don’t really get going till 3am, you’ll have to adjust your body clock to really make the most of the scene. For the full experience, take an early disco nap, then head to a bar (see page 70 for our listings) for pre-party drinks before hitting the clubs. It doesn’t all end when the lights come up either, BA’s afters go on way past dawn. Solo travellers can learn how to meet fellow partiers with our tips on page p88, and you can discover which clubbers to look out for (or avoid) with our feature on the city’s most common clubbing characters on page 82. BA’s nightlife scene is one of the few places where ladies have the upper hand, at least when it comes to prices. Many clubs offer women discounted entry or do away with the cover charge altogether. Gender aside, cheapskates can usually dodge paying the club entry fee by getting on the guest list. Some nightclubs offer a list by way of email or Facebook, while for others you may have to snag a wristband from lurking promoters. You can gain free entrance to Tuesday’s popular Hype night at Kika (see p87) by picking up a wristband from gringo hangout Magdalena’s Party (see p78) between 10pm and 2am. Whether you’re planning to party every night of the week, or are just looking for some occasional fun, check the weekly clubbing guide (see p86), as

well as websites www.buenosaliens. com and www.nightclubber.com.ar to find out what’s on, when. Still don’t know what kind of night you’re after? Undecided clubgoers can hang around Avenida Juan B Justo and calle Honduras in Palermo, where you’ll find megaclubs like Liv (see p87), Rosebar (Honduras 5445) and Wanna (Avenida Juan B Justo 1636). From Thursday’s outlandish extravaganza at Niceto Club’s (see p88) Club 69, to upscale spots like Jet (see p87), there’s a fiesta every night of the week for every type of party animal in this city.

Venues !Alsina The cathedral-like Alsina is the talk of electro partyland these days, thanks to the hi-fi sound and consistently strong line-up of international names (Gui Boratto, Richie Hawtin, Fedde Legrande, Gareth Emery and Calvin Harris to name a few), which ensures that the 1,500-head capacity is often reached early on in the night. Electro party State takes place once a month on a Friday – check the website to find out when the next one will be. Sunday’s Club One attracts an experienced party-hard crowd and is pumping by 10pm. The second level balcony offers a nice vantage point for spying on (and momentarily escaping from) the pulsing mob below.

Adolfo Alsina 940, entre Bernardo de Irigoyen y Tacuarí, Monserrat (4331 3231/www.statebsas.com.ar). Subte A, Piedras/bus 10, 17, 59, 70, 86, 91, 98, 129. Open midnight-7am monthly on Fri; 8pm-3am Sun. Map C4. Asia de Cuba Wednesday’s Glamour Night is the main event at this swish waterfront resto-club, where a fashionable crowd descends for the electronic music and stays late. The club packs in executives and tourists from swanky nearby hotels drawn to the sushi, decent (if pricey) drinks, deep house and, on Saturdays, live music. Dress to impress and get ready to splash out. Admission costs AR$150 and includes a drink. Pierina Dealessi 750, y Macacha Güemes, Puerto Madero Este (4894 1328/www.asiadecuba.com.ar). Bus 4, 20, 111, 130, 152, 195. Open Restaurant 12.30pm-6am Wed-Sat. Club 1-6am Wed-Sat. Map B5.

Lavalle 345, entre Reconquista y 25 de Mayo, Microcentro (4314 8886/www. bahreinba.com). Subte B, LN Alem/bus 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 17, 28, 93. Open from midnight Fri, Sat. Map C5. La Capilla This spectacular former church in Microcentro hosts some of the liveliest parties in the city. Friday’s Fiesta de la Flor combines local reggae bands with dancehall and ska beats, while Saturdays vary between rock nacional and acid house nights from the Psyrockers Crew. Arrive before 1am on Friday nights for free entry to Fiesta de la Flor. Suipacha 842, entre Avenida Córdoba y Paraguay, Microcentro (mobile 15 5114 6481). Subte C, San Martín/bus 5, 6, 10, 17, 26, 39, 59, 60, 106, 109, 140, 180. Open from 9pm Fri, Sat. Map D5.

Club Aráoz With a space big enough to hold over 1,000 Bahrein VIP Clubbing clubgoers, five bars under Many clubs offer VIP its roof, and plasma and Swish Bahrein is party tables; check their central for electro-heads, LED TVs throughout the Facebook pages for entire venue, it’s safe to with the basement of this details. grand former bank say that Club Aráoz can pumping out all manner of handle whatever gets thrown house, techno and electronic beats its way. Despite the huge capacity, at the weekends. Saturdays usually there’s nothing to say the multi-tiered play host to an international DJ and see club won’t fill up quickly with trendy attendees flit between the glam Funky young clubbers clamouring to get down to the latest Latin, reggaeton and Room and the basement, where the dance hits. The party-hungry crowd party-hungry energy is concentrated.


Club 69 at Niceto Club (see p88)

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Weekly agenda Monday at Club Severino

Electro beats, pop and hip hop favourites, and a dancefloor packed with hostel hotties and pretty porteños: start off your BA week with a bang. See below.

Tuesday at Kika

Party with an international crowd who let their hair down to drum ’n’ bass, dubstep, rock, hip hop and electro at Kika’s popular Hype night. See p87.

Wednesday at Fiesta Jolie


A feast for all the senses, this fiesta has free ice-cream, pizza, tarot card readings and karaoke. What began as a lesbian and bi night is now aimed at those who ‘don’t need labels’. See p131.

Thursday at Niceto Club and M.O.D Electro mash-ups and a cabaret freak show make Niceto’s Club 69 a night of unbridled fun and debauchery, while M.O.D has a happening hip hop night full of funky movers. See p88.

Friday at Crobar

Local and foreign DJs spin pure techno and a photogenic, partyhard crowd ushers in the weekend with full force at Crobar’s Be Techno night. See p87.

Saturday at Pacha

The best DJs make their way to Pacha every Saturday, when the huge club pumps with house beats. See p88.

Sunday at Alsina

Expect euphoric hedonism at Club One in the form of hard house, exotic dancers and ecstatic partygoers bathing in balloons and confetti. See p84.

Lavalle 345, entre Reconquista y 25 de Mayo, Microcentro (4314 8886/www. clubseverino.com.ar). Subte B, LN Alem/bus 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 17, 28, 93, 140, 146. Open 11.45pm-6am Mon. Map C4. The Roxy Live (see p88)

gets going as early as 11.30pm (which is indeed quite early for BA), but the fashionably late ladies can still get in cover-free until 3am, and gents until 2.30am. Aráoz 2424, entre Güemes y Avenida Santa Fe, Palermo (4832 9751/www. clubaraoz.com.ar). Subte D, Scalabrini Ortíz/bus 12, 15, 29, 36, 39, 57, 64, 69, 110, 111, 141, 152, 160, 188. Open from 1am Fri; from 11pm Sat. Map F4. Club Museum This San Telmo club began life as Club Museum, switched to Boutique and is now back to its original incarnation. Gustave Eiffel, yes, that Gustave Eiffel of a certain French tower, designed the building in 1894, when it was originally

intended to be an agricultural showroom. There’s no agriculture these days, but the venue still has beautiful original details. While the impressive windows and stunning façade suggest an evening at the opera, parties at Club Museum are populated by champagne sipping Don Giovannis looking for love to the sound of Latino hits and cumbia remixes. If you’re looking to start the evening off slowly, head over for dinner and a live show before the tables are cleared and a night at the Museum brings nocturnal creatures to life. Perú 535, y Venezuela, San Telmo (4781 7061/www.clubmuseum.com.ar). Subte E, Belgrano/bus 2, 8, 24, 29, 126, 152, 159, 195. Open Restaurant from 10pm Fri, Sat. Club from 1am Fri, Sat. Map B4.

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Club Severino While the rest of Buenos Aires is slumbering Monday nights away, the city’s carefree party crowd is dancing it up at Club Severino at Bahrein (see p84). The club night features rock, pop and hip hop hits as well as electro and techno beats spun by a line-up of some of the city’s top DJs. Check the website for themed parties as well as live rock and hip hop acts. Get in for free by signing up for the online guest list before 1am (AR$60 afterwards), sip a Fernet and Coke, then start making eyes at smooth porteños keen to have an international experience. Around a thousand punters make Club Severino their party of choice after Monday night’s Bomba de Tiempo (see p135), and for good reason.

Cocoliche The biggest name in Buenos Aires’s underground night scene is über-cool Cocoliche, a favourite with young local punters and party-hardy foreigners who take their electro very seriously. Minimal house and drum ’n’ bass pound the good-natured crowd to a trance-like pulp in the crammed, airless basement while happy boozers line the street-level bar. The rotating programme features the beatmaster owners in the box and serious international names that draw in a sizeable crowd. Avenida Rivadavia 878, entre Suipacha y Esmeralda, Microcentro (www. facebook.com/Cocoliche). Subte A, Piedras/bus 5, 7, 8, 9, 24, 59, 60, 64, 67, 100, 105, 126, 129. Open from midnight Fri, Sat. Map C4.

Gong Gong has long been on the radar as a hangout for local teens: the central location, cheap booze and no-frills beats make for some good times romping around, but perhaps not the BA night out of your wildest dreams. However, thanks to the fab Dengue Dancing, the downtown boliche buzzes on Thursday nights with fun-loving gay kids. DJs get this underground electronic party going and the crowd working up a sweat. The mood shifts on Friday and Saturday nights, which generally attract an older crowd looking to relive their youth with some serious headbanging to rock music from the 1980s and 1990s. Avenida Córdoba 634, entre Florida y Maipú, Microcentro (4322 0680/www. facebook.com/gongdiscosenior). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 17, 22, 93, 111, 152, 180, 195. Open from 11.30pm Thu-Sat. Map C5.

the go-to club on Tuesday nights. Dubbed Hype (www.hype-ba.com), Tuesday’s event attracts a mix of party-hard locals and foreigners who come to dance to hip hop, electro, drum ’n’ bass and a little bit of dubstep and indie rock. Even for those who aren’t in-the-know, Kika’s black and white paint splattered walls and the constant throng of clubbers waiting outside its doors make it fairly clear that something fun is brewing inside. The partying continues on Wednesdays, as a substantial crowd of porteños regularly chooses to end after-office evenings at the club in order to enjoy its biggest electro music night. Come the weekend, DJs reel in large crowds who love to dance to cachengue beats in the front room, while the latest house beats boom across the back dancefloor. Honduras 5339, entre Avenida Juan B Justo y Godoy Cruz, Palermo (4137 5311/www.kikaclub.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 55, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168. Open 1-6am Tue-Sun. Map G2.


Crobar Friday-night crowds hoof it to this superclub’s thumping night of debauchery Be Techno, which brings in international and local bands, a first-rate crew of DJs mixing techno and house tunes, as well as a rollicking bunch of global party people. Dress is flirty and sporty; come with money to spare to cover the hefty entrance fee and to purchase some pricey sauce. Saturday nights see a mix of clubbers, with cumbia and reggaeton fans turning out for Keek in the main room, while the small room hosts Rheo (see p132), a gay-friendly electro party. Marcelino Freyre e Infanta Isabel, Paseo de la Infanta, Palermo (4778 1500/www.crobar.com). Bus 10, 33, 34. Open from midnight Fri, Sat. Map G5.

Levitar Right in the heart of Palermo, Levitar is a convenient and popular option after hitting up one of the larger, nearby spots. The spacious indooroutdoor patio is a perfect place to gather with some friends. On Fridays and Saturdays, there’s an entry charge after 2.30am (which gets you one drink on the house), but as always in our progressive modern times, ladies get in free of charge. Godoy Cruz 1715, entre Honduras y Gorriti, Palermo (4833 9030/www. levitarba.com). Bus 34, 39, 55, 108, 140, 111. Open from 10pm Wed-Sat. Map G2.

Liv Jet Every night, clubbers migrate to the Any ambitious BA clubber has to nightclubs lining Avenida Juan B Justo, make a weekly stopover at Jet. at the intersection of Palermo Situated along the posh Hollywood and Soho. Of Costanera Norte club those clubbers, all the circuit, Jet makes a killing young, beautiful three nights a week as twentysomethings line Feeling lost? hundreds of night owls up at Liv. If you like Let the clubbing experts put on their best threads your nights out to be at Night Aires in the hope of making the full-body experiences (www.night-aires.com) cut (no easy task here, Jet organise a fun night out – light on conversation has one of the strictest and heavy on pumping for you and your door policies in BA). Jet’s beats and peoplemates. Thursday night is easily among watching – then Liv’s Friday the best club nights in the capital, night should be just your can of attracting easy-on-the-eye locals and Speed. Guest DJs spin electro beats foreigners who come for a generous while deep red lighting casts the dose of electro fun. Cocktails and tapas evening in naughty hues. Saturdays in a chilled-out lounge-bar setting get move to a Latin beat, with cachengue things started, but the night doesn’t keeping the crowd moving. really heat up until 3am. Friday – Avenida Juan B Justo 1658, entre usually a night of rock and house for a Cabrera y Gorriti, Palermo (mobile 15 slightly younger crowd – is also 6838 8228). Bus 34, 39, 93, 108, 111, popular, and Jet’s the place to be seen 140, 151, 166, 168. Open 11pm-6am on Saturday nights when house beats Fri, Sat. Map H2. pump on late into the night. Entry costs AR$150-$200. Mandarine Club Avenida Rafael Obligado 4801, This riverside spot is brought to BA’s Costanera Norte (4782 5599/ clubbers by the people of Crobar, so www.jet.com.ar). Bus 37, 45, 152, 160. you’ll be in safe hands here – these Open from 11pm Thu-Sat. Map F6. guys know how to throw a party. At Mandarine they aim to pump new energy into the city’s electronic scene, Kika with an atmosphere influenced by the It seems no club in Buenos Aires will clubs of Paris and Berlin. A typical ever come close to dethroning Kika as


Time Out Insiders´ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 87

intention of emerging until the sun comes up. International names from the DJ stratosphere, including Popof, Jamie Jones, Dubfire and Chuckie, keep the party-hard dance fiends (including a fair share of hot musclemen and augmented model types) going until the bright and early hours of the morning. Those pretty and rich enough to go VIP have more chilled-out options at their disposal. Avenida Rafael Obligado 6151, Costanera Norte (4788 4280/www. pachabuenosaires.com). Bus 28, 33, 34. Open from 11.45pm Sat. Map G6.


Palermo Club A far cry from the fancy rags and classy cocktails of places like Asia de Cuba, this renovated bailanta – a nightclub playing cumbia music – attracts an alternative porteño crowd who come for the monthly party La Mentirosa, when local cumbia inspired bands play. Jorge Luis Borges 2454, entre Avenida Santa Fe y Güemes, Palermo (4774 3101/www.facebook.com/palermo.club). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 12, 29, 37, 39, 55, 57, 59, 60, 111, 141, 152, 194. Open from 11.30pm Fri, Sat. Map G4.

Out & About Gay Pub Crawl

Recommended Clubbing for solo travellers

Those travelling alone and eager for a taste of Buenos Aires’s nightlife needn’t be intimidated; there are plenty of expat hangouts and organised events that are sure to bring out the wilder side of even the wariest wallflower. If your drinking stamina is up to the task, try The Buenos Aires Pub Crawl (see p120), a guaranteed lively night and great way to meet locals and foreigners. LGBTQ travellers might opt for the Out & About Gay Pub Crawl (see p130), which runs every Thursday and Saturday and makes stops at the city’s hottest gay bars and clubs. International students looking for a stress-free, fun night out should look towards BAIS Argentina (www.baisargentina.org). This NGO organises outings to bars and clubs to help new students find their feet on the nightlife boulevard. Over in Palermo Soho, Magdalena’s Party (see p78) is a popular hangout for English speakers who take advantage of the daily happy hour from noon till midnight, comforting American grub and live music. For the penny-pinching backpacker, Milhouse (see p157) is a hostel notorious for its assortment of organised entertainment and pumping parties.

Friday night draws in crowds of fashionable twentysomething designer types and rockers partying to cachengue and reggaeton. The venue has two large spaces – a terrace and a main room – so no matter how sweaty you get you’ll find a way to cool down. Saturdays see international DJs spin trance and techno. Punta Carrasco, Avenida Costanera Norte y Sarmiento, Costanera Norte (4806 8002/www.mandarineclub.com). Bus 33, 37, 45, 152, 160. Open from midnight Fri, Sat. Map G6.

night’s hip-hop party LOST, undoubtedly one of the best Buenos Aires has to offer. Also keep an eye on the Facebook page for details of the next Beatles Party – one of Argentina’s Beatles tribute events, which, though taken very seriously, are as much fun as they sound. Balcarce 563, entre Venezuela y México, San Telmo (www.modclub.com. ar). Bus 2, 4, 8, 20, 22, 29, 33, 61, 64, 74, 86, 93, 103, 111, 129, 130, 143, 152. Open 11.45pm-7am Thu-Sat. Map B4.

M.O.D Variete Club It’s not hard to see where M.O.D Variete Club gets its name – this club’s weekly line-up is as varied as they come. On Friday nights M.O.D vibrates with the latest house and electro tunes, while on Saturdays local edgy teens head-bang to classic rock and indie mixes. The jewel in the crown though is Thursday

!Niceto Club One of the most sure-fire spots in town to party like you just don’t care, Niceto Club powers on with a packed roster in each of its two rooms, not to mention all the live gigs it hosts. Thursday’s glittering freak magnet Club 69 is an absolute must – the pumping crowd made up mainly of in-the-know

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foreigners rings in the weekend early with a full-on, jaw-dropping show of strippers, breakdancers and majestic drag queens bopping in time to the eclectic electro beats. Friday’s Invasión fiesta draws in fun-loving throngs for live indie bands followed by cumbia electrónica, pop and rock, while Saturday sees a rotating line-up of muscial acts and DJs, including electro-centric Undertones. Niceto Vega 5510, entre Humboldt y Fitz Roy, Palermo (4779 9396/www. nicetoclub.com). Bus 34, 39, 93, 140. Open 9pm-6am Thu-Sat. Map H2. Pacha Perched on the Costanera Norte, Pacha, with its gleaming white walls and waterfront views, is impossible to miss. It remains quiet all week, until Saturday night kicks in and chic clubbers trek out to its sweaty, rollicking dance pit, with no

Podestá Set in the heart of Palermo Soho, just round the corner from a whole host of bars suitable for pre-party drinks, this unpretentious two-floor club with a large terrace brings a refreshing change to the Buenos Aires clubbing scene. Attracting mainly laid-back, local folk, this popular club is not about who’s wearing what but instead just about having a blooming good time. A generous happy hour (11pm-1am) and other drink promotions get punters merry, while the excellent resident DJs spin rock, house and popular remixes of old-school classics. Armenia 1740, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador, Palermo (4832 2776/www. podestafotos.com). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, 57, 106, 110, 140, 151, 160, 168. Open from 11pm Thu-Sat. Map G3. The Roxy Live With a killer weekend line-up featuring two smash-hit club nights for the young, the restless and those just really into music, The Roxy Live is on top of its game. The spacious lounge area is perfect for relaxing into a cushy couch, knocking back a couple of cocktails and keeping an eye on the stage happenings (usually too-hip-to-care bands and VJs) before stepping out to boogie. Drop in for Friday’s Roxtar rock fiesta or Saturday’s Sympathy for the Party featuring live music then DJs afterwards. If you’re more partial to folk and indie sounds, don’t miss Thursday night’s Underclub. This is also a good spot to hit to continue the night after watching a gig at Niceto Club (see left), which is next door. Niceto Vega 5542, y Humboldt, Palermo (4777 0997/www.theroxybar. com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 93, 108, 140. Open from 8pm Thu; from 11pm Fri, Sat. Map H2.

Clubs Time Out Insiders´ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 89

Clubs Clubs BAIS Argentina (see p88) organises regular club outings

!Shamrock Basement An Irish pub/electro club in posh Recoleta? Unlikely, perhaps, but a winning combo. This spot is the product of some serious nightlife know-how, and brings in some of the city’s top turntable talent in an ever-changing, hand-picked roster focusing on electronica and deep house. It’s one of the few clubs that gets busy early, especially on Thursdays, thanks in part to the cheery happy hour drink specials in the moody upstairs pub (see p74). Shamrock Basement is one of the best places to be during the key hours of 3am to 6am, when the club is usually rocking with a mix of locals, tourists wandering down from upstairs and some of the hardiest clubbers from the BA night scene. The admission fee (AR$45-$65 for men, AR$30-$50 for women) includes a drink. The Shamrock, Rodríguez Peña 1220, entre Juncal y Arenales, Recoleta (4812 3584). Bus 10, 12, 17, 39, 59, 60, 106, 108, 111, 124, 132, 152. Open Bar from 6pm Thu-Sat. Club from midnight Thu-Sat. Map E5. Unicorn Huset Despite there being dozens of crowded bars in the area, Unicorn Huset, which lies behind unmarked doors, is the one that punters are prepared to queue for. With a more relaxed vibe than some of the megaclubs, Unicorn Huset is a great option for those who want to boogie without dressing up to the nines. It has monochrome walls, intimate seating and a spacious deck,

and fills to capacity each weekend with easy-on-the-eye twenty- and thirtysomethings who check each other (and themselves) out while sipping cocktails and mini-bowls of sparkling wine. As the night turns into morning, the dancefloor heaves with beautiful people who are deadly serious about having a good time. Honduras 5730, entre Bonpland y Carranza, Palermo (www.unicornhuset. com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 111, 140, 151, 166. Open 9.30pm-4.30am Fri, Sat. Map H2. You Know My Name This pumped-up lounge is the rather grimy, yet fun-filled haunt of indie-hipsters and rockers. Sip a fruity cocktail on couches under a wall of TV monitors while the VJ (that’s right, no DJs here) projects quirky music videos – think early-1990s Eurotrash electronica, Madonna’s True Blue era and contemporary pop. The two rooms usually focus on different decades, one might play 1970s classics, the other 1990s dance. Make a reservation beforehand so you can tuck in to a decent dinner for AR$120, then stay on for the evening free of charge. The clubbing-only set will have to pay AR$50 after 1.30am. Marcelo T de Alvear 1540, entre Montevideo y Paraná, Tribunales (4811 4730/www.youknowmyname. com.ar). Subte D, Callao/bus 5, 10, 12, 111, 132, 140, 150, 152. Open 7pm-2am Thu; 10pm-6am Fri, Sat. Map D5.

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Nightlife index Bars 878 Antares The Bangalore Pub & Curry House Bar du Marché BASA Bar Belushi Bernata The Bowie Cervecería Nacional Chupitos La Cigale Leitmotiv Doppelgänger Ferona Club Social Festival Florería Atlántico Frank’s Gibraltar Guarda la Vieja Isabel Krakow The Library Lounge M Salumería Magdalena’s Party Milión Mundo Bizarro NOLA Gastropub Patio de Vinos La Poesía Pony Line Bar La Princesa La Puerta Roja Puerta Uno Rey de Copas Lo de Roberto Río Café Rubik

80 74 76 76 72 76 76 76 76 80 72 76 72 76 76 72 76 72 80 76 72 74 78 78 74 78 78 78 72 74 78 72 80 78 80 78 74

Ser y Tiempo Será de Dios The Shamrock The Shanghai Dragon Shout Brasas & Drinks The Steve Soria Sr Duncan Tesla Verne Club Victoria Brown Wherever Bar

78 74 74 78 72 80 78 80 74 80 80 80

Clubs Alsina Asia de Cuba Bahrein La Capilla Club Aráoz Club Museum Club Severino Cocoliche Crobar Gong Jet Kika Levitar Liv Mandarine Club M.O.D Variete Club Niceto Club Pacha Palermo Club Podestá The Roxy Live Shamrock Basement Unicorn Huset You Know My Name

84 84 84 84 84 86 86 86 87 87 87 87 87 87 87 88 88 88 88 88 88 90 90 90

Shopping Shopping listings Shopping index

Photograph: Manto Abrigos by Ezequiel Poccard

92 110

Shopping morphology and Vanesa Krongold’s colourful patterns.

Jane Pain, Bastardo, Saralegui, Schang-Viton.

Buenos Aires style in a word or phrase? A vanishing point.

What makes BA style unique? The mix of the new, old and originality in each individual.

What’s a must-see for visitors? Must-visits include the Xul Solar Museum (see p120) and Guaraní Porã’s (see p100) beautiful handicrafts shop. If you’re into Argentinian meat, have dinner at Butchers (see p50), and lastly find a book at LibrosRef (Honduras 4191).

BA style in a word or phrase? Potentially open, but conservative. What’s a must-see for visitors? Go to the San Telmo market (see p110) or the Sunday feria at the Parque de los Andes, and eat pizza at La Mezzetta (Avenida Álvarez Thomas 1321), El Cuartito (see p26) or Pirilo (Defensa 821).

What is your favourite local trend? Least favourite? Favourite: The poncho comeback. Least favourite: I’m aware many big brands are using rabbit fur for accessories. It’s painful just to think about it.

What’s the best neighbourhood in BA for style-hunting? Each neighbourhood has its own appeal, but without doubt the favourite is always Palermo.

What’s the must-have item for this season? A Schang-Viton hand-knitted llama sweater.

Favourite city (besides BA) for style? London and New York are beautiful cities for people watching.

What’s the best neighbourhood in Buenos Aires for style-hunting? I love Recoleta for the elderly residents. What are your favourite Buenos Aires designers or brands? I love Boerr, YardeBuller’s geometric

What do you want to see in the future for local fashion? Boldness and brilliance.

What are your top BA designers or brands? Vanesa Krongold (see p108),

What makes Buenos Aires style unique? I love the local style because it’s an interesting union between European and traditional Argentinian influences. The style is very latinoeuropizado.

of Tramando (see p96), Amores Trash Couture (see p103), Jessica Kessel (see p94), Clovis and E-Edition. What are your favourite BA shops? Patrón (see p105), Tupã (see p104), Céntrico (see p106), JT by Jessica Trosman (see p108), Guaraní Porã and BIMBA Vintage (see p108).

What is your favourite local trend? Least favourite? What’s most interesting to me now is the minimalism trend. What I don’t like is that the big brands tend to offer the same thing, and people then dress the same, but that’s changing.

BA style in a word or phrase? Still searching for its own identity. What is your favourite local trend? Least favourite? My favourite local trend is shiny leggings. My least favourite trend is the ugly creeper platform shoes the girls wear with their leggings.

What’s the best neighbourhood in Buenos Aires for style-hunting? I like San Telmo for antiques, Barrio Chino for fun accessories and Palermo for more specific items.

What’s the must-have item for this season? A leather miniskirt. What do you want to see in the future for local fashion? People being more experimental and adventurous with their wardrobes.

What are your top Buenos Aires designers or brands? Martín Churba

What’s the best neighbourhood in BA for style-hunting? I love the hidden showrooms, workshops and boutiques around Palermo Hollywood and Colegiales.

92 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

What do you want to see in the future for local fashion? More independent designers that grow with time and more personality from the big Argentinian brands.

What are your top BA designers or brands? I really like the current crop of young, emerging designers, including Belén Amigo, Julia Schang-Vitón and Jessica Kessel.

What do you want to see in the future for local fashion? There’s a new generation of designers doing really interesting things, but they lack support. The city needs a better fashion week to match other fashion capitals around the world. Favourite city (besides BA) for style? My favourite city for fashion is London. I think people have a real freedom of expression and variety.

The essentials

The Centre

Shopping in the hectic Microcentro is focused on and around the pedestrian calle Florida, with its chain stores, souvenir shops and the popular Galerías Pacífico shopping centre. The area between Retiro and Recoleta encompasses the exclusive Patio Bullrich mall as well as a number of luxury leather goods stores. SHOPPING CENTRES

Galerías Pacífico This shopping centre is housed in a beautiful building decorated with frescoes by five Argentinian muralists. You’ll find famous names such as Lacoste here, along with jewellers Swarovski and local retail stars Ona Saez and Kosiuko. Florida 737, entre Viamonte y Avenida Córdoba (5000 5100/www.galerias pacifico.com.ar). Subte B, Florida/bus 6, 93, 130, 152. Open Shops 10am-9pm daily. Restaurants 10am-10.30pm daily. Credit varies. Map C5.


Vittorita If vintage makes you think of staid, retro threads, try Vittorita’s Congreso showroom for a modern, feminine take on it. Trendy pieces like printed silk shorts and blouses sit alongside woven bags, sandals and old-school lingerie. Owners and sisters Pame and Daniela hand-pick every piece for top-notch quality and provide expert styling services to all clientele. Write to them on Facebook to book an appointment, and dedicate your morning to sifting through gorgeous vintage jumpers before heading off to nearby historic sites like Café Tortoni (see p19) and the Plaza de Mayo (see p114). Address provided at time of booking, Congreso (mobile 15 6721 4062/www. vittorita.com.ar). Subte B, Callao/bus 12, 39. Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, by appt. No credit cards. Map D4. JEWELLERY

Plata Nativa Although this small shop, one of many in an unassuming shopping arcade, might at first appear unremarkable, it’s a treasure trove of indigenous and Latin American art, antique silver and ethnic accessories. The store’s clients

include the Rolling Stones, Marc Jacobs and Pedro Almodóvar, who have all been wowed by Marta Campana’s mind-boggling collection. Unit 41, Galería del Sol, Florida 860, entre Avenida Córdoba y Paraguay (4312 1398/www.platanativa.com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 6, 26, 75, 93. Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C5. LEATHER GOODS

Casa Lopez Well-established Casa Lopez, dedicated to all things leather, is located close to Plaza San Martín. Trenchcoats, jackets, handbags and luggage come in mostly classic styles, and the quality is top-notch. Native leathers such as those from the carpincho (a large rodent) and yacaré (a South American caiman) are used in a number of products. Marcelo T de Alvear 640/658, entre Florida y Maipú (4311 3044/www.casa lopez.com.ar). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 17, 59. Open 9am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-6.30pm Sat; 10am-6pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D6. Prüne Well-established Argentinian brand Prüne is a popular destination for bag fans, and its broad selection of styles ranges from handy holdalls to sparkly evening clutches. Studs, chains, animal prints and textured leathers feature frequently in the trendy collections, which also include wallets, belts, footwear, jackets and coats. Try on a sexy biker jacket and some ankle boots, then top them off with a studded messenger bag. Florida 963, y Paraguay (4893 2641/ www.prune.com.ar). Subte C, San Martín/bus 70, 91, 106. Open 9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; 11am-6pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. Other locations Patio Bullrich shopping centre, Recoleta (4814 7437); and branches throughout the city.


Wildlife Just steps from Avenida 9 de Julio, this shop sells brand new and second-hand equipment for campers, climbers, anglers, parachutists and more. The store’s expert staff is well equipped to guide you in all your purchases and on where to practise outdoor pursuits. Hipólito Yrigoyen 1133, entre Salta y Lima (4383 7013/www.wildlifesports. com.ar). Subte A, Lima/bus 2, 5, 7, 29, 59, 86. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4.

San Telmo

Known for its antiques shops and for its open-air Sunday feria on calle Defensa – a market that sprawls for several chaotic blocks – San Telmo is also home to a number of boutiques stocking clothing and accessories by up-and-coming local designers. ANTIQUES, ART AND COLLECTIBLES

Gabriel Del Campo Anticuario Well known for collectibles and furniture, this antiques shop facing Plaza Dorrego stocks unusual and eclectic pieces bound to bring character to even the dullest sitting room. Peruvian textiles sit side by side with oriental ebony and retro Louis Vuitton trunks. Take the time to browse through the store’s thrilling array of unorthodox objets. Bethlem 427, entre Defensa y Bolívar (4307 6589). Bus 24, 29, 126, 195. Open 10.30am-6.30pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. HB Antigüedades Stepping into this antiques emporium is like walking into a slightly over-furnished palace. It’s worth a look for the imposing centrepiece: a pink Italian chandelier that hangs regally from the lofty ceiling.


!Autoría BsAs Autoría is an eclectic mix of thoroughly Argentinian art and design. The store has a bit of everything; an art gallery, maté gourds, calendars, notebooks, as well as fashion and accessories. Browse through carefully selected, high quality garments from fashion designers like Min Agostini, bags and accessories from the likes of Neumática and Perfectos Dragones, and jewellery from María Medici and Marina Massone. Suipacha 1025, entre Avenida Santa Fe y Marcelo T de Alvear (5252 2474/ www.autoriabsas.com.ar). Subte C, San Martín/bus 5, 9, 10, 17, 23, 26, 39, 111, 152. Open 9.30am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. FASHION – MENSWEAR

La Martina This leather and casual clothes outfitter has one inspiration: polo. Pick

Monoblock in Galería Patio del Liceo (see p94)

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Stroll along Avenida Santa Fe and you’ll see block upon block of mega fashion chains, plenty with very tempting styles. But the heart of local fashion is found among the city’s many independent designers. To find some of the best local fashion, step behind closed doors to an appointment only showroom (see p108 Best in show). Or, ring the doorbell at one of the boutiques located in a subtly marked apartment, like Tupã (see p104) and Montón Junta de Diseño (see p103). As their notoriety grows, many brands are able to graduate from private showrooms to proper shops. Leather designer Guadalupe Martiarena (see p104), shoe designer Jessica Kessel (see p94) and traditional crafts shop Guaraní Porã (see p100) all recently opened shops to the public, meaning you’ve no excuse not to check out their wares.

up a long-sleeved shirt with a subtle logo or, for a more casual look, go for a short-sleeved version with print details. There’s womenswear with a preppy feel as well as large leather bags and, naturally, polo gear. If you can’t afford to splurge, get a piece of La Martina action with a leather wallet. Paraguay 661, entre Florida y Maipú (4576 7998/www.lamartina.com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 17. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. Other locations Arribeños 2632, Belgrano (4576 0011); and branches throughout the city.

perfect for women who dare to be different. It’s hard to choose just one piece, so ask Alberto’s partner Laura for a helping hand. There are also African decorative art and South American textiles for sale, but without a doubt it’s Alberto’s necklaces, rings and earrings that steal the show. You can also make your own piece with Alberto’s assistance, or ask about jewellery-making classes. Carlos Calvo 428, y Defensa (mobile 15 5949 9193). Bus 10, 17, 24, 28, 29. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat, Sun. No credit cards. Map B4.

Defensa 1016, entre Humberto 1º y Carlos Calvo (4361 3325/www. hbantiques.com). Bus 4, 8, 20, 24, 29. Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; noon-6pm Sat. No credit cards. Map B4.



Fedro San Telmo This excellent shop stocks a good range of new English novels as well as art and assorted books and magazines. Nip through to the back for CDs, children’s books and more, and note that the Wi-Fi here is on the house, as is the interesting programme of regular talks and readings. Carlos Calvo 578, entre Bolívar y Perú (4300 7551/www.fedrosantelmo.com. ar). Bus 24, 29, 33, 61, 62, 64, 74, 86, 93, 126, 130, 143, 152, 195. Open 1-8pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. Walrus Books With over 5,000 titles in this shop’s eclectic range of used but good quality English books, you’re guaranteed to find something of interest, whether it’s classic or modern literature or non-fiction. The atmospheric bookshop is a great place to wile away an hour. The owners also run a number of short literature courses in the shop and at the Walrus school in Palermo. Estados Unidos 617, entre Perú y Chacabuco (4300 7135/www.walrusbooks.com.ar). Subte C, Independencia/ bus 8, 22, 24, 29, 33, 60, 61, 74, 86. Open noon-8pm Tue-Sun. Credit MC, V. Map B4. DESIGN AND HOME ACCESSORIES

Cualquier Verdura Like some fantastic white elephant stall, this shop unites the curious, the quirky and the kitsch. The capricious collection is arranged around the interior of a casa chorizo – a narrow house with an interior patio – and consists of many one-off, original pieces. One room is decked out like a kitchen, with the household decor items that are for sale completing the look, while other rooms feature retro record players and toys for nostalgia fans. The different coloured price tags are not randomly assigned, but indicate whether the product is new, locally made, or a vintage find. There’s even a category for pieces the owners are reluctant to see leave the store. Humberto 1º 517, entre Bolívar y Perú (4300 2474/www.cualquierverdura. com.ar). Bus 4, 8, 10, 22, 24, 28, 29, 33, 53, 62, 64, 74. 86, 93, 152, 195. Open noon-8pm Thu-Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. L’Ago L’Ago’s exquisite, witty window displays are enough to stop you in your tracks. Once inside, you can easily lose yourself in a world of eclectorama, from original vintage furniture and lighting fixtures to creative toys and art and design by the cream of Argentinian artists and product designers. L’Ago is perfect for gift shopping: if you can’t find something in here then you’re simply not looking hard enough.


NEW Jessica Kessel Head to any fashion event in BA and you’re bound to see more than one fashionista sporting a pair of Jessica Kessel shoes. Kessel has had such success with her chunky, candycoloured ankle boots, sandals, brogues and heels that she’s recently been able to graduate from a Colegiales showroom to a fully-fledged shop. The secret? Her artisanal shoes are dripping in style, but the heels never exceed three inches, meaning you’ll actually want to wear them all day long. Defensa 1009, y Carlos Calvo (4362 2144/www.jkshoes.com.ar). Bus 20, 22, 24, 29, 61, 64, 74, 86, 93, 111, 129. Open 11am-7pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. Violraviol (see p101)

Defensa 970, y Carlos Calvo (4362 4702/www.lagosantelmo.com). Bus 24, 29, 33, 74, 103, 111, 126, 129, 152. Open 11am-8pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. FASHION – BOUTIQUES

Puntos en el Espacio Visit this ample, well-laid-out space for clothing for guys and girls, plus pretty underwear, bags, accessories and footwear from talented young designers. Time Out loves the colourful metallic jewellery by Paula Pizani, the psychedelic trainers by Puro and kids’ clothing range Chango. This shop is always buzzing with hip young things examining the rails of comfy basics and slickly designed clubwear. Carlos Calvo 450, entre Defensa y Bolívar (4307 7906/www.puntos enelespacio.com.ar). Bus 22, 24, 29, 111, 126, 129, 143, 159, 195. Open 11am-9pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. FASHION – VINTAGE

Gil Antigüedades This store looks more like a costume museum than a shop at first glance. The exceptionally genial owners María Inés and Héctor Horacio have had fashion superstars like John Galliano and Carolina Herrera turn up on their doorstep to browse the collection of over 6,000 pieces including clothing, jewellery, fans, footwear, parasols, trunks and figurines. No one with even a passing interest in fashion should think of leaving San Telmo without stopping by.

94 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

Humberto 1º 412, y Defensa (4361 5019/www.gilantiguedades.com.ar). Bus 10, 22, 29, 126. Open 11am-1pm, 3-7pm Tue-Sat; 11am-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. Other location Estados Unidos 361, San Telmo (4362 7922), by appt only. JEWELLERY

Recoleta and Barrio Norte

From chain stores on Avenida Santa Fe to budget-busting designers on the chic Avenida Alvear, Recoleta has plenty of clothing stores, the majority of which cater to a more mature and monied clientele. You’ll also find leather goods and chic home accessories and the colourful weekend craft market on Plaza Francia where you can pick up traditional gifts like maté gourds and leather belts.

Marcelo Toledo One of the most respected jewellers in BA, Toledo is one of the favourites of the former King of Spain and has also made pieces for Prince Charles and his SHOPPING CENTRES mum. Toledo’s ‘Evita’ collection Galería Bond Street featured more than 120 items A favourite with wannabe including earrings, brooches rebels and emo kids, this and necklaces in silver grungy galería on and gold with precious stones, many of them One size doesn’t fit all Avenida Santa Fe is replicas of pieces found in Don’t worry if you can’t home to everything from Eva Perón’s wardrobe. squeeze into the clothes hip trainers and urban Humberto 1º 462, entre in Argentinian shops. It’s wear to bondage gear. Bolívar y Defensa (4362 not you, it’s the teeny tiny You can easily wile away an afternoon rifling 0841/www.marcelotoledo. sizes made for through the vintage net). Subte C, San Juan/bus models. shops. Lucky Seven and 4, 8, 22, 28, 33, 53, 64, 93, American Tattoo, a favourite of 126, 129. Open 10.30am-5.30pm Maradona, are just two of the many Mon-Fri, Sun. Credit AmEx, V. Map body art and piercing parlours well B4. worth a visit. Avenida Santa Fe 1670, entre Signos Montevideo y Rodríguez Peña (www. At this pint-sized shop-cumworkshop, just a hop, skip and a jump facebook.com/xbondstreet). Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 106, 109, 110, 171. from Plaza Dorrego, jewellery Open 11am-9pm Mon-Sat. Credit designer Alberto Codiani busies varies. Map E4. himself making chunky silver pieces with precious and semi-precious !Galería Patio del Liceo stones, most originating from South Behind a tall red door on frenetic America. Ranging from baroque to Avenida Santa Fe lies the city’s most Indian in style, these beauties are


Shopping Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 95


bohemian shopping precinct, with more than 30 art galleries and shops set around a leafy, oasis-like patio. Watering hole Baby Snakes is at the centre of the patio, delivering al fresco rehydration to thirsty hipsters. Among the gems in the galería are independent record store Mercurio; jewellery boutique Callis; ukulele shop and school Los Hermanos; art bookshop Purr Libros; whimsical clothing label Greens, and vintage treasure trove Biorder. If this place isn’t already on your shopping radar, it should be. Avenida Santa Fe 2729, entre Laprida y Anchorena (www.galeriapatiodelliceo. com). Subte D, Agüero/bus 12, 29, 39, 41, 64, 68, 106. Open 2-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit varies. Map E4. Patio Bullrich The most luxurious of all BA’s shopping centres, Patio Bullrich was once the city’s meat auction house. Elegant and upmarket, it is home to many local and international high-end stores including Trosman and Carolina Herrera, as well as an excellent delicatessen, Valenti. Avenida del Libertador 750, entre Montevideo y Libertad (4814 7400/ www.shoppingbullrich.com.ar). Bus 17, 61, 62, 67, 70, 93, 100, 110, 124, 130, 152. Open Shops 10am-9pm daily. Restaurants 10am-11pm Sun-Thu; 10am-1am Fri, Sat. Credit varies. Map E5. Recoleta Mall This shopping centre opposite Recoleta Cemetery houses all the top brands

under the one roof, plus a ten-screen cinema complex. Head up to the top floor for a stunning view of the city’s most famous cemetery. Vicente López 2050, entre Uriburu y Junín (4808 0605/www.recoletamall. com.ar). Bus 10, 39, 93, 110, 118, 124, 130. Open Shops 10am-10pm daily. Restaurants 10am-midnight Sun-Thu; 10am-2am Fri, Sat. Credit varies. Map E5. BOOKSHOPS

Ateneo Grand Splendid Located in a lavish former theatre, El Ateneo is, without a doubt, the city’s most beautiful bookshop. Browse book after book in the unique surroundings, or have a drink in the on-stage café. Avenida Santa Fe 1860, entre Avenida Callao y Riobamba (4813 6052/www. tematika.com). Subte D, Callao/bus 10. Open 9am-10pm Mon-Thu; 9ammidnight Fri, Sat; noon-10pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4. Other locations Florida 340, Microcentro (4325 6801); and branches throughout the city. DESIGN AND HOME ACCESSORIES

!Fueguia If you think Chanel No. 5’s top note is overly bergamot and best left for a cup of Earl Grey, step into Fueguia, a sexy fragrance- and candle-making laboratory, where you can create your own bouquet. The store offers 100-plus temptations all sourced from ecofriendly materials. Jorge Luis Borges, Argentina’s most prolific writer, has inspired two scents: cedar-hued Pulpería

No. 73 (based on a conversation between Borges and his character Ireneo Funes), and wood-and-leather scented Biblioteca de Babel No. 40 (reminiscent of a comfortable old study). You can also pick up Fueguia fragrances at its new space inside of Casa Cavia (see p64). Avenida Alvear 1680, y Rodríguez Peña (4311 5360/www.fueguia.com). Bus 17, 60. Open 11am-1.30pm, 2.30-8pm daily. Credit MC, V. Map E5. FASHION – CHAINS

Chocolate This popular store offers stylish essentials like Peruvian pima cotton tops and pretty voile blouses in flattering colours, as well as options for special occasions and on-trend accessories. Founded over 25 years ago, Chocolate has a loyal following and is known for its great quality items. Avenida Santa Fe 1430, entre Uruguay y Paraná (4816 0153/www.chocolate argentina.com.ar). Bus 10, 12, 29, 60, 152. Open 9.30am-8pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-7pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. Other location Honduras 4928, Palermo (4833 3553). !Las Pepas An eclectic array of garments graces the rails at popular Las Pepas, though one mainstay of the brand’s collections is the range of leather outerwear and accessories. The large selection of leather jackets includes classic blousons and belted trenches, as well as pretty, feminine styles in

sumptuously soft suede. Bags range from classic holdalls to dainty clutches, and footwear is also available. Avenida Santa Fe 1631, y Montevideo (4811 7887/www.laspepas.com.ar). Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 12, 29, 39, 60. Open 10am-9pm Mon-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. Other locations Alto Palermo shopping centre, Palermo (5777 8001); and branches throughout the city. FASHION – DESIGNER

DODDS Argentinian designer Sofía Dodds may have opened her boutique in October 2013, but her last name has long been a fixture in the neighbourhood; her grandmother, Cristina Dodds, ran a boutique for years on the same corner. Now Sofía has created a name for herself with her delicate and chic woven tops, dresses, skirts and jackets, which come in bold-coloured yet simple block prints. Many of the jackets and tops are finished with a material that Sofía calls engomado, roughly translated as ‘gummy’, which looks and feels like a lightweight alternative to leather. Perfect for a night out or a special event, the clothes are particularly remarkable because no two pieces are alike. Guido 1699, y Rodríguez Peña (4815 8695). Bus 10, 37, 60. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. Tramando Martín Churba, the innovative designer behind this label, whips up ingenious womenswear in a fusion of artistry and eccentricity. Wacky weaving, abstract prints and fabrics with rubbery finishes are among the brand’s hallmarks, as are modern fabrics featuring details and print effects reminiscent of traditional Argentinian woven textiles. Rodríguez Peña 1973, entre Posadas y Avenida Alvear (4811 0465/www. tramando.com). Bus 12, 17, 60. Open 10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri; 11am-7pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. Other locations Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (4803 5434); Honduras 4881, Palermo (4833 5955). FASHION – BOUTIQUES

Plata Nativa (see p93)

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Cultivo Diseño Though housed in an old-fashioned building with a marble staircase and antique lift, Cultivo Diseño is all about what’s new. The boutique features independent Argentinian designers and is a snapshot of the latest in porteña street style. Playful graphic T-shirts, candy-coloured clutches, printed mini-dresses and platform shoes are displayed in various rooms, which are more reminiscent of a dressing-up box than a typical shop. Get your platform shoes, pile on a few necklaces and step onto Avenida Santa Fe looking like a bonafide local. Apartment 6, 2nd floor, Avenida Santa Fe 1731, y Rodríguez Peña (4812 0309/www.cultivodiseno.com. ar). Subte D, Callao/bus 39, 60, 75. Open noon-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4.


Unión Tienda (see p107)


Venga Madre Mums-to-be can choose from casual daytime attire and elegant, streamlined evening wear at this store located just off busy Avenida Santa Fe. Opt for something slinky yet stretchy, or wrap up in the cosy cardigans that are just as fabulous post-pregnancy. In a city obsessed with the smaller frame, this place is a real find. Paraná 1052, entre Marcelo T de Alvear y Avenida Santa Fe (4813 0662/www.vengamadre.com.ar). Bus 5, 10, 12, 17, 23, 26, 29, 111, 132, 152. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. Other locations La Pampa 2152, Belgrano (4784 8885); Viamonte 653, Microcentro (4394 0972). FASHION – VINTAGE AND USED

Galería 5ta Avenida It’s not all about vintage at Galería 5ta (pronounced ‘quinta’ – fifth) Avenida, but that’s definitely one of the things this grungy mini-mall does best. Here, persistence pays off: for those prepared to rummage about there are great pieces to be found, from tooled leather bags to vintage sportswear. For vintage eyewear visit Óptica Nahuel at store number 38 (4811 2837), and for rare vinyl, check out the fabulous record shop Abraxas (see right). Avenida Santa Fe 1270, entre Libertad y Talcahuano (4816 0451). Bus 5, 9, 10, 39, 60, 111, 129. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit varies. Map D5. Juan Pérez A used clothing megastore, Juan Pérez stocks a multitude of garments and accessories for women and men, from vintage Valentino to second-hand local labels like Kosiuko and María Cher.

The shop has a particularly large selection of items from the 1970s to the 1990s, and prices range from pocket change to serious investment. Marcelo T de Alvear 1441, entre Paraná y Uruguay (4815 8442/www. vestitenjuanperez.blogspot.com). Bus 10, 17, 29. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.

bag or passport holder. Arenales 1210, y Libertad (4815 6581/ www.peterkent.com.ar). Bus 10, 17, 39. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. Other locations Avenida Alvear 1820, Recoleta (4804 7264); Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (4806 5442).

Rossi & Caruso Make like the Spanish royal family and Oleana visit this store for classic handbags, Designer Yanina Faour creates bold briefcases and a host of other leather rings in a variety of styles ranging goods, from wallets and belts to saddles from cocktail-party bling and and riding crops. There are plenty of corporate-climber modernism, to leather jacket styles including resplendent art deco. The Mandala trenchcoats for men and traditional, line, for instance, features quilted suede waistcoats for stunning mosaicked women. Lizard-skin pendants and earrings shoes for women and that resemble stained classic Chelsea boots for Winter boots glass, while the playful men are just some of Keep your toes nice and Organic collection cosy with a pair of gorgeous the footwear options offers octopus rings available, and the range handmade leather boots and dragonfly from Jessica Kessel (see of unique accessories necklaces. Yanina can p94) or Céntrico (see includes crocodilealso create custom p106). leather belts and designs, and has a men’s fur-lined leather gloves. line too. Posadas 1387 & 1379, entre Apartment 12A, Rodríguez Peña Rodríguez Peña y Montevideo (4811 2067, y Avenida del Libertador (mobile 15 3431 5213/www.oleana.com.ar). Bus 1965/www.rossicaruso.com). Bus 17, 60, 61, 67. Open 9.30am-8pm 60, 67. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri. Mon-Fri; 10am-7pm Sat; 11am-6pm Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. Other locations Recoleta Mall, LEATHER GOODS Recoleta (4806 1935); Galerías Pacífico Peter Kent shopping centre, Microcentro Founded in 1972, Peter Kent is one of (4312 7749). the city’s best luxury brands. Season after season, its high-quality classic Santesteban bags, both practical and stylish, have Beautifully crafted handbags and proven capable of accompanying any outfit. But even so, you won’t be able to women’s footwear are offered at Verónica Santesteban’s store in the exclusive resist splashing out on the new shades Galería Promenade shopping arcade. The and styles also offered. If you’re impressive, wide range of exotic looking for a smaller slice of designer luxury, snap up a purse, wallet, laptop materials includes stingray and crocodile JEWELLERY

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skin, supple leather and the softest of furs, and horn and precious stones are used in the detailing. As you’d expect with this quality of product, every piece is handmade by skilled artisans. Local 40, Galería Promenade, Avenida Alvear 1883, entre Avenida Callao y Ayacucho (4800 1174/www.santeste ban.net). Bus 17, 60, 61, 62, 67, 92, 93, 110, 124. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. SHOES – WOMEN’S

Comme Il Faut Hidden away in a peaceful lane, famous Comme Il Faut offers beautifully made tango shoes. The technical part of the design makes the footwear ideal for even the most demanding dancer, and the aesthetic element ensures that these stunning shoes are coveted by both tangueras and tourists. The stylish boutique is an experience in itself, as there are very few shoes on display to browse; instead customers describe the style and colour they prefer and wait on plush sofas as box after box of delicate heels are brought out to try on. Apartment M, Rue des Artisans, Arenales 1239, entre Libertad y Talcahuano (4815 5690/www. commeilfaut.com.ar). Bus 39, 70, 108. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. Credit MC, V. Map D5. MUSIC

Abraxas This miniscule music store is legendary. For over three decades, owner Fernando Pau has been helping rock ’n’ roll fans get their jam on with a carefully curated selection of CDs and LPs that includes both output from relatively unknown groups and coveted collectors’ items. Alongside the music,

you can also find a selection of books, DVDs and musical memorabilia. Local 74-76, Galería 5ta Avenida, Avenida Santa Fe 1270 (4815 7160/ www.abraxasdiscos.com.ar). Bus 10, 29, 39, 60. Open 11am-8.30pm Mon-Fri; noon-8.30pm Sat. No credit cards. Map D5.

books and quirky little souvenir editions make great gifts, and there’s a very pleasant café at the back of the store for a pick-me-up cortado. Thames 1762, y Pasaje Russel (4833 6637/www.librosdelpasaje.com.ar). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 34, 39, 55. Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 2-9pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.



Arandú You’ll find everything you need here to kit yourself out as a hard-bitten gaucho: the saddle, the riding boots, the hats and the maté gourd. In terms of souvenir hunting, this is decidedly upmarket merchandise – it’s spot-on for gifts for your loved ones – with excellent quality leather goods and engraved steak knives. Ayacucho 1924, entre Avenida Alvear y Quintana (4800 1575/www.arandu. com.ar). Bus 10, 17, 59, 110, 124. Open 9am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; 10am-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5.


NEW Nobrand Show off about your trip to Argentina with one of Nobrand’s iconic souvenirs, which sport simple motifs of Argentinian symbols. Grab an empanada badge, a Che Guevara notebook or a stylish ceramic maté. This cool, urban store also stocks gorgeous leather jewellery from Iskin Joyería Contemporánea and Kärton Kärton’s fun cardboard animals, designed for children to assemble. El Salvador 4658, y Armenia (4831 3409/www.nobrand.com.ar). Bus 39, 55, 151. Open noon-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.


Papelera Palermo With pretty handmade paper, cards and envelopes in all shapes, sizes and textures, this super stationer’s is an absolute joy to behold. An impressive array of design and art books is further inspiration to take up a craft, and if you decide to, Papelera Palermo offers workshops including bookbinding, printing, origami, calligraphy, paper making, marbling, drawing and painting, all at very reasonable prices. Cabrera 5227, entre Uriarte y Godoy Cruz (4833 3081/www.papelera palermo.com.ar). Bus 39, 55, 168. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat. No credit cards. Map G2.

Trendy Palermo is one of the city’s creative hubs. A hotbed for artists and designers, it has plenty of hip clothing and design stores dotted around its attractive streets, including on Honduras and Gurruchaga near Plaza Serrano. The area is ideal for shopping, strolling and soaking up the atmosphere. There are also weekend markets on both Plaza Serrano and Plaza Armenia selling jewellery, paintings, sunglasses and clothes. SHOPPING CENTRES

Alto Palermo The ever-popular Alto Palermo contains many of Argentina’s top chains like Complot and Desiderata. There are a few make-up counters on the ground floor, and those prone to claustrophobia can escape the crowds of consumers in the cafés upstairs. Avenida Santa Fe 3253, entre Coronel Díaz y Bulnes (5777 8000/www. altopalermo.com.ar). Subte D, Bulnes/ bus 15, 39, 64, 152. Open 10am-10pm daily. Credit varies. Map F4. Alcorta Shopping The upmarket Alcorta Shopping is often considered BA’s most pleasant mall. It contains a gigantic Carrefour hypermarket as well as quality clothing shops including Penguin, local menswear brand Bensimon (see p104) and a branch of Argentinian designer Martín Churba’s Tramando (see p96). Salguero 3172, y Avenida Figueroa Alcorta (5777 6500/www. alcortashopping.com.ar). Bus 37, 67, 102, 130. Open Shops 10am-9pm daily. Restaurants 10am-10pm Sun-Thu; 10am-11pm Fri, Sat. Credit varies. Map G5. BOOKSHOPS

Alamut Libros This shop brings to BA just what every city needs: a bookshop combined with a wine store. The books share a space with wine boutique Autre Monde (www.autremonde.com.ar), where the

Recommended Guaraní Porã

A slice of Paraguay in Palermo Hollywood, Guaraní Porã stocks beautiful artisanal objects sourced from Paraguay and northern Argentina. Some are made traditionally, while others are given a subtle design twist by owner and curator Caro Urresti, who fell in love with Paraguayan culture while on holiday in 2006. Highlights include classic leather bags, ornaments inspired by traditional farm life and funky cable chairs that come in a range of metallic colours. Those looking to make smaller purchases can opt for pretty cushion covers or handcrafted placemats. Ravignani 1441, y Niceto Vega (4775 3614/www.guaranipora.com). Bus 39, 93, 108, 140, 151. Open 3-8pm Wed-Sat. No credit cards. Map H2.

expert owner hand selects every bottle. Alamut’s libros are chosen with equal care, and owners Daniela and Luciano take pride in offering titles beyond just what’s on the best-seller list. For a night of wine and culture, reserve a spot at one of Alamut’s film screenings, the price of which includes two glasses of quality wine. Jorge Luis Borges 1985, y Soler (4833 9184). Bus 39, 55, 57, 110, 111. Open 3-10pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

inviting spaces. It specialises in hardback design and travel tomes, with a small selection of English-language titles, and its book launches and free live music events draw in a sedate crowd most evenings. When you’ve had your fill of browsing, retreat to the roof terrace to sip refreshing mojitos. Nicaragua 4899, y Thames (4778 3554/www.dainusinacultural.com). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 34, 55. Open noon-9pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Dain Usina Cultural An identity crisis (is it a bookshop? A café? A live music venue? A bar?) doesn’t detract from the fact that this corner locale is one of Palermo’s most

Libros del Pasaje The walls of this shop are crammed with books on subjects ranging from English literature to Argentinian art and design. The fabulous coffee-table

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Pehache Set in a renovated antique house in the heart of Palermo, Pehache (as in PH, which stands for propiedad horizontal) is one of those concept stores that even shopping phobes could spend hours in. Not only are you tempted to buy every item (though the price tags do require self-control), but it’s all so prettily laid out that you’re almost afraid to pick things up. Almost. Items like hand-painted penguin-shaped jugs and stand-alone baths are all by local designers and hand-picked by the two sisters who own the shop. Everything is for sale, including the chairs in the changing room and the paintings on the walls. The patio doubles as a café selling fruit juices, sandwiches and salads. Gurruchaga 1418, entre Cabrera y Gorriti (4832 4022/www.pehache.com). Bus 15, 39, 55, 47, 106, 140, 151, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Sabater Hermanos Run by the third generation of Sabater family soap makers, this funky shop and workshop is a soap version of a pick ’n’ mix counter. With coloured soap flakes, cookie-cutter shapes and ‘hundreds and thousands’ of scented soaps, there are plenty of choices. Rebels may gravitate to the Black

Most wanted items Artisanal perfume from Fueguia Fueguia’s (see p96) unisex fragrances will cost you a pretty penny, but these perfumes, inspired by the likes of Jorge Luis Borges, will remind you of your travels to Argentina long after you’ve returned home. Pay a bit extra to have your bottle packaged in a box made of Patagonian wood.

Leather backpack from Mambo They may be far removed from the carryall sacks of backpackers trekking through South America, but these leather backpacks manage both style and practicality in spades. Look for Mambo’s mochilas at boutiques like La Onion (Rodríguez Peña 1722) and Carnavalia (Juncal 1324).


One of a kind jewellery from Gabriela Horvat The stars of Gabriela Horvat’s line are her statementmaking woven necklaces, but her classic silver and gold pieces will suit a more delicate aesthetic. Find her work at shops like Patrón (see p105).

Salmón Tienda Salmón is like a Pinterest lover’s dream come true. The owners take care in curating their shop, filling it with objects and products from Argentinian artisans. This eclectic store has everything from canvas bags to organise your kitchen to teeny-tiny cactus plants, and you may find yourself convinced that your home badly needs every one of the items on display. If you’re on the hunt for a one-of-a-kind piece to decorate your home, you’ve come to the right spot – just don’t blame Time Out if you leave with a few more items than anticipated. Cabello 3629, y Scalabrini Ortiz (4809 3344/www.salmontienda.com). Bus 57, 59, 60, 67, 93, 95, 102, 108, 110, 118, 130. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-7pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4. Violraviol The charming household items at this shop offer a nostalgic nod towards the traditional porteña lifestyle. Owner Cecilia Sonzani uses ethicallysourced cotton textile fabrics with unique prints to give old-school items a modern makeover. The rolling shopping trolley, once only used by elderly porteñas, is now a trendy bestseller thanks to Sonzani’s funky vintage prints. Tablecloths, napkins and placemats are also available in a variety of retro patterns. Think Cath Kidston with an Argentinian twist. El Salvador 5894, y Ravignani (4778 3136/www.violraviol.com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 151, 168. Open 2-8pm Tue-Fri; 11.30am-7pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. FASHION – CHAINS

Ceramic maté from Nobrand The modernist maté sipper will love Nobrand’s (see p100) take on the Argentinian traditional gourd. Even if you can’t stand the bitter brew, the chic ceramic orbs will look just as nice displayed on your coffee table.

De la Ostia For the clubber by night, flower child by day, De la Ostia is the attire of choice for the experimental twentysomething. Glam jackets and sequinned miniskirts are made for getting elegantly wasted in, while lacy, draped tops and T-shirts with beaded detailing give a ’70s flashback to a stroll in the park. Argentinian designer Lola Canavosio likes her tones monochrome or muted and she also does a range of jeans and footwear to complete the look. El Salvador 4627, entre Armenia y Malabia (4833 3468/www.delaostia. net). Bus 15, 110, 140, 151. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Thu; 11am-8.30pm Fri, Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Other locations Alcorta Shopping; Palermo (5777 6562); Maure 1538, Belgrano (4777 8906); and branches throughout the city.

Sabbath or marijuana leaf squares, while those who get their kicks in less gritty ways may chuckle at the soapcakes bearing Spanish phrases like ‘Doesn’t wash your conscience’. Gurruchaga 1821, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (4833 3004/www.shnos. com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 36, 55, 111. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; 1-7pm Sun. No credit cards. Map G3.

Paula Cahen D’Anvers An unstructured look and a potpourri of pretty, comfortable separates are the secret to this brand’s success. Think flirty model type raiding her boyfriend’s wardrobe for an oversized white shirt to team with her lacetrimmed cotton camisole and culottes, to get an idea of the brand’s aesthetic. There are preppy items with a touch of masculine tailoring but the collections Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 101


are always decidedly feminine, with floral motifs and broderie anglaise frequently recurring. These are garments that will slot into most wardrobes, though prices may make you pause before purchasing. Alto Palermo shopping centre, Avenida Santa Fe 3253, y Coronel Díaz (5777 8227/www.paulacahendanvers.com.ar). Subte D, Bulnes/bus 12, 39, 92. Open 9am-6pm Mon-Fri; 9am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F4. Other locations Honduras 4888, Palermo (4833 6655); and branches throughout the city. Vitamina Silk tops, buttery smooth leather jackets and draped T-shirts in the softest of yarns: Vitamina’s clothes are luxuriously touchy-feely. Designer Silvia Ortiz has cornered the market for the sophisticated girly girl, and her elegant-yet-relaxed pieces are dreamy enough to float away in. El Salvador 4757, entre Gurruchaga y Armenia (4897 2180/www.vitamina. com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 55, 93, 141, 168. Open 10am-8pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Other locations Alto Palermo shopping centre, Palermo (4508 2211); Galerías Pacífico shopping centre, Microcentro (5555 5245). FASHION – DESIGNER

Agostina Bianchi Following the triumph of her luxury knitwear abroad – the designer was invited by Harrods in London to showcase her chic creations in the store – Agostina Bianchi decided to set up shop at home in Buenos Aires. Displayed in her elegant boutique is a range of flattering, feminine confections for the mature woman, made with sumptuously soft yarns including merino wool and mohair, and featuring interesting touches such as metallic-coloured threads. Every item in Bianchi’s collections is handmade and available only in limited numbers.

Thames 1733, entre El Salvador y Pasaje Russel (4833 9357/www. agostinabianchi.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140. Open noon-8.30pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. !Blackmamba Perhaps you already knew Argentina is the place to buy leather goods, but you probably didn’t count on anything quite as cool as this. Designer Bianca Siconolfi manages the rare feat of turning goth style into high fashion with quality pieces like leather jackets, studded handbags and bold shoes, as well as T-shirts and chunky knits. Daring detailing like a ribcage stitched on to the back of a leather jacket comes off as cheeky rather than creepy, while a tarnished-silver tarantula necklace is the edgy piece you didn’t know your wardrobe needed. With both menswear and womenswear, this shop is a must for the cutting-edge fashionista. Soler 4502, y Malabia (4832 5083/ www.beblackmamba.com). Bus 15, 39, 141, 160. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Cecilia Gadea Cecilia Gadea’s pieces are consistently whimsical and feminine, without ever crossing the line into juvenile or frilly. Gadea’s background in both graphic design and fashion translates into laser-cut lace and custom textiles that turn her wardrobe essentials into anything but basic. Wearable dresses come with dreamy flounced layers, and delicate lacy collars help old shirts look like new. Located just steps from Plaza Serrano, this is a fashion retreat from the bustle of beer-stained bars. Serrano 1536, y Honduras (4831 5930/www.ceciliagadea.com). Bus 15, 39, 55, 93, 141. Open 2-7.30pm Tue-Fri; 1-5pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Cora Groppo Cora Groppo is known for her flowing forms and love of layering, and the use

Pesqueira (see p103)

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of textural details such as ruching and piping in her garments. Unlike some of the more eye-searing colours found in BA boutiques, here the palate is made up of muted, chic neutrals. There’s plenty of visual interest to be found in Groppo’s use of leather, plastic chains and other textural details, giving structure to her soft, unusual shapes. Fine knits are a key element of the collections and make excellent wardrobe basics. El Salvador 4657, y Armenia (4833 7474/www.coragroppo.com). Bus 15. Open 10.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Other location Uruguay 1296, Recoleta (4815 8516). Cubreme Fashion designer Alejandra Gottelli does her bit for the planet – and the local economy – by supporting Argentinian farmers, sourcing organic wool from Patagonian sheep and llamas from San Luis, as well as chemical-free cotton from Chaco. The yarns are woven into the softest of fabrics and hand-tailored into classic yet contemporary cardigans, silk-blend scarves and slip dresses in earthy, neutral tones. The boutique also carries a men’s and homeware line. Godoy Cruz 1720, entre Honduras y Gorriti (4832 5176/www.cubreme.com). Bus 34. Open 12.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Dubié This is one independent fashion house you should definitely not be dubious of. The discrete storefront does not scream out for attention on passing, but stop once and you’ll visit time and time again. The collection has a select range of heels, boots and women’s clothing, all handmade from luxurious materials like white leather and pony hair, a testament to the craftsmanship at Dubié. The label’s chic versatility means you’ll be able to wear the pieces

on just about any occasion. Think blacks, whites, navy blues and neutrals made with gorgeous linens and raw textures. The pointed backless heels sell like hot cakes here in BA. República de la India 3139, y Seguí (4807 3890/www.dubie.com). Bus 37, 57, 128. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Garza Lobos Garza Lobos has been causing quite a stir on the city’s fashion circuit since its womenswear collection debuted at 2011’s spring/summer Buenos Aires Fashion Week. The label’s ultrafeminine clothes and signature marbled print have struck a chord with a fashion-forward crowd, as has its experimental use of exotic animal fibres including llama, chinchilla and guanaco. The spacious boutique, in a converted old Palermo house, pairs a minimalist aesthetic with the building’s original charm. El Salvador 4734, entre Gurruchaga y Armenia (4833 5280/www.garzalobos. com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 57, 106, 110, 140, 141, 151, 168. Open 1-8pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Juana de Arco Mariana Cortés, the designer behind the Juana de Arco label, began creating her highly original colourful designs from scraps of fabric. Through experimentation and incorporating traditional South American textile arts like Ñandutí, a Paraguayan lacemaking technique, into her work, Cortés developed the multicoloured patchwork confections that are her signature pieces today. Underwear is a speciality: treat yourself to the multicoloured bras, camisoles and organic cotton knickers. Downstairs in the brightly decorated store you can also find the Juana Casa line with patchwork pillows in all shapes and sizes, laptop cases and rugs. El Salvador 4762, y Gurruchaga (4833 1621/www.juanadearco.net). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 110. Open 10.30am-8pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Other location Recoleta Mall, Recoleta (4805 1208). Them Tucked away on a quiet corner of Palermo Soho, this quirky designer shop mixes porteñas’ love for bum-skimming hemlines and skin-baring cut-outs with just enough chic to make the clothes more than clubwear. The brand’s crisp black and white dresses, loud prints and eye-catching shoes like neon lace-ups and pointy white d'Orsay flats, mean the little store packs a huge punch. Even better, the quality label is affordable when compared to many neighbouring shops, with its end-of-season sales particularly good for bargains. Malabia 1924, y Nicaragua (3535 0346/www.somosthem.com). Bus 15, 35, 39, 55, 57, 110, 111, 141, 160. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Vestite y Andate Luxury fabrics and graphic prints are the hallmarks of the chic statement pieces dreamed up by Agustina Bengolea and Clara Campagnola. These two designers understand what it means to play with fabrics; frocks made from shimmery velvet and the softest of suede, silk tops that drape just so and colourful woollen vests that flatter the female form are embellished with pops of chiffon, mesh and lurex. Nicaragua 4604, entre Gurruchaga y Armenia (3532 2495/www.vestitey andate.net). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, 110, 141, 160. Open noon-6pm Mon-Fri; 1-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.



Vevû Vevû’s Palermo boutique houses an ultra-feminine collection, ranging from demure pastel blouses and 1950s-style strapless dresses to classic black and white numbers. Designer Sandra Delelis’s tactic is to take high fashion trends and rework them into wearable pieces designed to flatter all shapes and sizes. Jumpsuits, flapper-style dresses and vintage-inspired pendants are all must-have items. El Salvador 4663, entre Armenia y Malabia (4833 3360/www.vevu.com). Bus 15, 36. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Other location Avenida Las Heras 3896, Recoleta (4807 8094).

NEW Montón Junta de Diseño This airy Palermo apartment showcases the work of young, local designers. You could easily construct a whole new wardrobe from Montón’s range of irresistible wares, which includes dresses, accessories and even lingerie. Must-have items include Clara & Yema’s adorable silver jewellery, Pitimini’s practical and stylish leather bags, and pretty notebooks and dresses by Notoria. The designers who run the shop are happy to explain the items, and their friendly attitude makes a visit to Montón one of BA’s most enjoyable shopping experiences. Ground floor, Apartment A, Paraguay 5512, y Ravignani (www.facebook.com/ juntamonton). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 12, 15, 29, 39, 55, 57, 59, 60, 64. Open 4-8pm Wed-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. Panorama In Buenos Aires’s thriving fashion industry, designers like Vanesa Krongold and Julia Schang-Vitón form part of a vibrant community of recent graduates who didn’t waste a second launching their own lines straight out of university, and they don’t disappoint. This small but well-stocked boutique is dedicated to promoting those up-and-coming designers, as well as other labels like Blackmamba (see p102) and Them (see p102). With all of that under one roof, Panorama is the perfect place to add some Argentinian spirit to your wardrobe. República de la India 2905, y Cabello (mobile 15 5005 0785/www.pnrm. com.ar). Bus 60, 67, 93, 95, 108, 110. Open 11am-9pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4.

Amores Trash Couture Fans of 1980s fashion should make sure to stop by this space for party dresses and sexy separates, particularly influenced by BA’s 1980s trash fashion moment. Lace, leopard, and !Pesqueira metallics are plentiful If fictitious figures but modified to fit from French films were modern trends. That to hit the streets of BA Sustainable fashion doesn’t mean they’ve on a shopping spree, Check our box in the lost their flashy, Around Town section (see Pesqueira would be attention-grabbing Amélie’s first port of p117) to find out about edge though; mixing call. Innocent shops making stylish, these pieces into your insouciance reigns at eco-friendly wardrobe will help you designer Valeria clothing. turn heads on the street or on Pesqueira’s Palermo store. the dancefloor. Head upstairs to The pretty womenswear check out the selection of vintage collections, full of sweet, feminine clothing and accessories, which isn’t all garments that are both classic and exclusively 1980s-centric. modern, are designed for the young at Pasaje Santa Rosa 4909, y Gurruchaga heart. Animal prints and marine(4831 9433/www.amorestrashcouture. inspired stripes are popular, and com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 57, 106. Pesqueira’s exclusively designed Open 8am-8pm daily. Credit AmEx, naïve-style motifs are plentiful. There MC, V. Map G3. is a wonderful collection of designer trainers that are the perfect Lupe memorabilia from this kitsch corner Fans of French brand Comptoir des store, while the printed laptop bags are Cotonniers should visit this Palermo indispensable for any modern ingénue. store for a local take on understated Gurruchaga 1750, y Pasaje Russel femininity with a touch of rock chic. (4833 7218/www.pesqueiratm.com). The bright, spacious outlet is the Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 110. Open perfect place to pick up pretty daywear 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 3-7pm Sun. in fabrics like washed silk and pure Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. wool, and knowledgeable staff can help you select an original piece for a Seco more formal occasion. Seco’s fun reversible rain macs are designed to reflect your mood, even if El Salvador 4666, y Armenia (4832 it’s prone to swing unexpectedly. 6743/www.lupeba.com.ar). Bus 15, 39. Colourful floral prints on one side are Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2.30-8pm bound to perk you up, while the plain Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.


Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 103



New in town Guadalupe Martiarena

Guadalupe Martiarena trained as an architect, but leather is truly what’s in her blood. Her father was a leather maker, and the family background shows in Guadalupe’s namesake brand of handmade leather bags, in which she manipulates the material into just about every colour, style and shape. Bags from the Mix line have a checked pattern of multicoloured leather, with no two bags alike, while the Pampa line features classic black and brown leather mini-backpacks that wouldn’t look out of place on the backs of Alicia Silverstone and her gang in Clueless. If investing in a leather bag is on your Buenos Aires agenda, you’ve come to the right shop. Julián Alvarez 1419, y Gorriti (4833 6750/www.guadalupemartiarena.com). Bus 15, 36, 39, 57, 99, 106, 140. Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F2.

reverse is a little more low-key. There is also a small range of T-shirts and dresses with cute motifs for those who want to enjoy Seco’s aesthetic on dry days. Wellington boots, trainers, bikinis, hats and, of course, umbrellas are also stocked. Armenia 1646, entre El Salvador y Honduras (4833 1166/www. secorainwear.com). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, 57, 106, 110, 140, 141, 151, 160. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. !Tupã At the end of a grassy path leading to a classic Palermo propiedad horizontal, you’ll find Tupã, home to the unique work of up-and-coming designers Julia Schang-Vitón, Agustín Yarde Buller and Martín Boerr. The homey yet modern setting perfectly matches their sleek and contemporary designs, all of which are arranged thoughtfully in various rooms. Chat with the friendly designers who often man the store themselves, and evidently take great delight in telling customers the unique story behind each and every piece. Lafinur 3132, entre Cabello y Avenida Cerviño (2077 8563/www.tupatupa. com.ar). Bus 10, 37, 47, 57, 59, 60, 67, 93, 95, 103, 118, 128, 130, 160. Open 11am-5pm Mon; 11am-8pm Tue-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4.


Bensimon Bensimon’s sophisticated take on casual cool is perfect for metrosexual types looking for toned down but trendy gear. Slim-fitting trousers and T-shirts, lightweight knits and skimpy leather jackets are ideal for lean-bodied twentysomethings keen to attain an unfussy, informal look. Honduras 4876, entre Armenia y Gurruchaga (4833 6857/www. bensimon.com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 55, 57. Open 11am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; 2-8.30pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Other locations Quintana 492, Recoleta (4807 5218); Alto Palermo shopping centre, Palermo (5777 8011); and branches throughout the city. !Bolivia If you’re the type to carry a manbag and you don’t mind having your sexuality speculated upon, have a gander at Bolivia’s garments. Floral print shirts and shockingly bright knitwear are a far cry from macho menswear; and don’t be fooled by the dark pinstripe suits – though they may appear relatively tame on the outside, the leopard print linings are anything but subtle. If you find that your outfit still requires that extra je ne sais quoi, accessorise with a printed scarf or a brightly coloured tote. The brand offers equally bold

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womenswear and childrenswear lines as well. Gurruchaga 1581, entre Gorriti y Honduras (4832 6284/www. boliviaonline.com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 39. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 3-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Other locations Nicaragua 4908, Palermo (4832 6409); Costa Rica 4672, Palermo (4831 0478). Bowen Boys who are into the retro-chic look will love London-inspired Bowen. The look is both soft and hard, with biker jackets, leather boots, cotton hoodies and T-shirts among the mix. It’s a top spot to pick up urban casual wear with a rock ’n’ roll edge sure to boost your sex appeal. Gurruchaga 1548, y Pasaje Soria (4831 1710/www.bowenlondon.com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 110, 151, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Other locations Abasto shopping centre, Abasto (4959 3629); Alto Palermo shopping centre, Palermo (5777 8254); and branches throughout the city. Cuggini With its bold patterned shirts and funky shorts and trousers in all the colours of the rainbow, this Palermo store is for men who want to look

smart while making a statement. Friendly staff will help you decide whether to invest in a flowery pink or checked yellow and orange shirt, or brighten your standard white button-up with a cheerful tie, bow tie or braces. A larger store in Almagro has more stock and frequent sales. Honduras 4815, y Armenia (4833 3146/www.cuggini.com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 57, 106, 110, 140. Open 10.30am-8.30pm Tue-Sat; noon-8.30pm Sun, Mon. Credit MC, V. Map G3. Other location Avenida Boedo 502, Almagro (3530 9863). Etiqueta Negra From the impressive window displays to the vintage motorbike inside the store, Etiqueta Negra oozes elegance. Cultivate effortless chic with slick suits and Italian cotton shirts – ideal for aspiring Clooney types – or buy yourself a bit of old-school cool with Steve McQueen-style subtly worn-in jeans, timeless T-shirts, cashmere-mix knitwear and silky soft leather jackets. All perfect for the refined rebel with a healthy bank balance. There’s also a small smart-casual range for women. Honduras 4850, entre Gurruchaga y Armenia (4833 2474/www. etiquetanegra.us). Bus 15, 34, 39, 151. Open 10am-8.30pm Mon-Fri; 10am-9pm Sat; 1-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Other locations Patio Bullrich shopping centre, Recoleta (4814 7430); Arguibel 2835, Las Cañitas (4776 9818). Félix Félix’s minimalistic store on calle Honduras perfectly complements the brand’s neat street style. Founded by Martín Egozcue, the label has drawn comparisons to English designer Paul Smith and has established a following among hip types happy to spend time and cash cultivating an image of effortless cool. If you’ve dreamed of being snapped by a street-style spotter, hotfoot it down to this store, then work on the art of loitering decoratively. The factory outlet also stocks togs for trendy sprogs. Honduras 4916, y Gurruchaga (4832 2164/www.felixba.com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 110, 160. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-9pm Sat; 2.30-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Other locations Factory outlet, Godoy Cruz 1645, Palermo (4833 1444); Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (5777 6593). Key Biscayne Key Biscayne’s distinctive crab logo can be spotted on billboards and advertisements around town, but after a stop in the Palermo Soho store, it’s clear this Argentinian menswear chain is aimed squarely at the anti-corporate metrosexual. Comfy hooded cardigans, denim chambray shirts, colourful shorts and T-shirts in bright, beach-ready colours are in stock all year round, even if the weather doesn’t call for it. Armenia 1735, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador (4833 2104/www.keybiscayne. com.ar). Bus 39, 55, 110, 141. Open 11am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; 1-8.30pm Sun.

Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Other locations Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (4807 5282); Alto Palermo shopping centre, Palermo (5777 8007). JEWELLERY

Manu Lizarralde Right in the heart of Palermo Soho, Manu Lizarralde’s showroom positively glows with an array of precious stones, from purple amethysts, green emeralds and champagne coloured topaz to golden rutile and quartz crystal. Each stone is handcrafted from scratch, so if you are looking for a glamorous gift from the rose quartz heart of the world, this is a dazzling hit. Gorriti 5078, entre Thames y Serrano (4832 6252/www.manulizarralde.com). Bus 34, 39. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Other location San Martín 1107, Retiro (4314 4379). Patrón This delightful jewellery and accessories store stocks statement pieces by both established and up-and-coming Argentinian designers. Artistic displays ensure the presentation is just as lovely as the merchandise itself. In addition to an exceptional range of must-have jewellery there are limited edition pieces like leather jackets and colourful silk scarves. A newly-expanded collection of home decor that includes stunning porcelain vases and intricately hand-painted ceramic bowls proves hard to resist. The owner, jewellery designer Laura Patrón Costas, also curates a small art gallery in the shop’s basement that is well worth checking out. Malabia 1644, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4831 0351/www.patronba. com). Bus 15, 36, 39, 55, 57, 110, 140, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. LEATHER GOODS

Doma If Kate Moss or Sienna Miller were in town and on the hunt for a leather jacket, Doma is where they’d go to find it. Forget shapeless old school classics – this brand is all about keeping up with the latest trends on the street, and it has reinvented the biker jacket to make it sexier than ever. There’s something for the rock chick too in the ‘American’ collection of

Humawaca At Humawaca, classic Argentinian leather meets innovative shapes and colours. Clutches, slouchy shoulder bags and structured handbags come in almost every colour imaginable, including bright pink, cherry red, sky blue, deep brown, or some combination of them. An expert design team was brought on board to develop bags that fuse modern technology with Humawaca’s signature style; for example, the leather and suede iPod shoulder bag allows the user to change the music via controls on the bag’s strap. If you go a little crazy with souvenir shopping during your stay, Humawaca also sells large bags suited for travel. El Salvador 4692, y Armenia (4832 2662/www.humawaca.com). Bus 39, 55, 151, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Fri; 2.30-7.30pm Sat; 3-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.


925nueveveinticinco Designer Mario Paluch works with silver, gold, wood and semi-precious stones like malachite, amber and rhodochrosite to create unique, eye-catching designs. Get a piece custom-made, or choose from huge, chunky rings combining silver and ebony from the Madera line or from colourful, mosaic-like examples in the Gaudí range. Other options include a striking silver ring composed of numerous coils, as well as woven silver cuffs from guest designer Lilia Breyter. Honduras 4808, y Armenia (4833 5343/www.nueveveinticinco.com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 55, 57, 140, 151, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

jackets, which comes in a range of colours from classic dulce de leche and charcoal to electric blue. Much of the top-quality stock is made from velvety soft sheep’s leather. Pick up a vintage-style bag or a pair of suede heels to complete the boho-chic look. El Salvador 4693, y Armenia (4831 6852/www.doma-leather.com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 110. Open 10.30am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat; 1.30-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Other locations Martha Salotti 424, Puerto Madero (5787 5180); Gurruchaga 711, Villa Crespo (2058 7124).

Jackie Smith Plastic at the ready, ladies: these classic, feminine leather bags and shoes are too tempting to leave behind. The Bellini range with its glossy, black peep-toe heels and glamorous tote with a snakeskin effect is ideal for a Park Avenue princess – think Charlotte from Sex and the City. These timeless totes, purses, shoulder bags, ballet pumps and boots are wardrobe staples with a twist of textured leather and eye-catching, modern colours. Gurruchaga 1660, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4115 6820/www. jackiesmith.com). Bus 15, 34. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; noon-7pm Sat, Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Other locations Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (5777 6631); Galerías Pacífico shopping centre, Microcentro (4313 6114). Milla This is a must for leather-lovers keen to stand out from the everyday leather-clad crowd. Twin brother designers Diego and Sebastián Smolkin have done the Argentinian leather industry proud by creating quality pieces that incorporate sophistication and innovation. Jackets, bags, belts and accessories can be found in classic shades and designs, but what makes this collection shine is the vibrant colours – turquoise, purples, yellows and reds which, along with punky studs and zippers give the leather staples a cool individuality. Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 105

Armenia 1534, entre Gorriti y Honduras (4831 4447/www.millastore. com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 151. Open 2-7pm Thu-Mon. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.



Belle Époque If Buenos Aires’s bounteous supply of steamy, lavishly frilled lingerie is a little too agent provocateur for your taste, Belle Époque offers a range that is slightly more demure, while remaining obviously feminine. Owner Marisol Finkielsztoym stocks beautifully crafted, elegant pieces with a retro, timeless quality. But if the designs attract a sophisticated clientele, the prices definitely demand a credit card to match. Costa Rica 4833, entre Thames y Jorge Luis Borges (4833 6860). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140, 151, 168. Open 1-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. SHOES – WOMEN’S

Céntrico Classic leather meets modern design at this stylish men’s and women’s shoe shop. The high ceilings, minimalist decor and repurposed theatre seats make the space feel more like a chic loft than a typical shop. Céntrico also sells leather belts and jackets, skinny jeans, backpacks and even ceramics, but the soft yellow Oxfords, grey ankle boots and traditional men’s brogues are the stars here. The shoes are handmade and the prices reflect that, but head to the back of the store for discounted pairs. Francisco Acuña de Figueroa 1800, y Julián Alvarez (4865 0143/www. centrico.com.ar). Bus 15, 36, 39, 57, 110, 111, 141, 160, 188. Open 11am-7.30pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5.30pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F3.

Armenia 1687, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4831 4033/www. josefinaferroni.com.ar). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, 55, 57, 106, 110, 140, 141, 151. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Miki & Choya Inés Figueroa Alcorta’s boutique shoe line is a huge hit with local celebrities and the city’s coolest fashionistas. Inés mixes quirky patterns, fabrics and embellishments to create some rather sassy porteño brogues, boots and sandals. Elaborate details make an everyday pair of ballet flats or loafers an extra special buy. Ugarteche 3306, entre Seguí y Avenida del Libertador (mobile 15 6299 1593/ www.mikichoya.com.ar). Bus 10, 37, 60, 110, 118, 128. Open 2.30-7.30pm Mon-Fri by appt. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G5. !Mishka Trends are given a retro slant at Mishka with footwear that appeals to everyone from teenagers and thirtysomethings to the more mature customer with an appreciation of the brand’s creative designs. Comfortable platforms with wooden or cork soles come in a variety of colours, and are the perfect combination of throwback and trendy. There is also an elegant line of clothing and accessories. El Salvador 4673, entre Armenia y Malabia (4833 6566/www.mishkashoes. com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 55, 57, 110, 140.

Chicco Ruiz Designer Lourdes Chicco Ruiz’s boutique, which shares a space with clothing store DAM, is ideal for women who are keen to indulge their Cinderella fantasies. Besides offering a collection of pretty, handmade styles – from classic leather ankle boots to unconventional sculptural heels – in 15 to 20 days Chicco Ruiz can also produce a customised pair of shoes, starting from AR$1200. Thames 1780, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador (4831 1264/www. lourdeschiccoruiz.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140, 151, 166. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, V. Map G3. Josefina Ferroni Josefina Ferroni’s highly desirable collections have won her fans across South America, Europe and the US, and have led to collaborations with noted local fashion designers like Mariana Dappiano. Merging quality, style and comfort, Ferroni’s shoes succeed in combining elegance with practicality. For sophisticated sandals or gorgeous leather boots made not just for posing but also for walking, stop by and check out what’s new in Ferroni’s latest collection.

Open 10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Other locations Balcarce 1011, San Telmo (4361 5279); Guido 1539, Recoleta (4816 4816); Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (5777 6540). SHOES – MEN’S

28 Sport As its name suggests, 28 Sport takes its design cues from original sports footwear from the 1930s to the 1950s. The quality harks back to that era as well; all the shoes are hand stitched, with leather lining and reinforced toes, details that are hard to come by in modern footwear. These shoes and lace-up boots come in a multitude of colours and are moulded from original hockey, hiking, climbing, football, boxing and bowling designs. Unlike other brands with such a strong focus on quality and tradition, 28 Sport’s products are decidedly unstuffy and, better still, they are produced in limited editions. Get your hands on one of the extra-special pairs made only once, in just one size. Gurruchaga 1481, entre Cabrera y Gorriti (4833 4287/www.28sport.com). Bus 15, 168. Open 11.30am-1.30pm, 3-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. Apuesto Apuesto’s range of handmade footwear is a showcase of understated sophistication. Simple designs in browns and blacks ooze class and

quality, while the charming leather espadrilles are perfect for BA’s fresh autumnal days. To complete the look, check out the brand new line of cotton shirts and fine Peruvian pima T-shirts, especially designed to complement your shiny new shoes. El Salvador 5772, y Carranza (4772 4206/www.apuestoba.com). Bus 39, 57, 93. Open 2-8pm Mon-Fri; 2-10pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. Terán In this black lacquered, minimalist shop, designer Gonzalo Terán’s exquisite footwear for discerning gentlemen is the focus of attention. Expert artisans craft Terán’s designs with a range that includes the likes of lace-up boots and suede moccasins. His Oxfords in pink suede or patent leather are perfect for trendy officewear. Thames 1855, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (4831 7264/www.teran.com. ar). Bus 34, 36, 39, 55, 93, 111. Open noon-8.30pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Other location San Martín 1088, Retiro (4313 9014). FOOD AND DRINK

!Malambo Cheery porteño Alejandro Soler offers a friendly, customised service at his Palermo Soho vinoteca and deli. He’ll passionately talk you through each wine label you’re interested in and let you try before you buy his quality cheeses and hams. A great place for gifts, this gourmet Aladdin’s den also stocks hard-to-find imported goods popular with homesick expats, such as Ecuadorian chocolate, rye crispbread, Tabasco sauce and Heinz ketchup. Thames 2098, y Guatemala (4778 0870). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 34, 36, 39, 55, 57, 95, 111, 152, 160, 166. Open 11am-9pm, Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. The Pick Market New York has Dean & DeLuca, but Buenos Aires has few places where your eyes can feast as much as your stomach. This gourmet café and produce store fills that void, stocking the pick of the local and imported crop. Think fresh fruit and vegetables, meats and cheeses, baked goods, tea and coffee. Grab a bottle of wine (no corkage to drink it in the café), an Illy coffee and a cheese platter and turn your grocery shopping from a chore into a treat. Ugarteche 3154, y Avenida Cerviño (4806 5259/www.thepickmarket.com. ar). Bus 37, 41. Open 10am-9.30pm Sun-Tue; 10am-midnight Wed-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G4. Other locations Libertad 1212, Recoleta (0800 777 0204); Demaría 4527, Palermo (4772 2697).

Cualquier Verdura (see p94)

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Sugar & Spice When Frank Almeida couldn’t find cookies like the ones he liked back home in Chicago, he enlisted the help of his wife Fabiana and they started baking them themselves. They’ve since branched out into pound cake – called budín here – as well as New York-style

bagels, brownies, biscotti and stollen. The fruity pan dulce (panettone) is a local favourite and the store also stocks a small range of loose-leaf tea. Guatemala 5419, entre Humboldt y Avenida Juan B Justo (4777 5423/ www.sugarandspice.com.ar). Bus 29, 39, 60, 64, 67, 68, 111, 161. Open 10am-1pm, 2-7pm Mon-Fri; 9am-1pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. WINE

Siete Spirits Wines from all over the New World are stocked floor-to-ceiling in this snug little shop, but the speciality is Argentinian tinto (red) produced in small wineries, from Patagonia to Salta and everywhere in between. If wine isn’t your area of expertise the knowledgeable, friendly staff will point you in the right direction, and discounts when you buy six or more bottles might have you upping your baggage allowance. To try before you buy, don’t miss the shop’s free weekly tastings, held on Thursdays between 6pm and 8pm. Nicaragua 5942, entre Arévalo y Ravignani (4779 2823/www.sietespirits. com). Subte D, Ministro Carranza/bus 39, 93, 168. Open noon-8pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. BIKING

Mµvin BA’s ever-expanding bike lanes make cycling an increasingly popular mode of transportation, so of course stylish cycling gear is a necessity. Located along the Gorriti bike path, Mµvin fits the bill. The colourful and modern store presents a stylish mix of form and function, with bike accessories like locks, chains, helmets and baskets in chic prints and colours to spiff up even the most dreary two-wheeler. The bicycles are the pièce de résistance and likely a source of eye candy and envy for every cyclist who passes by. There’s also a rack of bike-friendly clothing, such as jackets with built-in reflectors, to complete your ‘cycle chic’ look. Gorriti 5051, entre Thames y Serrano (4833 2154/www.muvin.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 55. Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. TRADITIONAL CRAFTS

Arte Étnico Argentino Beyond the pretty courtyard of this shop are a couple of rooms – one full of beautiful, bright textiles; the other

!Elementos Argentinos Fernando Bach and Pablo Mendívil stock a selection of irresistible textile art and other unique objects at their Palermo store, where English-speaking staff are on hand to help. Handmade by craftspeople from the northern provinces of Argentina, the pieces range from blankets and cushions to toys, furniture and an absolutely stunning stock of one-of-a-kind hand-loomed rugs. Gurruchaga 1881, entre Nicaragua y Costa Rica (4832 6299/www. elementosargentinos.com.ar). Bus 39, 93, 161. Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. Other location Arenales 1321, Recoleta (4811 0653).

Abasto and Once

A little rough around the edges, Abasto is home to the massive Abasto de Buenos Aires shopping centre. Neighbouring Once (pronounced ‘on-say’) is a warren of wholesale fabric stores. SHOPPING CENTRES

Abasto de Buenos Aires This converted fruit market is one of the finest examples of art deco architecture in the city, which makes it a great venue for window shopping. It’s also a magnet for hordes of teenagers, though there are stores for all ages and tastes. Abasto contains a kids’ play area, a cinema, a large food court with a kosher McDonalds (the only one outside of Israel) and some 230 shops, including Bowen, Zara and Rapsodia. Be warned: this shopping centre is hectic at the weekend. Avenida Corrientes 3247, entre Agüero y Anchorena (4959 3400/www. abasto-shopping.com.ar). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 26, 29, 64, 68, 71, 118, 124, 168. Open 10am-10pm daily. Credit varies. Map E3.

Belgrano, Colegiales and Villa Crespo Venture beyond Palermo into these up-and-coming neighbourhoods for bargain leather goods and factory outlet stores offering discounted

clothing. (Calle Murillo in Villa Crespo is leather central). The Mercado de las Pulgas (see p110) is an atmospheric, furniture-filled flea market, easy to get lost in for an afternoon. FASHION – CHAINS

Kosiuko When Britney Spears shoehorned herself into a pair of Kosiuko jeans for her ‘Overprotected’ video clip, it did wonders for raising the profile (and revenue) of the Argentinian streetwear label. Jeans and accessories are timeless Kosiuko staples, while the label also offers a rocker-inspired men’s line and cute options for kids. Avenida Cabildo 1940, entre Echeverría y Sucre, Belgrano (4788 8228/www.kosiuko.com). Bus 55, 151. Open 9.30am-9pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Other locations throughout the city. FASHION – BOUTIQUES

Balaciano At Marina Balaciano’s shop-cumshowroom, you can browse the rails of this designer’s pretty womenswear. Among the top-quality fabrics employed in Marina’s designs are satin, cashmere, Italian wool and French lace, and interesting details include embroidery and Swarovski crystal decoration. Romantic dresses and chic coats are trademark pieces. Zabala 2939, entre Conesa y Zapiola, Colegiales (mobile 15 3196 1641). Bus 151, 168. Open 8am-8pm Mon-Sat by appt. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Reunión Reunión is more than just a shop, it’s a collective of designers dedicated to sharing ideas and creativity. That’s not to say that the wares it sells aren’t worth mentioning, quite the opposite; the small space stocks a range of products, with clothes, jewellery and bags from local brands like Bastardo BA, Floresta and Emedemarta. If clothes and accessories don’t tickle your fancy, there’s even stationery, books, small plants and a small selection of wines and jams available to purchase. Reunión isn’t just limited to selling the arts, though, it also fosters them, having hosted workshops on illustrating, writing and sewing in the past. Conde 2127, y Juramento (4542 7449/ www.enreunion.com.ar). Bus 19, 67. Open 2-7pm Wed, Thu; 3.30-8.30pm Fri, Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Unión Tienda Tucked away in a mostly residential area of Belgrano, this shop sells a whimsical mix of clothing, accessories, jewellery and home wares. Eclectic though its selection may be, every item is the product of local designers. Standouts include hand-painted ceramic bowls from brand Flinckii, knitwear from expat designer Elizabeth Gleeson’s line, URSA, and delicate, laser-cut T-shirts and sweaters from Petite M. And for when you’ve hardly got room in your suitcase, make a stop at the gorgeous display of jewellery. 3 de Febrero 2086, y Juramento, Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 107


Lo de Joaquín Alberdi Step inside this attractive old house close to Palermo’s Plaza Serrano and let the enthusiastic, well-informed staff guide you through the wide range of wines. Boutique bodegas are especially well represented – some of the names to look out for include Achaval Ferrer and De Angeles. Stop by on Thursday or Friday at 7.30pm for a wine tasting. Jorge Luis Borges 1772, entre El Salvador y Costa Rica (4832 5329/ www.lodejoaquinalberdi.com). Bus 34, 55, 110, 141. Open 11am-9.30pm Mon-Sat; noon-9.30pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

packed with an assortment of painted wardrobes, lovely leather and carob wood tables, colourful saint boxes made from recycled wood, and chairs hanging from the ceiling. The pieces are all handmade by the QuichuaSantiagueño peoples of the relatively unvisited northern province of Santiago del Estero. El Salvador 4656, entre Armenia y Malabia (4832 0516/www. arteetnicoargentino.com). Bus 34, 55, 140, 141, 151, 160, 168. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-2pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3.

Best in show


Buenos Aires’s best fashion is found behind closed doors. Time Out shares its pick of the most stylish appointment-only showrooms

Julia Alvarez and Catalina Semilla

Vanesa Krongold Vanesa Krongold’s psychedelic prints mix fantasy with elegance for a style that’s suitable for far more than just fashion-forward hipsters. Combine a printed jumper with matching slacks for a truly daring look, or mix items like pencil skirts, T-shirt dresses and collared shirts into your wardrobe for a fantastic jolt of colour. Look out for events at this showroom. Address provided at time of booking, Chacarita (4553 1741/ www.vanesakrongold.com). Manto Abrigos This stunning Villa Crespo showroom stocks gorgeous, one of a kind, ethically-made coats, jackets, sweaters and accessories. Andean weavers construct the textiles by hand and prices reflect the artisan process, but the quality of the brand’s printed trenches, chic cocoon coats and wool sweaters is undeniable. The designs are as stylish as they come, but these are pieces that’ll last a lifetime. Apartment A, 1st floor, Unit D, Darwin 1154, Villa Crespo (info@ mantoabrigos.com.ar/www. mantoabrigos.com.ar). Blit Bags Designer George Visir’s Palermo showroom is filled to the brim with luxurious leather bags including slouchy carryalls, structured crocodile skin handbags and colourful clutches, all available for wholesale prices. The gregarious designer ensures all clients get the VIP treatment – and we do mean VIP, past clients include supermodel Christy Turlington. Address provided at time of booking, Palermo (4832 3494/ www.shopblit.com).

Bimba Vintage Jazmín Rodríguez recently relocated her vintage clothing showroom from Palermo to Recoleta, but the shop’s mint condition pieces remain a favourite for Buenos Aires’s most fashionable. Spend a day browsing the racks of dresses, shoes, bags and jewellery and you’re bound to stumble upon more than a few gems. Local 16, Libertad 958, Recoleta (mobile 15 5473 5419/ bimbavintage.wix.com). Dinamarca What started off as a project between friends quickly caught the eye of football stars, musicians and artists, all clamouring for Dinamarca’s printed menswear shirts. Designers Lisandro and Diego take their inspiration from Nordic styles, the speakeasy era and nature, and are expanding the line to include outerwear. You can also get your hands on the brand at Verbo in Plaza Serrano (see p117). Address provided at time of booking, Palermo (lisandro@ riedinamarca.com/www. riedinamarca.com). Julia Alvarez and Catalina Semilla Located on a quiet street in Colegiales, this showroom and workshop has delicate and affordable jewellery and homeware crafted by Julia Alvarez and Catalina Dupont. Silver rings, wooden necklaces and colourful pins all come in under the AR$600 mark and, should you feel inspired, you can sign up to make your own at jewellery classes. Address provided at time of booking, Colegiales (mobile 15 6004 0430/www.facebook.com/ julialavarezjoyeria.com).

108 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

Belgrano (4783 1253). Bus 15, 29, 42, 44, 55, 60, 63, 64, 80, 107, 113, 114. Open 4-8pm Mon-Fri; noon-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. FASHION – DESIGNER

JT Hidden among mechanical workshops in Villa Crespo, clothing designer Jessica Trosman’s shop-cum-factory is a triumph of urban design. The unique, high-end garments contrast beautifully with the plain cement floor and corrugated metal ceiling and are illuminated by an abundance of natural light. The brand’s motto ‘Not to be understood’ is reflected in the unconventional cuts, light, luxurious fabrics and interesting textures of investment pieces designed for the seriously stylish. Weary shoppers can step through the sliding door to the equally glorious café Yeite (see p22), or gaze in awe at the factory at the back of the shop, where Trosman began her career 20 years ago. Humboldt 291, y Murillo (4857 6009/ www.jtbyjt.com). Subte B, Dorrego/bus 19, 45, 55, 65, 71, 76, 93, 108, 109. Open 11am-7pm daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H1. FASHION – CHILDREN’S AND MATERNITY

Health and beauty HAIRDRESSERS

Cerini A flawless finish is what Cerini’s all about. Colouring, roll-brush drying, trims, manicures and pedicures are done by professional stylists and foreign visitors swear this is a safe place to get your hair cut. Highlights are done old school style, with a cap, but this is common practice in BA, and they come out fine. Marcelo T de Alvear 1471, entre Paraná y Uruguay, Recoleta (4813 3594/www.cerini.net). Bus 10, 17, 39. Open 8am-10pm Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. Other locations Sucre 2245, Belgrano (4787 3400); Alcorta Shopping, Palermo (4800 1815). Portrait Peluquería This Parisian-style salon, presided over by the talented hairstylist Ramiro de Vooght, offers quality service in a luxurious environment secluded from city sounds and stresses. Massages and waxing are also offered. Gorriti 4687, entre Armenia y Malabia, Palermo (4833 3736/www. portraitpeluqueria.com). Bus 15, 39, 140, 141, 151. Open 11am-8pm Tue-Sat. Credit MC, V. Map G2.

Mimo & Co Mimo has been bringing its practical, Roho Hair Boutique modern clothing to boys and girls for more than three decades, with products There’s a reason Oscar Fernández’s famed salon has been going for over that include garments, footwear and 20 years. The first cutting edge hair accessories for newborns to 12 year salon to open in Buenos Aires, Roho olds. There are ladylike coats, snug maintains its finger firmly on the pulse Fair Isle-inspired knitwear, faux fur of the latest trends year after year. gilets, sweet shorts, hooded Its reputation as a salon to tops, cargo pants and rock stars (it was a practical rain jackets. In favourite for local rock fact, it’s all so adorably royalty Luis Alberto Cash discounts cute, you’ll wish they Spinetta and Gustavo Many shops offer had it in adult sizes. discounts if you pay in Cerati) precedes it, but Gurruchaga 935, y cash, check by asking Roho’s friendly and Loyola, Villa Crespo ‘¿Hay un descuento en approachable stylists (5197 5562/www.mimo. efectivo?’. make absolutely com.ar). Bus 15, 19, 24, everyone feel welcome. 34, 55, 57, 90, 106, 109, Malabia 1931, y Nicaragua 110, 127, 140. Open 11am-8pm (4833 7227/www.roho.com.ar). Bus Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, 15, 36, 39, 55, 57, 110, 160. Open MC, V. Map G3. 10am-8pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, Other locations Avenida Santa Fe MC, V. Map G3. 1922, Recoleta (4811 0915); and Other location República de la branches throughout the city. Indonesia 66, Caballito (4904 0236).



Murillo 666 On this stretch of calle Murillo between Scalabrini Ortiz and Gurruchaga, there are plenty of outlets that offer leather jackets at below bargain-basement prices. Murillo 666 stands out for its huge selection, which includes handbags, belts, wallets, luggage and even sofas: if you want it, you’ll probably find it here, and if not here, then it will almost certainly be in one of the other leather stores on the block. Murillo 666, entre Acevedo y Malabia, Villa Crespo (4856 4501/www. murillo666.com.ar). Subte B, Malabia/ bus 15, 19, 24, 42, 55, 57, 76, 109, 112. Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; 10am-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G1.

Terrie Orr Anyone who has gone in for a trim and stepped out with a mullet will appreciate this Irish hairdresser’s attentiveness to instructions and detail. Friendly, professional and thorough, Terrie works from her Palermo apartment and specialises in colour corrections. She is also a qualified HD brow therapist. Address provided at time of booking, Palermo (mobile 15 3432 4141/ terrie.orr@gmail.com). Subte D, Palermo/bus 10, 37, 130, 160. Open 9am-9.30pm Mon-Sat by appt. No credit cards. Map H4. OPTICIANS

!Carla Di Sí Innovative local eyewear designer Carla Di Sí has her own classy and sassy line,

with an emphasis on handmade frames. Colourful cat-eye glasses and hexagonal tortoiseshell lenses are perfect accessories for any fashionista. Vintage fans will also love the selection of antique frames sourced by Carla’s optician grandfather. The service here is attentive and honest – much appreciated when you’re squinting away at your bespectacled reflection. Gurruchaga 1677, entre El Salvador y Honduras, Palermo (4832 1655/www. carladisi.com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 4-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

and a range of beauty products, Queenies is top of the list with the ultimate stylists in town. Fitz Roy 1879, y Costa Rica, Palermo (4899 0746/www.queeniesbuenosaires. com). Bus 34, 39, 57, 93, 108, 111, 166. Open 10am-7.30pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. SPAS AND MASSAGES

Infinit Boutique The stock at this cool eyewear emporium usually includes tortoiseshell frames that are reminiscent of vintage specs, cat-eye frames with metallic detailing in the corners, and sunglasses in a variety of shapes and colours. Thames 1602, y Honduras, Palermo (4831 7070/www.infinit.la). Bus 34, 39, 55, 151, 168. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 3-7pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.

Nicola Tarbuck Massage and physical therapist Nicola Tarbuck’s past clients include Robert Plant, Bruce Springsteen and the entire cast of Cirque du Soleil. Luckily for us mere mortals, she now offers her fantastic services from the same Palermo apartment as hairdresser Terrie Orr (see p108). Thanks to over 12 years of experience, Tarbuck can pinpoint the source of aches and pains, easing them out slowly with her capable hands. She also specialises in back pain and post-injury rehabilitation, and provides a range of services to pregnant ladies. Address provided at the time of booking, Palermo (mobile 15 6661 6836/nicolatarbuck@gmail.com). Subte D, Palermo/bus 10, 37, 57, 130, 160, 166. Open 9am-8pm Mon-Fri; noon-3pm Sat by appt. No credit cards. Map H4.

Palo Santo What began as an industrial design project at the University of Buenos Aires has morphed into a stylish, successful business. The woodenframed sunglasses at Palo Santo (named after a type of wood indigenous to Argentina) hit just the right mix of eco-friendly and chic. Thanks to the innovative material, even the most retro-inspired wayfarers feel modern. And while wooden sunglasses may seem impractical, rest assured these quality frames are water-resistant. If you fall in love but are not blessed with perfect vision, ask owner Juan Ignacio Ronzini for a pair with prescription lenses. Keep your eyes peeled for further innovation from this young and original brand. Bonpland 2215, y Guatemala (4778 9509). Bus 12, 15, 29, 39, 93, 111. Open 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri; 3-7.30pm Sat. Credit MC, V. Map H3.

Spa Castelar A great value spa in the centre of the city, the Spa Castelar is open to non-guests of the Castelar hotel and is divided into male and female sectors. Relax in the saunas or pop into the Turkish and Finnish baths, or try a stress-relieving massage. Avenida de Mayo 1148, entre Salta y Lima, Congreso (4381 4037/www. castelarhotel.com.ar). Subte A, Lima/ bus 2, 5, 8, 9, 10, 17, 24, 29, 39, 45. Open Men 11am-9pm Mon-Fri; 9am-8pm Sat. Women noon-9pm Mon-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4.


FarmaCity This mega-chain has plenty of well-stocked stores across the city, and most are open 24 hours and offer delivery services. Remember that some prescriptions cannot be filled outside your home country. Florida 474, entre Avenida Corrientes y Lavalle, Microcentro (4322 6559/ www.farmacity.com). Subte B, Florida/ bus 10, 22, 105, 140. Open 24hrs daily. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C5. Other locations throughout the city.



Queenies Treating oneself has never been so easy at this nail parlour turned all-inclusive beauty salon. Nails are the hottest accessory in BA and here you can get a daring animal-print manicure and glamorous ‘nail-overs’. Afterwards, step next door into the new beauty salon where you can get your face cleansed, plucked and pampered. Offering luxurious facial treatments

Montón Junta de Diseño (see p103)

The Beauty Saloon Hairlessness is big business in this city, but if grinning and baring it all in any old backstreet dive is not your idea of a rip-roaring time, then head to the depilación experts at this sleek Recoleta boutique. As well as waxing every nook and cranny, they have nailed the art of manis and pedis, and also offer massages and facial treatments. Uriburu 1397, y French, Recoleta (2066 2671). Bus 10, 95, 102, 106, 108, 110, 118, 124, 152. Open 9am-8pm Tue-Sat. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4. Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 109


Home Spa The spa at Home Hotel (see p153) is the perfect place for a pampering experience after a hard day’s shopping in Palermo. Open to both guests and non-guests, the spa offers a range of treatments including Thai Shiatsu and hot stone massages. Honduras 5860, entre Carranza y Ravignani, Palermo (4778 1008/www. homebuenosaires.com). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 168. Open 10am-8pm Wed-Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2.


Shopping index


Feria Plaza Francia Handicrafts, leather bags, jewellery, scarves and paintings – you name it, you can buy it at this quality weekend arts and crafts fair just beside the Recoleta cemetery. Plaza Francia y Plaza Alvear, Avenida del Libertador y Avenida Pueyrredón, Recoleta (www.feriaplazafrancia.com). Bus 17, 62, 92, 93, 110. Open 11am-8pm Sat, Sun. Map E5. Feria de Mataderos This colourful food and crafts fair takes over the central square of Mataderos, a 45-min bus ride from the city centre. The fair is the place to come for a taste of the pampas and to buy authentic gaucho gear – think silver knives, leather belts, country hats; oh, and a whole load of dulce de leche. Entertainment takes the form of folkloric music and dancing, while riders display their prowess on horses. Avenida Lisandro de la Torre, y San Pedro, Mataderos (www.feriade mataderos.com.ar). Bus 55, 80, 92, 126. Open Mar-Dec 11am-8pm Sun; late Jan, Feb 5-9.30pm Sat. Feria San Pedro Telmo Stroll down calle Defensa and its surrounding streets on a Sunday to soak up the atmosphere of this fair. Marvel at the busking talent and check out hundreds of stalls selling antiques, handmade jewellery, tango memorabilia, paintings, funky clothing, second-hand books, leather accessories and a host of other items. As the sun goes down, you’ll see stallholders in Plaza Dorrego pack away their wares and part of the square transform into an atmospheric outdoor milonga (a social tango dance). Plaza Dorrego, y Defensa entre Avenida de Mayo y Avenida San Juan, San Telmo (www.feriadesantelmo.com). Bus 9, 10. Open 10am-5pm Sun. Map B4. Mercado de las Pulgas This cluttered flea market on the Colegiales/Palermo border focuses on antique furniture and quirky household items. Packed with atmosphere and random treasures, it’s a good alternative for fans of vintage who are tired of the more touristy and jam-packed weekend market in San Telmo. Conde y Dorrego, Colegiales (www. elmercadodepulgas.com.ar). Bus 39, 93. Open 2-6pm Tue-Sun. Map H2. Mercado de San Telmo This market, with various entrances including one opposite La Brigada (see p29), is a not only a great place to find fresh fruit, vegetables and meat, as well as antiques and leather goods, its stunning ironwork makes for a great spot for a photo-op. There are also a few second-hand record shops, and the deli sells parma ham, delicious mini alfajores, home-made jams and pickles and soft Argentinian cheeses. Defensa 961, entre Estados Unidos y Carlos Calvo, San Telmo. Bus 4, 8, 9, 24, 93, 129, 143. Open 8am-8pm daily. Map B4.

93 93

Biking Mµvin


Bookshops Alamut Libros Ateneo Grand Splendid Dain Usina Cultural Fedro San Telmo Libros del Pasaje Walrus Books

100 96 100 94 100 94

Design and home accessories Autoría BsAs Cualquier Verdura Fueguia L’Ago Nobrand Papelera Palermo Pehache Sabater Hermanos Salmón Tienda Violraviol

93 94 96 94 100 100 100 100 101 101

Fashion Boutiques Amores Trash Couture Balaciano Cultivo Diseño Lupe Montón Junta de Diseño Panorama Pesqueira Puntos en el Espacio Reunión Seco Tupã Unión Tienda

103 107 96 103 103 103 103 94 107 103 104 107

Chains Chocolate De la Ostia Kosiuko Las Pepas Paula Cahen D’Anvers Vitamina

96 101 107 96 101 102

Children and maternity Mimo & Co. Venga Madre

110 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

104 93

Shoes – Men’s 28 Sport Apuesto Terán

106 106 106

Shoes – Women’s Céntrico Chicco Ruiz Comme Il Faut Jessica Kessel Josefina Ferroni Miki & Choya Mishka

106 106 98 94 106 106 106

Vintage and used Bimba Vintage Galería 5ta Avenida Gil Antigüedades Juan Pérez Vittorita

108 98 94 98 93

Food and drink Malambo The Pick Market Sugar & Spice

106 106 106

Wine Lo de Joaquín Alberdi Siete Spirits

107 107

Health and beauty

Chicco Ruiz (see p106)

Antiques, art and collectibles Gabriel Del Campo Anticuario HB Antigüedades

Key Biscayne La Martina

108 98

Designer Agostina Bianchi Blackmamba Cecilia Gadea Cora Groppo Cubreme DODDS Dubié Garza Lobos JT Juana de Arco Manto Abrigos Them Tramando Vanesa Krongold Vestite y Andate Vevû

102 102 102 102 102 96 102 102 108 102 108 102 96 108 103 103

Jewellery 925nueveveintecinco Julia Alvarez and Catalina Semilla Manu Lizarralde Marcelo Toledo Oleana Patrón Plata Nativa Signos

105 108 105 94 98 105 93 94

Leather goods Blit Bags Casa Lopez Doma Guadalupe Martiarena Humawaca Jackie Smith Milla Murillo 666 Peter Kent Prüne Rossi & Caruso Santesteban

108 93 105 104 105 105 105 108 98 93 98 98

Lingerie and swimwear Belle Époque


Menswear Bensimon Bolivia Bowen Cuggini Dinamarca Etiqueta Negra Félix

104 104 104 104 108 104 104

Hairdressers Cerini Portrait Peluquería Roho Hair Boutique Terrie Orr

108 108 108 108

Opticians Carla Di Sí Infinit Boutique Palo Santo

108 109 109

Pharmacies FarmaCity


Manicurists Queenies


Spas and massages Home Spa Nicola Tarbuck Spa Castelar

109 109 109

Waxing The Beauty Saloon


Markets Feria Plaza Francia Feria de Mataderos Feria San Pedro Telmo Mercado de las Pulgas Mercado de San Telmo

110 110 110 110 110

Music Abraxas


Sports and outdoor gear Wildlife


Shopping centres Abasto de Buenos Aires Alcorta Shopping Alto Palermo Galería Bond Street Galería Patio del Liceo Galerías Pacífico Patio Bullrich Recoleta Mall

107 100 100 94 94 93 96 96

Traditional crafts Arandú Arte Étnico Argentino Elementos Argentinos Guaraní Porã

100 107 107 100

Arts & Leisure

Photograph: Foto Ruta

Around Town




Film & Media


Fitness & Sports


Gay & Lesbian




Performing Arts




Around Town MUESO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES Masterpieces by Van Gogh, Picasso, Antonio Berni and Xul Solar fill the walls of this museum. Originally built in the late 1800s as a drainage pumping station, the building has been impressively maintained. It occasionally ventures into the realms of modern art with exhibitions like Imaginos Eróticos (probably one you’ll want to avoid taking your folks to if they’re in town). See p122.

LA BRIGADA Bienvenidos al templo de la carne (welcome to the temple of beef), says La Brigada, in case you had any doubts what the place is all about. The parrilla’s walls are emblazoned with football memorabilia (lest you forget Argentina’s other great passion besides beef) and a spoon is offered to cut your steak with because, yes, the meat is that tender. See p29. Who you’ll find here Bono once famously dined at La Brigada, but at weekends you’re more likely to run into a camera-laden tourist than the Irish frontman. Visit on a weekday, however, and you’ll find yourself sitting alongside locals as they enjoy a long lunch break or late night dinner.

Who you’ll find here Culture vultures and travellers ticking one more item off their checklist, or the odd local who happens to be taking advantage of the free entry on an afternoon off. EZEQUIEL POCCARD

LA CARNICERÍA The parrilla is not usually, nay never, the site of innovation, which is why new joint La Carnicería quickly attracted attention for its modern and daring approach to the traditional asado. The Colombian chef and owner made a bold choice by taking on the parrilla world as a non-Argentinian, but it looks like the risk has paid off, as there are queues outside this place every night for the generous portions of chorizo, steak and smoked meats, all served with a clever culinary twist. See p42. Who you’ll find here Porteños and foreigners on the hunt for the next food trend are lining up at this place. Book ahead to avoid a stand-off for the last table with either of the aforementioned.

112 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

GALERÍA UNION OK, a street-art gallery sounds like an oxymoron, but rest assured, there’s no one better than the street-art experts behind Graffitimundo (see p124) to pull off such a space. The gallery has been nothing short of a success since opening in 2014. Union recently relocated from San Telmo to Palermo, making a visit more convenient for the many hipsters and expats who live in the area. See p124. Who you’ll find here Expect a random mix of people from passersby to enthusiastic travellers fresh off a Graffitimundo tour. If you’re fortunate enough to go to one of the exhibition launches, then you could also rub shoulders with one of the featured artists.

Do you belong in a trendy graffiti gallery, a traditional parrilla or perhaps an edgy leather shop? Let Claire McKeever guide you through classic and modern BA CLÁSICA Y MODERNA The wonderful thing about Buenos Aires is that it still offers plenty of outlets for one of life’s simplest pleasures: roaming round a bookshop and feeling like you’ve escaped the world. Clásica y Moderna exudes the old-school bookshop experience with the added advantage of an adjoining bar/café, where you can accompany your reading with a glass of malbec or music from a tango orchestra. See p135.

ROSSI & CARUSO Operating since 1868, Rossi & Caruso is the kind of shop that has earned the right to be described as an establishment. The luxury leather brand got its start in saddles and boots, and though it now also produces jackets, luggage, gloves and shoes, it still maintains an aesthetic worthy of a decorated equestrian champion. See p98.

Who you’ll find here Serious readers hang out here during the week, but tourists also pop in hoping to drench themselves in a bit of Argentinian culture and escape the bustling avenidas outside. EMILY JENSEN




BLACKMAMBA Who says leather is only for bags and jackets? Certainly not Blackmamba; here, the material makes its way into almost every item, think leather lined tank tops, colourful leather hot pants, minimalist leather backpacks and, of course, more than a few leather jackets. This is definitely the place to channel your inner rebel (though donning those leather trousers might also mean rebelling against your bank account). See p102.

DAIN USINA CULTURAL If it weren’t for lines of bookshelves just inside this shop’s huge metal door, you’d be left wondering just what you had stumbled upon. The chic space is outfitted with stark white walls, glass panels and a spiral staircase and plays hosts to far more than just books. Stop in for a round of live music and then take yourself up to the terrace bar to read and sample one of the tasty cocktails. See p100.

Who you’ll find here This is one of those exclusive shops that rarely has anyone inside. However, if you wait around long enough, you’re bound to come across a few tattooed porteños on the hunt for something edgy to wear at an underground nightclub.

Who you’ll find here Picture arty, bohemian types with black rimmed spectacles and expats feeling quite full of themselves for finding this gem of a place. Glitz aside, literature lovers also frequent the shop for its extensive selection of books.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 113

Around Town

Who you’ll find here Back in the day customers included none other than King Juan Carlos of Spain, but these days Argentina’s new royalty – in the form of celebrities and famous Polo players – are the ones likely to be gracing the shop.

The basics

Around Town

Not every visitor falls in love with Buenos Aires at first sight, but those who do fall very hard indeed. Ask the many tourists-turned-long-term residents why they’ve made Buenos Aires their home, and you’ll get answers ranging from cheap red wine and stellar steaks, to friendly people and loose immigration controls. Buenos Aires may have a more laid-back attitude than other cities, but rest assured, between the strikes, protests and football matches, this is a city that keeps you on your toes. One thing’s for certain: you’ll never be bored. GETTING AROUND To find your way around, use the map references throughout the magazine, which correspond to the map on page 170. Public transport in BA is excellent, with the simplest mode for disoriented travellers being the Subte (underground train). A single journey costs AR$5.00, or AR$4.50 with a Sube card (see p172). Buses, known as colectivos, are the city’s lifeblood. See page 172 for prices and information. If you plan to do much travelling by bus, a Guía T bus routes booklet, sold at kiosks or by roaming vendors, will stand you in excellent stead. You can also plan your trip by bus, Subte, train and even bike online with the useful www.mapa.buenosaires.gob.ar. Taxi drivers pride themselves on city knowledge, but it’s safest to stick to radio taxis with a company phone number on the passenger door, as dishonest drivers have been known to take advantage of tourists. Better still, explore the streets on foot. THE CENTRE

French-style palaces, wide avenues and green plazas meet choking traffic and clamorous protestors: the city’s

historic and commercial nerve centre, Centro – Microcentro and beyond – is where former splendour and urban dreams compete with grittier realities.

Dante’s Divine Comedy. Subte A, Plaza de Mayo, Perú, Piedras, Lima, Sáenz Peña or D, Catedral or E, Bolívar/bus 39, 64, 168. Map C4, C5. ! Take five Head to BA’s oldest café, the grand Café Tortoni (see p19), for hot chocolate and churros.

and Avenida 9 de Julio, said to be the widest street in the world. Eight blocks down in the middle of Avenida 9 de Julio near the intersection of Avenida Belgrano, stands the Ministry of Social Development building, emblazoned on two sides with gigantic contrasting murals of Eva Perón, which are illuminated at night. Facing the north of the city, Evita appears caught up in a fiery speech, while on the other side she casts her saintly smile over the traditionally working-class barrios of the south. The epicentre of BA’s mainstream theatre district lies just west of the obelisk, along a razzle-dazzle stretch of Avenida Corrientes that extends up to Avenida Callao. Subte A, Sáenz Peña or B, Uruguay or D, Tribunales/bus 60. Map C3, D4. ! Take five Tuck into a slice of seriously cheesy thick-crust pizza topped with fainá (chickpea bread) at El Cuartito (see p26).

Plaza de Mayo BA’s historic central square is still a magnet for protests and celebrations, which gravitate towards the vividly Congreso pink Casa Rosada presidential This relatively run-down downtown palace. Facing it, the Cabildo was the neighbourhood nevertheless contains a headquarters of the city council from few flashes of grandeur. Completed in 1580 to 1821. On the northern side of 1906, the parliament building, Palacio the plaza, the neoclassical Catedral del Congreso, is a grand dome-andMetropolitana houses the remains of column affair, and can be visited via a the liberator José de San Martín, who free guided tour in English on Monday, died in France in 1850. At the centre of Tuesday, Thursday and Friday at the Plaza is the Pirámide de Mayo, 12.30pm and 5pm (4010 3000, www. an obelisk raised in 1811 for the first congreso.gov.ar, closed Jan). anniversary of the May revolution. Subte A, Congreso/bus 12, 60, Don’t miss the white105. Map C3, C4, D4. headscarved Madres de ! Take five Fill up on Plaza de Mayo, who still ceviche and pisco sours march around the How do we get there? at Peruvian joint Chan pyramid with banners Chan (see p28). Download the free BA and photos each Cómo Llego app to Thursday from 3.30pm, Tribunales navigate Buenos Aires’s protesting the The heart of the city’s massive network of disappearance of their legal scene, Tribunales colectivos sons and daughters is home to law courts and (buses). during the last military law firms. The centrepiece of the dictatorship (1976-83). neighbourhood is the Palacio de Subte A, Plaza de Mayo or D, Catedral or E, Bolívar/bus 22, 56, 126. Map C5. Justicia, seat of the Supreme Court. Stretching out in front as far as Avenida ! Take five Stop in for Patagonian Córdoba is Plaza Lavalle, an attractive ice-cream and artisanal chocolates at green spot rich in history and sprawling Abuela Goye (Hipólito Yrigoyen 428, ceibo trees. Across the plaza, filling a 4342 8121). whole block, is the magnificent Teatro Colón (see p137). The Diagonal Avenida de Mayo European-style buildings with exquisite Norte avenue (also known as Roque Sáenz Peña), which links Tribunales architectural details make this avenue, with the Plaza de Mayo, is a masterpiece which links Plaza de Mayo with of urban harmony whose every Congress, 15 blocks west, a lovely building is ten storeys tall and has a choice for an atmospheric city-centre second-floor balcony. Erected in 1936 to stroll. The outstanding edifice is the mark the 400th anniversary of the Palacio Barolo at number 1370. One of the city’s most emblematic buildings, founding of the city, the phallic, 68-metre cement spike El Obelisco sits this wonderful 1923 construction is a at the intersection of Avenida Corrientes neo-Gothic tribute to the 100 cantos of


Microcentro On weekdays during business hours the downtown district is a maelstrom of porteños shopping, working, running, shouting and flouting traffic laws. The motherlode of the mayhem is pedestrianised calle Florida, an elegant thoroughfare back in the day, but now unashamedly commercial. Nearby calle Lavalle, on the other hand, packed with B-movie cinemas and gaudy, eye-searing signs, makes the hectic calle Florida look positively chic in comparison. Subte B, Florida or C, Lavalle or D, Catedral/bus 4, 20, 152. Map C5, D5. ! Take five Choose from a range of toppings to add to gourmet hot dogs at DOGG (San Martín 657, 4313 9735). Retiro For centuries, this area was the northern edge of the city. Today, the area’s main attraction, aside from the railway stations (see p170), is its open space – the shady green swathe that is Plaza San Martín, which is surrounded by several impressive buildings, including the Palacio Paz and the Palacio San Martín. South America’s tallest building when inaugurated in 1935, the lofty Kavanagh building is another significant landmark. At the foot of the plaza is an obsidian marble cenotaph dedicated to those who died in the 1982 Malvinas (Falklands) war. Just over the road stands a clock tower that was a gift to Argentina from local AngloArgentinians for the 1910 centennial celebrations. Initially known as the Torre de los Ingleses, it was renamed the Torre Monumental after the 1982 territorial war with Britain. Subte C, San Martín, Retiro/bus 6, 20, 93, 152. Map D5, D6. ! Take five Sample a salmon bagel or a scone at modern café Farinelli (Arroyo 900, 4328 7998). SOUTH OF THE CENTRE

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Chimichurri is one of the few condiments Argentinians will allow to grace their steak

When people talk about ‘bohemian’ Buenos Aires, more often than not they are referring to the southern barrios of the city – Monserrat, San Telmo and La Boca in particular.

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The Plaza de Mayo has been the site of protests and revolutions

Monserrat This historic barrio attracts less tourism than San Telmo, but its heritage and architecture are in a class of their own. The Iglesia de San Ignacio, on the corner of Alsina and Bolívar, dates from 1734 and is the oldest church in the city. It’s part of the Manzana de las Luces, a set of historic buildings that occupies an entire city block and which has at various times been a Jesuit school and residence, a university library and the representative chamber from which BA province was governed until 1880. You can tour the chamber, the patios and a series of 18th-century tunnels that used to link the building to the riverbank behind what is now Plaza de Mayo, several hundred metres away. Subte A, Piedras or C, Moreno or E, Bolívar/bus 2, 23, 91, 98. Map C4. ! Take five Try the pasta at bright café Moreneta de Montserrat (see p24). San Telmo Tourists are entranced by the cobblestone streets and crumbling mansions of this classic working-class barrio, which has been gradually gentrified over recent years, while retaining much of its native charm. Heading to San Telmo from Plaza de Mayo, Defensa and Balcarce are the most pleasant and scenic streets to walk along. The former is lined with antiques shops, while the latter is a quieter, cobblestone street. To see the inside of a house from 1880, visit the lovely Pasaje de la Defensa (Defensa 1179), a refurbished two-storey mansion that is now bristling with antiques shops and souvenir stands. Plaza Dorrego is one of the few plazas in the city where

you can eat and drink al fresco, and on Sundays is the epicentre of the neighbourhood’s famous and very popular street market, which sells antiques and crafts and sprawls along calle Defensa as far as Plaza de Mayo. Subte C, Independencia/bus 10, 17, 24, 29, 39, 64, 152. Map B4. ! Take five Make a pit stop at British pub Gibraltar (see p72). La Boca In space and spirit, La Boca is as far south as BA goes, divided from the vast suburbs of Greater Buenos Aires by the dark, toxic gloop of the Riachuelo river. The barrio’s main attraction, Caminito, is a short, pedestrianised street – a garish tourist trap to some; but an interesting glimpse, nevertheless, of the city’s historic port neighbourhood. The corrugated zinc shacks stacked on each side of the wide path (caminito) owe their vivid colours to impoverished locals, who, back in the day, begged incoming ships for excess tins of paint to brighten up their homes. These days, the area is thronged with tango dancers, models posing as tango dancers, artisans, tourists and a healthy complement of grafters. We can’t stress it enough: stick to the obviously tourist area around Caminito and avoid the neighbourhood after dark, since La Boca has a bad reputation for robberies of tourists who stray off the beaten track. Don’t miss the Fundación Proa (see p122), a magnificent art gallery on the waterfront, and cultural centre Usina del Arte (see p138). Bus 20, 25, 29, 46. Map A1, A4. ! Take five Enjoy the view over a light lunch at Fundación Proa’s café.

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Constitución, Barracas & Boedo Run-down Constitución is best known for its railway station, built in the 1880s to help wealthy weekenders get to the coast. These days the grand station serves working-class commuters from the southern suburbs, with a forecourt that is a byword for chaos. Neighbouring Barracas was once a hotbed for working-class protest movements but now it shows signs of gentrification. Its biggest attraction is artist Marino Santa María’s mosaic-based ‘urban intervention’ on calle Lanín (www. marinosantamaria.com). Exploring both Barracas and Constitución alone at night is not recommended. Boedo, an attractive neighbourhood filled with bohemian cafés, bars and theatres, is home to San Lorenzo football club, and is one of the cradles of tango. Subte C, Constitución or E, Boedo, Independencia/bus 20, 56, 59, 84, 100, 126, 160. Map A2, A3, B2, B3, C3, D1. ! Take five Café Margot (see p18) is a good spot for people watching. NORTH OF THE CENTRE

When wealthy porteños fled a yellow fever epidemic in 1871, they gravitated en masse to Barrio Norte. Mansions and palaces soon spread to Recoleta and Palermo, today the most stylish and European of all BA’s districts. Recoleta & Barrio Norte It’s Buenos Aires’s most exclusive patch of real estate – but nobody lives there. We refer, of course, to the Cementerio de la Recoleta, one of the world’s great necropolises. A walk down its fine avenues and alleys is one

of BA’s undisputed delights; and though many presidents are entombed here, the resting place of María Eva Duarte de Perón, aka Evita, is probably the graveyard’s biggest draw. Although by no means the most impressive tomb, this one’s always surrounded by people and fresh flowers. Next to the cemetery’s entrance is the whitewashed Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar, founded in 1716 by Jesuit missionaries, with superb art and performance venue Centro Cultural Recoleta (see p120) just next door. Plaza Francia, directly north-east of the cultural centre, is taken over every weekend by an excellent handicrafts fair, while facing it across the wide Avenida Figueroa Alcorta, the neoclassical Facultad de Derecho (law faculty) cuts an imposing figure. Don’t miss the huge, shining Floralis Genérica sculpture immediately to its left. Originally designed to open and close daily with the sun, mechanical problems with one of the petals immobilised the flower in 2010. After many years, repairs are finally underway and the flower should be soon back to its original glory. Subte D, Agüero, Pueyrredón/bus 39, 64, 93, 110, 152. Map E4, E5, F4. ! Take five Don’t miss Florencio’s (see p20) beautiful cakes. Palermo Immense Palermo contains a number of subdivisions, some semi-official and others surely dreamt up by real estate agents. Most people accept three areas: Palermo Chico (bordering Recoleta) for embassies and the filthy rich; leafy Palermo Viejo (comprising Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Soho) for global cuisine and funky boutiques; and Palermo for the rest, including the expanses of greenery. Palermo’s Plaza Italia is one of the noisiest and busiest junctions in the city. Off to one side lies the zoo, the Jardín Zoológico (Avenida Sarmiento, y Avenida Las Heras, 4011 9900, www.zoobuenosaires.com.ar). Also bordering Plaza Italia is the beginning of the barrio’s large expanse of greenery, in the form of the slightly shabby but pleasingly tranquil botanical gardens. Inaugurated in 1898, the Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays (Avenida Santa Fe 3951, 4831 4527) is full of fountains, statues, orchids, cacti, ferns and trees – and an army of snogging teenagers and feral cats. Parque Tres de Febrero is the city’s largest green lung and a great place for a breather. Within its limits is the delightfully pretty Rosedal (rose garden). It’s the highlight of Palermo’s Parque Tres de Febrero, and within it lies the Jardín de los Poetas, its peaceful fountains surrounded by busts of literary giants, a tiled Patio Andaluz and a shaded pergola by the lake. At night the area, also known as the Bosques de Palermo (Palermo woods), can be dangerous and is a well-known pick-up spot for transvestite prostitutes. Inside the park and flanked by avenidas Casares and Berro, the Jardín Japonés (Japanese garden) was created in 1967 as a gift

Tourism with a conscience

from the city’s Japanese community. Parque Tres de Febrero is also home to the golf-ball-shaped Planetario (Avenida Belisario Roldán y Sarmiento, 4771 6692, www.planetario.gov.ar, closed Mon). It’s telescopes can be used by the public on Saturday and Sunday, and there are science-themed functions daily. Subte D, Bulnes, Scalabrini Ortiz, Plaza Italia/bus 39, 59, 60, 152. Map F3, F4, F5, G4, G5. ! Take five For delicious coffee and pastries, hit Birkin Coffee Bar (see p20). Palermo Viejo Comprising Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood (Soho is south-east of Avenida Juan B Justo and Hollywood is north-west), Palermo Viejo was run down and romantic until the early 1990s. It has since been radically gentrified by an influx of hip restaurants, trendy nightclubs and bars, and by copious numbers of fashion and design outlets. Plazoleta Cortázar (more commonly known as Plaza Serrano) remains popular, and those who find the area’s new bars too pricey or pretentious can often be

Las Cañitas A buzzing residential and dining district, Las Cañitas is fringed by the polo ground and racecourse (see p128) and is a focal point for the monied socialites of Palermo and Belgrano. By night, the bars on calle Báez fill up quickly, particularly on weekends. However, Las Cañitas has little in the way of historical or cultural interest apart from the Centro Cultural Islámico Rey Fahd mega-mosque at avenidas Bullrich and del Libertador. Bus 42, 59, 67, 68, 152. Map H4. ! Take five Stop in for a spicy treat and a margarita at Mexican spot La Fábrica del Taco (see p60).

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BA isn’t exactly known for being green, but slowly and surely, environmental issues are working their way into the city’s consciousness. Several city government initiatives have helped things along, including schemes like the introduction of cycle paths and a campaign to make recycling the job of citizens and not just the cartoneros who have long sorted through the rubbish. As a visitor, there are a number of ways you can support the movement. On Anda Travel’s (Apartment 3B, Billinghurst 1193, 3221 0833, www.andatravel.com) La Boca Beyond Caminito tour, you’ll visit three projects and learn about how they benefit the wider community. Highlights include a merienda (tea) of maté and alfajores at a cooperative alfajor factory. You can also volunteer with Anda to spend a day helping out in a food bank and children’s community centre. To sleep with a clear conscience, stay at green hotel Palo Santo (see p154). Support social project Yo No Fui (Bonpland 1660, 4305 4283, www.yonofui.org.ar) – an organisation that runs workshops for women in, and recently released from, prison – by buying home accessories from its shop in Palermo on Fridays from 2pm to 8pm. Other guilt-free shopping comes in the form of ethical label URSA’s (www.cyberursa.com) gorgeous textiles and accessories, the majority of which are produced in collaboration with women’s cooperatives in and around BA. Check the website for a list of stockists. To get your hands on other eco-friendly products, visit designer Alejandra Gottelli’s shop Cubreme (see p102) or coat showroom Manto Abrigos (see p108).

found here, under the lime trees with a bottle of Quilmes beer. With Palermo Soho saturated with bars and restaurants, many spilled across Avenida Juan B Justo into the area known as ‘Palermo Hollywood’ for the number of TV production companies located there. Even more expensive restaurants and a bewildering number of bars are to be found in this zone. Subte D, Palermo, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 29, 39, 64, 67, 93, 152. Map F3. ! Take five Pop in to Pain et Vin (see p21) for a wholesome sandwich and a glass of vino.

Belgrano Like Palermo, Belgrano is a large, affluent barrio divided unofficially into several sub-districts. These include Belgrano R, an upscale residential zone characterised by half-timbered houses and cobbled streets; Barrancas de Belgrano, an attractive park on a slope; and BA’s Barrio Chino (Chinatown), located on and around calle Arribeños between Juramento and Blanco Encalada. Belgrano’s main artery is migraine-inducing Avenida Cabildo, dominated by mid-market clothing retailers, particularly shoe shops. Bus 42, 55, 60, 64, 130. ! Take five Grill your own meat at Korean barbecue joint BBQ Town (Juaramento 1656, 4783 2780). WEST OF THE CENTRE

The city’s western districts are real-world BA – where ordinary porteños live and work. Abasto is being spruced up and given back some of its tango heritage, while traditional residential barrios like Villa Crespo and Almagro are well worth exploring for their neighbourhood bars and restaurants off busy avenidas Corrientes and Rivadavia. Once & Abasto Once (pronounced ‘ON-say’), west of downtown along Avenida Corrientes, is a hectic commercial district home to many of BA’s Jewish population as well as Korean, Middle Eastern and Peruvian communities. Just along from Once, at Avenida Corrientes and Anchorena, is the beautiful Mercado de Abasto building, a soaring art deco masterpiece that was built in the 1930s as a wholesale market and later converted into the Abasto de Buenos Aires shopping centre (see p107). Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 117

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Subte B, Carlos Gardel, Pasteur, Pueyrredón/bus 24, 68, 88, 92, 104, 132, 168, 188, 194. Map D3, E3. ! Take five Dig into a chicken-based feast at Peruvian restaurant Carlitos (Corrientes 3070, 4861 6440).

Subte B, Federico Lacroze/bus 42, 44, 47, 63, 111, 112, 127. Map H1, H2. ! Take five Relax with coffee and cake at pretty café Ramón Generales (Jorge Newberry 3791, 4553 8430).

Almagro, Caballito & Villa Crespo West of Abasto, these attractive middle-class barrios are often what people mean when they talk about the ‘real’ BA. Parque Centenario, in Caballito, is the main public park for these neighbourhoods and is busy at weekends. The park contains the Museo Argentino de Ciencias Naturales Bernardino Rivadavia (see p120). Almagro and Villa Crespo are traditional neighbourhoods increasingly attracting fashionable bars and shops. Life in both revolves around the busy Avenida Corrientes. Subte A, Castro Barros or B, Ángel Gallardo, Malabia, Medrano/bus 55, 92, 124, 168. Map E1, F1, F2, G1. ! Take five La Cresta Casa de Spiedo (Bulnes 829, 4864 4417) has delightfully flavoursome wraps and salads.

Beside the brown, silty river, there are plenty of eating, strolling and nature-watching opportunities.

Chacarita Like many one-time outlying barrios, Chacarita developed around a railway station, Federico Lacroze. The terminus, opened in 1880, is now little more than a run-down shed for suburban trains. Equally gloomy but far more interesting is the Cementerio de la Chacarita on the other side of Avenida Guzmán. Much bigger than Recoleta’s necropolis, with numbered streets and car access to its thousands of vaults, it’s largely for ordinary folk, although tango’s Carlos Gardel is buried here.

Sightseeing by night Think the day’s sightseeing is done when darkness hits? Think again. For views of the city in its evening glory, book a night-time visit to the Palacio Barolo (see p114) and learn about the history of this fascinating building modelled on Dante’s inferno. Once you’ve climbed the narrow stairway to ‘heaven’, sip a glass of wine as you take in views of the Casa Rosada (see p114), which is lit up an especially lurid shade of pink come nightfall. Tours run at 8pm Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays; 8.30pm on Thursdays and cost AR$350. The Buenos Aires Zoo (see p116) has evening tours every Friday at 8pm (AR$180), in which a zoo worker guides visitors through the animals’ nocturnal habits (in Spanish however, so brush up on your animal vocabulary). Call to reserve a place. To get close to nature by the light of the full moon, join one of the Reserva Ecológica’s (see right) free night-time walks by emailing visitasguidas_recs@ buenosaires.gob.ar. If you’d rather explore the city on two wheels, join the Masa Crítica (see p128) bike ride. The fun kicks off at the Obelisco (see p114) every full moon at 9pm.


Puerto Madero & Costanera Sur The posh port of Puerto Madero is divided into two lengthy promenades: Puerto Madero Oeste (west) and Este (east). On the western side, the Buque Museo Fragata Presidente Sarmiento is a 19th-century frigate built in Birkenhead and used as a navy training ship. It’s now a wonderful museum. To its south is the eyecatching Puente de la Mujer (Woman’s Bridge), a pedestrian swing bridge with a spar-and-cable arc shape. Further south still lies the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur (closed Mon), BA’s wilderness on the watery edge of the city. The long esplanade skirting the reserve is one of the city’s most popular spots for walking, jogging, cycling and picnicking. Subte B, LN Alem/bus 26, 61, 93, 152, 159, 195. Map B5, B6. ! Take five Admire the view as you have tea at i Central Market (see p36). Costanera Norte & Núñez A traditional promenade thronged with anglers and day trippers contrasts with the domestic airport. South of the latter is the Club de Pescadores, a private fishing club, while north is religious theme park Tierra Santa (Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado 5790, 0800 444 3467, www.tierrasanta-bsas.com. ar), the highlight of which is the hourly resurrection of a giant plastic Jesus. On the final curve of the Costanera Norte is the Parque de la Memoria. Developed in remembrance of victims of the 1976-83 military dictatorship, the tasteful memorial park’s centrepiece is a monument consisting of stone tablets bearing the names of the ‘disappeared’, many of whom were drugged and thrown from planes to their deaths in the river beside the park. Further west, the residential neighbourhood of Núñez borders BA province, and is home to River Plate football club and its stadium, Estadio Monumental (see p128), as well as the riverside green space Parque de los Niños (Avenida Cantilo y General Paz). Nearby, is the former ‘ESMA’, the country’s most notorious torture centre during the military dictatorship, where 5,000 men and women were clandestinely held for charges of ‘subversion’. Most were never seen again. The campus was renamed the Espacio para la Memoria y para la Promoción y Defensa de los Derechos Humanos (Avenida del Libertador 8151, 4702 9920, www. espaciomemoria.ar) and transformed into a museum. Bus 28, 33, 45, 130, 152. Map H6. ! Take five Oporto Almacén (see p66) is just the spot for a lazy lunch.

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Whether you want to step back in time with a dose of history, soak up some artistic vibes, glimpse into the lives of the city’s legends or keep the little ones entertained, there’s something to suit all agendas in BA. Some museums have excellent lunch spots, particularly good are the restaurant at the Museo Evita and Croque Madame at the Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo. Museums devoted to art are listed in the Art section (see p121).

bus 28, 56, 105. Open 10.30am-5pm Wed-Fri; 11.30am-6pm Sat, Sun and public holidays. Admission by donation. No credit cards. Map C5.

El Zanjón de Granados Part archaeological museum, part event space, El Zanjón encapsulates three centuries of urban living. The façade dates from 1830, but traces from an earlier patrician home – an open-air cistern, a lookout tower and a wall comprised of seashell mortaring – take you back to the era of Spanish settlement. The treasure trove of objects uncovered here during HOW TO USE THE LISTINGS excavations includes French tiles and " denotes a museum that is African pipes. Tours of the Casa suitable or primarily Mínima across the street intended for children. are by reservation only # denotes a museum we on Fridays at 2pm. particularly recommend. Defensa 755, entre Forget the coins If you plan to use public Chile y Avenida RETIRO Independencia (4361 transport, a Sube card Museo de Arte will make travel cheaper 3002/www.elzanjon. Hispanoamericano com.ar). Bus 28, 29, and easier (www. Isaac Fernández 159, 195. Open sube.gov.ar). Blanco noon-3pm Mon-Fri (tours on This baroque-style building the hour); 1-6pm Sun (tours every houses Spanish-American paintings, 20mins). Admission AR$150 religious objects and an important Mon-Fri; AR$115 Sun. Map B4. collection of colonial silverware. The museum’s ‘Ayres de Arte’ walking tour LA BOCA on Wednesdays and Fridays at 3.30pm Museo de la Pasión Boquense takes you down calle Arroyo to check out To feel the pasión, visit La Bombonera the surrounding buildings’ architecture. stadium on a match day. For Suipacha 1422, entre Arroyo y everything else Boca-related, this Avenida del Libertador (4327 0228). museum scores high. There are Bus 17, 152. Open 1-7pm Tue-Sun. audio-visual gadgets, loads of facts Closed May. Admission AR$5. Free and figures and, of course, tributes to Wed, Thu. Map D6. La Boca’s most enduring and legendary hero, Diego Maradona. MONSERRAT AND SAN TELMO Brandsen 805, y la Vía (4362 1100/ Museo del Bicentenario www.museoboquense.com). Bus 10, 24, Tucked behind the Casa Rosada, this 70, 74, 86, 93. Open 10am-6pm daily. museum, opened in 2011 to mark 201 Closed on match days. Admission years of independence, delivers a heavy AR$90; museum tour AR$96; museum hit of pro-government propaganda. and stadium tour AR$110 (tours The restored space is in the city’s 11am-6pm on the hour). Credit AmEx, former fort, and artefacts, artworks, MC, V. Map A1. campaign posters and videos are used RECOLETA AND BARRIO NORTE to explore the nation’s political history. Highlights include the mural Ejército Museo Nacional de Plástico (Plastic Army) by Mexican Arte Decorativo artist David Siqueiros and the bloodied Built in 1911, this grand mansion has a headscarf of Madres de Plaza de Mayo façade incorporating French, leader Hebe de Bonafini following Corinthian and Tuscan elements. Its blows received at a protest rally. stunning ballrooms, sumptuous Paseo Colón 100, e Hipólito Yrigoyen bedrooms and hallways display more (4344 3802/www.museo.gov.ar). Subte than 4,000 pieces of decorative art. A, Plaza de Mayo or D, Catedral or E, Tours in English are at 2.30pm from Bolívar/bus 29, 129. Open 10am-6pm Tuesday to Friday. Wed-Sun. Admission free. Map C5. Avenida del Libertador 1902, y Pereyra Lucena (4801 8248/www.mnad.org). Museo Histórico Nacional Bus 10, 59, 60, 67, 110, 118, 130. del Cabildo Open 2-7pm Tue-Sun. Admission The first steps towards Argentina’s AR$20; tour AR$30. Free Tue. Map F5. independence were taken here, the city’s HQ from 1580 to 1821. The "Museo Participativo austere museum contains items such de Ciencias as a magnificent gold and silver piece ‘Prohibido no tocar’ (‘it’s forbidden not from Oruro, Bolivia and items relating to touch’) is the motto of this science to the English invasions. Behind the museum, where kids can explore the building is a shaded colonial patio and natural sciences. Themed rooms café; it is also the site of a handicrafts include ‘no me mates matemática’ fair on Thursdays and Fridays from (don’t kill me, maths) and ‘la mesa está 11am to 6pm. servida’ (dinner is served). Bolívar 65, entre Avenida de Mayo e 1st floor, Centro Cultural Recoleta, Hipólito Yrigoyen (4334 1782/www. Junín 1930, y Quintana, (4807 3260/ cabildonacional.com.ar). Subte A, Plaza www.mpc.org.ar). Bus 17, 37, 59, 60, 61, 62, 67, 92, 108, 110, 124, 130. de Mayo or D, Catedral or E, Bolívar/


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Tour selector 5 Stars of Argentina www.5-stars-of-argentina.com A luxurious day sampling the best of Argentina’s wine, meat, tango, polo and gaucho culture. US$220. Anda Travel www.andatravel.com Socially responsible tours that benefit the wider community. From AR$476. Anuva Wines www.anuvawines.com Wine tastings led by friendly sommeliers in Palermo. Excellent wines served. US$52.

Around Town

BA Free Tour www.bafreetour.com Proving the best things in life can be free, BA Free Tour offers guided walks of the centre, Recoleta and Retiro. Tips appreciated.

Evita’s working class followers were known as descamisados (shirtless)

Open 3.30-7.30pm Tue-Sun. Admission AR$60; free under-4s; free pensioners Wed. No credit cards. Map E5. !Museo Xul Solar This museum-cum-gallery contains a collection of esoteric objects, instruments and quirky art by the city’s most eccentric, self-proclaimed visionary: the sailor-turned-painter, astrologer, mathematician, writer and philologist Oscar Agustín Alejandro Schulz Solari (1887-1963), known as Xul Solar. Acclaimed by his friend Borges as ‘one of the most singular occurrences of his time’, Solar invented his own language (Pan) and lived in his own personal time. Tours are available on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 4pm and Saturdays at 3.30pm. Laprida 1212, y Mansilla (4824 3302/ www.xulsolar.org.ar). Subte D, Agüero/ bus 12, 39, 68, 106, 111. Open noon-8pm Mon-Fri; noon-7pm Sat. Admission AR$20. Map E4. PALERMO

!Museo de Arte Popular José Hernández This museum’s well-curated collection comprises elements from Argentina’s rural past, including maté gourds, spurs, knives and other assorted gaucho paraphernalia. Avenida del Libertador 2373, y San Martín de Tours (4803 2384/www. museohernandez.buenosaires.gob.ar). Bus 10, 37, 59. Open 1-7pm Tue-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat, Sun and public holidays. Admission AR$5. Free Wed. Map F5. Museo Evita Housed in an aristocratic residence that Perón expropriated to convert into a women’s shelter for his wife’s quasi-statal welfare agency, this museum is worth a visit if only to see the range of myths Evita inspires in Argentina. There are paintings, posters and busts, as well as outfits and her

libreta cívica (ID card), number 0.000.001. Guided tours are available for groups of five or more people if reserved in advance. Arguably better than the museum are the restaurant and terrace (see p44). Lafinur 2988, y Gutiérrez (4807 9433/ www.museoevita.org). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 37, 59. 141, 152, 160, 188. Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sun. Admission AR$40; with guided tour AR$70. Map G4. ONCE AND ABASTO

Museo Casa Carlos Gardel A tribute to one of the 20th century’s greatest exponents of popular song, the Gardel museum – once Carlos Gardel’s Abasto home – preserves and exhibits various items that either belonged to, or were connected with, the tango legend who tragically died young in a plane crash in Colombia while on tour. Among the museum’s activities are free tango classes and singing lessons (call to check times). The museum also screens films that the tango king acted and sang in. Jean Jaurès 735, y San Luis (4964 2015/www.museocasacarlosgardel. buenosaires.gob.ar). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 26, 29, 99, 124, 168, 188, 194. Open 11am-6pm Mon, Wed-Fri; 10am-7pm Sat, Sun and public holidays. Admission AR$5. Free Wed. Map E3. CABALLITO

"Museo Argentino de Ciencias Naturales Bernardino Rivadavia This natural history museum, set in Caballito’s lovely Parque Centenario, is thrilling for children who are dotty for dinosaurs. The museum’s star skeleton belongs to a carnotaurus – the ‘bad guy’ in Disney’s Dinosaur. Avenida Ángel Gallardo 470, y Marechal (4982 6595/www.macn.gov. ar). Subte B, Ángel Gallardo/bus 15, 55, 124, 135, 141, 146. Open 2-7pm daily. Admission AR$15; free under-6s. Map F1.

120 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

Cultural centres

BA’s centros culturales form the backbone of the city’s cultural life, holding many events and shows. LOCAL CULTURE

With an eclectic programme including indie cinema and experimental theatre, the Centro Cultural Borges (Galerías Pacífico, Viamonte 525, y San Martín, 5555 5450, www.ccborges.org. ar) has hosted many of the must-see shows of recent years. Admission is free at the Centro Cultural Recoleta (Junín 1930, 4803 1040, www. centroculturalrecoleta.org), which hosts exhibitions and live music. The Centro Cultural Ricardo Rojas (Avenida Corrientes 2038, 4952 7281, www.rojas.uba.ar) stages experimental theatre. At the Centro Cultural San Martín (Sarmiento 1551, 4374 1251, www.ccgsm.gov.ar), there’s independent theatre, dance and workshops in video, cinema, music and visual arts. Gigs and workshops are held at Almagro’s Club Cultural Matienzo (Pringles 1249, 6610 1520, ccmatienzo.com.ar). INTERNATIONAL

The French language institution Alianza Francesa (Avenida Córdoba 936, 4322 0068, www.alianzafrancesa. org.ar) screens international cinema. For plays, films and TV shows in English, visit the British Arts Centre in Retiro (Suipacha 1333, 4393 2004, www.britishartscentre.org.ar). The Centro Cultural de España (Florida 943, 4312 3214, www.cceba.org. ar) focuses on Spanish and Argentinian digital art, while at the Goethe Institute (Avenida Corrientes 319, 4318 5600, www.goethe.de/buenosaires), a sometimes edgy programme of events is complemented by German videos, plus a language institute.

Biking Buenos Aires www.bikingbuenosaires.com Fun, informative guides show you the city on two wheels. From US$45. Buenos Aires Local Tours www.buenosaireslocaltours.com Travel by bus and Subte as an Englishspeaking guide tells you all about the city. By donation. The Buenos Aires Pub Crawl www.buenosairespubcrawl.com A night of debauchery in BA’s hottest bars and clubs. US$25. Circuito Papal circuitopapal@buenosaires.gob.ar A free tour dedicated to all things Pope Francis, either by bus or on foot. Cultour www.cultour.com.ar View the impact of Argentina’s past on its present with the free Traces walking tour. Other tours are available from AR$150. Eternautas www.eternautas.com Knowledgeable historians lead exceptional expeditions across the city. Specialist tours focus on politics, art and the Jewish population in BA. From US$160 for a group of four people. Foto Ruta www.foto-ruta.com Learn the art of street photography while exploring different neighbourhoods. From US$32. Parrilla Tour BA www.parrillatour.com Discover authentic steakhouses on this culinary tour of the city. US$69. Tangol www.tangol.com Tours around the city including trips to football matches and tango shows. From AR$180. Shop Hop BA www.shop-buenosaires.com Friendly British expat Sophie Lloyd runs customised shopping trips for all styles and budgets. From US$40. For tours and day trips outside the city, see Getting Away (p160).


Sorcha O’Higgins finds local street artists using their talent to make powerful social commentaries at home and abroad NICOLÁS ROMERO ESCALADA

Ever’s Idealism trying to save the future on the night of September 26th, 2014 references the disappeared Mexican students


or centuries, art has acted as a social mirror, providing a platform to reflect, represent and comment on the times. If art is a visual communicator, then urban art is perhaps the most immediate and effective tool of social communication. By virtue of being in the public realm, its message has a reach far beyond that of a traditional gallery setting. The poster boy for the modern street art movement, Banksy, framed this argument well when he said, ‘A wall is a very big weapon. It’s one of the nastiest things you can hit someone with.’ Banksy and other contemporary street artists such as BLU, Gaia and JR offer social commentaries through their murals, creating a dialogue between the artist, the public and the environment to which they bear witness. In recent years, Argentinian street artists have also contributed to the conversation. Nazza Stencil from La Matanza in Greater Buenos Aires, creates deeply politicised stencils that highlight the plight of the marginalised and disenfranchised in Latin America. His work is characterised by colourful geometric backgrounds reminiscent of ethnic patterns, overlaid with black and white hyperrealistic portraits. In 2014, he created a number of murals

in Buenos Aires’s Angel Gallardo Subte station. The murals depict members of various indigenous tribes whose native languages and customs are being eradicated. An excerpt of text in the background of one of the murals, written in the Brazilian pixação style of tagging, reads, ‘Dedicated to the Nobodys’. The phrase comes from Eduardo Galeano, one of the artist’s influences and a Uruguayan author who was ‘obsessed with remembering the past of...Latin America…[a] land condemned to amnesia’. Local street artists are looking not just at Argentina, but also at the huge waves of social unrest that have recently taken place across North America. The disappearance of 43 students in Mexico and the killing of numerous black men at the hands of the police in the United States shone a disturbing light on the power of the state, judiciary, military and law enforcement agencies in those countries, and the lack of accountability they face. Franco Fasoli, Agus Zaballa and Nicolás Romero Escalada spent much of 2014 attending street art festivals and doing residencies in both the United States and Mexico. All three produced works that directly referenced the causes of civil upheaval around them.

Franco Fasoli, better known as Jaz, hails from Buenos Aires and is an internationally renowned street artist whose work deals with themes of identity and confrontation. His style often combines imagery from Latin American traditions with local cultures, such as the barra brava (football hooligans), portrayed by symmetrical human/animal hybrids. At the Color Walk Festival in Ciudad Juárez, a city on the frontline of the Mexican drug war, he painted a gargantuan mural entitled 43 Jaguars, 5 Tigers, Death and 4 Eagles Disputing a Nation, which references the Mexican flag, the pre-Hispanic Mexican rainmaking ritual La Tigrada, and pays tribute to the 43 student teachers who were kidnapped in Iguala in September 2014. Of the intense and moving mural, he says, ‘I was working in one of the most troubled cities in the world, so it was imperative that my work had a relationship to the current situation.’ Agus Zaballa was raised on the outskirts of Buenos Aires in a family of artists and, in her words, surrounded by ‘strong female figures’. Her work celebrates survival and struggle, and past events or protagonists who epitomise those themes, like the British suffragettes of the late 1800s. Also a participant

in Color Walk, Zaballa used her mural La Jefa to commemorate a woman named Chula, whom she describes as ‘one of the hundreds of women in Juárez who endured the kidnapping of relatives and abuse under the drug traffickers, but resisted and stayed in the area.’ At Miami’s high profile event Art Basel, where ‘in one weekend, thousands of people flock to see art and take selfies’, she attempted to re-instil awareness of the recent American social upheaval by installing posters and wooden boards with the stark image of Michael Brown, whose death at the hands of a police officer in August 2014 ignited protests in Ferguson, Missouri. Nicolás Romero Escalada of Buenos Aires, who signs his work as Ever, is a provocative artist who explores the veneration of ordinary people, religion and ideology through his murals. ‘Painting in the street is the most direct way to denounce something...it has the communist trait of being free and unowned’, he says. Also painting in Juárez in 2014, Ever created an impressive wall entitled Idealism trying to save the future on the night of September 26th, 2014. The mural was born out of a feeling of helplessness towards the disappearance of the 43 students, something which to him ‘was a violent event that transcended all social classes and affected the whole of society’. He also created a powerful piece for a solo show in Queretero, in which viewers spontaneously interacted with a work called Artistic interpretation of the portrait of the president (a photograph of Mexican president Enrique Peña Nieto covered in Ever’s signature cascade of colour), by carrying the message of the piece across the wall with inscriptions such as ‘Peace’ and ‘The dead and disappeared’. All of the above artists consider painting in the street, by its very nature, to be a political act, and one that does not exist in a vacuum. This year will see them using the medium to ask more questions, encouraging the viewer to become part of the discussion. If you’re strolling the streets of Buenos Aires, look out for their works, especially in the neighbourhoods of Villa Crespo and Barracas. To keep up with the artists long after you’ve left Argentina, follow them through Instagram at nazza.stencil, francofasolijaz, aguszaballa and eversiempre.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 121


The scene

The best way to experience Buenos Aires’s thriving art scene is on foot. Graffiti here is about far more than taking a can of spray paint to a wall. Instead, street artists paint the city with innovative murals, particularly in neighbourhoods south of the centre like San Telmo and Barracas. Traditional art still has its place in Buenos Aires. Classic works can be found at the Museo Quinquela Martín (Avenida Don Pedro de Mendoza 1835, 4301 1080) and the Museo de Bellas Artes (see right). Though the latter is as traditional as it gets, it’s begun to court a younger crowd with its monthly event Bellos Jueves. On the last Thursday of every month, the museum stays open into the night to host young musicians and artists. The line between the street and the galleries isn’t always so clear, however. One of BA’s hottest underground spaces is the BSM Art Building in Once (Boulogne Sur Mer 345, 4865 9300), a former oxygen bottle factory transformed into a grungy, multistorey space. Galería Union (see p124) recently moved to Palermo, where it hosts the works of street artists in a traditional gallery setting.

Major institutions Colección de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat The private treasure trove of the late Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat, once Argentina’s wealthiest woman, is housed in a stunning glass and steel airplane hangar-type edifice on Puerto Madero’s supremely modern and upscale waterfront. The collection of both Argentinian and international works includes the psychologically complex paintings of Carlos Alonso and the highly versatile work of the painter of the people, Antonio Berni. Don’t miss the Dalí, Turner or Brueghel pieces, or Warhol’s silkscreen of Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat herself. Guided tours are also available daily at 3pm and 5pm. Olga Cossettini 141, Puerto Madero (4310 6600/www.coleccionfortabat.org. ar). Subte B, LN Alem/bus 74, 126, 129, 140, 180. Open noon-8pm Tue-Sun. Admission AR$25-$50. Map B5.

Aimé Paine 1169, y Azucena Villaflor, Puerto Madero (4010 9233/www.faena. com). Bus 2, 64, 111, 129. Open noon-7pm Mon-Sat. Admission AR$50. Free Mon. Map B5. !Fundación Proa This institution provides you with a reason to go to La Boca that doesn’t involve paying to have your photo taken with a sleazy tango hustler. The phenomenal Proa is flourishing in its stunning waterfront building, just off the tourist hub of Caminito, and features industrial exhibition spaces, the city’s best art library and bookstore, and a third-floor gourmet café. With a gravitational pull strong enough to reel in international names (artists like Mona Hatoum) as well as an aesthetic strongly linked to the social calendar, Proa packs a full schedule, complete with related film cycles, lectures and theatrical productions. Avenida Pedro de Mendoza 1929, entre Magallanes y Rocha, La Boca (4104 1000/www.proa.org). Bus 8, 20, 25, 29, 33, 46. Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sun. Admission AR$15-$25. Map A1. MACBA The slick, glass-fronted Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Buenos Aires (MACBA) opened in late 2012, with an exhibition of abstract geometrical art plucked straight from the private collection of the museum’s Argentinian benefactor, Aldo Rubino. Situated next door to MAMbA (see right) and now hosting live music and children’s events, the four-storey space is an exciting player in San Telmo’s ever-growing art district. Avenida San Juan 328, entre Defensa y Balcarce, San Telmo (5299 2010/www. macba.com.ar). Bus 4, 8, 10, 17, 29, 93. Open noon-7pm Mon, Wed-Fri; 11.30am-7.30pm Sat, Sun. Admission AR$30; AR$20 Wed. Map A4.

Faena Arts Centre The Faena Hotel Buenos Aires (see p148) added another landmark to its Puerto Madero empire in 2011, spending big bucks to glam up this contemporary art space inside a restored flour mill. It has all the luxury of the hotel, complete with majestic marble stairs and high ceilings that lend themselves to large-scale installations. Big names are brought in from abroad, such as British artist Anthony McCall, who in 2013 displayed his works ‘constructed by light’ referencing Jorge Luis Borges’s The Aleph. 122 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

!MALBA With ambitious exhibitions and a manageable size, all signs point to the futuristic MALBA as the best museum in the city: Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, Guillermo Kuitca, Grete Stern and friends fill the walls. Look out for Pablo Reinoso’s inspired use of gallery space with the Intervención series of installations, in which the benches taper off to become larger-than-life spaghetti looping across the walls. Like the permanent collection, regularly changing temporary exhibitions feature the best of contemporary and cutting-edge Latin American art. There’s also an excellent café, well-stocked gift shop and cinema specialising in arthouse retrospectives. Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415, entre Salguero y San Martín de Tours, Palermo (4808 6500/www.malba.org. ar). Bus 37, 67, 110, 130. Open noon-8pm Mon, Thu-Sun; noon-9pm Wed. Admission AR$60; AR$30 Wed. Map F5. MAMbA A key player on the BA art circuit, MAMbA – the Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires – has some 7,000 works in its collection. The pieces span movements in Argentinian art from the 1920s to the present day, with notable works by Xul Solar, Marta Minujín and Antonio Berni. Avenida San Juan 350, entre Defensa y Balcarce, San Telmo (4342 3001/www. museodeartemoderno.buenosaires.gov. ar). Bus 10, 29, 33, 64, 74, 126. Open 11am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat, Sun. Admission AR$15. Free Tue. Map A4. Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes Offering an impressive view of the traditional side of art, the MNBA has 24 rooms, sculpture patios, an architecture display, studios, a library and an auditorium. The country’s biggest collection of 19th- and

Leandro Allochis showed his Capa Rusa series at Elsi del Río (see p124) in February 2015

20th-century Argentinian art is housed here, with pieces by masters such as Eduardo Sívori, Antonio Berni and Guillermo Kuitca on display; and the international collection includes works by masters like El Greco, Rubens, Rembrandt and Goya. Look out for the monthly Bellos Jueves event when the museum stays open after hours to host young mucisians and artists. Free tours in English are available as well. Avenida del Libertador 1473, y Pueyrredón, Recoleta (5288 9914/ www.mnba.gob.ar). Bus 92, 93, 95, 102, 108, 130. Open 12.30-8.30pm Tue-Fri; 9.30am-8.30pm Sat, Sun. Admission free. Map E5. Palais de Glace French speakers won’t have to guess the original function of this elegant belle époque building; Palais de Glace, which opened its doors to skaters in 1910, means ‘Ice Palace’. Today, the palace is suitably grand for its diverse roster of large-scale paintings, photography, engravings, sculptures and video installations. Posadas 1725, y Schiaffino, Recoleta (4804 1163/www.palaisdeglace.gob.ar). Bus 17, 60, 67, 92, 102, 110, 130. Open noon-8pm Tue-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat, Sun. Admission free. Map E5.

Galleries Centre


Ignacio Liprandi Arte Contemporáneo Argentinian collector Ignacio Liprandi has his finger firmly on the pulse of cutting-edge local and Latin American conceptual art, plucking stars from the likes of London’s Tate Modern and New York’s MoMA to show in his third-floor gallery with head-on views of the grandiose Congreso building. Rotating exhibitions have a multimedia bent, showcasing some of the most talked-about – and controversial – artists on the circuit. Level 3, left, Avenida de Mayo 1480, entre Uruguay y Paraná, Congreso (4381 0679/www.ignacioliprandi.com). Subte A, Sáenz Peña/bus 8, 39, 60, 64, 67, 86, 102, 129. Open noon-7.30pm Mon-Fri. Map C4. Zavaleta Lab The creative laboratory of local art impresario Hernán Zavaleta effectively bridges the gap between the neighbourhood’s contemporary hotspots and their downright dusty older counterparts. Zavaleta’s eye for innovation ensures a consistent turnout of solid exhibitions by both up-andcomers and local art darlings. Paintings, which tend to favour clean lines and solid colours, gleam from the walls of the broad white gallery space. Office 12, 2nd floor, Defensa 269, entre Alsina y Moreno, Monserrat (4589 5315/www.zavaletalab.com). Subte A, Plaza de Mayo/bus 10, 17, 86, 195. Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; by appt Sat. Map B4.

Affordable art Ruby Galería In the low-key barrio of Colegiales, Ruby Galería shows works by young and emerging Argentinian artists. Choose from a selection of reasonably priced canvases, books or ceramics, or bag yourself a stencil for AR$300. See p124. Galería Mar Dulce This sweet Palermo gallery has a number of small-format easily transportable pieces sure to add a touch of charm to your home. Prices begin at AR$600. See p124. Galería Union Love BA’s urban art? Take its unique, colourful presence home with you in the form of one of Galeria Union’s funky prints, which start at AR$300. See p124. Moebius The friendly folk at Moebius specialise in comic strips, comic books and illustrations. Pick up a drawing for AR$300 and if you’re feeling inspired, join one of the store’s free merienda de dibujos for cake and communal drawing. Bulnes 658 (4866 6960/www.espacio moebius.com).


POPA A hedonistic spirit pervades this house just off La Boca’s Caminito tourist strip, where director Marcelo Bosco likes his art out, loud and proud. Mixed media works run the gamut with the sublime to the shocking, from sculptures exploring S&M to photographs bordering on pornography. Exhibition openings at this hip gallery are schmoozy, upmarket affairs. Lamadrid 882, entre Garibaldi y Carlos F Melo, La Boca (4302 7244/www. galeriapopa.com.ar). Bus 64, 86, 93, 102. Open 2-8pm Thu-Sat; or by appt. Map A1.

Pasto Galería This gallery’s young crew presents a roster of emerging artists working mostly in small-format (and accessibly priced) painting, drawing, installation and photography. Friendly director César Abelenda will gladly help guide you through the underground arts scene. The bright space is a collaboration between Pasto and Luciana Massarino’s Studio 448. Pereyra Lucena 2589, y Pagano, Recoleta (4804 3060/www.pastogaleria. com.ar). Bus 37, 59, 60, 95, 110. Open 3-8pm Tue-Sat. Map F5.


San Telmo and La Boca

Mite One of a handful of galleries located inside the trendy Galería Patio del Liceo (see p94), Mite features a rotating cast of seven contemporary artists, who create fresh work such as paint and Sharpie-doctored newsprint and photographic stills inspired by old black-and-white films. After you’ve had your inspiration fix, seize the chance to drop by art bookstore Purr Libros on the ground floor. Unit 30, 1st floor, Avenida Santa Fe 2729, entre Laprida y Anchorena, Barrio Norte (4822 9433/www. mitegaleria.com.ar). Subte D, Agüero/ bus 12, 39, 64. Open 2-8pm Tue-Fri; by appt Sat. Map E4.

!Praxis With a sister gallery in New York, Praxis has serious international reach and today is one of the driving forces in promoting contemporary Argentinian art abroad. Major collectors come to the four-storey gallery to view the latest works by emerging and established artists, and to trawl through the extensive stock, which features abstract designs with high conceptual backing by artists like Pablo Lozano and García Mar. Arenales 1311, entre Uruguay y Talcahuano, Recoleta (4813 8639/www. praxis-art.com). Bus 10, 108, 111, 152. Open 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri; 10.30am-2pm Sat. Map D5. CLASSIC

Recoleta and Barrio Norte CONTEMPORARY

!Daniel Abate Infamous for keeping even the most exclusive collectors on their toes, this surprisingly compact gallery, situated in a house along a lovely back lane in Recoleta, is a prime destination on show opening nights. Keep your eyes peeled for hot young artist types, porteño socialites, journalists and the dashing, dickie-bowed Daniel Abate himself. Abate has, among his many other feats, taught Buenos Aires that contemporary art can be red-carpet glam, so dress to impress or you’re better off staying home (we speak from experience). Pasaje Bollini 2170, entre French y Peña, Recoleta (4804 8247/www. abategaleria.com). Bus 10, 37, 110, 118, 128. Open 11am-5pm Mon-Fri, call in advance. Map F4.

Galería Isabel Anchorena For the more traditional side of BA’s art output, head over to Isabel Anchorena, a superbly curated Recoleta gallery that displays the two- and three-dimensional works of over 30 solid, schooled artists. Having made strong showings at past events like the São Paulo Art Biennial and ArteBA fairs, the gallery has switched its focus to exhibiting here at its home base. Libertad 1389, entre Juncal y Arroyo, Recoleta (4811 3959/www.galeria isabelanchorena.com). Bus 67, 92, 93, 130. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. Map D5. Galería Rubbers As you might imagine from the gallery that hosted Andy Warhol’s first Latin American exhibition in 1966, only the most upmarket names in art make it into Rubbers, which is more of an art maestro’s hall of fame than your average gallery. The venue displays a diverse range of works by household Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 123

names like Antonio Seguí and Xul Solar, the quirky artist-inventor whose work gave the gallery clout during its infancy in the late 1950s. For an insight into Solar’s fascinating world, check out the Museo Xul Solar (see p120). Avenida Alvear 1595, y Montevideo, Recoleta (4816 1864/www.rubbers.com. ar). Bus 17, 67, 110, 124, 130, 152. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am1.30pm Sat. Map D5.

established snappers such as Dino Bruzzone and Marcelo Grosman. Try to get to an opening here: the mix of edgy images, a see-and-be-seen crowd and access to high-end wine means you won’t regret it. 1st floor, Honduras 4882, entre Armenia y Gurruchaga (4833 9499/ www.fostercatena.com). Bus 39, 55, 110, 140, 141, 151, 168. Open 1-7.30pm Tue-Sat. Map G2.


Galería Mar Dulce Expect to see simple, colourful paintings, drawings, collages, giclée prints, embroidery and photographs by multi-talented artists, like illustrator and pop singer Isol. Mar Dulce focuses on small-format works, many of which are well-priced. Exhibitions at this gallery, such as ‘+Collective’, show work from established artists like Daniel Santoro as well as emerging talents. More like a stylish friend’s apartment than your typical art gallery, the atmosphere is warm and intimate. Uriarte 1490, entre Gorriti y Cabrera (mobile 15 5319 3597/www. galeriamardulce.blogspot.com). Bus 39, 55, 93, 108, 168. Open 3-8pm Tue-Sat. Map G2.



Elsi del Río This spirited contemporary space is smack bang in the nucleus of Palermo’s trendy art scene. The cast of characters under director Fernando Entin is influenced by everything from graffiti to Japanese art. Exhibitions change every six weeks, with live music and hipsters a regular feature of inauguration parties. Humboldt 1510, entre Cabrera y Gorriti (4899 0171/www.elsidelrio.com. ar). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140. Open 2-8pm Tue-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. Map H2. Gachi Prieto Boundary-busting director Gachi Prieto continues to keep the art scene guessing with her roll call of 24 (mostly local) artists. With nine exhibitions a year self-consciously setting a course for contemporary Latin American art, expect to find everything from monochrome video projections, to artisanal collections of objects and photo manipulations. Uriarte 1976, entre Soler y Nicaragua (4774 6961/www.gachiprietogallery. com). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 34, 39, 55, 111, 166. Open 1-8pm Mon-Fri; noon-6pm Sat. Map G3. Galería Foster Catena This hip first-floor space sits on a much-transited Palermo block and is committed to promoting emerging contemporary artists, as well as

Galería Union Tired of always roaming the streets of Buenos Aires (although that is what they do best), the people at Graffitimundo have found themselves a little place to call home. The street art experts opened a gallery in San Telmo last year, and recently relocated to Palermo, but the gallery is still dedicated to its graffiti roots. Admire the temporary exhibitions, which include works by street art big dogs like Cabaio Spirito, or choose from a range of affordable prints to take home to adorn your own walls. Costa Rica 5929, y Ravignani (mobile 15 3683 3219/www.galeriaunion.com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 95, 108, 111, 168. Open noon-5pm Mon-Fri, call in advance. Map H3.

Hollywood in Cambodia Graffiti: you’ve seen the work plastered all over the city and may even recognise some of the styles. Now you can put names to images at this gallery, run by a ‘collective of collectives’ comprising some of the big names in Buenos Aires graffiti, like Pum Pum and Run Don’t Walk. Entering the gallery requires passing through the equally festooned Post Street bar downstairs, so grab a bottle and a couple of glasses and head up to the heavily tagged terrace. For more fun, learn the tricks of the trade in a stencil workshop with local artists or sign up for a tour with street art experts Graffitimundo (see right). 1st floor, Thames 1885, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua (www. hollywoodincambodia.com.ar). Bus 29, 34, 39, 55, 60, 93, 108, 140, 151. Open 5-9pm Tue-Sun. Map G3. Nora Fisch Leave reality at the door and enter a world that resembles a David Lynch set. New York-educated owner Nora Fisch prefers to deck out her space with mixed media pieces that lie at the extreme end of the conceptual scale. Every torn bit of paper, carefully mounted piece of cardboard or arrangement of lines is meant to say something, and it does so elegantly. Fisch also delights in explaining her works. Avenida Córdoba 5222, entre Uriarte y Godoy Cruz (mobile 15 6235 2030/ www.norafisch.com). Bus 19, 34, 39, 55, 90, 127, 140. Open 1.30-6.30pm Tue-Fri; or by appt. Map G2. Thames This luminous space has more than 30, mostly local and mostly female, artists on its books. The large canvasses stretching down the corridor tend to feature the application of colour in bright, bold patches and jagged streaks. Thames 1776, entre Costa Rica y El Salvador (4832 1968/www. galeriathames.com.ar). Bus 34. Open 2-8pm Tue-Fri; 3-7pm Sat. Map G3. CLASSIC

Daniel Maman Fine Arts New work rubs shoulders with pieces by renowned Argentinian stars including Antonio Berni and Guillermo Roux in this gallery, conveniently situated among the major art museums of Palermo Chico. Get dolled up and drop by this glitzy show space on an exhibition’s opening night, when all the big names in the art world come out to see fresh talent. Avenida del Libertador 2475, entre Bulnes y Ruggieri (4804 3700/www. danielmaman.com). Bus 10, 37, 41, 59, 60, 67, 110. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. Map F5.


Mariana Allievi’s graphic ConTextos series is at Thames

124 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

!Arte x Arte With 1200 sq m at its disposal, Arte x Arte lays claim to being BA’s largest

art gallery. Its exhibitions, of which there are half a dozen a year, are dedicated solely to photography, video and new media, and attract big names from both home and abroad, creating a space for continual exchange between Argentina and the rest of the world. Lavalleja 1062, entre Lerma y Argañarás (4772 6754/www. galeriaartexarte.com). Bus 15, 19, 36, 57, 90, 92, 110. Open 1.30-8pm Tue-Fri; 1.30-4pm Sat. Map F2. CLASSIC

!Ruth Benzacar BA’s first stop for collectors is porteño art doña Orly Benzacar’s gallery, which recently relocated from downtown to Villa Crespo, and is among the most highly regarded galleries in town. Benzacar has well and truly conquered Buenos Aires with her healthy catalogue of fresh-faced art faces and an afternoon spent trawling around the gallery is a sure-fire way to take in some of the city’s top work. Juan Ramírez de Velasco 1287, y Humboldt (4313 8480/www. ruthbenzacar.com). Subte B, Dorrego/ bus 42, 55, 90, 127. Open 2-7pm Mon-Fri. Map H1.


Ruby Galería Owner Irana curates the perfect mix of forward-thinking but accessible art at her gallery on a leafy Colegiales street. The main space is dedicated to a rotating set of exhibitions, but there is always an eclectic mix of homeware items like locally made ceramics, small-press books and affordable etchings by Fábrica de Estampas. Keep an eye on Ruby’s Facebook page for information on upcoming openings featuring young artists and DJs. Céspedes 3065, y Freire (mobile 15 5751 7547/www.galeriaruby.com.ar). Bus 42, 63, 151, 168, 184. Open 3-7.30pm Wed-Sat.

Art tours Artists’ Atelier Tours

These tours around artists’ studios are a great way to get under the skin of BA’s art scene and see process as well as product. The fee is US$100, and there’s a 2-for-1 offer for Time Out readers. The owner also rents out an artisticallyrestored Palermo house. www.arttour.com.ar


At Graffitimundo, hands-down experts in all things street art, friendly bilingual guides steer you around the colourfully sprayed streets of BA on a three-hour tour, which costs from US$25 per person. On Sundays there are graffiti tours on two wheels with Biking Buenos Aires (www. bikingbuenosaires.com) for US$45. www.graffitimundo.com

Film & Media


he news in Buenos Aires often reads like a real life film noir. A prosecutor dies in mysterious circumstances, renegade security services are implicated and there’s a new twist to the tale every day. It should come as no surprise, then, that the city is a breeding ground for crime fiction. The genre has experienced a boom in recent years, with many authors seeing their works translated into English. Since 2011, BA has celebrated crime fiction at the annual festival BAN! (www.buenosairesnegra.com.ar). The fifth edition of the festival will be held this year at the Centro Cultural San Martín (see p120) from July 31 to August 8. Buenos Aires has a well-established history of crime fiction. The first Spanish-language detective novel was published in the Argentinian capital in 1877 (Raúl Waleis’s La Huella del Crimen, for trivia fans), and in the 1940s, heavyweight literary pair Jorge Luis Borges and Adolfo Bioy Casares freed the genre from its ‘Anglo-Saxon constraints’ with their parodic detective Don Isidro Parodi. Yet some argue the genre’s history goes back even further. As novelist Ernesto Mallo, director of BAN!, puts it, ‘The criminal narrative dates back to the foundation of Buenos Aires. Pedro de Mendoza arrived on this territory thanks to money he’d stolen during the Holy Roman

Buenos Aires ....... ...................... Noir Crime fiction is as much a part of BA’s cultural DNA as tango. Joseph Foley traces the genre’s origins and highlights the authors whose works are making their English-language debuts

Empire’s sacking of Rome. Buenos Aires was founded by criminal acts, and it prospered and surpassed other cities in the region thanks to smugglers and slave traffickers.’ Writers have certainly never had to look far for inspiration; real-life cases provide them with plenty of fodder. In Money to Burn (2003), Ricardo Piglia applies a Borgesmeets-Tarantino style to the true story of a 1965 bank robbery, and in Timote (2009), José Pablo Feinmann explores the 1970 kidnapping of former dictator Pedro Aramburu. True to Borges’s legacy, contemporary writers are frequently experimental and boundary-pushing while still decidedly literary, but recent history has led to darker, grittier writing in which tidy narratives are often secondary to the task of exposing social realities. Sergio Bizzio’s Rage depicts the simmering resentment that arises from class inequalities; Mallo’s Inspector Lascano trilogy confronts police corruption and the crimes of the 1976-83 dictatorship; and Claudia Piñeiro’s novels explore the paranoia that lurks inside the elite’s gated communities. Other recent novels are urban and anarchic, and, given Argentinian history, it’s not surprising that the authorities are often the villains. As Mallo says, ‘We’ve had criminal governments such as the different dictatorships that devastated the country.

The criminal narrative dates back to the foundation of Buenos Aires

Romantic bandits, gauchos, rebellious natives and subversive political movements have also contributed their own crimes, and literature has fed off this reality. The production of crime has been incessant, and so has the production of literature.’ NEEDLE IN A HAYSTACK BY ERNESTO MALLO Three corpses. Two bear the hallmarks of military executions, which the police ignore, but the third doesn’t fit the pattern. This is just the first needle in the haystack. At the centre of the story are Inspector Lascano, the one decent cop in Buenos Aires, and Eva, the political revolutionary capable of loving him. Mallo was involved in guerrilla activity in the 1970s and has described this novel as his revenge against the dictatorship. The atmosphere is dark and oppressive, the prose sharp and terse, the characters strong and the development of the unlikely relationship between Lascano and Eva is captivating. THE ISLANDS BY CARLOS GAMERRO Hired to steal information from the secret service, computer hacker and Malvinas (Falklands) War veteran Felipe Félix discovers that the war he fought in never actually ended. What follows is a hallucinatory, darkly comic cyber-thriller in which history is rewritten multiple times and the line between fact and fiction eventually disappears. Highly inventive and breathtakingly ambitious, The

Islands is a satire on nationalism in which Buenos Aires is blown up to exaggerated proportions but remains recognisable. An equally surreal sequel, The Adventure of the Busts of Eva Perón, has just been published in English. HOLY CITY BY GUILLERMO ORSI Kidnappers begin targeting stranded tourists after a cruise ship runs aground, and a former Miss Bolivia is leaving a trail of decapitated bodies across the city. If you’re visiting Buenos Aires, chances are you haven’t read Holy City; if you had, you’d have cancelled your flight. Brutally frank in his portrayal of vice and social decay, Orsi depicts a city rotten to the core. The atmosphere is relentlessly sordid and the plot is complex but skilfully woven, and delivered with just enough irony to raise the occasional grim smile. THURSDAY NIGHT WIDOWS BY CLAUDIA PIÑEIRO The urban decay depicted in Holy City is one of the reasons that by the 1990s, BA’s wealthier residents had begun an exodus to private country clubs and gated communities in the suburbs. Piñeiro follows them to their new homes, and finds that all is not well. The claustrophobic atmosphere comes to a head when three residents are found dead in a swimming pool. Piñeiro has an ear for the voices of moneyed porteños, and she dissects the paranoia and hypocrisy of the upper middle class with surgical precision. Her latest novel Betty Boop is due to be published in English in early 2016.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 125

The basics

Buenos Aires’s status as a cultural capital has never been in doubt. In 2011, UNESCO named the city a World Book Capital, and Argentinian films have twice won the Oscar for Best Foreign Language Film (though 2014’s nomination Relatos salvajes lost out in February 2015 to Poland’s Ida). The city is also home to a host of festivals and events sure to please cinephiles and bookworms. Check out Filba (filba.org.ar) and the Festival Internacional del Libro (el-libro.org.ar) for author talks and book readings, and BAFICI and BAFICI Animando (www. bafici.gov.ar) for screenings of the latest in local cinema.

Film & Media


New releases, from blockbusters to arthouse flicks, are shown widely. The MALBA (see p122) hosts excellent cinema events and lectures. The Alianza Francesa, British Arts Centre, Centro Cultural de la Cooperación, Centro Cultural Matienzo and Centro Cultural Ricardo Rojas (see p120) all screen films, while Teatro Nacional Cervantes (see p137) shows classic Argentinian films for free on Wednesdays and Thursdays at 5pm.

Argentina’s top movie stars Ricardo Darín Easily the country’s biggest box office star, Darín has such celebrity power that director Damián Szifrón let him have the role of his choice for 2014’s smash hit Relatos salvajes. He’s also starred in many Oscar-nominated films. Notable roles Nueve reinas, El hijo de la novia, El secreto de sus ojos. Natalia Oreiro Yes, she’s actually Uruguayan, but Oreiro made her name in Argentinian telenovelas before moving on to cinema and music. Today she can frequently be seen in romcoms and shampoo commercials. Notable roles Sos mi vida, Mi primera boda. Leonardo Sbraraglia Sbraraglia has worked in Spain and Mexico in addition to his native Argentina. He’s also played opposite Hollywood stars Robert DeNiro and Sigourney Weaver. Notable roles Red Lights, Intacto, Relatos salvajes. Soledad Villamil Award-winning Villamil is perhaps best known for her collaborations with director Juan José Campanella and co-star Ricardo Darín, but when not acting she’s also a noted tango and folklore singer. Notable roles El secreto de sus ojos, El mismo amor, la misma lluvia, No sos vos, soy yo.

INFO, TIMINGS AND TICKETS Children’s films are usually dubbed, but original versions are shown as well at selected times and venues. Some cinemas offer late-night shows (trasnoches), and cheaper tickets can be had from Mondays to Wednesdays and at daytime showings. Make sure you arrive early as there might be queues. CONGRESO & TRIBUNALES

Espacio INCAA KM 0 – Gaumont Rivadavia This cinema is supported by the local film institute, and screens independent Argentinian releases. It also has heavily subsidised prices, making it one of the cheapest cinemas around. Avenida Rivadavia 1635, y Montevideo (4382 0003/www.espacios.incaa.gov.ar). Subte A, Congreso/bus 8, 37, 60, 64, 90, 151, 168. Open noon-midnight daily. Tickets AR$4-$8. No credit cards. Map D4. Lorca An excellent option for contemporary indie flicks, Lorca also pays homage to the great films of the golden era: Bergman and Fellini retrospectives are permanent fixtures. Avenida Corrientes 1428, y Uruguay (4371 5017). Subte B, Uruguay/bus 24, 26, 102. Open 1.30-11pm daily. Tickets AR$40-$50. No credit cards. Map D4. SAN TELMO

Buenos Aires Mon Amour This bijou 38-seater shows independent films and is run as a non-profit venture by a pair of local film-lovers who also run cine courses. Reserve online, location given on booking (mobile 15 4413 6283/www. cineclubmonamour.com). Bus 10, 17, 29, 152. Open from 7pm Fri-Sun. Tickets AR$40-$50. No credit cards. Map B4. Other location Avenida Roque Sáenz Peña 1150, Tribunales. PUERTO MADERO

Village Recoleta This cinema in Recoleta Mall (see p96) shows the latest blockbuster flicks. Vicente López 2050, entre Uriburu y Junín (0810 810 2463/www.village cines.com). Bus 10, 108. Open from 11am daily. Tickets AR$65-$95. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. Other location Avenida Rivadavia 5071, Caballito. ABASTO

Hoyts Abasto Buenos Aires This massive 12-theatre shopping centre cinema screens new releases and is packed at the weekends. Abasto shopping centre, Avenida Corrientes 3247, y Anchorena (5238 2700/www.hoyts.com.ar). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 26, 124. Open from 10am daily. Tickets AR$54-$100. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E3. ALMAGRO

Cine Club Eco Find Bergman retrospectives and more obscure international films here. Entry includes a post-screening discussion. 2nd floor, Avenida Corrientes 4940, entre Lavalleja y Julián Álvarez (4854 4126). Subte B, Malabia/bus 24, 36, 55. Open 8pm Sat (reservations essential). Tickets AR$50 suggested donation. No credit cards. Map F1.

Film studies

Buenos Aires is crammed with film and media courses that turn out graduates for the city’s film and advertising industry – plus a few knowledgeable bartenders. The Escuela Nacional de Experimentación y Realización Cinematográfica (Moreno 1199, 4383 2622, www.enerc.gov.ar) in Monserrat is run by INCAA, the national film board, and its programme is among the most selective. The prestigious three-year image and sound design course at the Universidad de Buenos Aires (Ciudad Universitaria, 4789 6200, www. fadu.uba.ar) is famed for its emphasis on putting theory into practice. One of the better and more expensive private institutes in BA is San Telmo’s Universidad del Cine (Pasaje Giuffra 330, 4300 1413, www.ucine.edu.ar), which also organises screenings, seminars and workshops.

Cinemark This modern complex in an upmarket barrio shows the latest Hollywood and Latin American releases. As it’s in a more business-oriented neighbourhood, it’s usually fairly empty. Alicia Moreau de Justo 1920, y Avenida San ¡Foto! Juan (0800 222 2463/ Book a photography tour www.cinemark.com.ar). with Foto Ruta (www. Bus 4, 62, 64. Open foto-ruta.com) to see BA Tune in to local radio for informative talk from noon daily. Tickets through a camera shows or check out the AR$40-$85. Credit lens. indie sounds on Urbana AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. (89.5 FM), Rock & Pop (95.9 Other locations Beruti 3399, Palermo; Avenida La Plata 96, Caballito. FM) and community station Radio La Tribu (88.7 FM). Listen to RECOLETA contemporary rock nacional on Mega (98.3 FM), and tango on stateAtlas Patio Bullrich sponsored La 2x4 (92.7 FM) or hip The city’s most exclusive shopping Malena (89.1 FM). La Mañana con centre shows local films and US hits. Víctor Hugo (Radio Continental, 590 Avenida del Libertador 750, entre Montevideo y Libertad (www.atlascines. AM) is hosted by ex-footballcommentator Víctor Hugo Morales, com.ar). Bus 60, 61, 62, 67. Open and serves current affairs and football from noon daily. Tickets AR$60-$90. chat with a pro-government spin. BA Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E6.

126 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015



Read on

English publications The Argentina Independent This website includes articles on cultural, economic, political, social and environmental issues. www.argentinaindependent.com The Bubble Argentinian news and culture with a critical bite are the bread and butter of this English-language website. www.bubblear.com Buenos Aires Herald This long-running newspaper is sold at kiosks throughout the city. www.buenosairesherald.com My Beautiful Air Visitors and expats will find cultural info on this BA lifestyle blog. www.mybeautifulair.com

Cast (www.bacast.com) is a weekly podcast in ‘Spanglish’ aimed squarely at the expat community. Vorterix Rock (103.1 FM) streams music from many of the bands that play at Teatro Vorterix (see p135). Online radio station Ciclop (www.ciclopradio.com. ar) plays music and shows that provide insights into porteño culture.


While cable TV is popular and offers Hollywood films, sports and subtitled US sitcoms, if your language skills are up to it, there are some Spanish-language shows worth tuning in to on public television. Cable channel Canal á is a useful way into the local arts scene, and sensationalist news channel Crónica TV has to be seen to be (dis)believed.

The web

The city’s official tourism site www. bue.gob.ar/en includes useful information like maps and guides to what’s on around town. The city government’s Festivales de Buenos Aires (www.festivales.gob.ar) is another good way to stay in the loop about BA’s non-stop festivities. Wander Argentina (www. wander-argentina.com) provides detailed coverage of the city’s barrios and attractions and Argentine Soccer (www.argentinesoccer.com) keeps score on the national obsession. Vuenoz Aires (www.vuenosairez. com) is a solid resource for the latest cultural events. Spanish-language magazine Wipe (www.wipe.com.ar) has daily events listings and Glamout (www.glamout.com) has resources on shops, events and nights out. Literary buffs will enjoy bilingual magazine The Buenos Aires Review (www. buenosairesreview.org), while food fans will love popular English-language blog Pick Up the Fork (www. pickupthefork.com). In Spanish, Planeta Joy (www.planetajoy.com) has its finger on the pulse of the gastronomic scene.

BA’s big five Fitness & Sports BOCA JUNIORS Boca have won more international titles than any other Argentinian side – and any other side in the world with the exceptions of Real Madrid and AC Milan. They are also the only team in the ‘big five’ never to have been relegated from the Primera A. Under Rodolfo Arruabarrena, the side are picking themselves up after a few underwhelming years. They play in ‘La Bombonera’ (see p128) in gritty La Boca. Nicknames Los Xeneizes (the Genoese), Los Bosteros (the Cowpats). Current stars Agustín Orión, goalkeeper; César Meli and Andrés Cubas, a pair of young midfielders; and Daniel Osvaldo, wannabe international heart throb and sometime striker, who’s just arrived on loan. Famous alumni Hugo Gatti, eccentric goalkeeper; Silvio Marzolini, Argentina’s best-ever left back; Antonio Rattín, gentleman captain in spite of his reputation in England after the 1966 World Cup; and Carlos Tévez, currently of Juventus. Diego Maradona, too, but he played first for, and longer with, another local club, Argentinos Juniors. Glory moment Aside from when River got relegated in 2011, the fans’ favourite win was the 2007 Copa Libertadores title (South America’s club championship), led by captain Juan Román Riquelme. RIVER PLATE River own the country’s largest stadium, the Estadio Monumental (see p128), and have won the Argentinian league more times than any other club. After a rollercoaster decade, they are now on the up. Last year they won one of two league titles plus the 2014 Copa Sudamericana (the second-tier continental cup, equivalent to the Europa League). Fans expect attacking football, and under current

Argentinian football is about a lot more than Lionel Messi. Sam Kelly gives the lowdown on the five football clubs that dominate the local league

boss Marcelo Gallardo, they won’t be disappointed. Nicknames Los Millonarios (the Millionaires), Las Gallinas (the Chickens). Current stars Marcelo Barovero, goalkeeper; Matías Kranevitter, deep-lying midfielder; and Leonardo Pisculichi and Gonzalo Martínez, playmakers. Famous alumni Amadeo Carrizo and Ubaldo Fillol, perhaps Argentina’s greatest goalkeepers; Daniel Passarella, definitely Argentina’s greatest defender; Javier Mascherano, current national team captain; and Uruguayan playmaking legend Enzo Francescoli. Glory moment Lifting the 1986 Copa Libertadores to become champions of South America for the first time. RACING CLUB One of the two giants of Avellaneda in Greater Buenos Aires and, in their words, Argentina’s ‘first big club’, Racing claimed seven league titles in a row in the 1910s – a record that remains unequalled. In 1967, they defeated Scotland’s Celtic in the Intercontinental Cup, becoming the first Argentinian team, at club or national level, to be crowned world champions. They play in ‘El Cilindro’ (the Cylinder). Nickname La Academia (The Academy). Current stars Sebastián Saja, penalty-taking goalkeeper; Gustavo Bou and Diego Milito, forward pairing who drove the club to the 2014 Primera title (for the 17th time). Famous alumni Roberto Perfumo, who played alongside River’s Passarella in one of Argentina’s best centre back pairings. Glory moment Winning the league in 2001 – Racing hadn’t won for 30 years and were said to be cursed. INDEPENDIENTE The other Avellaneda giants, Independiente have won the Copa Libertadores seven times – more than any other club. In 2014, they returned from the indignity of a season in the second division,

before a credible fourthplace finish in the second half of the year championship. Their stadium – the Libertadores de América, brand new but not yet finished as the cash keeps running out – is the place to go if you want goals and aren’t fussy about which side provides them. Nickname Los Diablos Rojos (the Red Devils). Current stars Diego Rodríguez, much overworked penalty-taking goalkeeper; and Federico Mancuello, attacking midfielder-cum-forward. Famous alumni Arsenio Erico, a Paraguayan striker who is both Independiente’s and Argentina’s all-time top scorer; Ricardo Bochini, a playmaker and Maradona’s idol; and Sergio Agüero, currently of Manchester City. Glory moment Winning the Copa Libertadores in 1984 for the seventh time. SAN LORENZO DE ALMAGRO Not actually from Almagro, but rather Boedo, San Lorenzo play in the Nuevo Gasómetro in Bajo Flores (a long story involving the 1976-83 military dictatorship and a French supermarket chain). San Lorenzo are Pope Francis’s team, and delighted the pontiff by winning the Copa Libertadores in 2014, making them the reigning champions of South America. However, their domestic form is not so hot of late. Nickname Los Cuervos (the Crows). Current stars Néstor Ortigoza and Juan Mercier, midfield duo who drove the club to the Libertadores win last year; and Mauro Matos, centre forward, frequently pulled from the subs’ bench. Famous alumni José Sanfilippo, whose greatness as a goal scorer was only surpassed by how great he thinks he was. Glory moment The club were mocked for never having won the Copa Libertadores, so last year’s win was particularly momentous.

The essentials

Football will always be Argentina’s number one sport, but Buenos Aires is home to plenty of other fitness pursuits. The international CrossFit craze continues to inspire porteños to get in shape, and many locals take to the city’s green spaces for running and outdoor sports. And as Buenos Aires edges closer towards environmental awareness, the local government is continually constructing more bicycle lanes to allow locals to make their commute on a two-wheeler. Besides international football superstar Lionel Messi, Argentina has produced a fair share of champions in other disciplines. The recently retired ‘Maradona del hockey’ Luciana Aymar continues to be recognised as the best field hockey player in the world, and La Dolfina’s captain, Adolfo Cambiaso, remains Argentina’s adored polo superstar. Tennis luminary Juan Martín del Potro, however, has struggled to come back from a recurrent wrist injury. If football all the time is what you’re after though, you’ve come to the right place. Brush up on the local football scene by subscribing to the Hand of Pod podcast on iTunes, hosted by British expat Sam Kelly, and then get yourself to a game.

Spectator sports BOXING

Boxing’s glory days peaked in the mid 1980s, but the sport still draws crowds to Luna Park (see p134), BA’s answer to Madison Square Garden, where the red carpet is rolled out every month or so for the ritual of the Saturday night fight. Smaller matches are sometimes held at the Federación Argentina de Box (Castro Barros 75, 4981 8615, www.fabox.com.ar) in Almagro. FOOTBALL

Today, the majority of the 30 first division teams are located in and around BA. The league is split into two seasons: inicial (opening) from August to December and final (closing) from February to July. Football in Argentina tends to be spirited, highly competitive and a source of national pride. The best-known team is Club Atlético Boca Juniors, which play at the Estadio Alberto J Armando in La Boca, more commonly known as ‘La Bombonera’ – the chocolate box. The so-called superclásico fixtures between Boca Juniors and arch-rivals Club Atlético River Plate are thought by some to be the greatest ‘derbies’ in the world. Other well-known teams include Club Atlético Independiente, Racing Club and the Pope’s team of choice, San Lorenzo de Almagro. For Boca Juniors and River Plate matches, be prepared to pay much higher prices for tickets than for other teams. Tickets are not sold at the stadiums, and those sold by touts in the streets surrounding the Bombonera are

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 127

Fitness & Sports

usually fakes – you’ve been warned! Your only viable option for getting to a game, unless you happen to be friends with a member, is to book through agencies like Tangol (4363 6000, www.tangol.com). Tour prices start from AR$1250 for a ticket in the popular area (where bags of wee, among other things, have been known to fly), and include transport to and from the game. For tickets in the platea (more comfortable and with better positioned seats) and for the big matches, the asking price can start from as high as AR$2500. Vamos a la Cancha (www. vamosalacancha.com.ar) also takes small groups by minibus to Boca, River and other matches, sitting in the platea areas. Tickets start from AR$900. For any team other than Boca Juniors and River Plate, tickets are best bought from the club stores, check the club’s website for details. The atmosphere can be just as electric at matches at the other big clubs or between the smaller teams around the city. Prices for the rowdy popular area are set at AR$90, but most clubs tack on an extra AR$50-$90 in an attempt to make some money. The cost of the platea seats depends on the popularity of the given club, and ranges from AR$170 to AR$800. Don’t take valuables to any football match, and keep your wits about you for occasional instances of violence, which are mostly restricted to the popular areas. Estadio Alberto J Armando (La Bombonera) Watching a game here is a unique experience: come kick-off, a cacophony of fireworks and abuse greets players and refs, and even if you’re not a fully fledged footie fan, it’s hard not to be moved by the spectacle. The platea baja in the stands area is your recommended vantage point. Popular tickets will put you in with the hardcore fans: in this case, not a particularly safe place to be. Neither is the area around the stadium, so leave valuables at home and avoid walking around the area unnecessarily. Brandsen 805, y la Vía, La Boca (4309 4700/www.bocajuniors.com.ar). Bus 10, 29, 53, 64. Map B1.

catch smaller meets all year round. The only grass track in Argentina, Zona Norte’s Hipódromo de San Isidro (Avenida Márquez 504, 4743 4011, www.hipodromosanisidro.com.ar) hosts races on Wednesdays and at weekends, with entry at AR$6. Turf’s most important venue, Hipódromo Argentino de Palermo (Avenida del Libertador 4101, 4778 2800, www. palermo.com.ar) in Palermo hosts year-round meets. Check the website for the schedule. Entrance is free, betting is on the tote system and no alcohol can be purchased once inside the track.

catered to, with theoretical and practical lessons and day trips available. Transfers to and from the estancia are included in the US$160 price of the polo day, as is a hearty asado lunch. If getting on a horse isn’t on your agenda, you can still book a night at the beautiful estancia, or watch a professional polo game.

Copa Claro (www.copaclaro.com), which takes place at the Buenos Aires Lawn Tennis Club (Olleros 1510) in Palermo. Home Davis Cup ties are generally held at Parque Roca (Avenida Roca 3490, Villa Soldati), and tickets sell out quickly. Check www.ticketbis.com.ar for availability.

Participation sports


Despite winning their first ever match in 2014’s Rugby Championship, Argentina’s national team, nicknamed ‘Los Pumas’, still finished last in the tournament for the third consecutive year. All POLO fingers are crossed for 2015’s World Cup. Polo is played in the For more riding On the local scene, the spring in BA, with the opportunities, book a día Argentinian rugby season starting in del campo at one of the season runs from March September and running many estancias located to November and in 2014 through to November outside of the capital Hindú Club (Ruta 202 and December when the (see p164). y Avenida Del Golf, 4741 venerable Argentinian 6150, www.hinduclub.com. Open is played at the Campo ar) were victorious, beating other Argentino de Polo de big club San Isidro Club (SIC) Palermo (Avenida del Libertador 4300, 4777 6444, www.aapolo.com). Try (Blanco Encalada 404, 4766 2030, www. Ticketek for tickets. For the rest of the sanisidroclub.com.ar), and 2013’s surprise winners Club Universitario year, the grounds remain relatively de Buenos Aires (CUBA) (Avenida quiet, though chukkas are played Perón y Pasaje Juan Cruz Migliore, elsewhere in other seasons, with the exception of winter. If you want to try 4660 0655, www.cuba.org.ar). your hand at polo in a peaceful setting just 45 minutes away from the city, you TENNIS The majority of tennis courts in can’t go wrong with Argentina Polo Argentina are clay, which explains why Day (www.argentinapoloday.com.ar). Argentinian players generally favour The price of US$175 includes transfer that type of surface. If you happen to to and from the estancia, a steady be in town when there’s a professional supply of wine and home-made empanadas, an asado and a polo match tournament on, it’s well worth checking out the unique atmosphere of and lesson. Even if you’ve never been an Argentinian match. Crowds bring on a horse before, let alone knocked a football-style chanting and passion ball around while doing so, it’s a good which, though they may annoy introduction to the sport of kings. international umpires to no end, make Argentina Polo Fields (www. for a fun spectacle. The biggest argentinapolofields.com), also offers polo excursions at a tranquil estancia tournament held in Argentina is the outside the capital. All levels are Abierto de Tenis de Buenos Aires or

Parque Norte (Avenida Cantilo y Guiraldes, 4787 1382, www. parquenorte.com) and Palermo’s Club de Amigos (Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3885, 4801 1213, www.clubdeamigos. org.ar) are recommended multi-sport venues (centros deportivos) which have swimming pools, tennis courts and football pitches.



With 18 lanes and plenty of pool tables, Belgrano’s Paloko Bowling (Avenida Cabildo 454, 4775 8279, www. palokobowling.com.ar) is full most nights. Get there early to avoid the long wait. Bar and after-office hotspot Tazz (Avenida Rafael Obligado y Salguero, 4807 8299) has six computerised bowling lanes, as well as pool and table football tables and dart boards. CYCLING

Buenos Aires’s flat, gridded streets are ideal for exploring on two wheels, and with the introduction of extensive cycle paths and free bicycle rentals from EcoBici (ecobici.buenosaires.gob.ar), the city has become more bike-friendly. Still, great care should be taken and defensive cycling practised. Check the website La Vida en Bici (www. lavidaenbici.com/mapa) for a map of bike paths. To sign up for the EcoBici scheme, you’ll need your original ID plus a photocopy. Hugely popular Critical Mass (www.masacriticabsas. com.ar) rides take place on the first Sunday of each month, with two-wheelers congregating at 4pm at the Obelisco (see p114). There’s also a Critical Mass ride on the night of the full moon, leaving from the Obelisco at 9pm. La Bicicleta Naranja (Pasaje Giuffra 308, San Telmo, 4362 1104; also at Nicaragua 4825, Palermo, www. labicicletanaranja.com.ar) hires bikes for AR$40 per hour, while Biking Buenos Aires (Peru 988, 4300 5373 www.bikingbuenosaires.com) offers half- and full-day city tours (US$50$90) and has teamed up with Graffitimundo (see p124) for weekend graffiti tours (US$45) around Palermo and Villa Crespo. Urban Biking (Esmeralda 1084, 4568 4321, www.urbanbiking.com) has half- and full-day city tours (US$60-$110) and a full day excursion to Tigre via train and bike, which also includes kayaking on the river (US$140).

Estadio Monumental Home to Club Atlético River Plate, the Monumental is the largest stadium in the country and, thanks to its location in the upper-class barrio of Núñez, probably one of the safest. It’s also the only all-seater stadium in BA that comes close to meeting FIFA standards. River Plate play at home every other weekend during the football season, and major concerts are held here all year round. Guided tours of the museum are available from 11am to 5pm daily, and cost AR$110. Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 7597, y Udaondo, Núñez (4789 1156/www. cariverplate.com.ar). Bus 12, 29, 130.


128 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

Locals get in shape at the Facultad de Derecho (see p116)



The year’s most important races fall in November and December, but you can

Whether it’s joining an impromptu game in the park or getting a group together and hiring out a pitch, you’ll never be far from a good football

match. Listen up for the words cancha de fútbol (football pitch); there are hundreds in the city. Try Buenos Aires Fútbol Amigos (mobile 15 3832 8341, www.fcbafa.com), which organises weekly five-a-side games and asados for locals and foreigners of all levels (AR$70 a game). GOLF

Though BA has no stand-out golf tournament to speak of, recreational golfers can have a swing at the Campo de Golf de la Ciudad de Buenos Aires (Avenida Tornquist 6300, 4772 7261, www.campogolfpalermo.com), which sports an 18-hole course. After 1.30pm a game costs AR$70 during the week and AR$100 on the weekend; before 1pm it’s AR$170 in the week, AR$200 at the weekend. Renting clubs with a trolley costs from AR$330. There’s also plenty to aim for at the modern driving range, Driving Norte (Avenida Cantilo y La Pampa, 4788 5666, www.driving-norte.com.ar), from a green on an island to the huge net protecting the religious theme park, Tierra Santa, next door (see p118). HORSE-RIDING


Besides freestyle skating, Winter (Yerbal 1617, 4631 7883, www. winterweb.com.ar) in Caballito holds ice hockey and artistic skating classes, with rink rates starting at AR$80 per hour or AR$90 for the day. RACQUET SPORTS

Tucked under the autopista (motorway) 25 de Mayo, Pasco Tenis (Cochabamba 2258, 4941 0333, www. pascotenis.com.ar, from AR$190 per hour) is a well-equipped complex with quality clay tennis courts suitable for all weather. WATER SPORTS

Most aquatic and nautical activities on the Río de la Plata take place in Zona Norte, 45 minutes from downtown, with centres located in and around San Isidro and Tigre. Renosto Náutica y Deportes in San Fernando (Avenida del Libertador 1999, 4744 6090,

www.wake-board.com.ar) specialises in waterskiing and wakeboarding. At Puro Remo (Dique 5, Olga Cossettini, 4313 8008, www.puroremo. com.ar), you can take in the sights of Puerto Madero (see p118) as you kayak, row or stand-up paddle board your way down the river. One hour rental costs AR$150, five classes with an instructor are AR$1400. Enquire as well about the latest sporting craze – stand-up paddle board yoga. To row or kayak down the Delta, try Tigre’s Delta Rowing (Lavalle 945, mobile 15 4971 9342, www.escueladeremo.com), which offers classes, boat and kayak hire. Popular riverside leisure spot Perú Beach (Elcano 794, 4793 5986, www.peru-beach.com.ar) in Acassuso, reached by the Tren de la Costa, offers kitesurfing, kayaking and windsurfing, as well as roller hockey and skateboarding. Single outings start from AR$250.



Vitruvian (www.vitruvianba.com) runs gruelling group CrossFit sessions in Palermo and Recoleta (AR$50 per group session or AR$350 a month). Try your hand (and feet) at kickboxing with Akibo (Avenida Federico Lacroze 2430, 4771 5537). DANCE AND TRAPEZE

Cultural centres including the Ricardo Rojas and Borges (see p120) host classes from tango and flamenco to contemporary and jazz. La Huella (Bulnes 892, Almagro, 2066 1153, www. lahuellaespaciodearte.blogspot.com.ar) offers flamenco classes as well as dancehall, African dance, forró, jazz, tap and belly dancing. Chacarita’s Dance&Move (Jorge Newberry 3663, 4554 8991, www.dancemovestudio.com. ar/en) has hip hop, breakdance and

yoga classes. Swingin’ Buenos Aires (www.swinginbuenosaires.com. ar) runs swing classes at venues around the city. La Viruta (see p141) offers classes in rock’n’roll and salsa as well as tango. All styles of Brazilian dance are taught at Balaio (Mansilla 2787, Barrio Norte, 4963 6066, www.balaio.com.ar). At Tedancari (Avenida Corrientes 4534, Almagro, 4504 4115, www.tedancari. com), instructors teach dance styles from Afro-Cuban to rumba. For modern and classical dance, check out the schools run by Noemí Coelho and Rodolfo Olguín (Montevideo 787, Tribunales, 4812 5483, www. coelholguin.com; also at Blanco Encalada 2126, Belgrano, 4781 0130). For those looking to try trapeze, juggling or tightrope, circus schools abound, including Mamarula Escuela de Acrobacia (mobile 15 3290 8315, www.escueladeacrobacia. com.ar). Or get airborne at Brenda Angiel aerial dance school (Bartolomé Mitre 4272, Almagro, 4983 6980, www.danzaerea.com.ar). For information on tango, see page 139. GYMS & SPAS

Most larger hotels let non-guests use their facilities for a fee. Slick, clean and busy, the Megatlón (www. megatlon.com) chain has all the latest exercise devices, offers classes and has branches throughout the city. Rates are from AR$230 per day or AR$1010 per month. One of the city’s most exclusive clubs, Le Parc Gym & Spa (San Martín 645, 4311 9191, www.leparc.com) has exercise machines, a pool, squash courts and beauty treatments. Rates are AR$250 per day, AR$500 for one week or AR$1040 per month. PILATES AND YOGA

Delightful yoga instructors Rocío and Carla will take you through your

stretches at the Centro Prema (Jufré 663, 4771 2068, www.centroprema.com. ar). A class costs AR$100, four classes AR$300. Buena Onda Yoga (www. buenaondayoga.net) is an American-run studio that holds group and private classes in English and Spanish at locations across the city for US$80 a month. Meanwhile Bikram Yoga Buenos Aires (Avenida Las Heras 3541, 4800 1985, www.bikramyoga.com. ar) is the only bikram studio in the city, with rates from AR$588 per month for four classes. Lunchtime sessions are in English. At pilates studio La Usina Pilates (Studio 18, Costa Rica 4684, 4831 2534, www.pilateslausina.blogspot. com) in Palermo, prices start at AR$390 per month for four classes. For private or group yoga and pilates classes with an experienced British instructor, contact Nicola Tarbuck (see p109). RUNNING

Veteran marathoners and iPod-rocking joggers go to Palermo’s Tres de Febrero park. Hammer out your workout on the marked 1600m loop around the lake, or head out on dirt trails that take you along the safe, tree-lined Avenida Figueroa Alcorta. Scores of running groups can be found here too: if you’d like to join, just head for the Rosedal (rose garden), then ask around. The best routes downtown are the flat promenades along Puerto Madero or the red-earth tracks in the Reserva Ecológica (see p118). SWIMMING

Swimming and the murky Río de la Plata ought not to be mentioned in the same sentence – take one look at the water and you’ll see it’s far too polluted. Instead, try gym chains with pools such as Megatlón. In Belgrano, Acercar (José Hernández 1350, 4788 3352, www.natatorioacercar.com.ar) has lap lanes open to the public; entry costs from AR$160 for a day pass.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 129

Fitness & Sports

Most estancias (ranches) in Buenos Aires province offer day and weekend packages, which include as much riding as your backside can stand plus, more often than not, post-ride asados and country-chic accommodation. A stand-out option is Estancia Los Dos Hermanos (www.estancialosdoshermanos. com). For a more structured approach within the city limits, Palermo’s Club Alemán de Equitación (Avenida Dorrego 4045, y Lugones, 4772 6289) provides riding and showjumping classes. Located 30 minutes south of the city in a gorgeous forest reserve, Caballos a la Par (Apartment 2E, Lima 529, 5248 3592, www.caballosalapar.com) offers half-day excursions with one-on-one lessons for novices and experts. Whatever your level though, the class is sure to make you break a sweat. If it’s polo you’re into – beginner or not – then refer to our section on the sport of kings (see p128).

Take a tour of La Boca with Biking Buenos Aires

The scene

Gay & Lesbian

Jeremy Helligar’s new book is anything but shy

The truth about black men

Emily Jensen chats with writer Jeremy Helligar about his new travel memoir


ailing originally from the US Virgin Islands, writer Jeremy Helligar grew up in the United States but has spent much of his adult life travelling the globe. He’s lived on nearly every continent, spent a few adventurous and amorous years in BA, and has put his experiences down on paper in his new travel memoir Is It True What They Say About Black Men?: Tales of Love, Lust and Language Barriers on the Other Side of the World. Time Out chatted with Jeremy about what it’s like to travel as a gay black man in BA and abroad. Your book’s title references a pervasive stereotype about black men. What other preconceptions were you confronted with in BA? Well, in the gay community, black men are expected to be wellendowed, great in bed and, of course, tops. People also assumed I was straight, particularly women, and I suspected it had to do with the image of the macho black male. That isn’t really me, but people often saw my skin colour before anything else. I was once hit on by a group of women and had to kiss my straight male friend to convince them I was gay. And when I did, they were absolutely disgusted. I couldn’t help but think that episode wouldn’t have happened if I were white.

There’s a saying that there’s no racism in Argentina because there are no black people, but your book challenges that notion. Why do you think anti-black sentiment appears in Argentina? As I realised in BA, in Bangkok and in Australia, just because there are few black people in a country doesn’t mean the people there are clueless about black people. They see us in the media, and they get all of those second-hand and largely out-dated stereotypes. The biggest problem with the paucity of black people is that there’s no one around to offset these stereotypes. Hence a question like ‘Is it true what they say about black men?’ becomes a normal, acceptable icebreaker because they really don’t know.

again. My worst experience, and this happened twice, was having a guy go from hitting on me to calling me the n-word after I rejected him. One of them gets an entire chapter in the book.

On to dating: give us the good, the bad and the histérico of the BA dating scene. The best thing about gay Argentinian guys is how open and expressive they are. You don’t do the extended dance that you do in other countries because guys are generally very bold. On the other hand, once they’ve got your attention, they often lose interest. It’s like if they can get you, then you must be defective. I remember this one guy, Ezequiel, spent five minutes after we had sex telling me how amazing I was, yet I never heard from him

How does Argentina compare to other countries when it comes to championing gay rights? I’m still not sure what to make of Argentina’s stance on same-sex marriage. It’s such a macho culture, so it completely floored me that it was the first country in South America to legalise it. But then, I think gays are more integrated into the mainstream social fabric in BA. I’ve never seen more ‘mixed’ bars and clubs anywhere as I saw in BA. I always said it’s the only city where gays and straights can go to the same places and all have an equal shot at hooking up.

130 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

Is it easier or more difficult to find love in Argentina than in other countries? I think gay Argentinian men are more relationship-oriented than guys anywhere else I’ve lived. There’s a strong romantic impulse, and as it’s a very family-oriented culture, being in a relationship is seen as the norm. It’s something that people pursue with more gusto than they do their careers, which makes it totally different from cities like New York or Sydney, where I live now.

Is It True What They Say About Black Men? is available as a paperback and an e-book through Amazon. Follow Jeremy via his blog (jeremyhelligar.blogspot.com) or on Twitter (@Theme4Gr8Cities).

Though there’s no dedicated gay neighbourhood in Buenos Aires, the city has no shortage of bars, club nights and resources for LGBTQ locals and visitors. Barrios like Palermo and San Telmo are rife with queer-friendly hangouts, where people of all sexual orientations and identities are welcome. The gay scene parties hard, but it works hard, too. Get to know local activists at organisations like Comunidad Homosexual Argentina (see p132) and Casa Brandon (see p132), which provide safe spaces for community members and their allies, as well as a packed agenda of activities, classes and events. Perhaps tying the knot is on your agenda? Argentina was the first South American country to legalise same-sex marriage, and foreign couples can obtain a marriage license in a matter of days. Contact Fabulous Weddings (see p132) for assistance with everything from picking a wedding outfit to getting documentation. INFORMATION AND SAFETY Several travel agencies such as Hadrianus Gay Travel (www. hadrianus.com.ar) are devoted to serving gay tourists. BA4U (www. ba4uapartments.com.ar) provides apartment rental services and helpful information. Other gay friendly accommodation can be found at Buenos Aires Stay (Avenida Santa Fe 1970, 3220 7138), which also has a Facebook page (www.facebook.com/ GayBuenosAiresStayGuides) with happenings in BA’s gay scene. Look out for the excellent free listings guides GMAPS (www.gaymaps.org) and Circuitos Cortos BsAs Gay (www.circuitoscortos.com.ar) in shops, bars and hotels. AG Magazine (www. agmagazine.info) is also an excellent online source of local and international LGBTQ news. A word from the wise to the horny: male prostitutes (taxi boys, as they’re known in BA) continue to be an unavoidable – and illegal – fact of the city’s nightlife. So if you’re not leaving alone, choose your post-club escort carefully. Now get out and have fun!

On the town TOURS

Out & About Gay Pub Crawl This fabulous pub crawl is a sure-fire way to mingle with both locals and travellers. The tour price gets you an hour of all-you-can-swallow beer, wine, tapas and pizza followed by a visit to three of Palermo’s hottest gay-friendly joints where crawlers are treated to a welcome shot and drink specials. By the time the group hits the boliche (VIP entrance included to popular club night Glam), participants have generally amassed a whole gang of new amigos and enough social lubricant to keep the party going until well past dawn. Check website for meeting point (www.outandaboutpubcrawl.com). Tours 10pm Thu, Sat. AR$150.


Bach Bar There are no frills at this charming little lesbian bar in Palermo. The one-drink cover charge is a bargain in exchange for a guaranteed blast in what must be the friendliest lesbian joint in town. Don’t miss the live music and strippers on Wednesdays and Thursdays, or karaoke on Sundays. Cabrera 4390, y Julián Álvarez, Palermo (mobile 15 5184 0137). Bus 36, 39, 110. Open from 11pm Wed-Sun. No credit cards. Map F2. Flux A popular fixture in the centre of town, this basement bar attracts a mixture of tourists and business travellers itching for an early drink. Thursday night draws in the biggest crowds, with pop megastars like Lady Gaga and Britney Spears making up the soundtrack, while Saturday’s two-for-one cocktails until 10pm make Flux the perfect previa spot. Located behind an unassuming black door, the bar is easy to miss. Once inside, the vibe is chilled, the lights are low and the tropical cocktails come cheap and fast. Marcelo T de Alvear 980, entre Suipacha y Carlos Pellegrini, Retiro (5252 0258/fluxbarbuenosaires. blogspot.com.ar). Subte C, San Martín/ bus 10, 17, 115, 129. Open from 7pm daily. No credit cards. Map D5. D


!Fiesta Plop What started as an underground party has grown up with its uber-young revellers who now range from barely out of their teen wonder years to late twenties and beyond. Cheap booze and a mix of straight-up pop, rock and cumbia help you keep up with the energised crowd of mostly local gays and lesbians. Every week has a new theme, with a team of dancers and actors putting on a performance that’s worth the AR$120 cover charge alone. Plop tends to pack in the crowds, so get there early to avoid the long queue, and prepare for a night of sweaty body pumping. If you can’t get in, go back on Saturday for Plop’s sister party, Fiesta Puerca. Fridays at Teatro Vorterix, Avenida Federico Lacroze 3455, entre Delgado y Avenida Álvarez Thomas, Colegiales (www.facebook.com/fiestaplop). Bus 19, 39, 76, 93. Open from 12.30am. Fiesta Whip Hundreds of downtown club kids make Whip their Friday night fiesta of choice. This party has mayhem, disco balls, dancefloors and drag queens. The AR$90 entrance fee can be avoided by getting your name on a list, but with frequent barra libre (open bar) nights, the price certainly doesn’t keep the local club fiends away from the fun. Fridays at Amerika, Gascón 1040, entre Estado de Israel y Rocamora, Almagro (www.facebook.com/ FiestaWhip). Bus 36, 92, 106, 151, 168. Open from 1am. Map F2.

Pride Hollywood If you’re looking to escape the buzzing streets for a quiet coffee, the relaxing gay- and hetero-friendly atmosphere at Pride Hollywood is just the thing. While the original Pride in San Telmo is a long-standing favourite for the afternoons, this branch, situated on the cobbled corner of a tree-lined street, is livelier in the evenings and has a lovely menu of Italian cuisine. Humboldt 1897, y Costa Rica, Palermo (4776 6197/www.pridehollywood.com. ar). Bus 34, 39. Open 10am-9pm Mon-Thu; 9am-2am Fri-Sun. No credit cards. Map H3. D Sitges Sitges is one of BA’s few options for gays and lesbians who’ve tossed out their dancing shoes or are looking for a bar stool where they can kill an hour or two before heading to nearby Amerika (see p132).The drinks are no bargain,

all-you-can-eat pizza, tarot card readers and karaoke, of course. The opposite sex, it seems, wants the same thing too, because while Fiesta Jolie started out as a purely lesbian and bi night, it now attracts hot young things of all genders and sexual orientations. The new space features three dancefloors, with three different DJs and beats to choose from; DJ Fabián Jara spins pop music on one, Nicolás Etchelecu keeps the crowd moving to punk and hip hop on another, while the third floor has a new guest DJ every week. Free entry and themed nights keep the crowds coming. Wednesdays at Tazz, Armenia 1744, y Costa Rica, Palermo (www.facebook. com/fiestajolie). Bus 39, 110, 140, 141. Open 9pm-5am. Map G3.

Have a picture-perfect wedding with Fabulous Weddings (see p132)

NEW La Guarra A seriously solid solution to Buenos Aires’s lack of viable nightlife options for gay girls, friendly La Guarra offers an effervescent mix of queer guys and girls. This pleasantly underground party from the same people behind Fiesta Jolie (see left) is aimed at queer chicks, but garners a diverse crowd thanks to its infectiously catchy mix of pop, cumbia and Latin indie music sets, and affordable bar offerings (the AR$50-$100 admission buys you access to the open bar). It has a little bit of everything for practically everyone on the spectrum. Fridays at Avenida Sarmiento y Avenida Casares, Palermo (www. fiestaguarra.com). Bus 33, 37, 45, 160. Open 11.45pm-7am. Map G5.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 131

Gay & Lesbian

Peuteo Peuteo is a lifesaver for the pre-boliche crowd looking to get a head start on a night of drinking and dancing. Located in the epicentre of Palermo’s nightlife, this hetero-friendly bar fills to the brim with a young gay crowd, before they head off to a club come 2am. The name is a play on words (hint: it’s an iteration of a derogatory term for gay men), and even more playful are the adorable bartenders who concoct an array of cocktails designed by the experts at Frank’s (see p76). Gurruchaga 1867, entre Costa Rica y Nicaragua, Palermo (4831 8507/www. peuteo.com). Bus 15, 39, 55, 111, 141. Open 7pm-3am Wed-Sat; 2-10pm Sun. No credit cards. Map G3. D

but getting hammered isn’t exactly the Fridays at Alsina, approx monthly, Alsina 940, Monserrat (mobile 15 point here, unless it’s Friday (when a AR$100 wristband at the door gets you 3430 2711/www.facebook.com/fiesta. as much beer and liquor – local brands dorothy). Subte A, Piedras/bus 2, 17, 56. Open from 12.30am. Map C4. only – as you can handle). Drag comedy and strippers who grin and Fiesta Eyeliner bare it all liven up the mood, and Inclusive party Eyeliner is aimed at there’s karaoke fun to be had on Sundays. (On weekends, pick up a pass anyone who identifies themselves as ‘queer, pop-rocker and underground’ or to Glam on the way out.) Avenida Córdoba 4119, entre Palestina wants to bust moves to a hodgepodge of cumbia, ’90s pop, grunge rock and y Pringles, Palermo (4861 3763/www. reggaeton. Eyeliner takes facebook.com/sitgesbuenosaires). ‘hetero-friendly’ to a whole Bus 92, 140, 168. Open from new level, so don’t be 11pm Wed-Sun. No surprised if that cute credit cards. Map F2. guy you had your eye Shall we dance? CLUB NIGHTS on ends up leaving La Marshall in El Beso with a girl who looks Fiesta Dorothy (see p140) or Tango like she walked off the Put on by the Rheo Queer at Buenos Ayres set of The Matrix. Group, the city’s gay Club (see p141) are Good vibes and cheap event powerhouse, this same-sex tango drinks ensure the queue fiesta requires you to get nights. here is always epic, and on ready for a huge night, where nights when the turnout is DJs spin electronic and pop remixes and three-storey high video screens put expected to be more than they can handle, Fiesta Eyeliner takes its party you in the mood to dance it out with to Perón 1281. The first 400 people to 2,000 partygoers. It helps that the night arrive snag free entry, so don’t waste draws some of BA’s best-looking guys time arriving fashionably late. and gals, from pill-popping musculocas Saturdays at Hipólito Yrigoyen 851, dancing shirtless on the main floor entre Piedras y Tacuarí, Monserrat downstairs to young model wannabes. (www.facebook.com/FiestasEyeliner). Consider getting a VIP table with a group of friends for AR$2800 (AR$1800 Subte A, Piedras/bus 17, 22, 29, 39, 45, 129. Open 11.45pm-6am. Map D4. of which goes towards drinks). If you can’t cough up that much change, buy a Fiesta Jolie regular ticket in advance via Ticketek So, what do women want? A good (see p134) for AR$120 (AR$150 on the fancy dress party, free ice-cream, door).

Homo Sapiens Handily located just a block away from Amerika (see left), this complex has private cabins, drinks, a movie zone, saunas and a smoking area. Gascón 956, y Rocamora, Almagro (4862 6519/www.h-sapiens.com.ar). Subte B, Medrano/bus 24, 160. Open noon-midnight daily. Admission AR$100. Map F2.

Gay & Lesbian

La Guarra (see p131)

!Rheo The place to be seen on Saturdays, this weekly party in Crobar’s side space has three things going for it: BA’s best-looking gay crowd, a friendly party vibe and a massive, hopping outdoor area. You can shell out AR$2000 for a VIP table, but even the AR$80 cover charge (AR$120 after 2am) is sure to guarantee a good time. The night before public holidays, the party changes its name to Human and relocates to Crobar’s main dancefloor. Keep an eye on Rheo’s website for info on one of the biggest, gayest parties of the year, Bagfest, held every November and March. Saturdays at Crobar, Marcelino Freyre e Infanta Isabel, Paseo de la Infanta, Palermo (mobile 15 3430 2711/ www.rheo.com.ar). Bus 10, 34, 160. Open from 12.30am. Map G5. CLUBS

Amerika BA’s biggest gay disco regularly draws thousands of boozed-up, party-hungry punters of increasingly mixed and flexible sexual orientations, including a good-times straight crowd. There are two dancefloors, with four bars and ultra-flirtatious bartenders. Add to that regular live shows, strippers, all-you-can-drink nights on Fridays and Saturdays for AR$100-$190 and a very packed darkroom. Gascón 1040, entre Rocamora y Estado de Israel, Almagro (4865 4416/ www.ameri-k.com.ar). Subte B, Medrano/bus 19, 36, 151, 160, 168. Open 1-6.30am Fri-Sun. Map F2. Contramano Remember the 1980s? Well, the crowd here – some of it original in more ways than one – is living proof that the gay pickup/hustler bar theme never really died. A cover of AR$60-$80 (depending on the night) gets you a drink and the chance to cruise and dance to pop, disco and electro. Rodríguez Peña 1082, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Recoleta (4811 0494/www.

contramano.com). Subte D, Callao/bus 17, 39, 140, 150. Open midnight-6am Fri, Sat; 10pm-6am Sun. Map D4.

Work and play

Glam Glam packs them in on Thursdays and Saturdays (free with a pass from Sitges, see p131) with expats, tourists and porteños of all ages rounding out the crowd. Pick your spot from the two bars, several lounge areas, main dancefloor or boogie area in the back (featuring 1980s pop and Latin beats) and let the fun begin. Hit the hot darkroom behind the back bar, just a short climb up a winding staircase – some might call it a stairway to heaven. Cabrera 3046, entre Laprida y Agüero, Barrio Norte (4963 2521). Bus 29, 92. Open 1-6.30am Thu, Sat. Map E3.

Caribbean This is a great gym with a range of free weights and machines. But the real draw is the guys. Packed from 7.30pm to 8.30pm on weekdays, this gym is just around the corner from the working boys on Marcelo T de Alvear and next door to Zoom (see right). Uriburu 1012, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Barrio Norte (4829 2164). Subte D, Pueyrredón/bus 29, 60, 111, 188, 194. Open 5.30am-9.30pm Mon-Thu; 5.30am-9pm Fri; 9am-2pm Sat. Admission AR$400 per day; AR$2500 one month membership. Credit V. Map E4.

The Sub Though the pretty boys flock to the likes of Rheo (see left) and Glam (see above), it doesn’t mean you won’t get a sugar rush of eye candy at these basement fiestas. This downtown disco enjoys a sizeable following of anti-fashion, shun-the-establishment gay boys who prefer their play nights to be unpretentious and set to an irresistible pop and Latin beat. Avenida Córdoba 543, y Florida, Microcentro (4313 5169/www.thesub. com.ar). Bus 7, 20, 26, 55. Open from 1am Sat. Map C5. CULTURAL CENTRE

Casa Brandon Where’s a girl to go when she wants to have fun? Try this four-storey house, named after Brandon Teena, the transman played by Hilary Swank in Boys Don’t Cry – it’s a cultural centre, gallery, resto-bar, lounge, cinema and performance space rolled into one. Come for information, for socialising at the bar, or just to take in the scenery. Luís María Drago 236, entre Lavalleja y Julián Álvarez, Villa Crespo (4858 0610/www.brandon.org.ar). Subte B, Malabia/bus 15, 124, 141. Open from 8pm Wed-Sun. Map F1.

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Megatlon Sede Barrio Norte Like the other Megatlons throughout BA (see p129), membership means access to a pool, machines, weights and all the typical fitness classes. Unlike other Megatlons, the large gay membership and status as a cruising spot means you can make some new acquaintances in the spinning class. Rodríguez Peña 1062, y Avenida Santa Fe, Barrio Norte (4816 8566/www. megatlon.com/sedes/barrionorte). Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 12, 140. Open 6am-11pm Mon-Fri; 8am-8pm Sat; 10am-6pm Sun. Admission AR$230 per day; AR$1010 one month membership. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4. SAUNAS, SPAS & CRUISING SPOTS

Buenos Aires a Full This place draws a young crowd and is busiest at the weekends thanks to its saunas, jacuzzi and film screenings. Tanning beds mean you can even work on your colour before mingling. Viamonte 1770, entre Avenida Callao y Rodríguez Peña, Tribunales (4371 7263/www.bsasafullspa.com.ar). Subte D, Callao/bus 12, 26, 37, 60. Open noon-midnight Mon-Thu; 24hrs Fri-Sun. Admission AR$120. No credit cards. Map D4.

Markus Day Spa Markus is Latin America’s first spa to offer top-line spa treatments exclusively to men. The modern gentleman about town looking to get pampered will surely be satisfed with services that range from stress fighting caviar facials to vinoterapia (wine therapy) sessions, along with procedures from the emerging field of aesthetic medicine like Botox and laser hair removal. Ground floor, Avenida Callao 1046, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Barrio Norte (4811 0058/www.markusformen.com). Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 12, 152. Open noon-9.30pm Mon-Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. Zoom Conveniently located next to one of the gayest gyms in town (Caribbean, see left), this sex club offers every nook and cranny you can dream of and has a good mix of fun toys. Uriburu 1018, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Barrio Norte (4827 4828/www. zoombuenosaires.com). Subte D, Pueyrredón/bus 37, 39. Open 24hrs daily. Admission AR$70. Map E4.

Resources Comunidad Homosexual Argentina (CHA) This is Argentina’s oldest and most politically influential queer organisation. Visit for advice and the exhaustive library of books and films. Tomás Liberti 1080, e Irala, La Boca (4361 6382/www.cha.org.ar). Bus 10. Open call to arrange a visit. Map A3. Fabulous Weddings Couples looking to tie the knot in the land of malbec and honey are in capable hands with American wedding planner Laetitia Orsetti, founder of Fabulous Weddings. Orsetti is a seasoned pro at navigating the logistics and legalities that go along with getting hitched. From commitment ceremonies in rustic vineyards to internationally recognised marriages at five-star hotels, Orsetti makes dream weddings a reality. Call to arrange an appointment (4065 8537/www.fab-weddings.com). La Fulana La Fulana is an indispensible community centre where lesbian and bisexual women get together to drink maté, chat, make friends and share tips. Apartment 6F, Avenida de Mayo 881, y Tacuarí, Microcentro (4342 1689/ www.lafulana.org.ar). Subte A, Piedras/ bus 2, 5, 7, 50. Open 8.30-10.30pm Fri. Map C4.

small revolutions of the spirit’. They say their songs are ‘from the notebook of our hearts’, and their intimate lyrics can attest to that. The layered vocals and upbeat rhythms are at times comparable with woozy surfer bands like Beach Fossils, but with more stripped back arrangements and vocals sung with an endearing innocence. Essential listening Dreamy and upbeat, Todos los Sábados del Mundo is a musical pick-me-up. See them at Salón Pueyrredón (see p135).


Onda Vaga

Soundtrack to the city Sorcha O’Higgins rounds up ten local music acts not to be missed JUANA MOLINA Juana Molina rose to fame in the late 1980s as one of Argentina’s favourite sketch comedy actresses. Local fans felt slighted when she ditched acting to embark on a music career, resulting in a huge backlash against her. After finding creative solace in Los Angeles, she came back onto the BA scene in the early 2000s, and has since garnered an international following. Her music, described as ‘folktronica’, is distinguished by a layered looping of vocals and beats. Essential listening ‘Eras’ reveals her knack for infectious beats while its surrealist music video shows her weird sensibilities. See her at Teatro Vorterix (see p135). LA BOMBA DEL TIEMPO La Bomba del Tiempo have been a Monday night staple in BA since 2006. Every week the 15 musicians put on a fiesta of drums and buena onda for a crowd of dreadlocked fans, tourists and essentially anyone looking to start the week off with a bang. Performances are improvised, making each show unique, so don’t miss out on the party. Essential listening They’re best heard live, but the album La Bomba del Tiempo captures their energy. See them at Ciudad Cultural Konex (see p137).

ONDA VAGA Onda Vaga’s music echoes their name, which translates to ‘lazy vibe’. Formed in the hippy haven of Cabo Polonio, Uruguay in 2007, the five-piece’s laid-back onda is reminiscent of Manu Chau, mixing styles like cumbia, reggae, folk and rock. Their songs reference simple, earthly delights like the sun, moon and stars, but they sound just as good in a stadium as they do around a bonfire on the beach. Essential listening ‘Mambeado’ is the perfect addition to your South American road trip playlist. See them at Niceto Club (see p88).

stars. Having recently played at hyped-up festivals like SXSW in Texas and Low in Spain, the five boys from La Plata are well on their way to international acclaim. Their blend of indie rock fuses the motorik beat of Krautrock with riffs reminiscent of The Strokes and distinctively rock vocals, perfect for letting loose. Essential listening ‘Amigo Piedra’ gets to the heart of El Mató’s moody, indie rock. See them at Teatro Vorterix (see p135).

MISS BOLIVIA Miss Bolivia is a straight-talking one-woman powerhouse who writes, sings and produces a fusion of cumbia, dancehall, reggae and hip hop. Her lyrical prowess turns out urgent, passionate and poetic raps about emancipation, which command you to listen up to the ‘direct message of the sounds of the hood’. Miss Bolivia takes no prisoners, and has more than a cult following both at home and abroad. Essential listening Her 2013 album Miau encapsulates her penchant for dancehall beats and feisty lyrics. See her at Groove (see p135).

LISANDRO ARISTIMUÑO Lisandro Aristimuño is a self-taught musician and singer-songwriter from Río Negro. His work ranges from modest ballads to soaring and complex orchestral arrangements featuring invited artists. The wild and expansive landscape of his native Patagonia serves as frequent inspiration for his music, and elements of folklore creep into his songs. His album Mundo Anfibio was nominated for Best Alternative Album at the 2012 Latin Grammys. Essential listening Mundo Anfibio shows his incredible range and talent for diverse arrangements. See him at Teatro Gran Rex (see p134).

EL MATÓ A UN POLICÍA MOTORIZADO El Mató a un Policía Motorizado are some of Argentina’s biggest rising

VALENTÍN Y LOS VOLCANES Hailing from La Plata, Valentín y los Volcanes are an indie five-piece that sing about ‘friendship, snuff and

LA FAMILIA DE UKELELES La Familia de Ukeleles are a Buenos Aires-based clan of nine musicians sporting ukuleles, a banjo, double bass and a plethora of other instruments. Performing quirky covers of songs from the ’50s and ’60s, La Familia give each song its own twist by skilfully combining their voices in mesmerising vocal harmonies. The band combines old school musical styles such as rockabilly, bluegrass and swing to create a one-of-a-kind listening experience. Essential listening Get a full taste of the band’s eccentric sensibilities and catchy melodies with their 2014 self-titled album La Familia de Ukeleles. See them at Café Vinilo (see p134). DANCING MOOD Dancing Mood is the brainchild of trumpeter and Buenos Aires native Hugo Lobo. Though the group is often classified under the umbrella of the Argentinian genre rock nacional, listeners will pick up on elements of ska, big band, jazz and reggae. As the name suggests, the music really does get you in the mood to dance, and the everexpanding line-up of members is guaranteed to bring the house down every single time. Essential listening Both the track ‘Police Woman’ and its Looney Tunes-inspired video show the group’s taste for nostalgia. See them at La Rural (Avenida Santa Fe 4201). ILLYA KURYAKI AND THE VALDERRAMAS Musical duo Dante Spinetta and Emmanuel Horvilleur formed Illya Kuryaki and The Valderramas in Buenos Aires in 1991. The two went their separate ways in 2001, only to reform officially in 2011. Their music is not easily categorised, spanning a range of genres from hip hop and rap to funk and salsa, but their songs are surprisingly catchy and often lyrically entertaining, referencing a wide range of musicians from Bootsy Collins to Jennifer Lopez. Essential listening Test your Spanish skills by figuring out the cheeky lyrics of ‘Ula Ula’. See them at Luna Park (see p134).

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While tango’s crooners will forever belt out mournful songs for love long lost, there are far more strings to BA’s musical bow than just the 2x4 tango beat. Cumbia’s distinctive rhythms blare from car radios, the drums at La Bomba de Tiempo (see p135) provide Monday night’s entertainment and even swing and rockabilly subcultures are thriving, if you know where to look. To dive straight in to the local music scene, bring your handkerchief to wave to the sound of folclore at a peña, or head nod to a new indie rock band at a seriously underground bar. And if you prefer something a little more sophisticated, aside from the fabulous Teatro Colón (see p137), there are dozens of other venues where you can hear classical and jazz music. Argentina’s musical giants aren’t so well-known outside of Latin America, but they still inspire adoration in their home country. Carlos Gardel is the king of tango, but there are also plenty of modern superstars that reign proudly over the category of rock nacional, or Argentinian rock. Big names that still get airplay include Patricio Rey y sus Redonditos de Ricota, heavy metal and blues singer Pappo, and one of the most influential figures of Argentinian rock, Luis Alberto Spinetta. If all you want to do is get down to a pumping, body-moving beat, there’s no need to worry – Buenos Aires has a killer dance music scene that goes far beyond reggaeton and cumbia. CONCERTS AND TICKET INFO There are concerts every day of every week, with larger ones publicised on billboards and smaller ones advertised in the local press and listed on websites like Vuenos Airez (www.vuenosairez. com), Time Out Buenos Aires’s Facebook page (www.facebook.com/ timeoutba) and the BA section of Songkick (www.songkick.com). You can buy tickets through Ticketek (5237 7200, www.ticketek.com.ar, eight locations). Alternatively, use Plateanet (5236 3000, www.plateanet.com) or TuEntrada (5254 9100, www.tuentrada. com) for theatre and music bookings. Most smaller venues, especially clubs, take cash only for shows. Take note: unless a concert is held in a licensed bar or club, alcohol is not served at concert venues or festivals.

Rock, indie and dance

Buenos Aires has well and truly established itself on the international concert circuit, with well-known acts like Pharrell Williams, Jack White and Tinariwen having regaled the capital recently. While most local hipsters still worship The Rolling Stones and The Beatles, home-grown rock nacional also enjoys massive popularity, with artists like Charly García and Kevin Johansen, and bands like Onda Vaga, Babasónicos, Divididos, Tan Biónica and El Mató a un Policía Motorizado


The essentials

Three members of La Familia de Ukeleles sing their hearts out

just some of the acts currently doing Ultra (San Martín 678, 4312 5605, the rounds in BA. www.ultrapop-ar.blogspot.com.ar) is Once confined to the city’s slums, gig central, and you can also catch cumbia now commands fans from bands at La Cigale (see p72). The across the social strata and, along with Library Lounge (see p74) at the very tango and traditional folk music, has fancy Faena Hotel Buenos Aires is a been given the electro treatment. The beautiful venue with pricey sauce. In record label ZZK Records (www. Palermo, atmospheric Café Vinilo zzkrecords.com) is taking digital (Gorriti 3780, 4866 6510, www. cumbia to the world stage, with acts cafevinilo.com.ar), Vuela el Pez like Chancha Via Circuito, Villa (Avenida Córdoba 4379, 4774 6834, Diamante and La Yegros. Digital www.facebook.com/vuelaelpez), folklore artist Tremor is also on the NoAvestruz (see p138) and La Oreja label’s roster, pairing synth loops with Negra (Uriarte 1271, 2053 3263, www. Andean flutes and bombo legüero laorejanegra.weebly.com) all offer (drum) samples. Other locals varied live music. Makena (Fitz Roy spearheading the digital folklore 1519, 4772 8281, www.facebook.com/ boom include female singermakenacantinaclub) serves up a mean songwriters Soema Montenegro and cocktail and a varied line-up of local Paloma del Cerro, as well as vibrant bands – Sunday night’s Afromama male-female duo Tonolec and Sonido party is particularly popular, Guay Ñene, an electro-folklore while indie-cool El band hailing from Mendoza. Quetzal (Guatemala Hip hop, dancehall, 4516, 3526 4805, www. reggae and cumbia are the genres traversed by elquetzal.com.ar) hosts Street music the feisty Miss Bolivia, live music most nights. Catch funky street who is always a hot The eclectic acts that musicians along calle ticket around town. play at Palermo Viejo’s Florida, at San Telmo’s cultural centre Club Sunday market and on SMALL VENUES Cultural Matienzo the Subte. (Pringles 1249, 6610 1520, Buenos Aires has tons of www.ccmatienzo.com.ar) excellent venues – and its Subte frequently defy genre. For music stations and parks are some of them. you can move to, Abasto’s Uniclub You’ll doubtless stumble across some (Guardia Vieja 3360, 4867 6764, www. música en vivo (live music) as you wander BA’s streets at night, especially uniclub.com.ar) hosts a steady stream of reggae, ska and Latin acts as well as in San Telmo. Listen out and look for a selection of just-emerging-from-theblackboards, flyers and queues of garage bands. Over in Almagro, swing youngsters outside unlikely looking bands, tango orchestras and sedate, doors. Two of the lesser-known jewels in San Telmo include Tabaco (Estados candlelit piano recitals are on the weekly menu at hidden rennovated Unidos 265, 4232 9794), a grungy little mansion Sr Duncan (see p80) and club populated by rocker types, and bands rock out in the basement of Bar Guebara (Humberto 1° 463, mobile 15 5771 5550), which is another student favourite Imaginario good bet for live music. In the centre, Cultural (Bulnes 899). A stone’s throw

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away, dingy joint Ladran Sancho (Guardia Vieja 3811, 4863 1095, www. facebook.com.ladransancho espaciodearte) has a packed line-up of mostly acoustic local acts. In Barracas, catch anything from rock and pop to reggae and Afrobeat at Plasma (Piedras 1856). MAJOR VENUES

When well-known international names hit the capital, their shows tend to sell out quickly. The biggest acts regale the masses at River Plate Stadium (Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 7597, 4789 1200), GEBA Jorge Newbery (Marcelino Freyre 3831, 4382 0031), Luna Park (Avenida Madero 420, 5279 5279, www.lunapark.com.ar) and Estadio Único (www.estadiolp.gba.gov.ar), which is outside the capital in the city of La Plata. Other important venues in BA include the elegant Teatro Gran Rex (Avenida Corrientes 857, 4322 8000, www.teatro-granrex.com.ar), which seats 3,500 people. Also in the centre, traditional theatre ND/Ateneo (Paraguay 918, 4328 2888, www. ndteatro.com.ar) is a key venue for theatre performances as well as for local and Latin American musicians. Down a cobbled street of San Telmo, the intimate Samsung Studio (5 de Julio 444, 5533 5533, www. samsungstudio.com.ar) features anything from jazz and pop to chanson française. Nearby La Trastienda (Balcarce 460, 4342 7650, www. latrastienda.com) attracts discerning fans with its cutting-edge local acts, established Latin American talent and international performers. Over in Abasto, Ciudad Cultural Konex (see p137) is an excellent venue for interesting and dynamic acts, like

Top four record stores Exiles Records This small store has a vintage, homely feel and stocks both new and previouslyowned records lovingly labelled with the staff’s short reviews. Honduras 5270 (4834 6191/www. exilesrecords.com). Rock n Freud As well as a wide variety of international CDs, Rock n Freud has an assortment of vinyl sure to please any collector. Local 2, Paseo del Sol, Arenales 3337 (4821 0574). Mercurio Disquería Mercurio Disquería stocks independent label Argentinian acts and has infrequent in-house live gigs. Superstar DJ and co-founder Villa Diamante can also occasionally be found manning the till. Local 32, Galería Patio del Liceo, Avenida Santa Fe 2729. Miles Discos Grab a set of headphones at this relaxed store’s listening post and experience an eclectic mix of sounds, from rare jazz and traditional tango, to gospel, world music and heavy metal. Honduras 4659 (4832 0466/www. milesdiscos.com.ar).

Folk and world Buenos Aires might be the capital of Argentina, but the country’s musical heart lies far from this fashionable centre. In fact, most Argentinians are more likely to listen to música folclórica than to tango. At live folklore shows, or peñas, you can tune in to the chacarera, zamba and chamamé – the country sounds of Argentina’s far-flung provinces. A great restaurant peña, Los Cardones

(Jorge Luis Borges 2180, 4777 1112, www.cardones.com.ar) is popular with students, as is La Peña del Colorado (Güemes 3657, 4822 1038, www.lapeniadelcolorado.com), which has good acts and criollo-style food. If you haven’t yet tried maté, the herbal infusion that’s an Argentinian passion and a daily ritual, this is a good place to put that right. Once the troubadours have finished with the show, guitars are handed out so you can make your own music, and there’s also dancing. For those with more stamina, peñas bailables are all-night wine-sloshing, foot-stomping shindigs providing a happy hoedown. Some of the best monthly parties (held on Saturday nights) are La Resentida (Bacacay 1600, www.laresentida.com.ar) in Caballito and De La Ribera (Zufriategui 1251, www.webfolklore. com.ar/laribera) in Olivos. The weekly Feria de Mataderos (see p110) is also a top spot for live folkloric music and dancing on Sunday afternoons. For a list of Buenos Aires’s peñas, see www.folkloreclub.com.ar. Reflecting Buenos Aires’s large Spanish community are the flamenco bars scattered around Avenida de Mayo. An inexpensive option, Bar Cantares (Rivadavia 1180, 4381 6965, www.cantarestablao.com.ar) features live flamenco on Friday and Saturday nights for AR$100. Opened by a Spanish immigrant, Avila (Avenida de Mayo 1384, 4383 6974) hosts flamenco shows on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 10.30pm, for AR$340, including tapas and drinks. The atmospheric bar has walls covered with old black-and-white pictures, but even better are the fiery Andalucian steps enacted on stage. To hear young musicians’ take on

folk music, head to Folk You Mondays (www.facebook.com/ folkyoumondays) open mic night at La dama de Bollini in Recoleta.

Classical and opera

Opera, classical music and ballet buffs should not miss a night at the magnificent Teatro Colón (see p137). Classical music can be found elsewhere in the city, including at the Teatro Coliseo (Marcelo T de Alvear 1125, 4816 3789), La Boca’s Usina del Arte (see p138), which has a 1,200-seat concert hall, the Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández Blanco (see p118), the Teatro San Martín (see p137) and Teatro Margarita Xirgú (Chacabuco 875, 4300 8817, www.salaxirgu. blogspot.com.ar). The Teatro Nacional Cervantes (see p137) has free contemporary orchestral recitals, while the Biblioteca Nacional (Agüero 2502, 4808 6000, www.bn.gov. ar) often puts on free classical and jazz concerts. Auditorio de Belgrano (Virrey Loreto 2348, 4783 1783) holds free classical concerts on Friday evenings. The Centro Cultural Recoleta (see p120) also hosts occasional classical concerts. Modest institutions like La Scala de San Telmo (Pasaje Giuffra 371, 4362 3847, www.lascala.com.ar) are awash with talented performers. Much of the city’s classical music scene is in the hands of professional and amateur groups, including the Mozarteum Argentino (Ground floor ‘A’, Rodríguez Peña 1882, 4811 3348) and Festivales Musicales (www.festivalesmusicales. org.ar). Opera and classical music fans ought to visit Teatro Avenida (Avenida de Mayo 1222, 4381 0662).


Monday’s improvisational percussion concerts held under the banner La Bomba de Tiempo. Niceto Club (see p88) and Groove (Avenida Santa Fe 4389, www.palermogroove.com) are excellent spots in trendy Palermo to catch local and international indie bands, while Crobar (see p87) occasionally hosts fun dance crossover acts. Salón Pueyrredón (Avenida Santa Fe 4560, www.salonpueyrredon. com.ar) is the closest thing BA has to a classic punk club. It’s also the city’s major testing ground for local rock and pop outfits, so most nights Levi’s and designer T-shirts outnumber mohicans and studded dog-collars. In Colegiales, Teatro Vorterix (Federico Lacroze 3455, www. elteatroonline.com.ar) is a spectacular old theatre showcasing both new and established rockers, while in Flores, El Teatro Flores (Avenida Rivadavia 7806, www.elteatroonline.com.ar) hosts local and international acts.

programme of live jazz. In the centre, the newest addition to the scene, sophisticated basement venue Bebop Club (Moreno 364, 4331 3409, www. bebopclub.com.ar), features quality jazz, blues, funk, soul and pop acts. The refined and trendy Boris jazz club (Gorriti 5568, 4777 0012, www. borisclub.com.ar) also regularly hosts an exciting line-up of musicians, while the Teatro IFT (Boulogne Sur Mer 549, 4961 9562, www.teatroift.org.ar) boasts regular live jazz acts in addition to its theatre performances. San Telmo’s Café Rivas (see p30) and Boedo’s bohemian Pan y Arte (see p34) are intimate spots to enjoy weekly jazz recitals over a glass of red wine. In Barrio Norte, well-stocked bookshop Clásica y Moderna (Avenida Callao 892, 4812 8707, www. clasicaymoderna.com) hosts regular jazz and blues shows in an elegant, atmospheric space. Swing jazz has a small but devoted following; look out for swing bands Lobo Con Swing and Orquesta Inestable and try the website www. swingcity.com.ar for event listings and classes. The city government also organises Buenos Aires Jazz (www. buenosairesjazz.gob.ar), which takes place in late November.

Jazz and blues

Street musicians do their thing in San Telmo


A growing jazz and blues scene is emerging in Buenos Aires, and there are free and inexpensive recitals to be found at venues throughout the city, in addition to well-known acts. Notorious (Avenida Callao 966, 4813 6888, www.notorious.com.ar) hosts daily shows by respected local jazz musicians, as well as occasional new folk and world music acts. Inspired by New York jazz clubs, Thelonius Club (Salguero 1884, 4829 1562, www.thelonious.com.ar) combines the comforts of a very well-stocked bar with an impressive

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Performing Arts

The curtain rises for the Teatro Colón’s next act

Phantoms of the opera house Rosie Hilder delves into the history of the Teatro Colón on the fifth anniversary of its reopening


ith its glorious acoustics, resplendent furnishings and illustrious list of past performers – Luciano Pavarotti, Anna Pavlova and Richard Strauss to name just three – it’s hard to imagine that the Teatro Colón (see p137) has ever been anything other than magnificent. But like many things in Argentina, a murky past lies just beneath the surface; the theatre’s history is steeped in financial and legal problems, strikes and even murder. The Teatro Colón began life in 1857, in the Plaza de Mayo (see p114), in a spot now occupied by the Banco de la Nación Argentina. This theatre closed in 1888, when plans were made to build a bigger and better Teatro Colón in the city centre, one that would make Europeans green with envy. Italian architect Francesco Tamburini, who had previously helped redesign the Casa Rosada (see p114), laid the first stone of the new building in 1890. He worked on the project for just one year before dying unexpectedly of lung cancer. His death was the first of a series of unfortunate events to tarnish the Colón’s history. After Tamburini’s death, his disciple Vittorio Meano took over. The

grand opening was scheduled for 1892, but in 1894 the project manager was declared bankrupt and the state was forced to assume financial control in order for construction to continue. Though Meano won the bid to construct the Palacio del Congreso (see p114) and Uruguayan parliament building, his luck didn’t last. On June 1 1904, he arrived home to find his wife in bed with the butler he had recently fired, Juan Passera, who then shot and killed him. Passera was sentenced to 17 years in jail for what he claimed was an act of self-defence, while Meano’s wife, Luisa, was sent back to Italy as punishment for her involvement. Belgian architect Jules Dormal took over the project, and was the only one of the Colón’s early architects not to meet a sticky end. On May 25 1908, after nearly 20 years of construction, the Colón opened with a performance of Giuseppe Verdi’s opera Aida. The theatre goers were extremely impressed by the building, but not the opera. After a gruelling boat journey from Italy, the performers had rehearsed for just three days. Their exhaustion was so evident that many spectators abandoned the

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auditorium at the interval to explore the (still unfinished) building. Unlike Europe’s opera houses, the Colón has always been accessible to all strata of society thanks to its state-subsidised tickets. In the early days, poor immigrants bought cheap standing tickets in the theatre’s top tier, known as El Paraíso (paradise) for its superior acoustics and proximity to the heavens. Packed in like hens, paradise’s punters were such a rowdy bunch that the spot soon acquired a new nickname, El Gallinero (the henhouse). To decide for yourself which nickname is more fitting, buy a ticket today for just AR$20. When Europe’s opera houses closed due to World War II, the Colón was able to harvest the talents of European stars who flocked to Argentina. The new additions to the theatre’s own ballet, choir and orchestra groups led the Colón to experience its most glorious period. Between 1959 and 1968, it put on 111 operas.

In 1968, the Colón received a partial makeover, and in the years that followed survived a military coup and the dark days of the dirty war (1976-83). But the theatre’s troubles came to a head in 1988. The stage was in desperate need of repair, and the country was experiencing such hyperinflation (in 1989 it hit an annual 3079%) that no one could afford the tickets. The Teatro Colón, like Argentina, survived. The new millennium brought with it El Plan Maestro (The Master Plan) to restore the Colón to its former glory. In 2006, the theatre closed for renovations and a year later, Mauricio Macri, the newly elected mayor of Buenos Aires, proposed to make its reopening a priority. The doors were due to open in 2008, to mark the Colón’s 100th birthday, but instead the grand reopening ceremony coincided with Argentina’s 2010 bicentenary celebrations. After its US$100 million makeover, the theatre looked more resplendent than ever. To the country’s collective relief, the acoustics were also deemed intact. Despite the successful reopening, it’s here that the facts become increasingly slippery. As part of the renovations, all the theatre’s furniture was removed from the building and put into storage. Many say it was inadequately stored in humid conditions and some even claim it was dumped outside of the building. Velvet chairs and golden radiators that bore a striking resemblance to the Colón’s fittings later turned up on Mercardo Libre (the Argentinian version of eBay), but it has never been affirmed whether the furniture was really from the theatre. The workers took the director, Macri and other officials to court for abusing the Colón’s fittings and won their case. The director denied the charges. In 2011, a cartonero sorting through the rubbish bins outside the theatre came across a bag containing 300 scores, including Verdi’s Aida. This time, there was no doubt that the bag’s contents belonged to the Colón, but whether or not the scores were originals remains disputed. The same year, as part of one of several strikes relating to working conditions and pay, the entire philharmonic orchestra played a concert on the lawn outside the theatre. Today, the orchestra performs concerts in its rightful place and the Colón is celebrating five years since its reopening with a special programme, which includes performances from Russian pianist Evgeny Kissin and Argentinian bandeonista Dino Saluzzi. For now at least, the whiff of scandal seems to have died down. Like Argentina itself, the Teatro Colón must, and will, go on.

Like Argentina itself, the Teatro Colón must, and will, go on

The basics


TICKETS AND INFORMATION You can buy tickets at each venue’s boletería (box office), often with cash only, or through Ticketek (5237 7200, www.ticketek.com.ar) or TuEntrada (www.tuentrada.com) for major productions or venues. Credit cards are accepted and booking fees apply. Discounted tickets for plays, musicals, and films are available from Cartelera Baires (Unit 24, Avenida Corrientes 1382, www.cartelerabaires. com), Cartelera Lavalle (Lavalle 742, 4322 1559, www.carteleralavalle. com.ar) and Alternativa Teatral (www.alternativateatral.com).

!Ciudad Cultural Konex Based in a former factory, this complex provides a gritty industrial backdrop to an array of events, pulling in a young, bohemian crowd. It’s perhaps best known for Monday’s La Bomba de Tiempo, an improvisational percussion-based musical show whose beats keep the crowd moving from 7pm until 10pm; entry is AR$80. Sarmiento 3131, entre Jean Jaurès y Anchorena, Abasto (4864 3200/www. ciudadculturalkonex.org). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 5, 7, 8, 24, 26, 168, 180, 188, 194. Box office 4-8pm Mon-Fri; 6-10pm What’s on Although tango tends to Thu-Sun. Shows For listings of underdominate dance in Wed-Mon. Tickets ground productions, Buenos Aires, a AR$50-$160. Credit check out Alternativa deep-rooted classical Teatral (www.alternati- AmEx, MC, V. Map E2. tradition exists as well. vateatral.com). The Ballet Teatro Multiteatro Colón, established in 1925, is With its three small, versatile the oldest company in South auditoriums, Multiteatro has a America. Another famous local group reputation for putting on provocative to look out for is Maximiliano Guerra’s one-person shows as well as local Ballet del Mercosur. For those who adaptations of contemporary classics. have seen one Swan Lake too many, Avenida Corrientes 1283, y there’s the Ballet Contemporáneo at Talcahuano, Tribunales (information the Teatro San Martín, and Compañía 4382 9140/tickets 5236 3000/www. de Danza Contemporánea at the multiteatro.com.ar). Subte B, Uruguay/ Centro Nacional de la Música y la bus 26, 60, 102. Box office Danza (México 564, 4300 7384), a splendid old building that was once the 10am-8pm daily. Shows Wed-Sun. Tickets AR$250. Credit AmEx, MC, national library. For modern dance, a good option is El Portón de Sánchez V. Map D4. (Sánchez de Bustamante 1034, 4863 !Teatro Colón 2848). Traditional dances such as the chacarera and the foot-stomping zamba This is one of Buenos Aires’s grandest (not to be confused with the samba) can landmarks, complete with a lavish interior and powerful acoustics. As be seen and practised at folk music venues known as peñas (see p135). well as regular performances by the

Buenos Aires is one of the few cities in the world where even low-budget productions are packed out every night of the week. While a trip to the spectacular Teatro Colón (see right) is pretty much obligatory, it’s also well worth checking out the underground theatre scene, most of which happens in achingly cool little theatres in or around Abasto and Almagro. Physical theatre, modern dance and circus acts are also popular. At the forefront of the scene are Fuerzabruta. The group tour internationally, but catch them at home in the Centro Cultural Recoleta (see p120) if you can. Other good spots for this type of theatre are El Galpón de Guevara (see p128) or the Ciudad Cultural Konex (see right), and don’t miss BA’s circus festival Festival de Polo Circo (see p6) in May. More lowbrow entertainment can be found on glitzy Avenida Corrientes (BA’s version of Broadway), home to cabaret revue shows known as revistas porteñas. Expect slapstick comedians and scantily-clad showgirls.

Theatre in BA ranges from high-profile comedy acts and musical numbers to under-the-radar productions, often exploring political themes. But with more than 160 theatres in the capital alone, off-Corrientes and off-offCorrientes productions proliferate wildly, with many works of independent theatre to be found. Government-funded venues like the Teatro San Martín (see right), cultural centres (see p120) and Ciudad Cultural Konex all host a variety of multimedia productions. For acting workshops, try the British Arts Centre (see p120).


BA Philharmonic Orchestra, it stages superb ballets (including classics like Cinderella and Swan Lake) as well as operas (such as the Verdi tribute Masked Ball). Libertad 621, y Tucumán, Tribunales (4378 7100/guided tours 4378 7127/ www.teatrocolon.org.ar). Subte D, Tribunales/bus 5, 10, 39, 129, 140. Box office 10am-8pm Mon-Sat; 10am-5pm Sun. Guided tours 9am-5pm daily. Tickets AR$20-$2000; guided tours AR$180. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5.


Teatro Liceo This 600-seat theatre is the oldest and one of the most spectacular venues in the city and is still going strong. Avenida Rivadavia 1499, entre Paraná y Uruguay, Congreso (4381 5745/ www.multiteatro.com.ar). Subte A, Sáenz Peña/bus 39, 168. Box office 10am-8pm Mon, Tue; 10am-start of show Wed-Sun. Tickets AR$230-$250. Credit AmEx, V. Map C4.


!Teatro Nacional Cervantes The packed programme here includes Latin American and Spanish theatre and dance, as well as free film screenings of mainly Argentinian classics on Wednesdays and Thursdays at 5pm. The building is a work of art in its own right. Libertad 815, y Avenida Córdoba, Tribunales (4816 4224/www. teatrocervantes.gov.ar). Subte D, Tribunales/bus 29, 39, 109. Box office 10am-9pm Wed-Sun. Shows Thu-Sun. Tickets from AR$60. No credit cards. Map D5.

Teatro del Pueblo Dedicated to bringing national theatre to the public, the focus here is on works by Argentinian playwrights. Avenida Roque Sáenz Peña 943, entre Carlos Pellegrini y Suipacha, Microcentro (4326 3606/www. teatrodelpueblo.org.ar). Subte D, 9 de Julio/bus 10, 17, 140. Box office 5-8pm Wed-Sun. Shows varies. Tickets AR$80-$130. No credit cards. Map C5.


Members of the Ballet Contemporáneo tie themselves in knots at Teatro San Martín

Teatro San Martín The programme ranges from cast-iron classics to avant-garde experiments, and the works are staged in a building that’s a hymn to 1970s design. This central theatre also has a cinema showing international arthouse films. Avenida Corrientes 1530, entre Paraná y Montevideo, Tribunales (0800 333 5254/complejoteatral.gob.ar). Subte B, Uruguay/bus 24, 26, 37, 60, 99, 102.

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Performing Arts

Teatro Opera Allianz This classic auditorium on bustling Avenida Corrientes is the place to find big-budget musicals. Avenida Corrientes 860, entre Suipacha y Esmeralda, Microcentro (4326 1335/www.operaallianz.com). Subte B, Carlos Pellegrini or C, Diagonal Norte or D, 9 de Julio/bus 10, 17, 24, 29. Box office 10am-8pm daily. Tickets from AR$180. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C5.


Box office 10am-10pm daily. Shows Wed-Sun. Tickets AR$120-$150. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. !Usina del Arte This 15,000 sq m cultural centre inside a former power station has a 1,200-seat concert hall and hosts free art exhibitions, as well as many music and dance performances. At weekends (11am and 5pm) there are free tours of this magnificent building. Avenida Don Pedro de Mendoza y Caffarena, La Boca (www.usinadelarte. org). Bus 4, 20, 25, 29, 33, 53, 129, 130, 152, 159, 168, 195. Box office 1hr before shows. Shows varies. Tickets free. SMALLER SPACES

Actors Studio Alongside a varied programme featuring classic plays and a selection of outrageous original works, this long-running studio in Almagro also runs excellent acting classes. Avenida Díaz Vélez 3842, entre Medrano y Jerónimo Salguero, Almagro (4983 9883/www.actorsstudio.org). Subte A, Castro Barros/bus 5, 8, 19, 36, 128. Box office 1hr before shows Fri-Sun. Shows Sat, Sun. Tickets AR$100. No credit cards. Map E2.

Performing Arts

Belisario Club de Cultura Set in the heart of theatreland, this small venue is home to great experimental theatre, as well as regular circus-influenced performances. Avenida Corrientes 1624, entre Rodríguez Peña y Montevideo, Tribunales (4373 3465/www. marcelosavignone.com). Subte B, Callao/bus 24, 26, 109. Box office from 7pm Fri, Sat; from 6.30pm Sun. Shows 9pm, 11pm Fri, Sat; 8pm Sun. Tickets AR$100-$120. No credit cards. Map D4. El Camarín de las Musas This multipurpose venue gets rave reviews for its highbrow productions. The venue offers a constant selection of interesting and innovative theatre performances in intimate spaces. You can also enjoy a meal or drink in the lovely café before the show. Mario Bravo 960, entre Tucumán y Avenida Córdoba, Abasto (4862 0655/ www.elcamarindelasmusas.com.ar). Subte B, Medrano/bus 26, 92, 106, 127, 128, 140, 160, 168. Box office 1hr before shows. Shows varies. Tickets AR$120. No credit cards. Map F3. La Carpintería A small but cosy theatre in Abasto, La Carpintería is a great option for innovative, high quality performances off the main theatre strip. Ever since opening its doors in 2010, this theatre has been attracting an impressive line-up, including big names such as the actor-director marvel, Marcelo Savignone. Arrive early to get tickets and take advantage of the warmly lit, exposed brick café for a glass of wine and a picada.

Recommended F.L.O.W Atlas Wachas

F.L.O.W Atlas Wachas aren’t your average dance troupe. After carving out a name for themselves on the club circuit, Lauren Pringle, Estefi Spark and Malién Cisneros are now teaching their talents to the masses. Head to their Almagro studio for a heady mix of twerking, dancehall and hip hop that’s sure to get your booty shaking. Better yet, the classes are a bargain with four classes costing AR$250 or eight classes AR$350, meaning you’ll have money left over to spend at the club as you show off your new moves. Lambaré 990, y Avenida Corrientes (atlaswachasfamily@gmail.com/www.facebook.com/atlaswachasfamily). Subte B, Ángel Gallardo/bus 24, 65, 92, 105, 141, 168. Classes 9-10.30pm Mon; 11.30am-1pm Tue, Thu; 8-9.30pm Fri. No credit cards. Map F1.

Jean Jaurès 852, entre San Luis y Tucumán, Abasto (4961 5092/ www.lacarpinteriateatro.wordpress. com). Subte B, Pueyrredon or H, Corrientes/bus 24, 26, 29, 41. Box office 1hr before shows. Shows Thu-Sun. Tickets AR$80-$120. No credit cards. Map E3. El Galpón de Guevara El Galpón de Guevara opened in January 2014, and was especially designed to host independent physical theatre, aerial acrobatic and dance shows. Stop at the large bright bar for a round of ping-pong or table football prior to the show, before stepping through the curtain into the atmospheric stage area. To get in on the action yourself, try one of the theatre’s workshops, which are taught by renowned actors and directors. Guevara 326, y Santos Dumont, Chacarita (4554 9877/www. galpondeguevara.com). Subte B, Dorrego/bus 71, 90, 127, 140. Box office varies. Shows varies. Tickets AR$120. No credit cards. Map H1. NoAvestruz This intimate and cosy space offers a range of dance and theatre performances, shows for kids, films and live music. There’s also a bar and an art gallery and occasional courses on cinema and other artistic pursuits.

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Humboldt 1857, y Costa Rica, Palermo (4777 6956/www.noavestruz.com.ar). Bus 34, 39, 57, 93, 108. Box office 5-9pm Wed-Sat; 1hr before show Sun. Shows Wed-Sun. Tickets AR$100$120. No credit cards. Map H3. El Portón de Sánchez A dance studio by day, this venue offers a contemporary programme featuring avant-garde troupes, plus plays that fall at the pricier, polished end of the indie spectrum. Sánchez de Bustamante 1034, y Avenida Córdoba, Abasto (4863 2848/ elportondesanchez.com.ar). Bus 26, 29, 92, 99, 106, 109. Box office 9am-9pm Mon-Fri; 1hr before show Sat, Sun. Shows Fri-Sun. Tickets AR$120. No credit cards. Map E3. Teatro Ciego The ‘blind theatre’ is more of a sensual experience than a traditional one. Let the company blindfold you, offer you dinner and tempt you to theatre and tango classes in pitch darkness. Zelaya 3006, y Jean Jaurès, Abasto (6379 8596/www.teatrociego.org). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 124. Box office from 5pm daily. Shows Tue-Sun. Tickets from AR$120. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E3. Teatro el Cubo Set in the back streets of Abasto, Teatro el Cubo is one of the larger independent

venues in the city. Located on a colourful street in the heart of the underground theatre scene, this theatre offers an array of exciting spectacles to feast your eyes upon. Catch anything from sombre, serious plays to cutting-edge modern dance, or outlandish, show-stopping musicals. Zelaya 3053, y Anchorena, Abasto (4963 2568/www.cuboabasto.com.ar). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 29, 64, 140, 168, 188, 194. Box Office from 5pm Thu-Mon. Shows Thu-Mon. Tickets AR$120-$160. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E3. !Timbre 4 This cutting edge theatre presents works by cult director Claudio Tolcachir, and specialises in experimental plays (many of a provocative socio-political nature). Housed in a lovely casa in arty Boedo, Timbre 4 also has occasional productions with English subtitles, great for those whose Spanish is not quite there yet, and a bar offering drinks and snacks. Avenida Boedo 640, entre México y Avenida Independencia, and México 3554, entre Avenida Boedo y Maza, Boedo (4932 4395/www.timbre4.com). Subte E, Boedo/bus 2, 56, 115, 126, 128, 160, 165, 180. Box office from 7pm Thu-Sun. Shows 9pm, 11.30pm Thu-Mon. Tickets AR$100-$140. No credit cards. Map D1.


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The scene

The mysterious, highly sensual dance that is the tango attracts many a foreigner to Argentina, and is responsible for plenty of them sticking around too. If you’d like to dabble in the dance, but aren’t sure where to start, our handy flow chart (see p139) should help you take a step in the right direction. Those who want to tango every night of the week should check our weekly milonga guide (see p142) for the trendiest milongas in town. For tango all day and night long, don’t miss August’s Tango Festival and World Championships (see p6). Tango guides such as María Lelia Ivancovich (www.marialeliadebsas. com.ar) can help newcomers find their feet in the local scene through personalised tours that include a guided trip to a milonga and a short history lesson. For a private class, plus a visit to a milonga where professional dancers will explain what’s going on before spinning you across the dancefloor, try Tango Taxi Dancers (www.tangotaxidancers.com). To sleep, eat and breathe the dance, opt for a stay at a tango hotel – check out Lina’s Tango Guesthouse (Estados Unidos 780, San Telmo, 4361 6817, www.linatango.com), Caserón Porteño (Ciudad de la Paz 344, Colegiales, 4554 6336, www. caseronporteno.com) or Mansión Dandi Royal (Piedras 922, San Telmo, 4361 3537, www.mansiondandiroyal. com), all of which can arrange lessons and visits to milongas.


Classes and information

Milongas are the perfect way to get to the heart of tango culture. Everyone is welcome but a certain etiquette must be observed: milongas are not the place to drink too much and try out a few rusty moves. To fit in, try taking the class beforehand; during the milonga don’t look anyone in the eye unless you are ready to dance with them. Dancefloors are usually packed, so the embrace is very close and fancy footwork and wide sweeps are not particularly welcome. Most milongas also include live music or a dance performances. Schedules for milongas often change, so check with the venue, download the handy English language app Hoy Milonga – which has up-to-date information and a map showing milongas near you – or pick up a copy of the free Tango Map Guide from any of the venues listed below. The magazine Punto Tango (www. puntotango.com.ar) also has listings and news of tango events. TRADITIONAL MILONGAS

At these milongas attire is formal and tango etiquette is strictly adhered to. It’s often necessary to reserve a seat and men and women sit on opposite sides of the room. Men usually use the cabeceo, locking eyes with a woman, to request the next dance. El Beso This is a bijou setting for night-time dances and classes with very high standards (not recommended for wobbly, shy beginners), most of them taught by La Academia Tango

No tango orchestra is complete without a bandoneón

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Milonguero (check www.laacademia tango.com for details). Saturday night milonga Las Morochas attracts an older crowd, while on Fridays the venue hosts the modern and gayfriendly milonga La Marshall. 1st floor, Riobamba 416, entre Avenida Corrientes y Lavalle, Once (4953 2794). Subte B, Callao/bus 7, 12, 24, 37, 150, 168, 180. Open Classes varies. Milonga 8pm-2am Tue; 11pm-4.30am Thu-Fri; 5-11.30pm Sat; 10.30pm-4am Sun. Admission AR$50. No credit cards. Map D4. Centro Región Leonesa Excellent milongas are held here in a superb hall boasting one of the best pistas (dancefloors) in the city. Reservations are ideal for the popular Yira Yira event on Fridays. Humberto 1º 1462, entre Sáenz Peña y San José, Constitución (4304 5595). Subte E, San José/bus 39, 126, 195. Open Classes 9-10.30pm Thu, Fri; 3-4.30pm Sat. Milonga 6pm-1am Wed; 9.30pm-4am Thu, Fri; 4.30-11pm Sat. Admission AR$70. No credit cards. Map B3. Club Gricel You can’t beat the atmosphere of this place for some serious tango fun. A regular clientele takes full advantage of the springy dancefloor and attractive lighting. Saturday nights cost AR$40, and if you stick around until 1am, you’ll see the excellent show. La Rioja 1180, entre Humberto 1º y Avenida San Juan, San Cristóbal (4957 7157/www.clubgriceltango.com. ar). Subte E, Urquiza/bus 20, 61, 118, 126. Open Classes 6.30-8pm Mon; 7-10pm Tue; 6.30-10pm Wed; 6-8pm Thu; 6-10pm Fri; 3.30-10.30pm Sat. Milonga 8pm-3am Mon, Thu; 10pm-3am Wed; 10pm-4am Fri;

10.30pm-4am Sat; 6pm-2am Sun. Admission AR$50. No credit cards. Map C1. Confitería Ideal This busy spot attracts coffee drinkers during the day, but it also has a full schedule of daily tango classes (see website for details) and comes alive at night as a mainly post-office crowd swings by to dance to a live orchestra in the large space. 1st floor, Suipacha 384, y Avenida Corrientes, Microcentro (4328 7750/ www.confiteriaideal.com). Subte C, Diagonal Norte/bus 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 24, 29, 39, 60, 67, 129, 140. Open Classes varies, check website. Milonga 3.30-8.30pm daily. Admission AR$50. No credit cards. Map C5. FREE La Glorieta Held year-round under the bandstand in a Belgrano park, this thoroughly romantic open-air milonga attracts dancers of all standards and ages as well as enchanted observers and dog-walkers. Sunday evenings are particularly popular when the crowd gets dolled up in its finest attire. Barrancas de Belgrano, 11 de Septiembre, entre Sucre y Echeverría, Belgrano (4674 1026). Bus 15, 29, 55, 60, 64. Open Classes 5-7pm Sat, Sun. Milonga after classes. Admission Classes AR$60. Milonga donation. Salón Canning This large hall hosts a variety of different milongas, which attract a range of people, depending on the night. Particularly popular are Monday, Tuesday and Friday nights’ Parakultural events. Scalabrini Ortiz 1331, entre Gorriti y Cabrera, Palermo (4832 6753/www. parakultural.com.ar). Bus 15, 39, 55,


For the blossoming tanguero, there are numerous group lessons across the city, and most teachers speak some English. Milongas are often held after the class, but also look out for prácticas where you’re free to try out your newly acquired moves without the pressure of following the rules of the milonga. All the milongas listed here have resident teachers and usually offer classes while hundreds of couples offer private – and considerably more expensive – classes for all levels. For complete beginners, classes at La Viruta (see p141) and La Catedral (see p141) are fun and unintimidating ways to learn the basic steps. The excellent Escuela Argentina de Tango (Talcahuano 1052, 4312 4990, www.eatango.org) has locations in Microcentro’s Galerías Pacífico shopping centre and San Telmo, and offers classes with the city’s top teachers all day, every day. For a more contemporary style, tango school DNI (see p141) has young, dynamic teachers, as does El Esquinazo (Gurruchaga 1218, Palermo, 3530 7725). Almagro bar Sr Duncan (see p80) offers free beginners’ classes at 9pm on Tuesday evenings. These are followed by an atmospheric milonga accompanied by a live tango singer and musicians.

Where to dance tango


110, 140, 160, 168. Open Classes 7-9pm, 9-11pm Mon, Tue, Fri; 2.30-4pm Wed; 8.30-10pm Thu; 8-9.30pm, 9.30-11pm Sat; 4-11pm Sun. Milonga after classes. Admission AR$60-$80. No credit cards. Map G2. MODERN MILONGAS

These milongas generally attract a younger crowd, have a more sociable atmosphere and are a good place to try out more contemporary moves. The dress code is not rigid and you’ll even see women dancing in flat shoes. In addition to the places listed here and in our weekly tango agenda (see p142), popular modern milongas for more serious dancers include the Milonga de la Misteriosa (Humberto 1º 2758, www.misteriosabuenosaires.net, 10.30pm-3am Wed), which has a wonderful live tango orchestra. The popular Gay-friendly milonga La Marshall (Riobamba 416, 4300 3487, www.lamarshallmilonga.com.ar), held at El Beso (see p140), is very welcoming and has no strict rules about who dances with whom. Buenos Ayres Club The great thing about Monday’s Bendita (blessed) and Wednesday and Sunday’s Maldita (damned) milongas is the fantastic live music from a young outfit called Orquesta Típica El Afronte. The musicians, including a row of bandoneonistas stretching and squeezing with passion, a wild pianist and a by-turns heartbroken and enraged vocalist, make this an unforgettable experience. On Tuesday nights, gender rules are turned on their head at gay milonga Tango Queer. Perú 571, entre Venezuela y México, San Telmo (4331 1518/www. buenosayresclub.com). Bus 10, 22, 24, 26, 28, 29, 86. Open Classes 7-10.30pm Mon, Wed, Sun. Milonga after classes. Admission AR$80. No credit cards. Map B4.

Catch smouldering looks and sexy moves at San Telmo’s street fair (see p110)

Avenida Independencia 572, entre Bolívar y Perú, San Telmo (4931 7977). Subte C, Independencia/bus 10, 17, 22, 29, 93, 103, 106, 130, 143. Open Classes 9.30pm Mon, Tue, Fri-Sun. Milonga 11pm-3am Mon, Tue, Fri-Sun. Admission Classes AR$60. Milonga AR$50. No credit cards. Map B4.


Villa Malcolm Start with a class to prepare yourself for dancing into the early hours with the international crowd at this atmospheric old hall. It packs out for Sunday night’s Viva la Pepa, Monday night’s El Motivo, Fruto Dulce on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and Friday night’s Zum, all of which are modern milongas. Avenida Córdoba 5064, entre Thames y Serrano, Villa Crespo (4772 9796). Bus 34, 39, 55. Open Classes 7-10pm daily. Milonga after classes. Admission AR$60. No credit cards. Map G2. !La Viruta These popular milonga nights take place in a homely, basement-level community centre. Dancers of all ages and abilities come together for tango, and the milonga gets going around

1am after the crowd has warmed up on the dancefloor with a sprinkling of salsa and rock ’n’ roll jiving. A full schedule of back-to-back classes ensures that this place is always busy. Go on a Saturday to catch the show at 2am that’s included in the ticket price. Armenia 1366, entre Cabrera y Niceto Vega, Palermo (4774 6357/ www.lavirutatango.com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 168. Open Classes varies, check website. Milonga midnight-4am Wed, Thu, Sun; midnight-6am Fri, Sat. Admission AR$60-$70. No credit cards. Map G2.

Where to hear tango

There are plenty of places to enjoy tango in its aural form. You can get a free taste of tango music from the bandoneón-wielding buskers on the streets of San Telmo, or at a number of neighbourhood bars where tango is returning to its gritty roots, most notably at the historic Lo de Roberto (see p80), where fervent crooners of all ages perform to a young, bohemian crowd. ND/Ateneo (see p134) is a serious venue for tango music, as is the Centro Cultural Torquato Tasso (Defensa 1575, San Telmo, 4307 6506, www.torquatotasso.com.ar). Passionate and skilful tango musicians can work up as much sweat as their dancing counterparts: look out for bandoneónplaying Piazzolla disciple Rodolfo Mederos; violinist Pablo Agri; and virtuoso pianists Pablo Ziegler and Sonia Possetti; as well as the fun

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DNI An excellent spot for English speakers, DNI has a range of group and private !La Catedral classes for all levels. After your first The atmosphere at this bohemian free class, you can try out your new venue in Almagro is somewhere moves at the Saturday afternoon between post-punk/neo-goth práctica (4-8pm), which has and old-style circus/music live music and a hall. There are good friendly atmosphere. beginners’ classes on Tango vocabulary This beautiful old Tuesdays and folkloric The tango embrace is house also holds a classes on Sundays. called an abrazo, the unisex tango clothes Even if you’re not a básico is the eight-step on and shoe shop, a health dancer, it’s worth going which all other steps are food restaurant and a to this cavernous space based and ¡pará! means bar. If tango ignites for a pitcher of sangria, ‘stop!’. your passion for all a veggie snack or a fernet things dance, you could try and Coke. the modern dance and folklore Sarmiento 4006, y Medrano, classes, or else sign up for yoga to Almagro (mobile 15 5325 1630/www. lacatedralclub.com). Subte B, Medrano/ stretch out those tired limbs. Bulnes 1011, y Lavalle, Almagro (4866 bus 24, 124. Open Classes varies, 6553/www.dni-tango.com). Subte B, check website. Milonga after classes. Medrano/bus 26, 92, 106, 109, 128. Admission AR$60. No credit Open Classes varies, check website. cards. Map E2. Admission AR$50-$65. No credit cards. Map F2. Club La Independencia This traditional tango venue in the Oliverio Girondo Espacio low-key neighbourhood of Boedo is also home to Thursday night’s Milonga Cultural This cool tango hall in Villa Crespo has en Orsay, which attracts a young various milongas and musical events; crowd who come to drink, dance and particularly popular is Friday night’s listen to the live orchestra.

La María. Warm up at the class and stick around for the milonga and live music by dropping a few pesos in the gorra (hat). The Oliverio Girondo really has got it all: buena onda, bargain prices and tasty home-made bar snacks to nibble on while practising your moves. Just watch out for the tiled dancefloor – it’s a bit slippery. Vera 574, y Malabia, Villa Crespo (mobile 15 6202 9812/www.facebook. com/oliveriogirondoespaciodearte). Subte B, Malabia/bus 55, 65, 76, 92, 106, 109. Open Classes 6-7pm Wed; 9.30-10.30pm Thu; 9-10.30pm Fri. Milonga after classes. Admission Classes AR$30-$50. Milonga by donation. No credit cards. Map G1.

thundering, rock-inspired tango of Orquesta Típica Fernández Fierro (www.fernandezfierro.com). Outside the ever-evolving mainstream, there’s a more experimental scene led by Latino fusioneers La Chicana. Also keep an ear out for live performances by local electronica acts Bajofondo, Otros Aires, Narcotango and Tanghetto, who have given tango a bass groove.

Where to watch tango

The most authentic and affordable place to watch tango is at a milonga, where there is usually a performance from invited professional dancers. Two of BA’s most atmospheric milongas are the free, outdoor Milonga del Indio, held every Sunday evening in San Telmo’s Plaza Dorrego, and Belgrano’s La Glorieta (see p140). If you’re looking for a glitzier introduction to the genre, then a tango dinner show – aimed squarely at the tourist dollar, some do not accept local currency – is certainly entertaining. Splendid old Café Tortoni (see p19) and Confitería Ideal (see p140) are on the more affordable side of things and are highly atmospheric, as is the Centro Cultural Borges (see p120), which has a small theatre in which some of BA’s best tango shows are held every week. To catch street tango for the price of a tip dropped into a hat, head for calle Florida most afternoons, Caminito in La Boca during the day or San Telmo on Sundays. Café de los Angelitos Stained glass and a gold and powder blue interior give this historic coffee house an ethereal ambience in keeping with its name. The celestial enchantment continues with

free-flowing wine, a three-course dinner and a spectacular tango show that will leave you feeling nostalgic for belle epoque elegance. Avenida Rivadavia 2100, y Junín, Once (4952 2320/www.cafedelosangelitos. com). Subte A, Pasco/bus 12, 60, 150, 168. Open 8am-1am Mon-Fri; 8am-2am Sat, Sun. Dinner 8.30pm. Show 10.15pm. Tickets US$90; US$130 with dinner. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D3. Complejo Tango A huge performance space deep inside an old house is the venue for this show filled with tango passion and complete with an edgy knife-fight dance by a lone hombre, scuffles in a bordello and an all-round impressively choreographed performance. This is one tanguería where the dinner is well worthwhile, and don’t miss the brilliant class beforehand. Avenida Belgrano 2608, y Saavedra, San Cristóbal (4941 1119/www. complejotango.com.ar). Subte H, Venezuela/bus 56, 101, 188. Open from 7.30pm daily. Class 7.30pm. Dinner 8.30pm. Show 10pm. Tickets US$55 show and class; US$85-$120 show, dinner and class; US$200 show, dinner, class and VIP attention. 20% discount online. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D2.

Esquina Homero Manzi The street corner where this establishment sits was immortalised in Homero Manzi’s tango ‘Sur’, and shows here attempt to recreate some of the atmosphere of bygone days in this traditional barrio. An energetic quintet is accompanied by alternating dancers and singers who belt out classics like ‘Malena’ and ‘El día que me quieras’. Avenida San Juan 3601, y Avenida Boedo, Boedo (4957 8488/www. esquinahomeromanzi.com.ar). Subte E, Boedo/bus 20, 88, 91. Open 9-11.45pm daily. Dinner 9pm. Show 10pm. Tickets AR$400; AR$900 with dinner. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D1. Rojo Tango For the best tango show your money can buy, it doesn’t get any more deluxe than Rojo Tango. You’ll be greeted with a glass of champagne before an excellent three-course meal that includes the likes of beef carpaccio, loin of veal with potato tatin and dulce de leche crème brûlée. Granted, it doesn’t really break any rules, but that’s not what you came for anyway. Instead, Rojo is polished and flamboyant; in a word, it’s Faena. Faena Hotel Buenos Aires, Martha Salotti 445, Puerto Madero (4952 4111/www.rojotango.com). Bus 2, 4, 20, 64, 129. Open 8.30pm-midnight daily. Dinner 8.30pm. Show 10pm. Tickets US$200; US$270 with dinner. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5.

La Esquina de Carlos Gardel OK, so it’s a very touristy show. But the venue is grand, the dancers are sexy and the dinner involves big steaks and blood-red wine. Pasaje Carlos Gardel 3200, y Anchorena, Abasto (4867 6363/ www.esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 29, 168, 180. Open 8.30pm-midnight daily. Dinner 9pm. Show 10.30pm. Tickets US$96; US$140 with dinner. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E3.

Sabor a Tango This slick show is staged in the magnificent former Palazzo Rossini, Argentina’s first opera house, which dates all the way back to 1878. Flamboyant tango choreography is interspersed with performances by drum-wielding gauchos and an anguished Evita crooning ‘Don’t Cry for Me Argentina’ from a balcony. The three-course dinner includes all-night wine refills. Juan Domingo Perón 2535, entre Larrea y Paso, Once (4953 8700/ www.saboratango.com.ar). Subte A, Alberti/bus 24, 95. Open from 8.30pm daily. Dinner 8.30pm. Show 10pm. Tickets US$45-$90; US$120 with dinner. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D3.


Where to shop

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Many tango dancers are well-heeled

Buenos Aires is an excellent place to bag a gorgeous (and affordable) pair of killer tango heels. Some of Time Out’s favourite shoe shops for women are Comme Il Faut (see p98), Taconeando (Avenida Córdoba 4030, 2063 9671, www.taconeandoshoes.com. ar), Alma (Estados Unidos 652, 4307 5153, www.almabuenosaires.com) and NeoTango (Sarmiento 1938, 4951 8694, www.neotangoshoes.com). As well as making super-comfortable heels, 2x4alpie (Scalabrini Ortiz, white bell, 4831 6522, www.2x4alpie.com) does a hip range of flat, trainer-style shoes for both men and women. Flabella (Suipacha 263, 4322 6036, www.flabella. com) is a fairly ordinary looking shop featuring a fine collection of well-priced

footwear. The extra service is what sets it apart, as the store can make shoes by hand in a couple of weeks to suit your specifications. For men’s shoes, swing by DNI (see p141) or Loló (Tomás de Anchorena 607, 4962 3860, www. facebook.com/lolotangoshoes), which offers a handsome selection of impeccably constructed men’s shoes. For clothes, try Monserrat’s Segunda Generación (Alsina 1569, 4382 2582, www.2gen.com.ar), a well-regarded supplier of both traditional and modern tango clothing.

Weekly tango agenda Who says late night dancing is only for the weekend? BA has a packed roster of hip, new milongas popular with younger dancers. Monday Start the week in style at La Bicicleta. Dressing up isn’t necessary, but the classy decor and chequerboard floor seem to inspire it, making this the most elegant milonga to attract a younger crowd. Gorriti 5417, Palermo (www.facebook.com/ labicicletapracticadetango). Class 9-10.30pm. Milonga 10.30pm-2am. Tuesday El Escolazo is a new event at the decades-old Fulgor social club. A young, energetic crowd sweeps away the cobwebs with barridas and volcadas. Loyola 828, Villa Crespo. Class 9-10.30pm. Milonga 10.30pm-3am. Wednesday Behind an unmarked door on a deserted back street lies Zonatango, a warren of rooms offering live music and a terrace bar. If you fall in love with the bohemian vibe, come back for the Saturday milonga. The neighbourhood isn’t the safest, so take a taxi. Ask for address via Facebook, Once (www.facebook. com/zonatango.milonga). Class 9.30-11pm. Milonga 11pm-4am. Thursday It’s practically the weekend, so prepare for a late one. El Yeite doesn’t fill up until at least 2am, but the wait is rewarded with highlevel, athletic dancing and a party atmosphere. Beginners beware; the energetic regulars may intimidate newbies. Avenida Córdoba 4175, Palermo (www.facebook.com/el yeitetangoclub). Class 10-11.30pm. Milonga 11.30pm-5.30am. Friday The name of Sin Gomina (‘without hair gel’) says it all: tango without the pretension. Here you’re more likely to find people dancing in a tatty pair of Converse than patent leather shoes, and the laid-back milonga also boasts performances of original music. Chile 1351, Monserrat (www.facebook.com/Sin Gomina.Milonga). Class 8-9.30pm. Milonga 9.30pm-2am.


Photograph: Algodon Mansion







Telos (love hotels)


Hotel index



Mio Buenos Aires (see p150)

The essentials

The ever-rising black market dollar rate means that those in possession of greenbacks may find themselves able to afford more luxurious surroundings than they previously imagined. Many hotels also have discounts for customers paying in cash, so be sure to enquire before parting with your plastic. What are the options? That all depends on what you’re after. From French palaces like the Mansión at the Four Seasons Hotel (see p150), and tango academies such as Mansión Dandi Royal (see p140) to new eco-friendly hotel Palo Santo (see p154) and the recently opened Own Grand Palermo Soho (see p154), there’s no doubt you’ll find something to suit your needs. For a slice of hotel luxury without splashing out on an overnight stay, head to the Alvear Palace Hotel’s new Champagne Bar (see p148) for a glass of bubbly. If you’d like the independence of your own apartment, there are a myriad of options for short-term rentals (see p156), while those on a budget can stay at one of BA’s hostels (see p157). The latter range from party hangouts to relaxed retreats. PRICES, BOOKINGS AND SERVICES The hotels reviewed below are divided by area. We have noted price categories by using one to four dollar signs to represent the price of a double room, as follows: Deluxe $$$$, over US$350/

AR$3050 for a double; High-end $$$, US$200-$350/AR$1750-$3049; Moderate $$, US$100-$199/AR$880$1749; Budget $, US$50-$99/AR$440$879. Turn to pages 156-158 for the apart-hotels, hostels and telos (love hotels) sections. The prices in this chapter – given in US dollars – are the high season rates for the cheapest double room as quoted to us by hotels, and include VAT (called ‘IVA’ and charged at 21 per cent) and breakfast, though it’s best to check what’s included when you reserve. HOW TO USE THE LISTINGS This section brings together our pick of the city’s hotels. ! denotes a hotel that we would particularly recommend. A signals a hotel whose bar is worth visiting, where you are welcome for a drink whether or not you are a guest. D means free Wi-Fi for guests. NEW denotes a hotel that has opened in the last six months or so.

The Centre HIGH-END

Alvear Art Hotel With its gleaming marble floors, high ceilings and muted colours, the luminous lobby sets the scene for what’s to come. The Art Hotel offers the same luxury as the Alvear Palace Hotel (see p148); the two penthouse suites on the 15th floor are the pick of the crop, but the remaining 137 rooms include stunning marble jacuzzis and

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Nespresso machines. BA’s top mixologist Tato Giovannoni designed the drinks menu, while the roof holds a spa and heated pool. Suipacha 1036, y Avenida Santa Fe, Retiro (4114 3400/www.alvearart.com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 15, 17, 26, 39, 60, 70, 99, 100, 106, 141. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. DA Casa Calma Offset your carbon guilt with a stay at this eco-friendly hotel, complete with bamboo bicycles for guest use and double-glazed windows that shut out the elements and city noise. The bright, spacious rooms have a Scandinavian air, and there has been no skimping on luxury at the expense of planet-saving. Deluxe suites come with a mini sauna, four-jet showers and all rooms have jacuzzis large enough to bathe a harem. The ‘calm house’ delivers serenity through small touches: yoga mats in rooms, balconies draped with vines and healthy, hearty breakfasts served straight to your bed. Suipacha 1015, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Retiro (4312 5000/www.casacalma hotel.com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 10, 17, 26, 39, 45, 59, 60, 61, 106, 108. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D Plaza Hotel Buenos Aires If grand and traditional suits you better than boutique, this might be the place for you. The Plaza Hotel BA is over 100 years old, and the entire

establishment simply oozes old-world charm. The Plaza Bar is a glorious, Bauhaus-esque design treat, while the Plaza Grill is reminiscent of the banquet hall of an Austro-Hungarian count, with a colonial twist – note the fabulous velvet mechanical fans. The hotel’s location, overlooking Plaza San Martín, is one of the best in the city, and amenities include a fine fitness centre and a leafy terrace pool. Florida 1005, y Marcelo T de Alvear, Retiro (4318 3069/www.plazahotelba. com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 5, 6, 7, 9, 20, 23, 70, 75, 92, 106, 109, 152. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D A MODERATE

Castelar Hotel & Spa In business since 1929, this hotel deftly combines period atmosphere and modern amenities. The integrity of the original design is intact – one of the rooms even doubles as a museum to the memory of the renowned Spanish poet and playwright Federico García Lorca, who spent a year in exile living at the Castelar. Some of the interior rooms have limited light and are a tad melancholic, which is fine for an exiled poet, perhaps; other guests may prefer one of the rooms overlooking the tree-lined Avenida de Mayo. Meanwhile, there’s a fine Turkish spa in the basement, with steam rooms, a sauna and massage facilities for men and women. Open to non-residents too, this is one of BA’s more reasonably priced spas.

Avenida de Mayo 1152, entre Salta y Lima, Monserrat (4383 5000/www. castelarhotel.com.ar). Subte A, Lima/ bus 2, 5, 8, 10, 17, 39, 60, 64, 67, 105, 129. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4. DA Rooney’s Boutique Hotel This lovely boutique hotel, just a stone’s throw from the Obelisco, has a literary past, as do so many places in BA: it was once the residence of the Argentinian writer and poet Leopoldo Lugones. Today, the 14 rooms and suites still have beautiful original wood floors, gilded mirrors, high ceilings and lovely chandeliers. Designer Paula Piatti reworked the original style with a palette of cream and soft green to create a calm downtown haven in a busy neighbourhood filled with theatres and tango dancehalls. Guests have access to a lounge bar, a café and tango patio. Activities and tours can be arranged for guests as part of a package deal. Sarmiento 1775, y Avenida Callao, Tribunales (5252 5060/www. rooneysboutiquehotel.com). Subte B, Callao/bus 5, 6, 12, 124, 146, 150. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. D BUDGET

Moreno Hotel A stunning art deco exterior forms the shell of this seven-floor boutique hotel, with an interior that runs along minimalist lines interspersed with dazzling touches left over from the roaring 1920s, such as glazed wall-tiles, stained-glass windows and wrought-iron lifts. Breakfast can be taken on the airy terrace, which houses an open-air jacuzzi with wonderful views of surrounding San Telmo and Monserrat. The rooms themselves are generously sized, with whirlpool baths and either a balcony or views of the church dome next door. Gastronomes shouldn’t miss the chance to dine in the hotel’s hyper-modern restaurant, Aldo’s (see p30) and you can

also catch live acts at basement music venue Bebop Club (see p135). Moreno 376, entre Balcarce y Defensa, Monserrat (6091 2000/www. morenobuenosaires.com). Subte E, Bolívar/bus 2, 8, 29, 50, 56, 129. Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. D

San Telmo and south of the centre MODERATE

San Telmo Luxury Suites Once through the gorgeous doors of this hotel, you’d never guess bustling Plaza Dorrego was just a few blocks away. But prime location and tranquillity aren’t this hotel’s only charms. The beautifully restored antique home dates back to 1867: original wood beams, floor tiles and a chandelier rescued from a Jesuit church take you back to a bygone era, while the modern decor provides comfort and style. All 12 luxury rooms have a living area and mezzanine level and are kitted out with Philippe Starck lights and mirrors, Nespresso machines, iPod docks and original artwork. Before exploring one of BA’s most artistic and charming barrios, head to the leafy roof terrace and admire the view. The kind staff will be happy to help with restaurant recommendations. Chile 437, entre Bolívar y Defensa, San Telmo (4343 1888/www.santelmo

luxury.com). Bus 10, 17, 29, 62, 64, 70, 74, 152. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map A4. D BUDGET

Hotel Babel Once home to a multinational community of late 19th-century immigrant families, this renovated conventillo-style house continues to welcome visitors from all parts of the globe, maintaining the tradition of a hotchpotch of languages that inspired the hotel’s name. Located within walking distance of Plaza Dorrego, the intimate lodging has all the charm and personalised attention of a guesthouse. Nine air-conditioned rooms surround a small patio and are compact and pared down. Flat-screen televisions and chic bathroom suites add a touch of sophistication, and in the modest bar and lounge area you can browse an eclectic selection of books or contemplate the artwork on sale, while the obliging staff prepare your tipple of choice. Balcarce 946, entre Estados Unidos y Carlos Calvo, San Telmo (4300 8300/ www.hotelbabel.com.ar). Bus 10, 24, 29, 74, 195. Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D Monserrat Apart Hotel Sandwiched between the centre and San Telmo, this hotel offers easy access to many of the city’s top landmarks. Granted, every room has a microwave, but despite its name, this is more of a hotel than an apart-hotel. Amenities include plasma screens, free Wi-Fi,


Arroyo Hotel Fresh from a head-to-toe makeover that revived it from drab ’80s decor, the Arroyo Hotel fills a void in its neighbourhood. It’s no mean feat to find affordable hotels in the city that are decorated with custom art and

design and within walking distance of BA’s main attractions, let alone in a barrio typically dominated by travelling businessmen. Retiro’s Arroyo Hotel manages just that. Night owls will love its proximity to Florería Atlántico (see p72) and BASA Bar (see p72), while culture seekers can walk just a few blocks to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (see p122) and the Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano (see p118). And should you want to escape the city, the Retiro bus terminal is just a stone’s throw away. If that weren’t enough, the stunning mural by artist Eloísa Ballivian in the lobby will surely convince you to book a night. Suipacha 1359, entre Juncal y Arroyo, Retiro (5276 7700/www.arroyotowers. com). Subte C, San Martín/bus 45, 59, 67, 92, 101, 106. Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. D

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Patios de San Telmo (see p148)


Argentinian food. Decorative motifs include gashes of cut red glass in antique bohemian style, also on sale in the boutique shop, which is open to mere mortals too, as are the Library Lounge (see p74), the lovely pool bar, the cabaret theatre and the spa. For information on Faena’s tango shows, see page 142. Martha Salotti 445, Dique 2 (4010 9000/www.faena.com). Subte B, LN Alem/bus 2, 61, 62, 64, 103, 143, 152. Rates $$$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. DA HIGH-END

Recommended Champagne Bar

Legend has it that when French Benedictine monk Dom Pierre Pérignon accidentally invented champagne, he exclaimed, ‘I’m drinking stars!’. If ever there were a bar that recreated that feeling, it’d be the new Champagne Bar at the Alvear Palace Hotel (see right). What used to be a smoky cigar lounge is now a chic, art deco-inspired bar. Local celebrity bartender Inés de los Santos designed the menu of cocktails, which includes a classic champagne cocktail garnished with a spicy ginger sweet, and original creations like the L’Hugo, a concoction of sparking wine, fresh mint, lime and Patagonian elderberry syrup. Most of the drinks are made with Argentinian sparkling wines Baron B and Chandon, but if you don’t mind splashing out, upgrade to a cocktail made with French Moët & Chandon or Veuve Clicqout champagne. On Thursdays, the bar serves up what may be the very best sushi in Buenos Aires. Whatever the occasion, dress to impress, indulge in a few glasses of bubbly, and you’ll soon be convinced you’re drinking stars as well.


comfy beds with crisp white sheets and a modern red and white decor. But what sets the hotel apart is the spa on the top floor. Book a massage with Dolores before trying out the heated indoor pool, jacuzzi and steam room. Salta 560, y Venezuela, Monserrat (4124 7500/www.hotelmonserratba. com). Subte C, Independencia/bus 2, 10, 17, 23, 39, 91, 96, 98, 100, 103. Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C4. D Patios de San Telmo The poor immigrant families who crammed into this restored conventillo (tenement-style structure) in the 19th century would be dazzled by its latest incarnation as a boutique hotel. Light streams through high windows into sleek rooms and suites, the best of these look out onto a series of palatial tiled patios, where guests can sit with a pre-dinner drink under a canopy of stars. The architect owners have cleverly combined Baroque motifs with contemporary elegance, and thrown in a permanent art exhibition to boot: dotted around the three-storey

building are quirky statues, photos and modern prints by local artists. There’s also a ground floor café that caters to coeliacs and vegans. Chacabuco 752, entre Avenida Independencia y Chile, San Telmo (4307 0480/www.patiosdesantelmo. com.ar). Subte C, Independencia/bus 10, 17, 24, 86, 129. Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B4. D Posada Gotan The traveller who favours a bohemian atmosphere will love Posada Gotan, a cosy bed and breakfast in Boedo, a barrio that has yet to be overrun with tourists. A typical neighbourhood casa chorizo, the house had been left in ruins until owners Thibaud and Gabriela blessed it with a full restoration. They lend a personal touch to every aspect of the business, from recommendations on the best spots in Boedo and tips on how to navigate the city, right down to a breakfast spread that includes bread baked by Thibaud and home-made yoghurt. The beautiful house also exhibits paintings by local artists and,

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if you fancy it, offers a lovely afternoon tea. Sánchez de Loria 1618, y Pavón, Boedo (4912 3807/www.posadagotan. com). Subte E, Urquiza/bus 4, 96, 127, 181, 195. Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V (only through PayPal). Map C1. D

Puerto Madero DELUXE

Faena Hotel Buenos Aires There really is nowhere like the uniquely ostentatious Faena Hotel Buenos Aires. If you are looking for a truly romantic and memorable getaway, the Faena experience is the one to choose. Designed by the one and only Philippe Starck, the hotel is sensual, sexy and sleek with exotic reds and contemporary whites and is housed inside the shell of a disused red-brick grain silo. The food at the El Bistro restaurant is exquisite, with a marvellously modern tasting menu, while El Mercado (see p36) serves more traditional but equally delicious

Hotel Madero This hotel is aimed at business travellers, but don’t let that put you off. The chic and well-located 197-room lodgings celebrated its tenth anniversary in 2014, and has plenty to offer couples and families, including a rooftop pool and the popular open-plan Red Restó & Lounge. In fact, the sleek restaurant’s loyal following of local customers is proof that this is more than just another bland business hotel. Other draws include the White Bar – which specialises in healthy and fresh fruit juices – a well-equipped spa and health club, a heated indoor pool, and a massage room and solarium. The upper floors afford stunning views of downtown Buenos Aires and the rooms are tastefully decorated. Rosario Vera Peñaloza 360, Dique 2, (5776 7777/www.hotelmadero.com). Subte B, LN Alem/bus 4, 8, 20, 152. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map B5. DA

Recoleta DELUXE

Algodon Mansion When only gilded ceilings and your own private butler will do, this sumptuous hotel delivers all the goods you have ever wanted. Tucked away on a quiet Recoleta street, just a few steps from the exclusive emporiums on Avenida Alvear, this 1912 belle époque mansion has ten impeccably-styled suites, each of which comes with a palatial bed and opulent bathroom. The teak-decked roof terrace boasts an inviting pool and open-air lounge, and the hotel’s luxurious spa, cognac bar and James Bond-worthy Algodon Wine Bar restaurant complete the decadent package. Montevideo 1647, entre Guido y Quintana (3530 7777/wwwalgodon mansion.com). Bus 17, 39, 59, 60, 67, 100. Rates $$$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. DA Alvear Palace Hotel During Argentina’s golden age, the expression ‘as rich as an Argentinian’ was shorthand in Europe for ostentatious wealth. The economic situation might be a little more complex these days, but the sumptuous Alvear still reeks of money and old-school class. This hotel fills half a block of the lavish Avenida Alvear, and its 192 rooms are an ocean of opulence in rich burgundies, with

antique French furniture and ample space. The lobby is a cathedral to power and riches, with gracious staff who never make you feel like an imposter in paradise, even if you patently are one. Among the hotel’s bars and restaurants are two of the city’s most illustrious dining establishments. A buffet lunch or a high tea in the spectacular L’Orangerie is the best way for non-guests to soak up the hotel’s ambience, while La Bourgogne restaurant is a gastronomic legend here in the city once known as the Paris of South America. Avenida Alvear 1891, entre Avenida Callao y Ayacucho (4808 2100/www. alvearpalace.com). Bus 67, 93, 130. Rates $$$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. DA

Hub Porteño The well-connected owner of 11-room boutique hotel Hub Porteño makes it his mission to personalise each guest’s stay. Choose from a host of ‘miniexperiences’: how about a tour of BA’s most exclusive boutiques with your very own personal shopper and chauffeur? Or a tango-tastic day of workshops and midnight milongas? As for the hotel itself, it’s clear from the moment you walk through the opulent marble entrance that no expense has been spared: pictures from Amalia Fortabat’s private collection hang on the walls and every room is adorned with antique furniture, a Nespresso machine and an iPad. The leafy roof terrace and gourmet restaurant Tarquino (see p38) complete a very pretty picture. Rodríguez Peña 1967, entre Avenida Alvear y Posadas (3220 6600/www. hubporteno.com). Bus 10, 37, 60, 62, 102. Rates $$$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. DA Park Hyatt Buenos Aires Contradictory as it might seem, opulence and minimalism are the


Four Seasons Hotel If you are looking for star-worthy lodgings, the Four Seasons will definitely not disappoint. With a dazzling reputation (Madonna, Shakira and Bono are all known to have been guests of the hotel), this 12-storey monument to taste and elegance boasts an immaculate garden, complete with an outdoor pool. The oriental-style spa provides tranquillity in a bottle and a masseur’s touch, and the 27 suites are light-drenched, spacious gems. Set apart from the main hotel is the historic La Mansión. This belle époque jewel looks and smells of old-world grandeur, with four gold-leafed reception rooms, seven luxurious suites and one extremely imposing staircase.

It can be rented by the suite, by the floor or (for A-list one-namers) by the house-load. There’s also the wonderful Elena restaurant (see p38), where you can enjoy Sunday brunch, and the Pony Line Bar (see p74). Posadas 1086, y Cerrito (4321 1200/ www.fourseasons.com). Bus 17, 67, 70, 93, 100, 106, 152. Rates $$$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D5. DA

Poetry Building (see p156)

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design imperatives at one of the city’s most luxurious places of rest. The entrance to the hotel is a portrait of neoclassical columns, marble floors and cast-iron gates, while the rooms themselves speak to a 21st-century sensibility. The hotel boasts a vinoteca with over 3,000 bottles of Argentinian wines (including some of the best malbecs ever poured), a cheese room (that’s right: a cheese room) and three restaurants. By day, succumb to the delights of the Ahin Wellness Spa and its 25-metre pool. By night, enjoy a spot of al fresco dining on the terraces, before retiring to the Oak Bar, where a fire warms a room decked out in antique wooden panels and leather armchairs in the style of a posh gentlemen’s club. Avenida Alvear 1661, entre Montevideo y Rodríguez Peña (5171 1234/www.buenosaires.park.hyatt.com). Bus 17, 60, 61, 67, 93, 124, 152. Rates $$$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4.DA HIGH END

Mio Buenos Aires Owned by the Catena clan – Argentina’s most famous family of winegrowers – this Recoleta hotel is, unsurprisingly, filled with viticultural touches. Both wine buffs and interior design fanatics will appreciate the gorgeous French oak barrel doors, the champagne dispenser and fine selection of wines in every room, as well as the muted, earthy colours of the hotel decor. The modern rooms are all equipped with Nespresso machines,

iPod docks and balconies, and some have a living area, while the bathrooms contain sweet-smelling L’Occitane products. There’s a spa and pool and if you opt for one of the terrace suites, you get your very own outdoor jacuzzi. Avenida Quintana 465, y Ayacucho (5295 8500/www.miobuenosaires.com). Bus 10, 37, 60, 62, 102, 110, 130. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E5. DA MODERATE

Design Suites & Towers The lobby sets the tone for the hip and seemingly ever-expanding mini chain Design Suites. It has the communal, relaxed ambiance of a backpacker’s hostel – one frequented by wealthy young hipsters. The well-lit, minimalist suites come in three sizes: standard, for one or two people, and larger suites for up to four (five if agreed in advance). Booking a room also gets you access to a fitness centre around the corner. At night, eat at the hotel’s sophisticated restaurant, open to the public, which boasts a great wine selection and an appealing menu. Marcelo T de Alvear 1683, entre Rodríguez Peña y Montevideo (4814 8700/www.designsuites.com). Subte D, Callao/bus 10, 29, 39, 60, 132, 152. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. D Esplendor Plaza Francia Nestled among Recoleta’s finest greenery, this stylish and elegant hotel has 49 rooms with comfortable beds and contemporary comforts. Ask for a


coin-operated laundry and rooftop terrace with parrilla are all the amenities you need for that live-like-alocal experience. Nicaragua 5865, entre Carranza y Ravignani (3220 9600/www. palermoplace.com). Subte D, Carranza/ bus 39, 111, 152. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D MODERATE

Atempo Fancy your own two-storey loft apartment? How about a swimming pool out back? Atempo delivers the Palermo Hollywood dream at prices that can’t be beaten, complete with buffet breakfast, peaceful courtyard and in-house bar. Set on a quiet street, the 20 suites and eight sleek lofts in this ten-storey block come with king-size beds, kitchenettes, balconies and bathrooms large enough to practise your tango moves in. Arévalo 1564, entre Gorriti y Cabrera (5297 3333/www.atempohotel.com). Bus 39, 168. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. D Cabrera Garden Boutique Guesthouse

front-facing room for stunning views of the park, or even better, a top floor suite with picture-perfect views of the Río de la Plata and northern suburbs. The Esplendor also boasts one of the best buffet breakfasts in the city; fresh fruit, muesli, scrambled eggs and pretty much anything else you can think of are all on offer. Just the thing to prepare you for a day’s sightseeing in the nearby area. Eduardo Schiaffino 2189, y Avenida del Libertador (4807 7400/www. esplendorplazafrancia.com). Bus 17, 61, 62, 67, 92, 93, 110, 124, 130. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map C5.D Other locations San Martín 780, Microcentro (5256 8800); Guatemala 4931, Palermo (5217 5700); Fitz Roy 2172, Palermo (4772 7070).




The Glu Hotel The Glu was conceived and built as a hotel from the ground up, so instead of cramming the odds and ends of every end-of-line designer sale into rooms the size of walk-in wardrobes, here the smallest room measures 35sqm, and is decorated in irreproachably minimalist style. Immaculate rosewood furnishings, buff leather sofas and spotless linen bedclothes are all pleasing to the eye and to the touch. There’s a spa downstairs with a sauna and an invigorating Scottish shower. And no, that’s not a thorough soaking by icy, needle-sharp, sideways-on rain, nor a steady Dundee drizzle or a Glasgow general precipitation. Instead, it’s an invigorating shower endowed with extra powerful jets. Godoy Cruz 1733, y Gorriti (4831 4646/www.thegluhotel.com). Bus 34, 55. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D

Ilum boneheads too, including large-screen When you can’t decide between a city TVs, a pretty terrace with comfy break in Buenos Aires or a relaxing loungers and a bar and breakfast room. retreat on a Thai island, Ilum delivers Gurruchaga 1848, entre Costa Rica the best of both worlds. Buddha y Nicaragua (4833 1300/www. statues adorn this luminous boutique legadomitico.com). Bus 15, 34, 36, 39, hotel, where a cascading waterfall 55, 57, 110, 111, 141, 151, 160. descends into the lobby and a serene Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, back garden transports you light years V. Map G3. D away from the urban cacophony. There are just 12 elegant rooms here, spaced Nuss well enough apart that you don’t feel This elegant former convent is located like you’re going to bed with your just steps away from lively Plaza neighbour. The sizeable rooms come Serrano with its shops, bars and with a king-size bed and a pillow restaurants, so that despite your serene menu, and have either street-side accommodation choice, your stay here balconies or garden outlooks. will most likely be more about Sweeping views over the barrio can be hedonism, in one form or another, than had from the outdoor Nordic-style asceticism. But if you’re determined to jacuzzis, or take the muscle-melting remain cloistered away for a weekend bliss indoors with an in-room massage. of uninterrupted rest and relaxation, El Salvador 5726, y Bonpland (4776 Nuss’s comfortable, contemporary 8667/www.ilumhotel.com). Bus rooms, infused with an 39, 57, 93, 111. Rates $$$ understated old-school double. Credit AmEx, sophistication, are ideal. MC, V. Map H2. D A small gym and sauna Hotel dining are complemented by a Guest or not, you won’t rooftop terrace, where !Legado Mítico regret dinner at hotel Let’s face it: theme hotels you can take a dip in the restaurants Elena (see pool, though it’s more rarely work outside Las p38), Uco (see p46) and Vegas; only on the Strip ornamental than Casa Umare (see does it really matter Olympic-size. p155). whether your bellhop is El Salvador 4916, y Jorge dressed as a Roman centurion or Luis Borges (4833 8100/www. Sammy Davis Jr. So kudos to the nusshotel.com). Bus 34, 39, 55, 168. designers of Legado Mítico, who have Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, created a themed boutique hotel that V. Map G3. D doesn’t sacrifice comfort and style to gimmickry. Each of its 11 spacious Palermo Place rooms is devoted to a famous figure from You’ll find plenty of space and Argentinian history, including tango tranquillity at this boutique hotel set genius Carlos Gardel, beloved author on a pretty, tree-lined street. The 26 Jorge Luis Borges and, it hardly needs plush, modern rooms come with saying, former First Lady Eva Perón. kitchenettes and French balconies from The rooms’ decorations honour their where you can take in expansive views respective themes, with books, over the low-rise neighbourhood. photographs and posters that not only Breakfast like an Argentinian on look good but are genuinely illuminating. alfajores and coffee, or pay a bit more But don’t worry, you won’t be tested on and receive coupons for one of four any of this, and there’s plenty of stuff for excellent local cafés. A small gym,

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BA Sohotel Fresh flowers, Chesterfield sofas and a convivial atmosphere greet visitors at this friendly Palermo Soho hotel. The pea green and vermilion colour scheme runs throughout, as do contemporary paintings by local artists. Spacious, modern bedrooms are outfitted with custom furniture and have balconies with vistas of Palermo and disabled-accessible amenities to boot. The hotel is in close proximity to all Palermo’s best bars and shopping, but if rest is on your agenda, book the seventh floor Premium suite and order a massage in your room. Better yet, enjoy the rooftop parrilla, wood-decked terrace with a jacuzzi and multi-language library. Paraguay 4485, y Jorge Luis Borges (4832 4474/www.basohotel.com). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 12, 15, 29, 55, 57, 59, 60, 68, 188. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D Cabrera Garden Boutique Guesthouse Cabrera Garden is the holiday home you wish you had, and hosts Norman and Robert the wonderful friends you wish were looking after it. There are just three guest bedrooms in their impeccably restored 1920s house, and they fill up – fast. The Santa Rita suite, with a separate living area and balcony, is the pick of the bunch. It has a staircase leading down to the garden, where gigantic potted plants, a banana tree, a swimming pool and a pet parrot create the perfect tropical paradise. Delicious home-cooked breakfasts are served with love, and the attentive hosts offer a complete concierge service at no extra charge. Cabrera 5855, y Ravignani (4777 7668/www.cabreragarden.com). Bus 39, 93, 108, 111. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, V. Map H2. D Fierro Hotel Fierro Hotel has all the amenities you’d expect from a five-star hotel (with the

same mattresses as BA’s Hyatt to prove it) yet still retains its intimate boutique feel. The red and black rooms are spacious and all have balconies and original art on the walls. Because it’s cool and because it’s Palermo Hollywood, rooms are complete with iPod docks and suite guests have iPads at their disposal. But for something really special, book the one and only terrace suite with its own private parrilla and outdoor jacuzzi. The roof-terrace pool is small but sweet, complete with a dry sauna, but the highlight is the lovely garden surrounded by palm trees – a perfect spot for a pre-dinner cocktail (and there are good’uns, including Pimm’s). If the choice between drinks is just too much, you can always retire to your room for a relaxing massage. Soler 5862, entre Ravignani y Carranza (3220 6800/www.fierrohotel. com). Subte D, Carranza/bus 12, 39, 57, 60, 67, 93, 95, 111, 152, 161. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D !Home Hotel It’s not, truth be told, very homely at all at Home. Unless your house boasts flawless design, vintage wallpaper in every room, spa services, a personal shopper and is ecologically friendly to boot. Each of the rooms at this boutique hotel has its own, tasteful look, and super stylish loft apartments are available for further privacy. The breakfast is included in the room rate and presented like a tray studded with

jewels: a thimble of juice here, a shot of yoghurt there, bread, cheese, jam and an elegant morsel of chocolate ganache, and lots of good coffee. Book a suite beside the azure blue pool or a room with a view of the English-style garden. Guests and visitors can truly make themselves at home at the lovely restaurant and bar, or by indulging in a hot stone massage, a spot of reflexology or a relaxing facial. Alternatively, head out into the city by booking one of the many tours. Honduras 5860, entre Carranza y Ravignani (4778 1008/www. homebuenosaires.com). Bus 39, 57, 93, 111, 140, 151, 168. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. DA L’Hôtel Palermo L’Hôtel is a little slice of Provence in the heart of Palermo. Weeping willows drape over cobbled pathways, restored antique furniture could be straight out of a grand château, and then there’s the ‘secret garden’. This secluded oasis has a small but perfectly formed swimming pool, manicured lawn, shady trees, conservatory and high, ivy-covered walls. If you’re hiding from the paparazzi, this is the place to do it – they’d never suspect you were just one block from perpetually buzzing Plaza Serrano. L’Hôtel’s 23 suites – the best of which have garden views and jacuzzis – are spaced across two buildings, and despite the proximity to BA’s nightlife hub, deliver a surprisingly silent night’s sleep. The hotel’s concierge can also plan your

entire BA-and-beyond itinerary, in as much detail as you like. Thames 1562, entre Honduras y Pasaje Soria (4831 7198/www. lhotelpalermo.com). Bus 34, 39, 140. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Infinito Purple Haze might have been a better name for this hotel located near the botanical gardens: the lamps, doors, corridor wallpaper and even the yarn bombing on the trees outside follow the colour scheme. The second pervading theme is ecological friendliness; the floors are made with FSC wood and the hotel follows many energy conserving policies. The design of the rooms is minimal and modern rather than hippie, with plenty of white and touches of purple. Artwork is cleverly integrated into the headboards, which are splashed with images relating to Argentina (think salt flats in the north or the blue and white flag). Breakfast is served in the lobby area, where floor-to-ceiling windows and potted fig trees create a pleasant space. Meanwhile, up on the roof terrace, a jacuzzi and sauna provide relief to tired, post-sightseeing bones. Arenales 3689, y Aráoz (4832 1060/ www.infinitohotel.com). Bus 10, 12, 15, 29, 110, 118, 141. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F4. D Mine Hotel Boutique Atmospherically lit to accentuate the positive in both its design and its

guests, this first-class boutique hotel is decked out in brown and neutral tones and funky furniture that looks like it came straight out of a swinging 1960s bachelor pad – but cooler. Mine’s 20 rooms are retro without feeling stuffy, and original without trying too hard. The downstairs café, where breakfast is served, is a cheerful sort of place to start the day and meet other likeminded travellers, if you’re so inclined. Gorriti 4770, entre Malabia y Armenia (4832 1100/www.minehotel.com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 106, 110, 140, 151. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Miravida Soho With original features and plenty of old-fashioned charm, this six-room converted house has character and all the modern conveniences that a traveller could desire. Rooms are bright and breezy, with high ceilings, and private balconies in some. Miravida stands out from other boutique hotels in featuring a handsomely stocked wine bar and cellar. Darregueyra 2050, y Soler (4774 6433/www.miravidasoho.com). Bus 34, 36, 108, 111, 166. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D Own Palermo Hollywood For travellers who have always wanted their own master suite with a private balcony, look no further than Own. A stay here feels like attentive, stylish friends have lent you their hip hangout, one that conveniently includes

Hotels Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 153

are equipped with hydromassage tubs. Since you’re indulging in deadly sins, add a little gluttony to the list: don’t miss the delicious breakfast, which should set you up a treat for a day of strolling in the surrounding area. Thames 2226, y Paraguay (4776 8246/www.vainuniverse.com). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 10, 12, 15, 29, 34, 36, 39, 55, 60, 68, 93, 95, 166, 188, 194. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D

New in town Own Grand Palermo Soho

Own Grand Palermo Soho’s 63 rooms are spacious, modern and stylish. Although the hotel is large, the service still feels personal, and the list of amenities is so long you might find yourself spending more time in the hotel than originally planned. Head to the ninth floor for a massage, or to work those muscles in the fully-equipped gym, then retire to the rooftop garden to watch the sunset or float about in the heated pool. Own Grand Palermo Soho’s other draw is its location. The clue’s in the name, folks, and you’re right in the heart of it. Gurruchaga 2121, y Guatemala (4831 0800/www.owngrand.com). Bus 36, 39, 55, 110, 160. Rates $$. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D


flat-screen TVs, DVD and CD players, and a handy set of notes on local attractions. The location couldn’t be better, with plenty of shopping, dining and drinking options within a matter of blocks. For those who prefer to stay in, an intimate ground floor lounge where you’ll eat breakfast also hosts nightly drinks. Cabrera 5556, y Humboldt (4772 8100/www.ownpalermo.com). Bus 34, 39, 93, 108, 111, 140, 151, 166, 168. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D Palermitano As slick and stylish as it is well run and friendly, Palermitano marks itself out from the pack with lavish details like marble bathrooms in each of its 16 rooms. And there’s something satisfyingly egalitarian in the fact that the only major difference between the two suites and the rest of the rooms is size – everything else remains exactly the same. Don’t miss the chance to chill by the lovely rooftop pool overlooking Palermo Soho or to dine at the restaurant, the second branch of the downtown Peruvian fusion restaurant Sipan (see p56), complete with a patio for outdoor dining. Uriarte 1648, entre Honduras y El Salvador (4897 2100/www. palermitano.biz). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140, 151. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G3. D

NEW Palo Santo Eco-friendly hotel Palo Santo is proof that you can be kind to the environment without scrimping on style. Built to US Green Council building standards, the boutique hotel’s tasteful 24 rooms each have their own balcony, recycling bins and furnishings made from certified Palo Santo and Paraíso wood. Sit back in the leafy garden at French restaurant Topinambour and admire the 800 plants adorning the exterior walls (and offsetting the hotel’s carbon dioxide emissions), or head to the roof to relax in the hydromassage pool. Who knew going green could feel so good? Bonpland 2275, y Paraguay (4775 3829/www.palosantohotel.com). Subte D, Carranza/bus 15, 29, 34, 59, 60, 152. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D Prodeo Hotel + Lounge This 11-suite boutique hotel has already gained a following among touring international DJs. One look at the sleek, low-lit interior with a spangly mirrorball dangling from on high, and it’s obvious why. The sound-insulated suites are masculine and modern, with private balconies and window-side bathtubs. Electronic chill-out tunes pulse in the downstairs bar, where you can loll about on curved leather sofas while sampling fine Argentinian wines. If you’re feeling slightly more active,

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do some lengths in the indoor pool before easing aching bones with an in-house massage. Gorriti 5374, y Godoy Cruz (4831 4471/www.prodeohotel.com). Bus 34, 39, 55, 140, 168. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. D Ultra Hotel With a large, well-planned ground floor that lets hotel guests and visitors circulate through its eclectic spaces and come full circle, Ultra has a level of design savvy other boutique hotels would kill for. Shift harmoniously between the trendy lobby, the dark wood and leather of the library lounge, and a bright, shabby-chic conservatorystyle cafeteria. Spacious rooms, exceptionally friendly and helpful staff and a rooftop terrace with a pool are just the cherry on the cake. Gorriti 4929, y Gurruchaga (4833 9200/www.hotelultra.com). Bus 15, 34, 39, 55, 110, 140, 141, 151, 168. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2.D Vain The friendly folk at Vain believe there’s nothing narcissistic about pampering yourself once in a while. When you check in to this tranquil 15-room boutique hotel located a short stroll away from Plaza Italia, you’re offered a complimentary drink, and if this isn’t enough to de-stress, the Senior rooms

Vitrum Hotel This Palermo hotel is instantly recognisable from the street thanks to the colourful patchwork tiles on its façade; inside, design trends, up-to-the-minute technology and avant-garde art spice things up further. Vitrum recently upped its room and suite count, including a two-storey loft with psychedelic-chic wallpaper and calming studios with azure accents and colourful glass tiled bathrooms. There’s a stylish sushi restaurant on-site and an art gallery that leads to a lush, tranquil garden, but the pièce de résistance is the luxurious spa, complete with a gym, sauna, massage rooms and steam bath. Gorriti 5641, entre Fitz Roy y Bonpland (4776 5030/www. vitrumhotel.com). Bus 34, 39, 93, 111, 151, 166. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H2. D BUDGET

1555 Malabia House Much imitated though perhaps still not bettered, this establishment was at the vanguard of the boutique hotel wave in Palermo Soho. This former convent – once home to the ladies of San Vicente Ferrer, who would scarcely recognise its contemporary incarnation – benefits from its owner’s inherent flair for design. Mini outdoor areas combine to create a relaxed oasis, and the warmth of your reception will likely tempt you to linger – few travellers leave these premises unimpressed. The 15 tasteful rooms all have air-conditioning and one has its own balcony. Though the building underwent a renovation scarcely imaginable in 1896, it truly remains an urban sanctuary. Malabia 1555, entre Gorriti y Honduras (4833 2410/www.malabia house.com.ar). Bus 39, 55, 151, 168. Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map G2. D The 5th Floor Nestled in the heart of Villa Freud, a leafy residential area in Palermo famous for its high percentage of psychoanalysts, The 5th Floor is an art deco-lover’s dream. The boutique bed and breakfast has seven bedrooms spread over the fifth and sixth floors of what was formerly a 1940s petit hotel. A gorgeous marble staircase and an airy Andalusian terrace with hanging plants add to the stylish and serene atmosphere. British and Argentinian owners Miles and Verónica ensure that their guests are well looked after (including the option of a proper English breakfast complete with sausage and eggs) and have helpful

tips on navigating the city. Check the hotel’s Facebook page to find out what’s cooking at the monthly puerta cerrada restaurant. Address provided at time of booking (4827 0366/wwwthe5thfloorba.com). Subte D, Bulnes/bus 12, 15, 29, 39, 92. Rates $ double. No credit cards. Map F4. D Hotel Costa Rica Nestled in a quiet area of Palermo but close enough to the buzz, Hotel Costa Rica offers a bargain to be smug about. Originally two houses, the hotel retains a homely feel and the staff are among the friendliest Time Out has found. They’ll be on-hand to offer local advice as you enjoy a coffee or glass of vino tinto at the lobby-cum-lounge’s elegant but understated bar, in what would once have been the reception room of this beautiful house. The rooms are cosy and comfortable and the small but perfectly formed communal areas – such as the inviting upstairs terrace – play host to those memorable story-swapping encounters normally found in a more laid-back environment. Costa Rica 4137/39, entre Gascón y Acuña de Figueroa (4864 7390/ www.hotelcostarica.com.ar). Subte D, Scalabrini Ortiz/bus 15, 36, 57, 110. Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F3. D Livian Guesthouse Livian came to be when owner and ex-gymnast Lisandra began to invite friends to stay in her extensive family home. Nowadays you might not be a friend when you arrive, but you’ll certainly feel like one when you leave. The guesthouse is pitched somewhere between hotel and hostel, and its private rooms are complemented by inviting communal areas and a lovely garden where guests can mingle. The rooms are pretty too, each with its own theme and decorated with antique trinkets and artwork. The owners are also more than happy to provide sightseeing recommendations. Palestina 1184, entre Avenida Córdoba y Cabrera (4862 8841/www.livianguest house.com). Bus 19, 26, 36, 90, 92, 99, 106, 109. Rates $ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map F2. D

Las Cañitas MODERATE


!Casa Umare It takes a certain amount of vision to see a crumbling, nearly 100-year-old building in Almagro and imagine a sumptuous boutique hotel in its place. Fortunately, owners Andrea and Pablo had such a vision, and after three years of restoration, Casa Umare came to life in 2012. The marble entranceway and stained-glass windows retain the traditional feel of the house, while each of the hotel’s six unique apartments (all of which come with a kitchen and dining room) has an eclectic mix of modern and antique furniture, and paintings by Pablo adorn the walls. The restaurant in the hands of chef Darío Gualtieri and well-stocked wine cellar are worth a visit even if you aren’t a guest. But what makes Umare really come to life is the exceptionally friendly and attentive staff. Billinghurst 362, y Sarmiento, Almagro (4861 2030/www.casaumare. com). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 92, 104, 127, 146, 151, 160. Rates $$$$ double. Credit MC, V. Map E2. D MODERATE

Racó de Buenos Aires ‘Off the beaten track’ is frequently a euphemism for tricky to get to, but this intimate hotel is tucked conveniently close to the Subte and bus stops on busy Avenida Rivadavia. Named after the Catalan word for ‘corner’ in homage to owner Julián’s time in Barcelona, and filled with great artwork by local artists, Racó is located in Almagro, home to the charming, old-school Las Violetas café (see p22) and pleasant residential streets with restaurants populated more by locals than by tourists. The 12 comfortable rooms are all decorated in contrasting styles – a deluxe room might be decorated in safari prints or floral patterns. Yapeyú 271, y Hipólito Yrigoyen, Almagro (3530 6075/www. racodebuenosaires.com.ar). Subte A, Castro Barros/bus 5, 128, 132, 151. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E1. D Querido B&B This stylish bed and breakfast, just minutes away from Palermo, is run by an Anglo-Brazilian couple who have created a modern but homely lodging. Although it’s been beautifully renovated, the building still retains some original features. Each of the seven double rooms has an en-suite bathroom and flat-screen TV, and four have a balcony. A basket of delicious baked goods awaits you for breakfast each morning and the owners are experienced travellers happy to share their tips. The cosy living area contains various books to read outside on the lovely patio. Juan Ramírez de Velasco 934, entre Thames y Serrano, Villa Crespo (4854 6297/www.queridobuenosaires.com). Subte B, Malabia/bus 15, 55. Rates $$ double. Credit MC, V. Map G1. D


248 Finisterra Although it’s just a stone’s throw away from the buzzing bars, cafés and shops that draw so many to Las Cañitas, 248 Finisterra is more of a warm refuge from the hustle and bustle. From the contemporary decor – which is offset by a sensible smattering of antique objects – to the serene garden and rooftop hardwood deck complete with a hot tub, Las Cañitas cool infuses this smart boutique hotel. If you do wish to take advantage of the upmarket night scene, then you’re in just the right spot. Báez 248, entre Arguibel y Arévalo (4773 0901/www.248finisterra.com). Bus 10, 15, 29, 39. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map H4. D

Almagro and Villa Crespo

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 155


Pop Hotel Neighbourhoods like Palermo are littered with pricey boutique hotels, but Pop Hotel brings something different to the genre. Located in the up-and-coming ‘outlet zone’ of Villa Crespo, this is Buenos Aires’s first ‘budget boutique’ hotel. Pop, with its psychedelic wall patterns and Roy Lichtenstein-inspired reception, is an ode to pop art, and manages to offer comfort with a bright splash of style, for less. All 44 rooms have plasma TVs, iPod docks and kitchenettes, while the deluxe and master suites have balconies. Rooms also have tea, coffee and orange juice for breakfast, and croissants will be delivered to your door daily. Juan Ramírez de Velasco 793, y Gurruchaga, Villa Crespo (4776 6900/ www.pophotelsbuenosaires.com). Subte B, Malabia/bus 15, 24, 34, 55, 90, 106, 168. Rates $ double. Credit MC, V. Map G1. D

San Isidro HIGH-END


Better equipped than an ordinary hotel room, but requiring less commitment than renting a property, BA’s apart-hotels combine the advantages of self-catering with the convenience of hotel services. THE CENTRE

Livin’ Residence Livin’ Residence’s apartments, close to Recoleta and Microcentro, range from studios for lone travellers to twobedroom options. Every apartment comes with a kitchenette and a balcony. There’s also free internet, a gym, jacuzzi and a communal rooftop area with a parrilla. A babysitter or catering for a dinner party can also be arranged on request. Ground floor,Viamonte 1815, entre Avenida Callao y Riobamba, Once (5258 0300/www.livinresidence.com). Subte D, Callao/bus 12, 23, 26, 29, 37. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map D4. D LA BOCA

Patios de La Boca This corner of La Boca is one of the city’s less salubrious areas – keep your wits about you in the surrounding


Hotel del Casco San Isidro is an irresistibly quaint neighbourhood that has been a popular short excursion from BA’s bustle since the 18th century. It has been more attractive than ever since this 19th-century house was converted into a hotel. With its whitewashed porticoes, wrought-iron lanterns and interior glass-ceilinged patio, the place is charming and old-fashioned. But it

doesn’t lack modern amenities, such as a business centre, health club and pool. Avenida del Libertador 16170 (4732 3993/www.hoteldelcasco.com.ar). Train to San Isidro from Retiro. Rates $$$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. D

The 5th Floor (see p154)

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streets, especially if Boca Juniors football team is playing at home – but it’s full of local character. With airy outdoor spaces and bright interior colour schemes, Patios de la Boca comprises ten self-contained apartments plus a communal garden and a terrace. There’s a three-night minimum stay here, but if you’re sticking around, ask about the excellent monthly rates. Wenceslao Villafañe 452, entre Almirante Brown y Martín Rodríguez (4343 4431/www.patiosdelabocaenglish. blogspot.com). Bus 29, 52, 86, 129, 130, 159, 168. Rates $$ double. No credit cards. Map B2. D SAN TELMO

Casa & Mundo Bolivar Snap up a hip studio or two-storey loft apartment inside this century-old house in the heart of the city’s most romantic neighbourhood. There are 14 fully-equipped apartments and each has its own unique character: lounge beneath chandeliers and a ceiling fresco in the spacious Baroque loft, or chill in the Oriental studio complete with Asian decorative touches. Leafy internal patios and a communal space in the lobby where guests can have a cup of coffee or a glass of wine offer a chance to mingle with fellow guests. The friendly Danish owner is always on hand to ensure everything runs as smoothly as a freshly laid bed sheet. Bolívar 1701, y Dr Enrique Finochietto (4300 3619/www.casabolivar.com). Bus 4, 10, 12, 24, 28, 29, 33, 39. Rates $$ double. Credit V. Map A3. D


Art Suites Situated on a quiet Recoleta block, Art Suites is a refuge for those who prefer spacious apartments to hotel rooms. There’s no sterile lobby with stiff couches and piped-in music; just a round-the-clock doorman and a lift to whisk guests to huge suites fitted with whirlpool baths and soundproof glass doors opening on to private terraces. Premium apartments, each containing two bedrooms and two bathrooms, can comfortably accommodate five people in style. As far as service is concerned, these discreet lodgings offer the best of both worlds, so that guests might forget they’re in a hotel until the doorbell rings in the morning, and a tray piled high with medialunas and coffee arrives on their dining room table. Excellent for long-term stays. Azcuénaga 1465, entre French y Juncal (4821 6800/www.artsuites.com.ar). Subte D, Pueyrredón/bus 39, 41, 59, 60, 61, 62, 64, 68, 118, 152, 194. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4. D Poetry Building Once a crumbling Recoleta mansion, the Poetry Building has been given a stunning new lease of life as an aparthotel. Spacious lofts, studios and a roof terrace with citrus trees, an organic allotment and a dipping pool provide tranquillity amid the Buenos Aires pandemonium. Guests have everything a local might need: information on the city and a local mobile phone. Pick

seasonal vegetables from the allotment to cook for dinner, and dance to the music of your room’s very own iPod as you prepare your meal. Junín 1280, entre Arenales y Juncal (4827 2772/www.poetrybuilding.com). Bus 10, 12, 17, 37, 39, 60, 93, 124. Rates $$ double. Credit AmEx, MC, V. Map E4. D PALERMO

double thumbs up. Backpackers heading south can run into America del Sur again at its Calafate hostel. Chacabuco 718, entre Avenida Independencia y Chile, San Telmo (4300 5525/www.americahostel.com. ar). Subte E, Independencia/bus 2, 10, 17, 22, 24, 28, 29, 45, 59, 100, 103, 126, 195. Rates AR$180 per person dorm; AR$310 double. Credit MC, V. Map B4. D

Palermo Tower Milhouse This sleek apart-hotel in Palermo creates a sense of calm the moment you Conveniently located between San Telmo and Microcentro, this threecheck in. It might be the fresh coffee in the lobby or the soothing chocolate and tiered 1890 house was built from materials shipped over from Europe. cream colour scheme, but the warm Nowadays, it’s the city’s liveliest and staff welcome certainly plays a part. most popular hostel, so be sure to All 23 rooms are spacious and have a book well in advance. Always buzzing living area and kitchenette, and most with a good vibe, Milhouse also offers have balconies overlooking the leafy tango classes and tours. residential street, but for a killer view, Hipólito Yrigoyen 959, entre Tacuarí y head to the rooftop pool. A Bernardo de Irigoyen, Monserrat washer-dryer and gym help (4345 9604/www. make longer stays more milhousehostel.com). convenient. Subte C, Avenida de Charcas 4955, entre Reluctant to leave? Mayo/bus 2, 5, 7, 8, 10, Avenida Juan B Justo y If you can’t tear yourself 17, 22, 98, 100, 103, Humboldt (3220 1100/ www.palermotower.com). away from BA, see page 105, 111, 126, 129, 146. 169 for information on Rates AR$180 per Subte D, Palermo/bus settling in and renting person dorm; AR$305 10, 12, 15, 29, 67, 69, apartments long double. Credit MC, V. 95, 108, 111, 152. term. Map C4. D Rates $$$ double. Credit Other location Avenida de AmEx, MC, V. Map H3. D Mayo 1245, Congreso (4383 9383).


Hostels CENTRE


America del Sur Backpackers who are accustomed to hostels that are falling apart at the seams will find bright, clean and modern America del Sur Hostel a breath of fresh air. Set in the heart of San Telmo, this is one of the city’s most pleasant hostels, with dorms and double rooms decorated in cheerful primary colours. Excellent disabled access throughout plus a room specially designed for wheelchair users wins it a


Back in BA A cosy little place on a quiet street in the heart of Palermo Soho, Back in BA has nine comfortable rooms, a renovated kitchen and a TV room. A central patio hosts regular outdoor asados, and the friendly bilingual staff, available at all hours, can help to arrange trips, tours and classes of all descriptions. Storage lockers have sockets inside so that guests can discreetly recharge any of their valuable electronic gadgets. Breakfast is included in the rate, and the friendly British owner is on hand most days of the week if you have any questions. El Salvador 5115, y Uriarte (4774 2859/www.backinba.com). Bus 28, 29, 34, 39, 45, 50, 55, 56. Rates AR$150 per person dorm; AR$430 double with bathroom. Credit AmEx, MC, V (only through Paypal). Map G3. D


Terrazas Estoril Attentive staff and a prime position on the top floor of a restored, century-old building make this one of the best hostels in BA. The Argentinian owners have thought of it all: bright and airy dorms, quality mattresses, big spotless bathrooms, breakfasts worth waking up for and a travel desk to make sure you hit the ground running. This isn’t a party hostel (go to Milhouse for that), but an excellent place to connect with like-minded travellers in the inviting lounge, well-stocked bar or at weekly rooftop asados against the backdrop of the Divine Comedy-inspired Palacio Barolo building. Frequent protests on Avenida de Mayo may disturb your morning slumber, but it’s all part of living in the heart of the city. 6th floor, Avenida de Mayo 1386, entre Uruguay y Talcahuano, Congreso (4372 5494/www.hostelestoril.com.ar). Subte A, Sáenz Peña/bus 5, 8, 10, 17, 24, 39, 60, 86, 90, 102, 103. Rates AR$170 per person dorm. No credit cards. Map C4. D

Ostinatto Hostel Clean, minimalist design has been successfully integrated into this ‘boutique hostel’, housed in a lovely early 20th-century building. With six interweaving staircases, at first sight the interior resembles an Escher sketch, but it’s one that comes with an in-house art gallery, free English, tango and yoga classes and ping-pong competitions. There’s also a private apartment on the penthouse floor, in case the urge to splurge on a lavish room should take hold. Chile 680, y Chacabuco, San Telmo (4362 9639/www.ostinatto.com). Subte E, Belgrano/bus 2, 8, 9, 10, 17, 24, 29, 67, 70, 86, 91, 98, 100, 103, 126, 129. Rates AR$125 per person dorm; AR$400 double. No credit cards. Map B4. D

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 157

Vitrum Hotel (see p154)

Eco Pampa Palermo If the idea of staying in the heart of Buenos Aires’s trendiest barrio isn’t enough to sway you, maybe the thought of staying in the city’s first eco-friendly hostel will. This tastefully renovated building possesses an artisticallydesigned yet minimalist interior, which is furnished with energy-efficient chandeliers, refurbished wood benches, an enormous common area and a bar selling cocktails and mixers. If you venture out to the rooftop terrace, you’ll also see a small organic herb garden. Guatemala 4778, y Gurruchaga (4831 2435/www.hostelpampa.com.ar). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 15, 29, 34, 36, 39, 55, 57, 110, 111, 141, 160. Rates AR$170 per person dorm; AR$420 double with private bathroom. Credit MC, V. Map G3.



Chill House Housed in a charming 1907 dwelling, Chill House has a relaxed but still decidedly sociable atmosphere and comfortable shared and private rooms. The cosy Chill Room, bright patio and weekly asados held on the rooftop terrace provide the perfect opportunity to meet other guests. There is a clean, communal kitchen, with nice added touches like the oranges available for you to squeeze yourself in the mornings, and the friendly staff are on hand to help you make the most of your time in Buenos Aires. Agüero 781, y Tucumán (4861 6175/ www.chillhouse.com.ar). Subte B, Carlos Gardel/bus 24, 26, 29, 71, 188. Rates AR$160 per person dorm; AR$550 double. No credit cards. Map E3. D


Telos (from the porteño backslang for hotel) are establishments offering rooms for rent by turns (turnos) for romantic encounters. This Argentinian tradition is popular with local residents looking to spice up their love lives, and is recommendable if you want to get a glimpse of what all the fuss is about. Don’t worry, there’s nothing dodgy about this practice: telos are highly transited, as many young people live with their parents until they wed, and some couples even rent a room for an hour on their lunchbreaks downtown. While the rooms’ decor is often tacky, telos are generally clean and discreet – efforts are made to conceal the entrances at the end of hidden driveways, though the law says that every telo must have an ‘albergue transitorio’ sign advertising its presence. Combining sauciness and sophistication, Dissors (Colectora de Avenida General Paz 900, Ciudadela, 4653 0134, www.dissorshotel.com.ar) is a great five-star option. More expensive suites feature jacuzzis and outdoor pools; rates range from AR$785 to AR$1285 for a three- or four-hour turno. BA’s most famous love hotel, the Los Jardines de Babilonia (Ruta Panamericana entre Alvear y Boulogne Sur Mer, Don Torcuato, 4727 0270) has lured many a porteño out of town for some raunchy role play. Rates for sessions range from AR$695 to AR$1345, the most expensive of which will get you a two-floor suite with a third-floor patio for sunbathing. Other turnos range from two to four hours. Check the website to see the latest promotions. JJ Hotel (Avenida del Libertador 7900, 4701 4800, www.hoteljj.

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com.ar) in Núñez has been satisfying its guests for over 35 years. They’re attracted by the property’s tastefully decorated rooms – AR$740-$1260 for three hours – and discreet, private parking with direct access to your den of iniquity. Rampa Car (Carranza 1347, 4773 6964, www.hotelrampacar.com.ar) in the heart of Palermo also provides easy access: the almost en-suite garages

mean you can drive right up and get down to it. Choose from several themed rooms, costing from AR$260 to AR$480 for a three-hour turno. But don’t be shy, there are plenty more stimulating love-hotel options than the few that are mentioned here. For a more comprehensive list of telos in BA, www. alberguesonline.com.ar lets you search by location, price and in-room extras.

Hotels index 1555 Malabia House 248 Finisterra The 5th Floor Algodon Mansion Alvear Art Hotel Alvear Palace Hotel América del Sur Art Suites Arroyo Hotel Atempo Back in BA BA Sohotel Cabrera Garden Casa & Mundo Bolivar Casa Calma Casa Umare Castelar Hotel & Spa Chill House Design Suites & Towers Dissors Eco Pampa Palermo Esplendor Plaza Francia Faena Hotel Buenos Aires Fierro Hotel Four Seasons Hotel The Glu Hotel Home Hotel Hotel Babel Hotel del Casco Hotel Costa Rica Hotel Madero L’Hôtel Palermo Hub Porteño Ilum Infinito Los Jardines de Babilonia

154 155 154 148 144 148 157 156 146 152 157 152 152 156 144 155 144 158 150 158 158 150 148 152 150 152 153 146 156 155 148 153 150 152 153 158

JJ Hotel Legado Mítico Livian Guesthouse Livin’ Residence Milhouse Mine Hotel Boutique Mio Buenos Aires Miravida Soho Monserrat Apart Hotel Moreno Hotel Nuss Ostinatto Hostel Own Palermo Hollywood Own Grand Palermo Soho Palermitano Palermo Place Palermo Tower Palo Santo Park Hyatt Buenos Aires Patios de La Boca Patios de San Telmo Plaza Hotel Buenos Aires Poetry Building Pop Hotel Posada Gotan Prodeo Hotel + Lounge Querido B&B Racó de Buenos Aires Rampa Car Rooney’s Boutique Hotel San Telmo Luxury Suites Terrazas Estoril Ultra Hotel Vain Vitrum Hotel

158 152 155 156 157 153 150 153 152 146 152 157 159 154 154 152 157 154 150 156 148 144 156 156 148 154 155 155 158 146 146 157 154 154 154

Getting away

Photograph: Foto Ruta



Day trips




Weekend getaways



Getting Away

wine factory, grape vine labyrinth, art gallery, antique car and motorcycle collection, rose garden, pet llamas, organic garden and beautiful lagoon ecological reserve. Route 92, KM 15, Tunuyán (info@ ernestocatenavineyards.com). CLOS DE LOS SIETE

French winemaker Michel Rolland and friends’ 850-hectare estate brings together some of the country’s greatest wineries: Monteviejo, DiamAndes, Cuvelier los Andes and Bodega Rolland. Tours of the vineyards, cellars and wineries are available by appointment only. Clodomiro Silva s/n, Tunuyán (mobile 0261 15 668 7680/www. closdelossiete.com). WHERE TO EAT

Coming soon to a bottle of malbec near you

A grape escape Allie Lazar wines and dines her way through Mendoza


t’s nearly impossible not to fall in love with Mendoza at first sight. Lush green vineyards, uninterrupted views of the Andes, never-ending sunshine (averaging 330 days per year), incredible wines, restaurants and laid-back friendly locals all make the province of Mendoza the ideal getaway from bustling Buenos Aires life. Thanks to a new generation of bright winemakers and innovative chefs, the Mendoza region has recently soared into the global spotlight as one of the world’s fiercest food and wine destinations. The fertile lands of the once deserted Valle de Uco are now positively exploding with revolutionary winery projects and luxurious hotels, while Mendoza city continues to see top chefs opening exciting restaurants where seasonal and local ingredients shine. Glitz aside, the more wallet-friendly Maipú region remains a draw for backpackers on a budget. It’s a two-hour flight from Buenos Aires to Mendoza, with daily depatures from Aeroparque. Or, you can take a 14-hour overnight bus

that leaves from Retiro. Mendoza is an easy getaway from BA for a long weekend, however wine fans certainly won’t regret a longer stay in the area. But in such a vast and spread out wine region, featuring thousands of vineyards, it’s critical to know how to go beyond the typical tourist track in order to smartly enjoy Mendoza down to the last drop of malbec.

Valle de Uco The Valle de Uco is no longer up-and-coming; it’s now the hottest place to be. A two-hour drive outside Mendoza city, this high-altitude must-visit destination in the foothills of the Andes has experienced an impressive boom in just a few years. The valley’s ideal grape growing climate, with sunny days and cool nights, fertile soil and incredible scenic views (especially in Altamira, Vista Flores and Gualtallary), has attracted the biggest names in the industry. Prominent winemakers Matías and Gerardo Michelini, Sebastián Zuccardi, Alejandro Vigil

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and Ernesto Catena have all taken inspiration from the Uco Valley’s terroir to develop some of Argentina’s finest wines. SUPERUCO

To learn from the best in the business what the biodynamic winemaking process is all about, visit the Michelini brothers and their families at their newest bodega and vineyard, SuperUco. Join them for an intimate lunch featuring ingredients that come directly from the organic garden, while drinking some of the brothers’ most beloved bottles. During Vendimia season from March until May, you can get your hands dirty by taking part in the harvest. Reserve your place in advance. Ruta 94, km 11, Tunuyán (0261 681 9773). FINCA NAKBÉ

Make an appointment for a tour of Finca Nakbé, the home of the prolific Ernesto Catena Vineyards, which produces wines like Alma Negra, Tikal, Animal and Siesta. The breathtaking biodynamic vineyard comes complete with a sparkling

At Siete Fuegos (Ruta 94, km 11, Tunuyán, 0261 461 3910), located at The Vines Resort & Spa, famed chef Francis Mallmann takes steak to another flaming level with incredible beef dishes, an impressive wine list and unbeatable views of the Valle de Uco. Newcomer chef Pablo Torres heads the kitchen at Casa de Uco (Ruta 94, km 14.5, Tunuyán, 0261 476 9831, www. casadeuco.com), where almost all of the ingredients on the seasonal menu come straight from the restaurant’s organic garden. Rincón Atamisque (Calle La Gloria 2054, Tupungato, 0262 248 7066, www. atamisque.com) offers a beautiful lunch featuring meats and homemade pastas, but the star of the show is the trout from the restaurant’s very own trout farm. Just as the name suggests, long standing favourite La Posada del Jamón (Ruta 92, km 13, Tunuyán, 0262 249 2053, www.laposada deljamon.com.ar) is known for all things ham, including (what else) a malbec-infused ham. WHERE TO STAY

The Valle de Uco has no shortage of luxurious resorts and spas. For the ultimate in comfort and relaxation, splurge on a room at the resort at Casa de Uco (www.casadeucoresort. com). Panoramic views and attentive staff make for a dream stay in wine paradise. Down the road at The Vines Resort & Spa (Ruta 94, km 11, Tunuyán, 0261 461 3900, www. vinesresortandspa.com), guests feel like royalty as they live it up in lavish villas. Finca Ogawa (Bascunan s/n, Tunuyán, mobile 0261 15 570 7646, www.fincaogawa.com) is on a magnificent vineyard and raspberry farm, where guests stay in their very own rustic cottage or modern villa.

Maipú Bikers and backpackers flock to Maipú, the most budget-friendly wine region in Mendoza. It’s a 40-minute bus ride from Mendoza’s city centre, via lines 171, 172 and 173, which can be taken at the intersection of

Catamarca and Rioja streets. For under US$20 per day, bike services like Maipu Bikes (Carril Gómez 2543, 0261 497 3311) or Mr Hugo (www.mrhugobikes.com) give cyclists a bike and map for a self-guided tour of the wineries in the area. TEMPUS ALBA

Revolutionary in clone research to unearth the most pure and true malbec wine, Tempus Alba has kept things in the family for five winemaking generations. With one of the best terraces in all of Mendoza overlooking stunning lush green vineyards, it’s an ideal pit stop for cyclists. Guided tours (reservation only) start at AR$65 and include tastings. Free self-guided tours are available Monday to Friday, from 10am to 6pm. Carril Perito Moreno 572, Coquimbito (0261 4813 501/www. tempusalba.com). FAMILIA ZUCCARDI

The Casa del Visitante at the Familia Zuccardi winery is like a wine lover’s Disneyland. The massive compound is complete with vineyards, a winery, an organic garden, olive tree orchard, art gallery and two restaurants. Visitors can take part in activities such as wine tastings, a picnic in the garden, bike riding, harvesting olives and tasting olive oil, and a range of cooking classes. Ruta 33, km 7.5. Fray Luis Beltrán (0261 441 0000/www.casadel visitante.com). WHERE TO EAT

It’s worth the trip to Familia Zuccardi just to try one of the restaurants. The aforementioned Casa del Visitante serves up beautifully presented dishes that are typical of traditional Argentinian cuisine, while

the vineyard’s other eatery, Pan y Oliva, presents a modern take on the classic Argentinian café.

Luján de Cuyo The birthplace of Argentinian malbec, Luján de Cuyo is one of the province’s first wine producing regions and is located around 20 kilometres south of Mendoza city. DE ANGELES

This tiny boutique winery boasts some of the oldest vines in Argentina, which date back to 1924. The charming bodega produces award-winning malbec and cabernet sauvignon, and the owner and winemaker takes the time to personally greet all guests. Sáenz Peña 1635, Vistalba (mobile 0261 15 515 5616/www. malbecdeangeles.com). LAGARDE

This winery was founded in 1897, making it one of the longest-running in the region. Lagarde’s visitor centre runs daily tours, tastings, cooking classes and offers lunch at the first-class restaurant. San Martín 1745, Mayor Drummond (0261 498 0011/www.lagarde. com.ar). WHERE TO EAT

At the beautiful Bodega Ruca Malen (Ruta Nacional 7, km 1059, Agrelo, mobile 0261 15 454 0974, www. bodegarucamalen.com), noted chef Lucas Bustos serves diners an elegant five-course lunch, impeccably paired with a selection of the winery’s finest bottles. Highlights include a grilled fillet medallion served with not one, but two malbecs – the Ruca Malen Malbec

2012 and Kinién Malbec 2010. Over at Bodega Ojo de Agua (Bajo Las Cumbres S/N, Agrelo, www. ojodeagua.ch), the eccentric Swiss artist and musician owner Dieter Meier came up with something extra special at his winery, in the form of talented chef Jaime Baeza. Baeza helms the small rustic bistro, which focuses on local meaty ingredients paired with the bodega’s fantastic organic wines. WHERE TO STAY

With a name translating to ‘between heavens’ or ‘between skies’, peaceful luxury boutique hotel Entre Cielos (Guardia Vieja 1998, Vistalba, 0261 498 3377, www. entrecielos.com) makes for the ideal relaxing retreat. The calming space is set on a working vineyard and features 16 uniquely designed luxury rooms and suites overlooking the mountains, complete with an outdoor swimming pool, the award-winning Katharina restaurant and a hammam and spa.

Mendoza City The laid-back feel of Mendoza – with its romantic plazas, tree-lined streets and the magnificent General San Martín Park – makes it the perfect wine lovers getaway from the perennially hectic Buenos Aires. WHERE TO EAT

Chef Pablo del Río dominates the local eating scene with two of Mendoza’s greatest hits. His innovative tasting menu at Siete Cocinas (Bartolomé Mitre 794, 0261 423 8823, sietecocinas.com. ar) showcases the ingredients and techniques of Argentina’s seven major regions. His latest and more

casual spot, Fuente y Fonda (Montevideo 675, 0261 429 8833), is open every day for lunch and dinner, and pays tribute to homestyle Argentinian cooking. Go sophisticated at Francis Mallman’s flagship restaurant 1884 (Belgrano 1188, 0261 424 3336, www.1884 restaurante.com.ar), located inside the historical Escorihuela Gascón winery in Godoy Cruz, just outside of the city. The award-winning eatery specialises in rustic, but elegantly served Argentinian cuisine. Daytime eating is synonymous with centrally located María Antonieta (Belgrano 1069, 0261 420 4322, www. mariaantonietaresto.com.ar), a modern French bistro where fresh produce is key. You can’t go wrong with any of the salads, which make for a light alternative to the otherwise meat-centric Mendoza cuisine. While the nightlife scene tends to be somewhat tame, Avenida Arístides Villanueva houses a decent selection of bars, including popular spot PH Public House (Avenida Arístides Villanueva 282). WHERE TO STAY

Mendoza is filled with budget-friendly, centrally located hostels. Try spots like Hostel Lao (La Rioja 771, 0261 438 0454, www.laohostel.com) or Punto Urbano (Avenida Godoy Cruz 326, 0261 429 5281, www. puntourbanohostel.com) for a pleasant and affordable stay. For a more peaceful sleep outside the city limits, head south to Lares de Chacras (Larrea 1266, 0261 496 1061, www.laresdechacras.com.ar). Located in Chacras de Coria, the 4-star boutique hotel boasts spacious rooms, each equipped with a balcony that overlooks a beautiful garden and outdoor swimming pool.

Getting Away

A deep red malbec is the perfect match for a steak prepared bien jugoso (rare)


Casa de Uco’s chefs source vegetables from its own organic garden

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 161


Day trips

Families flock to Tigre’s Parque de la Costa

Getting Away


RETREAT TO A LUSH WATER WORLD JUST BEYOND THE CITY You’re sure to enjoy the laid-back atmosphere and river breeze in Tigre, whether you’re scanning the stalls of Puerto de Frutos, taking a stroll along Boulevard Sáenz Peña (www. boulevardsaenzpena.com.ar), visiting the magnificent Museo de Arte Tigre (www.mat.gov.ar), touring the Museo del Mate (www.elmuseo delmate.com.ar), or simply escaping the hustle and bustle of Buenos Aires. Dense with silt, the Delta’s coffee-coloured waterways are home to 4,000 full-time dwellers. On weekends, porteños descend in droves, and the river heaves with motor boats and children splashing on the shores. Covering more than 7,700 square miles, parts of which are protected by a UNESCO biosphere reserve, the area lends itself to afternoons exploring its vast network of waterways. To get out on the water, take a trip on the Bruma, a spacious sailing boat, with Navegando por el Delta (mobile 15 5001 1324, www.navegandoporeldelta. com.ar). Alternatively, visit the Isla del Descanso (www.islaeldescanso. com) and walk through silent gardens full of giant sculptures, Japanese-style wooden bridges and the region’s native trees and flowers. Eat and drink Possibly the best restaurant in town, Il Novo María del Luján (Paseo Victorica 611, 4731 9613, www.ilnovo

mariadellujan.com) has a prime riverside spot. A more low-key alternative is florist and café Almacén de Flores (Boulevard Sáenz Peña 1336, 5197 4009, www.almacendeflores. com) which, as its name suggests, is as delightful as a bunch of flowers. To dine on one of the islands, take the river bus to Beixa Flor (Arroyo Abra Vieja 148, mobile 15 5228 1367, www. beixaflor.com.ar). The bohemian complex has stellar meals, its own beach and cabins to hire if you can’t tear yourself away.

Getting there and around Bus number 60 leaves from Plaza Constitución and takes up to 1hr 45mins to reach Tigre. By train, it’s a 50-minute trip from Retiro on the Mitre line. The Tren de la Costa (www. sofse.gob.ar) runs from Olivos (Maipú station) to Tigre and offers scenic views. To take a trip out on the waterways, sign up for a boat tour or fishing trip, or for those on a budget, lanchas colectivas (public river buses) depart regularly from the boat terminal (Estación Fluvial de Tigre, Mitre 305). Urban Biking (Esmeralda 1084, 4314 Stay the night 2325, www.urbanbiking.com) runs Housed in a restored 1860 posada, excellent cycling tours to Tigre, where you transfer from bikes to kayaks to Tigre Hostel (Avenida San Martín explore the Delta. Alternatively, rent 190, 4749 4034, www.tigrehostel.com. a kayak from Sculls (Paseo ar, US$22 dorm, from US$50 Victorica 614, mobile 15 double) has high-ceilinged 6812 6535, www.sculls. dorm rooms and doubles. com.ar) once in Tigre. For a spot of luxury Money matters there’s Delta Eco Spa SAN ANTONIO DE ARECO Travel and hotel fares (Río-Carapachay, km 6, WANDER THE can rise drastically 5236 0553, www. COBBLED STREETS OF during public deltaecospa.com, $$$ per A TRADITIONAL TOWN holidays. person, including pick-up The quintessential pueblo de and meals), which has a spa campo (country town), San and restaurant. Alternatively, take a Antonio de Areco makes for a lovely boat an hour and a half outside of day trip or overnight stay, a mere Tigre proper to stay in a cabin at 113km away from Buenos Aires. charming complex Puerto La Pista Founded in 1728 around a colonial (Río Paraná de las Palmas, km 60, 15 church, the town’s attractive cobbled 3206 8843, www.puertolapista.com, $$), streets and 19th-century buildings are which is popular with local families. home to shops, museums and For some deep relaxation, book a spa restaurants. The town is a gaucho hub day, which includes lunch, access to the and residents can often be seen spa and a massage. Enquire for prices. sporting berets (boinas) and billowing

162 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015


trousers with chaps (bombachas de gaucho). Strolling around its pretty, leafy streets, you’re just as likely to pass a cowboy on a horse as a child pedalling a bicycle. If this quiet town has a high season it’s in early November, when a buzz of rural activities leads up to the spirited gaucho festivities of the annual Día de la Tradición on November 10. San Antonio de Areco is ringed by a seemingly limitless expanse of flat, arid pampas. A trip can easily be coupled with a day visit or stay at one of the many surrounding estancias. Eat and drink Most of the cafés and restaurants in San Antonio de Areco serve traditional Argentinian food; expect pizza and empanadas and a slew of parrillas. The pick of the town’s traditional eateries is La Esquina de Merti (Arellano 147, 02326 456705), located on the town square. Stay the night Patio de Moreno (Moreno 251, 02326 455197, www.patiodemoreno.com, $$$) is a charming hotel aimed at the wannabe-gauchos-with-iPhones market, and has a small pool, wine bar and library. For a true gaucho experience, El Ombú (Ruta 31, Cuartel 6, 02326 492080, in BA 4737 0436, www.estanciaelombu.com, $$$ per person or US$100 for day visits) occupies a colonial-style mansion 16km from town. Rates include meals, riding and campo-related activities.

Escape to Maschwitz

Vik Arrieta is the director of Monoblock and author of the blog www.happimess. co, where you can read more on her adventures in Maschwitz and other parts of South America.


SAIL ACROSS THE RIVER FOR A SLICE OF HISTORY Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay’s oldest town, is a tranquil destination of cobbled streets lined with pictureperfect colonial houses, surrounded on three sides by water. A former Portuguese settlement dating back to 1680, Colonia’s historic quarter is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town is a popular day trip for Argentinians as well as expats living in Buenos Aires looking to renew their tourist visas (or so we’ve been told). Inside the walled town’s confines lies Plaza Mayor, a peaceful square lined with colonial houses. In the evening, head to the waterfront and sip maté like the locals. Eat and drink Colonia is full of cafés and restaurants, including several serving steaks, pasta and chivitos (grilled beef sandwiches topped with ham, cheese and egg). Try many of those dishes and more at El Drugstore (Portugal y Vascocellos, 00 598 52 25241, $$$$), a favourite for its tasty tapas and delicious seafood – grab a table in a vintage car outside. Perhaps Colonia’s best eatery is riverside café Lentas Maravillas (Santa Rita 61, 00 598 52 20636). Enjoy sandwiches, soups, Illy coffee and scrumptious chocolate cake as you browse owner Maggie Molnar’s bookshelves. Stay the night Charming digs in the old town can be found at eco-friendly posada El Capullo (18 de Julio 219, 00 598 452 30135, www.elcapullo.com, $$), which is run by an Anglo-American couple and boasts an interior garden and pool, offers bike rental and serves a delicious breakfast spread. For a friendly, affordable stay, go for El Viajero B&B (Odriozola 269, 00 598 4522 8645, www.elviajerobb.com, $), which is popular with backpackers. El Viajero also runs a hostel (Washington Barbot 164, 00 598 4522 2683, www.elviajero hostels.com) and has several locations along the Uruguayan coast. Countryside retreat El Galope Farm & Hostel (00 598 9910 5985, www. elgalope.com.uy, $, dorm beds US$25) is located some 50 minutes from Colonia. The owners offer lovely home-cooked meals, horse riding and bike hire.

Getting Away

The pueblos of Buenos Aires province aren’t exactly known for their charming cafés or vintage shops. Once you leave the confines of Capital Federal, you’ll find plenty in the way of traditional parrillas and quiet cafés, and not much else. But the town of Ingeniero Maschwitz is changing that. Known simply as Maschwitz, the town has recently become the province’s hottest spot for dining and shopping. Just 45km away from the capital, Maschwitz is packed on weekends and holidays with stylish porteños looking to swap the city life for a bit of country chic. Head to the beautiful calle Mendoza to get a slice of the action. With its wooden slats and saloonstyle architecture, the Mercado de Maschwitz (Mendoza 1731) looks as if it’s been transported over from the Wild West. On the ground floor, you can satisfy your stomach with a range of options, from parrilla and pizza to tapas and sushi, though be prepared to wait for a table at the weekends. Upstairs, there are shops, including tattoo parlour Black Kat, scrapbooking store Scrap Life, hip clothing shop Fan, vintage treasure troves ETC, Christen Antiques and Portobello Design and the one thing every trendy little town needs – a yoga studio. Be sure to have plenty of cash on hand or stop at an ATM, as most of the restaurants and shops accept cash only. A short walk away, the Die Ecke Universal Market (Ituzaingó 985) stocks men’s and women’s clothing and is crammed full of lovely homewares. Every surface is occupied by a tempting object, meaning you might come home with more souvenirs than you’d bargained for. After a bit of shopping, head to the patio for deli Casa Linda, which sells homemade delights such as a meltin-your-mouth apple crumble straight from the oven. As well as offering lunch and meriendas, Casa Linda also has wonderful dinner options (reservations are essential). Driving to Maschwitz takes about 45 minutes from Buenos Aires. Exit the Panamericana at Ruta 40.5km. To arrive via public transportation, take the number 60 bus (lines K or L), or the Costerna Metropolitana express 194 bus to Zárate. The second option is quicker and more expensive (AR$18), and takes roughly an hour and a half. For the number 60, you’ll pay AR$4. Traffic means the time to leave the city can vary greatly, so leave at least two hours for the journey. Whichever bus you take, get off at the petrol station on Ruta 26 and Panamericana and walk five minutes in the direction you’ve just come from to calle Mendoza. You can also take the train from Retiro (J.L Suarez line, change at Villa Ballester). The journey takes approximately two hours.

Getting there San Antonio de Areco is 1hr 30mins by car from BA on Ruta Nacional 8. Bus services leave from Retiro bus terminal (1hr 45mins).

Getting there To cross the river to Colonia, reserve a passage on a ferry with Buquebus (www.buquebus.com), or cheaper options Seacat (www.seacatcolonia. com) and Colonia Express (www. coloniaexpress.com). The first two leave from Puerto Madero, while the latter exits Argentina from La Boca. The trip takes either one or three hours, depending on which boat you take. Time Out insiders´guide to Buenos Aires 163


Puesto Viejo Polo Club

For city-dwellers in need of a break, estancias – working ranches that double as retreats – offer everything from horse riding and polo to fishing and gaucho shows. All the estancias recommended here are within a few hours drive of Buenos Aires and most offer a día de campo (day excursion) package complete with a hearty asado in addition to overnight lodgings. Buenos Aires can experience heavy rains during the winter months, so if horse riding is on your agenda, be sure to check the weather forecast before booking. One excursion is Argentina Polo Day (www.argentinapoloday.com.ar, mobile 15 6738 2422), which offers a full-day polo and estancia experience just outside of Pilar, some 45 minutes from the city. You can watch a game of polo while enjoying beef empanadas straight off the grill and plenty of malbec. Although polo is the main draw, it must be said that the asado lunch is better than most of the offerings at Buenos Aires’s numerous parrillas. Along with food and all the wine you can drink, the US$175 package includes a lesson geared to all levels, a polo match between the local club members and transfers to and from the city. If you’re feeling slightly more adventurous, and already have some experience with the sport, sign up for the Polo Clinic. Various classes, games, food and accommodation are included in the cost of US$350 per day, with a minimum stay of two days. Vito, the enthusiastic young founder of Argentina Polo Fields (mobile 15

6198 2217, www.argentinapolofields. com, from US$160 per person including transport), is determined to provide everyone with the polo experience, regardless of age and skill. A day at this scenic estancia includes an authentic asado with wine tasting, a thorough lesson with a focus on riding techniques, as well as a chance to play in a 4-chukka match. If at the end of the day you’re not ready to leave the campo, the estancia boasts luxurious accommodation with en-suite bedrooms, a library and a swimming pool. For another sleepover option, one of the ritziest estancias around is La Candelaria (Ruta Nacional 205, km 114.5, 02227 494473, www.estanciacandelaria.com, $$ per person or from AR$750 día de campo) in Lobos, 115km south-west of Buenos Aires. Surrounded by 100 hectares of park and forest, the large château looks like it belongs in the French countryside, but La Candelaria’s gaucho shows and asado will remind you you’re in Argentina rather than Europe. The sprawling grounds also include tennis courts and a pool, and there is an 18-hole golf course a few minutes away from the estancia. If you opt for a day of sports and activities, treat yourself afterwards to a well-deserved massage. As its name implies, Puesto Viejo Polo Club (Ruta Nacional 6 towards La Plata, in BA 5279 6893, mobile 15 5597 6644, www.puestoviejoestancia. com.ar, $$ per person or US$150 día de

164 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

campo) specialises in all things polo. The estancia is located 70km outside of Buenos Aires and holds daily polo matches, and polo or riding lessons can be tailored to ability. There are plenty of activites for those not as comfortable on a horse; the estancia also offers swimming, cycling and tango. Puesto Viejo makes it easy to unwind after a full day of activities, with massages and rusticchic rooms perfect for relaxation. Families looking for an easy getaway might want to opt for a weekend at La Horqueta (Ruta Nacional 20 to Ranchos, in BA 4777 0150, www.lahorqueta. com, $$ per person or AR$380 día de campo), 1 hour 30 minutes from the capital. The owner’s grandfather, Fermín Pierri, constructed the Tudor-style estate in 1928, when it served as the family’s holiday home. Fishing and boating can be enjoyed on the nearby lake, and guests can also explore the expansive estancia grounds either on horse or bike. Guests who prefer the great indoors can stay in to play poker and other card games over a glass of wine. If you’re looking to put more distance between yourself and the capital, complete relaxation is offered at the elegant La Oriental (JB Justo 420, Junín, mobile 15 5146 5210, www.estancialaoriental.com, $$ per person). The estancia’s beautiful grounds are located 250km northwest of Buenos Aires. The main house of this working ranch is an opulent abode, decorated with 1900s

French furniture, a library, family portraits and a billiard table. The price includes wonderful meals made with farm-fresh ingredients from the ranch. Estancia Monte Viejo (Ruta 215, km 51, Brandsen, 02223 441032, in BA 6607 7668, www.estanciamonteviejo. com.ar, $$ per person or US$98 día de campo) can be found just 78km south of Buenos Aires. Here, leaving the city doesn’t mean giving up creature comforts. Monte Viejo’s lodgings are equipped with gadgets like LCD TVs and Nespresso machines to keep guests happy, while breakfast includes an array of artisanal pastries. Plenty of activities will make even the most die-hard urbanite fall in love with the outdoors, including riding, fishing and either biking or walking tours of the beautiful, sprawling estancia, which has been named a site of historic interest. La Margarita (Cacharí km 7, Tapalqué, 02283 420530, in BA 4951 0638, www.estancialamargarita.com, $$ per person or $ self-catering) lies on verdant plains 280km south of Buenos Aires. Secluded by a forest of cedar trees, the colonial-style estancia has rustic decor and period mahogany furniture. Activities range from riding, swimming and cycling to milking cows and feeding chickens. The estancia prides itself on serving seasonal ingredients and local products in its meals. Self-catering is also available, and includes use of the outdoor parrilla.

comfortable rooms, its own restaurant and offers various outdoor activities. If you’re after an affordable private or dorm room in town, try Garden Stone Hostel (Avenida Córdoba 411, 3757 420 425, $).

Weekend Getaways

Getting there Both LAN and Aerolíneas Argentina offer direct flights to Puerto Iguazú, with trips taking nearly two hours, or you can opt for an 18-hour bus. BARILOCHE

ESCAPE TO ARGENTINA’S LUSHIOUS LAKE DISTRICT Set on the shores of a glacial lake, the picturesque town of Bariloche is both Patagonia’s party capital and the jumping off point for exploring the stunning surrounding area. Popular activities include white-water rafting, kayaking, windsurfing, horse riding, rock-climbing, mountain-biking, parapenting, scenic boat rides and, of course, skiing. If that all sounds too much like hard work, you could easily spend your days gorging in the chocolate shops and soaking up the view, and as night draws in, the locally brewed beer and packed clubs ensure that sleep stays firmly off the agenda.

Alma Histórica Boutique Hotel


EXPLORE THE STREETS OF URUGUAY’S CAPITAL Located on a peninsula that juts into the river, giving it a neat, compact shape, Montevideo is a city to stroll in, with a seaside freshness that makes a lovely change from BA. There’s plenty of ebbing grandeur in the Ciudad Vieja, where attractions include the spectacular Palacio Salvo, built in 1928, which overlooks Plaza Independencia. Interesting museums include the Museo Romántico (25 de Mayo 428, 00 598 2915 1051, www.museohistorico. gub.uy), which showcases the impeccably preserved belongings of the local 19th-century elite; and among the city’s notable art galleries, the Museo Joaquín Torres García (Sarandí 683, 00 598 2916 2663) is dedicated to Uruguay’s favourite painter. Save some energy for Sunday morning to visit La Feria de Tristán Narvaja. Found at the intersection of Avenida 18 de Julio and calle Tristán Narvaja, it’s arguably the finest flea market in all of South America.

Stay the night Housed in a restored 1890s building, the bright Macanudo Hostel (Paysandu 889, 00 598 2900, www. macanudohostel.com, $) has both shared and private accommodation, a rooftop garden and a TV room with Netflix. Stylish digs can be found at the Esplendor Hotel Montevideo (Soriano 868, 00 589 2900 1900, www. esplendormontevideo.com, $$). The Alma Histórica Boutique Hotel (Solís 1433, 00 598 2914 7450, www. almahistoricaboutique.com, $$) is a gem in the centre of the city with each of its 15 rooms dedicated to historical figures like writer Horacio Quiroga, poet Juana de Ibarbourou and tango legend Carlos Gardel. The fantastic view from the rooftop terrace is just the cherry on the cake. Getting there A flight to Montevideo with Buquebus or Aerolíneas Argentinas takes 45 minutes. Alternatively, the boat from BA with Buquebus takes three hours, or you can take a ferry to Colonia (1hr or 3hrs) with Buquebus, Seacat or Colonia Express, and then a connecting bus on to Montevideo (3hrs). IGUAZÚ FALLS

MARVEL AT ROARING WATERFALLS AND EXOTIC FAUNA Having got everything else out of the way, God must have spent the eighth day creating the dazzlingly beautiful

Iguazú Falls. The towering mass of spray and sound is one of the true wonders of the natural world, comprising 275 waterfalls straddling Argentina and Brazil amid 2,250 square kilometres of parkland. While a better panorama of the falls is to be had from the Brazilian side, the absolute highlight, Garganta del Diablo, or Devil’s Throat, belongs to Argentina. To enter the Brazilian side of the falls, Australians, Canadians and Americans must acquire a visa in advance of their trip, which costs US$35, US$65 and US$160, respectively. Visas can be obtained from the Brazilian Embassy (Cerrito 1350, 4515 6500, www.conbrasil.org.ar) in Buenos Aires. Eat and drink In Puerto Iguazú, sample classic Argentinian and Italian dishes at Aqva Restaurant (Avenida Córdoba y Carlos Thays, 0375 742 2064, www. aqvarestaurant.com), or head to family-run restaurant La Vaca Enamorada (Republica Argentina 79, 3757 421 179, www.lavacaenamorada. com.ar) and order whatever Italian owner Alberto suggests. Where to stay Just 15 minutes from the park, Iguazú Grand (Ruta 12, km 1640, 3757 498 100, www.iguazugrand.com, $$$) is a lavish resort with a casino, pool, theatre and spa. For a peaceful stay in the heart of the Biósfera Yaboti nature reserve, make the trip to eco-friendly Moconá Lodge (Ruta Provincial 2, km 65, 03751 1151 7076, www. moconalodge.com.ar, $$), which has

Stay the night The most luxurious and picture-perfect lodgings in Bariloche are 25km from the town centre at Llao Llao (Avenida Bustillo, km 25, 294 444 5700, www. llaollao.com, $$$). The stunning 15-hectare resort includes a beach, marina, golf course, spa and fitness centre, as well the obligatory lakes and mountains. Even if you don’t stay the night in a beautiful room, suite or studio, an afternoon exploring the grounds is one of Bariloche’s finest pleasures. At the lovely Hostería La Luna (Avenida Bustillo, km 7549, 294 446 2424, www.hosterialaluna.com.ar, $$), the affordable chalet-style rooms overlook the lake, while in the centre of town, the pick of Bariloche’s many hostels Penthouse 1004 (San Martín 127, 294 443 2228, www.penthouse 1004.com.ar, $) has panoramic views and a friendly atmosphere. Getting there A flight to Bariloche from Buenos Aires with LAN or Aerolíneas Argentinas takes two hours and twenty minutes. Buses leave from Retiro and take roughly 20 hours.

Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015 165

Getting Away

Eat and drink One of Montevideo’s attractions is its many photogenic bars and cafés, including good time spot Bar Fun Fun (Soriano 922, 00 598 2904 4859, www.barfunfun.com), a historical tango bar dating back to 1895. For the most atmospheric lunch in town, head to the beautiful Mercado del Puerto and grab a ringside seat at one of its many parrillas – try a pamplona de pollo (stuffed chicken breast). One of the town’s best restaurants Tandory (Libertad 2851, 00 598 2709 6616, www.

tandory.com.uy) is ideal for an elegant dinner, while chic but cheerful joint Estrecho (Sarandí 460, 00 598 2915 6107) does an excellent weekday lunch.

Eat and drink For a simple, tasty menu and personalised service, don’t miss quirky La Salmandra Pulpería (Avenida Bustillo 5818, 294 444 1568). At the lovely Butterfly (Hua Huan 7831, 294 446 1441, www.butterflypatagonia. com.ar), local ingredients are transformed into an exquisite seven-course tasting menu. Reservation is essential at both restaurants. To sample some of the region’s craft beer, head to Cervecería Manush (Neumeyer 20, 294 442 8905, www. cervezamanush.com.ar), which also has a range of food served in portions ideal for sharing.


Photograph: Ezequiel Poccard

Useful information


Sticking around




Transport and Subte map



Bus 37, 60, 102. Open 8.45am-5.30pm Mon-Thu; 8.45am-2pm Fri. Canadian Embassy Tagle 2828, entre Avenida Figueroa Alcorta y Juez Tedin, Recoleta (4808 1000/www.argentina.gc.ca). Bus 67, 102. Open 8.30am-12.30pm, 1.305.30pm Mon-Thu; 8.30am-2pm Fri.


Irish Embassy 6th floor, Avenida del Libertador 1068, entre Ayacucho y Avenida Callao, Recoleta (5787 0801/www. embassyofireland.org.ar). Bus 17, 60, 61, 62, 92. Open 9am-1pm Mon-Fri. New Zealand Embassy 5th floor, Carlos Pellegrini 1427, entre Arroyo y Posadas, Retiro (5070 0700/ www.nzembassy.com/argentina). Bus 10, 17, 59, 60, 92. Open 10am-noon Mon-Fri. For NZ citizens only: 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri.

Tourist and travel information

The Obelisco commemorates the 400th anniversary of the founding of Buenos Aires

Useful information Emergencies


public Hospital de Clínicas (Avenida Córdoba 2351, 5950 8000, www.hospitaldeclinicas.uba.ar). For an English-speaking gynaecologist, contact Dr Claudia María Battista (3rd floor, Arenales 1611, Recoleta, 4811 6127). For back and neck woes, see Dr Craig Ingram Penny at Family Chiropractic in Belgrano (Office A, 5th floor, Gorostiaga 1664, 4779 9121, www.familychiropractic.com.ar). If your feet require the services of a podiatrist, try Point Centro de Podología y Ortopedia (Perón 4191, 4866 5885, www.centrodepodologia. com.ar) in Almagro.

The standard of medical care in Buenos Aires is generally high. For emergency or general medical needs, try Recoleta’s Hospital Alemán (Pueyrredón 1640, 4827 7000, www. hospitalaleman.org.ar), which has English-speaking doctors and is one of the cleanest and best hospitals in the city. There are also English-speaking doctors at the Hospital Británico (Perdriel 74, 4309 6400, www. hospitalbritanico.org.ar) in Constitución, and at Almagro’s Hospital Italiano (Juan Domingo Perón 4190, 4959 0200, www. hospitalitaliano.org.ar). Walk-in appointments at these private hospitals start from AR$280. Hospital Argerich (Pi y Margall 750, 4121 0700, www.hospitalargerich.org. ar) in La Boca, is one of the city’s better public hospitals; or make for the immense

If you need emergency dental treatment, you can call the Servicio de Urgencias Odontológicas at 4805 6407, or for the nearest public hospital, visit www.buenosaires.gov. ar/areas/salud and click on ‘odontología’. Drs Gustavo & Marisol Telo (Office B, 2nd floor, Laprida 1621, 4828 0821, mobile 15 5400 5999, www.dental-argentina.com) offer emergency care, as well as cosmetic treatments and implants. Dental Square (Office F, 1st floor, Cabello 3181, 5778 0256, www. dentalsquareargentina.com) has a similar range of services, and Drs Leonardo Pelcman & Martín Pelcman (Office A, 10th floor, Avenida Santa Fe 3444, 4821 9070, www.drspelcman.com.ar) are also recommendable dentists. English is spoken at all three clinics.

Fire 100; also 4383 2222 or 4304 2222. Medical emergencies 107 to call an ambulance. Police 911; 101; also 4370 5911.



168 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015


Pregunta SIDA runs a free HIV/AIDS helpline (0800 333 3444, open 6ammidnight Mon-Fri; 9am-9pm Sat, Sun) with advice on general sexual health issues and where to go for treatment. Fundación Huésped (Ángel Peluffo 3932, 0800 222 4837, www.huesped.org. ar) runs a helpline and conducts research into AIDS. Contraception can be purchased at pharmacies without a prescription, or acquired free of charge at public hospitals and health centres. The national sexual health programme also has a free helpline (0800 222 3444, www.msal.gov.ar/saludsexual).

Embassies and consulates American Embassy Avenida Colombia 4300, entre Sarmiento y Avenida Cerviño, Palermo (5777 4533/argentina.usembassy.gov). Subte D, Plaza Italia/bus 37, 67, 130, 152, 160. Open 8.30am-noon Mon-Fri; 2.30-4pm Mon-Thu. Visas by appointment only. Australian Embassy Villanueva 1400, y Zabala, Belgrano (4779 3500/www.argentina.embassy. gov.au). Bus 15, 42, 55, 59. Open 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri. British Embassy Luis Agote 2412, y Guido, Recoleta (4808 2200/ukinargentina.fco.gov.uk).

The English version of the city government’s tourist website is www.buenosaires.gob.ar/en. A free information line is open from 8am to 8pm daily (0800 555 0016). For customised itineraries while in the city, contact BA Cultural Concierge (baculturalconcierge.com), or for tickets, tours and airport transfers, see Landing Pad BA (landingpadba. com). Loli Delger at The Hummingbird Trip (Uriarte 1942, 3227 1111, www.thehummingbirdtrip. com) organises fantastic tours of BA and beyond, as do the friendly folk at travel agency Say Hueque (Thames 2062, 5258 8740, www.sayhueque.com).

Safety tips

Continued economic hardship in Buenos Aires has been linked to a rise in street crime, but with a little common sense and a few basic precautions, visitors should be able to stay out of trouble. Avoid pulling out a wallet stacked with bills, and try not to flash expensive jewellery and cameras. Leave non-essential cards and ID at home, loop a leg through bag straps while in restaurants, keep an eye on belongings on public transport (the Subte in particular) and always use radio taxis (see p172). Although violent crime is rare, bag snatching and slitting, sadly, are not. If you are actually threatened, hand over your goods calmly: BA has a gun problem. Distraction thefts are common, such as where one person sprays a mustard-like substance on you while another ‘kindly’ offers to clean it off – and then clears off with your stuff.

Police stations Tourists can report crimes at the police station in the neighbourhood in which the incident happened, or at the Comisaría del Turista, where

English-speaking staff is on hand to receive reports of crimes 24 hours a day (Avenida Corrientes 436, Microcentro, 0800 999 5000).

Telephones Dialling & codes All Buenos Aires landline numbers consist of eight digits. To call a mobile phone number, add 15 before the eight-digit number. From overseas, dial your country’s international dialling code then 54 11 and the eight-digit number, or for a mobile phone, dial 54 9 11 and the last eight digits. Other useful numbers Directory information 110. International operator 000. Mobile phones The main mobile phone companies in BA are Claro, Movistar and Personal. Pay-as-you-go SIM cards (chips) can be purchased in phone shops and kiosks.



American Express 0810 555 2639. Diners Club 0810 444 2484. MasterCard 4348 7070. Visa 4379 3333.

There are dozens of institutes offering Spanish classes in BA, from outfits like Pensaris (Office 4, 2nd floor, Alsina 495, 5218 7735, www.pensaris.com.ar), which caters more to business clients, to International Training (5th floor, Vuelta de Obligado 1808, 4788 1788, www.ih-buenosaires.com), which has free classes with trainee teachers throughout the year. In Palermo, Ayres de Español (Gurruchaga 1851, 4834 6340, www.ayresdespanol. com.ar) has private as well as small group classes, as do downtown IBL (Office 328, 3rd floor, Galería Güemes, Florida 165, 4331 0033, www.ibl.com. ar) and Ibero Spanish School (Piedras 115, 5984 1518, www. iberospanish.com). Many schools, such as LV Studio (Darregueyra 2394, mobile 15 5855 6472, www.lvstudio web.com), offer varied activities like wine tasting. Expanish (4th floor, 25 de Mayo 457, 5252 3040, www. expanish.com) has some of the best facilities in town. VOS (Marcelo T de Alvear 1459, 4812 1140, www. vosbuenosaires.com) offers conversational classes focused on peppering your Spanish with local slang. The University of Buenos Aires’s Laboratorio de Idiomas (25 de Mayo 221, 4343 5981, www.idiomas. filo.uba.ar) has an excellent Spanishfor-foreigners programme. To organise an intercambio (language exchange) with native speakers, create and post your profile on the popular website Conversation Exchange (www.conversationexchange.com) and sit back as the offers roll in. Or check out Spanglish’s (5505 4113, www. spanglishexchange.com) wildly popular language exchange events that take place a few times a week across town.

Sticking around If, like so many before you, you find you’re just not ready to leave the bifes and the beautiful people behind, the following resources should help get you started in your quest to go from just passing through to permanente.

Apartment rentals Don’t be put off by the initial complications involved in renting in BA: if you find yourself without a garantía (a guarantee from a local who can vouch for you should you run out of cash) and a DNI (national identity card), and are reluctant to tie yourself to a minimum two-year contract, rest assured that there are other options. Short- and long-term rental rates can be negotiated, though you’ll very likely have to pay more than a porteño would. Prices tend to be quoted in dollars, but that doesn’t mean you need to pay in USD. Insist on paying in pesos at a fair exchange rate, and even for short-term rentals, ask for a contract.

To search independently for an apartment or a room in shared accommodation, trawl through the Complicated red tape makes attaining popular local Craigslist (buenosaires. residency status in Argentina tricky, en.craigslist.org), which is in both meaning that plenty of foreigners English and Spanish, the Spanishresort to the common, though frowned language Comparto Depto (www. upon, practice of renewing the 90-day compartodepto.com) or Spare Rooms tourist visa granted on entering the Buenos Aires (3221 1798, www. country by popping across the river to spareroomsba.com). Uruguay. Technically, this is still legal, If you want to rent a furnished flat as long as you’re not working in for anything from a few nights to Argentina. For those who want to stick several months, and would rather go around and make it all above board, through an agency, there are a there are a number of options, number of companies that can including proving a private help. Rates vary greatly, but income (from a foreign rent you can expect them to start or pension, for example), at around US$700 per month. Learn castellano taking a university course, or Agencies generally charge with the Porteño getting a job with an commission and require a Spanish app. employer that will sponsor deposit, and some also offer your visa. There’s plenty of services including transfers, city information to be found through tours, Spanish classes, car rental and the Immigration Authorities (www. even concierges. Note that not all migraciones.gov.ar). Or if all else fails, accept payment by credit card. you can always set your sights on For Rent Argentina (4822 5912, marriage. The fine for overstaying www.4rentargentina.com), ByT your visa is AR$600, which is paid Argentina (4876 5000, www. upon leaving the country. bytargentina.com) and House



in Buenos Aires (4706 1151, www. houseinbuenosaires.com) can arrange lets in fully furnished apartments all over the city, from just the basics to truly palatial digs. My Space BA (4793 3496, www.myspaceba.com) and Oasis BA (4777 3692, www. oasiscollections.com) tend towards the more luxurious end of the scale. The latter also owns the Oasis Clubhouse offering three rooms to rent and use of one of BA’s loveliest pools. BA House (4803 3147, www.bahouse.com.ar) has flats in some of the city’s smarter barrios, as well as in Uruguay’s Punta del Este. Buenos Aires Habitat (4815 8662, www.buenosaireshabitat. com) offers short-term rentals and can also provide property management and advice on purchasing properties. A number of other businesses, such as BAires Apartments (4833 3319, www.bairesapartments.com) have properties for sale as well as for rent. For a full-service apart-hotel in the heart of Palermo Hollywood with a sauna, pool and bilingual staff, try Cimma Suites (Paraguay 5326, 2054 2898, www.cimmasuites.com.ar), or check out our selection of apart-hotels on page 156.

Buying property


Cash-in-hand, contract-free positions are relatively easy to come by in BA. Jobs in the service industry and teaching English are the main options, and adverts regularly feature on sites Craigslist (www.craigslist.org) and Jobs Abroad (jobsgoabroad.com). Zona Jobs (www.zonajobs.com.ar) and CompuTrabajo (www. computrabajo.com.ar) are other sources. Wages are not generous, and you may need to patch together hours at different places to make ends meet. English speakers are often required for telemarketing positions, but if your skills allow you to work for companies abroad, you’ll have the advantage of earning in a currency other than the peso. Remote workers can stave off feelings of isolation by opting to rent desk space at Areatres (5353 0333, www.areatresworkplace.com), a well-equipped, modern work space in Palermo designed for freelancers. If teaching English takes your fancy, you can obtain a teaching qualification at International Training (see left) or Íbero Argentina (6023 8375, www. iberotefl.com).


Some of Buenos Aires’s biggest estate agents are Bullrich (6009 3500, www. ibullrich.com.ar) and Goldstein Propiedades (4865 5445, www. goldsteinpropiedades.com). Giesso (4361 1887, www.giessoprop.com.ar) specialise in San Telmo properties, while Ojo Propiedades (4832 4040, www.ojopropiedades.com) is based in Palermo and also does rentals. Meanwhile, popular website Solo Dueños (www.soloduenos.com.ar) cuts out the middleman, putting potential buyers in touch with property owners directly.

While you might have arrived in BA with the idea of escaping English speakers and working on your Spanish, there’s no harm in knowing where to look when you need some cultural familiarity, a helping hand settling in or advice on where to buy peanut butter. Language exchange groups like Spanglish (see left) are good ways of meeting other English speakers, as are organisations like BA Expats (www.baexpats.org), CouchSurfing (www.couchsurfing. org) and InterNations (www. internations.org/buenosaires), which are popular with locals and foreigners.

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Most banks have ATMs, and machines can also be found inside some petrol stations. They usually charge a fee (around US$6) and will use the official exchange rate, which is likely to differ considerably from the unofficial or blue dollar rate. Note that for most foreign cards the maximum withdrawal is AR$1000 at a time and ATMs may run short of cash at the beginning of the month and indeed, at any other time, so set some aside for emergencies. Opening a bank account is difficult for foreigners without local ID. To receive money from overseas, use Forexcambio (Marcelo T de Alvear 540, 4313 0478, www.forex.com.ar) or Western Union (0800 800 3030, www.westernunion.com.ar). If you have a US bank account you can receive pesos at an exchange rate closer to that of the black market through Xoom (Libertad 1057, Recoleta, www.xoom.com); Europeans can try Azimo (www.azimo.com). However, Argentina is currently tightening its regulations and this may limit your access to these services. To change money, go to an official casa de cambio (currency exchange) such as Metrópolis (5554 5800, www. metropoliscf.com), with locations across the city, including at Florida 334 (5199 0844). Since the government implemented strict conditions on the purchase of foreign currencies, demand for US dollars has skyrocketed on the black market where US$1 can fetch AR$13 and above. Cuevas (caves), which exchange money at the black market rate, are the city’s unofficial bureaux de change and are often disguised as jewellery or souvenir stores; many are dotted around calle Florida in Microcentro.

Language study

Transport By taxi or remise

Taxis in Buenos Aires are black and yellow with a red light in the front window if available. They are reasonably priced and plentiful. Visitors should be wary, though, of being taken for a long ride or being robbed by an unlicensed driver. For this reason, radio taxis or remises (licensed minicabs) are the best bet. Look for the words ‘radio taxi’ and the name and number of the company on back passenger doors. Even better, call a taxi (you will need some Spanish to book a cab by phone, though hotel and restaurant staff will usually be happy to help). Reputable companies include Pídalo (4956 1200) and Radio Taxi Premium (4374 6666). If you have a smartphone, you can reserve a taxi through SaferTaxi (www.safertaxi. com), and the Easy Taxi (4776 3658, www.easytaxi.com.ar) phone app is also helpful in minimising post-club waiting in the cold. The latter provides information on the closest taxi and the time it will take to reach you.Taxi meters start at AR$16.90 (AR$20.28 after 10pm), and since you’re not expected to tip, you should receive change to the nearest AR10¢. Keep an eye out for dishonest drivers, who may switch your pristine bill for a fake, then accuse you of passing it. For trips outside the city, remises are best. They look like private cars and don’t run on meters, so agree on a price before setting out. Try Remises Via (4777 8888) or Remises Recoleta Vip (4983 0544).

By bus


City buses are called colectivos. Fares are AR$3.00, AR$3.25 or AR$3.50 for journeys within the capital when paid with a Sube card, which can be topped up at Subte stations and some kiosks. Pick up a card for AR$20 at locations listed here: www.sube.gob.ar; note that you’ll need to show your passport. Without a Sube card, the fare costs AR$5-$6 and must be paid with coins directly into the machine. To find your way around the city by bus – recommended, as they’re cheap, frequent and reliable – buy a Guía T, a pocket-size bus guide found at most newsstands. Or visit mapa.buenosaires. gob.ar, an excellent resource for planning your trip by public transport or bike. Terminal de Omnibus More than 80 long-distance coach lines operate between Retiro and destinations throughout Argentina and as far away as Peru and Colombia. There are typically two types of service to choose from: semi-cama (half bed) and coche-cama (bed seats), the latter often called ejecutivo. Tickets can be purchased at the bus station; some tickets can be bought through authorised vendors around the city or

online or over the phone. In high season (Dec-Feb, Easter and July), tickets should be bought well in advance. For long-distance bus schedules and to purchase tickets, see www.plataforma10.com. Avenida Antártida Argentina, y Calle 10, Retiro (Passenger information 4310 0700/www.tebasa.com.ar). Subte C, Retiro/bus 6, 23, 93, 130, 152.


Driving in Buenos Aires is a sure-fire way to raise your blood pressure, with high-speed, freestyle driving a favourite sport. In theory, priority is given to cars crossing other streets from the right; in practice, avoid assuming anything whatsoever. To hire a car, you need to be over 21, or 23 in the case of some companies, and with a driver’s licence. Prices start at around AR$690 per day. Major companies will allow you to take Buenos Aires’s underground the car out of the country if train network (the Subte) is you sign a contract in quick and easy to use and front of a public notary, runs from 5am to 10.30pm Use the BA Como which costs around (8am to 10pm Sundays). It Llegar App to work has four lines which branch out routes across the AR$800. You must have at least third-party out from the city centre and city by foot, public insurance (seguro de two that run laterally. A transport, bike or responsabilidad civil), but single journey costs car. it’s sensible to take out AR$4.50 with a Sube card and fully comprehensive. For car AR$5 without, which can be paid hire, contact Avis (www.avis.com. at the ticket booth. Hold on to your ar), Baires Rent A Car (www. belongings – theft is common. bairesrentacar.com.ar) or Hertz (www. milletrentacar.com.ar).

By Subte


By train Trains connecting the northern suburbs with the city centre are more modern – and safer – than the often shockingly badly maintained carriages serving the south. Retiro Trains run north and west from Retiro, which is really three stations in one: Mitre, Belgrano and San Martín. From Mitre, there are trains to Tigre via San Isidro. Fares range from AR$2 to AR$11.50 in cash, or AR$1 to AR$5.80 with a Sube card. Avenida Ramos Mejía 1358, Retiro.

172 Time Out Insiders’ Guide to Buenos Aires 2015

Assisted Buenos Aires is far from being disabled-friendly. Pavements are uneven and wheelchair ramps are few and far between, the Subte is hard to access and few buses go super-bajo (ultra-low). There are, however, some transport companies that can assist. QRV – Transportes Especiales QRV has a number of adapted minibuses for wheelchair users, equipped with microphones and guides. Call for prices (4306 6635/ www.qrvtransportes.com.ar).

By air Ezeiza (Aeropuerto Ministro Pistarini) Most international flights arrive and depart from this airport, except some to and from neighbouring countries (see below). There is no rail link between Ezeiza and downtown BA, but the number 8 bus, which leaves from Avenida de Mayo, will drop you off at the airport. Manuel Tienda León shuttle buses (4315 5115, www. tiendaleon.com.ar) cost AR$130 per person and leave every 30 minutes between 6am and midnight and hourly between midnight and 6am. Depending on where you live, for an extra AR$40, a connecting remis can take you to your door. Allow 50 minutes for travel between the city and airport, and more than an hour at rush hour. For a taxi from the airport, use one from the approved kiosks, which cost around AR$400. For an airport transfer in English, contact Buenos Aires Taxis (mobile 15 4793 3496, www.bataxis.com). Ezeiza, 35km from city centre (5480 2500/www.aa2000.com.ar). Aeroparque Jorge Newbery ‘Aeroparque’, as Jorge Newbery airport is known, is the arrival and departure point for domestic flights, as well as those to and from Uruguay and occasionally Brazil, Chile and Paraguay. It’s located on Costanera Norte and there is a taxi rank at the airport exit. The journey from the city centre to Aeroparque takes about 15 minutes (though it can be longer during rush hour) and costs around AR$100. Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado, y La Pampa, Costanera Norte (5480 6111/www.aa2000.com.ar).

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